FEBRUARY/MARCH 2019 €3 MALTA'S LEADING INDEPENDENT visitors’ guide
A guide to investing in Malta MUST SEE & DO
Enjoy the best of the Maltese islands this season
Nightlife
Unassuming watering holes with big hearts
Exploring MUZA
Malta’s New National Museum of Art
your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping
INSIDE
February/March 2019 page 14
EDITOR Martina Said PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Director of Sales & Business Development Matthew Spiteri Senior Brand Sales Executives Jean Mark Meli, Matthew Sciriha Advertising Sales Coordinator Elena Dimech Art Direction & Design Antoinette Micallef Box Design – T: +356 7969 1212
Grandmaster's Palace - Photo: viewingmalta.com
12 Calendar of Events
The major events taking place in Malta and Gozo throughout February and March 2019.
14 Cover Story
22 Culture
Exploring Malta’s new National Museum of Art – Art and culture enthusiasts, look no further! Martina Said tours Malta’s brandnew National Museum of Art in Valletta to find out what it offers.
Experience Malta at its best – Jo Caruana rounds up the top places to visit and things to do on the islands at this time of year.
page 22 6
Photography Alan Carville, Emmanuel Delicata Winemaker, Esplora, Ian Abdilla, Ian Schranz, Malta Tourism Authority, Niki Caruana, Peter Mercieca, Sarah Micallef, Space for Clay, The Old Smuggler's
Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mrieħel, BKR3000. T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt Published since 2005, Guide Me Malta is the largest and the leading independent guide for visitors in Malta and Gozo. The publication is published every two months. This issue covers the period February to March 2019. Guide Me Malta is distributed free of charge through leading hotels around Malta and Gozo. The publication is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at the MIA and Gozo Channel ferries.
Cover picture: Exhibits at Muża, malta's National Museum of Art Photo: Alan Carville
Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me Malta are not necessarily those of Content House Group and the company does not accept responsibility for advertising content. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.
INSIDE
page 33
Anchor Bay - Photo: viewingmalta.com
February/March 2019 33 Things to Do
Love on the rock – 10 ways to enjoy a romantic holiday in Malta – Whether you’re here for Valentine’s Day or a romantic trip for two, Marie-Claire Grima’s pick of amorous activities on the islands will have you covered.
page 67 53 Eating & Drinking
43 Investing in Malta Guide
Welcome to Malta – your new home – Interested in setting up a business on the island or calling Malta home? Marie-Claire Grima dishes out the most essential information you need to know.
Calling all veggies! Discover Malta’s vegetarian and vegan scene – As veg-based fare continues to surge in popularity, Sarah Micallef delves into the local vegetarian and vegan scene to find out what you can expect of it.
67 Fashion
8 fashion trends to look out for in 2019 – From super dressed down looks to a rise in ecofriendly fashion, Martina Said picks out some of the most notable trends to look out for in 2019.
page 44
72 Nightlife
Photo: Sarah Micallef
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page 53
Cosy boozers with a big heart – Oldschool, unassuming and downright cosy, Rebecca Anastasi selects some of the best, and smallest, watering holes on the island that may easily go unnoticed.
FOREWORD
Welcome to the Maltese islands! ISSUE
83 February/March 2019
Mtaħleb - Photo: Bernice Yoemans - viewingmalta.com
Y
ou’d be forgiven for thinking that February and March on the islands are quiet months (it’s not summer yet, right?). But with a burgeoning calendar of events and mild temperatures all around, it’s a great time of year to explore all that the islands have to offer. If you’re here during Carnival, then you mustn’t miss the festivities across Malta and Gozo, when vibrant floats and festival-goers in full costume take to the streets to join in the fun.
Turn to the cover story on page 14 to find out how you can enjoy Carnival and lots more, and if you’re here for Valentine’s Day, why not indulge in a romantic activity or two? Be it a visit to a vineyard or a night at the theatre, we explore a variety of fun and dreamy options on page 33. For the culture vultures, Malta’s brand-new National Museum of Art, MUŻA, will hit the spot. It houses a venerable collection of art by renowned Maltese and international artists,
and is an absolute must-visit if you’re in the capital, Valletta. Read all about it on page 22. And if your visit to the islands is for business purposes rather than leisure, we’ve also got you covered. Our comprehensive guide to investing in Malta on page 43 will equip you with valuable and useful information for setting up a business here, or for making Malta home. With all this and more, we hope you enjoy the issue.
Martina Said EDITOR
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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2019 1, 2, 8, 9, 10 FEBRUARY Patrick Marber’s Closer – A must-see black comedy of sex, honesty and betrayal. Closer follows the story of Dan, Alice, Anna and Larry, to explore the modern concept of love and how they struggle to find intimacy but can’t seem to get closer. This is the play version of the famous film of the same name. Performed in English. Venue: M Space, Oscar Zammit Street, Msida. www.masquerademalta.com
1-28 FEBRUARY CONVERGENCE by James Vella Clark – A collection of paintings by local artist James Vella Clark, including some recent works that portray a retrospective account of his exploration and gradual move towards abstraction. Convergence is where all the ideas and the layers of experience come together to form something new and unique to what previously was. Venue: Art Galleries, Palazzo de La Salle, Valletta. www.jamesvellaclark.net
3, 10, 17, 24 FEBRUARY, 3, 10, 17, 24, 31 MARCH In Guardia Parade – The In Guardia Parade is a re-enactment that portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside Malta’s major fortifications built by the Order of the Knights of St John. During this event, the fort’s garrison perform their military drill to demonstrate to the Grand Bailiff its state of readiness. The show begins at 11am and lasts 40 minutes. In case of inclement weather or other unforeseen circumstances, this event may be cancelled without prior notice. Venue: Fort St Elmo, Valletta. www.heritagemalta.org
8-24 FEBRUARY CATS The Musical – Hoi Polloi Theatre Productions presents Andrew Lloyd Webber’s world-famous musical, CATS. It tells the story of a tribe of cats that meets on one special night each year to celebrate. It will include some wellloved musical theatre classics including Memory and The Magical Mr Mistoffelees. It is the first time this musical will be staged in Malta. Venue: MITP Theatre, Valletta. www.hoipolloimalta.com
3 FEBRUARY The Gozo Youth Wind Band In Concert – The Gozo Youth Wind Band consists mainly of 50 young Gozitans who, after having pursued their musical studies both in Gozo and Malta on an individual basis, meet regularly in group to prepare exciting and varied repertoires to be performed throughout the year. Entrance is free. Venue: Oratorju Don Bosco, Rabat, Gozo. www.donboscogozo.org
9-10 FEBRUARY Musicals: A Night on Broadway and the West End – Teatru Manoel presents stars from the West End and a number of local musical theatre singers in a collaborative event with the Welsh Musical Theatre Orchestra conducted by Andrew Hopkins. Two concerts will be staged, featuring famous songs from the West End and Broadway. Venue: Teatru Manoel, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
9-10, 15-17, 22-24 FEBRUARY The Acrobat – Agnes Moon’s feel-good romantic comedy The Acrobat (Blood Ties) is being staged for the first time in Malta, in English. This play follows the rags-to-riches story of a professional thief who finds himself trapped in the enormous abode of an incredibly rich and mysterious vampire, who is as seductive as he is lethal. Venue: Spazju Kreattiv, Valletta. www.kreattivita.org
14 FEBRUARY My Funny Valentine – Award-winning British soprano Kateriana Fenech sings an array of musical genres in this intimate vocal showcase. With over two decades’ experience, Kateriana has chosen some famous favourites by Bellini, Puccini, Mozart, Strauss, Gershwin and Porter, to name a few. Tickets include a drinks reception. Venue: The Concert Hall, Palazzo de La Salle, Valletta. www.katerianafenech.com
14-16 FEBRUARY Unforgettable – A Concert by Nico Darmanin – Maltese tenor Nico Darmanin performs swing, jazz and big band classics in a historic location, with live music by the Big Band Brothers, under the musical direction of Daniel Cauchi, and featuring singer Jasmine Abela. Venue: Grand Salon at the National Museum of Archaeology, Valletta. www.ticketline.com.mt
22 FEBRUARY The Boat Film Premiere – Having already caught the eye of international
For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar
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awards festivals and been nominated for Best Director at the National Film Awards UK, Maltese-made film The Boat will have its local premiere on 22nd February. Created by father-son team Winston and Joe Azzopardi, this full-length horror movie will be shown exclusively at the Eden Cinemas in St Julian’s. Check online for show times and further details. www.edencinemas.com.mt
22 FEBRUARY, 29 MARCH Changing of the Guard – The Changing of the Guard Ceremony is held every last Friday of the month in St George's Square, Valletta. The parade commences at 10.30am in the square, where the new guard marches out from the Main Guard in order to replace the old guard that marches out from The Palace down Republic Street. Following the exchange of ‘duties’, the AFM Band conducts a marching display in the square. Venue: St George’s Square, Valletta. www.cityofvalletta.org
27 FEBRUARY Folly, Fantasy & Feeling – A LightHearted Poetry Soirée – Poetry as you have never heard it before! Nicholas de Piro, Alex Manché and other talented artists collaborate to produce an entertaining evening of poetry, music and dancing, while raising funds for the Save Valletta Skyline Appeal. Venue: Salesian Theatre, Sliema. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
1-5 MARCH Carnival 2019 – March brings along Carnival week, which promises extravagantly-coloured floats, bright costumes and merriment in the heart of Valletta, as well as across a number of towns and villages on the island. For an alternative interpretation, visit Nadur,
Gozo, where Carnival takes on a more macabre mood. Venue: Across Malta and Gozo. www.festivalsmalta.com
7-8 MARCH Michael McIntyre – The Big World Tour – Britain’s biggest comedian Michael McIntyre makes his eagerly awaited return to Malta, following his last sell-out event. This show forms part of his Big World Tour, during which he will be playing 104 shows in five continents to over 750,000 people. Venue: MFCC, Ta’ Qali. www.showshappening.com
8 MARCH Women’s Day Concert by Vox Dulcis Chorale – Vox Dulcis Chorale will be performing a selection of jazz, ethnic and other popular songs to mark International Women’s Day. Venue: The Concert Hall, Palazzo de La Salle, Valletta.
15-17, 22-24 MARCH An Inspector Calls – The Malta Amateur Dramatic Club brings JB Priestley’s thriller – considered a major classic of mid-20th century English theatre – to life with a stellar cast directed by Michael Mangion. Performed in English. Venue: Blue Box Theatre, M Space, Msida. www.madc.com.mt
16 MARCH Queen Meets Coldplay – This spectacular concert, performed by the Gozo Youth Orchestra in collaboration with 7 Star Pyramid Productions through Festivals Malta, will feature both the Cash & Band and the Killer Queen Band, a 60-person orchestra, a backing choir and guest singers. It will be a spectacle of music, lights and projections. Venue: Aurora Opera House, Rabat, Gozo. www.teatruaurora.com
8-28 MARCH Where I Lay Down – A Visual Arts Exhibition by Ritty Tacsum – An intimate and personal body of work focusing on the glaringly contrasting ‘spaces’ and places which are the sea (represented through the element of water), and the bed (representing the intimacy of interior spaces). Venue: Art Galleries, Palazzo de La Salle, Valletta. www.rittytacsum.com
15-17 MARCH Macbeth – Shakespeare’s masterpiece tragedy about a soldier overwhelmed by ambition and insecurity will be directed by top UK Director Clive Judd and will star leading local actor Mikhail Basmadjian. Performed in English at the stunning Baroque national theatre. Venue: Teatru Manoel, Valletta. www.teatrumanoel.com.mt
30-31 MARCH Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat – The Musical – Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, with lyrics by Tim Rice and music by Andrew Lloyd Webber, is based on the 'coat of many colours' story of Joseph from the Bible's Book of Genesis. Performed all over the world, this classic musical is set to wow audiences in this popular Gozitan theatre for one weekend only. Venue: Teatru Astra, Rabat, Gozo. www.teatruastra.org.mt
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COVER STORY
Experience malta at its Best While we love the laid-back aura and unending sunshine that summer brings to Malta, it’s this time of year that some of us can’t get enough of. From countryside picnics to long walks on empty beaches, Jo Caruana details the many reasons why this time of year is ideal to enjoy the islands at their very best.
If I am being completely honest, summer isn’t really my thing. Of course, there’s lots to love about it – I mean, who doesn’t want to sip a cool cocktail, sitting in a pool, at sunset? But, for me, Malta is at its very best at this time of year – when the sun is peeping through the clouds, the 14
landscape is still lush and green, and there’s just a little more space for us to spread out and enjoy. With all that in mind, I have put together an exhaustive list of must-dos in Malta, for you to call on as you take your pick from the many brilliant things to see and do here at this time of year.
“Even if the weather is far from perfect, resist the urge to stay in your hotel room and, instead, get out there and explore.”
COVER STORY
Grandmaster's Palace - Photo: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com
Għasri, Gozo - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com Chadwick Lakes
Get Out There Even if the weather is far from perfect, resist the urge to stay in your hotel room and, instead, get out there and explore. Whether you pick the north or the south doesn’t really matter – but you’ll find the Maltese countryside does deserve some attention. In fact, one of my favourite wintery days out includes stopping in Mġarr to pick up a fresh ftira (crusty Maltese bread), filled with tomato paste, tuna, olives, capers and olive oil, before picking a hike destination somewhere along the northern coast – such as Manikata, Mellieħa or Golden Sands. You’ll find the coastline absolutely beautiful and almost completely unspoilt – with plenty of stunning spots to stop to enjoy that ftira.
Discover the History Considering our size, Malta’s history is probably unmatched anywhere in the region. And this is the perfect time to get to know more about it – long before the huge summer crowds descend. Depending on the weather, you can take your pick from a long list of indoor or outdoor options. If the sun is shining, head straight to Haġar Qim – one of the island’s most impressive temple complexes, which dates back to between 3600 and 3200BC. If not, then Valletta is a really good bet as there are lots of museums within easy reach of one another, so you can hop between them. I recommend starting with a visit to the Malta Experience – a film presentation that details all there is to know ➜ 15
COVER STORY
Ħaġar Qim Temple - Photo: viewingmalta.com
about the island’s incredible history, followed by visits to Casa Rocca Piccola, the Archaeology Museum, and the Grandmaster’s Palace. Meanwhile, if you want to learn about Malta’s history in other parts of the island, Mdina and Rabat also have plenty to see. In Mdina, visit Palazzo Falson or the Mdina Dungeons (perfect for families with teens or those with a strong stomach!), and, in Rabat, don’t miss the beautiful Wignacourt Collegiate Museum. Aside from providing
access to the incredible St Paul’s Grotto – the cradle of Christianity in Malta – it also houses an impressive collection of historic art, silver and priceless religious items.
Sample the Cultural Scene Although Malta’s role as European Capital of Culture 2018 has now come to an end, there is still a vast selection of cultural events taking place – including theatre, gigs, concerts, exhibitions and more. Once again, Valletta is a
Wignacourt Collegiate Museum - Photo: viewingmalta.com
Casa Rocca Piccola, Valletta Photo: viewingmalta.com
“Valletta is a really good bet as there are lots of museums within very easy reach of one another, so you can hop between them.”
good place to start as it has the most concentrated selection of venues. Spazju Kreattiv (located within the Knights of St John-era St James Cavalier) is extremely popular; with a number of galleries, a small theatre, and an art-house theatre, there is inevitably something going on. Also nearby is the national theatre, Teatru Manoel, which was built during the Knights’ time on the islands. This is a truly glorious venue and one of the oldest working theatres anywhere in Europe. It’s best to check the website for the latest offerings but, in any given week, you could expect to experience opera, ballet, classical concerts and even a play or two. ➜ 17
COVER STORY
Spazzju Kreattiv - Photo: Elisa von Brockdorff - viewingmalta.com
Dress Up for Carnival March brings another highlight to the island – the annual Carnival. Rooted in history as the last bout
of frivolity before the start of Lent, Malta’s Carnival celebrations take place all over, although the main activities are in Valletta in Malta
and Rabat in Gozo. Features include the huge floats that tour the streets, with performances by local dance troupes. As children are off school for their halfterm holidays at the time, most will dress up in their favourite costumes and join the street parties to watch the celebrations. It can get crowded, but it’s lots of fun. For something slightly alternative (and adult) you can head to Nadur in Gozo – a small village with a Carnival all of its own. There things take on a slightly more gruesome and macabre personality – although costumes and partying still feature. Many Maltese will make a weekend of it, and travel to Gozo to take part in activities that have been enjoyed for generations. Visitors are very welcome too. ➜ Carnival floats in Valletta - Photo: viewingmalta.com
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COVER STORY
The Citadel Bastions, Gozo - Photo: Jürgen Scicluna - viewingmalta.com
Island Hop Depending on how long you’re planning to stay in Malta, I highly recommend planning a day in Gozo – our littler sister island. More laid-back and rural than Malta, Gozo has a personality all of its own, and some visitors even choose to spend their whole holiday there. Ta' Pinu Church, Gozo - Photo: viewingmalta.com
A day trip will give you a good taster. Start by taking the ferry over from Ċirkewwa (with your car, if you have hired one), and then whizzing around the most popular spots, including the capital Rabat, the historic Citadel, the Dwejra inland sea, the Ġgantija Temples, and the seaside town of Xlendi.
Gozo is especially well-known for its foodie offerings, with some of the Maltese islands’ best chefs choosing to base themselves here. So, island hop hungry!
Eat, Drink and Rejuvenate Finally, even if all you’re in the mood for is a little indulgence, you won’t be disappointed. Malta is awash with fantastic restaurants, lovely bars and plenty of spas, with options that include luxury facials, hot stone massages and steam treatments. You’ll find them in the majority of five-star hotels, while Gozo even has its own detox spa – where you can spend a week or more clean eating and exercising to rehash your health routine. So, as you can see, Malta has something for everyone – whatever you’re into. The key is to get out there, explore and discover. Trust me, you won’t regret it! 21
Photos: Alan Carville
CULTURE
Exploring Malta’s New National Museum of Art
If you’re looking for the right cocktail to quench your thirst for culture and art while on the islands, this is your answer. Martina Said tours Malta’s brand-new National Museum of Art in Valletta to find out what it offers. 22
CULTURE It’s only been a matter of weeks since Malta’s National Museum of Art, known as MUŻA, in Valletta opened its doors to the public after more than five years in the making, but the wait was well worth it. From the incredible art collections on display to the stunning building it is housed within – the historic late 16th century Auberge D’Italie, which dates back to the occupation of the Order of the Knights of St John in Malta and continued to be constructed over centuries – there is enough to see and do here to keep you coming back time and again. I meet Sandro Debono, the curator of MUŻA, at the museum’s café, the very same room where the Auberge’s kitchen was originally situated, and which still bears the markings of its labour. “Can you see the arch and black stains in the stone?” asks Sandro, pointing to a corner at the far end of the room. “That is where the oven was,” he says, adding that the building was restored meticulously in order to retain its value and integrity as much as possible. ➜
Portrait exhibits at MUŻA
Les Gavroches by Antonio Sciortino
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CULTURE
Equestrian sculptures by Antonio Sciortino
MUŻA, the flagship project of Valletta2018 – the year in which Malta’s capital city was the European Capital of Culture – replaced the now-defunct National Museum of Fine Arts, which the curator says had an extraordinary collection of works that many people didn’t
know about. “People have asked us where the works have been all this time – they were there, but presented in a completely different way.” The new model for MUŻA, which has re-positioned itself as a national community art museum, is a bespoke one for Malta, aimed
at promoting interaction between the visitors and the exhibits, attracting locals and visitors alike to understand and experience art without feeling intimidated by it. The museum’s exhibits are sprawled across two floors, with an additional floor dedicated to a resource centre. The ground floor also has a tourist information office, a gift shop and ticketing point, a hall for temporary exhibitions, a café and a restaurant. But what does the museum actually offer? Lots, that’s for sure, including marvellous paintings, drawings, sculptures, majolica, furniture and silver by phenomenal Maltese and international artists. Make your way to the entrance to the galleries on the ground floor, but take a moment to feast your eyes on a bronze statue right outside the entrance by renowned Maltese sculptor, Antonio Sciortino, called Les Gavroches, which depicts three poor children on the streets of Paris during the revolution, a sculpture which previously resided at the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta. ➜
Exhibits at MUŻA
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CULTURE
Leah, a marble sculpture by Eugenio Maccagnani
throughout the 20th century. This section of the museum also exhibits works by British abstract artist Victor Pasmore, who arrived in Malta and built a second home here with his family in 1965 and died on the island in 1998. While observing his art, you’ll also be able to listen to the artist talk and laugh, almost as if he’s in the room with you. “Through recordings and video, we reconstructed the experience of Victor Pasmore during his time living in Malta, and thus
Marì tal-Bajd by Esprit Barthet
At the entrance to the galleries, you’ll be greeted by a crowd of faces in the forms of paintings and sculptures, some well-known while others less so, forever immortalised by talented creatives throughout time. This section, or story, of the museum, places an emphasis on the artist. Among the many superb works displayed here are Marì tal-Bajd (Marì the egg-seller) by Esprit Barthet, a self-portrait of Edward Caruana Dingli, as well as a portrait of famed artist Giuseppe Calì by Edward Caruana Dingli, all revered Maltese artists who worked predominantly
humanised the artist and made him more relatable to the visitor,” says Sandro. “MUŻA is exploring these avenues and more, with the aim of offering a dynamic and multilayered experience to visitors.” Another section of this floor is dedicated entirely to Maltese sculptor Antonio Sciortino, who studied and worked in Rome. “There’s a collection of equestrian sculptures by Sciortino at the centre of the room. If you stand in front of them, it feels like a stampede is coming towards you, which reflects the speed depicted in the sculptor’s style. In order for us to reflect that style at the museum, we put together a selection of works that speak the same language,” says the curator. Also in this section is a model of The Monument of the Unknown Soldier by Sciortino, a project which took years to design but never materialised, and the model, together with an extensive collection of sketches and drawings, is all that survives. However, MUŻA created a virtual rendition of the monument, so that visitors can see its modelling on screen. ➜
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CULTURE The vast range of exhibits on the upper floor explores three other stories, which serve as a backdrop for the works exhibited downstairs. Titled Mediterranean, Europe and Empire, all sections are associated with the geography and history of Malta. “In Mediterranean, the works explore mythology, symbolism, religion, faith, beauty and purpose, and works here include paintings by Matthias Stom and Theodoor Van Thulden. In Europe, the works deal with early modern Malta, the period of the Order of the Knights of St John, Valletta as a cultural hub, and the mobility of the artist. Key pieces here include paintings by Guido Reni, Melchiorre Gafà, as well as Valentin de Boulogne. From the latter, we have Judith and Holofernes, a painting that was also on display at the Louvre in Paris.” This story also dedicates a section to Mattia Preti, the Italian Baroque artist who worked for many years and died in Malta, and who helped transform the precious St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta with a vast series of paintings depicting
Works by Victor Pasmore
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the life and martyrdom of St John the Baptist. More of Preti’s works can be found in various parishes across the islands, including the church of St Lawrence in Birgu. The last story at the museum, Empire, features art hailing from the British occupation in Malta. “This section includes various interactive elements, such as a classroom set-up which invites visitors to experience what it was like to be in an art class during that time, and to sketch, be creative and inspired by works on display there,” says Sandro. The works of art at MUŻA range from late medieval to modern and contemporary, sometimes displayed side by side which, although produced in different periods, convey the same message or tackle the same topic. “In all the galleries, there’s a connection between the artist of the past and the artist of the present. Some halls have a greater emphasis on the past, others on the recent past, or modern. There is a dominant period in every story, but the message is that, although a work was produced in the past, it
still has a presence in the present.” Throughout the galleries, visitors can also observe videos displayed on screens that show techniques used in art, ranging from how to paint with oils, to how bronze is cast, and how filigree is made, all featuring Maltese artists in their work space, doing what they love. It is through such ideas, and many more which have yet to take off, that MUŻA aims and aspires to be an inclusive space that makes art accessible to everyone. “Over the coming months, we’ll be working to improve information and access for visitors at the museum, by providing handheld devices, booklets, publications and more, which are crucial elements to make the experience complete,” says Sandro. “We’ll also be launching a programme to collaborate with creatives in Malta, to listen to their ideas, and to continue building and strengthening our relationship with the local community of artists.”
HERITAGE
Mortem
A Roman’s Last Journey
Heritage Malta is inviting adults and children to experience a day of culture and activities at St Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat on Sunday 17th February, which will include hands-on excavations with archaeologists. For the occasion, St Augustine’s Catacombs, which are normally only accessible upon request, will also be open to visitors. These events are inspired by the nine-day Roman festival, Mortem, which commemorated the Roman feast of the Parentalia. From 13th to 21st February, Romans reminisced their ancestors and their departed loved ones. Food is a central theme of Mortem. During the Parentalia, funerary rites were renewed and catacombs hosted commemorative meals known as the refrigerium or agape. Visitors will be able to experience a Roman funeral first hand and taste food based on recipes from that period.
Activities will take place between 9am and 5pm (last entrance at 4.30pm). Price will be reduced to €2 and will include admission to St Augustine’s Catacombs. For more information, visit www.heritagemalta.org
Discover Malta Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta, is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely-built auditorium with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life. Shows are every hour on the hour, and after each show, one can also enjoy a tour of the Sacra Infermeria. Today, this beautiful building is known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, but you can still step back in time and visualise its revolutionary past on a guided tour, and visit the longest hospital ward in Europe, measuring 155 metres in length and holding 247 beds.
The Malta Experience, St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta. www.themaltaexperience.com
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THINGS TO DO
LOVE ON THE ROCK
10 WAYS TO ENJOY A ROMANTIC HOLIDAY IN MALTA Whether you’re here for Valentine’s Day, or are simply looking for some romantic activities to share with your partner during your holiday, Malta and Gozo have plenty to offer lovebirds on vacation. Marie-Claire Grima discovers that there’s something for everyone, no matter what floats your boat!
There’s no disputing that February is the month of love, but even past Valentine’s Day, there are plenty of ultra-dreamy activities on the Maltese islands that are perfect for two to share. From the classic dinner date to more adventurous activities, you certainly won’t be bored during your stay. Here are some of our favourite ideas for a swoon-worthy holiday.
1. Go on a wine tasting tour Malta’s tiny size means that it produces very little wine, and the vast majority of the wine that is made locally is also drunk locally. But if anything, that just makes it more special – where else can you try the delicious flavours of Maltese wine if not in Malta? Most
A Maltese Vineyard - Photo: Emmanuel Delicata Winemaker
of the main wineries on the island organise guided tours and tastings, with the chance to try and buy a number of different wines. It’s the most wonderful date you can dream up for the oenophile in your life.
2. Relax with a couples’ spa date A day at the spa is always a treat, and if you can share it with your favourite person – well, that’s even better. ➜
Handheld guide Download the free iMalta app to help you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.
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THINGS TO DO
Planetarium at Esplora in Kalkara
Many hotels in Malta have spa centres and facilities, and for Valentine’s Day, most of them offer couple packages that are meant to be enjoyed with your special someone. These range from full body scrubs and wraps, to massages, facials, and steam room treatments, as well as manicures, pedicures and more. You’ll emerge feeling totally refreshed and rejuvenated – feeling good means looking good – and possibly, even closer to your partner than ever!
Malta National Aquarium, Qawra - Photo: viewingmalta.com
3. Let science make you tick Are you and your partner just a couple of adorable nerds in love? Do you find learning something new just as heart-fluttering as flowers and chocolates? We’ve got just the ticket. Those who are fascinated by the deep blue sea will enjoy a date at Malta’s National
Dress up to the nines and prepare for a night of music and entertainment in grand style.
Teatru Manoel, Valletta - Photo: viewingmalta.com
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Aquarium in Qawra, where you can see and learn about all sorts of marvellous underwater creatures that lurk under the surface of our seas. More of a space enthusiast? The Planetarium building at Esplora in Kalkara will make you appreciate the enormity of the cosmos, and how lucky you are that you somehow ended up next to your very own star.
4. Enjoy a night out at the theatre Malta’s theatre tradition goes back centuries, and if you’re looking for a cultural yet romantic night on the town, you can do a lot worse than that. You can have a look through the programme of Teatru Manoel in Valletta, Malta’s glorious national theatre, and one of the oldest working theatres in Europe, or if you’re in Gozo, check out what’s on at Teatru Astra, or its equally gorgeous rival, Teatru Aurora. Dress up to the nines and prepare for a night of music and entertainment in grand style. ➜
THINGS TO DO
Anchor Bay, Mellieħa - Photo: viewingmalta.com
5. Savour a sunset stroll Few things are more classically romantic than the sight of the sun setting over the sea, and in Malta, the number of opportunities to enjoy the sunset during a cosy hand-inhand stroll with your loved one, are countless. Our favourite spots include Għajn Tuffieħa, also known as Riviera, Dingli Cliffs in the northern village of Dingli, and Anchor Bay, home to Popeye Village in Mellieħa.
6. Treat yourselves to an intimate dinner for two Shakespeare once wrote that the food of love is music, but sometimes the food of love is just… food. Malta has no shortage of restaurants all over the islands where you can enjoy some truly fantastic culinary delights, as well as each other’s company. Many restaurants will have a special Valentine’s Day menu on the day, while legendary Maltese restaurant Ta’ Marija in the town of Mosta
Ta' Marija Restaurant in Mosta
has prepared an entire Week of Love, featuring a tailored menu as well as four days packed with live entertainment. What’s not to love?
7. Camp under the stars Here’s one for the outdoorsy couples – why not pitch a tent and enjoy the breath-taking beauty of the winter sky? Away from the more urban areas, the stars at night shine like diamonds on velvet, and it’s really a magnificent sight to share with your special someone. Popular camping spots include Mellieħa, Selmun, and the islet of Comino; just make sure you have the necessary equipment and any permits as needed in hand. 8. Gorge on Gozo Malta’s greener sister island has become a destination in its own right, and not just for a day trip. Many visitors to the islands now spend their entire time there, and it’s a lovely option for couples seeking a more peaceful getaway. ➜
Aħrax Chapel, Mellieħa - Photo: William Attard McCarthy - viewingmalta.com
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THINGS TO DO
Photo: Space for Clay
From luxury hotels with all amenities to cosy B&Bs where you can get insider tips from the hosts, there’s no shortage of accommodation options. As for activities, there are endless charming hidden parts of the island to explore, from rural villages to scenic country lanes.
Mġarr Harbour, Gozo
9. Take a ceramics class It’s been nearly 30 years since Demi Moore and Patrick Swayze heated up the big screen over a pottery
Malta has become a booming spot for destination weddings.
Photo: Ian Abdilla
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wheel in Ghost, but the romantic appeal of taking a pottery class together as a couple has not abated. Artisan ceramicists are on the rise in Malta, and many have dedicated studio time where they can give lessons to everyone from beginners to those who are a dab hand with the wheel.
10. Get married Ready to take things to the next level? Malta has become a booming spot for destination weddings, particularly for guests from mainland Europe and North Africa, and you may want to choose this lovely little island to exchange your eternal vows. Malta’s no Vegas though, and even a small wedding will need to be thoroughly vetted, so make sure you book everything you need well in advance, and sort out all the necessary paperwork. Admin isn’t that sexy, but alas – these are the things you have to do for love.
take note
Immigration opportunities in Malta By Dr Malcolm Mifsud, Founding Partner at Mifsud & Mifsud Advocates There are those who, for a variety of reasons, would like to immigrate. Malta has always welcomed foreigners to its shores and throughout the years, has devised schemes that assist families who would like to immigrate here. However, over the past few years, Government has legislated a number of new programmes which allow persons to either adopt Maltese citizenship or else become Maltese residents. A few reasons why Malta is an attractive destination to move to are that Malta offers a comfortable lifestyle, most Maltese nationals speak English, and Malta is a member of the European Union, just to mention a few.
Citizenship In February 2014, a new Legal Notice made it possible for persons to apply for Maltese citizenship by investment. It introduced the Malta Individual Investment Programme, which allows applicants to obtain Maltese citizenship for themselves and for their families. The family includes a spouse or long-standing partner, children, parents and grandparents of the applicant, and their spouse/partner. Therefore, one application can be far-reaching. The application process takes a year to complete and will include a thorough background verification to exclude that the applicants and their family members have been
Dr Malcolm Mifsud
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involved in any criminality. The applicant and his/her dependents would require an international medical insurance and to invest in property either by purchasing a property of a price of not less than €350,000 or else rent for not less than €16,000 per annum. The applicant will be asked to pay a contribution of €650,000, while the spouse will pay €25,000. Other dependents will also be asked to pay a contribution. The applicant will also be asked to invest €150,000 in approved stocks, shares, debentures and other investment instruments.
Malta is an attractive destination to move to – it offers a comfortable lifestyle, most Maltese nationals speak English, and Malta is a member of the European Union.
take note
Malcolm and Cedric Mifsud, Partners at Mifsud & Mifsud Advocates
Residency In August 2015, Government introduced a new programme which allows qualified applicants to permanently reside in Malta and therefore have a visa to travel to Malta at will. This programme is the Malta Residency and Visa Programme. Here, an applicant may also apply for residency for him/herself and for the dependent, such as a spouse or partner, children and the applicant’s and spouse’s parents and grandparents. The applications take a shorter time and average four to six months to be processed. A due diligence is carried out on the applicant and the dependents. The contribution for this programme is somewhat different in that the applicant will be asked to pay €30,000. The applicant also has to invest in property
by purchasing or renting. If he/ she decides to purchase, then the applicant will have to invest €320,000 or €270,000 if the property is in the south of Malta or in Gozo. If the decision is to rent, then the applicant will be asked to rent a property by paying not less than €12,000 per annum and €10,000 for property which is in the south of Malta or in Gozo. This programme also requires that an investment is made in stocks and shares for the value of €250,000.
Tax The citizenship and residency programmes mentioned above are solely immigration programmes, which allow persons outside the EU to travel and reside in Malta. The tax legislation in Malta allows EU and nationals from Iceland, Norway, Switzerland and Liechtenstein to apply for the
Global Residency Scheme, which will allow them to pay 15 per cent on all income received in Malta by the applicant and their dependents, however, with a minimum tax payment of €15,000 per annum. Applicants will have to purchase or rent property in Malta worth €275,000 or else €220,000 in the south of Malta and €250,000 in Gozo. The applicants may rent property at €9,600 per annum, or €8,750 in the south of Malta and in Gozo. Dependents also include household staff. The application cost is €6,000. The Income Tax Act allows a special tax treatment for high-net worth individuals, who can also pay 15 per cent tax on income derived to Malta, but have to pay a minimum of €20,000 for themselves and their dependents. They must invest a minimum of €400,000 in property or rent at a rate of no less than €20,000 per annum. The Income Tax Act also provides for a Retirement Programme. It applies to EU/EEA/ Swiss nationals who receive their pension in Malta and own or rent property in Malta. Applicants and their dependents are charged 15 per cent on any income arising outside Malta that is received in Malta. The minimum tax paid is €7,500 and €500 for each dependent. Mifsud & Mifsud Advocates has a dedicated Immigration Department that assists clients in the above programmes and schemes, and also assists clients to apply for work permits for those who require one. Contact the firm on T: 2123 7172 or E: info@mifsudadvocates.com.mt 41
INVESTING in
MALTA guide
INVESTING IN MALTA GUIDE
WELCOME TO MALTA – YOUR NEW HOME By Marie-claire Grima
For centuries, Malta has welcomed people from all four corners of the globe and all walks of life, who have made this tiny country in the Mediterranean their new home. In the 21st century, it is a trans-continental hub for trade, a popular tourism destination and an overperformer when it comes to hi-tech industries such as financial services and iGaming. Over the past two decades, an influx of expats has made the social and economic landscape truly exciting, diverse and cosmopolitan – could you be the next to join? “My best tip for someone moving to work in Malta is to mingle with the locals and get to know them and socialise with them. Everyone knows everybody and we are like one big family. Hospitality is our thing!” says Kurt Arrigo, General Manager of the Arrigo Group, one of the largest local groups of companies serving the Maltese tourist industry. Whether you’re searching for a fresh start in life, or simply looking to grow your business, Malta could be the stepping stone you’ve been waiting for. But before you pack up your bags and head to the airport, here are some things you need to know.
ABOUT MALTA Population 475,701 Area 316 sqm Currency Euro Real GDP Growth 6.6 per cent Unemployment rate 3.8 per cent
where you can apply for your residence card. To apply for your residence card, you will need Form A and Form ID1A, as well as an original and copy of your passport, your work contract, your Jobsplus employment certificate, and your Maltese tenancy agreement. SETTING UP A BANK ACCOUNT Setting up a bank account becomes a lot easier once you’ve received your residence card. Most banks will require your ID, a letter of reference from a bank or your employer, and a minimum deposit into your account to set it up.
FINDING A JOB Unemployment in Malta is extraordinarily low, and most large companies have vacancies begging to be filled. iGaming, hospitality and financial services are among the easiest industries to find a job, and entry-level work as well as higher-paying, specialised jobs are both abundant. You’ll need a job contract before you get a residence card and set up a bank account. If you’re a non-EU citizen, you’ll need to apply for a residence/work permit at the Department of Citizenship and Expatriate Affairs.
HEALTHCARE Healthcare in Malta is free to all citizens and registered working residents, so once you have your Social Security Number and your residence card you can visit healthcare centres free of charge. If you prefer private healthcare services, health insurance in Malta is relatively inexpensive.
SOCIAL SECURITY AND ID NUMBER Applying for a Maltese Social Security Number is an essential part of becoming a working resident in Malta, and brings you one step closer to applying for a residence card. The resident ID card is extremely important and simplifies a lot of your day-to-day life in Malta. To apply for a residence card, you’ll first need to have your employment status confirmed by Jobsplus. Next you will need to visit Evans Building in Valletta
ALL ABOUT SETTING UP A BUSINESS IN MALTA
With a well-established regulatory environment based on EU law, a favourable tax environment, attractive Government incentives, and a well-educated and highlymotivated workforce, Malta can be a very attractive place for a foreigner to set up a business. “Doing business in Malta does not only mean operating in the European
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INVESTING IN MALTA GUIDE
5. Obtaining licences and a tax identification number Once the trade name is approved and the memorandum and articles of association are filed with the Registry of Companies, the company is almost ready to start operating. However, before that one must also check if any special licences are required. Furthermore, each business in Malta has to have a tax identification number. While this is free, once a year you will need to fill in a tax return form. This is another step where the assistance of a trusted accountant, audit or legal firm is invaluable.
Union, but also gaining access to Africa and the Middle East, as Malta has developed healthy business ties and beneficial fiscal agreements with various countries in these two continents too,” says Mr Arrigo. For those who wish to start a business in Malta, there are seven stages to keep in mind: 1. Deciding between self-employment and setting up a limited liability company A limited liability company gives your business a more trusted face and protects you as a shareholder in case of defective products or lawsuits. On the other hand, there are more bureaucratic steps in creating such a company (as opposed to starting a business as a selfemployed person), such as having an annual audit, so make sure your business is viable before registering it as Ltd. You need to be at least two shareholders to register a company.
6. Getting a VAT number and PE number You also need to register with the VAT Department in order to obtain a VAT number. Furthermore, if you have a limited liability company and you intend on hiring personnel, you also need to register as an employer and obtain a PE number. Both of these steps are free of charge and can be done online.
2. Preparing for registration If you are going to proceed with a limited liability company, then you need to draft the memorandum and articles of association. These documents are important for registration, but they also detail what the company, its shareholders and its directors can and cannot do. It’s very important to identify the right legal firm, accountancy and audit firm, as well as business consultants to guide you during this stage.
7. Registering with Jobsplus Jobsplus is responsible for all employment registration in Malta. You need to fill in a form for each employee upon registration, and again upon termination of each employee. The process is quick and free of charge. Government department Business First can help you with all of these steps, and can be easily reached through their website – www.businessfirst.com.mt or over email.
3. Depositing the minimum share capital Every company needs some capital to start off, however small. As a new business owner, you need to open up a bank account in the company’s name, and inform the bank teller that you are depositing your share capital. The money will go into a holding account until the company is properly registered. The receipt issued will need to be presented in the next stage. 4. Presenting documentation to the Registry of Companies The filled-in company registration form, together with the memorandum and articles of association, and the share capital deposit slip need to be presented to the Registry of Companies. Registration is done within two to three days and the registration fee depends on the size of the company.
Whether you’re searching for a fresh start in life, or simply looking to grow your business, Malta could be the stepping stone you’ve been waiting for.
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INVESTING IN MALTA GUIDE
FINDING THE RIGHT PROPERTY
Once you’ve decided to move to Malta, you’ll set about finding the perfect property for you and your family, or the new headquarters for your business. But what will that involve? } The cost of living in Malta remains lower than most European countries, but rent has become more expensive in recent years. You can expect to pay at least €800 for a flat in a central part of the island, and far more if it’s in one of the more in-demand locations such as Sliema or St Julian’s. Office or commercial spaces have seen less of a spike in prices, but as with homes, are largely dependent on location. } Most people start their search through a property agency such as Dhalia, which is one of Malta’s leading estate agencies. Here you can sort through different kinds of properties, locations and price ranges, and get in touch with the agency to arrange for a visit. However, it’s worth noting that many properties are listed with several estate agents, so you may end up viewing the same property several times if you’re not careful. } Once you’ve viewed a few different properties, settled on one that you want to buy, and your offer has been accepted, you will be asked to sign a promise of sale, known in Maltese as a konvenju. This is a legally binding agreement between you and the seller, and will involve a notary public. } At this point you are obliged to pay 1 per cent of the 5 per cent provisional stamp duty. The total sum is payable upon completion of the sale. You will also need to pay a deposit which is usually around 10 per cent of the agreed sale price. } You don’t need a permit to buy a house here unless it’s a secondary residence. But if you are not a citizen of an EU country then you will need an Acquisition of Immovable Property in Malta by Non-Residents Permit (AIP). } You must also obtain a permit if you are considering renting your property as a holiday home and any earnings must be declared to the authorities for tax purposes.
WHERE SHOULD I LIVE? Malta is a tiny island so it’s easy to believe that it doesn’t matter where you live, since everything is so easily within reach. But slow-moving traffic during peak hours, reliance on private cars, and huge differences between one area of the island and another make it necessary to think deeply about what you want from your new hometown. Here’s a guideline of what to expect from different parts of Malta. Sliema and St Julian’s The natural choice for most expats. These two towns have a large expat community, an exciting social life, and close proximity to many businesses and places of work. However, they’re the most expensive addresses in Malta, and if you’re looking for a quiet place to settle down, they’re probably not it. Central towns such as Birkirkara, Attard and Mosta These areas are located in the middle of the island and have good transport links to most other towns and villages. They are mostly residential, and perfect for raising a family. Buġibba and Mellieħa Plenty of expats – particularly from the UK – live in these towns. Since both of them can be considered resort towns, it’s worth noting that they get particularly hectic in summer with the influx of tourists, but are extremely quiet throughout the rest of the year.
You don’t need a permit to buy a house here if you are an EU citizen unless it’s a secondary residence.
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INVESTING IN MALTA GUIDE
1. Knowing what you need You need to fully understand the role you are hiring for, allowing you to quickly determine who has the experience required to successfully fulfil the role. As for the candidates, it will remove any ambiguity on where they fit within wider business objectives.
Southern areas such as Marsaxlokk, Marsascala and the Three Cities The southern part of the island is worth considering if you’d like to be close to the sea, live in a charming traditional village or town, and don’t want to pay through the nose. However, fewer expats tend to live here, so if you’re in search of a community of fellow emigres, this may not be for you. Having your own transport becomes essential in this case, and learning at least a few words and phrases in Maltese will endear you to the local community.
2. Preparing the job description and person specification They will be one of the first things potential candidates read when they find your job vacancy. Include the key responsibilities that the role will involve, and try to give candidates a feel of who they’d be working with and what is expected of them. You also need to think carefully about where to advertise this position to make sure the right people see it.
Gozo Quiet, peaceful and with plenty of green spaces which Malta is sorely missing, the island of Gozo is accessible via a ferry that leaves Ċirkewwa every 45 minutes. Since the commute may be off-putting, it’s perfect for retirees as well as people who are planning to work from home.
3. Seeking specialist support If you are already struggling to fit everything in during the process of recruitment, you might want to consider outsourcing to a recruitment agency such as Konnekt, Malta’s largest recruitment agency, which has brought together countless jobseekers and companies in a perfect match.
THE RIGHT RECRUITMENT STRATEGY
Now that you’ve set up your business in Malta, the next stage is hiring people. With unemployment being so low, and a comparatively small talent pool to select from, finding the right people can be a challenge. Here are a few things to keep in mind during the quest for your star candidates.
4. Conducting interviews At the interview stage, the most important points to cover include CV or application highlights, and of course, key requisites for the role. With recruitment pools becoming increasingly international, video and telephone interviews may be just as good at identifying promising candidates as face-to-face conversations.
Learning at least a few words and phrases in Maltese will endear you to the local community.
5. Checking references, drawing up a contract and offering the job Once you have shortlisted your top candidates it’s time to check their references. It’s essential to check your candidates’ background – hiring the wrong person can be extremely damaging to the company, as well as a huge waste of money. 6. Welcome the newest member of the team It’s never fun being the new person, but as long as your company is friendly, welcoming and patient, you’ll make a good impression early on, and quickly gain your new employee’s loyalty.
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TAKE NOTE
TAKE NOTE 12.30pm in Malta and from 7.30am to 11am in Gozo. Details of the roster are available on the local Sunday newspapers.
BANKS AND CURRENCY EXCHANGE Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm Mon-Thur, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Fri, and up to noon on Sat. Some banks open for longer hours. International bank cards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands. USEFUL AND EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NOS 00356 International Code 112 Emergency Services 1182 Directory Enquiries 1152 Overseas Operator 195 Time Check 2124 9600 Flight Enquiries TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES IN MALTA Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: Valletta 28, Melita Street. T: 2291 5440/1/2 Malta International Airport Arrivals Lounge, Luqa. T: 2369 6073/4 Gozo, Mġarr Gozo Channel Ferry Terminal. T: 2155 4538
Gozo, Rabat 17, Independence Square. T: 2291 5452/3 Marsaxlokk Xatt is-Sajjieda. T: 2165 1151 Mdina St Publius Square. T: 2145 4480 Mellieħa Misraħ Iż-żjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II 26 ta’ Mejju 1990. T: 2152 4666 Sliema Info Desk Plaza Commercial Centre. T: 2136 3691 St Paul’s Bay Misraħ il-Bajja (Buġibba). T: 2141 9176 Valletta Waterfront Pinto Wharf. T: 2122 0633 Birgu (Vittoriosa) Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Street. T: 2180 0145
Public hospital in Malta Mater Dei Hospital, B’Kara By-pass, B’Kara. T: 2545 0000; E: mdh@gov.mt Public hospital in Gozo Gozo General Hospital, Rabat. T: 2156 1600 CHEMISTS Chemists are found throughout the islands and are open during normal shopping hours. On Sundays they operate on a roster from 9am to
SMOKING No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a designated smoking area. POSTAL SERVICES Most towns and villages have post or sub-post offices. Branch Post Offices in Malta and Gozo are open between 7.30am and 12.45pm Mon-Sat. Sub-Post Offices are open between 8am and 1pm, and 4pm and 6pm MonFri, and between 8am and 1pm Sat. Stamps can be bought from post offices, local newsagents, souvenir shops and hotels. ELECTRICITY The electrical supply is 230 volts, 50 hertz. The three-pin rectangular plug system is used, as in Britain. Adapters are very easy to find. TIPPING Gratuities are usually in the region of 10-15 per cent, as in most European countries. As a rule of thumb: taxi drivers – not expected, but up to 10 per cent; porters – €0.50 per piece of luggage; restaurants, unless a service charge is added to the bill, 10 per cent.
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EATING & DRINKING
Calling all
veggies!
Discover Malta’s vegetarian and vegan scene Following a vegan or vegetarian diet on the Maltese islands may have been tough some years back, with very few options to speak of unless you were preparing your own meals. Today, however, thanks to a worldwide surge in interest in veg-based fare, local establishments have finally taken notice, creating a very different reality. Sarah Micallef delves into Malta’s vegetarian and vegan scene.
Asking for vegan or vegetarian options in a local restaurant no longer means being met with a shrug and a sigh. Rather, more and more eateries are working hard to expand their veggie offerings on the islands, putting an emphasis on dishes that taste great without meat and animal products – which is great news if you’ve taken the plunge, for whatever reason! And while this may have been unheard of just a few short years ago, in reality, if you were to step back in time to the roots of local cuisine, you may be surprised to discover that a predominance of veg-based dishes couldn’t be more natural to our islands. The Maltese would rely on vegetables
and fish for the majority of their meals in the past, with vegetables often taking centre stage. This stands to reason, given the abundance of seasonal produce at this time of year – and that includes lots of green veggies, which play a starring role in countless Maltese dishes. Broad beans (locally known as ful), for example, become common as the winter makes way for spring, making their way into several hearty seasonal dishes which are also, incidentally, meat-free. A personal favourite is kusksu, a broad bean soup made with onions, peas, tomato paste and small pasta beads, and which is sometimes served
Qaqoċċ mimli (stuffed artichokes) - Photo: Sarah Micallef
with a local ġbejna (cheeselet) and an egg. For a vegan take on this local dish, all you need to do is bypass the ġbejna and egg, although alternatives do exist too – use a vegan egg replacement to give this dish added flavour. Another favourite winter warmer is soppa ta’ l-armla (widow’s soup) – a popular local dish made with all the greens available during the season, including cauliflower, cabbage, spinach, broad beans and peas. As in kusksu, the traditional method of preparing the dish calls for the addition of a sheep’s milk cheeselet as well as a poached egg, but these are easily replaced or done away with altogether. ➜ 53
EATING & DRINKING
Spinach pie - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com
The king of all traditional veggie-based soups has got to be minestra, a vegetable soup containing every seasonal vegetable locals can get their hands on. But the king of all traditional veggie-based soups has got to be minestra, a vegetable soup containing every seasonal vegetable locals can get their hands on. Think cabbage, cauliflower, onions, carrots, pumpkin, celery and potatoes, as well as broad beans, favetta (field beans) and pasta. That’s right – this dish is entirely vegan. Other local specialities which include delectable broad beans are qassatat (filled pastry) and torti (pies), although these may be more suited to vegetarians rather than vegans, unless you’re making them yourself, in which case you’d simply need to switch out the pastry with a vegan option. Popular fillings for traditional qassatat include spinach and anchovy, which can just as well be left out for a vegetarian take. Meanwhile, popular meat-free pies include the torta tal-ġbejniet (cheeselet pie), which is generally made using fresh cheeselets which are mashed and mixed with a few eggs, parsley, broad beans and peas, as well as Malta’s take on pumpkin 54
pie, known locally as torta talqargħa ħamra. This delicious pie is traditionally filled with a mixture of pumpkin, tuna, olives, capers and rice, though I’m willing to bet it’s just as nice without the tuna. More veg-based dishes made using seasonal favourite broad beans include side dishes and accompaniments, like the popular ful imgiddem and bigilla, which can be shop-bought or made fresh at home. Ful imgiddem consists of broad beans which are split in two and cooked in garlic, oil, water and parsley, whereas Malta’s famous bigilla dip is made with small broad beans which are boiled and mashed with garlic, oil, parsley and a little chilli. Both can be enjoyed spread over crunchy Maltese bread or with local galletti (water crackers). And there’s more. While a few of Malta’s celebrated dishes do include some element of meat or fish, some can easily be made vegetarian by removing or replacing one or two ingredients. With qaqoċċ (globe artichokes) season
approaching, the traditional Maltese recipe of stuffed artichokes calls for the gaps between the leaves to be filled with a mixture of onions, garlic, parsley, tuna and anchovies, but this works just as well without the fish. In fact, our version at home includes crusty Maltese bread and olives rather than tuna. Finally, another local favourite that can be made meat-free is ross il-forn (baked rice), which is traditionally made with rice, beef and tomato sauce. The beauty of this dish is the crisp baked top, which contrasts wonderfully with a soft middle layer, and the best part is, it doesn’t even need the meat to taste great! Instead of minced beef, opt for diced aubergine or mushroom drizzled with olive oil and voilà, delicious vegetarian ross il-forn! ➜ Ricotta qassata - Photo: Rebecca Cachia - viewingmalta.com
Bigilla - Photo: Gino Galea - viewingmalta.com
EATING & DRINKING
6 top spots for vegan or vegetarian food on the islands If you’re here on holiday and aren’t too keen on preparing your own food (I wouldn’t blame you!), eating out is the way to go. More and more local restaurants are catering to special diets than ever before, and it always helps to look out for Vegan Malta Approved stickers when choosing where to go for your next meal. Apart from that, there are some great, exclusively vegetarian and vegan spots in Malta and Gozo to grab some grub on the go. Here are our top six. 1. The Grassy Hopper Choose between their welcoming café in Gżira (just outside of shopping hub Sliema) and their take-away shop in Malta’s capital of Valletta for a delicious selection of fresh and healthy veg-based dishes. The menu includes salads, brown rice bowls, wraps, sandwiches and juices, with several vegan options available too. San Ġorġ Street, Gżira 2. Juuls Kitchen Set within Jah Ruulz Reggae Bar (previously Juuls), this café offers a relaxed vibe and pretty view from the outside terrace. It’s the perfect spot for a great selection of mostly vegan and some vegetarian dishes, smoothies, juices and loose leaf teas. 7, St Joseph Street, St Julian's
3. Gugar It doesn’t get more laid-back than this café in Valletta. Hang out at one of the tables positioned towards the end of Republic Street or in its hippiestyle basement as you sample something from its small but tasty menu of vegan and vegetarian sandwiches, burgers, dips and smoothies. You can also request soya or almond milk to replace regular milk in smoothies. 89, Republic Street, Valletta 4. Green Mood Over on the sister isle, this delightful restaurant offers a simple menu of soups and salads. The unique concept here centres on do-it-yourself seasoning – you choose a soup or salad, and season it to your liking from a provided selection of spices. 11a, Republic Street, Rabat (Gozo)
5. Pure Living While this cool café doesn’t serve exclusively vegetarian and vegan dishes, its menu comprises veg-based dishes for the most part, with some also including fish, egg and chicken. Check out their great choice of burgers, wraps, gluten-free sandwiches, soups and salads, as well as superfood smoothies and cold press juices. Windsor Street, Sliema 6. Sottozero This one’s a bonus! If you’re vegan and have a hankering for ice-cream, head over to Sottozero, which is easily one of the best-loved gelato places on the island. It has an amazing selection of vegan flavours including blackberry, mandarin, kiwi, pistachio and black chocolate. Spring Street, Buġibba and The Strand, Sliema
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EATING & DRINKING
La Sorpresa La Sorpresa is a family-run restaurant and pizzeria where customers are welcomed like friends and family. Colin and Doreen pride themselves on making consistent, high-quality food and service a priority. La Sorpresa restaurant offers both a Mediterranean-based à la carte menu, as well as a variety of set menus designed to suit every guest’s preferences. Our à la carte menu includes pasta dishes, mouth-watering steaks and other carvery dishes, fresh local fish, homemade pizzas, traditional Maltese dishes and other special dishes which change frequently. Our little guests have their own kids menu and gluten-free options are also available. Open Monday to Saturday 6-11pm; Sunday 11.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. La Sorpresa, Tourists Street, Buġibba. Contact Nicholas Farrugia on T: 2157 7301; M: 7925 4324.
Luna – The Restaurant at Palazzo Parisio The Luna Restaurant combines a variety of culinary concepts set in one of Malta’s finest privately-owned stately homes. Every corner assures you luxury, grace, elegance and a taste of history by the mouthful, offering breakfast, snacks, lunch, traditional English afternoon tea or dinner. Choose between the sublime interiors and the beautifully shaded tables on the garden terrace basking beside fragrant orange blossom and flamboyant bougainvillea. Luna, in all its forms, offers relaxation and understated luxury in an incredible and refined ambience. 29, Victory Square, Naxxar. Book your table on T: 2141 2461 Ext 2; E: fb@palazzoparisio.com; www.palazzoparisio.com
Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented by great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti (water crackers). Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives). Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s. T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.co.uk
Old Bakery’s Kitchen This little café-style restaurant is great for casual meals from a small menu which offers gourmet burgers, pasta and pizza. The pizza is made fresh in a pizza oven right in front of customers, and only fresh egg pasta is used. Old Bakery’s Kitchen is the perfect, quaint little eatery to visiit while exploring Valletta’s charming streets. Old Bakery’s Kitchen, 28A, South Street, Valletta. T: 2123 3983; M: 7780 5312; E: oldbakerys@gmail.com
59
EATING & DRINKING
Palazzo Preca Restaurant Palazzo Preca Restaurant is repeatedly awarded as one of the best restaurants in Malta and Gozo. It is situated in one of the best-known historic streets in Valletta, within a beautiful 16th-century palazzo in Strait Street. An extensive and creative menu provides mouth-watering choices of food and fine local and foreign wines – and do not miss out on our delicious home-made desserts! Professional, dedicated and attentive staff will ensure that your visit is a completely enjoyable experience. Wednesday is our special night when the lights are turned off and the restaurant is entirely lit by candles, creating an intimate and romantic ambience. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12.30-3pm; 6.30-10.30pm. During winter, open for lunch on Sunday and closed for dinner. Bookings are recommended and are to be confirmed by phone. Palazzo Preca, 54, Strait Street, Valletta. T: 2122 6777; M: 9986 6640; www.palazzoprecarestaurant.com
Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s famous braġjoli (beef olives), thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit, and for those with a sweet tooth, the deliciously crunchy imqaret – a must-try date-filled pastry. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. Everything at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique setting of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best-rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Booking is recommended. Set menus for special occasions can also be arranged upon request. Open Monday to Sunday 12.30-11pm. Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema. T: 2133 7367; M: 7933 7367; www.takrisrestaurant.com
Ta’ Marija Celebrating more than five decades of excellence, Ta’ Marija restaurant offers the ideal venue for colleagues, friends and family to celebrate any occasion with sumptuous food in welcoming surroundings, complemented by our exceptional service and merrymaking. Enjoy our all-inclusive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and Sunday lunches for just €27.50 per person, or indulge in a Maltese extravaganza every Wednesday and Friday evening with a spectacular traditional folk dancing show and our mandolin and guitar duo! You may also choose to dine al fresco, enjoying views of the Mosta Dome, whilst savouring one of our signature cocktails and exquisite degustation menus. Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; www.tamarija.com.mt
Terrone Terrone is a restaurant in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk that combines rustic charm with contemporary regional cuisine. Focusing on southern Italian and local Maltese cuisines, and hand-picking the best local and organic produce, we aim to recreate a healthy and enjoyable way of dining. We are open every day for lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast on weekends (8-10.45am). The restaurant is situated on the Marsaxlokk seafront. Open Monday to Friday noon-11pm, Saturday 8am-11pm, Sunday 8am-10pm. Terrone, 1, Wilġa Street, Marsaxlokk. T: 2704 2656; E: info@terrone.com.mt; www.terrone.com.mt
60
EATING & DRINKING
Ferdie’s Cocktail Bar & Restaurant Located on one of the main roads leading to Mġarr Harbour in Gozo, and with a stunning view of the harbour, you’ll easily be able to spot Ferdie’s Restaurant once you’re on the road as you leave the ferry. Tables are well spaced in its spacious indoor seating area, and the décor is cosy and modern, complemented with vibrant furnishings and modern paintings. A separate bar area complements the restaurant and gives it a more intimate feel for those
who wish to meet over a glass of wine, a cocktail or even dine in privacy. The menu offers a variety of food and flavours, ranging from paella to mouth-watering ribs, pan pizzas and steaks, as well as weekly specials. Ferdie’s is also well known for its home-made desserts. The restaurant’s owner, Ferdinand, has been awarded the Gozo Tourism Association Entrepreneurship Award 2018 for his achievement throughout the year that he has been in business.
Ferdie’s Cocktail Bar & Restaurant, Mġarr, Gozo. M: 7992 7316.
WHERE TO SPEND IT
The Point Shopping Mall Celebrating NINE years of growth and success
Since opening its doors in 2010, The Point Shopping Mall has become Malta’s favourite shopping destination, attracting 2.5 million local and overseas visitors every year. Exuding a stunning five-star ambience, it offers a wide variety of shops in the latest range of fashion, beauty, health, lifestyle, and food outlets for convenience and shopping pleasure. The Point hosts family retailers such as flagship store Debenhams, Marks & Spencer and Costa, alongside designer boutique stores like Armani Exchange, Lacoste, Guess, CK Jeans, Tommy Hilfiger, Massimo Dutti, Ted Baker, Polo Ralph Lauren and Tru Trussardi. More affordable, trendy and fast fashion brands like New Look, River Island and Bershka are also available, together with sportswear retailers such as Adidas and Nike. The Point’s extensive array of food outlets has also
been handpicked to appeal to a cross-section of tastes and budgets. Ample parking with 24-hour security completes a package that is the last word in comfort, service and convenience for The Point’s visitors.
The Point Shopping Mall, Tigné Point, Sliema. www.thepointmalta.com
FASHION
Step into Spring with
Charles & Ron Charles & Ron is a contemporary lifestyle brand of high-end clothing and bags with a distinct Mediterranean flair and a dedication to superior quality. Maltese culture is an integral part of the Charles & Ron design ethic, and the brand‘s vision is to inspire customers to be part of the ‘love affair’ with the brand’s instantlyrecognisable Mediterranean style. Mediterranean identity “Malta has always been of enormous inspiration to our work, and throughout the years, we’ve enjoyed designing with inspiration from the Mediterranean and all it offers. For us, it’s important to incorporate certain aspects of culture, architecture and tradition, and
show them in a different and unexpected way. We’ve incorporated these references into our brand since the beginning – they define us as a brand, and it’s important to embrace and appreciate your heritage.”
Celebrities and feminine shapes “In the past year, we’ve had the pleasure of dressing many international celebrities, including singer Jessie J, Kelly Rowland, Nathalie Emmanuel (Game of Thrones), singer Ashanti, Ally Brooke (Fifth Harmony) and Michelle Williams (Destiny’s Child). These moments have been
very satisfying for us as designers, however, we take pride in designing for all women. The Charles & Ron woman does love statement pieces with a feminine silhouette and is never afraid to stand out in a crowd.”
The importance of accessories “Key items in our range are our Malta-inspired luxury scarves and our leather bags. Our handbags are made from the finest Italian leather and handcrafted in Malta. By taking home one of our bags and/ or scarves, you will truly be taking home the spirit and beauty of the Maltese islands!”
Charles & Ron, 58D, Republic Street, Valletta. T: 2124 0184. Minus3, The Point Shopping Mall, Sliema. T: 2015 1706. Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, Attard. www.charlesandron.com 65
FASHION
fashion trends
2019
to look out for in
Topshop
This year’s sartorial trends range from incredibly dressed down to fashion forward, with quite a few variations in between, as Martina Said discovers.
1. Athleisure 2.0 Designers have taken a sharp turn towards comfortable dressing in recent years (in case the rise and rise of sneakers wasn’t a clue already). In 2019, however, they’re taking things to new heights (or lows?), in the form of skintight cycling shorts, reflective tracksuits and all kinds of training gear worn as outerwear.
Mango
2. Loose-fitting denim After mom jeans, skinny jeans, high-waisted and straight-leg denim, a new style is taking hold, and it will bring back memories for many. Wide-legged denim – a style which is not quite a boot leg, but flared from the hips – is expected to be big this year, if you dare to ditch your skinnies. ➜ Bershka Fendi
67
Hit the shops
FASHION
Check out Malta’s top shopping destinations. VALLETTA Our stunning capital city offers so much more than history and architecture. In and around the beautiful Baroque buildings that line the city’s streets lie several high-street outlets for a dose of retail therapy amid the culture and history lessons. Don’t miss: Republic Street and Merchants Street
SLIEMA Sliema is the undisputed shopping centre of Malta. Look out for the main streets that house a variety of highstreet and designer brands, as well as the islands’ biggest shopping malls. Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall
ST JULIAN’S Marc Jacobs
3. Suiting up The drive for equality and women’s empowerment cannot be reflected any more clearly in fashion than in this trend: the sharp suit with large shoulders. Whether worn with a mini skirt, shorts, fitted trousers or wide-legged palazzo pants, the powershoulder suit, as seen on the runways of Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford, is a wardrobe staple for Stella McCartney women in 2019. 68
Stella McCartney
4. Fake fur The fact that fake fur has made it to a list of trends for the year, after decades of designers using real fur of all kinds, is monumental. The fashion industry is finally becoming more aware of its impact on the planet, and a slew of designers, from Stella McCartney to Givenchy, are leading the pack.
For the more discerning shopper, the area opposite the upmarket complex of Portomaso is home to a selection of designer shops that beckon you to explore what’s on their beautiful rails. A shopping complex just down the road from the nightlife capital of Paceville is also open on Sundays. Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso
5. Cowgirl Bring out your inner cowgirl thanks to the Western fashion trend that’s expected to be popular this year, by way of Wild West details, cowboy boots, belted waists, fringe details and oversized cowboy hats. ➜ Isabel Marant
FASHION
Burberry
6. Bum bags For those 80s and 90s kids who recall the love-it-or-hate-it fanny pack, now also referred to as the bum bag, we’re here to say that they’re back with a bang. If you hated them then, there’s a chance you’ll learn to like them now – designers the likes of Burberry and Louis Vuitton have given them a fashionable twist using fine leathers and fancy finishes and fabrics. Wandler
Alexander McQueen
Massimo Dutti
Isabel Marant
7. Oversized puffer jackets There’s no better time to embrace this trend than right now, at the height of winter. Big, bulky and oversized puffer jackets were all over the fall/winter 2018/19 runways, ranging from the quilted versions at Alexander McQueen to the more classic, toned down versions at Chanel.
8. Over-the-top frills Dramatic frills, flounces and ruffles were big on the runways, and no one did it more theatrically than Marc Jacobs. But if you’re after a modest version of the trend, you’ll find plenty of highstreet collections showcasing ruffle details on tops, dresses, skirts and shirts, which offer a decidedly feminine yet fashionable touch. 71
NIGHTLIFE
Cosy boozers with a big heart Old-school and unpretentious, many of Malta’s tiniest watering holes promise a good plonk in brooding, minute settings, and the perfect vibe to hunker down on cold, windy nights. Rebecca Anastasi has the best in class of toasty spots to wet your whistle.
This island knows that great things come in small packages, and it’s no different with intimate watering holes, which punch above their weight in first-rate booze. From cocktail temples and quirky joints, to celebrated pubs and tiny establishments, ready to pull the perfect pint, we’ve scoured the island for the warmest spots to get a round in with a lively crowd. Bottoms up!
A historic haunt in the capital On 2nd May 1999, hellraiser Oliver Reed walked into The Pub on Archbishop Street in Valletta. He was in Malta filming Ridley Scott’s epic Gladiator when he stopped in with his wife and some Maltese friends, and tragically died of a heart attack at the very same pub. For many years later, this boozer – a typical English pub, replete with bare-brick walls, dim lighting and wooden panelling – was infamous as the place Reed 72
had consumed his last drink. “We were once voted the fifth most legendary pub in the world due to our fittingly macabre connection to the infamous Oliver Reed!” Nathan Brimmer, The Pub’s current landlord, says. But, this cosy, bighearted hangout, which was first opened in 1979 by a set designer for film and television, offers much more than lurid tales of celebrity. “Walking in is literally like stepping into any UK drinkers’ pub. We boast a very decent selection of over 20 draught and bottled beers, a wide and varied choice of whiskies, gins and rums, and a few other essentials,” Nathan explains. A lively crowd gathers every night, especially at the weekend – with loyal patrons lining the hightables outside on warm, balmy days – to take a swill of their muchloved, reasonably-priced brews, and to indulge in the bustling cheer this haven of pub purists provides. “Banter and camaraderie are free! Anytime you need your
The Pub
NIGHTLIFE
Café Society - Photo: Niki Caruana
Café Society - Photo: Peter Mercieca
thirst quenched or just feel like having a chat with people is an ideal time to come,” Nathan smiles. No food is on offer – “apart from Guinness” – but the range of drinks is more than enough to satiate. Indeed, over the years, it has continued to attract celebrities visiting the Maltese islands. “John Cleese paid The Pub a visit recently and I know this through various snapshots I’ve seen on people’s phones. But the bartender on duty completely failed to recognise him! We get a fair few celebrities in for a quiet drink and happily respect their privacy, but, in this case, it was completely accidental,” Nathan laughs.
Music and craft cocktails Homegrown talent has also made itself at ease in the capital’s drinking spots, with many of Valletta’s bohemian crowd peppering the gin caves and off-the-wall bars long after the witching hour has passed. Steps away from St John’s Co-Cathedral, Café Society may share a name with Woody Allen’s cinematic outing, but it’s better known in Malta as the spot offering stand-out mixed drinks, an eclectic crowd and live music. The bar, which was opened in August 2015 by three friends – Tom Devenish, Michael Carbone and Alex SpiteriGingell – has become the haunt of
Café Society - Photo: Alan Carville
choice for Malta’s artists, musicians, filmmakers and writers. “It’s the wrong place for the right people,” Tom smiles, describing the “amazing location with picturesque views of the harbour, the signature craft cocktails using fresh ingredients, and the alternative music policy” as reasons why this fashionable dig attracts punters night after night. And, the line-up of daily events on offer – live blues music on Mondays, chess competitions on Tuesday, jazz on Wednesdays, films screenings or art events ➜ 73
NIGHTLIFE
Music is the cornerstone of any good evening at this small haven, which can get rammed on Wednesdays and Fridays.
on Thursdays, and the weekend offering up a smorgasbord of funky disco, electronica and experimental sounds – guarantees a diverse, and entertaining week for anyone venturing into the capital. The distinct flavour of Café Society extends to the concoctions of gin, whiskey, rum and vodka, regularly mixed and guzzled “at friendly prices”, Tom says. Here you can find the Basil Fawlty, a gin-based cocktail made with basil, lime and syrup, the rum mixed drink Club Tropicana, boasting fresh ginger, lime, syrup and orange, as well as a sharp Whiskey Sour – egg included! These, together with a wide range of craft beer, will prove to be good friends as the sun goes down. And soon, Tom promises, Café Society
“will start providing delicacy nibbles” to its roaring trade of patrons, who, come rain or shine, mingle in this joint’s cosy interiors or outside on the limestone steps.
Taking it easy in the heart of town Across the harbour, nestled in the cosmopolitan heart of Sliema, where multi-storey modern blocks cast their long shadows over the waterways and small streets, Hole in the Wall offers a laid-back vibe which is often difficult to find in this neck of the woods. The corner watering hole, which first opened in 1922, is now being run by brothers Ian and David Schranz who bought it off longtime owner Freddie Bartolo, when they saw an ad on Facebook. ➜
Hole in the Wall - Photos: Ian Schranz
75
NIGHTLIFE
We are actually busier during the week than on weekends because our crowd comes after work.
The Old Smuggler’s
“We bought the bar very randomly. The former owner put up a Facebook post saying that they wanted to sell, and I jokingly told my brother that we should buy it. Within 24 hours we accidentally did. Then we figured that we have zero bar experience, which turned out to be a good thing in the end,” says Ian, who is also a member of the popular band Beangrowers. And, indeed, it did, pushing the brothers to make up their own rules and moulding the joint in their own image. Music is the cornerstone of any good evening at this small haven, which can get rammed on Wednesdays and Fridays, and the boozer has hosted many performances, including experimental ‘in the can’ shows during which the audience listens to bands playing live via wireless 76
headphones. Canadian band, Burning Hell, even dropped in for a drink once while they were in Malta – and played a secret concert. “The band randomly asked to perform at the bar. They were here since they had a show in Sicily. And, they enjoyed it and loved our audience so much that they kept playing and had the crowd singing along all night!” Ian recalls, adding that the Schranz brothers “have books full of funny stories” such as these. Sundays and Mondays offer a quieter experience, while smaller “intimate concerts” take place on Tuesdays. The bar offers a range of tipples – all reasonably priced – and “fun and super spicy toasties” are served for those whose evening out isn’t complete without a bite to eat. “It’s a genuinely relaxed hangout. We value what we do over and above money,” Ian enthuses.
A local favourite in the suburbs Balzan, an ever-burgeoning village in the centre of the island, may be far from the bar-lined promenades of Sliema and St Julian’s, or the bustling eateries and boozers of the capital, but its charm lies in its homely corners and lived-in vibe. And, here, perched on a tree-lined avenue, The Old Smuggler’s bar and restaurant is a popular haunt with the locals and a pit-stop for all the nine-to-fivers heading home after a long day at the office. “I think what makes the bar unique is its location. It’s situated in
a village – a residential area – and we have many regular customers who feel comfortable coming here alone, after work. There’s a very friendly environment – and parking is usually easy to find!” Zach, the current owner of the 60-year old joint explains. While the bar originally opened as a hanut tat-te, a traditional Maltese tea shop, its current metamorphosis offers smokier drinks, popular on a cold winter’s night. “We are mostly known for our large range of whiskies – blends as well as single malts,” Zach explains. However, in the warmer months, this watering hole boasts a wide range of gins to lighten the taste buds. Wine is also poured here – whatever the time of year. “We try to pair our wine with what’s on our menu, so that varies a little. Our food menu is quite small, but we try to change it every few months or so.” Indeed, this tiny, down-to-earth local offers a small array of pasta specialities, packed burgers and melt-in-the-mouth steaks, as well as lighter snacks for lunchtime, all of which have pulled in the crowds. “We are actually busier during the week than on weekends because our crowd comes after work. Monday tends to be quieter, while Fridays are always fun since there’s a bit of hustle and bustle. But it can be quite unpredictable, so you never know,” Zach says. And, the joy is in the discovery – of these more intimate, laidback and memorable joints you might have overlooked.
TAKE NOTE Photo: Anthony Vella - viewingmalta.com
Getting Around
M
alta is about 27 kilometres long and 14.5 kilometres wide. Short distances make it possible to make the most of your stay at a relaxed pace. The network of buses within the public transport system covers nearly all the islands. Car hire rates in Malta are good value. You may also enjoy a relaxing trip on the calm, blue Mediterranean Sea by taking an island or harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema by ferry at half hourly intervals.
Look out for
reduced bus fares through the 12 Single Day Journey Card and the Explore 7 Day Card
BUSES The public transport services offered in the Maltese islands operate on a network offering multiple connections and main termini in Malta’s capital, Valletta, and Gozo’s capital, Rabat. A total of 80 different routes link the different localities in Malta to either major hubs such as Valletta, Mater Dei Hospital and the airport or to other destinations, while 15 routes operate in Gozo. The public transport service runs daily between 5.30am and 11pm, with express routes (designated with an ‘X’) having limited stops and operating to and from the airport from different localities. Three digit routes link different localities together and, in most cases, do not serve Valletta. A journey planner, timetable information and details on bus fares are available at www.publictransport.com.mt. More details on T: 2122 2000 and on page 81.
TRAVELLING TO GOZO A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30 minutes. For information and time-tables contact The Gozo Channel Company on T: 2210 9000, or visit www.gozochannel.com CAR HIRE Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies too offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries. TAXIS All taxis are fitted with meters and should charge government-controlled prices. Any complaints should be addressed to the Public Transport Authority on T: 2143 8475. A number of private companies also offer competitive chauffeur-driven services. 79
0
1
,
101
Legend
2
3 km
1
51
52 56 181
56
1
20
Il-Buskett
202
9
10
X3 ,182 181
9
Ħaż-Żebbuġ
61
Ħ’Attard
72
74
Ħaġar Qim
74
74
7 11
71 73 74
7
11
Ħal Luqa
Ħal Safi
8
21
15
21
Il-Birgu (Vittoriosa)
X4
88 226
, 19
1
85
X4
Ħal Far
210 82
6 88, 22
135
Birżebbuġa
Il-Gudja
135
Ħal Għaxaq
,226
Santa Luċija
8 0 ,83
83
204
307 302
, 303
323
3
Ix-Xgħajra
21
0
91, ,93
124
13 9,
124
80
92,
124
L-Imġarr
N
302 303 323 306
322 330
312 322 303 322 323 303 322
302 303 305 306 307 308 310 311 312 313 323 330
1 2 3 4 13 13A 14 15 16 21 22 24 25 31 32 35 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 58A 61 62 63 64 71 72 73 74 80 81 82 83 84 85 88 91 92 93 94 122 130 133 238 250 260 X4 Malta International Airport 117 119 135 201 X1 X2 X3 X4 2 3 4 124 213 Il-Birgu 80 81 119 210 X4 Birżebbuġa 71 201 Blue Grotto 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 Buġibba / Il-Qawra 280 X3 221 222 250 X1 X1A 41 42 101 201 Ċirkewwa Ferry 56 186 202 201 Ta’ Qali 52 56 181 201 Ħad-Dingli 223 225 44 101 201 Golden Bay 1 124 213 L-Isla 213 N3 3 201 Il-Kalkara 91 92 93 119 124 135 201 204 N91 Marsaskala 81 85 119 210 Marsaxlokk 22 31 32 109 110 117 120 121 Mater Dei Hospital 122 135 181 182 204 206 201 201 209 233 238 213 218 226 201 201 210 201 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 L-Imdina 186 201 202 250 X3 221 222 250 41 42 49 101 201 Il-Mellieħa X1 X1A 201 44 101 213 L-Imġarr 14 120 Paceville 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 Ir-Rabat 186 201 202 250 X3 13 14 15 16 21 201 202 204 Tas-Sliema 201 201 222 225 201 233 X3 212 81 82 201 206 Ħal Tarxien 71 73 74 117 201 218 Iż-Żurrieq
Valletta
MALTA - Index of places served
L-Għarb Marsalforn L-Imġarr In-Nadur Il-Qala Ir-Ramla Ta’ Sannat Santa Luċija / Ta’ Kerċem Ta’ Pinu Church / L-Għasri Ix-Xagħra Ix-Xlendi Iż-Żebbuġ Ix-Xewkija Il-Munxar
Kemmunett Id-Dwejra (Cominotto)
301 309 311 308 310 301 302 303 302 305 313 308 307 306 309 301 305
KEMMUNA GOZO - Index of places served (COMINO)
Il-Qala
Ir-Rabat (Victoria)
322 323 301 303
303
303
www.freytagberndt.com
St Thomas Bay
2 32
In-Nadur
302
91 92 93 119 124 135 204 93
2
32
GĦAWDEX (GOZO)
Date: 19th April 2017 © FREYTAG-BERNDT & ARTARIA KG, VIENNA
Delimara
Marsaxlokk Market
Marsaxlokk
11
Pretty Bay
85
81 85
81,119
6
5
4
20
92
Ħaż-Żabbar
94 120 121
94
Fort Rinella
206 Marsaskala 84 Iż-Żejtun (Wied il-Għajn) 84, 20
301
323
Għajnsielem
Ix-Xewkija
2,
30
302
Ramla Bay
Ta’ Kola Windmill Il-Ġgantija (Ġgantija Temples)
307
IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)
Tarxien Temples Ħal Tarxien
120,121
03
3 Il-Kalkara
213
213 1 Il-Fgura 90,91 92,93,94
Raħal Ġdid (Paola)
2,3,4
(Cospicua)
X1A Bormla
1 124 213
(Senglea)
4
Il-Belt VALLETTA
L-Isla 2
Ta´Xbiex
3 13
1,3
305
30
Ir-Rabat (Victoria) 30 2 32 3
307
310 322
Marsalforn Bay
Ix-Xagħra
309 Marsalforn
Il-Munxar Ta’ Sannat
330
306,
15 21 202 203 212 222 225
0
, 11
21
313
1
Ta’ Kerċem
Tas-Sliema
6
4,1
Il-Gżira
Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
0
12
Il-Marsa
Iż-Żurrieq 73
Il-Ħnejja (Blue Grotto)
Il-Qrendi
Ħaġar Qim L-Imnajdra Temples (Mnajdra Temples)
63
64
58
56 58 Tal-Pietà A
50,54,
L-Imsida
32
A,1
13
St George’s Bay San Ġiljan (St Julian’s)
San Ġwann
X1 X2 X3 119 201 117 Malta Int. Airport 218 72 L-Imqabba
9
61,62
63
64
2,53
11
University Mater Dei Hospital
X1 X2 X3 X4 61 62 63 64 74 110 120 121 135 204 206 209 210 218 226
Is-Siġġiewi
62 209
58 51,5
22
Ħal Qormi
20
4
120
X2
22 Il-Balluta 21 0,1
,73
109
Ras Bajjada
10
1 20
61
6
38
106
14
Is-Swieqi
16
Pembroke
14
233 16 25 35 2 2
Ħal Balzan Birkirkara
L-Iklin
43
41-49 203, 25 0,260 280 4 5
202, 203
3
,10
13
X1
13A 14 103 110 120 121
71
Għar Lapsi
109
186
106 54
49
46 260
Ħal Għargħur
In-Naxxar Mosta Dome Il-Mosta
47
,5 50,52,5 3
Ta’ Qali
Buskett Gardens
Ir-Rabat
53 186 201 202
L-Imdina
56
186
0
13
Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
306 330
313
2
31
8,
30 31
308
Iż-Żebbuġ
L-Għasri
8
30
Santa Luċija
Ix-Xlendi Xlendi Bay
San Lawrenz
Id-Dwejra
311
312
L-Għarb
Ta’ Pinu
310
wa
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MALTA
51
182
25
49
10 3
21 2 , 22 2, 2 25 X 1, X1A
Is-Salina
Tarġa Gap
Ta' Qali National Stadium
Burmarrad
Il-Bidnija
44, 2 38
L-Imtarfa
50
Ħad-Dingli
Skorba Temples
103
Il-Wardija
X1,X 1B
Il-Qawra
X1 X1A X2 22 25 31 32 106 110 117 120 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 210 213 218 226 233 238 260 280
5 17,13
Dingli Cliffs
109
Ta’ Ħaġrat
101 238
5
A X1
San Pawl il-Baħar (St Paul’s Bay)
Buġibba
X3 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 280
Selmunett (St Paul’s Islands)
Azure Window
4
Bus routes Bus routes only summer Number of bus route Place of departure/arrival Key bus stop Sales and information office Bus interchange Tourist information Heritage site Place of interest Airport Hospital Ferry Beach
1
Il-Baħrija
109
Il-Ġnejna
01
L-Imġarr
Ġnejna Bay
2 223, 2
Il-Mellieħa
Mellieħa Bay
1 44, 10
101
49
49
Għajn Tuffieħa
Golden Bay
44 223 225
Popeye Village Il-Prajjet (Anchor Bay)
22 1
L-Għadira
101
X1B
IL-BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)
47
309
49
202
0
Paradise Bay
181, 56
54,106
31
Iċ-Ċirkewwa
2 20 1, 6,18 52,5
109
6
Ċirkewwa Ferry
62,109
25, 35
305
L-Armier (Armier Bay)
218
13
305,30
X1 X1A 41 42 101 221 222 250
,85
218
,82
80,82 , 85
7
80
,88
20 1
73, 1
26
11
0,2
201
311 71
3
72
2, 5
3
51
,X
18
X1,X
X2
1
X3
,12
31
94
5,48,186, X3 ,42,4 ,41 31 203,250,280
120
0
21
9
0 ,25
26
206
11
2 22 103 31
4
210
1A , 260
81,8
135
ġa Im L-
,X 16
124
91
to
41,42 X1
B, ,X1
ew Ferr y to Ċirk
119
rr y Fe
2
32 303
rr
MALTA BY BUS
11 X4
9
81
valletta
82