How to grow lily of the valley

Convallaria majalis are capricious plants which often have strange ideas about where to spring up

When planting, avoid beds where ground elder or other perennial weeds might infiltrate. It will be impossible to weed these out without disturbing your convallaria colony.

C. m. ‘Albostriata’ with its distinctive variegated leaves

Although lifting and replanting lily of the valley is recommended for autumn, I’ve often moved plants now just before they come into growth

If you need lush, spreading springtime groundcover, you can’t get much more fragrant or enchanting than the dreamy lily of the valley, as Anne Swithinbank explains…

CONVALLARIA majalis is a British native that was once widespread in the drier woodlands of eastern areas. Yet despite growing up in Kent, I have never seen it outside of parks and gardens. Left undisturbed, the plants make spreading colonies, dying back in autumn to overwinter as underground rhizomes. The ‘pips’ supplied by mail order are growth buds poised on these rhizomes, each ready to send up a pair of leaves enclosing a stem of flower buds. Rising to 8in (20cm), they hold pretty white bells on one side. The flowering period is all the more special for being so short, and we look forward eagerly every May to the chance of picking some fragrant bunches for the house. In France, posies of ‘Muguet des bois’ are traditional May Day gifts. For all its sweetness, convallaria is a poisonous plant in all parts and the berries can be tempting, so be wary where small children or young pets are using a garden. On the plus side, those of us with rural gardens visited by deer

and rabbits will find their lily of the valley left well alone. Colonies of plants suit woodland gardens and cottage style borders, and with a long history of cultivation they sit well in the plots of Medieval and Tudor buildings.

Here, there and everywhere A gardener can read up on the ideal spot for lily of the valley and find it likes a moist, humus-rich soil in sun or partial shade. Yet these capricious plants often have their own idea about where to settle. In my experience, they are not keen on what looks like a promising bed of good soil. Instead, they gravitate to path edges and sidle along the roots of established plants. In my grandparents’ garden, they grew in a narrow bed alongside tall bearded iris. Ours thrive in a slightly raised, east-facing border.

Choose a promising gap

in a lightly shaded bed and

weed thoroughly. Fork in

some soil conditioner.

In early spring or autumn, plant the ‘pips’ or crowns of growth 6in (15cm) apart, firm we

Plant in a lightly shaded bed

and water in using a rose (sprinkler) on the can. Should any ‘pips’ appear dry or straggly, soak the

rhizomes and pot them up for a while before planting.

Where soil is heavy and drains poorly in winter, plant

rhizomes into a slightly raised bed. Mulch annually in autumn with a thin layer of well-rotted compost or leafmould. Wikimedia / Epibase Alamy

Alchemilla mollis Lady’s mantle makes a ground-covering mass of soft, prettily lobed leaves, joined by a foam of small greenish yellow flowers from summer to autumn. On good soil, one plant will reach 24in (60cm) tall and 30in (75cm) wide.

Alamy

Phlox paniculata ‘Eva Cullum’ A profusion of pink summer blooms with dark pink eyes has graced many a cottage garden border. As long as the soil is moist, this herbaceous phlox is easy to grow, reaching 3ft (90cm) tall.

Alamy

Geranium x johnsonii ‘Johnson’s Blue’ This stalwart cranesbill forms healthy clumps of deeply lobed foliage joined during summer by a contrasting show of lavender blue flowers. Prompt deadheading will encourage more blooms. At 12-18in (30-45cm) high, it is a great front-of-border plant. Paeonia officinalis ‘Rubra Plena’ Known as common peony, the single form of this longlived European native has been in cultivation since medieval times, initially for medicinal properties. Even the doubles date back to the 1500s. Plant or move in early autumn. Grows to 28in (70cm).