Time Out Malta & Gozo

Your essential guide to the Maltese islands

2015/16

Malta & Gozo

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Contents Content House Ltd, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel QRM3000 Malta Tel: +356 2132 0713 Fax: +356 2132 0714 Email: info@contenthouse.com.mt www.contenthouse.com.mt Managing Directors Jesmond Bonello, Isabel Depasquale Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com Editorial Joint Editors Isabel Depasquale, Martina Said Contributors Jo Caruana, Isabel Depasquale, Iggy Fenech, Sarah Micallef, Martina Said Research and Proofreading Content House Ltd Advertising Advertising Sales Content House Ltd Publication Sales Manager Petra Urso Advertising Sales Executives Jessica Catania, Claire Said Advertising Coordinators Lindsey Ciantar, Marvic Cutajar

See p39.

Design Design Studio Content House Ltd Designer Nicholas Cutajar Photography Lawrence Bonnici, Alan Carville, Lionel Galea, Heritage Malta, Sean Mallia, Malta Event Design, Malta Tourism Authority, Richard Muscat Azzopardi, Martin Pettersson Cover Photography Tonio Lombardi Maps JS Graphics Ltd (john@jsgraphics.co.uk) Malta and Gozo maps are based on material supplied by ITMB Publishing and the Sliema map is based on material supplied by Netmaps Printed and bound by Progress Press Time Out Group Founder Tony Elliott Chief Executive Officer Tim Arthur Chief Financial Officer Matt White Chief Marketing Officer Sarah Bartlett Chief Technical Officer Dave Cook International Managing Director David Woodley Global Editor-in-Chief Marcus Webb Head of Global Content Chris Bourn Art Director, Brand Anthony Huggins International Account Manager Will Salmon Content House Ltd would like to thank the management of the Malta Tourism Authority, Dhalia Real Estate Services, C Camilleri & Sons Ltd, Quaint Boutique Hotels, Myoka Spas and King Shoe Shops. A special thanks is also extended to the management of Time Out Group and to all the advertisers, editorial team, advertising executives, contributors and designers. © Copyright Time Out Group Limited 2015

See p121.

Features

Out and about

8

39 Valletta

Malta in focus

What’s new in the Maltese islands

11 Dates for your diary

17 Don’t miss

69 St Julian’s

Our pick of the best events unfolding in 2015/16 The top 10 things to do and see in the Maltese islands

All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd.

20 A foodie tour of Malta & Gozo

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in the guide, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain.

28 Stylish slumber

Rough diamonds to visit for a taste of local cuisine Discover the islands’ booming boutique accommodation scene

33 Making Malta home

The cover was shot at Marsaxlokk Model Amy Zahra – Supernova Model Agency

Why expats are making the islands their home

40 Overview and sightseeing 48 Where to eat 56 Where to drink 59 Shopping 64 Arts and entertainment 64 Where to stay 70 Overview and sightseeing 70 Where to eat 82 Where to drink 82 Shopping 85 Nightlife 85 Arts and entertainment 86 Where to stay

95 The Three Cities

96 Overview and sightseeing 99 Where to eat 100 Where to drink 100 Arts and entertainment 100 Where to stay

104 Overview and sightseeing 105 Where to eat 110 Where to drink 117 Shopping 117 Where to stay

103 Sliema

See p133.

121 Mdina & Rabat

122 Overview and sightseeing 124 Where to eat 129 Where to drink 130 Nightlife 130 Where to stay

133 Bugibba & Mellieha

134 Overview and sightseeing 137 Where to eat 141 Where to drink 141 Arts and entertainment 142 Where to stay

147 Gozo & Comino

148 Overview and sightseeing 154 Where to eat 158 Where to drink 158 Shopping 160 Nightlife 160 Arts and entertainment 160 Where to stay

165 Resources

165 Resources 166 Getting around 169 Maps: Gozo 170 Maps: Malta

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Grand Harbour Regeneration Corporation

Malta in focus

Valletta: A fast-rising star

Malta’s capital city is being pruned, polished and reinvigorated in preparation for 2018.

S

ince being crowned European Capital of Culture 2018, Valletta has undergone a remarkable change.

Those already familiar with Malta’s capital city, however, needn’t worry about it losing its timeless charm.

On the contrary, what this award is certainly doing for Valletta is giving it the star treatment it deserves, with a unified move towards its regeneration, headed by the Valletta 2018 Foundation.

A lot of work has been carried out since Valletta was awarded the title in 2012. One of the city’s major forts, Fort St Elmo, was restored to its former glory and re-opened to the public in early 2015 after a €15.5 million conservation project headed by the Grand Harbour Regeneration Corporation and Heritage Malta.

Equally prestigious and utterly transformed is the entrance to the city and the iconic building which occupies it: Malta’s impressive new parliament, designed by

world-renowned architect Renzo Piano (pictured above). This project kicked off six years ago and comprises City Gate and the immediate area outside the city walls, the open-air theatre within the ruins of the former Royal Opera House, the new Parliament building and the landscaping of the ditch beneath. The new Parliament building, sited on the former Freedom Square, also incorporates space for cultural use on the ground floor.

This remarkable edifice is made up of two massive volumes of stone, supported by stilts that recede from the façade to create an impression of suspension in air.

Just as enthralling are the beautifully sculpted open staircases that lead from the Parliament building to the entrances of St James’ and St John’s Cavaliers.

Executive Director of the Valletta 2018 Foundation, Dr Karsten Xuereb, says the best way for Valletta to regenerate its

Malta’s new parliament building is designed by celebrated architect Renzo Piano

8 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

cultural, economic and social profile is through a dynamic engagement with its past and an innovative interpretation of its heritage. “Renzo Piano’s project implements this vision and helps put the city further in the limelight of the European and world stage.

Valletta 2018 is about developing the city into a lab for artistic exchange and creative debate.”

Among the many major projects underway in preparation for 2018 are the Valletta design cluster, which will be established in the lower part of Valletta, with the intention of developing a creative industry cluster; the Museum of Art (MUŻA), a communityoriented project aimed at promoting art and museums as a tool for social transformation; is-Suq tal-Belt (Valletta’s indoor market) in Merchants Street, which was built in the 1860s under British rule and which after years of neglect will be restored; and the regeneration of Strait Street, which is fast becoming a hub of social life and creative activity while restoration works are underway.

On his own personal recommendation, Karsten suggests strolling through Valletta and dedicating as much time as you’ve got to any of the numerous sites which appeal to you. “Valletta is an open-air cultural site in the way cities like Rome or Berlin are, with the added advantage that it can be easily travelled on foot. Apart from the Piano project, I would recommend visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral (see p43) which hosts Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ and the Maltese palazzo Casa Rocca Piccola on Republic Street (see p47), while keeping an eye open for upand-coming projects and spaces that are breathing new life into the city.”

Reminiscing 1565 A series of events mapped out for 2015 to remember the Great Siege of 1565.

T

his year marks 450 years since the infamous clash between the Ottomans and the Order of St John in 1565, when a colossal Ottoman fleet invaded the Maltese islands, igniting four months of fierce fighting and bloodshed. While centuries have passed since this momentous period, it still captivates the interest of locals and foreigners alike, and to commemorate this event, Heritage Malta (the national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage) is organising a series of events throughout the year.

Keep an eye out for 1565 – an International Exhibition, to be held at the Palace State Rooms of the Grand Master’s Palace in Valletta (see p47), from September to December 2015, and which will incorporate some of the most important objects to survive the Great Siege. From Sunday 6 to Tuesday 8 September 2015, members of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta will travel to the islands to participate in various cultural and liturgical activities along with other Maltese delegates.

Further ancillary activities are being planned, and you can get all the facts and regular updates from Heritage Malta’s dedicated blog: www.heritagemalta.org/1565

The vegetarian movement

Vegetarian, vegan and healthy food spots are mushrooming. Here’s a list of the ones that shine.

The Grassy Hopper This humble food outlet put vegetarian and vegan cuisine on the Maltese map and is one of the most popular eateries around that caters for this lifestyle. It began with a mobile food van and evolved into a take-away food outlet in Valletta and a hip café in Gzira. Using the freshest local and seasonal ingredients, the team behind The Grassy Hopper is on a mission to make vegetarian and vegan options tastier and more filling. Ask for the signature spicy chickpea burger or buckwheat salad.

St George Street, Gzira, 2131 1676/Old Theatre Street, Valletta, 9934 1473, www.thegrassyhopper.com Roots the Vegetarian Food Truck Dubbed the ‘eco kitchen on wheels’, this charming ‘food truck’ is green from beginning to end: the equipment is low impact and eco-friendly, packaging is compostable and cleaning products are chemical-free.

The team here produces vegetarian and vegan food using carefully sourced local and organically grown produce to concoct humble but flavourful vegetable-based dishes. Following the success of its launch at Earth Garden festival this year, this cute van is one to watch – just keep an eye on the Facebook page for updates on the truck’s location and daily food offerings.

9914 0837, Facebook.com/RootsTheVegetarianFoodTruck Jangal This vegetarian bistro, which forms part of the long-established reggae hangout Juuls Bar (see p82), is a relatively new addition to the scene but quickly gaining popularity.

For the most part, the menu at Jangal is vegan and offers a selection of delicious food options, including home-made sweet potato burgers, Portobello mushroom burgers and a range of vegan curries, and experiments with Indian, Pakistani and Thai flavours.

7 St Joseph Street, St Julian’s, 7904 1841, Facebook.com/JangalVeggyBistro Soul Food Located in the heart of the capital, Soul Food offers Italian regional cuisine with a generous range of vegetarian and vegan dishes, some prepared according to the Indian Ayurveda philosophy, using cereals, seeds, herbs and spices to create bold and unique flavours. The signature burgers – lentil, chickpea, soy and mushroom – are among the most popular dishes, which you can wash down with a glass of vegan prosecco. Soul Food also prepares a choice of pastas, salads, piadini, artisan cakes and fresh smoothies.

76 Merchants Street, Valletta, 2123 4311, Facebook.com/SoulFoodValletta J’Oli Sandwich Salad Bar This concept eatery raises the bar for salads and healthy eating on the island. It allows customers to design their own salad or choose from an extensive variety of prepared gourmet salads, such as the salmon and mango one or the Santorini Greek-style salad. Those after something healthy that isn’t a salad can take their pick from a choice of wraps, bagels, soups and daily specials.

J’Oli also caters for vegans and vegetarians.

Gaiety Lane, c/w High Street, Sliema, 2133 3007, www.jolisandwichsaladbar.com

Island apps Cruise through your holiday with ease.

VisitMalta Destination Guide This is a comprehensive mobile guide to the Maltese islands, including general information, activities, an interactive map and an updated calendar of events.

Malta Culture Guide Locate cultural highlights on a map with ease, complete with images and practical information.

Malta Dishes Get easy-to-follow recipes through this app dedicated to timeless and popular Maltese cuisine.

Malta Info This one is aimed at helping visitors make their way around the island by suggesting the best places to visit and the top sights to see.

Malta Weather Get up-to-date, accurate and easy-to-read seven-day forecasts of Malta’s weather so you can plan your days ahead.

Malta Wi-Fi Find free and public Wi-Fi spots in open spaces, cafés, bars and restaurants, pin-pointed on a map for easy viewing.

Malta on the Move Under the name ‘MALTA’, this app presents a list of things closest to your location, including restaurants, public restrooms and speed cameras.

Next Gozo Ferry This travel app informs commuters of the ferry schedule between Malta and Gozo.

My Maltese Guide Get your own tour guide complete with four different audio tours. You can also avail yourself of discounts and offers on presentation of the app.

Malta Mass Find your way to the next and nearest church, and get all the latest information on churches and mass times around Malta with the Curia’s official app.

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Dates for your diary

will culminate with a threemonth, international exhibition incorporating important objects that survived from the Great Siege, originating from Malta and abroad.

Palace State Rooms, Grand Master’s Palace, Valletta (www. heritagemalta.org/1565).

Date 4 Sept-6 Dec. Malta International Musical Bands Festival This annual, international festival sees bands, majorette groups, marching bands, folk groups, street bands and piper bands performing all over the island. Over the course of the six-day festival, three parades will also take place in a number of towns and villages.

Various towns and villages across Malta (www. euroartproduction.it/festivalmalta-music). Date 8-13 Sept.

Carnival. See p14.

Events to take note of

Here’s a hint of upcoming prominent events on the islands In Guardia Parade This historical re-enactment tells the story of an activity that took Alarme place regularly in the past, within Alarme portrays the historic and important military fortifications turbulent tenure of Malta by French in Malta and Gozo. Over 50 retroops following Napoleon’s landing enactors are kitted out in their finest and conquest of the islands in uniforms to perform this military 1798. This re-enactment, drill to demonstrate to the which lasts approximately Grand Bailiff their state of 45mins, also gives readiness in the event an account of the of a military threat. subsequent attempt Each show starts at We have done our utmost to administer the 11am and lasts 45 to ensure the details listed islands by the mins. Admission here are correct, but dates new Republican against payment; may change and events government, the for dates check can be cancelled. Check rebellion of the website. www.visitmalta.com Maltese that led to Fort St Elmo, Valletta for updates. the blockade of the (www.heritagemalta.

French troops inside org/in-guardia-parade). the harbour towns, and the Date all year round.

French troops’ surrender to the British in 1800. Admission against payment; for dates check website.

St John’s Cavalier, Vittoriosa (www. visitmalta.com). Date all year round. Live Jazz Wednesdays Palazzo de Piro plays host to several renowned jazz players every Changing of the Guards Wednesday between 8 and 11pm This ceremony is symbolic of the until the beginning of September. formal handing over of responsibility Entrance is free, but it’s best to call from one guard to another at the ahead to secure a spot.

Presidential Palace in Valletta. The Palazzo de Piro, Mdina (2010 0560, Guard, led by the Armed Forces of Malta’s band, initiates the ceremony www.palazzodepiro.com). Every Wed until early Sept. from Republic Street (near Palazzo Ferreria) and proceeds towards St Joseph Calleja in Concert George’s Square. Admission is free; Starring Malta’s biggest musical for dates check website. export, the world-renowned tenor St George’s Square, Valletta (www. visitmalta.com). Date all year round. Joseph Calleja, this concert

All year round

ONLINE

AUGUST 2015

has become an annual mustattend. This year Calleja will be accompanied by American superstar Anastacia, as well as the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra.

Luxol Grounds, Pembroke (www. nngpromotions.com). Date 3 Aug. The Delicata Classic Wine Festival Entrance to this annual wine festival, organised by a Maltese winery, is free but you will need to purchase a wristband and glass if you want to savour any of the wines on offer.

Upper Barrakka Gardens, Valletta (2182 5199, www. delicata.com). Date 6-9 Aug. Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady The feast of the Assumption, better known among locals as the feast of Santa Marija, is both a religious and a public holiday on the islands.

It is celebrated in various villages, namely Attard, Mqabba, Qrendi, Gudja, Ghaxaq, Mgarr and Mosta in Malta, and Rabat in Gozo.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo. Date 15 Aug.

SEPTEMBER 1565 – An International Exhibition A series of activities organised to mark the 450th anniversary of the Great Siege of Malta

Victory Day Observed annually on 8 September, this day marks four important events in Malta’s history. These are the birth of the Blessed Virgin, Malta’s victory of the Great Siege of 1565 over the Ottoman Empire, the end of French occupation in Malta in 1800, and the end of the siege on Malta by the Axis powers in 1943. Every year, a regatta is organised in Grand Harbour in the afternoon, while evening festivities celebrating the feast of Our Lady are held in Senglea, Naxxar and Mellieha in Malta, and Xaghra in Gozo.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo. Date 8 Sept.

Independence Day Marking 51 years of Maltese independence from the British this year, this public holiday is celebrated with a variety of activities that take place all over the island, particularly Valletta.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo (info@ maltaculture.com). Date 21 Sept.

The Malta International Airshow Military and civilian airplanes come together for two days of fascinating displays that attract aviation enthusiasts and the general public. The airshow climaxes with a spectacular air display by international pilots of worldwide reputation.

Malta International Airport, Luqa (2124 9600, www.maltairshow. com). Date 26-27 Sept.

Zejt iz-Zejtun This annual event, set in one of the oldest villages in the south of Malta, welcomes the olive-picking and olive-pressing season. It features olive-pressing demonstrations, pageantry, exhibitions, the traditional blessing of horses, cattle and pets, and the selling of olives and their various

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first and only gospel choir of its kind. This year it returns for the highly-anticipated sequel to its 2009 and 2012 Animae Gospel Choirs in Concert, which promises another unmissable spectacle for all those who love live music.

Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta (www.animaegospelchoir. com). Date 31 Oct-1 Nov.

NOVEMBER

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Malta International Challenge Marathon This marathon is unique to the Maltese islands as it is spread over three consecutive days and measures a distance of 42km.

Day One starts from the medieval city of Mdina and runs through the western part of Malta, with participants enjoying panoramic views of Dingli Cliffs. On day two the challenge is held down south; while day three starts off in the northern area of Malta, continues towards Sliema and finishes in Valletta.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo (www. marathonchallengemalta. com). Date 21-22 Nov.

by-products. The beautiful crypt of the Parish Church of St Catherine will also be open for public viewing.

Zejtun (zejtun.lc@gov.mt).

Date 26-27 Sept.

OCTOBER Notte Bianca Theatrical performances, live music and dancing troupes liven up the streets and cultural venues in Valletta for one night, while state buildings and museums open their doors until late to delight the public with visual art exhibitions and theatre performances. Most cafés and restaurants welcome guests well into the night, and the city’s squares and streets play host to some of the finest local and international musicians and dancers.

Valletta (2123 2515, www. nottebiancamalta.com). Date 3 Oct. Mdina Grand Prix This year, the Mdina Grand Prix will once again take place at the Mdina street track, situated just beneath the imposing city bastions, with various cultural activities organised for participants and the public.

Mdina (9947 7735, www. mdinagp.com). Date 8-11 Oct. Birgufest Set in the beautiful maritime city of Vittoriosa, this three-day event

Birgufest

promotes the city’s historical heritage, while the streets and alleys are lit with soft candlelight to further emphasise its architectural wonders.

Every year, a variety of historical re-enactments are organised, stalls selling traditional Maltese food are set up, and entrance fees to museums are discounted.

Vittoriosa (2166 2166, www. birgu.gov.mt). Date 9-11 Oct. Malta Military Tattoo The Malta Military Tattoo provides a highly entertaining atmosphere with precision marching, formation displays and good music. The 2015 Tattoo will include foreign military bands, the local massed pipes and drums band, the Malta Police Precision Drill team, the Malta Police Band and the Armed Forces of Malta Band.

Malta Fairs and Conventions Centre (MFCC), Ta’ Qali (www.maltamilitarytattoo. org). Date 9-11 Oct. The Rolex Middle Sea Race This magnificent race journeys through one of the most beautiful courses in the world. It kicks off and ends in the majestic Grand Harbour in Valletta, with the fleet covering a 606-mile route that is a true challenge for skippers and crews.

(2133 3109, www rolexmiddlesearace. com). Date 12-24 Oct.

12 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

La Traviata Teatru Aurora, in Gozo, will be staging Giuseppe Verdi’s classic, ‘La Traviata’ with the participation of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra.

Teatru Aurora, Rabat, Gozo (www. teatruaurora.com). Date 17 Oct. La Bohème Teatru Astra, in Gozo, will be presenting a vintage production of Puccini’s ‘La Bohème’ – an all-time favourite among opera lovers.

Teatru Astra, Rabat, Gozo (www. teatruastra.com). Date 29-31 Oct. Malta International Choir Festival This festival takes place in various locations, ranging from theatres to churches and public spots in Malta and Gozo, and features participants from all over the world.

The events, spread over four days, include a sacred music competition and a choristers’ street parade.

Various towns and villages across Malta and Gozo (www.maltachoirfest.com).

Date 29 Oct-1 Nov. Animae Gospel Choir in Concert Made up of some of Malta’s finest musical talent, including three singers who represented the country at the Eurovision Song Contest, Animae is Malta’s

Patches Market This artisanal market is held three times a year and is perfect for anyone looking to buy a unique local gift. The products on offer, most of which are sold by the artisans themselves, range from jewellery and ceramics to food items and more, so you’re sure to find something you like.

The Christmas edition takes place at the end of November or beginning of December.

Venue to be confirmed (www.patchesmalta.com).

Date to be confirmed.

DECEMBER Republic Day This day marks the 41st anniversary since Malta ceased to be a monarchical constitution and became a Republic. Activities marking this historic date are held every year, mainly in Valletta. (info@maltaculture. com). Date 13 Dec. Christmas Eve Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve is still held in most churches across the islands, with the best ceremonies organised at St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina (see p123) and at Mosta Church (see p123). This is usually followed

by Christmas breakfast at one of the many restaurants and cafés across Malta and Gozo.

Alternatively, clubs and bars in Paceville and the surrounding area are open for business till the early hours of the morning.

Date 24 Dec.

New Year’s Eve There are many ways you could spend New Year’s Eve in Malta, with the islands catering for anything from a large public party or small private gathering to a quiet meal with your significant other or friends. The options are endless and include pub crawls and parties held at clubs and other venues.

Ultimately, you’ve just got to choose the one that works best for you.

Date 31 Dec.

JANUARY 2016 Valletta International Baroque Festival For two weeks in January, the city of Valletta resounds with music composed at the time it was built – in the late 16th century and at the height of the baroque period, both of which gave it its architectural identity.

Valletta (www. vallettabaroquefestival.com. mt). Date 16-30 Jan.

FEBRUARY Carnival Dating back to the time of the Knights, the celebration of Carnival is still a big affair in both Malta and Gozo. Kids and adults flock to Valletta and Floriana, where large floats parade through the streets accompanied by loud music and cheering enthusiasts.

Others head to Nadur in Gozo, where young people dressed in strange and satirical costumes take over the village square for a weekend of merrymaking.

Valletta, Floriana, Gozo, other villages (www.visitmalta. com). Date 5-9 Feb.

MARCH Good Friday As one of the Roman Catholic Church’s most solemn feasts, Good Friday is commemorated in many towns and villages across

the islands, with processions depicting the last hours of Christ’s life. Those in Valletta, Zejtun and Mosta in Malta and Xaghra in Gozo are some of the most popular among devotees.

Date 25 Mar.

APRIL Malta International Fireworks Festival A number of Maltese and foreign fireworks factories will be participating in this competitive event, presenting spectacular pyrotechnic displays synchronised to music to commemorate Malta’s accession to the European Union. The spectacle is free.

Various towns and villages across Malta (www.maltafireworksfestival. com). Date to be confirmed.

MAY Malta Fashion Week & Awards Showcasing Malta’s best talent in the fashion industry – from designers to catwalk models, stylists and photographers – alongside foreign names and brands, Malta Fashion Week has established itself as the biggest fashion event on the island. The week-long fashion bonanza culminates with the Malta Fashion Awards on the Saturday.

Venues to be confirmed (www.fashionweek.com. mt). Date to be confirmed.

L-lmnarja Commemorating Malta’s patron saint, St Paul, and the apostle St Peter, L-Imnarja is one of the country’s oldest traditional festivities. During the day, many people flock to Buskett Gardens to make the most of the openair dancing and singing, the agrarian fair and the displays of produce by local farmers. Horse and donkey races are held just below neighbouring Mdina.

Buskett Gardens. Date 29 June.

JULY The Marsovin Wine Festival The real stars of the night at this festival are the wines, and with over 30 different D.O.K and I.G.T. wines on offer, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Entrance costs €15, and will get you the same amount worth in wine tokens and a free wine glass.

Hastings Gardens, Valletta (www.marsovinwinefestival. com). Date to be confirmed.

Public holidays The Assumption of Our Lady (Santa Marija) 15 Aug 2015

Republic Day 13 Dec 2015

Good Friday 25 March 2016

Christmas Day 25 Dec 2015

Freedom Day 31 Mar 2016

New Year’s Day 1 Jan 2016

Labour Day 1 May 2016

Independence Day 21 Sept 2015

St Paul’s Shipwreck 10 Feb 2016

Sette Giugno 7 June 2016

Immaculate Conception 8 Dec 2015

The Feast of St Joseph 19 Mar 2016

St Peter and St Paul (L-Imnarja) 29 June 2016

Our Lady of Victories 8 Sept 2015

JUNE Isle of MTV Over the past 10 years, this music event has attracted some of the biggest names in music, with Lady Gaga, Snoop Dogg, Enrique Iglesias, the Black Eyed Peas, Maroon 5, Jess Glynne and Jason Derulo all having performed to an audience of over 30,000 locals and foreigners. Entrance is free and on a first-come-first-served basis.

The Granaries, Floriana (www. isleofmtv.com). Date 28 June.

When to go

Oct-Dec. Swimming is possible in October though temperatures begin to dip, with an average day-time temperature of 17.5°C in December. The highest levels of rainfall are recorded in November and December.

Jan-Mar. Although these are the coldest months, with average daytime temperatures of 16°C-18°C, they become progressively drier, with just 37mm of average rainfall in March.

Apr-May. The countryside is at its greenest during these months, with a relatively low possibility of rain and between 10 to 11 hours of sunshine. Average temperatures hover between 20°C and 24°C.

14 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

viewingmalta.com/Stefan Stafrace

June-Sept. This is the time to visit if you’re after a beach holiday.

Be aware though that the temperature in July and August sometimes rises to above 35°C, with around 12 hours of sunshine.

Mdina Grand Prix. See p12.

Don’t miss

The best OF Malta & GOZO

Best sights Malta’s history reads like a rich

Valletta No visit to Malta is complete without a tour of the capital city – a UNESCO World Heritage site built by the Knights of St John following their victory over the Turks in the Great Siege of 1565. Along every turn, Valletta is rife with architectural gems dating back to various eras throughout its history, with the newest addition being the recently completed City Gate and Parliament building designed by internationally renowned architect Renzo Piano. Set to be European Capital of Culture in 2018, the city that was once bustling by day and quiet at night has also begun to experience a new lease of life – with many boutique hotels, bars and restaurants opening anew, and drawing crowds by day and by night.

Mdina The old capital of Malta was once home to the island’s aristocracy, and today, a walk along the medieval silent city’s narrow cobbled streets is like stepping right into its past. Discover exquisite baroque architecture around every corner of the pedestrianised streets, take in the picturesque view of the surrounding countryside from its imposing ramparts, stop for a coffee at one of the many cafés and end your day with a romantic meal.

Neolithic remains Malta is truly a haven for history buffs, and some of the islands’ Neolithic temples are the oldest standing structures in the world – even pre-dating Stonehenge by circa 1,000 years. The oldest parts of these ancient places of worship date back some 6,000 years, and each has its own unique characteristics. Among the most impressive are the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Hagar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien and Ggantija (in Gozo), as well as the underground prehistoric burial site of Hal Saflieni Hypogeum.

Gozo and Comino The smaller sister isle of Gozo is distinct in its character, and life here moves at a different pace to that on the main island.

Still boasting vast green areas and unspoilt land, Gozo has the air of a place where time stood still, yet is still replete with excellent restaurants, bars and scenic beaches.

Meanwhile, the smaller island of Comino is surrounded by the clearest turquoise waters – perfect for swimming and diving.

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cultural tapestry, and many sights are testament to the island’s incredible past. Here’s our pick of the best.

Fomm Ir-rih

Best beaches Whether it’s golden sand, crystal waters or rocky crags you’re after, Malta’s beaches have it all. These are certainly worth a visit.

Mellieha Bay Malta’s longest stretch of sand is found in Mellieha, making up three beaches along the coast. It’s accessible, boasts shallow waters with no undercurrents and offers a variety of water sports, making it very family friendly. If you’re feeling peckish, a number of kiosks and cafés dotted along the beach serve everything from ice-cream and light snacks to grilled fish.

Fomm ir-rih Head to this isolated bay (pictured above) near the village of Bahrija if you’re looking for a quiet day at the beach. Accessible through a footpath, it’s not for those who are shy of a bit of a trek, but is definitely worth it for the crystalclear waters you’ll find when you get there.

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay Easily one of the island’s most picturesque bays, watching the sunset from Ghajn Tuffieha, with its dramatic clay slops in the background, is breath-taking. Its neighbouring beach, Golden Bay, also makes for a good swimming spot, but can get overcrowded in the height of summer.

Ramla l-hamra Known for its red sand, this is Gozo’s largest beach, and boasts beautiful turquoise waters and rolling sand dunes.

Paradise Bay A smaller beach located just before the area in which you catch the ferry to Gozo, you’ll find golden sand and clear waters here.

Paradise Bay is also serviced by a very wellequipped lido, which offers great food and colourful cocktails if you’re feeling festive.

Peter’s Pool A rocky spot that takes a little walk to get to, this beautiful beach near Marsaxlokk has a lot going for it – crystal-clear water and never crowded.

Best markets Going to the market is at the heart of

Maltese village life, with almost every town and village having its version. Here are the top markets to look out for.

Valletta An open-air market is held daily along Merchants Street in Valletta. Considered to be one of the biggest in Malta, merchandise on sale here ranges from clothing, CDs and DVDs to books, accessories and antiques. The market is set to relocate to Ordnance Street (close to City Gate) by December 2015.

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Marsaxlokk The fishing village of Marsaxlokk is home to the biggest fishing market on the island. A few stalls selling everything from clothes and shoes to food can be found on weekdays, but a bustling, full-scale market is held on Sundays.

Vittoriosa A cross between a flea market and car boot sale takes place every Sunday in the football pitch upwards from Couvre Porte and the entrance to Vittoriosa. This is a different kind of experience that will take you a little off the beaten track.

The Blue Hole (pictured left) Overlooking the beautiful Azure Window, the Blue Hole dive site in Dwejra, Gozo, features a 10m wide inland sea pool leading into a large crevice and through to the open sea.

It is popular for its rock formations and fantastic marine life such as parrot fish, bream, moray eel, lobster and octopus, as well as a reef and coral garden.

HMS Maori If a wreck is what you’re after, the HMS Maori, located at Marsamxett Harbour in Valletta, is ideal for beginners. The waters are shallow, and you can marvel over the wrecked ship that was bombed on 14 February 1942.

Interesting marine life spotted here includes fire worms, eels, seahorses and even octopus.

Rabat, Gozo A small market is held every morning in Independence Square in Rabat, Gozo, with stalls selling mainly clothing, accessories and straw hats.

Ghar Lapsi This is a great cave dive which is perfect for beginners, offering the chance to descend on the reef to about 15m. If you’re a little more experienced, you can discover the natural beauty of the azure waters in the Ghar Lapsi Cave, where you’ll have a good chance of spotting nudibranchs and sea hares. This dive can also be combined with diving at Um El Faroud in Zurrieq – a 10,000 ton, 115m container ship which sank following a gas explosion in 1998, killing nine men on board.

Best diving Malta’s clear waters, wealth of

wrecks and marine life make it ideal for divers. Here are some top diving spots around the islands.

Santa Maria Caves Located in the North of Comino, these fascinating caves offer excellent swim troughs and being quite shallow, are also ideal for snorkelers. Marine life here includes octopus, crabs, spiny lobsters, eels, mullets, shrimp, damselfish and morays, as well as banded sea bream.

Best country walks Away from the hustle and bustle of

Reqqa Point A popular reef diving site in Ghasri, Gozo, Reqqa Point offers a diversity of marine life including groupers, dentex and rays as well as barracudas, lobsters and morays. Diving alongside someone who has been before is recommended here, as it is not an easy one to find.

viewingmalta.com/Ted Attard

its busy towns, Malta boasts some of the most beautiful walking routes and views in the Mediterranean.

These are a few favourites Siggiewi The old, rural village of Siggiewi features some spectacular scenery for the nature lover, comprising the valley of Ghajn il-Kbira and the 18th-century Inquisitor’s Palace of Girgenti.

Dingli The imposing cliffs of this northern village make for a number of stunning walking routes, and are also home to the site of Is-Simblija – a medieval hamlet of rural dwellings located on the ledge of a cliff, with structures dating back to the early 1700s.

Qrendi Towards the south of Malta, Qrendi is a quaint village that offers a look into the past, and once there, you can factor in a visit to the prehistoric temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, located on the outskirts.

The Blue Hole

18 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Tas-Silg A truly picturesque walking route starts from Marsascala and ends in Marsaxlokk, meandering through the Marsascala salt pans, Fort Delimara, St Paul’s Battery, Xrobb l-Ghagin and St Thomas Bay. Once in Marsascala, a visit to St Thomas Tower, which was built by the Knights of Malta in 1614, would certainly not go amiss.

Buskett Malta’s only woodland area of Buskett makes for a great starting point for a country walk, moving on to the prehistoric cart ruts, Ghar il-Kbir, the palace of Girgenti and Providenza Chapel, and ending in the village of Siggiewi.

Best local products Malta and Gozo offer a great selection of local products that make the perfect souvenirs. Here are some of the best examples to choose from.

Crafts The craft scene within Malta and Gozo is thriving. Take your pick from traditional Maltese clocks, mouth-blown glass, stonework, ceramics, filigree and traditional lace items – locally crafted works of art abound. The best places to get these are Ta’ Qali Crafts Village in Malta and Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village in San Lawrenz, Gozo, though you’ll also often find crafters selling their wares at local markets. If you’re in the Sliema area, a visit to artisan soap maker Charly at Soap Café in St Mary Street is a must, where you can browse over 50 types of hand-made soap for all skin types, as well as various lotions, balms and scrubs made with local ingredients such as olive oil, goats’ milk and purées of seasonal local fruit such as prickly pear and pumpkin.

Food The Maltese love their food, and judging by the wealth of locally produced food on the islands, it shows. From much-loved snack Twistees to sun-dried tomatoes, jams and local cheese, there’s something for everyone’s palate. If you’re on the sister isle, look out for Gozitan-produced range Ogygia, available at gourmet concept store Vini e Capricci, within the Gozitano Agricultural Village in Xewkija. Here you’ll find pâtés, cheeselets and traditional crunchy galletti (water biscuits), capers, Gozo salt, olive oil and kunserva (tomato paste), all produced in the beautiful and sunny island of Gozo.

Drinks There’s nothing quite like a cold beer on a summer’s day, and local brands like the popular and well-loved Cisk and the artisanal Gozo-produced Lord Chambray are firm favourites. Over the years, the standard of Maltese wine has also improved significantly, which means you’ll find several varieties that have been awarded the coveted DOK certification. Meanwhile, if you’re after something a little stronger, Maltese liqueurs made from local lemons, figs and prickly pears are also hugely popular. As for nonalcoholic offerings, local soft drink Kinnie, made from bitter oranges and aromatic herbs, has remained much loved since its launch in 1952, and is certainly worth a try.

A foodie tour of Malta & Gozo Photos: Richard Muscat Azzopardi

Local food appreciator Sarah Micallef acts as tour guide on a culinary journey across the Maltese islands, bringing you her favourite rough diamonds, hidden gems and holes-in-the-wall, which offer quintessential dining experiences like no other.

Timpana & qarabali mimli Farmer’s Bar Co-Op The northern village of Mgarr is predominantly agricultural, so it’s no surprise that many of the villagers here are farmers. This bar is run by the Mgarr Farmers Cooperative, and serves hearty home-cooked fare that will satisfy the hardest working farmer. Over the years, the clientele has become more varied, though true to its roots, every time I’ve visited there’s always been a local farmer or two tucking into whatever’s on offer that day.

While there’s no set menu, the genuine food that comes out of the kitchen is hearty and satisfying, and is bound to include a few local favourites.

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My personal choices are ravioli, baked macaroni or timpana, and stuffed marrows with baked potatoes (qarabali mimli bil-patata l-forn). Accompanied by a steaming hot tea (as always, served the old way, in a glass), and a peek at the day’s paper, this is old school relaxation at its best.

Mgarr Farmers Cooperative Society, Sir Temi Zammit Street, Mgarr (2157 1328, www.mgarrfarmers.com).

Pastizzi Crystal Palace Pastizzi are one of the most well-known local savoury snacks, and can be found across the islands – usually at small, hole-in-the-wall outlets known as pastizzeriji. One of the most celebrated is Crystal Palace in Rabat, or as locals refer to it, Is-Serkin. While the place itself may appear a little dingy, it’s bursting with local flavour, in many senses. You’re always bound to see a congregation of local old men, with or without their pet birds or Chihuahua dogs sitting inside, happily munching on their pastizzi while reading the day’s paper. That’s not to mention the pastizzi themselves, lined up neatly on the traditional turtieri – large, shallow, steel trays which have been charred black with heat and with remnants of pastizzi past.

While you can tuck into the delicious diamond-shaped filo pastries with a ricotta or pea filling at any time of the day, they make for an amazing breakfast – coupled with a steaming hot te fit-tazza (tea in a glass). Still, what could be an even more popular time to head to is-Serkin for a couple of pastizzi is the wee hours of the morning. Dishing out the tasty morsels well into the night, it is a favourite spot for party-goers, who come here for a hearty snack before heading home for the night.

Crystal Palace, St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 3323).

Milkshake & date cakes City Gate Kiosks When I was little, every trip to Valletta, for whatever reason, would start with a stop at the milk kiosk for a glass of chocolate milk. Later, in my early teens, the kiosk became a meeting spot, before the days of mobile phones, when the area was used as a bus terminus, and today, I still enjoy the occasional visit for ‘my usual’.

Nothing about the kiosk has changed since my childhood, and my father’s before me. As I look into the same, time-wizened face and ask for my milkshake, the old man behind the counter silently performs his much-practiced motion, producing the familiar glass in exchange for a few cents.

A few kiosks down, on the other side of the entrance to Valletta, is the imqaret kiosk. These traditional Maltese sweets are essentially deepfried pastries with a date filling, and while they can often be found at village feasts, the City Gate kiosk provides what many consider to be some of the best specimens. While the area has changed a lot in the past 20 years, the kiosks leading up to the capital’s entrance remain as a sort of time capsule – serving up an experience I would definitely recommend, for as long as they’re still around.

City Gate Kiosks, Valletta.

Ftira biz-zejt Olympic Bar & Restaurant The name on the outside says Olympic Bar, but to the locals that have been frequenting this place for years, it’s known by the family’s nickname – Ix-Xufi. You’ll have heard of local favourite summer snack, ftira or hobza biz-zejt – traditional Maltese bread topped with tomato paste and an assortment of ingredients, including capers, olives, garlic, olive oil and tuna – but while you can get it from many places, no one does it better than here.

If you’re lucky enough to watch the assembly of your hobza behind the counter, it is a sight to behold. Starting from the moment the bread hits the counter (literally, shedding a beautiful sprinkling of flour off the sides), to the efficient application of tomato paste using a paint brush, I love watching the growing tower of ingredients haphazardly arranged, all leading up to the moment the bread knife slices through the middle, producing a pleasing, audible crunch. Devour on site or, if you can wait, do as the locals do and take it to the beach with you (Mosta is conveniently on the way along the bus route to the sandy beaches in the north).

Olympic Bar & Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 2067).

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Octopus stew Rising Sun Bar Being an islander, I love fish and seafood, and one of the best places to eat fish locally is, somewhat unsurprisingly, the quaint fishing village of Marsaxlokk, in the south-eastern part of Malta.

While there are many eateries along the seafront in which you can feast on the catch of the day, there is one place that serves straight-up, home-style cooking. A former grocery store, the Rising Sun Bar houses four tables, a dated bar and a small kitchen. The family that runs the place and the food they serve are as genuine as they come.

There is little I’d rather be doing on a warm summer day than sitting at one of the tables outside with an ice cold shandy in hand, watching the traditional colourful fishing boats bobbing up and down as I wait for the best octopus stew you’ll find anywhere.

Every now and then, a fisherman’s dog who is also a regular here, will come for a cuddle, and I happily oblige. The menu changes depending on what is available, with owner and cook Michael insisting on serving only the freshest fare. Still, whenever octopus is an option, I need not bother with the rest. Sadly, word on the street is that Michael will be hanging up his apron at the end of the year and passing the shop over to his daughter, and while I’m sure she’ll carry his legacy well, my heart (and stomach) weeps a little at the impending loss.

Rising Sun Bar, Triq is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 9072).

Elevated antipasti Tal-Petut Probably the most refined place on this list, TalPetut offers a genuine local dining experience that’s been elevated to something special. Situated along a quaint, narrow street in the beautiful old city of Vittoriosa, the characterful building in which the restaurant is housed used to be a grocery store, known simply as Tal-Petut – the family’s nickname.

The concept here is unique, and one which cook patron Donald is only too happy to explain if you’re a newbie. Every meal starts with an excellent selection of antipasti in the Italian tradition, comprising local favourites, using seasonal produce, that have been raised to the highest level, and it is here that the place truly shines. Among these you’ll find traditional arjoli, made with garlic and parsley which are blended with local dried bread, sea salt and olive oil, home-grown cured olives, fava beans flavoured with lemon and fennel, a spin on traditional bean paste bigilla, flavourful local sausage (zalzett), traditional cheeselets (gbejniet), as well as the place’s own take on another local favourite – ravioli. If you love food as much as I do, you’ll be delighted to watch your table fill up with many small bowls of delicious bites, placed neatly alongside each other like some sort of foodie tapestry, and you’ll be hard-pressed to figure out where to start (and when to stop!)

Tal-Petut, Triq Pacifiku Scicluna, Vittoriosa (2189 1169, www.talpetut.com).

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Bebbux & bragjoli Tal-Majjistra Eat House This place hasn’t been around for very long, and is far more of a hidden gem than a rough diamond. Located a couple of metres away from the main church and imposing square in the rural village of Mgarr, Tal-Majjistra is set within a charmingly converted traditional house. The cosy open-air courtyard provides a great atmosphere for some tasty local cuisine, and among some more mainstream options, that’s exactly what’s on the menu.

If you’re feeling brave, I recommend the snails (bebbux) to start. Much like in France, snails form part of traditional local cuisine and always remind me of happy childhood days when my grandparents would take us snail collecting. Just as the last drops of rain hit the ground on the first rainy day after the hot summer, they’d bundle us into the car and off we went into the countryside, where we’d compete on who’d collect the most snails for our yearly family feast.

Spaghetti bolognese Tony’s Bar

Another great local option is the beef olives (bragjoli). I remember eating these often at home when I was growing up, with varying fillings. Here, they consist of minced meat, boiled eggs, carrots and bacon, wrapped in thinly sliced beef and cooked in a simple tomato sauce.

Tal-Majjistra Eat House, Triq il-Kbira, Mgarr (2703 5098, www.tal-majjistra.com).

Many a World War II serviceman has fond memories of blowing off steam at Tony’s Bar along the busy Sliema promenade – a place with a rich history dating back to the 1920s. Today, it remains the perfect place for a drink or bite and a spot of people-watching, and I like to head here when hunger strikes on a Sliema shopping outing.

Inside, framed photos, event tickets and other memorabilia from the bar’s past are proudly displayed on the walls, and the antique bar, with a dizzying selection of drinks behind it, gleams just as it did in the old photographs. My favourite dish is a hearty spaghetti Bolognese (you’ve got to get some sustenance in you after all the retail therapy), but on a recent visit, I was disappointed to find that it had been taken off the new menu. Enter my second favourite aspect about Tony’s Bar: the incredibly friendly (and often singing!) waiters.

On the menu or not, my desired spaghetti Bolognese arrived on the table some time later, with a flourish and a smile – as if I needed reminding why I’m a fan.

Tony’s Bar, The Strand, Sliema (2133 0602).

Fenkata Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant While not everyone’s cup of tea, one of Malta’s popular culinary traditions is fenkata – or rabbit feast. The experience is usually anything but refined, with the best places for fenkata usually being quite rudimentary, where the use of one’s hands is encouraged over cutlery.

Dating back to the 1930s, Lapsi View, overlooking the small rocky inlet of Ghar Lapsi in Siggiewi, started out as a simple bar run by Frenc Azzopardi, serving rabbit to Britain’s Royal Marines. Today, the place is known by most as Ta’ Rita, after his daughter, who took over in the 1960s, and is still widely celebrated for its delicious rabbit. Opinion is generally split over the best way to have your rabbit: either simply fried in garlic or stewed in gravy, but whichever your preference, the rabbit at Rita’s is hard to beat. I suggest grabbing a table outside and enjoying the view of the islet of Filfla and the deep blue waters beyond while you dig in.

Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant, Lapsi Road, Siggiewi (2164 0608).

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Goat’s cheese ravioli Rexy’s Bar & Restaurant Much like our language, what we consider traditional Maltese cuisine today is the result of an amalgamation of influences. Pasta, while originating in Italy, is widely loved and celebrated in Malta, and one of its most popular forms is ravioli. Traditionally served with a simple tomato and garlic sauce, and stuffed with ricotta, you’ll find ravioli on the menu in many places across the islands. The local spin however is ravioli stuffed with goats’ cheese, which is one of Gozo’s specialties.

The best place to find these is a small restaurant in the village of Ghajnsielem in Gozo. Serving mostly locals, its specialty is hard to miss when you pass by, with several aged signs advertising fresh and frozen ravioli decorating an adjacent wall and, interestingly, a neighbouring balcony. You can have your ravioli served the traditional way in a delicious sauce made with fresh tomatoes or in an altogether more decadent fashion – baked lasagne-style, coated in cream. If you’re not a big eater though, I have one word of advice for you – order the starter size.

Rexy’s Bar & Restaurant, Triq l-Imgarr, Ghajnsielem, Gozo (2156 0873).

Gozitan ftira Maxokk Bakery A visit to Gozo wouldn’t be complete without a traditional Gozitan ftira, and family-run Maxokk Bakery in Nadur is the best place to get it. The bakery itself is tiny – comprising a single room with soot-covered walls – thanks to the wonderful old stone oven – and, depending on the time of day, you’ll generally find a small queue of people overflowing into the street, waiting for pre-ordered ftira. Named after the family nickname, Maxokk Bakery has been around since the 1930s, and has gained a reputation for its trademark ftira tal-Maxokk, which has people from all over Malta and Gozo making the trip to Nadur.

At a glance, the ftira resembles a semi-closed pizza made using bread dough, which is soft and pillowy on the inside, and delightfully crunchy on the outside. While there are a number of toppings you can choose from, it is traditionally topped with sliced potatoes, onions and ricotta cheese, which I love, though I’m also partial to the addition of Maltese sausage for some extra bite. Absolutely delicious albeit quite heavy, I’d be hard pressed to find anything that will go down better, if a calorific cheat meal is what you’re after!

Maxokk Bakery, St James Street, Nadur, Gozo (2155 0014, www.maxokkbakery.com).

26 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Photos: Chris Briffa Architects

Stylish Slumber

Numerous old properties on the islands begging for a new lease of life are getting the luxury treatment they deserve thanks to a recent boom in the segment of boutique accommodation. Martina Said selects the cream of the crop and outlines what they have to offer.

Casa Ellul Merely a stone’s throw away from the Carmelite Church in Old Theatre Street, Valletta, is this gorgeous property which screams style and sophistication. Everything about Casa Ellul represents the result of a marriage between the past and the future, evident in its architecture, design and décor. Chris Diacono, manager of Casa Ellul, says that although the precise date of the construction of the building is not known, it is thought to be some time around 1830, “when baroque and rococo opulence was shifting towards a more toned down but increasingly elegant fashion characterised by a sense of lightness.”

The hotel features eight individually designed suites and offers all the luxuries you’d expect to find in a beautiful home, such as hand-woven rugs, antique wardrobes and stunning bathtubs and showers. Some rooms also have their own private hot tub on the terrace, while five of the suites have retained a number of original features including floor tiles, beams and wooden windows. “Casa Ellul is the first luxury boutique hotel of its

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kind in Valletta and is one of a kind too. It is attracting a diverse range of guests: from young couples after a romantic stay and culture-thirsty tourists who want to be in the heart of the capital to businesspeople and a few celebrities too.” Australian actor Chris Hemsworth and his model and actress wife were the latest celebrity couple to be caught on film making the hotel their base during their June 2015 visit to the islands.

Chris (Diacono) says the story of the house is undoubtedly what he loves most about it. “The hotel is run by two brothers who inherited this building which had belonged to their family for five generations. Being a family heirloom, they didn’t want to sell it and decided the best way to keep it and be involved with the building would be to convert it into a boutique hotel. They now manage the place together with the Casa Ellul team.”

81 Old Theatre Street, Valletta (2122 4821, www.casaellul.com). Rates starting from €200 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Trabuxu Boutique Living Another top-quality boutique property in the capital is Trabuxu Boutique Living. This charming hotel truly lives up to its promise of offering its customers a home away from home, complete with a concierge service that is not a 24-hour service, but rather a highly personalised one.

Previously a privately owned palazzo, the property is believed to be between 350 and 400 years old. Having been abandoned for many years, its owners returned it to its original state through a meticulous restoration process.

Kris Fenech Soler who runs Trabuxu Boutique Living (as well as Trabuxu Bistro and Trabuxu Wine Bar, see p56 and p59) describes the property as a traditional Maltese-style palazzo with superb features: “the main salon and numerous rooms spread over several floors and wrap around a central stone courtyard which is the heart of this property.”

Major restoration and renovation works, undertaken by highly regarded local designer Carlo Schembri, took approximately 10 months to complete, resulting in nine stunning rooms (two superior, two deluxe, four suites and an apartment with its own separate street entrance), as well as an inviting lobby/ bar area. “Each room has a distinct character drawn from Valletta’s history and is named accordingly: Araba takes from Malta’s rich Arabic influences; Dolce Vita boasts Italian-inspired features; Napoleone draws from Napoleon’s short but influential occupation and Mediterranea is influenced by everything that is wonderful about the Mediterranean region,” says Kris. All rooms offer modern facilities, ultra cosy beds, ensuite bathrooms and numerous amenities.

Photos: Mark Cassar

Although everything about this property is top-notch, its star features are the lobby and internal courtyard. The former gives a great initial impression – it is modern, welcoming and very relaxed, while the courtyard is simply beautiful; a tranquil space with unique quirky features.

84 Hospital Street, Valletta (2122 6196, www.trabuxuboutiqueliving.com). Rates (incl breakfast) standard double room €145; suite €185. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Palazzo Vittoriosa Across the waters from Valletta are the historic, fortified three cities of Cospicua, Vittoriosa and Senglea, one of which this stunning property is named after.

The picture-perfect palazzo was built in 1558 for a corsair who served the Knights of Malta, and is strategically located in the middle of the prestigious Collacchio area of Vittoriosa (see p97).

Its history is as rich as its interior – the house was also used by British Navy Officers during World War II and later as a social club, until it was bought in 2008 after 30 years of neglect during which the property was falling into gentle ruin.

Photos: Palazzo Vittoriosa

Remco Slik, the owner of Palazzo Vittoriosa, likens the property to a superyacht on land, where all facilities and services are there to serve guests in the most complete way possible. In fact, Palazzo Vittoriosa does not cater for single suite bookings – guests can only book the entire property for exclusive use of all its facilities and for total privacy. “After three years in operation, we have firmly established ourselves within this market segment,” says Remco. “Palazzo Vittoriosa is in a league of its own, and our guests value the exclusivity, tranquillity and 100 per cent personalised service that they get here.”

Restoration works on the property were carried out in such a way so as to retain most of the building’s original features. In fact, all the rooms are large and spacious, reminiscent of grand Maltese houses. “The palazzo comprises three suites and can accommodate a maximum of seven guests, who are free to use the dining room, open central courtyard, two living rooms, formal dining room, bar, gym, in-room Jacuzzi, outdoor Jacuzzi and pool, as well as an entertainment deck with stunning Grand Harbour and Valletta views.”

55 Hilda Tabone Street, Vittoriosa (2137 0830, www.palazzovittoriosa.com). Rates from €2,000 per night (incl breakfast) for the entire palazzo. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Photos: thisishush.com

Quaint Hotels If you’re looking for a similar experience but on the quieter island of Gozo, then you must check into the first of a chain of boutique hotels in Gozo by the name of Quaint Hotels.

Located in Nadur, the charming property was originally a hotel but closed its doors in 1901, and was subsequently used as a residence before being converted to its current state. Other boutique hotels bearing the same brand name, all of which were originally townhouses, are set to open in Xewkija, Ghajnsielem and Sannat.

Jankarl Farrugia, founder and managing partner of Hotelogique, the company behind Quaint Hotels and a number of other boutique accommodations, namely Palazzo Prince d’Orange in Valletta (see p64) and Jules Suites in St Julian’s, says one of the most striking features of Quaint Hotels is that each property occupies a prominent spot in different village squares, without overwhelming them. “Hotels are generally in the suburbs or on the outskirts of villages, but we have created

a particular hospitality offering within the core of the village, inviting guests to experience the authentic lifestyle of that village. We encourage them to discover what’s around them such as old bakeries and band clubs.”

Quaint Boutique Hotel in Nadur has 12 uniquely designed rooms – some classical yet contemporary, others ultra-modern – a restaurant for breakfast and dinner, and a shared lounge and reception area.

“It is a low-manned concept, firstly because of the small size of the hotel, but also because we want guests to feel at home as much as possible,” says Jankarl. The façade of the building has been kept intact and contrasts with the interior which is modern, hip and sophisticated. For guests to truly understand the property’s transformation, pictures depicting its evolution have been hung around the hotel’s common areas.

13 December Street, Nadur, Gozo (9999 3190, www.quainthotelsgozo. com). Rates (incl breakfast) €85 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

30 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Alan Carville

Making Malta home The Maltese islands have drawn people for millennia and their history is peppered by invasions and take-overs. Now though, the islands are attracting people for a completely different reason – expats want to make it their Mediterranean home. Jo Caruana finds out why.

T

here’s no doubting Malta’s status as a cosmopolitan nation: the island attracts over 1.5 million visitors every year, as well as thousands of people who choose to move here.

They come for many reasons: the strong economy, overall safety, excellent healthcare, sun, sea and Mediterranean sensibility, and most of them really relish what their new island home has to offer – whether they are raising a family, developing a start-up or seeking a tranquil retirement.

“It comes as no surprise that there has been a tremendous influx of expatriates seeking to relocate to Malta over the last decade,” says Dr David Tonna, senior partner at Mamo TCV Advocates, a law firm that has helped countless people to settle here.

“Aside from Malta’s strategic geographic location as the European Union’s southernmost member, the Maltese islands have become a namesake for the Mediterranean lifestyle and culture, which is renowned across the world.

“Also, as a member of the European Common Market, while also having a broad portfolio of different investment programmes and incentives, Malta is nurturing a healthy reputation as a favourable jurisdiction to foreign ventures, particularly as a gateway to the European market.”

As a result of all this, Malta is attracting people from all walks of life and, while the Maltese legal and economic environment affords different benefits to different fields of trade, the reasons why people decide to relocate to Malta are many and varied.

“Up until a few decades ago, the so-called ‘Penny Settlers’ made up the vast majority of immigrating expats,

originating from the United Kingdom and former colonies of the British Empire,” continues Dr Tonna. “But Malta has transcended its reputation as a mere summer hotspot and a retirement destination, and has increasingly come to be recognised as a European cultural centre – a newfound prestige which has attracted the attention of more than a few high-networth individuals.”

There are also several schemes in place to help attract people to live in Malta. “Economically, culturally and geographically, Malta’s attributes as a country have been the principal driving force behind this recent surge in interest, particularly from high-end expatriates. However there are added incentives which Malta offers in the form of flat-rate tax schemes under our different residence programmes, from which both EU and non-EU foreign immigrants can benefit,” Dr Tonna says.

Most expats also find that it’s easy to adapt to life here. “In our experience, clients generally have very little trouble settling into Maltese life,” he continues. “Though small, densely populated and increasingly cosmopolitan, Malta maintains its archipelagic small-island feel, boasting virtually negligible crime rates, a near-perfect climate and the renowned hospitality of its people.

“The fact that English is an official language, spoken by the majority of the Maltese population, has also helped immensely. And this, accompanied by the many English language schools, means that, with minimal effort, anyone can make the island one’s home with relative ease. Who knows? It could be the ideal home for you too,” Dr Tonna adds with a smile.

The islands have become a namesake for the Mediterranean lifestyle and culture

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Why Malta?

The expats who live in Malta often profess their love for it and become strong ambassadors of the island overseas.

Here we meet three very interesting people who have chosen to make the Maltese islands their home.

Alan Carville

Italian entrepreneur ENRICO APRICO is the CEO and founder of the retro-styled, foldable Dudebike, which is sold all over the world.

Although Enrico loves so many aspects of life in Italy, he and his business partners have found that Malta is the perfect place to work internationally, while also enjoying a fantastic Mediterranean lifestyle.

“When I think of Malta, I think of ‘the place to be’,” says Enrico, who successfully runs his international business here, while also travelling regularly. “The island has proved to be the ideal place to build a start-up company, and I really do think of it as the Singapore of the Mediterranean. Plus, with the omnipresent sun and sea, you can really enjoy living here too. I would highly recommend it.”

Favourites: Town: Sliema. I love the waterfront apartments and their gorgeous views, and it’s a great place to live and work.

British PR man and author JIM DUNN lives with his partner Arthur in Cospicua. Having created one of the largest travel and leisure PR companies in Europe in the 1980s, the couple retired to Malta several years ago, but still travel extensively. Jim’s memoir, ‘Very Private and Public Relations’, is available in bookshops.

“Arthur and I first arrived in Malta off a ship touring the Mediterranean and were immediately struck by the beauty and history of Valletta,” says Jim. “As we both have a ‘refurbishment addiction’ it didn’t take long for us to discover the property shop windows and learn how reasonable (to our London eyes and values) property is here.

We finally settled on a large townhouse in one of the Three Cities, which we redid from scratch. We love the islands and now stay here for most of the year, while spending January and February in Asia, and still keeping homes in Majorca and in central London.”

Beach: I like sandy beaches, so I head north to Mellieha (pictured here). It gets busy but you can still find a nice spot to while away the hours, and the water is really gorgeous and clean.

Restaurants: Fumia, in Pietà, is wonderful for formal dining and the food is authentically Italian so I feel at home. I love Legligin Wine Bar in Valletta for exactly the same reason, but because it’s traditionally Maltese – a great place to spend an evening with a glass of wine and friends.

Hang out: The social life on the island is really good. Café del Mar in Qawra is a fantastic summer spot to mingle with an international crowd.

Favourites: Shopping: While I do think Malta could still up its game in this area there are some good choices available. The Plaza in Sliema has a fantastic selection, and I love browsing the perfumery, Franks, for international brands such as Penhaligans, and Fortnum and Mason.

Historical sites: Valletta charms me every time and I am especially drawn to the gorgeous Manoel Theatre and stunning St John’s Co-Cathedral. They’re a must-visit with my guests from overseas and I think they’re among the best historical sites anywhere in Europe.

Restaurants: The foodie scene has improved dramatically in the six years we’ve been here. For informal dining I suggest the harbour-side restaurants in the Three Cities, while I love Chophouse in Tigné Point for the view and Tarragon in St Paul’s Bay (pictured here) for a really interesting menu. For oriental food I love the Rickshaw in Attard.

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House hunt

Alan Carville

Thinking of purchasing a property in Malta? Here are some of the ones that have caught our eye.

Brits Anna Ross and her husband John moved to Malta in 2007, shortly after they got married. Their work has taken them all over the world, but they were keen to settle back in Europe and be somewhere close to the UK. They have bought a house in the pretty village of Attard, where they live with their children Molly, 6, and Bertie 3, and run Malta Yacht Surveys.

“Malta presented itself as a very attractive place in which to base ourselves, not least due to the wonderful climate and easy access back to the UK,” says Anna. “John wanted to open his own business, and the fact that English is an official language in Malta made it much easier to deal with the practical issues of setting up and moving countries. We had also started to think about having children and already knew of the excellent healthcare facilities that Malta offered in addition to it being a very safe place to live, so that was a big factor in our decision.

“Molly and Bertie were both born here. We’ve found that Malta has a very favourable Mediterranean attitude towards children; for example it’s completely normal to see children dining out at restaurants with their parents in the evening – something that is not the norm in the UK. It’s given us a wonderful family lifestyle.”

Favourites: Village: We live in Attard, in the centre of Malta, and adore having such easy access to everywhere on the island. We are a short drive to the beach and the National Park in Ta’ Qali, and there are some wonderful cafés, wine bars, restaurants and shops within easy walking distance, as well as several play parks that the children love.

Family restaurant: Munchies in Mellieha Bay is certainly a favourite option for us.

The staff are wonderful, the prices are good and they have a great children’s menu too. As the restaurant itself is right on the beach, the children can play once they’ve finished their food, so the grown-ups get to have a bit of peace and quiet time in which to eat too!

We also like Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar (pictured here) which is slightly on the expensive side but the garden is spectacular and they have specifically catered for children by creating a little play area.

Family attraction: Our children love going to the National Aquarium. A wonderful day out for us involves visiting the aquarium in the morning and then spending the afternoon at Baia Beach in Armier Bay. The restaurant there is very good and, being a beach club, there are lots of good facilities for families, with wonderful views out to Gozo too. A trip to Mdina is also a must and there is a wealth of child-friendly cafés and restaurants to choose from there, as well as a good play park just outside the city walls.

36 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

This attractive three-bedroom townhouse in Paola, in the heart of Malta, is being sold through Frank Salt Real Estate (www.franksalt. com.mt). It is expertly converted and retains lots of traditional features. The accommodation is in the form of a welcoming hall, combined kitchen and dining area, living room, three double bedrooms, two ensuite rooms, a guest toilet, store room, laundry room and more. A 25sqm back yard complements the property. It is being sold freehold for €173,000.

Valletta is currently one of the most sought-after property destinations in the Mediterranean.

This apartment, being sold by Engel & Völkers Sara Grech (www.engelvoelkers.com/en-mt/ malta), is situated on one of the best streets in the capital and enjoys immaculate sea views, as well as vistas of St John’s CoCathedral, several church towers and Sliema Creek. The apartment has three double bedrooms with two walk-in-wardrobes. The main bedroom also has an ensuite bathroom and a sauna, and is home to a piece of Maltese history, with a fireplace dating back to 1904. It is being sold freehold for €900,000.

This unique converted bungalow is situated in a secluded part of Qrendi and available through Dhalia (www.dhalia.com). It is set on just under a tumolo of land and consists of three buildings accessed through one common entrance. It includes two maisonettes, one situated on the ground floor level and the other on the first floor, both with their own spacious outdoor areas. Beyond the maisonettes is a bungalow with a very large pool area and lovely mature garden.

In total, this property boasts seven double bedrooms, four kitchens, three dining rooms and six bathrooms (one ensuite). Each property features a functional fireplace, hydro massage bath, air-conditioning and spacious living areas. The space is ideal for large families who desire a unique home with ample outdoor space or investors looking to operate it as a B&B. This property is also located a stone’s throw away from some of the most popular historical sites on the island including Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples. It is being sold for €875,000.

viewingmalta.com/Lesile Vella

Valletta Overview and sightseeing 40 Where to eat 48 Where to drink 56 Shopping 59 Arts and entertainment 64 Where to stay 64

Valletta

viewingmalta.com/Lesile Vella

viewingmalta.com/Chen Weizhong

Valletta

St John’s Co-Cathedral. See p43.

The baroque capital The newly unveiled entrance to this celebrated UNESCO World Heritage site invites you into a capital bursting with history, culture, shopping and dining.

I

f you’ve been to Valletta before, you would now be forgiven for not recognising it immediately.

It wasn’t long ago that the entrance to the city – known as the City Gate – consisted of an imposing and bedraggled-looking stone structure. Today, though, following years of restoration work, a €61 million investment and a design from renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano, the entire entrance into Valletta has been given an incredible facelift.

That facelift includes the construction of two staircases to connect the upper and lower bastions in this part of the city, the construction of a new Parliament building and the modification of the Old Opera House (a vibrant, outdoor

cultural venue now known as Pjazza Teatru Rjal), which was bombed during World War II and left in tatters for decades.

So, Valletta’s City Gate is now a buzzing and contemporary space, and a fitting gateway into the city that will be Europe’s Capital of Culture in 2018. That said, the project hasn’t been without controversy and many still dislike Piano’s design – with some even calling the new Parliament a massive ‘cheese grater’; we’ll leave it to you to make up your own mind!

Of course, Valletta – Malta’s baroque city – has often been in a state of change: from the days when it was built by the Knights of St John with thick walls as a defence from an

The capital is a well-deserved UNESCO World Heritage site

40 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

impending Turkish invasion, to the devastating attacks that came from the sky during World War II and destroyed some of its gems. Thankfully, most treasures are all still here and should be high on your agenda to visit.

After all, the capital is a well-deserved UNESCO World Heritage site, with architectural gems to admire on every corner. It is also a shopping and dining mecca, and is particularly busy during the day with shoppers and office workers. At night, many bars and restaurants – particularly on the legendary Strait Street – open for business to give patrons a relaxed night out.

Stretching across just 2km at its longest point, and with its grid-like pattern of streets, the capital is easy to navigate, though it could take the best part of two days to visit all its sights.

Having been designed by the Knights of St John in the 16th century as their seat of power and residence, the capital is home to magnificent historical buildings, some looking as majestic as they did when they were first built (following meticulous restoration), and others whispering of the glorious days gone by in their abandoned state.

From City Gate head to the main thoroughfares for both cultural and commercial endeavours – the pedestrianised Republic and Merchants Streets.

There are many other streets worth exploring, of course, including quaint St Ursola Street and Archbishop Street with its imposing buildings.

Starting off on Republic Street, your first stop should be the National Museum of Archaeology, displaying a large collection of important archaeological discoveries. As you move on, stop to buy a scrumptious ice-cream or sorbet from the Amorino gelateria to keep you cool as you go – it will be the perfect accompaniment, especially if the weather is hot.

Further down you will come across the worldfamous St John’s Co-Cathedral. This church is a masterpiece of baroque art and architecture, and houses precious works of art, including Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, while the tapestries displayed within its museum, along with many other treasures, are priceless.

One of the best places to enjoy a spot of lunch, and a little bit of people-watching, while being serenaded by a street musician, is Republic Square (also referred to as Pjazza Regina), which is situated halfway down Republic Street. Here do not miss the façade of the National Library, which was the last public building erected by the Knights before the island was ceded to Napoleon Bonaparte.

The Grand Master’s Palace is adjacent to the Library, and has been the seat of authority from 1571 till spring 2015. Today, the Maltese Parliament has moved to Piano’s project in City Gate. Enter the Palace through its leafy courtyard and admire its incredible range of historical artefacts. Once in this part of the city, you could keep walking down to Fort St Elmo, which has undergone extensive rehabilitation works in recent years and was recently opened to the public for the first time in decades.

Just beyond this point, you’ll find the Valletta Breakwater – a feat of engineering that is also a beautiful spot from which to watch the boats come and go from the harbour.

Alternatively, stay in the centre. From the Palace you’ll step out into St George’s Square (also referred to as Palace Square), with dancing fountains, free Wi-Fi and benches to lounge on.

Lovers of art should not miss a visit to the National Museum of Fine Arts a short walk away from the square, where key works by renowned artists like Mattia Preti, Mattias

Valletta

Worth the walk

See the capital from a different angle, by walking right down to the coast.

Walk along Republic Street and turn left at the bottom, which will take you under a small tunnel and down to the rocky shore. A stroll here shows what Valletta’s rugged topography was once like, and you’ll enjoy pretty views as you wander around. Visual highlights include the Valletta Breakwater, inaugurated in 2012, as well as the recently restored Siege Bell Memorial.

Stomer and Guido Reni are displayed.

Valletta holds a few ‘best kept secrets of its own’, some of which provide rest and refuge from the crowds and a break from sightseeing. Hastings Gardens afford lovely views of Marsamxett Harbour, while the Upper Barrakka Gardens provide the best vista of Grand Harbour, with the Three Cities in the background, as well as the Saluting Battery below (a gun salute goes off at noon on the dot every day from the Saluting Battery). It’s from here that you can also take the newly reopened lift down to the waterfront of the city.

If you’re enjoying exploring, then you could head just outside the city to the Bastion Garden of Rest (2122 5952. Open 9.30am-noon Tue, Thur, Sat & first Sun of the month. Admission free), a beautiful

garden along the ring road of Valletta. Alternatively, stay in the centre and stop to rest your feet and grab a quick bite; head to local favourites such as Piadina Caffé in St Lucia Street, or Angelica’s in Archbishop Street.

For more interesting sights, look out for de Valette Square by the Old Opera House, as well as the first church to be built in Valletta, Our Lady of Victories, commemorating the Knights’ Great Siege victory over the Ottomans. Just a few metres away stands the majestic Auberge de Castille, which houses the office of the Prime Minister. An ongoing paving project will make this a space where it’s pleasant to spend time, and the works should be completed by November 2015.

Naturally, a long day of exploration can work up a hearty appetite. Night-time dining in Valletta is a romantic affair and, fortunately, Valletta offers some high quality restaurants and a number of bars for drinks.

Alternatively head to the scenic Valletta Waterfront. It is the ideal place to wrap up a busy day of touring by sipping a refreshing drink while admiring the majestic Fort St Angelo on the opposite shore of the historic Grand Harbour.

Churches Jesuits Church This church is famed as one of the oldest baroque churches in Malta.

It was built between 1592 and 1600, and reconstructed after extensive damage in 1634. Look out for one of Malta’s oldest sundials on the back of the church on St Paul Street, as well as gothic remnants from the old church that were discovered during its restoration. Valletta’s other sundial is in Republic Street on the façade of the Casino Maltese.

Merchants Street (2722 1241).

Open 6.15am-12.45pm daily; also 5-8pm Sat. Admission free.

Our Lady of Victories Church The splendid baroque façade of this pretty church, with its bronze bust of Pope Innocent XII, is a must-see. Built to commemorate the Knights’ victory over the Ottomans during the Great Siege, it has the distinction of being the first building and first church in Valletta, and it was personally funded by Grand Master de la Valette, who was also buried here before his remains were transferred to St John’s Co-Cathedral. Among many of its beautiful works of art, you’ll find a monument to the Venetian admiral Angelo Emo, as well as an altarpiece depicting the birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Victory Square (9963 7409, www. ourladyofvictory.org.mt). Open 8.30am3.30pm Mon-Fri. Admission free.

St John’s Co-Cathedral If your time on the island is limited and you can only visit one of the majestic churches, it should definitely be the world-famous St John’s Co-Cathedral. Commissioned in 1572 by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière as the conventual church of the Order, it is one of the most magnificent buildings to be found anywhere on the globe. Designed by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar and completed in 1577, it has a plain façade that hides a lavish interior.

The inner artistic decoration is all down to Italian artist Mattia Preti and the results include the magnificent 18 vignettes in the vault, depicting the life of its titular saint. The Co-Cathedral’s artistic value was further enhanced when the eight side chapels were decorated by different langues (regional groupings of knights) that installed monuments and mausoleums to commemorate the Grand Masters. Another priceless treasure within the Co-Cathedral is Caravaggio’s ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’, which he completed in 1608 during a brief stint in Malta; it is now considered by many to be one of the best works of art of the 17th century and the only signed Caravaggio

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Valletta

are not taking place, visitors are given a short guided tour on arrival.

Many come especially to see the wrist-bone of St Paul, which is displayed in an elaborate gold niche, and a part of the column to which he was tied when he was beheaded in Rome (the rest is in Rome).

Other items of interest include the altarpiece, by Italian artist Matteo D’Aleccio, the ceiling paintings by Attilio Palombi and Giuseppe Calì, a silver throne upon which the Holy Eucharist is placed and the titular statue by Melchiorre Gafà.

74 St Paul Street (2123 6013). Open 6.30am-12.30pm, 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat; 7am-noon, 4-6pm Sun. Admission free.

viewingmalta.com

Museums

in existence. The audio tour is excellent and really helps you to get to know the place, while there’s plenty to learn in the adjacent museum too. Exhibits include priceless Flemish tapestries, silverware, liturgical vestments, illuminated choral books and portraits of knights. Bear in mind that heels and inappropriate dress (shorts for men; short skirts and exposed shoulders for women) are not allowed in the Co-Cathedral.

St John Street (2122 0536, www. stjohnscocathedral.com). Open Co-Cathedral & Museum 9.30am4.30pm (last admission 4pm) Mon-Fri; 9.30am-12.30pm (last admission noon) Sat. Admission Co-Cathedral & Museum €6; €3.50€4.60 reductions; under-12s free.

St Paul’s Pro-Cathedral This is the only Anglican cathedral in Malta. It was founded by Queen Adelaide, the widow of King William IV, who spent the winter of 1838/39 in Malta and was keen to found a Collegiate church in the

Fortifications Interpretation Centre This museum, within a beautifully restored building that was built during the time of the Knights of St John, is a must-see in the capital. This recent initiative communicates and explains the history and meaning of Malta’s military architecture and its heritage – while that may sound a little dry, it’s actually fascinating.

There are helpful multi-lingual information guides, 28 interactive monitors and a free guided tour (which adds loads of curious facts and figures into the mix). This is a good option for families, with games and 3D puzzles for younger visitors.

St Mark Street (2122 8594). Open mid June-Sept 9am-1pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat; 9am-4pm Tue, Thur; Oct-mid June 10am-4pm Mon, Wed, Fri; 10am-7pm Tue, Thur; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Admission free.

Casa Rocca Piccola. See p47.

Anglican tradition. The British government provided a site, on the spot where the Auberge d’Allemagne (the conventual home of the German Knights Hospitaller) had stood. Queen Adelaide laid the foundation stone on 20 March 1839. The cathedral is built in the neo-classical style, and the spire is a Valletta landmark, rising to over 60m. While the cathedral does open regularly, it is run by volunteers and times can change at the last minute.

Independence Square (2122 5714, www.anglicanmalta.org).

Open 8.30am-12.30pm daily.

Admission against donation.

St Paul’s Shipwreck Church The Maltese attribute their Catholic beliefs to the shipwreck of St Paul on our islands, so it’s of little wonder that this church is of such importance for many of the faithful.

Built in 1609, it became a collegiate church in 1773 and its façade was finished over 100 years after that.

Provided that liturgical services

44 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

National Museum of Archaeology With finds that date back to 5,200 BC, this museum offers great insight into around 7,000 years of history – with a range of artefacts from the Neolithic (5,000 BC) to the Phoenician period (600 BC).

As you tour you’ll come across remnants from early settlements on the islands, such as pottery bowls, stone pots, carved spiral motifs and large altars, showcased at ground floor level. There is also a fascinating collection of human figurines, ranging from mysterious stone heads to full-sized figures of the ‘fat lady’, believed to represent a fertility cult. Look out for the fascinating temporary exhibition that’s being held in summer 2015, featuring a collection of coins dating back to Punic, Roman and medieval times.

Auberge de Provence, Republic Street (2122 1623, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-6pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 reductions; €2.50 children.

National Museum of Fine Arts This museum is currently going through a transition. In a couple

of years it will be relocated to the Auberge d’Italie, renamed MUZA, and restructured as the national community art museum as one of the Valletta 2018 projects (the project that will see Valletta through its journey to European Capital of Culture 2018). So, this is the best time to experience it in its current format, featuring a treasure trove of works by local and internationally acclaimed artists, including gems by the inimitable Mattia Preti, Frenchman Antoine Favray, beloved Maltese artist Giuseppe Calì and William Turner.

Aside from wonderful artwork, this museum also showcases items dating back to the 14th century and to the era of the Knights of St John, including precious Maltese silverware, statuary in marble, bronze and wood, fine furniture items and splendid majolica pieces.

On top of the wealth of beauty it houses, this opulent rococo venue, with its unique staircase, also has a fascinating history of its own. In fact, this building has hosted several high-ranking international personalities both as residents and as guests, including British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, King George V and Queen Elizabeth II of England.

As an insider tip, those looking to visit the Hypogeum in Hal Saflieni (see p98) should note that the Museum of Fine Arts often has a very limited number of last minute tickets available for purchase.

South Street (2122 5769, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am4.30pm (last admission 4.30pm) daily. Admission €5; €3.50 reductions; €2.50 children.

National War Museum Fort St Elmo was recently reopened to the public after extensive restoration. This museum, however, remained open throughout, illustrating Malta’s military history – from prehistory right up until the island’s accession to the EU, with a special focus on the two world wars. The most interesting displays include the photographic panels depicting the harsh conditions endured by the civilian population and the extent of damage caused during World War II. Among the highlights look out for an Italian E-Boat, an anti-aircraft gun, the Willis Jeep ‘Husky’ and the Gloucester Gladiator ‘Faith’.

A replica of the George Cross, awarded to the Maltese nation by King George VI, for incredible bravery and endurance, is also on display here. Another section of the museum is dedicated to the Royal Navy, showcasing uniforms, insignia, equipment, Malta convoys, a section of a Spitfire, a Junkers Juno engine and a Messerschmitt wing.

Fort St Elmo (2123 3088, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am6pm daily. Admission €10; €7.50 reductions; under-5s free.

Casa Rocca Piccola Away from the hustle and bustle of the capital’s shops, Casa Rocca Piccola is a stately home owned by the 9th Marquis de Piro. It was built in the late 16th century for Don Pietro La Rocca – a knight of Malta and an admiral – and boasts a private chapel, a gorgeous fourposter bed and a sedan chair that once belonged to a French knight, plus so much more. To find out the fascinating stories behind the items on display, join the hour-long guided tour which also includes a visit to the three underground World War II bomb shelters deep below the palace. For something a little more special visit the place at 7pm on Fridays for the Champagne Tour (€25), which is often led by the owner himself, Marquis Nicholas de Piro (book ahead).

74 Republic Street (2122 1499, www.casaroccapiccola.com). Open 10am-5pm (last admission 4pm) Mon-Sat. Tours on the hr. Admission €9; €5 students; under-14s free.

Grand Master’s Palace & Armoury This grandiose palace, which looms over the recently regenerated St George’s Square, was the seat of Malta’s rulers from the 16th century until very recently. Inside, the five State Rooms which are open to the public are lavishly decorated with coffered timber ceilings, priceless furniture, paintings of knightly pomp and British royals, colourful brocade, priceless Gobelin tapestries and a wonderful series of frescoes depicting glorious episodes of the Knights’ history. The Armoury holds over 4,000 pieces of military hardware, showcasing the gilded parade armour of various Grand Masters, the arms of common soldiers, personal armours of the nobility and some Turkish armour.

Particularly worthy of note are the suits of armour made in Milan for

The Lascaris War Rooms This underground complex of tunnels and chambers once housed the headquarters from where Malta conducted its war defence during World War II. Restored in 2007, this site now makes for a good family outing and there is a lot to learn about the island’s turbulent past. Multi-lingual audio guides are available, and the tour lasts around 40mins.

St James Ditch (2123 4717, www. wirtartna.org). Open 10am-5pm daily.

Admission €10; €5 under-16s.

The Malta Experience A great starting point for anyone visiting the island, this 45mins documentary is available in 18 languages and covers Malta’s 7,000-year-old history, focusing on all the important eras in a gripping manner. Fun for all the family, you’ll leave here with all the knowledge you need to really appreciate the islands’ eclectic history.

St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street (2552 4000, www.themaltaexperience. com). Open Shows on the hr 11am-4pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat, Sun; July-Sept no show at 2pm Sun. Admission €10; €7 students; €5 under-14s; free under-5s.

Malta 5D Travel through Malta’s history on this spectacular audio-visual journey, available in several languages, that boasts the best in multi-sensory, new-generation technology. This memorable adventure will enable you to witness the events that shaped the island with special 3D cinematic effects, leg ticklers, water sprays, air blasts, scents and the jostles of moving seats (although nonmoving seats are available if you prefer)! With breath-taking aerial views and an ingenious mix of past and present, this is a thrilling experience. Wheelchair accessible.

7 Old Bakery Street (2735 5001, www.malta5d.com). Open 9.30am4.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. Shows every 30mins. Admission €9; €6 under-14s; free under-3s.

T h e n e w ly r e s to r e d Fort St Elmo Although Fort St Elmo played a very important role in Malta’s military history, this once-majestic fortress was left in a state of dilapidation for decades. Now, after millions of euro in investment, this inimitable rehabilitated fortress has been reopened to the public.

F

ort St Elmo is located at the tip of the Sciberras peninsula, where Valletta was built in the late 16th century. Looking outwards onto the Mediterranean, the fort has extensive views of Grand Harbour and Marsamxett Harbour, which are, to this very day, important hubs for movement and trade.

But St Elmo’s story began long before Valletta’s blueprint was even thought up. In fact, the area’s geographical location had been identified centuries before.

“The strategic importance of the site was already recognised in the Middle Ages,” says Luisana D’Amato, the curator at Fort St Elmo. “The first fort, however, was built in 1551 after the Knights received reports that an Ottoman attack was looming. It was completed in six months.”

The Ottomans invaded Malta 14 years later, and the knights and soldiers within the fort defended it to the death. Nevertheless, it was lost to the enemy.

“After the Order’s unlikely victory in the Great Siege, though, Fort St Elmo was immediately reconstructed and enlarged by military engineer Francesco Laparelli,” she explains.

Until the end of World War II, additions and alterations were still being made to the fort, and it was only when the last British troops departed that it fell into disrepair.

Now, following years of restoration by Heritage Malta (the national agency for museums, conservation practice and cultural heritage), the fort has been given a new lease of life as a historical and architectural complex that takes visitors through centuries of history.

“On top of housing the National War Museum (see p44), which illustrates Malta’s military story from prehistory up until the island’s accession to the EU, we also run an audio-visual experience that recounts the story of the fort.

“Plus, there are other spots for visitors to explore, namely the church of St Anne, where the remains of the soldiers who died during the Great Siege were recently unearthed, the chapel of St Anne (pictured right), where the final battle before the fort was lost took place, and a monument dedicated to the victims of World War II, which is located on the roof. Fort St Elmo is sure to be an exciting addition to any itinerary,” Luisana concludes.

Fort St Elmo is open from 10am to 6pm daily, excluding 24, 25 & 31 Dec, 1 Jan & Good Friday. Admission €10; concessions available.

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Valletta

Auberge de Castille As the official seat of the Prime Minister, this building is not open to the general public. Nevertheless, its recently restored ornate exterior makes for an important stop on your tour of the capital. Built by the Knights of the Order of St John in the 16th century to house the Castilian Knights, this is an architectural masterpiece. Note the exquisite detail – the stone scrolls and thick shell ornamentation framing the louvered windows and the high staircase leading to the main door, which is topped by triumphal symbols such as drums, swords and flags. Its façade is an exaltation of Grand Master Pinto (his bust and coat of arms are over the doorway).

Castille Place. Not open to visitors.

Grand Master Wignacourt, as well as the full-length panoply made for Grand Master Garzes by Sigismund Wold of Landshut. Entrance to the palace is through a beautiful, large courtyard, shaded by exotic trees, that is overlooked by an elegant clock turret (known as the Pinto Clock) built in 1745. The Palace was also host to the Maltese Parliament from 1964 to 2015.

Merchants Street (2124 9349, www. heritagemalta.org). Open State Rooms 10am-4.30pm (last admission 4pm) Mon-Wed, Fri; 9am-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Closed during official state visits. Palace Armoury 9am-5pm daily. Admission State Rooms & Palace Armoury €10; €7 reductions; €5 under-11s; under-5s free.

Photos: Heritage Malta

Places of interest

National Library Built in the 1790s, Malta’s National Library has the distinction of being the last official building erected by the Order of St John, while its architecture marries baroque and neoclassical features seamlessly. Today, it is the home of Malta’s most important historical documents, with highlights including all state archives of the Knights of St John from their foundation in 1113, and the charter granting the Maltese islands to the Order by Charles V in 1530. Small exhibitions about a range of subjects, as well as events, are held fairly regularly.

Visitors are asked to present some form of identification upon entering (preferably a passport or an identity card).

36 Old Treasury Street (2123 6585). Open mid June-Sept 8.15am1.15pm Mon-Sat; Oct-mid June 8.15am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8.15am1.15pm Sat. Admission free.

Valletta Living History Another audio-visual highlight, this short film, available in eight languages, focuses on the convoluted history of Malta’s capital city and the evolution of the island’s unique culture and identity. It is exclusively shown at the Embassy Complex (see p59).

Embassy Complex, St Lucia Street (2722 0071, www.maltaattraction. com). Open Shows every 45mins 10am-3.15pm daily. Admission €9.75; €7 students; €4 children.

Valletta Waterfront As one of Malta’s most vibrant destinations, the Valletta Waterfront features a series of restored 18th-century vaults (where the Knights of St John and European merchants used to

Where to eat Some of the island’s best restaurants can be found in Valletta, and it’s a fantastic spot for lunch and dinner. Most eateries here are in historic locations.

Cafés

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Valletta

unload their wares) which now house cafés, bars, restaurants and shops. The view of Grand Harbour and the Three Cities is absolutely stunning. To get here, simply take the Barrakka lift down from the city centre to the waterfront.

Visit www.vallettawaterfront.com for updates and special events.

Manoel Theatre Recently voted one of the 15 most beautiful theatres in the world

by CNN, this place is a must for any culture-vulture looking to experience the island’s theatre scene, or for architectural buffs with a passion for the baroque. It is one of the world’s oldest working theatres and its construction was funded by Grand Master de Vilhena. The acoustical technology utilised is still valid today and, as a result, most performances forgo the use of microphones.

Check the website or booking office for plays, concerts and other performances that are staged in the theatre throughout the year, particularly in winter (a number of performances are in English), and for the times of the daily tours of the theatre and its small museum.

Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt). Open Theatre & museum Tours 9.30am4.30pm (last entry 4pm) Mon-Fri; 9.30am-12.30pm (last entry noon) Sat. Tickets €5 (incl audio guide).

Manoel Theatre

C R I T I C S ’ C HO I C E Restaurants

Angelica Full of character and very chic, the food served here is locally sourced and delicious, with a fabulous wine and champagne list to match. See p51.

Black Pig There’s an exciting and modern twist to all the food served at this restaurant, set within a 17th-century palazzo. See p52.

Da Pippo If it’s good enough for celebrities, it’s good enough for us! And the pasta here is definitely good enough for us. Lunch only. See p52.

Giannini The views out to sea and the fine-dining menu make this one of the smartest spots in the city. See p52.

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The Harbour Club Delicious Mediterranean cuisine and a stunning view. See p52.

Malata For delicious French food, live jazz music and a gorgeous setting, it’s hard to beat Malata. See p55.

Palazzo Preca From shellfish platters to homemade pasta, the fine fare served here makes Palazzo Preca ideal for a special occasion. See p55.

Rampila A unique setting, both indoors and out, combined with great cuisine, make Rampila a must-visit. See p55.

Zero Sei Simple Roman cooking at its best, including some of the best pasta in the capital. See p56.

Caffé Cordina This café is more of an institution, and Valletta residents have been flocking here for their daily coffee since the 1940s. Try to snag one of the tables in the historic square – known as Pjazza Regina, or, failing that, indoors under the recently restored ceiling embellished with paintings by the renowned artist Giuseppe Calì and glimmering with 18 carat gold-painted leaves. This place serves up hundreds of pastizzi (pea or cheese cakes) every day, as well as other favourites including goats’ cheese ravioli, kannoli talirkotta (sweet ricotta-stuffed pastry cases) and healthy smoothies. For the perfect take-home souvenir, buy a box of the beautifully packaged Maltese honey rings or pastini (sweet pastries).

244, 5 Republic Street (2123 4385, www.caffecordina.com). Open mid June-Sept 8am-7pm Mon; 8am-9pm Tue-Sat; 8am-3pm Sun; Oct-mid June 8am-7pm Mon-Sat; 8am-3pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Café Prego This stalwart café and sandwich bar is known to have retained its high standards since it first opened its doors in 1947, around which time it was home to Malta’s first coffee machine. Blend in by opting for a steaming te fit-tazza (tea in a glass cup), toast, focaccia or cheese cake. It may not be gourmet, but it’s certainly a cultural icon.

58 South Street (2122 4062).

Open 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 8am-1pm Sat. No credit cards.

Culto Despite its size, this little café provides fresh food and some of the most delicious coffee in the capital. While here, make the most of the free Wi-Fi as you take your pick from the daily-changing menu – we always opt for a salad or a risotto (a recent favourite was the ham and pea one). Make sure you also leave room for one of the vegan desserts or almond pastries.

49 St John Street (2749 6810). Open 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.15am5.30pm Sat. No credit cards.

Valletta

Kantina Café & Wine Bar Watch the world go by as you dine in the shade under the trees next to St John’s Co-Cathedral, or indoors in pretty surroundings.

This casual café is a great spot for a quick snack, lunch, or a pre-theatre glass of wine or cocktail, which can be enjoyed with a variety of meat and cheese platters. Some of our top choices include the famous ftira – Maltese bread with a variety of fillings, the seafood linguine and the pan-fried rabbit. However, if it’s a less healthy fix you’re after, the Kantina Special Burger served with salad and chunky fries is delicious.

Wash everything down with one of the milkshakes or smoothies.

103b, c St John’s Square (2723 0096).

Open 8am-11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-5pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Museum Bar Tucked away in one of Valletta’s side streets, this little bar started life in 1921 and has been run by the same family ever since. It is a much-loved spot for office workers on their lunch breaks who queue and crowd for the pies, pasta and hobz biz-zejt (local bread topped with olive oil, sweet tomato paste and olives). The specials change daily and you could also construct your own sandwich from the various ingredients on display. Always leave room for the fresh dessert of the day – we love the fresh fruit salad, apple pie and the sinfully delicious chocolate confection.

24 Melita Street (2124 2833). Open 7am-4pm Mon-Fri; 7am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Piadina This is a homely spot popular with office workers after a healthy or hearty breakfast or lunch. Piadina’s affable owner Giada definitely knows her stuff, and popular choices include barley, rice and quinoa salads, grilled vegetables, couscous, wraps, buckwheat, black and red rice, as well as the famed piadinas – the parma ham, mozzarella and rocket one is a firm favourite. There are also a few gluten-free choices to be found here, so everyone is taken care of.

24 St Lucia Street (2122 5983, www. piadinacaffe.com). Open 8am4pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Soul Food There’s a fun vibe to this new ‘kitchen’, where the focus is on fresh and healthy dishes.

Depending on what’s in season, you’ll find traditional Italian cuisine, as well as vegetarian and vegan specialities. The homemade desserts are also vegan and gluten-free – the carrot cake is a staple, while the cheesecake topped with strawberry jam made from local strawberries is delicious. A lively soundtrack underpins the ambience here, with regular live performances too.

Angelica

76 Merchants Street (2123 4311). Open 10am-6pm MonFri, Sun. No credit cards.

Fusion La Mère Restaurant With a delightful menu of Arabic, Indian, Maltese and Mediterranean choices, this is fast becoming the restaurant of choice for diners who aren’t sure what they fancy.

The good news is that La Mère manages to hit the nail on the head with all four cuisines, so whether you want a portion of grilled aubergines, an Indian platter or a pasta dish to start, you’ll be making a good choice. We also suggest the sabbidij makli (very lightly battered calamari with garlic, za’tar and ground almonds) or the sujuk (grilled spicy lamb sausage with garlic, tomatoes and green chillies) to kick-start your meal. For mains, we simply love the traditional Indian thali – a selection of sizzlers which are cooked in a tandoori clay oven over charcoal flames; and when it comes to dessert nothing beats the sweet Indian ice-cream made with cardamom, saffron and pistachios.

La Mère also operates a ‘bring your

own’ concept – you can take your own bottle of wine and be charged a minimum corkage fee of €4.50.

174 Merchants Street (2122 3256, www. lamere.com.mt). Open noon-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €13-€18.50. Credit DC, MC, V. Maltese Angelica The brainchild of local food writer Mona Farrugia, Angelica offers exquisite food in a beautiful indoor and outdoor setting that’s full of character. Open all day and evening, it is one of the few places in Valletta which does not close, and which opens seven days a week. We adore the real Maltese food here with locally sourced and fresh ingredients set in a stylish, rather than touristy, environment.

Try the calamari stuffed with salmon and swordfish, the slowroasted pork belly with crackling, the fresh sea urchin on toast and, of course, the much-loved rabbit in champagne – so soft it falls off the bone. Angelica has live music, champagnes and wines by the glass, and artisanal beers from Gozo. This chic-yet-relaxed eatery regularly features in

Jamie Oliver’s magazine, and for good reason. Absolutely not one to miss, but do book – it’s small.

134 Archbishop Street (2122 2777, www.angelicamalta.com). Open 11am-late (times vary) daily. Main courses €10-€20. Credit MC, V. Nenu the Artisan Baker Inspired by the art of Maltese baking, you’ll find really good local food here. Start your meal by touring the bakery itself to watch talented bakers using the original wood-fired oven (over 100 years old) that has been carefully restored to its former glory. If you’re in a group of eight or more, experienced bakers will guide you through the art of ftira-making, using authentic ingredients.

Next it’s time to sample the scrumptious fare. The dining area within Nenu’s is bursting with genuine, local dishes including rabbit-stuffed ravioli with cream, tomato, onion and white wine, fenek tradizzjonali (traditional rabbit) and, of course, the renowned ftira (unleavened Maltese bread) with a variety of delicious fillings.

Round your meal off with the soufflé Malti – delicious sponge with ricotta and custard.

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143 St Dominic Street (2258 1535, www.nenuthebaker.com). Open 11.45am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; also 11.45am-2.30pm Sun Septmid June. Main courses €7-€21.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mediterranean Ambrosia True to its name, this beloved Valletta eatery, led by long-time chef and restaurateur Chris Farrugia, is fit for the gods. The restaurant’s fresh colour-scheme sets the scene for a lovely meal and we’ve never been disappointed – especially thanks to the daily-changing menu. There are, however, numerous staples we look forward to, including the warm chicken liver and summer salad in summer, and the pancake stuffed with cray fish and broccoli in winter, followed by the veal cooked in breadcrumbs, lemon and sage for mains. For dessert the sublime meringue with poached apricot and praline ice-cream is hard to beat. In the summer, try to snag one of the tables in the new outdoor area on this pretty street, where you can watch the world go by.

137 Archbishop Street (2122 5923, www.ambrosia.com.mt). Open noon-2pm Mon-Fri; 7-9.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €18-€28.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Black Pig Owner Andrew Borg will certainly make you feel at home when you dine within this impeccable eatery, which is set within part of a beautiful 17th-century palazzo. The food here is given a modern twist, and there are four daily starters and main courses to choose from, while the desserts are home-made,

depending on what’s in season.

There’s also a 55-strong wine list of biodynamic wines, which will complement your meal perfectly.

95, 96 Old Bakery Street (2122 1606, www.blackpig.com.mt).

Open 12.30-2pm Tue-Fri; 7.3010pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Browns Browns does not only offer a tasty dining experience, but an all-round good time through its combination of Browns outlets, which are next door to each other. These have a scrumptious selection of food to be enjoyed on the Valletta Waterfront – all crafted by head chef Jonathan Mamo and director Sandro Mamo and their team. Particularly noteworthy are the seafood spaghetti for starters and the veal ossobuco for mains, followed by the home-made white chocolate cherry cheesecake for dessert.

Vault 3 & 4, Valletta Waterfront (2702 0471, www.brownsmalta.com). Open 10am-11pm daily. Main courses €13.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cockney’s Bar & Restaurant At the centre of the Marsamxett Harbour and just a hopping distance from the Sliema-Valletta ferry, this well-known, family-run restaurant is perfect for long, lazy lunches with a beautiful view. The menu is predominantly fish-based, with starters including spaghetti with prawns or mussels, delicious aljotta (Maltese fish soup) and the much-loved ‘X’etto’, which offers a mélange of calamari, octopus and king prawns. As for mains, the catch of the day is always a safe bet, cooked just the way you like it. Alternatively, there are non-fish options, such as fried local goats’ cheese or rabbit stew.

Nenu the Artisan Baker. See p51.

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If you dine here, try to bag a table right at the edge of the terrace, and sit back and relax as you enjoy views of Fort Manoel, while, perhaps enjoying a glass of wine from the 80-strong wine list.

Marsamxett Wharf (2123 6065, www.cockneysrestaurant.com). Open noon-3pm daily; also 7-11pm daily June-Sept. Main courses €15-€24.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. D’Office Shabby-chic in style, this restaurant is one of several along one of the capital’s prettiest streets, just around the corner from the Grand Master’s Palace (see p47).

Nab a table on the road, and listen as musicians (and the general public) give impromptu performances on the piano kept there, or go indoors for a more intimate setting. The daily specials here are always a good choice, while the risottos are known far and wide as being some of the best on the island. The main menu also has a great choice, including traditional Maltese fish soup (aljotta) to start with, and beef olives or stewed rabbit for mains, followed by the must-try home-made white chocolate pannacotta. The bar is well-stocked and the staff are very friendly.

132 Archbishop Street (2722 1475, www.d-officevalletta.com). Open 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses €15-€20. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Da Pippo With up to a three-week waiting list for a table, it’s no wonder that Brad and Angelina (yes, THE Brad and Angelina) were willing to put themselves into chef Francesco’s hands whilst working on a film here in 2011. You’ll start with complimentary appetisers to whet your appetite, followed by whatever pasta sauce comes recommended that day – the sea urchin, the Maltese sausage and the clam sauce varieties are among the most delicious on the island, while the lobster ravioli is a firm favourite too. For mains try the veal t-bone, followed by the new chocolate biscuit and banoffee pie for dessert.

136 Melita Street (2124 8029).

Open 11.30am-3.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €18-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Elia If you feel like some good, oldfashioned Greek cuisine then this small eatery in the heart of Valletta is the place for you. Opened by Labros from Greece, and with his mother Eugenia as the chef, the food is genuine, very tasty and well-priced. The menu has recently been expanded and we recommend the delicious moussaka, mixed grill, meatballs in tomato sauce and the rice-stuffed okra for vegetarians.

For a sweet treat we suggest the delicious baklava or some very refreshing yoghurt and honey,

which goes down a treat in the summer months – possibly enjoyed in the new outdoor area. The daily warm buffet, starting from €10, is great value for city dining.

73 Merchants Street (2768 9525).

Open noon-3.30pm, 6.30-11pm daily. Main courses €8. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Giannini Make sure you book ahead to snag a table on the balcony of this restaurant which has breath-taking views and a dreamy menu. Chef patron Aaron De Giorgio has poured every ounce of his passion into this place and the result is a modern dining experience that rarely fails to impress. Giannini specialises in Mediterranean cuisine, with daily specials scribbled on a blackboard. There’s an extensive wine list to choose from too.

23 Windmill Street, St Michael’s Bastions (2123 7121, www.giannini. com.mt). Open noon-2pm, 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat; also noon-2pm Sun Oct-May. Main courses €17-€26.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Harbour Club This is one of the capital’s newest haunts but it’s gaining ground very quickly – not least because of its chic old-meets-new décor, incredible view and fantastic cuisine. Located just a few seconds’ walk from the lower entrance of the Barrakka lift, this eatery is great for dinner, or even just drinks. The food, such as the tartare of Irish angus beef with a parmesan cream and pickled shallots to start with, the pan-roasted duck breast with a red cabbage purée or the vegetarian white and green asparagus millefoglie for mains, and the homemade pannacotta, are delicious.

4, 5 Barrierra Wharf (2122 2332).

Open noon-3pm Tue-Sun; 7-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €18-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Il-Horza Set in a former wine tavern dating back to the time of the Knights of St John, Il-Horza is found in a quaint part of the city. And while it may be easy to miss, you should definitely make it a point to dine here. The service is attentive and the food (and particularly the meat) fabulously tasty. In fact, patron Charles Bone and chef Carlos Buttigieg have crafted a scrumptious menu that will appeal to many. The pasta, freshly made in-house, is lovely, and the cavatelli with prawns make an excellent starter. For mains, we suggest the barbecued pork shoulder served on a bed of fresh vegetables, the Angus rib-eye or the veal cutlets.

For dessert there’s the wonderful white chocolate pannacotta and a great mix of fruity and ‘chocolatey’ offerings. Whatever you have, however, make sure to try one of the 200+ wines on the list.

La Sfoglia Brothers Samuel, Jerome and Oswald Caruana have teamed up to produce a mouth-watering menu which changes daily, and which can be read on the blackboard inside the restaurant. With a selection of mostly Mediterranean food, La Sfoglia has a fabulous choice of fresh fish and seafood – we keep coming back for the bluefin tuna tartare and the pasta with sea urchins. The meat doesn’t disappoint either, including the roasted 350g rib-eye steak and the rack of veal. Oh, and be sure to leave room for the vanilla and cinnamon pannacotta or the signature, baked white chocolate cheesecake – absolutely scrumptious!

66, 67 Merchants Street (7991 9966, www.lasfogliarestaurant.com). Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses €14.50€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Malata For the ultimate romantic evening, you would be hard pressed to beat this picturesque spot on vast St George’s Square, which is made even more magical by the designer lighting and dancing fountains opposite. The menu here is a blend of French and Mediterranean cuisines, and your hosts, Verney and her sons Michael and Rowan, are a delight. Start off with the mixed fish carpaccio or goats’ cheese with caramelised onion.

Follow that by the signature chateaubriand or the monkfish cooked in tarragon Sauternes sauce. Round things off with a dessert – the coffee-flavoured pannacotta is our favourite. For something that little bit extra special, book ahead for the Tuesday Jazz Nights, held weekly (weather permitting) between 8 and 11pm.

St George’s Square (2123 3967, www. malatamalta.com). Open July-Oct noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 7-11pm daily; Nov-June noon-3pm daily; 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €13.50€28. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Mandraggio This is one of a number of Italianrun eateries that’s recently opened in the capital, and it is one of the most popular. As one of the few restaurants in Malta serving traditional cuisine from the Puglia region of Italy, we suggest the authentic pizza – which really is something to write home about.

For dessert, leave room for the warm tart made with cream, amarena and shortcrust pastry, and served with ice-cream.

Piazza Mattia Preti (7993 7811). Open 9.30am-3pm, 5pm-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses €7-€25. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Valletta

6 St Christopher Street (2122 6936, www.ilhorza.com). Open Sept-June noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; July, Aug 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €14-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Rampila

Palazzo Preca It has at its helm members of one of the most famous foodie families on the island, so you’re pretty much guaranteed to have a fantastic meal here. The décor feels regal so it’s ideal for special occasions – especially on candlelit Wednesdays, when a sense of romance is given the chance to shine. Choose from the blackboard specials – the famous shellfish platter, which includes oysters, scallops, octopus and calamari is always delicious, as are the home-made prawn ravioli and the vegan spaghetti with capers, olives and fresh tomatoes. Dessert is wonderful too, with the house special featuring mini versions of all the best choices including a yummy chocolate hazelnut pudding. The 175-strong wine list features a range of vintages from Malta and abroad.

Strait Street (2122 6777, www. palazzoprecavalletta.com). Open JuneSept noon-3.30pm Tue-Sat; 6.45-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-May noon-3.30pm TueSun; 6.45-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €13-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Pegasus Over 80 per cent of the produce used at this wonderful restaurant is locally sourced, so it gives great insight into Maltese ingredients. It’s the ideal place to dine after a busy day of sightseeing or shopping, housed within the beautiful (and historic) Hotel Phoenicia (see p64).

The menu has been expertly crafted by executive chef Saul Halevi and the setting is intimate and exciting. For starters, we loved the seared artichokes and calamari, with toasted squid-ink bread, mint and lemon, followed by the paccheri with local sea urchins, buffalo stracciatella and wild thyme, as well as the rack of lamb in a

hazelnut and pistachio crust for mains. We rounded things off with the crunchy pistachio semifreddo and can certainly recommend it!

Pegasus will be closed between November 2015 and April 2016 for extensive restoration.

Hotel Phoenicia, The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta. com). Open July-Sept 7-10.30pm Thur-Sun; Oct-May 12.30-3pm, 7-10.30pm daily. Main courses €18€32. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

loved the antipasto of raw and cooked fish, followed by the catch of the day or the perfectly cooked fillet of beef. We rounded things off with the popular chocolate fondant and the interesting cannolo scomposto – a deconstructed version of the traditional Sicilian cannoli.

Marina Street, Pieta (2123 0336, www. lavelamalta.com). Open 12.30-3pm, 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; also 12.30pm-3pm Sun Oct-May. Main courses €13-€30.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Rampila Situated within Valletta’s bastions, Rampila is made up of four sections: the terrace, the wine bar, the tunnel restaurant and an exhibition space that houses 40 mannequins dressed up in period costumes showcasing village life from 100 years ago. Each of the sections is spectacular, both visually and historically. Kick off your meal with the quail wrapped in pork cheeks and served with a sweet pepper sauce, fried shallots and red wine reduction, followed by the bistecca Fiorentina for two. Dessert is a must, and we recommend the chocolate tart with hazelnut cream. To wash everything down, check out the extensive and reasonably priced wine list.

1 St John Cavalier Street (2122 6625, www.rampila.com). Open July-Sept 5.30-10.30pm daily; Oct-June 11ammidnight daily. Main courses €25-€30.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Rubino The daily menu at Rubino, famous for its celebration of Mediterranean and Maltese food, is scribbled on a blackboard and explained as you make your choices – there’s always a delicious selection of antipasti and dips, followed by fresh fish and local meat. If you’re daring, you could try the traditional Maltese items that pop onto the menu, often made with tongue or liver. Otherwise, we suggest the Maltese rabbit, the grilled pork fillet marinated in honey and thyme, or the tasty tagliata of grilled beef served with parmesan shavings. If you fancy something fishy, the sea bass involtini with mint and pine nuts are pretty hard to beat. We also love to end a meal here with the renowned cassata Siciliana or Maltese ice-cream (served in slices) or imqaret (dates cooked in pastry) with ice-cream.

53 Old Bakery Street (2122 4656, www.rubinomalta.com). Open 12.30-2.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €18.50.

Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Ristorante La Vela Really good Sicilian cuisine is the order of the day at this popular restaurant outside Valletta, and chef Enrico Alecci leads the way.

The lovely outdoor area has been recently upgraded, and this is a great place to make the most of the view across to the harbour.

Seafood is the speciality, and we

Sciacca Grill There’s no such thing as a fixed menu at this new eatery, which is very popular with the business crowd for lazy lunches. There’s an air of the good-old American

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south here: it’s all about the meat, and there’s a host of cuts to choose from, all meticulously selected by the head chef. Stylish and casual, the food is reliably good, and there’s always a vegetarian choice on the menu too. It’s best to call ahead to book a table.

South Street (2123 7222, www. sciaccamalta.com). Open noon3.30pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-3.30pm Sun. Main courses €26. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Scoglitti This restaurant is a delight, not least because it’s set in an old police station, which gives it all sorts of character. The fish is as fresh as you can imagine, and even caught on the restaurant’s own boat and brought straight to shore. The meat, chicken and pasta choices are also very good, followed by the home-made ice-cream and torta setteveli with chocolate and hazelnut layers.

8 Boat Street (2123 5548, www. scoglitti.com.mt) Open July-Sept noon-4pm, 7-11pm daily; Oct-June noon-4pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon4.30pm Sun. Main courses €15€40. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Sicilia Bar & Restaurant Secure a table overlooking Grand Harbour and enjoy lunch in the sunshine at this simple spot.

Although it may not be a grand experience (there’s no silver service here), the food is very good and authentically Sicilian. Locals love it for the hearty portions, especially for Sunday lunch when you can pretty much leave yourself in the hands of the team here. The pasta is some of the best in the city, and includes the tasty marinara, the spaghetti with lobster, capers, fresh tomatoes and mint, and the farouk versions. For mains, enjoy the fresh fish, king prawns or Black Angus fillet. End your meal with the delicious Sicilian sweets that our neighbouring island is famous for, such as the cassatella or biscotti di mandorla. And if you don’t make it for lunch, try having breakfast here while watching the city wake up to another day.

1 St John Street (2124 0569). Open 8am-5pm Tue-Sat; also 7-10pm Sat July-Sept. Main courses €15-€30.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

or an exhibition, and thanks to its sister wine bar’s influence, there’s a fantastic selection of vintages to accompany your meal. Both the restaurant and wine bar will be closed for two weeks in the middle of August.

South Street (2122 0357, www.trabuxu. com.mt). Open noon-3pmMon-Sat; 7-11pm Mon-Thur; 7pm-midnight Fri, Sat. Main courses €17-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

an extensive list, from jasmine to ginseng or green tea. The restaurant can get very busy so booking early is recommended.

Vault 14, Valletta Waterfront (2122 5310, nanyuan@maltanet.net). Open 11.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun; 7-11.30pm daily. Main courses €8.50-€20.50.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

selection of foods for light lunches and snacks all day, accompanied by the fine wines imported by Charles Grech, which are also for sale in the cellar downstairs.

10 Republic Street (2122 8848, www.charlesgrech.com). Open 8am-11pm Mon-Thur; 8am-1am Fri-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Where to drink

Zero Sei Simple, delicious Roman cooking is the cornerstone of this trattoria, which is situated right opposite the Manoel Theatre. Roman chef Gianni has got quite a reputation for some of his pasta dishes, including the carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper), as well as the daily specials. We suggest leaving your choice in his hands so as to make the most of the freshest ingredients – but do leave room for the tiramisu for dessert.

75 Old Theatre Street (2122 2010).

Open 11am-3pm, 7-11pm TueSun. Main courses €14. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

The great Mediterranean wine bar is at the centre of most evenings out in Valletta, and there are some fantastic ones to choose from, as well as some more cosmopolitan options too.

Django Jazz Bar Live music is one of the staples at this casual venue, with jazz and blues as the favourites.

Performances usually take place from Thursday to Saturday, although it’s best to check the Facebook page for updates. The atmosphere is friendly, and Raf or Josh will probably take your order – we recommend trying any one of the 40-odd craft beers, accompanied by a food platter.

211 Republic Street (9994 4939, www. djangojazzbar.com). Open 7pm1am Thur-Sun. No credit cards.

Oriental Nan Yuan If you’re craving something oriental, this Chinese restaurant is pretty hard to beat quality-wise, and you’ll be happy to know that al fresco tables are also available.

We love the dim sum starters, which can be steamed to make them more healthy, followed by sizzling beef, tasty aromatic duck with pancakes or steamed seafood with ginger. We’re also keen on the good-value set menus at the fixed price of €25.50 or €30.75 per person. If you prefer tea to wine with your meal, Nan Yuan offers

Trabuxu Bistro Husband-and-wife team Kris and Krista run both this welcoming eatery as well as the Trabuxu Wine Bar (see p59) just across the road. The food here is always fresh and tasty, with a fusion of flavours.

The menu includes delights such as salmon gravlax cured in salt, sugar and dill, followed by veal cooked in a fresh lemon sauce. There’s also a lovely deli counter and daily specialities.

Due to its location, it is ideal for a bite before or after the theatre 56 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Café Jubilee Established in Gozo by the Scicluna brothers in 1998, this franchise now includes two outlets in Malta and sells its products in major supermarkets to boot. It’s busy from breakfast right up until last orders, usually packed with a chatty crowd of professionals, actors, artists and musicians. In fact, there’s a regular calendar of live entertainment every Wednesday and Friday. You should also pay particular attention to the décor while enjoying the menu.

125 St Lucia Street (2704 2332, www.cafejubilee.com). Open 8am1am daily. Credit DC, MC, V. Other locations 209 The Strand, Gzira (2133 7141); 8 Independence Square, Rabat, Gozo (2155 8921).

Charles Grech Café & Cocktail Bar This trendy café-cum-bar has become Valletta’s place to be and a favourite among the ‘in’ crowd that spills out onto the street during the weekends, especially after a cultural event. There’s a great

Loop Bar. See p59.

Gifen Bar Bursting with authenticity, this city bar and restaurant – located just across from St Paul’s Church – makes for a pleasant drink, snack or meal. Both the food and drink here promise really good value, with a range of sandwiches, pasta dishes and grills. It does get very busy, very fast, so it’s best to book well in advance, and do bear in mind that the menu is reduced to toasties, appetisers and drinks on Sundays.

27 St Paul Street (2702 0014).

Open 7am-4pm Mon-Sat; 7.30am3pm Sun. No credit cards.

Gugar – Hangout & Bar The Gugar started when a group of friends wanted to create a space they could enjoy together, and it has quickly turned into one of Valletta’s most popular hangouts. The atmosphere is flexible and friendly, and you can expect everything from filigree workshops to tropical parties. The food is fantastic too, with lots of vegetarian and vegan choices.

89A Republic Street (2703 2837, www.gugarmalta.blogspot.com).

Open June-Sept 7pm-1am Tue; 10am-4pm, 7pm-1am Wed-Sat; 7pm-1am Sun. No credit cards.

Legligin Wine Bar Legligin Wine Bar does what it says on the tin, and if it’s wine you’re after, then owner Chris will be more than happy to help – in fact, he isn’t too keen on serving you anything else! Staff members are also connoisseurs so they will help you make the most of the international selection. The home-made cabernet and shiraz wines are particular favourites, accompanied by a tasting menu of Maltese and Mediterranean food for €23.95 per person.

119 St Lucia Street (2122 1699).

Open 6.30pm-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

StrEat Whisky & Bistro Whisky takes centre stage at StrEat, which has become a popular bar among the island’s young ‘IT’ crowd. The food is delicious too, with a selection of platters, pastas and salads to choose from – and we particularly enjoyed the mussels last time we visited. This venue also offers individualised whisky and wine tastings.

Strait Street (2122 8347). Open 11.30am-late (times vary) TueSat; 1pm-late (times vary) Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC. V. Tico Tico Emanating a sense of Strait Street’s colourful past, this bar was the first of its kind to reopen in this part of Valletta – and it’s generated quite a following. ‘Food to share’ is the dining concept, with mezes and platters to nibble over a glass of wine or a cocktail, while there are heartier specials available too. Regular events are also organised here, with top DJs and musicians performing most weekends. Tico Tico has helped to lead the way towards a more cosmopolitan Valletta.

61 Strait Street (2122 0449). Open 11am-till late (times vary) MonSat; 4pm-late (times vary) Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Trabuxu Wine Bar This was one of the first wine bars to open in Valletta, and it has certainly maintained its popularity. The brainchild of Kris Fenech Soler, it is frequented by an artsy crowd and is especially busy after theatre performances or exhibition launches – in fact it can get quite busy, so it’s best to

Shopping With local boutiques, high-street brands and designer highlights, Valletta has plenty to offer shoppers.

Arcades and shopping complexes Embassy Complex Tucked away on a side street off Republic Street, this shopping mall is the most popular to grace the capital and is home to numerous international franchises and local outlets including iCentre, Chocostore, United Colors of Benetton, Bershka, Promod, Agenda Bookshop, Terranova, Tenda and more. Within the complex you’ll also find a bingo hall, which is complete with slot machines and open every day till 10pm, a games room and a cinema complex (including the screening of a documentary – ‘Valletta Living History’ see p48 – on Malta’s past). A new Costa Coffee outlet is also found on the ground floor of the mall.

St Lucia Street (2122 7436, www.embassycomplex.com.mt).

Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Fashion BHS This well-known British brand stocks ladies’, men’s, teenage and kids’ fashion, as well as items for the home including bedding, duvets and pillows. Split over four floors in what was once a Valletta townhouse, there’s a very good selection of staples as well as new-season items.

Republic Street (21241 633). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Strand, Sliema (2131 0811); Smart Supermarket, Birkirkara (2149 1655); Zabbar Road, Fgura (2180 2004).

Blue Shop The focus is on fantastic quality at this beautiful boutique. It is home to a lovely selection of Italian linen and cotton clothing, pretty swimwear, leather shoes and handbags, colourful scarves and accessories.

Lionel Galea

The Ordnance Pub Twenty-two years after it first opened, the Ordnance Pub has, once again, become one of the most popular pubs in Valletta. Pop by to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere indoors or out, the selection of beers and the delicious pub grubs (which include a mix of local favourites, as well as English options, such as fish and chips or a fry-up). Open till late, this is a good spot for an after-theatre tipple. A traditional roast is served every Sunday.

Ordnance Street (2123 0547).

Open 9.30am-1am daily.

Credit AmEx, MC, V.

book ahead if you want to secure a table within the bar itself or outside on the Strait Street steps.

As you would imagine, there’s an excellent selection of local and international wines on offer, accompanied by delicious eats including dips made lovingly inhouse and some of the best cheese and meat platters we’ve ever tasted.

Spot the collection of corkscrews adorning the walls, which is how this place got its name.

1 Strait Street (2122 3036, www. trabuxu.com.mt). Open 7pmlate (times vary) Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Valletta

Loop Bar One of a number of lively bars along Strait Street, Loop takes you on a journey back in time thanks to its eclectic and authentic 1960s décor. During the summer you can sit at a table on the street, soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying drinks and platters from the extensive menu.

68 Strait Street (9933 9931, www. loopmalta.com). Open noonlate (times vary) daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Blush & Panic

Italian owner Stefania is extremely pleasant and helpful, and is usually on-hand to offer advice.

37 Merchants Street (2720 9889).

Open 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Blush & Panic With an authentic vintage section and lots of lovely vintage-inspired brands, this is one of the island’s most popular shops for retro fashion and accessories. Affable owner Samantha recently extended the range to include vintage-inspired homeware and gifts, as well as jewellery, hats and fascinators.

47A Melita Street (2720 9889). Open May-Sept 10am-2pm, 3-5pm Mon, Thur; 10am-2pm, 4-7pm Tue, Fri; 10am-2pm Wed; 10am-4pm Sat; Oct-Apr 10am-2pm, 3-5pm Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri; 10am-2pm Wed, Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Brooks Brothers This iconic American brand is celebrating its 197th anniversary this year, as well as its second year in Malta. Locally shoppers have really fallen for the smart collection, which includes workwear, made-to-measure suits, bow ties, shoes and bags.

With a stunning selection for both women and men, Brooks Brothers is renowned for its collection of timeless favourites and seasonal must-haves.

243 Republic Street (2122 1644).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cost Borg This is one of the oldest menswear shops in the island, stocking everything from formalwear to tailored pieces, accessories and swimwear. Cheaper items, including t-shirts, shirts, jackets, belts and other items for men, are available in a small outlet right opposite. An alteration service is also offered.

250 Republic Street (2123 7363, www.costborg.com). Open 9am7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Francis Bajada Established in 1925 and now run by third-generation family members, this shop stocks stylish Italian fashionwear for men – mix-andmatch suit sizes, tailored suits, smart shirts, jackets, ties, scarves, cufflinks and hats. The prices may be on the high side, but the helpful staff, top quality and gorgeous collections easily make up for that. Ask for any assistance you might need, as not all items are easily visible. Alterations can be made to anything bought in-store.

192 Merchants Street (2123 7948).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 36 Tigné Seafront, Sliema (2132 3409).

Fred Perry With its internationally recognisable laurel wreath logo, Fred Perry offers a wide variety of colours and styles for men to update their look, at great prices.

Fred Perry womenswear is available next door, at Levi’s Store.

Merchants Street (2258 4441). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Anne’s Square, Sliema (2258 4432); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

Karen Millen Set within a beautifully restored Valletta building, this is one of the most stylish shops to open in the last year. English brand Karen Millen is known for beautifully crafted fashion, and each piece is individually designed using luxury fabrics. There are lots of lovely items to choose from, displayed over two floors. The staff here are attentive and helpful.

Old Theatre Street (9989 7642).

Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Kenjo & Kyoto Specialising in eveningwear for special occasions, these city boutiques (opposite each other) may retail relatively expensive

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items (you’re looking at a minimum of €200 for an outfit) but you’re bound to find something you’ll fall in love with. In fact, their 30-year legacy proved that they offer something shoppers love. The focus is on stylish, elegant attire for events and special occasions, and the shop windows give a good idea of what’s in fashion that season.

128 & 52 Old Theatre Street (2122 0724, 2125 0264). Open 9am1.30pm, 4-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Levi’s Store It is only fitting that Malta’s capital should house a Levi’s Store – the pioneer of the denim movement – and this is where all the styles and fits of the season are proudly displayed. Head upstairs for men’s and downstairs for women’s. Students get a 10 per cent discount, while a free alteration service is available for hems.

Merchants Street (2258 4444). Open 10am-2pm, 3-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Anne’s Square, Sliema (2258 4431); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

M&Co With everything from casual daywear to eveningwear on offer, there’s a great range for ladies and children here, as well as a special collection for teenagers.

Spread over two floors, the ladies fashion comes in standard, plus and petite sizing, so you’re sure to find something that suits.

195, 196 Merchants Street (2123 3221). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Marks & Spencer You would be hard pressed to leave M&S with your hands empty as this internationally recognised shop caters for him, her, the kids, beauty needs and the home. A flagship store for the brand, this outlet is cleverly designed in a fresh and stylish blend of metal

and wood over seven well laid-out floors. The brand has become brilliant at appealing across the board – they’ve managed to hit this season’s latest trends while still staying true to their best-known styles – including great-fitting t-shirts and comfortable lingerie in a range of sizes. The food at the cafeteria on the ground floor is of excellent quality and draws many at lunch time.

Palace Square, Old Theatre Street (2122 0614). Open 9am-7pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Strand, Sliema (2133 1745); The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (9975 1058); Level 0, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (3792 0401); Level 0, Daniels Shopping Complex, Hamrun (9989 7641).

Mexx Loved by fashionistas everywhere for its quality clothing with simple lines, Mexx may not come cheap but it definitely offers durability and effortless elegance. Spread over three floors, the store has items for women, while men are catered for at Mexx’s other outlets. Accessories, including jewellery, belts and bags are sold here and sales are held regularly.

248A Republic Street (2202 2150).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Level 1, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2202 1111); 67 Constitution Street, Mosta (2202 1121); The Pjazza, The Point, Sliema (2202 1101).

Tommy Hilfiger Arguably one of the most beautiful stores on the island, this American label is housed within stunning Palazzo Ferreria on the capital’s main street. This chic destination delivers a great shopping experience and stocks a range of clothing and accessories for him, her and the children. The staff are efficient and helpful, and free alterations are offered with

Joseph Busuttil. See p63.

60 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

every purchase. The Hilfiger Denim collection is displayed in the recently renovated basement, while one of the store highlights is the gorgeous garden located next to the kids’ section, where shoppers are invited to enjoy a coffee.

Ferreria Palace, 307 Republic Street (2123 3877). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Level 0, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2010 0712); The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 1163); Arkadia Commercial Centre, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3000).

Fashion accessories Aldo As one of the most popular shoe brands in Europe, Aldo is a fantastic blend of fashion footwear and everyday comfort.

Styles change with the season, but you’ll always find a great mix of high heels, party shoes, ballet flats and boots, as well as bags, accessories and shoe care products.

Zachary Street (9989 2331). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (9975 1057); Antoine de Paule Square, Paola (9989 2332); Arkadia Commercial Centre, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3319).

Bata For comfortable and well-priced footwear that’s kind to your feet, you can’t do much better than Bata. A fantastic range of accessories, including belts, bags, jackets and scarves, to complete any outfit is also available.

Old Theatre Street (2385 9330). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2385 9385); Psaila Street, Birkirkara (2385 9256); The Duke Shopping Mall, Republic Street, Rabat, Gozo (2385 9367).

Campo Marzio Great for gifts, travel accessories, photo albums, jewellery boxes and pens, this chic boutique has a wonderful selection. We love the leather range, which comes in a variety of bright colours, as well as the diaries, wallets and laptop covers for both business and leisure shoppers.

8 Republic Street (2122 1133). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Palazzo Falson, Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 2551).

Classic Jewellers Quality and timeless pieces that don’t (always!) break the bank are what Classic Jewellers specialise in. The custom-made jewellery items are some of the best on the island and you can even make an appointment to have a bespoke piece crafted by the in-house

designer. There’s also a gorgeous selection of pearls and diamonds, plus items in yellow and white gold.

292 Republic Street (2203 5105).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Diamonds International If it’s luxury timepieces and fine jewellery you’re after, you need look no further than this recently refurbished boutique.

Brands available here include Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Omega, Cartier, Zenith, IWC and Ulysse Nardin among others.

The focus here is on a unique and personalised experience, and there’s a repair and after-sales service for timepieces too.

291 Republic Street (2203 5202, www.diamondsinternational.com. mt). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Portomaso, St Julian’s (2203 5201); The Pjazza, The Point, Sliema (2203 5207); Hilton Malta, St Julian’s (2203 5205).

Edwards Lowell Co Ltd A mecca of luxury, the wonderful choice of prestigious brands at this city-centre store is hard to beat, and includes Rolex, Chopard, Raymond Weil, Breitling, Patek Philippe, Hublot, Parmigiani, Tudor, S.T. Dupont, Pomellato, A Lange & Söhne, Girard Perregaux, Shoeffel, as well as luxury mobile phones by Vertu. Ring the bell to discover what’s inside! Opposite this store, there’s a gorgeous accessories boutique run by the same family, with high-end handbags, sunglasses and scarves by brands including Chopard.

6, 7 Zachary Street (2124 4159, www.elcol.com). Open 9.30am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St George’s Road, Spinola Bay, St Julian’s (2138 4503).

J Piccinino Whether you want to pick everyday underwear, lingerie for your wedding night or a swimsuit to turn heads, this is the place to do it. J Piccinino is a household name in Malta, stocking brands that include Freya and Triumph.

25 Merchants Street (2724 2388, www.jpiccinino.com). Open 9am7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

King Shoe Shop Find friendly staff at this familyrun shoe store, which has become a permanent fixture on the Maltese footwear scene. This shop stocks renowned brands such as Tamaris, Ara, Pikolinos, Moshulu, Ecco and Lotus, with a good online shop too.

42 Ordnance Street (2122 4804, www. kingshoeshop.net). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Scholl There’s a fantastic selection of top-brand shoes for all seasons and for the whole family at Scholl, with a special focus on foot health.

In addition to the footwear range (which includes foot products

by Scholl), you’ll also find an in-store podiatrist available by appointment at the South Street branch – to keep your feet happy while you’re on holiday!

Merchants Street (2123 6914). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations South Street, Valletta (2122 7347); Level -2 The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 1148); Eucharistic Congress Street, Mosta (2141 9601); Hompesch Road, Fgura (2180 7483); Abela Pharmacy, Triq Agius de Soldanis, Rabat, Gozo (2155 6170).

Solaris For sunglasses that make a statement while protecting your eyes, look no further than Solaris. It stocks a wide range by brands like Ray Ban, Gucci, Prada, Emporio Armani, Chanel, Burberry, Dior, Bulgari, Fendi, Jimmy Choo, Swarovski, Celine, Miu Miu, Fossil and Michael Kors.

There’s also a special Solaris range that is priced lower than the designer alternatives (ranging from €29 to €59), and the shop guarantees that all models offer 100 per cent UV protection.

281 Republic Street (2123 2955, www.solaris-sunglass.com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 7 Tower Road, Sliema (2133 5815).

Sterling Jewellers Considered to be among the best names for jewellery in Malta, Sterling Jewellers stock both traditional pieces as well as contemporary designs and custommade pieces. While most of the high-end brands (including Gucci, Versace and Casato) are aimed at shoppers with deep pockets, there are also pieces to suit lower budgets.

The Maltese cross remains the most popular buy, and comes in a variety of materials – plain silver or gold, filigree, silver encrusted with stones and diamond-studded. The group behind this brand also has the Bulgari Store just opposite, with a glorious range of Bulgari items.

6 Republic Street (2124 5999).

Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Swarovski Well-priced for gifts, there’s a range of earrings, bracelets and necklaces, as well as some decorative items.

Kingsway Palace, Republic Street (2123 6356, www.okfashion.com.mt). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 69 Tower Road, Sliema (2133 7447); Level 1 Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2137 0570).

Food and drink C Camilleri & Sons Ltd With a vast choice of pick-and-mix favourites, home-made ice-cream in the summer, pre-packed boxes of chocolates, freshly made chocolate truffles and cakes baked daily (including cassata Siciliana, almond cakes and pastries, as well as local specialities such as honey rings and date cakes), you should definitely get ready to lose yourself in Camilleri’s sweet

world. This family affair has been going strong since 1843 and still retains all its Maltese charm.

49-51 Merchants Street (2124 1642, www.tal-helu.com). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Chocolate District Chocolate is the name of the game at this pretty shop that also stocks quality tea and coffee. There are some fantastic brands to choose from, including Michel Cluisel and Chocolate Café-Tasse. Plus, if you go over your luggage limit, this shop will ship worldwide.

13 Melita Street (2788 8668). Open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The Wembley Store Serving foodies for three generations, this store is always packed full of people, whether for a quick loaf of bread or something special. Here you’ll find everything spread over two floors, including essentials, freshly baked pies, pet food, speciality goods (pâtés to whole truffles), ricotta kannoli (filled while you watch) and very special boxes of chocolates and biscuits. Wine is also available in the cellar downstairs, including local and foreign brands.

305 Republic Street (2122 5147, www. thewembleystore.com). Open 7.30am7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gifts and homeware The Artisans Centre This well-stocked shop offers an unmatched range of souvenirs that includes silverware, trinkets and knick-knacks. Particularly popular are the Gozitan bizzilla (local lace) items, beautifully patterned and

woven by hand, as well as the handpainted ceramics, typical brass door knockers and local jewellery, all made by Maltese artisans.

288 Republic Street (2124 6216). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 3 St John’s Square, Valletta.

Joseph Busuttil Located in the heart of one of Valletta’s busiest streets, this shop has been selling traditional Maltese crafts and artisanal products for over 100 years. We love the great range of authentic Maltese lace, Gozitan glass, filigree and even silver items – all of which are of a very high quality.

222 Merchants Street (2124 3241).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mdina Glass One of the island’s most renowned ‘Made-in-Malta’ brands, Mdina Glass, offers a delightful selection of glassware in everything from traditional shapes and styles to really contemporary designs.

Prices may seem high, but you have to appreciate the work that has gone into them as each is individually crafted. Glass plates with Maltese patterns are particularly sought after, as are the glass panel clocks.

Mdina Glass guarantees factory prices at its own outlets. The new outlet in Pjazza Tigné, Sliema will be open from mid-August.

Merchants Street (2122 6488, www. mdinaglass.com.mt). Open 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Valletta Waterfront (2122 6236); Guzé Fava Street, Sliema (2010 6305); Islets Promenade, Bugibba (2157 6484); Crafts Village, Ta’ Qali (2141 5786); Sir Adrian Dingli Street, Rabat, Gozo (2010 2477); The Pjazza, The Point, Sliema (2010 6306).

Mediterranean Ceramics Local artisans produce really exquisite items here, to remind you of your time in Malta. Our favourite products include the volcanic table tops and pretty ceramic souvenirs, including mugs, glasses and magnets. It’s best to call ahead to ensure the shop is open.

42 Pinto Wharf, Valletta Waterfront (9920 1055, www. mediterraneanceramics.com). Open 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-2pm Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Ta’ Qali Crafts Village, Ta’ Qali (2010 5552).

Palazzo Prince D’Orange. See p64.

Trafalgar Giftware & Art Gallery Gifts and homeware items abound at this shop, and there’s a great mix of classic and modern designs, with prices to suit all budgets. We love the crystalware and original Venetian masks, as well as the lovely selection of Capodimonte and Limoges porcelain pieces.

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Other locations St Julian’s Road, San Gwann (2137 4833); Level 0, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2138 1569); Level 2, Tigrija Palazz, Rabat, Gozo (2156 9423).

Valletta

22 City Gate (2123 6467). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Maskli Street, Qawra (2158 5599).

Toys and games Early Learning Centre This store is extremely familyfriendly, as children are welcome to play with a selection of the educational toys, garden toys and costumes in-store. Ideal for boys and girls up to the age of nine, the focus is on items that stimulate development while still keeping the kids entertained.

193 Merchants Street (2123 6228, www.elctoysmalta.com). Open 9am-1pm, 4-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 6385); Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo (2156 0157).

HandKrafts Apart from a wide selection of toys, this store, which has been open for 65 years, retails die-cast models of cars and aircraft for enthusiasts, as well as plastic models of boats and aircraft.

HandKrafts delivers worldwide too.

83 South Street (2122 1160, www. handkrafts.net). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Arts and entertainment From gallery openings and theatre performances, to art house cinema and exhibitions, culture vultures won’t be disappointed by Valletta.

Art galleries

The Victor Pasmore Gallery The world’s first gallery dedicated solely to the works of Victor Pasmore has opened within the Central Bank of Malta.

B

orn in 1908, Victor Pasmore was an artist who was active in England until the mid-60s and then in Malta until his death in 1998. Now, a number of his works have been relocated to the Central Bank of Malta, where they will be on display at the Victor Pasmore Gallery – the first space dedicated entirely to his art.

The permanent exhibition features a number of artworks Pasmore created while in Malta between 1966 and 1998, as well as some earlier examples. Most of these belonged to the artist himself and were discovered in his homes in Gudja, Malta, and in London following his demise.

The gallery is a joint venture in conjunction with the Victor Pasmore Foundation, which was set up in 2012 to help conserve and promote the artist’s work. In fact, the gallery will be presenting a changing selection of Pasmore’s work to give culture vultures and art enthusiasts the opportunity to better understand this artist’s remarkable vision.

The Victor Pasmore Gallery can be found at the Central Bank of Malta, Castille Place, Valletta. Open 11am-3pm Tue, Thur, Fri.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www. sjcav.org). Open June-mid Sept 9.30am-1pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat, Sun; Oct-May 9am-5pm Mon, Tue; 9am-9pm Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Film

Blitz Blitz is the only independent contemporary art space in Malta, and it’s gained a reputation for its successful exhibitions and events. It’s best to check online for regular updates on what to expect, but it will usually be something quite avant-garde. The aim here is to support projects that are radical – especially in the run up to Valletta’s role as European Capital of Culture in 2018.

68 St Lucia Street (www. thisisblitz.com). Open check website. No credit cards.

Cinema at St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity If you’re feeling artsy and want to stray from the mainstream, head to this art-house spot where everything from live screenings of London’s National Theatre and New York’s Metropolitan Opera productions to indie classics are shown. Prices and times vary depending on what is being screened. The centre regularly holds film festivals but it’s best to check the website or Facebook for details.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www. sjcav.org). Screen 1. Tickets €5-€20.

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St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity Juxtaposing old with new, this beautiful building (which was constructed during the time of the Knights of St John) houses contemporary exhibitions, theatre performances and art-house movies.

This centre for creativity also has an ongoing arts calendar, so you’ll usually find something on; check out the website for an updated list of current and upcoming events.

Embassy Cinema Showing all the newest releases, the Embassy Cinema is the ideal place to kick back and relax with popcorn in hand. Films are screened throughout the day and well into the evening. The complex is also home to a 3D cinema (glasses for 3D films sell for €1 or you can bring your own), as well as a multi-lingual wellproduced film about the capital’s journey through history (see p48).

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St Lucia Street (2122 2225, www. embassycomplex.com.mt). Screens 6.

Tickets €5.50-€8; €3.50-€5 children.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Theatre Manoel Theatre One of Malta’s busiest cultural venues with a calendar to match, this is one of the best places to catch performances related to classical music, opera, musicals, drama (mostly in English) and comedy. The theatre season runs from the end of September to May. Old Theatre Street (2124 6389, www.teatrumanoel.com.mt). Box office 10am-1pm, 5-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat. Tickets €5-€50.

Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Theatre at St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity Modern in appearance, this theatre provides a fitting backdrop to the contemporary style performances that can be seen here regularly.

And, despite its small size, this dinky theatre has played host to some of the island’s best shows to date. Expect an up-close experience by local and foreign theatre groups.

Tickets may be bought online.

Castille Place (2122 3200, www.sjcav. org). Box office Open June-mid Sept 9.30am-1pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat, Sun; Oct-May 9am-5pm Mon, Tue; 9am-9pm Wed-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. Tickets €15 (may vary).

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Where to stay Staying in the capital puts you right in the heart of the island, with easy public transport access everywhere. There’s something for everyone too – luxurious, elegant, cheap and cheerful options are all found here.

Expensive Casa Ellul See p28.

Grand Hotel Excelsior This large, striking hotel sits just outside the capital walls and has a stellar reputation as one of the best five-star accommodation options on the island. The gorgeous sea views are a definite plus, as is the renowned spa and beauty centre, with its fantastic selection of treatments. The rooms all have complimentary Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and free ironing on request. The hotel is just a stone’s throw away from the Valletta Waterfront and boasts its own 30-berth marina, private beach, large pool and restaurants offering diverse cuisines.

Great Siege Road, Floriana (2125 0520, www.excelsior.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €175 single; €260 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Phoenicia Elegance and old-world charm reign at this legendary hotel, which is literally a five-minute walk away from the centre of Valletta. You’ll be well taken care of in this splendid hotel with its comfortable, luxurious rooms and its vast lobby (where we love to sit back, relax and enjoy the hotel’s exquisite afternoon tea selection). Among the hotel’s greatest assets are its seven-anda-half acres of mature, landscaped garden, skirted by the ancient bastions of Malta’s capital. We also love the in-house restaurant, Pegasus (see p55), where chef Saul Halevi has crafted an intricate menu that combines classic Mediterranean cuisine with plenty of creativity. Hotel Phoenicia will be closing in mid-November for a €15 million refurbishment programme, and will reopen at the start of April 2016.

The Mall, Floriana (2122 5241, www.phoeniciamalta.com). Rates €150-€470 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Palazzo Prince D’Orange It’s hard to beat the unique personality of this 17th-century baroque palazzo, which has been divided into a number of luxury suites with beautifully restored, traditional features. Located just a minute’s walk from grand Auberge de Castille (see p47), this is a really great base. If you want the best

Valletta

apartment, book the Wilhelmina Duplex, with its kitchen/dining room, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and spacious sea view terrace. On the lower level there’s now a gym and sauna, while massages and beauty treatments can be booked in the dedicated spa. Upstairs, breakfast is served in a beautiful room overlooking the back terrace, while the new rooftop terrace provides stunning views out to sea. Do bear in mind that the owners often impose a minimum three-night stay, although it’s worth enquiring all the same.

St Paul Street (9984 6615, www. palazzoprincemalta.com). Rates €130-€400 single/double.

Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Trabuxu Boutique Living See p29.

Moderate Hotel Castille This is a great-value option if you want to be really centrally located.

Housed within a 16th-century grand residence, Castille Hotel has captured the charm and luxury of aristocratic medieval life and transported it to the present day with great results.

The 38 rooms are well-equipped with period furnishings and wall-to-wall carpets, as well as air-con, bathroom, TV and

Hotel Castille

telephone. Try to secure the room with the Maltese balcony if you can! There’s also a good rooftop restaurant to dine at, and a wine bar and pizzeria in the cellar just around the corner.

Castille Square (2124 3677, www. hotelcastillemalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €60 single; €115 double.

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Osborne Hotel Sunny and airy, this three-star hotel has definitely earned its stripes. Situated just off the main thoroughfare of the city and a few metres from the National Museum of Fine Arts (see p44), its rooms have been recently renovated in a stylish manner, with flat-screen TVs, large double

beds and air-con. English and continental breakfasts are served buffet-style. The property also has a rooftop swimming pool, conference room and sun terrace.

Wi-Fi is available at a charge.

South Street (2124 3656, www. osbornehotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €120 single; €130 double. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

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Spinola Bay

St Julian’s Overview and sightseeing 70 Where to eat 70 Where to drink 82 Shopping 82 Nightlife 85 Arts and entertainment 85 Where to stay 86

St Julian’s

St Julian’s

BAY BREAK

Spinola Bay is one of the most picturesque bays in this area and makes for an idyllic break from this town’s busy tempo. Grab an ice-cream, walk to one of the benches lining the shore and watch the world go by in sheer tranquillity.

The islands’ entertainment hub Get your fun and partying fix from this sleepless town.

I

n the not-so-distant past St Julian’s was a thriving fishing village, which is easy to picture if you take a stroll past Spinola Bay and take in the colourful fishing boats and old boathouses lining the shore. Today, it is the hotspot for nightlife, entertainment and eating out, and has some elite residential areas too. Moreover, it is still within walking distance of Paceville and Sliema.

The area known as Portomaso, featuring a picturesque marina, is one of the island’s most upmarket spots. There are plenty of wining and dining options, as well as designer shopping outlets nearby, and it is the perfect place to start off your night before heading to Paceville, the island’s nightlife capital. Here pubs, bars and clubs remain open until the early hours, but you could sidestep the hustle and bustle entirely and head to St George’s Bay, which enjoys Blue Flag status, for a quiet romantic stroll or to simply enjoy the view. Alternatively, keep walking towards pretty Spinola Bay which is lined with excellent eateries that promise everything from local specialities to international delicacies.

Further on along the promenade, in the direction of Sliema, Balluta Bay

will come into view – another attractive spot with good restaurants and areas to sit around and enjoy the vistas.

Three villas – one of which has been transformed into a restaurant – with beautiful façades stand majestically facing the bay. Opposite, equally elegant yet humble, are a number of recessed terraced houses, and between them stands the neo-gothic Carmelite Church with long spindly bell towers, more imposing from the outside than from within. If you want to take a look at the interior of one of the townhouses, which was also one of the first to be built, you could book dinner at the exclusive Barracuda Restaurant, a popular eatery especially renowned for fish.

The obvious architectural highlight of the area is Balluta Buildings near the Carmelite Church. It is a monumental apartment block and the legacy of a brief flirtation with art nouveau by some Maltese architects – its sculpted façade, with repetitive angel motifs, displays elegant flying buttresses. The beach below may have been washed away, but you can take in the atmosphere by sitting on a bench in Balluta Square and watching the world go by.

The hotspot for nightlife, entertainment and eating out

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Where to eat You’re spoilt for choice in this buzzing neighbourhood, with numerous cuisine options to tantalise your taste buds throughout the day and night.

American Badass Burgers If you’re a burger lover, then the name alone should get your attention. But there’s more to Badass – the foodie experience at this eatery shouldn’t be missed.

The all-Maltese brand has developed an original menu based on delicious gourmet burgers, and is largely considered as one of the best burger houses on the island. Choose between classic, flame-grilled Angus burgers with a variety of toppings or the locally inspired varieties such as those made from rabbit or Maltese sausage. If you’re really hungry, start with the spare ribs or meaty dippers before digging into the real deal. Vegetarian and gluten-free options are available.

Hard Rock Café If you’re in the vicinity of Bay Street Shopping Complex (see p82), pop in to Hard Rock Café for a tasty bite in a buzzing location replete with memorabilia of famous international artists. It’s especially renowned for its burgers – particularly the aptly named local legendary burger topped with smoked bacon and cheddar cheese – but there are also some delicious starters, including a range of fajitas and the scrumptious version of mac ‘n cheese. If it’s a relaxed drink you’re after, take a seat at the bar and enjoy whatever live gig is on that day (best to check out the schedule beforehand) or take advantage of the two-forone happy hour from Monday to Friday between 6 and 7pm.

Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay (2372 2257, www. hardrock.com/malta). Open noonmidnight daily. Main courses €15.

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Shoreditch When it comes to breakfast and burgers, this spot in the heart of the nightlife district, which exudes a London vibe with its exposed ceiling and industrial-style design, is a place to visit. Shoreditch strikes gold with an incredible selection of breakfast options, among them mouth-watering eggs Benedict and French toast, as well as with lunch and dinner options ranging from salads and pasta to risottos and English-style dishes, the likes of fish and chips. A Shoreditch burger, however, should be one of your top choices – we recommend the BBQ posh combo layered with crispy Parma ham, smoked applewood cheddar and home-made barbecue sauce. Look out for the

specials blackboard too which changes each week and will have you in a pickle over what to choose.

43 Wilga Street, Paceville (2138 6748). Open 8.30am-10pm Wed-Mon; 8.30am-4pm Tue. Main courses €6-€8.

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Portomaso (2135 9559, www. zerisrestaurant.com). Open 7-11pm daily; also noon-2pm daily Oct-Apr. Main courses €18-€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Shakinah Centrally located along the St Julian’s seafront, within walking distance from Balluta Bay, Shakinah offers authentic Indian cuisine in a wonderful setting. The mood, décor and general ambience here have been given their fair share of attention, resulting in a contemporary yet elegant living room feel. Some of our preferred dishes here are the palak soup, onion bhaji and stuffed mushrooms to start with, followed by the tandoori king prawns and the lamb rogan josh with pulua rice and garlic naan. All meat is halal, and vegetarians are well catered for too.

5 Gorg Borg Olivier Street (7731 8000, www.shakinahmalta.com). Open 6.30-11.30pm daily; also 12.30-3.30pm Sat, Sun Oct-May. Main courses €15.

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Fusion Zeri’s Talented Mark Zerafa – also known as Zeri and the mind behind this outstanding eatery – expertly combines attentive service with innovative culinary ideas. Apart from scenic views of Portomaso Marina, diners should expect a feast for all the senses – we recommend the black fettuccine with calamari to start with, followed by veal on the bone. If you’re keen on fish, ask for the fresh catch of the day, and look out for the local red snapper or tuna. Finish off on a high note with one of the home-made desserts and we promise you’re in for a memorable meal. Free parking facilities are available within the Portomaso car park.

Parallel Architects/Peter Mercieca

Just Burger This hip burger joint with cool concrete accents and bright green chairs certainly lives up to its name and pleases its visitors with some of the best burgers in town. The patties are hand-made in-house everyday using the freshest of products, and the burger-specific menu offers a number of vegetarian and vegan options too, including salmon, halloumi and chickpea varieties. At Just Burger, they even make their own dipping sauce.

Add an optional side of fries to your meal, and wash it all down with a delightful milkshake – the oreo one is the one we like most.

You’ll be going back for more.

12 Ball Street, Paceville (2704 1511, www. justburger.co). Open 11am10pm Mon-Thur; 11am-midnight Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses €10. Credit MC, V.

Indian

Shoreditch

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St Julian’s

Zest This stylish restaurant promises that little something special, thanks to its offering of alternative cuisines that are not easy to come across locally – there’s a mix of Thai, Indonesian, Japanese, Singaporean and continental – and thanks to its sleek décor and remarkably courteous staff.

Savour a starter of Eastern flavours, such as the new style sashimi – thin slices of raw salmon and tuna marinated in a Japanese ponzu dressing drizzled with hot olive and sesame oil. We suggest the popular beef teppanyaki for mains, a Japanese-style grill served with traditional dipping sauce and fried rice, and definitely leave room for dessert. Seal the deal with the citrus trio of crème brûlée in mandarin and fresh chilli, cinnamon and orange, and lime and cardamom flavours.

25 St George’s Road, Spinola Bay (2138 7600, www.zestflavours.com).

Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

1 St George’s Road, Spinola Bay (2138 4066, www.badassburgers. eu). Open 6-11.30pm Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri-Sun. Main courses €11. Credit MC, V.

St Julian’s

Shiva’s Since opening its doors in 2007, Shiva’s has established itself as one of Malta’s finest for Indian cuisine, and it has the awards to prove it.

Head-chef Sudip has gathered a team of all-Indian cooks and created a menu that goes right to the soul of Indian kitchen traditions, with a generous choice for vegetarians too – we particularly like the vegetable samosas accompanied by a tangy sauce and the mixed vegetable platter including a variety of pakodas, samosas and onion bhaji.

If it’s heat you’re after, the gosht vindaloo – boneless pieces of lamb in a really hot curry sauce – will do the trick, although there are plenty of mild options to choose from too.

And if you’d rather opt for an Indian night in, make use of the take-away menu and free delivery service.

Dragonara Road, Paceville (2138 4399, www.shivasindiancuisine.com). Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €9-€18.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Maltese Gululu Kcina Maltija u Ftajjarija Set right on the seafront in pretty Spinola Bay, Gululu is synonymous with tasty Maltese dishes and one of the best for local fare in the area.

Whether you’re after a light lunch, late afternoon snack like a plate of hobz biz-zejt (Maltese bread topped with tomato paste and a variety of ingredients) with a glass of wine or a full dinner, at Gululu you’ll be duly served. Apart from the typical dishes, we recommend one of the ftira options, a more rustic take on the Italian pizza and baked in a traditional Maltese baker’s oven

built using local stone. A favourite way to start a meal in this casual eatery is to order a sumptuous mizé (a variety of appetisers) to share.

Access is from the waterfront or from Spinola Road above.

133 Spinola Bay (2133 3431, www. gululu.com.mt). Open July-mid Sept 6-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat, Sun; mid Sept-June noon11pm daily. Main courses €8-€19.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Maltese Mama This friendly, family-run restaurant is as authentic as its name implies. If you’re up for something truly traditional, try the excellent rabbit, cooked either in a stew or fried in typical Maltese fashion, or bragjoli (beef olives).

Alternatively, you could opt for fresh fish depending on what’s available. Keep an eye out for the specials board which is likely to serve up a few alternative local dishes, and we recommend you taste chef Elton’s delightful ricotta cakes before leaving. Al fresco dining is also an option here.

Paceville Avenue (2737 7024, www. maltesemama.com). Open May-Sept 6.30-11pm daily; Oct-Apr 6.3010.30pm daily. Main courses €20.

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C R I T I C S ’ C HO I C E

The best burgers around

Burger joints have been sprouting at an unprecedented rate recently – some with predominantly classic choices, others with gourmet flavours. Here’s a pick of the top burger places around and the best of what they offer.

Badass Burgers You’re going to have a hard time choosing here, but we’re going to suggest The Daddy burger – a beef patty with lettuce, onion, tomato, cheddar cheese, bacon, jalapenos, barbecue sauce and onion rings – excellent! See p76.

Chocafé Far beyond the town of St Julian’s, this eatery is gaining a reputation for a range of delicious homemade burgers, including the cheese and bacon, the salmon burger and even the blueberry burger varieties. See p99.

Mediterranean The Avenue This hotspot in the very heart of Paceville, known for hearty food and large portions, is a firm favourite and one of the busiest restaurants for a casual meal.

The menu at The Avenue is huge, encompassing just about

Hard Rock Café Indulge in the finger-licking mushroom and Swiss burger – a beef patty smothered with sautéed mushrooms and Swiss cheese, as well as lettuce, tomato and onion. Unforgettable! See p73.

Just Burger The burgers here are classic and simple, with many options for vegetarians and vegans too, such as the chickpea burger, halloumi burger and pumpkin varieties. Simple, tasty and invariably good. See p73.

New York Best You can choose from several super tempting daily specials, but if you’d like a sought-after regular we recommend the New Orleans with Jack Daniel’s, bacon, jam and Gouda cheese, or the Mexican burger with jalapenos and cream cheese. See p105.

Chapter One. See p77.

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Shoreditch Big eaters will have a field day here as the portions are generous and every burger is juicy – tuck into the East London burger with cheese, bacon, a fried egg and crispy onions, and you won’t be disappointed. See p73.

Barracuda Restaurant Enjoying magnificent views of Balluta and Spinola Bays, this top-notch eatery is housed in an 18th-century seaside villa replete with character, and converted in style. Enjoy dining al fresco in one of its beautiful balconies overlooking the Med during the summer months or in the cosy interior by the log fire in winter.

The menu features a selection of meat, fish and shellfish options.

The daily catch is on display and may be grilled, steamed or baked al cartoccio, while the seafood platter consists of a selection of the freshest line-caught fish and shellfish including mussels, clams, langoustines and local prawns.

Expect a memorable evening of fine dining in an exquisite location.

194, 5, Main Street (2133 1817, www.barracudarestaurant.com).

Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €22. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Bianco’s Located along the main road leading to Paceville, this Mediterranean grill and lounge is popular for all sorts of occasions be it a casual dinner, romantic evening or business lunch. You may also choose to extend your evening from the dinner table to the laidback sofa lounge for a bottle of wine from the extensive list or a cool cocktail prepared by the inhouse mixologists. The new menu includes a selection of starters for one or to share, pasta and risotto dishes, pizzas – we suggest the original pistachio variety – warm and cold salads, main courses and platters to share. Bianco’s is also gaining a reputation for excellent home-made Angus beef burgers.

St George’s Road (2135 9865, www. biancos.info). Open June-Sept noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 6.30-11pm daily; Oct-May noon-3pm, 6-11pm daily. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Caviar & Bull Headed by one of Malta’s most distinguished chefs, Marvin Gauci

St Julian’s

everything you can imagine.

Choose from a selection of pizza or pasta dishes – we recommend the ‘gondola’, a closed pizza with honey and blue cheese, as well as the spaghetti buongustaia, with meat, mushrooms and cream. The signature dish, however, continues to be the beef wellington – a real treat – accompanied by crispy vegetables and chunky chips.

For lighter eaters, there’s a range of salads and starter dishes, as well as a number of grills. Free parking at the Portomaso car park for two hours, and free delivery in the vicinity are offered.

Gort Street, Paceville (2135 1753, www. theavenuemalta.com). Open noon2.30pm Mon-Sat; also Sun Oct-May; 6-11.30pm daily. Main courses €10€18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Zest. See p73.

(of Tarragon and Buddhamann fame see p141 and p81), Caviar & Bull delivers a unique experience locally. Its refined and diverse menu offers an original fusion of high quality and experimental dining with a nod towards molecular gastronomy, particularly notable in the signature dishes of Wagyu beef, hand-carved house-smoked fresh salmon with parmesan foam, aromatic herbs, honey caviar, truffle and black seeds, and the steamed local mini prawns. For a lighter, yet equally extravagant evening, there’s the option of enjoying fresh oysters and champagne at the Caviar Bar, of kicking back in the whisky bar and cigar corner, or of sipping a cocktail with a molecular twist in the lounge – luxury and indulgence on tap!

Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort, St George’s Bay (2759 3301, www.caviarandbull.com).

Open 6.30-11pm daily; also noon3.30pm Sun. Main courses €28.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Chapter One The informal atmosphere of this charming eatery sets it apart – together with its delightful menu.

Chef proprietor Hiram Cassar has blended popular plates with great-tasting flavours to create favourites such as risotto with fresh black truffles and braised shank of lamb with ratatouille and rosemary jus. Finish your meal with a luscious dessert, the likes of home-made ice-cream or caramelised lemon tart. In case of any food allergies or dietary requirements, let Hiram know and he will happily concoct something appropriate. A small outdoor terrace is available for smokers and for outdoor dining.

9 Church Street, Paceville (2138 0000, www.chapteronemalta.com).

Open 7-10.30pm daily. Main courses €22. Credit DC, JCB, MC, V. Electro Lobster Project Of course the star at this hip spot nestled within the historic Balluta buildings is the lobster.

You can indulge in one of the speciality lobster dishes or choose from the classic Sicilian menu which also features vegetarian and vegan options. Popular bands host regular live gigs here, with jazz music reserved for Sunday afternoons, while a resident DJ spins party music every weekend and keeps the vibe going until late. Bartenders frequently whip up their own cocktail creations so expect a varied and interesting menu. There’s a daily happy hour (or three) from 5 to 8pm, offering the chance to savour different cocktails at bootleg prices. You would do well to check out the website as whether it’s ladies night, comedy night or ‘cinemoon’ outdoor movie night in the nearby square, there’s always something going on at Electro Lobster Project.

Main Street, Balluta (2735 7357, www.electrolobsterproject.com). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. I Monelli The talented chefs at I Monelli deliver an authentic Sicilian culinary experience. A range of tempting antipasti on display, such as the delicious parmiggiana and freshly made vegetable-based dishes, are bound to set your stomach grumbling. The pièce de resistance of the menu, however, is the Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven. The various toppings are all of Sicilian origin,

such as the buffalo mozzarella, San Daniele Parma ham, ricotta salata and scamorza cheese. We are particularly fond of the pizza Siciliana, with tomato, mozzarella, aubergine, basil and ricotta salata.

Be sure to save space for an irresistible plate of scugnizzi for dessert, consisting of deep-fried pizza balls covered in warm nutella or pistachio cream – divine.

63A Wilga Street (2136 0036, imonelli.mt@gmail.com). Open 12.15-2.45pm, 7.15-11.45pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €13-€19.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. LuLu Tucked away in a quiet side road behind Spinola Palace, Lulu’s restaurant, hosted by affable owners Nicky and Caroline Pillow, is a perfect spot for great food and excellent service, in a chic and tranquil environment. Our memorable meal here kicked off with a broccoli and spinach soup amuse bouche, followed by a delectable goats’ cheese parcel in an almond crust and orange sauce, which was equal parts crunchy and soft. The fish here is cooked to perfection – we loved the milky, local sea bream fillets roasted with olive oil, lemon and herbs, although we also strongly recommend the fresh red snapper when available.

Make sure to leave room for Lulu’s celebrated desserts, with top marks going to the indulgent triple chocolate mousse cake consisting of milk and white chocolate mousse layered on a dark chocolate cake base, while the delicious strawberry and hazelnut meringue is a close runner-up. Book ahead.

31 Church Street (2137 7211, www. lulurestaurant.com). Open 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €21.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Piccolo Padre This family-run restaurant is especially sought after for its delicious pizzas, but in fact offers more than that. It is set in a typical 18th-century villa, literally metres away from the water’s edge and overlooking Balluta Bay. You would do well to book ahead to secure a table outdoors and enjoy the sea breeze while tucking into yummy food, such as tagliatelle with smoked swordfish, leeks, fresh salmon and a touch of cream, and baked fresh salmon with a sun-dried tomato crust. The pizza, made in a traditional wood-burning oven, though, is a must – those who tolerate the heat should try the spicy diavola, with Maltese sausage, peppered Gozo cheese and harissa.

195 Main Street (2134 4875, www. piccolopadre.com). Open 6.3011.30pm daily; also noon-3pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €7.50-€15.

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Profumo di This unassuming indoors-only eatery brings a slice of Italy to Malta. It is a family-run spot headed by chef Corrado Casagrande, whose culinary skills deliver dish after dish of genuine food that is typical of Genoa in the north of Italy. Chef Corrado will most likely recommend the mix of seafood to start with – a tasty concoction of marinated octopus, calamari and whichever seafood is fresh that day, followed by a pasta dish – try the one with home-made fresh pesto if it’s on the menu. His tiramisu for dessert is not one to miss.

64 Ball Street, Paceville (2138 1239, www.profumodi.com). Open 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; also 12.302pm Sun Nov-Apr by reservation only. Main courses €16-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Quadro This award-winning, seafront restaurant within The Westin Dragonara Resort (see p89), is particularly renowned for its fresh fish and seafood dishes, although meat-lovers will not be disappointed. Free parking is available and an outdoor terrace is open during the summer months.

The Westin Dragonara Resort, Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www. quadrorestaurantmalta.com). Open 7-10pm daily. Main courses €23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sciacca Inspired by the Sicilian village that bears the same name, this fish bistro is certainly one to take note of if you’re after something authentic.

The atmosphere is smart and friendly, the décor contemporary and the food refined and distinctively memorable. To savour

the very best, we recommend one of the set menus starting from €35 per person (the most expensive one is €45 per person), all of which include a several-course feast of fish and seafood prepared in various ways, including tartare, carpaccio, mixed with pasta and grilled.

Non-fish lovers will also find something delicious to tuck into.

St Augustine Street (2133 1310, www. sciaccamalta.com). Open June-Sept 6.30-11pm daily; Oct-May 11.30ammidnight daily. Main courses €19-€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Sciacca Grill Steakhouse & Whisky Bar, South Street, Valletta (2123 7222).

Truffle & Truffles An evening at this restaurant is one for the books. Kick things off with a Pimm’s Cup cocktail or a refreshing pineapple and basil martini, prepared by experienced mixologist and impeccable host Austin Xerri. Next, make your choice of food – we were impressed by the crunchy squid and seared Scottish scallops, set on a beetroot and caper sauce, and the wild mushroom millefeuille to start with, both cooked to perfection. For mains, don’t miss the scrumptious fresh egg tortellacci cooked in a light saffron, black truffle and cream sauce, while the freshly prepared chocolate fondant (accompanied by moscato wine) was a perfect ending to a perfect meal. The best part is that, while the truffles imported from Piemonte are at the heart of almost every dish, they are used cleverly and are never overpowering, whether infused in butter or blended in a sauce.

4 Dragonara Road (2713 3254, www.truffleandtruffles.com). Open 6-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sean Mallia

St Julian’s

Meat & Co Overlooking stunning Spinola Bay, this eatery serves excellent cuts of meat. Self-described as Malta’s first ‘meat boutique’, the focus of this central restaurant is on quality – be it beef, lamb, poultry, pork or even fish steaks. If you’re a meat lover, try the selection of dry-aged meats, including the lovely, full-flavoured and marbled tender beef, the Fiorentina steak or the cowboy-cut rib steak on the bone. There’s also a selection of gourmet salads and tasty pasta dishes to choose from.

We suggest you ask for a table on the terrace during summer to enjoy the bay view over a great meal.

8 St George’s Road (2138 5000, www. meatandco.com.mt). Open noon-3pm daily; 6.45-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.45-11.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €15-€30.

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U Bistrot This roadside eatery with outdoor tables is open all day and has a varied and delicious menu that also caters for those watching their waistlines (a section of the menu is designed by a leading nutritionist). Pop over to U Bistrot for breakfast, served until midday – we recommend the popular eggs Benedict or American-style pancakes with maple syrup or fruit jam, or lunch, served from 12.15pm onwards. Among the healthier options are the rosemary chicken salad and the honey-glazed salmon salad, both excellent and among the best salads around.

Diners will find other scrumptious items on the menu, such as the home-made burgers, ravioli and grilled rib-eye. Try one of the home-made desserts too, which you can enjoy while watching the sun set over Balluta Bay. Balluta Bay (2311 2361, www.ubistrot. com). Open 10am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9am11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €10-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Villa Brasserie Overlooking picturesque Balluta Bay, this restaurant has secured its place among some of the top restaurants in the area and is housed within a beautiful 19thcentury villa. Guests can enjoy a delightful meal on the spacious terrace outdoors or in the villa’s sleek interior. The restaurant’s à la carte menu is a contemporary take on Mediterranean cuisine with hints of classic French cuisine – among the most popular seasonal dishes are the octopus carpaccio with a lime, chilli and coriander dressing, and fillets of red snapper with a tarragon sauce.

Guests can opt to dine in private for an intimate dinner (with prior notice), drop in for a classic cocktail or choose a bottle of wine from the extensive list of 150 varieties.

39 Main Street (2311 2273, www. thevillamalta.com). Open 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses €20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Waterbiscuit Open every day for healthy breakfast, lunch and dinner, Waterbiscuit offers a gastronomic experience in a beautifully designed, contemporary space.

The creative, ever-evolving menu makes use of fresh Mediterranean ingredients, while the cocktails to accompany your meal are inventive.

St George’s Bay (2376 2225, www.waterbiscuit.com.mt).

Open 8am-midnight daily. Main courses €21.50-€29.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Buddhamann. See p81.

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Wigi’s This family-run restaurant has been pleasing diners since 2005 and the team behind it goes to great lengths to offer them the very best. The menu changes daily

Sean Mallia

Oriental Blue Elephant The award-winning Blue Elephant restaurant within Hilton Malta (see p86) offers ambience and hospitality that come close to an authentic Thai experience, and remains one of the most renowned restaurants on the island. It is beautifully decorated with huts, waterfalls and lush greenery, reminiscent of a Thai landscape.

Sip a refreshing Mai Tai while enjoying the glorious marina views, before sampling authentic Thai dishes such as dim sum and sweet and sour emerald chicken. Dietary requirements are well catered for.

Hilton Malta, Portomaso (2138 3383). Open 7-10.30pm daily.

Main courses €13-€20. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Buddhamann This eatery raises the bar in the field of ethnic and Asian-influenced cuisine. Another dining concept spearheaded by talented chef Marvin Gauci, Buddhamann offers a range of dishes including a wide variety of starters and sashimi, an extensive choice of sushi options

namely nigiri, temaki and hosomaki (sushi plates start from €6), as well as sushi platters. A designated lounge area is open all day, serving up innovative cocktails and nibbles.

Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort, St George’s Bay (2728 3342, www.buddhamann.com).

Open noon-3pm, 6.30pm-midnight daily. Main courses €18-€28.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gochi This was the first sushi bar of its kind in Malta and has retained its popularity, especially among those seeking a light, take-away snack on a hot summer evening. The sushi

Martin Pettersson

to introduce new dishes and to adjust to what the market has to offer. Every dish is full of flavour, clearly making use of great-quality ingredients – be they fresh local gbejniet (cheeselets), herbs from Gozo, mussels from Scotland, meat from Harmony Farm in Ireland or USDA beef rib-eye.

The home-made desserts and Italian sorbets are also excellent.

Main Street (2137 7504). Open 12.30-2.45pm Tue-Fri; 7-10.45pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €15-€23.

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Hugo’s Lounge Hugo’s Lounge is just one of a successful string of restaurants, bars and nightclubs that make up the ‘Hugo’s’ brand, all of which are located within Malta’s entertainment district of Paceville.

Hugo’s Lounge, however, was the first one to be introduced, and keeps drawing crowds. The menu is mostly Asian-fusion, with plenty of fried starters, Eastern soups and curries, and sushi options prepared

by Japanese chefs. The kitchen closes late, long after the restaurant turns into a hip clubbing venue.

On Wednesdays, enjoy two-for-one on all cocktails until midnight, with the same offer every other day of the week until 6pm. Check out also Hugo’s Terrace (www. hugosterrace.com), the brand’s flagship outlet, located opposite St George’s Bay, complete with plush VIP seating, as well as Hugo’s Pub which is especially sought after by sports enthusiasts (2137 5956).

St George’s Road, Paceville (2138 2264, www.hugosloungemalta.com). Open noon-4am daily. Main courses €6.50€16.50. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sako Sushi This popular sushi restaurant is well-established among an increasing list of sushi places in this area. One aspect that singles it out, however, is the sushi train that runs through it, allowing diners to view a variety of sushi dishes in four colour-coded plates, each colour denoting a different price.

Simply pick out the plates that appeal to you off the train, keep them and hand them to your host when you’re done for your bill to be drawn accordingly. Sako’s menu includes a variety of maki, insideout rolls, sashimi, nigiri, temaki and a selection of salads. You could also opt to sit in Wagamama at the farthest end of the same restaurant for a choice of noodle and rice dishes. Requests for takeaway and delivery are accepted.

St George’s Road, Spinola Bay (2138 2000, www.sakosushi.com). Open noon11pm daily. €1.85-€4.85 per portion.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Zen Japanese Sushi Bar & Teppanyaki There’s a real authentic feel to this top-quality Japanese restaurant that is a celebration of time-honoured traditions, fresh ingredients and charming hospitality. Zen was the first Japanese restaurant in Malta and it is still widely regarded as one of the best. The cuisine here goes beyond the typical sushi dishes one associates with Japanese food; instead, it represents a more homely style of cooking still relatively unknown in the West, using high-quality ingredients and giving tradition a gourmet twist.

To complete the experience, wash down your meal with Japanese sake and whisky. Free parking is available at Portomaso Car Park.

The Villa Brasserie. See p78.

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St Julian’s

Caviar & Bull. See p77.

is a mix of authentic and ‘modern’, with rolls including tuna-mayo and spicy chicken, salmon avocado and tempura prawn, as well as a different special each day. Gochi also provides a self-service concept, whereby diners can order at the front desk, take their food and find a place to sit on the floor at the low tables at the back, in true Japanese style. Alternatively, grab and go – for great value, we recommend the €30 Zen platter, which includes a delicious mix of all the popular bits.

148 St George’s Road (2138 2411).

Open noon-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €2-€10. No credit cards.

Portomaso Yacht Marina (2138 6500, www.themarinarestaurants.com).

Open 7-11pm daily. Main courses €20-€30. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink

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Simply walk through the streets and pick your favourite spot for your choice of drink – from a pint or spirit to a cocktail or bottle of bubbly.

The Bedouin Bar Unwind right by the water’s edge at the exclusive Bedouin Bar which forms part of the The Westin Dragonara Resort (see p89). Decked out in crisp, white furniture and with impressive views of St Julian’s all lit up at night, this summer-only chill-out lounge bar, frequented by locals and foreigners, never fails to impress. Friday nights here have become one of the staples of the summer season, with a cocktail bar, VIP area and live DJ spinning a list of soundtracks of largely house and lounge genres. This spot exudes a sense of laid-back luxury and is the place to be on a Friday night.

The Westin Dragonara Resort, Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www. bedouinbarmalta.com). Open June-Aug 10.30pm-2am Fri. Credit AmEx, MC, V. The Dubliner Irish Pub & Restaurant This warm, welcoming and boisterous pub, owned by an Englishman and an Irishman, has made a name for itself and is very popular with locals and expats eager to drink and chow down some food while watching the big game. It provides hearty pub food and a traditional roast

carvery is organised every Sunday during winter, from November to March. Look out for live entertainment too, roughly twice a month – guaranteed fun.

Spinola Bay (2136 7106, www. dublinermalta.com). Open 11am1am daily. Credit JCB, MC, V. Juuls Bar Located on the secluded steps that lead towards the hub of restaurants along Spinola Bay, Juuls Bar is somewhat easy to miss, but we suggest you keep your eyes peeled to make sure you don’t.

This popular laid-back hangout has reggae music and the lifestyle associated with it at heart, and is one of the only truly authentic reggae bars on the island. Try out the mojitos, particularly the signature Bomboklaat strawberry variety. Juuls is now also serving vegetarian and vegan food at Jangal within the bar itself (see p9) all day long, including the popular falafel burger and the mushroom burger.

7 St Joseph Street, Spinola Bay (9989 8444, www.juulsbar.com). Open AprDec noon-4am daily. No credit cards.

Saddles This popular bar has been around for 40 years and still holds its own as one of the most frequented hotspots in the area. Located across Spinola Bay, opposite the landmark ‘Love’ sign, it really is a prime spot for a few rounds of drinks with friends before hitting the clubs in Paceville. A big screen and several other small screens display sports and other major events, and if you’re after something a little quiet, head to the wine bar upstairs for a private party or a glass of wine.

Spinola Bay (2136 9993, www. saddlesmalta.com). Open 9am4am daily. No credit cards.

Tiffany Sophistication reigns at this ‘boutique bar’, where art and beauty meet a professional sommelier service. Ideal for a pre- or postdinner drink, you can choose from 300 wines, 50 champagnes, rare whiskies, cognacs, ports, sherries and Tiffany’s signature cocktails.

Accompany your drink with a selection of dips and nibbles, or even a cigar. Jazz and party nights are organised regularly.

Portomaso (9961 0163). Open 7pm-4am (times vary) daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Shopping Many shops open till late here, so you can shop to your heart’s content well into the night.

Arcades and shopping complexes Bay Street Bay Street was the first shopping complex to open late into the night and on Sundays. It is a popular mall (with an adjacent hotel and several good-quality food outlets too, including Hard Rock Café see p73, and Costa Coffee), spread on three floors. Some of the brands here include Guess, Mexx, Primo Emporio, Armani Jeans, Ecco, Women’s Secret, Marks & Spencer (food and wine), Tommy Hilfiger, Frank’s perfumery, Bortex, Swarovski and Chaucer’s bookshop.

People of all ages can have some

fun at Delta 4, a well-equipped entertainment centre on the fourth floor which offers, among others, an interactive laser labyrinth, virtual reality video games and a play area for the little ones. The entrance to the complex often doubles up as a stage for local musicians and other performers, and hosts a popular ice-skating rink during the winter season.

St George’s Bay (2138 4421, www.baystreet.com.mt). Open 10am-10pm daily.

Fashion De Fort Designer Wear This well laid-out designer store stocks a varied selection of Ralph Lauren products, including casual and smartwear, swimwear, shoes and accessories. Be sure to ask the helpful staff for assistance if necessary. Alterations can be made.

15 Portomaso (2138 7687). Open May-Oct 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; Nov-Apr 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hugo Boss It was the first mono-brand designer store of its kind on the island, and years later, it still holds its own.

As another upmarket shop in what is becoming an increasingly designer-oriented area, this smart outlet offers the full Hugo Boss experience for men. Browse the stylish and contemporary Boss Green and Boss Black collections, and find one of the island’s sharpest suit selections in here too. This one’s a must for fashion lovers.

2 Ross Street, Portomaso (2202 1000, www.vfgmalta.com/fashion/ hugo-boss). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Malta International Airport Departures Lounge, Gate 1 (2202 1003).

Rebelli Everything at Rebelli reflects a sense of luxury – it is not just about making a purchase here, but about enjoying designer wear and accessories through topnotch service. Located opposite the Portomaso Marina, this fashion store offers an exclusive Armani made-to-measure service for men, as well as menswear, womenswear and accessories from other prestigious brands such as Roberto Cavalli, Michael Kors and Elisabetta Franchi.

1 Church Street, Portomaso (2138 4050, www.rebelli.com). Open 10am-8pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Tiffany

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Sarto Sarto is the quintessential multi-brand store, offering an inimitable shopping experience with carefully selected pieces. Its window is a work of art and will draw you in to view the in-store brands including Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Blumarine, Sergio Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Burberry and

bucket of ice, your favourite vodka bottle and your preferred mixer.

Themed events are organised every Wednesday and special promotions are held regularly.

St Rita Street, Paceville (7935 0680).

Open 8.30pm-4am daily. Admission free.

Arts and entertainment Hugo Boss. See p82.

Emporio Armani for both men and women. With new names being added season after season and a plethora of clothing as well as accessories, bags and shoes, Sarto remains current – with only the best and the latest.

2B Ross Street, Portomaso (2202 1600, www.sarto.com.mt). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fashion accessories Porto A visit to Porto is worth your while, especially if you’ve got a soft spot for beautiful designer handbags and fashion jewellery, chosen with great taste. Everything you see in this shop is exclusive to Porto, with affordable handbag collections from Ripani, Braccialini, Radley, Tula, Tosca Blu, Lupo, Francesco Biasia and Chiara P, and fabulous designer jewellery from Coeur de Lion, Nour, Squadra Blu, Dansk, Lola Rose, Capiz and Gaby. This shop is a dream for handbag and accessory lovers.

Portomaso Shopping Complex, Portomaso (2137 2079, www. portomalta.com). Open 9.30am1.30pm, 2.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7.30pm Sat; 10am-1pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gifts and homeware Cleland & Souchet If it is luxury homeware you’re after, then this is the place you want to visit. The selection at Cleland & Souchet, presented

in a modern, stylish setting, is extensive. Products range from wines, champagnes, spirits and fine foods to silverware, gorgeous accessories and contemporary home décor. The shop also recently launched its new in-store wine café, serving gourmet treats, a vast selection of over 400 different wines from around the world and an impressive choice of 50 wines by the glass. For cigar fans, Cleland & Souchet stocks cigars from Cuba and the Dominican Republic.

Block 14, Level 0, Portomaso (2138 9898, www.clelandsouchet. com). Open 10am-8.30pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Nightlife St Julian’s and neighbouring Paceville have long held the top spot for the best and most varied offering of nightlife, parties and entertainment. There’s surely something for everyone to enjoy here, be it a laid-back evening of lounge music and cocktails or a long night of clubbing.

BarCelona Lounge Open day and night, BarCelona Lounge transforms itself from a cool lunch spot during daytime to a happening lounge and bar as the sun goes down. The kitchen serves up some quality Mediterranean dishes, among them seafood paella and porcini risotto, as well as Black Angus rib-eye for lunch (until 3pm) and for dinner (until 11.30pm). Apart from its popularity

as a casual diner, BarCelona is also renowned for its extensive list of cocktails. New management gave this Paceville hotspot a new look as of last October, and now includes two VIP areas, comfortable sofas on the terrace, as well as high tables and chairs. Check out the website for themed nights.

Ball Street, Paceville (2733 3395, www.barcelonaloungemalta. com). Open 11am-4am daily.

Level 22 Sophistication and style are what draw patrons here and keep them coming back. Located at the very top of the Portomaso Tower, Level 22 provides plush surroundings and a supreme view.

If you’re after something chic outside of the entertainment hub but very close nonetheless, Level 22 is worth a visit – it attracts an upmarket crowd and progresses from a cocktail lounge bar to a club throughout the evening. Kick-start your evening with a refreshing cocktail, particularly the signature mojito or caipirinha. Admission is against payment after 11pm.

Level 22, Portomaso (2310 2222).

Open July, Aug 9.30pm-4am daily; Sept-June 9.30pm-4am Wed-Sat. Qube, The Vodka Bar True to its name, Qube is all about vodka. With a selection of more than 60 vodka brands from across the globe and plenty of unusual flavours to choose from, you are free to create the vodka concoction of your choice.

If you’re a sizeable group, you could ask for a vodka bucket, namely a

Keen on a round of poker or laidback movie night? This town has got you covered.

Casinos Dragonara Casino The Dragonara Casino, housed within a stunning property built in 1870 for a Maltese marquis, is now in its 51st year of operation. With beautiful surroundings and right by the water’s edge, there’s a lot of historical and aesthetic value to this iconic spot, which has retained many of its original architectural and interior design features, but has been adapted for casino patrons.

The operators have spent over €14 million on state-of-the-art gaming equipment and technology, with the result being a gaming haven, including several slot machines, table games and numerous poker tournaments throughout the week. Free transport to and from the casino is available.

Dragonara Palace, Dragonara Road (2138 2362, www.dragonaracasino. com). Open 24hrs daily.

Portomaso Casino Located in Portomaso, this is one of the island’s most exclusive casinos. The swanky lounge area sets the scene, and is the place to grab a quiet drink before making your way to the roulette or poker tables. There’s a variety of games to keep you entertained, including slots and punto banco, daily Texas Hold’ Em poker tournaments and cash games. The dress code is smart casual with no shorts and sleeveless shirts allowed after 8pm.

You must present proof of identity

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St Julian’s

Shadow Lounge Shadow Lounge holds its own on the island’s party scene and has been attracting crowds since 2007.

With its effortlessly stylish vibe, Shadow Lounge fuses the appeal of a vibrant nightclub with ultraexclusive VIP lounging. Many of Malta’s leading DJs such as JJoy, Ruby, Jesmar, Ziggy, Stevy Vee, Mykill, Pillu, Sub-C, Malcolm and many others regularly perform alongside live musicians as well as guest DJs from across the globe. Expect funky/tech house, dance and electronic dance music throughout the night.

St George’s Road, Paceville (9963 0078, www.shadowloungemalta. com). Open 11pm-4am Fri, Sat (also eve of public hols). Admission free.

on your first visit, and foreign nationals must be over 18 years old to enter. Live tables are open till around 5am on weekdays and 6am on weekends. For the latest updates and events, especially poker tournaments, be sure to visit the website. Free parking is available.

Portomaso (2138 3777, www. portomasocasino.com). Open Slot machines & gaming tables 10am5am Mon-Thur; 10am-6am Fri-Sun. Other locations Oracle Casino, Qawra Seafront, St Paul’s Bay (2157 0057).

St Julian’s

Film Eden Cinemas Expect to find a generous choice of Hollywood releases, shown in English, at Malta’s largest cinema complex. You will also spot at least one local or independent film showing each week. The first screening usually kicks off at 2pm daily, while the last viewing is at about 11.45pm. Cinema is synonymous with popcorn, which you will find plenty of for sale at the bar, as well as nachos, smoothies and a pick-and-mix sweet shop too. Blockbusters are shown in the massive – and island’s only – THX certified auditorium Cinema 16, and films are shown in many formats including the latest HFR 3D, while all three of the largest digital screens show movies in 7.1 Dolby sound. If films are not your

Hotel Juliani. See p91.

thing, look out for the screening of operas and ballets, as well as the occasional comedy show.

Tickets may be purchased online.

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0400, www.edencinemas. com.mt). Screens 17. Tickets €4-€9. Credit DC, MC, V.

Sports and leisure Cynergi This is Malta’s largest gym, with a whopping 120 individual exercise machines ranging from elliptical trainers, rowers, steppers, treadmills and the innovative Arc Trainer from US fitness experts, Cybex, to a variety of cabled resistance and plateloaded machines. In addition to the well-equipped free-weights area, at Cynergi you’ll also find a functional training zone, complete with a TRX Suspension Trainer. Look out for the group classes too, including group cycle, Pilates and body conditioning to name a few. Personal trainer services are available, as well as swimming lessons for kids.

After your workout you may head to the 17m heated indoor pool, sauna, steam room, Turkish baths or the Carisma Spa next door.

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0700, www.cynergi. com.mt). Open 6am-10pm MonFri; 6am-8pm Sat; 8am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Eden Superbowl Eden Superbowl is the only bowling alley in Malta and it does its utmost to make bowling fun. There are 20 bowling lanes, a busy American pool and computer games area, a large screen showing sport events and a well-stocked bar for good measure, guaranteeing many entertaining hours. We suggest you attend Disco Bowling, held every Friday night with a DJ and UV glowing lanes, and look out for the regular special offers on bowling games and drinks. Two yearly international tournaments for bowling aficionados are also organised; the first has no age limit while the other is for seniors only.

86 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay (2371 0777, www.edensuperbowl. com). Open 10am-midnight daily.

Admission per game €6.50 Mon-Fri; €6.95 Sat, Sun (including shoe hire); €5.50 per game under-14s. Lanes 20. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

Where to stay The range of lodging options in this part of Malta suits all budgets and tastes.

Expensive Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay One of the first five-stars in the area, the Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay has retained its charm. The bedrooms, most of which enjoy a sea view, are all beautifully decorated and have good amenities. The facilities are also great and include three swimming pools and a shallow outdoor children’s pool with large sundecks, sun loungers and umbrellas, on-site water sports and diving centres, and direct access to a rocky beach with a sandy volleyball court. For some pampering visit Apollo Day Spa, which offers fantastic beauty and relaxation therapies, al fresco massages, a fitness centre, as well as a heated indoor pool, sauna and Jacuzzi. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel.

St George’s Bay (2137 4114, www.corinthia.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €160 single; €280 double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Hilton Malta Perfect for long or short family vacations, the Hilton is a great

St Julian’s InterContinental Malta

choice for sun, sea and general relaxation. Guests can kick back in the stylishly decorated rooms, all 410 of which are rich with Mediterranean tones and furnishings, while the executive rooms and suites also include access to the Executive Leisure Lounge and Executive Business Lounge. Take a rejuvenating dip in one of the hotel’s four outdoor pools and enjoy exquisite al fresco dining with fantastic views of the Mediterranean Sea. There are five restaurants within the hotel, three of which operate all year round – savour Mediterranean flavours at Oceana Restaurant and Bottega del Vino or flavours of the orient at Blue Elephant (see p81).

Facilities are not lacking; indulge in a relaxing spa treatment at Myoka Spa, or reenergise in the fully equipped LivingWell fitness centre with a heated indoor pool.

Portomaso (2138 3383, www. hiltonmaltahotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €190-€200 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. InterContinental Malta InterContinental Malta has established itself as a leading hotel on the island, exemplifying elegance and modern hospitality.

Centrally located in the prime

area of St George’s Bay, the bustling hotel has 481 bedrooms, all elegantly designed and furnished. Each room is complete with the comforts one can expect of a luxury property. The Presidential Suite and Highline Suites are located on the hotel’s upper floors – here guests can experience a range of exclusive services via Club InterContinental lounge while taking in stunning views of the islands.

St George’s Bay (2137 7600, www. intercontinental.com/icmalta). Rates (incl breakfast) €200 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Le Méridien St Julian’s Hotel & Spa Le Méridien is centrally located along the pretty promenade bordering the cosmopolitan town of Sliema and combines the charm of a boutique hotel with the relaxing feel of a spa resort. The hotel has 276 rooms, including suites, and a good number of them enjoy sea views of beautiful Balluta Bay and beyond. Guests can make full use of the rooftop swimming pool and rooftop restaurant with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean Sea (open for lunch during summer), a well-equipped fitness centre and spa facilities from Myoka Spa,

complete with a large indoor heated pool, sauna and Jacuzzi. Pets are welcome too against a nominal fee, though staff must be notified in advance to ensure available space.

39 Main Street, Balluta Bay (2311 0000, www.lemeridienmalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €125-€450 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Marina Hotel Corinthia Beach Resort This four-star beach resort overlooking St George’s Bay boasts an enviable location. The hotel has 200 comfortable rooms, including 11 suites with unobstructed views of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea and four family rooms. Facilities include a private pool club with pool bar, three restaurants and a café serving home-made pastries. The best part is that it is a four-star with the facilities of a five-star, as it shares various amenities with its sister hotel next door, the Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay (see p86), including water sports and diving centres, various restaurants and Dean Gera hairdressing salon. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel.

St George’s Bay (2370 2000, www. marinahotel.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €120 single; €260 double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V.

Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s Close enough to the action of St Julian’s, but far away enough to be really tranquil, the Radisson Blu Resort St Julian’s is in a fantastic spot. The glittering Mediterranean Sea surrounds this hotel and guarantees a restful holiday for guests. It features a well-being salon, gym, sauna, massage room and hairdressing salon, as well as an indoor heated pool and an outdoor pool complex. The excellent food and beverage options include Le Bistro, The Edge and fine-dining restaurant Kon Tiki.

St George’s Bay (2137 4894, www. radissonblu.com/stjuliansresort-malta).

Rates (incl breakfast) €190 single/ double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V The Westin Dragonara Resort An experience at The Westin Dragonara Resort never fails to please – the clear waters of the Mediterranean that surround it lap against the hotel’s Blue Flag private beach while guests can enjoy a stunning view of the hotel’s lidos from most rooms. All rooms and suites are spacious and bright, decked with ultra-comfortable beds, Wi-Fi, tea- and coffee-making facilities, as well as balconies with sea views. Take advantage of the resort’s restaurants and bars too.

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Dragonara Road (2138 1000, www. westinmalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €155 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Moderate

Hotel Juliani The friendliness of its staff and smaller ‘boutique’ scale make this family-run hotel particularly

St Julian’s

The George Hotel This eco-friendly, well-designed accommodation stands out in this area as a popular place to stay.

The George is situated bang in the heart of Malta’s entertainment district, but its tranquil and fresh ambience, as well as the doubleglazed apertures which block out all noise, remove guests from the hustle and bustle of Paceville. It is popular for leisure and business stays, and each of the 112 rooms is spacious and bright, complete with wired and Wi-Fi internet access, LCD TVs and an iPod docking station. Head to the urban spa for a spot of relaxation, followed by a visit to the heated swimming pool, sauna and Jacuzzi for a real treat.

Underground parking is available.

Paceville Avenue (2011 1000, www.thegeorgemalta.com). Rates €90-€180 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

worth staying at. With its designer element, brilliant location, fresh Mediterranean décor and individual touches, Hotel Juliani leaves guests remembering it long after they’ve checked out. The rooms – some of which have unobstructed sea views over Spinola Bay – are bright, airy, comfortable and spacious, and also have complimentary Wi-Fi, DVD player and TV. Be sure to unwind by the swimming pool on the roof for a true Mediterranean feel, and pop into fusion restaurant Zest on the first floor which serves top-notch international fare (see p73).

25 St George’s Road (2138 8000, www.hoteljuliani.com). Rates €120-€150 single; €130-€160 double. Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Valentina This family-owned hotel boasts a cool contemporary style, and is centrally located, in close proximity to public transport services, casinos, fine-dining restaurants and plenty of bars and clubs. Hotel Valentina’s rooms are available for single, double and triple occupancy, each fully air-conditioned, with free Wi-Fi connection and an iPod/iPad docking station. Make the most of the rooftop pool and pool bar open

Hostel Malti. See p93.

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between April and October, and enjoy good value-for-money and friendly service throughout your stay. Free underground parking is available exclusively for guests.

Dobbie Street, Paceville (2138 2232, www.hotelvalentina.com).

Rates €110 single; €165 double.

Credit AmEx, JCB, MC, V. Cheap

St Julian’s

Boho Hostel This bohemian hostel located within a villa is a perfect base for the chilled-out traveller. Just a few minutes away from St Julian’s centre, it predominantly attracts solo travellers from all over the world, and is run by a fun and friendly team. It has four dorm rooms (one for men, one for women and two mixed), each sleeping six guests and overlooking the garden.

Additionally, there is one private bedroom which is wheelchair accessible with a king-sized bed and ensuite bathroom, though we suggest you book ahead if you’d like to secure it. Its large garden is split into different designated areas, including a barbecue area and a chill-out and meditation area. It is a great spot to meet other like-minded travellers.

Villa Cycas, Dun Guzeppi Xerri Street (2765 6008, www.bohohostel. com). Rates €10-€22 shared room.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Hotel Valentina See p91

Hostel Malti This bright and colourful hostel in the village of Ta’ Giorni, neighbouring St Julian’s, is set in a converted Maltese townhouse dating back around 100 years.

It’s got four comfortable and airy dorms – all equipped with individual lockers – and can take

up to 32 people, as well as two private twin rooms and two double ensuite rooms. Guests can make use of the outdoor barbecue area and Jacuzzi, and take advantage of organised trips to Comino for groups during the summer. The team running this place is strict about quiet time after 11pm. This

hostel is great for the laid-back traveller and its affable hosts will encourage you to try kite surfing, biking and snorkelling among other fun activities during your stay.

109 Birkirkara Hill, Ta’ Giorni (2730 2758, www.hostelmalti.com).

Rates €17-€22 shared room; €50 private room. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

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viewingmalta.com/Luke Scicluna

Vittoriosa

The Three Cities & Around Overview and sightseeing Where to eat Where to drink Arts and entertainment Where to stay

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viewingmalta.com

The Three Cities & Around

Vittoriosa Waterfront

Step back in time Head here for interesting museums, charming alleys, beautiful promenades and authentic places to wine and dine.

T

here’s a reason why the Three Cities make it to every must-visit list: they really are spectacular and they encompass so much of what makes Malta special. You will find plenty to entice you here, from historical gems and beautiful architecture to stunning sea views and delicious food.

The Three Cities (known collectively as Cottonera in honour of Grand Master Cottoner, who built their inland defences) are made up of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua (referred to in Maltese as Birgu, Isla and Bormla respectively). They were extensively damaged in World War II, but a large-scale rehabilitation programme is ongoing, and much of it has now been completed.

Start your tour at Dock 1 in Cospicua – which you can reach on foot or by boat, by hopping on the ferry from Valletta (see Beat the traffic p97). Once a derelict and fast-fading dockyard, it has now been given a wonderful new lease of life thanks to its €11 million renovation, and was finally inaugurated in 2014. The result is a modern walkway that connects the scenic promenade between Senglea, Cospicua and Vittoriosa, including a pedestrian bridge across Dockyard Creek at the mouth of the dock.

Dock 1 will lead you directly to the Vittoriosa Waterfront, which is now a picturesque port of call for countless yachts and super yachts, as well as a lovely spot to stop for lunch or dinner.

With majestic Fort St Angelo at its tip, Vittoriosa has been described as the ‘cradle of Maltese history’. Fort St Angelo, where the Knight representative of the Sovereign Order of St John, Fra John Critien, still resides, remains a jewel of Malta’s military heritage and one of the finest fortifications found anywhere in the world. Today, visitors are unable to venture into the fort because it is also undergoing extensive restoration. However, there is now light at the end of the tunnel as the project is reaching completion. Once ready it will be turned into a heritage centre, highlighting the history of the region.

Chosen by the Knights of St John as their first seat of power before building Valletta, Vittoriosa flourished with the erection of splendid palaces and public buildings. However, it suffered significant damage during the Great Siege of 1565 and World War II, though several grand edifices still stand today. The Knights made their mark by strengthening the fortifications here and by constructing imposing baroque buildings, including the auberges of

Vittoriosa’s charming Collacchio is a must-visit

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the Knights. The church of Saint Lawrence (designed by Malta’s most prominent baroque architect Lorenzo Gafà), the Inquisitor’s Palace and the Bishop’s Palace are other interesting buildings.

The main street (Main Gate Street) used to divide the city of Vittoriosa into two distinct parts – the ‘natives’ resided on the western side, while the Knights occupied the charming Collacchio area, where all the baroque gems are to be found in a maze of pretty, winding streets. Today this division has completely disappeared and a stroll through the area is a delight, revealing several architectural treasures and hidden gems. Keep an eye out for the shrapnel marks on the façade of the Inquisitor’s Palace in Vittoriosa – a vivid reminder of the extent of the blitz the cities were subjected to in the last world war.

Like Vittoriosa, Senglea played an important role in the siege of 1565 and remained unconquered, earning the title Civitas Invicta (Unconquered City) from Grand Master Jean de la Valette. Situated on a peninsula jutting out into Grand Harbour, Senglea was founded in the mid16th century and its design and planning were inspired by the new ideas that emerged during the Renaissance, with a grid-like layout of streets.

The start of the Great Siege brought progress in the area to a swift halt, as the Three Cities found themselves the target of heavy attacks.

Although Senglea and Vittoriosa withstood the

attacks well, neighbouring Cospicua sustained very serious damage.

Back to Vittoriosa, if it’s a dose of history you’re after, visit the Inquisitor’s Palace, the only remaining one of its kind, or, for relaxation, take a short trip around the harbour on a typical Maltese boat (dghajsa) that leaves from the Vittoriosa Waterfront. While travelling from Vittoriosa to Senglea stop to take in the grandest building in Cospicua, the Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception, rich in beautiful works of art.

When in Senglea, which was awarded the title of European Destination of Excellence for Aquatic Tourism (co-financed by the European Union) in 2010, head to Gardjola Gardens to enjoy the views of Valletta, and then move on to visit Our Lady Of Victories Church, followed by an amble along the Senglea Waterfront.

Three Cities

BEAT THE TRAFFIC

Take the waterway over to the Three Cities for a much calmer journey into this historic region.

Regular, great-value ferry services operate between Valletta, Senglea and Vittoriosa. Visit www.vallettaferryservices.com to find the updated schedule.

Churches Our Lady of Victories Church Highlights of this beautiful church include the only crowned titular statue in Malta and the statue of ‘Kristu Redentur’ (Christ the Redeemer), which is believed to have healing powers. It was built in 1743 and named in honour of the victory of the Great Siege.

On 3 January 1921, it was elevated to the rank of basilica by Pope Benedict XV and, despite the fact that it was knocked down after a World War II attack in 1941, it was rebuilt and consecrated a mere 16 years later. Outside you will spot a monument honouring those who died in World War II. Pope Benedict XV Square, Senglea (2182 7203). Open 6-11.30am, 4-6.30pm daily. Admission free.

St Lawrence Church Featuring significant paintings by celebrated artist Mattia Preti, this church is a must for art and architecture lovers. Recognised as the oldest church in Malta, it served as the conventual church of the Order of St John between 1530 and 1571, before St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta was built.

The present church was erected between 1681 and 1697, and is a

stunning example of the Roman– baroque architecture that its architect Lorenzo Gafà is so famous for. Look out for the church’s recently restored marble chairs, and do pop next door to its museum (open 9.30am–noon daily) where you’ll find an eclectic collection of religious items such as the prie-dieu (kneeler) that Grand Master Jean de la Valette prayed on during the Great Siege of 1565, in which the Knights emerged victorious.

Vittoriosa Waterfront (2182 7057).

Open 9.30am-noon, 4.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9.30-10.30am, 4.305.30pm Sun. Admission free.

Museums Malta At War Museum This museum will help explain the mind-set of the Maltese during World War II, and everyone from local families to the British navy and air force is represented in the exhibition. It is set within the 18th-century military barracks that were used as a police station during the war. You can explore air-raid shelters, look at the wide range of war memorabilia and watch a short audio-visual documentary called ‘Malta GC’,

which is narrated by the late Sir Laurence Olivier. There’s also an extensive shelter to discover, which is actually large enough to get lost in. Audio guides are available, but you can also ask one of the helpful staff to give you a guided tour.

Couvre Porte, Vittoriosa (2189 6617, www.maltaatwarmuseum.com). Open 10am-5pm daily. Admission €10; €8 reductions; €5 under-16s; €25 family (up to two adults and three children).

Malta Maritime Museum The newly restored façade of this museum on the waterfront welcomes you to one of the most interesting attractions in the area.

First opened in 1991, it is set in what was originally the naval bakery of the British forces. It contains a plethora of historical nautical finds, including a new model of a noteworthy Karaka ship.

Other highlights are the Roman anchors and amphorae found in Roman shipwreck sites, as well as a one-of-a-kind square-rigged ship model that dates back to the 18th century. You can also venture inside the magnificent clock tower, which boasts a clock engine that chimes quarterly. Guided tours are available for groups, but must be booked in advance.

Vittoriosa Waterfront (2166 0052, www.heritagemalta.org). Open 9am5pm daily. Admission €5; €2.50€3.50 reductions; free under-5s.

Places of interest The Collacchio If you fancy letting history guide you through Vittoriosa, head here – to the ancient part of the city. Between 1530 and 1571 it was reserved for the Knights, with bollards marking the areas that were ‘out of bounds’ for common citizens. It was here that the Knights built their auberges, a state-of-the-art hospital, highceilinged townhouses and grand palaces, many of which still stand today. You may stroll where prominent personalities, scholars and artists, such as Grand Master Jean de la Valette, Grand Master L’Isle Adam and many young ecclesiastical dignitaries who later became popes, have lingered.

Wander freely, but do keep your eyes peeled for the following key streets: Hilda Tabone Street, the city’s former main street, dotted with beautiful buildings; il-Majjistral Street, a pretty, partly stepped street housing

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Fort Rinella This fort is one of only four 100ton gun batteries constructed in Malta and Gibraltar by the British. Built in 1878, it houses the 100-ton Armstrong gun (the world’s largest muzzle-loading cannon ever to be built). The gun itself is impressive because of its immense size, but also because it was placed at the entrance to Grand Harbour so as to better pierce through the steel plates of approaching enemy ships. In order to make the most of your visit, it is advisable to get here in time for the signalling display that takes place between 11.30am and noon, followed by a horse-and-marching display, and a DVD presentation at 1pm. Free audio guides are available in many languages.

St Rocco Road, Kalkara (2180 0992, www.fortrinella.com). Open 10am5pm Tue–Sun. Admission €10; €8 reductions; €5 under-16s; €25 family.

Inquisitor’s Palace If you only venture inside one museum in Vittoriosa, make it the Inquisitor’s Palace. This building first served as the law courts during the era of the Order of St John, and the oldest parts of the building date back to pre-1530. It was then used as the official residence of the island’s inquisitors and other high-ranking individuals until 1798. More recent additions include the opening of the Inquisitor’s bedroom and the launch of a new visitors’ trail. Apart from its riveting history, this location is also home to permanent Christmas and Good Friday exhibitions, where you can take a closer look at miniature procession statues, instruments such as the cuqlajta or clapper (which are only used during Holy Week when church bells cannot be rung) and the process of crib-making. The palace also hosts a permanent exhibition on the impact of the Inquisition on Maltese society, which studies themes such as the Holy Family and the cult of saints. Look out for the combo ticket offer if you visit the palace and the Maritime Museum (see p97).

Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2182 7006, www.heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-4.30pm daily. Admission €6; €4.50 reductions; €3 under-11s.

Fort St Angelo For the best views of this imposing fort, stop at St Barbara Bastions or the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta, or along the Valletta Waterfront. It is situated bang in the centre of Grand Harbour and is a wonderful legacy of Malta’s military heritage. It became the seat of the Grand Master and the Order of St John’s primary fortification when, upon their arrival in Malta, the Knights settled in Vittoriosa. During the Great Siege of 1565, the fort played a very important role in the Knights’ successful endeavours to repel the Ottomans. Though various reinforcements and modifications enlarged and strengthened the fort, today’s layout is largely attributed to the design of the Spanish military engineer Colonel Don Carlos de Grunenburgh, executed in the late 17th century.

His coat of arms still stands above the main gate. The fort retained its importance under British rule and was handed to the Maltese government when the Royal Navy left the island in 1979. Major restoration works are ongoing here to bring the fort back to its former glory and it will be open to the public in the very near future.

Gardjola Garden Don’t miss this pretty garden – the only public garden in the city – which is popular for its gorgeous views and photo opportunities.

You’ll happen across it as you walk around Senglea, and it

Senglea Waterfront You’ll reach this tranquil waterfront through the warren of residential streets in Senglea.

This spot offers insight into the slower-paced amble of local life, and it is more authentic than the busier Vittoriosa Waterfront across the bay. Watch the boats ebb by and interact with local families as they enjoy the evening and fresh sea air while sipping a drink on the esplanade. Visit at dusk and take in views of the beautifully lit Vittoriosa Waterfront and the yachts berthed there.

Vittoriosa Waterfront There’s a sense of glamour to be enjoyed on this side of the harbour, as super yachts bob on the water and Valletta’s magnificent bastions stand opposite. This is a busy area, usually packed with people strolling along or enjoying a drink by the water’s edge. It’s now one of the island’s top spots, with a number of stylish restaurants and cafés, several luxurious apartments and a home furnishings boutique.

Make sure to wander right to the end of the waterfront, where Fort St Angelo lies; you’ll be able to take in some great views here.

98 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

TOURS AND DETOURS

Around the Three Cities viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

stands above the fortifications overlooking the capital. It was built in 1551 by Grand Master de la Sengle and owes its name to the sentry box – gardjola – which juts out over the sea. This pictureperfect setting, featured on many postcards, is also gaining ground as a wedding reception venue.

O

nce you’ve explored everything the beautiful Three Cities have to offer, stay in the south to discover the other towns and villages nearby. It’s worth it – as the region is home to some of the island’s world-famous prehistoric sites, its prettiest fishing villages and its best seafood restaurants.

The south of Malta has a lot of competing to do. With most visitors flocking to Valletta because it is the capital, to the north for the beaches and to Sliema for shopping, this part of the island can struggle to get a look in. But, if time allows, we certainly suggest that you do schedule a trip down south, as this will enable you to discover an area that is one of Malta’s most undiscovered and underrated havens.

That said, not all of the places here struggle for attention. The HalSaflieni Hypogeum (Burial Street, Paola, 2180 5017, www.heritagemalta. org) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one that is celebrated around the globe. It is the only underground temple and burial place of its kind in the world and the effort to get here is well-worth it. Just be sure to book well ahead, as tickets are extremely limited.

Just a short drive away, the Tarxien Neolithic Temples (Neolithic Temples Street, Tarxien, 2169 5578, www.heritagemalta.org) consist of four megalithic temples constructed between 3,600 and 2,500 BC. The incredible workmanship that must have gone into building them is hard to comprehend, and you will be able to admire everything from the huge stone slabs of the temple walls, to intricate decorative carvings.

If you find yourself inspired by all this prehistory, then you could choose to incorporate more of it into your tour. Also nearby is the 5,000-year-old megalithic temple of Hagar Qim, which pre-dates Stonehenge in England and the Pyramids in Egypt. The neighbouring temple of Mnajdra (pictured above) is equally remarkable, and recognised as one of the most intact prehistoric temples anywhere in the Mediterranean region. Finally, even more historical treasures are on view at the Ghar Dalam Cave on the outskirts of the seaside village of Birzebbugia, where the earliest evidence of human settlement in Malta was found.

With the historical aspect of your day complete, you could choose to cool off with a swim at one of the many charming bays in the area, such as Pretty Bay or picture-perfect St Peter’s Pool, or head for a walk through the picturesque countryside that dominates this area. Wied iz-Zurrieq is arguably one of the most beautiful spots anywhere on the island. To see it best, hop onto a fishing boat to visit the picturesque Blue Grotto and keep your eyes peeled for the brilliant phosphorescent colours of the underwater flora. A kilometre away from Blue Grotto lies yet another idyllic spot – Ghar Lapsi (pictured left). This natural rocky cove, popular with swimmers, snorkelers and divers, is blessed with sparkling blue-green waters. During the colder months, the surrounding coastline is perfect for hiking and rock-climbing.

Finally, be sure to enjoy the coast – which is definitely the key draw for this part of Malta. The fishing villages of Marsaxlokk and Marsascala are definitely worth a visit, whether for Marsaxlokk’s Sunday morning fish market, or to dine at one of the traditional seafood eateries dotted along the promenade in both villages. viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

Three Cities

the Auberge d’Angleterre that is today used as a library (ask the librarian to let you in); the equally attractive Tramuntana Street, its highlight being the Norman House; and il-Palazz tal-Isqof Street, home to the grand-but-nowabandoned Bishop’s Palace, built in 1542 and enlarged in 1620.

offers a splendid view. But it isn’t just the setting that sets Sottovento apart – the food is wonderful too. You’ll find a mix of casual dining here, including pizza and pasta, as well as finer fare such as fresh fish and meat. Naturally, given the setting, it is the fish that really impresses – ask for the ravioli in a prawn and tomato sauce, the lobster spaghetti or the catch of the day. Meat lovers are also well taken care of, with excellent cuts of beef or burgers.

Round things off with one of the ice-cream sundaes in the sunshine – a definite family favourite.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2180 8990). Open noon-11.30pm daily. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to eat The Three Cities are home to several fantastic and innovative restaurants, most of which are housed in fascinating buildings.

Meanwhile, the fishing villages in the south are a must if you want to sample some seafood specialities.

CAFÉS Chocafé Located at the heart of Malta’s biggest business centre in the south of the island, this café has a variety of delicious coffee blends on offer, ranging from aromatic to delicate.

It also serves a wide selection of snacks, including healthy, homemade sandwiches, cookies and brownies – with gluten-free and vegetarian options available too.

Whatever you choose, we suggest that you take it outside to enjoy on the terrace – the panoramic views of Smart City’s iconic Laguna Walk are breath-taking!

Smart City, Kalkara (2144 4454).

Open June-Oct 8am-1am daily; Nov-May 8am-6pm Mon-Thur; 8am-11pm FriSun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. FUSION Bongo Nyah This boho café/bar/restaurant became an overnight hit with locals when it opened its doors in 2014, and it’s definitely one of the trendiest spots in the area.

Live music is the order of the day, most days, but the food also takes centre stage. The international platters are particularly popular; there are ten to choose from including Italian, Maltese and oriental. We suggest the selection of mini burgers, or one of the hearty salads, washed down with a colourful cocktail. A friendly place attracting an alternative crowd.

Triq il-Gardiel, Marsascala (9985 5057). Open 7pm-1am Mon-Sat; 6pm-1am Sun. Main courses €12. No credit cards.

MEDITERRANEAN Don Berto Located at the top of a flight of stairs on the Vittoriosa Waterfront, Don Berto is housed in a vaulted building that has been renovated to the nines. Its superb menu includes everything from pasta to fresh fish and steak to pizza, and, with generous portions throughout, this restaurant is incredibly good value for money. We suggest you try the decadently delicious fagottini (baby pasta baskets stuffed with cheese and pear tossed in a creamy cheese fondue and walnuts), the recently introduced grilled flap meat and the mouth-watering Oreo Cake.

Vittoriosa Waterfront, Vittoriosa (2180 8008, www.donberto.com). Open July, Aug 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-11pm Sun; Sept-June noon-3.30pm daily; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; 6.30pmmidnight Sun. Main courses €7-€22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Etienne’s Walk along the promenade to this discrete eatery, or, better still, go right to the door by boat.

Enclosed within Fort St Angelo, Etienne’s specialises in modern Mediterranean cuisine and is known for adding a twist to every dish. The menu varies according to the season but recent highlights have included the local prawn

Inquisitor’s Palace. See p98.

carpaccio with a strawberry and orange emulsion, followed by the catch of the day and chef Etienne’s trademark chocolate fondant.

If you prefer meat you won’t be disappointed as Etienne is adamant about only using the finest cuts.

Fort St Angelo, Vittoriosa Waterfront (2180 3086). Open June-Oct 6pmmidnight daily; Nov-May 6pmmidnight Tue-Sun; also noon-3.30pm Sun. Main courses €18.50-€22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Osteria Ve This restaurant is run by expat duo Stefano and Thomas, and they have injected plenty of love and passion into its creation. The results showcase that, with our favourite dishes including mussels cooked in a spicy tomato sauce or tuna tartare to start with, followed by home-made lasagne made with sausage meat and peas or tasty king prawns with bacon. To round off, don’t miss the trademark tiramisu or the chocolate mousse with strawberries. The menu changes regularly, so this is a great place to sample produce that’s in season. .

Pope Alexander VII Street, Vittoriosa (7734 7136). Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Wed-Mon. Main courses €14. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sottovento Overlooking the picturesque Vittoriosa Waterfront, this place

Ta’ Grabiel Established in 1953 by Grabiel De Gabriele, today Ta’ Gabriel maintains its original ethos of delicious fare served with a smile.

So, sit back and enjoy the fresh local clams served on a bed of crushed ice or Ta’ Grabiel’s aljotta – their take on the traditional fish soup.

Alternatively, let the veal escalopes served with Parma ham and sage in a creamy leak sauce take your taste buds on a glorious journey.

Complete your meal with one of the home-made desserts – we love the banoffee pie and crème caramel in particular. Book this popular eatery early to avoid disappointment.

Mifsud Bonnici Square, Marsascala (2163 4194). Open noon-2.30pm Tue-Sun; 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €22. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Ta’ Rita Lapsi View Bar & Restaurant This quaint restaurant, located at the edge of a cliff, is a real throwback to the 1960s, with formica-laminated tables and salmon-coloured walls. Its menu is dotted with traditional Maltese dishes and includes delicious rabbit pasta and grilled fresh fish, as well as weekly specialities that change according to what’s in season. We recommend you finish your meal with the home-made rum baba or crunchy kannoli – simply scrumptious.

Xaghra ta’ Ghar Lapsi Street, Ghar Lapsi (2164 0608). Open June-Sept 10.30am-5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; 10.30am-11pm Sat, Sun; Oct-May 10.30am-4pm Tue-Fri; 10.30am11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €13.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tal-Familja You really can’t go wrong at this lively family-owned restaurant.

It is run by the Precas (who are well-known across the island for their consistently excellent food) and the varied menu is sure to please everyone. Fish is a staple here – so, if you’re in the mood for it, head straight for the ‘catch of the day’ display to see what’s

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Three Cities

BeBirgu The beautiful façade of the St Lawrence Band Club dominates the main square of Vittoriosa. Head through the ornate entrance hall to find a lovely internal courtyard, ideal for outdoor dining. BeBirgu is a little bit of Belgium in Malta, complete with a selection of Belgian beer and affable Belgian chef Ed at the helm. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there’s a huge variety on the menu; we particularly like the Swiss/ Belgian fondue, the perfectly cooked steaks and, of course, anything chocolatey for dessert.

San Lawrenz Band Club, Vittoriosa (7722 0077). Open 7am-11pm daily.

Main courses €16. Credit V.

viewingmalta.com/Aaron Briffa

BELGIAN

Three Cities

fresh. Alternatively, the penne served with goat’s cheese is very tasty, followed by the duck breast in an orange sauce and topped with forest fruits or the creamy beef stroganoff. Finish your meal with the well-loved banana tarte Tatin and lots of ice-cream, or the trademark crème caramel.

Gardiel Street, Marsascala (2163 2161, www.talfamiljarestaurant. com). Open noon-midnight TueSun. Main courses €12-€18.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tartarun If you’re staying in the area, then this may quickly become your home away from home. Locals flock from all over the island for a meal here, tempted by the fantastic fresh fish and seafood dishes, which are all served in a very creative way. The mix of antipasti, which includes a carpaccio of prawns, fried calamari and grilled sepiette, are firm favourites, as are the tasty black tortellacci filled with scallops and crab. For your main, we suggest the catch of the day or the original sea bass cooked with five local sausages. Make sure you leave enough room for the scrumptious caramelised Valrhona white chocolate parfait with raspberry textures or the Sicilian-inspired cassata with candied kumquats. Book well ahead.

Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk (2165 8089, www.tartarun.com). Open noon-3.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-3.30pm Sun. Main courses €18€22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink The romantic promenades and charming backstreets of the Three Cities are home to several pretty little wine bars – a wonderful alternative to the islands’ busier nightlife spots.

Del Borgo Wine Bar This is easily one of the most popular wine bars on the island.

Traditional in style but with a modern take, the mood set by candlelight and the atmosphere are wonderful. The menu offers simplebut-delicious fare, which includes various cheese and meat platters, tapas and traditional Maltese dishes featuring local bread stuffed with ricotta and pork, among others.

The well-stocked bar serves over 400 local and international wines, as well as beers and spirits. For a tasty souvenir visit the enoteca, which displays a variety of quality olive oils, wines and other typical Mediterranean treats. Book in advance to avoid disappointment, and note that no children under 16 are allowed here in the evenings.

St Dominic Street, Vittoriosa (2180 3710, www.delborgomalta. com). Open 5pm-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Chocafé. See p99.

Il-Forn Art Gallery & Wine Bar Artistic, dynamic and with a fantastic menu of food and drinks, customers here can enjoy over 80 different wines or the wonderfully refreshing home-made lemonade for a non-alcoholic option, while admiring the modern art that graces the old walls and the original baker’s oven. The cuisine is eclectic as aside from the delicious platters of dips, meats and cheeses, Il-Forn also offers traditional Austrian fare, such as the ‘mega’ schnitzel burger, and Asian treats like curry prawns served with coconut rice. Take a seat in the delightful courtyard and enjoy a bite and a drink under the stars.

27 North Street, Vittoriosa (7982 0379, www.ilforn.com). Open noon-3pm daily; also 7pm-1am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Arts and entertainment Away from the nightclubs and busy hotspots, why not make use of the island’s largest sports club and the only golf course on the island?

100 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Sports/Active Marsa Sports Club Open since 1902, the Marsa Sports Club houses Malta’s only golf course, 19 tennis courts (including two indoor courts and two clay courts – the only ones on the island), five fully air-conditioned squash courts, an open-air swimming pool, a cricket pitch and a gym studio. The club hosts over 2,500 members as well as numerous visitors, and has facilities for no less than eight sports disciplines. Day memberships are available, and you can visit the website for information on the latest classes and competitions.

Whether or not you visit the Club you should not miss a meal at Chukkas within the sports ground – they serve among the tastiest and juiciest flame-grilled beef steaks we’ve ever tasted.

Off Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2123 3851, www.marsasportsclub.com).

Open 8.30am-10.30pm daily.

Royal Malta Golf Club Celebrating 127 years of golf in Malta, the Royal Malta Golf Club is

a staple for sport lovers here. The clubhouse is a destination in its own right thanks to its well-stocked golf shop, terrace bar and restaurant, as well as its lovely views. This 18-hole course offers exciting and demanding experiences, and you can play while enjoying unique historical landmarks, including a 500-year-old chapel near the 10th green and the ruins of the servants’ quarters, which date back to the time when British servicemen played here. Day memberships are available and competitions are held every Saturday.

Aldo Moro Street, Marsa (2122 7019, www.royalmaltagolfclub. com). Open 7.30am-5pm daily.

Where to stay This part of the island is not renowned for offering a wide choice of accommodation options, however one property stands out.

EXPENSIVE Palazzo Vittoriosa See p29.

Sliema & Around Overview and sightseeing 104 Where to eat 105 Where to drink 110 Shopping 110 Where to stay 117

viewingmalta.com/Mike Watson

Sliema & Around

Malta’s café and shopping capital Sliema is Malta’s most popular shopping destination and the centre of café culture – a seafront town that is always bustling.

F

or your dose of retail therapy, the two main shopping streets in Sliema house a variety of high-street and designer brands, but it doesn’t end there: the town is also home to the islands’ biggest shopping malls. Apart from the shops, you’ll also find several watering holes, eateries and places to stay in the area, as well as the island’s most frequented promenade.

While older generations paint a very different picture of Sliema of the past, replete with traditional grand townhouses and suiting its namesake – the Maltese word for peace, sliem – the Sliema of today is a hive of activity, and easily one of the most popular places to be in Malta.

This is not to say that you still can’t find clues that hint at its time as a charming seaside village. A walk through the less frequented streets reveals some of the remaining grand homes built by the country’s

British rulers and wealthy Maltese.

Some have been restored to their former grandeur while others have sadly been left in disrepair, tucked away behind high-rise apartments, characteristic of the property boom which began in the mid-20th century.

Today, the busy town, which stretches from Manoel Island to the edge of Balluta Bay in St Julian’s, is home to several cafés, bars, shops, hotels and apartments.

The action starts early in the day, as an army of joggers takes to the promenade for morning exercise.

It gets no quieter later on though, with walkers, business people and shoppers continuing to file along throughout the day, while both locals and tourists enjoy an evening stroll or a bite from one of the kiosks, al fresco cafés and restaurants along the coast once the sun sets.

The town’s main shopping streets are Bisazza Street and Tower Road, while The Point – one of Malta’s largest and most popular shopping malls

Sliema is home to the island’s most frequented promenade

104 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

– is situated just a stone’s throw away at Tigné Point. Aside from its impressive size and quality retail outlets and eateries, the mall also offers picturesque views of Valletta and its bastions.

Walking up Tower Road towards St Julian’s, the shops give way to a more residential area, featuring upmarket apartments with coveted views of the rocky beach below and the beautiful blue sea beyond. In fact, it is no surprise that Sliema is also popular among swimmers and sun worshippers, who flock to its beaches.

It is for these reasons that the densely populated town of Sliema remains popular among people of all ages, with many vying to own property in the area and frequenting its numerous retail outlets and hangouts – as you’ll no doubt discover, there’s really always something to see or do in Sliema.

If you would also like to explore the town’s environs, you would do well to take the short walk down Sliema’s busy promenade in the opposite direction of St Julian’s, where Sliema merges with two lesser known towns – Gzira and Ta’ Xbiex. Worth a visit in its own right,

Take a harbour cruise Malta is truly beautiful when

witnessed from the sea so why not take a harbour cruise? Leaving from the area on the promenade known as Sliema Ferries, marvel at the two natural harbours on either side of Valletta by boat – Marsamxetto Harbour and the historic Grand Harbour.

this area is home to the largest marina on the island. Take in the magnificent views of Valletta from Manoel Island (traffic is limited here, promising a hassle-free stroll along the marina), imagine life on one of the super yachts berthed here, and have a peek at the ducks at the quirky duck village.

There’s also a great selection of eateries here, from Chez Philippe and the Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club to Ali Baba, while Yacht Café, facing the marina, is a perfect spot for a fresh Lebanese salad and fantastic coffee on the seafront.

A small playground along the marina will also keep your kids entertained, while if your feet are still itching, the picturesque seaside walk extends up to Pietà on the outskirts of Valletta.

Where to eat

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a selection of tasty pies on the menu – along with mushy peas, as well as traditional sausages and mash, and hearty soup in the winter months. Take a seat in the bright and modern interior, or indulge in some people-watching on one of the tables outside.

149 The Strand, Gzira (2725 1251). Open 11am-10pm SunThur; 11am-11pm Fri, Sat. Main courses €8. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Cafés

17 Tigné Seafront (2134 2456).

Open 7am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

St Dominic Street (9992 3183, www. caffeberry.com). Open 8am-7pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Caffè Berry This little gem of a café in Sliema offers a dizzying array of delicious teas and coffees, as well as fresh juices and tasty food using fine ingredients. There’s everything from cakes and sweet treats to savoury nibbles, and the café also stocks premium products that you can take home, including quality jams and chocolates.

The Grassy Hopper Starting off with a mobile vegetarian kiosk and a fantastic concept, the Grassy Hopper went on to open a café in Gzira and a take-away food outlet in Valletta. The team here is on a mission to make vegetarian and vegan options tastier and more filling, using the freshest local and seasonal ingredients – and

Busy Bee Well-known local brand Busy Bee has been a favourite among the Maltese since the 1930s, and is sought after for its speciality products which are all made inhouse. We recommend the famous ricotta-filled kannoli, as well as the almond pastries and the renowned cassatella Siciliana. Busy Bee also runs a gelateria a few doors away, offering an extensive choice of icecream flavours (we’re particularly fond of the dark chocolate variety), crêpes and waffles.

30 Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2133 1738, www.busybee.com. mt). Open 8.30am-10pm daily.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Café Giorgio This popular pavement-side corner café continues to be the perfect place to observe the world go by.

The restaurant menu here features pizzas, pastas and burgers, as well as Mediterranean and seafood specialities, making it ideal for a meal, snack or drink while enjoying a spot of people-watching.

MedAsia Playa. See p106.

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Sliema & Around

Star Fish Bar & Pies If you’re looking for a piece of the UK in Malta, this traditional fish and chip shop is the place to get it. Serving a variety of fish including cod, haddock, plaice, scampi and squid alongside hand-cut chips using local potatoes, the ode to British cuisine doesn’t stop there. There is also

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Little Argentina This authentic Argentinian steak house is pretty new to Malta’s dining scene and is already a favourite among dedicated carnivores. Everything here is authentic, including quality meat, beer, wine and sweets – all sourced from Argentina and all prepared and served by Argentinians. Relax and enjoy home-made empanadas followed by a juicy rib-eye, fillet or veal ribs accompanied with chips or skin-on wedges, while the kids are kept entertained thanks to a variety of board games – unless they’re too busy creating art on the paper table mats using the crayons provided! Once you’ve had your fill, don’t miss the tasty desserts made with typical dulce de leche.

Tower Road (2704 2444). Open 6-10pm Mon, Wed-Sun; also noon-3pm, Sat, Sun. Main courses €20. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

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New York Best The recently opened outlet in Sliema follows the flagship restaurant that is a favourite among university students in Msida. Offering New York-style eats from hand-made fresh beef patties to hot dogs, soups, bagels and other yummy bites, the aim here is to serve up the best of the Big Apple without one having to fly across the Atlantic. Our favourite picks are the delicious Juicy Lucy burger with oozing melted cheese, the chilli cheese fries and the signature 24-hour slow-rise sourdough pizza. New York Best is also worth a visit if you have a sweet tooth, with the red velvet milkshake and waffle cup being particularly tempting.

Qui-si-sana Seafront (2728 2899, www.newyorkbest.com.mt). Open June-Sept 8am-2am daily; Oct-May 8am-midnight daily. Main courses €8. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Esperanto Street, Msida; Oscar Zammit Street, Msida; Paceville Avenue, Paceville.

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If you’re feeling peckish, check out the wide variety of options available in Sliema, catering for all tastes and budgets.

that’s exactly what it’s doing.

Favourites at this hip, attractive café include the spicy chickpea and Portobello mushroom burgers, as well as the tasty hummus wrap.

St George Street, Gzira (2131 1676, www.thegrassyhopper.com). Open 8am-4pm Mon-Thur, Sat; 8am-10pm Fri; 9am-4pm Sun. No credit cards.

fragrant dishes are the chicken pasanda, featuring a korma-based sauce enhanced by raisins and nuts, as well as the flavourful lamb rogan josh accompanied with rice and naan bread – a typical Indian dish that is always a favourite here. The restaurant is due to be closed for refurbishment from February 2016.

11 Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Msida (2134 0489). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-May also 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses €9. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Qawra Road, Qawra.

The perfect place for c o ff e e a n d ic e - c r e a m Follow the locals to the best coffee and ice-cream spots

Fusion

Sliema & Around

MedAsia Ideal for unwinding over dinner and a few drinks, MedAsia, on The Strand, has a lively terrace, in which an outdoor bar is set up on Fridays and Saturdays, and a stylish interior, with a welcoming private room.

The food here comprises a fusion of Asian and Mediterranean cuisines, and while perfect for relaxation during the day, the eatery takes on a club-like vibe in the evenings, and you can enjoy a refreshing cocktail well into the early hours. The restaurant’s sister beach lido in QuiSi-Sana, MedAsia Playa, is open in the summer months, and is a great option for a cool summer evening.

The MedAsia team also runs the popular Londoner Pub in St Julian’s.

90 The Strand (2133 3221, www. medasia.com.mt). Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses €18-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Taste With a menu comprising a masterful blend of Mediterranean and Vietnamese cuisines, the award-winning Taste restaurant is located within the Fortina’s (see p117) tropical garden. Sit amidst the greenery as you peruse the selection of dishes that are sure to set your taste buds tingling.

Fortina Spa Resort, Tigné Seafront (2346 6666, www.fortinasparesort.com).

Open 12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun; 7.3010.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €14€40. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. TemptAsian The chic atmosphere at this eatery is enhanced by its gorgeous views of Valletta’s harbour from its outdoor terrace on the 9th floor of The Palace (see p118).

The beautiful surroundings are perfectly complemented by the menu, which offers a variety of dishes originating from a fusion of Asian and Western cuisines.

The Palace, High Street (2133 3444, www.thepalacemalta. com). Open June-Sept 7.30-11pm daily; Oct-May 7.30-11pm TueSat. Main courses €10-€24.50.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Maltese

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liema is at the heart of café culture, boasting numerous coffee shops along its popular promenade. If you’re looking for a pitstop after some retail therapy, head to one of the outlets along the promenade just at the edge of the shopping streets like Café Giorgio (see p105), or if you’re indulging in some retail therapy at The Point Shopping Mall, the classy French Affaire in the piazza is a great option. Meanwhile, gourmet café Mint (see p109), also located on the promenade, has some of the best coffee on the island, as does the newly opened Caffè Berry (see p105), also renowned for its top-quality teas.

If the Maltese weather has you looking for a cooler treat, the area is also a popular spot for ice-cream, with a vast number of kiosks and icecream parlours that are perfect for a refreshing treat. One of the oldest ice-cream parlours is La Gelateria Lungomare on the promenade, which has been around since the 1980s, and offers a choice of over 50 flavours. A newer addition is the Sicilian Dolci Peccati, which has rapidly established itself as a favourite among lovers of fine desserts thanks to its yummy Italian pastries, cakes and of course, ice-cream.

Further on, towards St Julian’s, Gelateria Figo is another popular spot for its unique flavours like gorgonzola ice-cream and prickly pear sorbet, and finally, recently opened RivaReno in St Julian’s is also high on the list. Launching its first store in 2005 in Milan, the Italian ice-cream parlour has found its way to Malta and into the hearts of the locals, who love its delicious array of traditional and innovative flavours including ricotta and fig, and saffron with sesame.

Indian Garam Masalaa This homey eatery that’s very popular with locals is run by husband-and-wife team Katherine and Sunil, and is renowned for its genuine, aromatic and wellbalanced curries. Our pick of the 106 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Mint

Ta’ Kris Hidden away in a quaint little alley just off one of Sliema’s busy shopping streets, this former bakery, run by celebrated chef Kris, offers an authentic dining experience comprising hearty, traditional food, good value and friendly service. Apart from the fresh fish of the day, favourites here include typical Maltese dishes such as bragjoli (beef olives), stuffed chicken, beef stew and rabbit cooked in wine. As for dessert, this excellent eatery offers more traditional local fare in the form of helwa tat-tork (similar to nougat) and imqaret (date cakes), as well as delicious apple pie.

80 Fawwara Lane (2133 7367). Open 11.30am-11pm daily. Main courses €10€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mediterranean Ali Baba This hidden gem of a restaurant offers Lebanese and North African fare which is sure to impress even the most discerning of foodies.

Established in 1987 by Abdul Rahman Harb, Ali Baba, now run

by Abdul’s son Hany, has become a household name for authentic Lebanese cuisine in Malta. With simplicity as its philosophy, and using high-quality ingredients and a mixture of herbs and spices from around the world, the menu is flavoursome, comprising cold and warm mezzes and vegetarian dishes, as well as salads, grills, stews and desserts. The menu – also listed on a blackboard as you enter and viewable on the website – changes around three to four times a year, and Hany is always on hand to ensure a good choice. Book ahead 9 Ponsomby Street, Gzira (2134 0119, www.hanyharb.com). Open noon-3pm, 7-10pm Tue-Sat. Closed Aug. Main courses €25-€35.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cardini This stylish eatery with a terrace enjoying sea views across the street, offers a wide selection of tasty snacks, platters to share, pasta dishes, pizzas, meats, salads and fresh fish. The Caesar salad comes strongly recommended – signature dish of Cesare Cardini,

very good value. Try popular local dishes like rabbit cooked in white wine and garlic, as well as delicious pan-fried lampuki (local fish), followed by the much-loved local dessert of imqaret (date cakes). The menu also features Mediterranean dishes including a generous seafood platter, a variety of meats, several pasta and pizza options, as well as salads for a healthier alternative.

17 Ghar il-Lembi Street (2131 7633, www.laromarestaurantmalta. com). Open 10am-11pm daily.

Main courses €6-€21. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

the restaurant’s namesake – as do the seafood tortellacci, featuring fresh egg pasta stuffed with mixed shellfish and ricotta cheese, tossed in a rich lobster bisque with fresh seafood. Diners also benefit from free parking at the CCCP car park (situated at Tower supermarket).

132A Tower Road (2133 2324, www. cardini.com.mt). Open noon-3pm Tue-Fri; 6-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €8.50-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Cuba – Bistro, Pizzeria, Café This popular hangout, with outlets located in Sliema and St Julian’s, seeks to combine a speedy service with a laid-back atmosphere. The

staff are friendly and helpful, matching the general tone of the restaurant at large – easy and pleasant. Cuba serves light snacks and breakfast in the morning and a bistro menu from afternoon till evening, featuring tasty salads, pastas and grills, while the woodburning Neapolitan oven bakes delicious pizza. Look out for the Cuba burger, which includes a home-made beef burger mixed with onions, garlic, finely chopped capers, spices, parsley and thyme, and is served with cheese and sautéed mushrooms. This is also a charming spot for excellent coffee, wine, beer and cocktails.

Tigné Seafront (2010 1313, www. cafecuba.com.mt). Open 8.30am11pm daily. Main courses €9.50€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Spinola Bay, St Julian’s (2010 2323).

The Galley This eatery, located next to The Royal Malta Yacht Club and overlooking the Marsamxett harbour, enjoys an idyllic setting and terrific views of Valletta’s skyline. Sit and take in the laid-back beach house feel of the interior while perusing the menu, which offers both popular staple dishes and seasonal specials, including premium meat, fresh fish and pasta. The kitchen is run by Mark Camilleri, a highly regarded

La Cuccagna Best known for its tasty pizzas, which many consider to be among the best in Malta, this family-run restaurant also offers a number of pasta dishes, salads, grills and fresh fish. If you’re not going for one of the signature pizzas (with over 20 different toppings and the possibility of adding more toppings of your choice), we recommend opting for fresh fish, oven-baked ribs or Black Angus steak, which is grilled to perfection. Glutenfree options are also available.

47 Amery Street (2134 6703). Open 7-11.30pm Tue-Sun; also noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, Sun Oct-June. Main courses €18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Cuba – Bistro, Pizzeria, Café

chef – we love his delicious concoctions, particularly the spaghetti with tuna bottarga and tasty pistachio-crusted sea bass.

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex (2131 8801, www.thegalleymalta. com). Open noon-3.30pm daily; 7-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €18.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. hiM With a name that is an acronym for high-quality Italian mozzarella, it’s no surprise that this cheese-focused eatery offers a variety of tasty meal options centring on the freshest mozzarella, which is made in-house daily. The way it works here is that you first pick a mozzarella portion size, and then proceed to add as many delicious additional sides as your tummy will allow, from Italian salami, hams and other cheeses to tomatoes, basil and truffle creams. You can also choose from a selection of salads or baguettes, and even take back a souvenir from the products on display, which include pasta, wines, artisan beer, marmalade and other preserves.

The Strand, Gzira (2788 0400). Open 9am-midnight daily. Main courses €10€12. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. L’Aroma For a taste of local delights, L’Aroma, specialising in Maltese and Mediterranean cuisines, offers an ample menu of quality dishes at

Le Malte Situated along the cosmopolitan Sliema promenade, Le Malte is a stalwart of genuine local cuisine, distinguished by great service, excellent value and authentic dishes, particularly Maltese and Mediterranean options. If you’re looking for some local flavour, try the rabbit, horse meat, beef olives (bragjoli) or snails, all cooked in the traditional way.

Meanwhile, wine lovers will be delighted with the great selection of local wines on offer.

Tower Road (2134 2242). Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses €12.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mint This charming gourmet café located on the promenade features a changing selection of delicious, freshly made sweet and savoury food including vegan lasagne, hearty salads, savoury and sweet muffins, large sandwiches and brownies. There’s no set menu, but you can take your pick of what’s on display. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, we recommend the home-made carrot cake which is typical of New Zealand – where the owners are from. For coffee lovers, many will argue that you will find the best coffee in Malta here, and if you’d rather lay off the caffeine, they also offer delicious fresh juices and smoothies.

30/39 Tower Road (2133 7177, www. mintmalta.com). Open 8am-4pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €2.50-€8.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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The Chophouse & La Cucina del Sole The Chophouse and La Cucina del Sole are sited next to each other at Tigné Point, perched high above Marsamxett harbour which separates Sliema from Valletta. The views from the spacious terraces or glass-fronted façades of these two restaurants is breath-taking – suffice to say that one 18th-century Grand Tour traveller described this view as one of the finest in Europe. The Chophouse specialises in grilling great cuts of meats along with several other speciality dishes including fish. It boasts a fine cellar with an extensive selection and possibly the widest choice of single malts and fine whiskies in Malta. As soon as you enter there’s a sleek, comfortable lounging area where you may sip your malts or pre-dinner cocktail before heading to your table. La Cucina del Sole presents mouth-watering, varied antipasti, regional specialities and fresh fish, together with exquisite pizza baked in a wood-burning stone oven. Parking is free at The Point car park and in case of bad weather, covered access is possible.

The Chophouse, Tigné Point (2060 3355, www.chophouse.com.mt); La Cucina Del Sole, Tigné Point (2060 3434, www.lacucinadelsole.com.mt).

Open 7-11pm Tue-Sun; also noon3pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Lionel Galea

Chez Philippe This delightful eatery is located on the Gzira promenade and features a varied menu of tasty food and tempting specials that are available for a limited time. In fact, the menu here changes seasonally, with a fantastic selection of starters, salads and delicious main courses and desserts. What’s more, if you’re an Instagram friend who likes to share photos of your food you’re in luck, as free Wi-Fi is available should you want to log on.

181 The Strand, Gzira (2133 0755, www.chezphilippe.com.mt). Open noon-3pm Mon-Sat; 7-10.30pm Fri, Sat; also noon-3pm Sun Nov-May. Main courses €14-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Arcades and shopping complexes The Plaza Shopping Centre The Plaza’s origins date back to 1957, when the site at which you’ll find the shopping centre today was developed into the Plaza Cinema. Closing down its cinema operations in the 1980s, the company went on to develop Malta’s first managed shopping and office leasing centre. Opening its doors in December 1993, the Plaza Shopping Centre has since gone from strength to strength, earning itself a reputation as a convenient one-stop-shop for quality goods and services from both local and international brand names.

Bisazza Street (7934 6677, www. plaza-shopping.com). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sliema & Around

hiM. See p109.

Paparazzi 29 Clubhouse Paparazzi is fantastically located just across the bridge that connects The Strand to Manoel Island and has an extensive terrace that affords beautiful views that are hard to match. Expect generous portions, fresh fare and reasonable prices. What’s more? Food is served all day, starting with breakfast (we recommend the English breakfast) and moving on to lunch and dinner (the ‘Sharlon’ full rack of pork ribs roasted in a maple and barbecue glaze is not to be missed).

Manoel Island, Gzira (2133 5829/ info@29clubhouse.com). Open 10am11pm daily. Main courses €14-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club This bright and airy restaurant, situated on the outskirts of Sliema, affords fantastic views of Valletta across the waters. The varied menu offers a great selection of pizzas, pasta dishes, fresh fish and more, with favourites including the tasty fritto misto, focaccia and juicy home-made burgers.

Dessert can be chosen from the selection on display, but a recent addition that is proving popular is the warm chocolate fondant, served with vanilla ice-cream.

Ta’ Xbiex Waterpolo Club also offers weekly specials which the chef prepares according to what’s freshly available. Book ahead and ask for a table on the extensive terrace, weather permitting.

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront (2733 0144).

Open noon-3pm daily; 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Vecchia Napoli Vecchia Napoli Trattoria Campana e Pizzeria is a favourite of Maltese diners, many of whom consider its pizza to be the very best on the island. The Calzone Capodimonte is legendary. The dishes which

emerge from its Neapolitan kitchen are as authentic as they come – a proud product of la povera cucina. Vecchia Napoli pizzaioli were trained in Italy and the basic ingredients, namely the flour, tomatoes and mozzarella are all specially imported from Naples.

Vecchia Napoli is situated in Tower Road along Malta’s favourite passiggata (stroll) route overlooking the sea. It has a spacious indoor dining area with sea views from the upper floor and an outdoor terrace too. Best to book ahead.

255 Tower Road (2134 3434, www. vecchianapoli.com). Open 6-11pm Mon- Fri; noon-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €7-€10. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink Sliema’s got a wide selection of watering holes, making it the perfect spot for a quick tipple or leisurely chilled drink in the sun or under the stars.

Black Gold Having large indoor and outdoor areas on The Strand, this lively pub is a popular destination among locals and foreigners. Buzzing throughout the day, it starts off as a great place to grab a bite to eat and a relaxing drink while you watch the game on the big screen, with a menu which features pasta dishes, pizzas, grills and salads. As the day wears on, the volume is turned up, attracting a livelier crowd, with live bands and entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays. Food is served until 11.30pm.

93-95 The Strand (2133 4808).

Open 8am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. La Rive This laid-back bar and restaurant located just across the seafront is

110 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

certainly a hotspot in the area, and ideal for enjoying some great food and drink on one of the outdoor tables when the sun is shining.

The menu presents a wide variety of dishes including pasta, salads, wraps and platters. Among our favourites are the crispy beef salad with deep-fried Black Angus beef rump strips tossed in honey and dark soy sauce on a bed of lettuce, cherry tomatoes, bell peppers and cucumbers, and the fioretti al coniglio – home-made pasta filled with rabbit in a light curry and balsamic cream sauce. The well-stocked bar offers a variety of hot and cold drinks, as well as a good selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. The kitchen opens from noon to 11pm on Monday to Friday and until 11.30pm on Saturday and Sunday.

33, 34 Tigné Seafront (2131 8323, www. larivecafe.com). Open 8.30am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Paradise Exiles If you’re looking for a casual and laid-back place at which to enjoy a cold drink and snack under the sun or after dark, Paradise Exiles provides just that, to the tune of chill-out and reggae music from the jukebox. Make the most out of summer at this beach bar located a few metres from the sea, filled with bathers by day and locals looking to wind down after a day at work as the sun begins to set. If the sun and sea have worked up an appetite, try the juicy barbecued burger for a delicious taste of summer.

Tower Road. Open May-Oct noon2am daily. No credit cards.

Shopping Visit Malta’s shopping capital for a mix of fashion, food, cosmetics and footwear, as well as souvenirs and home décor.

The Point This modern shopping mall is the largest on the island. Opened a few years ago, The Point has been quick to establish itself, housing top brands including Guess, Massimo Dutti, Mexx, New Look, Mango, Debenhams and Scholl, as well as local outlets including MVintage jewellery and Dean Gera Haircare.

New additions include Garbo, Bershka and River Island, while renowned make-up brand MAC cosmetics is set to open soon too. As you browse, you can even stop for a bite at one of several cafés, or if you’re in the mood for a leisurely meal, head to the restaurants surrounding the outdoor piazza or those a little further afield, enjoying picturesque views of Valletta across the sea. The mall also features an entertainment area for the little ones and an extensive parking area.

Tigné Point (2065 5132, www. thepointmalta.com). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Books Merlin Library This delightful bookshop is a veritable treasure trove of fiction and non-fiction titles, beautiful Melitensia and coffee-table books.

Have a peek around the shelves for the latest page turner to take with you to the beach or to fill the time on your flight home, and look out for seasonal offers and promotions for some great deals on books. New titles arrive weekly.

Bisazza Street (2133 9400).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fashion Bortex Over 50 years since it first opened its doors, Bortex remains one of the most sought-after places for tailored fashion, especially among men. Featuring a luxurious interior complete with a lavish chandelier

and an exposed brick wall in the Sliema branch, here you’ll find an extensive range of formal tailoring, outerwear, casual clothing, footwear and accessories. Bortex retails renowned brands such as Ralph Lauren, Gant, Lacoste, McNeal, Brax, Rochas, Lanificio Flli. Cerruti dal 1881, Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, as well as its own house brand Gagliardi. Bortex also offers clothes’ hire and a bespoke made-to-measure service for men.

41 Tower Road (2133 8142). Open June-Sept 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-May 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Diesel Store Located on the recently revamped St Anne Square, the flagship Diesel store on the island stocks the full Diesel collection of apparel ranging from denim, accessories and belts to watches, shoes, sunglasses and underwear.

St Anne Square (2258 4430). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Merchants Street, Valletta (2258 4442); The Warehouse Outlet, Luigi Ellul Street, Attard (2258 4407).

Max Mara For the sophisticated and chic woman, Max Mara collections offer elegance and style, with a distinct cut and design. Aimed at shoppers with a slightly larger budget, this brand features beautifully tailored pieces. This season, we’re seeing a lot of simple and elegant silhouettes in bold, geometric prints, fine silks and billowy palazzo pants – perfect for those summer days.

46-48 Tower Road (2134 1961).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Miss Selfridge If you’re keen on keeping up to date with the latest trends, Miss Selfridge will have you covered – stocking everything from on-trend daywear to fun party dresses and dancing shoes. With pumping music often blaring out of its speakers, it was one of the first high-street shops to hit Malta and has remained popular ever since.

For summer, look out for bright colours, geometric and tribal prints, and bodycon staples for the evening.

Level 1, The Plaza Shopping Centre, Bisazza Street (2134 6493). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Savoy Arcades, Republic Street, Valletta; Arkadia Commercial Centre, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo.

Nara Camicie If you’re a fan of sharp and somewhat flashy Italian fashion, Nara Camicie should be your go-to spot for an excellently tailored shirt or blouse. With a truly vast array of different colours and styles on display, you’re sure to be spoilt for choice whether you’re looking for plain, frilled, coloured or patterned shirts. It also stocks a good selection of scarves and ties.

Bisazza Street (2133 2587, www. naracamicie.com). Open 9.30am7.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Melita Street, Valletta (2122 7503).

items within one of the largest blocks in the area. You’ll find the women’s section on the ground floor, comprising smart workwear and more casual daywear, as well as lingerie, shoes, accessories and bags.

The upper level is split between the menswear and children’s collections, as well as a separate space for Zara Home, stocking a lovely range of accessories, carpets, bedding, cushions, giftware, cutlery and crockery.

1 Tower Road (2132 3585, www. zara.com). Open 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Fashion accessories

Next UK-based retailer Next, offering excellent quality fashion and accessories for men, women and children along with a range of homeware, has a number of outlets in Malta, but the corner store on Bisazza Street, where you’ll find ladies’ fashion, men’s fashion, children’s fashion and accessories spread out over three floors, is one of the largest. Check out the season’s latest styles whether you’re shopping for yourself, your kids, or looking for a gift for someone special.

Tower Road (2132 2841). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Zachary Street, Valletta (2125 1561); Level 2, Arkadia Commercial Centre, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3334); Next HOME, Bisazza Street, Sliema (2134 4156).

Accessorize/Monsoon Whether looking for an elegant dress for a fancy event and the jewellery to match, some stylish beachwear to perfect your seaside style or the ideal handbag to carry all your bits and bobs, Accessorize and Monsoon, in this joint outlet on two floors, will have you covered. This season mixes fluorescent detailing with a distinct festival feel, featuring natural textures like braid, rope and feathers. Monsoon also has an outlet for children next door, with a small selection for boys and a larger variety of pretty dresses, shoes, swimwear and accessories for girls.

65 Bisazza Street (2131 7951). Open June-Sept 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7.30pm Sat; Oct-May 9.30am7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Republic Street, Valletta (2125 2136); Main Street, Paola (2189 4920); Axis, Paceville (2704 0267); The Duke Shopping Mall, Republic Street, Rabat, Gozo (2155 2540).

Zara This vast corner store is always on our go-to list on a shopping day. It boasts a fantastic range of

Coccinelle Coccinelle has been an icon of elegance and Italian design for over 30 years, and its Sliema store

features a wonderful selection of high-quality, hand-crafted bags. If you happen to be visiting this summer, look out for the bright spring/summer collection, featuring a rainbow selection of bold colours in different shapes and styles. Still, there’s nothing quite like the classics, which are also well represented here in neutral colours that will stand the test of time.

65 Bisazza Street (2131 7951). Open June-Sept 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7.30pm Sat; Oct-May 9.30am7.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Republic Street, Valletta (2125 2136); Main Street, Paola (2189 4920); Axis, Paceville (2704 0267); The Duke Shopping Mall, Republic Street, Rabat, Gozo (2155 2540).

Furla Featuring top-quality Italiandesigned products that range from handbags and purses to accessories, Malta’s Furla has recently moved into a new, beautifully designed shop on the popular Tower Road. This season’s bags and accessories come in an array of uplifting summer colours like turquoise, pink and coral, besides classic neutrals and pastels.

19 Tower Road (2132 2638, www. furla.com/mt). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 8 Zachary Street, Valletta (2122 5342); Arkadia Commercial Centre, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat, Gozo (2210 3000).

Guess Accessories Guess has recently opened a new store on a bustling corner of Bisazza Street in Sliema, stocking a wide selection of accessories for men and women, ranging from jewellery and handbags to leather shoes and sneakers. This season presents an interesting mix of the classic Guess aesthetic featuring neutral colours and classic shapes, with bolder prints like zebra stripes.

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Max & Co This shop caters for women of all ages and presents a variety of styles from classic to cutting-edge, extending from clothing to shoes, bags, eyewear and accessories.

On our visit we simply loved the play on classic neutrals, with soft linens in simple and elegant cuts giving a chic safari vibe.

High Street (2131 6360, www. maxandco.com). Open Sept-July 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; Aug 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Guess Accessories

C R I T I C S ’ C HO I C E

Lionel Galea

Shopping

If you fancy a dose of retail therapy on your visit, the area has some great shopping destinations that are bound to deliver just that.

La Rive. See p110.

Sliema & Around

Bisazza Street (2131 4434, www. guess.eu/mt). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Level 1, Bay Street Shopping Complex, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2372 2702); The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema (2060 1045).

Jewelled by Mark Getting your own custom-made jewellery is sure to make for a thoughtful gift or special souvenir. Mark, the talented designer here, crafts lovely pieces using gold, silver and a variety of beautiful natural stones, resulting in a unique item that will undoubtedly make an impact. Mark also specialises in repairs, so if you’ve had a little accident with one of your favourite pieces, you don’t have to go far to have it mended!

3 Manuel Dimech Street (2134 6757).

Open 10am-1pm, 4-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Optika If you’re looking for the ultimate in eye-care and top quality optical products, Optika is sure to be a contender. Offering a tried-and-tested prompt and personal service, as well as an excellent range of prescription spectacles and sunglasses, it also stocks a vast selection of brands including Versace, Oliver Peoples, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Ray Ban, Paul Smith, Bulgari, Burberry, Polo, Ralph Lauren and Vogue, among others. You’ll also find daily, monthly and coloured contact lenses here.

17 The Strand (2133 5463, www. optika.com.mt). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 3 Ross Street, St Julian’s (2138 3348); 74 Main Street, Rabat (2145 0573).

VIP VIP stocks an impressive range of Swiss watches, small leather goods, branded costume jewellery, exclusive stationery and personal accessories suitable for both gifts and a treat for yourself. Among the brands you’ll find here are Breil, Sector, Fossil, Morellato, Just Cavalli, Skagen, Michael Kors, Tag Heuer, Kenneth Cole and Swatch, as well as Waterman and Parker pens, and leather goods by Cerruti. It has also recently added top Italian brand 2Jewels to its range.

Bisazza Street (2134 2466). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations Melita Street, Valletta (2124 9006).

Food and drink Casa Natura For the health-conscious, Casa Natura should definitely be on the list of places to visit in the area. Stocking products from top health brands like Dr Stuart, Quorn, Weleda and Himalaya, as well as an array of vitamins and minerals, essential oils, herbal teas, cereals, organic products and items for those who suffer from allergies or health conditions, it makes for a health food paradise.

If you need guidance, the friendly staff are always on hand to share their vast knowledge with you.

117 High Street (2131 9929). Open 9am-2pm, 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The White Sheep Foodies will love this little shop, located just outside Sliema and run by family trio Tania, Sarah and Pippa. It is part food store, part deli and part degustation café, and offers individually selected foods

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Sliema centre This is considered by many to be Malta’s top shopping destination. Its main shopping streets are the adjoining Tower Road and Bisazza Street (also home to popular shopping centre The Plaza, see p110). You’ll find a great mix of high-street brands and upmarket boutiques to suit any style and budget.

2

The Point A short walk away from Sliema’s main shopping streets, The Point Shopping Centre (see p110) is Malta’s largest mall. With its modern interior and vast selection of designer and high-street stores, it’s a must-visit for shopaholics.

3

St Julian’s The shopping destination within the Portomaso area in Sliema’s bustling neighbour St Julian’s caters for the more upmarket shopper, with its selection of designer stores and the island’s largest jewellery store, while Bay Street Shopping Complex (see p82) houses more mainstream high-street brands.

which range from organic pasta, rice and sauces, to teas, coffees, chocolates, biscuits and cakes, as well as truffle-based products, foie gras, pâté, and all sorts of condiments. In the deli area, you’ll find artisanal cured meats and farmhouse cheeses, delicately smoked fish, bottarga, caviars and more. We love browsing through the choice of coffee-table and recipe books while sipping on a freshly brewed speciality tea and munching on a tasty ciabatta or crispy salad.

405 Rue d’Argens, Gzira (2131 5222, www.thewhitesheep.eu). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gifts and homeware Butlers Hugely popular German brand Butlers opened its first shop in Malta last year, offering stunning furniture and gift ideas, as well as funky décor items and beautiful home accessories. On our visit to

Star Fish Bar & Pies. See p105.

the new shop, we spied elegant homeware and glassware, colourful outdoor furniture and a selection of lovely ceramic items, including whimsical patterned knobs and handles. If you happen to be visiting during Christmas time, head here for fun seasonal décor and accessories.

Tower Road (2132 0610, www.butlers. com.mt). Open 9.30am-7.30pm MonSat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Camilleri Paris Mode The Camilleri family is renowned locally for retailing only the best for fabric, bridalwear, gifts or home interiors. The outlets are a haven for the fashionable, exclusive homeowner, stocking a wide variety of beautiful home furnishings; from quality tableware and bed linen to lighting and occasional furniture, wallpapers, paints and home accessories. An exquisite bridalwear collection is found at the flagship store in Rabat, which is in itself an architectural gem and an interior design aficionado’s dream, while the Sliema store offers a smaller selection of gifts.

Annunciation Square (2134 4838, www.camilleriparismode.com).

Open 9.30am-1pm, 4.30-7pm Mon, Wed, Fri; 9.30am-7pm Tue, Thur; 9.30am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations 54/56 St Catherine Street, Rabat (2010 2030).

Boux Avenue This recently opened outlet of the British lingerie brand stocks everything from basques to baby dolls, with a vast selection of bras in sizes between 30A and 40H. The summer months also see the outlet launching the swimwear collection, featuring bikinis with padded, unpadded, bandeau and triangle tops, along with mix and match bottoms, and catering for real women with every body shape.

Level 3, The Plaza Shopping Centre, Bisazza Street (2131 4132). Open JuneSept 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-May 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Open Sun in Dec. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. J. Piccinino Probably the most popular outlet for lingerie, hosiery, underwear and swimwear in the Maltese islands, J. Piccinino has been around for over 30 years. Whatever your figure, you’re sure to find a great option here, whether you’re looking for statement swimwear or supportive undergarments.

The brands they stock include Bestform, Freya, Lisca and Luna, as well as Triumph – which caters for the young as well as for curvier figures, and also has a range for breast cancer survivors who have had a mastectomy.

59 Tower Road (2701 0078, www.jpiccinino.com). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Yamamay Offering a great range of lingerie, pyjamas, clothing and beachwear for men, women and girls, Yamamay is the perfect place to grab a new bikini in the hot summer months or to treat yourself to a new racy lingerie set throughout the rest of the year. The summer 2015 collection truly has something for every shape and size, from daring bikinis to colourful shapewear, and is

Soap Café

bound to ensure you look your best on Malta’s hot beaches!

Tower Road (2133 1491, www. yamamay.com/en). Open 9.30am8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations St Joseph High Street, Hamrun (2122 7929); Republic Street, Valletta (2124 0236); St Augustine Street, St George’s Bay, St Julian’s (2733 3899).

Sportswear

The Plaza Shopping Centre. See p110.

Urban Jungle For the sports fanatics out there in search of fashionable sportswear, shoes and equipment, this store is a great choice. You’ll find popular brands like Nike clothing for men, women and children, as well as a great range of Converse, Crocs and Havaianas footwear.

Recent additions also include Eastpak bags and New Era caps. In summer, sporty swimming trunks and flip flops are also stocked.

Bisazza Street (2131 2096). Open 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Other locations throughout Malta.

Where to stay Sliema is a much sought-after place to stay when visiting the Maltese islands, due to its proximity to a wide array of shops, cafés and restaurants. There’s also a great range of accommodation options depending on your taste and budget.

Expensive Fortina Spa Resort If you’re looking for a truly luxurious experience, the Fortina Spa Resort offers just that, boasting Europe’s firstever therapeutic spa bedrooms, equipped with a therapeutic bath, high pressure massage showers for two and a Dermalife Machine for body detoxification. With large balconies overlooking the garden and pool area, these rooms provide a truly special place to stay. If you’d prefer to go for something a little more low key, the regular rooms are also a fine option, with

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Soap Café Soap Café, opened five years ago by talented soap maker Charlene, presents a relatively new concept in Malta, producing and stocking originally crafted beauty products, for all types of skins and ages.

Charlene makes the soap, lotions and balms herself, using some of the best local produce, and she has now begun to distribute her products to local upmarket stores too. We love the Maltese flag soaps – they make the perfect souvenirs!

46 St Mary Street (2788 3675, www. soapcafemalta.com). Open 4.307.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Lingerie and swimwear

viewingmalta.com

The Victoria Hotel This well-priced hotel is a short walk away from the town centre, yet in a quiet enough area to give you a break from the busiest roads. Rooms here are equipped with air-con, TV, phone, ensuite bathroom and small balcony, and there’s free Wi-Fi in the lobby.

The hotel also offers special spa and wellness packages if you’re looking to relax and unwind during your stay. Meanwhile, The Penny Black Bar in the lobby is replaced

by It-Terrazzin, during the summer months, a typical Maltese restaurant by the hotel’s pool deck.

Gorg Borg Olivier Street (2133 4711, www.victoriahotel.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €100 single; €150 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Waterfront Hotel Offering a personalised service that is a true embodiment of Maltese hospitality, this hotel overlooks the sea and enjoys views of the capital city, Valletta, making it a very attractive accommodation option. The 116 guest rooms are bright and comfortable, and the majority of them have beautiful sea views that guests can enjoy from their spacious balcony. The hotel also has free Wi-Fi throughout.

The Strand, Gzira (2090 6899, www. waterfronthotelmalta.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €75-€110 single; €105-€160 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Sliema & Around

Cheap

The Palace

excellent facilities, spacious layouts and breath-taking views.

The Fortina also benefits from an ideal location, situated a very short walk from central Sliema and next door to the popular The Point shopping mall (see p110).

Tigné Seafront (2346 0000, www. fortinasparesort.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €100-€300 single; €200€500 double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Moderate The Palace Centrally located amidst Sliema’s grand old townhouses, this beautiful hotel boasts tastefully decorated and spacious rooms, with amenities including air-con, LCD flat screen, satellite TV and wired internet connection. The

hotel also features six designer suites, all having different and innovative themes, such as the View suite, the Flavours suite and the Music suite. Guests also have access to the tennis and squash courts at the Union Club, just a short walk away. In-house bars and restaurants include the Talk of the Town Café, TemptAsian (see p106) and The Tabloid (with its regular themed nights). Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel.

High Street (2133 3444, www. thepalacemalta.com). Rates €130-€200 single/double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Preluna Hotel & Spa This popular hotel, run by the Preca family for over 40 years, enjoys a central location in very

118 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

close proximity to the busy Sliema shopping area and just across the road from a beach club offering diving opportunities, water sports and a great bar to relax by. With a number of recently refurbished sea view rooms, the hotel also features a spa equipped with swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, massage and beauty therapy studios that guests can enjoy, and offers fitness classes if you want to work off your holiday over-indulgences! You can also relax at Skyroom bar and Sakura restaurant, which serves Japanese cuisine. A gym is available for all-inclusive hotel residents.

Tower Road (2133 4001, www. preluna.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €110 single; €150 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Corner Hostel Malta Corner Hostel Malta, opened just two years ago, makes for an excellent choice for travellers on a budget. Set in a beautifully restored townhouse a short walk away from the centre, it has lots of character via the brightly coloured patterned tiles and several authentic features. There are 12 bedrooms in all, most of which have ensuite bathrooms. Guests are invited to socialise and use the internet in the fully-equipped kitchen and casual lounge area.

6 St Margaret Street (2780 2780, www.cornerhostelmalta.com). Rates €45 single (bedroom for two); €18 single (bedroom for four). Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hostel Jones This recently opened hostel with six rooms and 29 beds in total enjoys a very young and vibrant atmosphere, where guests are encouraged to interact and socialise.

A ‘make yourself at home’ attitude applies here, and get-togethers are often organised with the guests.

A unique aspect is the custom art by local artists adorning the walls and the new roof garden where guests can chill in the open-air.

138 Tower Road (2133 4070, www.

Sir Adrian Dingli Street (9932 0003, www.maltahostel.com). Rates €10-€45 single. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

Mdina, Rabat & Around Overview and sightseeing 122 Where to eat 124 Where to drink 129 Nightlife 130 Where to stay 130

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Mdina, Rabat & Around

The silent city Malta’s capital city of old stands watchful over the islands on a scenic hilltop surrounded by bastions, giving it a magical air which harks back to its grandiose past.

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walk along the medieval city’s narrow streets will transport you back in time to when Mdina was home to the aristocracy of the day, experiencing the stillness in the air which has earned it the name, ‘the silent city’.

Historical buildings are to be found around every corner, so look around with every step you take and absorb the extraordinary mix of well-maintained baroque and medieval architecture. The majority of restaurants, cafés and wine bars here are housed within refurbished old buildings, so when it’s time for a break you can refuel and enjoy the beautiful surroundings at the same time.

We recommend that your tour of Mdina, known as Melita during the Roman rule, start just outside its walls at the Domus Romana, where you can picture what life was like in the Roman era through well-preserved ruins and artefacts. It was at this time in the city’s vast history that Mdina was of the greatest importance – a time in which Malta became a Municipium and the Roman Governor’s palace was erected within its walls (though the configuration of its walls has changed over time).

After the Romans and a brief Byzantine rule, the Arabs conquered the Maltese islands at around 870 AD. While not much evidence of Arab rule remains today, it was then that the

capital gained its new name – Mdina – as well as the thick protective walls that surround the city. An Arab graveyard has also recently been unearthed.

Later on, in 1530, the Maltese islands were granted to the Knights of the Order of St John

by Charles V, following their loss of Rhodes to the Turks in 1522. At this time, in the face of the disquieting rise of Muslim power, Malta began to gain supreme strategic importance for the control of the Mediterranean.

Mdina’s epic story continued some years later, when it shifted its role to a place of shelter for a vast portion of the island’s population during the Great Siege of 1565. Yet following the Knights’ victory over the Turks, the population within the old capital began waning, as many moved to Grand Master de la Valette’s newly built capital city, Valletta.

This was not the final chapter of the walled city’s impressive story, however. Disaster struck in 1693, when a powerful earthquake caused extensive damage to the city, leaving many of its magnificent buildings, including the cathedral, damaged or in ruins. A magnificent new cathedral in rich baroque style rose in place of the old one, designed by acclaimed Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà. Opening its doors in 1702, it went on to influence the rest of the

Historical buildings stand at every corner

122 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

city’s architectural character.

The damaged fortifications were next on the agenda – and were remodelled and repaired between 1723 and 1728, under Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. Some alterations were also made to the city’s street plan, and new grand buildings and palaces were built, including the Magisterial Palace and the Banca Giuratale (or Municipal Palace).

During your visit, take in some greenery with a stroll around the gardens in the ditch below the bastions – one of the more recent additions – and admire the newly restored mighty ramparts before heading into the city. Just through the gate and on your right is the Mdina Dungeons Museum, located within the former prison beneath the Magisterial Vilhena Palace, where prisoners were interrogated and tortured in the grisliest of methods. The Magisterial Palace itself is also worthy of a visit – it houses a fascinating array of artefacts and displays belonging to the Museum of Natural History, giving you a glimpse into Malta’s natural biodiversity.

Other great spots to include in your tour of Mdina are the Bishop’s Palace, the Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum, the Mdina Experience, the Banca Giuratale and the Episcopal Seminary, which is home to the Cathedral Museum’s rich collection of musical manuscripts.

The silent city’s main square is also a sight to behold, surrounded by stately buildings. As

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Museums Carmelite Priory Museum Take a tour of one of Malta’s only open-door monasteries with a resident friar as your guide. Begin at the stunning cloister that stands around the idyllic courtyard, and make your way to the Carmelite Church, which, among the treasures on show, houses an impressive painting of ‘The Annunciation’

by Stefano Erardi and an ornately carved, gilded wooden frame by Pietro Paolo Troisi. The adjacent 17th-century monastery provides an insight into the friars’ frugal way of life, and you can visit the basic cells that ensure a life of solitude and prayer. Regular, free concerts of classical music are also held here, so call ahead to check when the next one is on.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4524, www.carmelitepriory.org).

Open 10am-5pm Mon-Sat (prebooking required). Admission €4; €3 reductions; free under-12s.

Cathedral Museum This former seminary is a mustvisit, largely due to a collection of treasures that were salvaged from the old medieval Sicolo-Norman

Howard Gardens

cathedral, after it was severely damaged in the worst earthquake ever to hit the Maltese islands, in 1693. The collection includes embossed choir books, woodcuts by Albrecht Dürer and a 14th-century polyptych depicting St Paul, which once adorned the high altar. The museum also extends to Palazzo de Piro, round the corner, where you’ll find displays of artistic and historical artefacts from Maltese parishes and other sources. The 17th-century palazzo also houses a new Museum of Tools, Trades and Traditions, which presents a private collection of objects and tools related to an array of trades.

Archbishop Square, Mdina (2145 4697). Open 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-3.30pm Sat. Admission €5; €3.50 reductions; free under-12s.

Domus Romana Housed within the remains of a fascinating Roman townhouse which was discovered accidentally in 1881, this museum’s intricate mosaic floors are among the oldest and finest compositions in the western Mediterranean. Once home to an affluent Roman, the Domus Romana now preserves a number of precious Roman remains and allows visitors a glimpse of life within a house during the bygone Roman era.

Museum Esplanade, Rabat (2145 4125, www.heritagemalta.org). Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €6; €3-€4.50 reductions; free under-6s.

Mdina Dungeons Museum Set within the former prison beneath the Magisterial Vilhena Palace, this attraction brings blood-chilling episodes from the

forgotten past to life. Explore the secret underground passageways, chambers and cells to witness episodes from the dark and turbulent side of Maltese history including torture during the time of the Inquisition, with over 75 full-size figures in period clothes, stretching from Roman times to the short-lived French occupation, including the Arab domination and the reign of the Knights of Malta.

St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 0267, www.dungeonsmalta. com). Open 10am-4.30pm daily.

Admission €5; €2 reductions.

Museum of Natural History If you’re a nature lover, a visit to Mdina would not be complete without a trip to this museum, housed within the 18th-century baroque Magisterial Palace.

Experience Malta’s natural biodiversity and environmental science through a fascinating array of specimens on display here, including over 12,000 rocks and minerals, 4,000 birds, birds’ eggs and nests, around 200 mammals, over 200 species of fish, a varied fossil collection and thousands of shells and insects.

Vilhena Palace, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 5951, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am5pm daily. Admission €5; €2.50€3.50 reductions; free under-5s.

Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum Dating back to the 13th century, Palazzo Falson is Mdina’s second oldest building. Originally home to Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher, a well-travelled artist, scholar and philanthropist, it now houses an

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Further afield, more lush countryside awaits, with the rugged coastline at Dingli Cliffs and the wooded area of Buskett Gardens both well worth a wander around.

In the other direction, heading back towards the centre of the island, the busy town of Mosta could also be a welcome addition to your itinerary. The town square’s imposing church boasts an impressive dome which measures 37 metres in diameter, making it the third largest in Europe and the ninth largest in the world. The charming neighbouring villages of Naxxar, Attard, Lija and Balzan are full of character and also worth a detour if you can spare the time, though it’s far easier if you have your own transport.

St Paul’s Cathedral This imposing baroque cathedral, designed by celebrated Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà, is largely known for an apse mural of ‘The Shipwreck of St Paul’ crafted by Mattia Preti’s bottega assistants. You’re in for a treat if you happen to visit during Easter, when it really comes alive with locals from across the islands gathering to glimpse the cathedral’s ornate altar of repose.

St Paul’s Square, Mdina (2145 4136). Open 9.30am-4.45pm MonSat; 3-4.30pm Sun. Admission Cathedral & Museum €5; €3.50 reductions; free under-12s.

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and prominent figures left behind some beautiful palaces to explore, including Palazzo De Piro and Palazzo Falson in Mdina, Palazzo Castelletti in Rabat and Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar, all of which are open to the public.

Mosta Church It is an iconic part of the local skyline and is visible from miles around. Many believe it’s a miracle that this impressive church is still around today. During World War II, a bomb pierced its roof during a religious service, but unbelievably, never exploded. There were no casualties, and you can now view a replica of the bomb behind the church’s sacristy, under the caption Il-Miraklu tal-Bomba (The Bomb Miracle), April 9, 1942.

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you look around, see whether you can spot the odd one out – an English Neo-Gothic house among the baroque architecture, which drew criticism when built in the early 20th century for the stark difference in style to the other buildings in the area. From here, finish your tour by looking out at the beautiful far-reaching views of Malta from the bastions.

As you leave, don’t miss the hole-in-the-wall roadside café in the neighbouring ancient town of Rabat which goes by the name of Crystal Palace, but which locals refer to as is-Serkin (see p21).

Here, you’ll find local delicacy pastizzi with a traditional cheese or pea filling.

As you explore Rabat, don’t simply take it at face value.

Beneath the streets of this quiet town runs an underground maze of catacombs – the catacombs of St Paul and St Agatha – which date back to the early days of Christianity. Close by, beneath the chapel of St Catald lie the St Catald Catacombs – a small but beautiful underground burial ground used by the rich and noble families of the time (Open 10am3pm daily. Admission suggested donation).

Want to give your feet a break?

A trackless train tour of Rabat, Mdina and Mtarfa takes a scenic route through the picturesque surrounding countryside.

viewingmalta.com/Mario Galea

Mdina & Around

Museum of Natural History. See p123.

exceptional array of paintings, an extremely rare French ten-hour watch, valuable manuscripts, jewellery, Oriental rugs, an armoury, models of galleys and other artefacts. Multi-lingual audio guides are provided for free upon admission, and kids are entertained with activity sheets.

A maintenance programme of the rooms within the historic house has recently drawn to an end, with all display rooms now refurbished and open to the public. Apart from its permanent collection, the museum also holds temporary exhibitions, as well as lectures and workshops.

Villegaignon Street, Mdina (2145 4512, www.palazzofalson.com).

Open 10am-5pm (last entry 4pm) Tue-Sun. Admission €10; €5 reductions; free 6-12s with paying adult; children under 6 not admitted.

Places of interest Bastion Square A walk down Mdina’s beautiful Villegaignon Street will take you to the heart of the silent city. The street ends behind the ramparts of the fortifications, at Bastion Square. With handsome baroque buildings on one side and magnificent panoramic views of Malta extending to Valletta and St Paul’s Bay on the other, you won’t know where to look!

The Mdina Experience Learn about the history of the island’s old capital with a multilingual audio-visual introduction at the Mdina Experience. Available in 12 languages, it provides a gripping

background to the charming silent city. There are special prices on block tickets when visiting in conjunction with the ‘Knights of Malta’ and ‘Medieval Times’ attractions, with the former, located in Magazine Street, providing an interesting commentary in 13 languages on life during the reign of the Knights of St John in Malta.

7 Mesquita Square, Mdina (2145 4322, www.themdinaexperience.com).

Open 10am-4.30pm daily. Admission €6; €3 children; under-5s free.

Palazzo Parisio & Gardens Dating back to the 1730s, Palazzo Parisio was built by Grand Master Manuel de Vilhena and further embellished by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna in 1898. Privately owned and family-run, it has been referred to as a ‘miniature Versailles’, and boasts magnificent baroque style gardens featuring exotic plants, over 65 species of hibiscus and an orange grove, in which you can enjoy an elegant afternoon tea.

Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com).

Open 9am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm) daily. Admission €12; €10 reductions; €5 under-15s.

San Anton Gardens The beautiful gardens surrounding Grand Master Antoine de Paule’s summer residence, San Anton Palace, make for a delightful backdrop for a walk when the weather is mild. The palace has served as the residence of the President of Malta ever since 1974, when Malta became a republic. The gardens are a treat for nature lovers, boasting signposted mature trees, old stone urns, fountains, ponds, eye-

124 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

catching flowerbeds and a number of animals. The recently restored Kitchen Garden (Open July, Aug 9am-2pm, 6-10pm daily; Sept-June 9am-9pm daily), accessed from the back of the palace gardens, is also worth a visit, and features two coffee shops and play areas for kids.

San Anton Palace, Attard (2149 3170).

Open June-Oct 7am-8pm daily; Nov-May 7am-5pm daily. Admission free.

St Agatha’s Catacombs These extensive and well-preserved catacombs are typical of the underground cemeteries of the early days of Christianity. Visitors can choose to explore the numerous galleries and different graves at their own pace or take a guided tour to experience everything from the crypt featuring an altar carved out of rock to some of the oldest frescoes on the island – Byzantine frescoes of the Madonna, St Agatha and St Paul.

You can buy your tickets online.

Opening hours may be extended during the summer months.

St Agatha’s Lane, Rabat (2145 4419, www.stagathamalta.com). Open 10am5pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Admission €5; €4 reductions; €2 under-12s.

St Paul’s Catacombs Used for Christian burials up until the 4th century, St Paul’s Catacombs make up the earliest and largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta. Burials within the city were prohibited

by Roman law at the time these catacombs were used, which explains their location on the outskirts of the old Roman capital, Mdina. Audio guides are available in English at no extra charge.

A series of restoration works,

landscaping and the setting up of an interpretation centre are currently underway, and are scheduled to be completed later this year.

St Agatha Street, Rabat (2145 4562, www.heritagemalta.org). Open 9am5pm daily. Admission €4; €1.50€2.50 reductions; free under-5s.

Villa Bologna A stunning villa dating back to the 18th century, Villa Bologna boasts baroque and neoclassical features, and beautiful sprawling gardens featuring recently restored fountains and wonderful examples of indigenous Maltese flora, as well as exotic plants and trees. Take in the surroundings on a shady stone bench before heading to the pretty gift shop for a selection of locally made souvenirs including hand-painted ceramic items.

Painting lessons and workshops for both kids and adults are also organised here from time to time.

30 San Anton Street, Attard (2141 7973, www.villabologna.com). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Admission €6; reductions €4; free under-12s.

The Wignacourt Complex The Wignacourt Complex is made up of four important sites, namely St Paul’s Grotto, the catacombs, World War II shelters and the Wignacourt Museum, with a long history stretching from the Punic era to modern times. Perhaps the most significant is St Paul’s Grotto, which is believed to be where St Paul lived during the three months he spent on the island. Within the underground section of the Wignacourt Complex, there’s also an intricate maze of catacombs dating to Punic and Roman times.

The museum features paintings by Maltese and other European artists from the 16th century up until the late 18th century, including Mattia Preti, Francesco Zahra and Antoine Favray, as well as a collection of silver and other artefacts.

Parish Square, College Street, Rabat (2749 4905, www. wignacourtmuseum.com). Open 9.30am-5pm daily. Admission €5; €3.50 reductions; free under-7s.

Where to eat A stroll through the quaint streets of Mdina and Rabat will have you stumbling across some hidden gems. Whether you’re after fine dining, a romantic spot, café culture or a taste of local fare you’re sure to find it here.

Cafés Flora’s The recently-opened Flora’s café in Naxxar is already proving popular, offering a daily changing selection of home-made cupcakes, cakes and muffins, as well as the freshest scones you’ll find on the

Mdina & Around

Flora’s. See p124.

island, served with jam and clotted cream, which are made to order.

Savouries here include salads, home-made pies and sandwiches made from fresh seasonal produce.

Afternoon tea is served from 4pm every day. Don’t miss the delicious milkshakes, which are served in pretty vintage milk bottles.

1 Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 0020, www.florascafe.com). Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat; 4-8pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Fontanella Tea Garden Fontanella is an enduring favourite among locals and tourists alike, both for its beautiful views over the bastions and its cakes, particularly its famous chocolate cake. The café also offers a selection of baguettes, pastizzi (cheese and pea cakes) and pizza, washed down with fresh fruit smoothies in summer or a tasty hot chocolate in the colder months.

1 Bastion Square, Mdina (2145 0208, www.fontanellateagarden. com). Open 10am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Jalie’s Coffee, Cakes & Bakes This delightful little café is tucked away in a quaint alley behind the Attard parish church, and serves traditional high tea as well as a varied menu including platters to share, soups, sandwiches, wraps, pasta, burgers, cakes and other desserts. The open-air

terrace upstairs is an ideal place to relax in the warmer months, either with a glass of wine or one of the weekly special chilled drinks. Booking is advisable.

Tommaso Dingli Street, Attard (2143 4590). Open 10am-11pm Tue-Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Molly’s Café Open for just over a year, the family-run Molly’s Café serves hearty home-made food reminiscent of its namesake, nanna (grandma) Molly. The varied menu includes breakfast, hot dogs, burgers, baguettes, wraps, toasties, smoothies and a variety of desserts, but pancakes, milkshakes and cake are the specialities. We recommend the delicious Oreo cake if it’s available on your visit, washed down with your favourite milkshake.

Constitution Street, Mosta (2730 0849, www.mollysartcafe.com). Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 3.30pm-9pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Xpresso Café & Bistro A few metres away from the impressive Mdina Cathedral you’ll find Palazzo de Piro – a magnificent 18th-century palazzo that has been meticulously restored to create a unique venue of cross-cultural, artistic and social dialogue. Its popular café and bistro is led by the highly

126 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

regarded chef de cuisine at de Mondion restaurant (see right), Kevin Bonello, and offers high standards and healthy meals, along with amazing sweets and coffees. Take a seat in the pretty open-air courtyard with panoramic views over Malta in the summer months.

3 Bastion Street, Mdina (2010 0560, www.palazzodepiro.com).

Open July-Oct 10am-11pm daily; Nov-June 10am-5pm daily. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. French Bacchus Offering a tempting menu of French-inspired, creative fusion dishes, Bacchus’ home-style cooking is beautifully presented and delicious to boot. Start off your meal with the tasty octopus carpaccio with apple and radish salad and apple jelly, followed by a divine slow-cooked local pork belly with smoked mussels and a raisin and maple syrup purée.

Leave room for dessert though, as the white chocolate cheesecake with strawberry sorbet is fantastic.

Get cosy in the impressive vaulted interior in winter, but when it gets warmer, we suggest the terrace, which enjoys gorgeous views.

1 Inguanez Street, Mdina (2145 4981, www.bacchus.com.mt). Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses €16.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

De Mondion Restaurant Widely considered as one of the top restaurants on the island, de Mondion offers excellent service, food quality and presentation, and an extensive wine list. The menu, designed by chef de cuisine Kevin Bonello and his award-winning team, is revised seasonally and provides some tantalising options, such as local snail ragù-filled pasta pillows, wild mushroom and brioche charlotte, and delicious roasted Charolais beef tenderloin. The terrace enjoys a gorgeous view.

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux, Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.demondion.com). Open 7.3010.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €30€40. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Maltese Diar il-Bniet Recently opened in the rural village of Dingli, Diar il-Bniet is a Maltese agritourism experience based around a family-run farm shop and restaurant. Fresh produce from the family’s farm, located in a valley just 200m away, is used to make wonderful fruit jams, wines and oils that you can buy in the shop.

Likewise, the traditional dishes served in the restaurant are made using the farm’s produce, ensuring that the ingredients are fresh. The recipes here have been passed down from generation to generation.

Ta’ Marija If it’s local cuisine you’re after, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for at this family-run eatery.

Among the delicious local fare there’s a variety of ravioli dishes, including an exquisite new addition of rabbit ravioli with sage, butter and walnuts. For your main, try the slow-cooked pork cheeks with porcini mushroom and Marsala jus, and finish with Ta’ Marija’s ricotta cake with dates, biscuits and walnuts, and topped with carob syrup. Extensive carvery buffets are served on Saturday evening and for Sunday lunch, while folklore dinner shows are organised every Wednesday and Friday.

Constitution Street, Mosta (2143 4444, www.tamarija.com). Open noon-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm daily.

Main courses €18.50-€29.50.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mediterranean

San Andrea Restaurant This restaurant offers a menu of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with French influences, crafted using fresh local produce.

The high level of service, quality of the food and the ambience of this historical palazzo make it a must visit. Popular options include local king prawns baked en papillote, gnocchi sardi, as well as Barbary duck breast. The home-made desserts, particularly the Baileys crème brûlée and the warm dark chocolate fondant are equally tempting.

Palazzo Castelletti, 62 St Paul Street, Rabat (2145 2562, www. palazzocastelletti.com). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €18.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Village Gourmet

A delightful new gourmet shop

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ituated in the picturesque village of Dingli, newly opened Diar il-Bniet is a family-run farm shop and restaurant that has remained true to the traditional values of its ancestral roots, using honest to goodness home-grown fare to create favourite local dishes. Sample some of the famously delicious local products within dishes such as baked macaroni, beef olives and a variety of tasty pies in the restaurant portion of the shop, with a seasonal menu that offers traditional Maltese delicacies according to the time of the year. The adjoining shop stocks fresh vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers as well as a variety of other food items and preserves you can take home with you.

Main Street, Dingli (2762 0727, www.diarilbniet.com). Open 10am-11pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sat; 10am-4pm Sun. Main courses €15-€18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. pening its doors last February, this specialty grocery store located within the lively Mosta square, right opposite the impressive Mosta Church (see p123), offers an interesting array of specialty products displayed in a fun and original way. Try the infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar on tap – you can even re-use the bottle, as a re-filling option is on offer. Other products you’ll find on the shelves here are a variety of chocolate, gluten-free and organic products, coffee beans, a selection of local and foreign wines, gifts and bakeware, as well as locally produced items like jam and honey, which will make the perfect souvenirs to take home with you.

Rotunda Square, Mosta (2713 3689). Open 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-noon Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Ryan Galea

Da Luigi A stone’s throw away from Mdina, this family-run eatery offers superb Mediterranean cuisine, as well as an extensive wine list featuring wines from different continents. It is run by Louis, a third generation baker, whose drive and passion for cooking shows through in the revival of traditional recipes using the best local ingredients. Da Luigi is also open for lunch by reservation only between Tuesday and Friday.

Gilormu Dingli Street, Rabat (2145 0123). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sun; also noon-3.30pm Sun. Main courses €17.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

occasion. The enticing menu offers mouth-watering options, including chicken and duck liver parfait, enhanced with a blood orange and Syrah reduction, pear chutney and toasted brioche to start, leading on to a tasty main course of crispy duck breast and leg rillette, set on a lightly spiced lentil ragù and mango and fennel chutney. Tasty local options are also available in the Flavours of Malta section of the menu.

7 Holy Cross Street, Mdina (2145 4004, www.medinarestaurantmalta. com). Open 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €15-€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Luna Restaurant The chic Luna Restaurant within the splendid 18th-century Palazzo Parisio (see p124) offers both indoor and outdoor dining.

Renowned for traditional English afternoon tea, it’s also a perfect spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a largely Italian menu also comprising a number of local choices. Recommended dishes here include a great selection of home-made pasta and seasonal risotto. We also suggest leaving some room for the chocolate layer cake, if you’ve got a sweet tooth.

Palazzo Parisio & Gardens, Victory Square, Naxxar (2141 2461, www.palazzoparisio.com). Open 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; also 7.3010.30pm Wed-Sat. Main courses €21. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Medina Housed within a restored medieval house, this cosy eatery is perfect for a romantic dinner date or special

Diar Il-Bniet. See p126.

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Mdina & Around

Favourites include rabbit cooked in garlic, beef stew prepared the traditional way and stuffed pork.

Main Street, Dingli (2762 0727, www. diarilbniet.com). Open 10am-11pm MonSat; 10am-4pm Sun. Main courses €15€18. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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A day in the area

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Yue Bistro by Munchies Whether it’s a light snack or tasty meal you’re after, this newly opened restaurant in Naxxar serves a great menu featuring excellent pizzas, pasta dishes, grills and wraps. Quality, good value for money and excellent service are given top priority here. There’s also ample free parking available.

Labour Avenue, Naxxar (2258 9888, www.yuebistro.com). Open 9.30am10.30pm Sun-Thur; 9.30am-11pm Fri, Sat. Main courses €15-€20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Oriental Rickshaw Rickshaw is one of the longeststanding oriental restaurants on the island, and has even been extended to other Corinthia hotels such as those in Prague and Budapest. You can easily see why when you peruse the menu, which features dishes from across the Far East such as fried soft shell crab with amazu ponzu dressing, Vietnamese spring rolls with rice noodles, vegetables, mint and coriander in a rice wrapper, slow- cooked duck in Chinese beer, sizzling dishes, Thai green curry with baby aubergines and onions, and steamed lobster with Ma Po sauce, silken tofu and spring onions.

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144

0301). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €14.50-€30. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink Head to one of the watering holes of the area for a tipple when the sightseeing gets too much. Most are housed within old townhouses and provide a charming experience all of their own.

Don Mesquita This quaint, little wine bar is the perfect place to relax while enjoying a great selection of well-priced food within a rustic setting. The favourite here is the Maltese platter, comprising sun-dried tomatoes, stuffed olives, Maltese sausages, bigilla (bean paste) and goats’ cheese. Tuck in while viewing the new picture gallery, featuring paintings and photographs of typical Maltese scenes by local artist Diane Agius.

Don Mesquita is open in the evenings only by reservation.

5A Mesquita Square, Mdina (2702 6640). Open 10am-3pm Mon-Sat; evenings upon reservation. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Cardona Wine Bar Situated in the heart of Qormi – a village famous for the tastiest traditional Maltese bread – Ta’

Mario Galea

Luna Restaurant. See p127.

efore you even begin exploring Mdina and its surroundings, get a little energy boost at hole-in-the-wall café, Crystal Palace (see p21), near the Domus Romana (see p123). The perfect breakfast is made up of a couple of delicious pastizzi (a local speciality made from crisp filo pastry and a mixture of either peas or ricotta cheese) accompanied by a steaming te fit-tazza (tea served in a glass).

You can take your pastizzi with you and begin your tour by exploring the gardens beneath the old capital city’s ramparts. Once through the gates, don’t miss out on the top places of interest, including Palazzo Falson (see p123), an interesting museum and historic home, as well as the Carmelite Church and Priory (see p123), and the Cathedral with its adjacent museum (see p123).

Once you’ve experienced the best of what the medieval city has to offer, head over to the neighbouring town of Rabat for a visit to the Wignacourt Complex (see p124) and the underground burial chambers of St Paul’s Catacombs (see p124), but don’t be afraid to do away with the map and wander around on your own – the town’s narrow streets are replete with charming houses and beautiful chapels and churches that are waiting to be discovered.

The main road out of Rabat will take you to the delightful ‘three villages’ of Balzan, Lija and Attard, which are equally charming to visit. Don’t miss a stroll through San Anton Gardens (see p124 and pictured below), the President’s Kitchen Garden and Villa Bologna (see p124) when in the area. The village of Naxxar is also worthy of a mention, particularly for its pretty village core and stunning Palazzo Parisio and Gardens. Finally, a tour of the area would not be complete without stopping at Mosta for a bite to eat and a glimpse at the third largest dome in Europe – the Mosta Church (see p123).

You can also choose an entirely different route to make the most of the island’s countryside – though this might be a little hot to handle in the summer months. The area around Mdina boasts lush and scenic countryside, with excellent walking routes starting at Dingli Cliffs (pictured above), Ghar il-Kbir, the cart ruts at Clapham Junction, Mtahleb, Kuncizzjoni, Bahrija or Buskett Gardens.

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Mdina & Around

TOURS AND DETOURS

WINE DOWN

Nightlife

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Mdina & Around

Club Numero Uno Cardona Wine Bar offers over 75 The best summer nights in different types of local and Malta are had under international wines, the stars, and this accompanied popular open-air by a menu hotspot is comprising Meridiana Wine Estate, always a a variety of which lies scenically below winner. genuine and Mdina, produces a variety of Hosting freshly local chardonnay, cabernet local DJs made sauvignon, merlot and syrah spinning platters, wines. Organise a tour starting everything open ftajjar with a visit to the fermentation from house (flattened hall and underground cellar, music to bread), dips, and get a taste of local premium commercial wraps, salads wines on the panoramic terraces house and and more. overlooking the vineyard. Visit R&B, it’s The ambience www.meridiana.com.mt a recipe for within the summer weekend 18th-century magic. There’s also building in which it is chill-out music in a separate housed is warm and relaxing, area if you’re feeling mellow. making it ideal for a quiet Ta’ Qali Crafts Village, Rabat (2141 evening with family or friends.

5241, www.clubnumerouno.com).

Booking is recommended.

Open June-Sept 11pm-4am Fri, Sat. Main Street, Qormi (2144 3306, www.

Admission starting from €5. tacardonawinebar.com). Open 8pmmidnight Wed, Thur; 8pm-1am Fri, Gianpula Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Gianpula is the largest openair complex on the island and has been going strong for over 30 years. The most recent additions to this impressive The area features a number of venue include a rooftop club, popular trendy open-air venues for merchandise store and a new partying under the stars till long club, Phoenix, which opened after dark – perfect for those hot its doors last summer. Hosting summer nights. You’ll need to book international heavyweights like yourself a taxi though, as public Avici, Faithless and Tiesto, the transport is limited.

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choice of music here changes depending on the crowd and event, with everything from R&B and commercial to house music spun by local and top international DJs. Rabat (9947 2133, www.gianpula com). Open 9.30pm-4am WedSun. Admission €6-€15.

Where to stay If you’re looking for a peaceful base for your visit to Malta, tranquil Mdina and its surroundings are hard to beat – away from the hustle and bustle but still well connected so you can explore the islands to your heart’s content.

Expensive Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa A truly luxurious place to stay within the charming village of Attard, the Corinthia Palace Hotel and Spa offers great facilities including a top spa, large swimming pool, tennis courts, landscaped gardens and the highly recommended Far Eastern Rickshaw Restaurant (see p129). The hotel is a short stroll away from the picturesque San Anton Palace and Gardens (see p124), and guests benefit from free transport to other areas of the island including Valletta, Sliema and St Julian’s.

De Paule Avenue, Attard (2144 0301, www.corinthia.com/ palace). Rates (incl breakfast) €130 single; €145 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux Once home to the noble Moscati Parisio family, this 17thcentury palazzo now makes for an exquisite, elegant hotel.

The sophisticated rooms are decorated with some truly stunning antique pieces, with most enjoying beautiful views of the lush countryside beneath majestic Mdina.

Council Square, Mdina (2145 0560, www.xarapalace.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €150-€450 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Cheap Point De Vue Guesthouse Situated some 100m outside Mdina, with breath-taking views of the surrounding countryside, this charming guesthouse offers value for money, with 12 comfortable rooms equipped with ensuite facilities and an excellent in-house restaurant. Half-board options are also available.

2/7 Saqqajja Square, Rabat (2145 4117, www.pointdevue-mdina.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €60 single; €90 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux

viewingmalta.com/Clive Vella

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay

Bugibba, Mellieha & Around Overview and sightseeing Where to eat Where to drink Arts and entertainment Where to stay

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Bugibba & Around

Bugibba, Mellieha & Around

A natural beauty

The north is among the most picturesque parts of Malta, renowned predominantly for its stunning beaches, undisturbed countryside and impressive selection of places to wine and dine.

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ne of the busiest towns in this area, Bugibba is diverse in its offering and especially packed with activity during the summer months. Expect bars and pubs, numerous eateries and some nightlife for good measure, as well as picturesque coastal walks and various swimming spots.

Adjacent to it is the smaller town of Qawra. Its scenic promenade has recently been given a new lease of life and is home to the country’s first National Aquarium – an eyecatching star-shaped building that houses a remarkable collection of fish, ranging from species found in local waters to sharks, sting rays, eels and several other stunning sea creatures. The aquarium is also home to the hip Café del Mar (see p141), a landscaped belvedere, a merchandise outlet, a play area for children and catering facilities (Trunciera Street, 2258 8100, www.aquarium.com.mt. Open 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun.) While Qawra is known for its nightlife and entertainment spots, it also harbours the

peaceful Salini National Park (Qawra Street, 2157 5258) with plenty of room for children to run around and play.

Not too far from here is Splash & Fun Water Park, which attracts kids and adults in droves during the summer months (Coast Road, Bahar Ic-Caghaq, 2137 4283, www.splashandfun.com. mt. Open mid May-mid June, Sept-mid Oct 9.30am-6pm daily; mid June-Aug 9am9pm daily – opening periods may vary depending on the weather).

Continue heading further north for some quieter, more slow-paced areas, where you’re likely to notice a change in landscape characterised by stretches of golden sand, splendid countryside views and some of the island’s top diving sites.

Bugibba merges with its more tranquil neighbour St Paul’s Bay, once a sleepy fishing village, which has retained some characteristics of times gone by, such as its quaint townhouses and colourful fishing boats bobbing in the bay.

The Wignacourt Tower (St Gerard Street, 2121

The landscape is characterised by stretches of golden sand

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Enjoy a taste of what nature has to offer with a visit to a nature trail in the area, including the Foresta 2000 and the Ghadira Nature Reserve in Mellieha, the Bird Park and the Salini National Park in Salina, the Majjistral Nature and History Park at the limits of Ghajn Tuffieha and Is-Simar Nature Reserve in Xemxija. Log on to www.visitmalta.com for more information.

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WONDERFUL NATURE

Paradise Bay

5222. Open 10am1pm Mon-Sat, first Sun of the month) is the oldest surviving coastal defence post in Malta, built in 1610 by Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt.

Restoration works on the tower began last year and while the newly restored tower was inaugurated in April, it is still not ready to receive visitors due to pending safety and ancillary works which are expected to be completed this year.

Stand outside the tower and admire the spectacular view of the uninhabited St Paul’s islands across the water. It is said that St Paul, patron saint of Malta who converted the islands to Christianity, was shipwrecked on the islands in 60 AD. A statue of the saint that stands around 4m high allegedly near the spot where the saint was shipwrecked, was inaugurated in 1845 and still dominates the islands today. You can visit the islands by boat on an organised trip.

A stone’s throw away from the Wignacourt Tower is the Chapel of St Paul’s Shipwreck.

It is believed that upon his shipwreck St Paul made his way to the exact spot where the chapel stands today. The original chapel was destroyed in World War II. The chapel was rebuilt in the 1950s (Open 5-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 5-6pm Sat; 9am-noon Sun).

Your next destination should be Mellieha, although it is definitely worth stopping at Mistra Bay on the way there or back, ideal for a quiet country walk in winter or a quick dip during the

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Bugibba & Around

summer months. You could opt for another detour and head towards Selmun Palace, which watches imposingly over Mistra Bay, to take in the beauty of this majestic architectural gem. Built in the 18th century, it served as a hunting and recreational lodge for the Knights of Malta. Just a short walk or drive away is the tiny and secluded Selmun Bay, known to locals as Imgiebah which, if you manage to locate, is truly a spot of paradise.

Halfway down the winding main road which takes you to Mellieha Bay is Popeye Village, originally a film set for the 1980 musical production ‘Popeye’. It has since remained a major attraction filled with lopsided huts and rickety bridges for kids to play in and enjoy, and hosts a range of activities for the young and young at heart (Anchor Bay, 2152 4782/3/4, www.popeyemalta.com. Film set Open July, Aug 9.30am-7pm; Sept, Oct, Mar-June 9.30am-5.30pm; Nov-Feb 9.30am-4.30pm daily).

Mellieha is recognised as a European Destination of Excellence, largely because of its rich history, natural beauty and endless list of facilities, including a variety of lodging options and water sports. In fact, the locality features vast areas of natural habitats and eco-trails ideal for walking and cycling, besides beautiful beaches.

Perched on the top of a

Mellieha

hill north-west of the island, overlooking the clear blue waters of Mellieha Bay, also known as Ghadira Bay, this village dates back to medieval times, when pilgrims flocked to visit the miraculous statue of the Madonna in the underground rock-cut chapel, the Grotto of Our Lady (Gorg Borg Olivier Street. Open June-Sept 8am-7pm daily; Oct-May 8am-6pm daily). This tranquil chapel has no adornments, apart from the old revered statue of the Madonna.

Pilgrims would lodge at the Sanctuary, a convent-like building set around a charming courtyard dominated by the Church of Our Lady of Mellieha. The church that stands today dates back to the 17th century and is well worth a visit to see the fantastic mosaic of the Madonna.

Down in Mellieha Bay, a bird sanctuary, a fresh water haven for migrating birds, offers birdwatching facilities, together with guided tours around the entire complex.

Just across from Mellieha Bay, standing on a high ridge with views of Gozo, Comino and the Ghadira Nature Reserve, is the impressive Red Tower dedicated to St Agatha.

It was built in 1649 and completed during the rule of Grand Master Jean Paul Lascaris Castellar, and has retained its original red colour even after it was restored (Open

mid Sept-mid June 10am-4pm daily; mid June-mid Sept 10am1pm, 3-6pm daily.)

Where to eat The north of the island is brimming with places to eat, most specialising in Mediterranean fare and fresh fish.

AMERICAN Hungry Cow This American-style diner is not your average fast food chain and is a must for meat lovers. It serves quesadillas, salads, ribs and wraps, although its crowd-pullers are the succulent burgers, followed closely by the wonderfully tasty hot dogs. The winning formula is the home-made patty made using a recipe that’s been handed down through generations. Look out for the monthly special burger.

Hungry Cow has recently launched an American-style breakfast menu with equally tantalising items, and for an indulgent beverage, head over to Thirsty Cow nearby (St Simon Street) for a mindboggling range of hot chocolates, shakes, waffles and sweet treats.

Pioneer Road, Bugibba (2755 6625).

Open May-Oct 9am-4am daily; Nov-Apr 9am-midnight daily. Main courses €9. No credit cards.

Cafés Debbie’s Café Food lovers would be pleased to stumble upon this little gem in Mellieha, which resembles an English tea room with its pale blue walls and white décor. You’ll find delicious American-style sweets such as pancake stacks with a variety of toppings, as well as typical English treats such as scones with home-made jam and clotted cream, and English breakfast.

The Cuban gourmet sandwich remains especially popular, as do the freshly baked cakes and cupcakes, lovingly prepared by owner Rebecca Borg St John.

Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2765 4101). Open 9am-7pm Tue-Sat; 9am-2pm Sun; also 9am7pm Mon May-Sept. Credit V. Mediterranean The Arches The Arches continues to be regarded as one of the best finedining eateries on the island. Those with a curious palate will have a ball here – try the risotto with salt-baked potatoes, local prawns and guanciale (cheeks) for starters, followed by hay-smoked lamb with mushroom deuxelles and aubergine for main, although if you love your food you’ll struggle to make a

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Baia Beach Club If you fancy distancing yourself from the rest of the world, a visit to Baia Beach Club is an absolute must. Located along beautiful Armier Bay, Baia encompasses all the great aspects of a seaside resort.

Designed around a blue and white theme, it includes a beach club with beachside service, a cocktail bar, luxury beach furniture (at a price) as well as a restaurant, operated by a team of Italian chefs who excel in fresh wild fish dishes.

The fish can be cleaned at your table upon request and the choice of fish changes according to the fisherman’s daily catch. New on the lido menu this year is a range of tasty piadine, Italian flatbread heated on a grill. Head to the beach club on Saturday mornings for yoga classes using stand up paddle boards, or visit an on-site beautician for massages and other beauty treatments, by appointment.

Be sure to book ahead. Check out the website to benefit from discounted packages on weekdays.

Little Armier, l/o Mellieha (2157 0942, www.baiabeachclub.com).

Open (hours change monthly – refer to website). Main courses €20-€28.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Bouquet Garni Chefs and brothers Darren and Wayne prepare delectable dishes in this small family-run restaurant in the heart of Mellieha village.

The elegant wood décor and welcoming atmosphere serve as a great backdrop for a delicious meal.

We recommend you take your pick from the ever-changing and varied specialities board, although the regular plates are a definite hit too, such as the fresh fish platter, prime rib and the popular pavlova with berry compôte and Chantilly cream.

4 Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2152 2234). Open 6.30-10.15pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €17-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Commando Restaurant Commando Restaurant is a welcoming, family-run eatery within the quaint open space leading to the imposing 17thcentury Church of Our Lady of Mellieha. Talented chef Damian Ciappara is renowned for his simple yet refined tasty dishes.

Dig into the chicken liver pâté with toasted brioche and local grape jam, or one of the legendary rustic pasta dishes, followed by roasted cutlet of milk-fed veal or a

Lawrence Bonnici

Bugibba & Around

choice. For dessert, we recommend the seven veils gâteau with marzipan sorbet – unforgettable.

The venue calls for smart attire, and be sure to book ahead.

113 Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2152 0533, www. thearchesmalta.com). Open 7-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses €25-€32.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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plate of uber-fresh fish or seafood.

A permanent much-loved resident on the menu is the hot chocolate fondant, served with ice-cream.

Iz-Zjara tal Papa Gwanni Pawlu II – 26 ta’ Mejju 1990 Square, Mellieha (2152 3459, www. commandorestaurant.com). Open May-Sept 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun; Oct-Apr 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; noon3.30pm Sun. Main courses €18-€24.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Essence Overlooking gorgeous Golden Bay, this sophisticated restaurant offers five-star service and delectable food. Diners seeking a fantastic meal could start with the pan-fried local calamari with wilted kale, black olives and chorizo oil. Moving on to mains, the choice is limited to a handful of dishes, but each dish comprises a completely different food offering to the other and is prepared with precision – we highly recommend the panfried duck breast served with spiced walnuts, pomegranate sauce and roasted pear. Top it off with one of the refined desserts.

Ask at the hotel reception desk for opening times in winter.

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands, Golden Bay, Mellieha (2356 1000). Open May-Oct 7-10pm Tue-Sat (times may vary).

Main courses €19.50-€26.50.

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Giuseppi’s Restaurant You’re guaranteed a top-notch meal at this eatery run by talented and self-taught chef Michael Diacono who for years has been delivering an ever-changing menu filled with original dishes, many of which vary according to season. Some have remained unchanged by popular demand however, such as the arancini with squid ink, the linguini with sea urchins and the quail stuffed with mushrooms and foie gras. Finish off your meal with a delicious serving of imqaret (date-filled pastries), and you’re in for an unforgettable evening.

Main Street, Mellieha (2157 4882, www.giuseppismalta.com). Open 7.3010.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses €18€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Il-Mithna Housed within a quaint 17thcentury converted windmill, Il-Mithna (meaning ‘the windmill’ relies on simple cooking using fresh ingredients to offer a traditional menu with a somewhat international, modern twist. The menu changes depending on what’s in season, but we do recommend some of the resident dishes such as the lobster ravioli and slowroasted, marinated local pork belly covered in honey, paprika, lemon juice and red wine. While dining you can also marvel over original paintings by Joseph Cremona, which are available to buy.

Café del Mar. See p141.

platters, namely Maltese, Chinese or French cheeses. Check out their Facebook page for updates on live gigs and other events, and it is advisable to book ahead.

Xemxija Hill, Xemxija (2157 9852). Open July-Sept 7-11pm Tue-Sun; Oct-June 7-11pm WedSun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

58 Main Street, Mellieha (2152 0404, www.mithna.com). Open 6-10.30pm daily. Main courses €18.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. L’Artista We have always left this restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Maltese fare with Sardinian panache, as very happy customers. The food, prepared by chef patron Emanuele, is deliciously fresh, cooked with expertise and served with a smile, making this family-friendly eatery a firm favourite among its repeat clients. The constantly changing menu is split into two categories: fisherman’s choice and farmer’s choice, offering, among others, fresh fish and roasted suckling pig, as well as fresh pasta dishes and options for the little ones. The best part? It’s reasonably priced... and excellent.

1 Gandoffli Street, Bugibba, (9995 4947). Open June-Sept 7.30-11pm daily; Oct-May 7.30-11pm Wed-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses €15-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Paulus Restaurant Fish lovers need look no further.

Paulus delivers dishes with nothing but the freshest catches from the sea, prepared with seasonal ingredients and flair. Look out for the Cioppino, a Tuscan version of the Maltese traditional fish soup, delicious fried calamari tossed in fresh parsley and garlic oil, and the chef’s creative take on the fresh fish of the day. Meat lovers won’t miss out either, with a number of tasty dishes, such as the Angus rib-eye served with Café de Paris butter. This eatery is one to watch.

49 Bognor Street, Bugibba (7755 1102, www.paulusdining.com). Open Apr-Oct 6.30-10.30pm daily; also noon-3pm Fri-Sun; Nov-Mar 6-9pm Wed-Sun; also noon-3pm Fri-Sun. Main courses €17€26. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Ta’ Cassia Located a stone’s throw away from Qawra, Ta’ Cassia is one of a few restaurants in Salina that has held its own for years.

It is set within an old charming house of character and boasts a lush, mature and shaded garden at the back, especially enjoyable during the warmer months. For starters, we recommend the artichokes au gratin consisting of artichoke hearts, Parma ham, pine nuts and gorgonzola cheese, followed by a char-grilled sizzling rib-eye steak. Leave room for the home-made crème caramel which goes down a treat.

Catacombs Street, Salina (2157 1435, www.tacassia.com). Open June-Sept 7-11pm daily; Oct-May 7-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses €22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tarragon You’re guaranteed a unique dining experience at Tarragon – not only is its kitchen run by highly-respected chef Marvin Gauci, but you get to savour the experience of molecular gastronomy like nowhere else.

We’re absolutely taken by the house-smoked salmon (tuna is offered too when available) and whichever fresh fish is available on the day, although it’s really hard to pick merely one or two items off the menu. And you certainly cannot miss this remarkable dessert when available: a chocolate sphere filled with home-made cookie ice-cream accompanied by a ‘soup’ of hot chocolate that is poured onto the sphere to melt its crust and reveal its contents. Delicious fare and a dose of adventure – a double win!

Church Street, St Paul’s Bay (2157 3759, www.tarragonmalta.com). Open 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-May also noon-4pm Sun. Main courses €15-€27.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink There’s no better place to enjoy a refreshing drink or tasty cocktail with a stunning sea view than in this area. From golden oldies to newcomers, there’s a good choice of places to sip a drink or two.

Café del Mar With stunning views of St Paul’s islands and a chic yet laid-back feel, Café del Mar continues to be a popular hangout for many, especially during the summer months. Café del Mar, which forms part of the Malta National Aquarium complex (see p134), is all about fun, music and relaxation, with its enchanting infinity pool for daytime leisure and vibrant night-time entertainment area.

Head here on Sundays from 3pm onwards and enjoy live DJ sessions in a buzzing atmosphere. This spot truly encompasses the beauty of life in the Med – gorgeous sunsets, good music, a pool overlooking the sea, refreshing cocktails and flavoursome food.

Trunciera Street, Qawra, St Paul’s Bay (2258 8100, www.cafedelmar. com.mt). Open Apr-Oct 10ammidnight daily; Nov-Mar 10ammidnight Sat, Sun. Credit MC, V. The Fortress Wine & Dine This historic gun battery, located right opposite Xemxija Bay, has been transformed into a trendy wine bar that is sought-after for its relaxed atmosphere and beautiful setting. It is ideal for those cool summer nights, when you can relax on one of the comfy sofas or on the massive terrace, taking in stunning bay views.

There are around 200 wines to choose from, which you can enjoy while nibbling on a selection of

Ta’ Fra Ben Reggae Bar This little bar, adjacent to the Malta National Aquarium, is brimming with character, and is just the place you want to visit if you enjoy a reggae vibe. It is a unique chill-out spot and has been keeping good vibrations and iced cocktails flowing since 2010. The bar offers a small selection of food items and delicious cocktails (try the mojito), as well as free Wi-Fi and amazing sea views. Open jam nights are on every Thursday, drawing a range of musicians and reggae enthusiasts every week.

Islet Promenade, Qawra. Open MayNov 10am-2am daily; Dec-Apr 6-10pm daily (winter hours may vary depending on the weather). No credit cards.

Arts and entertainment If you’re after something other than a drink or a meal, head to the only cinema in the north for one of the latest films or to a well-established casino for a few rounds of fun.

CASINOS Oracle Casino Looking for a fun night out with spectacular sea views to boot?

Here you’ll find a range of gaming options including one cent slot machines, table games, sports betting and poker games. And if the gaming gets too much, head over to the Oracle Casino Bistro open daily for lunch from noon to 3pm (a two-course set menu is offered for just €5) and for dinner from 7pm till midnight. Enjoy a dinner buffet on Wednesday for €7 or a fabulous Sunday buffet lunch for €10. The town’s bus terminus is just two minutes away from the casino.

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Bugibba & Around

Baia Beach Club. See p138.

O’Reilly’s Gastro Pub If you’re in the area and looking for a casual venue with good food and cheap drinks, this is the place to visit. O’Reilly’s in Bugibba is renowned for its racy cocktails, its signature one being Panty Removal made with vodka, strawberry purée, pasoa, orange juice and peach syrup, as well as its American-style food. For the best of what’s on offer, opt for deepfried chicken strips or a combo to share if you’re really hungry.

O’Reilly’s shows most major live sport events on eight large screens.

Hallel Street, Bugibba (9924 0788).

Open 4pm-2am Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Islet Promenade, Qawra (2157 0057, www.oraclecasino.com). Open 9am-6am daily. Other locations The Casino, Portomaso (2138 3777).

Bugibba & Around

Film Empire Cinema Feel like watching a film on big screen? Head to Empire Cinema for a recent Hollywood hit or blockbuster film. Four of seven screens are equipped with Digital 2D and Digital 3D systems, and all screens boast the latest projection equipment and digital sound. Check out the website to find out what’s on.

Pioneer Road, Bugibba (2158 1787, www.empirecinema.com. mt). Screens 7. Tickets €6 (3D €8); €3.50 under-12s (3D €5).

Where to stay The peace and quiet that characterise most parts of this remarkable area in Malta certainly make it one of the most attractive places to stay for the duration of your holiday, and there’s a range of options to choose from.

Expensive Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands This is without a doubt one of the top five-star hotels in this area and on the island. With beautiful Golden Bay just a stone’s throw away and incredible sea views, this resort is one to look out for if you’re after a comfortable stay. It features a fully serviced private beach, four pools, a diving centre, free Wi-Fi and top-notch spa facilities.

There is no shortage of places to dine either – choose between fine dining at Essence (see p138), Mokka for coffees, Flavours for a fullyfledged buffet and other seasonal outlets open during the summer months. Indoors impresses too.

Golden Bay, l/o Mellieha (2356 1000, www.radissonblu.com/ goldensandsresort-malta). Rates (incl breakfast) €200-€450 single/double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Moderate db San Antonio Hotel + Spa The newly refurbished allinclusive db San Antonio Hotel + Spa, right at the heart of Qawra, has taken on an entirely new persona with its Moorish style design and décor. Comprising over 500 rooms and suites, a variety of bars, restaurants and outdoor pools overlooking picturesque St Paul’s Bay, as well as fitness facilities and an alluring spa, you’re pretty spoilt for choice at this hotel. Guests can indulge in different types of cuisines, including Mediterranean, Moroccan, Indian and Asian.

Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel, including all the rooms.

db San Antonio Hotel + Spa

Tourists Street, Qawra (2158 3434, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/ dbsanantonio). Rates (all inclusive) €90-€240 single; €95-€270 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Marfa Road, Mellieha (2289 1000, www.dbhotelsresorts.com/ dbseabank). Rates (all inclusive) €90-€240 single; €95-€270 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

db Seabank Resort + Spa Overlooking stunning Mellieha Bay, this resort has a lot going for it. It features a large pool, wellness spa, six themed restaurants, three bars and a range of sports and leisure facilities with fun-filled activities for both kids and adults.

The resort offers a great-value, allinclusive service, with an extensive variety of food for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner in a choice of restaurants, as well as unlimited beverages.

The rooms have a nautical touch with their blue and white décor, and all have a balcony with views of the sea, pool or countryside.

Free Wi-Fi is also available.

Dolmen Resort Hotel This family-friendly hotel enjoys spectacular views of the Mediterranean Sea and St Paul’s islands in a brilliant location. The Dolmen offers various facilities including water sports, a private beach lido, a club on the coast, a diving club, the popular Oracle Casino (see p141), a summer-only kids’ club, as well as a wellequipped spa that offers several treatments, a sauna, Jacuzzi, indoor pool and fitness centre. Choose from several dining options, ranging from abundant buffets to grills, as well as a variety of bars. Most rooms have a balcony overlooking the sea, complete

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with magnificent views and all are ensuite and air-conditioned.

Dolmen Street, Qawra (2355 2355, www.dolmen.com.mt).

Rates (incl breakfast) €120-€300 single; €140-€350 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Maritim Antonin Hotel & Spa Malta This four-star hotel offers stunning views of the town of Mellieha as well as a range of notable facilities such as a rooftop pool, plush spa, as well as free Wi-Fi. The rooms are elegant and decked with satellite TV and free coffee-making facilities. There’s no shortage of places to dine here – choose between Les Jardins, the hotel’s main restaurant, also open for Sunday lunch, Al Ponte Bistro and Pizzeria, The Arches for fine dining (see p137), and outdoor dining options between May and September.

Solana Hotel & Spa Located at the heart of Mellieha village, this hotel is within close proximity of numerous restaurants, a stone’s throw away from beautiful Mellieha Bay and surrounded by the quirks and charms typical of a seaside village. It has 100 spacious ensuite rooms, an indoor and outdoor pool, spa, rooftop deck complete with a hydro-massage

pool and bar, as well as a gym.

Guests can wine and dine in a choice of three eateries – Bellini restaurant for the daily buffet, Tosca Restaurant for à la carte Italian cuisine and Café Puccini for cocktails and home-made cakes.

Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2152 2211, www.solanahotel.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €85 single; €105 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

C R I T I C S ’ C HO I C E The best beaches

Cheap Soreda Hotel Relax by the two outdoor pools during the summer, take in the views from the rooftop bar, work out at the recently refurbished gym or enjoy the indoor pool in winter. Either way, this hotel promises great value in the heart of Qawra. Guests may dine at Bayleaf Restaurant which specialises in Mediterranean cuisine and enjoy free Wi-Fi which is available in all hotel rooms and public areas. Three types of accommodation are on offer – standard rooms, self-catering apartments and junior suites – all are neatly decorated. All-inclusive options are also available.

Andrew Cunningham Street, Qawra (2157 6267, www.soredahotelmalta. com). Rates (incl breakfast) €60 single; €85 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Ramla Bay Resort Situated on Malta’s northernmost shore, this resort offers wonderful views of Comino and Gozo. Its various and unique amenities include a private sandy beach, three pools, a spa, indoor pool, dive school and seasonal sports centre.

Guests can enjoy a relaxing stay here with a stroll through the landscaped gardens or a cocktail by the pool as the sun sets across the open sea. The resort offers a number of cuisine options as well as treatments at the Spa du Soleil.

Marfa, l/o Mellieha (2281 2281, www. ramlabayresort.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €95-€130 single; €130-€190 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Golden Bay (pictured above) This has got to be among the top three most popular beaches in Malta, characterised by golden sand, as its name implies, and equipped with a kiosk on one side of the bay as well as umbrella and deck-chair hire facilities. It could get crowded during the weekends especially, but is certainly worth a visit.

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Mellieha Bay (Ghadira) Mellieha Bay is the largest beach up north and enjoys Blue Flag status. It consists of three adjoining beaches with fine sand and shallow waters, making it a great option for those not too comfortable with swimming in the deep. There are a number of kiosks, cafés, dining and water sports options, as well as lifeguard services and a small first aid clinic.

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Riviera Bay (Ghajn Tuffieha) This idyllic beach, known to most locals as Ghajn Tuffieha, was recently awarded Blue Flag status, and is frequented a little less than its neighbour Golden Bay due to a steep flight of steps that may deter some with heavy bags or children. If you’re travelling light, however, it is a must, and you could even take a more adventurous route down to the beach through a network of footpaths, winding along the clay slopes.

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Paradise Bay This isolated bay, which also enjoys Blue Flag status, is almost at the northernmost tip of Malta, and is simply picture-perfect. The water is crystal-clear and the bay is characterised by both sand (largely) and rocks, making it suitable for all and sundry. The flight of steps leading to the bay is interrupted by a lido and restaurant – a delightful spot to enjoy a lunch break or a cocktail with a memorable view.

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Gnejna Bay Known for being significantly quieter than most other beaches in its vicinity, Gnejna Bay makes for a perfect spot for a peaceful dip in clear waters away from the crowds. A nearby kiosk is stocked with a variety of drinks, ice-creams and refreshments.

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Bugibba & Around

Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Mellieha (2289 2000, www.maritim.com. mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €60€135 single; €80-€160 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Slugs Bay (pictured right) This small bay off Marfa ridge is accessible via a winding, off-road path through cliff boulders. You must be prepared to sweat it out in order to find it, but it will be most definitely worth your while – quiet, secluded and simply beautiful.

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Malta Golden Sands. See p142.

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Most of the larger bays offer a variety of water sports, including jet-ski, canoe and paddle boat rental for a stipulated length of time, as well as water-skiing, paragliding and banana boat rides.

Prices for each sport vary from beach to beach, but expect to pay around €35 for 15 mins on a jet ski, and €10 for a paddle boat for two for one hour.

Blue Lagoon, Comino

Gozo & Comino Overview and sightseeing 148 Where to eat 154 Where to drink 158 Shopping 158 Nightlife 160 Arts and entertainment 160 Where to stay 160

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Gozo & Comino

Gozo & Comino

Ramla Bay

Just across the sea Twenty-five minutes by ferry from Malta, Gozo is a destination in its own right with a distinct history, culture and character all of its own.

T

he Maltese archipelago has a lot to offer. Malta is the main island and it is complemented by two other beautiful islands – Gozo and Comino – both of which deserve some space on your itinerary.

The ferry to Gozo crosses from Cirkewwa in the north of Malta (www.gozochannel.com) and the trip takes around 25mins.

Gozo is extremely popular, whether for a day trip, weekend break or even a longer stay. The Maltese flock there, eager to enjoy the more laid-back pace, the fantastic food and the array of activities on offer.

And it isn’t just the locals that love it; Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt recently honeymooned on Gozo before shooting their movie ‘By The Sea’ there too.

There’s so much to lure visitors to the island – easily more slowpaced, greener and more traditional than Malta, it’s also a hotspot of great food and culture.

There’s plenty to look forward to – ancient history, friendly smiles, beautiful beaches and authentic fare. It may only be 67sq km in size but there is no shortage of places and things to discover.

The ferry will drop you off at Mgarr Harbour,

and picturesque scenery will accompany you as you walk or drive up the main road to the rest of the island. Buses are the prime means of public transport in Gozo, but with wheels of your own and a good map you can wander through the quaint winding roads that link different villages, stopping to admire every feature that catches your attention. Alternatively, two hop-on, hop-off bus routes also provide a flexible way to get around.

Most roads in Gozo lead to the capital, Victoria, which was so named on the occasion of Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee. The city is still often referred to by its Semitic name, Rabat – but don’t let this confuse you (they are one and the same).

The heart of the capital is called it-Tokk, where market stalls sell everything from knitted jumpers and sunglasses to beach towels and traditional lace. As for a place to get away from it all, visit the capital’s beloved Villa Rundle Gardens, just a short distance away from the main square.

Originally planted under British rule in 1914, this spot fell into disrepair and has only recently been given the attention it deserves. For a dose of history, visit Il-Hagar Museum, which charts

A laid-back hotspot of great food and culture

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the island’s religious past.

However, that’s not all the capital has to offer.

Look upwards towards the ancient fortified Cittadella, with its magnificent 360-degree views of the island. Walk here to immerse yourself in history, with many of its narrow, winding streets hiding a museum or building of historical significance. While you are there, make a quick pit-stop at Ta’ Rikardu for a traditional lunch of fresh bread dipped in olive oil and served with sun-dried tomatoes and cheeselets.

Move on to the world-famous Neolithic temples of Ggantija, which are just a few minutes’ drive away from the capital on the outskirts of the charming village of Xaghra, and are believed to have been built around 3,600 BC. Just beyond is the Ta’ Kola Windmill, constructed in the 18th century during the reign of Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena.

The legendary Calypso’s Cave is also close by. The cave is sometimes off limits, but you can still enjoy the beautiful views of Ramla Bay below, with its deep red sand and turquoisecoloured waters.

There are a number of other attractions dotted around the island, such as Dwejra, famous for its sheer cliffs and the photogenic Azure Window. Its untamed beauty has made it the perfect setting for scenes in a number of epic films and TV productions such as ‘Troy’, starring Brad Pitt, and HBO’s ‘Game of Thrones’.

The sea around here is very popular with scuba divers. While in the area, walk down to the inland sea and hop onto a small boat for a short ride through the caves into the open sea, observing the enchanting Fungus Rock.

Gozo’s northern coast is home to the seaside resort of Marsalforn, buzzing with tourists and

Churches San Dimitri Chapel The opening times of this dinky chapel may be a tad erratic, but it’s worth trying to get a look inside all the same. Legend has it that a mother whose son was abducted by the Turks made a vow to St Demetrius that, should her son be returned to her, she would keep an oil lamp burning in the saint’s honour for the rest of her life.

Her son was duly brought back, and the woman kept her promise.

The oil lamp is even said to have kept burning once submerged in water following an earthquake!

Limits of Gharb

Grima. It is also home to some noteworthy artistic highlights, including the beautifully adorned wooden statue of the patron saint, St George, by Pietru Pawl Azzopardi, and two works of art by worldrenowned baroque painter, Mattia Preti. Look out for the canopy above the altar – it is a miniature replica of Bernini’s famous bronze original in St Peter’s Basilica, in the Vatican.

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 6377, www.stgeorge.org.mt). Open 5am-noon, 3-7.30pm daily. Admission free.

St George’s Basilica Considered to be one of the most beautiful and important churches anywhere on the Maltese islands, the aptly named Golden Basilica has the only solid bronze door in Gozo; it was made in 2004 by John

St Mary’s Cathedral This is one of the highlights to be found within the Citadel walls (see p153). Thought to have been built on the site where a Roman temple dedicated to Juno once stood, this cathedral was designed in 1697

Malta Event Design

Gozo & Comino

Maltese who settle here for a few days (or months) each year for a relaxing break by the sea. The promenade is dotted with bars and outdoor eateries, and most restaurants serve a wide selection of fresh fish.

The ferry will take you back to Malta in no time at all, but if you have some time to spare, stop at the Gleneagles Pub for a drink and take in the views of the harbour one last time, or walk along the promenade that skirts the picturesque harbour.

The ferry trip will provide a scenic view of Comino, the smallest of the three islands that make up the Maltese archipelago, inhabited by just four people. Highlights include the breath-taking Blue Lagoon and the largest coastal tower built by the Knights of St John. The lagoon is completely overrun by day-trippers during the summer months, but it’s well worth the journey anyway (www.visitmalta. com/en/ferries-and-water-taxis) and early risers will secure a good spot on the beach.

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Azure Window

by Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafà (who also designed Mdina Cathedral). Built entirely out of local limestone, it is a beautiful example of Mediterranean baroque. Aside from the striking statue detailing the Virgin Mary’s assumption into heaven, this cathedral is also known for the trompe l’oeil painting on its ceiling which shows the inside of a dome that was never constructed; it is the only one of its kind on the Maltese islands. Do not miss a visit to the adjacent Cathedral Museum as it houses some of the most beautiful works of art and ecclesiastical silverware in Malta and Gozo. The souvenir shop is also worth a quick browse.

Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2155 4101, www.gozocathedral.org).

Open 5am-8pm daily. Admission Cathedral & Museum €3.50.

Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary This place of worship draws thousands of visitors every year.

It is widely believed that, in 1883, the Blessed Virgin appeared to Karmena Grima, a peasant girl, on this spot, here, and asked her to pray. It is said that many miracles have taken place as a result. The church is now a shrine to the Virgin Mary, and the museum at the back is home to all sorts of gifts and letters of thanks. Such is the church’s fame that, in 2010, Pope Benedict XVI gave the Madonna of Ta’ Pinu a Golden Rose (a papal gift to Our Lady). Recent additions here

include new mosaics depicting the Virgin Mary, Jesus and St John the Baptist, located just outside the main door. Opposite the basilica you will find an open-air ‘Way of the Cross’ with 14 towering marble statues spaced out along the winding Ghammar Hill. The view at the top is well worth the visit.

Gharb (2155 6187, www.tapinu. org). Open 7am-7pm Mon-Sat; 6am-12.15pm, 1.30-7pm Sun & public hols. Admission free.

Museums Folklore Museum This is one of the largest museums in the Citadel. Its exhibits, displayed within a group of houses that date back to medieval times, reveal what domestic life was like on Gozo in times gone by. The buildings themselves are a treat, as they belonged to wealthy families and have rare architectural features of Sicilian and Catalan origin. The first floor hosts an exhibition of items relating to traditional hobbies (such as hunting and the construction of miniature churches and their paraphernalia), while the main exhibits showcase rural trades including agriculture, stone masonry and carpentry, as well as the beautiful lace-making and weaving that Malta and Gozo are renowned for. If you plan to visit a number of sites in Gozo during your stay, ask for a combined site ticket.

Melite Bernardo De Opuo Street, Citadel, Rabat (2156 2034, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am4.30pm daily. Admission €3; €1.50-€2 reductions; free under-6s.

Museum of Archaeology Once a space of hospitality for the guests of the Knights of St John and a residential property in the 17th century, this beautiful building now houses most of the main archaeological artefacts unearthed in Gozo and Comino through the centuries. Some of the artefacts here are up to 7,000 years old and highlights include the Majmuma stone, pottery shards from 5,000 BC and a glass Roman urn holding cremated remains. The museum also hosts a number of amphorae, anchors and jugs from the Roman period, and tombstones from the Middle

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Places of interest

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Cittadella (pictured above and below) Perched on the hill above Rabat, the Citadel is a tiny walled city bursting with interesting sights. Tour the bastion walls to take photos from the many vantage points, explore the winding alleys and visit the museums – including The Old Prison (see right) and the Museum of Archaeology (see left).

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Ggantija Temples Predating the Pyramids and Stonehenge, the Ggantija Temples stand as testament to Gozo’s incredible history. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, this is a must during any visit. See right.

Dwejra and the Azure Window A hugely popular spot for divers and snorkelers, this site is best seen from the sea. Take one of the manned boats out through the impressive Dwejra cave into the open waters to admire the Azure Window from the open sea. You’ll quickly understand why it has been chosen as the backdrop for all sorts of films and adverts over the years!

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Ta’ Pinu Basilica While the church here is very beautiful, it is the shrine at the back that really draws crowds. Built to honour the Virgin Mary, who is said to have appeared here hundreds of years ago, thousands of letters, gifts and trinkets have been sent in by worshippers. Whether you are religious or not, the stories you’ll read are very touching. See p150.

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Blue Lagoon The turquoise waters of Comino’s Blue Lagoon are famous all over the world, so we certainly suggest you visit them too. This tiny bay does get very busy during the summer months, so it’s best to arrive early. Once on Comino, do explore the rest of the island as other striking bays dot the coast.

viewingmalta.com/Ted Attard

Heart of Gozo – Il-Hagar The rich collection of religious, historical and artistic artefacts here, which includes paintings, statues, religious vestments and coins, is spread over three floors. The building combines a medieval palace, a traditional townhouse and a purposely built wing, which is, in itself, interesting to see. Noteworthy items include donations from Popes Francis and Benedict XVI, artistic works from Mattia Preti’s bottega, silverware and even millennia-old oil lamps from Palestine. A prominent feature is a central structure leading to the roof and showcasing the civilisations that have influenced Gozo’s identity. Visitors can also spend time in the audio-visual rooms. Temporary exhibitions and events are organised here regularly.

St George’s Square, Rabat (2155 7504, www.heartofgozo.org.mt). Open 9am-5.30pm daily. Admission free.

Don’t miss…

Gozo’s highlights

Ages. Don’t miss the ‘Xlendi Room’ which has a number of items that were lifted from the Grecian and Roman underwater wrecks found in Xlendi Bay in the 1960s. The visitor centres here and at the Ggantija Temples complement each other, so it makes sense to visit both.

Mdina Gate Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6144, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €3; €1.50-€2 reductions; free under-6s.

Cittadella We suggest you start your day in Gozo here, wandering through the narrow streets and peering over the bastions at the beautiful view below. This remarkable site in Rabat was first occupied in the Bronze Age, and later sheltered locals during the dark, dangerous nights when the island was attacked by invaders.

Today it is a mere shell of its former self but still an undeniable archaeological and architectural jewel, with interesting museums, sites, alleys and crafts shops to discover. Keep your eyes peeled for the little details – holy niches, well-preserved Norman-style windows and arches, as well as intricate coats-of-arms atop the historic houses and other buildings.

Ggantija Temples The tiny island of Gozo hosts the world’s oldest freestanding temples – older than Stonehenge – and they are also a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. Constructed with megaliths around 3,600 BC, these two temples would have originally looked like massive, hulking caves. Although the roofs have long since disappeared, the altars have survived the test of time and, if you look closely at the limestone megaliths that frame the passageways, you can detect the fading motifs of spirals and other decorative pitting. What makes this site even more special is its unique footprint, which is thought to mimic the ‘fat lady’ statues excavated within, and which are now exhibited at the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta (see p44). Spend time in the visitors’ centre and browse the new interactive portal (www. heritagemalta.org/collections/ ggantija) to learn more about the site and its history.

Temples Street, Xaghra (2155 3194, www.heritagemalta.org). Open June-Sept 9am-6.45pm daily; Oct-May 9am-5pm daily. Admission €9; €5-€7 reductions; free under-6s (ticket also valid for Ta’ Kola Windmill see p154).

The Old Prison As the oldest surviving prison on Gozo, this medieval building showcases the most extensive collection of historical graffiti on

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Gozo & Comino

Gozo Nature Museum This 17th-century building started life as an inn, and was later used as a family air raid shelter during World War II. Today it houses exhibits on the island’s geology, minerals, human and animal evolution, marine life, insects, butterflies, moths and migratory birds. Here you can also find ‘Malta Fungus’ taken from the Fungus Rock in Dwejra, Gozo. This fungus was highly prized by the Knights of St John, who believed it had special medicinal powers. Although the fungus still grows there, it is now illegal to climb onto the rock itself. Another crowd puller is a small Maltese flag-bedecked moonstone that was brought back from the moon’s surface by the crew of Apollo II and donated to the Maltese people by President Nixon.

Kwartier ta’ San Martin Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 6153, www. heritagemalta.org). Open 9am4.30pm daily. Admission €3; €1.50-€2 reductions; free under-6s.

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Gozo & Comino

the islands. The graffiti, depicting cells, galleys, handprints, crosses, names, dates, games and animal and human figures, gives a fascinating insight into the lives of those imprisoned here, including the famous knight (later Grand Master) Jean de la Valette.

Cathedral Square, Citadel, Rabat (2156 5988, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €3; €1.50-€2 reductions; free under-6s.

Where to eat Beyond the history and culture, Gozo is a foodie destination too.

Some of the best restaurants on the islands are located here, with the cuisine largely focused on fresh, Mediterranean ingredients and seasonal specialities.

Cafés Bellusa Café Recently refurbished and situated on Rabat’s Independence Square, Bellusa Café has been a popular choice for some 50 odd years and it allows visitors to experience the Gozitan way of life at first hand. Offering a tasty selection of hot and cold drinks, home-made omelettes and burgers, pizza, pasta and pastizzi (pea or cheese cakes), Bellusa is also an easygoing option for a quick break.

34 Independence Square, Rabat (9940 7134). Open 7am-7pm daily. No credit cards.

Café Reale Boasting views of Xaghra’s imposing church, Café Reale is the ideal spot for a snack and a portion of people-watching in one of Gozo’s most charming squares. You’ll find lots of healthy options here, including freshly made smoothies.

For a refreshing summertime treat, try the Gelato di Capo – fruit served with your choice of ice-cream or the popular cassata Siciliana.

29 Victory Square, Xaghra (2155 3887). Open 8am-10pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards.

French Ta’ Frenc Viewed by many as one of the best fine-dining restaurants anywhere

Gozo’s stunning beaches just off the beaten track

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Ta’ Kola Windmill Built in 1725 and reconstructed in the 1780s, this stone windmill was actively in use until the mid-20th century. Today you can see the internal and external mechanisms, which are still in working order, as well as an array of milling tools and the miller’s living quarters.

Bambina Street, Xaghra (2156 1071, www.heritagemalta.org).

Open 9am-5pm daily. Admission €9 (ticket includes admission to Ggantija Temples); €5-€7 reductions; free under-6s.

Maltese

OUT O F S I GHT

The island of Gozo may measure just 14km in length by 7km in width but it has some truly world-class beaches dotting its periphery. The most famous is Ramla Bay, which awes visitors with its red sand and crystal-clear seas. But there are many lesser-known nooks that are well worth a visit too.

This is our pick of these hidden gems.

Ghasri Valley Flagged by dramatic cliffs, the small, pebbly beach here is a real picture-perfect spot that not many get to see. To reach this remote-yet-splendid valley, simply get to the Ghasri village square and ask for directions.

Mgarr ix-Xini Best accessed by boat, this bay is located in a magnificent valley. Its waters are home to a variety of species, and we suggest you take an underwater camera with you. The bay recently provided the backdrop for Angelina Jolie’s upcoming film, ‘By The Sea’.

San Blas Bay (pictured above) Getting to this tiny, sandy bay hidden by the greenery of the surrounding area is your reward for negotiating down the steep slope that leads to it. It’s still worth a visit though, and makes for a wonderful alternative to the more well-known sandy beaches on the island.

South of Mars Located between Marsalforn and Dahlet Qorrot (pictured right), this little inlet is peppered with sandstone boulders that provide a fun challenge for low-level climbers. The bay is quiet and allows for a peaceful swim far away from the masses.

Xatt l-Ahmar Bay A favourite among snorkelers, this rocky beach is found at the limits of Ghajnsielem. Its name, which translates as the Red Shore Bay, is derived from the colour of the soil in the terraced fields overlooking it. in the Maltese islands, the awardwinning Ta’ Frenc deserves its sterling reputation. Situated in a 14th-century farmhouse that overlooks the Marsalforn valley, there’s a romantic air to Ta’ Frenc and it’s ideal for a special occasion.

The à la carte menu has something for everyone and never disappoints.

Try the lemon-scented risotto or black truffle and Portobello mushroom parcels to start. Follow this with one of the famed meat or fish dishes, and complete your experience with the apple crêpes or the soufflé with Grand Marnier.

The fresh herb garden provides all the herbs used in the dishes and, as

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an added special touch, Ta’ Frenc also has wine made specifically for the restaurant by prestigious French houses, as well as its own-label champagne. For those keen to sample Ta’ Frenc’s food on a budget, there is a three-course set menu for €35 per person, four courses for €40 or five courses for €50, and as a more lavish choice, the chef’s luxury six-course tasting menu for €65 a head.

Ghajn Damma Street, Xaghra (2155 3888, www.tafrencrestaurant.com).

Open Apr-Dec noon-1.30pm, 7-9.30pm Wed-Mon; Jan-Mar noon-1.30pm FriSun; 7-10pm Fri, Sat. Main courses €19. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Menqa l-Antika Run by chef-patron Gordon Camilleri this place is all about creating Gozitan food with a twist. Dig in to the delicious fish cakes or hand-picked local snails for starters, followed by bragjoli (beef olives) or the fish platter of local prawns, swordfish skewers, chilli scallops and house-cured salmon. Vegetarians are also well catered for, with the Gozo cheese ravioli in a tomato and basil sauce, and the vegan red cabbage, green apple and pine nut parcel.

The chef’s famous imqaret (date pastries) for dessert with honey and lemon ice-cream are to die for.

Definitely one of our favourites.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2730 0309, www.menqalantika.com). Open 6-11pm Tue-Sun; also 11am-3pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €13-€20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Rikardu If it’s authentic fare you’re after, then look no further than this homely, family-run spot. You can choose to dine downstairs among the souvenirs and jars of delicious Gozo honey and packed cheeses, or alternatively, on the roof terrace.

We always order the same thing: a platter of local cheeses, fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, capers, onions and Gozitan bread. If you’re looking for more, the home-made ravioli and rabbit cooked in wine from the owner’s vineyard will exceed all expectations and still leave you wanting to try the tasty helwa tattork (a sugary mixture made largely of crushed and whole almonds).

Fosos Street, Citadel, Rabat (2155 5953). Open 10am-7pm daily. Main courses €12. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Ta’ Vestru With its generous portions and low prices, Ta’ Vestru is a treat. The affable chef and owner Charlie recommends the traditional ravioli, or the tortelli filled with porcini mushrooms, followed by the traditional rabbit stew – and we have to agree! This place is particularly known for its desserts; apple pie and Snickers cake are not to be missed.

5 St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 9090). Open 11.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; 6pm-midnight daily. Main courses €7-€18. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Mediterranean Beppe’s Beppe’s is a real find and a must if you fancy fine-dining fare.

Everything here is of the highest standard – from chef Joseph’s pan-seared rabbit liver with toasted raisin bread and the fresh mussels cooked in white wine, garlic and fresh herbs to start with, to the pan-seared salmon in

Gozo & Comino

a passion fruit and butter sauce, and the Brazil-nut crusted fillet of pork. Dessert is made fresh every day – do try the chocolate fondant if it’s available. Beppe’s also offers patrons the possibility to take their own wine with them for a reasonable corkage fee.

Il-Menqa, Marsalforn (2750 0567, www.beppesrestaurant.com).

Open 11am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €18-€20.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. The Boathouse One of Gozo’s most popular restaurants, The Boathouse offers a varied menu accompanied by a highly personalised service – and right at the water’s edge. We love the lobster ravioli served in a curry cream and Pernod sauce, and the sought-after shellfish platter with calamari, clams and prawns. Follow that with the fresh fish or slightly spicy boneless chicken thighs. Round everything off with a swig of limoncello and a hearty portion of one of the ever-changing selection of homemade desserts (pick the lemon meringue or mascarpone pistachio mousse if they are available).

Xlendi Bay (2156 9153, www. theboathousegozo.com). Open noon10.30pm daily. Main courses €13-€25.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Brookies Restaurant Situated in a 300-year-old farmhouse – parts of which were formed out of natural caves – Brookies is a delight to all the senses. Its new menu, crafted by owner Marvin Cremona, focuses on Mediterranean grills.

Adjoining Brookies is the Music Café, which serves a light morning menu between 9.30am at 2pm from Monday to Saturday, and transforms into a pub on Friday and Saturday nights.

1-2 Wied Sara Street, Rabat (9955 2473). Open 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon; 11.30am-2.30pm Sun. Main courses €15-€25. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D-Bar Famed for its genuine atmosphere and good service, D-Bar is also renowned for its great pizzas, generous portions and friendly service. Family-run by Twanny and Natalie, together with chef Sunny, you can expect wholesome, hearty food, so come hungry! The tasty barbecued spare ribs are loved by anyone who tries them, while the pizzas are hailed as some of the best in Gozo. We particularly love the Surrana pizza with fresh goats’ cheese, Maltese sausage, potatoes and rosemary and, for something different, the chicken cooked in cognac. End your meal with the delectable warm chocolate cake.

St Joseph Square, Qala (2155 6242).

Open 6-10.30pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am2.30pm, 6-11pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €10-€16. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Triq l-Imghallem, Rabat (2155 8047, www.lastanzarestaurant.com).

Open 7-10pm Tue-Sun; also noon2pm Sun. Main courses €12-€23.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Latini Latini is a family-run, value-formoney option on the Marsalforn seafront. Get off to a flying start with the original rabbit spring rolls or seafood tortilla, followed by boneless quail with ginger and lemon zest cooked in Marsala wine or local chicken breast in a lemon, coriander and creamy cognac sauce. Equally scrumptious is the vegetarian option of marrows stuffed with ricotta. Whether or not you have room for it, we recommend you indulge in the chocolate orange fondant or baked Alaska.

Il-Menqa, Marsalforn (2155 0950, www. latinirestaurant.com). Open 11am-2pm, 6-11pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €15€21. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Brookies Restaurant

Ic-Cima Enjoying beautiful and dramatic views of Xlendi Bay and its surrounding cliffs, Ic-Cima ticks the boxes of great food, good service and a lovely setting. Here, only the freshest fish is served, while the specials change every week. The traditional aljotta (fish soup) is one of the best, while the local antipasto platter also gets your meal off to a great start. Whatever main you pick, be sure to save a little space for a dessert – preferably the homemade ice-cream, chocolate fudge cake or pannacotta; the latter is among the best we’ve ever tasted.

St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 8407, www.cimarestaurant.com). Open noon2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €17. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Il-Kartell This restaurant has been pleasing patrons for decades. Set right by the water’s edge in Marsalforn, it is ideal for a long, lazy lunch or dinner (call to check about extended dinner hours mid-season). Each meal starts with a complimentary serving of bruschetta and we love sampling a portion of the cold antipasto with whatever vegetables are in season. For fish-lovers we especially recommend the lampuki or delicious shellfish, while if you prefer meat, the braised rabbit is lovely.

For that added local touch, wines from the Gozitan Ta’ Mena estate are served. Plus, you’ll be in good company as Sharon Stone, Peter O’Toole and tenor Joseph Calleja have all dined here on occasion!

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2155 6918, www.il-kartellrestaurant.com). Open Apr-Nov 11.30am-3.30pm daily; 6-11pm Thur-Tue; Dec-Mar 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-10pm Thur-Tue. Main courses €13€22. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

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Il-Panzier It’s all about genuine food at this hidden gem, which is also well known for its range of vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. Run by Valentino and his wife Alexandra, this Sicilian ‘experience’ will have you coming back for more time and again. Everything is authentic, from the tables made of Sicilian ceramic and lava stone to the Sicilian wine, extra virgin olive oil, wild oregano, pistachios, and ricotta. We love the starter of caponata – with aubergines, tomatoes and peppers, followed by the pasta Panzier with mushrooms and aubergines. The fresh sea bass for mains is also much loved. Be sure that you complete your meal with a small glass of limoncello and a home-made sorbet, tiramisu or, our personal favourite, a scoop of home-made ricotta ice-cream.

39 Charity Street, Rabat (2155 9979, www.panzierrestgozo.com).

Open noon-2.30pm, 6.30-9.30pm daily. Main courses €14.50€21. Credit AmEx, MC, V. La Stanza Situated in a converted farmhouse that traces its history back to the early 1600s, this is the perfect place for a meal just outside the bustling capital. The food is fresh and enticing, with starters like the tabbouleh with parsley, mint, tomatoes, cucumber, spring onions and olives or the deep-fried calamari in tempura, served with mixed salad leaves. Our preferred mains are the chicken tagine with spiced local vegetables, figs, plums and sultanas, and the Argentinian Angus rib-eye steak with rosemary potatoes. Dessert is worth leaving room for: the lavender crème caramel is absolutely delightful.

Maji Wine & Dine Now under new management, this once-popular spot is now back in the limelight. Try to secure a table on the terrace, from where you can enjoy open views of west Gozo and can watch the night-time fireworks.

The cuisine here is ‘Mediterranean with a twist’, and highlights include the portobello mushrooms with seafood and the savoury pancakes with beef fillet. For something heartier, try the rabbit stew or the calamaretti with sweet chilli sauce, followed by the delicious home-made apple crumble.

Sir Adrian Dingli Street, Rabat (2155 0878). Open mid May-mid Sept 6.3011pm Tue-Sun; mid Sept-mid May 6.30-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €13€23. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Mojo’s It’s a family affair here at Mojo’s and its wonderfully fresh and tasty, no-frills fare is a tangible reflection of the love and dedication put into the place by the hard-working and affable owners. Situated in the heart of Rabat, opposite the Arkadia Commercial Centre (see p158), it’s the ideal place for a pit-stop after a morning of heavy shopping. We also love its informal and relaxed atmosphere.

Ingredients are well sourced and everything tastes great as a result, including the burgers, soups, salads and juices. If you’re not watching your waist, then sweet chilli fries are an absolute must.

The delicious home-made cakes (including our much-loved carrot variety) are also mouth-watering.

Kennedy Square, Rabat (2156 9596).

Open 8am-4pm Mon-Thur; 8am10.30pm Fri-Sun. Main courses €6€10. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Patrick’s Lounge & Restaurant A favourite haunt of local foodies, chef-patron Patrick has made

this award-winning restaurant his passion, and that reflects in everything from the décor and service to the exquisite menu. We suggest you start with the cured salmon served with rye bread and a Greek-yoghurt drizzle or the deepfried salt and pepper squid with a lemon vinaigrette. If you’re a meat lover, then the bistecca Fiorentina is a must – the cuts are flown in fresh from Tuscany every week; while the grilled local king prawns are also very special. To finish, tuck into the Valrhona chocolate fondant or moreish lemon tart.

Europe Street, Rabat (2156 6667, www.patrickstmun.com). Open July-Sept 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; Oct-June 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-2.30pm Sun. Main courses €19.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Pulena Ristorante Located by one of the most picturesque bays in Gozo, Pulena is the ultimate retreat for wanderers and locals alike. Owner and chef patron Godwin Cardona has crafted a menu that fuses Mediterranean

Qbajjar Restaurant Popular with locals and a mere 15mins walk from Marsalforn Bay, this indoor/outdoor eatery facing the scenic rocky stretches that lead into the clear blue waters of Qbajjar Bay, is busy night and day (and offers convenient all-day dining).

We love the starter of crispy fried calamari served with prawns, followed by the catch of the day.

There’s plenty for meat lovers and vegetarians too, including the mushroom-filled panzerotti pasta with capellini mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and thyme. The desserts here are home-made and you won’t want to miss the tiramisu or cherry cheesecake.

23 Qbajjar Road, Marsalforn (2155 1124, www.qbajjarrestaurant.com).

Open 10am-11pm daily. Closed Tue Oct-May. Main courses €15-€22.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Rew Rew It wasn’t very long ago that Angelina Jolie used this

FRESH FARE

Looking for the freshest produce to add to your home-cooked meal or picnic basket? It-Tokk, the busy daily market in Rabat, should be your first port of call; the shops and hawkers here sell everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to justcaught fish. For organic fare, visit the Ta’ Mena Estate (www.tamenagozo.com), where the roadside store sells fruit and vegetables harvested in the surrounding fields.

restaurant/beach shack as the backdrop of her latest film ‘By The Sea’ – so you’ll certainly be in good company when you dine here.

This is casual dining with a twist and right on the water’s edge, as the talented team puts your meal together before your very eyes.

Food really doesn’t get fresher than this – fish, mussels, clams, calamari and prawns all served to your liking. Meat lovers are also well catered for, thanks to the grilled chicken and Angus steak (served with chips and a salad). No meal is complete without a slice of the famous home-made almond cake, carrot cake or cassatella Siciliana.

Mgarr ix-Xini (7985 4007). Open Mar-Nov Restaurant noon-4pm daily; Bar 10.30am-7pm daily. Main courses €16-€20. No credit cards.

Ristorante Arzella This restaurant’s unique setting offers breath-taking views of the crashing waves on the rocks below and the food is as appealing as the view. Given the backdrop, it is no wonder that fresh fish and seafood are the specialities here. We highly recommend the fish soup or the assaggi of prawns, mussels and

Candy Café. See p160.

mushrooms for starters. For your main, opt for the pasta with seafood, the trio of calamari (stuffed, fried and pan-cooked), the sautéed king prawns or the fresh fish of the day. Alternatively, ask for the chef’s fish platter, which combines the very best offerings of the day. Save room for one of the home-made desserts, such as the show-stopping chocolate fondant, cherry cheesecake or banoffee pie.

Ghar Qawqla Street, Marsalforn (2155 4662, www.ristorantearzella. com). Open 11am-3pm daily; 6-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses €12-€21.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Sicilia Bella With lovely views of the harbour, this Sicilian restaurant’s terrace is the perfect place for the kind of relaxed lunch or dinner that Mediterraneans are so famous for. For starters feast on fish antipasto, a fabulous mix of rice balls, octopus carpaccio, smoked salmon, smoked tuna and calamari, or pasta with lobster. Then, move on to the fresh fish of the day (which can be served al cartoccio, grilled, or covered in an outer layer of salt which is cracked open to reveal the white flesh underneath).

The stuffed calamari are also unbeatable. For dessert, the best of Sicily has been translated into the home-made cassata, pannacotta, semifreddo and, of course, cannoli.

Manuel De Vilhena Street, Mgarr (2156 3588). Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; also noon-3pm Sat, Sun. Main courses €15. Credit MC, V. Ta’ Pennellu Run by dedicated chef (and artist) Anthony, this waterfront eatery has an edge to it. It is particularly well-known for the eggplant parmiggiana (which isn’t always on the menu), fresh mussels cooked in garlic with fresh herbs and Italian olive oil, the beef carpaccio and the fish soup. For mains, we suggest the Argentinian fillet flambé or the fish baked in sea salt. Those with a sweet tooth can round off their meal with one of the many home-made cakes on offer or the home-made cinnamon, fig or dark chocolate ice-cream, washed down with the complimentary drink that Anthony is sure to offer you.

If you are visiting outside the months mentioned below, then do call ahead as Ta’ Pennellu is sometimes open in the winter too.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2155 9730, www.pennellu.com). Open Apr-Oct 10am-11.30pm Wed-Mon; 6.30-11.30pm Tue. Main courses €18€25. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Tmun Mgarr If you’re heading over to Gozo for lunch or dinner, then this Mgarr Harbour restaurant is the perfect choice. Run by zealous

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Gozo & Comino

Porto Vecchio Conveniently located just a stone’s throw away from the ferry (which means you could even leave the car behind and pop over to Gozo on foot) this restaurant is renowned for only using the freshest ingredients, including the freshest local fish.

Most dishes are altered to make the most of the season, such as the risotto, which changes based on what’s available. Ask for a table on the terrace overlooking the bustling harbour and follow your meal with a stroll along the picture-perfect promenade.

Martino Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 3317, www.portovecchiorestaurant. com). Open noon-3pm, 7-10pm Thur-Tue. Main courses €14-€19.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

and Maltese cuisines together, and some of our favourite dishes include the aljotta (traditional fish soup) and the ravioli stuffed with sheep’s cheese for starters, the octopus or rabbit stew for mains, and the home-made tiramisu for dessert. If you’re visiting in January or February it’s best to call in advance to see if the restaurant open, and make sure you book ahead to secure one of the eight tables just on the water’s edge during the summer. Pets are also welcome in the outside area.

Marina Street, Marsalforn (2155 9777, www.pulenaristorante.com).

Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm Thur-Tue. Main courses €17.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Gozo & Comino

This is the island’s only cocktail piano lounge, and it’s a great place to see, be seen and meet people.

Il-Menqa, Marsalforn (2156 2473). Open Sept-May 9pm-1am Fri, Sat. No credit cards.

Vini e Capricci by Abrahams. See p160.

couple Leli and Jane Buttigieg, and their gifted son Paul, it has dominated the Gozitan culinary scene for over 25 years. The menu is seasonal and the specials change regularly, and there are even vegan, low-fat and glutenfree options. When possible, rope in your best friend or significant other and tuck into Tmun’s famous ‘bouillabaisse for two’ or the incredibly tasty and varied fish platter. If you’re not sharing, the fresh garganelli pasta in a simple sun-dried tomato and rocket pesto is exquisite. For mains choose from the fresh fish on display, or the grilled Barbary duck breast in a wild berry and ginger port jus. Finally, don’t leave the table till you’ve sampled the signature crème brûlée or the divine salted caramel ice-cream. The wine list is vast and offers a great choice.

Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr (2156 6276, www.tmunmgarr.com).

Open noon-2.30pm daily; 6.3010.30pm Wed-Mon. Main courses €15-€23. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Oriental Fu Hua Oriental Restaurant This typical Chinese restaurant has been pleasing its local patrons for over 13 years. Recently refurbished, its décor is modern and bright, with a dynamic and very fairly priced menu to match.

Specialising in Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine, popular dishes include the spring rolls, wontons and dumplings to start with, followed by the lemon chicken, egg-fried rice and spicy noodles.

Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2156 4666). Open 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Mon; also noon-2pm Sun Novmid June. Main courses €9-€15.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Where to drink From wine bars in the village core to lounges by the sea, drinking in Gozo really embraces the Mediterranean way of life.

Café Jubilee You will find a couple of Café Jubilee bars in Malta, but this is the bar where the brand was born.

Whether you want tea, coffee, a glass of wine or an after-theatre snack, this quaintly decorated café is always busy and bustling. Enjoy nanna’s (grandma’s) home-made ravioli filled with goats’ cheese, the tasty rabbit stew or the quickfix chicken-and-mushroom pie, followed by the apple pie. The eclectic décor is fun to peruse too, featuring a mad array of trinkets, retro pictures and movie posters.

8 Independence Square, Rabat (2155 8921, www.cafejubilee.com). Open 8am-1am daily. Credit DC, MC, V. Gleneagles Bar Nothing ever changes at this iconic bar – and that’s exactly what makes it so special. Having gained its legendary status after the author AJ Quinnell made it the base of his unforgettable character Creasy in his book ‘Man on Fire’, it is the perfect spot for a cold beer overlooking the harbour. We’re also fans of proprietor Anthony’s Gleneagles Special cocktail. The midnight closing time is usually extended till 1am in the summer.

10 Victory Street, Mgarr (2155 6543). Open 3pm-midnight daily. No credit cards.

The Grapes Another stalwart of the mellow Gozitan nightlife scene, this charming bar is situated in the

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heart of Rabat. Order a Campari Soda, or something substantial if you’re feeling peckish and watch the world go by. Given the younger crowds it attracts on weekends and summer evenings, this is the ideal place to relax and make new friends..

St George’s Square, Rabat (7947 3536, www.thegrapeswinebar. com). Open 8am-2am Mon-Thur; 8am-4am Fri-Sun. Credit MC, V. La Caverna As part of the five-star Kempinski resort (see p162), this is a stylish option for pre/post dinner drinks or to spend a relaxed evening.

Taking its name from ‘the cave of the old man in Gozo’ story, which dates back to 1583 when numerous wine presses were discovered in Mgarr ix-Xini, there are over 300 wines to choose from – so even the most discerning connoisseur should find a vintage that pleases the palate. There’s live music on select nights, too, as well as art exhibitions but it’s best to call ahead to confirm the calendar.

Complimentary tapas platters will accompany your wine.

Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort, San Lawrenz (2211 0000).

Open 9pm-1am Thur-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Murella Piano Lounge Serving up some of Gozo’s best cocktails, including delicious mojitos and Long Island ice teas, there is a young and upbeat atmosphere to enjoy here. Owned by the same people who gave birth to the popular Café Jubilee (see left) brand, Murella has brought a sense of old-world glamour and style to Gozo. We love the 1920s décor as well as the live music performed on the specially built piano stage.

Piùtrentanove Lounge Bar From karaoke to chicken curry, there’s lots to look forward to at this relaxed bar. In fact, it’s so laid-back that it feels like a little bit of Tuscany on Gozo, so much so that Italian proprietors Davide and Filippo have attracted quite a loyal clientele. This hip, fun bar shows all of the latest sports and international events on its big screen, and also serves up delicious food (as well as a great selection of drinks). Tuck into a tasty thin-crusted pizza, chicken curry, fresh pasta or burger while you’re watching the big game or sip your beer or wine accompanied by the complimentary bite-sized canapés, focaccia and mini-pasta portions.

65 Marina Street, Marsalforn (2720 1515, www.piutrentanovebar. com). Open June-Sept noon-4am daily; Oct-May noon-2am daily.

Closed Jan, Feb. Credit MC, V.

Shopping Arcades and shopping complexes Arkadia Commercial Centre This was the first mall of its kind on Gozo and it still has a brilliant reputation as a one-stop-shop for anything you may need. The lower floor houses a decently sized supermarket (with a very good fruit and veg section) while the upper floors host stores and brands such as Tape à l’Oeil, Sandro Ferrone, Peacocks, Piazza Italia, Urban Jungle, Pearl Health & Beauty, Boulevard, the recently opened Swarovski and more. Plus, you’ll find kitchen and houseware on the top floor, including an area dedicated to Waitrose home products, and a hairdressing salon near the main entrance. Parking facilities are free and available on site, and a McDonald’s outlet is located on the ground floor.

Fortunato Mizzi Street, Rabat (2210 3000, www.arkadia.com.mt).

Open Commercial Centre 9am-8pm daily; Foodstore 8am-8pm daily.

The Duke Shopping Mall Located on the main road that runs through Rabat, The Duke is home to popular brands including Accessorize, Monsoon, List, Eurosport, Toy World, Innovate Electronics, The Kitchen Store, Piccinino (for underwear and swimwear), Bortex, Springfield, Benetton and the recently opened George. Many locals come for a coffee at the The Duke Café (where you’ll also get free Wi-Fi).

You’ll also find a well-stocked

supermarket in the basement, although it’s best to double check the Sunday opening times during the winter as these can vary.

Republic Street, Rabat (2155 8000, www.thedukegozo.com). Open Commercial Centre 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-1pm Sun; Foodstore 8am-8pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Crafts Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts Village This dinky ‘village’ on the west side of the island is populated with pretty, little artisan workshops that produce lovely, locally made items such as candles, ceramics, pottery, lace, leather, brassware and mouthblown glass. Since the choice is vast and the quality good, these products make for ideal holiday souvenirs.

Frangisk Portelli Street, San Lawrenz. Open 9.30am-5pm daily.

Gozo & Comino

Food and drink Candy Café Candy Café has been making life that little bit sweeter since December 2013. It has an aweinspiring selection of sweets, including over 64 different pick-and-mix and sugar-free and gluten-free options. The café comes complete with a children’s area that hosts Disney characters every week, and a sit-down area for coffee-drinkers and ice-cream lovers. Pancakes and waffles, topped with an appetising array of ingredients are also served.

Menqa, Marsalforn (2156 2473). Open mid Sept-mid June 10am-7pm daily; mid June-mid Sept 8am-11pm daily.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Savina Creations Owned by the influential Magro Brothers, whose group of companies is renowned for the production of good-quality food items on Gozo, Savina Creations’ products are a symbol of Malta’s heritage. These beautifully packaged products make for great souvenirs, and you can rest assured that only the best ingredients have been used to make the vast array of savoury pâtés, oils, vinegars, sauces, carob sweets, marzipan ‘fruits’ and everything else on offer. The new ‘Celebrity’ candle makes the perfect addition to any home, while the Bajtra and Anizetta wines are delicious.

The Magro Food Village, l-Ghassara Street, Xewkija (2156 2236, www. savina.com.mt). Open 9am-3.45pm Mon-Fri; 9am-3.15pm Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Vini e Capricci by Abrahams If it’s a high-quality, artisanal range of foodstuffs you want, head here. With over 980 different wines from 68 international wineries, Guido Gobino chocolates imported from Turin and a

selection of delicious biscuits, Vini e Capricci by Abrahams has a fantastic variety of products in a beautiful establishment. The range keeps growing, with new additions including salamis, wines, chocolates, butter and Italian cheese. There’s also a new and fantastic selection of 100 per cent Gozitan products to sample and buy, including wines and oils.

Gozo Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija (2156 3231, www.abrahams.com.mt).

Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Nightlife Even if you’ve chosen Gozo as the place to get away from it all, there is still a nightlife scene to enjoy. Aside from the year-round clubs, you’ll find that the calendar is pickled with one-off events and festivals, so it’s best to check the latest online listings.

La Grotta This is easily Gozo’s most popular outdoor club, and locals and Maltese flock here during the summer months. Perched on the edge of the picturesque Xlendi valley, this club offers the kind of breath-taking views that truly set it apart. La Grotta has attracted big names over the years, including Sonique, DJ Molella, David Guetta, Ritchie Hawtin (Plastikman), Alex Gaudino and Mr C (The Shamen), as well as top local musical talent.

Aside from its summer reputation, La Grotta has also gained popularity for its indoor club and lounge café, open throughout the year. Saturday nights are the most popular, and often attract top DJs. Xlendi (2155 1149). Open June-mid Oct 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Admission €7-€10.

Arts and entertainment

17 Castle Hill, Rabat (2155 9955, www.citadelcinema.com). Tickets Cinema €5.75; €3.50 children.

Gozo 360 €7; €3-€5 reductions.

Sports/Active Gozo Sports Complex The Gozo Sports Complex houses a good gym and the best basketball court on the island, as well as tennis, badminton and volleyball courts (€4 per session, to be booked in advance), and recently refurbished squash courts. The complex is now also holding badminton classes for €4. Pilates and aerobics courses for people of all ages are organised regularly and, although you can’t buy day passes, monthly memberships are priced at €12, and a course of 18 fitness sessions costs €20.

Europe Street, Rabat (2215 6996).

Open 8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am5.30pm Sat; 8.30am-4.30pm Sun. Theatre Astra Theatre A visit here is always a treat.

This grand theatre has a sterling reputation and has hosted a plethora of both local and international stars, including the renowned Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja. Bookings are only accepted via phone or email and it is best to reserve well ahead. The theatre spearheads the annual Festival Mediterranea (mediterranea.com. mt), as well as numerous other cultural events, and many Maltese flock to Gozo for the Astra’s annual operatic event, which usually takes place in October (see p12).

9 Republic Street, Rabat (2155 0985, www.teatruastra.com). Tickets €50€70; €20 Thur shows for students.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Aurora Theatre There’s a surprisingly busy calendar at this little theatre – and it’s well worth booking tickets to a show here if you have the time

(tickets may be bought online).

Opera is especially noteworthy, and 2015’s long-awaited production will be ‘La Traviata’ on 17 October (see p12). The rest of the calendar features ballet, concerts and drama. Since shows here are intermittent, check the website regularly for updated information.

Republic Street, Rabat (2156 2974, www.teatruaurora.com). Box office 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; 8am-noon Sun. Tickets €5-€80. No credit cards.

Where to stay Extend your day trip to a weekend break, or even a longer holiday – Gozo has all the makings of a fabulous vacation destination, including delightful places to stay and accommodation options to suit every budget.

Expensive Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa This is one of the top five-star hotels on Gozo and there’s something really special about it, including the recently upgraded suites and bedrooms. Built on a pleasingly isolated and breathtakingly beautiful Natura 2000 site, you will feel at-one with nature, and can walk along the cliffs or down to the hotel’s idyllic private rocky beach, where a new restaurant serving Italian food and fresh fish has recently opened. There is luxury on tap too – three outdoor swimming pools and a lagoon-style indooroutdoor pool as part of the spa.

The hotel’s Carrubo Restaurant is open all year round and offers a very good Mediterranean and Italian menu while the main bar terrace is also open for lunch, serving grills and salads.

Sannat (2219 1000, www.tacenc. com). Rates (incl breakfast) €115 single; €170 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

If you love culture, then Gozo won’t disappoint thanks to its busy schedule of festivals, festi, religious events, opera and theatre.

Film Citadel Cinema Situated at the foot of Gozo’s enchanting Cittadella (see p153), this 100-year-old building has the distinction of being Gozo’s only cinema. On top of showing all the latest Hollywood releases, the Citadel Cinema is the only place where you can view Gozo 360 – a short, multi-lingual film that has captured the essence of Gozo’s sights, sounds and history in spectacular cinematography.

A recent upgrade means that the Citadel is now home to the only two 4k projectors anywhere in Malta, so you are in for a visual treat!

160 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Ta’ Dbiegi Jewellery

viewingmalta.com

Gozo & Comino

Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa. See p160.

guaranteed a truly spectacular Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort view. Each room comes with Set in 30,000sqm of gardens and satellite TV, air-con, ensuite with a picture-perfect pool, this is bathroom and complimentary the ideal backdrop to a day spent Wi-Fi. There’s a good buffetreading a book in the sunshine style breakfast laid out every or taking dips into the water. morning, while the rooftop bar and Relaxation is high on the agenda restaurant are ideal for watching here at the Kempinski. Aside the sun set over the from the recently added crystal-clear waters hammam, the spa below. For added offers a vast array convenience, the of treatments, hotel operates as well as a courtesy a heated bus to the indoor As an alternative form of beaches pool, gym, accommodation, you may choose to at Ramla tennis and rent a self-catering villa or charming and squash house of character. Excellent Hondoq ircourts. amenities are available if you want Rummien Work-out them – some properties have during the sessions pools and unique design features. summer in pilates, Gozobreak‘s villas are surrounded by months, yoga and lush countryside and are a 10mins and to Rabat aquaerobics, drive from the Azure Window. throughout as well as www.gozobreak.com the year. guided walks Mgarr Harbour and cycling tours, (2156 3840, www. are also available. grandhotelmalta.com).

In keeping with its high Rates €80 single; €130 double. standards, the Kempinski supplies Credit AmEx, MC, V. its renowned restaurants with fresh produce from its own organic Hotel Calypso garden. Other restaurants at the This has been one of the most hotel include L’Ortolan (which popular hotels on Gozo for decades serves Mediterranean cuisine with and is located right opposite a touch of class) and Trattoria Marsalforn Bay. It’s worth San Lawrenz (for dishes inspired spending a little extra for a sea

by Italy). Highly recommended. view, although all the rooms – Rokon Street, San Lawrenz (2211 decorated in a quaint nautical 0000, www.kempinski.com/gozo). theme – are decently sized. Each Rates (incl breakfast) €160-€185 has an ensuite bathroom, balcony, single; €195-€220 double. Credit TV/radio, fridge bar and air-con, AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. and Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. The pool and deck Moderate are well-sized and inviting. The in-house restaurant, Tal-Murella Grand Hotel Café serves delicious Neapolitan Book a room overlooking the sea pizza cooked to perfection in a at this pleasant hotel, and you’re

HOME AWAY FROM HOME

162 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

wood-fire oven, while the Sunday buffet/barbecue draws a lot of locals (and for good reason).

Marsalforn Bay (2156 2000, www. hotelcalypsogozo.com). Rates (incl breakfast) €60-€90 single; €85-€145 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Quaint Hotel Nadur See p30.

Cheap Downtown Hotel Just a few minutes’ walk from Rabat’s main shopping street, Downtown is a good option if you want to be in the thick of the Gozitan capital. Although the rooms are quite basic, the facilities are good; a bustling café, a fun area for the kids, a bowling alley that recently hosted the Jolie-Pitt clan and complimentary Wi-Fi throughout. The onsite restaurant serves good local and Mediterranean cuisine, and a full English and continental breakfast.

The rooms are relatively modern, with well-sized bathrooms, TVs, minibar, hairdryer and air-con.

The price varies according to the view and the choice is between an internal room, a street view and a country view (with the sea beyond).

Europe Street, Rabat (2210 8000, www.downtown.com.mt). Rates (incl breakfast) €45 single; €70-€85 double.

Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V. Hotel Xlendi Resort & Spa The prices here are very reasonable when you consider the views of this hotel – they’re nothing short of glorious and worth paying extra for. There’s a choice of rooms and self-catering apartments on offer – standard or sea view deluxe (the latter is priced

at an extra €5 per person per night).

Facilities include air-con and a TV, while Wi-Fi is free across the property. There’s also an indoor and outdoor pool, spa and wellness centre, medical clinic, hairdressing salon, sun terrace, restaurant and gym. A good-value choice.

St Simon Street, Xlendi (2155 3719, www.hotelxlendi.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €45 single; €65 double. Credit MC, V. Maria Giovanna Guesthouse A welcoming spot in the seaside town of Marsalforn, this cosy guesthouse has 15 ensuite bedrooms, free Wi-Fi throughout, air-con and a communal living room where you can kick back after a long day at the beach. With a home-made breakfast served every morning, and the fact that there is no curfew, twin sisters Anna and Sonia will quickly make you feel at home. Home-cooked, hearty food can also be made to order.

41 Rabat Road, Marsalforn (2155 3630, www.tamariagozo.com).

Rates (incl breakfast) €50 single; €75-€85 double. No credit cards.

San Andrea It is the unobstructed views of Xlendi Bay that make this hotel a very good-value-for-money option. Twelve of its 28 twin bedrooms face the bay, and Wi-Fi, a TV area and air-con are all included. Zafiro, the in-house restaurant, has a lovely selection of Mediterranean food and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

We recommend a cool Campari on the terrace before dinner.

Xlendi Promenade, Xlendi (2156 5555, www.hotelsanandrea.com). Rates (half board) €50-€75 single; €60-€120 double. Credit AmEx, DC, JCB, MC, V.

Resources

Banks Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm from Monday to Thursday, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Friday and until 12.30pm on Saturday. Some banks open for longer hours, but summer hours are shorter. currency exchange

The Commission for the Disabled A governmental organisation dedicated to improving the lives of disabled people on the Maltese islands provides information on how best to get around and on other related organisations.

Bugeja Institute, Braille Street, Sta Venera (2278 8555, www.knpd.org).

Electricity

Malta adopted the euro on 1 January 2008. International bankcards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands.

The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain.

Casinos

British High Commission Whitehall Mansions, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex (2323 0000, www.gov.uk/government/world/malta).

Open 9am-1pm Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri.

Crime Report any incident as soon as possible to the police. The emergency number to call is 112 and the Police General Headquarters are in Floriana (2122 4001). Below is a list of some of the police stations.

Mosta Police Station (2141 4101).

Qawra Police Station (2294 3601).

Rabat (Gozo) Headquarters (2156 2040).

Sliema Police Station (2133 2282).

St Julian’s Police Station (2137 1694).

Disabled Both the government and the private sector are constantly working towards improving ‘access for all’ to museums, attractions, cultural venues, and the historic centres of towns and villages.

Visitors may contact the Malta Tourism Authority (2291 5000, www. visitmalta.com) to enquire whether a particular site or venue has easy access or facilities for the disabled.

If assistance is required at the airport, the airline must be notified before the flight. The airline will inform the Malta International Airport (MIA) directly. The MIA provides assistance both airside and landside.

French Embassy 130 Melita Street, Valletta (2248 0600, www.ambafrance-mt. org). Open 9am-1pm Mon-Fri; 2-4pm Mon-Fri by appointment only.

German Embassy Il-Pjazzetta, Entrance B, 1st floor, Tower Road, Sliema (2260 4000, www. valletta.diplo.de). Open 9am-noon Mon-Wed, Fri; also 1.15-4.15pm Wed. Italian Embassy 5 Vilhena Street, Floriana (2123 3157, www.amblavalletta.esteri.it). Open 9.30am-noon Mon-Fri; 1-3pm Thur.

Health Malta has an excellent healthcare service. Private and public hospitals are supported by a regional network of health centres.Visitors are advised to take out a personal medical insurance policy, particularly if they are not EU nationals. EU, EEA and Swiss nationals holding the European Health Insurance Card have access to Malta’s public healthcare and are entitled to free public medical and hospital care in both Malta and Gozo. Malta also has a reciprocal health agreement with Australia. Australians visiting the islands for no longer than one month are entitled to free medical and hospital care in both Malta and Gozo.

Visitors receiving special medical treatment should bring a medical prescription or a letter of introduction from their family doctor in case they need to purchase particular medicines. accidents and emergencies For any emergency services dial 112. The public general hospitals have 24-hour accident and emergency departments.

Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available in the local Sunday newspapers.

Dentists A full list of dentists is found in the Yellow Pages under ‘Dental surgeons’.

The public hospitals in Malta and Gozo provide emergency dental services for free to EU and EEA nationals holding the European Health Insurance Card.

Doctors A list of doctors is available within the Yellow Pages under ‘ClinicsPrivate’ and ‘Hospitals-Private’.

Consultations cost around €25. private hospitals St James Hospital Gorg Borg Olivier Street, Sliema (2329 1000, www.stjameshospital.com).

St Mark Health Clinic Clarence Street, Msida (2123 9488). public hospitals Mater Dei Hospital Birkirkara Bypass, Birkirkara (2545 0000).

Gozo General Hospital Rabat, Gozo (2156 1600).

STDs The Genito-Urinary Clinic provides free professional help and advice if you are suffering from a genito-urinary condition, or if you are in doubt. The clinic provides confidential diagnosis and treatment of sexually transmitted infections and related conditions (2122 7981).

Lost luggage In case of any lost luggage you should immediately get in touch with your airline. If you are flying with Air Malta call 2369 6135.

Museums and sites Public museums and sites generally have the following daily opening hours: 9am-5pm. Museums and sites are closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day and Good Friday. Last admission is 15-30mins before closing time.

Postal services Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch post offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm from Monday to Saturday. Sub-post offices are open between 8am and 1pm, and 4pm and 6pm from Monday to Friday and between 8am and 1pm on Saturday. Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels.

Public holidays Malta has a considerable number of public holidays: 1 January – New Year’s Day 10 February – St Paul’s Shipwreck 19 March – The Feast of St Joseph 31 March – Freedom Day March/April – Good Friday 1 May – Labour Day 7 June – Sette Giugno 29 June – St Peter and St Paul (L-Imnarja) 15 August – The Assumption of Our Lady (Santa Marija) 8 September – Our Lady of Victories 21 September – Independence Day 8 December – Immaculate Conception 13 December – Republic Day 25 December – Christmas Day

Religion Most Maltese are Catholic, but other religious denominations are also represented. There are small Anglican, Church of Scotland, Greek Orthodox, Jewish, Methodist and Muslim communities. Church services are held by the various denominations.

Shops Shops are normally open between 9am and 1pm, and between 4pm and 7pm, altough increasingly shops are opening all day. In tourist areas many shops remain open till 10pm. Shops are normally closed on Sundays and public holidays. Everyday an open-air market is set up in Valletta. On Sunday mornings, markets are also organised in most towns or villages. The largest is in Valletta and is held every Sunday morning, while the most picturesque is in Marsaxlokk (see Best Markets p17).

Smoking No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a designated smoking area.

Smoking in public places is illegal and carries hefty fines. Smoking is allowed at outdoor venues.

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Resources

Malta has several excellent casinos.

Admission requires an identity card or passport. Foreign nationals must be 18 years old to enter. The casinos also offer a choice of cuisines from international fare to Mediterranean specialities at their restaurants.

Embassies

chemists

Swimming The Maltese coastal waters are generally clean and safe for swimming as there are no tides.

Some bays are exposed to north and north-easterly winds that produce some strong undercurrents at times.

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay and Golden Bay areas can be potentially dangerous – a red flag flies to indicate when bathing should be restricted to only the innermost, shallow waters. sunbathing The Maltese archipelago lies virtually at the centre of the Mediterranean and has a latitude more southern than that of northern Tunisia. You are therefore advised to take precautions to ensure you avoid over-exposure to the sun.

Children and especially babies need extra protection from the sun. If you are sunbathing, it is advisable to avoid the strongest sunlight between 11am and 4pm in peak summer months.

Telephones and internet

Resources

Telecommunications operator GO provides residential and business telecommunications across the Maltese islands. Outlets are located in St Julian’s – Bay Street Shopping Complex, Birkirkara – Salvu Psaila Street, Naxxar – St Paul Street, Paola – A De Paule Square, Qormi – PAVI, Valletta – South Street, Gozo – Republic Street, Rabat.

GO offers international calls starting from €0.25 per min. To benefit from these rates dial 1021 before the country code complete with the international number (e.g. UK 1021 0044 xxxxxxxx) from your GO SIM (go.com.mt/international). You may get a GO starter SIM Pack for just €15 and get 1GB or local data €5 in credit (go.com.mt/startersim).

Torre dello Standardo, St Publius Square, Mdina (2145 4480). Open 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Street, Vittoriosa (2180 0145). Open 9am5pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. 17 Independence Square, Rabat, Gozo (2291 5452). Open 8am-6pm daily.

For further information go to www.mta.com.mt/tio

Useful addresses Ministry of Foreign Affairs Palazzo Parisio, Merchants Street, Valletta (2124 2191).

Air Malta Head Office Level 2, Sky Parks Business Centre, Malta International Airport, Luqa (2299 9000).

Malta Tourism Authority Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street, Valletta (2291 5000).

Malta Competition and Consumer Affairs Authority Mizzi House, National Road, Blata l-Bajda (2395 2000).

Useful and emergency numbers 00356 International code 112 Emergency services 1182 Directory enquiries 1152 Overseas operator 195 Time check 112 Ambulance 112 Fire brigade 2122 4001 Police 2125 0221 Consumer protection 2122 4781 Lost property 5230 2021 Weather information (rate per call €1) For further information go to www. visitmalta.com/en/useful-numbers

Internet cafés are scattered across the islands.

Websites

Time difference

www.airmalta.com Timetable, passenger information and online booking and checkin of Air Malta flights.

Malta is on Central European Time (CET), which is one hour ahead of GMT in winter and two hours ahead between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October. Malta is six hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (EST) in winter and seven hours ahead between the last Sunday in March and the last Sunday in October.

Tipping Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.25-€0.35 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.

Tourist information Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: 229 Auberge d’Italie, Merchants Street, Valletta (2291 5440). Open 9am5.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Pinto Wharf, Valletta Waterfront, Valletta (2122 0633). Open only when cruise liners are in port.

Malta International Airport, Arrivals Lounge, Luqa (2369 6073). Open 10am-9pm daily.

Iz-Zjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II – 26 ta’ Mejju 1990 Square, Mellieha (2152 4666). Open 9am-1pm Mon-Sat.

www.gozochannel.com Timetable and information on the Malta-Gozo ferry. www.heritagemalta.org Information about Malta and Gozo’s heritage sites and museums entrusted to the government’s national heritage agency. www.maltairport.com Arrivals, departures, passenger services and weather conditions. www.go.com.mt Online telephone directory. www.transport.gov.mt Official website of the local transport authority, providing information on the islands’ transport system. www.timeout.com Online city and country guides. www.timesofmalta.com The Times of Malta online. www.visitmalta.com General information on Malta and an updated calendar of events compiled by the Malta Tourism Authority. www.maltaweather.com Up to five-day accurate weather forecasts.

166 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16

Getting around Arriving and leaving by air All flights arrive at Malta International Airport (2124 9600, www.maltairport.com). The Maltese islands are only a few hours away from major European cities by air.

The national airline, Air Malta, operates flights to and from many of the major airports in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Other international low-cost carriers operate regular scheduled flights to and from Malta.

Airline contacts Aegean www.aegeanair.com airberlin www.airberlin.com Air France www.airfrance.com Air Malta 2166 2211, www.airmalta.com Alitalia 2132 2992, www.alitalia.com British Airways www.britishairways.com easyJet www.easyjet.com Emirates 2557 7255, www.emirates.com Lufthansa 2125 2020, www.lufthansa.com Ryanair www.ryanair.com Scandinavian SAS www.flysas.com Swiss International Airlines www.swiss.com Transavia www.transavia.com Vueling www.vueling.com Wizz Air www.wizzair.com by sea

5.30am and 11pm, while night buses operate in some areas after this time.

80 routes travel to various hubs, offering connections to places of interest, beaches, hotels and nightlife spots. Timetable leaflets are available for all routes, as well as a free holiday bus map highlighting tourist-specific services. The service runs six express routes (X1, X2, X3, X4, X5 and X7) to various localities from the airport, serving also the Gozo ferry terminal.

Different types of tickets are available from several points of sale: ticket machines at bus stations; ticket offices and/or street ticket sellers at the airport, Valletta, Bugibba, Sliema and Rabat (Gozo) bus stations, as well as other localities; on board; authorised resellers including hotels and online.

Visitors can apply for a personalised ‘tallinja’ bus card online, giving them access to reduced bus fares. The card needs to be booked at least two weeks in advance and a Maltese address, which could also be that of the hotel, needs to be provided. The card will then be delivered directly to an indicated address outside Malta.

Other products are also available for immediate use, including the 12 Single Day Journey card and the Explore 7 Day card. The former allows users to travel for 12 journeys on day services or six journeys on night services or a combination of both for €15.

This card can be used immediately and may be shared and used more than once on the same bus trip.

The Explore 7 Day card offers unlimited travel by bus throughout Malta and Gozo, on all day and night services. It can be used immediately upon purchase and is valid for seven consecutive days from the first validation. The card is valid for one person only and it cannot be shared. The Explore card for adults costs €21 and the one for children costs €15. These cards can be purchased from the ticket booths and from other leading outlets.

A regular ferry and catamaran service links several Italian ports to Valletta.

A number of shipping lines serve some Mediterranean ports as well.

An online journey planner is available at www.publictransport.com.mt.

Shipping line contacts SMS Travel and Tourism www.sms.com.mt Sullivan Maritime 2299 5110, www.sullivanmaritime.com.mt Virtu Ferries 2206 9022, www.virtuferries.com

Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies, too, offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries.

Flight enquiries and schedules The Malta International Airport has a 24hr flight enquiry service (5004 3333, www.maltairport.com). The online schedules are updated every 5mins.

Internal transport The public transport network of buses covers nearly all the islands.

Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You can also enjoy a relaxing boat trip by taking a harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema at half hourly intervals. buses Malta’s bus service is operated by Malta Public Transport. The service runs daily between approximately

car hire

taxis A number of taxi companies offer 24hr taxi services and are fitted with meters.

If you opt to take a taxi from Malta International Airport, pay the fare at the taxi ticket booth in the arrivals lounge and you will receive a ticket showing the destination and fare paid. Hand the ticket to the driver at the end of your journey.

Any complaints should be addressed to Transport Malta (2122 2203).

For an alternative, quick and economic taxi service, take to the sea. Malta Water Taxis operate within various zones around the islands (9993 9443, www.maltawatertaxis.com.mt). travelling to gozo A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30mins.

For information and timetables contact The Gozo Channel Company Ltd (2210 9000, www.gozochannel.com).

Gozo

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Resources

Malta

170 Time Out Malta & Gozo for Visitors 2015/16