Day Tripping: Windsor & Bertie County

Albemarle Magazine Summer 2020

A broadwalk offers small watercraft access to the Cashie River, which runs through Windsor.

Nicole BowmanLayton/Albemarle Magazine

By Miles Layton Albemarle Magazine

Sun is out and I've still got cabin fever. Maybe a lot of folks do to the point of rebellion because of the pandemic, but I needed to break away from the house by exploring eastern North Carolina so as to get to know the people and places better in our backyard. Windsor came to mind immediately because, while I've been through Bertie County on occasion to go fishing or kayaking, I've never toured the historic downtown or know much about the people, past or present.

For folks who don't know, locals pronounce the county's name as Ber-tee, with an emphasis on the “tee” and Windsor is more or less two syllables – “Winser” – where the “d” is silent and the “sor” sounds more like “ser” which is different than the way high-falutin people pronounce House of “Wind - sor” with its emphasis on “d” and the “sor.”

County was formed as Bertie Precinct in 1722 from the part of Chowan Precinct of Albemarle County lying west of the Chowan River. It was named for James Bertie, his brother Henry Bertie, or perhaps both, each having been one of the Lords Proprietors of Carolina.

Established by an act of the Colonial Assembly in 1768, on the site known as Gray’s Landing, Windsor has served as the county seat of Bertie County since 1774. Founded as a port on the Cashie River, which rises and falls in Bertie County, Windsor was the center of a thriving agricultural and timber industry.

Entered in the National Register of Historic Places in 1991, Windsor encompasses the same 100 acres of the original town. King Street is the heart of the Historic District, which includes many fine examples of 18thand 19th-century architecture. The churchyards of St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church, Cashie Baptist Church, Windsor United Methodist Church and St. Elmo Baptist Church contain the graves of many prominent former citizens of the town.

First, yes, there are nice large homes along King Street and around the downtown core centered a business district and county courthouse. Want to see some really old gravestones? Then check out the cemetery by St. Thomas' Episcopal Church. Parish was established in Merry Hill in 1722 before it moved to Windsor in 1839.

Windsor Mayor James Hoggard, who is very knowledgeable about all things Windsor and Bertie County, is distant kin to the family of early settlers from Hoggard's Mill, formerly the county seat between 1722 to 1769.

Filled with stories about local history, Hoggard told me about a battle between Union and Confederate forces that is part of Civil War Trails that crisscross the region. Fought Jan. 29-30, 1864, the skirmish was intended to disrupt Confederate recruiting efforts. When three federal transports with 1,000 men attacked a Confederate cavalry regiment with between 200-300 soldiers in Windsor, the rebels had no choice but to retreat. Soldiers and prominent Southern sympathizers were taken hostage.

Confederate accounts of the battle had a different point of view of the two-hour battle, with their version of the story reporting how the Yankees were driven from Windsor.

Another stop to add to anyone's bucket list traveling through eastern North Carolina is Hope Plantation – the restored home of former North Carolina Gov. David Stone (1770-1818). One of the finest examples of Palladian design built in timber, the manor house is slightly modified by neo-classical elements. The facade has five bays and a pedimented double portico with the original Chinese Chippendale balustrade. Crowning the house is a widow's walk, with matching railing. The interior of the house displays a height and grandeur rare in the region, and is furnished with a unique collection of period furniture, art and artifacts.

History aside, Hoggard said there is plenty to do in town or nearby. He touted the tree houses by the Cashie River – yep! Pre-coronavirus, these tree houses were booked solid most every night because, well, wow! The insides feature a queen-size sleeping platform and a sleeping loft. Outside of the treehouses is a gathering area in which

Albemarle Magazine Summer 2020

there are chairs and benches so guests can experience the outdoors together. River tours are common and kayak rentals a must because it's a neat trip paddling down the Cashie River, particularly after a good rain when the water gets to flowing pretty good.

Worth noting for kayak or beach enthusiasts, maybe check out Bertie Beach near the mouth of the Chowan River on the Albemarle Sound. This isolated sandy beach, part of the county’s Tall Glass of Water project, offers a commanding view of the Sound where folks can either swim or kayak up the “coast” of Bertie County, maybe even paddle across the Sound to Edenton if the water is flat and the wind is favorable.

While exploring different places and destinations forms a mission statement for travelers, the secret to a good trip is meeting new people, maybe hearing new stories. That's what keeps folks coming back.

Joseph Cherry, 90, grew up in Windsor and knows most everyone in town. His family's insurance agency, J.B. Cherry Insurance, was founded by his father, Joseph Sr., in 1912. When my young sons and I met Cherry as we were exploring town in search of everything from egg rolls (Windsor’s China King has great egg rolls) to a good hamburger, he welcomed us into his office and shared stories about the town. When Cherry was a boy, he sold the Bertie Ledger on a street corner – sometimes as many as 250 newspapers at a time – because downtown was so busy back in those days.

“Growing up, everyone came to town to go shopping on Saturdays. You

didn't have to lock your doors. Everybody knew everybody – that's still pretty much true today,” said Cherry who grew up on Granville Street but now lives on King Street, two doors up from the Cashie River. “I'm a longtime Windsor person. I love the town, yes I do.”

Cherry talked about local sports – he was sports editor of the Bertie Ledger once upon a time – and he talked about his family, how other notable folks in town or who he knows from my neck of the woods, Edenton – lot of crossover between communities. In essence, that conversation with Cherry showed my sons what the South used to be like when you visit folks and shared stories over a glass of tea. Oh my,

Joe Cherry, 90, of King Street, who has lived and worked in his hometown for decades, said Windsor is a good place to visit, maybe raise a family and get to know your neighbors.

Miles Layton/ Albemarle Magazine The Bertie County Courthouse is among some of the historic buildings in Windsor.

Nicole BowmanLayton/Albemarle Magazine

how times have changed, but still remain the same in some places, special places like Windsor.

Cherry talked about the flooding from when Hurricane Floyd invaded in 1999. My boys were amazed as Cherry pointed to the water marks when the floodwaters came into his insurance agency located on South King Street. Cherry joked that there was so much water in the streets, that he could drive a boat through much of downtown – joked that he gave his wife Della that cruise she always wanted; she didn't think his quip was funny.

An avid University of North CarolinaChapel Hill Tar Heels fan, Cherry showed my sons a special Carolina blue bag. When you opened it, a marching band performed the Tar Heels' fight song. Boys were impressed. Cherry talked about the Livemon Park & Mini Zoo, which has a zebra, a few impressive buffalo, among other animals. He talked about a vibrant arts community and the town's many museums, including one dedicated to farms, which has old farm equipment, and another dedicated to trains because Windsor was a transportation hub. Soon by the early 1900s the railroads became a connecting link between the steamship lines and points north. Products, including lumber from various mills, were brought by rail to Windsor, making it somewhat of a port of entry for the area. 'Windsor is a good place to raise a family, maybe stay awhile – people have deep roots in our community,” Cherry said.

Albemarle Magazine Summer 2020

The Tall Glass of Water Project in Bertie County includes a beach on the Albemarle Sound.

Nicole BowmanLayton/Albemarle Magazine

According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the county has a total area of 741 square miles, of which 699 square miles is land and 42 square miles (5.7%) is water.

Roanoke River National Wildlife Refuge: Refuge is made up of various tracts of land - some of which are accessible only by boat via the Roanoke River (Great & Goodman Islands, Broadneck Swamp, and Hampton Swamp). The Refuge has only one designated Hiking Trail, the Kuralt Trail which is a <1 mile total trail located off of Hwy 13/17N; however, there are two maintained roads along Hwy 13/17 that are available for walking. Info: https://www.fws.gov/ refuge/Roanoke_River/

Tall Glass of Water Project: Project celebrates the get there from Elizabeth City: Take US 17 South toward Williamston. Approximately 1 mile after Chowan River Bridge, turn right onto Bal Gra Road. Follow the signs for

rich natural and cultural landscape of Bertie County. To parking. Info: http://www.co.bertie.nc.us/projects/2019/ tgow/tgow.html

Livermon Park & Mini-Zoo: Located at 102 North York Street, Windsor. The park offers various animals for viewing, picnic pavilions and playground equipment. The Cashie Wetland Walk, a boardwalk trail, is nearby. For information or to reserve picnic pavilions, please contact Wayne Hill at 252-794-5553 or livermonpark@gmail.com.

Cashie River Tree Houses: Treehouses are a place to relax and enjoy the awesome view and the sounds of nature. You may also use them as a base to explore the river on a kayak/canoe, or to do some fishing or hunting. Nightly rates are $65 per treehouse (sales tax included). For all Treehouse Rental Information, contact Billy Smithwick 252-724-0994.

For more about Bertie County: http://www.co.bertie. nc.us/

Albemarle Magazine Summer 2020