HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA 2016, 2017 & 2018 NEW RELEASES EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK
HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
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Aubert de Villaine and Larry Hyde
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
HYDE DE VILLAINE CALIFORNIA 2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES It took time and a lot of persuasion but, finally, common sense prevailed when two great vinous dynasties formed an allegiance with the aim of making great wine together.
Hyde de Villaine (HdV) brings together the Hyde family, represented by renowned Californian viticulturist Larry Hyde and the de Villaines. Pamela and Aubert de Villaine pioneered their own Domaine de Villaine in Bouzeron and of course Aubert is best known for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Vosne-Romanée. Pamela de Villaine is key to the original partnership. She is Larry Hyde’s cousin. Together Aubert and Larry aim to produce wines which have a sense of place, proudly Californian, certainly, but offering elegance rather than muscle, vins gourmands. The balance between fidelity to origin and an unmistakably French feel is so well judged. In common with the best French tradition, there are layers of subtlety and complexity, engaging the brain yet, equally important, they evoke joy, celebrating Carneros en route.
The estate is evolving today with Larry’s son Chris Hyde, working alongside his Dad as Director of Viticulture at Hyde de Villaine. Guillaume Boudet had worked alongside winemaker Stéphane Vivier and took over the reins in 2015, working closely with Larry and Chris Hyde in the field and reporting to Aubert de Villaine on winemaking matters. Having studied winemaking and viticulture in Bordeaux, Guillaume brings another region’s perspective to the team. James Eyer, hugely experienced in the wine and food industry himself, is tasked with overseeing this talented team, as general manager. The future is assured. Corney & Barrow has been fortunate in being exclusive UK agent for Hyde de Villaine since 2010.
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
CARNEROS
HYDE VINEYARDS
Carneros, also known as Los Carneros, bridges the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma counties and as such benefits from the warmth from the north and access to the cooling influences of the misty Pacific Ocean via San Pablo Bay. Carneros has, in fact, a very long viticultural history although, as with most regions, Phylloxera decimated the vineyards here in the late 1900s and prohibition prevented anything but gradual recovery.
The wines in this release are from a near-contiguous series of plots on gently rolling hills, facing southeast. The vineyard spans around 63 hectares (ha) of which Hyde de Villaine owns just under 10 ha. (For context, one hectare is about the size of a rugby pitch.)
After repeal, progress was slow but, by the 1970s, there was growing recognition of a typicity of style and in the 1980s planting accelerated, with many of the big Napa players becoming involved. Carneros rests in the low hills of the Macayamas mountains, the greater part lying in Sonoma, the smaller in Napa. The wines can equally carry Sonoma or Napa AVA * status. Proximity to San Pablo Bay is the dominant factor in the distinctive microclimate, the fogs and coastal breezes, channelled through the Petaluma Gap, providing cooler temperatures. This more temperate environment allows for a prolonged growing season, ideal for full phenolic maturation, intensity and balance. Carneros won AVA status in 1983. *American Viticultural Area – the system by which the US designates viticultural regions.
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The majority, Chardonnay, and Syrah are planted on shallow, loamy soils over ancient alluvial terraces and impenetrable clay. The Merlot and Cabernet vines tend to be planted at the northern end of the vineyard, further away from the bay and the cooling fog it induces, the better to ripen. The soils are deeper here too and the south-east slopes, steeper. The Pinot Noir for Ysabel, comes from a joint venture with Van der Kamp vineyards, planted on Mount Sonoma, above the temperature inversion layer at around 1400 ft – thus above that early morning fog which is beneficial to other vines, preserving freshness, but would prevent photosynthesis in this context. Cooler earlier in the day than the Hyde vineyard, the fruit matures around two weeks later, with a consequently later harvest. The temperate Carneros climate prolongs the growing season, allowing the vines to take advantage of their geological sites, gaining intensity and complexity whilst retaining optimal balance. Rainfall is less than surrounding areas and drainage is helped by ancient creek beds which lie between the topsoil and the clay pan. Enough moisture is retained to avoid irrigation, in all but truly adverse conditions.
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VITICULTURE The vineyards are farmed as naturally as possible to encourage healthy, living soils, avoiding compaction and encouraging a richly diverse microbial ecosystem. Instead of the more standard approach, using pesticides, specific flowers are seeded which attract the natural predators of harmful pests whilst habitats for owls, hawks and wasps are protected as they too provide protection. Similarly, ploughing and compost replace herbicides and fertilisers respectively. This is sustainable agriculture taken very seriously, borne of the families’ keen sense of their responsibilities to past and future generations. The rational for this approach, was rewarded and the resolve strengthened during an unprecedented 5 year drought during which the vines proved their resilience when faced with such pressures. Several clones of each grape variety are planted in order to increase complexity. When establishing the Hyde de Villaine vineyard, Aubert advised Larry to seek out local vines rather than importing directly from France for planting, recognizing that it takes years for a vine to adapt to new surroundings. There are four different selections of Chardonnay and Syrah, three selections of Merlot and one selection of Cabernet Sauvignon.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
WINEMAKING The HdV cellar was built in 2003. In fact “cellar” is rather more romantic than the reality of the highly efficient, fit for purpose workplace – akin to a large garage. The building has been designed to ensure the gentlest possible handling of the fruit, maximising the use of gravity and avoiding, as far as possible, mechanical pumping. This is where the grapes arrive to be rigorously sorted, having already had a sorting in the vineyard. The juice is taken to a variety of casks; stainless steel, concrete egg*, oak vats and oak barrels – marrying individual parcels to the most appropriate vessel. Each barrel or vat’s progress is overseen by the winemaking team, until blending, selecting only the very best wines. In tune with the vineyard and cellar, Guillaume Boudet is able to assess the impact of vintage and be flexible rather than systematic during the élevage. He favours minimal intervention and judicious use of oak – all to ensure that the personality of the vineyard shines through in the finished wines – a philosophy which draws strength from Aubert’s own reputation in this key area.
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The Concrete Egg The HdV team have been testing using the concrete egg since 2005. We see these in many of our producers’ cellars. The shape encourages natural lees stirring through convection during alcoholic fermentation, thereby contributing character and texture. The concrete, in the meantime, slightly porous, allows a small amount of oxygen exchange, as a barrel does, though here there is no flavour impact. In addition, elevated temperatures are absorbed by the concrete. The wine is more focused. Many top estates around the world are returning to concrete for this reason
HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THIS OFFER “What may appear, at first to be a somewhat serendipitous range of wines is, in fact designed to offer wines when they are ready to hit the ground running - a quality choice by the Hyde de Villaine team.” ALISON BUCHANAN Associate Director, Buyer
We are offering seven wines here, three whites and four reds, from three different vintages. This is logical and not as confusing as it sounds, the estate preferring to sell the wines when ready for drinking. The first two reds are from the 2016 vintage. First we have a Bordeaux blend named Belle Cousine, in honour of Pamela de Villaine, Larry Hyde’s cousin and followed by a Syrah Noir, planted in 1989 from vines some of which were originally sourced from Côte-Rôtie (Chapoutier), others (Shiraz) from Australia. This is Californio - the name given to early regional settlers. Then Ysabel Pinot Noir 2017, is tribute to everyone’s relentless pursuit of an HdV Pinot from this renowned, classically cooler Carneros climate. Aubert was not easily persuaded but, thankfully acquiesced. This is from Mount Sonoma, the Van der Kamp vineyard, 16 to 17 year old vines grown on loam and volcanic tuff. New to us last year was a Pinot Noir from the Hyde Vineyard itself, Ygnacia 2017 a southerly-exposed site on
the eastern edge of Carneros. The vines are 17 to 18 years old and the soil is Hyde soil, clay-loam over clay pan. In white, we have the renamed Le Début Chardonnay 2018, replacing De la Guerra, a wine which we loved from the outset, with its distinctive, pure style. When Chardonnay is produced by a Frenchman it is hard not to draw some comparisons with other regions and here, supported by blind tastings, we find a clear Chablis-esque style. We have divided loyalties here, loving the wines but recognising that quantities are logically in decline as the source vineyards get older and therefore meet the exacting standards required for HdV Chardonnay. The latter results from a more rigorous selection of older vines (25 years and over). HdV Chardonnay benefits from longer ageing and a little more oak influence. We are offering the 2017 vintage with this release. We are delighted to present for the second time, Commandante Chardonnay 2018. This comes from one specific parcel, “Old Wente” within the Hyde estate, planted in 1979.
ALISON BUCHANAN September 2020
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THE 2016 VINTAGE “2016 is a bright and energetic vintage...(with) the hallmark minerality of the Hyde vineyard” GUILLAUME BAUDET Winemaker
After the 2015 growing season, the vines were happy to have well-earned rest and recuperation with a rather cold and wet winter. Bud-break was observed mid-March, followed by a warm and dry spring which made for healthy vines which flowered well. Early in August, heavy fog slowed down maturation – a good thing – allowing steady phenolic development without impacting on freshness and natural acidity – a hallmark Hyde de Villaine vintage, in its effortless balance.
Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
HDV BELLE COUSINE 2016 Carneros
2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
HDV “CALIFORNIO” SYRAH 2016 Carneros
Belle Cousine, named after Larry Hyde’s cousin Pamela de Villaine, is a Bordeaux blend comprising 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2016. It is made from 2.4 hectares of vines with an age range between 15 to 31 years. Following fermentation, this spent around five months resting before blending. It was then aged for 22 months in 20% new French oak, followed by further maturation in bottle. It has been neither fined nor filtered. The wine was bottled on 26th July 2018. 666 cases of 12 bottles were produced in 2016. “Supply structured tannins pirouette with the acidity, leading towards an extended and robust finish” Guillaume Boudet Winemaker
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TASTING NOTE Jet-shot plum-ruby, silk-textured, this has a very engaging nose, rich in warm, spiced fruit, cassis, blackcurrant leaf and hints of menthol. The palate is sensual, silken and beautifully ripe, harmonious with well-integrated, fine tannins and attractive complexity, fruit layered with mocha and all underscored with fine minerals – wonderfully fresh and upbeat whilst retaining an air of nobility – very fine Corney & Barrow Score 17.75 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2032+ £790/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
Californio is not a spelling mistake but the name given to early California settlers, of Spanish descendancy, who ventured to the Wild West. The European heritage of Hyde de Villaine seems to have been the inspiration here and indeed, the aspiration is to produce a Syrah which is true to place whilst exemplifying European elegance. Californio is made from a tiny 0.8 hectares of southsoutheast facing vines aged 16 to 22 years. The 2016 was harvested on 23rd September and bottled on 21st March 2018. The different lots were aged separately for around five months before blending, and the wine was aged for 18 months in 20% new French oak, followed by bottle maturation. It was neither fined nor filtered. 465 cases of 12 bottles were produced in 2016. “A wine of precision and restrained power” Guillaume Boudet Winemaker
TASTING NOTE Year on year, on first tasting, this has an ability to make the taster smile. It has such beguiling charm and intrigues by combining elements of the familiar with something absolutely unique in style. Intensely coloured, it immediately attracts. The nose then combines blueberry, cherry and red fruits – with flashes of citrus – bright and alluring. Perhaps less of the darker cedar notes this year. The palate continues with weightless energy, very much at the red fruit end of the spectrum, all dancing very daintily until, mid-palate, a tap on the shoulder reminds us that this also has gravitas, a firm, well-integrated structure which will go well with food when young but will age with grace. Corney & Barrow Score 18 to 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030+ £790/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THE 2017 VINTAGE “The 2017 vintage will always be remembered.” GUILLAUME BAUDET Winemaker
When writing this offer each year, I often wonder at our accepted perception of sunny California when most of our vintage notes start with wet and usually involve fog, sounding rather more like my native Scotland. The quality of the finished wine in 2017 - impeccable in its definition and precision – belies the challenges which beset it during the growing season. I think that the one quote from Guillaume Boudet, is rather sardonic “The 2017 vintage will always be remembered.” In 2017, once again, winter was wet and cold, giving the vines some welcome respite. Bud-break was in March in rather mixed conditions, some days warm, some cool and with really cold nights and sporadic rain during early flowering led to uneven fruit set. The weather was then set fair, warm and dry through August. So far so good but there were then two heat spikes in early September, sufficiently hot to close the vines down. Later in the month the growth cycle resumed, giving a final spurt towards ripeness allied to freshness – balanced. Harvest started the third week of August and was concluded by the first week of October It must be recorded that everything was in, healthy and ripe with spirits running high, just before the final dramatic, tragic dénouement of 2017, traumatic, deadly wild fires. Indeed, 2017 will always be remembered. The astounding surprise is the quality of wine to have emerged. Returning to an upbeat note, the wines were not tainted by the air quality during the fires – often a concern.
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
HDV ‘YSABEL’ PINOT NOIR 2017
HDV ‘YGNACIA’ PINOT NOIR 2017
It took some time and a lot of attempts to persuade Aubert de Villaine and Larry Hyde to produce a Pinot Noir here. Their adamant refusal was so frustrating as it is ideal terroir, with its temperate climate. Now we have, in Ysabel, tiny quantities from a mere 1.2 hectares of southeast facing 17 to 18 year old vines. This Van der Kamp vineyard sits at 1400 feet on loam and volcanic tuff soil. Harvest took place on the 4th September and the wine was bottled, after 18 months in barrels, 20% new on March 21st 2018. The wine is neither filtered nor fined.
Ygnacia is just 0 7 hectares of 7 year old vines within the Hyde vineyard, facing south. The soil is clay loam over dense clay pan. Harvest was 28th August. The wine is matured for 17 months in 15% new oak before being bottled, having been neither fined nor filtered.
Only 147 cases of 12 bottles were produced in 2017.
Winemaker
Sonoma Mountains
“Elegant yet firm tannins, a true reflection of this mountain vineyard, provide structure and ageability. Patience will be rewarded” Guillaume Boudet Winemaker
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TASTING NOTE Deep ruby-garnet, this has a very gently-fruited nose, rounded and soft berries, no hard edges, perfumed with dried flowers . the palate, mirroring the aromatic character of the nose is fresh, fragrant – rich in violet and rose whilst still packing a punch in terms of a vivid, energetic structure. Positively embryonic, this nonetheless reveals its potential in its layered complexity, warmth, length and structure – lovely wine. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ to 18 Recommended drinking from 2020 - 2026+ £750/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
Carneros
374 cases of 12 bottles were produced in 2017. “Supple tannins and integrated acidity not only allow for approachability, but also promise future age-ability.” Guillaume Boudet TASTING NOTE A rich, limpid ruby, this offers an intense pepper-spiced perfumed nose, berried fruit blended with violet , rose and pink pepper spice The palate is more punchy than suggested by the nose, the tannins ripe and rounded though certainly present, their presence made more prominent due to an assertive mineral streak, adding focus. The fruit is pure and fragrant, a blend of raspberry and blackberry, given an edge due to the mineral element. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2027+ £1,175/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
HDV CHARDONNAY 2017 Carneros
HdV Chardonnay comes from the older blocks of the Hyde vineyard, from vines of between 26 and 38 years of age. The first vintage was 2000. Harvested between August 26th and September 6th, the grapes were whole cluster pressed and the resulting juice settled, racked and then fermented in stainless steel using natural yeasts. The wine was then matured for 14 the palate time spent in barrel will depend on the vintage and how the wine is progressing. There is a further three months in stainless steel pre-bottling, followed by bottle maturation – expensive - yet all-important for the balance of the finished wine. Neither fined nor filtered, the wine was bottled on 13th November 2018. 1561 cases of 12 bottles were produced. From the outset we have always deemed the wine made from younger vines, now named Le Début owes something stylistically to Chablis. This however, with older vine intensity, gives Meursault and Chassagne a run for their money. It is important to note that whilst this is not the point, this being a truly great Californian Chardonnay, HdV Chardonnay is certainly always assumed to be top end Burgundy when decanted or tasted blind. TASTING NOTE Pale, bright gold, this offers the indulgence of a warm pastry shop on the nose, tarte tatin and brioche – although held in check, not overly hedonistic – so much the better for balancing with food. The palate proceeds to lemon shortcake country balancing richness with flashes of citrus which elevate the wine and, in alliance with finehoned minerals gives drive and focus. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5++ to 18 Recommended drinking from 2019 - 2024+ £690/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
THE 2018 VINTAGE “The weather was splendid...summer ideal.” GUILLAUME BAUDET Winemaker
2018 was favoured by a lot or rain in February and a drop in the normal luminosity, delaying the growth cycle somewhat. Both bud break and flowering were later than normal but, although delayed, the weather was splendid so that the fruit set was even and abundant. Summer was ideal in having generous sunshine refreshed by maritime influences and, relatively unusual, no heat spikes. These were lovely conditions, relatively mild in summer, followed by a long, lovely, warm autumn which allowed for gradual maturation of the grapes, intensifying aromatics and adding complexity – a very fine year. Accessible in youth, with supple, ripe tannins, this vintage is more about is more about comeliness than power.
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HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
LE DÉBUT CHARDONNAY 2018 Carneros, Napa Valley
Formerly named de la Guerra. Beware of writing this wine off as playing second to HdV Chardonnay. Invariably, taking quality and price into account, this can attain an equally high score. TASTING NOTE Brilliant gold, this has such a gloriously enticing nose, rich melange of apple compote, honeysuckle and citrus marmalade. Having laboured the young vine element, it has to be said that the wine itself belies any sign of young colt attitude, the fruit is rounded and profoundly ripe, complemented by attractive acidity. Vitality to the fore, this will calm down in bottle – very well made. Corney & Barrow Score 17 to 17.75 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2024+ £495/case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
HDV COMANDANTE CHARDONNAY 2018 Carneros, Napa Valley
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From 39 year old vines, Old Wente is planted on shallow loam over clay hardpan, facing south by southeast. It is a meagre 0.3 hectares in size, so quantities are tiny - just 131 cases for the whole world. It has been singled out as it is the only remaining original planting at Hyde. TASTING NOTE Deep lemon-gold in colour. A whiff of flinty struck match on the nose, white peach and then a little mango and quince, with measured cedary spice. The palate is substantial on the attack, broad-shouldered stone-fruit and textural grip, speaking of the low yields as much as the fine oak handling. Ripe guava and apricot add verve without detracting from the measured precision. The acidity is pitched beautifully, lifting the flavours, giving them air to express themselves. A fine comb-like grip of extract on the finish. The ‘Commander’ deserves its name – a masterful display of Carneros Chardonnay. If only there were more of it… Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2026+ £735/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780
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To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
HYDE DE VILLAINE, CALIFORNIA
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2016, 2017 & 2018 VINTAGES
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