Issuu

INCLUDING

VOL XLIV NO 11 | F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0

READERS RESTAURANT POLL WINNERS

TOP

Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

THE CITY MAGAZINE

C EO O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S | 2 0 2 0

El M

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ITâ€™S A BLUE PARTY The wine room at Bleu is the best place in Downtown Memphis to host private events for groups of 40 or less: business meetings for breakfast, lunch & dinner, bridal luncheons, rehearsal dinners, and Tiger & Grizzly pre & post game events. Contact Lorraine Chatman at 901-334-5924 for more information. 221 S 3rd St., Memphis, TN 38103 | downtownbleu.com | 901.334.5950 for reservations | bleu@downtownbleu.com

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V O L X L I V N O 11 | FE BRUARY 2 0 2 0

Features

19 Top 10 New Restaurants and the 2020 Readers Restaurant Poll

From the freshest places to those well-seasoned: Presenting the results of our 35th annual Readers Restaurant Poll.

ROAD TRIP

The New Hot Springs The Arkansas resort town celebrates its past and looks to a green future. ~ by chris m c coy

43 901 H E A LT H

Matters of the Heart

On the Cover Top 10 New Restaurants, El Mero Taco

PHOTOGRAPH BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

Up Front

10 IN THE BEGINNING 12, 83 WE SAW YOU 14 OUT AND ABOUT

Special Sections 31

86 96

SCENE DINING

Cardiovascular problems should always be taken seriously, and doctors are placing more emphasis on prevention. ~ by michael finger

LOCAL TREASURES

Home Court Advantage When Arveal Turner wanted to introduce tennis to Memphis kids, he built his own court. ~ by maya smith ASK VANCE

Royal Lichtenstein Circus Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. ~ by vance lauderdale CITY DINING

The city’s most extensive dining listings. LAST STAND

Giving Back for Beginners One Memphian’s thoughts on acts of everyday charity.

~ by jesse davis

59 2020 CEO of the Year Honorees 68 FINANCE AND INVESTMENT In Pursuit of Solvency

Who among the presidential candidates is talking about our fiscal fortunes? ~ by david s. waddell

70 The Banking of Tomorrow 78

It’s about tracking tech, savvy mergers, and keeping up with customer demands. ~ by andy meek THE OFFICE

Willie Gregory: Nike/Greater Memphis Chamber

When it comes to boosting Memphis’ economy, Willie Gregory is ready to play ball. ~ by samuel x. cicci SMART BUSINESS

Chasing Talent Nurture the workforce we have and focus policy on people, not real estate. ~ by tom jones

CEO PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $18 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2020. Telephone: 901-521-9000. For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

FEBRUARY 2020 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • 7

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Memphis

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2019

FACE

THE C IT Y MAGAZ INE

ORIENTAL RUGS

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

CEO AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF anna traverse fogle EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITORS shara clark, jon w. sparks ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci ARTS & LIFESTYLE EDITOR anne cunningham o’neill FOOD EDITOR pamela denney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS jesse davis, michael donahue,

vance lauderdale, maya smith

Our business is our family name.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS john a. jennings, chris mccoy,

anna turman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT julia baker CALENDAR EDITOR julie ray EDITORIAL INTERN matthew j. harris

EDITOR jon w. sparks

STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

repairs reweaving handwash/cleaning appraisals sales color run restoration pet and other stain removals padding moth damage odor removal storage and much more 3554 Park Ave., Memphis, TN • 901.327.5033 • taghavirugs.com • Like us on Facebook

ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS tom jones, andy meek,

david waddell

CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe PRODUCTION OPERATIONS DIRECTOR margie neal SENIOR ART DIRECTOR carrie beasley ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS rachel li, bryan rollins PHOTOGRAPHERS justin fox burks, laura jean

hocking, larry kuzniewski, maya smith

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES kelli dewitt, chip googe,

michelle musolf, tabitha wadkins, jacob woloshin SALES/MARKETING INTERN kaylee buscher

published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tennessee 901-521-9000 p • 901-521-0129 f subscriptions: 901-521-9000

CONTROLLER ashley haeger CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER jeffrey a. goldberg DIGITAL SERVICES DIRECTOR kristin pawlowski CIRCULATION & ACCOUNTING MANAGER lynn sparagowski MARKETING & CIRCULATION COORDINATOR kalena mckinney SPECIAL EVENTS DIRECTOR molly willmott EVENTS COORDINATOR tabitha wadkins

4 &7

PUBLISHER EMERITUS kenneth neill

february 2020

member: City and Regional Magazine Association member: Circulation Verification Council 8 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • FEBRUARY 2020

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IN THE BEGINNING | by anna traverse fogle

The Business Side Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2019

FACE OF

REPRODUCTIVE

MEDICINE

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“A CAREER BUILT UPON TRUST”

f I were to attach a keyword to the still newish year, it would be clarity. This magazine and the company that surrounds it evolved, both within and without, over the course of 2019. We have entered our new era, and this new year, with a greater sense of the why behind what we do. We’re here to share with you the stories of what makes Memphis its unmistakable self – to spark curiosity about and affection for the city that energizes us every day. And we aim to do that in a way that speaks to all of our readers, new and long-time alike.

In this month’s issue, you’ll find our 35th stand-alone distribution, we had relatively annual Readers Restaurant Poll results, in- infrequent opportunities to remind people, cluding the year’s Top 10 New Restaurants, organically, who we were. as voted by you. Want proof that your voices But here’s the thing: Jon W. Sparks and were heard? Because the new Tamboli’s Pasta Samuel X. Cicci, Inside Memphis Business editor and Pizza opened late in the year, past our and associate editor, respectively, are responcut-off date, it wasn’t on the official ballot for sible for producing some of the best local best new restaurant. So many of you wrote in business content around. Their work is excelTamboli’s anyway that we decided to break lent, and we believe, both relevant and valuour own rules, listen to y’all, and list it. able to a broad sector of the community. We You’ll also find a portion of this magazine want to make sure that as many Memphians – pages 59 to 82 – dedicated to business con- as might be interested in that content – and tent. Traditionally, Memphis has published that’s a lot of you – have easy access to it. So primarily arts, culture, and lifestyle stories, we decided: Why fight a natural evolution? If with meaningful detours into heavier topics. Inside Memphis Business existed in many readers’ We have left local business stories to our sister minds as a component piece of this magazine publication, Inside Memphis Business. – Memphis – why force a distinction? Memphis, That’s changing in 2020 as Inside Memphis the magazine, can contain multitudes just like Business moves inside Memphis magazine. Rath- Memphis, the city, assuredly does. er than as a separate supplement, we will, Five times per year, then, you’ll find busigoing forward, publish IMB within the pages ness sections within these pages. This month, of Memphis magazine. read about IMB’s CEO of the Year Award Contemporary Media, Inc., published the winners. In April, we’ll present the annual first issue of MBQ – Memphis Business Quarterly Power Players listings. May will bring our in September 2006. Several years later, we meeting and special events guide. July, the anincreased the frequency of MBQ from quar- nual Innovation Awards. November will bring terly to bimonthly. Six times per year, this the philanthropy issue, including the Giving business publication – which, no longer a Guide. We’ll also include business-related quarterly, was renamed Inside Memphis Business feature stories and columns in these sections – arrived poly-wrapped with Memphis maga- and in other issues, too, as space permits. zine to subscribers of Memphis. Piggybacking I believe this evolution will make our busiwith Memphis has been, though not its only ness content more accessible and more dydistribution mechanism, certainly its primary namic, as we gain greater flexibility in when one. If you subscribe to the one, you receive and how we can position these stories. I also the other, too – but if you buy Memphis on a believe the addition will add heft to Memphis newsstand, for instance, you likely have not magazine as we undertake to explore the whys read our business coverage. behind the business and economic forces that And if the above paragraph left you a drive our city. touch confused, I understand. When IMB Over the course of the year, we’ll no doubt was still called MBQ, people tended to mix uncover more possibilities, and probably a it up with the Memphis Business Journal. Once few obstacles too. (See above, re: clarity. This we became IMB, well, plenty of people still evolution makes sense, but growing pains do called us MBQ – or invented new identities come with the territory.) I hope you’ll keep altogether, like “Inside Business Journal” or reading all of it, and that you’ll let us know “Memphis Magazine Business” and on and on. what you think. You are why we keep making I don’t blame them! The title changed mid- this magazine. course, and the acronym echoes a few others – Anna Traverse Fogle around town. Not to mention that without CEO and Editor-in-Chief

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WE SAW YOU

Playhouse on the Square 50th Anniversary Gala m i ngl e wo od h a l l | nov e m b e r 16 , 2 019

with michael donahue

layhouse on the Square celebrated its 50th anniversary with a gala. The event, which drew 430 people, included actors and actresses and others connected with the theater as well as members of other arts organizations. Recording artist Brennan Villines performed. The gala was part of a weekend of events for Circuit Playhouse Inc., which includes Playhouse on the Square, Circuit Playhouse, and NewWorks@ TheatreWorks at the Square. Events included Playhouse on the Square Alumni Night, a “BBQ & Bus Tour,” and “Playhouse on the Square Presents Peter Pan Family Day.” “The 50th Anniversary Weekend was a huge success,” says Playhouse on the Square managing director Whitney Jo. “With alumni coming in town from all over the country, patrons and subscribers partying all night, and folks from every decade of our history sharing stories, it was a weekend that no one will ever forget.”

1 Whitney Jo, Christine and Carroll Todd, Michael Detroit 2 Madeline Jones and Jayland Potts 3 Congressman Steve Cohen and Laurie Stark 4 Debbie Litch and Dabney Coors 5 Breyannah Tillman and Kelsey Woods 6 Morgan Corlew, Tessa Verner, Erin Stanley, Eli Grant, Brent Strauss, Tyler Smith, Lindsay Schmelling 7 Michael Jackson 8 Jerry Chipman 9 Christopher Blank 10 Brennan Villines

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Royal Studios Holiday Party r oya l s t u dio s | de c e m b e r 2 0 , 2 019

with michael donahue

his is the first time,” says Grammy Award-winning Lawrence “Boo” Mitchell, who owns Royal Studios. The event, which drew about 50 people, originally was going to be smaller, Mitchell says. “It really started out as a party just for family,” he says, “and then it just kind of snowballed. We were like, ‘We should invite some of the musicians.’ So, it started as close friends and family.” The party was a success. “I had a ball. A lot of people showed up. Hi Rhythm, Matt Ross-Spang, and some of our younger generation like Andrew Saino. It was pretty cool.” At least one guest — Pat Kerr Tigrett — brought a gift. “She gave me an Uncle Sam Christmas ornament,” Mitchell says. Yvonne Mitchell did most of the food, which included her coconut cupcakes made from scratch. As for music, Mitchell says, “No live music this time, but next year we’ll probably have some people. We planned this party seven days prior.” The guest list will be longer at Royal’s next holiday party, Mitchell says. “It’ll be bigger because we forgot to invite so many people at the last minute.”

1 Jenny Davis and Matt Ross-Spang 2 Daniel Weickenand, Diane Jalfon, Jon Hornyak 3 Lorrain Mitchell, Yvonne Mitchell 4 Brad McCullough, Andrew Saino 5 Pat Kerr Tigrett and Al Kapone 6 Carl Hodges, Willie Mae Hodges, Rev. Charles Hodges, James Stewart (in the back) 7 Steve and Joann Self Selvidge, Lawrence “Boo” Mitchell 8 Barbara Ann Billingsly 9 Kris Kourdouvelis and Sharon Gray 10 Khan Moore, Lil Wyte, Nicole Ann Di Fillippo 11 Lonnie Hammer 12 Aubrey Howard 13 Tanya Mitchell, LaQuitha Williams

10 11

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OU T A ND A BOU T

| FEBRUARY 2020 |

compiled by julie ray

2.16

Comedy Laugh Fest

Enjoy comedic entertainment featuring Cedric the Entertainer, D.L. Hughley, Earthquake, Deon Cole, and Nephew Tommy. Landers Center, 4560 Venture landerscenter.com

2.20

Inside Memphis Business CEO of the Year Awards Breakfast 2020

Dirty Dozen Brass Band

2.9

Dirty Dozen Brass Band hese living legends are credited with revolutionizing and revitalizing New Orleans jazz with a musical gumbo of jazz, funk, riffing, and bebop. Buckman Performing Arts Center, 60 Perkins Extended, buckmanartscenter.com

Honoring Dr. James Downing of St. Jude, George Hernandez of Campbell Clinic, William J. “Will” Chase, Jr. of Triumph Bank, and Briggette Green of TopCat Masonry Contractors, with remarks by Jack Soden of Elvis Presley Enterprises. Memphis Botanic Garden, 750 Cherry insidememphisbusiness.com

2.21

Wine for Wishes

The 10th Annual Wine for Wishes features great wines, fabulous food, live music, and a silent auction beneﬁting Make-AWish Mid-South. Cadre Building, 149 Monroe midsouth.wish.org

2.1-16

2.5-9

2.11

An expensive toy rabbit made of china named Edward takes a miraculous journey of multiple owners from all walks of life. He learns what it is to love, to lose that love, and to love again. Tennessee Shakespeare Company, 7950 Trinity, tnshakespeare.org

Welcome to the opening night of The Murder at Haversham Manor where things are quickly going from bad to utterly disastrous. With an unconscious leading lady, a corpse that can’t play dead, and actors who trip over everything—including their lines. The Orpheum, 203 S. Main orpheum-memphis.com

Led by Mike Love and Bruce Johnston, who, along with Tim Bonhomme, John Cowsill, Keith Hubacher, Christian Love, Brian Eichenberger, Randy Leago, and Scott Totten, continue the legacy of the iconic American band. The Orpheum, 203 S. Main orpheum-memphis.com

2.26-3.8

Puccini Double Bill: Suor Angelica & Gianni Schicchi

68th Annual Farm & Gin Show

The Miraculous Journey Of Edward Tulane

2.4

Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood LIVE!

Characters from the beloved PBS television series are hopping aboard Trolley to your town to take audiences on an interactive musical adventure in this live theatrical production ﬁlled with music, dancing, and laughter. Cannon Center for the Performing Arts, 255 N. Main thecannoncenter.com

The Play that Goes Wrong PHOTO BY JEREMY DANIEL

The Play That Goes Wrong

2.9

Celine Dion: Courage World Tour

Enjoy new songs from the multiple award-winning artist who ended her iconic Las Vegas residency only to surprise fans with her Courage World Tour. FedExForum, 191 Beale fedexforum.com

Opera Memphis

PHOTO COURTESY OPERA MEMPHIS

Beach Boys

Disney’s Aladdin

A thrilling new production ﬁlled with unforgettable beauty, magic, and comedy where one lamp and three wishes make the possibilities inﬁnite. The Orpheum, 203 S. Main orpheum-memphis.com

2.14-15

2.28-29

Join Opera Memphis for a Puccini Double Bill featuring the story of young Sister Angelica followed by Puccini’s only comedy, an extremely Italian dish made of equal parts love and deceit. Germantown Performing Arts Center, 1801 Exeter operamememphis.org

The 68th show highlights how local seed company products performed in 2019. Featuring local seedsmen and discussions on how important changes in the market will affect the 2020 growing season. Memphis Convention Center, 255 N. Main farmandginshow.com

IMB’s CEO of the Year Awards PHOTO BY DON PERRY

Aladdin

PHOTO BY DEEN VAN MEER

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ON RTEN

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OU T A ND A BOU T

| FEBRUary 202

OU T A ND A BOU T continued from page 14

Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Weekend

2.28-29

Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Weekend at Graceland

Past winners of Elvis Presley Enterprises’ annual Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Contest perform live on stage at Graceland in two exciting concert experiences at the Graceland Soundstage. Graceland, 3717 Elvis Presley graceland.com

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Memphis Parent Camp Expo 2020

2.29

Memphis Parent Camp Expo 2020

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From traditional outdoor summer camps to specialized day and overnight camps, there will be plenty of local and area camps on hand to choose from for kids ages preschool to 18. Memphis Pink Palace Museum, 3050 Central memphisparent.com

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SERVING MEMPHIS SINCE 1984 Four convenient

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1/16/20 10:48 AM

From the freshest places to those wellseasoned: Presenting our 35th annual Readers Restaurant Poll.

he role restaurants play in our everyday lives, and the passionate way many people feel about them, is often most clearly defined when a favorite restaurant closes. When Chef Jimmy Gentry unexpectedly closed P.O. Press Public House & Provisions in September 2019, customer laments poured in for the Collierville restaurant praised for its innovative seasonal cooking. Likewise, disbelief turned to sorrow when an early-morning fire last month shuttered Hog & Hominy, the second restaurant on Brookhaven Circle from chefs Andy T i c e r a n d M i ch a e l Hudman. The restaurant, lauded by New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells soon after it opened in 2011, set a new standard in Memphis for neighborhood eateries and cemented the city’s love for wood-fired pizza grounded in Southern roots. Fortunately, Gentry is now overseeing the kitchen at Interim in East Memphis while he plans another restaurant venture. And Ticer and Hudman, voted best chefs in Memphis this year in a first-place tie with Kelly English, promise a bigger and better rebuild of Hog & Hominy. In the meantime, diners can explore a delicious local food scene led by the city’s top 10 new restaurants selected by Memphis magazine readers in our annual poll. The new restaurants are diverse in atmosphere, menu, and price. Downtown, there’s soul fusion fare on South Main Street and updated diner food in a charming hotel space. In Midtown, handmade pasta, quinoa bowls, and crab legs dipped in spicy butter join dozens of established restaurants. And in an inexorable expansion to the east, new restaurant choices include contemporary Cajun, traditional Italian, expertly seared steaks, seafood with sunset views, and tacos from food-truckers with a new permanent home in Cordova. — Pamela Denney

e dite d by pa m e l a d e n n e y / p h oto g rap hs b y j u s t i n f o x b u r k s F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 19

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Moondance Grill

Prime filets, pan-seared sand dabs, and a marvelous night

o be frank, the signature cocktail at Moondance Grill — an old fashioned infused with cherry wood smoke — sounds a little hokey. But in the spirit of my New Year’s resolution to have more fun, I order the cocktail anyway. A few minutes later, our server Abby sets a glass smoke box on our table. It reminds me of a mantle clock but inside, instead of clockworks, there’s a cocktail glass garnished with an orange twist. “Are you ready?” Abby asks, and when I nod yes, she unlatches the box. Curls of fragrant smoke envelop the cocktail and me, and when I take a taste, hints of wood smoke mingle with the Blue Note Bourbon, a small-batch spirit made in Memphis. The cocktail is an unexpected success, says general manager Matt Williams in late December. “One week, we sold 256 of them,” he says. “We’ve already gone through a barrel of bourbon.” While the drink’s popularity may be a surprise, the restaurant’s win as the best new restaurant of the year certainly is not. Moondance is the 12th restaurant for Tommy and Liz Peters, who also own Itta Bena, B.B. King’s, and Lafayette’s in Overton Square. At Moondance, located next door to the GPAC amphitheater, the restaurateurs’ expertise translates into an inviting piano bar, a dining room with warm finishes and tall-back booths, and an unflinching focus on customer service. Likewise, the menu designed by executive chef Oscar Pena is approachable and built around American classics like lamb lollipops, prime steaks finished with butter and sea salt, and an exceptionally delicious ground chuck burger. (Secret ingredient: a paste made with milk, brioche bread, and a little bacon grease mixed into the meat.) The menu also holds surprises, which we discover on our dinner date. There are starters (ahi tuna stack topped with avocado foam); hand-helds (a pair of lobster rolls on griddled split-top buns); and desserts (a double-fudge chocolate chip brownie so warm and sweet it makes me flush a little). For entrees, my husband orders a 10-ounce filet. “As good a sear as you can get,” he says with satisfaction. For me, sand dabs, a house specialty fashioned after the dish from San Francisco’s Tadich Grill. When the sand dabs are served, they come with a dish of melted butter, which the pan-seared fish doesn’t need. We use the butter anyway to quickly dunk grilled asparagus, forkfuls of squash medley, and fat steak fries. A little extra, perhaps? Absolutely. — Pamela Denney

1730 S. GERMANTOWN ROAD, SUITE 117 (901-755-1471). OPEN 11 A.M. – 10 P.M. MONDAY THROUGH THURSDAY, 11 A.M. – 11 P.M. FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, AND 11 A.M. – 9 P.M. SUNDAY.

Presenting the winners of our annual magazine Readers Restaurant Poll

emphis is your kind of place if you like to eat, and especially if you enjoy variety on your plate. And if you like to talk about what you like to eat, Memphis might be even more your kind of place. In recent years, this city – never a dull dining town – has gotten fresher, spicier, more creative, more welcoming. We play with our food more these days, and that’s worth celebrating. And we enjoy more options than ever when it comes to where to go and what to order.

Reinvented American classics shape the core of the menu at Moondance Grill, a 6,300-square-foot restaurant in Germantown featuring a piano bar, enclosed patio, and open kitchen in the dining room. Customer favorites from chef Joel Lemay (above) include oysters on the half shell, U.S. prime steaks, plump lobster rolls, and double-fudge chocolate chip brownies for dessert.

That’s where the Memphis magazine annual Readers Restaurant Poll comes in. For the 35th year running, we have compiled an extensive list of the best places to eat and drink in the Bluff City. To ensure the results pass muster, we installed online voting safeguards to prevent more than one entry per person, making these results the deﬁnitive resource for Memphis restaurant-goers. In the pages that follow, you’ll ﬁnd the top three restaurants in each category,

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1/22/20 3:45 PM

Ronnie Grisanti’s

Pasta, chocolate cheesecake, and diver scallops encrusted in porcini powder

’m proud to say I’ve eaten at just about every location of Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant. I frequented Grisanti’s ﬁrst restaurant, which was next to Sun Studios. I ate mezzo-mezzo (spaghetti and ravioli) with pickled beets and Italian spinach just about every day for lunch after the restaurant moved to Beale Street. I remember his place on Poplar Avenue near the viaduct, which was legendary. The food, atmosphere, employees, photos of Grisanti with his customers on the walls, and Grisanti himself at the door welcoming customers are among my favorite dining out memories. I also ate many meals at his last restaurant inside Collierville’s Shefﬁeld Antiques Mall. I met Grisanti’s son, Judd Grisanti, when he was a server at the Beale Street location. He went on to cook in the kitchen on Poplar and later joined the list of Grisanti family members who opened their own restaurants in Memphis. Judd now owns Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant in the Regalia Shopping Center. Ronnie’s name is on the sign, but the restaurant is not just a homage to his father, Judd says. “It’s not about Ronnie,” Judd told me right before he opened his new place. “It’s not about Elfo. It’s not about Big John. It’s about all of them. It’s about the heritage, the legacy of the Grisantis. That’s what this restaurant is about.” All the famous Grisanti Italian dishes are on the menu, but there’s so much more. Judd’s menu is a mix of the traditional dishes with what he calls antico nuevo. “Old World meets the New World,” he explains. Grisanti also makes his own specialty pastas, which he currently sells at the restaurant along with his sauces and dressings. I ask Judd to select some of his favorite dishes. Among the dishes are la sfoglia rigatoni (“40 egg pasta”) with Grisanti’s meat sauce and fresh diver scallops encrusted in porcini powder with black garlic Parmesan cheese risotto. Dessert includes chocolate cheesecake made from a recipe from Judd’s mother, the late Kay Grisanti. Everything is delicious. The restaurant’s elegant decor is in shades of burgundy wine and gold. A massive mural by Bill Turri depicts the Grisanti home town of Lucca, Italy. Italian songs — and songs associated with Italy (I heard the theme from The Godfather) — are played during dinner. But just to show how accommodating the restaurant can be, the Italian music is changed to songs by Tammy Wynette and other country artists because Covington Mayor Justin Hanson, who is dining at the restaurant the night I am there, likes country music. I think that is pretty nice. — Michael Donahue

At Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant, Chef Judd Grisanti (right) serves Grisanti family favorites, such as meatballs in pomodoro sauce and asparagus bisque with butter-poached lobster — zuppa di Isabella — along with more contemporary dishes like creamy burrata with arugula, heirloom tomatoes, and roasted red peppers.

6150 POPLAR AVENUE, SUITE 122 (901-850-0190). OPEN 11 A.M. – 10 P.M. MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.

with the ﬁrst-place option listed in bold type. Ties are indicated where they occurred. Long-time readers of Memphis magazine will notice a new designation this year for what we’re calling, a little cheesily (but this is a food poll, so: pass the cheese), Super Stars. These Super Stars are ﬁrst-place winners who received a third or more of the total votes in their categories. When

Memphians like a place, we really, really like it. Ever read a social-media comment thread about sandwiches in this city? We take this stuff seriously. If you’re a Memphian or a frequent visitor, you’ll spot plenty of familiar haunts on this list, from the whitetablecloth establishment where you book a reservation on your anniversary to the checkered-tablecloth joint you sink into with the family on tired Friday evenings.

But be sure to scan the list for your next favorite discovery, too: Chances are, your fellow eaters will point you in the direction of delicious. Our hearty congratulations to all the restaurants, cafes, diners, bars, breweries, and food trucks on this list. And our heartfelt thanks to you, our readers, for sharing your good taste.

Best Restaurant

Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar Folk’s Folly Bounty on Broad

First-place winners who received at least a third of the total votes in their category.

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1/17/20 2:04 PM

El Mero Taco

Mimosas, brisket quesadilla, and tacos served 11 ways

n my way to see a movie at the Malco Cordova Cinema, my boyfriend and I decide to meet at El Mero Taco for pre-movie dinner and drinks. As I pull up to the restaurant tucked away in a plaza off Macon Road, across the street from the theater, I am impressed by its curb appeal. Painted white brick, arched windows, and a patio with a combination of sleek and colorful furniture are nothing short of inviting. Inside the restaurant, I am greeted by the aroma of taco meats and a menu containing a marriage of Mexican and Southern-style cuisine, separated into tacos and “not tacos” sections and inspired by the creations of owners Clarissa and Jacob Dries. To start, I order off the “not taco,” or sides and appetizers, menu. I go with the chilaquiles verdes, El Mero’s own spin on nachos: tortilla chips topped with Monterey Jack cheese, salsa verde, Mexican crema, and fried egg — plus an addition of chorizo sausage. To drink, I order an El Mero mimosa made with orange sorbet and prosecco. Both are delicious. When Christopher arrives, we consult Clarissa and Jacob, who met at culinary school in Austin, Texas, for suggestions on entrees. They suggest we try brisket quesadilla with fresh chimichurri sauce and melted Monterey Jack cheese. “Coming from Austin, we know a little bit about brisket,” Jacob says. “We smoke it for up to 12 hours.” The brisket, tender and warm and the star of the show, does not disappoint. “The chimichurri adds a complementary spice to it, but not overpowering,” Christopher says. “The cheese is there too, but it is more of an undertone to the dish.” I opt for another one of Jacob’s suggestions, the Southern-fried chicken taco, plus a chorizo con papas taco and a side of Mexican street corn. The fried chicken taco — the best-selling menu item at the restaurant, for good reason — features a fried chicken tender topped with queso blanco, tomato, in-house pickled jalapeños, and cilantro inside a ﬂour tortilla. My personal favorite, however, is the chorizo con papas taco. The caramelized onions, roasted poblano peppers, sweet potatoes, and Monterey jack cheese tone down the spiciness of the chorizo. And the street corn, chilled off-the-cob corn mixed with Cotija cheese, spicy mayo, red onion, and cilantro, make the perfect accompaniment. — Julia Baker

After earning an enthusiastic following with their food truck El Mero, Chefs Clarissa and Jacob Dries (above) opened a permanent location in Cordova with craft cocktails and an expanded menu. Along with tacos and quesadillas, the restaurant serves surprises like cauliﬂower ceviche and crispy nachos topped with Monterey Jack cheese.

8100 MACON STATION, SUITE 102 (901-308-1661). OPEN 11 A.M. - 9 P.M. TUESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY AND 10 A.M. - 9 P.M. SATURDAY. CLOSED MONDAY.

Best Chef

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen / Hog & Hominy / Catherine & Mary’s / Gray Canary / Bishop Kelly English Restaurant Iris / The Second Line Russell Casey Bounty on Broad Erling Jensen Erling Jensen The Restaurant

Best New Restaurant

Moondance Grill Ronnie Grisanti’s El Mero Taco Inspire Community Cafe 3rd & Court Diner Saltwater Crab Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza Mahogany Memphis Sage Restaurant Zopita’s on the Square

Best Chain Restaurant

Houston’s Seasons 52 Capital Grille Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Best Date Night

Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar Restaurant Iris Southern Social

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1/17/20 2:04 PM

Inspire Community Café Rice bowls, strawberry fields, and breakfast all day

he atmosphere at Inspire Community Café is, in a word, welcoming. In fact, the word “welcome” is written in different languages across the top of the massive chalkboard inside, including “bienvenidos,” which I recognize from my high school Spanish classes. True to the chalk inscription, the little restaurant in the Binghampton neighborhood bustles with customers during my visit for lunch. The cashier — who turns out to be owner/co-founder Kristin Fox-Trautman — greets me warmly and remembers my name later when she rearranges some tables next to me to accommodate a group of women out celebrating with a healthy lunch. Colorful bags stuffed with gifts and crepe paper decorate their table and add to the café’s festive air. Bob Marley sings softly over the speakers as I order the apple cinnamon pecan double stack with a side of applewood bacon. My date gets the slow-cooked barbecue chicken rice bowl. Bowls at Inspire can be made with rice or quinoa, and, though I can’t speak for the quinoa, the white rice is sticky and delicious and topped with barbecue chicken under a garnish of chopped red onion and cheddar cheese. The double stack of pancakes, dressed with cinnamon-sprinkled pecans and cooked apples, tastes like apple pie, albeit with its sweetness cut for breakfast. It is the perfect treat for a crisp, bright winter afternoon. It’s no easy feat to decide what to order from that colorful menu; so many delicious dishes clamor for attention. I could spend an afternoon on the coffee and tea options, but after two cups of coffee at the ofﬁce, I demure. I’m tempted by the breakfast quesadilla, with its eggs, fourcheese blend, veggies, and optional pineapple salsa, and the chicken and spinach Strawberry Fields salad calls to The Beatles maniac in me. I’m pleased with my pecan-topped pancakes, though, and I know I’m just perusing the menu to build anticipation for my next visit. Since it closes at 6 p.m. weeknights, Inspire would not be available for a fancy dinner date, but the healthy options and low price points make for a delightfully ﬁlling and energizing breakfast or lunch — and one that doesn’t sit too heavy on the stomach, inviting afternoon lethargy. I feel refreshed, both by the food and the atmosphere, and I have a hunch Inspire would make a perfect lunch option for an active Saturday. In fact, one of Inspire’s smoothies might be the ideal reward for a hike along the Greenline. Food for thought. — Jesse Davis

Chef Terrance Whitley (above) steers a healthy and affordable menu that features rice and quinoa bowls, such as the black bean or slow-cooked barbecue chicken, an extensive selection of smoothies and coffee drinks, breakfast items like quesadillas and avocado toast that easily work for lunch, and family meals-to-go until 6 p.m.

Best Kid Friendly

Huey’s Memphis Pizza Cafe Railgarten Diner

Best Late-Night Dining Huey’s Bardog Tavern Slider Inn

510 TILLMAN, SUITE 110 (901-509-8640). OPEN 8 A.M. – 6 P.M. MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY AND 8 A.M. – 2 P.M. SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY.

Best Outdoor Dining The Second Line Loﬂin Yard Bhan Thai Slider Inn

Best People-Watching

Peabody Lobby Bar Loﬂin Yard Lafayette’s Music Room Flying Saucer

Best Place to Impress Out-of-Towners Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous Itta Bena Folk’s Folly

Best Asian Fusion

Mulan Lucky Cat Ramen Mosa Asian Bistro

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1/17/20 2:04 PM

3rd & Court Diner

Adult shakes, chicken hash bowl, and fried green tomatoes with house-made ranch

f there’s one thing that the Roger Sapp, Craig Blondis, and Ryan Trimm triumvirate do well, it’s food. After concocting the smash hit that is Sunrise Memphis, the trio return in force with the time machine that is 3rd & Court Diner, situated on the ground floor of Downtown Memphis’ new Hotel Indigo. The upscale, 1950s-style diner welcomes Memphians and out-of-town visitors alike with wide views of surrounding Downtown and a steady soundtrack of old-time blues and soul tunes. With that in mind, the menu is designed to offer recognizable, accessible, and, crucially, affordable comfort food. The all-day breakfast menu dishes out staples like biscuits & gravy or French toast, while heartier options like the chicken hash bowl can be filling. The breakfast sandwich, served with a fried egg and choice of breakfast meat, is elevated when placed atop a local Dave’s “everything” bagel. For a caffeine kick, 3rd & Court’s coffee bar has enough options to satisfy anyone from Folgers absolutists to Italian espresso enthusiasts, with myriad varieties and modifications like lavender, honey, vanilla, soy milk, or oat milk. But it’s not just breakfast on the menu. The daily blue plate specials run from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday and feature plenty of diversity with selections including smothered pork, fried shrimp, fried chicken, or even speckled trout. Each meal is best opened with one of the creative appetizers. The chili cheese fries pay tribute to a Southwestern-style Frito pie, while the fried green tomatoes meld especially well with the homemade ranch dressing. The curry cauliflower bisque, meanwhile, sets up a light and spicy entry for one of 3rd & Court’s many sandwiches. The diner burger slaps two juicy patties together with the usual suspects for toppings, but don’t sniff at the finely grilled poultry on the chicken Philly. The bartenders can whip up chocolate, vanilla, or strawberry milkshakes (or root beer/coke floats) for kids (or adults!) at the counter, while socialites prepping for a night out can select one of the diner’s specialty cocktails. The bright margarita upended any preconceived notion I might have had when it hit me with its powerful pineapple kick. Whatever you choose, 3rd & Court captures the essence of an old-school diner for the modern age. And if the old-timey tracks playing in the background aren’t enough, hop over to the lounge for live soul or jazz music every weekend. — Samuel X. Cicci 24 N. B.B. KING BLVD. (901-930-0793). 7 A.M. – 10 P.M. FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK.

Best Barbecue Ribs

Best Breakfast

Best Barbecue Sandwich

Best Brunch

Central BBQ Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous The Bar-B-Q Shop Central BBQ Payne’s Bar-B-Que The Bar-B-Q Shop

Brother Juniper’s Sunrise Memphis Bryant’s Breakfast Owen Brennan’s The Beauty Shop Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar

Retro kitsch décor and Chef Ryan Trimm’s elevated diner food come together in perfect harmony at 3rd & Court. Try a shake or craft cocktail alongside deviled eggs, dressed up with roasted pablano, cilantro, cojita, and radishes, a burger built with two 4-ounce patties, toppings, and American cheese, or daily blue-plate specials.

Best Burger

Huey’s Top’s Bar-B-Q Belmont Grill Alex’s Tavern

Best Cajun/Creole

The Second Line Owen Brennan’s Bayou Bar & Grill

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1/17/20 2:05 PM

Saltwater Crab

Fish favorites, seafood boils, and the catch of the day

it me down in front of a cluster of hot crab legs, and I’ll happily go to work for the meat. I don’t even need tools, except maybe for the claws — it’s a real skill. If you’d seen me at the table at Saltwater Crab in early January, intently bending and cracking the brittle legs for the ocean-sweet treasure inside, you’d know that this is something I take quite seriously. No time for talk as my spice-and-butter-covered ﬁngers work their way through each precious inch of harvestable morsels. The seafood boils — like the one I ordered and still daydream about — are a popular choice. Customizable, with a combination of blue crab, snow crab, shrimp, clams, green mussels, or lobster tail and served with corn on the cob and red potatoes, the boils arrive at the table in a steaming-hot, tied bag — a delicious gift waiting to be unwrapped. The components inside swim in melted Cajun butter, heavy on the seasonings. (Choose regular, mild, or spicy.) If a messy, slightly barbaric feast isn’t your thing, go for some raw oysters, shipped in from Canada or the coast and available at market price daily or Sunday specials for just $1 each. For a completely different kind of starter, try the fried green tomato bruschetta with heaping spoonfuls of cold lump crab, diced red tomato, and tart balsamic atop crisp, warm fried green tomato slices. There’s also a daily wild-caught “Catch of the Day” offering, in addition to the standby ﬁsh dishes. My partner ordered the blackened salmon, perfectly cooked and topped with a dollop of housemade mustard chive cream, which we’re certain had a bit of honey in it. By the time you read this, the menu will have been revamped a bit. Memphis’ own Michael Donahue spoke with Saltwater Crab owner Gary Lin about changes kicking off mid-January. Among them: Chef Jimmy Sinh, owner of the former Sushi Jimmi food truck turned restaurant, will join the team as chef/ kitchen manager. Sinh plans to bring sushi back to Saltwater Crab’s menu and tweak other items, including the steak, which he says will be a thicker cut and better-seasoned. We look forward to trying the new options. Just keep the seafood boils exactly as they are. — Shara Clark

Who needs Destin when there’s a grouper sandwich at Saltwater Crab? Chef Andy Knight (right) developed the seafood-centric menu, which includes crab legs with butter, seafood boils from an extensive assortment of shellﬁsh, and favorites like sushi, seared sea scallops, and shrimp and grits with smoked sausage and tomato gravy.

Best Chinese

Wang’s Mandarin House Formosa Chinese Restaurant Wok’n in Memphis

2059 MADISON AVE. (901-922-5202). OPEN 11 A.M. - 10 P.M. TUESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY, 10 A.M. - 11 P.M. SATURDAY, AND 10 A.M. - 9 P.M. SUNDAY. CLOSED MONDAY.

Best Coffeehouse (non-chain) Otherlands Coffee Bar Cafe Eclectic Ugly Mug Coffee Muddy’s Grind House City & State

Best Deli

Elwood’s Shack Lucchesi’s Bogie’s Delicatessen

Best Dessert Shop

Best Fried Chicken

Best Food Truck

Best Frozen Treat

Muddy’s Bake Shop Frost Bake Shop Cheesecake Corner La Baguette

Gus’s Fried Chicken Joes’ Restaurant Superlo Foods Jack Pirtle’s

Say Cheese Cousins Maine Lobster Central BBQ

Jerry’s Sno Cones La Michoacana Mempops

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1/17/20 2:12 PM

Tamboli’s Pasta and Pizza Chicken parmesan, wood-fired pizzas, and pastas made by hand

hen our friend Bobby Maupin hears our plans to visit Tamboli’s Pasta and Pizza, he is direct with his recommendations: Order cheese pizza and fried chicken Parmesan. Maupin helped owner Miles Tamboli compile the wine list at the restaurant, which opened in early November in what many old-timers still refer to as Hatley’s Garage. Younger customers are more likely to remember Fuel Café, the last restaurant to occupy the building on Madison Avenue owned by Tamboli’s father, Roy Tamboli, the well-known artist who works in a studio next door. Either way, the family’s extensive redesign of the space updates its past uses with a refreshing energy, an enlarged sunfilled dining room, and a seasonal Italian menu that is delicious and fun to eat. Let’s start with that three-cheese pizza, which we order as an appetizer for four along with beef carpaccio, a lovely dish served with mozzarella mousse, amaranth micro-greens, and a dab or two of pesto. We pass around the carpaccio plate and then focus on the pizza pie and its appealing crust that billows into bubbles from the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. By now, we are well into an eating frenzy, and when we reach for slices, each one pulls apart in beautiful stretchy strands of mozzarella, ricotta, Pecorino, and Parmesan. The pizza is, in a single word, perfect. “I tried to make a cheese pizza that a 4-yearold would like and a seasoned food writer would like,” Tamboli later explains, smiling. No wonder Tamboli looks happy. His restaurant is a runaway hit, thanks in part to loyal customers who know Tamboli’s handmade egg pasta from local farmer’s markets. In fact, Memphis magazine readers took control when Tamboli’s was not included in this year’s pull-down menu for best new restaurant. (The restaurant opened after the ballot’s official cut-off date.) Their writein votes still pushed Tamboli’s into the top-10 list, a first for any new restaurant in the poll’s history. “I want to surprise people by rejecting the idea that affordable casual food has to be a certain way,” Tamboli says. “It can be intentionally made, and it can be made with good, locally sourced ingredients.” Under the direction of Chef Shane Wiggington, Tamboli’s year-round menu of pasta (rigatoni with tomato bacon gravy!), pizzas (meat board!), and mains (meat lasagna and chicken Parmesan!) holds steady, but seasonal specials regularly change to match the availability of produce. For instance, a few days after our visit, oyster mushroom and arrabiata sauce pizza replaces duck confit pizza with coffee-honey glaze. Up next: Look for deconstructed barbecue spaghetti and mozzarella cheese sticks with marinara sauce, all house-made. — Pamela Denney

Miles Tamboli (left) discovered his love of egg pasta while visiting the Adriatic coast and started selling his own handmade pasta at the downtown farmer’s market. At his new restaurant, pasta is still the star, along with house-made specialties like sauces for pasta and pizzas and fresh cheeses like ricotta, burrata, and mozzarella.

1761 MADISON AVE. (901-410-8866). OPEN 5 – 10 P.M. TUESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY.

Best Indian

India Palace Golden India Bombay House

Best Italian

Pete & Sam’s Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Ciao Bella Italian Grill

Best Japanese

Sekisui Sekisui Paciﬁc Rim Sakura Osaka

Best Mediterranean

Casablanca Restaurant Taziki Mediterranean Cafe Petra Cafe

Best Mexican

Las Delicias Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana Molly’s La Casita

Best Pizza

Memphis Pizza Cafe Aldo’s Pizza Pies Hog & Hominy

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1/22/20 3:45 PM

Mahogany Memphis Cajun chicken eggrolls, Memphis fried chicken, and star-studded cocktails

s it soul food? Or does it perhaps hew more closely to fine dining? Chef Christopher Hudson, formerly of L’Ecole Culinaire, chooses both options at Mahogany Memphis, the chic new establishment in Chickasaw Oaks Village. The sheer breadth of quality and intriguing options for lunch and dinner makes it almost impossible to choose just one item, so naturally, we have to try several. But first, cocktails. Mahogany (named after Diana Ross’ turn in the 1975 film of the same name) is decked in cinematic flair: The menu is broken up into sections akin to a movie set: the Extras (appetizers), the Props (soup & salads), The Cast (entrees), as some examples. But nowhere else is the movie scene as influential as the cocktail menu, with an extensive list paying homage to celebrities, ranging from “Al Pacino aka Scarface” (amaretto, lime juice, coke, and bourbon) to “Cardi B aka Spicy Mommie” (jalapeño martini made up of cucumber, vodka, sweet and sour, simple syrup, and a splash of club soda). I raise my glass to one of the greatest musicians of our time with the “Prince aka Purple Rain,” a sweet aperitif of vodka, sour raspberry liqueur, blue curacao, lime cordial, and cranberry juice. For starters, there’s no beating the Cajun chicken eggrolls. One of the restaurant’s most popular appetizers, they are carefully crafted over a two-day period with the chicken eventually mixed with okra and sausage. The main courses have plenty of Cajun options as well, like baked Cajun Cornish hen, while Hudson’s take on Memphis fried chicken goes well over either waffles or greens. The lasagna roll, wrapped up in a neat Italian package with beef, tomato sauce, and a healthy portion of melted cheese, is balanced with a side salad and garlic bread. What I have my eye on from the beginning, however, are the coffee rubbed lamb chops. Cooked to tender, medium-rare perfection, the chops melt off the bone and onto the bed of grilled asparagus spears, all topped off with a spicy seasoning blend. Alongside the excellent food, the Mahogany atmosphere has something for everyone; there are tables on the cobblestones outside, a conventional dining room, or a casual lounge next to the bar. The latter area was hopping, while a private event was taking place upstairs, as well. But that’s no surprise; the restaurant has been packed since it opened last fall, so when (not if) you go, be sure to make a reservation. — Samuel X. Cicci

Elevated Southern cooking is a beautiful thing at the hand of Chef Christopher Hudson (above right). Consider the fried chicken with buttermilk wafﬂes, oxtail on stoneground grits, sweet and spicy pork belly, and a specialty cocktail — the “Thomas Edison aka Black Maria” — made with black vodka, cherry and lime juices, and edible pearl dust.

Best Plate Lunch

Soul Fish Cupboard Restaurant Patrick’s Little Tea Shop

Best Seafood (non-fast food) The Half Shell Tsunami Pearl’s Oyster House

3092 POPLAR AVE., SUITE 11 (901-623-7977). OPEN 11 A.M. – 10 P.M. FOR LUNCH AND DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH SATURDAY, AND 10 A.M. – 3 P.M. FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH. CLOSED MONDAY AND TUESDAY.

Best Shared Plates

Best Taco

Best Steak

Best Thai

Bounty on Broad Babalu Tapas & Tacos Hog & Hominy Folk’s Folly Buckley’s Restaurant Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Las Delicias Maciel’s Taco Shop Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana Bhan Thai Bangkok Alley Pho Binh

Best Vegetarian/Vegan

Raw Girls City Silo & Pantry Global Cafe Blue Nile Ethopian Kitchen

Best Vietnamese

Pho Binh Pho Saigon Lotus Vietnamese Restaurant F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 27

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1/17/20 2:05 PM

Sage Restaurant

Soul rolls, Sage burgers, and peach cobbler for dessert

early every seat is taken just 20 minutes after Sage opens its doors on the morning I stop by. Co-owner and executive chef Eli Townsend is dashing between the kitchen and the dining room, greeting guests and handing out menus in a sleek modern space on South Main Street, transformed last year from the former home of Oshi Asian Kitchen. The vibe is pleasantly sophisticated, yet relaxed, much like the restaurant’s fusion soul food, a cuisine mash-up readily apparent in Sage’s most popular dish, the Soul Roll. The aptly named appetizer includes two egg rolls stuffed with fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, and turnip greens. As if it couldn’t get any better, the roll’s cherry-colored dipping sauce is sweet and tangy, a creative spin on sweet-and-sour sauce. After just one bite, I can easily understand why this is Sage’s signature dish. My server, Desiree, wants to help me decide on a lunch entrée and confidently suggests I try a chicken salad sandwich. “It’s definitely one of my favorites,” Desiree says. “My boyfriend always orders it, too.” The sandwich — marinated grilled chicken dressed in pesto mayo, sun-dried tomatoes, and orange marmalade — sounds enticing, but I want to try another signature dish instead: the Sage burger. When the burger arrives surrounded by an ample portion of house-made sweet potato fries, I pluck a fry from its herd. The texture is crisp, not greasy at all. There’s no added sugar here, no syrup, no overbearing toss of salt. Simply put, the fries are spectacular. The Sage burger — an upgraded version of a handheld lunchtime classic — is a $12 creation of perfectly seasoned beef, mashed avocado, fried egg, and flash-fried sage drenched in thick, silky Swiss cheese. It is large and filling, but I’ve always believed in a well-rounded meal, so I order rosemary-ginger-peach cobbler for dessert. The name alone is enough to make my mouth water, and the warm dessert does not disappoint. Under a blanket of golden, crumbling crust, Georgia peaches soaked in Hennessy cognac mingle with fresh rosemary and spicy ginger. At $11 with the addition of ice cream, the cobbler seems like a steal. As I swallow my final forkful of the sweet, buttery dessert, vanilla bean ice cream dribbles a bit down my chin, and I can say with unequivocal enthusiasm: I am pleased with my first taste of Sage. — Anna Turman 94 S. MAIN ST. (901-672-7902). OPEN FOR LUNCH MONDAY AND TUESDAY; LUNCH AND DINNER WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY; DINNER AND LATE-NIGHT MENUS FRIDAY AND SATURDAY; AND BRUNCH ON SATURDAY AND SUNDAY. HOURS VARY.

Best Beer Selection

Flying Saucer Young Avenue Deli Boscos Squared

Best Craft Cocktails

Alchemy Peabody Lobby Bar Art Bar at Crosstown

Best Dive Bar

The Cove Alex’s Tavern Earnestine & Hazel’s Silky O’Sullivan’s

Best Happy Hour

Bring a big appetite to tackle the Sage burger, a perfect coming together of Angus beef, Swiss cheese, mashed avocado, and fried egg. Chef Eli Townsend (top left) takes an eclectic approach to food: egg rolls stuffed with fried chicken, as well as salads like the strawberry, spinach, and green apple. Also try their wings or a trio of sliders.

Best Local Brewery

Wiseacre Brewing Company Ghost River Brewery & Tap Room Memphis Made Brewing Co. Crosstown Brewing Company

Huey’s Alchemy Brookhaven Pub

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Zopita’s on the Square Lasagna, freshly baked French bread, and caramel cake rooted in Italy

remember when my friend, Pepe Palazola, told me his mom, Anna Palazola, was opening a restaurant in Collierville. I thought, “Hmmmm.” A new restaurant opened by someone who never owned a restaurant before seemed risky to me. Okay, I was wrong. Zopita’s on the Square, which opened early last year, is a hit. The restaurant, named after Palazola’s Italian grandmother, Anna Zopita Colantoni, features Italian and other dishes. Cindy Varner, manager of the nearby Army Surplus Collierville, says she eats at Zopita’s four times a week. “It’s good for you, and it tastes good,” she says. Everything about the restaurant, to me, is good. It’s located on the beautiful Collierville Town Square, which was rated as the number-one town square in the United States by Parade magazine. The restaurant with its exposed brick walls and steel tables with wood tops is attractive and welcoming. Zopita’s once was the location of Collierville’s City Hall, says Anna’s husband, Charlie Palazola, who helps to run the restaurant. He shows me where an opening, now ﬁlled in with newer brick, was once an entrance to the jail next door. Zopita’s also housed a bank at one time, and the original old vault is at the rear of the restaurant. And what about the food, which is the main attraction? I tried two of Anna’s signature dishes: lasagna and chicken salad. They were fresh and tasty. The Palazola/ Pavone (Anna’s maiden name) heritage ﬁgures strongly into the restaurant. The potato salad is made from a recipe from Anna’s mother, Adela Pavone. The vinaigrette for the salad is from a recipe from Charlie’s mother, Josephine Palazola. Anna bakes the restaurant’s fresh French bread when she gets to work around 7 a.m. Her eclairs and caramel cake also are exceptionally good. The cake, which tastes like a tiramisu, is her take on the “Diplomatica,” a popular Italian cake typically made with puff pastry and crème Chantilly. The caramel cake features the pastry cream, but Anna uses caramel frosting in place of the Diplomatica’s top layer of puffed pastry. I asked Anna why she wanted to open a restaurant. “Charlie retired from the produce business,” she says, referring to M. Palazola Produce Co. “It’s something for us to do in our twilight years.” — Michael Donahue

Anna Zopita turned her love of cooking into a scrumptious retirement job. She serves Italian favorites like lasagna and chicken Parmesan, along with unexpected lunch items like tenderloin pork or chicken salad sandwiches. Zopita also makes chocolate eclairs, a delicious accompaniment to the restaurant’s coffee options.

114 NORTH MAIN ST., COLLIERVILLE (901-457-7526). OPEN 11:30 A.M. - 5 P.M. MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY AND NOON - 4 P.M. SATURDAY. CLOSED SUNDAY. Correction: In the story “Caritas Cafe Builds Community with Fellowship and Food,” published in our January 2020 issue, we incorrectly identiﬁed Caritas chef de cuisine Conrad Phillips. We regret the error.

Best Place to Watch the Game Huey’s Brookhaven Pub Bayou Bar & Grill

Best Wine List

Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar Folk’s Folly Napa Cafe

Worth the Drive

City Grocery (Oxford, MS) Como Steakhouse (Como, MS) Bozo’s Hot Pit Bar-B-Q (Mason, TN)

Best Category We Left Out Best Bar Best Server Best Service

Restaurant We Miss the Most Jim’s Place East Anderton’s Justine’s

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Educating a Generation of

Culinary Artists

YEARS YEARS

SOUTHWEST TENNESSEE COMMUNITY COLLEGE

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special advertising section

Looking for the right spot for that first date? What about something new for your next anniversary? Or do you simply find yourself with a hankering for a nice, thick burger and fries? Whatever your craving may be, you’re sure to find a delectable destination on the following pages.

Babalu

Overton Square: 2115 Madison Ave; Memphis East: 6450 Poplar Ave • eatbabalu.com

BABALU® features scratch-made, Latin-inspired dishes with a touch of Southern flair. Sample and share our new tapas like Crab Croquettes and Patatas Bravas or order our signature Guacamole, prepared tableside. At BABALU®, tacos reign with over a dozen flavors that are only $2 on Taco Tuesdays. Both BABALU® locations feature unique patio dining with stools at the outside bar and plenty of shaded seating. Our community tables seat up to a dozen people comfortably as you sip on house-made seasonal Sangria or our award-winning BABA Rita®.

Bhan Thai

1324 Peabody Avenue • 901.272.1538 • bhanthairestaurant.com Owner Molly Smith along with Chef Sorrasit “Alex” Sittranont offers original Thai cuisine in an elegant, friendly environment both inside and outdoors. Our expanded patio is sure to capture your presence! Longtime favorites are pad Thai, tiger cry, crispy duck, tuna and many more. Voted Best Thai 2003-2019. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and dinner Tuesday– Friday beginning at 5 p.m. Closed Monday.

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Broadway Pizza

Celtic Crossing

Old-fashioned pizza house with a lovely comfortable atmosphere where the Old-fashioned pizza house with a lovely comfortable atmosphere where the staff has you feeling like you are in their pizza home. Delicious hot pizzas staff has you feeling like you are in their pizza home. Delicious hot pizzas overflowing with toppings of your choice. Appetizers, salads, spaghetti, overflowing with toppings of your choice. Appetizers, salads, spaghetti, catfish, cheeseburgers, Philly cheese steaks, Broadway whole wings, daily catfish, cheeseburgers, steaks, Broadway whole wings, daily plate lunch specials, andPhilly more.cheese Located in Memphis’ Broad St. Arts District plate lunch specials, and save for cakes made daily. Located and look out, Memphis... NOWroom a second location at in-house 629 South Mendenhall in Memphis’ Broad St.Pizza Arts District andCall-in look out, Memphis... NOW a second at Poplar. Legendary since 1977. orders are welcomed! location at 629 South Mendenhall at Poplar. Legendary Pizza since 1977. Call-in orders are welcomed!

Celtic Crossing is an authentic Irish pub located in the heart of Midtown’s beloved Cooper-Young District. Custom art and imported furniture from Ireland create a cozy neighborhood hangout where you’ll always find good food, cold Guinness and lively conversation. We offer lunch and dinner every day, featuring food and drink specials, as well as brunch on Saturday and Sunday. Catch your favorite sporting events, live music, 60+ whiskeys and more at the pub. Don’t miss a thing! Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Huey’s

Lafayette’s Music Room

hueyburger.com

2119 Madison Ave • 901.207.5097 • lafayettes.com

Huey’s Restaurant, known for winning Best Burger in Memphis since 1984, is turning 50 this year! The family-owned business has since expanded to nine locations across Memphis and Mississippi. Over the past 50 years, Huey’s has established itself as a true Bluff City neighbor by participating in fundraisers and volunteering in charitable events throughout the city. The 50th anniversary celebration will be held outside of Huey’s Midtown on April 5th. If you have a Huey’s memory you would like to share in honor of the 50th anniversary, please email kferren@hueys.cc for a chance to be featured.

Located in Overton Square, the historic Lafayette’s Music Room offers a variety of Southern-inspired dishes for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. With offerings such as po-boys, sliders, shrimp and grits, wood-fired pizzas, and made-from-scratch desserts, Lafayette’s is a staple for all to enjoy great food, good local conversation, and the best live music in town.

Maximos On Broad

Memphis Pizza Cafe

2581 Broad Avenue Ave • 901.454.7930 & 629 South Mendenhall •• 901.207.1546 901.207.1546 • 901.454.7930 & 629 S. Mendenhall

2617 Broad Ave. • 901.452.1111 • maximosonbroad.com Taste the lively fusion cuisine and enjoy the quaint inviting feeling of Maximo’s on Broad tapas restaurant and wine bar, in the Arts District of Broad Avenue. Open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner (5-10 p.m.) and Sunday brunch (10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.). Join us for our $3.50 happy hour from 5-7 p.m. and Wine Wednesdays for half-price bottles of wine. Reservations are recommended.

903 S. Cooper St. • 901.274.5151 • celticcrossingmemphis.com

memphispizzacafe.com memphispizzacafe.com Our crust is prepared one way — thin and crisp. Choose one of our specialty Our crust is prepared thinextensive and crisp.ingredients Choose one of and our specialty pizzas or create your one own way from—our list, see why pizzas or create your own from our extensive ingredients list, and see why we’ve been voted “Best Pizza” 20 years in a row. Best pizza. Coolest we’ve been “BestOverton Pizza” Square 26 years a row. Best -pizza. Coolest workers. Fivevoted locations: at in 2087 Madison 901.726.5343, workers. Four locations: Overton at 2087 Madison — 901.726.5343, East Memphis at 5061 Park Ave. Square - 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604 W. East Memphis at 5061 ParkSouthaven Ave. — 901.684.1306, Germantown at 7604and W. Farmington - 901.753.2218, at 5627 Getwell - 662.536.1364, Farmingtonat —797 901.753.2218, Collierville at 797 W. Poplar — 901.861.7800. Collierville W. Poplar -and 901.861.7800

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Molly’s La Casita 2006 Madison Ave • 901.726.1873 • mollyslacasita.com

SCENE DINING 2020

Park + Cherry

4339 Park Ave • 901.761.5250 • dixon.org/dine-and-shop-at-dixon

Molly’s La Casita has been voted one of the Best Mexican restaurants and Best Margarita for 37 years. Our menu has grown to include pork fajitas and bbq-pork tacos. The fun menu includes enchiladas, fajitas, burritos, vegetarian meals, sandwiches, shrimp tacos, grilled red snapper tacos and a pleasing children’s menu. Save room for dessert and be sure not to miss out on our World Famous Molly’s Margaritas! Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; and Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Happy hour is 3 p.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday; and Margarita Monday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Park + Cherry is a contemporary dining restaurant featuring modern fusion cuisine by Memphis’ own Chef Phillip Dewayne. Visitors can select from a range of dishes for lunch Tuesday – Saturday inside the Dixon Gallery and Gardens. The menu changes seasonally and features fresh items, as well as special Sunday brunch and dinner opportunities. Park + Cherry offers indoor and outdoor dining surrounded by the Dixon’s beautiful garden landscape.

R.P. Tracks

Rendezvous

R.P. Tracks has been serving the University of Memphis area since 1987. It is home to the World Famous BBQ Tofu Nachos, in addition to various other uniquely “Tracks” dishes. We have a full bar and a large beer selection including our favorite local beers on tap. We also offer brunch every Saturday and Sunday. R.P. Tracks is open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m.3 a.m. and Sunday 10 a.m.-3 a.m. Dine-in or carry-out. Please visit our website to see our full menu.

The Vergos family has been cooking up food in a downtown Memphis alley since 1948. The pork ribs are legendary, as are the waiters and the vintage Memphis décor. Winner of numerous awards in Southern Living and other publications, the menu offers barbecued ribs, pork shoulder, beef brisket, cheese plates, barbecue nachos, Greek salads, local beers and wine. We ship our ribs overnight, too! Call about private parties for lunch and dinner. Open for dinner, Tuesday-Saturday. Lunch, Friday-Saturday only. Closed Sunday and Monday. Check out our new catering menu online today!

3547 Walker Avenue • 901.327.1471 • rptracks.com

52 South Second Street • 901.523.2746 • 888.HOGSFLY • hogsfly.com

Young Avenue Deli

2119 Young Avenue • 901.278.0034 • youngavenuedeli.com Referred to as “The Deli” by locals, a neighborhood favorite for over 20 years. The menu features unique sandwiches made from scratch, hand-breaded cheese sticks, vegetarian fare, Memphis’s Best hand-patted hamburgers, and the Top 10 French Fries in the nation (USA Today). Cocktail menu and fully stocked bar, with more than 150 beers and 36 draft options. Large groups are welcome, in a family-friendly environment with pool tables, big screen TV, jukebox, and a pet-friendly patio. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 7 days a week, serving food until 2 a.m. Take-out and delivery available.

To advertise in the August 2020 Scene Dining please contact Margie Neal at: 901.521.9000 or margie@memphismagazine.com.

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ROAD TRIP

Downtown Hot Springs as seen from the 216-foottall Mountain Tower. 34 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0

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THE NEW

HOT SPRINGS The Arkansas resort town celebrates its past as it looks to a green future.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANIEL THIBODEAUX / DREAMSTIME

by chris mccoy

n a good day, you can drive from Memphis to Hot Springs, Arkansas, in under three hours. That must explain why, during a recent visit to the Spa City, I encountered so many people from Memphis. We stayed at The Waters, a hotel on Central Avenue that is part of a recent spate of rebuilding and renovation in the city’s historic downtown. Located in a former medical arts building, the boutique hotel features spacious rooms with contemporary amenities. In the lobby, we ran into Memphian Greg Hisky, in the 1980s the leader of Neon Wheels, one of Memphis’ pioneering alternative bands; nowadays, he works for an aerospace company. “I love Hot Springs!” he exclaims. “I’ve been coming here my whole life.” Although Hisky was in Hot Springs on business, servicing the city’s small but significant aircraft industry, his first experience with the Arkansas mountain town involved, like most people’s, leisure. “I like to go down to Lake Hamilton. I grew up there. I used to spend my summers there. I caught my first fish there when I was a little boy.” Later, at The Pancake Shop, Hot Springs’ favorite breakfast spot, we find

ourselves seated next to Tim and Donna Parker, a Germantown couple who retired to Hot Springs. “We travel the world, and this is the nicest place we’ve ever been,” says Tim. The Parkers live in Hot Springs Village, a planned community that stretches across two counties. “It’s the best-kept secret in the nation,” says Tim. “They say that Arkansas is the Natural State. It really is. Any kind of outdoor sport you want F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 35

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to do is available here. Fishing, hunting, golf, anything.” The couple say they used to boat on Lake Ouachita, but Donna says, “Our thing now is to sit back and enjoy life.” And that’s what she recommends Memphians do when they visit her adoptive home town. “People need to come and relax — relax and enjoy it!”

A City of Firsts

above: Hot Springs was the home of professional baseball’s ﬁrst spring training camps. Murals, such as this one dedicated to legendary pitcher Lefty Grove, commemorate the city’s history. above right: People from all over the world have been coming to the horse races at Oaklawn since 1904. Even today, you can still get a ticket to see world-class thoroughbreds run for less than $5.

gress, at the request of the Arkansas legislature, created the first-ever federal reservation here — National Parks weren’t a thing yet. The goal was to preserve the thermal springs, where 140 degree Fahrenheit water bubbles up from the hills that surround the town. The spot soon became a mecca for people who sought to soothe their ailments by bathing in the warm, pure waters. Entrepreneurs created all kinds of entertainment to lure the bathers, and Hot Springs soon became one of the country’s first resort towns. During the early twentieth century, Hot Springs boomed as residents of St. Louis and Dallas made the trek to the Ouachita Mountains to take the waters and promenade on the brick-paved mountain trails above Central Avenue. Gambling was illegal in Arkansas, but those laws were rarely enforced in Hot Springs. As you can learn at the Gangster Museum of America on Central, gangsters from Chicago came here when the heat was on in the Windy City. Al Capone even had his own suite at the then-new Arlington Hotel. “The Arlington is the largest hotel in Arkan-

sas, with 500 rooms, says Hot Springs City to Arkansas Derby Day, our record is 72,000. Manager Bill Burrough. “It’s not just a Hot Last year, in the pouring rain, we had 45,000.” Springs icon or a Garland County icon, it’s The track has had its ups and downs over the decades, but Hoyt credits a pair of horsa state icon.” There’s also an unexpected sporting cones for reviving Oaklawn at critical times. nection in Hot Springs, says Greg Hisky. “Smarty Jones is the horse that put Oaklawn “This is the home of the first spring training. back on the map. Late in the 1990s, people Dizzy and Daff y [Dean] used to have a big were writing headlines that Oaklawn was baseball camp here.” Arkansas sports leggoing to close. … In 2004, we celebrated 100 end Dizzy Dean brought his friends down to years in existence. In celebration of that, work on their offseason chops, a novel idea at Charles Sela put up a $5 million bonus to any the time when America’s pastime was in its horse that could win the Rebel Stakes, the first boom phase. “There’s a plate on the back Arkansas Derby, and the Kentucky Derby. corner of the Weyerhaeuser parking lot,” says “Lo and behold, this little horse from PennBurrough. “That used to be a baseball field. sylvania was here all winter and won not only You can still see the concrete those races, but won the SouthThanks to a change in west Stakes to kick off the seableachers on the mountainside. Babe Ruth hit a home run laws, the gambling that son, then the Rebel, then the from that plate that landed in Arkansas Derby, went into the has always been a part the second pond at the alligator Kentucky Derby as the favorite farm, 500 feet away. We’re so of Hot Springs history and won, then won the Preakproud of that history.” ness Stakes and just missed is now legal. But the site of the first spring winning the Belmont Stakes.” The second hero horse is immortalized in training soon became a victim of its own success, as the players discovered the city’s bronze in front of Oaklawn. In 2015, American famous party atmosphere, and not enough Pharoah became the first horse in 37 years to win the coveted Triple Crown, and the first actual training was getting done. “They had ever to win the Grand Slam of thoroughbred to move to Florida, because they were having racing. Since Oaklawn’s racing season starts too much fun here,” says Burrough. in January and runs through May, it has become the place where horses come to prove Off to the Races he most popular sport at the their mettle before moving on to conquer the turn of the twentieth century was not big races in Kentucky and beyond. “We are baseball, it was horse racing. In 1904, the only thoroughbred racetrack in North Louis Cella founded a racetrack he called America that has raised purses for 12 consecOaklawn. More than 3,000 people came to utive years,” says Hoyt. “We are in the midst of watch the six races held on its first day. Toour third major expansion since 2009.” day, the Cella family still owns and operates Thanks to a change in laws, the gambling Oaklawn Racing Casino Resorts, says Jennithat has always been a part of Hot Springs fer Hoyt, Oaklawn media relations manager. history is now legal. Oaklawn’s casino re“Our current president, Louis Cella, is the cently expanded to 84,000 square feet and fourth generation. We are the longest conincludes live table games and sportsbook in addition to betting on the ponies. Next year, tinually operated sports franchise across all a brand-new, 200-room hotel will open, with genres. … One thing that Oaklawn hasn’t lost that a lot of other racetracks have lost half the rooms facing the track and the other is the crowd. We still average about 20,000 half overlooking the mountains. “Horse racduring a typical Saturday. But when we get ing is a very traditional sport,” says Hoyt. “We

PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS: ABOVE LEFT, BY LAURA JEAN HOCKING / ABOVE RIGHT, COURTESY OAKLAWN RACING CASINO RESORT

ot Springs holds a unique place in American history. It represents the first time the federal government tried to preserve a plot of land for the enjoyment and posterity of the people. In 1832, President Andrew Jackson and Con-

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Join us for the 3rd annual

FREE CAMP EXPO ADMISSION

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 29TH

11am-2pm

PINK PALACE

3050 CENTRAL AVENUE

Meet the staff and leadership of area camps and learn all about your child's spring, summer, and fall enrichment options. Representatives from day camps, sports camps, overnight camps, enrichment camps, educational camps, and more will be on hand! Check out memphisparentcampexpo.com for more information, and be sure to follow Memphis Parent on your favorite social channel for updates!

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Spa

AT THE ALLUVIAN

have a lot of traditions here, but one of the things we’re trying to get out of the mindset of is saying, well, that’s the way we’ve always done it.” ut let’s get to the important part about Oaklawn: Years ago, before we met, my wife Laura Jean Hocking visited the Arkansas Derby. That day, she ate a reuben sandwich, and I’ve been hearing about how good it was for our entire relationship. When we sat down at the Silks restaurant for lunch, my order was pre-ordained. I’ve had reuben sandwiches at the New Apollo Diner in New York City and at the legendary Cantor’s in Los Angeles. There’s no way this place in Arkansas topped those two eateries, right? Wrong! The reubens at Oaklawn are exqui-

business through an unusual path. She is a classically trained tuba player, with a master’s degree in music.“Tuba players love beer,” she says with a laugh. She moved to Hot Springs a decade ago, attracted by the town’s annual classical music festival. “The first time I saw the Superior Bathhouse was in 2011. When I walked through the door, I could picture what we are doing right now — sitting along a rail in the window. It’s such a big, open space.” After two years of proposals, negotiations with the federal government, and securing financing, Schweikhart opened the first-ever brew pub in a National Park, all thanks to Hot Springs’ famous water. “It’s fantastic for brewing for two reasons. First, when I open the tap, it’s 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The first step in brewing beer is heating up a ton of water, which takes a lot of time and energy.

The reuben sandwich at Silks, inside Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort. The corned beef is lightly grilled and crispy, the bread is a perfect marbled rye, and the cheese is appropriately gooey.

The Bee’s Knees Honey Basil Kolsch (foreground) is available at the Superior Bathhouse Brewery, the only place in America where you can have beer brewed with the pure hot springs water.

Reubens, Steak, and Beer

Volunteer with your entire family—no matter your child’s age! Track your volunteer hours on your profile so you can easily verify your child’s hours for school. Go to www.volunteerodyssey.com to get started today. Questions? Email Ariana at ariana@volunteerodyssey.com

So we’re ahead of the game by having almost site creations, a little bit crispy and chewy in free hot water.” all the right places, with gooey cheese and enough corned beef to satisfy but not so The second reason? “Chemically, it much as to overwhelm. They lived up to the is a blank slate,” she says. “Geologically, hype. Oaklawn serves 30 tons of corned beef our spring water is forced up through a every season, and if you catch it on a throwlimestone bed. It’s a geothermal fissure, back day, you can get one at the track snack where two mountain ranges are slowly bar for 50 cents. moving against each other. “We have water that is There are no shortages of It heats the water and forces great food and drink in Hot very similar to Cologne it up through the limestone. Springs. The Avenue restaurant The water we drink today is or Dusseldorf in in The Waters hotel features 4,000-year-old rainwater. It’s Germany, which is also very low in minerals that can shrimp and grits, surf and turf, and a mushroom-based vegan contribute f lavors to beer you very famous for beer.” steak dinner. For real steaks, don’t want. So basically, we — Rose Schweikhart the historic Brick House Grill, have water that is very simitucked into Spencer’s Corner, serves up unlar to Cologne or Dusseldorf in Germany, beatable filets and ribeyes in a room filled which is also very famous for beer.” with local art. Schweikhart grew up in New Jersey and The famous Bathhouse Row, once the city’s lived in big cities all her life until she came reason for being, sat vacant and crumbling to Hot Springs. The small-town life suits her. after the last facility closed in the 1980s. One “Eight years ago, Rose was a different person. of the signs of the city’s comeback is the acI’m not sure I was that happy, but I’m happy tivity that has returned to these gorgeous now in Hot Springs. We kind of get the best of historic buildings, and there’s no better exboth worlds. It’s a small town with an urban ample than the Superior Bathhouse Brewnightlife. Then I can hop on my mountain bike ery. Owner Rose Schweikhart came to the and be at a trail head in five minutes.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA JEAN HOCKING

325D Howa rd St reet G reenwood, M S 662- 4 51- 670 0 t heal luvian.com/t he-al luvian-spa

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E S C A P E T O PA R A D I S E

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A Green Future

here are three epic trails within 30 minutes of Hot Springs,” says biker Tracy Berry, who, like many of her friends, hangs out at the Superior Bathhouse. “People have been coming through here for a very long time to ride. The difference is that now, people are staying to ride our trails.” Berry moved to the city full-time a year ago to become the Northwoods Trails Coordinator for Visit Hot Springs. The new network of biking trails winds through the woods in and around Hot Springs. The course was designed by International Mountain Biking Association specialists and funded by the Walton Family Foundation; it is divided into different skill levels like ski slopes. “Typically what we’ve had around here are your traditional, single-track, hand-cut, volunteer-built, cross country trails,” says Berry. “This is new to this region.”

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City manager Burrough says the new trails, which will eventually be expanded to 40 miles long, are a sign of Hot Springs’ green future. “What we have seen is, not many people who come here for the lakes come into downtown, and not many people who come here for the National Park really go out to enjoy the lakes. But now, we’re seeing that kind of blend. Since we’ve had some of the changes in our downtown area over the last five years, it’s starting to draw crowds. They realize there’s more to Hot Springs than just the lake and Oaklawn.” Burrough’s administration recently signed a pact with Scenic Hill Solar of Little Rock. “We’re very proud of the fact that, at the time we signed this agreement, we will be one of only six cities in North America that are totally reliant on renewable energy,” he says. “I think there’s going to be a lot more.” The city is currently paying an average of 8.8 cents per kilowatt hour for the 20 million kwh it uses each year. Scenic Hill Solar will deliver power for 5.9 cents per kwh, increasing by a predictable 1 percent a year for the next 28 years. The 36,000 panels, which Burrough hopes will be completed by the end of the year, will be located on about 10 acres of city-owned land. “When you first look at something like this, it seems really big,” says Burrough. “You think, man, do we even have time to bite something like this off? But when you look at the benefits, both financially and environmentally, it’s almost your responsibility to do it.” Hot Springs may no longer be a draw for notorious characters like Al Capone, but it’s got plenty of unique attractions for people of all ages. For that matter, the reuben alone is worth the drive.

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MATTERS OF THE

HEART

Cardiovascular problems should always be taken seriously, and doctors are placing more emphasis on preventing them.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDOR BUJDOSO / DREAMSTIME

by michael finger

on’t drive yourself to the hospital if you think you’re having a heart attack. That’s really the only thing Memphian Peter Baker* did wrong when he noticed persistent pains in his shoulder, of all places, after his exercise regimen one morning in December. Baker had long maintained a healthy and active lifestyle. In his early 60s, though no longer a cross-country cyclist, he took three-mile walks daily. Already thin as a board, in recent years he began following a heart-healthy diet. “I try to eat organic,” he says. “For breakfast it’s a bowl of fruit with yogurt on it, and for lunch maybe rice and guacamole. At night, it’s usually salmon with rice or broccoli.” * Not his real name

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Every morning Baker would rise at 4 and before he began his walk would do stretches and then situps and pushups. That particular morning, he noticed a sharp twinge in an unusual location. “When I stood up, I felt a pain on the top of my shoulder, so I thought I had pulled a muscle,” he says. He still went on his long walk and took an aspirin when he got home. That made the pain go away, but it came back. A few tablets of ibuprofen relieved the discomfort — but again it returned. “So I started debating,” he says. “Is it only a pulled muscle, or is it something else?” That’s when he remembered a friend who had recently suffered a heart attack while driving, and her first clue was pain in her back. With her experience in mind (she survived, but required open-heart surgery) Baker began to take the persistent symptoms more seriously. That afternoon, some 12 hours F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 43

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901 HE A LTH

after the pain first started, he drove to the into an artery through the femoral artery on a nearest emergency room. patient’s leg. Baker would require open-heart “It just didn’t seem like a muscle hurting,” bypass surgery. he says, “and I thought, at least I’ll know what That operation was a success, and after it is, even though they’ll tell me it’s a pulled a total of nine days in the hospital, Baker is muscle and give me more aspirin.” recovering at home. For a few weeks, he was At the hospital, nurses instructed not to drive, did preliminary tests, and to sleep on his back so “When I talk to patients, I a doctor asked Baker if the chest incision would try to make them understand he felt nauseous or short heal properly, and not that prevention is a lifetime to lift anything “heaviof breath. “I said no,” he er than a teacup,” but says, “and since my EKG endeavor. You don’t start in he is making slow but apparently looked fine, your 50s, or 40s, or 30s.” and they didn’t seem all steady improvement. that urgent — I mean, “For me, this just — Dr. Arie Szatkowski they didn’t call in the shows that you can do Harvey team or bring in a crash cart — I everything that’s recommended — eat right still thought it was a muscle.” and exercise — and you can still have a heart Then a nurse gave him the bad news. “She attack,” Baker says. “But I guess a healthy lifesaid, ‘We’re going to keep you in the hospital style lessens the severity if you do have one.” because your heart enzymes are elevated, and that indicates a heart attack,” says Baker. A NEW EMPHASIS “And I thought, ‘Wow!’” ON PREVENTION More bad news was to come. An angiogram espite the ordeal of the sur— a procedure where a cardiologist injects gery, Baker is one of the lucky ones. He dye into a patient’s bloodstream and watches survived. Every year, cardiovascular events a monitor to see the blood flow around the such as heart attacks and strokes kill more heart – revealed two cardiac arteries were than a million people in the United States blocked. Even worse, the blockages could not alone, according to the American Heart Asbe cleared by stents — springy coils threaded sociation. Great advances have certainly been

made in cardiac procedures. In Baker’s case, the surgeon closed his chest incision with a special adhesive; in the past, open-heart surgeries left patients with a disfiguring “zipper” of metal stitches. Even so, there is now a special emphasis on keeping patients from reaching that stage. “As a result of recent trials, we’ve discovered new ideas and findings that change our approach towards cardiac disease,” says Dr. Arie Szatkowski, a cardiologist with Stern Cardiovascular Center and medical director of cardiac services for Baptist Hospital. “When I talk to patients, I try to make them understand that prevention is a lifetime endeavor. You don’t start in your 50s, or 40s, or even 30s. You have to start at a very young age, and if your parents make the extra effort about your future and your life, then they will establish a healthy environment for you.” Some things are beyond a patient’s control. “There’s little we can do about gender or aging, and many of the diseases we develop — cancer or lung and kidney problems — are directly correlated to aging and even genetics,” says Szatkowski. “But in the general world of heart disease, there are indeed modifiable risk factors.”

STAY ON A HEALTHY DIET

n the end, it really comes down to avoiding processed foods, fast foods, and the consumption of simple sugars and carbohydrates,” says Szatkowski. “Try to consume a balanced diet that’s made up of fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, chicken, legumes.” If patients want to follow a specific health diet, the Mediterranean diet, with its emphasis on olive oil, legumes, and unrefined grains, seems to be the best, he says.

MONITOR YOUR BLOOD PRESSURE

ASK ABOUT NEW MEDICATIONS

M Dr. Arie Szatkowski with Stern Cardiovascular Center

ore effective medicines have reached the market that have, as Szatkowski puts it, “changed the paradigm of treatment.” In the past, diabetic drugs concontin u ed on page 48

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL FINGER

n the past, optimum blood pressure was anything under 140/90. “More extensive data shows that a blood pressure of 130/80 is even better, and for certain populations, such as diabetics, those numbers should be even lower,” says Szatkowski. “Large trials support that, but with elderly people, if you drop that number too low, you can cause harm by making them lightheaded and even reduce bloodflow to their kidneys. So you have to approach each individual and understand what’s important to them. You want to reduce their risk of a cardiac outcome, but not impact the quality of their life.”

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MEMPHIS GOES RED FOR HEART MONTH

uring Heart Month each February, Memphis and the Mid-South join together to ignite a wave of red from the banks of the Mississippi to the Collierville Town Square and everywhere in between. From landmarks to news anchors and neighborhoods to online communities; this annual phenomenon unites thousands of people for a common goal: ending heart disease and stroke in the Mid-South.

What is American Heart Month? The first American Heart Month was proclaimed by President Lyndon B. Johnson in February 1964. While it is a federally designated month in the United States, the truth is heart disease knows no borders. Cardiovascular disease and stroke remain the leading global cause of death with more than 17.9 million deaths each year. That number is expected to rise to more than 23.6 million by 2030. For women, heart disease and stroke cause 1 in 3 deaths each year – more than all cancers combined. Every 80 seconds a woman dies of cardiovascular disease. In Memphis that is enough to fill FedExForum almost seven times. Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland has proclaimed the first Friday this month, February 7, 2020, as National Wear Red Day in the city of Memphis. This month volunteers, survivors, and supporters amplify the American Heart Association’s lifesaving message to raise awareness and spur action, such as knowing your numbers and family history, recognizing the signs and symptoms of both a heart attack and stroke, learning CPR, making a healthy behavior change, and more. “Eighty percent of cardiovascular diseases can be prevented with lifestyle changes,” says AHA Executive Director Trey Moore. “So it’s important that we continue to make strides in addressing social influencers of health, including access to quality care and healthy foods. “As a city, Memphis has so much heart, but it continues to be vital for us to raise awareness and educate the Mid-South community on what steps to take to know their risk factors and lead a hearthealthy life.” This year’s Heart and Stroke Ball Chair, Kent Ritchey, president of Landers Auto Group, says 2020 will be a breakthrough year of Memphis achievements. “I am honored to chair this prestigious event,” says Ritchey. “Over the years we have taken major steps towards building a healthier Mid-South; however, our work is not done. We look forward to joining forces with other local leaders as we come together to fight the number-one killer in the Mid-South.” “Whether it’s donating sports equipment to students, hosting CPR trainings, or promoting women’s health, the American Heart Association is devoted to fighting cardiovascular disease and stroke and we couldn’t be more proud to support this cause,” says Ritchey. Heart Month activities will happen throughout the city all month long. The premier event, the Heart and Stroke Ball, will be

at The Peabody on February 22nd. Doors open at 6 p.m. with a cocktail reception and silent auction. The program includes health information and a heart-healthy seated dinner and culminates with a compelling survivor’s testimony. The annual 2020 Heart and Stroke Ball is sponsored by Landers Auto Group, Stern Cardiovascular Foundation, FedEx, Methodist Le Bonheur Healthcare, Mid-South Maternal Fetal Medicine, Mid-South PICC, LLC, Ring Container Technologies, and many more local supporters. Media sponsors include Contemporary Media, Inc., WMC Action News 5, 4Memphis Magazine, RSVP Magazine, and Lamar Advertising. To get involved with the Mid-South American Heart Association visit www.heart.org/MidSouth or call 901-248-7954. For tickets and information about the Heart and Stroke Ball visit MidSouthHeartBall.Heart.org.

LOCAL AHA EVENTS 2020 Mid-South Heart and Stroke Ball Chair: Kent Ritchey, President, Landers Auto Group Honorary Chair: Dr. Steven Gubin, Stern Cardiovascular Saturday, February 22, 2020 The Peabody Memphis, 149 Union Avenue For more information, contact Courtney.Morrison@Heart.org 2020 Mid-South Heart Walk Chair: Dr. Michael Ugwueke, President and CEO, Methodist Le Bonheur Healthcare Saturday, April 25, 2020 FedExForum, 191 Beale Street For more information, contact Courtney.Morrison@Heart.org 2020 Go Red for Women Luncheon Chair: Dr. Cassandra Howard Vice President and Chief Medical Officer, Methodist Le Bonheur Healthcare-Germantown Thursday, June 4, 2020 Elvis Presley’s Graceland Soundstage, 3717 Elvis Presley Blvd. For more information, contact Courtney.Morrison@Heart.org

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901 HE A LTH

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trolled blood sugar levels but tended to have cardiac side effects. The first line of treatment is now Metformin, “the only drug that not only helped control diabetes but led to a reduction in cardiovascular events.” Two other new classes of drugs are SGLT-2 inhibitors (Invokana or Jardiance) and GLP-1 agonists (Trulicity, Ozempic). “It’s the first time that drugs solely focused on the treatment of diabetes have had an incredible impact on reducing death in patients with existing coronary artery disease,” says Szatkowski. What’s more, new trials are showing that these medications are even helping non-diabetic patients. “So we are adding these to our list of drugs we could use to prevent bad outcomes, and now we have multiple options for treatment.”

CHECK YOUR CHOLESTEROL

atients with coronary artery disease should be on a statin drug,” says Szatkowski, “and this is based on loads of data and trials.” Szatkowski believes anyone with LDL (low-density lipoprotein) higher than 190 should try statins, such as Lipitor or Crestor. These aren’t magic pills, however. “Just because you take this drug, it doesn’t mean you have no chance of having a prob-

PHOTOGRAPH BY ID SHAO-CHUN WANG | DREAMSTIME

contin u ed from page 4 4

Using the Apple Watch, doctors tracked 500,000 patients. “It proved we could use this technology to monitor patients without having them set foot in a doctor’s office.” — Dr. Arie Szatkowski

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lem,” he says. “But if five people out of a hundred have a cardiac event without the drug, maybe now it’s one out of a hundred. And you may be one of those four.” He understands that many people are reluctant to ingest “chemicals” on a daily basis; they prefer something natural. “Most of the natural remedies may lower cholesterol, but they don’t lead to a reduction in heart attack, stroke, and death,” he says. “So what’s the

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point? If you want to eat red yeast or rice, that’s wonderful, but no trial has proven that these are effective.” Statins are usually taken once daily. A new class of medications for lowering LDL, such as Repatha, is injected once a week. An even newer drug that specifically targets high triglycerides, which is still going through patient trials, would be taken every six months. “So one subcutaneous injection, and your cholesterol is perfect,” says Szatkowski.

GO HIGH TECH

zatkowski has seen dramatic advances with implantable devices, such as pacemakers, which can be adjusted remotely so the patient doesn’t need to visit the cardiologist. Even heart rhythm problems can now be monitored by a device already worn on many patients’ wrists — the Apple Watch. “It’s always hard to enroll people in medical trials,” says Szatkowski. “We can get 200 people, and sometimes up to 5,000.” Using the Apple Watch, cardiologists recently completed the Apple Heart Study, which tracked 500,000 patients. “Everyone got a text from Apple, asking if they could be remotely monitored for a heart rhythm problem,” says Szatkowski. “The response was amazing. Not only were we able to determine how many people had a condition like atrial fibrillation, we could see how long the episodes lasted. It proved we can use this technology to monitor

and treat patients without having them set foot in a doctor’s office.”

GET SOME SLEEP

erhaps the easiest thing anyone can do to prevent heart attacks is as simple as getting enough sleep. Studies have shown a direct correlation between sleep and cardiac events. But as with anything, moderation is key. “In a particular trial, folks who slept less than six hours a night had a substantially increased risk of a heart attack,” says Szatkowski. “On the other hand, people who slept more than nine hours a night trended towards an increase in heart attacks. So the ‘sweet spot’ is anywhere from six to nine hours.”

INTO THE FUTURE

urrent trials and studies are examining the impact of blood thinners, vitamins, and even genetics. The main thing, says Szatkowski, is to follow an active, healthy lifestyle, and to be aware of unusual symptoms. A heart attack — as Peter Baker learned — may not present as the typical chest pain. “Suddenly, something changes,” says Szatkowski. “Maybe it’s a squeezing in your chest, or even in your shoulder or jaw. Maybe it’s something you’ve never felt before. Don’t sit around and think about it. It’s always better to get it checked out.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREA DE MARTIN / DREAMSTIME

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

Home Court Advantage When Arveal Turner wanted to introduce tennis to Memphis kids, he built his own court.

by maya smith few cracks, likely caused by wear and tear from hundreds of feet and thousands of balls, run through the dark-green tennis surface. On the far end of the seasoned court, a brick wall, also painted green but a few shades lighter, boasts “Epiphany

Court” in black letters. A fence riddled with fading tennis balls stretches above the wall. Over nearly four decades, Arveal Turner, now 75, has taught tennis to hundreds of kids on this court built in the backyard of his South Memphis home. Turner’s tennis program for youth has PHOTOGRAPH BY MAYA SMITH

become well-known in the African-American tennis community. Turner, dressed in a gray sweatsuit and cap embroidered with “Epiphany Court,” leads the way past baskets of tennis balls stacked on the deck close to the door of his house. He takes a seat in the den next to a towering bookshelf displaying trophies of all sizes and stacks of books. Behind Turner, a life-size action photo of Muhammad Ali hangs on the wall. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 51

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

Epiphany Court, because of the transformative effect tennis has once you start playing. It’s an epiphany moment.”

campaigns, working with politicians such as Harold Ford Sr., Roscoe Dixon, and Lamar Alexander. “As a matter of fact, you might even say I started the Ford machine,” he says. Turner also notes he was the person who suggested Ray Charles’ version of the song “Alexander’s Ragtime Band” for Alexander’s 1996 presidential campaign. “You know the song,” Turner says singing a few lines of the chorus. “I was trying to make the city, state, and world a better place by getting people elected that I thought represented some of my ideas,” Turner says of his time working with politicians. “I think politicians should think more about their constituents and the good they can do for them instead of how they can stay in office.” Last year, Turner rekindled his passion for politics and decided to run for a vacant Memphis City Council seat. He ran for one reason only, he says: to advance tennis in Memphis. As Turner anticipated, he didn’t win, but “it was worth a shot.” Turner wishes to return to the days when there was a community mindset around tennis in Mem-

Arveal Turner with some of the publicity he’s garnered over the years.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAYA SMITH

“I chose the name

Turner doesn’t know for certain where he was born and doesn’t have a birth certificate. He says he was likely born in Woodville, Mississippi, near Baton Rouge. At least that’s where he grew up. His childhood was ideal, he says, likening his hometown to Andy Griffith’s fictional town of Mayberry. Turner spent his youth swimming in ponds and lakes, hunting rabbits, and fishing. He was the third child of six kids. His mother was a maid and his father, a roustabout, Turner says, did a lot of odd jobs. One thing he learned from his parents was how to work hard and provide for a family. When Turner graduated from high school, he joined the military and spent three years in the Air Force overseas during the Vietnam War. Transitioning from the military back into civilian life in his mid-twenties, Turner and his wife moved to Memphis. Here, he attended LeMoyne-Owen College and was on his way to law school after graduation. He never made it to law school, though: He was side-tracked by politics. Turner got involved in a number of political

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phis. He says there should be more access to facilities and a wider effort to get youth involved in the sport. “You didn’t have to contact anyone to go play back when I first started,” Turner says. “You just went to the courts knowing there would be a whole group there waiting to not only play tennis but to sit and talk after we got done. There were people of all ages there intermingling and playing.” Turner was a basketball player before he took an interest in tennis. He played basketball in high school, college, and in his time overseas during the Vietnam War. He even developed a basketball team for the Air Force and went into villages to put on basketball camps for the kids there. He didn’t pick up a tennis racket until 1972. “At a little park over there on Parkway near Lauderdale, there were two tennis courts next to the basketball courts. Whenever I would lose out in basketball, I’d wander over there to the tennis courts and swat around the balls.” He says he learned fast and developed a fondness for the game. “At the risk of sounding conceited, I was a pretty good basketball player,” Turner says. “So when I picked up tennis, my footwork was there even before my strokes were.” Turner spent most of the 1970s playing at what used to be the John Rogers Tennis Center on Jefferson. “Everybody played there. That was the beginning of integration for tennis in Memphis. We had a tournament every year that we called White on Black, Black on White,” Turner says with a chuckle. “Those were the days.” John Rogers was one of the more accepting places for black tennis players back then, Turner says. But it wasn’t always easy for a black man playing tennis in the South. “They let you know what you were,” he says. “I’ve been called the n-word through the fence. But tennis brought me in touch with a lot of different people I would probably have never intermingled with, so I’m glad for that.” Turner played in a few adult pro circuits and built a name for himself in the tennis world. Then, a little less than a decade after first stepping on a tennis court, Turner opened his own facility right in his own backyard. He named it Epiphany Court. “I chose that name because of the transformative effect tennis has once you start playing,” he says. “It’s an epiphany moment.” Before he settled into this house, Turner says he was teaching tennis at a nearby apartment complex. At the time, the City of Memphis was not hiring African-American pros at the city’s courts — an issue Turner sued the city over in the 1980s.

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

The suit was brought after Turner says he was denied a job which was instead given to a white man. “The position was for someone who was college-educated and had experience. I had both and he had neither. They gave it to him.” Turner didn’t win the lawsuit, but he thinks he started an important conversation which led to the hiring of one of the city’s first black tennis pros, Tony Womeodu. While teaching at the apartment complex, Turner began looking for a house with enough land to build at least one court. “This house was not for sale when I found it. With-

A HELPING HAND AT HOME

The albums, with newspaper clippings, postcards, and other memorabilia falling from in between the pages, hold snapshots of kids he’s taught throughout the

As we grow older, independent living becomes more and

years. Some of the images are in

more difficult. Yet, even when faced with severe physical

black and white, some of them are

and/or cognitive decline, most seniors express a desire

in color, but all of them capture the

to continue living at home. To do so, many require ag-

impact of Turner’s work. out the owner’s permission, I went in the backyard and counted it off. I knew I needed at least 80 by 30 feet of space. The space was there and I knew it was the place. “The timing turned out to be just right,” he continues. “The owner was getting older and needed to move out.” A few weeks after mentally measuring his future tennis court, Turner made an offer and the owner accepted. Over the years, Turner says his program transformed from a backyard operation to one that is well-known throughout the state. Many of his students have gone on to compete at the college level. “This is why I’ve done it and why I keep doing it,” Turner says, walking over to a bookshelf and retrieving half a dozen photo albums. The albums, with newspaper clippings, postcards, and other memorabilia falling from in between the pages, hold snapshots of kids he’s taught throughout the years. Some of the images are in black and white, some of them are in color, but all of them capture the impact of Turner’s work. Nearing his late 70s, Turner now teaches tennis three days a week and won’t stop teaching anytime soon. “Why would I stop now?” he says, grinning widely. “As a matter of fact, I have a class in an hour I have to get ready for.”

ing in place services. The non-medical in-home personal care provided to our seniors by Homecare by Wesley is

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to the quality of care

instill confidence and provide convenience. Each plan of

and quality of life of

care is personalized to fit the evolving needs of each se-

all our clients.”

nior. This flexibility ensures needs are met every step of

JEFFR EY P. HA NOVER Manager

the way.

homecarebywesley.org Phone: 901.380.4880

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We’re renaming our three specialized memory care neighborhoods. Celebrate the unveiling of our newly named neighborhoods chosen by you!

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 55

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03 2018

project location size project type

6263 Poplar Towers Memphis, TN 110,000 sf Office - Renovation

100 Peabody Place, Memphis, TN 38103 • 901.260.7370 • www.belzdesignbuild.com

©Jeffrey Jacobs Photography

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI CEO

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On behalf of eBiz Solutions, I would like to congratulate the winners of IMBâ€™s 2020 CEO of the Year Awards. As a third year presenting sponsor, we are truly honored and grateful to be part of such a prestigious event that echoes the talents, values and standards Memphis leadership embodies, and that eBiz Solutions trusts and celebrates.

eBiz Solutions is one of the top, innovative digital technology companies in the country. We partner with companies of all sizes to guide them in their transformation into a digital company to stay competitive and grow in the age of Artificial Intelligence, Cloud

Computing, and Mobility. This requires strong, innovative leaders that understands the

speed of change, and build a growth mindset culture that adopts continuously and stay

competitive. You have proven to be the business leaders that Memphis needs to prosper in this digital age.

This year, eBiz Solutions celebrates those who have exemplified the individual character and leadership it takes to ultimately improve their overall business and the Memphis community. Congratulations, honorees, and thank you for your contributions! Sincerely,

Sridhar Sunkara CEO eBiz Solutions

Consulting

Innovation

Technology

Digital Marketing

eBiz Solutions, LLC, 1255 Lynnfield Road, Suite 226, Memphis, TN 38119 | 901-492-1389 | info@thinkebiz.net | www.thinkebiz.net

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1000+ EMPLOYEES

WINNER JAMES R. DOWNING ST. JUDE CHILDREN’S RESEARCH HOSPITAL

200-1000 EMPLOYEES

very year, I N S I D E M E M P H I S B U S I N E S S takes nominations for outstanding CEOs. It’s heartening to look at the array of leaders all over the city devoted not only to making their respective businesses successful but also to raising the bar for what makes Memphis remarkable. As in the past, we chose four bosses according to the number of employees who are in their organizations. Read our profiles in the following pages and you’ll see that every one of them is making a difference. This is the eighth year of these awards, given to exceptional local leaders. They were selected by a panel from Contemporary Media, Inc., which publishes IMB as well as Memphis magazine, the Memphis Flyer, and Memphis Parent. A breakfast honoring the CEOs will be held on February 20th at Hardin Hall at Memphis Botanic Garden. Jack Soden of Elvis Presley Enterprises, one of the winners from last year, will address the gathering. The presenting sponsor of CEO of the Year is eBiz Solutions. Tickets for the breakfast are $25 per person. Tables of 10 are available for $200, a savings of 20 percent. For tickets, go to insidememphisbusiness.com. You’ve noticed, of course, that Inside Memphis Business is now inside Memphis magazine. We’re combining the two publications so that the IMB stories that have run in a separate magazine will now appear in issues of Memphis. We expect to provide the same content, including columns by Tom Jones and David S. Waddell, and longer stories by Andy Meek, such as the one on the future of banking in this issue. We’ll also have our annual CEO of the Year as in this issue, and later in the year we will reveal our Innovators of the Year. We’re continuing our coverage throughout the year of developments in the region, top meeting places with our Venue Menu, and philanthropy. In April, look for our annual Power Players listing inside Memphis magazine along with profiles of new inductees into the Society of Entrepreneurs. There’s plenty going on in Bluff City business and you can now read all about it in Memphis magazine. — Jon W. Sparks

CEO

WINNER GEORGE HERNANDEZ CAMPBELL CLINIC

50-200 EMPLOYEES

WINNER WILLIAM J. “WILL” CHASE JR. TRIUMPH BANK

1 - 50 EMPLOYEES

WINNER BRIGGETTE GREEN TOPCAT MASONRY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • I N S I D E M E M P H I S B U S I N E S S • 59

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1000+ EMPLOYEES

JAMES R. DOWNING

ST. JUDE CHILDREN’S RESEARCH HOSPITAL

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BY J O N W. S PA R K S

urely Dr. James R. Downing has one of the best jobs in the world. As president and CEO of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, he runs an organization devoted to the noblest of causes — saving children’s lives. But however lofty the mission, it still requires uncommon abilities to guide a visionary organization that is willing to undertake the most difficult challenges. Downing has a background that makes it possible. He’s been associated with St. Jude since the mid-1980s and has developed laboratory and clinical expertise. He also has leadership skills that he’s used to create teams capable of going after those challenges. Downing acknowledges the enormity of what he’s charged with doing. “We’re blessed with the perfect mission, with ample resources, and with a workforce that in my mind is second to none,” he says. “That combination lets us do things that just can’t be done anywhere else. And it’s been a fantastic journey for me to grow as a leader. We have been able to assemble a leadership team that allows me to conduct the business we have to conduct. They challenge me all the time. “As CEO I had to think long and hard and deeply about the vision for my tenure,” he says. “What were we going to try to accomplish? What were the areas where we needed to focus?” Along with that was finding who needed to be recruited and what partnerships needed to be established. And Downing’s vision needed to be tested. Was it the right one? Did it move St. Jude in the right direction to change the landscape of pediatric catastrophic diseases? As his vision came together, it would then be put into something concrete, a strategic plan with clear goals as well as continuing flexibility to makes changes as needed. “That planning process has been well ingrained into the institution and really served it well,” he says. “As CEO, a key job for me was communicating that plan in a way that really inspired the workforce. I’m constantly listening and communicating to the workforce and making sure that every single individual on this campus understands their role in accomplishing our mission and where they fit into the strategic plan.” Consistent with that, Downing has emphasized talent development, including St. Jude’s Leadership Academy to nurture managers and directors. “That helps us recruit and retain people and helps build a collaborative work environment. It’s my responsibility to create a culture here that allows every individual to do their best work. We have a wonderful culture, a unique

“We established the St. Jude Cloud to put all of our genomic data in and make it readily accessible to investigators everywhere in the world.”

culture in the field of medicine and science, a highly collaborative culture.” As CEO, Downing is keenly aware that reaching goals doesn’t mean it’s time to rest. “We’re approaching the sixth year of our six-year strategic plan starting in July, so we’re in the process of developing the next plan,” he says. The current plan stayed nimble by taking into account the inevitability of changing landscapes. With the next plan under construction, St. Jude is relying on employees to identify new ideas and opportunities, something Downing calls the Blue Sky process. “Every year individuals anywhere in the organization can bring forward new ideas for initiatives and programs at any level, from science and the medicine to administrative. We want initiatives that aren’t in the plan but have the potential to be transformative for the institution.” The role of CEO is not merely to shepherd things along. Downing says that for him, it’s about inspiring his teams and individuals. “Some would come in and say, ‘Well here’s an idea.’ And I’d look at it and tell them, ‘You’re not thinking big enough. You’re not thinking globally. You’re not thinking what we can do. I’m asking what needs to be done. Let’s think bigger and broader.’ People have come back and said, ‘Thank you for allowing us to dream because we can’t solve everything by ourselves.’ We constantly need to look out there and say, what is the real problem? And how might we actually solve that problem? And so collaborations are something that I’ve pushed since I started as CEO.” One of the most powerful collaborations that Downing has overseen emerged from the need to bring experts together from around the world. “We established the St. Jude Cloud to put all of our genomic data in and make it readily accessible to investigators everywhere in the world. The biologic samples are available to everybody around the world so that they can take what we’ve generated on this campus and use it to accelerate their research, which will accelerate progress against pediatric catastrophic diseases. The St. Jude Cloud is a major scientific community tool that is being used widely now by over 400 individuals from around the world, across many, many different institutions.” Meanwhile, the Memphis campus itself is changing rapidly with considerable construction of new facilities, from an advanced research center to a patient housing facility to a new administrative office building and more. It’s already changing the city’s skyline, even as the global effort expanding from the campus continues to aim to conquer pediatric catastrophic diseases. F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • I N S I D E M E M P H I S B U S I N E S S • 61

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200-1000 EMPLOYEES

GEORGE HERNANDEZ CAMPBELL CLINIC

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BY F R A N K M U R TA U G H

eorge Hernandez is in the business of easing pain. Whether it’s the limited mobility of a “frozen shoulder” or the life-changing need of a hip replacement, Campbell Clinic serves a most basic human need. We are functional creatures, and our moving parts require attention, and at every stage of life. “The breadth and types of patients we see are almost never-ending,” says Hernandez, “from a baby born with scoliosis to someone at a latter stage of life suffering debilitating arthritis. A joint replacement can return someone to a fruitful and enjoyable life. To see the improvement we can make on people’s lives . . . it’s so rewarding. You can literally impact the enjoyment of life.” Hernandez saw much of the country before making Memphis home in 1986. Born and raised in Delmar, New York (near Albany), he moved west to San Antonio, Texas, for graduate school after earning a degree in biology at the State University of New York in Plattsburgh. After discovering an acumen for healthcare administration at Trinity University, Hernandez spent time in Hawaii, Southern California, and Louisville before making his way to the Bluff City for a job with the University of Tennessee College of Dentistry. “When you come to Memphis, it has enough seasons to be different and enjoyable,” says Hernandez. “The traffic compared with Southern California [was delightful]. And great people, great food, and entertainment.” Hernandez joined Campbell Clinic in 1995 and spent 15 years as CFO alongside then-CEO John Vines, taking over as CEO in 2010 upon Vines’ retirement. “I’m thankful that I earned the trust and respect of the physicians who own the clinic,” reflects Hernandez. “I felt I was ready for the position. The timing was perfect, as John was ready to do the fun things that come with retirement and I was ready for something more than CFO [duties]. I’d had some mentoring in areas that John was very good at, like strategic planning.” In 2010, Campbell Clinic had almost 40 physician providers and topped $50 million in gross revenue. At the end of 2019 — after what amounts to a decade under Hernandez’s leadership — the company has more than 50 providers and reached $300 million in revenue. There are a total of five clinics and two surgery centers, the most recent development being the $46 million, four-story

“To see the improvement we can make on people’s lives . . . it’s so rewarding. You can literally impact the enjoyment of life.”

building on Wolf River Boulevard that opened in December. The new facility (a total of 120,000 square feet) features a physical therapy center and Accel Performance and Wellness on the ground floor and an ambulatory surgery center on the fourth floor (with eight operating rooms). There’s a ripple effect to Campbell Clinic’s work that Hernandez has come to appreciate, one that results from young physicians growing into the kind that make an impact on an international level. A rising specialist will often take a fellowship in another part of the country before returning to start a career at Campbell Clinic. This infuses new and fresh perspectives that yield growth throughout the business. “They’re talented, intelligent, and dedicated,” notes Hernandez, “but to see them grow a name for themselves through hard work, and become a spokesperson under the umbrella of Campbell Clinic, is really rewarding.” Counting 600 employees on his watch, Hernandez takes seriously the goal of making each feel like a priority. “It’s the most difficult part of my job,” he says. “I try to start at day one, attending [weekly] new-employee orientation. Give them some background on who I am, but more importantly, I want to understand who they are, how they joined us, and where they want to go. I give each of them a six-month assignment. I want them to evaluate how Campbell Clinic is as an employer to them. What do they think makes a good job a great job? How are we doing at meeting that criteria?” With a decade as CEO under his belt, Hernandez seeks new challenges — and answers for them — in an industry that must grow with the pace of technology and continue to provide the wide range of care our imperfect bodies require. “I continue to learn more,” says Hernandez. “I rely on my peers, the physicians who own the clinic, and our management staff. The larger a business grows, the more the strength of a management team will gauge success. The shortest-tenured member of our [six-person] administrative team is seven years.” Hernandez recently suffered a neck ailment, one that landed him in the hands of a member of his physical-therapy team, Kevin Olds. Lying on a table, his head literally in the hands of an employee, Hernandez screamed upon his neck being twisted suddenly . . . but precisely as he needed. Relief was immediate, a CEO’s impact come full circle.

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50-200 EMPLOYEES

WILLIAM J. “WILL” CHASE JR. TRIUMPH BANK

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BY SAM U E L X . C I C C I

n the early 2000s, business owners could have been forgiven for despairing when a number of local banks were snapped up by larger corporations. But where some people saw defeat, Will Chase saw opportunity. Together with a group of like-minded professionals, he sought to create an institution with a focus firmly fixed on Memphis. After a decade and a half of growth, it’s safe to say Triumph Bank proved Chase’s instincts were right. As president and CEO of Triumph since it opened its doors on June 5, 2006, Chase has overseen the accumulation of almost one billion dollars in assets. But that never would have been possible without careful planning. “There was a hole as a result of four institutions selling to out-of-town ownership,” says Chase. “There was capital available to invest by people who had also invested in community banks and understood what was going on. So, we thought there was an opportunity for a local bank that had local owners, with the primary director base comprising people who owned their own businesses.” The collective needed someone to run the operation, however, and Chase’s extensive banking background made him right for the job. “I went to high school in Memphis and after I graduated from Vanderbilt, I went into banking in 1978. I started out repossessing loans, but I think since then, I’ve probably done almost every job there is in banking.” With experience in business loans, asset based lending, commodity lending, and loans to cotton merchants, he knew the Bluff City’s market as well as anyone. Since it started primarily as a business bank in 2006, Triumph has grown its service base as well as its physical footprint. There are five primary locations in Memphis, Arlington, Germantown, Collierville, and Brentwood, and loan production offices in Memphis and Nashville. However, Triumph’s online client gives it a much wider reach, currently offering mortgages in 39 states. “We really have a broad scope,” says Chase. “We have a local business, we do business with other banks where we help them and their customers where they may not have the experience to get a home loan, and we have our internet channel, which we refer to as consumer direct. For a bank our size, quite frankly, it is pretty revolutionary for us to be able to do all these different things at the same time. I’d say we have one of the highest percentages of business loans of any bank domiciled in Shelby County.” Steady growth, however, means more staff

“Now we have a foundation that lets us work more easily with not-forprofit organizations that can make a real difference in the community.”

and retaining customers. Chase has been careful to place the right people in the right divisions to ensure that none of the bank’s services are overlooked when expanding across Memphis and the Mid-South. But as the bank gains a bigger influence, Chase always remembers Triumph’s local foundation. “We do a really good job of knowing our customers, what they do, and how they make money. When you have that knowledge, from dealing with a customer directly everyday at the bank, it’s a competitive advantage.” To keep those relationships alive, Chase makes himself available at all times, even on weekends. Many of his employees are also willing to offer that extra availability to their customers as well. Because of this close focus on homegrown connections, Chase says they don’t lose many customers. “We’re seeing something cool right now, too,” he says, “which is that many of our customers are doing generational transactions.” Since Triumph is so ingrained within Memphis, Chase wanted his bank to bolster its community service offerings. “We’ve always been involved, but a few years ago we looked back and wanted to start doing things with more intentionality,” he says. “One of our employees came here from a very large bank with a foundation, and he asked, ‘Why don’t we have a foundation?’ It was a great question, so we pursued that line, and now we have a foundation that lets us work more easily with not-for-profit organizations that can make a real difference in the community.” With strong relationships and assets piling up, it would be easy to take a foot off the gas. But Chase continues to look forward, always playing the long game when it comes to Triumph’s future. “We’re approaching a billion dollars, and that brings on quite a few extra regulatory requirements. We’ve been looking ahead to that, because we’ll get there sooner rather than later.” When that day comes, Chase will be ready, just as he’s always been. For even when there have been economic bumps in the road, Triumph is set up to withstand the storm. “We do a lot of financial analysis and ask a ton of questions,” Chase says. “We’ve had a lot of growth in our balance sheets over the last couple of years, and with the way many of our revenue streams are situated, if one part of the economy goes south, another may be doing very well. But at the end of the day, I get to work with so many outstanding bankers here, and I’m grateful for their confidence in me.”

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1 - 50 EMPLOYEES

BRIGGETTE GREEN TOPCAT MASONRY

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BY SAM U E L X . C I C C I

orget about being the top dog. Briggette Green and the rest of the crew at TopCat Masonry Contractors, LLC, have spent the better part of two decades climbing their way to the top of the contractors’ pile; those twenty-something years have manifested into a portfolio that would make any company jealous, with a hand in plenty of major developments around Memphis and the Mid-South. With TopCat approaching its 25th anniversary, managing partner Green continues to keep her business one step ahead of the curve. TopCat is a general contractor licensed in Tennessee and Mississippi. The company specializes in everything from brick block, rock, and stone, to precast glass block for commercial and industrial projects. Its portfolio includes a wide array of notable jobs around town, including Hattiloo Theatre, the LeMoyne-Owen College dorms, Douglass High School, and Goodlett Elementary School as recently as nine months ago. Moving close to the river, Green and TopCat have been involved with Memphis’ Downtown development boom, with their fingerprints all over projects such as FedExForum, Beale Street Landing, and The Chisca. Locking down excellent contracts around town speaks to Green’s experience in the field, but this wasn’t her first professional adventure. “My career actually started in banking at First American AmSouth,” she says. “I kind of miss that industry, the relationships I built with some of my longtime customers. But I think that a lot of skills I picked up in the financial field really prepared me to jump into TopCat and gave me the skills I needed to run my own business.” The process of cultivating relationships has especially come in handy, she says, when it comes to securing contracts for TopCat. “If a lot of competitive bids come in for a project and it’s tough for a client to pick who leads the project, having that personal relationship, where they know the work you’ve done and what you’re capable of, can provide an edge.” And when it comes to finding an edge, Green has always done the utmost to give herself all the tools to succeed. Going through programs like the Turner School of Construction Management and Leadership Memphis helped prep her to make TopCat a profitable enterprise. While she focuses on business development on a daily basis, she’s constantly attending seminars and training sessions. “I’m a big advocate of continual learning to stay abreast of new and innovative ideas,” Green says. “That keeps us at the forefront of the industry.” But to keep the TopCat machine running smoothly, Green does her best to cultivate a tight-knit atmosphere between leadership and her employees. A growing feeling of mutual trust and respect keeps things humming along nicely, and has helped to propel TopCat to even greater heights in its over-twodecades of activity. “Part of my belief is that when you have happy employees, you have a successful business,” she says. “People need to enjoy what they do.” The company frequently distributes what Green calls “spot awards” to let employees know that they’re

“Part of my belief is that when you have happy employees, you have a successful business. People need to enjoy what they do.”

being seen. “We do those when we catch people doing something right,” she says. “We want to hear everyone’s feedback and if they see something happen that they disagree with, encourage them to give us their input on a project. For example, once we finish a project, we have a meeting to go over whether anything could have been done differently. It really keeps everyone involved in the whole process.” Green’s willingness to listen isn’t exclusive just to TopCat, either. In 2018, she and two other companies helped launch the TAP Apprenticeship Program with the help of the Mid-South Minority Business Council to address a skilled labor force decline in the Memphis construction industry. “For years, I thought we needed to do something,” she says. “We rolled this out with Southwest Tennessee Community College [STCC] and Tennessee College of Applied Technology [TCAT] to find a way to help young people become taxpayers, rather than tax burdens.” Through TAP, enrollees have paid positions at TopCat (or other participating companies) during the day to learn all the necessary skills of the masonry trade. At night, they attend classes at TCAT to further their education. Upon completion of the program, students also have the opportunity to pursue higher education at STCC. Green says a good number of participants have been through the program already. Since she and other contractors need skilled people in order to grow their businesses, the TAP program is both a crucial philanthropic endeavor and a smart business decision. And with potential expansion on the horizon, the need for a qualified employee base is a more pressing need. “We’re looking to expand our business to the other Southern borders,” says Green. “There are some opportunities in Atlanta we’re looking at as well. But part of what I’ve seen over the years is that some people grow themselves out of business. We want to make sure that we have the right people as we expand our staff and grow, as opposed to just growing for growth’s sake. Because in this business, it’s not what you make, it’s what you keep. “One of my favorite quotes is from Henry Ford: ‘Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t, you are correct.’ It’s all about attitude and how you approach something. I think our experiences have come because we’ve stayed humble and remained focused on what our original drivers were, which were to become a world-class company and collaborate with others. You know, you don’t have to reinvent the wheel. You just have to get on the wheel, and use all the resources and take advantage of all the opportunities that are there for you.” F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • I N S I D E M E M P H I S B U S I N E S S • 67

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Inside Story /

FINANCE & INVESTMENT

In Pursuit of Solvency

Who among the presidential candidates is talking about our fiscal fortunes? BY DAV I D S . WA D D E L L

TV Shows • Columns • Radio Show • Books • Podcasts

fiscal disciplining, the Greek debt-to-GDP Before the great financial crisis, the ratio is now 181 percent, with interest costs gross debt-to-GDP ratio for U.S. federal below ours at 1.38 percent. The Japanese lead debt stood at 60 percent, essentially the planet with a debt-to-GDP ratio of 236 unchanged since 1990. Two years later, it percent, yet purchasers of their 10-year paper reached 82 percent after the deployment pay .09 percent annually for the privilege of of unprecedented stimulus measures owning their bonds due to negative rates. post-financial crisis. In response, a faction If investors are willing to lend to the Greek of House Republicans created the “Tea government with 181 percent debt-to-GDP at Party” as a check on fiscal profligacy, 1.38 percent, and to the President Obama apJapanese government pointed the Simpson with 236 percent debtBowles commission to-GDP at negative to propose tax and .09 percent, then the entitlement reform, breaking point for the and Speaker Paul venerable USA must be Ryan penned his Path many multiples higher to Prosperity budget before incurring any to reduce national financial disciplining indebtedness. Those from markets. In the efforts fell fallow as immortal words of our national debt Dick Cheney, “Deficits has risen without don’t matter.” interruption to 108 “The United States is the only percent today. country of the AAA-rated countries BOTTOM LINE: The In theory, higher lack of presidential debt levels should that does not have a credible fiscal debate around our reduce creditworconsolidation plan.” — Fitch Ratings fiscal fortunes seems thiness and drive up reckless, if not immoral, to many campaign interest costs. In practice, the major ratings observers. But individual and corporate debt agencies did downgrade U.S. treasury bonds issuers don’t have the luxury of printing in 2012. Fitch Ratings went so far as to say, their own currencies to service their debts, “The United States is the only country of the with their own central banks. Also, our AAA-rated countries that does not have a high government debt-to-GDP ratio still credible fiscal consolidation plan.” Sounds sits well below many other nations carrying serious! At the time, our government had even lower borrowing costs. While our to pay 1.65 percent interest on 10-year bond federal fiscal folly may prove threatening in issuance. Today they pay roughly the same, the long run, in the short run, based upon despite much higher debt-to-GDP ratios. market comparisons, it’s a non-issue. CEOs Shouldn’t more debt imply lower credituse strategic planning processes to avoid worthiness and higher rates? Apparently crisis; presidents use campaign seasons to not. The International Monetary Fund has respond to them. Fortunately, the insolvency cautioned that government debt-to-GDP of the USA is not in season … this season. • ratios above 60 percent invite instability and limit growth. Greece learned this lesson David S. Waddell is CEO of Waddell in 2012 as investors demanded 35 percent and Associates. He has appeared in The interest payments at 10-year bond auctions. Wall Street Journal, Forbes, By that point, Greece’s debt-to-GDP ratio Businessweek, and other resources. Visit stood at 160 percent, with double-digit waddellandassociates.com for more. deficits adding more. Post-EU bailout and

ILLUSTRATION BY NUVOLANEVICATA | DREAMSTIME

riority #1: Stay Solvent! Election year cycles thrust civic debates to the forefront and reveal national priorities. Immigration, healthcare, trade, climate change, education, and gun policies have all received raucous debate to date. This is as close to a strategic planning process as our federal government gets. Corporations go through strategic planning sessions frequently, rank priorities, and battleplan for achievement. While corporate priorities change for CEOs, one priority remains ever-present: Stay Solvent! And yet, little, if any, campaign copy for 2020’s federal strategic planning session addresses our nation’s fiscal fortitude, even as we run trillion-dollar deficits. Should solvency rank higher as a presidential priority?

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Inside Memphis Business

/ BANKING

The Banking of Tomorrow

It’s about tracking tech, savvy mergers, and keeping up with customer demands. BY ANDY MEEK

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f the Triumph Bank branch at 7550 West Farmington Boulevard is anything to go by, with its eye-catching 4-by-7-foot video wall and the hip-looking pods scattered throughout in lieu of a traditional “teller row,” the future of the banking industry is well underway. It’s no secret that banks are dealing with the same fundamental problem right now as many of their peers in industries that range from media to retail. Customers are loath to have to visit a physical location these days if they can help it. Whether ordering a new pair of jeans, buying a book, or completing simple financial transactions, they want to do as much as possible online and at their convenience. As for banking in particular, there are a number of other expectations nested like Russian dolls inside of that overarching desire for convenience. Fees, for example, should be kept to a minimum, if they even have to exist at all. And online services need to be mobile and smartphone friendly. It’s standard operating procedure for every major bank in Memphis, if not beyond — which brings us to

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY TRIUMPH BANK

1/22/20 4:12 PM

A sleek and modern look, such as this one at Triumph Bank’s Germantown branch, reflects changes in the business. New technology and the evolving needs of customers are prompting banks to adapt to changing expectations.

checked it out. She raved about the sight that Triumph Bank, and its sleek, ultra-modern greeted her when she stopped by. It was, he branch in Germantown. recalled her proudly declaring, “one of the If bank customers are doing as much as coolest things she’d ever seen.” possible online, what does that mean for the A space like this one, Chase explains, helps nagging legacy problem of, you know, actual Triumph better focus on the bread and butter bricks and mortar? Because customers may of banking as the world continues to change. want to do most things online — but not “I always go back to what I keep saying and everything. Imagine, for example, that you have said for years — when you go hunting, open up your banking app only to be greeted the job of the dog is to find the birds,” Chase with the shock of seeing a negative balance in tells Inside Memphis Business. “You don’t give your checking account, which you know for them a gun. And so, the idea that you’re going certain to be in error. You won’t simply dash to have these massive technology platforms off an inquiring email. You will very likely that will be all things to all customers — I stop what you’re doing and head to the neardon’t think that’s really going to be the case est bank branch to demand an explanation in banking.” without even giving the act of doing so a secIn a way, banking is actually one of the easond thought. iest industries to understand. To oversimplify, So banks feel compelled to offer the old the trick (if you’re a bank executive) is to earn and the new. Which is why the Triumph Germore in fees and the like, compared to the inmantown branch is so fascinating, because it terest you have to pay out to customers in exsuggests that when it comes to the future of change for their deposits. banking in Memphis, banks will increasingly The industry’s players range from small look like — well, perhaps not like a bank at all. It’s a compelling transformation to watch, community banks, like Triumph, which might because it’s somehave only a handful “The idea that thing like the one of branches in Memn ew s p ap e r s a r e phis (and perhaps beyou’re going trying to pull off — yond) and which rely to have these many of which have on loyal customers massive technology and a hyper-focus on given up on the “paper” part of their niche businesses and platforms that will identity entirely and products to amplify be all things to all shifted completely to their basic banking customers — I don’t services. At the highbecoming quasi-digita l enter pr ises . er end of the scale are think that’s really That’s a good startregional players like going to be the case the Memphis-based ing point to underin banking.” —Triumph Bank’s Will Chase stand what’s going bank that most of us on in today’s bankstill call First Tening world, where you can walk into a number nessee, although last year it changed its name of branches around Memphis and be greetto be in line with that of its parent entity, ed by sights that include decidedly modern First Horizon. touches. Such as “universal bankers,” which Then you have megabanks like Bank of are basically jack-of-all-trade, concierge-like America which have offices and branch loemployees like the gentleman seated at one cations and conduct a variety of business in of the Triumph Bank pods who rose to greet Memphis — but are based elsewhere. Execthis writer on a recent afternoon. He was utives from banking institutions like those — ready to handle almost any task that needed including BofA, Regions Bank and SunTrust to be done; otherwise he could hand it off to — have all insisted to this writer before, with a colleague. It almost makes you forget you’re slight variations in the wording, that the manin a bank. It’s certainly not the classic bank of tra by which they operate is to bring big-bank your parents with a stuffy old teller row and a resources to bear on local decision-making. But our focus in this story is to provide a roadline of employees sitting behind it with lines of map guide to the Memphis banking market, customers waiting their turns. which is quite idiosyncratic, with some caveats Triumph CEO Will Chase was especially that need to be stipulated right from the outset. pleased when that branch first opened a few The Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. is the years ago, and his 20-something daughter

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on Baptist Memorial Hospital campuses. A variety of locations and levels of build-out provide move-in ready suites, time-share space and the ability to build to suit. It’s your move.

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federal agency that guarantees the money you’ve deposited in your local bank, up to a standard limit per depositor of $250,000. Once a year, it produces a snapshot report detailing the market share of all the banks in every community (based on how much money customers have deposited with them), and while not definitive about the health of a market, it’s always a good place to start when analyzing a community’s banks. That report is posted on the FDIC’s website around October every year and includes data that’s current as of June 30th every year, and what the most recent report shows is the following: Almost 58 percent of the $31.8 billion in customer deposits in the Memphis MSA (the metropolitan statistical area that includes 10 counties in three states) is held by just four banks, only one of which (First Horizon) is local. The other three are Regions, SunTrust, and BofA, in that descending order — with First Horizon at the top as the biggest bank locally based on customer deposits. What the FDIC’s report shows is that every bank in the Memphis area which is not one of those four is competing for the single-digit percentages of market share that are left over. And this report doesn’t change too terribly much, in terms of the ranking, from one year to the next. There’s not a lot of organic growth happening in the market. What growth that does exist, banks are taking from each other, so that two banks with an 8 percent and 6 percent market share might change to 9 percent and 5 percent, respectively, the following year. In effect, it means competition among local banks amounts to what one executive told this

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BORN FROM writer is a kind of “guerrilla war,” all of them nipping constantly at each others’ heels. Which should provide some helpful context when you see Triumph open a branch like the one it’s got on Farmington. And note that plenty of others are trying this same tactic, Regions being a good example. Regions opened a new Lakeland branch in 2018 near Canada Road and U.S. 64 that looks more like an Apple store than a bank branch. It’s got an airy, open, sleek design with a large amount of glass on the exterior, and expensive-looking furniture and video screens throughout inside, along with Regions’ Video Banking ATMs. The latter are ATMs fitted out with a twoway video component, so that you can walk up and interact with a teller on the other side of the screen during daytime. When you talk to the chief executive of the biggest bank based in Memphis, meanwhile, technology is, no surprise, top of mind for CEO Bryan Jordan as well. To that end, last year saw considerable growth as well as the brand change from First Tennessee to First Horizon that reflects its presence beyond the Volunteer State. In November, First Horizon announced a merger with Louisiana-based Iberiabank with First Horizon keeping its name and head office of the combined entity in Memphis. Thanks to the customer deposits and other assets of Iberiabank, this deal will boost First Horizon’s size from $41 billion in assets to about $71 billion — and Jordan’s bank hasn’t stopped its recent growth ambitions there. Also in November, First Horizon announced a deal to acquire 30 SunTrust bank branches

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as a result of the latter’s merger with BB&T Bank, which included the need to divest a certain number of branches. “As far as SunTrust goes, we’ve made the application to the Federal Reserve on the SunTrust branches and we’re working on the conversion planning,” Jordan says. “That in all likelihood is going to happen in the April-May time frame. The process with Iberiabank is still contingent on regulator and shareholder approvals. We expect all of that to occur sometime in the second quarter, so that process will take a little bit more time — but we’re doing as much high-level planning and systems decision discussion as we can.” Other recent changes at First Horizon include new consumer checking products announced in December that allow the ability to

choose a savings account at no extra charge along with each product. Other benefits include premium interest on checking balances, and additional bonus interest to encourage the customer’s longevity with the bank. When the First Horizon-Iberiabank merger was announced, Iberiabank president and CEO Daryl Byrd said it would allow both companies the opportunity to expand their capacity to lend money, in addition to invest in advanced financial services technology — something that Jordan expounded on in an interview with Inside Memphis Business. “There’s a tremendous amount of change going on in terms of customers’ expectations in how they want to bank and we need to be responsive to that,” Jordan says, adding, somewhat counterintuitively, that when it comes to technology, “I would stipulate that nobody can really win a spending race. What this merger allows us to do is to capitalize on scale to expand or broaden the playing field from a technology perspective. The way it’s easiest for me to think about it is, to the extent a [company like] Venmo or Square changes something in payments — whether the payment is business to business or business to person or person to person — and we have to go out and change our online banking site and Iberiabank has to do the same thing, we’d each spend $3 million to $5 million to get that done.”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY FIRST HORIZON

“Our people differentiate us, because they take the technology and products and services, and they use that to build broad, deep relationships with their customers that are enduring through the years.” —First Horizon’s Bryan Jordan

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Together, though, Jordan says the combined entity would still pay $3 million to $5 million to make changes to its own systems and technologies in response to broader trends, but it can then use the $3 million to $5 million that the other company would have spent pre-merger and “expand or broaden the playing field, from a technology perspective.” What he’s essentially saying is a bank can’t really build a sustainable competitive advantage in technology. Mostly because that’s the kind of thing that’s easily replicated in a commodity-based world. The trick is to use technology to help acquire and retain customers. It’s unlikely a customer would leave a bank that offers an array of technology options to facilitate a consumer’s banking needs, plus a robust branch network with an inviting customer experience inside, for a small bank that might only have one or two of those conveniences. “Tech is a part of it. I wouldn’t discount it, but I think by far the thing that differentiates us is the ability to take the tools of technology — to take product functions and features and package that in a way that is valuable and builds a relationship,” Jordan says. “Our people differentiate us, because they take the technology and products and services, and they use that to build broad, deep relationships with their customers that are enduring through the years.” Memphis banks, in other words, find themselves at the dawn of a new decade in much the same place they were in at the conclusion of the one that just ended. The basics are still the same — acquire customers, entice them to park deposits with you, extend loans to other customers, make money from everyone through fees and other costs. It’s just that the stakes keep getting higher. Perks like technology services and features, as well as the creature comforts of the in-branch experience, provide a bit of a shortcut in terms of acquiring and retaining customers. Beyond that, banks have to run a ground game that never ends, encompassing everything from making sure customers have as friction-free of an experience as possible to keeping the products and offerings in a bank’s menu from getting too stale. There is a hope that the economy will remain relatively solid, providing banks in Memphis and beyond with customers who have correspondingly decent personal balance sheets. “I think loan and deposit growth and customer activity will continue to be good in 2020,” Jordan says. “And I see no reason why it shouldn’t continue to be strong as we go into 2021. Consumers are in a place where they have better balance sheets, they have growing earnings, unemployment is down, and employment is up. When you have the consumer in a strong position, that drives 70 percent of your economy, and you’re generally going to do pretty well.” •

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Biz 901

/ THE OFFICE

Willie Gregory

CH A I R M A N, GR E AT ER M EM PH IS CH A M BER S E N I O R D I R E C T O R O F G L O B A L C O M M U N I T Y I M PA C T , N I K E

When it comes to boosting Memphis’ economy, Willie Gregory is ready to play ball. BY SAMUEL X. CICCI

T HAN KS TO T H E S P O N S O R O F THE OFFICE

N O VAT E C H . C O M

illie Gregory’s office at Nike is home to several golf clubs and baseball bats. Some are for practical use, while others are mementos from various fundraising events. Look around a bit and you’ll see more sporting paraphernalia, including basketball and football gear. But the implements aren’t all for show; Gregory can play each of those sports. And considering his balancing act between positions at Nike and the Greater Memphis Chamber, his multitalented approach could be a major boon to the City of Memphis.

A Memphis native, Gregory came to Nike from IBM in 1993. After almost three decades of service with one of America’s largest sporting apparel businesses under his belt, Gregory now splits time between his roles for Nike and the Chamber. “I’d say I spend about 40 percent of my day

dealing with the Chamber,” says Gregory. “The other 60 percent is my daytime job to pay the bills with Nike.” Juggling two positions is a familiar exercise as he had already been serving as vice chairman at the Chamber before FedEx’s Richard Smith reached the end of his term in 2019. Even

with such a hefty workload, he always makes time to get in a workout at one of Nike’s on-site exercise facilities, whether it’s lifting weights, a spin class, or just shooting hoops. Looking ahead to 2020 and beyond, “collaboration” is the key word for Gregory’s strategy as chairman. “First and foremost, I’d like to collaborate with the corporations and companies who are our clients at the Chamber to get talent. I certainly believe if we get the talent, we’ll get the companies. If the companies come, so grows the Chamber. If the Chamber grows, so grows the

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

Willie Gregory

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city and the opportunities that we’ll have for our young people coming up.” The Chamber, along with the Downtown Memphis Commission (DMC) and the Economic Development Growth Engine (EDGE) for Memphis and Shelby County, recently released their shared economic goals for 2020. They include 68 development projects, $1.1 billion in capital investment, $109 million in Minority and Women-Owned Business Enterprises (MWBE) spending, and the creation of 3,800 jobs. Those goals reflect Gregory’s optimism for Memphis. “If you look around, you can judge the success for a lot of cities by the number of cranes that are in the city,” he says. “The number of cranes and buildings here have increased and will increase going forward, because the Chamber is doing a great job of attracting businesses to Memphis.” When examining Gregory’s history with Nike, it’s hard to argue with those numbers. FedEx is what initially drew Nike to setting up shop here in 1982, and the latter’s continued collaboration with the Chamber resulted in

the corporation becoming the largest occupier of supply chain space in Memphis. In addition to the original Nike Distribution Center on Lamar., a few years ago the Portland, Oregon-based company opened a 2.8-million-squarefoot North American Logistics Campus in Frayser – its biggest worldwide distribution center, which created thousands of jobs. The new distribution center was remarkable not just for the sheer scale, but for the fact that a large corporation set up shop in an area that other businesses had been hesitant to enter. While Downtown is seeing a huge development boom, it’s important that other sectors of the city aren’t neglected. “That’s something that I’m asking all companies to do: Make an investment in these areas of Memphis,” Gregory says. “It’s proven to be good for us so far. And you can see that another huge company, Amazon, set up shop in the Raleigh-Frayser area as well.” With collaboration at the forefront of his strategy, it’s not surprising that Gregory is quick to give credit to others who have

helped lift Memphis. “The late Phil Trenary started a great movement,” he says. “Beverly Robertson has picked it up. The chairman that I replaced, Richard Smith, has done and is still doing a tremendous job in putting Memphis in the forefront of opportunities for companies to come and invest in our city.” Memphis government officials’ and large company representatives’ willingness to work together is crucial for both short- and long-term growth. “It’s a three-pronged approach,” says Gregory. “It’s educational, it’s corporate, and it’s government, to put everything in motion so that we can accommodate the companies that are going to come here.”

clockwise from above: Oscar Robertson Basketball: When Nike first made plans to build in Memphis, former NBA player Oscar Robertson visited the site with his construction company and signed a ball for Gregory. Win As A Team Poster: The Nike poster, featuring three stars from the Seleção (Brazilian Men’s National Soccer Team), hangs just outside Gregory’s office. He has adopted “Win As A Team” as his personal mantra, which ties in perfectly with his effort to “collaborate” as chairman. Photo Collage: During almost three decades at Nike, Gregory has rubbed shoulders with many notable athletes and public figures. The framed collage is just one of many sets of framed photographs dotting his office that track his time in the sports world.

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Inside Story /

SMART BUSINESS

Chasing Talent

Nurture the workforce we have and focus policy on people, not real estate.

development,” ranked the 50 largest regions to show the connection between college degrees and incomes. Memphis was in the bottom five. Dr. David Ciscel, economist emeritus at the University of Memphis, suggests that we ambitiously predicts that the When the PILOT (paymentlack confidence in Memphis city’s growth will increase by in-lieu-of-taxes) program was workers, and as a result, there 10 percent in 30 years (although established more than 20 years has been a disproportionate the population has remained the ago, it was with the idea that reliance on TDL (transsame for the past 50 years — and our community would have to portation, distribution, and that was the result of aggressive give up taxes in the near term logistics). “The labor force gets annexation). The Downtown to buy time to build a workforce better when the jobs get better, Memphis Commission claims that could compete for the jobs and workers will rise to the that Downtown will need of the future. However, $800 occasion,” he says. 10,000 more apartments in the million later, more often than “While there are exceptions next decade. not, EDGE tax breaks have done to the rule, we tend to develop All in all, it suggests the little to create the workforce new jobs that do not of tomorrow — one that demand technical training is competitive with other or university/college major cities for technology educations. I know that and innovation-driven jobs. new employers want a In those same 20 years, ready-made workforce. our community has not had That is why most new good a sustained plan to transijobs go to the places where tion our community from there are already a lot of low-wage to higher value good jobs — so the new jobs, much less develop the employer can hire trained workers for those kinds workers from the old of jobs. employers.” Ultimately, it requires That’s why the most economic development successful cities have largely policy — and tax breaks turned from smokestack — that are not focused on real estate, but people. As a “Research has always shown that local chasing to chasing talent; however, only about 15 Brookings Institution report economies develop only if their people regions are soaking up the said: “Research has always do first.” — Brookings Institute gold standard of today’s shown that local economies economy: millennial, develop only if their people college-educated workers. current momentum and growing do first.” The Memphis region is not self-confidence can be leveraged In the midst of today’s exciting one of them. to address the underlying momentum, there are structural While other cities are fighting structural issues, particularly the challenges. Our regional GDP, for college-educated workers, need to increase the numbers of when adjusted for inflation, Cortright said in a speech to college-educated people. remains $3 billion less than it New Memphis Institute a few That’s because 60 percent was before the Great Recession. years ago that Shelby County of a city’s economic success Between 2010 and 2017, almost has distinctive competitive comes from its percentage of 31,000 more people — an advantages — if it can take college-educated workers, says average of 10 a day — moved advantage of them. urban economist Joe Cortright, away from the Memphis metro When compared to other but the Memphis region area than moved in, ranking it major places, we have a higher ranks low. To underscore the sixth among major metros in percentage of the population fact, Brookings, in its report out-migration. who are children and people about “talent-driven economic And yet, Memphis 3.0 edEx executives said they can’t find the 1,200 workers needed at the package sorting hub and Nike said it needs 1,000 more distribution employees but can’t find them. The comments were ominous, raising the core question: if our community can’t fill these kinds of jobs, how does it compete for jobs that pay more and require higher skills?

who have some college credit but no degree. In other words, while some places are looking outward for talent, we should look inward because our potential talent is in Shelby County classrooms today and in the group of people who have some college credit. They account for a remarkable 44 percent of Shelby County’s population — 233,005 who are younger than 18 years old and 181,520 who attended college but never graduated. In large measure, Shelby County’s future economic success will be defined by our ability to get them on pathways to receive college degrees. Although we will have made progress when companies like FedEx and Nike have as many hub and distribution workers as they need, ultimately, long-term success will come when our community recognizes and takes action with people often undervalued today, because they have the potential to become magnets for better jobs and higher incomes. Most of all, it requires economic development policy — and tax breaks — that are not focused on real estate, but people. As Brookings said in its recent research, “Human capabilities are worth approximately 10 times the value of its urban land.” That’s why economic development organizations “must evolve their value proposition to the most pressing concern of existing or potential businesses: workforce quality.” • Tom Jones leads Smart City Consulting and is the primary author of the Smart City Memphis blog, recognized by the Pew Partnership for Civic Change as “one of the most engaging” civic-minded blogs in the United States. You can reach him at tjones@smartcityconsulting.com.

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PRESENTS

AWARDS

BREAKFAST 2020 presented by

Thursday, February 20, 2020 at 7:30 a.m. at Memphis Botanic Garden, Hardin Hall 750 Cherry Road • Memphis, TN 38117

Memphis is graced with tremendously talented, inspiring executives in charge of their companies and organizations and these exceptional leaders are setting standards of success in healthcare, banking, and construction. Join us Thursday, February 20, 2020, as we honor: • Dr. James Downing of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in the 1000+ employees category • George Hernandez of Campbell Clinic (200-1000 employees) • William J. “Will” Chase, Jr. of Triumph Bank (50-200 employees) • Briggette Green of TopCat Masonry Contractors, LLC (up to 50 employees) Our awards breakfast will honor the four CEOs and will include remarks by Jack Soden of Elvis Presley Enterprises, one of the winners from last year. The presenting sponsor of CEO of the Year is eBiz Solutions. Tickets are available for purchase for $25 per person and include breakfast. Tables of 10 are available for $200, a savings of 20 percent. Doors open at 7:30 a.m. and the program will begin promptly at 8 a.m. Purchase your tickets today at bit.ly/ceo2020.

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2019Top Dentists

WE SAW YOU

Top Dentists Reception

We inadvertently left the following dentists out of our December issue. We apologize for this oversight and congratulate all included in the list.

m e rc e de s -b e n z of m e m p h i s dec e m b e r 3 , 2 019

with michael donahue

entists from the Memphis metropolitan area who were chosen as the 2019 topDentists were honored at a special reception sponsored by Triumph Bank. The 2019 topDentists list is a database that includes listings for almost 125 local dentists and specialists. The Memphis list is based on thousands of detailed peer evaluations of dentists and professionals. “If you had a patient in need of a dentist, which dentist would you refer them to?” is among the questions asked to determine who makes the topDentists list. An added bonus for the honorees was the chance to eat sweets in public at the buffet table without any burden of guilt.

PERIODONTICS

LES H. BINKLEY, JR. Periodontal, Laser & Implant Clinic of Memphis 5866 Ridge Bend Road, Suite 1 Memphis, TN 38120 901-761-6177 ROGER D. CRADDOCK Periodontal Associates of Memphis 6268 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119 901-300-4162 periomem.com MITCHEL S. GODAT Periodontal Associates of Memphis 6268 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119 901-300-4162 perioMem.com ANASTASIOS KARYDIS University of Tennessee College of Dentistry 875 Union Avenue Memphis, TN 38163 901-448-6242 uthsc.edu/dentistry EDWARD S. LANE II Memphis Periodontal Group 5565 Murray Road, Suite 101 Memphis, TN 38119 901-767-8152 memphisperiodontal.com MICHAEL L. THOMPSON Thompson Periodontics & Implant Dentistry 2737 Paula Drive Jonesboro, AR 72404 870-932-0015 thompsonperioandimplants.com J. STEPHEN WEIR 5348 Estate Ofﬁce Drive, Suite 1 Memphis, TN 38119 901-763-4700 jstephenweirdds.com

PROSTHODONTICS

1 Dr. Jeff Kalmowicz 2 Dr. Scott Edwards, Hollis Haymon, Triumph Bank president Will Chase 3 Dwight and Dr. Elizabeth Lee, Dr. Orpheus Triplett 4 Kathy Caldwell, Kelli DeWitt, Dr. Robert Caldwell, 5 Dr. Meade Moore, Annell Savage, Colby Midgett

DAVID R. CAGNA University of Tennessee College of Dentistry 875 Union Avenue Memphis, TN 38163 901-448-6930 uthsc.edu/dentistry/Grad/Pros MARC A. COHEN Prostho Dental 5356 Estate Ofﬁce Drive, Suite 1 Memphis, TN 38119 901-680-0823 mcohendds.com WILLIAM R. PRIESTER III 5866 Ridge Bend Road, Suite 1 Memphis, TN 38120 901-767-8759 CARL W. SCHULTER Dental Implant Aesthetic Center 795 Ridge Lake Boulevard, Suite 101 Memphis, TN 38120 901-682-5001 dentalimplantac.com F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 83

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ASK VANCE

Royal Lichtenstein Circus Our trivia expert solves local mysteries of who, what, when, where, why, and why not. Well, sometimes.

by vance lauderdale

both pages: The Royal Lichtenstein Quarter-Ring Circus performed at thenMemphis State University in 1973. Nick Weber, ringmaster and Jesuit priest, is the fellow with the red hair and beard.

DEAR G.L.: On a rare visit to the campus during this time,

I also witnessed this bizarre spectacle and snapped the pictures you see here. A troupe of magicians, jugglers, and mimes — all wearing outlandish costumes and accompanied by a monkey — drew a crowd to their makeshift production, which lasted only an hour. Then the group quickly dismantled their equipment and moved on to the next booking. The Royal Lichtenstein Quarter-Ring Circus, a name chosen so you would remember it, and many still do — crisscrossed North America for more than 22 years, making stops at churches, schools, shopping centers, festivals, company picnics, and just about any place they could draw a crowd. The merry ringmaster of this ragtag bunch was a largely self-taught actor, singer, magician, mime, escape artist, and animal trainer from California named Nicholas J. Weber. Oh, and he just happened to be a Jesuit priest. In fact, the entire venture was an official ministry of the California Province of the Society of Jesus. I know this because the Lauderdale Library contains a rare copy of Weber’s 2012 autobiography, The Circus That Ran Away with a Jesuit Priest. His life story is, perhaps, even more remarkable than mine. He certainly never set out to run “the world’s smallest circus,” funded only by donations, handouts, and “passing the hat” after each performance, but it made him a national celebrity. Born in 1939, Weber could have enjoyed an easy life in his hometown of Yuba City, California, since his family owned the Pabst Blue Ribbon beer distributorship. As a young boy he had three encounters that would impact his entire life. First, the family attended St. Joseph’s Catholic Church, an impressive stone edifice, where Weber was fascinated by the elaborate religious rituals

PHOTOGRAPHS BY VANCE LAUDERDALE

DEAR VANCE: When I attended Memphis State in the 1970s, almost every year a small circus put on a show outside the student center. Who were these performers, and what happened to them? — g.l., memphis.

that took place inside. Next came a visit to town by the Cole Brothers Circus, and he never forgot the sights and sounds of the Big Top. Finally, he had boyhood friends who were amateur magicians, and trips to a magic store emptied his pockets as he bought, practiced, and perfected the newest tricks and illusions. At an early age, then, Weber began to think of a way to meld the dramatic elements of performance, spectacle, magic, ritual, and yes, religion, of all three worlds. Despite his family’s misgivings, he decided to join the Society of Jesus — better known as the Jesuits — and earned a bachelor’s degree in theology from Mount St. Michael’s in Spokane, Washington. He later earned a master’s from the Jesuit School of Theology at Berkeley, California. The entire spiritual journey from student to novitiate to Jesuit priest is far too complex to go into here — after all, you want me to tell you about the circus, right? — so I encourage you to read Weber’s book. We’ll skip ahead a few years, to 1969, when Weber approached church leaders about an outreach program he had conceived. After all, one goal of the Jesuits was education, and Weber had the notion that parables could be conveyed under the guise of entertainment. He had already experimented with an outdoor act he called “Sam’s Sidewalk Show,” afterwards speaking to the small crowds who gathered to watch his magic acts. Weber attained the priesthood in 1970 and didn’t waste any time expanding his vision. With two or three other performers, he took to the road, at first visiting shopping centers and Native American reservations, and calling their group the Council Players. Within a few months, they adopted the far more colorful name of the Royal Lichtenstein Quarter-Ring Sidewalk Circus and Traveling Taxidermy Show, usually shortened to the Royal Lichtenstein Circus. Initially working along the West Coast, the circus — with all their props, animals, costumes, and other gear crammed into a Dodge van — began to venture eastward. Weber and his ever-changing cast of assistants, drawn from carnival professionals and amateurs with a knack for unicycle stunts or fire-eating, set up on college campuses. There they had the best chance

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monkey — well, that just made it all the better. The circus performers stayed on the road nine months out of the year, returning to their home base in California to rest, repair the sets and costumes, audition of reaching a young and attentive audience, seeking an new players, and develop new acts. One year, Weber hour’s entertainment between classes. estimated they had journeyed some 14,000 miles, often staying at the homes of friends and fellow Jesuits, and As a result, Weber says, “I went to Yale for five getting food wherever they could find it. years, then Princeton, Cornell, UCLA, Emory, LSU, and Stanford. I never graduated from As you might imagine, the any of them because I couldn’t stay long years began to take a toll. “By the At an early age, Weber enough, but I reaped the treasure of a mid-Eighties, I knew I was tired in began to think of a way priceless education.” the ring,” he writes. What’s more, auto meld the dramatic His book makes no mention of how diences were changing, demanding many times he visited Memphis, or more sophisticated entertainment elements of performance, where his circus performed here. My than an old-timey circus, and Weber spectacle, magic, ritual, notes there was “an attitude change friends — yes, I have a few, even now on campuses as well. The looser, lei— recall shows at what were then Memand yes, religion. phis State University and Southwestern sure-oriented dimension that had at Memphis, as well as performances at the Germanlong been part of college life was evolving, and our town Festival, when it was held in “The Pines” (now the favorite audiences were thinning out.” site of Methodist Le Bonheur Hospital). What really brought the curtain down, however, was Along the way, the circus added quite a menagerie to the Catholic Church, whose leaders concluded that their act: a spider monkey named Penelope, a miniature horse named Othello, a black bear cub, and other creatures. A typical show, writes Weber, “was 55 minutes of rapid-fire entertainment that is a hybrid of theater and the rarified repertoire of circus. It is a seamless parade of juggling, balancing, parables, and acrobatics that only a trained ensemble of men, monkeys, a prancing horse, and a waltzing bear can muster.” A typical way to open the show went something like this: “Move right in close, folks! This is the chance of a lifetime! A completely chaotic collection of compulsive capers, a cavalcade of chuckle-coaxers confected with the care and cunning calibrated to quell coronaries and quicken curiosity!” spreading the word of God in a circus just wouldn’t do. As you might imagine, such an unusual venture In 1985, in fact, the Los Angeles Archdiocese issued a bulletin, specifically titled, “The Ministry of Clowns Is began to attract national attention. The San Francisco Not Appropriate to Liturgical Worship.” Chronicle noted the “spellbound crowds” that attended Weber reluctantly sold the trained animals to a prithe shows. Time magazine called the troupe “an amiable vate zoo in Florida, after making one final cross-counblend of circus acts and low-key morality plays.” The chaplain of Yale University said the whole thing was try tour. The last performance of the Royal Lichtenstein “a marvel, full of joy and good humor, raising just the Circus took place at a KOA campground outside Wilright kind of gentle havoc.” liamsburg, Virginia, in the summer of 1993. “The Royal Lichtenstein Circus characterized itself The ringmaster moved to Milwaukee, where I preas a circus that talked to you,” writes Weber. “How it sume he is still living in retirement. In his book, Weber talked! What the audiences heard from us could be mentions he closed each show in this way: “And before we say goodbye, may we ask a very special favor? Behumor, magician’s patter, conventional announcements, dramatic narrative, poetry, and sometimes — from fore you fall asleep tonight, would you spend two or me — outright social commentary. It wouldn’t be too three minutes just trying to — imagine — this whole much of a stretch to say that a student seated at our world at peace? Take care of one another, and thank show might think it was the most colorful lecture on you very much.” campus that day.” Memphis was lucky that Nicholas J. Weber, S.J., The fact that this lecture came from a clown, perched brought his little circus here. Having witnessed it myself, I’ll say it was certainly a hard act to follow. on a tightrope, while juggling and holding a chattering

Got a question for vance?

EMAIL: askvance@memphismagazine.com MAIL: Vance Lauderdale, Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38103 ONLINE: memphismagazine. com/ask-vance

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GM Jason Burgardt describes the restaurant’s unique savory sorbets, served as enhancements to oysters on the half shell, as a “happy accident” when chefs experimented with a Pacojet sorbet-making machine. Also pictured above: Maine lobster, the restaurant’s patio view, ﬂash-fried cheesecake with strawberry coulis, and executive chef Ryan Gall.

Tidbits: Coastal Fish Company marries seafood and sunsets.

iming is everything at Coastal Fish Company, which is why we arrive early for cocktails at the bar. We pick stools with views of a kitchen station, where cooks prep for a busy dinner service soon to come, and of Hyde Lake. The lake vista is central to the restaurant, a clarion call to notice the afternoon as it slips toward a sunset edged in pink and gold. Intuitively, my husband and I order drinks that mimic the colors of the late winter sky. For him, a Paloma, expertly mixed with briny Reposado tequila, fresh-squeezed juices (grapefruit and lime) and a bubbly splash of Topo Chico. For me, a Coastal 75, a serious cocktail of vodka and gin softened by wild berry cordial, served in a champagne flute. We sip, chat, and notice how the sunlight filters through the restaurant’s incandescent window blinds when, as if on cue, they rise up like a theater curtain. It’s two minutes before sunset, says general manager Jason Burgardt, and the theatrics happen every

night. “We don’t want our guests to miss a moment of sunset,” he says. Burgardt describes the restaurant’s new blinds, lighting, f loors, and furniture as a “quick polish” of a beautiful space mostly unchanged since Kimbal Musk’s The Kitchen closed about a year ago. However, the menu — a manifesto for seafood lovers — is radically different, featuring fish, shellfish, and oysters sourced from around the world. Freshness and quality matter most. “We have Hawaiian tuna, New Orleans red fish, sea bass from France,” says executive chef Ryan Gall. “We wanted to create a menu open to everyone and let the fish speak for itself.” Owners Russ Graham and Tom Powers, natives of New Orleans and southern Florida, have established strong relationships with seafood suppliers through Flight, Southern Social, and the soon-to-open Porch & Parlor, their other local restaurants. Specific dishes reflect the collaboration between

Gall, culinary director Ashton Hall, and corporate executive chef Eduardo Murillo, and their passion shows: shrimp diavolo cloaked in Louisiana cream sauce and served with crispy French bread slices; macadamia nut-encrusted tuna with coconut sauce; and fat jumbo lump crab cakes with cream corn brûlée and asparagus plated alongside. Oysters from up and down the coast abound on the menu, as well. (Oh, happy day!) Order Gulf oysters broiled in a woodfired oven five different ways. Or eat oysters on the half shell with extras like vodka and caviar. My favorite is the Hong Kong — oyster, tuna, truffle, and ponzu sauce — with a dab of apple wasabi sorbet. “The sorbets, we have six, really play with your mind,” Gall says. “You think they will be cold and sweet, but when you taste them, they are cold and savory.” 415 Great View Drive East in Cordova (901266-9000). $$-$$$

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

by pamela denney

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the

MEMPHIS DINING guide

THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a 6324. D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$. GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional service to our readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directofavorites like spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled ry does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s dolmathes, as well as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a group that is updated every August. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. L, D, X, $ Establishments open less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as “New.” This GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, guide also includes a representative sampling of other Bluff City eating establishments. No along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. fast-food facilities or cafeterias are listed. Restaurants are included regardless of whether they Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. advertise in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multiple locations are listed under the Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 7672323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028. L, D, X, MRA, $ neighborhood of their original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we recommend HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimithat you call ahead to check on hours, prices, and other details. Suggestions from readers are changas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. welcome; please contact us at dining@memphismagazine.com. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HU. DINER—An extension of Hu. Hotel, diner serves such pasta, and several Northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The dishes as country-fried cauliflower, cornflake-fried chicken, and Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$$ CENTER CITY octopus and grits. 3 S. Main. 333-1224. L, D, X, $-$$ CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with superb city views serves 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with teamed up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional including fried green tomatoes with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced American steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a DINING SYMBOLS smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, variety of surf and turf options. 117 Union. 433-9851. L, D, WB, chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. and almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and X, $-$$$ B — breakfast Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. boiled peanut hummus. 79 Madison. 3RD & COURT—The latest from Ryan Trimm and 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$ L — lunch 333-1229. D, $ Across the Board Hospitality is a retro diner with an CATHERINE & D — dinner HUEY’S—This family-friendly upscale twist. Includes a three-meat meatloaf and MARY’S—A variety of SB — Sunday brunch restaurant offers 13 different pound cake French toast. 24 N. B.B. King. 290-8484. B, L, D, X, pastas, grilled quail, pâté, burgers, a variety of sandwiches, WB — weekend brunch WB, $-$$ razor clams, and monkfish are among and delicious soups and salads. 1927 X — wheelchair accessible ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas the dishes served at this Italian restauMadison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown MRA — member, Memphis — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 rant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second. beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Restaurant Association 8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ 527-2700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ $ — under $15 per person without CHEZ PHILIPPE— 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd. (Southaven). THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe. Classical/contemporary French drinks or desserts 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried cuisine presented in a luxuri$$ — under $25 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast ous atmosphere with a seasonal menu Blvd. (Germantown). 318-3030; 8570 $$$ — $26-$50 served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, focused on local/regional cuisine. The Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, $$$$ — over $50 MRA, $ crown jewel of The Peabody for 35 X, MRA, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite years. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., HUSTLE & DOUGH BAKERY & CAFE—Flaky, specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.-Tues. The baked breakfast goodness every day with fresh pastries, ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ sandwiches, and more at Arrive Hotel. 477 S. Main St., L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sand701-7577. B, L, X, $ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian wiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s banana pudding. Closed Mon. 745 N. Parkway and here; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily Manassas. 527-9158. L, D, $ with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, DIRTY CROW INN—Serving elevated bar food, including X, MRA, $$-$$$ $-$$ poutine fries, fried catfish, and the Chicken Debris, a sandwich KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleowith smoked chicken, melted cheddar, and gravy. 855 including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. centric restaurant offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine X, MRA, $-$$$ Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X, $ and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomadaily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $ FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle toes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ BISHOP—Ticer and Hudman’s newest venture at the bowls, sushi rolls, and spring rolls. Closed Sun. 149 Madison. LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include Central Station Hotel features upscale dishes in a French 701-6666. L, D, X, $ lobster mac-and-cheese and ribeye patty melt; menu differs by brasserie style. 545 S. Main St., 524-5247. L, D, X, $$-$$$ FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 725-1845. L, D, WB, BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using X, $-$$ global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian are a 14-oz. bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork Third, in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, downtown staple at Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1. 523tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. WB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ 0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$ BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE— FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Serves Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined with seasonally changing menu; also a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. (whole or by the slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson. chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/291-8200. L, D, X 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$ 522-2033. L, D, X, $ $-$$$ BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR— LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited cuisine includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include Citrus shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison. as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with Glaze Salmon and Cajun Stuffed Chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel 572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$ appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, paninis, salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ more. Downtown closed Sun. 45 S. Main. 526-0037, X, prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), MRA, $

a cur ated guide to eating out

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D (This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Housed in a former silent-picture house, features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theatre menu and classic cocktails. Wellstocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S—Southern/American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib-eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-8902467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union. 208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views. River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main. 522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC LOUNGE—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as alligator filet fritters; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeño cornbread and tagliatelle with braised beef. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, X, $-$$ PUCK FOOD HALL—Food hall featuring a variety of vendors serving everything from bagels and beer to comfort food and healthy cuisine. 409 S. Main. 341-3838. $-$$ REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po’boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’—Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads. Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and lamb belly tacos are menu items at this upscale diner. Michael Patrick is among the city’s best chefs. 492 S. Main. 304-6985. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SLEEP OUT LOUIE’S—Oyster bar with such specialties as char-grilled Roquefort oysters and gulf oysters on the half shell with Prosecco mignonette; also serves flatbread pizzas and a variety of sandwiches. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 707-7180. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SPINDINI—Italian fusion cuisine with such entrees as woodfired pizzas, Gorgonzola-stuffed filet, and fresh seafood; large domestic whiskey selection. 383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, X, $$-$$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—From owners of Sweet Grass and Central BBQ. Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, MRA, $ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders, chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ UNCLE BUCK’S FISHBOWL & GRILL—Burgers, pizza, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique

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“underwater” setting. Bass Pro, Bass Pro Drive, 291-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278.L, D, X, $

STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

COLLIERVILLE

BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ COASTAL FISH COMPANY—Upscale offerings of international fish varieties utilizing styles ranging from Carribbean, East Coast, West Coast, Chinese, to Filipino, and more. 415 Great View Dr. E., Suite 101. 266-9000. D, X, $$-$$$ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway #104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ COMPANY—Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.” 465 N. Germantown Pkwy. #116. 509-2360. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998. L, D, X, $-$$ EL MERO TACO—This food truck turned restaurant serves up Mexican and Southern-style fusion dishes, including fried chicken tacos, chorizo con papas tacos, and brisket quesadillas. 8100 Macon Station, Suite 102. 308-1661. Closed Sun.-Mon. L, D, WB, X, $ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves a variety of Pan-Asian cuisine, including Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Thai. Noodle and rice bowls are specialties; a small plates menu also offered. 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, X, $-$$ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy. 443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

CAFE EUROPE—From Italian chef Michele D’oto, the French, Spanish, and Italian fusion cuisine includes a variety of dishes like Rosette al Forno, fish ceviche, and sole meuniere. Closed Sun. 4610 Merchants Park Circle, Suite 571. 286-4199. L, D, X, $$-$$$$ CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457. L, D, X, $ COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with ParmigianoReggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch). 662890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing. 850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrees as pork tenderloin, several seafood specialties, and hand-cut charcoal-grilled steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$  OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining. Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-8909312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southern-inspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Monday. 120 E. Mulberry. 286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ SEAR SHACK BURGERS & FRIES—Serving Angus burgers, fries, and hand-spun milkshakes. Closed Mon. 875 W. Poplar, Suite 6. 861-4100; 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 103. 567-4909 ; 7424 Stage Road, Suite 121 (Bartlett). 382-3083; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-408-4932; 427 E. Commerce (Hernando). 662-469-4114. L, D, X, $

CORDOVA

EAST MEMPHIS

(INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins. 818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Cl. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122. B, L, WB, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and

duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake Blvd. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BLUE PLATE CAFÉ—For breakfast, the café’s serves old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes (it’s a secret recipe!), country ham and eggs, and waffles with fresh strawberries and cream. For lunch, the café specializes in country cooking. 5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. B, L, X, $ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here. Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar. 683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available. 5030 Poplar. 725-8557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 4255908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. B, L, D, X, $ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch. 662893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ ERLING JENSEN—For over 20 years, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wetaged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA & GRILL—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 1769 N. Germantown Pkwy. 7586500. L, D, X, $ FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900. L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 89

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Love Never Dies The Ceruti String Quartet performs Samuel Barber’s Quartet in B minor, which includes his famous Adagio for Strings. They are then joined by virtuoso pianist Michael Gurt in Robert Schumann’s Piano Quintet, a pillar of Romantic chamber music. JOIN US

SUNDAY FEBRUARY 16,

3:00PM at

2020

1325 LAMAR AVENUE Memphis, TN 38104 FOR TICKET INFORMATION AND DIRECTIONS CALL 901.758.0150 MEMPHISCHAMBERMUSIC.ORG

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THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with Southern and global influences; entrees include crab cakes, and shrimp and grits, also dinner specials. Founder Jeff Dunham’s son Chip is now chef de cuisine. 4550 Poplar. 818-9951. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as king crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves a variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip. Farmous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine with emphasis on local foods and fresh fish; daily chef specials. Closed for lunch Sat. 5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105. 818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 8002656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LISA’S LUNCHBOX—Serving bagels, sandwiches, salads, and wraps. 5885 Ridgeway Center Pkwy. 767-6465; 2650 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Suite 1200; 730-0064; 6070 Poplar. 2335875; 50 N. Front. 574-0468. B, L, $ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 572-1803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $- $$$ MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel-hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. 780 Brookhaven Cl. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$  DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees; also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-1211; 9155 Poplar, Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $  NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties are miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—The Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Seasonal menu features sandwiches, like rustic chicken salad on croissant, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven; wide choice of toppings; large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ RED HOOK CAJUN SEAFOOD & BAR—Cajunstyle array of seafood including shrimp, mussels, clams, crawfish, and oysters. 3295 Poplar. 207-1960. L, D, X, $-$$ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar #122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952. L, D, X, $$-$$$ STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951. B, L, WB, X, $ STRANO BY CHEF JOSH—Presenting a Sicilian/ Mediterranean mix of Arab, Spanish, Greek, and North African fare, Strano serves hand-tossed pizzas, wood-grilled fish, and such entrees as Chicken Under the Earth, cooked under a Himalayan salt block over a seasoned white oak wood-fired grill. 518 Perkins Extd. 275-8986. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ SUSHI JIMMI—This food truck turned restaurant serves a variety of sushi rolls, fusion dishes — such as kimchi fries — and sushi burritos. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Mon. 2895 Poplar. 729-6985. L, D, X, $

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SWANKY’S TACO SHOP—Taco-centric eatery offers tortas, flatbreads, quesadillas, chimichangas, burgers, and more. 4770 Poplar. 730-0763; 6641 Poplar (Germantown). 7372088; 272 S. Main. 779-3499. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527; 4183 Summer. 3244325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes. 323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online. L, D, X, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAKA BOWL—This vegan-friendly restaurant serves buildyour-own vegetable bowls featuring ingredients such as agave Brussels sprouts and roasted beets. Also serves tuna poke and herbed chicken bowls. 575 Erin. 509-3105. L, D, $

GERMANTOWN BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ FARM & FRIES—A burger-centric menu features 100 percent grass-fed and finished beef served in creative combinations like roasted portobellos and Swiss cheese. Try the Brussels with cheddar, bacon, and quick-fried sprout leaves on fries, house-cut with dipping sauces. Closed Sun. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. L, D, X, $ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac-and-cheese dishes are featured on the menu. Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-you-can-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ KOHESIAN SOKO STYLE EATERY—KoreanAmerican eatery serves up fusion-style dishes like bibimbap burgers or gochujang marinated loaded spicy pork nachos. 1730 S. Germantown Rd. 308-0223. L, D, X, $$. LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA— Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sunday. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ MOONDANCE GRILL—From the owners of Itta Bena and Lafayette’s. Serves steak cooked sous vide and seafood dishes including Abita-barbecued shrimp and pan-seared sand dab, in addition to an extensive wine and cocktail list. 1730 S. Germantown Road, Suite 117. 755-1471. L, D, X, $$-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar #12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $

PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar. 754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ PIMENTO’S KITCHEN + MARKET—Fresh sandwiches, soups, salads, and plenty of pimento cheese at this family-owned restaurant. 6540 Poplar Ave. 602-5488 [Collierville: 3751 S. Houston Levee. 453-6283]. L, D, X, $. RAW GIRLS / CITY & STATE POP-UP— Hannah and Amy Pickle offer plant-based dishes and cold-pressed juices alongside Lisa and Luis Toro’s coffee bar. Hours vary. 2055 W. Germantown. L, X, $ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings. 7850 Poplar #6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR—Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more. 9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 755-0092. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002. L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191. B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590. L, D, X, $-$

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison. 274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BACK DO / MI YARD—A revamped patio space behind The Beauty Shop features rotisserie meats and fishes via Brazilian-style outdoor grill. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday, weather permitting. 966 S. Cooper, 2727111. D, X, $$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR KEOUGH—It’s old school eats and cocktails at the new Cooper-Young neighborhood corner bar by Kevin Keough. 247 Cooper St. D, X, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees. Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 22 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 S. Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $

BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop. Serves steaks, salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecancrusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $ BHAN THAI—Authentic Thai cuisine includes curries, pad Thai noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.Sun. and all day Mon. 1324 Peabody. 272-1538. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN—Kabobs, flavorful chicken and lamb stew, and injera (flatbread) are traditional items on the menu, along with vegetarian options. 1788 Madison. 474-7214. L, D, X, $-$$ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CAFE BROOKS BY CITY & STATE—Serving grab-and-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown-Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean. 725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLÉ—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop. Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CARITAS CAFE—Community deli serves Southerninspired gourmet-style farm-to-table food using locally grown produce and ingredients. Open for lunch MonSat. Closed Sunday. 2509 Harvard Ave. 327-5246. L, X, $. CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 767-4672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 417-7962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchos, jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac-and-cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 668 Union. 207-6182. L, D, $ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice

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cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison. 272-0928. L, D, X, $ THE DOGHOUZZ—It’s both bark and bite at the Doghouzz, which pairs a variety of gourmet hot dogs alongside local craft beer and one of the city’s most extensive whiskey selections. Open for lunch, dinner, and latenight. Closed Sunday. 1349 Autumn Ave. 207-7770. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. L, D, X, $-$$ ELEMENTO NEAPOLITAN PIZZA—Crosstown pizzeria specializes in Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizza with from-scratch dough. 1350 Concourse Avenue. 672-7527. L, D, X, $ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue #175. 800-1851. L, D, X, $ FINO’S ITALIAN DELI & CATERING—The newly revived Fino’s offers the old favorites such as the Acquisto as well as a new breakfast menu. 1853 Madison. 272-FINO. B, L, D, X, $ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFE—This international food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Venezuelan, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to a pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options. 1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce. Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 S. Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HOPDODDY BURGER BAR—Focus is on locally sourced ingredients, with freshly baked buns and meat butchered and ground in-house. Patty options include Angus or Kobe beef, bison, chicken, and more; also vegetarian/vegan. 6 S. Cooper. 654-5100; 4585 Poplar. 683-0700. L, D, X, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po’boys, shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas. 2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese. Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770. L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; L, D, X, $-$$ LUCKY CAT RAMEN—Specializes in gourmet ramen bowls, with such ingredients as braised pork belly and housemade blackened garlic, made with rich broth. Bao, steamed buns filled with various meats and veggies, also grace the menu. Closed Sun. 2583 Broad. 208-8145. L, D, X, $-$$

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MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Fast-casual establishment serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy. Closed Mon.-Tues. 496 N. Watkins. 530-6767. L, D, X, $-$$ MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2087 Madison. 7265343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$ MIDPOINTE FROM EDGE ALLEY—Edge Alley’s sister cafe at the Ballet Memphis headquarters focuses on freshness for its breakfast, lunch, and happy hour tapas. Closed Sunday-Monday. 2144 Madison Ave. 425-2605. B, L, X, $ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ NEXT DOOR AMERICAN EATERY—Serves dishes sourced from American farms. Menu features chorizo bacon dates, spicy gulf shrimp, and dry-aged beef burgers. 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 165. 779-1512. L, D, X, $ ONIX RESTAURANT—Serves seafood dishes, including barbecued shrimp and pecan-crusted trout, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. Closed Sun. 1680 Madison. 552-4609. L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family-owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-to-earth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday. 1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RAILGARTEN—Located in a former rail station space, this eatery offers breakfast items, a variety of salads and sandwiches, and such entrees as short rib mac-and-cheese and fish tacos. Also serves shakes, malts, floats, and cream sodas. 2166 Central. 231-5043. B, L, D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—In the former Nineteenth Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi. Specialties include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as Gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 2146 Monroe. 590-2828. D, X, $$-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ SALTWATER CRAB—Offers an array of seafood dishes including boils with blue crab, crab legs, lobster tails, and more, and specialty sushi like the Dynamite or Royal King rolls, in addition to signature sangrias and cocktails. 2059 Madison Ave. 922-5202. L, D, X, $$. SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dipping sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. 1350 Concourse, Suite 137. 203-3838. L, D (Mon.-Fri.), $ THE SECOND LINE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po’boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, andouille shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 309-8800; 4724 Poplar. 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 KirbyWhitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday. 993 S. Cooper. 922-5314. B, L, SB, X, $

SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and po’boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken, and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar. 590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ SWEET GRASS—Chef Ryan Trimm takes Southern cuisine to a new level. Low-country coastal cuisine includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. Restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun. 937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, $-$$$ TAMBOLI’S PASTA & PIZZA—Pasta Maker Josh Tamboli whips up Italian soul food with seasonal menus featuring dishes like crispy fried chicken or creamy bucatini with pecorino cheese. Serves dinner TuesdaySaturday. Pizza only menu after 9pm. 1761 Madison. 410-8866. D, X, $-$$ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ZINNIE’S—Dive bar classic reopens with a makeover and signature Zinnaloni sandwich. 1688 Madison. 726-5004. L, D, X, $

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES

PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more. Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross Rd. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross Rd., Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Monday. 998 Mississippi Blvd. 507-1519. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagne, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ ELWOOD’S SHACK—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza, and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 761-9898. B, L, D, X, $

EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-342-4544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, shrimp, pork plate, chicken, and hot tamales; also daily lunch specials. Closed Tues. 6842 Stage Rd. 377-8055. L, D, X, $-$$ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials. A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, X, $$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer. 207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW

GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the openfaced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 324-0144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, char-broiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland #120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar (Poplar Plaza). 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ JOES’ ON HIGHLAND—Specializes in fried chicken and comfort sides such as warm okra/green tomato salad and turnip greens. Entrees include salmon patties and chicken-fried steak. Closed Mon. 262 S. Highland. 337-7003. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—This authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs as well as kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $

OUT-OF-TOWN BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Hwy 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400. L, D, $-$$

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CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajun- and Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black-eyed peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $ MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN). 209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. Breakfast menu features griddle cakes, and lunch offerings include hamburger steak and oyster po’ boys. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$

CASINO TABLES BOURBON STREET STEAKHOUSE & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND CASINO RACING—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182. CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225. FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711. JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. SAMMY HAGAR’S RED ROCKER BAR & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-870-735-3670 ext. 5208 THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ—711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213. MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket, along with such sides as mac-and-cheese, grits, and red beans. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$  PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters; also lunch specials. 3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis, AR). 870-735-6466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes. 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ SAINT LEO’S—Offering sophisticated pizzas, pastas, sandwiches, and salads. A James Beard nominee for Best New Restaurant in 2017. 1101 Jackson (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, L, WB, $-$$ SNACKBAR—Billed as an intriguing mix of “French Bistro with North Mississippi Cafe.” Serving a confit duck Croque Monsieur, watermelon-cucumber chaat, pan-fried quail, plus a daily plate special and a raw bar. Chef Vishesh Bhatt was named as Best Chef South by the James Beard Foundation in 2019. 721 N. Lamar (Oxford, MS). 662-236-6363. D, $-$$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeño, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-6550222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

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Giving Back for Beginners Thoughts on acts of everyday charity

t the beginning of the year, I received an email from Vitalant (you probably know them as Lifeblood, their old moniker), the local blood collection and transfusion services organization. It seemed that I was eligible to donate again. I mentioned to my significant other that I was scheduling an appointment, and she asked me to make one for her as well, her first. “Well, the nice woman at the call center did say they had a shortage,” I said. “We’ll make a date of it,” Sydnie replied. When we arrived at the donation center, she admitted to being a little nervous, which took me by surprise, though in retrospect it makes total sense. Nobody likes needles or white clinical-looking rooms that smell of antiseptic spray. Over the years, though, I had become completely inured to the donation process. You see, my dad, my sister, and I are all type O-negative — the universal donor. So, long before I was old enough to donate, I’d watched as our refrigerator accumulated my dad’s Lifeblood magnets. There, among the magnetic alphabet that held my

crayon doodles of dinosaurs to the fridge, Dad’s magnets told the tale of his progression from gallon donor to two-gallon donor and beyond. When I turned 18, I started giving, just because it’s what we do in my family. I didn’t think about it much beyond looking forward to the orange juice they give you at the end. My younger sister, when she was old enough, began donating, too, but because she barely tips the scales on the side of eligibility, she eats ravenously for a week prior to going. She takes iron supplements. In short, she and Sydnie, who was nervous but stepped up and committed to help in spite of that, are the kind of people who inspire me. I applaud them, as I applaud any readers who challenge themselves to go to new lengths to help their community. But this column isn’t for them. It’s so easy to think that you have to run in the St. Jude Marathon or cut a four-figure check

to one of Memphis’ many deservparticular method of communiing nonprofits to be a hero. After ty engagement isn’t for you — all, those are the kinds of giving and that’s okay. We’re all differback that usually get ink or time ent, and we all have something on the evening news. But I’m here unique we can give. In this way, today to speak up for ordinary, our differences are a strength, everyday acts of charity. and a diverse community is one Of course, if you’re the type with a multitude of resources. who goes the extra mile, please As for my preferred methdon’t let me dissuade you from od of giving back, well, what continuing in that I love about being tradition. We need a blood donor — Take baby steps, you. Please keep besides the cookies set small goals, doing what you’re and orange juice doing. But if you’re you get after doand make your nating — is that I thinking that it’s two months into the new activism or charity will never know if I year and you haven’t meet someone who something that made good on your received my blood. comes naturally. resolution to get It could be a man or a woman, a child or more involved, well, a retiree, a partner at a DownI’m talking to you. Take baby town law firm, or the guy who steps, set small goals, and make your activism or charity somechops the slaw for Tops BarB-Q, a person of any ethnicithing that comes naturally. I’m not about to run 26.2 miles, and ty. Because anyone can receive I don’t see myself underwriting O-negative blood, we might not any nonprofits soon. I can give a even be the same blood type. little time, though. To me, that’s a microcosm of If you’re absolutely phobic how community works — or at about needles, if the sight of least how it’s supposed to work. blood instantly nauseates you, or We have to help our neighbors, your medical history precludes and from a certain perspecyou from donating, then this tive, we’re all neighbors.

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