Wine & Rakija

Wine

2016

& Rakija

INTERVIEW

The Best Wine is One You Enjoy!

DEJAN ŽIVKOSKI,

PRESIDENT OF THE SERBIAN SOMMELIER ASSOCIATION (SERSA)

A sommelier is a waiter who knows wine well, but also the selection of food and all other drinks in their restaurant.

They have a broad education, speak foreign languages, are cultured, polite and everything else that befits an excellent staff member who is at the service of the guest

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he Serbian Sommelier Association (SERSA) was founded in 2003, at the beginning of the new wave of Serbian winemaking. SERSA developed side by side with today’s leading Serbian wineries. Today our wineries return from world evaluations with plenty of medals and awards, which was a very rare occurrence just a decade ago.

• You head of the Serbian Sommelier Association – SERSA, which is known as an authority in the segment of Serbian winemaking. How would you describe the current state of the Serbian wine scene?

- I am one of the founders of the Serbian Sommelier Association.

And after holding almost all positions, two years ago I was elected president. My priority was to stabilise the Association financially and bring it as close as possible to the market, which knew little or

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virtually nothing about us. I also made a turnaround in relations with partners of the Association, which resulted in gaining support from the best and highest quality wineries in Serbia, but also rakija brandy producers. The facts that support this initiative is the fact that we received the right from the International Association of Sommeliers to organise this year’s General Assembly and the first competition of Sommeliers of the Balkans in 2018. I would not label us as an authority; it is better to say that we are professionals in our business. The Serbian wine scene is very good to excellent. Our market is open to all wines of the world, with very expensive wines sold, but also cheaper ones. So, we have wines for everyone’s budget and taste.

• How popular a drink is wine in Serbia today and who are the main carriers of the advancement of the wine culture in our country?

- We are recording an increase in all areas of wine production: the surface area of plantations, the number of wineries, new wine-themed establishments, wine lists, a growing army of wine lovers and, last but not least, we have growing interest in the training of sommeliers that we organise. All of this leads to the conclusion that wine is a very popular drink in Serbia. Supporting this statement is also the fact that the General Assembly of the International Association of Sommeliers was held recently in Belgrade, under the organization of the Serbian Sommelier Association. Among the 48 delegations from all over the world, there were also those who have followed the work of Serbian wineries in the last 12 years, as well as progress in the field of the quality and diversity of grape varieties, which certainly contributed to the good impression that they took away from Serbia. the practical value in the upcoming meal. For guests who do not want • Can parallels be drawn between Serbian and world wines, and to try something new I suggest known international varieties and the what needs to change in Serbian winemaking in order for Serbia to local versions of famous blends. All in all, foreign guests are very satisfied, and sometimes surprised, with the quality of Serbian wines. get the place it deserves on the world wine map?

- All of the world’s latest production and aging techniques are also • How much we have matured as a wine market over the last ten present in Serbia. In this segment, we are not behind other regional, years and what are the market advantages of Serbian wine?

European and world producers. One area where we have to try a lot harder, with work and money, is on the local level, i.e. for 25 per cent of wine We are recording an increase in all areas of wine production: to be sold at the wineries themselves the surface area of plantations, the number of wineries, new – “on the doorstep” and the same wine-themed establishments, wine lists, a growing army of wine amount in local restaurants and relovers and, last but not least, we have growing interest in the tail outlets. This is the right direction training of sommeliers that we organise in the development of wine tourism, which, to be honest, does not follow - The Serbian Sommelier Association was founded in 2003, at the the level of development of wineries and the local wine scene. In this very start of a new wave of Serbian winemaking. We grew up side way we can reach the development of small businesses locally and by side with today’s leading Serbian wineries, followed their work, employment. This is also a matter for local government headed by helped one another, and the wine market along with us. Today our the state, in order for everyone to be involved, through the system, wineries return from world evaluations with a bunch of medals and in the development of wine tourism. awards. That is now a daily occurrence, while just ten years ago international awards were an exception and a surprise to all those who • Which five Serbian wines do you usually offer your guests who are have followed the process of the development of winemaking from not from Serbia? the outside, but not for those of us who were there, on the front line.

- At my restaurant “Steak & Wine Bar”, I first offer guests who are not Our advantage in relation to representatives in the neighbourhood is from Serbia our sparkling wine as an aperitif and an excellent introduction to the meal. Tamjanika and Smederevka, among the whites, obviously reflected in very open competition on the market. Examining restaurants’ wine lists shows that we have given a chance to the and Prokupac and Vranac among the reds, are obligatory options in whole world, not just the region. On the other hand, it is very rare for the presenting of Serbian wine. I try, through tasting, to introduce our wines to appear on the tables of our neighbours. Of course, it is them to our indigenous varieties and in that way bring them closer to

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SERBIAN SOMMELIER COMPETITION SPARKLING WINE 2015

completely normal for everyone to root for their team and that is shown by the figures that support the fact that in Serbia local wine is most commonly consumed.

wine and food, and in that way allow your palate and senses of taste and smell to reveal new wine dimensions. If the restaurant has a sommelier, feel free to ask them for a recommendation. And if you have doubts in his choice, then you should request a small amount of wine to sample and only then make a decision. Today it is quite normal for those who until recently led fierce debates about sport to now debate wine with the same fervour.

• Do you consider that the future of Serbia winemaking lies in the cultivation of indigenous wine varieties and is that our chance for better positioning on the world market?

- The future of Serbian wine is primarily in the hands of young • Who actually are sommeliers and how does one become a somwinegrowers and technologists who create our wines. If we are melier in Serbia? already drinking fine wines, what are they preparing for us for just - A sommelier is a waiter who knows wine well, but also the selection five to 10 years from now? Likewise, no less important are soil and climate, but also the note of spite for us to be the best. Indigenous People in Serbia increasingly enjoy sparkling wines, which varieties, yes, but also international varieties. The Serbian Sommelier winemakers follow with new labels. This is supported by the fact Association has an opportunity to that by the end of this year four new domestic sparkling wine labels tour a large number of wineries will appear on the Serbian market throughout the year, with whom we have more than friendly relations, of food and all other drinks in their restaurant. They have a broad and to see from the inside the real picture of the potential of our education, speak foreign languages, are cultured, polite and everywinemaking. What we do not have, and what we need to create thing else that befits an excellent staff member who is at the service at this juncture, is an extremely serious agency for representing of the guest. The Serbian Sommelier Association conducts training Serbian wines in the world, with a view to the examples of Austria, for sommeliers divided into levels 1, 2 and 3. For those who do not Portugal etc. This is the right road for increasing exports. Otherwise, with competition mounting quickly, we risk our cellars being want to engage professionally as sommeliers, we organise courses filled with old stocks of wine. for wine lovers.

• Knowledge of wine is part of the general culture. How do you recognise good wine and how sufficient is it for us to know about wines to feel secure when ordering wine in a restaurant or pairing food and wine?

- Wine that you enjoy is the best in the world! The combination of wine and food that you like is the best pairing that you can imagine. Ancient Rome teaches that there should be no argument about tastes.

It is enough to know ourselves, our tastes, our desires and needs. A dose of courage is also required to try new tastes, new varieties of

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• Is price a measure of the quality of wine?

- No, it is not.

• What are the current trends in winemaking; does Serbia keep pace with global wine trends and, if so, to what extent?

- People in Serbia increasingly enjoy sparkling wines, which winemakers follow with new labels. This is supported by the fact that by the end of this year four new domestic sparkling wine labels will appear on the Serbian market. ■

CORPORATE ZORAN BEKRIĆ, acting CEO at RUBIN

Let The Deeds Speak For Themselves Even after 60 years, Rubin’s Vinjak is recognised for its world-class quality, with hundred different awards, and its new special selection series, which was made to mark the jubilee

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he Tri Morava region is located in central Serbia and covers an area of 286,930ha and nine vineyards, mainly characterised by moderately steep and gentle slopes and the fact that they are generally located at an altitude of 200 to 350 metres above sea-level, which enables the cultivation of top-quality grape varieties.

es three whites and three reds: Cabernet Sauvignon, Prokupac, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat Ottonel. In creating these wines we were led by the idea of providing the market with something that reflects the serious work done in the vineyards and the winery.

• You have been working intensively for many years on the revitalisation and progressive development of our autochthonous Prokupac variety?

- A rule of the winemaking world in developed countries is the correct selection of the assortment and work on choosing autochthonous varieties, so Rubin also turned towards the selection of varieties and the intensive planting of Prokupac and the production of wine from Prokupac. We are expanding our Prokupac plantations every year and adjusting in accordance with the potential of vine grafts. In parallel with that, we are continuing to advance the wine potential of this variety through its clonal selection.

• The Rubin Winery has a tradition dating back more than 60 years. In the last ten years it has invested seriously in the expansion and renewal of vineyards and the introduction of modern technology. How big is the area currently occupied by Rubin’s vineyards?

- As a company, we are exceptionally committed to the quality and growth of the wine business, which is why our main preoccupation over the last decade has been investment in the development of viticulture and the spreading of the wine culture in Serbia. Since 2008 we have acquired and planted over 800 hectares of vineyards, and today we have a total of 1,200 ha of vineyards. We see We are currently developing the Vinjak Special Selection series, the future in providing the raw materials for production from our own vineyards. which will emerge as a result of the culmination of Rubin’s 60 years With continuous growth, Rubin last year of experience in the production of vinjak. This is a blend of distillates achieved annual production of more than that have aged in oak barrels for an unbelievable 30 to 50 years 14 million litres of alcoholic beverages.

• Rubin’s vineyards are located in the Tri Morava winegrowing region. What are the applicable attributes of that region and what are the most common varieties grown in your vineyards?

- In the development of viticulture we are focusing on that part of central and southern Serbia, while our priority is the Tri Morava region, which is the location of our winery and the majority of our vineyards. Rubin mainly cultivates international varieties in its vineyards: Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Rhine Riesling and Italian Riesling. We are working intensively on planting the Prokupac indigenous variety. We have devoted a special aspect to the series of varietal wines that are currently Rubin’s fastest growing brand. The range of these wines compris-

• Vinjak is Rubin’s most popular authentic product, while its consistent quality has ensured the long-term loyalty of customers. What are your plans for Vinjak?

- Rubin Vinjak was created way back in 1957. And already by 1961 it had won its first prize, the Grand Prix in Ljubljana, and since then it has received hundreds of gold medals and championship trophies in international and domestic competitions. Today we are working on the popularisation and promotion of vinjak brands Rubin VSOP and Rubin XO, which have been evaluated by foreign experts as being top world-class products. To be the market leader for 60 years is a huge success, a success which, alongside the quality of Vinjak, must be attributed to its loyal customers, employees and Serbia. ■

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CORPORATE ZVONKO BOGDAN WINERY

Message in a Bottle From Zvonko Bogdan Winery The terroir of the Palić vineyards and a centuries-long tradition, united with state-of-the-art French technology, visionary ideas, passionate dedication, enduring love and the name of a man who proudly carries it all off, are engraved in every bottle of wine from Zvonko Bogdan Winery

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hile steadily advancing towards supreme quality for eight years, the wines from Zvonko Bogdan Winery carry the tale of the vineyards of northern Serbia around the world.

Here, the authentic and acclaimed terroir meets the selected grape varieties that with the best expert experience and state-ofthe-art technology produce the wine that bears the stamp of its region of origin and captures a single-minded aspiration towards supreme quality.

Then the tradition surrenders to development and new achievements. The Winery boasts the latest technology in wine-making, stainless steel tanks and oak barrels. Each tank in which the wine ages is connected to a computer network so that it can be remotely monitored.

There are over 300 barriques made from the best French and American oak in the cellar of Zvonko Bogdan Winery.

The wine tones of the Zvonko Bogdan Winery palette range from the light Pinot Blanc, the aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, the layered Chardonnay, the re-

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freshing Pinot Grigio, to the sophisticated, elegant Rosé and the gold medallists Život teče and Cuvee No.1. The 8 Tamburaša suits any occasion, but for those special ones, there are the two latest arrivals in the Icon line: Icon Campana Albus and Icon Campana Rubimus.

Like any globetrotter conquering new horizons, the wines from Zvonko Bogdan Winery are spreading the tale of their origin and invite anyone they meet on their journey to return the visit.

Anchored in the sea of its own vineyards, built in the Art Nouveau style typical of the traditional architecture of the nearby Subotica and adorned with a spectacular roof, Zvonko Bogdan Winery awaits you with an open door. Like a beacon in the night, it will proudly and impeccably show you the way to the place where the wine is born and raised to the age when it is ready to travel the world.

With the music of the tambura players, in the tranquillity of the Pannonian Plain and its typical farms, the salaši, you can experience in person everything you’ve ever heard about Zvonko Bogdan Winery. ■

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CORPORATE MITAR DEURIĆ, Founder of Winery Deurić

People, Knowhow And Vineyards Deurić is a young winery, but one with many years of knowledge and experience in production, and a philosophy of quality that it utilises maximally and embeds in the cultivation of grapes and wine production

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espite having appeared on the market just two years ago, Winery Deurić is not lagging behind its rivals in terms of quality and philosophy. They chose superior grape varieties, the most advanced equipment, and excellent and expert staff, and are heading with assuredness towards the top of the Serbian wine scene, as testified to by the numerous awards already won.

with them. The result of this approach is visible and measurable in every bottle, in every sip of our wine. We have expanded our range of wines with two blends Avangarda and Enigma, as well as Gewurztraminer, a variety for which Fruška Gora is renowned. Moreover, we have also launched a rosé wine on the market, Urban rose, made using the Pinot noir variety. This year Winery Deurić sent wines to only two evaluations, and we returned from both with gold and silver medals.

• You appeared on the market in 2014, one of the most difficult years for the wine industry. Yet, despite this, your wines were evaluated as technically perfect. Which wines did you use to introduce yourself to the market and which grape varieties are • The magnificent Deurić used to make your wines? complex, apple orchards, a - The year 2014 was a more difficult one, but every winery that modern winery with a capacprioritises quality and has professional personnel did not have a problem with their wines. At Winery Deurić people are the ity of 150,000 litres, a wine main engine of growth. With their commitment, creativity and tasting hall... You have all the hard work they are not only creating a new wine brand, but prerequisites to deal with also forging a path that leads to the top of the Serbian wine wine tourism successfulscene. The fact is that people, knowledge and vineyards are a ly. What are your immediate mirror of every winery. I have not mentioned equipment, beplans in that area?

- The winery is located on the cause in today’s times all those who have the ambition of prosouthern slopes of Fruška ducing top quality wines and being serious market players already have modern and high-quality equipment installed in their wineries.

At the Balkans International Wine Competition in Sofia we won 10 In the first year we presented ourmedals for nine wines, including four golds. The tenth was for label selves with two wines. Talas Beli (White) design. We won four silver medals at the AWC international wine and Talas Crveni (Red). Talas Beli is a blend competition in Vienna of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer, while Talas Crveni is a blend of Pinot Noir and Merlot. Both wines very quickly found their way to Gora, not far from Vrdnik spa. Our vineyards border Fruška Gora National consumers and people who enjoy a glass of fine wine.

Park and one of the largest linden tree reserves in Europe. The aim of wine tourism at Winery Deurić is for us to show people how we produce wine and how much attention we devote to taking care of the vineyard. Each visitor, • This year you have appeared on the market with new labeling. You’ve alwith a glass of wine and delicious specialities, can enjoy the view of Srem, Cer, so received several prestigious awards. What stands behind such success?

Majevica, Avala... all accompanied by a sommelier. ■ - Love for wine and vineyards. We nurture them, often lie down and get up

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CORPORATE MARIJA JOVANOVIĆ ALLAIN, Founder and Director, Delice doo

Timeless Taste of French Culture France has an unparalleled reputation for its food and drink with an undeniably distinctive culture known worldwide

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rench food and drink are accompanied with pride, exclusive ingredients and techniques, a globally renowned culinary tradition and with the variation of special regions that are known for their particular variety.

As the Christmas and New Year holidays approach, let’s remember that we in Belgrade also have an outstanding selection of French food, drink and famous delicacies. The company Delice offers all of these to private and corporate clients.

• Many people tell us that Delice has made Belgrade more wonderful by bringing new tastes, and more like the cities where your range of products originate. How do your customers see this and can we expect more novelties on offer?

- The response to our arrival into Njegoševa 52 was more than amazing. We instantly clicked with local businesses, and our neighbours pay us visits on a regular basis - they are already like our family.

Regarding novelties, all I can say is that we keep our schedule busy! Besides the regular offer we always have special wine collections and delicatessen sweets. Just to give you an idea, we currently have on stock a limited edition of an amazing Argentinian red wine and we will soon be bringing the best French cheeses to our shelves.

• Food and drink are the best way to get to know a foreign culture, bringing the country of origin closer. Is this part of your intention with what you offer?

- That's exactly what I had in mind when Delice was still just a concept in my head: offering a taste of the timeless French culture through its most exquisite wines and recipes. That's what Delice is all about.

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Customers themselves often tell me that when they come into my shop they feel as if they'd just travelled into the heart of France, and that's all I really ever wanted.

• What do your customers ask for most, and what do you recommend?

- That depends a lot on the customer! Often they ask us to arrange a "dreambox" in which we make a unique selection of a variety of our products and arrange them in a large box as a present. Other times they like us to walk them through our wine list and in a purely hedonistic way we choose the wine that best goes with the moment. As for what I like to recommend the most, I have to say that this changes on an almost daily basis. I couldn't choose only one thing because Delice is itself the collection of my all-time favourites. ■

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CORPORATE PREDRAG NIKČEVIĆ, General partner and co-owner

Hand Made Premium Quality Goat Cheese - Our Time Has Yet To Come

It’s a great shame that in our country there is no culture or tradition of consuming goat’s milk and products made from goat's milk, perhaps that’s why the total share of goat’s milk in Serbia is at a negligible level compared to Europe

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Our goat’s milk products are in the higher price range, which is perhaps the y sheer coincidence, and led by health reasons, Mr Predrag Nikčević reason why there are fewer consumers in Serbia for whom that range is accesdecided to invest in a goat farm and dairy. Within the framework of sible, but then we are increasingly recognised as a brand on foreign markets. company Beocapra, the brand KOZARI (Goat Keepers) has been developing successfully for six years and attracting more customers on a Goat whey, which is a by-product in the process of making cheese, is, according to our interlocutor, the company’s best-selling product, and is also recogdaily basis, but the greater concern of the state would be more than welcome, nised by consumers as a product that is excellent for consumption by people in the form of subsidies that would significantly improve production, as is the who have a problem with excess body fat. practice in developed European countries.

Serbia is not really a country that helps ag“We began by first purchasing a milking ricultural producers, while another wall is repherd of 180 Saanen goats from Upper Austria and buying land, but prior to that we resented by chain stores, which means that for read all the relevant literature we could find small producers like us the all kind of costs are and by 2009 we’d rounded off the entire proexceptionally high. There are also expensive analcess with infrastructure. Our initial idea was yses of quality, but also unfair competition, particularly linked to the sale of products without to sell goat’s milk, but when we discovered any kind of evidence of origin or confirmation of that there was only one major purchaser of the health and safety of foodstuffs. In order for goat’s milk and that existing dairies don’t us to overcome these problems, we opted for exgenerally have a goat programme, we opted port, which also had really high costs. However, it for the second stage and created a dairy in Soft-ripened double cream goat cheese in chestnut leaves is slowly paying off – we now export to the mar2010,” says Predrag Nikčević, General partner and co-owner of Beocapra, speaking to CorD. kets of the EU and Russia; we are striving to penetrate the countries of the Middle and Far East, while we are also gradually penetrating the American market.

We also opted for a smaller series and packages of lower weight, in order Markets mature slowly, but as the trend of healthy nutrition is spreading to be competitive on European markets, with a lot of manual work, but in accordance with world standards for premium quality production. Beocapra has across the planet, I think our time has yet to come. ■ introduced ISO 9001:2008, HACCP, the ISO FSSC 22000 standard, a HALAL certificate, as well as all relevant health certificates on food safety. The comIn Serbia, subsidies are seven dinars per litre of milk, pany also possesses permits enabling it to sell its products on the markets of whether cow’s or goat’s, even though cows provide the EU and the Russian Federation, which are possessed by a very small numseven times more milk than goats, which should be ber of dairies in Serbia.

Our products: - Goat Milk - Goat Whey - Goat Yogurt - Semi-hard full fat goat cheese with natural liquid smoke flavour

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- Semi-hard full fat goat cheese in extra virgin olive oil - Soft ripened double cream in oak ash - Soft ripened double cream in oak bark and ash

separated, but subsidies should also be introduced according to home head. Premiums are also much lower than in all of the countries of the region, and are particularly low compared to EU countries.The state could establish a distribution centre for small dairies and assist in export logistics

In the Southern Balkans, between the Danube and the Carpathian Mountains, lie the sprawling Deliblato Sands, a protected refuge for many species of plant and animal life and a genetic resource pool of importance to our entire planet.

The specific micro-environment includes sandy soil, packed with exceptional minerals. Coupled with our commitment to cultivate our vineyards, this ensures great potential for the production of superior quality wines. ĐORĐE Winery produces its wines exclusively from grapes that grow in the family’s vineyard located close to the winery and encompassing an area of 12 hectares. We grow some of the most exquisite varieties of grape including some that are specific to the Southern Banat region and hold a special place in our hearts.

Our aim is to turn the precious potential of the Deliblato Sands into wines of superior quality that will encapsulate the unique character of this region.

The rolling landscape of aeolian sand dunes, crisscrossed by steppe vegetation and an unrivalled coniferous forest, make this place truly unlike any other.

Devojački Bunar is a special natural oasis, easily accessible

by Serbian city dwellers.

In addition to offering wine tasting of our most popular wines, we provide our guests and wine lovers an opportunity to spend the day on our delightful family estate with stunning views of our vineyards and the surrounding countryside.

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CORPORATE HEDONOPOLIS – Festival of Hedonism, 17th and 18th December at Mixer House

The Prettier Side Of Life

Uncover your new favourite destination for enjoyment! We take you to Hedonopolis

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The festival has a charitable character and part of the proceeds will go he Association of Authentic Hedonists (www.aah.rs) is organising th th and 18 December the Festival for Authentic Hedonists, for to the protection and assistance of those who make our lives more beauon 17 tiful every day, and those are our best friends: dogs. So, animal lovers and all lovers of food, travel, chocolate, wine, massages etc. gentlemen hedonists, this is your day!

The festival’s aim is to share experiences with people in order The festival offers a great opportunity for independent and small busito improve their quality of life and concentrate on its prettier side; how to nesses, food and beverage manufacturers, retailers, hoteliers, restaurants, enjoy everything they like and share that experience with at least some galleries, fashion houses, companies and establishments in the service doothers. Enjoyment is in the little things – this is Hedonopolis’s message main, art and design associations, goods importers and exporters, distribHedonopolis has no age limit. We all enjoy. We believe that everyone utors and wholesalers. can and should find themselves and their own five minutes of pleasure in one day. And that should be every day.

The Association of Authentic HeSurprises for all your senses await you at this festival of hedonism, donists – AAH, was founded on 7th Februwhere you will be offered the best flavours of cheese, chocolate, ary 2005 in Belgrade and today brings together more than 5,500 members. The viwine, coffee, drinks and food sion is for all people on the planet, thanks to AAH, to be smiling, positive and enjoyHedonopolis! The Festival that offers the opportunity for everyone to: ing life. The association’s CHO (Chief Hedonist Officer), Dragan Đordjević, ● Familiarise themselves with, sample and purchase products or is the creator and founder of the Festival, and he will be the host of our festival on 17th and 18th December. services they enjoy What and who await you at Hedonopolis? Quite simply, the best in their ● Learn from professionals during presentations and workshops fields! You will have the opportunity to enjoy and develop your Hedonop● Attend educational and entertaining workshops olistic view of the world. The best flavours in cheese, chocolate, coffee, ● Discover ideas and sources of new and innovative products and drinks, food and wine will be presented at various stands. Through workservices shops we will embark on unusual journeys. You will satisfy your senses ● Be Hedonistic, Hedonistic, Hedonistic! through positive energy, scents, tastes and good company.

More about the event will be available soon on www.hedonopolis.rs This will not be a sightseeing fair. This is an experience. This is a deparand via our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/AAHAsocijacijaAut ture from the norm. This is an experience you will remember. Hedonopolis enticnihHedonista ... Follow Us! is a city of magic and the art of enjoyment.

Record the dates in your calendar, because you are awaited by surprises for all the senses. You deserve it! ■ In addition to everything else, there are also gifts for you. This is a total hedonistic experience!

Come along, be a Hedonopolist!

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INTERVIEW IVAN UROŠEVIĆ, Ph.D., President of the Rakija Producers Group of the Belgrade Chamber of Commerce

A Noble Drink With a Long Tradition Although quince, apricot, William's pear and even raspberry rakijas have become a hit in recent years, šljivovica (plum) remains an evergreen

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ccording to documents written in the 5th century, ancient Slavs used to drink mead wine and mead brandy and brought the habit to the Balkans when they settled here in the 7th century. Exactly when rakija production started is not known, but we do know that it was practiced during emperor Dušan’s reign. Under Dušan’s Code (1354) penalties were prescribed for alcohol abuse.

can we tell the difference between a good and a bad one?

- Rakija is produced by fermenting 100% fruit ‒ no sugar is added ‒ and distilling the fermented fruit pomace. A rakija cannot have a more intense aroma than the fruit from which it was produced. This is because we constantly lose aromatic compounds during fermentation and distillation.

The same goes for intensity of taste. In bars and restaurants alcoholic beverages with various aromas are often sold as rakija. This is effectively cheating, because customers have paid for a product they don’t get. The price is also important. On average, you need 10 to 15 kilos of fruit, depending on which fruit is used, to produce a litre of rakija. So, for example, the average price of quince is 45 dinars/kg, you need 15 kilos of quince for 1 litre of rakija, which means that the raw material alone costs over 650 dinars, not counting other production costs and the producer’s profit.

• We in Serbia believe that rakija cures many diseases and that it’s beneficial to our health. A shot of rakija before breakfast is recommended to improve blood circulation. Are the medicinal benefits of rakija old wives’ tales, or the real deal?

- Rakija has been used in Serbia in diets, as a medicine and for pleasure.

There is scientific proof that alcohol in moderation causes blood vessel dilation, which improves circulation and benefits the whole body. When herb rakiUnfortunately, we in Serbia drink brandies of very poor quality. This is jas are consumed, beneficial chemical due to inadequate education and the indifference of brandy producers. compounds contained in the herbs can be It is sad that with all the available knowledge and university level ingested.

education in this type of production, our private producers are still slaves to traditionally bad habits and do not use science

• What are the trends in rakija production and marketing in Serbia? Where does the future of Serbian rakija lie?

- There’s been an expansion in the production of fruit brandies, such as apricot, William's pear and quince rakijas in the past fifteen years, and lately of raspberry rakija. However, šljivovica, plum rakija, is an evergreen, an authentic beverage of Serbia as a rakija-producing country. With the emergence of new plum sorts, the range of plum rakijas has also become wider.

• Which parameters are used to determine the quality of a rakija? How

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• To what extent can a good Serbian rakija compete with French cognac or Scotch whisky? Can they even be compared?

- Plum rakijas produced from brandy plum cultivars, such as our native požegača, crvena ranka or trnošljiva, ripened and kept in appropriate oak barrels, are neckand-neck with French cognac or calvados. Whisky is a different category of beverage. It’s produced from grains, the raw material is different and simpler. After five years of ageing in an oak barrel, a complex of aromatic compounds formed in šljivovica gives the beverage a new note, which we refer to as ‘bouquet’. Šljivovica

can be left to age for over 25 years, and if you tasted that drink you wouldn’t know which is better: the cognac or the šljivovica.

• Rakija in Serbia is produced in rural households and by big companies.

Each region has its own tradition and characteristic rakija. How can we consolidate production and marketing to improve rakija's position on the market?

- Each rural household in Serbia has its own type of rakija, and everybody thinks that theirs is the best. The beauty lies in the fact that every region in Serbia has a specific microclimate which directly influences the fruit quality and consequently the quality of the rakija. It is important to know when and what to do. So, only ripe fruit of good quality should be used, with no leaves, twigs or stones. In other words, what you wouldn’t put in your mouth, you shouldn’t put in the barrel. The hygiene of the fermentation and distillation vessels should be the best possible. It is also important that the distillation start immediately after fermentation, often no later than ten to twenty days after putting the fruit in the barrel, depending on which fruit was used and on the temperature at which it was fermented. Unfortunately, home distillers in Serbia ferment the pomace when they have time for it, which is often as late as spring. This is wrong, because as soon as the fermentation is over the acetic acid fermentation takes over. It reduces the alcohol content in the pomace and creates organic compounds that spoil the quality of the rakija. When the disintegration of the pomace starts, the conditions for making rotgut are created.

New legislation has made it possible for registered producers and private individuals to cooperate legally with one another, which I believe will

help raise the overall quality of rakija on the Serbian market. Today, all registered producers either have or collaborate with experts in this area and use all available knowhow and modern technologies. This guarantees top quality and continued production. There are many cases of entire villages producing soft rakija as a semi-finished product for registered producers, increasing the production capacity and the potential marketing of the rakija as a finished product.

• Serbia is recognised for its šljivovica – it is one of the brands of our region. What other types of brandy could we export?

- All rakija fruit brandies produced in Serbia are different from similar types of brandy produced abroad. First, the fruit quality that we use in rakija production is exceptional – it’s mostly Class 1 or Class 2. Second, double distillation gives our rakijas a different, recognisable note. We could increase the export of many of our rakijas, but I think I’d prioritise quince and raspberry, as fruit rakija delicacies.

• When, how much and with what food do you recommend taking a shot of rakija?

- I would always recommend colourless fruit rakijas before a meal, as an aperitif, slightly chilled, up to 10°C. Rakijas that have aged in oak barrels, šljivovica, quince, apple and grape rakija, should be taken as a digestive, with cake or coffee, and always at room temperature. Rakija should be consumed in moderation, a shot or two, and what they give as noble alcoholic beverages should be enjoyed. ■

INTERVIEW

Rich Aroma of Natural Rakija Brandy Production is dominated by rakija brandy from quince, followed by plum, apricot, pear, honey, herbs, gentian, William’s Pear, pelinkovac bitters and liqueurs from green walnuts. Besides their distinctive taste and aroma, these products are characterised visually by the design of the specific form of ethno packages that are defined by a wooden stopper, carafe bottle, sealing wax and thread

SAŠA BRANKOVIĆ, OWNER OF DISTILLERY KUMANE

D

istillery Kumane produces fruit brandies in accordance with the Law on Food Safety and the Law on Alcoholic Beverages, with respect for HACCP principles and the principles of Traceability and the identification of products. This production is traditional - classical technology without aroma and colour additives using healthy and ripe examples of different varieties of fruit. After fermentation has been completed, double distillation is carried out in copper stills with dephlegmators, after which the distillates are transported to stainless steel containers for aging and maturing rakija. After a minimum period of two years, diluting is carried out with distilled water to ensure the specific strength of the beverage.

After this stage, the brandy obtained is tested in accredited laboratories prior to being made available for sale.

• It is coming up to a decade since you founded the Distillery Kumane, on the slopes of the Carpathian Mountains in the Braničevo Diostrict. Given that this is a region known for vegetable crops, what made you opt for fruit processing?

- My love for processing fruits intensified during the seven years I worked at the factory Bambi, on its advanced fruit processing plant, where I worked as a technologist. Taking into consideration the fact that an extensive form of rakija brandy production in copper cauldrons, mainly from plums and grapes, has been present in my family for more than a century, my intention was to work with fruit to create something “personal”; something that represents a kind of stamp, the crown of professional work, and which gives additional meaning to the existence of a man. This is also confirmed on the product declaration, which is dominated by a unique red wax seal, a crown and my personal signature.

• What is the manufacturing capacity of Distillery Kumane today and where can your brandies be bought? Which brandy would you recommend?

- Total annual production is around 20,000 litres of fruit brandies, which we have export-

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ed continuously to Romania since 2010, as one of the largest sellers of non-industrial brandies. At Belgrade’s Nikola Tesla Airport we sell our products within the Dufry shops, as well as selling on the Serbian market through the system of Mercator-S, Univerexport and other 260 outlets (hotels, restaurants, shops).

When it comes to recommendations for the type of brandies, the most specific, as far as aroma, flavour and smell are concerned, is the pear brandy (kruškovača), which we create by processing old indigenous varieties of pears from trees that are more than a century old and which are not protected by pesticides. Here we single out the varieties Vodnjika, Lubeničarka, Takiša and Kaluđerka, which we purchase in southern Serbia. The most delicious is apricot brandy (kajsijevača), with an intense and lush varietal aroma that quince brandy (dunjevača) does not have, but which is characterised by a very pleasant taste. Then there is herb brandy (travarica), which contains 13 softened types of medicinal plants purchased from the renowned Josif Pančić Institute and which not only possesses organoleptic qualities, but also health potential.

In conclusion, all of our fruit brandies, poetically speaking, as noted in the declaration, fully captivate and enchant all of our senses, starting from their unobtrusive subtle scent, opalescent transparency in the glass, their beneficial and pleasant taste that lasts and is maintained even after ingestion of the drink, after which it creates a fine pleasant warmth in our body which differs from previous experience and does not leave us feeling indifferent, and which generates an overall feeling of happiness and satisfaction, returning us to early childhood and our carefree play in fragrant rural meadows and orchards. ■

The most specific, as far as aroma, flavour and smell are concerned, is the pear brandy (kruškovača), which we create by processing old indigenous varieties of pears from trees that are more than a century old and which are not protected by pesticides

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Raft Restaurant Žabar Family restaurant with tradition In the month of October we celebrated coming of age as a successful business.

We are located on a beautiful part of the Danube riverbank in Zemun, near the former Hotel Yugoslavia – “Grand Casino”. Žabar Restaurant is one of the most exclusive restaurants in Belgrade, where the most frequent guests are diplomats and business people.

Foreigners also account for a large percentage of the visitors to this restaurant.

A superior atmosphere, a unique wine list with the best international wines, and the most diverse culinary specialities, make it special and widely recognisable.

Make your reservation and indulge in the delights of Žabar Restaurant.

Reservations via phone: 011 319 1226 and 062 232 320

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INTERVIEW

Top Barrique Fruit Rakija From The Radulović Family Cellar

MILAN RADULOVIĆ,

OWNER OF FAMILY CELLAR RADULOVIĆ LTD.

In the quarter of a century of its existence, the Radulović cellar has succeeded in setting high standards in the production of barrique fruit rakija.

“Dukat” Quince Rakija has won numerous awards at fairs, but, more importantly, it has won over the hearts and palates of lovers of quality, strong spirits. For its devotees it also has barrique raspberry rakija, and to mark the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the existence of the cellar, Mr Milan Radulović announces a new product: rakija from wild pear.

T

echnologist and military officer Milan Radulović planted a small orchard of 100 quince trees almost three and a half decades ago in the village of Čitluk near Kruševac. The number of trees has been increased steadily, so that Radulović’s estate now has 2,500 of the highest quality quince trees, from which he produces the highest quality rakija. And it all started almost by accident...

• The Radulović family cellar was built at the end of the last century, when the production of quince rakija was almost completely unknown. What was the motive for launching the production of quince rakija?

- I launched production in 1991, so this year we celebrate 25 years, which is a great success for a small, family business, where working with me now are my daughters Ivana, a Master of Technology, and Jovana, a Master of Agro-Economics.

I had a quince plantation of 100 trees which I planted in 1982. In the meantime, I moved to Belgrade, and in 1991 the quince harvest was extraordinary. I picked 13 tonnes from 100 trees. I inquired as to what the bulk purchase price was at “Vino Župa”, which produced high-quality quince juice, but it was bargain cheap.

Coincidentally, in daily newspaper

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“Politika” I read a small article saying that quince rakija is great. As a technologist, I knew the technology for the production of rakija very well. I decided to launch experimental production of quince rakija. In the neighbourhood they were amazed, because nobody had even heard that rakija could be produced from quince.

I was lucky and in that first year I produced 600 to 700 litres of highquality rakija. That was my impetus. At that time, quince rakija was produced only by “Vino Župa” and one producer from Tavankut.

The following year, I began to buy up quince, and from year to year the rakija has become increasingly better. Under the influence of Calvados (French apple brandy), I embarked on an experiment to see how the quince rakija would react to wood, to produce in that way. After six months, I noticed that its quality had improved compared to young rakija. I produced rakija from 1991 to 2000, but it did not sell it, in order that I could unify the quality and create a reserve. In the meantime, I worked on the selection of bottles, designing labels and other supporting jobs.

• How did the market react to “Dukat” quince rakija?

- “Dukat” rakija is a protected brand at the Intellectual Property Office. When we ap-

peared on the market in 2001, both me and the product were anonymous.

The previous year I received a championship medal in competition among 13 manufacturers of quince rakija at the Novi Sad Fair. That provided additional motivation for me to keep working.

For four consecutive years I was the champion of the international Novi Sad Fair, which has only ever been managed by Rubin’s “Vinjak 5”. Th quality was proven there, but the best test was entering the market. “Dukat” quince brandy began to be sold modestly, but the owners and managers of the best restaurants and raft bars in Belgrade recognised the quality and began to order it. One should bear in mind that “Dukat” is an expensive product, but it quickly found its consumers. With serious work, by 2003 my quince rakija had already become a brand in Belgrade.

• What kinds of rakija do you produce and what makes them unique?

- As a young man, my father is from Toplica, from Radan Mountain, I tried wild pear rakija, which has a centurylong tradition in that area. I liked it and it stayed in my memory, such that I often considered what it would be like to launch production.

Finally, six years ago, I started producing rakija from wild pears and I got a great product. This is also barrique barrel rakija, as it showed that the wood enriches.

I didn’t want to release it on the market until I secured sufficient quantities.

In less than a month from now, on the occasion of 25 years since the launch of production at the Radulović cellar, I will offer the market some 2,000 litres of wild pear rakija. Only restaurants and hotels that already buy our quince brandy will have the opportunity to buy it.

The difference between William’s pear rakija and wild pear rakija is huge.

This rakija leaves a stronger impression in the mouth, on the palate. It is more harmonious, fuller, slightly more robust, shaper. It has a mild bitterness, like quince, and is very specific. Comparisons between William’s pear rakija and wild pear rakija are almost impossible, because the former cannot handle barrique barrels.

The wild pear trees I use are harvested at an altitude of 1,000 metres above sea-level, the fruits are gathered in the forest after falling from the trees on their own. The leaf and fruit of wild pear are very healthy, because they increase the immunity and reduce sugar levels.

What is interesting is that other manufacturers carry out “aging” in a barrel made of one type of wood. I use barrels made of two kinds of wood and then I carry out blending to certain degrees. I think the wild pear rakija will be fantastically received.

• Where can your rakija be bought?

- The greatest share, almost 90 per cent, is sold in Belgrade, Novi Sad and on Mount Kopaonik. The peak was reached in 2013. I had an offer from “Idea” for “Dukat” to go on the shelves in retail outlets, but I declined that. This is a premium product, and if it had gone onto the shelves there wouldn’t have been enough for regular customers, restaurants and raft bars.

I wanted to produce a few thousand litres per year when I started, but the market was such that I increased production. Now the annual production capacity is up to 15,000 litres, but we don’t insist on that at all costs. Quality is very important to us.

• Since the year 2000, the Radulović cellar has also been producing raspberry rakija and maturing it in barrique barrels.

What challenges did you meet when storing raspberry rakija in barriques?

- Barrique raspberry has been made for 15 years already and is well received by the market, but the problem is that the majority of people in Serbia don’t know that rakija can also be produced from raspberry. Everybody associates raspberry with a liquor. Raspberry rakija sells well, but nevertheless significantly less than quince rakija.

Our raspberries are the highest quality in the world. Hits on the price of raspberries disappoint producers. Raspberry growers could organise themselves and connect with rakija producers. Raspberry rakija is highly valued in Europe. One bottle is sold for as much as 100 euros, and that is a great opportunity for everyone.

• How important is packaging for placing rakija on the market?

- “Dukat” quince rakija has its standard commercial packaging, with which it is supplied to restaurants, but also exclusive packaging for which the bottle was designed by Aca Portnoj of the Serbian glass factory in Paraćin. That design solution is protected. This unique bottle is very interesting and more of them were sold in the beginning. People first buy due to the beautiful shape, the label, but it is important that there is a quality product inside.

The marketing and commercial sides are very important. The new product must reach the eyes and ears of the customer. The first years are especially important, and during that time aggression is a necessity. Later, a good product sells itself. The peak for every product is when demand is higher than supply. ■

www.dunjadukat.rs

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CORPORATE VOĆAR KOPAONIK D.O.O.

Tradition of Quality Lasting More Than a Century Cultivating fruit and processing it into fruit brandy is an old craft that is very commonplace in Serbia. For generations, the skills of making homemade brandy have been refined such that they have a quality that ensures they can even take pride of place on foreign markets

V

oćar Kopaonik is a family business located Voćar Kopaonik is particularly proud of its raspberry brandy; one on the eastern slopes of Kopaonik Mounlitre is made from about 20kg of handpicked raspberries, which are tain, headquartered in Brus, that is engaged distilled in the old way, in copper stills. Tradition and experience are in growing fruit and processing it into fruit a guarantee of quality. The market will also soon be offered rakija brandy. The company owners’ tradition and experience of several generations of distilling rakija brandy brandy with honey and rakija brandy with gentian root from Kopaonik dates back more than a century and is applied at each stage of production. It is important to note that Voćar Voćar Kopaonik pays particular attention to the packaging of its products, Kopaonikćs products are continuously and consistently of a superior quality. thus its offer includes an exclusive wooden box for brandy that is ideal for corThe natural fruit brandies represented in the range of company Voćar porate gifts, and on which a logo or slogan of the client company can Kopaonik are clean, crystal clear and colourless, which contributes to be added. the overall visual appeal of this rakija. The aroma of these fruit brandies Medals and awards received by Voćar Kopaonik for the excepis accentuated, well developed, luxurious and clean, which is typical of tional quality of its products confirm the high quality of these fruit this type of brandy, which creates the impression of a pleasant, pleasing and complex bouquet. brandies. Of the numerous awards that have been won, the most significant were awarded at international fairs in Novi Sad, Belgrade, Voćar Kopaonik possesses ISO and HACCP standards, and in the Leskovac and Brussels. Since 2001, Voćar Kopaonik’s products have analyses of national consumer organisations all products are evaluated as being 100 per cent natural. received 20 gold and 13 silver medals at the aforementioned fairs. ■

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RAKIJA – PRIMORDIALLY OURS

Woven Into Serbian Tradition

In Serbia, rakija is much more than an alcoholic beverage. Rakija is deeply rooted in our tradition, customs, beliefs

O

ne of the first things you should do when getting to know the history and culture of the Serbian people is to taste the Serbian rakija. You shouldn’t be tasting just for the sake of it. To enjoy rakija properly, you should understand it. You should know when and how to drink it. The best rakija is the one you enjoy most!

Rakija has been a reflection of our mentality for centuries. We use it to toast when times are good and to drown our sorrows when times are bad. It's universal because you can drink it anywhere, anytime: in the morning, at noon, in the evening, before or after a meal. Rakija is a real reflection of a household. A good head of the household will open his best bottle for you: the one that's been well hidden and kept for a long time for his favourite guests and special occasions.

REMEDY FOR THE SOUL A belief that rakija has remedial properties is deeply rooted in Serbian tradition. In the past, it was used as the only anaesthetic in surgical procedures. It was used to disinfect wounds, to reduce body temperature. It is also believed that rakija is a remedy for the wounded soul, so they often used it in the past to cheer people up.

The tradition of drinking rakija in Serbian households is as old as rakija itself. It is an unspoken rule that when you are visiting someone you should bring a bottle of the best rakija stashed away in your house, and if you are receiving guests that you should ask them if they fancy a shot of “a homemade one” while they’re still at the door. The epithet “homemade” was attached to rakija in the olden days, when households used to make it for their own consumption and there was no mass production. Even in modern-day Serbia, despite the excellent offer of top-quality brandies in shops, bars and restaurants, rural households still make their own excellent rakijas, which are not marketed but used exclusively for their own needs. Every region has its authentic rakija, made according to a traditional recipe, which captures that volatile aromatic component in the best possible way. We may simply call it love of tradition, countryside, homeland. ŠLJIVOVICA – THE EMPRESS OF SERBIAN RAKIJAS According to an old belief, rakija is “the soul extracted from a plum”. No wonder it used to be kept as the greatest treasure and served only to the dearest guests with Turkish delight and coffee.

A more significant production of šljivovica started in the late 19th century with the decline in wine production due to the mass destruction of vineyards by grape phylloxera.

Plum brandy (šljivovica) is a national Serbian strong alcoholic beverage with a great tradition. Serbia is the third country in the world by the quan-

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tity and quality of produced plum brandy. Of all plums produced in Serbia over 80% are used to make rakija, while the share of šljivovica in the total production of fruit brandies in Serbia is 80%.

Besides the traditionally dominant šljivovica, an increasing number of more aromatic, fruit brandies such as apricot and quince brandies have also become available on the market. Pear brandy is mostly made from Williams pears, while raspberry brandy is a real delicacy for those who like a good drink.

DISTILLATION They say that those who haven’t seen how rakija is “burned”, haven’t lived in Serbia.

“Burning” is a popular term for making rakija using distillation technology.

Distillation is a process of separating and concentrating volatile compounds that give a brandy its authenticity. The fermented fruit is heated in distillation vessels (pots stills) causing specific chemical reactions and producing specific aromas. The variations and combinations of raw materials for distillation (fruit preparation), the way in which fractions are extracted and the duration of distillation make all the difference from one final distillate ‒ rakija ‒ to another.

Final distillates have high alcohol content, usually between 60 and 65 per cent. To make a rakija of desirable strength (40, 43 or 45 vol %) the distillates should be diluted, i.e. the alcohol content should be reduced to the desirable amount.

HOT BRANDY The epithet “hot” comes from the traditional making of rakija that is much stronger than normal, which means that its alcohol content is higher. People used to believe that the hotter the rakija, the better.

However, you should be aware that a higher alcohol content masks the beauty of rakija. Higher alcohol content numbs our senses and prevents us from feeling the natural aroma of rakija.

TASTING A rakija-tasting glass should be filled to 60 % of its total volume (0.5 decilitre), and it should have a longer neck. When a bottle is opened, rakija should sit (in the bottle) at least two to three minutes, and then poured into the tasting glass. Waiting before the first sip, to let the full taste of rakija develop, is also recommended.

When tasting rakija, it is very important to know that its taste and aroma depend a lot on the glass used for tasting. Šljivovica, especially one that has aged in wooden barrels, should be drunk from glasses that are wider at the bottom and narrower at the top, like cognac glasses. Shot glasses with a round bottom and a long narrow neck should be avoided because they make šljivovica taste raw and coarse and they neutralise its bouquet.

The serving temperature depends on the type of brandy. Brandies that haven’t aged, such as apricot brandy, sour cherry brandy, pear brandy, quince brandy and plum brandy are served at 10-14ºC, while those that have aged are served at somewhat higher temperatures. Do not over-chill rakija because low temperatures prevent aromas from coming out.

WHEN TO DRINK RAKIJA? Rakija is drunk in company, on various occasions, usually as an aperitif, to open the appetite, or as a digestive with aromatic cakes. Many types of brandy are now used as a cocktail base.

Despite strong competition from other spirits such as whiskey or cognac, rakija has kept its primary position in the Serbian culture and cuisine. Its alleged remedial properties have not been replaced by any other alcoholic beverage. ■