Guide Me Feb/March 2017

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 €3 The official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association

A SHOWCASE OF MALTA

The rise and rise of artisanal coffee shops

Fashion

The trends ruling 2017

Nightlife

Three artists talk Malta’s thriving nightlife scene

Events

The best winter festivities, activities and events

your guide to events | fashion | eating & drinking | shopping

INSIDE

February/March 2017 EDITOR Martina Said PUBLISHERS Content House Group ADVERTISING Head of Advertising Sales Matthew Spiteri Brand Sales Manager Jessica Catania Advertising Sales Coordinators Lindsey Napier Marvic Cutajar PRINTERS Progress Press Ltd Art Direction & Design Antoinette Micallef Box Design – T: +356 7969 1212

page 15 12 Calendar of events

A list of the major events taking place in Malta and Gozo throughout February and March 2017.

15 Cover story

Photo: viewingmalta.com

23 Active in Malta

A walk around the islands – Sarah Micallef talks to local adventure groups and hiking enthusiasts to discover the best walking routes the islands have to offer.

The best of island life – From Carnival festivities to a lengthy choice of outdoor events, Martina Said maps out some of the best activities for you to enjoy throughout your holiday.

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Content House Group, Mallia Buildings, 3, Level 2, Triq in-Negozju, Mriehel, BKR3000.

T: +356 2132 0713 E: info@contenthouse.com.mt W: www.contenthouse.com.mt Guide Me is published every two months in Malta. The magazine is the official visitors’ guide of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association.

The publication is distributed free of charge in the individual rooms of three, four and five star hotels.

Guide Me is also distributed for free from MTA offices in Malta and Gozo and at the La Valette Club within the Malta International Airport (MIA). It is also sold at leading newsagents in Malta and Gozo, including those at The Valletta Waterfront and at MIA.

Cover picture:

page 23

Photography Daniel Cilia, Inigo Taylor, Lisa Attard, Malta Tourism Authority, Tonio Schembri

Enjoying Carnival celebrations on the island of Gozo.

Photo: Tonio Schembri

Editorial opinions expressed in Guide Me are not necessarily those of the Malta Hotels and Restaurants Association or of Content House Group and both organisations do not accept responsibility for editorial or advertising content.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

INSIDE

February/March 2017

page 45

Photo: Alan Carville

54 Eating & Drinking Photo: Inigo Taylor

Find the perfect place to wine and dine on the islands with our handy restaurant guide.

59 Nightlife

Have a great night – Jo Caruana meets three wellknown Maltese artists ranging from the worlds of theatre to DJing to discover the many after-dark pursuits that you can enjoy during your trip.

page 35 35 Lifestyle

page 41

Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com

Black gold – As the artisan coffee movement gains ground locally, Marie-Claire Grima meets three speciality shop owners with a passion for flavourful coffee.

41 Fashion

2017 fashion must-haves – This year’s fashion trends are as exciting as they are contrasting, ranging from oversized blouses to thought-provoking t-shirts, as Martina Said discovers.

49 Cuisine

Eat your way around – Whatever your mood for food, the islands’ diverse culinary scene will leave you spoilt for choice.

Marie-Claire Grima traces the best areas for all appetites.

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page 49 page 83

FOREWORD

Welcome to the Maltese islands!

ISSUE

71 February/March 2017

Photo: Alexei Bonnici - viewingmalta.com Photo:

A

s locals, we don’t handle the winter months very well, which is silly of us considering that Maltese winters are as mild as they come compared to many of our European neighbours.

But we’ve grown accustomed to good weather, so much so that we expect it no matter the time of year, so that we can get on with one of the things we love doing most: spending time outdoors.

Despite being a few weeks away from spring, there’s lots of events going on for all to enjoy at this time of year, one of which is Carnival and all the celebrations that come with it, including

parades in the capital, Valletta, and a spontaneous carnival in Nadur, Gozo. Find out more about it, as well as other popular activities you can delight in while the weather is mild, on page 15.

And while you’re bathing in the soft winter sun, take a moment to appreciate some of the best countryside spots and scenic routes across the islands. This is hands down the best time of year for adventurous walks, and thanks to a growing crowd of nature enthusiasts (see page 23), you can join organised walks held every week and discover some hidden routes and fantastic vantage points.

Malta’s nightlife scene is also coming into its own – every year, the number of events and festivals taking place here surpasses the previous one, leaving locals and visitors spoilt for choice. Be it a trip to the theatre, a rave party or good old spot of stand-up (see page 59), you’ll surely find something that’s right up your street.

All this and more in the February/March issue of Guide Me, ensuring your stay on the Maltese islands is one for the books.

Martina Said EDITOR

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2017 Ongoing Valletta 1566 - Melita Renascens – Heritage Malta’s ongoing major exhibition in collaboration with Malta Libraries, which ends in July 2017, commemorates the 450th anniversary since the laying of the first stone of the city of Valletta.

The exhibition at Fort St Elmo is open daily from 9am to 6pm, last admissions at 5.30pm. For more information, visit www.heritagemalta.org/whats-on

03-05 February Carmen – Alegria Dance Company and MOVEO Dance Company collaborate on an exciting new dance version of Bizet’s opera Carmen, taking place at the Manoel Theatre, Valletta, combining flamenco and contemporary dance.

For tickets and more information, visit www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

05 February Russian Masters – The first concert of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra’s Russian Masters Series, taking place at the Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta, will focus on prominent Russian composers Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and Dmitri Shostakovich. Highly-acclaimed Russian pianist Pavel Kolesnikov joins the orchestra to perform Tchaikovsky’s First Piano Concerto, under the direction of French conductor Jean-Marc Burfin.

A performance of Shostakovich’s Fifth Symphony follows. For tickets and more information visit www.booking.mcc.com.mt

Shipwreck of St Paul, recorded in 60 AD. Religious ceremonies and street festivities are held in and around St Paul’s Shipwreck Parish, Valletta.

11 February Rhythms of Vision - Modern Music Days – Teatru Manoel and Malta Association of Contemporary Music (MACM) present Rhythms of Vision - Modern Music Days (MMD) on Saturday 11th February at the Manoel Theatre in Valletta. A concert of 20th century and contemporary chamber music will be held, where each piece in the programme is assigned to a photographer or video artist. The recital will feature visuals projected onto a multiple screen configuration with multiple projectors. Show starts at 8.30pm. For more information, visit www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

12, 19, 26 February, 05, 12, 19, 26 March In Guardia Parade – The In Guardia Parade is a re-enactment that portrays an authentic event that took place regularly inside Malta’s major fortifications of the Order of St John. The re-enactment portrays the inspection of Fort St Elmo and its garrison by the Grand Bailiff of the Order of the Knights of St John in charge of military affairs. During the re-enactment, actors kitted-out in their uniforms perform their military drill to demonstrate to the Grand Bailiff its state of readiness. The show begins at 11am and lasts 40 minutes.

17-18 February 10 February Feast of St Paul’s Shipwreck – The feast is held in commemoration of the

Symphonic Beatles – The Beatles Philharmonic Tribute is a spectacular orchestral concert of pure classical

interpretations celebrating the music of the world’s greatest legendary band, The Beatles. A musical marriage that combines dramatic orchestral arrangements, imaginatively fused together with rock and pop, but in keeping with the true spirit and style of The Beatles. The concert will take place at Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta, at 7.30pm. Proceeds will be in aid of Fondazzjoni Qalb it-Tfal, a registered charity set up to help the Neonatal Paediatric Intensive Care Unit at Malta’s Mater Dei Hospital. For more information email marketing@maltaorchestra.com

24-28 February Carnival In Malta & Gozo – February brings along Carnival week, which takes on a traditional pattern; extravagantly coloured floats are perched on lorries ready for the procession, children run around in fancy costumes and Malta’s main nightlife centre, Paceville, catches the late night Carnival goers who pile into the clubs and bars, still wearing their outrageous outfits. The heart of the action is in Valletta, though various towns and villages have their own version of festivities. For a particular interpretation, visit Nadur, Gozo, where Carnival takes on a more zany and yet macabre mood.

24 February, 31 March Changing of the Guards – The Changing of the Guard Ceremony is held every last Friday of the month at St George’s Square, Valletta. The parade commences at 10.30am, with the AFM Band marching down Republic Street onto St George’s Square, Valletta. Here, the new guard marches out from the Main Guard in order to replace the old guard who marches out from The

For the full online Malta Calendar of Events please go to: www.visitmalta.com/events-calendar 12

Palace, Valletta. Following the exchange of ‘duties’ the AFM Band conducts a marching display in the same square.

Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta, at 8pm. For more information and tickets, visit www.mcc.com.mt

25 February-02 April

19 March

Gaulitana Festival of Music – Madame Butterfly will be the highlight of the 11th edition of Gaulitana: A Festival of Music. The full-scale production of Puccini’s masterpiece will present Malta’s internationally acclaimed soprano Miriam Gauci in the lead role. Colin Attard will direct the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and the Gaulitanus Choir.

The opera night will be part of OPERA Weekend – an intensive programme of musical events concluding the festival that is held in Gozo. More information and programme details are available on www.gaulitanus.com

Feast of St Joseph – The feast of St Joseph is celebrated on 19th March and is a public holiday. The actual feast celebration takes place in the village of Rabat (Malta).

28 February, 02, 04, 06 March Le Nozze di Figaro – Teatru Manoel presents a brand new production of Mozart’s comic opera. This production of Le Nozze di Figaro will bring to life all of the charm, humanity and wit of Mozart and da Ponte’s classic while restoring the satirical bite and political edge of Beaumarchais’ original play in a contemporary context. More information about this event can be obtained from the Manoel Theatre by calling T: 2122 2618 or visiting www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

23-26 March She Stoops To Conquer – MADC presents Oliver Goldsmith’s farcical comedy based on two incidents creating a complicated and convoluted plot through miscommunication and mistaken identities whilst also exploring a series of ethical and aesthetic issues. Further information can be obtained from the Manoel Theatre by calling T: 2122 2618 or visiting www.teatrumanoel.com.mt

24-25 March Instruments of Innovation – Throughout the history of classical music, composers have always pushed boundaries and explored new possibilities and ideas.

This concert, which will take place at Robert Samut Hall, Floriana, presents a selection of pieces composed for instruments which were considered innovative and new, from the harpsichord to the typewriter. For more information, visit www.maltaorchestra.com

11 March

25 March

Eroica – Beethoven’s Third Symphony, the Eroica, is the highlight of a concert by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra which also features works by Brahms and Maltese composer Nicolas Isouard.

The concert will take place at the

Evita – La Stella Band Club and Astra Theatre will be organising Evita – Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s musical – on Saturday 25th March at the Astra Theatre in Gozo. Productions of Evita have been performed all over the world,

including performances in Austria, Spain, Mexico and South Africa. And now, for the first time, Evita comes to Gozo.

Further information may be obtained from La Stella Band Club by sending an email to info@lastella.com.mt or visiting www.lastella.com.mt

31 March Freedom Day – On 31st March 1979, the Defence Treaty with Britain came to an end as the last British forces left the island. Activities commemorating this important historic date take place every year, mostly in Birgu where the monument marking this event is situated.

12-30 April Malta International Music Festival – This year, some of the most prestigious pianists of our times will finally have their Maltese debut at the Malta International Music Festival. Spectacular concerts, masterclasses for the star-pianists of tomorrow with famous piano teachers like Dmitri Bashkirov, Yoheved Kaplinsky and Valery Piasetsky, and a prestigious competition in four age categories will turn Malta into a cultural and musical event of international importance.

The winners will be awarded with prizes up to €20,000. In 2017, Karl Fiorini, Joseph Vella and Alexey Shor from Malta will be composers in residence of the festival. For more information, visit www.maltafest.eu

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COVER STORY

The best

of island life From colourful Carnival celebrations to outdoor events for days, Martina Said maps out some of the best activities for you to enjoy throughout your holiday on the islands over the coming months.

This little island is making a habit of topping lists of late – and not just any lists, but ones that prove this tiny rock in the middle of the Med is capturing international attention.

Flights search giant Skyskanner named Malta as the top hotspot for 2017, making it the website’s number one prediction as a travel destination this year, surpassing the likes of Asturias, Spain and Barbados – which placed second and third respectively.

Skyskanner named Malta as an ‘old favourite’, with a notable increase of 59 per cent in flight searches in 2016 over the previous year. Speedy flight times and direct routes from more than 10 UK airports sweeten the deal of course, but there’s far more to it than that. “It’s no longer all about those – admittedly gorgeous – beaches. Malta’s reinventing itself as a seriously hip weekend break contender, with new boutique hotels and cool bars down at the Valletta waterfront complementing an

emerging dance scene centred around clubbing capital, Paceville,” it said.

And seeing as Malta is currently leading the Presidency of the Council of the European Union, there are plenty of reasons why the islands are getting all the international attention they deserve. Early in February, the country hosted the Summit of the EU Heads of State or Government following the Bratislava Summit in September 2016; an opportunity for EU leaders to gather momentum towards a new vision for Europe.

Until the end of June, Malta will work through a challenging programme of priorities, and while the tasks ahead are momentous and massive, it’s a proven fact (just take a look at Malta’s history), that despite its size, the island has never shied away from responsibility.

So if you’re visiting this sundrenched archipelago anytime between February and March, you’re in for a treat. You’ll not only get to witness the

Valletta

calmer, quieter and altogether greener side of it before summer sets in, but also indulge in myriad activities that are best enjoyed at this time of year. ➜

Handheld guide Download the free iMalta app to help you find your way around the islands by suggesting the best places to visit and sights to see.

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COVER STORY

Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com

Join the festivities The first local Carnival was held in 1535, when Malta was under the rule of the Knights of St John, and it remains a beloved tradition, a final flurry of celebrations, if you will, before the solemnity of Ash Wednesday, Lent and Holy Week. While the scope and style of celebrations have evolved somewhat over the years, the main sources of entertainment are to be found in the capital, Valletta, as well as in the village of Nadur, Gozo. This year, Carnival will be celebrated between Friday 24th and Tuesday 28th February, so jot down the dates in your calendar if you’re here for that weekend.

The vibe in Valletta is one of rowdy camaraderie, where a parade of colourful, towering and allegorical floats glide through the main streets and squares of the capital, accompanied by loud music, marching bands and costumed party-goers, and presided over by King Carnival (ir-Re tal-Karnival).

A visit to Valletta is ideal for families with young children, but also a lot of fun if you’re curious to know what the islanders get 16

Photo: viewingmalta.com

up to during Carnival weekend – you may choose to join in the merriment with a costume of your own, or sit back and enjoy the show at one of the many coffee shops, bars and restaurants dotted throughout the city. A full programme of events is available on www.maltaculture.com.

The Gozitan Carnival, on the other hand – specifically the one celebrated in the small village of Nadur – is an entirely different scenario. It’s a more spontaneous one, known for its darker, quirkier mood and more risqué themes, including macabre set-ups, cross-dressing, political satire and plenty of costumes mimicking members of the clergy. This particular Carnival is not appropriate for children and best enjoyed if you’re really intending to party the night away.

Lots of towns and villages across the islands have their own version of Carnival festivities, many of which host celebrations with far less pomp and grandeur.

If you’ve got your sights set on a particular locality, it would be best to call up the town’s Local

Council beforehand – or tourist information office if they have one (see page 57) – to avoid heading there for nothing. ➜

Photo: viewingmalta.com

COVER STORY Take it outside If the weather permits, and most times it does, there are lots of activities to enjoy outdoors at this time of year.

Rock climbing is one of them – the rocky terrain and sheer cliffs that characterise much of the Maltese archipelago are ideal for practicing this adventure sport which is increasingly growing in popularity. You may try your hand at traditional and sport climbing, or opt for something different such as bouldering, deep water soloing and sea level traversing.

For a real adrenaline rush, try Malta’s longest zipline located at Miġra l-Ferħa in Rabat, where you’ll whizz above the Mediterranean Sea for a whopping 150 metres. It’s not for the faint-hearted, but can be a load of fun, even as a family activity. And if you’re after a proper bird’s eye view of the islands, why not take to the skies? Malta School of Flying offers trial flights, giving aviation enthusiasts the chance to experience the thrill of flying an aircraft with an experienced instructor. Trial flights last half an hour or one hour and may be booked through the site, www.maltaflying.com.

Of course, not every adventure needs to be an extreme one – if you’re keen to discover the islands on foot,

Photo: Paolo Meitre Liberatini - viewingmalta.com

strap on your sturdiest boots and trek through the countryside along cliff edges and by the beautiful coasts. For some incredible walking and scenic routes, turn to page 23. If you’re willing to brave cool temperatures, take the plunge with a water-based adventure.

We recommend a swim with the dolphins, which you can enjoy at Mediterraneo Marine Park located in Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq. This attraction promotes interactive participation with a selection of marine mammals, including dolphins, sea lions, parrots and reptiles, as well as lively and entertaining shows. For more details, visit www.mediterraneopark.com.

Discover the past The Maltese islands are known

Mnajdra Temple - Photo: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com

for their history as much as their natural splendour, and most heritage sites on the islands, particularly the outdoor ones, lend themselves better to a visit in the winter months when the weather is far more tolerable. Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra Temples in Qrendi are certainly worth a visit. It was at Ħaġar Qim, dating back to the Ġgantija phase, that ancient artefacts including a decorated pillar altar and a number of ‘fat lady’ statues, representing the goddess of fertility, were found.

Close by, Mnajdra is made up of three temples overlooking an oval forecourt, with the impressive third temple and its largely intact facade and bench having been constructed in the early Tarxien phase. ➜

COVER STORY

Upper Barrakka Gardens, Valletta Photo: Leslie Vella - viewingmalta.com

The Ġgantija Temples in Xagħra, Gozo, consisting of two temples dating back to 3600-3200BC, should be on your list of mustsees too – they are one of the most important archaeological sites in the Maltese islands and are featured on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Another national monument of more recent history is the newlyrestored Fort St Angelo, which

dominates the tip of the city of Birgu and served as a strategically invaluable fort throughout Malta’s military history, especially during the Great Siege of 1565. Pay a visit for a walk around and some informative historical anecdotes, as well as breath-taking views of the Grand Harbour and its surroundings.

Fun and relaxation Whether you’re travelling here as a couple, family, with friends or even alone, there’s surely something on offer that will appeal to everyone – from history buffs to culture vultures, beach-goers and beyond.

If you’re travelling with young ones, lots of sight-seeing might get a little much for them. Break up the history lesson with a visit to the Playmobil Funpark in Ħal-Far. Here, kids can take a tour of the factory

to watch ‘The Smiling Faces In The Making’ and discover how their favourite figures come to life. This funpark gives kids the opportunity to interact with Playmobil’s range of figures and play-sets in a fun and safe environment, with different themed zones ranging from city life to fairy tale settings. And at the end of the factory tour, they even get a Playmobil souvenir to take home. Visit www.playmobilmalta. com for more information.

After all the tours and detours, you might want to put your feet up and do exactly what you intended to in the first place: relax on holiday. Many of Malta and Gozo’s top hotels offer pampering spa treatments to help you unwind and enjoy some down time in good company or in peace and quiet, so pick your favourite one and book a slot to avoid a let-down.

ACTIVE IN MALTA

aaround walk the islands The cooler months are the perfect time of year for putting on your hiking boots and exploring Malta and Gozo on foot. Sarah Micallef talks to local adventure groups and hiking enthusiasts to discover the best walking routes the islands have to offer.

San Blas Bay, Gozo - Photo: viewingmalta.com

months, when the lack of peak season sun worshippers make it a tranquil and breath-taking place to walk.

Besides these coastal and countryside routes, a stroll around one of the quaint rural villages is equally engaging, as you skip over the cobbled streets and experience the slower pace of life which some of the islands’ older residents still lead. ➜

Photo: viewingmalta.com

Far from the hustle and bustle of busy city life, the islands of Malta and Gozo boast some of the most picturesque walking routes and views in the Mediterranean. Whether it’s spectacular cliffs, garigue-rich shrub land, fertile valleys or rural villages you’re after, you’ll find it all here.

What’s more, dotted along these routes are interesting examples of the islands’ rich history, making it easy to visit prehistoric sites and wayside chapels en route.

In Malta, some of the best walking routes are to be found in Mellieħa, Dingli, Għar Lapsi, Fawwara, Wardija,

the bays in the North, fishing villages along the southern coast and Delimara Point. Meanwhile, Gozo is richer in terms of countryside, offering excellent sites in the form of Ta’ Dbieġi, San Lawrenz, the Ġordan Lighthouse near Għasri, Ħondoq ir-Rummien and San Blas Valley. And let’s not forget the smaller island of Comino, which is also a great option to explore in the cooler

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ACTIVE IN MALTA

The North - Photo: viewingmalta.com

There are several groups that organise hikes around the islands that you can join if you’d like some company, or you can also choose to go it alone – but make sure you have a rough idea of your route in mind beforehand!

EXPERIENCE: ADVENTURES AND MORE Kim Agius and Mario Scerri, from Experience: Adventures and More, organise hikes and treks across the islands on a weekly basis. The pair met six years ago during the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage in Spain, and continued to meet every

Sunday for walks in the Maltese countryside. Asked to pick their personal favourite route in Malta and Gozo, the pair name the Xemxija Roman Trail walk. “You can easily follow the signs from Xemxija Bay and explore the area – there are lots of historic sites on the way,” they say.

“During autumn, winter and spring time, you will always feel comfortable walking due to our mild climate,” Mario and Kim maintain, adding that the landscape is diverse and changes according to the season.

“You’re always close to the sea, so in one view you can enjoy the combination of vegetation, soil, sea

and clear skyline. It’s also fairly easy to find your way around and almost impossible to get lost,” they add.

Asked for their top three recommended scenic routes and countryside walks on the Maltese islands, the experienced pair name the Laferla Cross and Fawwara area where you’ll find lovely country lanes; the Għar Lapsi and Żurrieq areas, which are ideal for casual walkers and also feature a more demanding route for experienced trekkers; as well as the southern tip of Malta starting from St Thomas Bay hugging the coast and exploring the secluded coves and beaches. ➜

Wied iż-Żurrieq Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com Birgu

The Azure Window, Gozo - Photo: viewingmalta.com

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ACTIVE IN MALTA

Għajn Tuffieħa Bay - Photo: Gregory Iron - viewingmalta.com

MILES INTO MEMORIES David Gladwish kicked off expedition planning and adventure group Miles into Memories in 2015. The group organises mountain and hiking trips abroad several times a year, and while the majority of their outdoor training activities are reserved for members of their expeditions, they also organise free, open-for-all weekly runs and less frequent large group hikes around the island.

David’s favourite hiking area in Malta is around Għajn Tuffieħa. “The clay slopes and sea views between Riviera and Ġnejna beach are breath-taking and loads of fun for anyone eager to get off flat terrain for a while,” he says, advising shoes with decent grip are a must as parts of the trail require some easy scrambling.

“I would only recommend avoiding the area, or being extra cautious, when it’s been raining for a while as the clay gets rather slippery. Aside from those periods, it’s a hike to be enjoyed all year round. Whether you start from Ġnejna or Riviera, just ask a friendly local for the general direction and enjoy the stroll!”

And while Malta’s landscape does not feature David’s much loved mountains, he still considers it perfect for walking, mostly because of the sea.

Għajn Tuffieħa Tower - Photo: viewingmalta.com

Siġġiewi Chapel near Laferla Cross - Photo: viewingmalta.com

“Coastline walks are by far my favourite on the Maltese islands, with an abundance of beautiful cliffs, coastal trails and rolling hills to enjoy. If it gets too hot, you’re usually a hop and a skip away from a dip in the water to cool down,” he says.

As for his top recommended routes, David lists the entire coastline from Dingli to Ċirkewwa, explaining, “being amongst the highest zones on the island, the cliffs give the walker unparalleled bird's eye views of the sea.” Another is the route from Xemxija to Mellieħa via Selmun: “A little known trail starting behind the Xemxija Fire Station along the coast all the way to Mellieħa Bay makes for a wonderful two-hour walk. You get to see St Paul’s islands close up and have the added benefit of passing through two beaches en route (Imġiebaħ and Mistra Bays).” ➜

ACTIVE IN MALTA Lastly, he continues, anywhere on the Gozitan coastline. “If you have time to take in the full 50km coastal walk around the island, take it. Most people choose to do it over three days to enjoy a more leisurely pace, but I have friends who have walked the entire loop non-stop.

For the super fit, consider running the Eco Gozo 55km trail race, which is organised every April by local endurance superstar Nathan Farrugia. You can check it out at www.hellfirevents.com,” he adds.

If you’d like to join any of the hikes and activities organised by Experience: Adventures and More or Miles into Memories, you can find details on their respective Facebook pages, as well as the latter’s website, www.milesintomemories.com.

Photo: Bence Zakonyi - viewingmalta.com

TAKE NOTE

Wander Biking Getting around in Malta has been made easier, healthier and well – yeah – almost faster thanks to the introduction of bicycle-sharing in the key tourist areas of Sliema and St Julian’s.

Operated by nextbike, more than 200 bikes are available for rent in a number of different locations.

Renting is not just cheap but easy. Download the nextbike app, register, check the closest nextbike station close to you and rent the bike. Unlock and wander around Malta (and why not Gozo) leaving the bicycle at any nextbike station you wish.

If you already use nextbike – or one of its international partners – in your home country, simply use the

same app. You can choose from a number of available tariff plans. We definitely recommend the Weekly Subscription giving you unlimited free 30-minute rides for just €12.

If you don’t have 3G access or haven’t got a smartphone, you can register via the 24hr hotline on T: 2099 6666 or on www.nextbike.com.mt

De Valette’s dagger

in Malta for the first time since 1798

As part of the events marking Malta’s 2017 EU Presidency, Heritage Malta will organise a small but important exhibition on Grand Master Jean de Valette’s dagger gifted to him by King Philip II of Spain in recognition of the Grand Master’s victory of the Great Siege. The poniard will be on loan from the Louvre Museum, Paris, thus returning to Malta for the first time since 1798.

After the victory of the Great Siege, honours and gifts were showered upon the Order of St John, but especially on Grand

Master de Valette, by all the kingdoms of Europe. The most famous was certainly the gem-crusted sword and poniard gifted by Philip II of Spain.

After the French, led

by General Napoleon Bonaparte, occupied Malta in 1798, the sword was sent to the Louvre Museum with other possessions from conquered states, but Napoleon kept the dagger to

himself and it was after his demise that the dagger was put together with the sword at the Louvre.

The exhibition will be held at the National Museum of Archaeology from early March until the end of June 2017. De Valette’s dagger will be the main focus of the exhibition and will be accompanied by a selected number of other related exhibits from the national collection. www.heritagemalta.org Photo: Daniel Cilia

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CULTURE

7,000 years of history brought to life

Located in Malta’s capital city, Valletta, housed within what was once the Sacra Infermeria of the Knights of Malta, is The Malta Experience. This audio-visual spectacular is one of the largest attractions in Europe in terms of duration, system and language commentaries. It is also the only show that retraces 7,000 years of Maltese history.

The 45-minute presentation can be listened to in one of 17 languages. In a purposely built auditorium, with a panoramic screen, sensational vision and a gripping commentary, The Malta Experience brings 7,000 years of history back to life.

Shows are every hour on the hour as follows: Monday to Friday from 11am to 4pm; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 11am to 2pm.

After the show one can also enjoy a tour of the Sacra Infermeria, the old hospital of the Knights of St John. Today, this beautiful building is known as the Mediterranean Conference Centre, but you can still step back in time and visualise its revolutionary past on a guided tour, and visit the

longest ward in Europe measuring 155 metres in length and holding 247 beds.

Quote ‘Guide Me’ at the ticketing counter to claim your 15 per cent discount on the entrance fee (not valid with any other offer). Ask for a combined ticket which also includes a guided tour of The Sacra Infermeria – The Old Hospital of the Knights of St John.

The Malta Experience St Elmo Bastions, Mediterranean Street, Valletta.

T: 2124 3776; www.themaltaexperience.com

The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra

performs Beethoven’s Eroica The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra will be playing one of Beethoven’s most renowned works in a series of concerts that will also see it perform to Austrian audiences.

The concerts feature Beethoven’s Third Symphony, the Eroica, which was famously originally dedicated to Napoleon, only for the composer to revoke this dedication when he heard that the French leader had declared himself Emperor.

The MPO will first be playing this symphony – recently voted to be the greatest symphony of all time in a BBC Music Magazine survey

– as well as pieces by Brahms and Maltese composer Nicolas Isouard at the Mediterranean Conference Centre, Valletta on 11th March.

Five days later, these works will be performed at one of the world’s finest concert halls, the Musikverein in Vienna, the city which Beethoven called home most of his life. The MPO will also be performing in Klagenfurt’s Konzerthaus the following day.

Tickets for the Malta performance, which starts at 8pm, are available from www.mcc.com.mt.

For further information, visit www.maltaorchestra.com

33

BLACK GOLD

LIFESTYLE

As the artisan coffee movement continues to pick up steam locally, Marie-Claire Grima went in search of the best places to have a flavourful cup of coffee on the island.

Photos: Inigo Taylor

Coffee Circus Coffee Circus was launched in 2014 by a group of Lithuanians who missed the coffee culture back home, and is now probably the most well-known artisan coffee shop in Malta. From selling speciality, freshly-roasted coffee from a humble tuk-tuk in Mosta, and later a bicycle wheeled along the Strand in Sliema – both of which are still in operation, with more in the pipeline – the company has since put down roots with a small coffee shop just off Mosta’s main square.

“It’s called Coffee Circus because every month we have a new attraction, a new star blend!” says Kristina, one of Coffee Circus’ baristas. “The coffee beans we use are from the Arabica family, rather than the lower-growing Robusta. This means that they have less caffeine but more flavour, because they grow at heights

of 1,000 metres and more, allowing them to absorb more nutrients from their surroundings without having to produce a lot of caffeine to protect themselves from insects.”

While the thought of a lower dose of caffeine might turn some people off, all doubts about the potency of the flavour are vanquished when you taste the first drop of a punchy Coffee Circus espresso. And for those days when it’s a little bit warmer, they make quite a mean iced coffee too.

“It’s called Coffee Circus because every month we have a new attraction, a new star blend!”

Coffee Circus, Main Street, Mosta.

Open 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sun. Also available around Malta in various locations including Pure Living, Sliema; Tap Room, Valletta; University of Malta, Msida. ➜ 35

LIFESTYLE

KefaKafe

“KefaKafe is named after the Kefa province of Ethiopia, from where all coffee in the world once originated. ”

36

KefaKafe is a cosy, pocket-sized coffee shop, nestled at the corner of a street in the village of Naxxar. Its owner, Steve Alamango, is by far the most knowledgeable coffee enthusiast I’ve ever met. “I’ve always been interested in good, healthy coffee, and wanting to make the whole process from crop to cup transparent. Opening KefaKafe gave me the opportunity to tell the consumer the story of coffee, giving the producers their rightful credit and the customers a cup of goodness and cleanliness to consume,” he says.

KefaKafe is named after the Kefa province of Ethiopia, from where all coffee in the world once originated.

However, the shop stocks coffee blends and varieties that come from far and wide, both for drinking at the shop as well as to take home. “Our coffee is shade-grown fresh roast artisan coffee, of highest quality and maximum density beans. It grows in the canopy of fruit trees offering a variety of flavours absorbed by the beans, which gives them their own particular profiles and characteristics.

It is also UTZ-certified and certified-speciality, guaranteeing that the coffee does not support any slave labour or unsustainable deforestation,” Steve explains.

Customer favourites at KefaKafe include flat whites made from blended or single-estate Ethiopian coffee, as well as various types of

cortado coffees. “My masala chai is also a favourite for many!” Steve smiles. His philosophy is at the forefront of KefaKafe’s culture.

“Each one of us is a little drop, and collectively we make up an ocean.

It is up to each and every one of us to make the right conscious choice, because we have the opportunity and freedom to choose an ethicallysourced coffee over anything else.

This is the duty we owe to the earth, to ourselves and to the people who work so hard to cut 4,000 coffee beans in hot temperatures so that 60 people can drink coffee from a single kilo. So next time you make a coffee, think about where it comes from and what you are consuming... if you are not sure, come to Kefa!”

KefaKafe Artisan Coffee & Tea, St Lucy Street, Naxxar. Open 9am6pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1.30pm Sat. ➜

LIFESTYLE

“You can have the Berrycino as an espresso, cappuccino or latte.”

Caffè Berry “The search for the best espresso is endless,” says coffee entrepreneur Ewa Wiktoria Milewska. “With more than ten years’ experience in the coffee sector in Italy, I decided to make my greatest dream come true, and set up a place where people can taste the best espresso in the world, full-bodied, with an unmistakable aroma and high-quality taste.”

Thus Caffè Berry was born, a tiny but instantly-recognisable blue coffee shop on the corner of St Dominic Street in Sliema.

“At Caffè Berry, we get a mix of tourists, locals and new residents who are from all over the world.

Everyone has their own experience of coffee, but our vision is to make people appreciate real espresso – the true Italian espresso experience,” Ewa says proudly. But while the staff at Caffè Berry rightly pride themselves on their excellent, no-frills espresso, their most recognisable drink is the Berrycino, a delicious (not to mention

extremely Instagrammable) drink with a layer of hazelnut or pistachio spread around the rim of the cup.

“You can have the Berrycino as an espresso, cappuccino or latte. Each drink is made with our quality five-variety blend of Arabica coffee, milk, top quality cream and fresh pistachios or hazelnuts.”

Caffè Berry also stocks a range of delicious treats, from pistachio tarts to hearty carrot cakes, with

many of the recipes suitable for vegetarians and vegans, and plans to expand also into the savoury side of food. “We also have a selection of organic products like extra virgin olive oil, nut spreads, quality jams and a large selection of teas from different countries,” Ewa says.

Caffè Berry, 68A/69, St Dominic Street, Sliema.

Open 7am-7pm Mon-Sat.

39

2017

FASHION

fashion must-haves

This year’s major fashion trends appear to be as exciting as they are contrasting. From summery stripes and platform shoes to oversized bags and thought-provoking tees, Martina Said picks her favourites for 2017.

Strong silhouettes Short hemlines and plunging necklines are making way for a seemingly more modest approach to fashion, with strong silhouettes that envelope, rather than define the female figure, including loose blouses, oversized coats, wideleg trousers and slouchy shirts.

This direction could prove to be a most welcome change in the industry, and find a huge fan base among all females of varying body shapes and sizes.

Silver replaces gold Perhaps replaces is a strong word, but 2017 should give silver a chance to shine.

Gold, and especially rose gold accessories were everywhere last year – from layered rings and pendants to ear cuffs and mobile phone covers.

This year, the underdog that is silver may in fact get a chance to emerge from the shadows.

strong silhouettes

Hellessy

Hellessy

Not-sosubtle stripes

Alison Moore

Delpozo

Not-so-subtle stripes As classic as the white t-shirt or the Little Black Dress, stripes will infiltrate all corners of our wardrobes this year. Numerous spring/summer collections featured the kind of stripes reminiscent of beach umbrellas and worn-out deckchairs, and despite looking a little retro, they fit right in for summer. ➜

silver replaces gold

Oscar de la Renta

41 Rosie Assoulin

FASHION

Miu Miu

subtle activism

Platform power In 2016, skyscraper heels and pointed shoes with single soles were all the rage, and also incredibly uncomfortable. 2017 will welcome the return of the platform, and a pretty platform chunky one at that. power From block heels and lifted loafers to shoes intended to help you reach new heights – à la Marc Jacobs’ dizzying spring/ summer 2017 collection – this year might be the year that comfortable heels are back Jimmy Choo in vogue.

Dior

Hit the shops…

Louis Vuitton

Check out Malta’s top shopping destinations.

Subtle activism There are many ways to make a statement, and some designers, including Michael Kors, Stella McCartney and Dior, opted for a good old fashioned slogan to spread messages of unity and positivity at a much needed time instead of merely pushing their own brand. ➜

VALLETTA

Our beautiful capital city offers so much more than history and architecture. In and around the beautiful baroque buildings that line the city’s streets lie several high street outlets for a dose of retail therapy amid the culture and history lessons.

Don’t miss: Republic Street, Merchants Street and The Embassy Complex

SLIEMA

BNKR

Sliema is the undisputed shopping centre of Malta. Look out for the main streets that house a variety of high street and designer brands, as well as the islands’ biggest shopping malls.

Don’t miss: Bisazza Street, Tower Road, The Plaza Shopping Centre and The Point Shopping Mall

ST JULIAN’S

painterly prints

Valentino

42

Stella McCartney

For the more discerning shopper, the area opposite the upmarket complex of Portomaso is home to a selection of designer shops that beckon you to explore what’s on their beautiful rails. A shopping complex just down the road from the nightlife capital of Paceville is also open on Sundays.

Don’t miss: Bay Street Shopping Complex and Portomaso

FASHION

painterly prints

Painterly prints Numerous runway shows turned up with art-inspired collections featuring creative prints and patterns that made strong references to art and artists.

From Céline and Valentino to Roksanda and Marni, 2017 looks Novis like it will be a colourful year in the fashion world.

bags for days

Marni

Céline

Bags for days Spring/summer 2017 handbag trends were a case of extremes at most runway shows, ranging from the absolute miniscule – so small, you could barely fit a smartphone – to curiously large styles, such as Balenciaga’s Moroccan pouf-inspired style, massive totes at Céline and an oversized backpack-handbag blend at Marni.

TAKE NOTE

Your Shopping

destination of choice

Since its inception in March 2010, The Point – the largest shopping mall in Malta – has succeeded in firmly establishing itself as the shopping destination of choice on the island. The Point has been innovative and bold in its strategy and marketing campaigns, giving customers an unprecedented shopping experience and becoming a popular destination for all the family. The wide variety of top brands, comfortable ambience, ease of access and ample availability of parking spaces are only some of the components that helped The Point to achieve its success.

Always customer-centric, the team at The Point manages to put together a vast calendar of events targeting various age groups and tastes. Competitions and offers are also available from various outlets and the mall itself on a regular basis. The Point Shopping Mall offers an experience like no other for customers who are looking for a good mix of outlets within any budget!

For a full calendar of events visit www.thepointmalta.com and The Point’s Facebook Page www.facebook.com/ThePointShoppingMall

The upcoming capital of

Classical Music

A year ahead of 2018, when Valletta will be the European Capital of Culture, the Malta International Music Festival which will be held in Valletta, is hosting a prestigious musical programme with international stars from the classical music world who will perform in the Maltese capital. Among the world acclaimed artists performing in Valletta is the legendary master of piano, Grigory Sokolov, giving his Maltese debut and playing a spectacular solo recital at the Mediterranean Conference Centre. The rising young star Jan Liesiecki will perform with the

Malta Philharmonic Orchestra under the baton of the famous conductor Constantine Orbelian.

Colourful interpretations of symphonic pieces, chamber music and great soloists are going to enhance Valletta as a musical capital, offering great performances and true emotions.

The high-class programme will be accompanied by a prestigious international piano competition and a series of master classes with the crème de la crème of international piano professors.

For more information, visit www.maltafest.eu 47

CUISINE

EAT YOUR WAY

AROUND

Although Malta is small, each corner of this little island has its own personality, and that translates to the food as well. Marie-Claire Grima walks through the options available for whenever and whatever kind of mood for food strikes.

Maltese food may not have much of an international reputation, but we’re a people who love both cooking and eating food in equally generous portions, and there’s really no shortage of places to dine out while you’re here on holiday.

Of course, what you opt for really depends on the mood you’re in.

Here’s where to go if you feel like...

TRAVELLING TO MEDIEVAL TIMES You’ll have heard it before in many a tourist brochure, but a visit to the centuries-old city of Mdina really is like going back in time. After a relaxing meal at one of the elegant restaurants perched atop the bastions, with the spectacular countryside views unfurling below you, take time to walk through the ancient streets of Malta’s former capital and revel in the atmosphere – cool and serene by day, romantic with just a hint of mystery by night. Crossing the bridge to leave the walled fortress and returning to the suburbs feels like striding across history.

Mdina - Photo: Clive Vella - viewingmalta.com

Piazza Regina, Valletta - Photo: viewingmalta.com

SOAKING UP CULTURE AND STYLE The founder of Valletta, Grandmaster Jean Parisot de Valette, famously remarked that the capital city was built ‘by gentlemen, for gentlemen’. However, that makes it sound much more boring and elitist Valletta - Photo: viewingmalta.com

than it really is – that is a newlyrevamped city chockfull of lively restaurants, cosy pubs and ritzy little bars popping up and pushing the boundaries of an interesting and well-fed and watered night out, where old not only meets new, but also comments approvingly on what it’s done with the place. Plus, it’s only a year away from holding the title of European Capital of Culture, so there’s always something to do besides noshing down – an arthouse film at Spazju Kreattiv, an exhibition at Blitz, a concert at the Manoel Theatre, a play at the City Theatre. And you don’t even need to be a gentleman to enjoy it. ➜ 49

CUISINE

Marsaxlokk

A SPOT OF AUTHENTIC SEAFOOD You’d expect to find a surfeit of fishing villages on an island like Malta, but many of them have been warped and lost over time. Not so the southern town of Marsaxlokk, which, despite the fact that it now has a Costa Coffee, has retained the most authentic elements of its character.

Marsaxlokk’s main promenade is brimming with restaurants whose speciality is seafood, often caught by the husbands, brothers and sons

of the restaurateurs. Most of these restaurants offer open-air seating options when the weather permits it, and the salty sea air coupled with the vista of bobbing Maltese boats is sure to open up your appetite for something from the depths of the Mediterranean. Marsaxlokk also hosts the famous weekly fish market every Sunday, so if you’re in the mood to have a go on the grill yourself, there’s no better place to pick up the catch of the day.

Birgu, across the Senglea waterfront - Photo: viewingmalta.com

50

EXPLORING MALTA’S MARITIME HISTORY The heavily fortified towns of Birgu, Bormla and Isla (also referred to as Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea) form the cluster around the Grand Harbour known as the Three Cities. Neglected in the post-war years, the Three Cities have undergone a fairly drastic facelift in recent times that have turned them into quite a hotspot for history lovers and foodies alike; while the towns’ naval heritage remains fully intact, the choice of where to go for a bite to eat or drinks with friends has increased significantly. A stroll along the Birgu waterfront reveals a range of smart restaurants and bars, perfect for a Sunday afternoon watching the yachts lazily bobbing in the marina. Meanwhile, the streets of Bormla and Isla hide lots of culinary treasures – from seafood takeaways to traditional Maltese eateries, there are plenty of tasty rewards to be reaped by the hungry and intrepid. ➜

CUISINE

Rabbit dish - Photo: viewingmalta.com

RABBIT SEASON The Maltese fenkata (rabbit feast) is not just a meal – it’s a full blown social event. The menu typically consists of rabbit liver and kidneys cooked in tomato sauce with spaghetti as a starter, then the rest of the rabbit, fried and served with potatoes, as a main course. It’s cheap, delicious and hearty, making it a perfect outing for groups of all ages and budgets that can start at lunch time and keep going well into the early evening. Nobody goes for a fenkata with expectations of haute cuisine – many rabbit places are little more than converted garages – but the best places to go for one are jealously-guarded secrets. Most of them are found in rural areas, particularly Dingli and Mġarr, which offer beautiful scenery as well as some glorious routes for a post-dinner stroll, provided that the gallons of house

Spinola Bay, St Julian's

red and local beer you’ve guzzled down haven’t had their wicked way with you by that point.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE While all of Malta is gradually becoming less insular in terms of its population, Sliema and St Julian’s remain by far the most cosmopolitan areas of Malta, thanks to the influx of foreigners who have moved here to live and work. As a result, this is the place to go when you haven’t quite settled on a place and want to keep your options open, because you’ll find every kind of cuisine. Tasty Indian curries or a succulent Chinese buffet? All the sushi you could possibly eat or a sizzling Brazilian-

Gozitan ftira - Photo: Mario Galea - viewingmalta.com

style churrasco? A fabulous burger with all the trimmings or a good old-fashioned plate of pasta, just like nanna used to make? It’s all right here, with a bonus selection of bars and watering-holes for after-dinner drinks, as well as an array of clubs in Paceville if you’re in the mood to party.

A TASTE OF GENUINE ISLAND LIFE Malta’s beautiful and peaceful sister island is a must-visit, no matter how brief your stay here is.

Gozo’s tranquillity and seemingly timeless atmosphere make it a favourite for a quick getaway, and one of its advantages is that it’s only 20 minutes away, thanks to the regularly-scheduled appearances of the Gozo Channel ferry. Whether you take a car up with you, or decide to make a hiking day out of it, get ready to enjoy a countryside hunt for the best that Gozo’s kitchens have to offer, ranging from fresh fish in charming seaside restaurants to the famously luscious ftira, a pizza-like delight layered with potatoes and heaped with local cheese, sausage or anchovies.

53

EATING & DRINKING

Il-Mithna Restaurant Il-Mitħna Restaurant offers simple yet creative dishes, ranging from double-baked truffle soufflé and USDA hanger steak to our signature dark chocolate fondant. We pride ourselves on using only the freshest seasonal produce which can be effortlessly paired with our extensive wine list.

Apart from offering a variety of vegetarian dishes upon request, we urge our patrons to inform us of any special dietary requirements. Free pick up and drop off service is also available from all Mellieħa areas upon request. Call on the numbers below for details and to reserve a table.

Il-Mitħna Restaurant, Triq il-Kbira, Mellieħa. T: 2152 0404; M (Manuel Attard): 7947 8896; www.mithna.com; Fb: facebook.com/ilmithna

Maltese Mama Maltese Mama serves authentic Maltese and Italian cuisines complemented with great service in a relaxing atmosphere. To start, patrons are offered a complimentary plate of traditional Maltese antipasti, served with fresh bread and galletti (water crackers).

Starters include home-made soups, octopus, scallops, clams, the speciality shellfish platter and pasta dishes. A variety of main courses is also available, with specialities including fish and traditional Maltese dishes such as rabbit and braġjoli (beef olives).

Maltese Mama, 19/2, Paceville Avenue, St Julian’s.

T: 2737 7024; M: 7780 5312; E: eltonspiteri@hotmail.co.uk

Shakinah – Indian Cuisine Situated on the St Julian’s seafront in Balluta Bay, Shakinah presents Indian tastes, scents and flavours, in an interesting selection of exquisitely prepared, Halal Certified colourful dishes. The fresh ingredients, oriental spices and interesting flavours are carefully handpicked by our native-born Indian chefs. Great emphasis has been placed on the décor, mood and general ambience to ensure a true Shakinah special experience. Allow yourself to be transported on a magic carpet ride to the exotic orient in the heart of St Julian’s.

Open Monday to Sunday 6.30-10.30pm and Sunday lunch 12.30-3pm.

Shakinah, 5, Ġorġ Borg Olivier Street, St Julian’s.

T: 2731 8000; M: 7731 8000; E: booking@shakinahmalta.com; www.shakinahmalta.com; Fb: facebook.com/shakinahmalta

Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro Right in the heart of Sliema lies Ta’ Kris Restaurant and Maltese Bistro, serving wholesome home cooking at unbeatable prices. Chef patron Chris uses the freshest ingredients to create tasty Maltese dishes like Dad’s Famous braġjoli, thick beef stew, veal escalopes and rabbit, and for those with a sweet tooth, the deliciously crunchy imqaret – a musttry date-filled pastry. Patrons are also spoilt for choice with the daily specials ranging from fresh fish to beef fillet and various pasta dishes. Everything at this price-worthy restaurant is served in the unique setting of a former bakery. Ta’ Kris is one of the best-rated restaurants by the Definitive(ly) Good Guide to Restaurants. Booking is recommended. Set menus for special occasions can also be arranged upon request.

Open daily 12.30-11pm. Ta’ Kris, 80, Fawwara Lane, Sliema.

T: 2133 7367; M: 9984 7713; www.takrisrestaurant.com

54

EATING & DRINKING

Ta’ Marija Celebrating 50 years of excellence and voted Best Restaurant for Maltese Food, Ta’ Marija restaurant offers the ideal venue for colleagues, friends and family to celebrate any occasion with sumptuous food in welcoming surroundings, complemented by our exceptional service and merriment in the making. Enjoy our all-inclusive carvery buffets on Saturday evenings and Sunday lunches for just €25 per person, or indulge in a Maltese extravaganza on Wednesday and Friday nights with a spectacular traditional folk dancing show and our mandolins and guitars duo!

Ta’ Marija Restaurant, Constitution Street, Mosta. T: 2143 4444; E: info@tamarija.com.mt; www.tamarija.com.mt

Terrone Terrone is a restaurant in the charming fishing village of Marsaxlokk that combines rustic charm with contemporary regional cuisine. Focusing on southern Italian and local Maltese cuisines, and hand-picking the best local and organic produce, we aim to recreate a healthy and enjoyable way of dining. We are open for coffee, lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast on weekends (8-11am) on the Marsaxlokk seafront.

Open from Monday to Sunday.

Terrone, 1, Wilġa Street, Marsaxlokk. T: 2704 2656; E: info@terrone.com.mt; www.terrone.com.mt

TAKE NOTE

TAKE NOTE

BANKS AND CURRENCY EXCHANGE Banks are normally open between 8.30am and 1.30pm Mon-Thur, between 8.30am and 3.30pm on Fri, and up to noon on Sat. Some banks open for longer hours. International bank cards are accepted and foreign currency is easily exchanged. Banks, Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) and exchange bureaux can be found all over the islands.

26 ta’ Mejju 1990. T: 2152 4666 Sliema Info Desk Plaza Commercial Centre. T: 2136 3691 St Paul’s Bay Misraħ il-Bajja (Buġibba). T: 2141 9176 Valletta Waterfront Pinto Wharf. T: 2122 0633 Birgu (Vittoriosa) Inquisitor’s Palace, Main Gate Street.

T: 2180 0145

USEFUL AND EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NOS 00356 International Code 112 Emergency Services 1182 Directory Enquiries 1152 Overseas Operator 195 Time Check 2124 9600 Flight Enquiries

Public hospital in Malta Mater Dei Hospital, B’Kara By-pass, B’Kara.

T: 2545 0000; E: mdh@gov.mt

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES IN MALTA Malta Tourism Authority-run offices may be found at: Valletta 28, Melita Street.

T: 2291 5440/1/2 Malta International Airport Arrivals Lounge, Luqa. T: 2369 6073/4 Gozo, Mġarr Gozo Channel Ferry Terminal.

T: 2155 4538 Gozo, Rabat 17, Independence Square. T: 2291 5452/3 Marsaxlokk Xatt is-Sajjieda. T: 2165 1151 Mdina St Publius Square. T: 2145 4480 Mellieħa Misraħ iż-żjara tal-Papa Gwanni Pawlu II-

Public hospital in Gozo Gozo General Hospital, Rabat.

T: 2156 1600 SMOKING No smoking is allowed in any entertainment establishment, including bars and restaurants, unless there is a designated smoking area.

Getting Around Malta is about 27 kilometres long and 14.5 kilometres wide. Short distances make it possible to make the most of your stay at a relaxed pace. The network of buses within the public transport system covers nearly all the islands.

Car hire rates in Malta are good value.

You may also enjoy a relaxing trip on the calm, blue Mediterranean Sea by taking an island or harbour cruise or cross between Valletta and Sliema by ferry at half hourly intervals.

BUSES The public transport services offered in the Maltese islands operate on a network offering multiple connections and main termini in Malta’s capital, Valletta, and Gozo’s capital, Rabat. A total of 80 different routes link the different localities in Malta to either major hubs such as Valletta, Mater Dei Hospital and the airport or to other destinations, while 15 routes operate in Gozo.

The public transport service runs daily between 5.30am and 11pm, with express routes (designated with an ‘X’) having limited stops and operating to and from the airport from different localities. Three digit routes link different localities together and, in most cases, do not serve Valletta.

A journey planner, timetable information and details on bus fares are available at www.publictransport.com.mt More details on T: 2122 2000 and on page 65.

TRAVELLING TO GOZO A regular ro-ro ferry service carries passengers and cars between Malta and Gozo. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

For information and time-tables contact The Gozo Channel Company on T: 2210 9000.

CAR HIRE Most international car hire companies have a branch in Malta. Local companies too offer this service, with or without a chauffeur. Car hire rates are very reasonable compared to those in other European countries.

TAXIS All taxis are fitted with meters and should charge government-controlled prices. Any complaints should be addressed to the Public Transport Authority, T: 2143 8475.

Over recent months, a number of private companies have also been set up to offer competitive chauffeur-driven services.

57

NIGHTLIFE

Have a Great Night !

From theatre and comedy to music and clubbing, Jo Caruana meets three well-known Maltese artists to discover the many after-dark pursuits that you could enjoy during your time on the island.

Actor and comedian Chris Dingli is well known for his hilarious stand-up routines and theatrical performances. He writes and performs in the popular annual sketch show The Comedy Knights, and is currently touring his one-man show Bad Dad locally and internationally.

“Looking back, I have been lucky enough to have visited and performed in wonderful places all over the UK and Malta. I’ve performed some of Shakespeare’s most celebrated works and played some of his most famous characters. Personally speaking, recent theatrical highlights were performing in Bad Dad in London and playing Lonny in Rock of Ages here in Malta over the summer.

“I think the local theatre scene has exploded in recent years. We’re seeing a much more diverse range of productions than we did a decade ago. The choice available for people is always growing, so there’s lots of options for evening entertainment.

The stand-up scene is on a much

Chris’ Tips smaller scale – there are only a handful of comedians on the island, and the scene is very much in its infancy.

“I’d encourage visitors to attend theatre or a performance whilst on holiday. There are a large number of cultural events happening all the time, both at the main theatrical venues, as well as those that are more on the fringe of the scene. Check out the newspapers, ask around and try to look beyond the usual fare offered to tourists, as there may be a production that’s not specifically aimed at visitors that could be just right for you. Standup is more difficult to find. There isn’t a permanent comedy club on the island, and therefore stand-up events can be elusive. They’re always advertised on social media though, so that would be the best place to look for them.

“As for me, I’m very excited to be taking my one-man comedy Bad Dad back to the UK for more

If you want to mingle with the thespian crowd in Malta, I recommend sticking around the theatre bar after the show.

There is also The Pub in Valletta that is run and frequented by theatre-types.

In terms of finding good shows that are on, you might have to do some of your own research as some concierges won’t have much knowledge of the theatrical scene and what’s on beyond the usual tourist recommendations.

Finally, if you’re browsing local bookshops be sure to look through the local books section. Many are written in English and there are some very good books that would be difficult to find outside of Malta.

performances there. I’ve performed it in London and Birmingham, and looking forward to adding Brighton and Edinburgh to that list this year, amongst others.”➜ 59

NIGHTLIFE Ruben Zahra is one of Malta’s bestknown international composers.

His current flagship project is a children’s opera entitled KIRANA, which has been presented in 10 different countries over the last couple of years and will continue to tour in the years to come.

Ruben is also the artistic director of Modern Music Days, a concert series of contemporary music that motivates audiences through adventurous programming and interdisciplinary presentations.

“Malta has a vibrant music scene with some truly outstanding events.

Every January, Teatru Manoel presents the Valletta International Baroque Festival portraying some of the best talent of Baroque music worldwide. Then, summer is Malta’s festival season. In June there’s Earth Garden – a three-day festival at the Ta’ Qali National Park with several music stages featuring a jam-packed programme of local and international DJs and bands. This event is followed

by Għanafest – Malta’s World Music Festival, which presents ethnofusion gigs as well as Malta’s own folk song tradition known as għana (pronounced ‘aana’). July boasts the Malta Jazz Festival as well as the Malta International Arts Festival,

which is the main platform for some of the year’s music highlights. A wide range of international artists have graced the stage of the MIAF, including Kronos Quartet, Arvo Pärt, Arditti Quartet, 2Cellos and STOMP to name a few. Throughout the year, classical music lovers should certainly check out the programme of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and Teatru Manoel.

“When it comes to music venues, Teatru Manoel takes first position because it presents a wide variety of music events: orchestral, chamber, opera, contemporary classical music, theatre, the Christmas pantomime, children’s educational programmes and so much more. My favourite spot for live jazz is Bridge Bar in Valletta, with its unique ambience and laid-back audience on the steps. If you want to experience the authentic għana (Maltese folk singing) head to Ta’ Ġanna Bar in Żejtun. Every Sunday morning għannejja (folk singers) gather at this bar to sing għana to the rhythm of traditional Maltese guitars.

“My next project will take place on 11th February, and comprises an event I am organising at Teatru Manoel, that connects contemporary music with video art entitled Rhythms of Vision. Each work in

Left: Modern Music Days - video still by Jean Pierre Gatt; Right: Modern Music Days - video by Vince Briffa

60

Ruben Zahra - Composer - Photo: Lisa Attard

Ruben’s Tips Malta has two main highlights in its history: the Neolithic temple culture and the Baroque heritage, so make sure to experience both. With regards to the Neolithic temples, Ħaġar Qim, Mnajdra and Ġgantija are probably the most accessible because they include a visitor’s centre and a well-structured itinerary.

Valletta has many treasures, from St John’s Co-Cathedral to the breath-taking view of the Grand Harbour. A must-see would have to be Caravaggio’s painting of the beheading of St John, exhibited within the Oratory of the Co-Cathedral.

Teatru Manoel, built in 1732, is one of the oldest ‘working’ theatres in the world and was voted as one of the 15 most beautiful theatres

by CNN. It is not to be missed by any music lovers visiting Malta.

the programme is assigned to a video artist, portraying a visual backdrop to the live performance of the music. This is a very exciting project because it portrays the interdisciplinary territory of today’s art scene. The project is supported by the Valletta 2018 Foundation and the programme includes works by local and international composers and visual artists.” ➜

NIGHTLIFE

Ziggy’s Tips While this may not be the best time of year for clubbing, it’s fantastic for other aspects of life in Malta. The atmosphere is more relaxed at the moment, so it’s perfect for getting to know our history and countryside.

If you’re on the island over Carnival, I recommend heading to Gozo. You’ll be in the company of thousands of revellers, who all flock there to enjoy this very special weekend. Oh, and don’t miss the Carnival parades too – they’re a party in their own right.

DJ Kurt Ziggy has been organising events since 2009 and he’s amassed an international following since. Highlights include his events in Ibiza, as well as the organisation of the hugely popular local summer festival Lost and Found.

“Malta has a fantastic clubbing scene in the summer, when a number of open-air clubs hold events and festivals that make the most of the fantastic weather. There are some events held at other times of the year, but they’re still limited.

62

“I think 2017 is going to be a good year, both for myself and my brands, as well as for the wider local scene. I am looking forward to creating my own productions, which is something I have wanted to do for a long time. I am kickstarting with a Ziggy event at the Carnival celebrations in Gozo – it should be a fantastic party and I would definitely invite any visitors to come along and join in!

“As a summer person myself, I would also recommend visiting Malta over the summer to make the most of the outdoor clubbing

Finally, return for summer! That’s when the clubbing scene really explodes, with loads of events taking place between June and September. I hope that the island will keep raising the standards of the party scene, as we definitely have something special to offer.

events that are held here – it’s well worth the trip. But spring is also gaining ground, and there are more and more events in April and May now, as well as in Gozo over Carnival. The weather makes all the difference to the scene here and it’s absolutely magical to be able to party the night away under the stars!”

Legend

1

0

52 56 181

MALTA

51

3 km

1

20

Il-Buskett

109

6

38

Ħaż-Żebbuġ

61

Ħ´ Attard

7

Blue Grotto

11

71 73 74

7

11

Iż-Żurrieq 73

Ħal Safi

8

21

0

1 124 213

L-Isla (Senglea)

88 226

X4

120,121

6

85

X4

Ħal Far

210 82

Birżebbuġa

88, 22

135

3

, 303

323

Ix-Xgħajra

4

124

6 21 0

80

92,

124

93

2

2 32

In-Nadur

302

N

301 309 311 308 310 301 302 303 302 305 313 308 307 306 309 301 305

302 303 323 306

322 330

312 322 303 322 323 303 322

302 303 305 306 307 308 310 311 312 313 323 330

1 2 3 4 13 14 15 16 21 22 24 25 31 32 35 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 58 61 62 63 64 71 72 73 74 80 81 82 83 84 85 88 91 92 93 94 122 130 131 133 238 250 260 X4 Malta International Airport 117 119 135 201 X1 X2 X3 X4 2 3 4 124 213 Il-Birgu 80 81 119 210 X4 Birżebbuġa 71 201 Blue Grotto 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 Buġibba / Qawra 280 X3 221 222 250 X1 X1A 41 42 101 201 Ċirkewwa Ferry 56 186 202 201 Ta’ Qali 52 56 181 201 Ħad-Dingli 223 225 44 101 201 Golden Bay 1 124 213 L-Isla 213 N3 3 201 Il-Kalkara 91 92 93 119 124 135 201 204 N91 Marsaskala 81 85 119 210 Marsaxlokk 22 31 32 109 110 117 120 121 Mater Dei Hospital 122 135 181 182 204 206 201 201 209 233 238 213 218 226 201 201 210 201 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 Mdina 186 201 202 250 X3 221 222 250 41 42 49 101 201 Il-Mellieħa X1 X1A 201 44 101 213 L-Imġarr 14 120 Paceville 50 51 52 53 56 109 181 182 Ir-Rabat 186 201 202 250 X3 13 14 15 16 21 201 202 204 Tas-Sliema 201 201 222 225 201 233 X3 212 81 82 201 206 Ħal-Tarxien 71 73 74 117 201 218 Iż-Żurrieq

Valletta

MALTA - Index of places served

L-Għarb Marsalforn L-Mġarr In-Nadur Il-Qala Ir-Ramla Ta’ Sannat Santa Luċija / Kerċem Ta’ Pinu Church / L-Għasri Ix-Xagħra Ix-Xlendi Żebbuġ Ix-Xewkija Il-Munxar

Victoria

KEMMUNA GOZO - Index of places served (COMINO)

Il-Qala

Kemmunett Id-Dwejra (Cominotto)

L-Imġarr

322 323 301 303

303

303

www.freytagberndt.com

St.Thomas Bay

91 92 93 119 124 135 204

32

2,

GĦAWDEX (GOZO)

Date: 17th July 2016 © FREYTAG-BERNDT & ARTARIA KG, VIENNA

Delimara

Marsaxlokk Market

Marsaxlokk

5 13 9, 11

Pretty Bay

85

81 85

81,119

84, 20

206 Iż-Żejtun Marsaskala 84

91, 12 92 ,93 20 4

Ħaż-Żabbar

323

Għajnsielem

301

Ġgantija Temples

302

Ix-Xewkija

94 120 121

94

Fort Rinella

3 Il-Kalkara

204

307

30

302

Ramla Bay

Ta’ Kola Windmill

307

BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Tarxien Temples Ħal Tarxien

Ħal Għaxaq

226

Il Gudja

135

Santa Luċija

, 8 0 ,83

83

4

213

213 1 Il-Fgura 90,91 92,93,94

Raħal Ġdid (Paola)

2,3,4

(Cospicua)

2

Il-Belt VALLETTA Il-Birgu (Vittoriosa)

1

33

Tas-Sliema

305

30 1,3 03

Ir-Rabat (Victoria) 30 2 32 3

307

310 322

Marsalforn Bay

Ix-Xagħra

309 Marsalforn

Il-Munxar Ta´Sannat

330

306,

X1A Bormla

1

BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Ħal-Luqa

313

Ta´Kerċem

1

15 21 202 203 212 222 225

Ta´ Xbiex

Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum

0

Il-Marsa

12

Tal-Pieta'

15

21

Il-Gżira

, 11

21

,16

, 19

74

72

74

110

64

56

50,54,

L-Imsida

32

,73

Mnajdra Ħaġar Qim Temples Temples

Ħaġar

Il-Qrendi

74

63

Baluta

119 201 X1 X1B X2 X3 117 Malta Int. Airport 218 72

209

61,62

63

64

22 21

,14

13

San Ġiljan (St. Julians)

X2

St.George´s Bay

306 330

313

2

31

8,

30 31

308

L-Għasri

8

30

Santa Luċija

Ix-Xlendi Xlendi Bay

San Ġwann

0,1

11

IsSwieqi 120

14

University Mater Dei Hospital

2,53

Ħal Qormi

58 51,5

22

106

L-Imqabba

Is-Siġġiewi

62 209

4

233 16 25 35 2 2 16

Pembroke

14 103 110 120 121 14

71

109

Bajjada

L-Iklin

3

,10

X1

13

Ħal Balzan Birkirkara

41-49 203, 25 0,260 280 54

43

202, 203

46 260

49

Ħal Għargħur

,182 181

9 10

1 20

61

,5 50,52,5 3

X3

106 54

13

Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq

5 17,13

Għar Lapsi

9

10

Buskett Gardens

Ir-Rabat

53 186 201 202

202

47

3

10

In-Naxxar Mosta Dome Il-Mosta

186

25 0

186

Ta'Qali

56

Ta' Qali National Stadium

L-Imdina

182

Tarġa

49

Salini

21 2 , 22 2, 2 25 X 1, X1A

San Lawrenz

Id-Dwejra

311

312

Iż-Żebbuġ

80,82 , 85

2

51

L-Imtarfa

Il-Bidnija

38

44, 2

103

1B

Burmarrad

X1,X

Il-Qawra

106 117 122 135 181 182 204 206 209 210 213 218 226 233 238 260 280

Azure Window

Ta´Pinu Church L-Għarb 309

310

wa

1

A

X1

San Pawl il-Baħar (St. Paul‘s Bay)

Buġibba

X3 31 45 48 186 203 212 221 223 280

St. Paul‘s Islands

BAĦAR MEDITERRAN (MEDITERRANEAN SEA)

Il-Wardija

50

Ħad-Dingli

Skorba Temples

Dingli Cliffs

109

Ta’ Ħaġrat

101 238

Bus routes Bus routes only summer Number of bus route Place of departure/arrival Key bus stop Sales and information office Bus interchange Tourist information Heritage site Place of interest Airport Hospital Ferry Beach

Il-Baħrija

109

Il-Ġnejna

01

L-Imġarr

Ġnejna Bay

1

25

223, 2

Il-Mellieħa

Mellieha Bay

44, 10

101

49

Għajn Tuffieħa

Golden Bay

101

L-Għadira

49

56

1

,

44 223 225

Popeye Village

22 1

X1B

101

47

6

49

202

305,30

Paradise Bay

181, 56

54,106

0

Iċ-Ċirkewwa

2 20 1, 6,18 52,5

109

31

Ċirkewwa Ferry

62,109

25, 35

311 71

305

X1 X1A X1B 41 42 Armier Bay 101 221 222 250

4

,85

218

,82

201

80

,88

1

73, 1

26

117

0,2

20

218

3

72

2, 5

3

51

,X

18

X1,X

X2

1

X3

,12

31

94

5,48,186, X3 ,42,4 ,41 31 203,250,280

120

0

21

9

0 ,25

26

206

11

2 22 103 31

4

210

1A , 260

81,8

135

ġa Im L-

,X 16 124

91

to

41,42 X1

B, ,X1

ew Ferr y to Ċirk

119

rr y Fe

2

32 303

rr

MALTA BY BUS

11 X4

9

65

valletta

66