CorD Magazine No.23

A.S. Babar Hashmi

H.E. Georgi Dimitrov

Rebuilding Lives

At Europe’s Door

Davor Vidiš Consul General of Croatia January 2006

interviews opinions news comments events www.cordmagazine.com

Issue No.23

Little Less Bark, LITTLE MORE BITE

16 CORD CALENDAR 2005's Key Happenings in Serbia, Europe and around the globe Calling general elections depends neither on the voters' disposition, nor even on the respect of Constitution and Law. Rather, it depends primarily on the speed of the courts that are tasked with establishing whether or not a parliamentary majority actually supports the government

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It seems quite certain that the citizens of Montenegro will hold an independence referendum and, provided the majority votes in favour, break away from the union with Serbia. The question is why officials in Belgrade are sidestepping the issue of Serbia's independence?

Radovan Jelašić , National Bank of Serbia Governor

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES

SWALLOWING RISK

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In an interview for CorD, Jelašić explains what managing the monetary policy will look like in Serbia; what the good and bad sides of the adopted budget for 2006 are and if it is possible for inflation to be kept under ten per cent

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WHAT'S IN STORE FOR SERBIA? CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM

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After initial pessimism, German companies have found that Serbia is the right destination for their investments. At least, that's what the first survey conducted in Serbia by the German Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DIHK) shows

www.cordmagazine.com interviews | opinions | news | comments | events January 2006

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CorD | January 2006

H.E. Georgi Dimitrov, Ambassador of Bulgaria in Belgrade

KNOCKING ON EUROPE'S DOOR Director: Ana Novčić Isaković a.novcic@cma.co.yu Editor in Chief: Tanja Jakobi t.jakobi@cma.co.yu Deputy Editor: Mark Pullen m.pullen@cma.co.yu Art Director: Milena Matović m.matovic@cma.co.yu Deputy Art Editor Illustrations: Marija Popović m.popovic@cma.co.yu

If all goes to plan, a year from now, Bulgaria will be announced as the newest member of the EU. But, with a number of key accession criteria yet to be fully met, Bulgaria's accession date is by no means set in stone

Production Manager: Zlatko Popovic, z.popovic@cma.co.yu Photo: Andy Dall, Stanislav Milojković, Jelena Mandić, FoNet, Tanjug and Beta Translators: Miloš Milosavljević, Dejan Zubac, Dušan Jelić, Milica Kuburu-Jovanović, Marija Petrović Subscription: Tanja Bogdanović t.bogdanovic@cma.co.yu

A.S. Babar Hashmi, Charge d'affaires, Embassy of Pakistan, Belgrade

contents

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…ON MY FAITH IN GOD AND REEBOK!

48 Perhaps the proliferation of trainers in Belgrade's high street boutiques speaks volumes about the spirit of contemporary Belgrade. Or perhaps it just tells us that Belgrade's 'yuppies' are unable to compete with an 'underclass' that still makes up much of the Belgrade 'upper-class'

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REBUILDING LIVES, REBUILDING TIES Pakistani businessmen are still finding it hard to establish solid links in Serbia & Montenegro because, without a State Union embassy in Islamabad, any wouldbe traveller to Belgrade from Pakistan has to first travel to China to secure a visa!

A FEAST FOR THE EYES Christmas Baazar

68 SCG'S GROUP OF DEATH

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SERBIA'S LITERARY TREASURES

The oldest and the most valuable Serbian book ever written in the most beautiful handwritten Cyrillic alphabet, Miroslav's Gospel, was added to UNESCO's list of World Remembrance

General Manager: Ivan Novčić i.novcic@cma.co.yu Project Manager: Anica Divac, a.divac@cma.co.yu, DusanZugic, d.zugic@cma.co.yu Sales Manager: Gordan Žakula g.zakula@cma.co.yu Office Manager: Ivana Petković i.petkovic Printing: Politika AD CorD is published by CMA (Consulting & Marketing Agency), Kneginje Zorke 11a, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia & Montenegro.Phone: +(381 11) 30 87 335, 30 87 066, 244 72 70 Facsimile: +(381 11) 2456 564 E-mail: cordeditorial@cma.co.yu ISSN no.: 1451-7833 All rights reserved © CMA 2004/2005

No. 23

CorD | January 2006

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Comment

What a Waste If you somehow managed to miss our front page headline, let's begin by confessing that the song from which it was taken, and the song around which this comment revolves, is a famous little lusty number by King Elvis Presley. Although relations between the state and its citizens don't quite resemble a love affair, it does seem that aggravation is an emotion common to both the song and our society Tanja Jakobi, Editor in Chief, CorD Magazine

ould it be too harsh to say that 2005 was a wasted year? A year that began with a slow, but steady, improvement in relations with The Hague Tribunal including regular and "dignified" extraditions of Serbian indictees - is ending almost as bitterly as it began. Ratko Mladić remains as free as a bird, despite the numerous promises to the contrary made by senior Serbian officials, and we, as ever, remain the hostages of the fugitive General.

W

A little less conversation, a little more action...

Take a look at this issue's Calendar of Key Happenings and you'll be able to note that, this June, U.S. President George W. Bush cancelled the last of the sanctions first imposed against the then Yugoslavia by his father in 1992. With Mladić perhaps still literally in the woods (as actually suggested by Serbian President Tadić), the chances that Serbia could face fresh U.S. sanctions looms large. These sanctions, should they come, won't be too harsh: perhaps a few million dollars of frozen aid.

But they will certainly be an embarrassing slap in the face.

All this aggravation ain't satisfactioning me.

A year that began with the expectation that that the government would draft the Constitution and, ultimately, dismantle itself (one of Koštunica's key pre-elect pledges), is ending without a whiff of a constitution or a scheduled election in sight, regardless of the fact that a mere 15 per cent of the Serbian electorate support the current government.

Indeed, the current Serbian Constitution managed to suddenly came to the government's aid as a convenient excuse for a rigid (at least formally) position on the status of Kosovo.

A year that have started without a clear picture of what Serbia wants to, and can, do for Kosovo-Serbs, ended as a year still without such a strategy. Nevertheless, a strategy, albeit a vague one, has been adopted by the Serbian Parliament. And a team, albeit a team whose members aren't too keen to collaborate, has been officially formed.

A little more bite and a little less bark.

A year that started with rising disagreements in negotiations with the IMF, resulted in a dramatic mid-October clash, which looked like to confirm the failure of the three-year standby arrangement with the Fund. Still, despite all the barking, hours of frantic deliberations finally resulted in the promise that the

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CorD | January 2006

arrangement will be concluded successfully, next February.

However, to use the word 'success' could be somewhat delusional: 2005 is ending with the highest annual inflation figures since the 5th October changes (at least 18%), and there's no good news in sight for 2006. The government already said that a one digit inflation rate, (upon which it based the whole 2006 budget and legislation, which just passed through the parliament few days ago) is more wishful thinking than realism.

Of course, if someone wants to count for the sake of counting, the parliament passed 200 laws and legislative acts, although only a few of them were implemented. We became the champions of global reform, but only because we stated from the very bottom.

In a year in which our neighbours and former countrymen, Croatia and Macedonia, became candidates for the EU accession, SCG finally reached the stage of the Stabilisation and Association Agreement - the very first step on the road to Europe.

A little less fight and a little more spark.

Honestly, it is hard to say whether the parties or their representatives in the parliament fought for any of these goals (to get a modern Constitution, to define a reasonable platform for negotiations regarding the status of Kosovo, to fulfil obligations towards the ICTY and the IMF). If they did, the situation somehow slipped through their fingers. It is more likely, that they were too busy trading their parliamentary mandates, jumping from one party caucus to the other; managing to spend the least amount of time on the parliament's benches for the highest amount of money (always united when they've had to raise their salary); and using their time to become media stars. We haven't seen any real sparks, except if we count the amount of vulgarities they have exchanged.

I'm tired of talking, …start walking.

After a year in which everything that could have been avoided was successfully avoided, 2006 doesn't promise to be equally friendly. The Kosovo negotiations will pick up pace, whether we want that or not, Montenegro is ready for its referendum on independence, no matter whether Serbia wants to think about its own status or not. And the beast of inflation is a monster we know all too well.

Procrastinating was our way of doing things for a long time… it's getting late. •

Politics - Serbia in 2006

Calling general elections depends neither on the voters' disposition, nor even on the respect of Constitution and Law. Rather, it depends primarily on the speed of the courts that are tasked with establishing whether or not a parliamentary majority actually supports the government

ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES Dragan Bujošević; Photo: Stanislav Milojković

the governing coalition to rein in the appetites of individuals or coalition parties therein".

Some analysts and politicians, such as the SocialDemocratic Party's Meho Omerović, have already expressed their opinion that the entire strategy of Serbian PM Koštunica can be reduced to this: if he concludes that the negotiations on Kosmet are going downhill, he will call extraordinary elections. At that moment, the Kosmet issue would in fact be the only election issue. With that manoeuvre, Koštunica would relsy the message that he is the leader of the patriotic bloc; nations, borders and state are European accession is certainly one of the favourite topics of that his key themes. He would try, in Serbian voters. An enormous majority of them support EU acces- that way, to pull the carpet out sion and expect it to produce a complete change in their daily lives, from under the feet of the Radicals by depriving them of the same as they expected from the 5th October uprising their only political topic.

There are two things that don't raise any dilemmas. The first G17 Plus MPs who decided to leave the ruling coalition and were is that the only policy of the Radicals is 'nationhood'. That is why deprived of their seats by their party, in contravention of an earthey supported the governing coalition in the cases of all five dislier legal decision adjudicating that mandates belong to MPs]. puted parliamentary mandates, without which the coalition simIf Lutovac is vague, Dušan Pavlović cautiously says that it is ply wouldn't be a governing one. For that same reason they more credible that the elections will take place in 2007. "By then dodged the Kosmet negotiating team, thus achieving the freedom more will be known on the status of Kosovo and Montenegro". to criticise any solution and to proclaim that they are even bigger The crucial issue, therefore, is what could cause the elecpatriots than Koštunica. The second is that Koštunica cannot tions to be staged: political will; re-distribution of mandates in search new voters in the liberal-democratic bloc, but only among the Serbian Parliament; referendum in Montenegro; Kosmet followers of the Socialists and the Radicals.

[Kosovo and Metohia]... Pavlović gives precedence to Kosovo But will Koštunica play his proverbial ace up the sleeve? and Montenegro. Lutovac, on the other hand, stresses that According to Pavlović, that possibility is a distinct probability "the cause should be the lack of citizens' confidence and a "particularly if no visible steps forward in the negotiations with parliamentary majority that is maintained by force, while the the European Union are produced". On the other hand, Lutovac trigger may be something much more banal, such as re-groupasserts, "Koštunica is doing his best to swallow the bitter ing of the MPs in the second half of the mandate when the Kosovo pill by sharing the responsibility with everybody else, positions are secured for the next elections or the inability of olitical analysts in Serbia are more cautious than politicians and are not prepared to guarantee that elections will or won't take place this year.

Zoran Lutovac, of the Friedrich Ebart Foundation, thinks that elections should have taken place in 2005: "But, obviously, that depends neither on the voters' disposition, nor even on the respect of Constitution and Law. Rather, it depends primarily on the speed of the courts that are tasked with establishing whether or not a parliamentary majority actually supports the government [since it is still unclear who owns the two mandates of the

P

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CorD | January 2006

Politics - Serbia in 2006

because when everybody is responsible, nobody is guilty".

This line of reasoning is supported by the Kosmet Resolution, which obliges the government to hold negotiations, but leaves the decision-making to the parliament. It is obvious that the decisive influence in formulating the text of that resolution was determined by Koštunica himself.

Evidently, the Kosmet problem will be of a critical importance in shaping the political scene of Serbia.

Pondering possible causes of an early election in 2006, the 'control' question is, of course, whether a solution for Kosovo will be found or imposed in 2006. According to Lutovac, "it will become clear in the next year at least in what institutional, legal and political framework that problem will be resolved in the decade to come".

Pavlović, on the other hand, says: "everybody is now expecting 2006 to be a year of change. I don't think that a solution will be imposed".

But how would a solution for Kosovo that is unfavourable to Serbia affect the domestic political scene?

According to Lutovac, "A solution that fails to satisfy some basic Belgrade interests could be a source of permanent instability in the region and an opportunity to impose that topic as a political focus".

According to Pavlović, "in the case of an unfavourable solution for Serbia, Kosovo would become a central election issue, taking precedence over the distribution of shares, corruption, public spending, pensions or European integration. As a central election issue, Kosovo could make a bigger difference in election results than any economic topic. With an unfavourable Kosovo solution, the growth of radicalism, and of the Serbian Radical Party, would be unavoidable".

This last approach is rather popular both among politicians and political analysts. However, Svetlana Logar, of public opinion research agency Strategic Marketing, disagrees entirely with the hypothesis by insisting that citizens are much more reasonable than politicians. Her research has shown that citizens can clearly distinguish between desires (Kosovo integrated into Serbia or having autonomy within Serbia) and the reality (an independent or divided Kosovo). Of course, the majority of the Serbian public wish to see the first two solutions, but it is the same majority that thinks that the other two solutions have better chances of becoming a reality.

Does Koštunica know where Mladić is located and could he, thus, have already arrested him by now? Pavlović responds briefly and clearly with a resounding "Yes".

Srećko Mihajlović, an analyst from the Social Sciences Institute in Belgrade, has come to similar conclusions in his research. But Logar warns that one should be cautious.

According to her, when the media focused attention on Kosmet (the Resolution, negotiating team, new crimes against Serbs, etc.), the number of those thinking that their wishes will be ful-

Serbian MPs hard at work filled (i.e. Kosovo integrated into Serbia or satisfying for autonomy within Serbia) began to rise. That very fact shows how unwelcome it will be to forecast the reaction of Serbian voters upon any of the possible outcomes of Kosmet negotiations.

The effect of that outcome upon voters will be combined, at least, with these three factors: a carrot that the European Union will lure Serbia with; pressure for the failure to extradite Ratko Mladić; the result of the Montenegrin referendum.

Among these, Montenegro's voting will definitely have the lowest impact on Serbian voters. For the majority of them, the issue seems to be an all but concluded story of a lack of further

Montenegro's voting will definitely have the lowest impact on Serbian voters. For the majority of them, the issue seems to be an all but concluded story of a lack of further interest interest. Lutovac says of the Montenegrin referendum: "That issue is far less important in Serbia than in Montenegro, and it doesn't decisively influence the voters' approach to different parties." Pavlović, on the other hand, thinks that the effect of the Montenegrin poll could be similar to that of Kosmet negotiations, primarily in the sense of imposing patriotism as a key election theme and increasing the radicalism. Both analysts believe that the European Union will interfere to a greater extent in the rules of the Montenegrin referendum. Pavlović expresses that idea more precisely: "It is possible that the European Union will take some more concrete measures. For example, it could twist some arms to make the Đukanović government change its mind".

Lutovac and Pavlović both hint, but fall short of openly suggesting, that the European Union will insist on a success percentage of '50 plus one' votes of 50+1% all registered voters, or the result will spell the failure of Đukanović's independence campaign.

Such an outcome would not provoke any change of attitude among Serbian voters. The ruling coalition in Serbia continues to preach of the impossibility of sacrificing anything in Kosmet negotiations in exchange for some concessions on the road CorD | January 2006

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Politics - Serbia in 2006

towards the European Union. Pavlović does not want to give an estimate on how Zoran Lutovac, of the Friedrich Ebart Foundation, thinks far the European Union will go in black- that elections should have taken place in 2005: "But, mailing Serbia during Kosmet negotiations by playing with the speed of its approxi- obviously, that depends on the voters' disposition. It mation to Brussels. However, Lutovac depends primarily on the speed of the courts that are thinks that "the EU has already indicated tasked with establishing whether or not a parliamenthe causal relations between these two processes". European accession is certain- tary majority actually supports the government ly one of the favourite topics of Serbian voters. An enormous majority of them support EU accession doubts about the final outcome: "I don't know if he and expect it to produce a complete change in their daily lives, [Kostunica] can resolve it himself, but he can probably conthe same as they expected from the 5th October uprising. If tribute in resolving it, following the Gotovina model".

If Serbia doesn't find Mladić or at least help in locating him, Serbia's political elite could associate these two facts - the European inclination of voters and the need for realism the country will face a big problem when it is looked upon with towards Kosmet negotiations - it could unburden itself of many scorn both by the U.S. and the EU. "If Mladić remains at large", problems by replacing the dream of blood and territory by a says Lutovac "as time passes, this will have an increasingly decisive influence on their attitudes towards Serbia". fairytale of a Europe without borders.

Once it is clear what can prompt elections and change pubLutovac comments on this possibility in the following way: "politicians often take wishes as a starting point in trying to lic opinion, one should consider what the outcome of such reach realistic solutions. If the citizens understood that, it elections would be. On the basis of the existing public opinion polls, Lutovac thinks that - in addition to the Serbian Radical would become easier to achieve the possible".

Pavlović, however, does not believe that politicians will Party(SRS), Democratic Party (DS), the Force of Serbia associate these two topics "because then they wouldn't have a Movement (PSS), the Democratic Party of Serbia (DSS) and the topic as a basis for accusing their adversaries of treason. And minority parties (Hungarians, Muslims, Albanians) - parliawhen you don't know how to lower public expenditure, mentary seats could also be won by the Socialist Party of Serbia increase economic competitiveness and decrease corruption, (SPS), the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) and G17 Plus. If the five-percent minimum requirement is kept in tact, Pavlović then you accuse others of being the traitors".

Finally, the question arises of to what degree the arrest thinks that only SRS, DS, PSS, DSS and the national minorities' and extradition of Ratko Mladić could alter voter attitudes. parties would manage to enter the parliament.

Both analysts believe that, considering the current political First of all, it should be stressed that Koštunica has not lost any of his popularity because he finally understood that no scene, the most probable successor to the current government problem can be solved in Serbia without co-operation with would be a Tadić, Karić, Koštunica government which, if the Hague Tribunal, regardless of opinions on the Tribunal. absolutely necessary, would be supported by the minorities, as is the case in neighbouring countries.

"Experience shows us that parties Some analysts and politicians, such as the Social- representing minorities are always close to Democratic Party's Meho Omerović, have already power. They are not exclusive in either their expressed their opinion that the entire strategy of programme or ideology", underlines Lutovac.

Nonetheless, both analysts remain Serbian PM Koštunica can be reduced to this: if he slightly reserved about the genuine possiconcludes that the negotiations on Kosmet are going bilities of the formation of a Tadić, Karić, Koštunica government. downhill, he will call extraordinary elections Pavlović thinks that "at this moment, such a government looks certain, particularly if Nevertheless, Pavlović still thinks that the extradition of the formation of such a coalition remains the only alternative to a Mladić and Radovan Karadžić could have the same effect as Radical government. However, the question is what will be the domthe sending of Slobodan Milošević to The Hague had in sum- inating theme of the next elections and what kind of relations will be mer 2001. However, there is a certain difference. If at that time established between these parties in the electoral campaign?"

Lutovac is even more cautious. He views this potential coaliKoštunica was the leader of those opposing Milošević's extradition (as he was), this time Boris Tadić would not garner tion as merely a 'possibility', as opposed to a extra support by opposing the departure of the political and 'probability'."The only combination that is ruled out is a "grand coalition" between the SRS and DS. A combination SRS, military leaders of Bosnian Serbs to the Hague.

But does Koštunica know where Mladić is located and could plus DSS and/or plus PSS and SPS is possible. National minorhe, thus, have already arrested him by now? Pavlović responds ity parties could be a part of all those combinations".

Therefore, when all's said and done, anything remains posbriefly and clearly with a resounding "Yes".

Lutovac is somewhat more cautious, but he also has no sible in Serbia…as usual. •

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CorD Calendar - 2005's Key Happenings JANUARY 1st - Value Added Tax (VAT [PDV]) is formally introduced in Serbia at a general level of 18%. The tax replaces the former tax on turnover. Simultaneously, the law governing rights of authorship comes into effect.

tamination to the remains of the ancient city of Babylon. A team of German scientists has been tasked with saving the city, one of the cradles of civilisation, from destruction.

31st - EU foreign ministers agree to normalise diplomatic relations with Cuba.

The move overturned the 2003 decision prohibiting contact with Cuba's leadership, which had been taken in response to clashes between Havana's authorities and local dissidents.

FEBRUARY

1st - Serbia's civil judiciary assumes the responsibilities of military courts, prosecution services and attorney offices.

The act effectively abolishes the country's military judiciary, ending its 165year existence.

7th - Egyptian scientists take the first digital image of Tutankhamen's face after scanning the 3,000-year-old mummy.

1st - The Slovenian Parliament ratifies the EU Constitution with a parliamentary vote of 79 in favour and four opposed. Slovenia becomes the third EU member, after Lithuania and Hungary, to accept the constitution.

16th - Stjepan Mesić is elected for a second term as the president of Croatia.

20 th - the first cases of the human strain of bird flu, the deadly H5N1 virus, are reported in two provinces of Thailand, prompting the declaration of a state of emergency nationwide. Simultaneously, reports of 6 bird flu-related deaths over the course of three weeks are made public in Vietnam. Back in 2004, 12 Thai citizens died during two Asian waves of bird flu.

20th - U.S. President George Walker Bush officially commences his second term in the White House.

9th - A peace agreement is signed in Nairobi, bringing an end to 21 years of civil war in Sudan. The war resulted in the deaths of an estimated two million people and saw some four million displaced.

20th - long-term Ukrainian opposition leader, Viktor Juščenko, is officially appointed President of Ukriane.

12th - The European Parliament adopts the first EU Constitution by popular majority.

26th - The U.S. Senate confirms the appointment of Condoleezza Rice as U.S. Secretary of State. She becomes the first Afro-American lady to head U.S. foreign policy.

12th - Mahmoud Abbas is proclaimed President of the Palestinian Authority after winning 62.52% of votes at the 9th January elections.

15th - The British Museum releases a damning report accusing Troops from the US-led force in Iraq of causing widespread damage and severe con-

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15th - In Geneva, State Union member states, Serbia and Montenegro, receive permission to apply to join the World Trade Organisation separately. Serbia and Montenegro first lodged their formal requests to be allowed to apply for separate membership of the 148-country WTO in December 2004 18th - a UN report shows that the world's population has increased to 6.5 billion.

7th - The U.S. Government announces plans to earmark €75million of its 2006 budget to help the development of democracy and integration processes in SCG. The U.S. also intends to put aside €72million for similar projects in Kosovo.

8th - The Israel Government and representatives of the Palestinian Authority sign a peace treaty ending four years of hostilities.

8th - Former Greek Foreign Minister, Károlos Papoúlias, is elected president of the country.

9th - Embryologist Dr. Ian Wilmut - leader of the team that cloned the world's first mammal, Dolly the sheep - receives permission to clone human embryos.

20th - The Israel Government ratifies a decision to withdraw from the Gaza Strip, uprooting Jewish settlers in the occupied territory.

27th - the World Health Organisation announces an International Charter against the consumption of tobacco.

According to a WHO report, smoking is the world's second greatest killer.

MARCH 2nd - The German Government announces unemployment figures of 5.2 million - marking the highest unemployment figures in Germany since the Great Depression of the 1930s.

26th - after a two-year freeze in relations, diplomatic ties between Israel and the Palestinian Authority are reestablished.

13th - Swiss banks collectively announce the existence 3,000 accounts dating back to WWII. They announce their intention to return the thousands of dollars deposited to the families of victims of Nazism.

15th - The European Space Agency announces that their Huygens probe has began beaming back data gathered from the surface of Saturn's moon, Titan.

chooses the opportunity to evaluate that the independence of Kosovo would be unacceptable.

11th - Three properties of the Serbian Orthodox Church's Kosovo diocese are nominated for inclusion in the list of UNESCO Protected World Heritage Sites. They are Peć's Patriarchy Minster, Prizren's Church of Bogorodica Ljeviška and the Gračanica Monastery. In 2004, UNESCO added the Visiko Dečani Monastery to the list.

27 th The 60th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz is marked at the site of the notorious Nazi death camp in Poland.

30th - The first post-Saddam Hussein general elections are held in Iraq.

12th - Serbia & Montenegro and Hungary sign a protocol agreement protecting the rights of ethnic minorities.

13th - Serbian President Boris Tadic pays the first visit of a Serbian president to Kosovo for six years. Tadić

3rd - the minority Serbian Government of PM Vojislav Koštunica defies all odds by celebrating the end of its first year in office.

5th - The US Department of State releases a Country Report stating that in Serbia & Montenegro, along the highway known as the "Balkan route," narcotics-trafficking; smuggling of persons, drugs, weapons and pirated goods; money laundering; and other criminal activities continue to occur.

8th - Russian military spokesmen confirm to press that Chechen rebel leader, Aslan Maskhadov, has been killed in a Russian military operation.

CorD Calendar - 2005's Key Happenings 9th - Sarajevo leaders announce the forming of a War Crimes Council within the BiH Court and the BiH Prosecution Service's Special War Crimes Department. The institutions are jointly tasked with processing war crimes cases in accordance with the highest international standards.

12th - The British Parliament approves legislation limiting the right to freedom of those suspected of committing or aiding acts of terrorism

23rd - The Kosovo Parliament elects Bajram Kosumi as the province's new prime minister.

31st - In Brussels, the EU and Serbia sign a preferential textile agreement allowing Serbia to export textile products, originating in the country, to the EU tax free. The agreement is set to take effect on 1st June.

12th - In Washington, the International Commission for the Balkans presents its recommendations for the EU accession of the countries of the Balkan region. As part of the report, the Commission recommends the four-phase granting of Kosovo's independence.

13th - The Croatian Sabor (parliament) confirms an anti-fascism declaration, confirming the country's democratic orientation.

19th - 78-year-old German, Cardinal Joseph Alois Ratzinger, is appointed as the 265th reigning pope, the head of the Roman Catholic Church and sovereign of Vatican City. He was elected in a papal conclave over which he presided in his capacity as dean of the College of Cardinals. The cardinals took less than 24 hours to elect the pontiff.

14th - The Hague-based International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda sentences former senior Rwandan government official, Vincent Rutaganira, to six years imprisonment. The conviction is the 24th verdict brought by the Tribunal.

15th - An attempt is made to assassinate Kosovo President Ibrahim Rugova in Pristina. The bomb, detonated remotely alongside Rugova's car, leaves one civilian injured.

17 - U.S. President Bush selects Deputy Secretary of Defence, Paul Wolfowitz, to be the next president of the World Bank.

17 th - Palestinian extremist groups - including Hamas and Islamic Jihad - declare a complete truce with Israel.

5th - The first official evaluation of the Iraq War shows that 6,000 Iraqi civilians have been killed and 16,000 wounded during the two years since the invasion to oust Saddam Hussein's regime. Despite this official figure, the website of Iraqi academics and peace activists evaluates that between 17,316 and 19,696 Iraqi civilians have lost their lives since the conflict began.

12th - the German Bundestag (parliament) ratifies the EU Constitution with a superior majority.

25th - EU foreign ministers confirm the European Commission's positive evaluation of the Feasibility Study for SCG. 25th - Bulgarian and Romanian leaders sign their respective EU accession agreements in Luxembourg.

27th - After 11 years of planning and construction, the world's biggest passenger airliner ever built, the Airbus A380, successfully completes its first test flight between Toulouse and Blagnac, France.

12th - the Iranian Government announces that it will "most definitely" renew its uranium refining activities.

13th - $10million is raised for the cultural renewal of Kosovo at an international donors' conference in Paris. The money is earmarked for the renovation and upkeep of 48 Serbian Orthodox churches and monasteries, 14 Ottoman monuments and 13 sacred sites of historical importance.

18th - Serbian media mogul Bogoljub Karić's Force of Serbia Movement becomes a parliamentary party following the defection of an MP of Hagueindictee Vojislav Šeselj's Serbian Radical Party.

9th - the Prince of Wales and Camilla Parker Bowles are wed in Windsor. The wedding marks the first civil marriage of a British crown-prince.

19th - The second anniversary of the U.S.-led invasion of Iraq prompts mass protests around the world.

22nd - An International Press Institute report confirms that 78 journalists were killed during 2004.

8th - the 60th anniversary of the liberation of Mauthausen-Gusen concentration complex (containing some 49 Nazi concentration camps) is marked in Austria.

More than 120,000 people, including numerous Serbs and Montenegrins, died in Mauthausen's camps between August 1938 and May 1945.

9th - the 60th anniversary of the global victory against fascism is marked on VE (Victory in Europe) Day. The world's main celebration took place in Moscow.

2nd - Pope John Paul II, pontiff of the Roman Catholic Church, passes away at his Vatican residence after serving a 26-year papacy.

7th - EU Foreign Policy and Security Chief, Javier Solana, joins the leaders of Serbia, Montenegro and the State Union in Belgrade for the signing of an agreement to amend the Constitutional Charter of the Serbia & Montenegro State Union.

19 th - Scientists announce that they have unravelled the genetic coding of the female X chromosome. Scientists have linked the chromosome to more than 300 diseases.

4th - People from across the entire territory of the former Yugoslavia mark the 25th anniversary of the death of the country's life-long president, Josip Broz 'Tito'.

APRIL

14th - The Chinese Government approves a law permitting the use of force to prevent an announcement of the independence of Taiwan.

th

MAY

28th - The Iraqi Parliament confirms the appointment of the country's first democratically-elected government for more than half a century.

20th - News agencies report that South Korean scientists have produced stem cells genetically matched to specific individuals from cloned embryos. According to experts, these cells can develop into any organ and, thus, have a valuable therapeutic use in treating illnesses ranging from cancer to Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease. The UK's stem cell CorD | January 2006

15

CorD Calendar - 2005's Key Happenings research team is headed by Serbian embriologist Dr. Miodrag Popović.

22nd - the 14th EBRD Annual Conference takes place in Belgrade. The event draws some 3,000 world officials and bankers to the Serbian capital. Representatives of the EBRD express their gratitude and compliments to the host city.

6th - British Foreign Secretary, Jack Straw, announces the suspension of plans to stage a referendum on the EU Constitution in the UK. 9th - The U.S. State Department announces that American Secretary of State, Condoleezza Rice, has approved aid to Serbia & Montenegro for 2005.

U.S. aid to the State Union was frozen in January 2005 as a partial sanction against SCG for failing to co-operate with the ICTY. 9th - ICTY judges agree to release, pending trial, former Yugoslav People's Army Chief-of-Staff, Momcilo Perisić.

28th - Serbia receives its EU accession strategy document, which details all necessary requirements to secure eventual EU membership for the country.

29th - The French public vote against acceptance of the EU Constitution in a referendum. The result, which sees 55% of voters say 'no' in a country that is an EU founder, among the largest members and also a traditional 'motor' of the EU, is adjudged to be a major blow to the Union.

JUNE 1st - During Slobodan Milošević's trail in The Hague, ICTY prosecutors screen

6th - ICTY judges agree to release, pending trial, former Kosovo prime minister, Ramush Haradinaj.

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CorD | January 2006

JULY

sion with a minute's silence in a mark of respect for the dead, while Serbian President Boris Tadić attends the Commemoration Service in Srebrenica itself.

11th - More than 250kg of Second World War explosives are found on a building site in the centre of Moscow.

11th - Six finance ministers of the G8 group of nations decide to write-off €40billion dollars of debt owed by the world's poorest countries. All the debts of 18 sub-Saharan African countries are written-off simultaneously by the World Bank, the International Monetary Fund and the African Development Bank.

These 18 countries owed a combined total of $68billion to various financial institutions worldwide.

15th - The Serbia & Montenegro Council of Ministers sharply, belatedly, condemns the crimes committed against Bošnjak prisoners and civilians in Srebrenica in July 1995.

1st - 62% of voters say 'no' to the EU Constitution in the Netherlands' first ever public referendum.

11th - The tenth anniversary of the Srebrenica massacre is marked. The Serbian Parliament starts their ses-

30th - U.S. President George W Bush cancels the last of all the sanctions imposed on Belgrade. Sanctions were first imposed on Belgrade by the U.S. in 1992 by then U.S. President George Bush Sr.

1st - the World Wildlife Fund releases research claiming that global warming will lead to even warmer, drier summers

13th - American pop legend is found innocent after facing a four-month trial on charges of abusing a 13-year-old boy.

footage of the execution-style murders of six men. They claim that the executioners are members of the Scorpions paramilitary unit, and that the victims are Srebrenica residents. The footage is later broadcast by several Belgrade-based television stations, causing a rise in local interest in the issue of '90s war crimes.

29th - SCG State Union parliamentarians adopt a resolution on EU membership and amendments to the Constitutional Charter. The Resolution sees state union elections postponed until the staging of elections in the two member republics, thereby extending the mandates of the Union's leaders and MPs.

18th - Father Sava Janjić, of the Serbian Orthodox Church's Kosovo Patriarchy, expresses his sympathies and apologises to Kosovo-Albanians for all that they have suffered during the conflicts in Kosovo.

20th - World Refugee Day is marked across the globe. According to official statistics, Serbia alone has around 140,000 refugees.

21 st - The European Commission's Parliamentary Assembly adopts a Kosovo resolution calling for both Belgrade and Priština to commence a dialogue.

18th - NATO Scretary General, Jaap de Hoop Scheffer, visits Belgrade to sign an agreement granting NATO forces the right of passage through Serbian and Montenegrin territory. The agreement causes instant controversy and political division in Serbia.

23rd - UNMIK Chief, Soren JessenPetersen, publishes a declaration regarding the commencement of a pilot decentralisation project in Kosovo. in the Mediterranean, crippling the region's lucrative agriculture and tourism industries.

25th - Bishop Jovan Vraniskovski, head of the Serbian Orthodox

4th - Space probe, Deep Impact, becomes the first manmade object to 'land on' a comet. The 370kg probe, which is the size of a domestic washing machine, collides with comet Temple One, causing a crater to be formed on the surface of the Manhattan-sized comet.

6th - London is confirmed as the host city for the 2012 Olympic Games by the International Olympic Committee.

7 th - 55 people are killed and 700 are injured in a series of suicide attacks in London. Three of the suicide bombs explode within 50 seconds of each other on various trains of the London Underground metro system; the fourth suicide bomber attacks a double-decker bus later the same morning. The suicide bombers are later identified as British citizens, all Muslims, who had no record of crime or violence.

Church's Ohrid Archdiocese, begins his 18-month sentence for inciting religious and racial hatred.

International calls are made for his release and the imprisonment endangers political and economic relations between Serbia and Macedonia.

30th - U.S. astronomers in Pasadena, California, announce the existence of a 10th planet of the Solar System. The new planet is situated 15 billion kilometres from Earth, three times further from our sun than Pluto.

CorD Calendar - 2005's Key Happenings 13th - The World Bank ranks Serbia as the world's best reforming country.

AUGUST 1st - The 30th birthday of the Organisation for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE) is marked in Helsinki.

5th - Canadian PM Paul Martin appoints Haitian-born Michaëlle Jean as Canada's first black, female, immigrant Governor General. th

th

6 - The 60 anniversary of the dropping of the atomic bomb on Hiroshima is marked.

12th - NASA launches it Mars research satellite from Cape Canaveral. th

15 - Lekh Valensa, electrician, legendary leader of the Polish Strike Movement in 1980, and former Polish President, announces that he is to leave his Solidarity Party.

15th - World leaders attend the UN threeday Summit in New York on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the creation of the UN. Despite expectations that priority would be given to global poverty, discussions focused on the fight against global terrorism.

30th - Montenegrin Interior Ministry official, Slavoljub Šećkić, is murdered in the middle of the night in Podgorica.

SEPTEMBER

4th - Kosovo President, Ibrahim Rugova, returns to Kosovo after receiving treatment at a U.S. military hospital in Germany. Rugova chooses the opportunity to confirm that he is suffering from terminal lung cancer, which prompts the launching of campaigns for his successor in Priština.

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CorD | Januarz 2006

11th - Negotiations on the SCG State Union's EU Stabilisation and Association Agreement are ceremonially opened.

24th - The skeletons of two 27,000-yearold babies is discovered in northern Austria. Scientists herald it an unprecedented find.

7th - Belgrade hosts the first round of Stabilisation and Association negotiations between officials of the EU and SCG. 9th - The European Commission recommends that FYR Macedonia be granted EU candidacy status.

15th - Following confirmation that inflation hit 18% in Serbia in October, Harald Hirschhofer, Resident IMF Representative in Belgrade, announces that the Serbian Government's programme for tackling inflation has proved a failure.

15th - Ethnic Hungarian minorities in Vojvodina protest in front of Subotica City Hall in a show of dissatisfaction with the Serbian Government's failure to protect their rights.

28th - Serbian PM, Vojislav Koštunica, officially opens Ball Packaging Europe's $75million factory in Zemun, Belgrade.

This investment, by the European subsidiary of the American giant, marks the biggest single foreign investment in Serbia to date.

NOVEMBER

11th - Former Finnish President, Marti Ahtisaari, is named as the UN's main negotiator for Kosovo's final status talks. Ahtisaari immediately announces that the commencement of negotiations will depend on Belgrade and Priština.

24th - Serbia extradites Moroccan terrorist suspect Abdelmajid Bouchar, 22, to Spain, where he is wanted in connection with the Madrid train bombings that killed 191 people. Bouchar was arrested by Serbian border police in June, 2005.

27 th - The U.S. Army release 1,000 prisoners from the Abu Ghraib Prison in Iraq.

29th - Hurricane Katrina kills 372 people in the southern U.S.

8th - An earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter Scale hits north-eastern Pakistan and the Kashmir region, killing tens of thousands and leaving millions homeless. Tremors are felt as far away as Kabul and New Delhi.

17th - the World Day to Overcome Extreme Poverty is marked across the globe. The Serbian Ministry for Work and Social Policy announces that around 20 per cent of the Serbian population are living below the poverty line.

24th - U.S. authorities approve the first transplantation of stem cells into the human brain.

OCTOBER 7th - Speaking before the UN Security Council, UN Secretary General, Kofi Annan, recommends the scheduling of negotiations regarding Kosovo's status.

28th - The deaths of two teenagers spark Riots in the Banlieues area of Paris. The riots would continue for 20 days, affecting all of France's large urban areas. Official figures show that during the course of the riots, 8,973 vehicles are torched, 2,888 people are arrested and 126 police are injured.

17th - Italian Fausto Pocar replaces Judge Theodor Meron as President of the ICTY in The Hague. Australian Kevin Parker is appointed vice-president of the tribunal.

21 st - the Serbian Parliament adopts a resolution authorising the Serbian Government to lead the Kosovo 'final status' negotiation process.

MPs of Serbian President Boris Tadić's Democratic Party and former Kosovo Co-ordination Centre chief Nebojša Čović's Social Democratic Party opt to abstain.

22nd - After two months of post-general election negotiations, the German Bundestag elects Christian Democratic Union leader Angela Merkel as the first female Chancellor of Germany.

24th - On the morning before its scheduled meeting with UN Chief Negotiator for Kosovo, Marti Ahtisaari, the Serbian Government announces the names of the 13 members of the team to negotiate the Kosovo issue. The team is to be led by Serbian PM Vojislav Koštunica, Serbian President Boris Tadić and State Union Foreign Minister Vuk Drašković.

Politics - Montenegrin referendum

WHAT'S IN STORE

FOR SERBIA?

It seems quite certain that the citizens of Montenegro will hold an independence referendum and, provided the majority votes in favour, break away from the union with Serbia to attaining full sovereignty in the eyes of the international community without much opposition from the European Union. The question is why officials in Belgrade are sidestepping the issue of Serbia's independence?

By Vojislava Vignjević; Photo: Stanislav Milojković

n late 2001, the Montenegrin Government and opposition detail worthy of note is that Belgrade has hired Albert Rohan, were within a whisper of reaching a consensus on the staging an expert on international constitutional law, as their advisor, of a referendum on the future status of the republic, and meaning that the Serbian Government will lean on internationBelgrade officials had no objection to the notion. What's more, a al constitutional principles to defend their rights in Kosovo, public survey in Serbia conducted several months later deterdespite Belgrade being confronted on several occasions with mined that 65 per cent of the citizenship wanted an independent the unified EU-US stand that there would be no drawing of parSerbia, prompting the Demo Christian Party of Serbia, led by then allels between the status of Kosovo and the status of Republika Justice Minister of Serbia Vladan Batić, to organise a petition for a Srpska in Bosnia & Herzegovina. motion to have an independence referendum in Serbia as well.

The key recommendations of the Venetian Commission for The European Union intervened by procuring the solution to harmonising Montenegrin with EU laws said that voter turnout form the State Union of Serbia & Montenegro, in order to avoid should be more than half of those eligible to vote in order for encouraging the push for Kosovo independence and rocking the the referendum to be valid, Montenegrin citizens with permaalready heaving Serbian boat after Slobodan Milošević's fall. nent residence in Serbia should not be allowed to vote at the After four years of Serbia's and Montenegro's co-existence referendum and, finally, the government and the opposition in the state union, not only has there been a lack of a functional state, but Kosovo's demands for inde- GSS found the Montenegrin government's proposal for pendence have grown louder and bolder, while the an alliance of independent states totally acceptable, assassination of Prime Minister Zoran Đinđić discouraged the notion that Serbia had finally entered because it agreed with historical links between the two calm political waters. In other words, events unfold- people and their common future in Europe. ed precisely in the direction the EU wanted to avoid.

Montenegro got a green light from the Venetian Commission, an have been encouraged to agree on the percentage of votes in expert body of the Council of Europe, signalling that their referfavour of independence needed to change the status of endum law was in accord with international standards, which Montenegro in the international system of states. These talks means that they can now start preparations for the plebiscite, will be mediated by Brussels. while officials in Belgrade have set up a team for negotiations Srđan Darmanović, member of the Venetian Commission with Priština over Kosovo's future that will be mediated by UN and professor at the Faculty of Law in Podgorica, explained to special envoy Marti Ahtisaari.

CorD that there is no international standard for a required The fact that there are no state union representatives in the majority, only the different practices in countries worldwide. team for negotiations, along with the Serbian Parliament having On appeals by local officials that Montenegrin citizens in previously passed a declaration on Kosovo, indicates that, Serbia should have the right to vote at the referendum in although publicly endorsing the survival and strengthening of Montenegro, Darmanović said the Commission had recomunion, they count on the possibility of becoming the successor mended in 2001 that these citizens should not be allowed to to UN Security Council Resolution 1244 on Kosovo. One more vote and this time around, not only has it reiterated these rec-

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CorD | January 2006

Politics - Montenegrin referendum ommendations, but has also expressed hope that Serbia would strip this part of its citizen body of their voting rights, because people declaring or claiming to be Montenegrin citizens would have to be erased from the electoral register.

"In Montenegro, this would mean amending the electoral register over there as well, and I'm certain that no amount of international pressure could compel the Montenegrin Government and Parliament to change the register, since it was compiled and ratified in co-operation with other international bodies, such as the OSCE, for example", Darmanović said.

Asked to comment on the glee expressed by Serbian Prime Ministerial advisor Aleksandar Simić, following the Commission's recommendations that the "plebiscitary will of the citizens had to be in accord with the Constitution", leading Simic to conclude that the decision to change the status of the republic "has to be corroborated by a two-thirds majority in the Parliament of Montenegro", Darmanović notes: "The Montenegrin Constitutional Court already ruled on that issue in 2002. Based on their ruling, this clause will not pose a problem, because the two-thirds majority is needed for amendments to the Constitution, while changes to national status according to Article Two of the Constitution are commanded by a plebiscitary decision of the citizenship ...Montenegrin law says that plebiscitary outcomes are binding for the parliament."

The law in question was contested before the Constitutional Court in 2002 and remained intact. This is one aspect. From another angle, it's hard to believe that anyone will try to contest in parliament a plebiscitary decision of the entire people, even the opponents of Montenegrin independence. Moreover, if at

officials who advocate an independent Serbian state, but have snubbed their agenda for the sake of their coalition partnership in PM Vojislav Koštunica's government.

On the second anniversary of the Constitutional Charter of the state union, Prime Minister Koštunica said that internal strife in Montenegro had finally been stopped with EU assistance, preventing further disintegration of the country. He said that Serbia did not have one good reason, from a political, economic or security Srđan Darmanović aspect, to opt out of the union with Montenegro. However, this point of view overlooks the environment in which social and economic life goes on in a union made up of the same republic as Milosević's Yugoslavia. Serbia and Montenegro have different currencies, customs and trade systems and, in reality, each has sovereign control over its territory. In Maastricht, the European Union approved the twin-track system of harmonising the two economies with European standards. More confirmation that the EU has recognised and accepted the state of matters was demonstrated by the decision to hold stabiliNataša Mićić: "What is more - and is kept sation and association talks with three teams concurrenthidden from the Serbian public - is the ly - from Belgrade, Podgorica and the state union. referendum in Montenegro would not hamper fact that UN Security Council Resolution theThe signing of the association agreement (planned for 1244, according to which Serbia has lost autumn 2006), because the European Commission the right to exercise authority or even can switch from a twin-track to a parallel track assert its presence in Kosovo, indirectly process in a matter of days.

Even prior to the beginning of official negotiforesees an independence referendum ations with the EU, Serbian and Montenegrin minfor the citizens of Kosovo istries for EU integration led mainly separate talks with their common partner. Why is Belgrade, then, sideleast the strongest opposition party in Montenegro, the Socialist stepping the issue of Serbian independence?

People's Party, and maybe some other pro-Serbian party enter Nataša Mićić, acting leader of the Civic Alliance of Serbia (GSS) into negotiations over the referendum, which in turn takes place and former Speaker of the Serbian Parliament, considers the maton the basis of a compromise in the presence of the EU, then it ter thus: "I believe it is above all a matter of political strategy. As is quite unlikely that they will contest the results. long as there are major open issues in our society, such as those of "I think that European reluctance towards an independent Kosovo and Montenegro, the Government in office has an alibi for Montenegrin state has thawed considerably, that no one is ques- the dire situation Serbia is in. There is always someone to blame for tioning whether the referendum will take place and that no one the violation of human rights, the fact that we have tightened relais even trying to postpone it any more. I also think the tions with our neighbours or for our poor living standard. In these Montenegrin Government and parliamentary majority are deter- new conditions, we are witnessing a continuation of Milošević's mined to see the referendum through by the end of April 2006 policy that always blames others, whilst the government uses these and this resolve has been accepted in European structures. issues to cover up their affairs and incompetence."

If this is correct, I expect the negotiations between political Mićić, a rare political figure willing to speak openly about blocs in Montenegro to last until the end of January or mid- Serbia's attitude towards Kosovo and Montenegro, thinks the February next year, within constitutional deadlines, giving way solution for Kosovo's status and future relations between Serbia to campaigns directed at the electorate during March and and Montenegro cannot be viewed outside the context of April", Darmanović said.

European integration.

The Belgrade Agreement stipulates that both members of "What is certain and cannot be denied is the European perthe loose federal union have the right to organise independence spective of Serbia, Montenegro and Kosovo", she said, commentreferendums, but it seems that only one will exercise this right. ing on the future of the state union. "However, our mutual relaSerbian officials, on the other hand, seem to think Serbia and tions are naturally our own responsibility and here lies the duty Montenegro would be better off in a common state, even those of the current power holders to make a sensible and constructive CorD | January 2006

21

Politics - Montenegrin referendum

approach to the negotiations and arrive at solutions that will satisfy citizens' needs to live in a democratic society, primarily, a society that will respect the rights of individuals and provide a normal and stable environment with acceptable standards of life," Mićić said.

However, according to Mićić it is here that we arrive at a problem, because the ruling coalition and the large quasi-opposition parties have no idea how to achieve these goals and stubbornly defend their positions, thus failing to facilitate progress towards an atmosphere fit for calm and constructive negotiations. "They are supported in their current attitude by the Church, extremist organisations and segments of the secret service and 'independent' intellectuals. These hard-line positions on one hand and the Albanian and Montenegrin emancipatory drives on the other are in total collision", Mićić explained.

"The third and most important factor is that the international community too has taken a view which spells that Montenegro does have the right to self-determination and the status of Kosovo cannot return to what it was prior to 1999," Mićić continues. What is more - and is kept hidden from the Serbian public - is the fact that UN Security Council Resolution 1244, according to which Serbia has lost the right to exercise authority or even assert its presence in Kosovo, indirectly foresees an independence referendum for the citizens of Kosovo.

The former Speaker reiterated the view of her party that Montenegro has the right to hold a referendum without any kind of Serbian involvement in this internal matter of the Montenegrin state. She also underscored that GSS found the Montenegrin gov-

tence in Kosovo. Territories are of less importance, because a policy that puts territorial status in the forefront ultimately leads to population displacement. Let us no forget Krajina and parts of Bosnia.

"I'm afraid that some people in Serbia would really like to resettle the Serbs from Kosovo in Serbia proper. Our 2K plan aims to secure the survival of the Serb population in Kosovo, since only a multi-ethnic Kosovo can become a European Kosovo. And this is also in accordance with the interests of Serbia".

The third major issue facing Serbian authorities is co-operation with the ICTY. Although international criticism of lax co-operation is formally addressed to the state union, the real targets are the authorities in Belgrade. There is no doubt that after Gotovina's apprehension the pressure to find and extradite Mladić will increase markedly. This assertion has already After four years of Serbia's and Montenegro's co-existence in the found proof in the tone of ICTY chief Carla del Ponte's report to state union, not only has there been a lack of a functional state, but prosecutor, the UN Security Council in New York Kosovo's demands for independence have grown louder and bold- on 15th December 2005. er, while the assassination of Prime Minister Zoran Đinđić discour- We must also keep in mind that EU aged the notion that Serbia had finally entered calm political association talks also hinge on whether obligations to the international comwaters. In other words, events unfolded precisely in the direction munity have been met, especially the EU wanted to avoid towards the Tribunal, which in simple terms means that the accused at large ernment's proposal for an alliance of independent states totally will have to be located and extradited to the international court.

Although this relies on the good will and assistance of the acceptable, because it agreed with historical links between the region and the EU on the road to European integration, Serbia cantwo people and their common future in Europe.

Mićić says that the issue of Kosovo has to be viewed from the not move forward in this direction with the practice of meeting the angle of maintaining and improving human rights and the qual- minimum of its external obligations. If Prime Minister Koštunica ity of the life of individuals and, most importantly, to open the thinks that Serbia is the only key-holder to stability or instability in the region, he has made the worst possible judgement. door for the return of Serbian IDPs to Kosovo.

Serbia has no other alternative and it is of greatest importance Micić consoles those who dream of a Serbian military presence in Kosovo by saying that when we become a member of NATO, that the political elite acts responsibly towards the general public which will happen way before we enter the EU, we shall be able to and the problems that need to be dealt with after these three deploy a small contingent in Kosovo under NATO command, by all major issues, Kosovo, Montenegro and the Hague Tribunal, are means. "Our priority is the people, however," Micić says, "their remedied. Hiding behind a state union whose survival is less than lives, rights, cultural and religious heritage and their sustained exis- likely does not help the situation. On the contrary. •

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CorD | January 2006

Interview

SWALLOWING RISK The scheduled referendum in Montenegro and negotiations regarding the status of Kosovo are merely political excuses, as opposed to representing the real reasons why the Serbian Government did not officially request negotiations from the IMF regarding the new arrangement, considers National Bank of Serbia Governor, Radovan Jelašić

By Tanja Jakobi; Photo: Jelena Mandić urrent relations between SCG and the IMF will be drawn to a close at the end of February and, thus, for the first time since the 5th October 2000 changes, SCG's relations with the Fund will be in a state of limbo. During the last talks about the conclusion of the three-year standby arrangement, which started in May 2002, neither the Serbian Prime Minister nor the Government officially requested a new arrangement with the IMF. Formally, Serbia did not request a new arrangement for political reasons: the outcome of the status of the State Union and Kosovo is expected, after which time it will become clear with which entity, or entities, the IMF will sign the agreement.

The intermission, which will last until SCG formally requests a new arrangement with the IMF, will not resemble a return to Milošević's era - when there was nothing more than sporadic contact with the IMF, but for the creators of economic policy and investors this transitional period will be a period of challenges.

"The existence of a programme with the IMF would be a relief for every governor. There is no doubt that 2006 will be a challenge for us, from both the viewpoint of the monetary policy and the viewpoint of inflation", says Governor Jelašić.

It is certain that the National Bank of Serbia (NBS), and probably the Government, will have regular consultations with the IMF, not only because Serbia is indebted to the IMF for one and a half quota (around $900 million), but also because the Government is obliged through a series of laws and decisions (regarding the privatisation of NIS, the payout of outstanding pensions etc.) to implement a chain of measures which will be continuously fulfilled during 2006.

Despite the Government's projected inflation rate of 9.3%, the NBS Monetary Council adopted the monetary plan for 2006 last week without any explicit statement of how great inflation will be.

"The NBS will do everything within its competence to lower the rate of inflation but as an institution we do not have the instruments, which would enable us to carry out the targeting of inflation for at least another year", says Jelasic.

For 2005, inflation will definitely have hit around 17 per cent,

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CorD | January 2006

and in the adopted budget for 2006, supported by the IMF, inflation of around 9.3 per cent is implicitly built in.

Now, when the Government has harmonised the basic parameters of macroeconomic policy and certain regulations with the IMF, do all of the reconditions for keeping inflation within the planned frame exist?

In the adopted documents there are several good things, which were discussed in public, but also several important things which were not mentioned. On the other side, some things could have been done better. One good thing, about which there was a great deal of discussion, was that the new package of measures will include both prices and wages at the local level of power (which has not been the case so far), the growth of which will be controlled by Parliament. That is a sort of guarantee that in this sector there will be no breaches, as was the case in previous years.

However, there is another, more important element which was not discussed in detail, pertaining to the fact that the Government explicitly undertook the responsibility to save every surplus income over the planned 490million dinars, which has not been the case so far.

As regards the negative part, the planned growth of the budget income and wage growth of around 12 per cent - with inflation at 9.3%, increases people's expectations that their incomes will realistically grow even though it is not known whether there will be sufficient sources for any realistic growth in wages. It would be much better if they went with significantly lower figures in that part.

Are there any rational reasons to believe that there will be space for the realistic growth of wages in 2006?

It is obvious that some believe in a wage growth of three per cent. I think that it would be much better if we had a new arrangement with the IMF, because in that case we would be able to see if that is realistic in two or three months, and if not, to have a packet of measures prepared in advance for further adaptation, either through the budget or through amendments to certain laws.

Interview Is it true that the IMF was prepared to begin with the new arrangement immediately, but that the Government resisted that solution?

What I can say is that during the talks, neither the Prime Minister nor the Government formally requested a new arrangement. The IMF definitely did not leave Belgrade with such a request. The possibility of the new arrangement was mentioned only as a consideration of certain ministers, but they did not go any further. On the contrary, politics are used by some people in advance as an excuse for the explanation of why we did not enter a new arrangement with the IMF. Were there any indications from the IMF that they would accept a new arrangement if we were to make such a request?

The form is such that our side has to submit the request. I am sure that the IMF would oblige our new programme, but it will be visible how good a pupil we were during this three-year standby programme when we see what the IMF will set as the preconditions for the new programme and how long any new negotiations will last.

As regards the current arrangement, it is definitely in the interests of both sides to bring it to an end, because both sides want to show that they were successful. Along with that, the write-off of $700million to the Paris Club is very important.

Is it true that the IMF is anxious to bring the current arrangement to an end because they have had enough of our lack of solidarity, changes of deadlines, the adoption of laws in ways that were not agreed and similar events which arose in 2005?

It is a fact that we demanded extensions from the IMF and the Paris Club on two occasions and, therefore, had two makeup examinations. That is truly not the best recommendation for a new programme.

Some analysts claim that Serbia made a clever tactical move by not requesting a new arrangement during these negotiations, because in that case the IMF would have tightened the conditions for completing the current one?

Some people say the opposite: if you had already requested a new programme, they would be more flexible regarding the fulfilment of the conditions regarding the current one, because they would be sure that those things you did not do correctly this time

Jelašić: ‘paid to be unpopular’

would become an obligation of the next arrangement. The rules of negotiations with the IMF are not given in advance and different people claim different things.

Our total debt to the IMF is $900 million, which is equal to one and a half quotas. Therefore, the IMF mission will be visiting Belgrade frequently in spite of there being no arrangement. Is that so?

That is one of the reasons. But, since this regards the post monitoring programme, we do not have any additional obligations. Rather, the IMF merely monitors whether we fulfil the obligations we have already taken on, and which extend to 2006.

Those are, primarily, the privatisation of NIS, and sale of refineries, the Government's promise that it will not spend a single dinar over the planned revenue, and some measures from the sphere of monetary and interest policies.

Nevertheless, isn't it true that there are some political reasons which make it difficult to negotiate with the IMF at present; until the referendum in Montenegro and the Kosovo issue is resolved, it is not clear which entity is obliged to fulfil the obligations; or perhaps the Government does not want a closer relationship with the IMF because 2006 could be the year of elections?

SEEKING A BUYER FOR VOJVOĐANSKA

CorD: Do we have a cartel in the banking system, as some economists claim?

Jelašić: The biggest bank in Serbia contributes 14 per cent to the total of the banking system, therefore there are no conditions for the existence of a cartel. It would be very important to consider that during the privatisation of Vojvodjanska Bank, because it would be strange for this Government - which criticised the previous one for not dealing with the quality of privatisation - to determine the amount of money offered to purchase the bank as being the key criterion. This is a real chance to see whether this Government will sell this bank to someone who offers the most money, even if the consequences of

that will be that the new owner takes over 20 per cent of the market, or whether it will give the bank to someone who will offer slightly less money, but will contribute more to the development of the market. cannot explicitly exclude the possibility of the existence of a cartel, but on the basis of figures I can say that, in total, the development of the banking system has contributed more to the crediting of the retail and enterprising sector than all of the money which the IMF, the World Bank, the EBRD and the IFC have given to this country. I think that it is very good that we have returned the trust in the banking system and provided the crediting volume of 4.5 billion euros in literally four years.

CorD | January 2006

25

Interview There are no any indications that 2006 could be the year of elections.

Among the political reasons, i.e. excuses, for the time being Kosovo and the referendum in Montenegro dominate.

Regarding negotiations with the IMF, I would like to emphasise that only the first preamble in the current arrangement was mutual, and that all of the following chapters, from the monetary policy to the restructuring, were separated for Serbia and Montenegro. As such, the whole programme has already been divided into two parts.

strengthen the transparency and say: "Here, by 31st March we will do "x" and "y", so that people know exactly what the Government's intentions are. That is much cleverer than to reach 31st March and say: "We planned something in December and, by a miracle, that was achieved". This is why the fact that the economic policy programme was published on the IMF's site was important. Still, nobody has banned the Government from being proactive.

The National Bank of Serbia will soon issue new securities intended for individual citizens, denominated in amounts of 5,000 dinars over a period of three months and with up to 25% interest rate. "We want to offer citizens the chance to save in dinars, to increase sterilisation (money supply) and to prove to banks that it is possible to offer this market an attractive product in dinars"

In any case, we have now reached the phase of transition in which there are no easy tasks and where it is important for the monetary and fiscal policy to be harmonised. Still, that is not the case in our country?

Everything which has been done in the last four or five years shows that when the IMF is here, that is a necessity.

But it is not a sufficient reason to achieve everything that was supposed to be achieved. Relatively high inflation shows that. Therefore, we are the actors who are supposed to bear the responsibility for everything which was carried out in the economic policy. It is because of this that teamwork is essential, above all in the sphere of monetary and fiscal policy.

Is it true that the IMF has so far carried out all of the calculations for the Serbian Government and found that our country does not have either the appropriate expert capacities or the methodology to calculate all the indicators which would show what is really happening in the economy?

As regards the NBS, that is not true. We will, of course, report to the IMF in this next phase about what is happening, and will probably request their advice more than we did in the previous period, because while we had the arrangement we knew that they would be coming here, regardless of whether we wanted that or not. The new relationship after the completion of the arrangement will be on a voluntary basis.

However, what is certain is that we will miss their appraisals, as one additional view on the situation, for instance, of what is happening with the restructuring of public companies. That kind of information would additionally support us and confirm whether we and the IMF see things in the same way.

That means that you will be living in the dark, or at least in relative darkness?

No, I will see what is happening in the budget. Therefore, I won't be living in the dark, but I will not have one additional confirmation - the IMF's opinion about that budget. If I am not going to have that confirmation, I would like to see how someone in London, Frankfurt or New York will be able to estimate, for instance, the speed of our restructuring.

I am afraid that there will be much less transparency after the end of this arrangement. Previously, everything the Government promised to fulfil and everything that was carried out was published on the IMF's website where everybody could see it.

The state should now use this period without an arrangement to

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CorD | January 2006

The Paris Club will write-off debts of $700 million, but in the meantime companies are continuing to incur debts of the same amount. So where, then, is the change?

They have got into debt for even more than that amount. But the difference is that this debt will not come from you or my pockets, as taxpayers.

Qualitatively, that is much better, but there is still a line beyond which we should not go. At this moment, state debt to the GDP is less then 60 per cent, which is a rational level of debt.

However, because of companies getting into debt abroad, the country's credit rating is important.

Certain Cabinet members have announced that we will soon hear a better rating than the current one?

It is certain that writing-off the debt from the Paris Club will have an important influence on that rating, but also on the speed of the negotiations regarding the new programme with the IMF and the EU Stabilisation and Association Agreement.

A much bigger problem will be to convince the political actors and the public that we need a new programme with the IMF, because that programme will not have such 'carrots' as writingoff the state's debts. The new arrangement will bring much more subtle results. For instance, the referent interest rates for the debiting of Sintelon from Backa Palanka will fall from 2 to 1.5 per cent, but there will be nothing that we will be able to present as a global result, such as the renewal of schools or similar things.

Because of that, I think that it will be much more difficult to convince people that we need an arrangement at all.

On the other hand, the crediting conditions in the country will get worse. The NBS has increased mandatory reserves again, has it not?

The mandatory reserve level of 38 per cent is definitely not something that will cause economic growth. That literally means that out of 100 euros which you deposit in the banking system, the NBS takes 38 without a single dinar in interest. Consequently, that leaves bankers with 62 euros left to use to generate profit in order to pay interest of five to six per cent for 100 euros.

Therefore, all those who invite us (the NBS) to do more on the side of monetary policy, should know that that means fewer credits, higher interest rates and greater restrictions. That would mean that not only will you not blow into the sails of economic growth, you will blow against them.

The raising of statutory reserves is a rigid and very unpopular measure.

We are paid to be unpopular. •

Economics

After initial trembling-kneed pessimism and random gasps of alarm, German companies have found that Serbia is the right destination for their investments. At least, that's what the first survey conducted in Serbia by the German Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DIHK) shows. Nevertheless, the fear remains that a good experience on the ground fails to create such a resounding echo as unflattering news about Serbia's political relations with the international community

CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM Tanja Jakobi; Photo: Jelena Mandić alf of the German companies operating in Serbia that were polled by the German Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DIHK) in Belgrade's first ever survey described their position as "good", while 45 per cent said it was "satisfying." About 70 per cent of them expect 2006 to be a year of further development, while the reminder anticipates the business climate to remain the same.

"All in all, we are looking at the future of this market with patient optimism," says Marek Kuchta, Deutsche Lufthansa general manager for Serbia & Montenegro. Lufthansa has been operating on this market since 1967 and "the business climate for a German airline has always been very good, "says Kuchta.

Kuchta and Johannes Heidecker, financial director of DaimlerChrysler in SCG, share the same opinion about some important business standards implemented in Serbia.

With regard to aviation, all the general trends in the world aviation industry have been followed and introduced: a

H

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complete IATA travel agency structure, very modern settlement solutions (IATA BSP), well established reservation systems, electronic ticketing; ticketing fees instead of standard travel agency commission.

The same goes for accounting standards. "My colleagues are always amazed if I explain that in Serbia we've had IFRS standards since 2004 (2003 for banks), while in most other countries they are still to come," says Heidecker. "I congratulate the courage of the government to introduce VAT when everyone predicted catastrophe. Also, the banking system is

"Although German companies which are already in Serbia are doing well, the number of companies is small. Nominally, half of them are in production but, substantially, measured in terms of operations, the number of German producers is quite moderate quite modern and the monetary policy of the National Bank seems very reasonable to me. The biggest "financial" problem in my eyes is the poor telecommunication network."

The results of the survey, which are generally very positive, should serve as an invitation to a lot of German companies which are still cautious and see Serbia predominately as a country with high political risk. "We feel that the image of Serbia in the EU business community is not as good as in reality," says Maren Diale-Schellschmidt, resident DIHK Delegate, Executive Director of the German Business Association in Belgrade, and head of the DIHK office for Macedonia and Albania in Skopje.

DIHK plans to present the results of the survey to business operators in Germany. The German embassy in Belgrade also

Economics

BUSSES DRIVING DEMAND

"Most of our revenue comes from commercial vehicles," says Heidecker. "No one buys a truck or bus because of the image of Mercedes. In the commercial vehicle segment, customers pay for quality because the money comes back with lower fuel costs, reliable vehicles and less maintenance."

Attractive financing offers have increased the demand in Serbia. "The biggest impact from availability of financing came for commercial vehicles.

We now have financial partners with special offers for small companies or municipalities, offering not only financing, but also financial consulting. This allows buyers to purchase our vehicles and save money. In 2001, before there were any financing offers, we sold 250 vehicles. In 2004, we sold 1300," says Heidecker plans to disseminate the report in order to attract more companies to the Serbian market.

According to Otmar Greiff, Embassy Counsellor and head of the Economic Co-operation Section, German companies have so far invested â‚Ź433million in the Serbian market.

Nominally, half of them are in production but, substantially, measured in terms of operations, the number of German producers is quite moderate (30%), while 35 per cent come from the retail sector and half hail from the services sector (a crossover of sectors was found). About a half of German companies operating here have their own subsidiary companies in Serbia, while 40 per cent have representative offices and just three of them are joint ventures.

"Although German companies which are already in Serbia are doing well, the number of companies is small. And there is a fear that, in spite of our efforts to send a positive message about the business climate in Serbia, big foreign companies have already satisfied their goals in terms of a presence in the Southeast Europe: for them, Bulgaria and Romania mark the border of the region," says Alexander Picker, general manager of HVB Bank in Belgrade. "These companies may never consider a move or expansion into Serbia and if that is not understood in Serbia, and if authorities are slow to improve the image of the country, it could prove dangerous."

Indeed, while 60 percent of respondents are considering increasing their investments in Serbia, 15 per cent of them would, given the chance, start their business in China or neighbouring Romania, Bulgaria and Russia.

"Political and economic instability, or a perception of it in the financial world, has been in general a major drawback, as it keeps the really big investments away from the country, and therefore prevents the real growth of air traffic that is taking place in other countries in CEE," says Kuchta. "Although,

geographically, SCG is a natural centre of the region, it is not perceived as neutral by some of its neighbours. It also has many internal problems, which might prevent investors from establishing their major businesses and regional headquarters here."

From the point of view of Lufthansa, there is a big difference between the appeal of Serbia, on one side, and Romania and DIHK’s Maren Diale-Schellschmidt Bulgaria, with their soonto-happen accession to the EU, on the other. "Maybe geographically not very central, those two countries are surely the motors of the region's economy," says Kuchta. "This is all reflected in Lufthansa's operations. Romania and Bulgaria are high growth markets, with more new flights and destinations every year and a major share of business travellers. We operate 40 weekly flights to

Economics

LABOUR LAW

Johannes Heidecker: "The new Labour law has been an extremely divisive issue between businesses and state officials. In other countries, these issues would have been discussed first between employee representatives and employers, and the results of those negotiations would have become law. In Serbia, the process was very painful. This is regrettable, because consensus takes more time, but brings better results".

For DaimlerChrysler, the issue of age bonuses (which have been discussed at the level of the Ministry of Labour and the Foreign Investors' Council), is of lesser importance. "Our salaries are above average. Salaries are linked to contributions to company profit. If the company makes money, our coffee lady makes more money. We have employees who earn more than their bosses this way! Older employees normally have more experience than younger ones, and consequently earn more. This does not change, no matter how the law says the salary should be split," says Heidecker.

Heidecker believes that, for a country like Serbia, the major labour problem lays in the fact that too many people do not have a job. Problem number Two: companies that pay full social charges and taxes have a disadvantage versus those that do not.

Romania (Bucharest and Timisoara) and 32 weekly flights to Bulgaria (Sofia), charter flights to Varna are not included. SCG also shows growth in traffic, but it's rather moderate and still very Diaspora oriented, with Switzerland, Germany, the U.S. and Australia, i.e. areas of concentration of Serbian minorities, being the major destinations from the country."

Although Serbia has shown some impressive progress, with regard to reforms, Picker says that these efforts should be comprehensive and implemented evenly at all levels of the administration. "This would persuade potential foreign investors that they may count on the decisive support of the

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institutions and their willingness to remove all administrative obstacles and bottlenecks," says the HVB general manager.

Relatively high inflation presents a real challenge to domestic and foreign companies that count on revenue coming from the domestic market.

"Inflation means that, in real terms, your costs today are higher than your revenue tomorrow. Foreign companies either adjust their prices or stop selling in Serbia," says Heidecker.

"For example, if you buy a product for 1,000 dinars and sell it later for 1,050 dinars, you make a 50-dinar profit and you even pay taxes. But with an inflation of 10 per cent, if you bought the goods back you would have to pay 1,100 dinars. At the end of the day, when you sell one product from your stock and buy one back, you lose money, despite showing a taxable profit in your books. I have seen companies in Serbia with huge problems because of this, and some haven't even realised it."

Furthermore, general political issues, such as setbacks in relations with The Hague Tribunal, slow progress in association with the EU; disputes within the State Union over the Montenegrin referendum and current negotiations with Kosovo are generating a negative image of Serbia and, thus, effecting the country risk - assessed by state insurance agencies, such as Hermes and Sacce - and hampering trade relations between the EU countries and SCG. All these agencies grade Serbia as being a country in the highest risk category.

"As a bank, we have a lot of German clients interested in Serbia and we are making efforts to persuade Hermes (the German state export insurance agency) to adjust the credit risk for Serbia to a more adequate level, but it will take quite some time before something can be achieved," says Picker.

Member states of the OECD have a unified approach when it comes to decisions of their state export agencies and, therefore, Serbia has to put a lot of multilateral political effort into improving its image.

"It's a long and painstaking process," says Hans-Joerg Krohn, manager of Commerzbank's Belgrade representative office. "Although, on our side, we are making lot of efforts to persuade our decision makers that the business climate in Serbia has improved a lot, it is up to Serbian authorities to make the crucial effort." •

How would you assess the attractiveness of SCG for investments, compared with:

Bulgaria Croatia Romania Russia Slovenia Hungary Germany China

1 20.6% 5.9% 5.9% 14.7% 5.9% 2.9% 11.8% 8.8%

2 11.8% 20.6% 11.8% 14.7% 11.8% 14.7% 11.8% 11.8%

3 32.3% 20.6% 35.3% 20.6% 20.6% 26.5% 5.9% 17.6%

Key 1: much better - 5 ; much worse - 1

4 11.8% 29.4% 23.5% 20.6% 23.5% 14.7% 20.6% 23.5%

5 12.9% 5.9% 5.9% 8.8% 20.6% 23.5% 32.2% 20.6%

PLANTING THE ROOTS OF ROUTES

By Zoran Knežević erbia & Montenegro enjoys the simultaneous status of being both centrally positioned in Southeast Europe and a natural link between Central Europe and Southeast Europe. This is particularly relevant for the country's transportation network and its function and position in the larger region's system of communications. Utilising this favourable position properly may be one of Serbia & Montenegro's most important economic assets in the future. Transportation, in all its dimensions, could well come to form the strongest foundation for economic development in Serbia & Montenegro.

Five years after the fall of the Milošević regime, the political and economic situation in Serbia & Montenegro has substantially improved, as has the country's position vis-a-vis the international community. However, at least some of the country's major transportation networks are still in a poor condition, mainly due to the still relatively low trade exchange between former Yugoslav countries, primarily between the largest of the former joint-state's republics: Serbia and Croatia.

While SCG was isolated from the international political scene, many transportation routes were developed, and many others which were once considered important (i.e. those traversing Serbia) lost their attractiveness and economic logic.

For example, the River Sava Corridor has not regained its former importance, and the Danube (Corridor 7) may never re-emerge as the important pan-European corridor it was once thought to be.

S

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In stark contrast to many experts' opinions that the Danube has excellent prospects as a transportation axis, Dr. Peter Jordan - expert of the Viennabased Austrian East and Southeast Institute - believes that even after the elimination of all political and infrastructure obstacles, the Danube will not attract significant volumes of goods seeking transportation First of all, the decline in the importance of the Sava corridor is due to a decline in trade relations in general between the former Yugoslav republics. Indicative of this decline, according the Austrian East & Southeast Institute's Professor Peter Jordan, is the massive drop in cargo volumes being handled by Croatia's main seaport Rijeka. As Jordan notes, the volume of cargo passing through Rijeka dropped from 20 million tons in the late '80s (when it was the then Yugoslavia's main seaport) to just five million tons in 2004.

"Other reasons are that using the Sava Corridor one has to cross an additional border [from Serbia to Croatia], compared to routes through Hungary. For trucks, this may mean several hours delay - a waste of time and money," says Jordan. "Austria conducts a rather restrictive road transit policy, especially with routes crossing the Alps. This lets transports from Germany bypass Austria in the North via the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary. Slovenia is very reluctant to develop its transportation routes towards Croatia and favours other options. This means that the Sava Corridor along its Slovenian section between Ljubljana and the Croatian border is not in the best condition."

On the other hand, "Hungary is developing a very aggressive transportation policy in all directions and rapidly upgrading its motorway network radiating from Budapest. Route M1 between Budapest and Vienna was completed years ago. Route M3 from Budapest to Northern Europe is almost complete.

It directs transportation from Ukraine, south-eastern Poland,

Economics - Transportation

eastern Slovakia and, of course, Romania towards Budapest, thus re-establishing the Hungarian capital as the main transportation route in the Panonia Basin. This is a typical example of an aggressive transportation policy", explains Jordan.

Next year, Hungary will also complete its Motorway 5 to the South, to Szeged and the Serbian border, which means that the Sava Corridor will be replaced by a better alternative and be downgraded to a sub-regional connection.

"It is also important to emphasise the fact that the routes developed to bypass Serbia and Montenegro in the 1990s have kept most of their transportation volume. This is true for the Hungarian-Romanian-Bulgarian route towards Istanbul.

(Budapest-Szolnok-Arad-Sibiu-Pitesti-Bucharest-Ruse). Not only Hungary, but also Romania and Bulgaria are investing a lot of efforts and financial means to upgrade these routes by constructing motorways. This is also true for the Adriatic ferryboat routes to Greece. There is just one example of a bypass losing its meaning. This is the route in the West of Bulgaria from the Danube at Vidin, via Sofia down to Greece. It has completely lost its transit functions mainly due to bottlenecks on the route. "It has not been upgraded and construction works at the planned Danube Bridge between Calafati and Vidin have not even started," says Jordan.

In respect to the position of Serbia & Montenegro in the international transportation system, and its ambitions to restore the frequency and the quantity of its transportation network, developments in neighbouring countries represent a serious setback.

In practice, it means that there is serious potential of revival of the Belgrade-Budapest route, but at the expense of the Sava Corridor, and at least a relative decline for the Morava-Vardar Corridor.

The development of the Western Balkan's transportation potential depends greatly on the efforts of the countries in the region to speed up their EU integration.

"Let's assume that the Western Balkan countries will be fully integrated members of the EU. In terms of transportation, full EU membership means the elimination of all political trans-

Current Situation

ceed in regaining shares from the current bypasses and alternatives in the North (Romanian) and South (Adriatic ferries).

According to Dr Jordan, Montenegro is not likely to play a major role in the international transportation system, even when the Croatian motorways are extended south-eastward, perhaps even through Montenegro to Albania and Greece (as some plans suggest). Such a route may be of value to tourist movements, but it will just connect economic peripheries and therefore not comply with a major traffic tension, which is necessary to create some transportation volume year-round.

"Many may be surprised that I did not mention Danube river Corridor as a potential major transportation route. In contrast to many other opinions investing high expectations into the Danube as a transportation axis, I would say Montenegro is not likely to play a major role in the inter- that, even after the elimination of all transportanational transportation system, even when the Croatian tion obstacles, the Danube will not be able to major transportation volumes. This is for motorways are extended south-eastward, perhaps attract several reasons: the Danube flows in the "wrong" even through Montenegro to Albania and Greece direction and into the "wrong" sea. Even for an enterprise in Belgrade, it is hardly efficient to ship port restrictions, the return (or rather the first approach) of the its products along the Danube to Constance (a port in region to a large, free, almost unlimited market, where competi- Romania) and from there to overseas, when the port of tors in different countries have equal opportunities. Due to that Thessalonica is much closer to Belgrade and much closer to the access to such a large market with considerable volumes of eco- Atlantic Ocean or the Suez Canal," says Jordan. "The Rhinenomic exchange, the volume of transport would certainly grow. Maine-Danube Canal and the access to the North Sea ports it It was the experience of the "old" EU countries, and it was provides are advantageous only for the upper Danube, down to closely followed by the new EU members when transportation Budapest at the maximum."

A secondary argument is that industrial production prorapidly grew after accession to the EU," says Jordan.

In a macro-regional scope, Budapest and Hungary will cer- ceeds from basic materials and mass goods towards finalisation tainly regain their former positions (that they had in the Austro- and rather sophisticated products in all EU countries. For these Hungarian Monarchy) as a gateway and distributor of transport products river navigation is not the proper means of transportaflows between southern parts of Western and Central Europe, tion, because in cargo transport the most important demand on the one hand, and Southeast Europe and the Middle East on today is to have a certain cargo at a certain destination "just in the other. This is already obvious and Hungary is exerting all time." Therefore, "speed does not matter too much as long as efforts to realise this role. Simultaneously, however, Belgrade slow-moving river cargo arrives at its destination at a certain and NiĹĄ have the potential to fit into the role of further gateways point in time. However, river navigation can never guarantee in this direction if they establish a link with the Hungarian that, for it is subject to many natural whims: in spring and transportation network and the Morava-Vardar Corridor, as autumn floods may occur; in winter and summer the Danube's water levels may drop too low. Both may cause transport delays well as the route from NiĹĄ through Bulgaria to Turkey.

Under these conditions, the Serbian routes may well suc- of even weeks", explains Jordan. • CorD | January 2006

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Column

TV LOSSES & PRINT PRESS PROFIT This year will see a marked increase in the share of assets investment into advertising in Serbia's print media, at the expense of television. This is because the new Law on Public Advertising, which took effect at year’s end 2005, gives preference to newspapers over electronic media he media industry did not stabilise completely in 2005, but some basic stabilising conditions were created. If things develop further in this direction, we could expect a solid base for the growth of the industry.

First of all, there is a lot of positive data: an estimated €95million was invested in media advertising in 2005 ($15million more than in 2004), as stated by AGB Nielsen director, Darko Broćić, speaking at the Golden Rooster Festival.

Growth rate has maintained a steady pace year on year, and could continue at a much higher rate. For example, the amount spent on advertising in Croatia is double that spent in Serbia. Croatia is a wealthier country, but has a smaller population than Serbia, which makes the two media markets comparable.

While making a forecast analysis of the media market in 2006, one should bear in mind that there will be a marked increase in the share of assets invested in print media advertising at the expense of television, because the new Law on Public Advertising, which took effect at year’s end 2005, gives preference to newspapers over broadcast media. There is no doubt that there will be changes to the current advertising ratio of 63% for television, 20% for print media, 12% for new media, 4% for radio and 1% for other forms of advertising.

We can also expect major shifts in the ownership status of a large number of media outlets. Namely, the government has consented to the privatisation of some 20 local media, mostly radio and TV stations, as well as municipally-owned weekly journals. So, the final date for privatising print media, due in April 2006, and for electronic media, due by the end of 2007, is just that - final. Meanwhile, the transformation of ownership status has already begun. The positive impact of privatisation on the health of the media industry is unquestionable.

There are indicators that the Broadcasting Law will soon be put into effect. Indeed, one of its most important elements has already been put into practice with the Government's introduction of mandatory subscription that should provide financial sustainability to Radio Television Serbia as it endeavours to become a truly Public Broadcasting Service (PBS). Political autonomy remains a problem, however.

T

Nebojša Spaić Media advisor, Executive Group

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CorD | January 2006

We can only hope that the Broadcasting Council will start exercising its powers and name an independent Steering Committee that will, in turn, appoint a Director and close the circuit that will run the PBS. The position of the PBS is such that it defines the entire media scene. An independent, objective radio and television programme of high quality and influence would set standards for other broadcast media and, subsequently, for media as a whole.

The Broadcasting Law also regulates a whole series of other key issues in the media industry. If introducing subscription is a hint that the law will indeed be implemented, then we should also expect a plan for mapping and distributing broadcast frequencies. Once put into practice, the plan would reduce the current number of television stations from 750 to less than 300, the maximum feasible number in Serbia, both from the aspect of technical limitations, i.e. the number of available frequencies, and the scope of the market. However, one should also consider that, essentially, neither the Broadcasting Council nor the government have done more than introduce the RTS 'license fee'. Concerns remain, then, over whether they will also make those particular steps that do not simply satisfy their immediate interests.

We can expect big shifts in the ownership status of a large number of media outlets.

Namely, the government has consented to the privatisation of some 20 local media, mostly radio and TV stations, as well as municipally-owned weekly journals As for content, the media have improved conditions in terms of product quality. Attempts to put them under political and, increasingly, commercial pressure still exist; journalists are paid a pittance and the violation of professional ethics has become commonplace among the most popular media.

Nevertheless, the situation is within the limits of expectations and sustainability.

The aggregate positive indicators - the growth trend in advertising, the introduction of the Law on Advertising, the privatisation upswing and the first steps in implementing the Broadcasting Law - coupled with a stabilising tendency of their position in society, provide an optimistic if not definitive picture of the media industry and suggest the possibility of increased investment and market growth, both in terms of quality and quantity. •

Interview

KNOCKING ON EUROPE'S DOOR If all goes to plan, a year from now, Bulgaria - along with Romania - will be announced as the newest member of the European Union. But, with a number of key accession criteria yet to be fully met, Bulgaria's accession date is by no means set in stone

H.E. Georgi Dimitrov, Ambassador of Bulgaria in Belgrade

By Mark Pullen; Photo: Jelena Mandić

rganised crime is one of the major problems continuing to dog the integration aspirations of Bulgaria and, speaking to CorD this month, Bulgarian Ambassador in Belgrade, H.E. Georgi Dimitrov, admitted: "crime is a fact in Bulgaria which cannot be denied‌it certainly affects the lives of ordinary people, the overall political and social climate and the image of the country." Nevertheless, Ambassador Dimitrov is confident that "the prospects for the accession of my country to the EU remain bright".

O

How confident is the Bulgarian Government that the country's scheduled accession to the EU will go ahead on time?

Gone are the times of prophets and what I say is not necessarily what will come to pass in a year's time. Did anybody foresee what would happen in the cradle of Europe when it came to the adoption of a common constitutive act? Did anybody issue a warning signal that budgetary debate within the EU would influence the enlargement agenda? Who could believe

WHICH EU AM I JOINING?

The 'no' votes in France and Holland didn't directly impact on the optimism of Bulgarians, but "they did create a negative environment in the whole European project and we are concerned by the possibility that we might finally join a European Union that's not really the one we thought we were applying for. This could perhaps put the whole idea of European unity at risk".

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CorD | January 2006

that former rulers and opposition in Bulgaria would board the same boat in an effort to secure the European perspective of the country? These are unpredictabilities which are still valid, but I do believe that the prospects for the accession of my country to the EU remain bright.

The ratification process of Bulgaria's accession agreement in EU member states is proceeding in accordance with the expected schedule. Political support for Bulgaria's membership is rather high in Europe. The Government's resolve to cope with the remaining problems is more than evident. The legislative branch is mobilised to the extreme. Society as a whole has been longing for this outcome for years now. We have a final path to traverse. We should not let our momentum slip: to stumble and fall now would be a great disappointment.

Bulgaria's authorities are aware of this.

How tough has the transition period been for the Bulgarian nation?

You made a good point by asking "How tough was it?" instead of "Was it tough?" For the nation as a whole, the transition was tough - no doubt about it. It has been tough not so much at the level of ideology, though nostalgia and inertia cannot be overruled. Rather, it has been tough in the day-to-day life - when one came to realise that a job is far from secure, that free-ofcharge healthcare and education are no longer a must, that with one's pension one cannot meet basic needs. On the other hand, to be frank, transition was a great time for a certain category of people, living perfectly well in troubled waters. Hopefully, such people will disappear from the stage with EU membership.

There was a debate recently in Bulgaria on whether the transition period has elapsed or not. I think we should stop

Interview thinking about transition as a process proceeding from past to present. We should rather concentrate on the ways to transit to future. The people of Bulgaria have a millennium's worth of history and have survived many transitions. They will face up properly to the present one as well.

The BBC published a poll this summer which showed that 70 per cent of Bulgarians are in favour of the country joining the EU in January 2007. Is there still a significant minority opposed to EU membership and, if so, why?

The figures you point out are correct. Public support for membership of the EU has been steady from the very start of Bulgaria's journey towards Europe. I do not see a significant political or social factor in the country opposing EU membership. I cannot exclude, however, people from the "grey area" who do not want to play by the rules and would prefer the status quo situation of a "no man's land". I believe these people are both socially and politically manageable.

Another problematic element is the exaggerated expectations of what future EU membership will bring, which are being nurtured in Bulgaria, willingly or unwillingly. Educating the people and explaining to them that membership entails additional challenges, responsibilities and burdens, is one of the formidable tasks the government is confronted with, coupled with the need to realistically show the full benefits of membership. The final decision, however, will be made outside Bulgaria and potential euro scepticism there will count more.

What requirements does Bulgaria still need to fulfil in order to confirm the accession criteria have been met?

The shortcomings that still exist are laid down in the reports of the European Commission and make part of its monNO POLITICAL PROBLEMS FOR BULGARIAN MINORITY

"We have a minority of around 30,000 living in Serbia.

These people live primarily along the border with Bulgaria in the municipalities of Dimitrovgrad and Bosilegrad… In the towns of Dimitrovgrad and Bosilegrad Bulgarians make up the majority and the mayors are both ethnic Bulgarians.

"These people are loyal Serbian citizens, but they have their links with Bulgaria, in terms of education and culture…We are trying to develop their cultural identity to help them educate their children in their mother tongue and to help educational institutions, libraries, schools, nurseries, cultural centres, etc. In this we are co-operating with the Serbian authorities.

"Their problems nowadays are not political, but rather social and economic. These are among the poorest regions in Serbia and, I must admit, across the border they are also among the poorest municipalities in Bulgaria. The whole region needs a lot of attention and a lot of investment to develop infrastructure, SMEs, trade, etc. If Serbia & Montenegro and Bulgaria fail to invest in these regions - that are already experiencing constant depopulation - they will not have a bright future."

Fact of life: “biased jurors and corrupt politicians exist everywhere” itoring activities vis-a-vis Bulgaria. In the months to come, we have to show not only political will, which nobody questions, but also practical achievements in the fight against crime and corruption, the reform of the judiciary, the streamlining of agricultural and environmental policies and some others, in order to avoid a recourse to a "safety clause". But let me state that these things should be done not for the sake of the requirements of the EU, but for the interests of Bulgarian society itself.

The impartiality of the judicial system and political corruption have been identified as the greatest obstacles yet to be fully overcome in your country. What steps are being taken to amend this situation? …Biased jurors and corrupted politicians exist everywhere in the world. The problem is how much they influence socioeconomic life, on the one hand, and what mechanisms are put in operation by the state in order to minimise their negative effect, on the other hand.

Bulgaria is a country with reputable democratic institutions, so that malpractices in high places are not easily performed. But, yes, our judicial system may seem inefficient on many occasions and corruption practices are witnessed as well.

The present Bulgarian government has taken resolute measures to remedy the situation. The Parliament has passed quite a number of pieces of legislation to that effect. Amendments to the Constitution are even envisaged. A country which is on the threshold of the European Union cannot be regarded as being driven by corruption.

How much has the problem of organised crime hindered Bulgaria's progress and does it continue to affect the country's reform effort?

CorD | January 2006

37

Interview Regretfully, crime is a fact in Bulgaria which cannot be denied. I am not an expert in this field and I cannot myself determine whether or not it is organised. What I can say is that it certainly affects the lives of ordinary people, the overall political and social climate and the image of the country.

The struggle against crime is one of the priorities of the Bulgarian Government and is high on the agenda of its international activities, because crime has no homeland and knows no borders nowadays.

This is particularly important in the Balkans and with Serbia & Montenegro, for instance, we have developed our interaction in this field quite well.

What efforts is Bulgaria exerting to assist the countries of the region on their respective journeys towards EU accession?

Bulgaria has signed a Memorandum of co-operation on European and Euro Atlantic integration with Serbia & Montenegro, which is being implemented quite successfully. We have similar arrangements with other countries of the Western Balkans.

My country is very much interestBulgaria has signed a Memoraned in having all of its neighbours pardum of co-operation on European ticipate in the structures of a united Europe. We wholeheartedly weland Euro Atlantic integration comed the beginning of negotiations with SCG, which is being implefor Serbia & Montenegro's Stabilisamented quite successfully tion and Association Agreement with the EU. Moreover, our support is not Do you think that organised crime only moral and political: we are ready can in fact prosper in the Union, particto share information, knowledge and ularly street crime targeting tourists - drug dealing and prostituexperience to the extent we are asked and able to provide. tion, as has been the case in the Czech Republic?

This would at least help our partners avoid the mistakes we We do have prostitutes and beggars in Bulgaria, but we have have made on this journey of integration. to look at things in perspective and say that 15 years ago in all I've already had the opportunity to discuss the matter the countries of the former socialist bloc, including the then with the highest officials of Serbia & Montenegro, and we will Czechoslovakia and Bulgaria, there were no prostitutes, no begvery soon begin tangible activities regarding the common gars, no violence and life was probably quieter, but there were desire for co-operation. also no tourists and we are not saying that we want this time back. So things are not one-sided…In 2004 tourism generated a Will the fact that your neighbours are not EU members revenue of almost $3billion for the Bulgarian budget. prove a hindrance to Bulgaria?

When we speak about crime and corruption and all these …We would like to be members of one and the same club negative factors of life for which we are regularly criticised by alongside our neighbours: this is the only guarantee of stabilthe European Commission and the United States, we should not ity and prosperity in the region… forget that these phenomena were not invented in Bulgaria or In answer to your question, yes, there are definitely certain the other countries of the former bloc. These are phenomena developments that, if not managed properly, could be a hindrance that have had their highs and lows everywhere in the world. not only to Bulgaria, but to the European perspective of the whole Currently they are rather high in our country, but we believe region. The situation of the Kosovo issue is a case in point. that membership of the European Union will encourage more people to play by the rules, as well as narrowing the criminals' How would you define relations between SCG and Bulgaria? and corrupt individuals' potential scope of activities.

At a political level, relations have never been as good as they are now. We have a high level of understanding, I would say even of PARLIAMENTARIAN WORK ETHIC BREEDS SOLIDARITY friendship, between our leaders - presidents, prime ministers, ministers, etc. We have no outstanding political issues. We are building "I'm confident that our government understands that it confidence and developing contacts between our peoples.

We have all the necessary prerequisites to reach a new, very will be a heavy blow if we fail now, having all the goals high level of economic, cultural, technological and scientific cowe set ourselves just ahead of us. So, they are working operation. But we have a lot of work to do, first of all in the field hard and the Bulgarian Parliament is working like of infrastructure, in order to meet the expectations and the never before, debating and adopting all the legislation needs of the citizens of our two countries.

that is needed for accession…

"The Czech Republic recently ratified Bulgaria's Treaty of Accession, becoming the latest member state to do so. We now have seven countries which have ratified our treaty. Interestingly, six of these seven are new member states, and the other is our neighbour, Greece.

This shows solidarity among new member states and proves that we don't have problems connected to accession with countries that entered the Union immediately before us."

38

CorD | January 2006

What specific lessons can SCG and the other countries of the region draw from Bulgaria's seemingly successful transition and reform process?

Bulgaria's transition and reform process is neither seemingly nor fully successful. It has had its pros and cons, its ups and downs, its successes and failures. But hardships, setbacks and frustrations can be overcome with patience, wisdom and resolve, provided there is an appreciation of, or at least a feeling for, the main direction that should be followed. It is, of course, for every nation to decide how to shape its own future.

Individual models might not be universally applicable, but ethnic and religious peace and tolerance is one of the things that Bulgaria can be really proud of in the last fifteen years. •

Interview

REBUILDING LIVES, REBUILDING TIES Pakistan has developed into one of the fastest growing countries in Asia, performing successfully at a rate of knots and attracting hundreds of multinational companies to establish operations in the country. But Pakistani businessmen are still finding it hard to establish solid links in Serbia and Montenegro because, without a State Union Embassy in Islamabad, any wouldbe traveller to Belgrade from Pakistan has to first travel to China to secure a visa! t was way back in 1948, a year after Pakistan gained its independence, that Legation level diplomatic relations were first established between Islamabad and Belgrade. Over the next 15 years, bilateral relations between the two non-aligned countries developed and in 1963, Pakistan established a resident mission in Belgrade.

"Our relations have been quite long-standing and have had multiple dimensions", says A.S. Babar Hashmi, Charge d' Affaires of the Embassy of Pakistan in Belgrade. "The Embassy was closed down for eight years due to the war in this region, but it was reopened in June, 2001."

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A.S. Babar Hashmi, Charge d'affaires, Embassy of Pakistan, Belgrade By: Mark Pullen: Photo: Jelena Mandić "Our top priority now is to further strengthen our political relations and to bring these back to the pre-war level. Thus, we expect Serbia and Montenegro to re-open their Embassy in Islamabad. This is one of the issues that we have been discussing with the SCG Foreign Minister and the Serbian Prime Minister."

"Serbia and Montenegro are keen to re-open the Embassy, but obviously resource constraints are limiting their ability to do so".

However, progress is being made, despite this problem.

"One positive development is that an Honorary Consul General of Serbia and Montenegro is now working in Pakistan though still he is unable to issue visas".

THE KASHMIR DISPUTE

"There have been some positive developments in Kashmir. Pakistan is committed to solving this dispute peacefully. India's offer for earthquake relief assistance was accepted by Pakistan and both countries have reached an agreement to open five border crossing points in Kashmir, facilitating meetings of the people from both sides. But the political settlement of this issue remains to be materialised. We are moving in the right direction:40

CorD | January 2006

quite a few Confidence Building Measures (CBMs) have been taken and there is an ongoing Composite Dialogue between India and Pakistan. However, the progress on the Kashmir dispute remains very slow.

"We hope that this issue will be resolved peacefully and through dialogue and according to the aspirations of the Kashmiri people. Once this issue is resolved I'm sure both countries and their people will benefit from the peace dividend."

Interview Indeed, the visa problems preventing Pakistani businessmen from traveling to the State Union are serving to cripple potential trade ties between these two traditionally friendly states: "The fact that visas cannot be issued in the country means that people cannot be facilitated to travel or to trade.

While we can issue visas for local Serbia and Montenegrin businessmen to go to Pakistan, it is very difficult for a Pakistani businessman to come here and take part in trade and industry fairs and to establish ties with their counterparts. Now, in order to get a Serbia and Montenegro visa, Pakistanis have to travel to China! That is hindering the growth of our economic and trade relations."

"Our second priority is to boost the economic and trade relations. Our present trade volume is far below than our trade potential. There is a lot of scope for enhancing bilateral trade between the two countries, as there is a high level of complimentarity of our economies - whatever is needed here, Pakistan produces, and Pakistan can utilize some of what is produced here."

"There is also need for more exchanges and interaction between cultural groups, academics and members of civil society. We have an agreement between the Institute of International Politics and Economics (IIPE) in Belgrade and the Institute of Strategic Studies (ISS) in Islamabad so they can have more interaction and mutual exchanges".

"I am happy to share that ever since my arrival we have been able to send two cultural groups from here to Pakistan to participate in the Lahore Festival. One was 'Balkanika' and the other was a theatre group from Subotica that performed in Pakistan. In addition an official delegation from the Ministry of International Economic Relations visited Pakistan in October, 2005 and now we are expecting a delegation from Pakistan to visit Serbia and Montenegro in January, 2006."

TIMES OF CATASTROPHE On 8th October, 2005 Pakistan suffered an unprecedented and massive earthquake. This earthquake of immense magnitude (more than 7.6 on the Richter Scale) has been the biggest natural disaster in the living memory of Pakistanis.

MISDIRECTED MEDIA ATTACKS

CorD: How much is being done to fight problems of child labour in Pakistan?

Hashmi: "The issue is being tackled. We are in touch with ILO and UNICEF and have signed various agreements to fight child labour in whichever sector of society it is present. But that issue isn't the main problem.

Unfortunately, sometimes countries are targeted and smeared with culpability in something that has nothing to do with what they are being criticized for. When the issue of child labour became a focus of media attention, the root cause was Pakistan's then covert nuclear programme. Pakistan's huge carpet industry was one of the industries targeted with child labour accusations.

But that industry was hit because of the political considerations, rather than the child labour problem."

Hashmi praises the International Community According to the official figures 73,338 people died, more than 128,309 were injured (of which 69,612 seriously) and almost 3 million people became homeless. Despite the Government of Pakistan's efforts to muster all its resources to help those affected, the task is immense.

Praising instant assistance offered to Pakistan by the world, the Pakistani diplomat says: "the international community is helping generously. We are grateful for the prompt and generous assistance of the UN, EU, OIC, NATO and all other friendly countries who rushed to Pakistan in this hour of need." He also appreciated the people of Serbia & Montenegro and the diplomatic community in Belgrade, who contributed to the relief efforts by participating in the Fundraisers organised by the Asia Pacific Ladies Group and the British International School for the earthquake victims in South Asia.

"Providing assistance to the far flung and remote areas, where the Winter has already set in and the temperatures are below zero degree Celsius, is an uphill task. Following the UN Donors Conference in Geneva there was a Donors Conference in Pakistan in November in which pledges and loans for more than $6.2billion were made. However, some of these pledges are for long term reconstruction and rehabilitation while according to the UN there is an urgent requirement of around $550 million, of which UN has so far received only 40 per cent.

"With the Winter setting in and temperatures dropping, Mr. Hashmi admitted that the Pakistani authorities "are worried that the death toll may rise‌." The UNHCR, WHO and others have been talking about this issue and we can only hope that the immediate requirements of the people are met with help from the international community."

CorD | January 2006

41

Interview Hashmi says: "Priorities in Pakistan are slightly different at the moment because of the situation after the earthquake. Most of our resources are being channelled towards the rehabilitation of the victims".

ty big producer of leather goods, sports goods and surgical equipment.

Indeed, Pakistan's sports goods and surgical equipment have been recognized the world over. Quite a few of the world's hospitals use surgical instruments manufactured in Pakistan; and our footballs were once GETTING BACK TO BUSINESS utilized for the World Cup." "We feel that we can export much Though the earthquake has more to this country, as export figures proved a massive setback for this from Pakistan to SCG are quite low at country of 150 million plus people, the moment…. In view of SCG's priviPakistan cannot afford to neglect the leged textile export deal with the EU need to maintain its impressive ecothat has been further extended to 2010, nomic growth rate figures. the possibility of developing joint venOn the whole, Pakistan is develtures in this field can also be explored." oping extremely well and starting Mr. Hashmi says that the Government to achieve its full potential in its of Pakistan is not worried about the region and the wider global comcurrent fluid situation of the State munity: "Pakistan has been one of Union, its two republics and "Pakistan has one of the fastest growthe fastest growing economies in a provinces! "We know that the situaing economies in a very fast-growing very fast-growing region, and has tion is fluid to some extent, but Serbia been achieving an average growth and Montenegro are always going to region, and has been growing at a rate rate of around 8% per annum for be there in this region. Relations of around eight per cent per annum for the last five years. The World Bank between our countries have always the last five years and more. “ and IFC have all noted Pakistan's been friendly and we also have, and remarkable progress, and now we have always had, good relations with have been able to say goodbye to the countries which emerged from the IMF during these years." former Yugoslavia. So, we don't see that as a big problem."

"Investment climate in Pakistan is excellent. There are more than "There is no bilateral conflict, and we see nothing that could hin600 multinational companies operating in Pakistan at present. der relations between our two countries. We actually feel that now is Pakistan has stability, continuity of policies and economic vibrancy". a good time to further strengthen our bilateral and trade relations."

Industry in Pakistan is diverse and highly profitable, and, ultiReminding that friends should not be forgotten, the resident of mately, it will be sustainable industrial and trade links, as opposed Pakistan's diplomatic mission in Belgrade concludes: "Even though to donations, that will secure Pakistan's long-term recovery. the State Union is concentrating more on EU these days, we hope Explaining the country's main branches of industry and potenthat they would do so without forgetting traditional friends like tial areas for collaboration with SCG's economy, Mr. Hashmi says: Pakistan". Though Pakistan is further away from this region, the "Pakistan is quite big in textiles; around 60% of our exports are of country could prove to be an invaluable global friend. "Now-a-days textiles and textile-related products….There are some exports of texeven the 'Global Village' has further shrunk, and countries like tile products into Serbia and Montenegro, but those exports could Serbia and Montenegro can capitalize on that by strengthening their be much higher. Then there are leather products, Pakistan is a preteconomic and trade ties with friendly countries."•

NOTHING ISLAMIC ABOUT EXTREMISM

Speaking about the War on Terror, Mr. Hashmi explained that "Pakistan's role has been vital. Many of our armed forces personnel have lost their lives in this fight. We are committed to fighting terrorism. Some of the top terrorist leaders have been apprehended in Pakistan and immediately dealt with in accordance with the law, or handed over to the countries where they were sought. Pakistan is committed to eliminating this scourge, but this is a global phenomenon. We all have to pool our resources, share information and work together so that this scourge is eliminated."

"One problem is the notion of so called "Islamic Terrorism" linking these terror groups to a specific religion. This is unfortunate and misleading. Terrorism 42

CorD | January 2006

has no religion nor the followers of any particular religion could be branded as terrorists.

The use of this erroneous and misleading terminology by otherwise educated and responsible people may actually create a wedge between various civilizations and thereby making them unwitting partners of those who may follow the thesis of the Clash of Civilizations. Terrorism is a terrorism and has nothing to do with any religion. The use of such terminology should entirely be discarded and discouraged. The world, and particularly the media, has to take a more holistic, non-religious approach to the phenomenon of terrorism. This is a fight we all have to fight together and win together."

Society - People

FROM ROCKER TO DIPLOMAT ven true connoisseurs of the former Yugoslavia's rock scene would struggle to recognise the former drummer of the band ‘Film’, and other Zagreb groups of the '80s, in the image of today's diplomat Mr. Davor Vidiš.

Pictures of the longhaired Vidiš of yesteryear show what a transformation has taken place, and Vidiš himself admits that it is as if the image had been shot in some long time past, of a spirit all but forgotten.

Perhaps that's why the present Consul General of the Republic of Croatia in Subotica looks surprised when asked if the best brand of Yugoslavia was the country's former rock scene; a scene that has since produced diplomats and politicians.

Vidiš laid his successful rock career to rest long ago, consigning that time to the oblivion of his private memories: the din of drums does little to compliment the subtleties of diplomatic communication. However, if memories of those times are invoked, similar examples spring to mind, such as the bassist of Steam Roller, who gave up life as a rocker to work in the Croatian Embassy in Ljubljana, or Nebojša Krstić, who went from singer and guitarist of popular group Idoli (Idols) to become an advisor to Serbian President Tadić; or Aleksandar Kravić - a former bassist of the Balašević Group and now advisor to the president of the Vojvodina Parliament.

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We need young, fresh forces and ideas, because it has become evident that the same people who were formulating obviously unsuccessful policies cannot be the leaders of the future

Davor Vidiš Consul General of the Republic of Croatia in Subotica

By Katarina Ivanović; Photo: Nikola Tumbas

Croatian ex-rock musician, Davor Vidiš, followed in the footsteps of his former fellow rockers from Serbia, who abandoned their careers wreaking havoc on the music scene of the former Yugoslavia to pursue careers in the diplomatic service. Abandoning his drumsticks in the name of regional diplomacy, Vidiš served briefly in Belgrade, made a short detour into Slovakia and then took up the post of Consul General of the Republic of Croatia in Subotica - a post he has held since 2004 44

CorD | January 2006

"We probably didn't realise how good and how important the rock-'n'-roll and the new wave scene were at that time", says Vidiš. Between the ages of 18 and 28, playing the drums also had some practical value for him. "Me and my girl-friend at that time, who is now my wife, left our parents' homes and started living together at the age of 18. Since the instrument I played was a deficient one, I saw playing as a way of making ends meet while studying".

During that period Vidiš recorded an album with the "Film" band, before collaborating with the "Other Way" and Boris Novković. "It was a nice experience, with many friends and much travelling", recalls Vidiš.

It is evident that playing didn't take too much of his time and energy, since he managed to graduate from three faculties: Cartography at the Faculty of Geodesy, journalism at the Faculty of Political Sciences and pedagogy at the Faculty or Philosophy. He reluctantly talks about this triple academic achievement, explaining that the only reason he finished cartography was his lack of strength and courage to discontinue his studies. What he was really interested in were, in fact, political studies. However, the way of life he had grown accustomed to was suddenly interrupted in 1991. "We all had to grow up when we received calls for military service. But then a regular job and a tie ensued", says Vidiš with a smile. "Changing sides" over time, he slowly transformed from a rock musician into a member of the theatre audience.

He explains that he entered the world of diplomacy indirectly, as the Serbian-Croatian issue was at first treated in Croatia as an internal policy matter, and only started being considered as an

Society - People external policy issue in 1993. "It is little known that our two countries established diplomatic ties more than a decade ago", he says. "The first inter-state meeting between Serbia and Croatia was held in September 1992. In 1994, the diplomatic missions of the two countries were opened, and next year we will observe the tenth anniversary of mutual recognition", says Vidiš.

Relations between Serbia and Croatia have been at the centre of his diplomatic activities, and he has been involved in this co-operation from its very start, as a staff member of the Croatian representation in Serbia in the period that he calls his "first Belgrade life". That period lasted until 1999, when he was transferred to Bratislava, where he was posted for three years.

However, this "exit" from the Balkans was only temporary.

Soon he was transferred back to the Department of the Neighbouring Eastern Countries and subsequently asked to take over the Croatian embassy in Belgrade until the arrival of the ambassador Tonči Staničić. Following Staničić's arrival,

Logically contemplating, conflict was the last thing that our two countries had a reason for, considering that our common interests are so strong Vidiš headed for Subotica in 2004. That was, as he comments, his first assignment in a smaller town.

He believes that he and his family - his wife and three children - have managed to organise their life in a satisfactory manner. At a professional level, he is primarily trying to realise a concept of a consular representation that will identify and foster the economic interests aimed at boosting co-operation between the two countries. "Trade is like water, it always finds a way. You may be surprised to discover that more than 100 Croatian firms are active in Serbia. I travel a lot to the seaside and there I often see vehicle registration plates from all parts of Serbia. One can also find interesting products from here in Croatian shops, stresses Vidiš. "We see our interest in increasing the border crossings in both directions as much as possible."

Whilst talking, he is sitting at a table on which there is a ceramic bowl with a design matching the colours of the "Bajadera" chocolates placed in it. Vidiš remembers the time when he used to bring these chocolates to Serbia at the requests of his friends, as well as "Cedevita" and wines, while taking back to Croatia the "Honey Hearts", Jaffa" and "Munchmallow" that his children cannot have enough of even nowadays.

Jokingly, he adds that already at that time it was a matter of

IMMIGRANT WORKER

Davor Vidiš and his wife originate from Pelješac, and Vidiš's wife and three children return to the seaside as soon as the school year ends, while the Consul tries his best to join them as frequently as works permits. He says that diplomats are like immigrant workers who also need contact with their place of origin. "I have a family photo at home, showing my great-grandparents, who I call "my Topalović family" (a reference to the cult Serbian film "The Marathon Family"). Precisely because of the fact that we move so often and regularly have to change our place of residence, we give such a high value to those moments when we can reconnect ourselves to our home country", Vidiš concludes.

Looking to the future: “young, fresh forces and ideas” are needed intelligence to determine when the two countries would establish mutual economic relations for the benefit of both nations.

"Contemplated logically, a conflict is the last thing that our two countries had a reason for, since we have such strong common interests", he says. "Some analysts claim that an agreement could have been reached as early as 1986, [when the first future status talks were held in the then Yugoslavia], but there was nobody to negotiate it", adds Vidiš.

Focusing his thoughts on the future of the region, he says: "When I ask people here, from all national and religious backgrounds, to describe how they imagine this region in 10 years, they struggle to come up with an answer. That's why I think we need young, fresh forces and ideas, because it has become evident that the same people who were formulating obviously unsuccessful policies cannot be the leaders of the future."

Vidiš says that during his stay in Serbia he has not experienced unfriendly behaviour. He believes that it is important to economise energy between the two countries by concentrating on practical economic issues and increasing mutual cooperation. He believes that the two countries have adopted a good approach in deciding that no mutual protests should be filed upon incidents of "stadium pathology" as he calls them (the first tensions between Croatia and Serbia that preceded the civil war of the '90s occurred at a football stadium, while several more recent incidents have also been provoked by football clubs' fans of the two states), since the states are not responsible for them.

As an undertone to all that, Vidiš says that one can discern a strong belief that Europe is a "contagious disease" and that this region will gradually join the Union, with the minorities of the two countries representing an important segment of this geo-political puzzle. All the foreign delegations that visit either of the two countries pose the same question: "How do you get along with your neighbours in the region?"

For the Croatian Consul, an ideal response to this question could be the degree of his own, private integration into the way of life and the milieu of this area. The only thing he misses, he says, is the sea. In order to satisfy this nostalgia, at least partly, he has decorated all the walls within the consular building starting from the entry hall, along the residence and up to the official premises - with artistic photographs featuring the Adriatic Sea and all its numerous nuances of blue. • CorD | January 2006

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Society - Living with disability

BATTLING FOR EQUALITY

By Aleksandra Sekulić-Stojanović; Photo: Jelena Mandić

There are a mere 300 disabled persons studying in Serbia's higher education system at present. However, this paltry figure would have been much higher if handicapped would-be students had been provided with more chances to enrol in university and study normally, despite their special needs. As it is, faculties, classrooms, lecture theatres, toilets and canteens often lack the necessary features facilitating the disabled and are, thus inaccessible to handicapped people.

Moreover, intolerant professors are often hostile towards handicapped students 46

CorD | January 2006

oran Pavlović was seven years old and about to begin primary school. Being a bright boy, young Goran passed all but one of the obligatory pre-school tests with flying colours. The one he fialed was the medical test. Because of his infant paralysis, Goran was classed as a special needs child and ordered to attend a 'special’ primary school.

Due to their fears about the special school’s academic standards, Goran's parents vehemently protested to the authorities that their son was infinitely capable of studying alongside the able bodied pupils of the regular primary school, as his disability in no way affected his intellect. Eventually the education authority relented and Goran was allowed to attend regular school. He went on to graduate as the best pupil of his generation.

"If I had been a pupil of the 'special’ primary school, I would have been given an extra handicap. There is still so much prejudice in the education system. Handicapped children are often categorised as special needs and sent to 'special' schools just because of their physical condition. Regular schools are open only for the bravest handicapped children, supported by their parents and friends," says Goran.

G

Society - Living with disability Now Goran is 27-year-old student of Belgrade University's Medical Faculty. He wants to be a surgeon one day, though many people still ask him how he will manage to stand by the surgery table. Unlike many disabled students, Goran was sure that he should be given the same opportunity to be educated as every other human being. In order to encourage other handicapped students to stand up for their rights, Goran and his friends established "The Association of Students with Disabilities" in Belgrade five years ago.

The aims of this organisation are to raise public awareness, fight prejudices and discriminatory practices, ensure full respect is given to handicapped people and that their rights are embedded in the country's legislation.

According to World Health Organisation statistics, handicapped people comprise an average of 10 per cent of any given society, and two per cent of all students. In contrast to these global norms, in Belgrade just 300 of the 80,000 registered university students are handicapped - representing around 0.37%.

In Serbia it is common for a disability to be seen as shameful. Indeed, disabled people often hide their real physical condition, fearing the possible reactions of friends and neighbours.

Thus, they often decide to lock themselves away at home, socially invisible, unwilling to continue furthering their education.

"Handicapped people are not visible in Serbia. It is said that there are fewer handicapped people here than in Sweden, but that's not true. In Sweden, disabled people live and work normally, and everything is accessible to them. There are far more handicapped people in this country, but they are invisible. Just a small number of them decide to study, because there is lack of support in the society and government; inaccessible faculties, lecture halls, laboratories, professors' cabinets and teaching material, such as books in Braille or audio resources. Once a handicapped person becomes aware of the bad situation and the barriers they have to overcome to achieve a full education, they usual decide to give up," says Goran.

One of the most common causes of discrimination in Serbia is the mistaken belief that invalidity is an illness, as opposed to a physical condition caused by an illness or birth defect. In Serbia, disabled people are often said to be ill or weak. They are often considered second-class citizens; humans not worthy of being classed as equal to other citizens.

Many handicapped students have experienced problems with their professors and faculty peers, and a majority of them have abandoned their studies. An anecdote told by the Association of Students with Disabilities is one in which a girl was

A young girl utilises Belgrade’s paving stones for the visually impaired

The survey also showed that none of the entrance halls, classrooms, libraries, staff lobbies, administration areas, toilets and lifts of any Belgrade faculty have been sufficiently adapted to allow the complete access of wheelchair-bound students. Nor are there signs that adaptations have been made to ease the university access of the visually impaired.

After analysing the survey's negative results, the management board of the Association of Students with Disabilities were surprised to find that 77 per cent of respondents said that they have never been "It is said that there are fewer handicapped people here discriminated against by university teaching than in Sweden, but that's not true. In Sweden, disabled or administration staff.

"One of our friends said she had never been people live and work normally, and everything is accessi- discriminated against. Even when we reminded ble to them. There are far more handicapped people in her that she had personally been told not to apply to study the English language, but rather this country, but they are invisible." at the Faculty of Philology, simply because of asked by one of Belgrade University's professors of Italian not the number of stairs involved, we had to ask her whether or to escort her handicapped sister to classes anymore because her not she considered that as discrimination.

"Disabled people are highly tolerant. If we're kicked out of Braille note-taking machine was too loud. The professor even refused to allow the use of an alternative audio machine, for a restaurant in Novi Sad, if we're expelled from a faculty, if we're forbidden from participating in the quiz 'Alone against fear that the student would illegally publish notes.

The Association of Students with Disabilities recently carried everyone' on National Television, we wouldn't consider that out a survey of its members to ascertain, amongst other things, as discrimination. Similarly, we would be loath to say that the what disabled students feel would make their faculties more lack of books in Braille and the lack of sign-language interaccessible. Of those polled, 55 per cent said practical alterations preters is discriminatory.

"The right to be educated is one of the most important to ease physical access was the most important, 16 per cent said that faculties should be adapted to suit the needs of the visual- human rights we want to have, regardless of whether that's the ly impaired, and four per cent said that better overall communi- right to study handicrafts or take a PhD", explains Goran, who is president of the Association of Students with Disabilities. cation would make their faculties more accessible.

CorD | January 2006

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Society - Living with disability

Inclusive education has been one of the best legislative solutions in countries within the European Union, where disabled people are given the chance to be educated at regular primary schools, secondary schools, and universities. For example, Italy set up its inclusive education under their Law on Education.

There are no specialised schools in Italy, so even children with more complicated disabilities attend regular schools and universities. That's why a person can be raised and socialised in a group with healthy friends, who are also thought to understand what a handicap is.

Inclusive practices are also A Guide dog: a rare sight on the streets of Belgrade evident in the U.S., where parents have been known to enrol their able-bodied children into schools beyond their local catchment Damjan Tatić, UN expert for handicapped peoples' rights area simply because they had heard, for example, that a blind and one of the co-authors of the pending Law against girl studied in the school they opted for and they wanted their Discrimination, emphasises the importance of this law. children to grow up with a blind peer in order for them to better Insisting that there are still prejudices and unfair treatunderstand disabilities. ment of handicapped people, Tatić hopes that new law will Serbia has been facing legislative barriers as far as handi- be adopted in next few months: capped people are concerned, but then the September 2005 "The most important value of the Law against discriminaEducation Law included - for the first time in the history of the tion is preventing discriminative attitudes towards people country's education system - a category on "handicapped stu- with invalidity. The law gives the list of special cases and dents". According to this Law, faculties are obliged to intro- examples when a handicapped person is discriminated duce alternative examinations for disabled students; to include against by public administration, employers, medical staff, them in various teaching activities and to finance the equip- teachers, or family; inaccessibility of objects or services and ment for their studies. Another law under preparation will public transportation. There are special mechanisms, which allow handicapped students to have official representatives in will provide handicapped people court protection when they student parliaments and conferences. are discriminated against.

"Sanctions are necessary, but we According to the country's new Labour Law - currently under have to do our best to raise other peoSerbian Parliamentary revision - every employer will be ple's awareness. They often discrimiobliged to hire a certain percentage of handicapped persons. nate against handicapped people subconsciously, for example, they someIf an employer refuses to do so, it will be considered as an act times wonder why they should build a of discrimination...extreme cases of discrimination could result ramp in front of their restaurant, when they could carry a handicapped person in a maximum of five years imprisonment. inside, or they could serve them outside, Despite the introduction of legislation to ease the lives of dis- in a restaurant's garden. No, that's simply not the soluabled students, graduates still find it more difficult to acquire tion," says Mr. Tatić. appropriate post-graduation employment. Despite proving themA unique model for the protection, education, and selves to be intellectually capable of pursuing a career in highly- employment of handicapped persons still doesn't exist in this skilled, highly-trained fields, disabled graduates, on the whole, country. Thus their right to be educated and equally are still trained to be telephonists, masseurs or hairdressers. employed is endangered. Only 13 per cent of disabled people According to the country's new Labour Law - currently are employed and 85 per cent of handicapped people don't under Serbian Parliamentary revision - every employer will be even have the chance to study. obliged to hire a certain percentage of handicapped persons. If Being in the community with other people, being eduan employer refuses to do so, it will be considered as an act of cated in regular schools and faculties, being employed withdiscrimination and sanctions of between 5,000 and 500,000 in the profession they are educated for is the only way to dinars will be imposed on companies. According to the legisla- have a healthy society. Only then would such people be protion, extreme cases of discrimination could result in a maximum vided with the opportunity to live completely independentof five years imprisonment. ly and achieve social equality. •

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Advertorial

BUSINESS PORTAL LAUNCHED New web portal, Biz me, launched by the BETA News Agency in conjunction with McCann-Erickson, is a high-speed, interactive business news gateway service for business people. According to BETA's editor-in-chief, Dragan Janjić, "we each do our own part of the whole job.

We, Beta, produce the news [for the portal] because we think we are one of the better new sources. On the other side, our partner [McCann-Erickson] handles the marketing and distribution" By: Rade Repija he basic premise leading to the creation of the Biz me portal was the estimation that the accelerated flow of information has saturated new media outlets with irrelevant, and often inaccurate, information. Thus, considering the scope of business and information-handler interests, coupled with the need for rapid, industry or sector specific insight, Biz me was launched.

Biz me produces two daily electronic issues, at 9am and 3pm. The morning issue lists announcements of the main events of the day and details key economic news that has come to light since the previous instalment. The second issue includes news updates on the day’s unfolding happenings.

Biz me's format includes a homepage displaying headlines and summaries of all news stories, allowing users to review the most relevant stories in a matter of minutes. The fact that Serbia's largest news agency, BETA, selects the news is, in itself, a guarantee that the user will receive the most important, proficiently prepared and summarised news regarding SCG, as well as receiving it first.

This fully interactive service enables users to pose questions for a scheduled press conference; questions that BETA journalists may not have otherwise asked. However, questions cannot convene professional journalistic standards.

The portal is provided in both Serbian and English, giving an equal service to both domestic companies and foreign investors operating, or seeking to operate, in the State Union.

The huge comparative advantage of Biz me over its webportal rivals is that it provides today's news today, breaking the accepted 'newspaper' norm of such electronic bulletins to publish yesterday's news. The aim of this service is to utilise the advantage of agency newswire coverage, which means that the user receives the information before it is covered on either radio or TV news.

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"This is a unique service; there is no similar product on our market", says Janjić. "BETA did not offer this kind of product previously because, as a news agency, we lacked a strong marketing strategy. Co-operation with McCann-Erickson Public Relations was, therefore, a natural step.

"With this co’operation we have utilised the practical advantages of both companies. The plan is to gradually extend the circle of users, and as our product gains a strong foothold, we will expand on the market", Janjić explains.

The fact that business operators and media professionals themselves define what is of importance to them, the possibility is being made available to extend the Biz me service to news and content which is beyond the scope of BETA's main service.

Noting that, for instance, "any given item of news may be of little interest to media clients, but crucial to business decisions, and vice versa", Janjic announces that, on the basis of research, the Biz me product will be modified at a later stage to cater for precise client demands.

"I think that we, at BETA, are capable of producing - and our partner of distributing - a quality product", said the BETA chief, hastening to add that his agency will remain focused on its agency services.

The first users of the portal are expected to be banks and larger companies. Janjić believes the service will prove invaluable to foreign companies, though they will also target other business operators: "We will seek potential clients among small and medium-sized enterprises for whom such announcements, and the possibility of posing questions, are important. Our pricing structure [€99 for the regular issue and €199 for the interactive issue] is also intended to attract smaller businesses." • CorD | January 2006

49

Society - Phenomena It can prove hard to find decent clothing in Belgrade. Not because there's a lack of retail outlets, but rather because the most elite shopping districts are awash with tracksuits, sweatshirts and, more than anything, training shoes. Perhaps the proliferation of trainers in Belgrade's high street boutiques speaks volumes about the spirit of contemporary Belgrade. Or perhaps it just tells us that Belgrade's 'yuppies' are unable to compete with an 'underclass' that still makes up much of the Belgrade 'upper-class' and has forced the sports shoe to become a symbol of social status

…ON MY FAITH IN

GOD AND REEBOK! Ivica Petrović; Photo: Stanislav Milojković he Milošević years will long be remembered as a ena have changed with them: some have modified and gone period when many sub-cultures were spawned. In through metamorphoses, just as democracy has replaced a particular, that fateful decade saw the births of turbo dictatorship. But one phenomenon stubbornly refuses to folk - that peculiar mélange of Turkish tunes and urban yield its grip: the total domination of sports clothes in the beats - and so-called 'Diesel' fashion - characterised by shops and on the high streets of Serbian towns and cities. trainers, tracksuit tops tucked into jeans, (preferably made One need not perform masses of broad based research to

by Diesel) thick, gold dog collar neck chains, crew cuts and determine that this type of clothing dominates the city, and one an inclination towards brawling and random shootings could quite safely wager that the first or second shop to open in (preferably while partying in riverside raft clubs). any newly constructed shopping centre will be a Sports shoe Belgrade's generation of war-time teenagers has grown up to usher in a new These people, whose only justifications for being media idols cultural code, one dominated by the is that they have been shot-at several times and don't feel the macho look and an attitude to match the need to remove their sports shoes when they lay on silk tough surroundings. Belgrade developed into a war time enigma that was all but sheets, have become the trendsetters of Serbian society. impossible for visitor's to comprehend: instead of shop. Both city centre retail zones, and suburban shopping Belgrade's youth becoming depressed and forlorn, the city malls are overrun with bright, rubbery, multicoloured shops, revelled in the mayhem and life, as one turbo-folk song offering row upon row of spotlessly moulded, stupidly overaptly noted, moved "at 200km-an-hour". priced trainers. All in all, one may find it difficult to find a stylIn an attempt to somehow define the values of wartime ish suit or a pari of elegant shoes, unless they happen to be Belgrade, one of the city's numerous foreign journalists made by Reebok, Addidas, Sergio Tacchini and the like. summed up the sentiment in a newspaper headline which Famous Belgrade fashion designer, Zvonko Marković's read: "In God, Reebok and our Mother Land [we trust]!" simple explanation is that one won't get far in Belgrade Of course, times have changed in Serbia, and the phenomwearing elegant, shiny shoes:

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Society - Phenomena "The literal lie of the land and filth-strewn streets, that sees one forced to cross open fields to catch a bus (an uncomfortable, overcrowded bus that is a story all its own), makes it necessary for people to wear clothing that facilitates the contrasting terrains and environments that are facts of life here."

Marković continues: "I recently travelled to Paris on business and found that there was nowhere [in the urban city] where I could even get dirty".

However, rather than being merely a practical adaptation to physical surroundings, sports clothing has undoubtedly become a status symbol, dictated by the media and worn flauntingly by those loosely referred to as 'celebrities' in Belgrade.

All that Serbia's young people could glean about surviving and succeeding in transition is that, for a start, its essential to somehow collect €100 for a good pair of sports shoes.

The prices of sports shoes in Belgrade's many sporting goods shops can exceed €200, though the most commonly sold price bracket is from €50 to €100 - at least good week's domestic wages. Obviously, this is a lot of money for local standards, but peace-seeking parents somehow manage to appease their trend-following teenagers. And the teenagers are duly grateful - it's no secret that the price and make of one's trainers can have a dramatic influence on one's popularity rating in school. No wonder then that kids are prepared to beg that little bit harder to replace their lonely schoolroom bench for a seat at the table of the 150-Euro-trainers wearers.

Marković insists that the sports clothes phenomenon is common to poor communities: "the lack of a viable alterna-

tive is the main culprit for this state of affairs and lack of tradition. In certain circles, a life dream can include having a tailor-made suit or Bally designer shoes, because they represent a name, tradition and such. Here, unfortunately, there is no such trend. If you look closely, you will see that Belgrade lacks any real jewellers. Why; because there are few real customers for such a shop. It is then that we realise that we're talking about a very poor, isolated environment where the dream of fine attire as a status symbol equates to a €100-worth of Puma trainers."

The sportswear trend in Serbia is, in some ways, inextricably linked to the underworld. Leather jackets and dark suits have long ceased to be the attire of choice for high profile criminals and 'controversial businessman'. Rather, these shady types don sportswear and bright trainers.

When the new 'media idols' of the gloomy war years hit the headlines with their public antics and murderous acts, these men, dubbed 'Knights of the Street' by the media, were usually arrested, shot or randomly photographed adorned with thick gold chains and wearing tracksuits.

The domestic hop-hop scene also glamorises the get-ups, including shots in their videos of sportswear-clad notorious gang members, even those accused of murdering Serbian PM Đinđić. All these individuals have been photographed basking in the five-star hotels of exotic locations, enjoying themselves in luxurious beds…with sports shoes on their feet!

These people, whose only justifications for being media idols is that they have been shot-at several times and don't feel the need to remove their sports shoes when they lay on silk sheets, have become the trendsetters of Serbian society.

All that Serbia's young people could glean about surviving and succeeding in transition is that, for a start, its essential to somehow collect €100 for a good pair of sports shoes. •

Society - Phenomena

PRESTIGE, AND HOW TO WEAR IT?

Source: GfK Belgrade, Omnibus survey December 2005 More than half of citizens consider brand name trainers a matter of prestige in Serbia. All age-groups share that view, but the age bracket between 20 and 29 seem to consider sports shoes a matter of necessity, rather than a fashion item. Furthermore, although trainers are consider as the main item of recognition in society, more than three quarters of those polled (aged 15+) would not spend more than €50 for a pair.

By watching various media, or simply wondering around the streets, one may say that this nation is definitely paying a lot of attention to fashion, and is trying to keep up with the latest trends. Are we successful in that effort? Do we recognise elegant from casual? How original are we? Moreover, what are our standpoints when it comes to fancy trainers? How much are we ready to pay for that object of prestige?

This December, within the regular Omnibus survey on a national, representative, average-income sample, GfK Belgrade tried to answer these questions.

GfK asked citizens whether they consider trainers a matter of prestige and how much are they ready to pay for a brand name pair?

According to the results, the majority of SCG citizens (57%) consider brand name sports shoes a matter of some prestige. A considerable number of them (20%) believe that brand name sneakers are, to a greater extent or exclusively, a matter of a prestige.

GfK found that men and women share the same values on trainers. However, differences are significant in terms of age and regional variables. For teenagers aged 15-19, brand name sneakers are a serious matter of prestige (61.5%). However, of those aged 20-29, a slight majority does not consider such footwear as being important to their status (only 48.5% consider them to be an object of class). Opinions change again with age, but some things don't change too much: the majority of GfK's middle-aged and elderly respondents believe that fancy trainers are an important status item.

In terms of geographical differences, it appears that residents of eastern and western Serbia pay more attention to their trainers than their countrymen in Belgrade, Vojvodina and Montenegro: 53.4% of Belgraders consider brand name trainers a status item, while this total is much higher in eastern 52

CorD | January 2006

Serbia (61.6%) - a poorer, less developed area of the country - and even higher in western Serbia (64.6%) Is there a difference between how we value brand name trainers and how much we are prepared to pay for them? Definitely, yes. More than 3/4 of citizens are ready to pay about 4,500 dinars (50 euros). If the brand is a household name, we would pay between a €100 and €200. The considerable gap between opinions and wallets is a combination of low living standards and a profusion of brand-name copies available on every other street corner.

When it comes to breaking the bank, both the sexes are prepared to splash out on fancy clobber, but more women than men (81.8% - 72.4%) are prepared to spend more than €50 on a pair of trainers.

Age again becomes a factor in determining budgets: teenagers from 15 to 19 are more eager to spend up to €110 on a pair of trainers (5.4%), than those aged 20 to 29 (2.8%). Older respondents tended to be even more generous, although this is perhaps because they are more prepared to buy trendy trainers for their children than for themselves.

Although the residents of eastern Serbia put the greatest stock in brand name clothing, they are the least prepared to splash out (85.9% wouldn't pay more than €50 for a pair). Elsewhere, people from western Serbia and Vojvodina are more prepared to spend in excess of €100 on trainers (4 & 4.9% respectively) than those polled in Belgrade (1.2%). •

Society - Science

SERBIAN STARGAZERS Last year marked the first time in Serbia that the telescopes which arrived were not provided as a by-product of war reparations. These telescopes have been earmarked for use by the new hilltop observatory on Vidojevica, near Prokuplje. However, they will not be installed before next year because thieves recently stole all the observatory building material Miloš Jovanović; Photo: Jelena Mandić ext spring, Serbia's latest observatory is to be completed on Vidojevica hill, 1,115 metres above sea level. Until then, Serbia's top astronomers will continue to use the existing Zvezdara facility, with its two new telescopes, which the Serbian state purchased a year ago - marking their first such purchases for over 70 years. The installing of the new telescopes heralded the birth of a new era for Serbia's oldest astronomic institute - Astronomy Observatory in Belgrade.

Director of the Zvezdara-based observatory, Dr. Zoran Knežević, says: "the smaller telescope has a lens 40cm in diameter, and the other, newer one, has better characteristics and a lens of 60cm in diameter".

The new hardware, the biggest telescopic reflector in the country, arrived thanks largely to the shrewdness of domestic

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practitioners and the Serbian characteristic developed over years of impoverishment and shortages in the field of astronomy.

"Astronomy is not a cheap science to practise and our possibilities are…well, we all know what our possibilities are: less than modest. However, we can't simply cross our arms and do nothing," says Knežević.

"We bought these telescopes with Russian optics - which are still the best in the world - but we couldn't rely on the telescopes' mechanisms and electronics. Thus we took German mechanisms and American electronics. Then we took these components and assembled a new telescope that almost totally satisfies our expectations of quality".

In order to fully utilise the new telescopes, it was necessary to find an ideal location to install them, as the Zvezdara site

Society - Science does not fulfil the minimum conditions necessary to successfully research the stars. When it was first built in the 1930s, the Zvezdara observatory was a perfect hilltop site on the outskirts of the city. However, Belgrade has grown substantially since that time and Zvezdara is now a fully urbanised area - the ambient glow of which does not lend itself to observations of the night sky. Moverover, the skyscrapers and aerial transmitters neighbouring the Zvezdara observatory further hinder the functioning of this, the oldest scientific institute in the country.

Explaining the shortcomings of the Zvezdara site, Knežević says: "lighting is a big problem, noise distracts us and radio signals greatly disturb our sensitive instruments. Therefore we were forced to scout a new location to build a brand new observatory to house our new telescopes.

"Travelling the length and breadth of Serbia, we found a few good locations. However, we cannot just put a telescope anywhere: the spot has to be sufficiently high, with a high average of clear weather days, low air traffic and low humidity, as well as satisfying other criteria. Some of the best sites in Serbia have no infrastructure - no roads, electricity or water - and so, when all factors had been considered, we opted for Vidojevica, near Prokuplje [southeast Serbia] or, to be more precise, the peak of Vidojevica hill - more commonly known as 'Bandera' (pole / streetlight)", says Knežević.

The site, situated at a height of 1,155m ASL, is the former location of a now-abandoned military facility. As such, the required infrastructure, including a tarmac road, was already in place. Local self-management structures also aided the construction of the new observatory.

Astronomy in Serbia dates back to 1887, when the country's first observatory was founded, initially in the Slavija district, and then, later, on the site of today's Karađorđević Park - where Serbia's astronomy, seismology and meteorology cen-

DEFENDING THE PLANET

Once the new telescopes are in place and the new observatory is up and running, Serbia will be able to take a greater part in crucial observation research aimed at identifying potential hazards originating in outer space.

Knežević, a member of one of two world teams tasked with defending the planet against meteor strikes, says: "at the moment it is believed that there are around 1,200 asteroids with a diameter in excess of 1km moving towards the Earth's vicinity. To date, the projected courses of 800 of them have been plotted - the results of which are not threatening to our planet. It remains to plot the courses of more than 400 asteroids by 2008.

Only then will the situation be clear.

"We recently discovered that one such huge asteroid with a possible diameter of 1.37km - was heading Earthwards and could strike the plant in 2029. The sighting prompted all astronomers involved in the defence project to closely follow the asteroid's progress. However, after a few days we came up with newer, more reliable data and found that the asteroid will certainly pass our planet harmlessly".

top of the range telescope: €2million, Serbia’s entire science budget: €2million

tres were jointly located. Considering Serbia's social conditions - then as now - the birth of astronomy in the country was less than modest.

The observatory that today stands on Zvezdara was built in 1932, and for the past 73 years Serbia's astronomers have been observing the universe through telescopes that Serbia received as First World War reparations from the Kaiser's Germany.

"These were excellent telescopes in their time," explains Knežević. "When they were dismantled in Germany and transferred to Serbia, they represented the cream of technology; the best telescopes available - produced by world renowned manufacturer Carl Zeiss.

"The Zvezdara observatory has 13 old German refracting telescopes, which are more or less obsolete. As such, new equipment has been long awaited impatiently."

Proof of the genuine quality of the WWI telescopes can be found in the fact that invading Germans intended to take them back to their country during WWII, despite them already being over 20-years-old.

"The then director of the observatory, Vojislav Mišković, was aware of the Germans' intentions but, thanks to his persistence and inventiveness, he managed to keep hold of the telescopes. It is hard to imagine what would have become of this observatory had he failed to save the telescopes", Knežević tells CorD. The new modified telescope, with its Russian, German and American components, cost a total of around €82,000.

Interestingly, the price of a top-of-the-range 1.5m lens-diameter telescope is around €2million - the exact annual sum paid for all investments in Serbian scientific research equipment in 2003! • CorD | January 2006

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Society - Christmas Bazaar

A FEAST FOR THE EYES By Žarka Radoja; Photo: Jelena Mandić

Participants from more than 30 countries showcased a wide variety of goods that sold out in a matter of hours at the International Womens’' Centre's Christmas Bazaar in Belgrade's Hotel Yugoslavia on 27th November. The event's total revenue of around €55,000, along with funds raised from lottery tickets, is to be donated to socially endangered groups in Serbia & Montenegro e are nuts for selling these T-shirts at 300 dinars a piece, but they all have to go!"; "Buy a book and get chocolate for free!" This is how honorary traders attempted to lure customers and clear their stands of merchandise at this November's Fifth International Humanitarian Bazaar.

The Humanitarian Bazaar was organised by the Women's International Centre (IWC) in Serbia & Montenegro: a non profit organisation comprising expatriates, diplomats, and members of foreign companies. Established in 1998, the IWC currently has 250 members from 55 countries.

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The total revenue generated by the Bazaar is used to aid Roma children, children with special needs, homeless people, victims of domestic violence and many other people in need.

Karina Leibaut, the President of the International Women's Centre in SCG and wife of Belgian Ambassador to SCG, Luc Leibaut, officially opened the Bazaar. Visitors were obviously very eager to start their shopping spree, as they queued up an hour before the event was scheduled to open.

'Traders' from over 30 countries with embassies in Serbia & Montenegro packed their stands with a variety of interesting items for sale: from food and toys to footwear and hi-tech devices.

Women from France, Great Britain, Indonesia, Germany, Turkey and other countries embellished the event with specialties of their national cuisine. Belgraders had the unique opportunity to taste genuine homemade Turkish delight, German and British jams, French mustard, world famous Belgian chocolate and other delicious goodies.

For the modest price of 100 dinars, visitors were given a mini-trip around the globe, while a 150-dinar entry ticket put them in contention for a trip to London, Paris or Tunisia, or hundreds of other prizes that were handed out to lucky winners of the Bazaar's lottery.

"Preparations for this event have lasted the whole year. We looked for sponsors, designed the stands and did a lot of other things to attract as many enterprises and visitors as we could. We distribute the revenue through NGOs to those who need money the most. Last year we gathered 50,000 euros. Since more than 100 sponsors supported the event this year and the public turnout was also high, we have managed to collect about

Society - Christmas Bazaar €55,000", said Bazaar coordinator Mary Hlady.

The number of sponsors supporting the event has increased each year. The bustle and crowds of visitors from early morning hours, the diversity of goods on offer and affordable prices, promised a good opportunity for profit.

"I set some money aside to buy something for each member of my family and my best friend. I couldn't find many of the things that are showcased at the Bazaar in Belgrade shops", Petrija Ivančević told CorD magazine on her way out of the Bazaar with her daughter and shopping bags bulging with goods. "I bought French red wine, some German cookies to see how they taste, jewellery as New Year's gifts for my grandchildren…Something for everyone."

Visitors strolled from one country and one continent to another, carried by Christmas tunes played over the sound system. The jubilant atmosphere of upcoming holidays was rounded off by a merry Father Christmas, who handed out sweets from his big red sack to the visiting children.

At the Dutch stand, merry saleswomen danced to almost every tune, celebrating a job well done. It took only an hour for the crowd to clear their stand of its merchandise - tulip seeds, jewellery, candles, consumer electronics…

The same kind of excitement was evident at other stands.

French wine and champagne were sold by the magnum, while the cheese went to the early worms at the Bazaar.

"We had over 50 wheels of cheese, sausages and some 200 bottles of white and red wine, champagne, various pâté…it was all gone in a jiffy. We made Christmas door wreaths with details we brought from

VULNERABLE GROUPS BENEFIT AGAIN

Funds raised at the Christmas Bazaar will be used to educate the Roma community and support the victims of domestic violence, outcasts without refugee status, people with special needs, homeless people and problematic juveniles.

In 2005, the funds raised were sufficient to buy an incubator for the hospital in Prijepolje, pillows and blankets for women and childrenč and to help victims of domestic violence gain accommodation in help centres across the country. The money was also used to print 10,000 brochures entitled "Stop Violence - Break the Silence!"; five centres for refugees and IDPs were stocked up with firewood and basic hygiene products.

Specialised computers were distributed to institutes for persons with special needs in Belgrade and Topola.

France", said a smiling Catherine Savić, president of Belgrade Accueil, who returned to the Bazaar for the third consecutive year. Belgrade Accueil is a similar organisation to the IWC, but is much younger and comprises French expatriates (60 members at present) who regularly gather to enjoy tea, paint on porcelain and visit museums.

"The crowd gets bigger each year and that is great.

Belgraders are getting used to starting their shopping for Christmas and New Year presents at the end of November. On the other hand, the heightened interest in the Bazaar has led us to form better offers. We have added L'Oreal and Rimmel cosmetics and other goods to our stands this year."

As we spoke, a large crowd gathered in front of the stage.

"One hundred euros for a jersey with the autographs of the entire Spanish national basketball team! Who will bid more?

Going once, going twice! Sold for 110 euros!" boomed the auctioneer's voice. Jersey's with the name and autograph of popular Serbian footballer Savo Milošević and some of his teammates went for 60 euros.

Visitors grew impatient. With lottery tickets grasped in their hands, they peered to see if the numbers drawn matched their own. Some were overjoyed at winning dinners, travel breaks, gift packages, while others crumpled up their tickets, hoping for better luck next time.

"Nothing, although I bought three tickets. And I already dreamt up a fabulous New Year's Eve in Paris", complained Marija Prčić, a student from Subotica, standing alongside her friends at the Croatian stand, which she livened up dressed in a traditional 19th century costume.

After the lottery there was a genuine shopping stampede.

Almost everything was sold. Prices dropped, the shoppers bought even that which they hadn't come for, simply because they couldn't resist Italian footwear at 1,000 dinars a pair. The price of Phillips hi-tech speakers dropped from 18,000 to 10,000 dinars. The goods that remained were packed into boxes and returned, but they will find their place in gift packages that will be distributed to children's foster homes and orphanages nationwide. And these same people will gather next year and try to brighten up the Christmas and New Year holidays of those who will be touched the most by this caring gesture. • CorD | January 2006

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Culture - Art The aesthetic beauty and literary qualities of the Cyrillic handwritten Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (Mirolsav's Gospel) has led to the book being officially protected and classified in UNESCO's World Remembrance list. Along with this veritable gem, we recommend that CorD readers devote their attention to some other pearls of Serbian literature. One of them, the cover for the shroud of Saint Knez Lazar's relics, upon which the nun Jefimija embroidered her "Praise to Saint Knez Lazar" in 1402, is exhibited in the Serbian Orthodox Church Museum. Jefimija's prose on this embroidery were one of the most well noticed exponents in the exhibition, "Byzantium faith and power" in the Metropolitan Museum in New York last spring

By: Sonja Čirić; Photo: Stanislav Milojković

ast summer, the oldest and most valuable Serbian book ever written in the most beautiful handwritten Cyrillic alphabet, Miroslav's Gospel, was added to UNESCO's list of World Remembrance. This list includes 120 priceless works from across the globe, which were selected because they "document in the best way one of the segments of human creativity of their time". Such recognition on the part of UNESCO was the motive for the National Museum, in November 2005, to open up to the public a special room in which the book is kept. Over the ten-day period of the exhibition, seven thousand people saw Miroslav's Gospel.

Here, in addition to the beauty of the Cyrillic in Miroslav's Gospel, CorD reminds you of several other priceless cultural artefacts written in Serbian Cyrillic.

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The Temnic inscription, named after the place near Varvarine where the plate upon which the inscription appears was found, dates back to the 11th century. For linguistic historians, the find was proof that this form of writing was used in Serbia soon after it was recognised in 893ad following the decision of Bulgaria's Tsar Simeon. It is thought that the plate was part of a local church collection.

Ten of the 40 Sevaistis martyrs are noted on the plate. The master who chiselled them in the limestone plate was exceptionally skilful: the letters are beautiful, identical, composed in a symmetrical way and look like they are calligraphically produced. The Temnic's inscription is currently displayed in Belgrade's National Museum.

Miroslav's Gospel contains sections from all four gospels intended for religious services. It is named after the king who ordered its creation: Hum's Knez Miroslav, brother of Serbian emperor Stefan Nemanja. The Gospel most probably dates from 1190, when Stefan Nemanja defeated Miroslav and took over Hum forcing Miroslav to spend the remainder of his days in Bijelo Polje, Montenegro. In accordance with the customs of the time, he wanted to donate the gospel to his memorial, the Church of St. Peter and Paul the Apostles in Bjelo Polje and, thus, ordered the transcribing of the book. Miroslav engaged one of the scribe workshops in Dubrovnik, which were contemporarily renowned for their calligraphy skills. Knez Miroslav received the Gospel written in Cyrillic letters, none more beautiful which are yet to be found, and decorated with initials which, in terms of their beauty and imagination, cannot be measured with any other work of Serbia's cultural inheritance.

Miroslav's Gospel was written in black ink with exceptionally elegant, narrow and perfectly symmetrical letters. Who was the master? It is unknown whether it was only one scribe or several equally skilled scribes. However, it is known that the text was decorated by Grigorije Dijak, as he personally wrote two notes in the books indices which present him as the author of the decorations. Grigorije drew 296 miniatures and initials. In them, he imaginatively connected and interlaced plants, beasts and people in unexpected combinations and metaphors: soldier on guard with trumpets, the slaughter of the pig, a scribe at a table,

ing the Second World War, in one of the wooden cases from the King's inheritance with the regent, Aleksandar Karađorđević.

The gospel was then given to the Prince Pavle Museum, and since 1945 has been in the National Museum.

Miroslav's Gospel is kept in a room with a special chamber where the temperature, humidity and light are constantly maintained at ideal levels for preserving this most preand most beautiful Serbian book ever to During its eight-century life, Miroslav's Gospel has trav- cious be written in Cyrillic. elled far and wide and fallen into the hands of many In the Serbian Orthodox Church Museum, owners. In accordance with Knez Miroslav's will, it went the cover for the shroud of Saint Knez Lazar's to the Holy Island, and the monks of Hilandar gave it to relics is exhibited, on which the nun Jefimija embroidered her "Praise to Saint Knez Lazar".

King Aleksandar Obrenović in 1896.

Jefimija's prose on this embroidery proved to be a deacon with the censer, beasts biting each other, colourful among the most well noticed exponents in the exhibition, birds… He painted them with green, ochre and red paint, and "Byzantium faith and power" in the Metropolitan Museum in decorated them in gold. The exceptionally luxurious initials New York last spring. were created according to then contemporary western tastes, Jelena, Jefimija's secular name, was a relative of Tsar but with the visible influence of Byzantine artistic values.

Dušan. In her early youth Jelena experienced great tragedies: During its eight-century life, the Gospel has travelled far and her child died and soon after her husband, despot Uglješa, died wide and fallen into the hands of many owners. In accordance in the 1371 battle of Mariča. After that she entered the monaswith Knez Miroslav's will, it went to the Holy Island and the tic order and became Jefimija. Historians at that time recorded monks of Hilandar gave it to King Aleksandar Obrenović in 1896. her successful diplomatic activity in interstate relations with Later, after the king was murdered in 1903, all trace of the the sultan Bajazit. All her literary works were simultaneously Gospel was lost for almost 40 years. It was chanced upon dur- works of applied art: she showed her sorrow for her young son CorD | January 2006

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burning of churches by the Turks in this area. He also notes that it took him and his eight co-workers a year to print the Oktoih, and mentions that unassuming Makarije from Montenegro "hand-crafted" the book. Makarije is the forefather of modern letter designers and printers. He manufactured Cyrillic letters himself. Makarije formed the shape from Latin letters (the only letters which existed at that time), by adapting them to Cyrillic needs. He cast the matrix through which he printed letters in metal. His letters are the first Serbian printed Cyrillic. The press and paging of this book proves that this master's knowledge and skill was not secondary to that of the Venitian masters.

Makarije made the book following the example of Serbian handwriting, adapting it to the taste which dominated at that time in Venice. The book was printed in two colours, black and

: Only 40 years after Gutenberg pioneered printing, Đurađ Crnojević opened a printing shop in Cetinje. The first book, the Oktoih prvoglasnik, was completed on 17th January 1494 and one of 96 preserved copies is kept in the Serbian Academy of Science and Art

on the silver surfaces of the small icon, and on the curtain made of red satin for Tsar's Gate in the Hilandar Monastery she embroidered the Lord's Prayer and life-size figures of Vasilije the Great and Silver Tongued Jovan.

Jefimija embroidered her Praise to Saint Knez Lazar on red satin with some kind of specially gilded wire in the Ravanica monastery, where Lazar had been buried after being killed during the Kosovo battle.

The text covers a rectangular surface and is ordaned with ornamental edging. It was composed very skilfully - the letters towards the middle of the shroud are smaller and broader, which creates the impression of relief and the dramatic. In terms of their shape, the letters fit into the context of the text which, with simple and great words, glorifies Knez Lazar and describes the demise of the Serbian army in Kosovo. Her Praise, which was created to help the needs of the church, would now certainly be considered as an object of great artistic merit; Jefimija's work was the forerunner of the modern calligraphists: in exhibitions they present the new shapes of letters in the form of graphic, aquarelle and other painting techniques.

Only 40 years after Gutenberg pioneered printing, Đurađ Crnojević opened a printing shop in Cetinje. His first book, the Oktoih prvoglasnik, was completed on 17th January 1494 and one of 96 preserved copies is kept in the Serbian Academy of Science and Art (SANU).

The Oktoih prvoglasnik is the first printed book in the Balkans. It remains one of the most popular books used during the religious services of the Serbian Orthodox Church. In the preface, Crnojević explains that he started to print books in order to compensate for the lack of books, resulting from the

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red. It is believed that he placed the whole page first in the printing press, and then lifted the lines destined to be printed in different colours so that the other could be printed. In the example of Oktoih, which is preserved in SANU, there is not a single mistake on any of the book’s 270 pages.

The First Serbian elementary reading book, better known as Monk Sava's reader, is kept in the Serbian National library. The book, designed by Monk Sava himself, was published in 1597 in Venice in Rampaceta's printing shop. Monk Sava started his work with an alphabet consisting of 37 letters. On the next page he wrote only vowels and on the next one he united vowels with syllables. After that he stated the names of the letters and added texts for reading. His method of learning to read, voice method, was contrary to the accepted method of reading at that time - sounding out. Monk Sava promoted this method, which is still practiced today, two centuries before Stefanije.

We have cited just a small number of documents from the history of Serbian Cyrillic. Many of them, beautiful and important, are not in our country, but rather reside in European museums, libraries and private collections. But that was not the subject of this text. •

Culture

FINANCING CULTURAL REGENERATION The Swiss Cultural Programme is the only foundation in the region which currently finances the culture of Serbia & Montenegro. Since 2001, this fund has supported around 280 projects from different cultural fields in the State Union

By Maja Vukadinović; Photo: Stanislav Milojković

Over two years ago, leading experts from SCG's governmental sector, the University of Art, institutions and non-governmental organisations, defined the potential and needs in the domain of art and culture, which helped in determining the Swiss Cultural Programme's priority fields of activity. It was decided to give top priority to stimulating the innovative arts (production, promotion etc), co-operation between artists, cultural workers at various levels and the decentralisation of artistic and cultural production.

According to Kujundžić, support is provided through three financial lines. Small projects include exhibitions, publications, performances and concerts, etc., as well as mid-term research projects, and the establishment of co-operation and exchanges, both domestically and internationally, involving individuals from Serbia & Montenegro.

Since 2001, the Swiss Cultural Programme has supported around 280 projects initiated in SCG. A total of 190 applications were received during 2005, of which the National Counselling Committee supported 53. The greatest interest was generated in the field of visual arts and the theatre.

The second budgeting fund - Regional Small Actions - is dedicated to supporting short-term projects involving co-operation between at least three partner organisations from those countries covered by the Swiss Cultural Programme for SouthEastern Europe and the Ukraine. The aim is to establish cooperation and the exchange of experiences between artists or institutions in eight countries, the presentation of the specifics of artistic environments and their participation in European artistic dialogue. To date, this programme has supported the project Cross Music Centre, which includes a web portal in Albanian, Macedonian, Serbian and English, and includes a database and other useful options.

he play If This Were a Play, directed by Petar Pejaković as a Belef production, was added to the repertoire of Sarajevo's MESS, while Bojana Mladenović and Dušan Murić's modern dance performance, the Next Step made in co-operation with the Neočekivana Sila group (Unexpected Force), appeared in the programme of the Balkan Dance Platforms in Skopje.

Both productions were added to the repertoires of events in neighbouring countries, thanks to the support of the Swiss Cultural Programme, a foundation which presents the joint action of the Since 2001, the Swiss Cultural Programme has supSwiss Artistic Council (Pro Helvetia) and the Swiss ported around 280 projects initiated in SCG. A total of Direction for Development and Co-operation (SCD).

190 applications were received during 2005, of which "In January, this programme will decide about grants which will be given in the period from the National Counselling Committee supported 53 February to May 2006. The maximum amount for a Collaboration projects include one or more local organisasingle grant is 10,000 Swiss Franks", says Cultural Programme tions in the wider format, and last up to three years with the aim Officer, Kristina Kujundžić.

The Swiss Cultural Programme supports the development of resolving the key issues affecting the country's cultural situation. These projects encompass training and forming teams, of the cultural and artistic scene in Serbia & Montenegro.

"This programme has been in effect since 2001, and the establishing the independence of organisations, creating platoffice in Belgrade was opened in October 2002. The Swiss forms for the production of contemporary art, the promotion of Cultural Programme supports the projects of Serbian and the democratic, decentralised, partnership approaches to culMontenegrin professional artists and cultural workers (man- ture, as well as contributing to the defining of the cultural policy agers, creators, critics, theoreticians …) who stimulate the of the country. The first collaboration project, the Open Road Edevelopment of the artistic scene in Serbia & Montenegro and 761, started in January 2005 and includes the municipalities of improve and promote its contemporary identity, as well as its Užice, Čačak, Požega and Kraljevo.

In conclusion, Kujundžić notes that the Swiss Cultural Proparticipation in European artistic dialogue. The Programme affirms creativity in the fields of music, theatre dance, film and gramme is the only non-state foundation in the region which is mew media, literature and visual arts", says Kujundžić. providing financial support to culture in Serbia & Montenegro. •

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CULTURE NEWS JANUARY CONCERTS BRAZIL - TAKE ONE The first cycle of contemporary Brazilian film was held in the Cervantes Institute during November. However, the Cervantes hall, where the films - mainly comedies - were shown free of charge every Saturday in November, proved too small for all those interested in becoming acquainted with Brazilian cinematography.

Ruiza Mara Andrejević, Counsellor of the Brazilian Embassy in Belgrade, provided the initiative for the film cycle: "When I arrived in Belgrade in May 2005 I found a box of 40 new Brazilian films on DVD and thought that it would be good to show them in Belgrade. Since we did not have the money to translate them into Serbian, films in the Cervantes Institute are shown with English subtitles", said Andrejević.

Since all of the copies were on DVD, all showings were free of charge because films on DVD cannot be commercially exploited.

Co-operation between Spain’s Cervantes Institute and the Embassy of Brazil came about as a natural consequence of cultural ties between Brazil and Spain. "In talks with the director of Cervantes, Juan Elroiga, we agreed on this cycle", said Andrejević. All the films recently shown in the Cervantes Institute were contemporary comedy productions.

Andrejević explains: "This is a kind of test to see whether people here are interested in Brazilian films. The reaction from the public was very positive, and that led us to try to find other places where we could show films, such as Kinoteka (the film library cinema). I believe that the director of the Kinoteka, Dinko Tucaković, will choose a certain number of films from this list that he would like to show to the citizens of Belgrade. We would also like those films to be shown in other parts of SCG, of course free of charge", said Andrejević.

The films shown in the Cervantes Institute were shown at film festivals all around the world and have won numerous awards. The first film in this series, Deus e Brasileiro (God is a Brazilian), was made in 2002 and enjoyed three nominations at the Great Brazilian Film Awards - for best music, photography and stenography; the film Narradores de Jave has won a veritable bucket-load of awards, including one from the international film festival in Freiberg, Switzerland, two - best film and best male role - at the festival in Rio, a further award for the best independent film and best screenplay at the international festival of independent film in Brussels, and the best film award at the international festival in Uruguay. The film, O homem que copiava (The Man who Copied), won the best screenplay award at the international festival in Miami, the critics' award at the international festival in Uruguay and the Latin America film award at the same festival.

"Film is very popular in Brazil. People like films and going to the cinema, and it is very difficult to find a place in cinemas on Saturday evening. That is the result of the considerable progress made in domestic film production in the last two decades", said Andrejević.

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ILIJA M. KOLARAC FOUNDATION Tuesday, 3rd January - 11am Ensemble Joculatores Slavenses Sunday, 8th January - 11am Concert to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of Mokranjac: "MOKRANJAC FOR ALL TIMES". The concert will include two compositions for pianos, arranged by Vera Milanković and perofmred by the duet Mišić-Nikolajević Monday, 9th January - 8pm Ensemble Svetilen Monday, 14th January - 8pm Oliver Njego, opera singer Wednesday, 17th January - 8pm Ilija Marinković, violin Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Friday, 20th January - 8pm Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Concert: conductors choose for you Conductor: Uroš Lajovic Soloist: Til Felner, piano Programme:A. Snitke - Mozart ala Hayden W.A. Mozart - Concert for piano and orchestra K 488 M.Reger - Variations for orchestra on a Mozart theme Thursday, 26th January - 8pm Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Homage to Hans Swarovski Conductor: Jaques Delaquet Programme:A. Vebern - Summer Wind R. Strauss - Gentleman with a rose - waltz J. Brahms - Symphony No.2

EXHIBITIONS BELGRADE CULTURAL CENTRE GALLERY, Knez Mihailova 6 11th January - 7pm Exhibition: "Critics choices for 2006" Author of the exhibition: Branislava Anđelković-Dimitrijević Artist: Biljana Đurđević ARTGET GALLERY, TRG REPUBLIKE 5 13th January - 7pm Exhibition of photographs selected by Goranka Mati?

Era Milivojević, Neša Paripović and Jovan Čekić

CULTURAL CALENDAR JANUARY GOETHE INSTITUTE IN BELGRADE Youth Centre Weltsprache Fussball- Planet Football 10th January - 17th January, 2006.

An exhibition of 42 large photographs shot by various artists

BALLET The French Cultural Centre presents the Young Paris Ballet Troupe's performances of classical and contemporary dance. The troupe comprises fifthyear students of the Parisian Ballet Conservatorium.

around the world, inspired by the most important ‘unimportant’ thing in the world - football.

With the World Cup due to be staged in Germany later this year, and with SCG sure to compete, Belgrade's Goethe Institute has commence a varied programme dedicated to this, the world's biggest sporting event.

Films about football in different countries and from different periods of film history will be screened in the Goethe Youth Centre.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Venues:Yugoslav Drama Theatre, 23rd January - 8pm Serbian National Theatre, Novi Sad, 25th January - 7pm FILM PREMIERES Casanova Sava Centre, 11th January - 8pm An adaptation of the classic true story of a young Italian who, after failing to find true love in Venice, sets about the task of finding the real meaning of love, and enjoys thousands of lovers.

Directed by Lasse Hallstrom Starring: Heath Ledger, Jeremy Irons, Lauren Cokan, Charlie Cox, Sienna Miller, Lena Olin Screenplay: Michael Christopher, Jeffrey Hatch -- In cinemas nationwide from 12th January Munich Sava Centre, 26th January - 8pm

Students' exhibition French Cultural Centre, Monday, 30th January - 7pm, to Saturday 18th February Exhibition of student works inspired by Morris Ravel and Claud Debussy

Following the tragic Palestinian terrorist attack at the Munich Olympic Games in Munich in 1972, Israeli Mosad agents follow the trail left by the killers of Israel's Olympians.

Directed by Steven Spielberg.

Starring: Eric Bana, Mathieu Kassovitz, Geoffrey Rush, Sharon Alexander Screenplay: Tony Kushner, Charles Randolph Autoir de Minuit (Around Midnight) French Cultural Centre, Friday, 27th January - 7pm Production house Autoir de Minuit will show its new films as part of its video and film screening cycle.

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Culture - Film

LOVING AND LIVING IN EUROPE After myriad delays, Serbia & Montenegro finally became a member country of Euroimage - the European Commission for Film - early in 2005. In February 2006 three SCG cinemas are expecting this European institution to decide on requests for financial aid to help them show European films to the local public

Jelena Jovanović; Photo: Jelena Mandić CG's long overdue membership of Euroimage has helped the country's cinemas join those in other countries of the region who are able, thanks to membership in this European institution, to apply for financial aid to distribute European film, with the aim of nurturing European cinema.

"We have been asked for a long time to become a member of Euroimage because of our film industry and our film legacy.

However, we were not able to collect all of the required documentation necessary for participation, i.e. archive materials, production lists, distribution lists, etc. It has taken us since 2003 to gather all that material", says Igor Stanković of the Mascom Distribution House - a beneficiary of Euroimage funds.

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Igor Stanković: benefiting from Euroimage funds

In Europe there are two important film associations Euroimage and Media Plus. Media Plus is the more comprehensive example of the two, encompassing 24 countries. The Euroimage system functions in such a way that every member country pays membership fees (SCG pays €80,000 annually), which are used by the fund to support European film. Then Euroimage provides support in the distribution, production and presentation of European film and exclusively finances co-productions.

There are six Euroimage sessions a year, and attendance of a session should be applied for a month in advance. "This year we were granted money for two co-productions: Flight by Rosnant, by the Bulgarian film director Georgi Stojev and coproduced by Bulgaria, The Serbian public adores Spanish films, French films, and watches SCG and Austria; Ljubavni Swedish and Danish films. If domestic cinemas and film distributors are Sabor in Guča (Love Fair granted aid from Euroimage, everything will be much better because films in Guča), a Germanand Czech co-prowhich were so far unable to find a place in cinemas because of financial Serbian duction", says Stankovi?. reasons will be able to do so now Every distributor has the right to apply for Next month [February 2006], the three applicant cinemas funding for two films per session (ten films a year), and cinemas will find out if they fulfil Euroimage's requirements and, therecan apply once a year. by, are illegible to receive the requested aid. The main condiAs no cinemas in the State Union were part of the Euroimage tion of the Euroimage fund is that 50 per cent of the cinema's system at the beginning of 2005, a total of 78 places were reserved annual repertoire comprises European films that are premierfor SCG-based cinemas. It was made public in advance that one ing in those cinemas. Other, more technical, conditions are that place has been reserved for the Montenegrin applicant, while one cinemas are open year-round, have a seating capacity in excess Kosovo cinema has been a Euroimage member for four years of 50, project at least ten films per week and adhere to profes(Euroimage treats Kosovo as independent territory). sional projection standards.

After the Euroimage session in Strasburg in February, it will "The deadline for the application was 13th September and be known which cinemas have been granted this aid: "The cash the Dom Sindikata (with one hall), the Dvorana Kulturnog support for the first year of membership is €18,690 and for each Centra and one cinema in Podgorica applied", says Stanković. following year it depends on the number of films shown and

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Culture - Film varies between €12,000 and €18,000 per year. "We are in a slightly more difficult situation because we are the last European country (together with Bosnia and Herzegovina) to become a member of this association", says Stojanović.

Mascom is especially interested in co-operating with Euroimage because this financial support will enable the film distributor to continue distributing European films with less financial troubles. "We are primarily dealing with the distribution of independent European films and so far this distribution was doomed to the same profit as the number of public in the cinema - and the profit so far has been poor. 2002 saw 4.5 million viewers, 2003 3.4 million, 2004 3 million and 2005 2 million", says Stojanović. "In our country European films are unable to find space on cinema repertoires because of the big American blockbusters. They are small films, with modest budgets and expensive film preparations. The number of viewers remains small in Europe too and the Euroimage and Media Plus systems exist in order to stimulate those films".

Mascom receives €8,000 for a European film that had its production supported by Euroimage. "With that amount it is possible to place that film on the repertoire and to be profitable only if this film has 1,200 viewers", says Stojanović.

So far Mascom has distributed films which are not blockbusters, but small independent films such as The Keys to the House, The Perfect Crime, I Give You My Eyes, The Good Life, Saturday in one Frame and Stefan Arsenijević's Izgubljenonađeno (Lost-Found).

"If it weren't for good events, such as FEST and the Festival of Authors Film, many films would never be shown in Serbia.

This year Hu Xiao Xian's Three Lines will be shown at FEST. Emir Kusturica dubbed this Taiwanese film director the best director of all time. Three Lines would certainly not have been

Ivan Karl, head of the FCS's sector for international co-operation

moting the film industry", says Karl.

The FCS organised a reception in honour of Serbian films which were shown at this festival in both the main and supporting programmes. "That was one of the most successful receptions at this festival", says Karl.

This year's festival saw the launch of the Ohrid Initiative, which was backed by all the cultural ministries of the countries of the former Yugoslavia. The initiative was set in motion by Serbian Minister of Culture, Dragan Kojadinović, FCS director, Đorđe Milićević, and Sarajevan producers This year's festival saw the launch of the so-called Ohrid's Initiative, Milko Josifov and Ademir Kenović. which was backed up by all the cultural ministries of the countries The initiative has established a fund which will improve film of the former Yugoslavia. This is the initiative for establishing a regional production in this region. The festive regional fund which will improve film production in this region signing of the protocol of the establishment of the regional film fund shown if we had not managed to make an agreement with was arranged during the Sarajevo festival. The Protocol was signed by the Ministers of Culture of Serbia and B&H. FEST", says Stojanović.

Greece, Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary and Austria joined the Stojanović expects significant results from co-operation with Euroimage especially since Serbia has a public which former Yugoslav republics participating in the fund. The Fund is respects and likes European films, but so far has had very few imagined in such a way that all countries annually invest certain resources and then every year a certain number of films and direcchances to watch them in cinemas.

"Our public adores Spanish films, French films, and watches tors from those countries will be supported in making their films.

After Sarajevo another manifestation followed in September Swedish and Danish films. Film distributors have a good feeling for films and now everything will be much better because those films - the Days of SCG culture in Germany. A large number of conwhich so far could not find a place in cinemas will be able to do temporary Serbian films were shown in three Berlin, Wiesbaden so", says Stojanović. "A good quarter of the total number of films and Hamburg. "A selection of feature, documentary and short films were shown and our authors presented themselves to their shown will be European films and that is a significant success".

2005 also proved significant for Serbian authors involved in German hosts, critics, audiences and the media. Among them co-productions, thanks in part to the Serbian Film Centre (FCS), were Raša Andrić, Goran Bjelogrlić, Milutin Petrovic, Goran an institution established by the Serbian Ministry of Culture to Radovanovic, Dinko Tucaković, Miloš Jovanović, Boris Mitić and Jelena Marković. support the promotion of Serbian films in Europe.

"The selection of this programme was made by film journal"The FCS's first major appearance was the big project within the framework of international co-operation, and that was its ist Borislav Andjelic in co-operation with his German colleagues, appearance at the festival in Sarajevo", says Ivan Karl, who has while the FCS was in charge of the operational organisation", been the head of the FCS's sector for international co-operation Karl told CorD. At the end of November the Days of Serbian Culture since June 2005. "For almost a decade, that festival has been one of the most important festivals in this part of Europe... The event was held in Temishvar, for which the FCS organised a festival is not only the place where you can see films from the five day film programme that was closed by actor and direcregion, but the place where people from the film industry come tor, Ljubiša Samardžić's film, Jesen stiže dunjo moja - it is a place for meetings, making new business deals and pro- (Autumn is coming, my quince). • CorD | January 2006

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Culture - Global Appearances in Belgrade

City of Music In 2005 Belgrade showed that it is well capable of playing host to global stars, such as the French diva Catherine Daneuve, American rock stars R.E.M. or Italian tenors Luciano Pavarotti and Andrea Bocelli. This year, Belgrade's guests included other famous names from the cultural and artistic scenes, such as the Academy Of St. Martin In The Fields orchestra, Russian pianist Arkadij Volodos; jazz musician Dave Holland and other famous guests at the

By Vesna Milosavljevi}

- apart from some guests at traditional events, such as Bitef, Fest, Bemus, Belef and the October Salon.

It turned out that the expensive tickets for certain concerts, even as much as 20,000 dinars (€250+/-) for Pavarotti, for instance, were not an obstacle for a certain segment of the Belgrade public: the events were sold the fastest. On the other hand, many lovers of less commercial artists were priced out of attending, with even ticket prices of 1,000 dinars proving too expensive for some, especially younger, people.

[ERBED@IJA: SINGING LIFE

renewed Belgrade Jazz Festival, British writer Tony Parsons, illusionist David Copperfield, Greek artist Janis Kunelis, as well as one of the world most celebrated conductors, Zubin Mehta.

It appears that the music scene is more open for "the world in Belgrade", while local theatre, art and film remain without big names

Famous Yugoslav actor and theatre director, Rade [erbed`ija, held a concert to promote his a u t o b i o g r a p h y, "Breathless" (Samizdat B92) in Atelje 212 at the end of June. [erbed`ija, who spent the 90's in Zagreb, Belgrade, Ljubljana and then lived in London, finished shooting the films, The Fog by John Carpenter and The Optimist by Marius Balchunas in the U.S. this year.

the Days of organs, festival "Cymbal - live art", Ring Ring, Dis-patch and Vybe - where Faithless, the Thievery Corporation, Gus Gus and X Press 2 appeared.

The two most important concert stages remained Dom Omladine (Youth House) and the Student Cultural Centre (SKC), where rock and pop lovers had the chance to enjoy performances by MC5/DTK, Jonathan Richman, the Jon Spencer Blues Explosion, NoMenasNo, Megadeth, as well as the sons of legends John Lee Hooker and Bob Marley (John Lee Hooker Jr. and Juliana Marley). Music fans could also see the Walkabouts, the Real Mackenzies, former Rolling Stones bassist Bill Wyman with his band 'the Rhythm Kings', Steve Wynn and Miracle 3, Arto Lindsay, DJ Patife (Patife) and MC Stamina; Gilles Peterson, Damo Suzuki and the stars of the worlds club scene Marshall Jefferson and Richie Hawtin (Plasticman)…

KUNELIS WITHOUT AN EXHIBITION

Famous Greek artist, Janis Kunelis, who has been living in Italy since the mid '50s, visited Belgrade to stage a work shop and perform a lecture to students of the Art University and the Goethe Institute. Kunelis was awarded an honorary doctorate of the Art University, as a tribute to his art and pedagogical work, but, despite being one of the key practitioners of Arte Povera and the European art scene of the 70's and 80's, there was no exhibition of his work in the city.

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Belgraders were able to enjoy the concerts of German electro-pop pioneers Kraftwerk, British stars Phil Collins, The Prodigy and Jamiroquai; Portuguese fado stars - the singer Marize and the group Madredeus, Cuban singer Omara Portuondo, the barefoot diva from the Cape Verde islands, Cesaria Evora, American singer Julie Cruise, Arsen Dedic, Darko Rundek and Masimo Savić from Zagreb, as well as numerous guests who performed at Belef, Bemus, the Guitar art festival,

If all those names point to the renewed liveliness of the Belgrade cultural scene, what remains unexplained as a special phenomenon is the concert of regional attraction Bjelo Dugme at the Hippodrome, which attracted almost two hundred thousand people, almost as many as all of the world music stars in Belgrade managed to gather during the whole year.

Culture - Global Appearances in Belgrade

Despite a whole host of global celebrities opting to appear in Belgrade of late, the city has yet to revive its former image as a European centre of culture. For the time being, it remains the music world that feels most welcome in the arena of Belgrade This year dance lovers were able to enjoy the first class Paris Opera ballet dancers at the Belgrade Dance Festival, as well as the participants in the Belgrade Tango Festival. A key event was the Bitef Festival, which this year was dedicated to the 200th anniversary of the birth of Danish fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen. Bitef was opened with a performance of Foramen Magnum, performed by famous Israeli dance company, Kibbutz from Tel Aviv, and closed with the French hip-hop troupe Acrorap.

WITHOUT CHUCK BERRY

Belgrade remained without the appearance of the legendary Chuck Berry, who was supposed to open the Summertime Festival and Belef at the same time.

His concert was cancelled for health reasons and, instead of the announced Marcus Miller Band, famous jazz pianist McCoy Tyner appeared with his All Star band. of Anarchy and Chaos".

Famous French comic strip artist, writer and director Enki Bilal presented himself to Belgrade's audience and opened the Festival of French Film with the premiere of his 3D science fiction film Immortal. Comic lovers were able to meet the director of the famous Angleum Festival, Jean-Marc Thevent, as well as British author Adrian Smith at the International Comic Salon in SKC. Famous designer, comic draftsman and illustrator from New York, Marko Ilić, held a retrospective exhibition in the Museum of Yugoslav History.

Apart from many foreign exhibitors and authors at the 50th Jubilee Book Fair, at which Great Britain was the honored guest, Belgraders were introduced to Irish writer Hugo Hamilton, whose novel 'Freckled People' - published locally by the Clio publishing house - was awarded the French Femina award in 2004.

One of the most significant presenters of the post-communist generation of writers from central Europe, Polish author Andzej Stasjuk also visited Belgrade - his novel 'the White Raven' was also published by Clio.

Under the organisation of the BeogrAD Festival, Jamie King, London-based writer, musician and editor of Mute magazine, visited Belgrade, as did one of the greatest thinkers of modern times and the father of the World Academy for New Thinking and the World Museum of Innovations, Edward de Bono.

In spite of a chain of world celebrity guest appearances, Belgrade has still not managed to revive its image as a European cultural centre,

ANARHIJA NA KONCERTU

The concert of British punk rock group The Exploited in SKC was interrupted when a tear gas canister was discharged in the crowded hall. The Exploited visited Belgrade 20 years ago and are currently on a European tour marking 25 years of their existence "25 Years of Anarchy and Chaos"

PARSONS: ESCAPE FROM THE DEVIL'S DOLLARS

British writer and former rock critic, Tony Parsons, one of the star guests of the 50th Belgrade Book Fair, provoked great interest among Belgraders, who queued for hours on end to have him sign their copies of his books - published locally by Laguna.

Parsons presented himself as a big opponent of commercialisation, stating that he is "exerting great effort to avoid the devil's experience - the dollar".

He criticised the British film industry for attempting to satisfy the tastes of the American public. since the majority of stars visited other big towns in the countries of the former Yugoslavia and surrounding countries. It remains to be seen whether the long awaited, and several times announced, rock legends of the Rolling Stones will finally come to Belgrade next year.

The same applies to Depeche Mode, whose concert in Zagreb is already planned for March.

New Belgrade's Sava Centre has announced concerts by American musician Lou Reed and the Scottish group Simple Minds for March.

2005 The music scene proved to be the most open for international performers, while lovers of theatre, visual arts and film didn’t have a chance to see the world’s leading artists

CorD | January 2006

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Sport - World Cup 2006

SCG'S GROUP OF DEATH To help you clear your diaries and book your days off in advance, this month CorD brings you all the details you need to plan your World Cup 2006 schedule

he final draw for the 2006 World Cup Finals, held in Leipzig on 9th December and hosted by FIFA Director of Communications, Markus Siegler, resulted in some interesting groups to compete in the arenas and stunning new stadia of Germany next summer.

World Cup debutants Serbia & Montenegro (the country last competed in the 1998 World Cup as FR Yugoslavia) had a sensational run in the qualifying stages, winning their group ahead of

T

VENUES Berlin Dortmund Frankfurt Gelsenkirchen Hamburg Hanover Kaiserslautern Cologne Leipzig Munich Nuremberg Stuttgart

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CAPACITY Olympiastadion Signal Iduna Park Waldstadion Veltins Arena AOL Arena AWD-Arena Fritz Walter Stadion RheinEnergieStadion Zentralstadion Allianz Arena Frankenstadion Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion

the more experienced Spain and Belgium. Now SCG has to prove its sporting prowess once again, having been drawn in Group C - immediately dubbed the 'group of death' by international football pundits and the Serbian media alike. With the likes of Argentina - ranked third in the world by FIFA, representatives of the football-mad Holland, and the Ivory Coast - Africa's number one nation, the State Union team will have their work cut out for them if they hope to progress beyond the group stages. •

77,176 64,000 50,132 53,804 51,055 44,652 41,170 46,120 44,199 66,000 41,926 54,267

Group A: Germany - Costa Rica - Poland - Ecuador Fixtures:Date & time venue Germany vs. Costa Rica 9th June, 6pm Munich Poland vs. Ecuador 9th June, 9pm Gelsenkirchen th Germany vs. Poland 14 June, 9pm Dortmund Ecuador vs. Costa Rica 15th June, 3pm Hamburg th Ecuador vs. Germany 20 June, 4pm Berlin Costa Rica vs. Poland 20th June, 4pm Hanover

Group B: England - Paraguay - T&T - Sweden Fixtures:Date & time England vs. Paraguay 10th June, 3pm T&T vs. Sweden 10th June, 6pm England vs. T&T 15th June, 6pm Sweden vs. Paraguay 15th June, 9pm Paraguay vs. T&T 20th June, 9pm Sweden vs. England 20th June, 9pm

venue Frankfurt Dortmund Nuremberg Berlin Kaiserslautern Cologne

Group C: Argentia - Ivory Coast - SCG - Holland Fixtures:Date & time venue th Argentina vs. Ivory Coast 10 June, 9pm Hamburg SCG vs. Holland 11th June, 3pm Leipzig Argentina vs. SCG 16th June, 3pm Gelsenkirchen Holland vs. Ivory Coast 16th June, 6pm Stuttgart Holland vs. Argentina 21th June, 9pm Frankfurt th Ivory Coast vs. SCG 21 June, 9pm Munich

Group D: Mexico - Iran - Angola - Portugal Fixtures:Date & time Mexico vs. Iran 11th June, 6pm Angola vs. Portugal 11th June, 9pm Mexico vs. Angola 16th June, 9pm Portugal vs. Iran 17th June, 3pm Portugal vs. Mexico 21th June, 4pm Iran vs. Angola 21th June, 4pm

venue Nuremberg Cologne Hanover Frankfurt Gelsenkirchen Leipzig

CorD | January 2006

Sport - World Cup 2006 Group E: Italy - Ghana - USA - Czech Republic Fixtures:Date & time USA vs. Czech Republic 12th June, 6pm Italy vs. Ghana 12th June, 9pm Italy vs. USA 17th June, 6pm Czech Republic vs. Ghana 17th June, 9pm Czech Republic vs. Italy 22nd June, 4pm Ghana vs. USA 22nd June, 4pm

venue Gelsenkirchen Hanover Kaiserslautern Cologne Hamburg Nuremberg

Group G: France - Switzerland - Rep. Korea - Togo Fixtures:Date & time venue th Rep. Korea vs. Togo 13 June, 3pm Frankfurt France vs. Switzerland 13th June, 6pm Stuttgart th France vs. Rep. Korea 18 June, 8pm Leipzig Togo vs. Switzerland 19th June, 3pm Dortmund Switzerland vs. Rep. Korea 23rd June, 9pm Hanover rd Togo vs. France 23 June, 9pm Cologne

Group F: Brazil - Croatia - Australia - Japan Fixtures:Date & time Australia vs. Japan 12th June, 3pm Brazil vs. Croatia 13th June, 9pm Japan vs. Croatia 18th June, 3pm Brazil vs. Australia 18th June, 6pm Japan vs. Brazil 22nd June, 9pm Croatia vs. Australia 22nd June, 9pm

venue Kaiserslautern Berlin Nuremberg Munich Dortmund Stuttgart

Group H: Spain - Ukraine - Tunisia - Saudi Arabia Fixtures:Date & time venue th Spain vs. Ukraine 14 June, 3pm Leipzig Tunisia vs. Saudi Arabia 14th June, 6pm Munich th Saudi Arabia vs. Ukraine 19 June, 6pm Hamburg Spain vs. Tunisia 19th June, 9pm Stuttgart Ukraine vs. Tunisia 23rd June, 4pm Berlin rd Saudi Arabia vs. Spain 23 June, 4pm Kaiserslautern

Last-16: 1: 24th June, 5pm 2: 24th June, 9pm 3: 25th June, 5pm 4: 25th June, 9pm 5: 26th June, 5pm 6: 26th June, 9pm 7: 27th June, 5pm 8: 27th June, 9pm

Winner Group A vs. Runner-up Group B Winner Group C vs. Runner-up Group D Winner Group B vs. Runner-up Group A Winner Group D vs. Runner-up Group C Winner Group E vs. Runner-up Group F Winner Group G vs. Runner-up Group H Winner Group F vs. Runner-up Group E Winner Group H vs. Runner-up Group G

Munich Leipzig Stuttgart Nuremberg Kaiserslautern Cologne Dortmund Hanover

Quarter-finals: A: 30th June, 5pm B: 30th June, 9pm C: 1st July, 5pm D: 1st July, 9pm

Winner match 1 vs. Winner match 2 Winner match 5 vs. Winner match 6 Winner match 3 vs. Winner match 4 Winner match 7 vs. Winner match 8

Berlin Hamburg Gelsenkirchen Frankfurt

Semi-finals: I: 4th July, 9pm II: 5th July, 9pm

Winner A vs. Winner B Winner C vs. Winner D

Dortmund Munich

Third Place: 8th July, 9pm

Loser I vs. Loser II

Stuttgart

FINAL:9th July, 8pm

Winner I vs. Winner II

Berlin CorD | January 2006

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Stardust Night marks Raiffeisenbank's 4th birthday Raiffeisenbank a.d., Belgrade, celebrated its fourth year of business activities in Serbia at a festivity entitled "Stardust Night", organised at the Belgrade Genex Impulse Hall.

The party began with a performance of acrobats dangling from ropes, with string orchestra music in the background, while two artists on stilts showered gold dust and confetti over the guests, creating a truly magical effect.

Among the 1,600 guests were Serbian Finance Minister Mlađan Dinkić, Crown-prince Aleksandar Karađorđević with Princess Katherine, the leading managers of the majority of the most successful companies in Serbia and clients of Raiffeisenbank.

The audience was greeted by Budimir Kostić, former Chairman of the Managing Board. Reminding guests of Raiffeisenbank's successes, Mr. Kostić went on to highlight the market share of Raiffeisenbank assessed by total credit portfolio and total assets and its team of 1,220 employees, led by five young banking experts.

Mr. Oliver Roegl, new Chairman of the Managing Board of Raiffeisenbank a.d., Belgrade, expressed deep gratitude to his predecessor, Mr. Kostić, for the enormous contribution he made to the banks' development so far.

Guests were also addressed by finance minister Dinkić, who commented on the huge success of Raiffeisenbank during the past four years.•

New Mercedes Boasts All-wheel Drive By combining its V6 CDI engines with 4MATIC, Mercedes-Benz is fulfilling the wish of many E-Class customers for an economical and powerful long-haul car that travels smoothly in all weather conditions.

In the E 280 CDI 4MATIC and E 320 CDI 4MATIC, propulsive force is provided by state-of-the-art diesel engines generating 140 kW/190 hp and 165 kW/224 hp respectively. The diesel particulate filter is provided as standard, as is the five-speed automatic transmission.

In addition to the two new diesel models, both of which are available as saloons and estate cars, Mercedes-Benz is also offering permanent all-wheel drive vehicles with three powerful six and eight-cylinder petrol engines: the E 280 4MATIC (170 kW/231 hp), E 350 4MATIC (200 kW/272 hp) and E 500 4MATIC (225 kW/306 hp). As a result, ten variants of the E-Class model series are now available with all-wheel drive.

In adverse weather conditions such as snow, ice or rain, and also when

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starting, accelerating or driving on loose surfaces, the Mercedes-Benz 4MATIC models offer even better traction and dynamics. In addition, the Electronic Traction System (4ETS) ensures typical Mercedes standards of ride comfort. This is because it operates without conventional differential locks, which adversely affect the comfort and handling of other four-wheel drive cars. Instead, 4ETS applies controlled amounts of braking pressure to spinning wheels and simultaneously increases the amount of power sent to the wheels with good traction. In this way the electronic traction control system achieves the same effect as three differential locks. With the assistance of the Electronic Stability-Program (ESP®), the all-wheel drive models from Mercedes-Benz offer the very best in active driving safety.

The 4MATIC estate cars feature level control based on fully supporting air springs as standard. This enables load-dependent level control - spring travel on the rear axle is constant no matter how much is being transported- which means that the maximum driving comfort is always achieved.

The AIRMATIC DC air suspension system, which adapts damper force and spring rate at the front and rear axles to the respective driving situation, is available as an option. It is included as standard equipment in the E 500 4MATIC. Mercedes-Benz is now generating additional momentum with the all-new R-Class, an all-wheel drive Grand Sports Tourer that combines the benefits of existing vehicle types - such as sporty saloons, estate cars, vans and sports utility vehicles (SUV) - into a completely individual profile.

DaimlerChrysler SCG has already started with sales and test drives of E-Class with permanent allwheel drive.•

MPC - Usce Shopping Centre Plans Presented Internationally The biggest international shopping centre fair, 'MAPIC', was held in Cannes from 16th to 19th November, bringing together investors, developers and retailers from the world of retail malls.

MAPIC provides the perfect forum to present shopping centre projects and explore exclusive possibilities. With over 10,000 participants from 62 countries interacting, review competitive achievements and new tendencies, MAPIC provides key contacts and enables participants to glean new ideas for pilot projects.

European Construction d.o.o - a member of MPC Group, Belgrade - was one of only two representatives of Serbia at the fair. Presenting themselves at their own MAPIC stand, European Construction's team unveiled their exciting Usce Shopping Centre project.

Investment in the Usce Shopping Centre, including construction of the second tower, totals €150million.

And the MAPIC festival provided the opportunity to present the business trade centre, which is being constructed according to the latest European and global standards and

has the aim of adhering to the newest architectural, design and construction trends.

The completed Usce Centre, with a total area of 18,000m2 including the two towers - will bring to Belgrade one of the biggest trade, residential, retail and entertainment complexes in Central and Eastern Europe.

The completed complex will offer Belgraders and visitors to the Serbian capital a total of 64,000m2 for trading, entertainment, as well as some 2,000 parking spaces and a second tower, which will be built as an exclusive hotel.

Usce's retail centre will offer a 5,500m2 supermarket and 8,500m2 for fun and relaxtion, with the biggest multiplex cinema in Serbia and 10,500m2 of trade space; a fitness club, several restaurants, open bars and exclusive shops offering famous brands.

At the MAPIC Fair, the multi-functional Usce centre was presented at the stand of one of the world's leading architectural firms - Dallasbased Laguarda Low Architects, LLC, who prepared solution plans for the complex.

At the present juncture, with Serbia and Belgrade fighting to attract as many foreign investors as possible, the Usce centre emulates the norms of world metropolises and offers a comfortable, efficient environment to secure the future of Serbia and bring Belgrade closer to the world's great urban centres.•

Winter Work Continues at ACB Heads continue to be turned by the Airport City Belgrade construction work taking place alongside Omladinskih brigada on New Belgrade.

Despite winter beginning to take a grip on the city, local contractors and ABC supervisors are working unabated to ensure the project reaches its first-stage completion deadline in time for the spring 2006 arrivals of the business park's first tenants.

Work on this, the first bespoke business park development in Serbia, is considered of such importance to the country that Serbian Government officials are planning to visit ACB's headquarters to speak with ACB CEO Gili Dekel about the progress of this key project.

The Serbian Government's interest in the project is understandable, considering that the initial investment itself is worth an estimated €120million and the finished park is likely to generate thousands of sustainable long-term jobs at all levels of the local society.

Under the guidance of internationally-renowned architects and with the spearheading of Africa-Israel Corporation's experienced business park developers, the ever-developing ACB Park is set to become the Balkans’ premier centre for first-class business operations.•

EASY CASH STILL WITHOUT DEPOSIT At this festive period, Banca Intesa - Belgrade (formerly Delta banka) has opted to continue offering all citizens access to the fastest and easiest cash loans available in Serbia, regardless of whether they are Intesa accountholders or not.

With the 'Slava Season' upon us, and with the Christmas and new year holidays requiring that bit of extra cash, Banca Intesa's Easy Cash option could prove a godsend to many would-be shoppers. The National Bank of Serbia's latest measures did not affect loan conditions, thus Banca Intesa is able to approve Easy Cash without deposits - a major advantage over other short-term loan offers. Moreover, guarantors are not necessary, nor the opening of an Intesa account. Moreover, successful applicants are not burdened with administration fees.

Easy Credit is of maximum transparency, and all procedures and payments are explained to clients in detail. This loan programme has no hidden expenses and realistic repayment plans are presented to all applicants.

An Easy Cash loan is also extremely cost effective. For example, for a 12-month Easy Cash loan of €1,000, the total repayment, including fees and other expenses, amounts to just €1,117.

Citizens also enjoy maximum flexibility in terms of their repayment instalment plan and can, thus, determine exactly how much they would like to repay on a monthly basis, in accordance with their income. Banca Intesa staff will help successful applicants choose the most appropriate credit plan to suit their needs.

Easy Cash credits are available from €300 to €3,000, with varying repayment deadlines of 12 months, 18 months or 24 months and an effective annual interest rate of 23% on the outstanding debt.

Easy Cash loan procedures are quick and simple. Applicants need only bring their ID card to any of the 150 Banca Intesa branches nationwide. Within a maximum of 30 minutes they will receive an answer on their credit application, and within 24 hours they will be able to access the funds.• CorD | January 2006

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True Class - The BMW 7 Series The new BMW 7 Series comes with five allnew or completely revised petrol and diesel units. Only the twelve-cylinder engine of the 760i remains unchanged.

Despite a notable increase in output and torque, the new engines consume the same amount of fuel as previously, indeed, some of them are even less thirsty than before.

The new inline six-cylinder engine, with a displacement of 3.0 litres, ranks as the most innovative petrol unit worldwide. Thanks to its composite magnesium-aluminium crankcase, it is considerably lighter than its predecessor and, at just 161 kilograms, tops the lightweight league in this performance class.

Maximum variability in combustion control is ensured by BMW's innovative Valvetronic (valves) double-Vanos (camshafts) and a three-stage variable intake manifold, which give this engine impressive performance (258bhp/190kW) and fuel economy (10.1 litres/100km). Worldwide, 65 percent of all 7 Series buyers opt for a model powered by a V8 engine. The two eight-cylinders have also been comprehensively revised, with displacement raised to 4.0 litres (formerly 3.5) and 4.8 litres (from 4.4) respectively, giving the 740i and 750i a significant boost in output and torque. This increase has been achieved while maintaining the same levels of fuel economy or with only a slight increase in consumption.

Inside the two diesel units (730d and 745d) lurks a true sensation of engine design. Both the revised 3.0-litre six-cylinder and the newly designed, extremely torquey (700Nm) 4.4-litre V8 are the first diesel engines in this performance class to feature an aluminium crankcase.

The use of state-of-the-art fuel injection technology featuring piezo injectors, along with newly designed exhaust turbochargers with variable turbine geometry , also contributes to improved driving performance with the same fuel consumption (745d/9.5 litres) or even slightly improved economy (730d/8.2litres).

The chassis of the 7 Series Saloon has also been upgraded. It now boasts improved axle kinematics and a wider rear-axle track. The standard version already offers passengers the greatest of comfort coupled with generous dynamics. Two further chassis set-ups are available as special options. Adaptive Drive comprises Dynamic Drive roll stabilization along with a damper control system based on air suspension. The optional sports package adds a palpable dynamic boost to the set-up. A sports chassis in conjunction with Dynamic Drive underscores the sporty character of what is in every way a perfectly poised luxury saloon. It all adds up to what you might call true class. •

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Austrian Launches E newsletter Austrian Airlines has launched a new online newsletter service to keep the public up-to-date on all Austrian Airlines Group news and current offers.

Subscription, which does not imply an agreement to any commitment of any description, can be made via the website at www.newsletter.aua.com Austrian Airlines flies to 130 destinations in 66 countries across five continents. The company invites you to fly quickly and comfortably with Austrian, via Vienna International Airport to the world.

For more information and to contact the local Serbia Team, visit the SCG website at www.austrianairlines.co.yu, or email directly at osbeg@aua.com •

US Steel Tops Export Tables

Serbian Economy Minister, Predrag Bubalo, pictured alongside U.S. Steel Serbia’s Jeffrey Womac On 9th December, the Agency for promotion of foreign investments and export of the Republic of Serbia (SIEPA) announced U.S. Steel Serbia d.o.o as a best exporter in 2005.

During 2005, USS Serbia exported 395,000 tons of steel to more than 40 countries worldwide - 71.4 thousand tons more than during 2004.

Speaking at the SIEPA award ceremony in Belgrade City Parliament, Jasna Matić, SIEPA director, emphasized: "In the first ten months of this year, Serbia increased it's export by 35% compared to the same period last year. US Steel Serbia significantly contributed to that increase. U. S. Steel is not only the biggest exporter, but a major investor as well. Because of that, it is an even greater pleasure for me to present this award to them."

The award was accepted by Jeffrey Womac, general manager of U.S. Steel Serbia's commercial operations. "We are very proud of this award", Womac said. "We achieved a lot this year and we are planning to achieve even more in 2006. We will continue working diligently for Serbia's, and U.S. Steel-Serbia's, future."

U. S. Steel Serbia is dedicated to increasing productivity, but their primary goal is to maintain protection at work and the health of their employees. Indeed, the Smederevo works has always strived to create an environment of ethical business for all employees, clients and haulers.

SIEPA presented the top exporter awards for 2005 in four categories: best exporter; conqueror of new exporting markets, best export product, and best SME exporter.•

Easy & Safe - Vojvodjanska Bank cards Vojvodjanska Bank is the undisputed king of credit and debit card banking in Serbia. With its wide range of Visa debit cards - Electron, Internet, Classic, Gold and Business - its classic Visa credit card and Serbia's national DinaCard debit and credit cards, Vojvodjanska caters to all the credit and debiting needs of the nation.

Indeed, with over 350,000 cardholders, Vojvodjanska Bank is the market leader in temrs of issued cards: over 30 per cent of all DinaCards carry the Vojvodjanska logo and a quarter of all Visa cards in Serbia have been issued by Vojvdodjanska.

Clients opt to take Vojvodjanska's cards because of the banks excellent usage conditions and interest rates of just 1.8% per month, without a currency clause.

Visa and Dina credit cards are the most practical non-cash payment method. Depending the transaction amount, DinaCard expenses are split into monthly instalments, with totals of up to 5,000dinars being repaid in three monthly instalments, from 5,001dinars up to 10,000dinars in six monthly instalments, and transactions over 10,000dinars being repaid in 12 monthly instalments.

Successful DinaCard applicants need not possess a Vojvodjanska account, nor prove regular monthly income deposited in any bank account.

Visa Credit Card can be used both locally and abroad.

Transactions made abroad can be refunded in two equal monthly payments, while the repayments of internal transactions are dependent on the defined percentage of sales - 10 or 15 per cent of the amount (minimum - 1,000dinars).

Another advantage of opting for Vojvodjanska is the bank's comparatively long experience of working with credit card banking - since 1992. Moreover, Vojvodjanska operates its own processing centre devoted to credit/debit card business, which includes its own itemised database of clients and card personalisation; its own authorisation centre with a risk assessment team and a team to monitor all the bank's cash machines and POS terminals.

Vojvodjanska's aforementioned authorisation centre has a direct online connection to Visa International's system and all its member banks. Of particular importance is Vojvodjanska bank's security factors, which include constant risk assessment and 24hour protection against card abuses. These protection factors ensure that Vojvodjanska's card clients are provided with maximum protection around the clock.•

35 years of successful business Komercijalna banka a.d. marked its 35th birthday on 23rd December, organising a New Year's Eve party for young Belgraders to mark this occasion and the end of another successful year for the bank.

In conjunction with the Belef Centre, Komercijalna banka's cheerful, original New Year's party for children was held on Belgrade's Republic Square at year's end.

The last year has proved another highly profitable one for Komercijalna. Making results public, the bank's vicepresident, Predrag Mihajlović, noted that the bank's balance totalled 52.3billion dinars - over 75billion, inclusive of warranties.

In 2005, Komercijalna banka achieved profit of 304million dinars - 134% more than in 2004. During the same period, total reserves increased by 22% to 5.5billion dinars.

Incontrovertibly proving public trust in Komercijalna is that fact that foreign currency savings in Serbia currently amount to €425million. Moreover, domestic payment traffic over the first 11 months of 2005 totalled in excess of 29 million individual transactions, equating to around €1.362million - more than a fifth of all domestic payment traffic in Serbia. Komercijalna banka also contributed more than a fifth of all Serbia's international payment transfers.

In line with Komercijalna's aim of always being one step ahead of the needs of its clients, the bank constantly updates and enriches the products and services it provides.

In November, 2005, Komercijalna banka marked World Savings Day by launching its new Cricket Savings package, dedicated to children. And from December the bank launched its overdraft facility under favourable conditions for accountholders.

Komercijalna banka remains the biggest domestic bank in Serbia. Vice-president Mihajlović noted that the bank has an ISO 9000:2000 international quality standard certificate and boasts a network of 23 branch offices and 251 local offices nationwide.• CorD | January 2006

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Travel & Tourism

The Tourist Organisation of Serbia and CorD recommend that you start your New Year travels on the roads of Medieval Serbia, in order to acquaint yourself with the country's historical and cultural heritage. We also recommend a visit to the Tara National park, where you can spend a weekend in one of the area's beautiful village households

MEET MEDIEVAL SERBIA KRUŠEVAC The central Serbian city of Kruševac, Serbia's medieval capital, is a town rich in tradition. The Kruševac ravine, encompassing the valley of Western Morava, spreads between Levće and Temnići in the north, Župa, Kopaonik and Jastrebac in the south, Kraljevo ravine and Ibar valley in the west. Kruševac is 195km from Belgrade.

This former capital of Prince Lazar boasts the Lazarica Monastery and church of Saint Stephen, believed to have been erected between 1377 and 1380. The church's style is one of the first examples of the Moravska architectural school and has been a model for many later churches.

Nineteen kilometres from Kruševac lies the forested mountain of Jastrebac, with its highest peaks of Velika Đulica (1492m), Zmajevac (1.313m) and Bela stena (1.257m). An outstanding feature of the mountain is its reservation of birch wood and abundance of game, including roe deer and wild boar.

The Jastrebac holiday centre is located at an altitude of 480m and boasts good accommodation facilities. An artificial lake enables swimming in summer months, and in winter the guests have at their disposal a ski lift leading to a 300m-long ski lane. The ski lane is in the novice category and is situated at the altitude of 560 m. At the foot of Jastrebac there are numerous healing mineral springs, Ribarska Banja (Fisherman's Spa) with a modern rehabilitation centre, Lomnica "mineral water", Belovoda mineral waters, etc.

The 'Veliki Jastrebac' (Great Jastrebac) hunting ground was named after the mountain and covers the majority of its territory. It is 23km from Kruševac.

In the central part of the mountain, deep in the Lomnica river valley, there is a breeding area for game with a high trophy value. Hunters can hunt deer, wild boar and roebuck. Within the hunting ground there is a holiday area, lake and catering facilities, hunter's house and other hunting-technical facilities satisfying the standards of hunting tourism.

The proximity of Kopaonik Mountain, developed road infrastructure and accessibility of roads, make the 'Veliki Jastrebac' hunting ground an attractive destination year round. Kruševac and its surroundings offer the possibility to sightsee numerous cultural-historical monuments that originated when Kruševac was the capital of Serbia.

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Useful information: Tourist organisation of the Kruševac Municipality Miloja Zakića 3, 37000 Kruševac Phone: 037/ 38 388, Fax: 037/ 39 055 Hotel TRAYAL Jastrebac Phone: 037 873 586, Phone/fax: 037 26 510 Veliki Jastrebac Lumber camp "Rasina" JNA no. 18, 37000 Kruševac Phone: 037/ 21 519, 420 750, fax: 037/ 420 750 e-mail: turistks@ptt.yu KRAGUJEVAC Kragujevac is the economic, cultural, educational and political centre of Šumadija and Pomoravlje. Situated in the middle of Serbia, some 140km south of Belgrade (E10 Motorway), this city of 180,000 inhabitants has a rich history.

Jastrebac’s birch wood reservation

Travel & Tourism

Kragujevac In Kragujevac we suggest you visit Milošev konak (Miloš's castle), the National Museum, the historic Gymnasium, built between 1885 and 1887, and Joakim Vujić Theatre, established in 1835. One should also take time out to visit the old Assembly in the church yard, built 1859 - 1860.

We also recommend you visit the Memorial Park "Šumarice", dedicated to the professors and pupils of Kragujevac who were executed in World War Two, (phone: 034/ 332-089), and the Aquarium of freshwater fish from the whole world (working hours: 10.00-18.00, open every day except Monday).

Useful information: TOURIST ORGANISATION OF KRAGUJEVAC Kralja Prvog Karađorđevića 98 34000 KRAGUJEVAC Phone: 034/332-172, 334-686 Fax: 034/335-302 www.kragujevac.org.yu National Museum Phone: 034/ 331-782 Working hours: 10.00-17.00, weekends: 10.00-14.00 Hotel President Janka Veselinovića no.52 E-mail: president@ptt.yu www.pansion-president.com Phone: 034 305 935 Fax: 034 305 936 KRALJEVO Kraljevo, lying on the banks of the river Ibar some 172km from Belgrade, is one of the most beautiful cities of Central Serbia. This, the administrative, cultural and trade centre of Raška County, was given its royal name in 1882 by King Milan Obrenović himself, and the city’s Royal coat of arms - seven golden royal crowns, stemmed from the legend of the "seven-necked Žiča", the archbishop's seat and the crowning church of medieval Serbian rulers. The town has had a long and tumultuous past, witnessed by numerous cultural-historical monuments from medieval and modern history.

Thanks to the beneficial geographical position of the town, its proximity to the rivers Ibar, Western Morava, Ribnica, Lopatnica and Studenica, and closeness to several spas, mountains, arranged beach on Ibar and many old towns and monasteries, Kraljevo is rightly classed as one of Serbia's most attractive tourist towns. Mountains Kopaonik, Goč, Čemerno, Radočelo and Golija, rich in vegetation and various game, are renowned for their good mountaineering terrains, skiing, hunting and fishing grounds.

Studenica is 61km from Kraljevo, and 236km from Belgrade (Ibarska arterial road). The surroundings of Studenica are characterised by a beneficial climate, exquisite natural beauties, and the clear,

trout-rich river Studenica. This spiritual and secular centre of medieval Serbia is surrounded by numerous monasteries: Studenica, Gradac, Pavlica, Sopoćani, Đurdevi Stupovi, Petrova Church, Ljubostinja, Kalenić, as well as numerous spas: Vrnjačka, Gornja Trepča (Upper Trepča), Mataruška, Bogutovačka, Jošanička. With its temples, towers and castles, Studenica has preserved its primary function and, as a first class legally protected monument, it was added to UNESCO's List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage Sites in 1986. Žiča Monastery is situated in the village of Kruševici, on the road between Kraljevo and Mataruška Spa. Founded by King Stefan Prvovenčani, the construction of the main monastic church - dedicated to the Resurrection of Christ - started around 1206, and was concluded before 1217, when the founder received the royal crown from Rome. Here, Saint Sava - the first archbishop of the independent Serbian church, which gained independence in 1219 - established the seat of the Serbian church, crowned his brother king and ordained bishops of the newly established eparchies. Stephen's heirs, his sons Radoslav and Vladislav, were also crowned there. Archbishop Arsenije, the first heir of Saint Sava as head of the Serbian church, was also ordained there.

The medieval town of Maglič is situated on the right bank of the Ibar, around 16km south of Kraljevo. It is classed as one of the most beautiful monuments of Serbian medieval military architecture. Maglič was a significant stronghold for defending monasteries of Žiča and Studenica.

After falling under Turkish occupation, it became the administrative seat of a wider area. The town was significant in the time of the Vienna War (1683-1699) and the Second Serbian uprising.

Must Sees: NATIONAL MUSEUM Trg Sv. Save 2 (2, Saint Sava Square) Phone/fax: 036 315 350, 337 960 E-mail: museum-kraljevo@tron-inter.net For lovers of healthy food and traditional Serbian dishes served in earthenware and wooden pots in an authentic log cabin environment, we recommend you visit: ETHNIC HOUSE "POTKOVICA" (HORSESHOE), in the village of Miločaj, Ibarska main road, near the exit from Kraljevo towards Belgrade Phone/fax: 036 855 556 E-mail: etno-kuca@tron-inter.net Useful information: Tourist organisation of the Kraljevo Municipality Trg Srpskih ratnika 25, 36000 Kraljevo Telephone/fax: 036/ 311 192, 316 000 E-mail: jutok@org.yu www.jutok.org.yu Hotel ĐERDAN, Žiča (3km from Kraljevo, towards Žiča Monastery) Phone/fax: 036 816 250, 817 417, 817 350

Žiča Monastery

Travel & Tourism HOTEL OMORIKA (SPRUCE) 31250 Bajina Basta, Tara Phone: 381-(0)31/ 852-566; 851-169 Distance from Belgrade: 254 km Tarmac road routes:Belgrade - Valjevo - Bajina Bašta - Kremna - Višegrad Belgrade - Čačak - Užice - Kremna - Mokra Gora - Višegrad Recommended Weekend Breaks

Tara Canyon TARA MOUNTAIN Tara is one of the most beautiful mountains in Serbia. Situated in the thick forested region of western Serbia, Tara includes rolling meadows, rocky outcrops, ravines and numerous caves.

The mountain rises to an altitude of 1,200m ASL and includes many hiking trails. For sportsmen and those who enjoy active breaks, there is a trim track (1.6km), football pitch and open terrains for other sporting activities.

During winter, guests can take to the ski slopes situated alongside The Beli bor (White Pine) Hotel. There are also two ski lifts, the shorter of which (150m) is for children and novices, and the longer of which (450m) is for experienced recreational skiers.

Tara Mountain has the densest woodland of any of Serbia's mountains, with forests covering an area of 19,750 hectares. The mountain was made famous by renowned botanist Josif Pančić, who discovered a unique species of conifer in the forests. This tree and its habitat has become a subject of national pride, but also a subject of interest to the global scientific community.

The variety of habitats and preserved vegetation have enabled the survival of numerous animal species, such as brown bear, chamois, white grouse, golden eagle and others.

The famous River Drina and nearby lake close to Perućac is rich in many species of fish, particularly trophy specimens of catfish. The slopes of Tara represent a temporary or permanent residence for over 100 species of bird, such as the aforementioned golden eagle, griffon vulture, peregrine falcon, great owl and white grouse.

Woods, canyons and river banks preserve the trails of prehistoric, antique, Roman and Byzantine culture. An especially significant protected historical monument is the 18th century Rača Monastery, constructed at the behest of King Dragutin. The construction of the monastery is confirmed by the Tronoša and Peć chronicles. The monastery was used to hide Miroslav's gospel - a unique UNESCO-protected cultural artefact of exquisite literature - during WWII. Tourist information and accommodation: Tourist-sports centre Bajina Bašta Milana Obrenovića 34/III, 31250 Bajina Bašta Phone/fax: 031/ 865-370, 865-900 e-mail: office@stc-bajinabasta.com www.stc-bajinabasta.com Tara National Park Milenka Topalovića 3, 31250 Bajina Bašta Phone: 031/ 851 445, 853 644 E-mail: nptara@ptt.yu www.tara.org.yu HOTELS: HOTEL BELI BOR (WHITE PINE) 31250 Bajina Basta, Tara Phone: 381-(0)31/ 851-357; 808-031 Distance from Belgrade: 256.5 km

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Aranđelovac district covers an area of 376 km, and is home to 50,000 residents in 17 settlements. Aranđelovac town boasts spa facilities including hotels, mineral water springs and an open-air swimming pool.

Close to Aranđelovac is the historic village of Orašac, where the agreement to begin the First Serbian Uprising [against the Ottoman occupation] was signed, and where the first action of the Great Serbian Revolution took place. These facts have ensured that Orašac has gone down in local history as a sacred place of Serbian freedom. Orašac, as a historical site, has been categorised as an area of irreplaceable culture and extraordinary significance to the history and culture of Serbia. The First Serbian Uprising Fund ensures that the cultural value of Orašac is maintained. The Fund has helped to finance the construction of a commemorative school and fountain marking the agreement to commence the First Serbian Uprising and the choice that Kara?or?e would lead the Serbian forces.

Recommended accommodation in Orašac comes in the form of Karađorđev Vajat (Karageorge's outbuilding).

Aranđelovac Orašac 70km from Belgrade Restaurant/Inn Karađorđev Vajat (Karageorge's outbuilding) Language spoken: English Tel: +381 (0)34 721 429 +381 (0)64 165 27 25 Tourist Office of Aran?elovac Kneza Miloša 34300 Aranđelovac Tel: +381 (0)34 724 097 Fax: +381 (0)34 725 575 Email: office@bukovickabanja.com url:www.bukovickabanja.com Traditional Orašac recipe: LAMB SOUP 1/2 kg of lamb, chopped into cubes, assorted soup greens, a few leeks, a pinch of pepper, one bay leaf, salt.

Slowly cook the meat in two litres of water with soup greens, leek and spices. When the meat becomes soft, take out the greens and mash them, strain the soup. Return the mashed greens to the soup and add an egg mixed with milk. Before serving, add a spoonful of kajmak (rich milk curd). •

Classified

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Italian conductor, Giovanni Antonini, directs the orchestra and soloist Enrique Onofri in Belgrade's National Theatre on 9th December.

H.E. Gerhard Jandl, Austrian Ambassador in Belgrade, toasts his country's trade minister, Martin Bartenstein, at a 1st December reception in honour of the Vienna State Opera's concert in Belgrade.

Photographer Danijel Grujić pictured at Belgrade's Atelje 212 after winning first prize for the 'best picture' of this year's Ženska trka (women's race). The award ceremony followed the official opening of an exhibition of photographs of Belgrade's "most attractive" happenings in 2005.

British Ambassador in Belgrade, H.E. David Gowan, discusses police dog handlers with Serbian Interior Minister, Dragan Jočić, on 13th December.

NEWLY ACCREDITED: H.E. Maciej Szymanski H.E. Ambassador Maciej Szymanski, newly accredited Ambassador of Poland to SCG, arrives in Belgrade after serving as deputy director of the Polish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and director of the Consular Directorate for Diaspora.

Ambassador Szymanski, who is fluent in Serbian, received an M.A. degree in Slavic Philology before spending several years in Academia. He became a diplomat in 1992 and, since then, has devoted his time mostly to the huge Polish Diaspora. In 1998 he served as the Ambassador to Slovenia (until 2002) and Bosnia & Herzegovina (until 2001).

Ambassador Szymanski is married, has four children and is a fan of bird watching and photographing nature.

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French Foreign Minister Phillipe Douste-Blazy (centre) inspects Belgrade's French Cultural Centre with French Ambassador Hugues Pernet (right), during his 9th December visit to Serbia.

Finnish Ambassador in Belgrade, H.E. Anna-Maija Korpi, welcomes Bulgarian Ambassador to SCG, H.E. Georgi Dimitrov, to a 6th December reception marking Finnish Independence Day.

Art lovers enjoy opening night at an exhibition of the best contemporary French photography in Belgrade's French Cultural Centre on 12th December.

Greek Ambassador in Belgrade, H.E. Christos Panagopoulos, opens an exhibition of young artists' works inspired by Greece in the Suluj Terazije Gallery on 5th December. The exhibition showed the works of Dragan Marković, Mirjana Đošić, Marija Pantović and Vladimir Mijailović.

NEWLY ACCREDITED: H.E. Robert McDougall The newly accredited Canadian ambassador in Belgrade first joined the Canadian Department of External Affairs in 1973, after graduating in History at the University of Victoria.

Between 1973 and 1998, Ambassador McDougall served his country in the diplomatic fields of environment, political relations and economics in Ottowa, Washington, Beijing, New York, Brussels and Tokyo.

In 1998 he became Director, Non-Proliferation, Arms Control and Disarmament Division, a post he held until 2005.

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Serbian International Trade Relations Minister, Milan Parivodić, joins a host of high profile guests in bidding a fond farewell to outgoing Italian Ambassador in Belgrade, H.E. Antonio Zanardi Landi, in an Italian Embassy reception on 14th December.

Chief U.N. war crimes prosecutor Carla del Ponte chats conspiratorially with Serbian PM Koštunica on 8th December.

That same day, Croatian General Ante Gotovina is arrested in the Canary Islands after four years on the run.

NEWLY ACCREDITED: H.E. Delmi Boudjemaa The newly accredited Ambassador of Algeria to SCG, H.E. Delmi Boudjemaa, started his diplomatic career in 1978, becoming chief of the Bureau of Organisation of African Unity, Department for Africa, in the Algerian Ministry of Foreign Affairs after obtaining a diploma of the Senior National Administration School, diplomatic department.

Ambassador Boudjemaa, who speaks Arabic, English and French, has served in both Ethiopia, and Tokyo. He arrives in Belgrade from the post of general director of the Directorate for Africa in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

Ambassador Boudjemaa is married and has three children.

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Left to right: SCG Foreign Minister, Vuk Drašković, Princess Katherine, Crown-Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević and Danica Drašković, pictured at the royal family's 'Slava' (Saint Day) on 13th December.

Members of the German Business Association pictured at an explanatory press conference in Belgrade's Media Centre on 8th December. The conference saw the announcing of the results of a survey on the theme of "Business encirclement in Serbia".

Children and adults alike enjoy the candlelit Humanitarian evening of the Carter School to raise money for the children of the Anton Skale School on 14th December.

Partizan Belgrade Coach, Juergen Roeber, discusses Germany's luck of the draw with countryman H.E. Andreas Zobel, German Ambassador in Belgrade, during 9th December's final draw for the World Cup 2006 Finals, to be held in Germany next summer.

Lucian Ristea, Charge d'affaires of the Romanian Embassy in Belgrade, addresses the guests of a 1st December reception in Belgrade's Hotel Hyatt marking Romanian Independence Day. Italian Ambassador to SCG, H.E. Antonio Zanardi Landi, speaks to conductor Giovanni Antonini at a pre-concert press conference on 9th December.

NEWLY ACCREDITED: H.E. Tadashi Nagai Ambassador Nagai graduated from Tokyo's International Christian University in 1968 as a Bachelor of Liberal Arts, majoring in Social Science. Between August ‘68 and June ‘71, during his first of three tenures at the embassy of Japan in Yugoslavia, he specialised in the Serbo-Croat language and studied the Yugoslav self-management economic system at the University of Belgrade and the University of Zagreb.

In addition to serving in Yugoslavia (1968-75, 1980-83 and 1998-'01), Nagai has also served as First Secretary of the Embassy of Japan in Australia (1983-86), Counsellor of the Embassy of Japan in Germany (1994-98) and Consul General of Japan in Portland, Oregon, USA (2002-2005).

Ambassador Nagai has been decorated with the German Order of the Great Cross (1999) and the Yugoslav Order of Yugoslav Flag (2002), and is an Honorary citizen of the State of Oregon.

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Shopping

Indulge yourself in a new year PalmOne LifeDrive Despite a mediocre showing in recent tests, the LifeDrive is the most exciting thing to happen in the world of palmtops since, like, ever. It's the first proper UK handheld to feature a hard drive, and PalmOne has done us proud by sticking in 4GB for our DivX vids, MP3s and documents. The hardware's beefy, but the build quality's in luxury watch territory and, as a doit-all device, it can't be beaten.

The killer feature: that built-in 4GB hard drive gives you plenty of flexibility when it comes to storage. Ah yes, and that razor sharp screen…

Price: €400

Philips Streamium Wireless Music Centre WACS700 Wireless multi-room music just got a whole lot easier. Just take the main unit out of the box, stick a CD into its slot-loading drive, hit record and it’s ripped to the 40GB hard disk, ready to be played via the built-in NXT speakers Price: €890

Apple Powerbook G4

Nokia N90 The mobile phone industry is trying its best to rival low-end digital cameras and the latest Nokia might just do the trick. The Nokia N90 multimedia boasts a Carl Zeiss lens, 2 megapixel resolution and is Bluetooth-enabled for wireless printing. The interface looks quite advanced for a mobile phone and the N90 also provides on-phone editing capabilities.

Price: €690

This is a God-like laptop, packing enough portable power to annex a small continent. A 1.67GHz G4 processor lies inside the 17in and 15in models and Airport Extreme is installed as standard for easy WiFi action Price: €1,500

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Shopping

Logitech diNovo Laser Providing Bluetooth where none existed before, the super-cool diNovo package also deals a killer blow to desktops with the slickest keyboard and mouse package ever to connect seamlessly to a PC. The new version packs Bluetooth 2.0 with Enhanced Data Rate to turn your PC into a full Bluetooth hub. But its crowning glory is the unrivalled accuracy of its MX1000 laser mouse Price: €890

Sony DSC-T7

Join us, kneel down and pay homage to the camera that created a whole new category – the pancake compact.

At 15mm thick, the T7 can’t quite claim to be ‘credit card thin’, but it can brag about fitting perfectly into a pair of Levi’s. And the killer feature: a smooth internal zoom, VGA movies, pin-sharp 2.5in LCD and user friendly scene modes. What more could you possibly need?

Price: €375

Sagem Axium HD-D45 Eek - an intruder. This is not an LCD or a plasma screen, but a sneaky DLP rear projector. But it more than justifies itself in this company, offering 45-inch, HD, 720p images for less than £1,500. It may be thicker than an LCD or plasma, but not by much Price: €2,000

Nikon D70s Set your photographic sights high, break that promise you made to your bank manager and leap - the D70s is a great introduction to semi-pro shooting.

Start-up's cheetah-fast, shutter lag is barely perceptible; battery life's good and the 6.1MP pics are superb.

Price: €2,000

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Shopping

Hitachi DZ-MV780E

Hitachi's 780E DVD recorder is a force to be reckoned with indeed. The 780E's 1.3megapixel sensor provides sharp and colourful images, and it records onto DVD-R and DVD-RAM discs, which can slot straight into your DVD player.

Price: €720

Denon TU-1800DAB

Pure had topped the hi-fi table for far too long, thought Denon, and so it put out a DAB tuner to kill all others. The TU1800DAB totes FM as well as noise-free digital signals… and it's a stormer. Sound, naturally, is top-notch, but so are build and finish - check out the brushed fascia. Lovely.

16 Mio 269 GPS/MP3 Player

Price: €370

Sony Ericsson W800i A mobile tour de force from the SE boys. Not only a fine phone, but also the world's first Wa l k m a n - b r a n d e d handset. It sports an iPod-busting 30-hour battery life with the phone features off and 15 hours when on. And it's orange. We like orange.

Price: €340

The Mio 269 is an interesting blend of GPS and Sat Nav with a beautiful screen and a hard drive with the added ability to play MP3s. So, do you really need an MP3 player that does navigation and vice versa? Why not?

Price: €370

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Shopping

Monark Anaerobic Test Ergometer Monark Anaerobic Test Ergometer is a new bike, though it still has the traditional characteristics of a Monark bike! A brand new frame with a softer design, but with improved performance in stability and rigidity! This new Monark boasts an electric meter, shows pedal-turns per minute, heart rate in beats per minute and intended cycling speed in km per hour Price: €2,700

Robosapien V2 Oakley THUMP 2™

The next version of Robosapien will break the one metre mark, carry objects the size of newspapers and be controlled entirely via a birosized remote control. That's what ex-NASA engineer-cum-gadgeteer Mark Tilden says about the burping robot he's created Price: €295

The world’s first digital music eyewear is now available in a new design with the option of even greater memory. Built around the hard-edged style of GASCAN™ eyewear, THUMP 2™ offers memory storage up to 1 gigabyte. That’s 240 songs in a fully integrated design that frees you from dangling cords and wires

Sony PSP

Price: €300 What else did you expect to find here - a Game & Watch? While we love our DS and Micro, the PSP is the most immersive, advancedlooking and sounding handheld console to land in our hands Price: €265

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Fashion

Fireworks of Colours & Ideas he last year has been marked by the releasing of some excellent works by young domestic fashion designers who are already established on the local fashion scene.

Some of these designers, such as Bata Spasojevic, designed complete collections for fashion houses - in Spasojevic's case Centrotextil - while other designers, such as the Prokovic sisters and Sla?ana Pantovi? (designers and owner of P.S. Fasion), presented high fashion looks of their own boutiques.

The majority of Serbia's most renowned designers also contributed to the year's Belgrade Fashion Weeks (held in April and October), and their cult exhibitions of domestic and foreign designers. The 'Weeks' were successfully organised once again by fashion studio Click, which has organised the events since 1996.

Among the most lauded domestic designers contributing to the Fashion Weeks were Doda Komad, Darko Kostic, sisters Stevancevic (Kent Explora), Roksanda Ilincic, and Boris Nikolic. The Belgrade public were also given the chance to view the latest designs of Max Mara, Pal Zileri, and other renewed international designers.

This month, CorD presents some of the best designs of 2005.

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Max Mara

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Pal Zileri - March

Fashion

L thierry le pin

Pal Zileri - September

CorD | January 2006

Roksanda Ilincic

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Fashion

Doda Komad

Bata Spasojevic

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Darko Kostic

Fashion

EXTREMEINTIMO

Jelena i Svetlana Prokovic

Kent Explora - Sestre Stevancevic

CorD | February 2005

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Cuisine

Emilie Irwin works as an Associate Legal Officer at the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees in Belgrade. A resident of Belgrade for over 18 months, she can often be found lazing by the rivers on Sunday afternoons

Konoba kod Goce i Renata

Highly Recommended by…Emilie Irwin Photo by Jelena Mandić

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atch of the Day…Sunday afternoons are meant for lazy dining. All you need is good company, an expandable waistline and a cosy location where you can divulge all the intrigues of the week. Add to the equation a probable hangover and the legacy of all those big Serbian dinners and what you're looking for is a shot of fresh-air and a light lunch to soothe you through the final hours of the weekend.

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Luckily for me, Belgrade's Pančevo riverbank has just the answer: Konoba kod Goce i Renate, which has served freshly caught fish from the Danube to its perky clientele for the past four years. The restaurant has achieved recent fame in the local press, thanks to the valiant efforts of the owner to rescue desperate Belgraders who jump off the Pančevo Bridge into the river below. But the main lure of the eatery is its offerings of river fish sourced locally by its owner, whose boat can be seen daily fishing the waters by the bridge.

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Just getting to the restaurant is an adventure worthy of getting you up on a Sunday morning. Leaving the comfort zone of Belgrade's smarter districts, head over the Pančevo Bridge and take the first right-turn into a small dusty village. Hereafter you are at the mercy of your taxidriver, as the pot-holed road winds through a rubbishstrewn landscape of mud and misty swamps until you reach two glowing dining rooms and a magnificent terrace right on the water-front.

The scores of fish-loving Belgraders filling the brick and wood dining halls provide proof that the journey is well worthwhile. Konoba's down-to-earth appeal makes it a magnet for city-dwellers wanting to spend a relaxed few hours by the river with a great view over one of the lesser known parts of town.

So busy was the restaurant when we visited that when one high-profile guest and his two tables of bodyguards left, clearing half our dining room in one swoop, the empty space filled up with enthusiastic diners in just a few minutes. Impressive, particularly given that Konoba is so hard to find.

Konoba's menu is simple and limited to freshly caught river fish. The chef doesn't dally with fancy ingredients, opting instead for hearty classics that are cooked and presented in an unfussy, traditional way. Rather than ordering a la carte, my dining companion Buba and I gave freerange to the kitchen to cook-up a selection of house specialities and, at the suggestion of the waiting staff, chose a light local house wine to compliment our meal.

A generous scoop of fish pâté, accompanied by devilishly garlicky olives and Serbian white cheese, made for a simple but appetising starter. Zesty 'vitamin salad' added an additional shot of colour to our plates. However, the first big treat from the kitchen was a deliciously creamy

Cuisine

Catfish Paprikas, oozing with goodness and packed with tender flaking fish, mushrooms and red peppers that melted in the mouth. This dish was a real winter warmer the perfect pick-me-up for a dreary December afternoon.

Moving on to mains, the plate of mixed fish proved a worthy competitor to the eponymous Serbian mixed grill. This huge platter of freshly cooked fish boasted specialities such as sesame-crusted catfish and squid stuffed with bacon and cheese. Buba and I preferred the smoked fish, particularly the delicately fragranced smoked trout and the more strongly flavoured deep-fried catfish. A bowl of fresh home-made pickles and a rustic potato salad made excellent accompaniments to this frenzy of river-fish.

Deserts are for the seriously sweet-toothed. Sugar drenched tulumba, nutty suva pita and creamy fresh fruit tartlet provide a sugar fix that goes straight to the heart.

Konoba kod Goce i Renata offers a dining experience that's a far-cry from the styledriven restaurants that are opening all over town. It's the only restaurant on this stretch of the river; one of the handful of places bridging Belgrade's geographical divide between the bar and restaurant saturated Stari Grad, and the gastronomic void on the other side of the water. All the contrasts of Belgrade are here; the elegant terrace nestled next to an industrial site, the beautiful view over a neglected part of town; the owner who saves locals from drowning whilst catching fish to serve to his cheerful well-heeled clientele.

Admittedly, this review is probably ill-timed. Konoba is the perfect place for lazy summer afternoons, when the vast sun-soaked terrace overlooking the river must undoubtedly come into its own. Even so, the restaurant does a good job at creating a snug atmosphere to languorously pass time all year around.

On the first clear day of spring, when all the snow has melted and the sun has made a decisive break through the clouds, hop in a taxi and make your way down to Konoba for a slow afternoon by the river. Go for the specials, expect informality, and enjoy lavish portions of fresh and simply cooked river fish. •

----------------------------------------------------------------opening hours: Monday to Sunday 10am - 12am

Konoba Kod Goce i Renata Pančevački put 2r 11210 Krnjača, Belgrade

Reservation hotline: 063 774 7791 url: www.restorankonoba.com

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Quotes...Quotes...Quotes...

Bloody Punishment Partizan footballer Đorđe Pantić has been sentenced to 30-hours community service at the Serbian Blood Transfusion Institute. Pantić is the first Serbian player ever to be punished by the courts for beating an opponent on the pitch.

"I received my verdict and now I'm going to serve my time there," said Pantić, adding that he doesn't expect to be engaged as a nurse, due to his lack of professional training. He will, rather, wait for the Institute to suggest the nature of his punishment.

Pantić must serve his 30 hours within 120 days of sentencing.

Amused by Union Activism The Serbian Government's Economy and Finance Board rejected a draft law on free stock distribution before privatisation, proposed jointly by 24 public company trade unions.

Minister of Labour, Slobodan Lalović, said it was highly unlikely the bill would find its way onto the Parliament's agenda. "I must say that I didn't even pay attention to that proposal. The whole activity of these unions amused me, "said Lalović.

Several Serbian government officials, including Serbian Finance Minister Mlađan Dinkić, said that employees could count on up to 10% of the shares of these privatised companies.

Mladić documents mislaid…for three years!

President of the National Council for Co-operation with The Hague Tribunal, Serbian Ethnic Minorities and Human Rights Minister Rasim Ljajić, said that officials of the Council suddenly found seven pages that were missing from Ratko Mladic's dossier. The happy and unexpected event happened just before the deadline given by the ICTY to the Serbian authorities to extradite Mladic. "The authorities will hold to account individuals who are found to have participated in hiding these documents," said Ljajić. The pages were found at SCG Army premises. They first went missing three years ago.

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MPs are not ordinary citizens Commenting on rising accusations of bribery against Serbian Parlament MPs, Democratic Party of Serbia representative Milos Aligrudić said that the public is not being fair to MPs if it is taking for granted that their representatives are using official positions to earn some extra privileges. "There is not a single MP in the world that is ascetic". MP privileges are self- explanatory, since MPs are not ordinary citizens. "The efforts of some media to compare MPs with ordinary employees are misguided. It may be formally true, but an MPs position is a temporary function, with no guarantee that these people will be able to find any job and secure their existence in the environment in which they live."

Who leads Serbia?

According to the Centre for free Elections and Democracy (CESID), citizens are growing increasingly disappointed with public institutions in Serbia.

CESID's latest survey shows that just a fourth of citizens have trust in institutions; citizens are putting a sign of equality between privatisation and robbery, and two thirds are displeased with the privatisationprocess.

Professor at Belgrade's Faculty of Political Science, Zoran Stojiljković, said that a fourth of citizens believe that power is in the hands of institutions, while the remainder of those polled believe that Serbia is led by criminals. "Everybody lost [the support]. About nine per cent of citizens believe that Serbia is ruled by the government and political parties, three per cent of them believe that Serbia is led by Prime Minister Vojislav Koštunica, and just one per cent of them believe that the true leader of Serbia is the Serbian president Boris Tadić," said Stojiljkovic.

Overemotional Relations Serbia & Montenegro as a state is taking its relations with Russia too emotionally, warned SCG ambassador in Moscow Milan Roćen. "Too often SCG is expecting miracles from Russia.

That is the case with possible Russian involvement in Kosovo negotiations," said Roćen, adding that the Russian influence and its standpoint on the Kosovo issue would depend on the appropriate measure of its own interests and SCG's expectations.

Quotes...Quotes...Quotes...

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Dear Editor,

Patience Straining, Support Vanishing Both the EU and the U.S. support Serbia in its efforts to join the EU, but they are losing their tempers and patience because of the lack of cooperation with The Hague Tribunal and the rising radicalism in the country, warned SCG Foreign Minister Vuk Drašković.

Croatia is knocking on the open doors of the EU and NATO after it arrested ICTY indictee Ante Gotovina. "Unfortunately, SCG is going backwards, which is not surprising if one knows that those who have to find Hague inductees are members of the former Milosevic regime," said Drašković, adding that Milošević's people are making their way back into power as a result of SCG's further isolation and mutual disagreements between the partner republics at the state level.

Overpaid for Overpriced Banks General Director of Raiffeisenbank, Belgrade, Oliver Roegl, said that he would never pay for Serbian banks the sort of money some foreign banks have paid for acquisitions in the Serbian banking sector of late. "These multiplicities were not reached almost anywhere in the Eastern and Central Europe. My guess is that some of the buyers overestimated the potential of Serbian banks," said Roegl, adding that some banks which paid a lot for a relatively small share of the market would soon discover that they've made serious mistakes.

Father, son and prodigal son Serbian President and Prime Minister, Boris Tadić and Vojislav Koštunica, have to continue cohabitation. "It is in the interests of the state and its survival," said academic Ljubomir Tadić, father of President Tadic and long-time intellectual inspiration and mentor of Prime Minister Koštunica. "It is obvious that Koštunica and Tadić have already reached that conclusion, since they have formed the team for negotiations on the status of Kosovo "said Tadić Sr., adding that disputes between the parties they are representing should be put aside.

The December edition of your most respected magazine hosts an interview with the Turkish Ambassador to the State Union of Serbia & Montenegro. Among others, the Turkish Ambassador referred to the Republic of Cyprus in line with the old - style Turkish manner (the manner that the Ambassador is trying to prove that Turkey denounces); he addressed my county as "Southern Cyprus" Turkey's invented term.

Turkey retains the tragic uniqueness of being the sole state among the member states of the United Nations that does not recognise the republic of Cyprus, 37% of the territory of which it has illegally occupied with its military forces since 1974.

At this point, let me remind you that from 1st May 2004 the Republic of Cyprus is a member of the European Union.

The Turkish Ambassador expressed in his interview the willingness and readiness of his country to fulfil all its obligations towards the European Union in order to become a member of the Union. However, many of these obligations are related to the transformation of Turkey's attitude towards the Republic of Cyprus.

Among them are: i) The EU's expectations that Turkey will sign the Adaptation Protocol extending its existing Association Agreement with the EU to all new Member States, including the Republic of Cyprus, ii) Turkey is recalled for its support for the efforts to achieve a comprehensive settlement of the Cyprus problem and progress in the normalisation of bilateral relations with Cyprus.

Furthermore, in the interview the Ambassador of Turkey described the 1974 invasion of the Republic of Cyprus by Turkey as a "peace intervention". Let the General Assembly's Resolution 3212 (November 1, 1974) of the United Nations talk about the "peace" that Turkey brought to the island. "The General Assembly, having considered the question of Cyprus, is gravely concerned about the constitution of the Cyprus crisis, which constitutes a threat to international peace and security: 1. Calls upon all states to respect the sovereignty, independence, territorial integrity and non-alignment of the Republic of Cyprus and to refrain from all acts and inventions directed against it; 2. Urges the speedy withdrawal of all foreign armed forces and foreign military presence and personnel from the Republic of Cyprus and the cessation of all foreign interference in its affairs."

In addition, Resolution 550 (1984), adopted by the Security Council on 11th May, says: "The Security Council, Gravely concerned about the further secessionist acts in the occupied part of the Republic of Cyprus, which are in violation of resolution 541 (1983), namely the purported exchange of Ambassadors between Turkey and the legally invalid "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" and the contemplated holding of a "constitutional referendum" and "elections", as well as by other actions or threats of actions aimed at further consolidating the purported independent state and the division of Cyprus, … condemns all secessionist actions, including the purported exchange of Ambassador between Turkey and the Turkish Cypriot leadership, declares them illegal and invalid and calls for their immediate withdrawal."

At the end of my letter, let me quote a part of the statement by the President of the Republic Mr. Tassos Papadopoulos, at the 60th session of the United Nations General Assembly: "We have always hoped that Turkey's accession course to the European Union would radically shift its mentality - a prospect that would mark the single biggest development on the Cyprus problem in decades. The fulfilment of Turkey's obligations emanating from its accession course to the European Union will rid the Cyprus problem of some of its most intractable components and facilitate a settlement. Simultaneously, the existence of the UN negotiating framework cannot serve as a pretext for postponing or refusing to fulfil these obligations."

Sincerely, Charis Moritsis Embassy of the Republic of Cyprus Charge d'Affaires a.i.

CorD | January 2006

93

ENDLESS IMITATION - Part Two of the trilogy

10th instalment

PIGS DO NOT EAT BANANA SKINS

Photo “Gloria” archive

Tim mothyy Byford for CorD

Andrew's marital problems become further complicated by his falling intellectually in love with his daughter's form mistress and accepting her advice to discover himself through sitting back and reflecting on what the human race has achieved over the centuries and bequeathed us lesser mortals... his was going to be the beginning of a new life. But where did I start? The British Council library didn't have much of a selection of non-British authors, but the American library did. I decided to start my renaissance from the top - with Tolstoy. I warmed up with a volume of his short stories, and after being deeply moved by Master and Man, humbled by The Three Hermits, and brought firmly down to size by How Much Land Does a Man Need?, I found myself, perhaps for the first time in my life, with something of an idea of what it actually meant to be alive.

I then decided to go the whole hog and attack War and Peace.

I'd never read a book with well over a thousand pages before, and to start with I set myself a daily target of fifty pages. By the time Pierre Bezuhov married Helene and became the fortunate possessor, as people said, of a beautiful wife and millions of money, Tolstoy himself had torn down my paper target and I stopped counting the pages and completed the book in a little less than two weeks. I was now a reader, but, more important, I was a thinker, a philosopher; a lover of wisdom.

"Try something different now. Try Sartre - Nausea, for example," suggested Jasmina. I had gone into Ana's classroom ostensibly to find out how Ana's writing was progressing. I tried Nausea - and something happened to me. I became confused.

Having accepted Tolstoy's advice to renounce a freedom that does not exist and to recognise a dependence of which we are not personally conscious, I now found myself possessing nothing but my body and desperately wanting to be free. I started being aware of how different parts of my body behaved - OK, there was one part of my body the behaviour of which I'd been only too aware of since I was thirteen, but I'd never really noticed exactly what my hands did when I held a pencil, picked my nose or opened a tin of sardines; or that when making love, my toes clenched tightly at the moment of orgasm. I started keeping a diary and writing down everything that happened from day to day - every sordid detail. At least I did until I read Dostoyevsky's Notes From Underground and Felicity's hero convinced me that it was better to do nothing. Conscious inertia!

When David and I went down with bad coughs soon after I'd started The Magic Mountain, I was convinced we both had tuberculosis and it was fortunate for Ana's sweet blonde school friend Jovana that she was only eight when I read Lolita. Ana and David gained considerably from my reading The Way of All Flesh as, realising that children need not be punished for the iniquity of their fathers unto the third and fourth generation, I stopped smacking them and started treating them as equals - until The Little Prince convinced me that they were infinitely superior. It was a mistake

T

94

CorD | January 2006

to start reading Hesse's The Prodigy just after David started school, as it just made me acutely frustrated at having to stand helplessly by and watch the State and school eagerly occupied in nipping in the bud my son's profound and noble spirit.

One evening, while I was taking a break from fiction and reading a biography of Isadora Duncan, Masha returned from the studio in one of her brown studies. The burnt goulash that I had forgotten on the stove didn't help matters.

"You're overdoing the reading, Andrew - your eyes are all bloodshot. And it's not only that - you've changed. You're all distant - at least with me you are. The children adore you, I can see that. But you're not the Andrew I married."

No, of course I wasn't. Because the Andrew Masha married hadn't been the true Andrew. Andrew was in the process of discovering who he really was. But how was I going to explain this to someone whose picture of me was firmly painted in oils on the canvas of her conditioned mind.

"Of course I'm not the Andrew you married. I'm nearly ten years older - I'm balder, I'm fatter - and now it looks as though I need glasses. I'm nearly forty, for heaven's sake."

She would just have to paint a 'New Realist' picture of me… To add me to the world of things rather than look at me as a reflection of something that already existed.

"It's not that. We're all nearly ten years older. Look, I'll come straight to the point. Staying at home looking after the children isn't good for you. You're a man. You should have a job - not for the money, for your self-respect."

My self-respect? There was nothing wrong with my selfrespect. It was Masha's self-respect that needed a boost. "What does your husband do?"

"Nothing, he stays at home and looks after the children."

"Really? Poor you. Mine's a lawyer, a doctor, a university professor, an actor - you name it, he does it…"

"Well, I'm not going back into television and I'm not going to denigrate myself with amateur actors in the Children's Theatre.

They're the last thing my self-respect needs. But don't worry. Both you and Maria - not to mention Sreten - have made it quite plain that you think I'm a wet fart…"

"We don't think anything of the sort!"

"Well, as I said, don't worry. I've got something in mind."

"What?"

"That's my business."

"I think it's your wife's business as well. After all…"

"After all, it's me who keeps you…"

"I wasn't going to say that, but…"

"You mean you weren't going to say that, but it's true - is that it?"

"No, Andrew, that's not it."

But it was it. I knew it only to well. Masha had lost any respect she may have once had for me. Her parting words were: "One day you'll have to face up to the truth!"

They might just as well have been Isadora's recollections of her life with the sewing machine magnate's son, Paris Singer: "If I had only realised that the man I was with had the psychology of a spoilt child, that every word and every action of mine should have been carefully prepared to please, all might have been well."

It was obvious that all was not well between Masha and me.

Were our days numbered? It was quite evident that the ball was very much in my court. Remembering only too clearly Ken Russell's television film about Isadora Duncan, I stopped reading her biography before the hired limousine containing her children and their nurse plunged into the Seine, and quickly dived into the other Russell - Bertrand, whose Conquest of Happiness had been recommended to me by a rather sweet librarian at the British Council - and she'd looked happy enough.

The most satisfying thing about Bertrand Russell is his language. Whether you agree with him or not, while reading him you can wallow in a bubble bath of captivatingly elegant eloquence. It is so beautifully written that you are beguiled into thinking it is pure wisdom. Anyway, the gist of his thesis, as I understood it, is that happiness depends partly on external circumstances and partly on oneself. I found myself wondering whether happiness really existed or whether it was just the state one finds oneself in between two periods of unhappiness. Wordsworth was convinced that the birds hopping around him experienced 'pleasure'. They probably did - but I'm sure they didn't call it 'happiness'. Perhaps happiness

"Take the mountain to Mohammed!" said Lidija. "You'll get far more pupils that way and it's better for you to get out and about."

In the event it was the pupils who decided and I found myself doing both. Having convinced me I should make something of my life, Masha turned out to be rather sceptical about my new career.

At least, she made it look like scepticism - it looked to me more like mistrust verging on paranoia. I think she was convinced I was bent on teaching English exclusively to frustrated housewives and nymphomaniacs. OK, the wife of the general manager of Yugotours could perhaps have worn a longer skirt and avoided repeating: "Oh, you're so sweet!" so loudly and frequently the very day Masha decided not to go to the studio. But it didn't take me long to organise my timetable so that my male pupils, girls under twelve and ugly women came to the flat, while I taught frustrated housewives, nymphomaniacs and nubile teenage girls in the comfort of their own homes. I discovered that Jasmina and Lidija had both been right - the students who visited me were far more serious, but it was also great to get out of the house and see how other people lived. Unfortunately, it turned out that I didn't actually have a single frustrated housewife or nymphomaniac among my adult students, but I did have several nubile teenagers whom I naturally treated with the respect they deserved, although I must confess that Mina's perky breasts meant that when trying to explain the conditional tense I found myself continually mixing up the unreal past with the impossible future.

The impossible future became the only too real present at four minutes past three on 4th May 1980 when Tito passed away. Or, to borrow from Monty Python, when Tito ceased to be, went to meet his maker (doubtful - although there were rumours that he'd received the last rights from a Catholic priest shortly before he died), rang down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. At any rate, he all-of-a-sudden became an ex-presThe impossible future became the only too real present at four ident and found himself pushing up the minutes past three on 4th May 1980 when Tito passed away. daisies. Not literally, as he was firmly in stone and marble in the Or, to borrow from Monty Python, when Tito ceased to be, went ensconced House of Flowers. to meet his maker (doubtful - although there were rumours that Having had a leg amputated earlier in the year he had been expected to conk out he'd received the last rights from a Catholic priest shortly before sooner or later, but everyone was suitably he died), rang down the curtain and joined the choir invisible. devastated, possibly more because of the is quite simply a natural state that we have destroyed through our uncertain future of Yugoslavia without him than because of any obsession with experiencing it. Anyway, after reading Bertrand real sorrow at his passing. His funeral was quite an event, with Russell I concluded that, bird or human being, whether I was Jimmy Carter's Barbara Cartland look-alike mother filing past the happy or not depended largely on myself. coffin alongside heads and tails of state from all over the globe. We The wise man will be as happy as circumstances permit and if watched the whole charade - sorry, I mean parade - on television, he finds the contemplation of the universe painful beyond a point, and then I escaped with Ana and David to Top?ider Park. The few he will contemplate something else instead. other passengers in the bus were suitably long-faced and contemI was definitely going to have to contemplate something else. plative and I doubt whether they fully appreciated the respectful I considered contemplating Lidija, the rather sweet librarian at silence being broken by David's thirst for knowledge: the British Council, but decided that if she turned me down, the "Daddy, when will the worms start to eat Tito's body?" damage to my self-confidence would be irreparable, and I would When indeed? Eight of them were soon busily pretending to be left with nothing to contemplate but my own navel. No - I run the country as the eight members of the Yugoslav Presidency would get a job. Any job. No - not any job - I would teach! I one from each republic and autonomous province. This had been would teach English.

Tito's idea and designed to ensure that if he couldn't continue to Learn English straight from the horse's mouth! rule from under his marble slab, then nobody would rule. The UÄ?ite Engleski od Engleza. eight of them took it in turns to be President of the Presidency, but They wouldn't let me put my advertisement up in the British as the Croatian president didn't trust the Serbian president who Council Library, but Lidija promised me she would show it to didn't trust the Slovenian president who didn't trust‌ - nothing anyone she thought might be interested. I also put it in the was done and the country effectively - or rather ineffectively - ruled Politika Small Ads - with a box number instead of my telephone itself. The House of Flowers became the Yugoslav Mecca and pilnumber, as I certainly didn't want Masha to know what I was up grims came from all over the country to join the two-kilometre-long to yet. I didn't really know myself what I was up to yet. Where queue to file past Josip Broz Allah. And when they'd done that they would I teach? At home? Or would I trek from one pupil to the joined the queues for milk, flour and cooking oil, which were in next, like a travelling salesman? increasingly short supply. Those whom Tito had charmed into "Teach at home, definitely!" was Jasmina's advice. "They'll lending him money suddenly wanted it back and the self-managing take the lessons more seriously, and it's less hassle if they cancel." economy started self-destructing.

To be continued...

CorD | January 2006

95

Belgrade Directory

Theatres, Music & Museums

THEATRES & VENUES • ATELJE 212, Svetogorska 21, tel. 324-7342 • BELGRADE DRAMA THEATRE, Milesevska 64a, tel. 2423-686 • BELGRADE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA, Studentski trg 11, tel. 3282 977 • BITEF THEATRE, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, tel. 3220-608 • DADOV, Djure Salaja 6/I, tel. 3243-643 • DAH THEATRE, Humska 12, tel. 2441-680 • ISTER THEATRE, Koste Glavinica 7A, tel. 650-757 • JUGOSLAV DRAMA THEATRE, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 644-447 • KPGT, Radnicka 3, tel. 3055-082, 3055-070 • NATIONAL THEATRE (Opera, Ballet, Theatre Plays), Francuska 3, tel. 620-946 • MADLENIANUM OPERA & THEATRE, Zemun, Glavna 32, tel. 316-25-33 • THEATRE ON TERAZIJA, Trg Nikole Pasica 3, tel. 3245-677, 410-099 • SCENA RADOVIC, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-8817 • SLAVIJA THEATRE, Svetog Save 18, tel. 436-995 • THEATRE ‘T’, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 403-570 • THEATRE BOJAN STUPICA, Kralja Milana 50, tel. 644-447 • THEATRE KULT, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra, 77a, tel. 242-860 • ZVEZDARA THEATRE, Milana Rakica 38, tel. 2419-664 CHILDREN’S THEATRES • BOSKO BUHA, Trg Republike 3, tel. 632-855 • MALO POZORISTE DUSKO RADOVIC, Aberdareva 1, tel. 323-20-72 • POZORISTANCE PUZ, Bozidara Adzije 21, tel. 2449-464 • POZORISTE LUTAKA PINOKIO, Karadjordjeva 9, tel. 2691-715 • THEATRE RODA, Pozeska 83a, tel. 545-260 CINEMAS • AKADEMIJA 28, Nemanjina 28, tel. 3611-645 • BALKAN, Brace Jerkovica 16, tel. 3343-491 • DOM OMLADINE, Makedonska 22, tel. 324-8202 • DOM SINDIKATA, Trg Nikole Pasica 5, tel. 323-4849 • 20. OKTOBAR, Balkanska 2, tel. 687-182 • DVORANA KULTURNOG CENTRA, Kolarceva 6, tel. 2621-174 • FONTANA, Pariske komune 13, tel. 602-397 • JADRAN, Trg Nikole Pasica, tel. 624-057 • JUGOSLAVIJA, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina bb, tel. 2676-484 • KOZARA, Terazije 25, tel. 323-5648 • MALA MORAVA, Spasicev pasaz, tel. 623-198 • MALI ODEON, Kneza Milosa 14-16, tel. 643-280 • MILLENNIUM, Knez Mihailova 19, tel. 2623-365 • MUZEJ KINOTEKE, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250 • ODEON, Narodnog fronta 45, tel. 643-355 • PALAS SUMADIJA, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. 555-465 • RODA, Pozeska 83a, tel. 545-260 • SAVA CENTAR, Milentija Popovica 9, tel. 311-4851 • TUCKWOOD CINEPLEX, Knez Milosa 7, tel. 3229-912 • VUK, Bul. Kralja Aleksandra 77a, tel. 2424-860 • ZVEZDA, Terazije 40, tel. 687-320

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CorD | January 2006

CULTURAL CENTRES • BRITISH COUNCIL, Terazije 8, tel. 3023-800 • CENTRE FOR CULTURAL DECONTAMINATION, Bircaninova 21, tel. 681-422 • CERVANTES INSTITUTE, Cika Ljubina 19, tel. 3034 182 • STUDENTSKI GRAD CULTURAL CENTRE, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442 • DOM OMLADINA, Makedonska 22, tel. 3220-127 • DOM VOJSKE JUGOSLAVIJE, Brace Jugovica 19, tel. 323-99-71 • FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. 3023-600 • GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE, Knez Mihailova 50, tel. 2622-823 • ITALIAN CULTURAL CENTRE, Njegoseva 47/III, tel. 244-23-12, 444-72-17 • BELGRADE CULTURAL CENTRE, Knez Mihailova 6/1, tel. 621-469 • INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE - JUBIN, Terazije 26, tel. 687-836, fax. 687-760 • RUSSIAN CULTURAL CENTRE, Narodnog fronta 33, tel. 642-178, 688-300 • REX, Jevrejska 16, tel. 3284-534 • STUDENTS CULTURAL CENTRE, Kralja Milana 48, tel. 659-277 • FOUNDATION OF ILIJA M. KOLARAC, Studentski trg 5, tel. 630-550 • GUARNERIUS, Dzordza Vasingtona 12, tel. 33-46-807 EXHIBITION GALLERIES • GALLERY OF THE SERBIAN ACADEMY OF ARTS & SCIENCES, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. 334-2400 • BELGRADE GALLERY, Andricev Venac 12, tel. 323-8789 • BAZALT GALLERY, Lazarevacki drum 7, tel. 553-689 • PAVILJON CVIJETA ZUZORIC, Mali Kalemegdan, tel. 2621-585 • DOMA OMLADINE GALLERY, Makedonska 22, tel. 3248-202, ext. 25 • THE GREAT GALLERY OF STUDENTSKI GRAD, Bulevar AVNOJ-a 179, tel. 2691-442 • GALLERY OF THE FACULTY OF PORTRAIT ART, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 635-952 • FRESCO GALLERY, Cara Urosa 20, tel. 2621-491 • GALLERY OF THE GRAPHICAL COLLECTIVE, Obilicev venac 27, tel. 627-785 • GALLERY CHAOS, Cara Lazara 12, tel. 627-497 • GALLERY OF THE BELGRADE CULTURAL CENTRE, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. 2622-926 • JUGOSLOVENSKA GALERIJA UMETNICKIH DELA, Andricev venac 4, tel. 3238-789; Dositejeva 1, tel. 627-135 • GALERIJA-LEGAT MILICE ZORIC I RODOLJUBA COLAKOVICA, Rodoljuba Colakovica 13, tel. 663-173 • GALERIJA-LEGAT PAJE JOVANOVICA, Kralja Milana 21, tel. 3340-176 • GALERIJA-PETRA DOBROVICA, Kralja Petra 36, tel. 2622-163 • SANU GALLERY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY, Djure Jaksica 2, tel. 3283-490 • GALLERY PROGRESS, Knez Mihailova 22, tel. 182-626 • GALLERY OF THE NATURE MUSEUM, Mali Kalemegdan 5, tel. 328-4317 • MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Pariska 14, tel. 630-940 • GALLERY STARA KAPETANIJA, Zemun, Kej oslobodjenja 8, tel. 612-023 • GALLERY SULUJ, Terazije 26/II, tel. 685-780 • GALLERY 73, Pozeska 83a, tel. 557-142 • GALLERY ULUS, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. 2621-954 • GALLERY OF THE YUGOSLAV ARMY, Brace Jugovica 19, tel. 323-47-12 • GALLERY ZADUZBINE ILIJE M. KOLARCA, Studentski Trg 5, tel. 185-794 • ZEPTER GALLERY, Kralja Petra I no.32, tel. 328-1414

MUSEUMS CULTURAL&HISTORICAL MUSEUMS: • VUK AND DOSITEJ MUSEUM, Gospodar Jevremova 21, tel. 625-161 • ETNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM- Studentski trg 13, tel. 328-1888 • SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH, Kralja Petra 5, tel. 3282-595 • NATIONAL MUSEUM, Trg Republike 1a, tel. 624-322, 438-886 • MUSEUM OF PEDAGOGY, Uzun Mirkova 14, tel. 627-538 • THE MANSION OF DUCHESS LJUBICA, Kneza Sime Markovica 8, tel. 638-264 • THE MANSION OF DUKE MILOSH, Rakovicki put 2, tel. 660-422 • DJURA JAKSIC HOUSE, Skadarska 34, tel. 324-7334 • MANAK’S HOUSE, Gavrila Principa 5, tel. 633-335 HISTORICAL MUSEUMS: • MILITARY MUSEUM, Kalemegdan, tel. 3344-408 • BELGRADE FORTRESS MUSEUM, Kalemegdan bb, 631-766 • YUGOSLAV HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Trg Nikole Pasica 11, • MUSEUM OF BANJICA’S CAMP, Veljka Lukica-Kurjaka 33, tel. 669-690 • JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Kralja Petra 71, tel. 2622-634 • SERBIAN HISTORICAL MUSEUM, Nemanjina 24/VII, tel. 3674-057

AMSJ road assistance

987

Ambulance

94

Police

92

Fire Department

93

Belgrade Bus Station

636-299

Belgrade Airport

601-555

Wake-up calls

9811

Humanitarian phone

9862

JAT ticket reservations

311-2123

Long distance calls (international)

901

Phone line Malfunction

977

Information Exact time Information - phone numbers

9812 95 988

MEMORIAL MUSEUMS:

Telegrams by telephone

• MEMORIAL MUSEUM JOVAN CVIJIC, Jelene Cvetkovic 5, tel. 3223-126 • NIKOLA TESLA MUSEUM, Krunska 51, tel. 2433-886 • MEMORIAL MUSEUM TOMA ROSANDIC, Vasilija Gacese 3, tel. 651-434 • IVO ANDRIC MUSEUM, Andricev Venac 12, tel. 323-8397

Medical Center Emergency Room

CITY MUSEUMS:

Chemists, "Prima 1", "Sv. Sava"

• BELGRADE CITY MUSEUM, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. 630-825 • ZEMUN CITY MUSEUM, Glavna 9, tel. 617-752

Chemists, "Sv. Sava", Nemanjina 2

643-170

Chemists, "Zemun", Glavna 34

618-582

TECHNICAL MUSEUMS:

Alfa taxi

244-11-13

• YUGOSLAV AERONAUTICS MUSEUM, Belgrade Airport, tel. 670-992 • RAILWAY MUSEUM, Nemanjina 6, tel. 361-0334 • AUTOMOBILE MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel. 3241-566 • SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM, Djure Jaksica 9, tel. 187-360, 3281-479 • ELECTRICAL INDUSTRY MUSEUM, Skenderbegova 51, tel. 630-285 • POSTAL MUSEUM, Majke Jevrosime 13, tel. 3210-325 • ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM, Djure Jaksica 9, tel. 187-360, 3281-479

Alo taxi

3564-555, 063/252-002

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS:

Naxi taxi

215-76-68

• MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, Njegoseva 51, tel. 344-2149, 344-2568 • MUSEUM OF SERBIAN MEDICINE, Dzordza Vasingtona 19, tel. 3245-149

NBA taxi

318-57-77

Pink taxi

9803, 488-99-77

ART MUSEUMS

Taxi Bell

• AFRICAN ART MUSEUM, Andre Nikolica 14, tel. 651-654 • THEATRE MUSEUM, Gospdar Jevremova 19, tel. 626-630 • CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM, Usce, tel. 311-5713 • DESIGN MUSEUM, Vuka Karadzica 18, tel. 626-494 • CINEMA MUSEUM, Kosovska 11, tel. 324-8250

Zeleni taxi

Whether forecast Central Train Station Chemists,"1. maj", Kralja Milana 9

Beogradski taxi Beotaxi

96 3618-444 9823 629-400 324-05-33 361-10-88, 361-09-99

9801, 064-12-88-000 970

Ekonomik taxi

397-33-27

EURO TAXI (Lux taxi)

334-47-47

Gold taxi

329-18-18

Lux taxi

328-44-44

Maxiss taxi

Plavi taxi (Cukaricki)

Žuti taxi Inbaco taxi

581-111, 9804

3-555-999 9808 323-36-66, 324-25-55 9802 3077 000

CorD | January 2006

97

COLUMN Inbox To: cord@cma.co.yu From; Alex Papke Subject: My Life in Belgrade…

IN SEARCH OF ŽAMOR Making my way through the seriously disfigured Nemanjina-Slavija intersection this morning, manoeuvring dextrously through the rush-hour throng of pedestrians, beeping buses, sparking trams and frustratingly static cars, along dug-up, potholed streets strewn with bricks and blocks and piles of sand that busy workmen were using to carry out the task of rejuvenating the street in some obviously major, yet indistinguishable, phase, I suddenly found my progress halted by a veritable wall of fellow pedestrians. Peering ahead to see what was causing the hold-up, I spotted a pair of workmen lying prone across the path, obviously measuring up a new section for the pristine, visually-impaired-persons' pathing stones they were planning to lay. The morning crowd of impatient pedestrians would have found it easier to noisily demand right of passage or spill onto the street and further disrupt the ailing flow of traffic. But, instead, they formed an orderly queue and proceeded to step carefully over the builders' guide line. This may have slowed progress for the few, but it ultimately ensured safe passage for all and allowed both the workers, bus drivers and everybody else to go about their respective businesses.

I don't know if any single story could capture the spirit of Belgrade, but the workings of Slavija, seemingly always with a new "project" in its midst, yet surprisingly capable of moving people around a busy corner of the city, manages to make me smile in puzzled disbelief as I try to put together a picture of this city and country from my perspective as an outsider. Watching this intersection one afternoon, trying to figure out how it actually worked on the off chance that I may ever need to navigate it, I studied the traffic policeman's actions to see if I could shed light onto the situation. He worked his arms and his whistle, forcefully stopping a sometimes defiant flow, sending cars on their way. Then, all of a sudden, he gave an extra-loud blow of his whistle, causing a passing taxi to come to a halt. The taxi stopped and the traffic policeman climbed in: it was 6 o'clock. From that point on, I swear, traffic started to move much faster and easier through the 7-junction roundabout.

The sites of those who ride alongside loved-ones on their shifts driving buses and trams are always my favourite Belgrade moments. On a hot summer afternoon I've seen a sevenyear-old girl sitting on the fare-box facing her father as he drove the number 9 tram around the city, telling him stories that could only come between intersections. And on the 31 bus there's a young bride who even brings a plastic chair to sit alongside her husband as he drives the night route.

People like to know where a foreigner "goes out" for a good time, but if a box from friends' parents in the country has arrived by bus, we might not make it out of the kitchen. Inside there are eggs wrapped individually in newspaper, an assortment of dried meats, a bucket of kajmak, and always a bottle of domaća rakija. 'So, why go out my roommate' says, 'and anyway, Radio Politika is on-strike because they haven't been paid, so they're playing great music non-stop'.

If there's no box though, a walk through Kalenić market conjures up mental menus, with its brightly coloured seasonal vegetables, and equally colourful vendors, who are always happy to give you a smile or hand-held direction to the mushrooms if you ask. ‘Cabbage in fifty-kilo bags is just over there’.

Winter nights will bring about the search for žamor again, that echoing murmur of conversation drifting up from the beer-stacked tables at Kasina or Manjez, or one of the other great kafanas I am soon to find, in a sound that has been practiced for generations, preserved in time against pop influences, only changing in the detail of the tone.

And so my conversation with Belgrade continues.•

Alex Papke is a freelance writer and student living in Belgrade. While he appreciates the good music they're playing lately, he sincerely hopes that the situation at Radio Politika is resolved as soon as possible.

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CorD | January 2006