The Bulletin Travel - Summer 2019

INSPIRING BELGIUM’S INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY

© Visit Brussels/Eric Danhier

© Courtesy Bosbar

© Skuds/Simon Fusillier

© Courtesy Brasserie C

135 THINGS TO DO IN BELGIUM THIS SUMMER

© Toerisme Limburg

© WBT/JL Flémal

© Courtesy Petit Train à Vapeur

© Courtesy Escape the City

© Jonas Verhulst

© Charleroi Communication/Luc Denruyter

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The insider’s guide to exploring every corner of the country

Inspiration for all the family with activities for all ages – lots of them free

Full agenda of festivals, events & cultural highlights

A breath of fresh air

A short ride from Brussels you’ll find Gaasbeek Castle, site of a changing roster of temporary exhibitions, some tailored to the site, plus beautiful parkland dating back to the 17th century, walled garden, a handful of historic buildings, majestic beech trees and even a few peacocks. kasteelvangaasbeek.be

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Lying outside the historic town, Aqua Tournai is a nature reserve in the disused Orient quarry, with indoor and outdoor swimming pools, fishing ponds, boating and walking trails, plus additional outdoor slides and play for kids during the summer. visittournai.be

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Slow travel

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Sweet dreams

Sleep in the trees of Borgloon as part of this architectural art project by Dutch artist Dré Wapenaar. Dubbed Tranendreef (Path of Tears), the camping site also includes environmentally friendly toilets and sinks. Little ladders are provided to get you inside. tinyurl.com/tranendreef

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Get a different view of the capital as you potter along on a canal boat. Brussels By Water offers evening apero cruises, day trips, combined boat-bike-train excursions and even a chance to travel on the remarkable sloping lock at Ronquières. brusselsbywater.be

Ready, set, guinguette

The beautiful gardens of former monastery Abbey of La Cambre are always worth a visit – and even more so in the summer, when a family-friendly beer garden-style bar sets up shop with benches and tables and a cute refreshment stand in the tradition of the French guinguettes. guinguettesbarc.be 2 I SUMMER 2019

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It’s all gravey

Brussels’s oldest cemetery is the final resting place of a number of notable folk, and is also home to an original cast of Rodin’s The Thinker. Its underground burial galleries, recently restored, add an extra layer of atmosphere. laeken.brussels

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Up, up and away

Ever looked up at a hot air balloon and thought you should really do that sometime? Belgium has a few companies offering flights above the loveliest parts of the country.

A romantic champagne experience or simply family fun. hotairballoon.be, aerovolare.be

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Dining à la cart

Select a menu from a range of seasonal and local produce and choose your route - beer, wine, storytelling, museum or show - and hit the high road in these Ardennes shire horse and cart trips.

Le Chariot à fondue is an all-year-round activity by Ardenne Trait Gourmand. chariotafondue.wixsite.com/laetitia

Until 18 August Ghlin-Erbisoeul Exhibition at Mons Memorial Museum dedicated to the camp that was home to 52,000 German prisoners of war ÄÄtinyurl.com/Erbisoeul Until 25 August Intimate Audrey Exhibition about Audrey Hepburn at Espace Vanderborght, curated by her son, to celebrate the 90th anniversary of her birth in Brussels ÄÄbruxelles.be/exposition-intimate-audrey

Park life

From art to zumba, Schaerbeek’s Josaphat park pulls out all the stops to keep young and old entertained over the summer.

The Park To Be is a packed programme of 200 free activities spread across every day of the holidays.

Nine themed weekends are also on the agenda, including an open-air cinema, urban farm and Schaerbeek Plage, with deckchairs, water fountains and a bicycle-propelled fruit juice maker. An info stand is staffed every afternoon, where you can borrow park games including the highly addictive Mölkky, a Finnish take on skittles. While you’re in the park, enjoy a round of mini-golf and watch some vertical archery next to the Buvette Sint-Sebastiaan.

Next to the park’s resident donkeys, Camille and Gribouille, you’ll find Josaphine’s, a new kiosk that takes the hassle out of picnicking: it sells bagels, hot dogs and hampers full of picnic food, and rents out waterproof blankets, plates and all the cutlery. theparkto.be, facebook.com/josaphines

Agenda

Until 1 September Fiona Tan: Shadow Archive The renowned Amsterdam-based artist explores memory and identity, mixing photography, video and text in Grand-Hornu ÄÄmac-s.be Until 30 September Carolus Festival Celebration of Brussels’ Renaissance history includes the massive Ommegang procession and spectacle ÄÄtinyurl.com/CarolusFestival

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Until 5 January Art Liberty Free outdoor exhibition at the Bastogne War Museum displays works created on fragments of the Berlin Wall ÄÄbastognewarmuseum.be

 Food & drink Heritage Family Outdoors Discover Nightlife Time out SUMMER 2019 I 3

Is this the real life?

Shall we Frunch?

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Europe’s biggest virtual reality park opened this spring.

Virtual Park in Mouscron, just north of Tournai, is a 4,000m2 digital world with zones for visitors of all ages and all levels of experience. Ideal for families, friends and corporate teambuilding events. virtualpark.eu

Every Friday, gather at the BIP courtyard on Brussels’ Place Royale for Frunch, the laid-back lunch party with food trucks, live music, cocktails and chillout terrace.

Sign up for a loyalty card for discounts on food, drink and culture. frunch.brussels

In memoriam

Black gold

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Just outside Charleroi is this lovingly preserved coal mine, a memorial to the 1956 disaster in which 262 men died and a testament to the region’s proud industrial heritage.

Watch artisans at work and peruse a remarkable collection of glassware dating back thousands of years. leboisducazier.be

Belgium is marking the 75th anniversary of its liberation in World War Two with a year-long programme of activities. So this is an ideal time to walk around the Peace Wood, where in 1974, local children planted 4,000 trees in honour of the fallen Allied and Belgian soldiers, on the 50th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge. The trees – birches, beech and oaks – were planted so that the form of the Unicef emblem is visible from above.

In the centre of the woods, martyr villages from all over Europe are remembered on panels, while nearby foxhole remains recall the conditions endured by the Easy Company, the 101st US airborne division that fought during the bitter winter of 1944-45. The woodland lies between the Mardasson Memorial in Bastogne and the village of Bizory. tracesofwar.com

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Boat away from home

Floating on a waterway heading out of the town of Nieuwpoort is the Homeboat, a beautiful, unique way to spend a weekend at the coast. Owned by expats, Homeboat is a fully equipped holiday accommodation and just 1km from the centre of town. rental.homeboat.eu

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Bird’s-eye view

A new eco-friendly bird-spotting observatory overlooks the Val Dieu nature reserve, near Aubel (Liège). In the middle of the seven-hectare reserve opposite the famous abbey, it’s perfect for wildlife photographers and school groups. paysdeherve.natagora.be

Tiny trains, big fun

Little (and big) railway fans will love this miniature train ride around beautiful parkland in Forest, lovingly maintained by a group of enthusiasts. The Petit Train à Vapeur runs at weekends until the end of June, and Sundays only from July. A 12-minute lap costs €3. ptvf.fte2.org

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On tour

Whatever your interests – industrial heritage, comics, war memorials, architecture, surrealism, Jacques Brel – there’s a self-guided tour of Brussels for you. Pick up a €1 pocket-sized map at the Grand’ Place tourist office and explore the city based on a theme close to your heart.

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Meals on wheels

Until 31 January Beyond Bruegel Immersive experience at Brussels’ Place de la Dynastie puts visitors in the paintings of the master of the Flemish Renaissance ÄÄbeyondbruegel.be Until end 2020 Belgium Remembers Commemoration of the 75th anniversary of the liberation of Belgium in World War Two, with exhibitions and special events around the country ÄÄbelgiumremembers44-45.be

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Take two icons of Brussels – the rickety old tram and the cornet of frites – and you get Le Tram de Boitsfort, a takeaway and tiny restaurant serving burgers, fries and other fritkot favourites. Reserve if you’re hoping to snag one of the four tables on board. letramdeboitsfort.be

Agenda

8 & 9 June SuperVliegSuperMouche Family open-air arts and performance festival with clowns, musicians, magicians, dancers, artists and more in Brussels’ leafy Forest park ÄÄsupervliegsupermouche.be 8 June-3 January 2021 Operation North Sea 1944-45 Exhibition on the war at sea and the battle for the Scheldt Estuary on Zeebrugge’s promenade ÄÄseafront.be 13-23 June Dinner in the Sky Fine dining served by a celebrated chef with diners strapped into a chair suspended 50m above the Brussels canal ÄÄdinnerinthesky.be 20-29 June Brussels International Film Festival New cinema from around the world, with competitions, premieres, special guests and free open-air screenings ÄÄbriff.be

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Is it a bird?

Summer jammin’

Clear skies ensure a buzz of aeronautical activities above Namur. Watch light aircraft, gliders, parachutists and drones at the aerodrome in Temploux – the terrace of restaurant-bar l’Envol is an ideal spot for a panoramic view, though you may be tempted to reach for the skies yourself! aerodromedenamur.be

What’s better than sipping a wellmixed Negroni on a rooftop with a stunning view over the city? At Jam Hotel, a veritable design gem, you have all that and more: the rooftop even boasts a (suitably Instagrammable) pool. jamhotel.be

C U there?

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Brasserie C is installed at the foot of the Montagne de Bueren steps and boasts one of the best terraces in the city (open Thursday to Sunday).

Its artisan beer Curtius is named after Liège’s sumptuous museum of decorative arts. brasseriec.com

A fresh view of the past

The Africa Museum in Tervuren (with its lush surrounding park) has undergone extensive renovations, in both facilities and perspective.

It now focuses on contemporary Africa – its biodiversity, music and languages – and offers a more critical appraisal of Belgium’s colonial past. africamuseum.be

Ghost stories

Art in the streets

If you don’t want to spend your time inside a stuffy museum during the summer but are still craving a dose of art, here’s the perfect alternative: the Brussels street art tour lets you discover art under the open sky. There’s a handy map letting you plan your own itinerary. parcoursstreetart.brussels 6 I SUMMER 2019

On summer evenings, the phantom of Berthe, the lovelorn daughter of a 10th-century count, can be seen at 22.00 from the Faubourg quarter of La Roche-en-Ardenne, high up in the town’s castle. Warning: in case of rain or strong winds, Berthe fails to appear.

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Drop Anker

If you’ve never spent a day in Mechelen, shame on you. It’s loaded with places to visit and never-ending charm; its main square alone has some of Belgium’s most glorious architecture, some of it Unescoprotected. Park yourself outside a cafe and order local brew Het Anker. visit.mechelen.be

Agenda 20-29 June Brussels Shakespeare Summer Festival First edition of event at Théâtre La Balsamine includes Henry V and two original plays inspired by the bard ÄÄthelittleboxoffice.com/bss 21 June-1 September Summer of Antwerp Theatre, circus, cinema, concerts, pop-up bars and parades all summer long, much of it free ÄÄzva.be

Sun, swim, sand

It’s easy to imagine you’re on holiday at Renipont Plage, in the Walloon Brabant countryside. Take a dip at this charming water hole in Lasne, complete with playground, sandy beach and extended lawn. Entrance is €8 for adults, €6 for children. While the swimming spot is open only during summer, the south-orientated eatery and bar La Guinguette is open all year round and is a convivial spot. The terrace is a popular place in the summer, bathed by the sun’s rays until late evening. facebook.com/Renipont

Croq’n’roll

Tuck into Brussels’ best shrimp croquettes at Fernand Obb, a newcomer to the scene in SaintGilles. The bustling deli-cafe dishes up award-winning croquettes alongside boudin burgers and witloof salad – and don’t miss the crunchy potato waffles. fernand-obb.be

27-30 June Rock Werchter The country’s biggest music festival with nearly 100 acts, including P!nk, Tool, The Cure and Mumford & Sons ÄÄrockwerchter.be 28-30 June Couleur Café World music festival in Brussels with acts including Ms Lauryn Hill, Craig David and Zwangere Guy ÄÄcouleurcafe.be 28-30 June Musiq3 Classical meets rock’n’roll in a unique Brussels festival known for its diversity and appeal to youngsters ÄÄtinyurl.com/musiq3festival 28 June-8 September The 12th Time Zone Exhibition showing the thriving contemporary art scene in Russia, at Bozar in Brussels ÄÄbozar.be 29 June-9 July Gent Jazz Open-air festival with 40 acts, including Sting, Joan Baez, John Zorn and Jamie Cullum ÄÄgentjazz.com

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Child’s play

Gastro food truck Guinguette Mobile returns to its woodland spot at La Plante overlooking the Meuse, south of Namur. Former Michelin-starred chef Benoît Van den Branden serves tasty bites and drinks; arrive early to bag a spot at one of the ginghamdressed wooden tables. benoitvandenbranden.be

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People can live in Belgium for years and not know that it’s home to Europe’s largest Japanese Garden. Besides the cherry trees, koi-filled lake and authentic landscaping and architectural elements, there are special events all summer long. japanesegarden.be

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Hanssens Park in Vilvoorde is a playground paradise.

Its play structures are unique and creative, while it offers a bit of serenity for parents with its walking paths and large pond, crossed by a picturesque bridge and peppered with ducks. natuurenbos.be/hanssenspark

Brussels à la Provence

One of Brussels’ many charms is its dash of French savoir-vivre, something that manifests itself each summer in the countless spontaneous pétanque games that take place all over the city. In case you’ve never played it, the popular game originating from Provence follows an easy concept: players have to throw their boules as close as possible towards a smaller target ball and whoever gets closest wins. It’s popular with grandparents, children, and everyone in between, and terrains can be found all over Brussels, both in freely accessible parks (such as Tenbosch and Cinquentenaire) or for a small fee (in the Stade d’Ixelles, for instance). Pétanque sets are cheaply available in sports stores such as Décathlon. Best enjoyed exactly as French tradition commands: with a glass of pastis in your hand.

National pride

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Belgium only has one national park, so if you’ve never been to the Hoge Kempen, summer is a great time to explore it. Walking and cycling paths abound, and there are family-friendly activities in the six recreation areas that act as the park’s access points. nationaalparkhogekempen.be

Feel the ground beneath your feet

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Barefoot paths are great fun, as everyone abandons their shoes for the feel of earth, mud, sand and pebbles under their feet. Wade through ponds and test your balance hopping between wooden posts. A top barefoot path is Lieteberg in Limburg. lieteberg.be

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Like Mamma used to make

It turns out Antwerp is the place to go to taste some of the best pizza in Europe. Del Popolo, near Central Station, impressed the judges and readers of Big 7 Travel when they compiled their list of Europe’s 50 best pizza joints this year. Add it to your list of food destinations this summer. delpopolo.pizza

Crypt creeping

The Saint Hermes Church in Ronse, East Flanders, is home to its namesake’s relics and was one of Europe’s biggest pilgrimage sites for its water’s healing effects. The underground crypt is beautifully restored and houses some great archaeological pieces. ontdekronse.be

Stylish pop-up

Bruges’ city theatre is celebrating 150 years with a pop-up bar during July and August in the handsome square at its entry.

Bruges Triennial and hip local architect firm Dertien12 are involved, so it’s sure to look as good as its summer cocktails taste. facebook.com/URBEGGCafe

Agenda 1 July-26 August Oostende Koerse Horse and harness racing every Monday, followed by a mounted military parade at the historic Wellington Hippodrome ÄÄoostendekoerse.be 1 July-30 August Festival des Minimes Free lunchtime classical, jazz and world concerts in Brussels’ Royal Museums of Fine Arts ÄÄfestivaldesminimes.be 4-7 July Brussels Grand Depart Several days of activities as the Tour de France takes off from Brussels for the first time since 1958 ÄÄbrusselsgranddepart.com 4-7 July Les Ardentes Liege’s electro-rock summer music festival, featuring The Black Eyed Peas, Booba, Juice Wrld and more ÄÄlesardentes.be 5-7 July Cactus Festival Bruges’s big summer music festival features headliners Joe Jackson, Trixie Whitley and Cat Power ÄÄcactusfestival.be 5-19 July Bruxelles fait son Cinéma Open-air film screenings in squares and parks, with a stop in nearly every Brussels municipality ÄÄbruxellesfaitsoncinema.be 8 July-15 August Fireworks Festival Eight Belgian fireworks manufacturers compete to win this annual free event promising spectacular displays in Ostend ÄÄtinyurl.com/FireworksFestival

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Art meets greenery

Set out your stall

Once the home of the Van Buuren family, this architectural gem is now a museum. A beautiful Art Deco interior and artworks by Ensor and Van Gogh await visitors, while the surrounding gardens filled with sculptures and labyrinths make it the perfect summer escape. museumvanbuuren.be

Perfect for an after-work apero or to impress visiting friends, Brussels’ evening markets pop up in squares across the city five nights a week, with an appetising line-up of food trucks and wine bars plus the usual deli, bakery and fruit and veg stalls.

Place Van Meenen, Saint-Gilles (Mon), Place Luxembourg, Ixelles (Tue), Place Châtelain, Ixelles (Wed), Place Albert, Forest (Thu), Place des Chasseurs Ardennais, Schaerbeek (Fri)

Who goes there?

Holy trinity

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The provinces of Antwerp, Flemish Brabant and Limburg meet on the grounds of the Averbode Abbey, which isn’t the only reason to visit.

Besides the glorious 17th-century church, there’s an eatery and a shop selling products made by the Norbertine monks and local artisans. averbodemoment.be

Beersel Castle was built by Godefroid de Hellebeke in the 13th century to defend Brussels and Brabant from Flanders. It’s one of the few remaining examples in Belgium of a military fortress from the Middle Ages, and it’s truly a formidable architectural structure. Three tall defensive towers give it an interesting triangular shape, and the entire castle remains largely unchanged from how it appeared when it was restored towards the end of the 15th century. The province is working on a plan that will restore parts of the castle that are now in ruins. Though, truth, be told, its current state gives it a rugged, intimidating edge, making it easier to imagine the gory medieval battles that took place here. You can almost picture soldiers throwing stones and pouring hot oil on to their attackers. It’s open to visitors throughout the summer and autumn. en.visitbeersel.be

Snake city

The coastal city of Blankenberge is home to Belgium’s only reptile zoo, and it’s fantastic.

The Serpentarium is under the management of Antwerp Zoo and hosts an abundance of snakes, lizards and frogs, from the tiny to the massive, in realistic settings. zooserpentarium.be

What’s the buzz?

Bee Tasty, an organic bee farm in Denée, Namur province, has 130 hives and sells a range of products including honey, nougat, candles and beer, also available from its online shop. Open to the public by appointment for a fascinating peek into a bee’s life. beetasty.be

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Agenda

Walk on water

You too can walk – or cycle – on water when you visit Limburg’s sunken bridge, which Time magazine included on its Greatest Places list for 2018. Cycling Through Water spans one of the lakes dotting the Wijers region of Limburg. cyclingthroughwater.com

10-14 July Dour Festival Alt rock, reggae and hip-hop combine in this massive music festival, this year featuring A$AP Rocky, Action Brongon and Cypress Hill ÄÄdourfestival.eu

Wine not?

Marchienne-au-Pont is home to one of the best wine bars and shops in the Charleroi area. Saka 20 is particularly appealing in the summer when its wine garden, La Vinguette, opens for tipples, tapas and music. saka20.com

Go wild

Thrill-seekers can kayak, raft, pot-hole, quad bike, try aerial activities and play laser games at the Wildtrails Basecamp near La Rocheen-Ardenne, Luxembourg province.

Teambuilding events are also possible. wildtrails.be

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13 & 14 July Brosella Free folk and jazz festival in a lovely garden amphitheatre near the Atomium, with special Kids Brosella section ÄÄbrosella.be 13 July-18 August Foire du Midi Brussels’ big summer fairground with more than 130 rides, plus games and other amusements ÄÄfete-foraine.be 13 July-31 August Festival Eté Mosane Classical music festival in glorious abbeys, imposing castles and idyllic churches in the Meuse valley ÄÄetemosan.be

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The ancient abbey of Orval is home to one of Belgium’s famed Trappist beers as well as being a peaceful rural retreat deep in Luxembourg province.

Visit the Cistercian ruins and taste its homegrown cheese as well as the world-revered fruity but bitter brew. orval.be

11 July-14 September Festival Bruxellons!

Twentieth anniversary edition of the French-language theatre festival, featuring a new translation of My Fair Lady ÄÄbruxellons.be

16 July-11 August Cyrano de Bergerac Open-air performance of the French classic staged in the grounds of the imposing Villers Abbey ÄÄdeldiffusion.be

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Make like a tourist

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Tourists tend to do things that residents never do, but not always because they don’t know any better. Take carriage rides, which are just delightful, damn it. Book – or just show up – to take one in, Bruges, Brussels and other cities. There are also countryside wagon tours. tinyurl.com/carriagebruges carriagetourbrussels.com

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Chop chop

The latest craze to reach Brussels is axe-throwing. No, really. At Woodcutter, you can shake off the week’s stresses by chucking an axe at a target to score points while supping a beer.

It’s challenging, it’s cathartic – just follow the rules so nobody gets hurt. Opening soon in Antwerp too. woodcutter.be

Take a hike

Hike the Ninglinspo valley near Aywaille in Liège province, one of Wallonia’s outstanding heritage areas. The lush spot, with waterfalls and dams, is Belgium’s only mountain river.

Hiking map recommended. en.ardennes-etape.be

Drink in the view

Sip a cold beer or nibble on some charcuterie while perched on what feels like the top of the world. Bar Duden, in the park of the same name in Forest and created by the folks behind Bio Vrac organic shop, appears every summer, with its smart marquee, its deckchairs and its stunning view across rolling parkland to the Justice Palace and the Brussels skyline beyond. It’s an uphill trek from almost every direction, so you’ll have earned that beer (or wine, prosecco or homemade lemonade) by the time you arrive; refuel with flammkuechen, empanadas, samosas and cheese platters. Kids’ activities, live music, salsa classes and more are on the programme, and it’s an ideal spot for a round of pétanque – or, alternatively, just sitting back and watching the world and its dogs go by. facebook.com/BiovracShop

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An enviable position

Stop by for lunch or just have a drink on the terrace with the best view in Ghent. While you might have to compete for a table at De Foyer on sunny days, your efforts will be worth it as you gaze on to Sint-Baafsplein from an upper storey of the city theatre. foyerntgent.be

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Agenda

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Good vibes

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Living in Belgium, you’ve surely visited a brewery before. Right? No matter, if you find yourself in Bruges, don’t miss De Halve Maan, the city’s only brewery and home to the legendary beer pipeline. Brugse Zot or Straffe Hendrik, you can’t go wrong. halvemaan.be

Pop-up world cafe La Buena Onda has opened in an empty space attached to Geel’s stately 15th-century town hall. The very cosy space offers drinks, tapas, concerts, exhibitions and workshops until at least the end of September. tinyurl.com/labuenageel

Market leader

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If antiques are your thing, get yourself to Tongeren on a Sunday morning. For almost 50 years, Belgium’s biggest weekly flea market has been attracting thousands, with its 350 stalls packing the historic town’s streets. Street theatre and live music add to the fun in summer. antiekmarkt-tongeren.be

Dive in

Like its ‘twin’, Spa, the Château des Thermes at Chaudfontaine is a haven for luxury pampering. Access the resort for a day or enjoy a longer soak with an overnight stay.

Indoor and outdoor facilities plus a full menu of treatments. chateaudesthermes.be

18-21 July Francofolies de Spa Rock, pop, reggae and soul come together at this celebration of French-language music, featuring Patrick Bruel, Zazie and Angèle ÄÄfrancofolies.be 19-21 July Blues Peer Limburg’s annual roots and blues festival, with The Allman Betts Band, Beth Hart, Matt Schofield and Black Box Revelation ÄÄbluesfestival.be 19-28 July Gentse Feesten Ghent’s big summer bash, the largest combination music and theatre festival in the world, much of it free ÄÄgentsefeesten.be 21 July National Day Services, parades, street fair and other free festivities in the centre of Brussels on Belgium’s national holiday ÄÄsibp.be 23 July-25 August Opening of the royal palace Annual summer opening of the palace in Brussels’ city centre, with exhibitions and family activities ÄÄmonarchie.be 31 July-10 August Theater Aan Zee Ostend’s mostly Dutch-language summer theatre festival, including exhibitions and concerts ÄÄtheateraanzee.be

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Ride the rapids

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Taste of Brussels

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Forest bathing

Remember when ‘forest bathing’ was just called hiking?

Whatever you call it, the network of forests in the Flemish Ardennes offers the idyllic experience you’re seeking. In southern East Flanders you’ll find interlinking forests with signposted walking and cycling paths.

They all have ample free parking, and, this being Belgium, there are usually cafes and restaurants at trailheads. In the case of the sublime Kluisbos (bos means ‘forest’ in Dutch), you’re in for a surprise when you take the Kluisbos or Taalgrens trail and run into a bar smack in the middle of the forest. The terribly hip Bosbaar terrace blends in with its surroundings, with benches made of wooden planks and tree trunks, loads of plants, birdhouses and other forest-like decor. Cocktails, a solid beer list and tapas offer plenty more reasons to drop by. Open at weekends only. natuurenbos.be/kluisbos, facebook.com/bosbaar

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Medieval mischief

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Founded in 1900, Cantillon brewery is a slice of Brussels history.

Follow their ‘lambic stroll’ from the city centre to get there, tour the family-run site by yourself or with a guide, then enjoy a gueuze, kriek or framboise in the bar after. cantillon.be

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Kayaking one of Wallonia’s rivers is a must in summer. The Semois, Ourthe, Viroin and Lesse are ideal spots to test your skills or simply lie back and admire the scenery. Various companies rent equipment and can pick you up afterwards. Don’t forget a change of clothes! walloniebelgiquetourisme.be

Handed a map and a bag of clues, you’ll solve riddles and meet princes and sorcerers at Sortilège, a magical medievalthemed adventure park in 22 hectares of nature on the outskirts of Brussels. The itinerary can be adjusted for all ages – from little explorers to grown-up team-building exercises. sortilege.be

Seahorses

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Oostduinkerke on the Belgian coast is the only place in the world you’ll still see shrimp fisherman entering the sea on horseback. It’s done now for tourists more than for trade, but it’s still a wonderful sight. And they do bring back lots of those little brown shrimps. tinyurl.com/shrimpfishermen

Dream time

Gaze up at the stars when glamping in the village of Wanze between Liège and Namur. Its new ‘enchanted bubble’ is an even cosier option where happy campers can enjoy a threecourse meal by master chef Jean-Luc Lambotte. sleepinabubble.com

Nice ice, baby

If you’re looking for real Italian-style artisan ice cream in Brussels, Glacier Zizi has been the locals’ preferred choice for decades. Whenever the sun comes out, a long queue forms at the Uccle institution, which has been serving delicious scoops for more than 60 years. It’s worth the wait! glacierzizi.be ©E ric Da nh ier

Waterworks

Dive beneath the city’s streets to explore a section of Brussels’ 350km-long sewer network, and discover what exactly happens to your water before it comes out of your tap and after it goes down the drain. sewermuseum.brussels

Sea & cycle

Some of Belgium’s best biking is at the Belgian coast, with its ocean-front paths wending into forests and along inland waterways. There are innumerable signposted routes, and you can easily transport your bike on the train. belgiancoast.co.uk

Agenda 2-4 August Festival Dranouter Family-friendly folk music festival in the West Flemish countryside, featuring Joan as Police Woman and Tom Odell ÄÄfestivaldranouter.be 2-4 August Esperanzah!

World music festival at the atmospheric Floreffe Abbey, featuring Caravan Palace, Danakil and Michael Kiwanuka ÄÄesperanzah.be 2-4 August Gouvy Jazz Fortieth anniversary edition of jazz and blues festival in idyllic location in the Ardennes ÄÄmadelonne.be/40e-festival 2-11 August MA Festival The 56th edition of Bruges’s festival of early music explores the connection between God, humans and machines ÄÄmafestival.be 7-11 August Antwerp Pride Port city’s celebration of the LGBTI community, including parade, parties, concerts and special recognition of 50 years since the Stonewall uprising ÄÄantwerppride.eu 7-18 August Le Royal Festival de Spa The finest in French-language theatre, this 60th anniversary edition includes drama, comedy, musicals, cabaret and children’s activities ÄÄfestivaldespa.be

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Pick your own

Take a trip to the country without leaving the city at Fruit Time. The Anderlecht farm is the place to pick strawberries in June and raspberries and other berries and flowers from July to September. If you don’t fancy making your own preserves, pick up a jar of their homemade raspberry jam. fruit-time.be

Walk with a view

See why Dinant is among the top 15 cities to visit in 2019, according to European Best Destinations, by strolling through the Bois du Casino. Its paths offer panoramic views of the pearl of the Meuse and lead up to the historic citadel. dinant.be

Lier we go

On the river

Criss-cross Liège on the city’s river ferry (€1 per stop). Patrolling the Meuse, it pulls in at six top sights, including La Boverie park and museum and the Museum of Walloon Life, a medieval friary that offers a fascinating picture of the region’s history. navettefluviale.be

If your resolution for 2019 was to occasionally get out of Brussels, start with a visit to Lier. This extremely pleasant little city about 20km southwest of Antwerp is chock-full of things to do and places to soak up nice views. The immense Grote Markt is lined with flowers and benches and ringed by beautiful historic buildings, such as the town hall and its Unesco-protected 14th-century bell tower. Visitors can – and must – enter the majestic building to get to the tourist information centre. The nearby Felix Timmermansplein, with its courtyard steps down to the Nete river, is also picturesque. Don’t miss the city’s beguinage; its Zimmer Museum, dedicated to clockmaker and astronomer Louis Zimmer and boasting a fabulously funky clock tower; and the city park, where a latticework bridge crosses a duck-heavy stream. And that’s only the half of it. visitlier.be

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Summer is a riot of colour and fragrance at Meise Botanic garden.

The exquisite Flower Theatre takes centre stage with its hundreds of varieties vying for attention, while the elegant Balat greenhouses show off 1,500 herbaceous plants. Worth a visit at any time of year. plantentuinmeise.be

Island in the sun

On a tiny island in the middle of a lake in the city’s biggest oasis, Chalet Robinson has opened a new terrace for the sunny season that’s much more casual than its restaurant. A small ferry will take you across the water, and there are rowing boats for rent as well. chaletrobinson.be

Agenda

Give us a clue

Grab your smartest family members to tackle the Secret of the Manneken Pis, a treasure hunt around central Brussels. Keep your eyes peeled and your wits about you as you scour historic buildings and statues for clues.

Suitable for kids 10+, challenging enough to keep everyone guessing. escapeprod.com

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10-18 August Les Fêtes du 15 Août Liege’s annual folk festival features markets, concerts, processions and countless activities for the whole family ÄÄvisitezliege.be

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Designed in the style of Versailles, 17th-century Beloeil is renowned for its treasure-adorned interior and 25-acre landscaped gardens with extensive lakes. The Hainaut showstopper hosts events including the spectacular Féeries de Beloeil sound and light show on 17 August. chateaudebeloeil.be

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Garden party

Get into the groove with a free concert on Sundays at Le Point B’arts in the pretty village of Fratin in Luxembourg province. When the weather is fine, the party moves outdoors. This is a popular mingling spot for over-30s; there’s deliberately no wi-fi to encourage conversation! tinyurl.com/Le-Point-B-arts

14-18 August Brussels Summer Festival The capital’s big open-air music fest, with more than 60 local and international acts across three locations ÄÄbsf.be 14-18 August Flowertime International florists have been given carte blanche to decorate the historical rooms of Brussels’ town hall from top to bottom ÄÄflowertime.be 15-18 August Jazz Middelheim Antwerp’s open-air jazz festival celebrates 50 years with Stuff., Charles Lloyd, Enrico Rava and more ÄÄjazzmiddelheim.be 16-25 August Histoires de Clochers Dramatic, one-off historical soundand-light show with video mapping of the Notre-Dame cathedral in Tournai ÄÄvisittournai.be 17 & 18 August Chassepierre Legendary annual street-theatre festival that takes over an entire charming village, deep in the Gaume region of Wallonia ÄÄchassepierre.be

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Paddle the Meuse

There’s little chance of capsizing when you rent a stand-up paddle at floating bar La Capitainerie in Namur, unless a passing cruise boat tips you off in its wake. The pontoon on the Jambes side of the river also hires out small boats and entertains with cocktails, concerts and other activities. lacapitainerie.be

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Walk, picnic or just admire the vistas of La Hulpe castle park and gardens, with its ponds and stately buildings. The Solvay domain also contains the Folon Foundation, home to 300 works by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon, and the adjacent Taverne de l’Homme Bleu serves refreshments. chateaudelahulpe.be

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Up on the roof

The fifth largest church in the world, Koekelberg’s Art Deco basilica is a remarkable feat of engineering that dominates the Brussels horizon. Visitors to its two museums can take a lift to the roof to enjoy spectacular views across the city. basilicakoekelberg.be

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Do look down

One of the greatest skyline views in Belgium can be had at the Radisson Blu in Hasselt. Sip cocktails in the Sky Lounge amid 360° views from the 19th floor. Anyone can enter if you know where to go: take the elevator to the 18th floor then find the stairs that lead upward. radissonblu.com/en/hotel-hasselt

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Beach life

Bucket and spade at the ready, head to the centre of Louvainla-Neuve for a spot of rest and relaxation in the unlikely setting of this otherwise concrete jungle-like university city (4 July-4 August). louvainlaplage.be

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Abbey now?

The romantic ruins of the 12th-century Villers Abbey are home to activities and events all summer long. From the medicinal plant garden to festivals, theatre and concerts, the Walloon Brabant heritage site is a must-do experience. villers.be

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Underground mission

Calling valiant young knights!

Charles V needs your help to find the treasure beneath the Coudenberg Palace. Kids aged five to eight must don disguises as they tackle a series of puzzles and follow the treasure map that leads to the prize. coudenberg.brussels

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Get your feet out

Shed your shoes and take the barefoot path at Ferme de La Planche in the Parc Naturel des deux Ourthes. It’s the perfect activity for getting mucky and exploring nature. In addition to the 3km sensorial nature trail, visit the eco-tourism organic farm and its varied livestock, including alpacas, Aberdeen-angus cows, horses and donkeys. Walks with donkeys and ponies can be reserved in advance, while children’s playgrounds, a cafeteria and BBQ and picnic area promise a full programme of outdoor activity. The park lies in the beautiful Ourthe valley, in the north-east corner of Luxembourg province. sentierpiedsnus.be

Swirl & sip

Even people who live in Belgium are largely unaware that the country has a booming wine business. There are more than 130 vineyards, and many offer tours and tastings. Check out Kasteel Vilain XIII in Maasmechelen, or D’Hellekapelle in Heuvelland, where you can also spend the night. wijnbouwkasteelvilainxllll.be, dhellekapelle.be

Agenda 23-25 August Les Solidarités Summer music festival with more: film, debates and family activities at Namur’s citadel ÄÄlafetedessolidarites.be 26-30 August Boterhammen in het Park Free lunchtime concerts featuring local bands at Brussels Park, hosted by concert venue AB ÄÄabconcerts.be 26-30 August Feeërieën Free evening pavilion concerts surrounded by food, drink and fairy lights, courtesy of Brussels concert venue AB ÄÄabconcerts.be 30 August-1 September Belgian Grand Prix Annual Formula 1 race at SpaFrancorchamps, a great favourite of drivers and fans ÄÄbelgium-grand-prix.com 5-8 September Eat! Brussels Drink! Bordeaux Annual food festival that brings together dozens of local restaurants and bars, plus wine tastings and workshops ÄÄvisit.brussels.be

Travel guide and agenda brought to you by Lisa Bradshaw, Sarah Crew, Paul McNally, Sarah Schug and Sally Tipper

For even more cultural and community inspiration, visit thebulletin.be SUMMER 2019 I 19