Memphis Magazine April 2019

Memphis • THE CITY MAGAZINE • W W W.MEMPHISMAGAZINE.COM

THE CITY MAGAZINE

VOL XLIV NO 1 | A P R IL 2 019

I S S U E

COVER PHOTOGRAPH © 2019 MEMPHIS HERITAGE, INC. / MRS. DON NEWMAN. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

S P E C I A L

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The meal gets five stars

THE EXPERIENCE, SIX.

As a city known for its exceptional restaurants, cafes and bistros, Birmingham continues to set the standard for what a food scene should be. But aside from our award-winning dishes, what you’ll also find here is a place rich with history, filled with music, art, culture and southern hospitality. So pull up a chair at The Dinner Table of the South.

And dig in to everything we have to offer.

inbirmingham.com/MEM1 | 800 - 458 - 8085

GREATER BIRMINGHAM CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

SMALL MEETINGS. BIG IMPACT. Here’s what our Clients are saying about The Westin Memphis Beale Street: We’ve had this meeting at the Westin Memphis Beale Street 3 years in a row. Each year has been great, but this year was even better!!! Kudos to the staff!!! - Steve F. What’s not to Love? Location to FedEx Forum - Team was comfortable - Food was great - Service was terrific.- Jay D We always receive the best customer service from the Westin!

- Mark G. I had high expectations, but I was still really impressed.

AV was set up early and ran well, the food was delicious and the service was great, not disruptive to the speaker or presentation in the least.

Hospitality is what Westin does best, and we really felt taken care of from the moment we walked in, to the minute we left. Staff was friendly and helpful, parking and valet was convenient, the entire event seemed very turn-key, leaving our team not having much to do beyond enjoy the event.

Shaina G. Everyone was professional and handled everything beautifully.

Great work! - Jessica G.

Contact our Professional Sales and Events Team to help plan your next event!

901-334-5920 • westin.com/bealestreet

The Westin Memphis Beale Street 170 Lt. George W. Lee Avenue, Memphis, TN 38103

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V O L X L I V N O 1 | A P R IL 2 019 On The Cover Main Street, 1951 © 2019 MEMPHIS HERITAGE, INC. / MRS. DON NEWMAN. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Up Front 12 14 19

IN THE BEGINNING OUT AND ABOUT FRONT AND CENTER

Features

24 The Eye of the Eagle

John James Audubon along the Mississippi.

~ by james seay

32 That Most Uncivil War

The Battle of Memphis, then and now.

~ by christopher blank

36 The Martyrs of Memphis

When yellow fever hit Memphis in 1878, a few stayed behind. Their brave deeds cost them their lives.

~ by michael finger

46 A Determined Quest for Equality

How Ida B. Wells battled Jim Crow in Memphis.

~ by linda peavey and ursula smith

50 Mr. Crump

The making of a boss.

Memphis (ISSN 1622-820x) is published monthly for $15 per year by Contemporary Media, Inc., P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101 © 2019. Telephone: 901-521-9000.

For subscription info, please call 901-521-9000. Subscription customer service mailing address is Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101. All rights reserved. • Periodicals Postage Paid at Memphis, TN. Postmasters: send address changes to Memphis, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101.

~ by kenneth neill

64 A Hero’s Tale

Tom Lee’s exploits are the stuff of local legend.

~ by michael finger

68 May 12, 1939

A day in the life of The Peabody.

~ by david dawson

74 A Star Is Born

86 Soulsville

From 1960 to 1975, in a building on McLemore, something remarkable occurred that would bring Memphis music to the world.

~ by andria lisle

94 The Crucible

How the National Civil Rights Museum was transformed from scarred to sacred ground.

~ by preston lauterbach

104 For the Record

Memphis has made music, and vice versa.

Ten albums that tell the story.

~ by chris herrington, alex greene, and samuel x. cicci

109 LOCAL TREASURES

Charles W. Crawford This University of Memphis professor has spent a lifetime helping to bring the past into the present.

~ by michael finger

118 DINING CLASSICS / CITY DINING Rendezvous Ribs

Plus the city’s most extensive dining listings.

128 ENDGAME

Elvis Presley: 1955-56. ~ by judy ringel

Russell Sugarmon

How Fred Smith confounded the experts and turned Federal Express into a $160 million reality.

~ by jackson baker

78 The Million-Dollar Dream Machine

He spent his life dedicated to the notion of universal equality.

~ by kenneth neill

APRIL 20 19 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • 7

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BONUS

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE

Coming in June 2019

OF

T OP DOC T ORS

ORIENTAL RUGS

Our widely read annual feature presents the area’s leading physicians as chosen by their peers, profiles of specialists, and other helpful information.

Coming in July 2019 REMODEL MEMPHIS

REmodel

M

E

M

P

H

I

Memphis magazine and the Remodelers Council of the West Tennessee Home Builders Association have collaborated to produce before-andafter images and a look at remodeling projects.

S

Your 2018 Guide to Making the Most of Your Space

Our business is our family name.

With summer in full swing, our second installment of Remodel Memphis highlights outdoor living. A patio, a pergola, a pool, or an outdoor kitchen can add just what you’ve needed to better enjoy the space right outside your door.

On the following pages, we feature two such projects — along with before-and-after photos — and talk with the happy homeowners whose dream homes have become reality with the help of local professionals. — by Shara Clark

a special supplement to

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STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE SINCE 1950

Coming in August 2019

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CIT Y GUIDE

2 0 1 8 WHO’S WHO & WHAT’S WHAT IN THE BLUFF CITY! CITY GUIDE

THE CITY MAGAZINE

The most comprehensive guide to living in the Memphis area. The issue features our annual “Who’s Who” profiles, along with other interesting features.

VOL XLIII NO 5 | AUGUST 2018

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW! OUR TOP 50 RESTAURANTS FASHION IN THE STREETS THE GREAT OUTDOORS WELCOME BACK, PENNY! THEATRE | ARTS NIGHTLIFE | MUSIC EDUCATION | HEALTHCARE ELVIS’ BIGGEST COMEBACK AND MUCH, MUCH MORE!

USA $4.99

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COLLEGE GUIDE Our in-depth guide to the area’s colleges and universities, with information about classes, tuition, campus life, and much more.

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Coming in September 2019 V E S TA HOME SHOW GUIDE

a special publication of Memphis magazine

Rediscover small town living.

FIVE impressive homes showcasing the best in home building, design and technology only a short drive away at beautiful Piperton Preserve.

OCT. 6

EXCITEMENT IS

BUILDING! October 6–28, 2018

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THROUGH

Premier Sponsors:

OCT. 28 Premier Sponsors:

The official guide to the 2019 Vesta Home Show features renderings, floor plans, suppliers, and builders information for each of the six homes in the show.

October 6–28, 2018

8/20/18 2:53 PM

For more information on advertising or our upcoming special sections, please contact Margie Neal at margie@memphismagazine.com 8 • MEMPHISMAGA ZINE.COM • APRIL 20 19

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THE YACHT-MASTER heritage that stretches back to the 1950s.

It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

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Memphis T H E CIT Y M AG AZIN E

General Excellence Grand Award Winner City and Regional Magazine Association 2007, 2008, 2010, 2014

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EDITOR kenneth neill EXECUTIVE EDITOR michael finger MANAGING EDITOR frank murtaugh SENIOR EDITORS shara clark, jon w. sparks ASSOCIATE EDITOR samuel x. cicci ARTS & LIFESTYLE EDITOR anne cunningham o’neill FOOD EDITOR pamela denney CONTRIBUTING EDITORS jackson baker,

michael donahue, john a. jennings, vance lauderdale, anna traverse EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS christopher blank,

david dawson, alex greene, chris herrington, preston lauterbach, andria lisle, linda peavey, judy ringel, james seay, ursula smith EDITORIAL ASSISTANT julia baker EDITORIAL INTERNS avery budin, angie harri

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CREATIVE DIRECTOR brian groppe PRODUCTION OPERATIONS DIRECTOR margie neal SENIOR ART DIRECTOR carrie beasley ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR christopher myers GRAPHIC DESIGNERS jeremiah matthews,

bryan rollins PHOTOGRAPHY justin fox burks, michael donahue,

robert dye, larry kuzniewski, don newman ILLUSTRATION chris honeysuckle ellis

4

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE sloane patteson taylor ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES kayla white, jacob woloshin

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published by contemporary media, inc. memphis, tn 901-521-9000 p • 901-521-0129 f subscriptions: 901-521-9000

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CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER / PUBLISHER kenneth neill CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER anna traverse CONTROLLER ashley haeger DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT jeffrey a. goldberg EDITORIAL DIRECTOR bruce vanwyngarden DIGITAL SERVICES DIRECTOR kristin pawlowski CIRCULATION COORDINATOR julie ray SPECIAL EVENTS DIRECTOR molly willmott EMAIL MARKETING MANAGER britt ervin IT DIRECTOR joseph carey RECEPTIONIST kalena mckinney

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april 2019

member: City and Regional Magazine Association member: Circulation Verification Council 10 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 9

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IN THE BEGINNING | by michael finger

Against All Odds

KEITH ALLEN

Custom Builder

CUSTOM HOMES RENOVATIONS & ADDITIONS

901-754-4044

KeithAllenHomes.com

After all we’ve been through, a 200th anniversary is worth celebrating.

T

wo hundred years ago, three dapper gentlemen strolled into a tavern alongside the Mississippi River. They doffed their silk hats and, pen and parchment in hand, proceeded to sketch plans for a brand-new town, carving out promenades and parks from the farmland they had purchased here. Even though barely 50 people lived in the area, future president Andrew Jackson and wealthy Nashville landowners John Overton and James Winchester named their new city “Memphis” after the ancient Egyptian capital on the Nile.

When assembling this package of history of 1878 ravaged this city (“a dark, dismal hour stories, looking back on the formation of the of death”), heroes emerged from that darkness, Bluff City, we scanned our archives for arti- giving their lives to save others. Years later, Ida cles we had published about this momentous B. Wells, derided as a “race agitator,” with her occasion but failed to find a single one. That’s national newspaper columns held a mirror to because such a meeting never took place. this city “as an illustration of barbarism and Yes, the men bought land along the bluff, but savagery.” In so doing, she helped put an end Jackson never came here and — fearing this to lynching. Tom Lee rescued survivors of a was a foolhardy venture — immediately sold river disaster (“the sensiblest drowning folks his share. Overton may have visited, but he I ever saw”), an especially brave deed for a man kept his law business in Nashwho couldn’t swim. ville. Winchester also remained Over the years, others took in middle Tennessee, though he risks, too — not involving their sent a son, Marcus, to serve as lives, but certainly putting their the town’s first mayor. reputations on the line. This exBut three wealthy businessplains the risky ventures of such men clinking mugs of ale as they entrepreneurs as Clarence Saunsaluted their new enterprise? ders, Abe Plough, or Frederick Well, that never happened.

W. Smith, who created one of A more accurate portrayal of the greatest success stories in the city-to-be came from the American business history. pen of John James Audubon. As For that matter, “What have recounted in “The Eye of the EaI got to lose?” seemed to be the June 1981 attitude of the shy kid from Tugle” (p. 24), the artist journeyed here in 1820 and found “a very decayed situa- pelo, when Elvis stepped into the door of a tion.” What’s more, he encountered residents little studio to make a record for his mother. who “lie on the damp earth near the edge of And sometimes, that “at all costs” attitude the water, have raccoons to eat and muddy transformed decaying institutions into nationwater to help that food down.” al icons. After years of dormancy, The Peabody Not a very flattering image, is it? And yet, is again “the South’s Grand Hotel,” Stax (dewe wonder if Audubon had observed some- molished and rebuilt) has become the Museum thing about the true nature of Memphis — of American Soul Music, and the Lorraine Moand Memphians — that over the years has tel is now the National Civil Rights Museum, never really left us. We’ve always been fighters one of America’s must-see attractions. and scrappers, in a place known (many years Certain individuals overcame personal oblater) for its “grit and grind.” This city has suf- stacles to become leaders. E.H. Crump never fered, and survived, more than its share of worried about his lack of formal education tragedy. Fires, fever, and floods have brought and limited public speaking skills. With sheer us low, while storms have lashed the city, and willpower, he became the political boss of this the constant threat of earthquakes from the city, county, and the entire state.

New Madrid Fault has kept us on edge.

The founders named our city after an EgyIf anyone living in such a place expects to tian capital that was swallowed by the desert keep their sanity, they simply have to maintain centuries ago. We’ve overcome many obstacles, a devil-may-care attitude. We noticed that and still face many more, but our city has surattitude — call it an inner strength, if you will vived for 200 years, and we like to think we’ll — in the stories you’ll read here. For example, be around for 200 more.

Happy Anniversary, Memphis! an element of risk seems to be the driving Michael Finger force behind the Memphians showcased in executive editor these pages. When the yellow fever epidemic

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Congratulations to our hometown.

Home means more than just the roof over your head. It means familiar faces, favorite places, and everything that’s close to your heart. As you celebrate your bicentennial, Memphis, we’re right there with you. Congratulations on 200 years!

©2019 FedEx. All rights reserved.

FXADV-0789 Memphis 200 Ad MemMag FINAL v6.indd 1

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OU T A ND A BOU T |

APRIL 2019

4.13

compiled by julia baker

V&E Artwalk

At the eighth annual V&E Artwalk, visitors will be able to browse more than 70 booths displaying art by local artists and students.

Guests will also enjoy a silent auction, children’s play area, food, and beer/ wine. All proceeds will benefit the V&E Greenline to keep it beautiful for everyone to enjoy.

V&E Greenline, 1625 Tutwiler Ave. vegreenline.org

4.13

4.07

Paws 4 a Cause

Grizzlies v.

Mavericks

The Memphis Grizzlies match up against the Dallas Mavericks. Sixth all-time NBA scorer Dirk Nowitzki and prodigiously talented Luka Doncic bring their European roots to Memphis. Can the struggling Grizz hold their own against the Mavs?

FedExForum, 191 Beale St. fedexforum.com

Memphis Fashion Week

A treat for dogs and dog lovers alike, Paws 4 a Cause features a dog adoption event plus activities that include games, demonstrations, pet artists’ market, and a Celebrity Pet Wash, where pets can enjoy a spa treatment from local media celebrities.

Saddle Creek, 7615 W. Farmington shopsofsaddlecreek.com

4.10-4.13

4.07 Death Cab for Cutie

Memphis Fashion Week

Death Cab for Cutie

PHOTOGRAPH BY ELIOT-LEE-HAZEL

Memphis Fashion Design Network promotes emerging designers and models at its annual Memphis Fashion Week.

Events include runway shows, trunk shows, soirées, and more.

Various Locations memphisfashionweek. org

A

lternative rock band Death Cab for Cutie graces The Orpheum stage for a night of hits new and old, which may include “Gold Rush” and “I Will Follow You Into the Dark.”

The Orpheum Theatre, 203 S. Main St. Orpheum-memphis.com

4.03-4.07 Forging on the River

At this three-day conference, metalsmiths and enthusiasts will have the chance to learn from this year’s guest artist Alan Evans, as well as network and exchange ideas with each other while exploring the exhibits on-site. A dinner and auction will be open to the public on Saturday, April 6th.

Metal Museum, 374 Metal Museum Dr. metalmuseum.org

4.04-4.08

4.05-4.07

4.13

Memphis Redbirds Art in the Loop The second annual Art in v. Omaha Storm the Loop, presented by Chasers

The two-time defending Pacific Coast League champions return for their 20th season at AutoZone Park. New manager Ben Johnson (a native of Germantown) will be calling the shots from the home dugout with St. Louis Cardinals prospects up and down the lineup card.

AutoZone Park, 200 Union Ave. milb.com/memphis

Southern Hot Wing Festival

the ArtWorks Foundation, features art in a variety of media, including metal, glass, wood, and clay.

Local youth ensembles will perform classical music, and food-truck fare will be available for purchase.

Briarcrest Ave. & Ridgebend Rd. artintheloop.org

Just as it’s starting to get warmer outside, the 17th Annual Southern Hot Wing Festival brings the sizzle with wing eating contests, live music, cornhole tournaments, and more.

Tiger Lane, 335 S. Hollywood Street southernhotwingfestival. com

Memphis Grizzlies

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PHOTOGRAPH NOAH GRAHAM NBAE-GETTY IMAGES

Paws 4 A Cause

PHOTOGRAPH NOAH GRAHAM NBAE-GETTY IMAGES

3/20/19 1:33 PM

4.27

Memphis 901 FC vs. Charleston Battery

With their inaugural season up and running, 901 FC look to make a point against sporting director Andrew Bell’s former team backed by a raucous Memphis crowd.

AutoZone Park, 200 Union Ave. memphis901fc.com

4.27

(RAIN DATE 4.28)

Down to Earth Festival

Memphis 901 FC

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRYAN ROLLINS

Shelby Farms Park celebrates Earth Day and sustainability with its annual Down to Earth Festival, where attendees can meet with environmentally focused vendors, artisans, and organizations while enjoying live music, crafts, and kid-friendly activities.

Shelby Farms Park, 6903 Great View Dr. North shelbyfarmspark.org

4.17

Aziz Ansari — Road to Nowhere

“Treat yo’ self” to a night of stand-up by Aziz Ansari, perhaps best known for his role as Tom Haverford on the sitcom Parks and Recreation, as he stops at the Cannon Center on his Road to Nowhere Tour.

Cannon Center for the Performing Arts, 255 N. Main St. Ticketmaster.com

4.20

of Montreal

Indie-pop band of Montreal pays a visit to 1884 Lounge in Minglewood Hall to promote its latest album, White is Relic/Irrealis Mood.

Musical group Yip Deceiver will open for the band.

Minglewood Hall, 1555 Madison Ave. minglewoodhall.com

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2019

FACE OF ALTERNATIVE DISPUTE RESOLUTION (ADR)

Sheree Hoffman and Jenna McDonald have an excellent track record of giving good advice, understanding their client’s needs and implementing creative solutions to resolve family law issues. We will examine your particular situation and help you make the best decisions to achieve a positive result.

Sheree L. Hoffman, Attorney Hoffman Law and Mediation Office 7515 Corporate Centre Drive Germantown, TN 38138 901.754.9994 • www.hoffmanfamilylaw.com

Down to Earth Festival

A P R I L 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 15

For some women, the best chance at early cancer detection is both a mammogram and ultrasound

M

ost women know annual screening is their best option for detecting breast cancer early, when there are better odds of successful treatment and a full recovery.

Board-certified radiologist Timothy Cramer, MD, Regional One Health’s lead interpreting radiologist for mammography, said some patients should have a breast ultrasound along with their mammogram each year. Regional One Health’s East Campus offers both.

It comes down to the density of the patient’s breast tissue.

While dense tissue is not abnormal or harmful, “On a mammogram, cancer can hide in the dense tissue because they look the same on the image,” Dr. Cramer said, “but on an ultrasound, we can easily see what we can’t see on the mammogram.”

When a woman has her first baseline mammogram, which is recommended at age 40, she will find out if she has dense breast tissue. In Tennessee, that disclosure is state law, and women must be told it increases their risk of breast cancer and makes mammogram results harder to read. They are encouraged to discuss their best screening options with their doctor.

Dr. Cramer explained why adding ultrasound often fits the bill.

There are four categories of breast density: A, almost entirely fatty; B, scattered areas of density; C, majority dense; and D, nearly all dense. Women in categories C and D – about half of all patients – are considered to have “dense” breasts.

Dense breasts are most common in younger women, those with less body fat overall, and those who take hormone therapy for menopause.

Dr. Cramer said a mammogram uses regular x-ray technology, so fatty tissue shows up as gray and dense tissue shows up white – but a tumor would also show up white. Ultrasound, however, uses sound waves, and those waves make very different echo patterns depending on what they hit – for example, fluid-filled cysts, dense tissue and solid tumors all look different on the imaging.

Patients would still need a needle biopsy to test for cancer, Dr. Cramer said, but ultrasound at least lets radiologists see if there is a mass within dense tissue.

That said, he stressed breast ultrasound is a companion, not an alternative, to mammography.

Essentially, doctors correlate the mammogram and ultrasound, reading the results of the two tests simultaneously. The mammogram shows them a full picture of the breast and where the dense tissue is located, while the ultrasound focuses in on that dense tissue and shows what lies within.

At the East Campus Imaging Center, both tests are readily available, and Dr. Cramer and his fellow radiologists have special certification in reading breast imaging.

Women can access mammograms on a walk-in basis with little or no wait, and they don’t need a doctor’s order for preventative screening. Ultrasounds do require a doctor’s order, so women who have been told they have dense breasts should simply request the test when they visit their physician. That way, they can have both tests at the East Campus on the same day.

Having both an annual mammogram and ultrasound is the best cancer screening for women with dense breast tissue.

Dr. Cramer encouraged women to talk with their doctor to learn their best options, and then always follow through with annual screening based on their specific needs. “If you have very dense breasts, an ultrasound and a mammogram can help with detection at any age,” he said.

Visit the East Campus Imaging Center today on the first floor at 6555 Quince Road, or to make an appointment visit

RegionalOneHealth.org or call 901.515.EAST

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Publication: Memphis Magazine

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I N T R O D U C I N G . . .

Boyle’s newest residential community Allelon(pronounced al-lay’-lone) is nestled behind the forest at McVay and Messick. Allelon combines a natural secluded setting with a perfect Germantown/East Memphis location. In the shade of old growth canopy, fifty exquisitely crafted homes will line winding, gated self-contained streets. The setting feels rustic, but owners in Allelon are only minutes away from upscale shopping, numerous corporate headquarters, healthcare and schools. Germantown’s award winning schools and the area’s most prestigious private schools -including MUS, Hutchison, Lausanne- are all just around the corner. Family-sized lots begin below $200,000 in Germantown.

RESERVE YOUR FAMILY’S SPOT IN THIS NEW GATED COMMUNITY – ALLELON - AT THE HEART OF IT ALL.

Gary Thompson (901)-766-4246 garyt@boyle.com

FRONT AND CENTER

Mr. Sesquicentennial Robert Huff was a man with a mission and the face of Memphis’ 150th anniversary.

by frank murtaugh

F

ifty years ago, over two summer months, Robert Huff drove more than 15,000 miles in a city-provided van to promote Memphis’ 150th anniversary. Huff (then 24) and partner Walter Slaughter (then 22) departed July 7, 1969, their van packed with mementos — a medallion and newly released W.C. Handy stamp — to hand-deliver at state capitals of the 48 contiguous United States, returning home on September 5th. We recently caught up with Huff to discuss his odyssey.

How did you land this gig?

There was an ad in The Commercial Appeal seeking a college graduate with two months off to travel the country and promote the city of Memphis. I was in summer school at Murray State, came home for the interview, and went back. They called my parents here in town and asked how soon I could report. It was an unbelievable gig.

[Huff and Slaughter were paid just $20 per diem. Holiday Inn provided their lodging and a local auto dealership the van.]

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY ROBERT HUFF

Where was your first stop, and what was the general itinerary?

AAA routed the entire trip and the first stop was Nashville and Governor Buford Ellington. From there, we drove south to Montgomery, Alabama, then on to Florida and up the East Coast.

Is there a particular state that has stuck in your memory over the last half-century?

We weren’t supposed to go to Alaska, but we had weekends off, so I bought a plane ticket and went on my own [during our time in the Pacific Northwest]. A government official met me at the airport in Juneau. [A few years later, Huff and his wife traveled to Hawaii and he delivered a medallion to Honolulu to cover all 50 states.] There was a glacier on the side of a mountain near the

Robert Huff (in van) and Walter Slaughter get a send-off from Miss Memphis 1969, Suzanne Dennie Shore.

airport. I’d never seen a glacier before.

Any celebrity encounters on the tour?

We had an appointment to meet President Richard Nixon at the White House and thought we were 15 minutes late, but were

actually an hour and 15 minutes late. We’d miscalculated the time zone. Congressman Dan Kuykendall had arranged it and he was not happy with us. A 24-year-old kid trying to park a van in Washington and get to the White House? We’re lucky we ever got A P R I L 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 19

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there in the first place.

We went to see Elvis perform at the Hilton in Las Vegas. We had on our blazers, with Memphis patches. They took us down to a padded booth, right there with several hundred women yelling and screaming. We also saw a Jack Benny show in Illinois.

There must have been some unplanned events on a journey of such length.

I drove the whole trip. Near Mount Rushmore, a cable burned out and I had to get under the van to put the car in gear. [The trip organizers] sent someone to repair it the next day. And we had a flat tire in Amarillo, Texas.

Before we left Memphis, we were given a religious symbol to place on the dashboard, a kind of blessing for our trip. It fell off and we lost it! We went to gift shops at two Catholic churches, trying to replace it.

Couldn’t find another one.

Were recipients of the medallions appreciative, enthusiastic about Memphis? This was just a year after Martin Luther King’s assassination here.

We were amazed at how many people had been to Memphis. It seems like one in five had been in the military. They knew of Millington, at that time the largest inland Navy base. Some governors wanted to sit

down and visit; others were almost rude, but they met us as a favor.

Tell us about your partner, Mr. Slaughter (now the president of Walt Slaughter Associates in Nashville).

Walter had been president of the student body at the University of Arkansas, and he’d had his own radio show there. He enjoyed answering any questions we got. We got along okay. When we had free time, if he didn’t want to go out, I’d take the van and go myself.

What did you learn about Memphis on the journey?

So many people had passed through Memphis, had connections. And remember, Beale Street wasn’t drawing tourists then.

More people mentioned Millington. We didn’t meet the governor of California, but we met Ivy Baker Priest [the former U.S. Treasurer], the woman whose signature appeared on the dollar bill. Her daughter had been in a recent movie with Elvis.

Huff has continued to leave a tangible mark on states — particularly government offices and courthouses — over the last 50 years. As a student at Lambuth College in Jackson, Tennessee, he designed the first seal for what was then called Memphis State University. From that endeavor came Robert Huff Designs. Huff ’s seals can now be found in the offices of numerous U.S. Senators and Representatives.

Now 74, Huff is a lifelong Memphian.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

Robert Huff, 2019

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Celebrati ng

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00 Memphis

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St. Agnes Academy-St. Dominic School celebrates our shared past and looks forward to inspiring students in Memphis for centuries to come.

— i n M e m p h i s H i s t o ry—

1877 — Memphians are horrified to discover unusual objects mixed with the rain during a heavy downpour. Umbrellas really aren’t much help against thousands of foot-long garter snakes dropping from the sky, most of them very much alive. Scientific American magazine pondered where so many snakes “could exist in such abundance,” and suggested that “they were probably carried aloft by a hurricane and wafted through the atmosphere,” apparently forgetting that Memphis rarely has hurricanes.

1892 — Memphis spans the Mississippi River with the “Great Bridge,” the longest bridge in North America. No one is entirely certain the bridge is strong enough, so volunteers man 18 locomotives, linked end to end, which inch across the bridge on a test run. Everyone holds their breath, but it does not tumble into the river, and continues to carry railroads to this day.

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1911 — To win a bet, Professor Charles Oldrieve dons a pair of floating shoes of his own invention — more like canoes, really — and proceeds to “walk” down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, from Cincinnati to New Orleans. He spends the night in Memphis, accompanied by his wife, who follows him the entire way in a rowboat. Yes, he wins the bet.

8TH

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b oy s

educating memphis since 1851 I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y G R E G C R A V E N S

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EEYE of the

Eagle

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along the Mississippi.

ry to imagine a context that will accommodate the following montage: hundreds of mallards flying south above the finest rainbow a man ever beheld; a male eagle storming in out of the clouds like a torrent; two men and a woman asleep on the damp earth beside the river, availing themselves only of raccoons and muddy water for sustenance; a dog named Dash who fetches her master such mussels and periwinkles as he has never seen before; and a color drawing of a bald eagle about to eat a catfish that summons up all that can be summoned up about predation and fierceness.

An outdoorsman’s vision of Heaven and Hell? Nope. The images were all recorded by John James Audubon in the fall and winter of 1820, as he floated on a keelboat down the Mississippi River, en route to New Orleans, gathering new specimens of birds for his drawings. During the trip, Audubon kept a journal, and these particular images are all from entries made while he was in the vicinity of Memphis.

The entry below is dated December 1, 1820. Audubon’s command of the brush and pen was considerably better than his command of the English language (which, in fairness, was his second tongue; America’s most famous naturalist was actually born in Haiti, of French parentage). But since his own peculiar way of saying things gets lost in editing, the excerpts that follow are reproduced exactly as they were written: “I went a shore to a House about 5 Miles above Wolf River in a sharp running Bend, saw 2 beautifull Trees the Pride of China here the High Land is within 2 miles of the River and the spot on which the Plantation stands never overflows, these are remarkable spots.” a v ersion of this story origina lly a ppe a red in the m a rch 1984 issue of

MEMPHIS

maga zine.

ILLUSTRATION COURTESY SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION ARCHIVES

T

by james seay

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“We are Landed immediately at the foot of “As soon as we had eat our Common Breakfast Old Fort Pickering. We Walked up to it through fried Bacon and Soaked Biscuits — Joseph a very narrow crooked path, and found in a [Audubon’s assistant] went to his station and I very decayed situation; the Position a Beautiful to Mine, i.e., he rowed the skiff and I steering one the Land Rich about it — and were told it — Went to the Little Prairie … that the Spaniards own it. it was an agreable “I shot a Beautifull White headed Eagle Falco spot to live at — about 2 miles above this, the Leucocephalus — probably 150 yards off, My Mouth of Wolf river came in from the East, and Ball Went through its body — is the Landing place of a Town Called Memphis “Returned to our Boats immediately and began My Drawings — it is a — have runned 24 miles — Saw some Towe Buntings and Many Sparrows —” Handsome Male —” That is okay, you are thinking; this Memphis Audubon was still working on the drawing stuff is okay — the rich land, the chinaberry three days later, November 26th, on which day trees, all that — but what about birds? Your he noted that the thermometer was down to curiosity is not so limited that it stops at the 22 degrees. That might explain the glint of ice city-limit signs. Here then is Audubon’s dethe viewer can still detect in that eagle’s eye. scription of what else The drawing was f inished the next he saw on that day, December 1st, not too day, Audubon noting many miles upriver that the “Noble Bird from Memphis in 1820: weighed 8½ lb.” At “I saw this afternoon the time of this jourTwo Eagles Coatiting nal entry Audubon — the femelle was was on Flour Island, on a Very high Limb opposite the f irst of a Tree and squated Chickasaw Bluff, beat the approach of the tween what is now Fulton and GoldMale, who came Like a Torrent, alighted on dust, Tennessee. her and quakled shrill As he went down untill he sailed off the the Mississippi to femelle following him New Orleans, Auduand zig zaging herself bon observed with a sharp eye all that through the air — this passed before him. is scarce proof I have had the pleasure of He watched the birds witnessing of these along the riverbanks and all of the Falco in Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Genus breeding much Earlier than any Othand Louisiana, stopIn the 1820s, when John James Audubon made er Land Birds —” ping sometimes to go his first illustrations of a “white-headed eagle,” Local partisans, in inland if either his he never imagined the bird would become the fact, might be tempted artistic vision or his national symbol for the United States. to advance the arguthin pocketbook rement that it was this quired increase.

He was a man possessed. Earlier that year, heady experience very near Memphis that ultimately informed and shaped the vision that he had become enthralled with what he Audubon called on in completing the original called the “Great Idea” of completing a portfolio of drawings of all the birds of America version of his famous watercolor of the bald and publishing that collection. What he had eagle, reproduced here. Though Audubon finished his drawing of the eagle upriver, just in mind was a double elephant folio (29½” x before landing “at the foot of Flour Island, 39½”) of color engravings. At the time, his opposite the first Chickasaw Bluff,” we know collection of color drawings was random and for a fact that the watercolor was later revised. incomplete, he was bankrupt, without patron A green-winged teal, which had earlier been or publisher, and was virtually unknown as an the eagle’s prey, was replaced by the less noble artist. His various business ventures in Penncatfish, perhaps in order to throw into stronger sylvania, Kentucky, and Ohio had proven him relief the eagle’s glory. ill-suited to the world of commerce.

The eagle which Audubon used as his model It was not that he had not wanted to be for this famous engraving was one that he shot successful in business. He had tried to be a on the Mississippi River at Little Prairie Bend, gentleman farmer, a merchant, and a sawmill near Tiptonville, a few miles west of Reelfoot owner, among other things. But his true callLake. Proof of that model eagle’s origin can ing was elsewhere, he came to realize, and be found in Audubon’s journal entry for Nohe decided to act on the growing conviction vember 23, 1820: that he wanted more than anything to find

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new specimens of birds and make likenesses of them with his black chalk and watercolors.

To that end, he boarded a flatboat in Cincinnati on October 12, 1820, bound for New Orleans. He had other extensive travels in mind, but the journey down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans would be the most important of his career, if for no other reason than that it set him free to follow his vision.

His freedom, it should be obvious, was not without severe costs. Here is part of the first entry in his journal on the day he embarked: “Without any Money My Talents are to be My Support and My enthusiasm my Guide in My Difficulties, the whole of which I am ready to exert to keep, and to surmount.”

Thus began the journey that brought Audubon a month and a half later to Little Prairie Bend, and the bald eagle whose likeness he would eventually leave us as part of a wonderful and enduring gift. The fullness of that total gift owes in no small measure to the human experiences that came to him and the plentiful wildlife he witnessed as he made his way down the river: ◗◗ Toward Memphis: “Immediately below us is a family of Three people in Two Skiffs a Woman & 2 men; they are Too Lazy to Make themselves Comfortable, and Lie on the Damp Earth, near the Edge of the Watter, have Racoons to Eat and Muddy Watter to help that food down, are from the Mouth of Cumberland and moving to a Worst Part of the Worst Without Doubt —” ◗◗ Past Buck Island in Mississippi: “Here I saw with the setting sun hundreds of Malards … and the Finest rainbow I ever beheld” ◗◗ Then inland a few miles to a lake (Beaverdam Lake?): “This Lake about 2 Miles from the River, contains some of the Largest Muscles I ever saw, and Vast Many perewinkles that appear to be of a Peculiar Species”

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◗◗ New Moon Lake, Mississippi: “Mr. Aumack Winged a White headed Eagle, brought it live on board, the Noble Fellow Looked at his Ennemies with a Contemptible Eye … I am glad to find that its Eyes were Coresponding with My Drawing” ◗◗ Down near Tallulah, Louisiana, across from Percy and Panther Burn and Nitta Yuma: “Drawing nearly all day I finished the Carion Crow, it stunk so intolerably, and Looked so disgusting that I was very glad when I through it over Board.” (Speaking of Panther Burn, Mississippi, Audubon writes of two wood-cutters near there who “reported that a few weeks passed a Youth of about 12 Years having Met a Large Brown Tiger, or Cougar called here, a Painter was so frightened that he died after reaching his Parents’ house.”)

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◗◗ Then to Natchez: “a Little before Dusk I saw from our Boat Roof the Magnolia & Pines that ornement the Hills above this Place.”

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n Sunday, January 7, 1821, “At New Orleans at Last,” Audubon set about trying to advance his cause.

About a week later he noted, “I walked to Jarvis the Painter and shewed him some of my Drawings — he overlooked them, said nothing then Leaned down and examined them minutely but never said they Were good or bad — Merely that when he drew an Eagle for Instance, he made it resemble a Lyon, and covered it with Yellow hair and not Feathers — some fools who entered the room, were so pleased at seeing my Eagle that they prised it, and Jarvis whistled —” The lot of the destitute though proud and talented artist is all that we have heard it is.

Whether or not we would have played the role of a Jarvis or one of the “fools” who appreciated Audubon’s eagle is hard to say. With the benefit of historical perspective, however, it is easy to know that Audubon’s instinct to put feathers rather than yellow hair on his eagle was pre-eminently good and true.

Five months later, free of New Orleans’ condescension (though far from the fame and financial security he would one day achieve), John James Audubon could be found opening up a rattlesnake’s mouth and describing what was in there, teeth and fangs and ligament, and how it all worked.

A dead rattlesnake, to be sure, but a rattlesnake nonetheless — and one that the August heat in Bayou Sara, Louisiana, was working on: “My Drawing I Hope Will give you a good Idea of a Rattle Snake although the Heat of the weather Would not permit me to Spend More than 16 hours at it —” It is a pretty good “Idea of a Rattle Snake”; you can see it today in Plate XXI of The Birds of America in as cold-blooded an attack on a mockingbird nest as you will ever witness in a work of art.

Fame, of course, came to Audubon eventually, and he was able to enjoy some of its financial rewards. Not to the degree, however, enjoyed by present-day art dealers owning editions of The Birds of America. A 1984 ad in The New Yorker offered prints from that collection, which consists of 435 plates, depicting a total of 1,065 birds. The prints — “magnificent hand-colored engravings … in excellent condition,” according to the ad — are priced from $1,200 to $38,000 apiece.

In 1820, Audubon would gladly have put your name on his list of subscribers for considerably less. He was, after all, “on Board a Keel Boat going to New Orleans the poorest Man on it.”

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T H AT M O S T

uncivil

WAR

ne hundred and fifty years ago this month, a one-sided skirmish that barely deserves its name — the Battle of Memphis — was fought by naval gunboats on the Mississippi River alongside our city. But anybody who thinks that the issues involved are now ancient history is perhaps just whistlin’ Dixie.

Atlanta was burned. Vicksburg was besieged. And Memphis? Memphis was, to use a sports term, a blowout.

No matter how you look at it, the Battle of Memphis, fought June 6, 1862, isn’t so much the epic fodder of Civil War narratives as it is a cautionary tale for overconfident underdogs.

As the naval battle on the Mississippi came to a woefully lopsided end, a cry described as “something between a wail and a curse” arose from the thousands of spectators on the Memphis bluff. It brings to mind the moan that ached from every local sports bar in April 2014 when the Grizzlies lost Game Seven of their NBA playoff series with the Los Angeles Clippers.

Less than two hours long (between 5 and 7 a.m.), the Battle of Memphis was a textbook rout.

The Federal flotilla that had set out to capture Memphis and then head south to Vicksburg bore down on the city with five ironclad gunboats and several rams. The Confederate “River Defense Fleet” had eight boats with just two guns apiece.

Only one Confederate boat escaped, while just one Union boat was damaged. A single Union “casualty” had been shot in the leg, though he actually died weeks later of measles while in the hospital. The Confederate death toll, while low, was estimated at closer to a hundred. This crushing defeat cut off Memphis from New Orleans, giving Union forces control of the river all the way to Vicksburg. a v ersion of t his st ory or igina l ly a ppe a r ed in t he june 2012 issue of 32 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 9

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MEMPHIS

maga zine.

IMAGE COURTESY MEMPHIS AND SHELBY COUNT Y ROOM, BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

by christopher blank

3/18/19 4:41 PM

IMAGE COURTESY MEMPHIS AND SHELBY COUNT Y ROOM, BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

A Harper’s Weekly illustration shows the dramatic scene when Union forces raised the U.S. flag over the post office, much to the dismay of the crowds below.

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I

n Forrest Park, where the controversial general and his wife are entombed, a U.S. flag flutters perpetually over his grave.

Echoes of the Civil War remain scattered throughout this city. More than a thousand Confederate veterans, for example, are buried in Elmwood Cemetery, including at least 20 Confederate generals who had fought the good fight in what those officers and their immediate descendants always called “The War of Northern Aggression.” Today,

a carriage tour of Downtown Memphis can leave the false impression that Memphis was some kind of stronghold of the Confederacy. We never were, of course; the city was occupied immediately after the Battle of Memphis and played no further meaningful part in the war except as a Union logistics center.

But for decades this didn’t stop carriage drivers from steering their horse-drawn Cinderella coaches into Confederate Park, where they loop around the statue of Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederate States of America, whose bronze head now wears a seasonal caul of bird droppings. (President Davis did live here for several years after the war, until the insurance company he headed went bankrupt in the Panic of 1873.)

Down the road a bit, in front of what are now the Gayoso House Apartments, formerly the site of the grand Gayoso Hotel which burned to the ground in 1899, guides still tell the inaccurate legend of General Nathan Bedford Forrest riding his horse into the hotel’s lobby in 1864, when his cavalry raided the city during what is sometimes called the Second Battle of Memphis. This was even less of a real “battle” than the first one — a guerrilla raid designed to free prisoners and capture Union officers. Forrest’s bold action succeeded in neither, and was not repeated. (It was Forrest’s brother, William Forrest, by the way, who supposedly rode into the hotel.)

The dramatic mental image of a swashbuckling general on his noble steed was reinforced by his bronze likeness — also on horseback — a few blocks east on Union Avenue, in Forrest Park, where the Rebel leader threatened to charge into the Office Depot across the street, until the statue was removed in December 2017. Fittingly, perhaps, this statue has become a touchstone of how this city feels about its Civil War heritage. And how, 150 years after the Battle of Memphis, the issues of that age still percolate just below the surface.

I

n eighth grade, while studying the Civil War in history class, Lee Millar learned he had a relative who fought for the Confederacy. His father later took him to a Veterans Day parade, and he saw soldiers in gray uniforms. He became fascinated by military history. After finishing a stint in the U.S. Army, Millar got involved with Civil War reenactments. Now, both Union and Confederate uniforms hang in his closet. Though he has a Rebel heart, he doesn’t hesitate to take the field in blue. He recently played Union General Don Carlos Buell in a new documentary about the battle that can be seen at Shiloh National Military Park’s visitor center.

If locals who get involved in reliving history tend to have a preservationist — some might say conservative — attitude about how the Civil War is remembered in today’s Memphis, that’s at least partly because they’ve sampled the hardships that their forefathers endured, be it the discomfort of marching in oppressive Southern heat in woolen jackets

IMAGE COURTESY MEMPHIS AND SHELBY COUNT Y ROOM, BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

Then, as now, what really happened here in 1862 is a storyteller’s narrative, a compilation of often contradictory eyewitness accounts shaped as much by the observers — and the sons and daughters of the observers — as it is by the official record. It springs from the imaginations of those who woke early that morning to see the predawn sky filled with the smoke of the approaching Union fleet.

Residents hurried to the bluffs to watch their heroic but outgunned and outclassed Confederate defenders fight what one spectator called “the battle of the pygmies and the giants.”

With the Rebel fleet positioned between the city and the Yankee gunboats, thousands of onlookers were treated to a show made more exciting by errant cannonballs flying into downtown Memphis. One landed near the crowds of people watching from the Gayoso Hotel.

A 64-pound ball smashed into a house on Tennessee Street. Other cannonballs were picked up as souvenirs.

A Chicago Tribune reporter’s account of the explosion of the Confederate ram, the General M. Jeff Thompson, rivals in play-by-play the crash of the airship Hindenburg: “A mighty pillar of fire sprang from the burning hulk, lifted itself four hundred feet, spread out into an umbrella-like form of rolling, sulfuric clouds, folding in and rolling over and over in thick, heavy, creamy masses, filled with timbers, planks, bars of iron, fragments of charred timbers and coals of fire, cannon, shot and shell — all commingled — all raining down upon forest, field, and river, as if an avalanche or meteors of vast proportions had fallen from heaven through a cloudless sky to earth.”

Shortly after that explosion, the gods of war provided an even bigger surprise for spectators: a minor earthquake. It caused no damage, but it did give the editors of a Chicago newspaper license to quip that its cause was “the falling in of that misshapen structure called the Southern Confederacy.”

For the throngs of observers, then, this one-sided battle had thunder, spectacle, and earth-shaking excitement; the only thing missing was the Memphis Symphony Orchestra playing the “1812 Overture” and drunken crowds singing “Ol’ Man River.”

That would all come later. Much later.

An illustration from Harper’s Weekly shows the chaos of the 90-minute Battle of Memphis.

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and trousers, or having hundreds of Springfield rifles simultaneously standing in Memphis. The fact that their family members put up fired at them from the opposite side of a field. these memorials deepens this generation’s interest in preserving the That sense of sympathy, patriotism, and ancestor worship that tolandmarks. Prominent historians, as well, agonize over perceptions of day’s re-enactors feel for their subject matter helps explain the Civil the Civil War, and occasionally find themselves balancing progressive War tributes still standing in Memphis today. Both Confederate Park social attitudes with academic ideals.

According to Shelby Foote’s biographer C. Stuart Chapman, when and Forrest Park were created in the early 1900s as memorials, by people who felt strongly about the people they honored. the famed Civil War historian and Memphis resident finished his “A lot of Civil War veterans were still alive in the early 1900s,” novel September, September in 1977, he was concerned about its depiction Millar says. “There were two great affections at the time. First, they of African-Americans. He sent a copy of his book to the lawyer, and later circuit court judge, D’Army Bailey, whose columns he’d read in still considered themselves the underdogs. Second, they wanted to the newspaper, to make sure he “represented blacks properly.” Bailey honor those old veterans.” voiced his approval.

As Memphis grew and its demographics changed, however, those monuments have become, in some circles at least, negatively Though they became friends, Foote and Bailey later disagreed attached to Jim Crow, segregation, and Gone With the Wind on the racial overtones that enshroud Confederate history. Foote, antebellum nostalgia. Until both statues were removed who died in 2005 at age 88, never viewed the Confederate flag as in 2017, more than just pigeons took umbrage with the a racial affront and defended its appearance in state flags, images of Nathan Bedford Forrest and Jefferson Davis such as Mississippi’s. Bailey, however, sees only divisivethat evoke such divided memories in our community. ness in Rebel mementos, including local Confederate Members of the Shelby County Historical Comstatues and parks. mission and Memphis Heritage eternally lament the “I think those are abominations that need to be lack of sympathy their city has for old or aesthetic removed,” Bailey says today. “They deify and salute some of the most awful and inhuman characters in properties that have no immediate economic valhistory when it comes to decent treatment of blacks ue to the community. Memphis routinely entrusts as human beings.” the preservation of its landmarks to bulldozers and bronze plaques, regardless of what era of history It would be hard to characterize Bailey, who helped they represent. save the Lorraine Motel from demolition and founded Most recently, an architecturally significant 89-yearthe National Civil Rights Museum within its walls, old church on the corner of Cooper and Union was as anti-preservationist. But for him and other Afritorn down and replaced with a drugstore. By the time can-Americans, Confederate Park and Forrest Park For the throngs of enough locals fully appreciated the value of Memphis represent what he calls the “social and cultural isolasoul music from the 1960s, the original Stax Recording observers, then, this one- tionism of white Memphis society.”

Studio on McLemore Avenue had been demolished sided battle had thunder, “I think we can still be respectful of the importby its owners. At the Stax Museum of American Soul ant history we share as Americans and still take a spectacle, and earthMusic, the visitor stands not in the room where hismore decent and progressive view and stop idolizing tory was made, but instead in a replica that honors shaking excitement; the that war,” he says.

Years ago, Bailey passed by a large group of people the original room. only thing missing was Other older buildings are on the endangered list. The in Forrest Park wearing Confederate uniforms. “I Nineteenth Century Club on Union Avenue, the Chisca the Memphis Symphony walked right up in the middle of them, quite frankly, Hotel on South Front, and the Tennessee Brewery to see how they were going to react,” Bailey recalls.

Orchestra playing the overlooking the river have all fallen on hard times, and “Right there was an old friend of mine, Shelby Foote, “1812 Overture” and a man for whom I obviously have great admiration. I their survival is by no means certain. In 2000, the contents of the best-preserved relic of Civil War history in drunken crowds singing sat down and started talking to them. I recognize that Memphis were scattered to the winds. The antebellum we can still have a friendship so long as they recognize “Ol’ Man River.”

Hunt-Phelan Home on Beale Street had been passed that I’m as firm in my beliefs as they are in theirs. We all have to live in this community together. I think the winds of time down in the same family for five generations. General Ulysses S. Grant are in our favor. It’s more likely that they will have to change.” used it briefly as his headquarters during the war. In 1996, Bill Day, a descendant of the Phelans, tried opening the property as a tourist attraction. When that didn’t pay the bills, he was forced to auction off its historic artifacts, build condominiums on the grounds, and turn he Battle of Memphis was over before breakfast. the house into a restaurant and bed-and-breakfast, to the chagrin But the remainder of that day provides a ridiculously tragiof preservationists who tried, but failed, to raise funds to keep it all comic epilogue involving angry citizens, the mayor, and the together. For a time, the elegant restaurant thrived, but it closed in imposition of outsiders that seems to foreshadow just how the next 150 years of Civil War history in this city might evolve.

2011 after a storm damaged the roof. The building now awaits the next chapter of its long history, or, possibly, the wrecking ball.

After the fighting stopped and the smoke cleared, two Union naval For people like Audrey Rainey, the remaining vestiges of the Civil cadets and two sharpshooters under cover of a truce were sent ashore War in Memphis like the Hunt-Phelan Home should be better defendto raise a couple of Federal flags over the surrendered city. Some in ed. “Generally, I’m not a political person,” Rainey says. “My interest the large crowd that met them on the cobblestones at the river’s is in seeing things preserved as a tourist attraction. If I go to Boston edge threatened to kill the Yankees; others begged them to go back or Philadelphia, I’d be disappointed if I didn’t see Revolutionary War to their boats. sights. We keep these things around to learn from them.”

The foursome was directed to the mayor’s office, where again they were begged not to raise their flag over the city until they could be Rainey, an ad salesperson for the WHBQ radio station, whose great-grandfather fought in the war, is a member of both the Daughprotected by Union troops. As Navy men, however, the delegation ters of the American Revolution and the Daughters of the Confederdidn’t want the Army taking credit for winning the fifth-largest city acy. The latter group, along with the Sons of Confederate Veterans, of the Confederacy, so they marched toward the post office. helped bring about the monuments, park names, and statues now contin u ed on page 101

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martyrs memphis OF

When yellow fever hit Memphis in 1878, thousands died and thousands fled. A few stayed behind, and their brave deeds cost them their lives. by michael finger

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eath swarmed into Memphis on little wings that awful summer of 1878. Borne by a tiny mosquito, it flew into taverns and shops, bedrooms and parlors. No one could escape, for no one knew the cure — or the cause — of the dreaded fever. When the plague finally lifted in the fall, Memphis — once one of the fastest growing cities in the South — was a city of the dead. Entire blocks lay desolate and empty. Yellow fever had claimed more than 5,000 victims, and thousands fled the city, many never to return. But two priests and four sisters of St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral remained here to nurse the sick and comfort the dying. This is their story.

“A bayou divided the city, which was the receptacle of the contents of privies and water closets, [and] was sluggish and without current. Dead animals were decaying in many parts of it, and the pools which formed at the abutments of the several bridges were stagnant and covered with a scum of putridity, emitting a deadly effluvia.”

So wrote J.M. Keating, editor of the Memphis Appeal, in a book published about the epidemic in 1879. Despite the construction of a crude waterworks, most Memphians still drew their water from cisterns and wells and tossed their waste into Bayou Gayoso or onto the gravel streets, which Keating said were “reeking with the offal and excreta of ten thousand families.” When the Mississippi River flooded, bottomlands to the north and south of the city turned into breeding grounds for the Aedes aegypti mosquito — the deadly carrier of yellow fever.

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Left behind were still some 20,000 men, women, and children, but Since its founding, Memphis had endured outbreaks of smallpox, cholera, and dengue fever. An earlier epidemic of yellow fever in 1873 Memphis faded into a ghost town. Shops and offices were boarded killed some 2,000 people here. Certain citizens urged health precauup, houses locked and shuttered. An eerie silence smothered the city, tions and sanitary reforms, but they were casually ignored when the broken only by the occasional booming of cannons (fired to break up diseases passed. Editor Keating attacked such complacency: “We the “poisons” in the air), and the steady clop-clop of doctors’ wagfear the apathy and feeling of false security which an abatement of ons or carts hauling caskets. At night, smoldering fires of burning the disease induces. Another epidemic which prostrated our city will bedding and clothing — the last belongings of fever victims — lit annihilate it.” It was a hint of the the yellow-armbanded Howard disaster that would fall just five Association members, who scuryears later. ried from house to house aiding the sick.

The bad news came on July 27th, when newspapers reportVictims dropped dead in the ed yellow fever cases in New streets, and bodies were discovOrleans. In two weeks the disered each morning in the city’s ease spread northward as far as parks. Editorials in the Daily AvGrenada, Mississippi. Even then, alanche, still publishing though one local newspaper said there most of its staff was stricken, traced the deadly progress of was nothing to worry about: “Whenever yellow fever shows the epidemic. August 30th: “We itself, as is not at all likely, the are doomed. It is hard, as we board of health will promptly rewrite in this dark dismal hour port it. Keep cool! Avoid patent of death, not to realize the full medicines and bad whiskey. Go meaning of that brief sentence.” about your business as usual; be September 1st: “The King of cheerful, and laugh as much as Terrors continues to snatch vicpossible.” tims with fearful rapidity. Three Others decided that laughing short weeks ago our city was acThe four nuns of St. Mary’s who perished treating other victims during the in the face of certain death was tive with business of all classes 1878 yellow fever epidemic were laid to rest in Elmwood Cemetery. lunacy, so the city set up quaran… now our streets are deserttine stations along the railroads ed, our stores and residences and riverfront. It was too late. The first yellow fever death occurred empty.” September 5th: “Great God! How his murderous work has here on August 13th, followed by seven deaths on the 14th, 22 deaths increased. Those that are left are busy burying the dead.” September on the 15th, and 33 deaths on the 16th. Nobody was laughing now — 11th: “A stricken city. Alas, fair Memphis! What sights meet the eye of yellow fever had arrived. those who remain in your midst.”

One doctor later observed that the 1878 epidemic struck Memphis “with unusual malignity and unusual rapidity.” Often the first symptom was little more than a slight chill. Within hours, victims would t. Mary’s Cathedral, then a plain wooden church suffer headaches, temperatures as high as 106, a wildly erratic pulse, a on Poplar, stood as a beacon of hope amid the gloom, and two priests there — Charles Parsons and Louis Schuyler — played peculiar odor to the skin that smelled like “rotten hay,” and a yellowish heroic roles during the epidemic. They joined dozens of other church tinge to the skin and eyeballs. “A patient at this stage,” reported one members throughout the city who, along with the Howard AssociaMemphis doctor, “is restless, sighs, halloos, screams, attempts to get tion, died at their posts during the ordeal. up, falls about, half-conscious, and can’t tell why he cannot lie still, Parsons, a West Point graduate who served as a lieutenant colonel nor can he give any reason why he cries out.” Blood would ooze out of the skin, and the last stage of the disease was black vomit. After that, in the Union Army during the Civil War, was ordained a priest at death would come within days — sometimes hours.

St. Mary’s in 1872. That same year, the Episcopal Bishop of TennesDoctors had no clue. One St. Louis physician believed that “yellow see persuaded the Community of St. Mary in Peekskill, New York, fever was persistent in the form of dry particles of dust everywhere.” to send several nuns to Memphis to open a school and manage an A Texas doctor concluded that the fever was a “subtle poison that orphanage. The first St. Mary’s sisters — Constance (the Superior), explodes in the air.” All they knew was that it came in the summer Thecla, Hughetta, and Amelia — arrived in Memphis in 1873. When Amelia’s health failed, she was replaced by Sister Frances, who came and unaccountably faded in the fall. here in 1877.

Most cures were absurdly worthless. A Kentucky doctor advised his patients to remain horizontal, with their feet in a tub of hot waWhen the epidemic hit in 1878, Constance and Thecla were traveling ter. To stop the black vomit, he recommended sticking leeches on in New York and quickly returned to Memphis. By their arrival on the stomach. A Louisville physician fumigated patients’ rooms with August 20th, the disease was out of control, sweeping through the camphor. “My theory is a plain remedy,” he wrote. “If it does not cure, densely populated sections of the city between the river and Bayou then it cannot kill.”

Gayoso. Constance wrote in her journal about her arrival: “A strange and sad Sunday. Sister Thecla found three unknown persons insensible and without attendants on High Street.” he only sure prevention was escape. Within 10 By this time, the city government and board of health ceased to days of the first yellow fever death in Memphis, more than half exist; yellow fever cut the police force from 41 to 7; it was survival of the fittest for the thousands who stayed behind. Constance and her the population fled the city in a panic. They left “by every possible conveyance — by hacks, carriages, buggies, wagons, furniture sisters set up a soup kitchen and began 24-hour visits to families hit by vans, and street drays,” wrote Keating. “By anything that could float the fever. The Citizens Relief Organization asked the sisters to open on the river, and by the railroads. The stream of passengers seemed the Canfield Asylum outside of town as a refuge for children orphaned endless, and they seemed to be as mad as they were many.” by the disease. When Constance, a few days later, attempted to take

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PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL FINGER

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children there she met an angry mob, terrified that the nuns were a two-room cottage with the unburied bodies of their parents, their bringing the infection into their neighborhood. Constance faced them uncle in the utmost suffering and delirium, and no one near them. It down: “Sirs, is it possible you would have us refuse to these children the was twenty-four hours before I could get those fearful corpses buried, very protection you have obtained for your own? We do not propose and then I had to send for a police officer … before any undertaker to make a hospital of the asylum.” The men let her pass. Within four would enter that room.” days, Constance and her sisters placed more than 50 orphans there.

Some of the episodes were grimly humorous. Keating tells that the The death toll rose to more than 200 a day, and the situation seemed sexton of St. Patrick’s Church was screwing down the lid of a coffin hopeless. Parsons wrote to the bishop: “It is impossiwhen the person inside “opened his eyes and asked ble. Go and turn the Destroying Angel loose upon him, ‘What are you doing?’ A little trepidated, if not consternated, they lifted him from his close confinea defenseless city; let him smite who he will, young and old, rich and poor, the feeble and the strong … ment and put him into bed.” and then you can form some idea of what Memphis On another occasion, Constance wrote, “I saw a and this valley is.” nurse stop [an undertaker’s cart] today and ask for a certain man’s residence. The driver pointed over his The New York church decided to send two more nuns to St. Mary’s in August. This was good news, but shoulder with his whip at the heap of coffins behind him and answered, ‘I’ve got him here in his coffin.’”

Constance wrote to the Mother Superior in New York, When the yellow fever “I will guard them to the utmost, but you know and I Most of those coffins were bound for Elmwood epidemic was over, 200 know that they are offering their lives.” Two nuns — Cemetery, where the dead lay unburied for days while Ruth and Helen — responded to the request for help crews worked day and night to dig graves. The only towns and cities across remedy was to bury the victims in mass, anonymous in Memphis. Ruth wrote to a friend: “The telegram the South lay wasted. came, asking for more helpers, before I had time to plots. “On Sunday last, it would have made one’s heart The disease had infected ache to have seen a gentleman searching for the lost offer myself; but the Mother has chosen me, and you know how gladly and unreservedly I give myself to more than 100,000 people, grave of his wife at Elmwood Cemetery,” wrote Keatour dear Lord. Pray for me, that in life, in death, I may ing. “He had purchased a private grave, but it cannot causing some 20,000 be ever His own.” be found, and the horrible belief that his wife had When they arrived in Memphis, the new nuns prob- deaths — more than 5,000 been buried in a trench or ditch haunted the unforably felt they had come to hell on earth. “The city is tunate man as he wandered around, searching and in Memphis alone. desolate,” wrote Ruth. “Everyone who is not ill says, ‘It weeping. He had flowers to strew on the grave, but he searched in vain. The grave was lost.” is only a matter of time.’” Money and other aid trickled in from other cities, chiefly in the North, but it was little help. “Money The sisters’ work was endless. “I just crawled home and fairly is quite useless,” wrote Ruth. “There is plenty of money here, but it buys dropped into bed, first time in three nights,” wrote Constance. “Sisno head to plan, no hands to wash, nor the common necessaries of life.” ter Thecla sick all night.” And it was frustrating: “We can easily say, Doctors and nurses died one by one, and druggists closed. It was in this sad world, Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord,” wrote becoming impossible to obtain the most basic items. “We are helpless Ruth, “but it is very, very hard to say, Thy will be done.” and do not know what to do nor how help can come,” wrote Ruth.

“There are nearly fifty children here now [in the orphanage]; we have no clean clothes, and it is utterly impossible to get any washing done. he hard work soon took its toll. On September There is no one to send for supplies, and no stores are open.”

2nd, Parsons became ill with the fever and was put to bed.

Each day brought new grief. One evening, a member of the HowConstance visited him and wrote, “He was very cheerful. I ard Association heard a woman singing as he passed a house in the offered to do him some little service, such as fanning him, or putsuburbs. When he looked inside, ting up the mosquito net, but he he saw that she was pacing back said quickly, ‘No, no, I beg you and forth across the room, holdnot; indeed, I could not let you ing a child to her breast. A closer fatigue yourself. I looked at his look showed the baby had been nurse; she whispered: ‘Let him dead several days. The Howard have his way; I never saw anyone visitor gently took the child from so unselfish as he is.’” the woman and had it buried; the She wrote later, “Mr. Parsons poor mother was taken to an asyhad a chill this evening. I shall lum, “where she is a confirmed know before twelve whether it lunatic, and paces the ward with was THE chill.” Her fears were a bundle in her arms, crooning a soon confirmed. The sisters lullaby to what she imagines is watched over Parsons fretfully, her living babe.” but he died on September 7th.

A family on McKinley Street Two days later, one of the other sent a note to the Howards, begnuns found Constance resting on ging, “For God’s sake come and a sofa in the parlor of St. Mary’s and summoned a doctor. “I have help us, we are all dying!” Keating related that the Howard member not the fever,” she protested to who went to their aid “found a him. “It is only a bad headache; it A stained-glass window at All Saints Chapel at the University of the South in child had been dead a day, and will go off at sunset.” Ruth tried Sewanee pays tribute to Sister Constance and the Martyrs of Memphis. all of the family were sick without to put Constance to bed, but she any attendance whatever.” refused: “It is the only comfortThe nuns of St. Mary’s had their share of horrors. Sister Constance able one in the house, and if I have the fever, you will have to burn it.” wrote: “Yesterday I found two young girls, who had spent two days in Within the hour, Sister Thecla returned to the church after a death-

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT BUTLER, COURTESY UNIVERSIT Y OF THE SOUTH

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bed visit to a poor woman and told the others, “I am so sorry, Sister, but I have the fever. Give me a cup of tea, and I shall go to bed.” By the next morning, both sisters were dreadfully ill. Constance became delirious. Ruth wrote: “All through that night I could hear from my room her low moan. At about midnight she exclaimed ‘Hosanna,’ repeating it again and again more faintly. That was her last word.”

On the morning of September 9th, Ruth reported that Constance’s soul “entered the Paradise of Perfect Love.” She continued: “She was but thirty-three years old when called away; a woman of exquisite grace, tenderness, and loveliness of character, very highly educated, and one who might have adorned the most brilliant social circle. All that she had she gave without reserve to her Lord.”

Sister Thecla remained conscious until the end. One day a friend went to visit her, and

Left behind were 20,000 men, women, and children, but Memphis faded into a ghost town. Shops and offices were boarded up, houses locked and shuttered. An eerie silence smothered the city, broken only by the steady clop-clop of doctors’ wagons or carts hauling caskets.

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Thecla opened her eyes with some consternation: “Oh, why did you come? I was thinking of heavenly things.” She closed her eyes again, and murmured, “I was with Jesus, and you have disturbed me.” She died on September 12th.

Sister Ruth was the next victim. Just 26 years old, she had been a nun only a year. “But in this one year,” wrote another sister, “she has brought comfort to many suffering ones, and helped to lead back those who had strayed far out of the way. Many of the poor speak of her as the ‘Sunbeam’ that came to brighten their lives.” Ruth died on September 17th.

Sister Frances had been in charge of the orphanage home — a task that grew more difficult when the other sisters became ill.

She caught the fever in August, and recovered, but suffered a relapse on October 1st; she died just three days later. “The children were all so fond of Sister Frances, ” wrote one of the sisters. “Charlie goes out by himself to lay flowers on the grave, and stands looking so pitifully upon it; he is the oldest boy of the home.”

There was one final martyr of St. Mary’s.

Father Louis Schuyler reported for duty in Memphis after Parsons died. Instead of staying at a hotel outside the fever district, Schuyler insisted on remaining at St. Mary’s so he could “go into the very thick of the pestilence in the lower portion of the city.” He couldn’t

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attend Sister Constance’s funeral because he wanted to visit some sick children in the neighborhood. After only four days of constant labor, Schuyler fell ill with fever, and died on September 17th.

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he frost finally came exactly one month later, killing the mosquitos and ending the worst epidemic in our city’s history. When it was over, 200 towns and cities across the South lay wasted. Yellow fever had infected more than 100,000 people, causing some 20,000 deaths — more than 5,000 in Memphis alone. Our city, one of the hardest hit, was so devastated that it lost its charter. Another wave of yellow fever swept through the next year, with smaller epidemics

By this time, the city government and board of health ceased to exist.

Yellow fever cut the police force from 41 to 7, and it was survival of the fittest for the thousands who stayed behind.

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every year after that, but nothing compared to the devastation of 1878. It wasn’t until 1900 that Dr. Walter Reed, an American army surgeon working in Cuba, finally discovered that mosquitos were the source of the plague.

Out of the death and chaos, the noble work performed by the priests and nuns of St. Mary’s lives on. “We say sometimes in cynical wrath that all truth and justice have departed out of this world,” said a September 25, 1878, editorial in the New York Tribune. “But those poor Sisters lying dead in Memphis are an all-sufficient refutation of our pessimistic generalities. This generous giving ought to silence, for a time at least, the snarls of the misanthropists. It is strange that so much dying should prove to us that the world is worth living in.”

Today, the massive altar in St. Mary’s Cathedral bears the names of the sisters who died in 1878 (along with Sister Hughetta, who survived the epidemic and died in 1922).

A brass wall plaque and stained-glass window are further tributes to the sisters and to Parsons and Schuyler. In 1985, the Episcopal Church gave them a lasting tribute, adding “The Martyrs of Memphis, Constance and Her Companions” to the church’s Calendar of Lesser Feasts and Fasts. The feast day is observed on September 9th each year.

In Elmwood Cemetery, a simple shaft marks the double graves of both Parsons and Schuyler. Nearby, four names and dates are carved around the perimeter of a flat stone tablet: Constance, Sept. 9; Thecla, Sept. 12; Ruth, Sept. 17: Frances, Oct. 4 — the last resting place of the Martyrs of Memphis.

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1902 — More than 3,000 Memphians thrill to the sights and sounds of “Admiral Dewey’s Victory at Santiago” featuring “the realistic destruction of the Spanish fleet” and even “The Last Days of Pompeii” — both elaborate fireworks extravaganzas at East End, our city’s first amusement park. The highlight is “a startling representation of the destruction of Pompeii by the volcano Vesuvius, achieved by ingenious electrical, stereopticon, and pyrotechnic contrivances.” All this in Midtown, remember.

1945 — At the age of 17, Lura Grubb

dies and goes to heaven. Or so she says. The wife of the Rev. Paul Grubb, founder of Memphis’ Faith Temple in Midtown, writes a book about her journey and tours the country telling what she saw during her miraculous visit to heaven. Among other marvels, she says, the angels wore “sheer, cobwebby robes.”

1929 — Stuntman Freddie Lund,

the “Bronco Buster of the Skies,” keeps the crowds oohing and aahing as part of the aerial events, which include a flyover by 100 planes, to celebrate the grand opening of the brand-new Memphis Municipal Airport.

ILLUSTRATION BY GREG CRAVENS

1922 — A massive chunk of the bluff slides into the Mississippi River, taking with it buildings and a Frisco Railroad locomotive. This prompts the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to build Riverside Drive. When “the most expensive highway in the world,” opens in 1935, it stabilizes the bluff and turns derelict property and dumping grounds into a beautiful traffic artery for downtown.

1923 — When the Grand Opera House opened at Beale and Main, the newspaper applauded a production by the Grand English Opera Company as “the most brilliant theatrical and social success in the history of Memphis.” But when the beautiful limestone building is consumed by fire on the night of October 16, 1923, legend has it that one of the victims, a young girl named Mary, still occupies seat C-5 in the Orpheum, the theatre that replaced it.

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through fellowship and growth. Our purpose today is the same as it was in the beginning—to meet the needs of our community and bring about meaningful change. Since 1855, we have been uniting people from all walks of life and responding to society’s most pressing needs by developing innovative, community-based solutions like our Safety Around Water program and Swim Lessons to eliminate drowning, YMCA Before & Afterschool and Summer Camp to promote learning in a safe and caring environment, and Y-CAP and the Y Summer Reading Program to help close the achievement gap. With these programs and more, we’re working side by side with our neighbors to continue to move individuals and families forward.

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A Determined

QUEST forQ

Equalityc

How Ida b. Wells battled Jim Crow in Memphis. by linda peavey and ursula smith

a v ersion of this story origina lly a ppe a red in the june 1983 issue of

MEMPHIS

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IDA B. WELLS PHOTOGRAPH IS IN THE PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES

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da B. Wells was on a swing through Mississippi during the spring of 1892, seeking subscriptions for the Free Speech, Memphis’ only black newspaper. On March 10th, she was in Natchez when the bad news caught up with her. Back home in Memphis, Tom Moss, Calvin McDowell, and Will Stewart had just been lynched.

Moss, McDowell, and Stewart were business partners; they owned a majority interest in Peoples’ Grocery, one of the city’s few black-owned businesses, which had only recently set up shop near the corner of Walker and Mississippi. Ida knew them well: She was the godmother to Tom and Betty Moss’ daughter.

Now her three friends were dead. They had been spirited from the Shelby County Jail, the sketchy reports indicated, loaded on a switch engine on the rail line that ran behind that building, carried a mile north of the city limits, and shot.

Boarding the train for her return trip to Memphis, the 30-year-old civil rights leader was deeply hurt. But she wasn’t surprised. It wasn’t the first time that black Americans had suffered at the hands of white mobs. Nor was it the first time that Judge Charles Lynch’s rough form of frontier justice had been applied to totally inappropriate situations. Nor would it be the last. But Wells was determined that somehow, someway, the madness would cease.

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later reversed in Tennessee’s Supreme Court, on the grounds that her intention had been to cause trouble for the railroad, rather than to claim a comfortable seat for herself.

Wells felt the reversal keenly. As she later wrote, she had “firmly believed all along that the law was on our side and would, when we appealed to it, give us justice.” After the court’s reversal, she was, she wrote, “shorn of that belief and utterly discouraged.”

But discouragement did not lead to apathy. Spurred by a need to tell the story of her experiences with the railroad, she began writing articles for the Free Speech, Rev. Nightingale’s newspaper.

As Wells’ writing drew more and more attention, she accepted an invitation to go into partnership with Rev. Nightingale and J.L. Fleming, an Arkansas journalist, though for several years she had to maintain her teaching position to support herself. But in 1891, one of her more strident editorials (on the inequalities of the city’s segregated school system) cost her that job, so she was forced to rely upon the Free Speech as her sole source of income.

That loss was the Free Speech’s gain. Wells turned to neighboring cities and states, soliciting subscriptions and advertisements, and the paper prospered. She was named the most prominent correspondent for the American black press at a national convention, and the Free Speech became a respected voice within the local black community.

or 20 years after the bloody 1866 race riots that marked the ending of the Civil War in Memphis, the city had enjoyed an uneasy racial peace. But by the late 1880s, the balance was beginning to tilt back in the direction of white supremacy. “The young men of today say, ‘We are going to work this out,’” Memphis’ Weekly Avalanche editorialized in 1889, “‘and the North can do all the howling it wants.’” Caged for two decades, Jim Crow was ready once again to test his wings.

Slowly but surely, the white establishment reasserted its authority. Assisted by the federal government’s attitude of benign neglect on racial matters, white Memphis took complete control over black. In 1887 the last three black representatives in the state legislature — all from Shelby County — were replaced by whites.

Nearly a century would pass before blacks were once again active participants in state and local politics.

There were voices of protest, however, the most strident emanating from offices in the basement of Beale Street Baptist Church, whose minister, the Rev. Taylor Nightingale, was also the publisher of the Free Speech. In that newspaper, an editorialist known to readers as “Iola” took direct aim at Mr. Crow. “The dailies of our city say that the whites must rule this country,” she wrote in 1889. “But that is an expression without a thought … for the Negro of today is not the same as Negroes were thirty years ago, and it can’t be expected that the Negro of today will take what was t was as a leader of the community forced upon him thirty years ago.” that Ida Wells returned home to Memphis in By 1890 Ida B. Wells had “Iola” was in fact Ida Wells, who by 1890 had become March of 1892, too late to attend one of the largest the most eloquent spokesperson for civil rights in become the most eloquent funeral processions the city had ever witnessed. She hurried to the Moss residence, to console his widow Memphis. In her columns, she attacked blacks who spokesperson for civil and piece together the events that led to the lynching had betrayed “the cause” as vehemently as she conof Moss and his colleagues. demned white supremacists. And her reputation was rights in Memphis. spreading beyond Memphis and the Mid-South. Her The violence had its roots in tension between the articles were carried by black newspapers outside the South, papers black owners of Peoples’ Grocery and W.H. Barrett, proprietor of a like The New York Age, the Detroit Plaindealer, and the Indianapolis World. white-owned grocery that stood across the street. The area around And the image she was projecting of a city torn by racism — where Walker and Mississippi was nearly all black; many locals had begun lynchings remained the white community’s answer to the problem of shopping at People’s, and there were often angry words between Bar“Negro crime” — was hardly one of which any chamber of commerce rett and the proprietors of Peoples’ and even physical confrontations. would approve.

After several skirmishes, the white grocer persuaded the Shelby Born in 1862 in Holly Springs, Mississippi, Ida Wells was the oldest County Grand Jury to indict the owners of Peoples’ Grocery for of eight children born to Jim and Elizabeth Wells; her father, a slave, maintaining a public nuisance and shut down their store. Furious, was in fact the illegitimate son of his owner. The year Ida turned 16, neighborhood blacks held a meeting at which one speaker suggested the yellow fever epidemic swept down from Memphis through Holly it was time to dynamite the “damned white trash.” News of that threat Springs, claiming both her parents as victims, and leaving her to gave Barrett the grounds he needed to secure warrants for the arrest of the speakers, on charges of conspiring against whites. assume sole responsibility for rearing the five siblings who survived.

Barrett spread rumors that a group of whites was planning retaliWells was luckier than most of her peers, however; she had attended ation against Peoples’ Grocery. Armed against the promised attack, Rust Institute and found work as a schoolteacher, first in a rural school some six miles from Holly Springs, then, around 1882, in a school in Tom Moss, his partners, and several neighbors waited in the darkened rural Shelby County. She moved to Memphis for the latter job, and it store. Long after closing and with no word of identification, nine men was a job-related incident that led to her first display of civil rights in civilian clothes, later identified as sheriff’s deputies dispatched to militancy. serve the warrants, stormed the back door. The blacks opened fire.

Each day Wells rode the Chesapeake & Ohio line from her home Three of the lawmen were wounded. Most of the black defenders fled, in the city to the school where she taught in Woodstock. On May 4, but Moss, McDowell, and Stewart were arrested and imprisoned. It was late Saturday, March 5, 1892.

1884, she boarded the train and made her way to the ladies’ coach.

The conductor, prompted by recent nullification of civil rights laws

By Sunday morning, tension was running high throughout the city, in Tennessee, asked her to move to the smoking car. Angered by his and armed whites roamed the streets. Not since 1866 had the city’s orders, she refused. When he tried to force her to move, she bit his racial climate turned quite so sour. hand and attached herself all the more firmly to her seat.

On Tuesday night, a group of men, later identified as designated Physical force prevailed that day; the conductor, with the aid of deputies, entered the jail and took Moss, McDowell, and Stewart the baggage-man, removed her from the car. But her defeat was only from their cells. At 3 a.m. on March 9, 1892, on a vacant lot beside the Chesapeake & Ohio tracks outside of town, they shot the three men temporary. She filed suit against the Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad.

She won her case (and a $500 award in damages) but the decision was to death and mutilated McDowell’s body. An eyewitness filed a report

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with one Memphis paper that held up its Wednesday morning press run to give its readers the details of the event.

The black community spoke of revenge, but even the most militant knew that reprisals were useless — white Memphis held the power and the guns. “Tell my people to go West — there’s no justice for them here.” Those, reportedly, were Tom Moss’ last words.

A black mass meeting near Walker and Mississippi, echoing the lynched man’s sentiments, overwhelmingly approved a resolution urging westward emigration. In the columns of the Free Speech, Wells threw her support behind the scheme. “The city of Memphis has demonstrated that neither character nor standing avails the Negro if he dares to protect himself against the white man or become his rival.

There is nothing we can do about lynching now, as we are out-numbered and without arms. … There is therefore only one thing left we can do: save our money and leave a town which will neither protect our lives and property nor give us a fair trial in the courts.”

“On to Oklahoma” became a rallying cry; over the next month some 2,000 blacks fled across the Mississippi, seeking freedom from fear and hoping that an abandoned city would regret the loss of their dollars. Among those who went west was Wells, who wanted to see firsthand if people would find conditions of life improved there. From Oklahoma she wrote to the Free Speech weekly, telling her readers of the opportunities she saw there.

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Public patience with Ida Wells — white public patience, that is — had indeed evaporated. Her statements fanned another mob into action, and on May 27th the offices of the Free Speech were burned out. Wells was in New York City that night; J.L. Fleming, the paper’s editor, had been forewarned and was also out of town, but the white mob that gathered outside the vandalized offices promised to lynch both journalists should they ever again appear in Memphis.

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ells became a virtual exile. She stayed in the North; for some months she wrote for The New York Age. Then, in early 1893, she accepted an offer to tour the British Isles. It was an important turning point in her career. In Europe she became an international celebrity. She found audiences who listened, spellbound, to her accounts of lynch-mob brutality, newspapers that made those accounts available to the masses, and churches that agreed to censure their American counterparts that remained silent in the face of such injustice.

The Manchester Guardian was impressed. “Her quiet, refined manner, her intelligence and earnestness, her avoidance of all oratorical tricks, and her dependence upon the simple eloquence of facts makes her a powerful and convincing advocate,” that paper noted in 1893. In London, after speaking before members of Parliament, Wells was assured that the weight of British public opinion endorsed the right of a fair trial for every Southern black. She was instrumental in the formation of the London Anti-Lynching Committee, which held a treasury of 5,000 pounds for the purpose of investigating and publicizing the persecution of Southern blacks.

On her tours of the British Isles in 1893 and 1894, Wells made special mention of Memphis. She had an account to settle with the white communtiy here, and the city, unmoved by her rhetoric, continued to provide graphic, brutal illustrations for her speeches. On July 22, 1893, for example, several thousand watched as a Saturday night crowd broke into the Shelby County Jail and seized Lee Walker, an accused rapist. His throat was cut, he was hanged, and his body was set ablaze. Ten hours before this outrage, the Chicago Inter-Ocean had received a telegram advising them that a black man was to be burned and inviting them to “send Miss Ida Wells to write it up.”

ells next turned her fact-finding fervor in another direction: She began to gather all the evidence she could on lynchings. Her work went beyond the writing of letters and the searching of legal records. As soon as Wells received word of a lynching, she made a personal visit to the site, asking both blacks and whites to tell all they knew about the tragedy and the reasons behind it.

In town after town across the South, she searched out the truth.

Lynchings had long been condoned by whites as fit punishment for a black who ravished a white woman.

The editor of Memphis’ Appeal-Avalanche had written in 1891 that though lynching might be in violation of the written law, “there is a higher law which provides that the rapist must pay the penalty with his life.” But Wells suggested that in recorded cases of lynching — and the number since the Civil War approached The World War I era 10,000 — less than one-third of the victims had been accused of assaulting white women. found Wells actively And what of those so charged? Why were their he black activist, of course, was an involved in the crimes punished by a lynching mob when the assault ocean away. But her efforts in Europe were of black women by white men had never drawn such beginning to reap dividends. The British textile suffragette campaign. punishment? A crime deserving capital punishment industry, after all, was a major customer of Memphis’ In 1913 she founded the when committed by black men drew no public outcry cotton merchants, and the international attention Alpha Suffrage Club, when visited upon black women by white men. which Wells focused upon the city’s foul racial climate This flagrant double-standard was the subject of was not helping the local economy. While some condedicated to winning many Wells editorials. Then, in May of 1892, she went tinued to support lynchings, others were beginning to still further, intimating that some of the “rapes” may the right to vote for black question the practice, on pragmatic if not humanitarian grounds. “Already the press and pulpit of Britain have been voluntary liaisons between black men and women. She and her white women, observing that “nobody in this section are thundering against us,” the Commercial noted after colleagues marched side of the country believes the old threadbare lie that the Walker lynching, “and Memphis has been held up by side in Chicago with to them as an illustration of barbarism and savagery.”

Negro men rape white women. If Southern white men are not careful, they will over-reach themselves and In September 1894, shortly after Wells had rewhite suffragettes. public sentiment will have a reaction; a conclusion will turned from her second British tour, six black men then be reached which will have a very damaging effect on the moral accused of arson were lynched by another white Memphis mob. reputation of their women.”

This time white political and business leaders raised their voices in Wells had gone too far this time. The white press was outraged. outrage. At a public meeting in the Merchant’s Exchange, resolu“There are some things the Southern white man will not tolerate,” the tions condemned lynching unequivocally and called for the appreCommercial responded, “and the obscene intimations of the foregoing hension and punishment of the murderers of the six. The recently have brought the writer to the outermost limit of public patience.” contin u ed on page 101

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Mr. CRUMP

BOSS by kenneth neill

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t was New Year’s Eve, 1939, and all over town Memphians were preparing to give 1940 a hearty welcome. The public mood was even more festive than usual, given the fact that a gentle snowfall was doing its best to blanket the city.

Crowds were gathering at the usual holiday spots, but the largest one in town could be found at an unlikely New Year’s location: the railroad station at Main and Calhoun. The Panama Special was due in at 12:16 a.m. and would pick up hundreds of passengers for New Orleans, where Tulane and Texas A&M would do football battle in the Sugar Bowl on the following afternoon. But most of those who flocked to the station came without suitcases. They came not to travel, but to witness the trackside inauguration of Edward Hull Crump as the next mayor of Memphis.

Some of the spectators on the platform were old enough to remember Crump’s previous mayoral service, way back between 1909 and 1916. But now the man everyone called simply “Mr. Crump” was the Godfather of Tennessee politics, a man who controlled virtually every public office in Shelby County and basically selected governors, senators, and congressmen for the state. Why in the world did he have any interest in holding so “minor” a position as that of Memphis’ city mayor?

a v ersion of this story origina lly a ppe a red in the october 1979 issue of

MEMPHIS

maga zine.

CRUMP PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MEMPHIS AND SHELBY COUNT Y ROOM, BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

The Making of a

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CRUMP PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MEMPHIS AND SHELBY COUNT Y ROOM, BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

New Year’s Eve, 1939: At Central Station, E.H. Crump celebrates his unique third term as Memphis mayor before boarding the train for the Sugar Bowl game in New Orleans.

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Crump had his reasons, reasons which had led to this, the most For two decades, between 1928 and 1948, the Crump organization bizarre election in Memphis political history. He had quarreled badly did not lose a single election that it contested on the city, county, with the outgoing mayor, Watkins Overton, a former protégé who had or state level.

Memphis had its City Hall, and Nashville had its State Capitol, but “turned on The Boss” and thus was, needless to say, not a candidate over these two decades, no one dared to act in either place without for reelection. Crump’s choice as Overton’s successor was Walter first consulting “the man on the corner” of Main and Adams, where Chandler, Memphis’ able young congressman (and the father of Wyeth, the insurance agency of E.H. Crump and Co. had its headquarters. then a 10-year-old future Memphis mayor). But since the city charter forbade federal office holders from running for municipal positions, But all political machines are the product of humans, and the Mr. Crump devised an unusual stratagem that one assembled by Crump in Memphis was would save Chandler the trouble of actually no exception. It did not burst upon the scene having to run for the office. overnight; nor did it hum perfectly from That fall, Crump had announced that he the outset. Mr. Crump’s career did have its would run for mayor, calling himself a “pinch roller-coaster aspects. As the decades have hitter” for Congressman Chandler. After the passed and most Memphians barely rememelection he would step aside, and “allow” the ber his name, many have forgotten that he city commissioners, all Crump loyalists, to was the only twentieth-century Memphis appoint Chandler as his replacement. mayor forced from office by the courts in 1916 This curious election-by-proxy went exactly because of his failure to enforce state law. as planned. Candidate Crump received 31,825 In the end, however, Mr. Crump triumphed. votes; as usual, there was no opposition. Now, The big question is how. How did Boss Crump on New Year’s Eve, The Boss beamed and become one of the most powerful political waved to the crowd as he prepared to take the figures in America? How was he able to make oath of office. He was 66. His great shock of his own name synonymous with the political hair had long since lost the bright color that fortunes of Memphis and Tennessee? And had earned him his “Red Snapper” sobriquet. how was this country boy from Holly Springs, But he still had the same bushy eyebrows, Mississippi, able to build for himself a Southern political empire? standing tall and erect on the station platform, nattily dressed as always.

People in the crowd threw icy snowballs at each other, while Crump chatted amiably t all began with business. with some of his lieutenants: Ed Hale, longHad Crump not succeeded in that realm, time master of Shelby County government; it is most unlikely that he would have “As he rode on casual journeys Joe Boyle, organization man par excellence; resurfaced on the political scene after being driven from office in 1916. As it was, howevand Kenneth D. McKellar, Tennessee’s senior through his domain, he watched the senator and Crump’s junior partner in the er, Crump’s first decade in the Bluff City is pavement as sharply as a kingfisher administration of state government. straight out of Horatio Alger. Born in 1874, hunting shiners; his pink face lighted The ceremonies were over almost as soon he arrived in Memphis in the 1890s and rose as they had begun. “Mayor” Crump took his rapidly from a bookkeeper’s position with a at the first sign of recognition. If people horse-carriage firm to the presidency of the oath of office and immediately resigned; he turned, he snatched a wide-brimmed exchanged a few pleasantries with Congresssame company seven short years later, in 1903. man Chandler, his soon-to-be appointed sucThe young man had talent, no doubt about it. grey hat from his ear-long white locks, And not just for making money. cessor. Then, after a last wave and a smile for nodded majestically as if thousands the crowd, Crump and his entourage boarded Having risen so fast in business, Crump cheered, and cranked down the car the Sugar Bowl-bound Special. The train was began to dabble in politics. This was the 17 minutes late leaving Memphis.

Progressive Era, when reformers across the window with incredible dexterity to Chandler was not among the football faithcountry were attacking corruption in city polbawl, ‘Hiya, boy!’ He beamed as voices ful; he stayed in town for his official elevaitics and advocating more orderly, businesstion as mayor on the day after New Year’s. like approaches to urban government. Crump lifted in startled salutation.

Perhaps he needed some time by himself to cast his lot with the reformers, and in 1905, ‘They like me,’ he said. ‘To have a contemplate his strange rise to the city’s highhe was elected to the Board of Public Works friend, be a friend. Some say live and as part of a clean sweep by the Progressives. est office. The congressman had enjoyed his At first the new board member kept a dethree terms in Washington and had never let live. I say live and help live.’ ” expressed any interest in being mayor. Incidedly low profile. But appearances were de— T ime m aga zin e , M ay 27, 19 46 deed, he only learned of his “candidacy” for ceiving. “As a businessman,” Crump remarked that office after Crump had made the official years later, “I have always sought to plan my press announcement. work and then work out my plan.” He took the same approach to Perhaps Chandler was already yearning for his old place on the politics. Even at this early stage, he had begun laying the foundations House floor. But even if he did, he knew only too well that neither for what followed. His first political aide was longtime friend Frank position was really his own in the first place.

Rice, who would later become Crump’s de facto chief of staff. Rice was ideally suited for the rough-and-tumble world of ward politics; an organizational wizard, he knew exactly when to shake hands and or much of the first half of the twentieth when to twist arms. When there was dirty work to be done, young century, Edward Hull Crump was the unquestioned master of Mr. Crump always knew he could count upon Rice to do it.

Memphis and Tennessee government. Time magazine described Meanwhile, the rising politico was building a public image that contin u ed on page 54 him in 1946 as “the most absolute political boss in the United States.”

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C RU M P c o n t i n u e d f r o m p a g e 5 2 would serve him well in the future. As a newly elected member of the Fire and Police Commission in 1907, Crump hurled invective at the police chief (“I say that you are absolutely incompetent,” he fumed on several occasions) and won a reputation as a staunch opponent of organized crime.

He also came out strongly in support of another important Progressive cause of the times: public ownership of municipal utilities. Over the next several decades, he conducted a running feud with local power companies that only ended when the city bought them all out and founded MLGW in 1939.

But Crump’s most immediate concern, and the one which gained him the widest popular support, was changing the structure of city government. Like most Progressives of the period, Crump advocated a shift to the commission form of government, whereby citizens elected individual department heads as well as the mayor. It was felt that this would make for less corruption and more efficient government.

Since only the state legislature could change the city charter, the battle for commission government had to be fought in Nashville, not Memphis. The legislature approved the proposal in early 1909, thanks largely to the lobbying efforts of Crump and his colleagues. He returned to Memphis as a conquering hero (one newspaper referred to him as “general in command” of the pro-commission forces), and to no one’s surprise he shortly announced his candidacy for mayor in the forthcoming elections.

candidate tried to provide food and drink on election day, along with the hard cash required for voting.

As a product of its times, the Crump organization employed many of these tactics, in white as well as black neighborhoods. But when Williams demanded a recount, perusal of the 1909 ballots revealed a much higher incidence of fraud on the side of the Old Guard. Williams dropped his suit, and Crump was firmly placed in the municipal driver’s seat.

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he new mayor of Memphis immediately went on the offensive, attacking the more obvious of the city’s problems like a whirling dervish. While Crump was anything but a socialist, he did make significant improvements upon the structure of Memphis urban government, which won him wide popular support. Fire and police services were streamlined, parks were built, and health facilities were improved, all while the city tax rate was being reduced. Much of this was made possible by Crump’s genuine attack upon graft and corruption within city government.

Control of the mayor’s office also gave Mr. Crump control over an enormous amount of patronage. Memphis had no civil service as such; virtually every employee from department superintendent to street-repair worker served at the whim of the mayor and his staff. During his first term in office, most city workers were impressed by Crump’s swashbuckling tactics and became enthusiastic suprump ’ s for mida ble oppo porters. Those who were merely lukewarm in nent in 1909 was Joe Williams, a fortheir support were often asked to step aside, their places taken by organization loyalists. mer mayor and leader of the city’s old It was during this period that Crump and guard. But the future boss’ embryonic organization was ready to do battle. His boys Frank Rice put together their famous card knocked on doors, they made speeches, and file on voters, one that would serve the orgathey shook hands. Candidate Crump also nization so well over the next few decades. made wide use of newspaper advertisements, Eventually this contained the name and voting history of virtually every voter in Shelby the first time this had ever been done on a During the 1970s, memories of Mr. Crump were large scale in a Memphis election.

County. A Tammany Hall stalwart from New still fresh in the minds of most Memphians. Not One of the more fascinating aspects of York City who visited Memphis in the 1920s surprisingly, the founders of Memphis magazine this and his other campaigns was Crump’s later rated Crump’s “system” as the most comthought a posthumous “interview” with the Boss complete absence from the podium. A poor prehensive and efficient he had ever seen. would be an ideal cover story for their first-ever speaker, he reputedly never made a public That system certainly produced results. On issue. This is a prototype of that April 1976 issue. speech during his entire political career, deelection days, the Crump organization kept a pending upon aides to handle those particular duties. But Crump did close record of how many of its supporters had actually cast ballots.

As the day progressed, lists were drawn up of those persons who had not remain aloof; in fact, personal contact with the voter was perhaps backed Crump in the past and had not yet appeared at the polls. At the key ingredient in all of his campaigns. that point, cars were sent from house to house, where earnest young Noted the Memphis News Scimitar in 1909: “Crump knows everybody and shakes hands with everybody. His handshake is so hearty that loyalists cajoled and pleaded with residents to do their democratic no man can doubt his sincerity. He can cover more territory and be duty. Everything was done to make their trips to the polling stations in more places at the same time than any man that ever entered the as quick as possible; in many cases, the organization took care of political game.” paying the $2 poll tax.

But the Williams organization also had its share of back-slappers No doubt there was always a certain amount of fraud and intimidation involved in Memphis elections during the Crump era. But by and ward heelers. When the ballots were finally cast and counted, Crump emerged victorious — but only by the slender margin of 79 and large such clumsy tactics were unnecessary. At a very early stage, votes. Cries of “fraud” and “robbery” immediately emanated from the the emerging Boss wisely discerned that he could make voter turnout Williams camp. a powerful political tool. He was able to mobilize many apathetic As was often the case in the early 1900s, there was some truth in the citizens on his behalf. His opponents, not as well organized, rarely charges. Memphis was one of the few places in the South where blacks mustered equal support.

By making sure that almost everyone who halfway supported him had not been disenfranchised. Unfortunately, most didn’t vote — they were instead voted. It was a time when the city’s white politicians actually voted, Crump was able to coast to reelection victories in capitalized upon the poverty and ignorance of black electors. Most of 1911 and 1915. But storm clouds loomed on the horizon. This was the the city’s black citizens had their poll taxes paid for them and every contin u ed on page 58

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In 1847, only 28 years after Memphis was founded, 14 years before the Civil War, and 73 years before women had the right to vote, Mary Foote Pope founded what would become St. Mary’s Episcopal School.

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Today, we remain the oldest independent school in Tennessee. We look forward to the next 172 years of dedicating every teacher, every lesson, and every resource to girls and how they learn best. St. Mary’s is for girls, for life.

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C RU M P c o n t i n u e d f r o m p a g e 5 4 Prohibition Era, but in Memphis, as in most large cities, anti-liquor laws were largely ignored. Mayor Crump made little attempt to enforce them, his theory being that a majority of Memphians opposed prohibition in the first place.

The state courts disagreed. An ouster petition was filed against Crump in accordance with a state law that called for the removal from office of local officials who did not enforce the ban on alcohol. The state Supreme Court upheld the ouster petition, and Mayor Crump resigned under pressure in February of 1916.

Crump’s forced exit from City Hall was a crucial turning point in his political career. Perhaps he considered this a personal affront, one which at least partly explains the proxy election circus of 1940 and his desire to be mayor again, if only for an instant. But Crump’s ouster from City Hall also marked a dramatic shift in his political emphasis.

From this point onward, the Crump organization became increasingly involved in state politics, as Crump realized just how much his control of Memphis depended upon his influence in Nashville.

Although its master was no longer mayor, the Crump Machine remained largely intact after the 1916 ouster. It retained its almost complete domination over Shelby County politics (Crump had himself elected to the position of County Trustee in 1919), and had the Boss been willing to force the issue, there seems to be little doubt that, from the outset, he could have installed a succession of puppet mayors in City Hall. But Crump chose instead to allow his opponents to fill the municipal stage, albeit temporarily. For the moment, he had bigger fish to fry — in Nashville.

Memphis organization put from 50,000 to 75,000 votes — as much as 40 percent of the state’s turnout — into the pocket of Crump in every state election during these two decades. Since the poll tax rendered voter turnout low in most other parts of Tennessee, Crump could exert a much stronger influence upon state politics than might otherwise have been the case. On election night, many a candidate for state office went into “Big Shelby” leading by a comfortable margin, only to go down to ignominious defeat when 85 percent of the Memphis vote was recorded for his opponent.

An organization that could dominate state politics, of course, could not be built overnight. This, in fact, required the better part of a decade, as Crump made alliances with rural courthouse bigwigs and all sorts of minor politicos across the state, all while jostling for power with the then-dominant forces of Nashville newspaper magnate Luke Lea. Mr. Crump was playing his cards wisely. Before long the Memphis machine would cash in its chips.

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hile Crump did not directly control Memphis politics in the decade after his 1916 ouster, his influence remained formidable. Witness what happened in the 1919 mayoral election, when his old rival Joe Williams squared off against newcomer Rowlett Paine. The organization said nothing throughout the campaign, until the night before the election, when the word went out from Main and Adams: “We are with Paine.” Paine won by 3,000 votes. He could justly claim that the victory was his own, but he doubtless felt as if a brontosaurus was breathing heavily down the back of his neck.

Even out of office, Crump continued to wield large blocs of electoral o understand how Crump eventually succeeded support. His secret? Obviously, he attracted many voters simply on in establishing his sway over Tennessee politics, one must the basis of his own record as a no-nonsense politician. “I’m a Crump man,” said one Memphian with simple eloquence. “He’s nearer right first understand how few people actually voted in Southern than any man I know.” elections during the 1920s and 1930s. In Tennessee elections during But there were deeper roots to Crump’s popular apthis period, three out of every four adults failed to vote. peal. Much of his success was the result of his ability to In the state’s 1926 gubernatorial election, for example, more than 1,300,000 Tennesseans were eligible to vote, win friends in all sections of the community. His was but the actual turnout was only 233,000. Between 1922 the classic formula for political success: Be all things to all men and women. and 1948, voter participation in state elections averaged a paltry 24 percent.

From the outset, Crump depended heavily upon black Voter apathy certainly played a role in a state that support. As we have seen, much of this was provided by was still over 65 percent rural in 1930. Walking two or artificial methods, but there were also many black votes three miles to vote in a state where automobiles were given freely and willingly to the organization. While not plentiful was also a challenge for many. But by far Crump was as bigoted as most white Southerners of his era, he reached out to blacks in ways that few of his opthe biggest factor in low voter turnout during this era For two decades, was the poll tax. ponents had previously done: parks, public housing, and Tennessee’s poll tax was $2 per person, a hefty sum even a few city jobs. As early as 1911, one black communibetween 1928 and back when breakfast cereal was 10 cents a box and lamb ty leader gave this as his reason for backing Crump: “The 1948, the Crump just 17 cents a pound. An institution in most Southern other candidate promises everything, and I fear he will do nothing. But this red-headed fellow frankly declines states during this period, the poll tax was employed organization to promise some of the things we want, but convinced specifically to disenfranchise African Americans. Voter hardly ever lost me that he will fulfill the promises that he did make.” participation nationally averaged around 64 percent; in an election that it the states of the old Confederacy, voter turnout averaged Crump could also count upon broad support from just 22 percent. Indeed, in the pre-Civil Rights era, the another group of Memphians: those who were forcontested on the poll tax was the major weapon used by political leaders eign-born or who had parents born abroad. The ethnic city, county, or vote was a relatively small percentage of the Memphis in the South to suppress the black vote, to insure that total (roughly 15 percent), but it went solidly for Crump, state legislatures remained lily-white. state level.

In Tennessee, however, the poll tax produced someespecially after the mayoral election of 1923. In that year what different results. Not that the state Senate and House were ever Rowlett Paine’s bid for reelection was opposed by the Ku Klux Klan. anything but 100 percent white. But when compared to other SouthCrump took a firm stand against the Klan, and the support of his ern states, Tennessee’s black population was relatively small, only 18 organization was instrumental in Paine’s 2,000-vote victory. percent of the total in 1930. A majority of black Tennesseans, however, Crump had pragmatic reasons for opposing the Klan. The KKK were concentrated around Memphis, one of the few places in the South was then undergoing a national resurgence, and his machine was where African Americans voted regularly, with the encouragement eager to nip in the bud this possible threat to its local power. But and direction of Mr. Crump. whatever his motives, Crump’s stand won him unwavering affection So did thousands of white Memphians. In fact, the efficiency of the contin u ed on page 6 0

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C RU M P c o n t i n u e d f r o m p a g e 5 8 from Memphians of foreign origin, most of whom were Catholic and felt as threatened as blacks by the rise of the Klan. These feelings were reinforced by Crump’s staunch support of the Catholic Democrat Al Smith in the 1928 presidential election, in the face of the massive electoral revolt by Southern Democrats that cost Smith victory.

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erhaps the most remarkable feature of the Crump political persona was that he was able to appeal to both blacks and ethnics without totally alienating their arch-enemies: middle- and lower-class whites of rural origin. This of course was the largest single electoral bloc in Memphis during the first half of the twentieth century; that support made possible the Klan’s impressive revival during the 1920s.

Crump, the Progressive and opponent of the Klan, lost many votes among these Memphians, but he did have one great advantage that made it possible for him to retain the support of a sizable number of whites of rural origin: He was one of them.

Crump never disavowed his Mississippi roots. Indeed, every Sunday afternoon he would dine with his mother in Holly Springs, and afterward would sit with her for hours on the front porch of her home in north Mississippi. While he made Memphis his political home, he never forgot from whence he came.

Crump’s principles, his patterns of behavior, and even his language remained unchanged.

When he quarreled with Gordon Browning, the Tennessee governor in the mid-Thirties, he described the governor as “the kind of man who would milk his neighbor’s cow through a crack in the fence.” In the midst of another quarrel, Crump characterized an opponent as a man whose “mind is as warped and out of shape as a bale of cotton is with three hoops off.” Appropriate imagery for a city like Memphis, which one contemporary observer described as “the most densely populated rural area in the world.”

There was only one major segment of the Memphis community with which the Boss had no strong ties: the local aristocracy, the established cotton and mercantile families who then dominated the city’s economic and social life. But Crump bridged this gap cleverly with his choice of a candidate for the 1928 mayoral election, when his organization decided to reassert its authority on the municipal level. Crump tapped young Watkins Overton, scion of one of the city’s wealthiest families and a Harvard-educated attorney whose name had been identified with Memphis since his great-grandfather helped found the city in 1819.

Entering the 1928 election, therefore, Crump’s organization had footholds in all

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D U N C A N -W I L L I A M S,

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Founded in 1969 by A. Duncan Williams, the firm started out as a regional municipal bond firm, selling bonds for public projects to town banks and other fixed-income investors around the country. Memphis was a high-flying bond center at the time, and Williams set out to build a

Chicago, Los Angeles, Charlotte, Seattle, Cleveland, Atlanta, and other cities. Duncan-Williams, Inc. then went on to spin off a highly successful private client business four years ago, doing business as Duncan Williams Asset Management.

As CEO, Duncan Williams has also continued his family’s commitment to the community, sponsoring so many community organizations and causes that the company has earned extraordinary name recognition. "Though most of our customers are out of town, Memphis is where we live. It's where our families live. This is the place that made Duncan Williams, Inc. possible, and we are all driven to do our part to make Memphis the best it can be."

“ Our business is complex, but our approach has always been simple. When our clients do well, our employees do well. And when our employees do well, our company does well. And because our company does well, we can do so much more to make sure Memphis does well.”

— Duncan F. Williams, CEO · Duncan-Williams, Inc. — solid business based on trust, long-term relationships, and loyalty to employees. As the bond industry matured throughout the 70s, Duncan-Williams was well positioned to not only survive, but thrive.

Duncan-Williams continued to grow through the 1970s and 1980s, adding clients and offices across the country.

Tragedy struck the firm in 1989 with the sudden death of A. Duncan Williams. But the principles he built the business on 20 years earlier served it well as his wife Carolyn Williams took the helm. “We had the trust of our customers, the experience of long-term and loyal employees, and the respect of our competitors,” she recalls. “That could have easily been the end, but we did it.”

The business continued to thrive under Carolyn Williams, who led the company for 11 years, and still remains its major stockholder and Chairwoman. Carolyn and Duncan’s son, Duncan F. Williams, became CEO in 2000, and by 2010 the firm had 170 employees and offices in New York,

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four major sections of the Memphis community. It could count on overwhelming support from blacks and European ethnics, and it could hope for at least a split of the middleand lower-class white vote. And with Watkins Overton in the saddle, the Machine could start making valuable inroads among the city’s social establishment as well.

All this spelled trouble for former Crump favorite Rowlett Paine, at that point an incumbent running for a third term. He was no match for the Crump Machine. Huge newspaper ads extolled the virtues of candidate Overton. Crump did his share of handshaking, and organization regulars dusted off the index card files for use on Election Day. The result was never really in doubt; Rowlett Paine was, in a word, stomped.

Watkins Overton captured 73 percent of the vote.

After an absence of 12 years, Mr. Crump returned to City Hall. Not in person, of course; in fact, the Boss called officially upon Mayor Overton exactly once over the next decade. But there was no need for Memphis’ boss to be physically present.

His organization was firmly in charge of city government; safely back in power, it could now resume its old policy of using city employees as virtual agents for the cause. It had taken a full decade for the Crump Machine to get back in the saddle. For the next two, however, it would motor along smoothly, purring like a well-tuned Packard.

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rump’s political renaissance in Memphis was matched by triumph at the state level during the next two decades. From 1930 until 1948, no Tennessee governor was elected without his support.

Those few who dared step out of line were given grim lessons in the realities of Tennessee politics in the Age of Crump.

Consider what happened to Gordon Browning of Milan, Crump’s choice in the 1936 gubernatorial race; his victory was largely the result of his receiving 60,218 votes in Shelby County; his opponent received just 861. But Governor Browning pursued an independent course, a strategy which lost him his friend at Main and Adams in Memphis, and doomed his 1938 reelection campaign almost before it had started. “In the art galleries of Paris,” fumed Mr. Crump, “there are twenty-seven pictures of Judas Iscariot. None of them look the same, but they all bear a remarkable resemblance to Gordon Browning.”

Big Shelby echoed its boss’ sentiments.

In the 1938 election, Browning received only 9,214 votes in the county; the Crump nominee racked up 56,302. In barely two contin u ed on page 102

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3/15/19 10:29 AM

, Tom Lee s Exploits

’ s o r tale• e H a •• •••

are the stuff ofQ

LOCAL LEGEND. Here’s the story of the man behind the myth . by michael finger

a v ersion of this story origina lly a ppe a red in the june 1987 issue of

MEMPHIS

maga zine.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY BENJAMIN L. HOOKS CENTRAL LIBRARY

I

n less than a minute, the boat rolled over, pitching the young woman and her fellow passengers into the river. The current was swift, the water surprisingly cold. The riverbank seemed impossibly far away, and there was nothing within reach. Frantically, she kicked and splashed in a desperate effort to stay afloat.

It was no use. She had no life preserver, and her waterlogged dress twisted around her legs. When she tried to scream out, the muddy water choked her. Struggling feebly, she slowly sank, until only her long hair trailed on the surface …

In a flash, a muscled arm thrust into the water, gripped the woman by her hair, and yanked her into a tiny boat. Spitting and gasping, she looked up into the face of her savior, a river worker named Tom Lee. Lee became a national celebrity in 1925, when he pulled more than 30 people from the Mississippi River after the steamer M.E. Norman overturned near Memphis. Today, his brave deeds are largely forgotten, brought to mind only when visitors pause to admire the monument erected in the riverfront park named after him. This is the story of Tom Lee, a true Memphis hero.

On the sunny spring morning of May 8, 1925, Tom Lee cranked up the outboard motor on the battered wooden boat he called the Zev and headed downstream. The 39-year-old roustabout was employed by a company doing levee repair work along the river. Lee served as a jack-of-all-trades, and his job today was to ferry his boss downriver to Helena, Arkansas, and then return to Memphis. It would be an easy task, though any work on the water had a special danger for Lee — he had never learned to swim.

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Two other boats, both larger and grander than Lee’s craft, also He stepped aboard the Choctaw just as it moved away from the banks. pulled out of Memphis that morning. They were the Choctaw and the Back at Helena, Lee yanked the starter rope of the Zev and whistled M.E. Norman, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers vessels. The Mid-South as the motor fired up and hummed smoothly. He would be home soon Chapter of the American Society of Civil Engineers was holding its now, he thought, as the Zev puttered north. Far ahead of him upstream, first annual meeting in Memphis, and the Engineers Club of Memhe could make out the smoke of two steamers.

The Choctaw, lighter and faster than the Norman, soon left the other phis had arranged a special outing for the delegates. The two boats ship behind. Passengers looked back at the slower ship until they lost would carry more than 150 engineers and their families to view the big revetment project under way at Pinckney Landing, some 20 miles sight of it around a bend in the river, and no one aboard suspected the south of the city.

Norman was in trouble.

A little before noon, both vessels pulled into the channel and slowly chugged downstream. Only one would return.

The Norman was a sternwheeler, 114 feet long, with twin smokestacks ut Tom Lee certainly did. He had zipped past the and two decks. Less than a year old, the ship was modern in every way, big steamer a few miles above Pinckney Landing, and saw and the inefficient coal-burning system originally installed on her had that something was wrong. Lee cut the motor on the Zev been converted to oil just a few weeks before. In fact, this would be and watched the boat over his shoulder. As he later put it, “She was the Norman’s first voyage using the new system, which replaced coal riding serious.” bunkers in the hold with tanks carrying tons of fuel.

Aboard the Norman, Captain Fenton fought to maintain control of It was also the first time the Norman had ever carried passengers. his boat. After leaving the landing, the boat had listed to starboard.

The ship was a towboat, with accommodations for a small crew. But The captain knew that the current would cause that, but he was on the morning of May 8th, with her oil tanks filled to capacity, the worried. Other boats he had piloted always righted themselves after Norman took on the additional weight of 72 passengers. a while. This boat heeled over and stayed there.

Captain Howard Fenton was a capable riverman who had worked Fenton instructed the passengers to move to the high side of the on ships up and down the Mississippi for 39 years. If he thought the vessel to balance her. This strategy slowly leveled the boat, but the Norman was overloaded as the men, women, and children clambered ship began to tilt again, and the list gradually grew steeper until aboard, he never said so. He might not have known better, for Fenton passengers could no longer keep their footing on the slanted decks. had just been transfered to this Fenton knew the ship was boat. He had never piloted the doomed. The crew rushed to Norman before. toss out life preservers and anyLeroy Hidinger Jr. was a thing else that would float, as young passenger on the Norman the captain heaved the wheel that day. In an interview years over — perhaps there was time later as part of the University of to reach the Mississippi shore Memphis’ Oral History Project, before capsizing. he recalled an ominous vision He was too late. The boat was caught crossways in the the morning of the voyage: “My father, grandfather, and I current. The powerful current went down to get in the car. And beswelled against the hull, alfore Daddy could start the automobile, ready heeled over at a dangerI jumped out of it, and cried, ‘Daddy, ous angle, and lifted the port I don’t want to go. The boat’s going to side of the vessel clear out of sink!’ But my father and grandfather the water. In seconds, the Norsaid, ‘Son, the boat’s not going to sink. man rolled over in midstream, You’re just needlessly scared, and it’s trapping dozens of passengers all in your head.’ So he took my hand, in the screened-in main cabin, and we went down to the river.” and hurling the others into the Some of the other passengers murky water. weren’t quite so confident. As Some of the luckier ones the Norman headed downstream, had donned life jackets. Othsmall waves kicked up by the ers struggled in the cold water Choctaw steaming ahead washed to reach anything that would over her lower deck. One pashold them up. A few managed Artist Ted Faiers included Tom Lee in a panel of the First Tennessee Heritage to splash back to the upturned senger, alarmed by the way the Mural, on display in the Downtown headquarters of First Tennessee Bank. ship wallowed in the river, found hull of the Norman, but this prolittle reassurance from a crewvided only a brief refuge. The man about the water spilling over her feet. “Yes, ma’am, I know,” the ship floated upside down for only five minutes before plunging to crewman responded, “and we’re mighty concerned about it.” the bottom.

Despite the apparent danger, both boats tied up at Pinckney LandSeventy-two men, women, and children were at the mercy of the ing on the Arkansas side by noon. Most of the men left the boats to river. The chilly water was numbing. Heavy suits and dresses made scamper over the revetment work — huge mats woven from willow swimming impossible, and the current swept them downstream. branches that kept the river from chewing away the mud banks — Several of the passengers, injured when the ship overturned or unable while their families lingered on board and snacked on box lunches. to swim, drowned almost immediately. Others splashed frantically in At the landing, the inspection tour was over, and the engineers the water until they were exhausted by their struggles. Some tried boarded the Choctaw and Norman for the two-hour return trip home. to make it to shore; one man was seen to swim within 20 feet of the Henry Wilkinson, a convention delegate from Washington, had ridden bank, when he sank beneath the surface. Most of the passengers could the Norman downstream, but he felt a strange urge to change boats. do nothing against the swift current but bob helplessly in the water.

ARTWORK COURTESY FIRST TENNESSEE BANK

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alerted to the disaster when f loating wreckage, life preservers, and a huge oil slick drifted past them. s soon as he saw the NORMAN turn over, Tom Lee The Norman survivors returned to Memphis that night aboard the whipped the Zev around and raced to the scene. He realized Choctaw and talked to the newspapers about the unknown black man that the people in the water could easily swamp his little boat, who had saved them. Reporters were eager to find Tom Lee, but he was still out on the river. Even after other ships had arrived at the scene, he so he expertly maneuvered between the victims to reach them one remained in the Zev and helped search for bodies until morning. at a time. Lee hurriedly filled the boat with eight half-drowned passengers, carried them to a sandbar, and Twenty-three passengers were missing, returned for more. and the authorities were determined to reDespite their predicament, most of the pascover the bodies. Many of the dead were sengers stayed surprisingly calm. Later Lee probably trapped in the ship, so professiontold a reporter, “They didn’t lose their heads al divers were brought in from St. Louis to like a lot of crazy folks I’ve seen in the water. explore the wreck. The Norman’s hull was I guess it’s a good thing they didn’t or I sure located by morning, lying on its side in 50 would have got scared too. The sensiblest feet of water, but the divers were repeatedly swept away by the swift current. drowning folks I ever saw — just waited for me when I waved at them, and I caught them Workers tried to raise the vessel by looping in the Zev.” huge chains under the hull and winching it to Captain Fenton leapt through the pilotthe surface, but again the current made this impossible. Instead, the authorities decided house window when the Norman flipped and to free the bodies — if there were any — by dog-paddled over to a bundle of life preservers. He could barely hold his head above wausing an anchor as a grappling hook. Over ter before Lee pulled him aboard the Zev. the next few days, large chunks of the boat’s Another passenger was able to swim close to superstructure were pulled up, but no bodies the banks, but the rough current kept pushappeared. ing him away. Unable to move, he knotted his Th e Commercial Appeal was grimly poetic tie around a willow by the shore and moored as it described the salvage efforts: “That the rescue fleet is engaged in a solemn task is in himself there until Lee could get to him. the air; the isolation, the sound of the swirlThe last passenger Lee pulled from the river was a prominent Memphis socialite named ing waters, the sight of wreckage from the A 2011 flood added realism to the new Tom Lee Margaret Oates, who managed to stay afloat Norman coming to the surface, and the realimonument, normally located on dry land. zation of the scenes that must be faced later by popping open her parasol and trapping all tend to impress upon one’s mind the horror of the disaster.” air beneath it. (This clever lady later married cotton merchant Hugo Dixon, and the arts patrons would later open their home, The Dixon The work was slow and tedious. At one sweep of the anchor a Gallery and Gardens, to the city.) brightly colored bundle of cloth burst to the surface, drawing a gasp Tom Lee eventually saved 32 people, and only a dozen or so of the from onlookers. But it was not a corpse, only the Norman’s 10-foot flag, Norman’s survivors made it to shore without his help. The disaster still tied to the stern mast.

Later that day, a portion of the galley wall was tugged loose, with also produced other heroes that afternoon. Crewman Roy Thompthe attached wall clock stopped at the exact time of the sinking: 4:50 son remained in the engine room and drew off steam so the boilers wouldn’t explode when the water hit them; he drowned at his post. p.m. The Norman was finally blasted apart with dynamite in a final M.G. Overstreet, an Ole Miss student, swam safely to shore, then attempt to dislodge any bodies. None appeared. Some were later dove back into the river to rescue seven other passengers. Engineer recovered far downstream, but other victims remained lost forever.

A.E. Fry assisted Lee during his later trips by lying across the bow of the Zev and pulling people into the boat. Another engineer, E.H. Bowser, helped his companions into Lee’s boat but refused to get nd what of Tom Lee during all this? A quiet and in himself. He swam off to aid a woman and child nearby and was considerably bashful man, he seemed genuinely embarrassed never seen again. by the spotlights now focused on him and modestly claimed, After Lee made four trips to the sandbar, he paused long enough to “I guess I didn’t do any more than anyone else would have done gather driftwood and build a fire for the survivors, who were shivering in my place.” Memphians couldn’t agree with that. Newspaper from the shock and cold. Then he went back out on the river. “I beat photographers posed Lee in the rumpled clothes he wore during it out in the Zev again,” Lee recalled later, “looking around the banks the rescue, shaking hands with Mayor Paine and standing in the below, because I know a lot of them had gone and got drowned.” equally famous Zev. Tributes poured in from Norman survivors and others impressed with Lee’s bravery. Captain Fenton wrote a letter to The Commercial y now news of the tragedy had reached Memphis.

Appeal, in part justifying his actions that day, but still declaring, “Lee deserves the greatest of credit for the manner in which he handled One of the passengers had stumbled through the cotton fields his motorboat and saved the lives of at least 25 people.” to a nearby farmhouse, which luckily had a telephone. His call One of those Lee saved, J.M. Wood, summed it up neatly: “We all brought doctors, ambulances, and reporters rushing to the scene. owe our lives to Tom Lee. That’s all there is to it.” Julius Goodman, When the Choctaw finally reached Memphis that afternoon, more than a thousand people were anxiously waiting for her at the the Memphis jeweler, presented Lee with a handsome gold watch. Lee dock. Her passengers were stunned by the terrible news — they also traveled to Washington to meet President Coolidge, who shook his hand and echoed others’ sentiments that he was a “real hero.” thought the Norman was just behind them. More doctors, along with relatives and other concerned citizens, including Mayor Rowlett Th e Commercial Appeal urged that Lee be awarded the Carnegie Paine, jammed aboard the vessel as it steamed back to where it had Medal for heroism, and not to be outdone, the Memphis Press-Scimitar last seen the Norman. Downstream, other boats now headed north, contin u ed on page 92

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PHOTOGRAPH BY JUSTIN FOX BURKS

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12, 1939• y a m •• •••

A

Da y i n th e Li fe

of

Peabody0 THE

by david dawson

a v ersion of t his st ory or igina l ly a ppe a r ed in t he june 1981 issue of

MEMPHIS

m aga zine.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY THE PEABODY

C

otton Carnival Friday that year dawned with the air full of moisture, left over from a rainstorm the day before that had forced a three-hour postponement of the eighth annual Cotton Carnival Parade. Had the sun been able to poke through the clouds, it would have found the usual assortment of early risers sitting in the big leather chairs in the lobby of the Hotel Peabody, dressed in spite of the weather in their newest tropical-worsted suits and straw hats, leafing through their morning newspapers, waiting to “take their breakfasts” in one of the dining rooms scattered throughout the hotel.

On the front page of that morning’s paper, there was troubling news from Europe. But this was Carnival Week in Memphis, springtime in the South, and the Continent seemed a long way away.

Mae West had just concluded a triumphal four-day engagement at The Orpheum, capped off by a visit to the courtroom of her “old friend,” Juvenile Court Judge Camille Kelley. The two of them had sat on the bench side-by-side on Monday afternoon, and had heard several cases together.

On Tuesday the Cotton Carnival Barge landed in the evening amid all of the usual panoply and gaudiness, and Queen Elizabeth Farnsworth and King Chester Lowrance had been crowned by the light of fireworks over the river.

No matter how engrossed they were in the morning newspaper, as the hands of the clock arranged themselves in the 7 o’clock position, none of the early risers would have been able to ignore the little ceremony that was about to take place by the fountain. Even if they had seen it two dozen times before, they would have folded their papers and gotten up to watch the beginning of the day at the Hotel Peabody.

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A vintage photograph from the hotel archives captures the spirit of The Peabody.

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were back, to view the foundation’s exhibits on the third floor of the hotel, featuring such items as fine jewelry, salted nuts, a new form of deadly poison, and synthetic fibers — all made from various parts of the cotton plant.

There was hectic activity of another sort altogether going on in the back of the hotel. All five kitchens were busy sending down their requisitions for the supplies that they were going to need for lunch and dinner. For two hours or so after breakfast, the freight elevators made dozens of trips from the stockrooms up to the kitchens, laden with sides of beef, racks of fresh fruit and vegetables, big sacks of flour and sugar, and whatever other provisions were called for. The amount of kitchen supplies that purchasing agent Arthur Schoembs was called upon to provide each week was staggering — 2,000 pounds of sugar, 1,400 pounds of coffee, 14,000 eggs, 10 gallons of horseradish, 50 tons of ice, and more than 175 pounds of bacon. And most of that was just for breakfast.

Today, there was extra scurrying in the back of the hotel due to the fact that there was to be a special luncheon in the huge Continental Ballroom. The annual Cotton Carnival Mid-South Mayors Luncheon, which would draw perhaps 500 guests from throughout the region, was considered bigger and more important than most — the reputation of the hotel, which relied heavily on trade from residents of the Mid-South, was on the line before all of these important visitors from around the region.

t precisely 7 a.m., the 30 or so bellmen and porters of the day shift lined up in rigid formation — two rows, facing each other. Their lines stretched north from the fountain to the elevators. Alonzo Locke, the venerable and austere headwaiter, dressed in his immaculate white linen jacket, made his way carefully down each row, pausing to inspect the bellmen and porters’ uniforms — white gloves clean, gold braid in place, shoes shined — satisfying himself that the day shift was presentable.

After this inspection, Alonzo turned aside and straightened to attention at the head of his “troops.” One of the elevator doors then slid open, and out waddled three jaunty looking but sleepy mallard ducks. The ducks made their way between the two lines of bellmen and porters to the big marble fountain in the center of the lobby, where they paused only slightly before hopping deftly onto the ledge of the pool at the base of the fountain. Then, without testing the water, each one promptly plopped himself into the pool. The day had officially begun.

Meanwhile, the rest of the day shift was filing in through the back doors of the hotel, punching the time clock, and hurrying to get to their own stations on time. Scores of laundry workers, maids, boiler-room attendants, front-desk workers, and all the rest were mindful that their own day began not with the ringing of bells or the blowing of With the addition of the Skyway, and whistles, but with the waddling of ducks, and maybe an occasional quack or two. with the numerous rooms that The After watching the procession of webbed t 11 a.m., while the Mid-South Peabody made available to private mayors were arriving at The Peabody feet, the early risers in the lobby wandered parties, both small and large, there off to either the Basement Grill (a coffee shop and registering in one of the meetaffair, featuring food for those on the run or ing rooms, Chef Gilbert Blanc, master of the was no need to leave the hotel in order watching their pocketbooks) or the Venetian kitchens and a culinary perfectionist, was to find a good time.

Dining Room at the east end of the lobby (linpreparing the meal. In his pastry kitchen, en table cloths, real silverware, china, flowers Helmut Vogel, who had come to The Peabody in tulip vases on each table, and all of the other trappings of a “sita year earlier after serving his apprenticeship at the Court of the down” meal). While both of these places featured food cooked to order Grand Duchess in Luxembourg, was putting the finishing touches at breakfast, the difference in ambience was as pronounced as that on his centerpieces for the tables — all of them made of marzipan, between filet mignon and hot dogs. Those who went downstairs were and all quite edible. treated to a “good” breakfast in the usual, diner-ish fashion. But those At 12:45, the precisely appointed time, Locke and maitre d’hotel Ernest who made their way to the Venetian Room were, well, feted.

Vollrath assembled the white-jacketed waiters and began the service They were met at the door this morning, as every morning, by in the Continental Ballroom. Locke directed the hotel’s waiters with all of the precision and control of a symphony conductor. None of the Alonzo Locke — tall, with hair already gone white, and high cheekbones set into a face that was practiced in conveying expressions of 500 or so VIPs attending the Mid-South Mayors Luncheon on May both kindness and deference. If they had been to the Venetian Room 12, 1939, had to wait for a dish to be served. None had to ask for more for a meal before, even if only once a long time ago, Locke would greet water or butter. After dessert, there was a program for the dignitaries. them by name, as if they were old friends.

King Chester and Queen Elizabeth, Cotton Carnival royalty, were presented. The Cromwell Sisters, backed by Mack Rae and His Orchestra, sang. Mayor Watkins Overton pontificated about the status of business in the Mid-South. ormally, the hours just after breakfast were “check-out time” at The Peabody. But with the Cotton Carnival After the luncheon, many of the assembled guests went downstairs in town, there was scant activity at the front desk this Friday. to the lobby to join the crowd gathering around the fountain. At 3 The 625-room hotel was filled to capacity and would stay that way p.m. every afternoon, there was a reversal of the ceremony by which the day had begun. Five minutes before the hour — precisely — the through the weekend.

Meanwhile, a convention-type group, the Cotton Research Founducks in the fountain began to get antsy; they would squawk, bat dation, had set up camp in the hotel. At 9:30, they assembled severtheir wings, and begin hopping out of the water and onto the floor of the lobby, a signal to the bell captain that he had better get his act al-hundred-strong in the lobby before setting out on their “Cotton together and get them out of that fountain, because their eight-hour Industrial Tour,” where those attending were shown many of the shift was finished, and they were ready to go home for the evening. latest innovations in cotton production machinery. An hour later, they

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY THE PEABODY

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Instead of the lines of bellmen and porters, there was a red carpet that was rolled out in the afternoon to mark the path the ducks would follow to the elevators. And right on cue, to the strains of John Philip Sousa’s “Stars and Stripes Forever” played through hi-fi speakers, the ducks waddled their way through the spectators’ gauntlet to the elevator waiting to whisk them up to their rooftop duck-house on the Second Street side of the roof.

While the morning appearance of the ducks signified the beginning of another working day at The Peabody, their afternoon departure spoke not of the end of the day but of a change in atmosphere, a shift in direction in the daily life of the hotel. It was a change from luncheons and formal teas to lavish dinner parties replete with cocktails, champagne, and dancing. It was a change from the puffed-up oratory of politicians to the smooth sound of woodwinds intoning some Gershwin ballad. It was the difference between day, with all of its concerns of business and propriety, and night, which was of the winsome and romantic moonshine that had become a part of the national psyche during the Thirties.

that The Peabody made available to private parties, both small and large, there was no need to leave the hotel in order to find a good time. Indeed, this point was used by The Peabody’s Convention Board, which traveled the country trying to drum up convention business for the hotel; there was no real reason, they argued, why the best time of all could not be had without even leaving the hotel.

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or the past few years, conventions had responded to this offer with alacrity. It seemed in the late Thirties as if the hotel was always playing host to some group of high nabobs from here or another group from somewhere else. As a rule, conventioneers were given not only “European hospitality,” but a lot of leeway as to how far they could go in indulging in their typical out-of-town-and-away-from-the-wife hijinks.

Despite the fact that he was an extremely mild-mannered individual who rarely found reason to lose his temper, Schutt could, however, be pushed too far. Like the time the Rotary Club International held its big national convention at The Peabody a couple of inner that eveyears earlier, a time when ning was held in Schutt was president of the several dining the Rotary Club and gave rooms around the mezzahis group the virtual run nine that were added in of the hotel. One evening, 1927 to accommodate the Sam Barrett, head of the reoverflow crowds that had ceiving room and keeper of been barraging the Venethe hotel time clock, came tian Dining Room every upon four of the Rotarians night. Normally, general gleefully coaxing an enormanager Frank Schutt, who mous gray mule into one of made his home in a suite of the freight elevators. Barrooms in the hotel, took his rett went to Schutt’s office. dinner at 5 p.m. sharp each “Mr. Schutt,” he said, “four evening at “his table” by the of your boys done brought door at the Venetian Room, a mule in here.” where he could both eat and Immediately, the two of greet guests. But not so tothem began the search for night. The Venetian Room the animal and its Rotarian The Venetian Room at The Peabody was the ne plus ultra location for fine dining, and if escorts. Schutt and Barrett was reserved for a private one could reserve it for a private party, then one had, indeed, arrived. wedding party — as usual, caught up with them on the The Peabody bent over backwards to oblige the party-givers and fifth floor. This time, Schutt did lose his temper. “Don’t you ever let scheduled dinner in the other dining rooms. me catch you bringing that damned mule into this hotel again,” he The two immensely popular lunch spots in The Peabody — the hollered, forgetting for once the sanctity of silence normally observed Basement Grill (which became a “nightclub” called the Poodle Dog on guests’ floors. Schutt ordered one of the Rotarians to follow along Grill after dark) and Mrs. Frayser’s Soup Kitchen (on the Third Street behind the mule with a tin washtub that one of the porters had produced, holding the tub just south of the mule’s tail in case the beast side of the hotel) — were closed in the evenings, save when something decided to commit an indiscretion on the carpet of the hotel. extraordinary was going on. So was the Peabody Tea Room. If a person wanted to have dinner at The Peabody, he had to be prepared for a bit of opulence, for a “sit-down” meal. Locke, who seemed to be everywhere at once in the hotel, presided over dinner with Vollrath, uring the late Twenties and early Thirties, and the two of them saw to it that what they referred to as “European the roof of the Hotel Peabody — called the Marine Roof — hospitality” was offered to all dinner guests, be they out-of-towners was one of Memphis’ favorite nightspots. But there was, on or local residents. the night of May 12, 1939, something new about the roof, something On Cotton Carnival Friday, Locke was also called upon to orchesthat even the well-trained and meticulous staff had not quite gotten trate the wedding party in the Venetian Dining Room. Afterwards, used to. With the wild rise in popularity of swing music in 1937 and 1938, Schutt had realized that the time had come to build the modern the party-goers were to join the crowd at The Peabody’s newest atnightclub that he considered the only thing lacking in the hotel. He traction, the incredibly popular Skyway, completed just three months wanted the kind of place that Memphians were used to seeing in the earlier, up on the roof.

After dinner, most guests and local visitors to The Peabody, though, movies — cool and sleek and sophisticated and oh-so-modern. On would be faced with a wide variety of ways to entertain themselves January 31, 1939, when the Skyway opened, he had just what he wanted. on this Friday evening. New films were at nearby theaters, a Cotton With light-blue walls and gold-and-silver trim, the Skyway’s round dance floor was capped by a deep-blue domed ceiling imitating the Carnival street dance was over on South Court, and judging of the twilight sky. Floor-length mirrors were interspersed with huge picMiss Memphis pageant was happening at the Claridge Hotel.

But with the addition of the Skyway, and with the numerous rooms contin u ed on page 102

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY THE PEABODY

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Elvis Presley: 1955-1956 t was August 1955. In Geneva, diplomats were negotiating the release of 11 American pilots who had been captured during the Korean “police action” and were still being held by the “Red” Chinese. In Paris, fashion designer Christian Dior was unveiling his new “Y” look for fall. In Washington, the U.S. Public Health Service was distributing the first shipments of Salk polio vaccine to state health agencies, and everyone was wondering whether Ike would run again in 1956.

In Memphis, a homegrown kid by the name of Elvis Presley was poised on the threshold of fame and fortune. It was an exciting time for the 20-year-old Elvis. Just 13 months earlier he had been nothing more than a truck driver with a guitar and a pleasant singing voice. Now he was a full-time country/hillbilly singer with five records to his credit on the Memphis-based Sun label, and one of those records had actually chalked up enough sales to earn a spot on the national country-and-western charts. He was making weekly appearances on the Louisiana Hayride radio show, a Grand Ole Opry rival that was broadcast every Saturday night from Shreveport. And he was touring the South and Southwest, playing scores of one-night stands at schoolhouses and community centers from Tennessee to Texas.

Still, in August of 1955, no one — least of all Elvis — could have imagined the celebrity and adulation that would soon be his, or the hysteria that would soon surround him. To be sure, there were a few hints, like the time in May of that year when he played the Gator Bowl in Jacksonville, Florida, with a group of performers led by country singer Hank Snow, and Elvis’ swivel-hipped performance caused a near-riot among the teenaged girls in the audience. But at this point in his career, Elvis’ growing reputation as an electrifying entertainer remained regional in scope. And even within the region, plenty of folks had never heard of him.

a v e r s i o n o f t h i s s t o r y o r i g i n a l l y a p p e a r e d i n t h e j u l y /a u g u s t 1 9 8 6 i s s u e o f

MEMPHIS

m aga zine.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES

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by judy ringel | photographs by robert dye

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES

Elvis backstage at the Overton Park Shell on August 5, 1955.

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One man who had heard of Elvis was Robert Dye. A lifelong resident at Ellis Auditorium, about whom WHBQ disc jockey Dewey Phillips of Bartlett, Dye was 34 back then, and an avid photo bug. Working by and others were making such a fuss. Naturally, he took along his Busch day in the grain-elevator construction business, he would spend most press camera and plenty of flashbulbs. evenings and weekends snapping pictures of children, dogs, accidents, The photographs Dye took backstage at the Shell that night of a fires, visiting celebrities, whatever caught his fancy — and developing fresh, young, cocky, exuberant Elvis, all decked out in a see-through lace shirt, pegged pants, and white bucks, were just a few of several them in the darkroom behind his house. A veteran of three-and-a-half dozen shots Dye would snap of Elvis over the next 13 months. years in the Navy during World War II, Dye had learned the finer points of photography and film processing from a buddy who was For the past 30 years, those pictures lay undisturbed in a plain the official Navy photographer for the destroyer USS Decker, on which cardboard box in Dye’s home, a box marked only by the word “Elvis” scrawled on it in grease pencil. “I never took even one both men served.

The photographs Dye “He would tell me to wash prints — make a dozen [of the pictures] to the papers, or to any magazines,” of these, a half-dozen of those,” Dye says now, remisays Dye, who is retired now and no longer so entook backstage at the niscing over a glass of iced tea on the oak-shaded and thralled with photography as he once was (his new begonia-bordered patio in his backyard. “If you made a Shell that night of a fresh, passion is woodworking). “I just kept them. And really mistake, you just threw it in File 13 — the wastebasket. young, cocky, exuberant I just forgot them. The only time I even thought about doing something with them was after he died. I took I learned a lot in that darkroom. And when I got home, Elvis, were among the I had to have me a darkroom of my own.” them out and looked at them, but then I put them back.” first of several dozen Once the darkroom was built, it wasn’t long before The pictures surfaced again in 1986 when Dye decidDye became one of the area’s leading amateur photoged to let the sun shine in — literally — on his darkroom shots Dye would snap raphers. Beginning in 1948, his name started turning up by making it into a greenhouse for his wife, Jonell. Son of Elvis over the next regularly among the first-prize winners in The CommerRobert was recruited to help sort through the huncial Appeal’s annual amateur snapshot contests; by 1952, dreds of boxes of old photos, and it was he who came 13 months. despite a bout with polio the previous summer, he’d across — and encouraged his father to “do something” captured a grand prize in the National Snapshot Awards competition, — with the collection of Elvis photos. The elder Dye sent them off to Washington to have them copyrighted, and then made the collection the first of four such awards he would eventually bring home.

Dye particularly enjoyed photographing celebrities. Whenever available to Memphis. Following the adage that a picture is worth a someone like the notorious fan-dancer Sally Rand came to town, or thousand words, we leaped at the opportunity to display such rare pretty-boy wrestler Gorgeous George, or bandleader Les Paul and his photos in the magazine. wife, singer Mary Ford, Dye would be there too, snapping pictures right alongside the professional news photographers.

So it wasn’t surprising that when The Commercial Appeal ran a story on ne of the performers on the program at the the morning of August 5, 1955, promoting a “big hillbilly show” at the Overton Park Shell on August 5, 1955, was a man characterOverton Park Shell that night, a show “co-starring Webb Pierce, naized in the newspaper that morning as “new Memphis singer tionally known country music star, and Elvis Johnny Cash.” Dye doesn’t remember Cash being there, however, and The crown prince of Presley of Memphis, swiftly rising young he doesn’t have any pictures of him. He does remember Elvis, though, rock-and-roll signs favorite,” Dye decided he’d mosey on down as clearly as if it were yesterday. autographs for Cotton there to try to photograph Pierce. He also “I was standing backstage,” he recalls, “and when it got time for Carnival royalty at wanted to take another look at the handsome Elvis to come on stage, it was, ‘Where’s Elvis? Where’s Elvis?’ Nobody Ellis Auditorium. young singer he’d encountered briefly before, could find him. He was outside gabbing with the girls. Well, they finally found him, and he comes running in and says, ‘Where’s my guitar?’ So one of the other performers says, ‘Here, take mine.’

Well, Elvis goes out there — he didn’t have any fancy outfits back then; he just went to Lansky’s and bought him a zoot suit with little peg legs and cuffs — and the girls start screamin’ and hollerin’, and he breaks two strings on that guitar. Then he comes back and hands the guitar back with the two broken strings hanging off of it, and the man who lent it to him was furious. ‘That guy will never get another guitar from me,’ he said. ‘I don’t care who he is.’”

Over the next year or so, as the whole world found out who Elvis was, Dye continued to photograph him as often as he could, whenever the singer was in town and appearing in public. “Of course, when I was photographing Elvis he was wanting publicity real bad,” Dye says now. “But he was a good guy. I’d say, ‘Hey El, how about a picture?’ And he’d say, ‘Sure. Where do you want me?’ I’d say, ‘How about standing over there?’ He’d say, ‘Okay.’ Then I’d say, ‘Now do this.’ And he’d answer, ‘Sure.’ A lot

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES

Some 14,000 Memphians of celebrities just won’t do that, and you have to get the picture the was such that between August and Decem— mostly teenagers — best way you can. And some you don’t get, ’cause there’s no way you ber 1956, no other singer in America had a packed Russwood Park number-one record. can get that close to them. But Elvis didn’t mind — not in those days.” on July 4, 1956, to see Unfortunately for Dye, “those days” didn’t last very much longer.

On September 9th of that year, Elvis made Elvis perform.

Ten days after the concert at the Overton Park Shell, Elvis and his his first appearance on Ed Sullivan’s Toast then-manager, WMPS disc jockey Bob Neal, signed their first contract of the Town; the show cornered a whopping with Colonel Tom Parker, an agreement that provided 82.6 percent of the viewing audience, a record that Three weeks after the for Parker to become a “special adviser” to Elvis. Three would stand until the Beatles appeared on the show Sullivan appearance, months later, in November 1955, Parker became the eight years later. Three weeks after the Sullivan ap“sole and exclusive adviser and personal representapearance, Robert Dye caught up with Elvis at the Robert Dye caught up tive” to Elvis, and as his first official act he engineered Mid-South Fair and snapped his last pictures of him. with Elvis at the Midthe sale of Elvis’ contract to RCA for $40,000 ($35,000 “After he went on Ed Sullivan, his price got so high, went to Sun Studio head Sam Phillips and $5,000 went South Fair and snapped Memphis couldn’t afford him,” Dye recalls. “So after to Elvis himself as a sort of signing bonus). At the same 1956, he pretty much quit coming back here to perform, his last pictures of him. time, Hill and Range music publishers bought the and I quit taking pictures of him.” publishing rights to Elvis’ songs for $15,000. And from then on, Elvis’ Dye, of course, would have preferred to go on taking pictures career took off at a whirlwind pace. of Elvis for the next 20 years, but he certainly doesn’t feel that he On January 10, 1956, two days after his 21st birthday, Elvis cut his was shortchanged. Looking back at Elvis’ career, he says, it’s clear that if he had to choose just one year in the singer’s life to record first records for RCA, and three weeks later he made his first national in pictures, mid-1955 to mid-1956 would be that period. For it was TV appearance (on The Jackie Gleason Stage Show Starring Tommy and Jimmy Dorsey). In February, “Heartbreak Hotel” was released, followed a during those 12 months that Elvis was transformed, almost by magmonth later by “Blue Suede Shoes.” By April, “Heartbreak Hotel” had ic, from “swiftly rising young favorite” to King of Rock-and-Roll. made it to the number-one spot on the charts, Elvis had appeared on As Elvis biographer Albert Goldman has written of that period: The Milton Berle Show, and movie producer Hal Wallis had signed him “The boy who began the year as an obscure country singer broadto a three-picture contract at a starting salary of $100,000 a picture. casting from a hillbilly station at Shreveport … was now, less than By the time Elvis came back home in May 1956 to be the headline 12 months later, an American hero. Nobody in the history of show business has ever made it so big so fast.” attraction at Cotton Carnival’s Cotton Pickin’ Jamboree, deejays from New York to San Francisco were playing “Hound Dog” and its flip And “amateur” photographer Robert Dye was there to chronicle side, “Don’t Be Cruel,” both of which, amazingly, would soon qualify that transformation on film. Truly, he was a witness to one of the as number-one hits. By then, in fact, the measure of Elvis’ popularity greatest ascents in American musical history.

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••

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MILLION DOLLAR

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How FRED SMITH confounded the experts and turned an impossible idea into a $160 million reality. emphis International Airport. Midnight. The day’s last flights have long since departed into the darkness. The television sets over the ticket counters glow silently, indicating that only one flight — a Delta to Atlanta — will leave Memphis over the next six hours. The ticket counters are closed, the baggage claim belts still and empty. The terminal is deserted, except for a few men with mops and a sailor asleep against his duffel bag in an isolated corner.

But north across the main runway, a complex of buildings is bathed in light and buzzing with activity. Its parking lot is jammed with cars, and groups of men are scurrying back and forth across the runways, as if preparing for the arrival of the aliens from Close Encounters of the Third Kind.

On cue, lights begin to descend from the sky. A single small Falcon jet, lights blinking, zooms in for a landing. Within minutes another lands. And another. Then a 727 comes in. Then another Falcon.

Over the next two hours, 70 planes of various shapes and sizes descend, nosing up to a huge football field-sized building like suckling pups. Small trucks hurry from plane to plane, towing freight vans.

Workmen move small packages — the biggest about a 70-pound armful — from the purple and white planes to the vans, and the vans are then rushed into the building.

Inside, they are backed up to an enormous split-level conveyor belt. More than a hundred men and women pick the parcels from the vans, place them on the belt, and sort them into different bins along the line, to be towed back out to the planes. They work fast. Overhead, a giant basketball scoreboard clock is counting down the minutes. For three hours, the high-speed activity continues. Outside, the planes are being refueled, and by 3 a.m. they are reloaded, their engines roaring and their lights ablaze. For the next hour the sky is alive again with 727s and Falcon jets taking off. a v ersion of t his st ory or igina l ly a ppe a r ed in t he august 1978 issue of

MEMPHIS

2008 PHOTOGRAPH OF FREDERICK W. SMTIH BY BRAD JONES

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by kenneth neill

maga zine.

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2008 PHOTOGRAPH OF FREDERICK W. SMTIH BY BRAD JONES

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Then all is quiet. By 4:30 a.m., the complex is deserted. By dawn, the air freight system. Cargo needs had always been subordinated to airport terminal is beginning to stir again, observers now and then the needs of the passenger market. For example, there was virtually throwing an uninterested glance toward the silent complex across no way to move parcels quickly between secondary cities such as the main runway. And in Omaha, Seattle, Jacksonville, and nearly 70 Birmingham, Alabama, and Salt Lake City, Utah — places that were other U.S. cities, purple and white jets, the words “Federal Express” not connected by direct passenger routes. Moreover, nearly all pasin large letters along their sides, are coming in to land. senger planes flew during daylight and evening hours, By the end of 1973 the Six years ago, a young Memphian took an idea that suspending operations between midnight and 7 a.m. the experts said would never work, added $4 million This meant that overnight movement of packages was company was serving of the family fortune, somehow talked the big-money nearly impossible, even between those places that were more than 50 cities with capitalists into investing an unprecedented $72 million, well served by the commercial airlines. its fleet of 25 FrenchYoung Smith put forward what he today describes and started an enterprise which he hoped would revas “a systems approach to a systems problem.” Instead olutionize air freight. The enterprise lost $24 million made Falcon jets. of using existing airlines and maintaining depots in a in its first two years, and the experts snickered. Today, just four years later, the company is grossing more than $15 million a number of cities, he proposed the establishment of a single sorting month and is worth more than $160 million — and the “experts” are facility which would serve the entire country. Every evening, planes scrambling to buy stock in it. from a hundred cities would bring parcels to this “hub.” Within a The young man was Frederick Wallace Smith, and his big idea matter of hours they could return to home base, laden with packages became Federal Express, headquartered in that airport complex that bound for those destinations. Smith wanted a completely self-conbustles at midnight and slumbers at dawn. And at a time when most tained system, one which maintained its own delivery trucks and depots as well as airplanes. In this way, he could ensure that American industries are dominated by faceless conglomerates, any package accepted for delivery on a particular evening Frederick Wallace Smith seems a throwback to the age would be delivered to an addressee in any other city in when “oil” meant John D. Rockefeller and “automobile” the network on the following morning. meant Henry Ford.

Ironically, Smith’s term paper had received a barely passing grade at Yale. (“I was a crummy student,” he chuckles. “Just like Winston Churchill.”) But he realized, perhaps better than his professors, that the pattern of American economic development was changing rapidly, and creating tremendous demand for just the sort of system he envisaged. Since World War II, many companies had moved out of the traditional urban centers of the Northeast, and into smaller cities that were not well served by the passenger air network. At the same time, many new industries — producers of computers and A FedEx Falcon electronic equipment, for example — depended upon rapid service to Jet, ca. 1978. all parts of the country in order to attract and to maintain customers.

Few modern companies have been influenced so much by the ideas Smith did not have to look far to see just how crucial the time and personality of one man. Yet “tycoon” is just about the last word element had become in American industry. At his own aircraft conthat comes to mind when one meets young Mr. Smith. Still only 34 version plant in Little Rock, delays in parts deliveries wasted manyears old, he looks and acts more like a graduate student than a corhours and cost the company valuable contracts. “If a hospital in Texas porate executive, despite the streaks of gray which are beginning to needs a heart valve tomorrow,” he observed, “it needs it tomorrow.” appear in his hair.

Fred Smith resolved to be the man who would make these special But this youthful exuberance and informality are deceptive. Aldeliveries possible. though his rise to economic stardom has had its share of miraculous elements, Smith’s origins hardly make him a Horatio Alger hero.

He was born into the upper crust of Memphis society; his father, a t the tender age of 28, Smith was ready to take successful bus and restaurant magnate, died a millionaire in 1948. his biggest gamble. Investing nearly all of his personal forThe younger Smith attended Memphis University School and Yale tune of roughly $4 million, he established Federal Express, University, from which he graduated in 1966 with a B.A. in economics an all-cargo carrier which in 1972 received certification as an air taxi service from the Civil Aeronautics Board. This enabled the company and political science. After college he enlisted in the Marine Corps and spent two years in Vietnam, where he flew more than 200 combat to operate wherever it liked, as long as its planes did not carry payloads missions and won both Bronze and Silver Stars. in excess of 7,500 pounds.

Coming out of the service in 1970, Smith could easily have rested Smith chose Memphis as the site for his national sorting hub. This on his laurels and his family’s fortune. But the Vietnam veteran was choice was based upon more than his own ties to the city. Its central not prepared for so passive a future. He needed fresh challenges as geographic location was an obvious advantage, as was the fact that Memphis rarely experiences the sort of bad weather that interferes Don Quixote needed windmills. Aviation had always been Smith’s with flight operations. Perhaps most important was the fact that the first love (he had gotten his pilot’s license when only 15), so he bought city offered excellent airport facilities which were not overcrowded, Little Rock Airmotive, an Arkansas firm that specialized in aircraft allowing the company to do its own thing with minimal interference modifications and engine overhauls, and began to get his feet wet in the world of American business. from, or inconvenience to, other airport users. Ned Cook, chairman of At this time the erstwhile Ivy Leaguer also began giving serious the Airport Authority as well as head of Cook Industries, gave Smith consideration to an idea which he had used as the theme for an ecohis wholehearted support, viewing the project as one that could bring nomics research paper at Yale: the design of an efficient air cargo both jobs and money into the city. network which would make possible the rapid delivery of small parThe new company, however, was more than a hamburger franchise. cels to all parts of the country. America had never had a satisfactory The inception of such a nationwide operation required more capital

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY FEDEX

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than even a millionaire could provide. Money was needed to purchase airplanes and support equipment, and to maintain employees, as well as pickup and delivery facilities at several dozen airports.

Raising this kind of money is never an easy task. Smith was assisted

by New Court Securities Corporation, a New York investment firm that specializes in getting new businesses off the ground. Potential investors were flown to Memphis and shown around the new comple beginning to take shape at the airport. There were many skeptics, but there were also a fair share of converts. By the end of the year Smith and New Court had managed to pull off what one local broker has called “the greatest sales feat of all time.”

A total of $72 million was secured, including contributions from General Dynamics, the Prudential and All-State Insurance Companies, and megabanks such as Chase-Manhattan and Citibank of New York. Never in American business history had a newly formed corporation raised such an enormous amount of venture capital. That Federal Express was able to gain the financial support of this country’s most hardheaded corporate investors says much about the personality of Frederick W. Smith.

“He struck me very favorably,” recalls one New York investor who first met the young Memphis entrepreneur during this period. “It was immediately obvious that his interest in this project was more than financial. He displayed a deep personal and intellectual commitment to the idea which he was trying to sell.”

But Smith had more going for him than zeal. Long before Federal Express had gone into operation, he had asked two separate research organizations to study his air freight idea to determine whether or not it was economically feasible. “Neither knew what the other was doing,” he recollects, “yet both surveys gave us the same answer: Federal Express could and would work.”

Armed with these results, Smith was able to convince the money men that his company was a worthwhile investment. “Fred had done his homework,” recalls Charles Lea of New Court, who served as liaison between Smith and potential investors during this period.

“He had such a total grasp of the American air freight situation that he could outline the transportation needs of every major industry in every major city, right off the top of his head. He knew existing cargo routes backwards and forwards.”

Smith’s dynamism attracted executives as well as investors, and it was during this period that most of the present board of directors joined the company. Men of diverse backgrounds, nearly all had experience in the aviation industry, and could understand how his express air freight service might well become one of the greatest transport innovations of this era.

But in 1973 that potential had not been transformed into reality. No matter how strong, the convictions and patience of both investors and employees were destined to be tested severely over the next several years.

PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE DAVIS

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ederal Express actually commenced operations on April 17, 1973, carrying the grand total of 18 packages. (“It was a pretty grim night,” Smith recalls today.) By the end of that year the company was serving more than 50 cities with its fleet of 25 French-made Falcon jets, converted from passenger to cargo aircraft according to design plans formulated by Smith himself.

But while Federal Express was now off the ground, it was by no means over the hump. A stroke of ill luck brought the Arab oil embargo at the very time when the fledgling company could least afford it. As fuel prices skyrocketed during 1973 and 1974, steady growth in revenue was unable to match increased operational costs. By mid-1974 Federal Express was losing over $1 million a month.

Reluctantly, the company was forced to return to its original investors for additional working capital. Most were understandably upset by the company’s performance; several refused to assist in the

bail-out operation. Those who grudgingly put On the company’s up the additional $11 million extracted several first night of pounds of flesh from the company, in the form of operations in 1973, high interest rates on their loans and hundreds the hub sorted only of thousands of shares of company stock.

18 packages.

Prospects seemed bleak: “FEDERAL EXPRESS TAKES A NOSEDIVE,” read a Businessweek headline in July 1974. “What we were really up against,” Smith recalls today, “was the problem of recognition. We had to make our name a household word, to convince the air freight users that Federal Express could and would give them the overnight service it promised. Our marketing people were sure that they could do this, but we all knew it would take time.”

Perhaps the greatest danger during this period was that one of the better-known (and more solvent) air freight forwarders such as Emery Air Freight or Air Express would decide to launch its own rapid-delivery, small-parcel service, with a similar hub-and-spokes network. “At that stage we could have gotten our brains blown out,” concedes Smith today.

Fortunately for Federal Express, no direct competition appeared upon the horizon. As late as 1974, most air freight specialists still believed that Smith’s small-parcel operation would fold. Few thought that there were profits to be made by flying into places like Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and Manchester, New Hampshire. The whole hub notion defied traditional air freight logic.

Smith and his colleagues, however, never doubted their non-linear system. Granted, Federal Express planes flew extra air miles, but this duplication was more than compensated for by the efficient sorting system which kept packages moving, not sitting in depots and delivery trucks. Arthur Bass, an aviation consultant who joined the company at its formation and is now its second-ranking executive officer, described traditional air freight operations in graphic terms: “It was just as if everybody in a room wanted to talk to each other by telephone, and you had to lay a wire to each and every person. You would soon be entangled with wires. All we did was build a junction box in Memphis, so that nobody needed more than one wire.”

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y early 1975 the junction-box approach was beginning to yield dividends. The marketing division headed by Vincent Fagan had done its job so well that the hub was handling more than 12,000 packages nightly. It was clear that the public was beginning to place its trust — and its packages — in the hands of Federal Express. The company won over important corporate clients such as Exxon, DuPont, and Westinghouse, and secured a considerable amount of government business. Among its most significant commercial customers was Xerox, which in November 1975 agreed to maintain most of its computer parts inventory in a Memphis Parts A P R I L 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 81

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Bank operated by Federal Express. “We have both houses of Congress, and was signed into found Federal to be a very customer-oriented law by President Jimmy Carter in November of that year. organization,” comments Robert Camp, manager for logistics and distribution at Xerox Within weeks of deregulation, Federal headquarters in Rochester, New York. “Their Express bought seven Boeing 727s and acservice on rush orders is excellent, with over quired options to purchase six more. With 95 percent of deliveries made on time.” a cargo capacity five times that of the old Monthly operations first showed a profit in Falcons, these new aircraft made possible a February 1975, and the company remained in dramatic increase in the number of parcels the black for the rest of the year. By year’s end that the company was able to handle. By the Federal Express was generating more than spring of 1978 more than 35,000 packages $7 million in revenue per month. But demand were being transported nightly. The addition for its services was beginning to outstrip the of the 727s has freed smaller aircraft for othcapacity of its fleet of a few er routes, making it possible dozen small planes, now car- By the end of 1975 Federal for Federal Express to expand rying nearly 20,000 parcels a its spider-web network to the night. Traffic was so heavy on Express was generating present total of 78 airports. In some routes that the company more than $7 million in the fiscal year just ended, the petitioned the Civil Aeronaucompany grossed $160 million revenue per month. tics Board for permission to and had profits of over $20 use larger aircraft, planes that million. By 1980, Federal Exwould make it possible for the company to press is expected to be grossing nearly $300 million, almost 20 times more than it earned expand services and reduce costs. But the during its first year of operations.

CAB refused to allow an exception to its own regulations, which prohibited certified air taxi services such as Federal Express from operating with plane payloads of more than eedless to say, times have 7,500 pounds. never been better at Federal Express; Undaunted, Fred Smith took his case to revenues have increased at an annual Capitol Hill. “Outdated, passenger-oriented rate of more than 50 percent since 1976. While regulations have restricted the development this staggering growth cannot be maintained of all-cargo services really needed by air forever, it is clear that Fred Smith’s “motorshippers,” testified Smith before the Senate cycle” company is fast becoming one of the Commerce Committee. “The waste caused giants of American air freight. by these archaic constraints has reached inOne measure of this success came this credible proportions.”

April, when the company decided to go public Despite the logic of his arguments, howin order to raise capital to pay off some of its ever, Federal Express’ bid for exemption was $55 million in outstanding debt. Roughly one opposed by both the established passenger million shares were offered at an initial price of $24 a share. The new issue took off faster airlines and air freight forwarders. Robert than one of the company’s new 727s. Brokers Prescott of Flying Tiger Air Freight was particularly scathing. “They [Federal Express] agreed that it was the hottest new issue since should stay on their motorcycles with their Coors Brewery went public in 1975. “We had special delivery service, where they belong,” more demand by leaps and bounds than we he fumed. had shares,” commented Ed Bennett of Dean, This air industry opposition was strong Witter, Reynolds, Inc. enough to prevent Federal Express from getAt present, public investors control only ting the right to fly bigger planes in 1976. about 26 percent of Federal Express stock.

By 1977, however, Smith’s persuasive powers Much of the remainder is controlled by the had won support from powerful figures such original venture capitalists, who have made as Senators Howard Baker and Ted Kenneout like bandits as a result of the company’s success. Fred Smith himself has maintained dy. Dozens of congressmen were wined and dined in Memphis, where they could see for a 15 percent interest in the company which themselves the efficiency and effectiveness he founded. At current market prices, his of the Federal Express operation. Most were share of Federal Express is worth around impressed. “I have seen free enterprise,” com$20 million. mented Rep. Dale Milford of Texas, “and it is Despite their success, neither Smith nor alive and well in Memphis, Tennessee.” his executive colleagues, none of whom are With such powerful allies, Federal Express over 50, seem ready to retire to the country was better able to tackle its industry oppoclub. Federal Express has grown so big that nents; its position was also improved by growthe company will be shifting to a multihub ing public support for airline deregulation. system in the near future. When operational, The so-called Federal Express Bill — which this multihub system will make it possible gave freight-carrying air taxi services the for the company to quadruple its carrying right to fly bigger planes — breezed through capacity. Already, the Federal Express route

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network connects more than 3,000 city pairs, more than any other ventures in all parts of the city. airline in America.

Indeed, the success of Federal Express has had many snowball If Federal Express has brought windfall profits to those most dieffects. Several national companies have followed Xerox’s lead and rectly involved with its birth and growth, there’s no doubt who’s been incorporated their inventory requirements at its Memphis Parts Banks. the biggest winner: the city of Memphis. More than 2,100 people work “Federal Express offers Memphis far more than the success story of at the sorting center and in the administrative offices at the airport, a 50 percent yearly expansion rate,” notes Dr. Thomas Vietorisz in making Federal Express the city’s tenth largest ema recent survey compiled by Economic Research ployer. Wages are comparatively high (hub workers Associates of Dallas. “It is the seed around which a cluster of new activities can crystallize.” start at $4.25 an hour), benefits are excellent, and the company has never had a layoff. If and when All of which is very good news for Memphis, Fedother hubs are developed, company officials insist eral Express, and Frederick W. Smith. Although a few competitors for its small-parcel express busithat Memphis will remain corporate headquarters ness have appeared on the economic horizon, the for the entire operation.

Smith is quick to point out how important employfuture of Federal Express seems extraordinarily ee esprit de corps was during the dark days of 1973 and bright. “It would take at least $300 million to take a shot at blowing Fred out of the water,” notes one 1974, when paychecks were sometimes postdated and pilots occasionally used their own personal credit local economist, “and even then the bullet would cards to purchase fuel for their aircraft. “Fred may probably miss.” have been carrying the ball,” recalls public relations Just the same, little boys and college business director Bill Carroll, “but the rest of us were blocking students should not dream too seriously of becomlike hell!” ing the Fred Smiths of the next generation. The Indeed, Federal Express employees seem reFederal Express saga must be kept in perspective. markably loyal. When Federal Express went public Such success stories have always been and probably August 1978 in April, 220,000 shares of stock were reserved for always will be as rare as snowflakes in July. Despite employees at $22 a share, $2 below the initial market price. Demand the brilliance of his air freight idea, Smith needed wealth, contacts, and a considerable amount of luck to get Federal Express airborne. was so high that shares had to be rationed, with no one receiving Money-making on this scale, unfortunately, is not for most of us. more than 328.

Besides providing employment, Federal Express has brought This does not detract from what Fred Smith and Federnew wealth and fresh talent into a city strongly in need of both al Express have achieved, however. “The development of this commodities. Many highly skilled employees — pilots, technicompany,” observes Ben Ward of Morgan, Keegan and Company, “has been the greatest single economic event in Memcians, engineers, and executives — take home more than $25,000 per year. Much of this money is now finding its way into business phis since the Holiday Inn boom of the early Sixties.”

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-how it all beganFrom 1960 to 1975, in a building on East McLemore, something extraordi nary occurred that would bring Memphis music to the world.

There’s an old saying that goes like so Keep trying and you’ll get where you want to go When things get rough, buckle down, Don’t give up — you can conquer the world with your original sound They knocked on the front door and couldn’t get in They heard a sound and went to the back door Thus the sound let them in.

— from a n ea r ly Sta x publicit y r elease

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emphis music,” says producer Jim Dickinson, “is about racial collision in both directions” — the impact of two cultures occupying the same physical space. The Memphis Sound is a direct result of that integration — whites recording blacks, learning to play from blacks, impersonating black musicians, and eventually performing alongside them. Dickinson himself was taught music by Alex, his family’s yard man — an exchange, he insists, that in 1956 “was not socially acceptable in any way, shape, or form. It was not all right for teenage white boys to do that.”

a v ersion of t his st ory or igina l ly a ppe a r ed in t he july / august 2002 issue of

MEMPHIS

maga zine.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC

by andria lisle

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC

Former schoolteacher Estelle Axton, shown here outside Stax in 1968, cofounded the studio with her brother, Jim Stewart in a former movie theater on McLemore Avenue.

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cess, entrepreneur Sam Phillips opened the Memphis Recording Service in the 1950s “with the intention of recording musicians from Memphis and the locality who I felt had something that people should be able to hear,” he says.

Recognizing the power of the raw black sound, Phillips experimented with great historical (but not financial) success with other musicians — Ike Turner, James Cotton, Rosco Gordon; even Rufus Thomas released cuts on Phillips’ Sun label. Aware that white youth wouldn’t accept the genuine article, Phillips searched for a white artist who could perform with black feeling. In the summer of 1954, as the story goes, he found what he wanted in Elvis Presley.

With other Sun artists, the story was the same. Poor rural white boys like Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash, Charlie Feathers, and Jerry Lee Lewis all learned their instruments at the hands of neighborhood black musicians. Local blacks, originators of the sound, still hung around the back door looking for a way in.

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hen came Stax. Brother and sister team Jim Stewart and Estelle Axton relocated their tiny studio from rural Tennessee to downtown Memphis in 1960, setting up shop in the unoccupied Capitol movie theater on East McLemore Avenue. More unlikely purveyors of the Memphis Sound couldn’t be imagined.

Radio, however, could not be segregated, and so the cultural revolution that made Memphis the wellspring of so much good music arrived, incongruously enough, over the airwaves. Pioneering the insurrection was Dewey Phillips, host of WHBQ’s Red, Hot, and Blue radio show. Enthusiastic and unschooled, Phillips broke all the rules of programming, as music historian Colin Escott writes, “with an eclectic mix of blues, hillbilly, and pop that would become an institution in Memphis.” Phillips’ ability to pick hits, as well as his manic sense of humor and refusal to be pigeonholed, made tuning in his radio show a daily ritual for Memphis teenagers white and black — setting the stage for sounds to come.

Less than five miles from the WHBQ studios, WDIA was making waves as the first all-black programmed radio station in the county. Armed with local luminaries such as Rufus Thomas, Dwight “Gatemouth” Moore, and Nat D. Williams, ’DIA, as folks called it, was known as the voice of Memphis’ black community. Inspired by those stations’ suc-

TOP PHOTO BY JOEL BRODSKY. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY STAX MUSEUM

Booker T. and the MGs (l-r: Booker T. Jones, Steve Cropper, Al Jackson, and Donald “Duck” Dunn) strike a famous pose on McLemore (above) and listen to a playback in Studio A at Stax.

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“We had an open-door policy,” remembers former schoolteacher Estelle Axton, in an interview decades later. “If you wanted to be heard, if you had something unique or different for us to listen to, well then, bring it in and we’d take the time to listen.” None of their plans were intentional — they just happened.

“I had scarcely seen a black person ’til I was grown,” Stewart told author Peter Guralnick in Sweet Soul Music: Rhythm and Blues and the Southern Dream of Freedom. “I had no desire to start Stax Records; I had no dream of doing anything like that. I just wanted music, just anything to be involved with music.” Located in a black working-class community, Stax offered equal opportunities for blacks and whites. And once the door opened at Soulsville USA (as the studio was called), curious neighborhood blacks began to stop in.

Carla Thomas. Isaac Hayes. David Porter. The Mad Lads. The Bar-Kays. The Astors. Booker T. Jones. These names could serve as a roll call for world-renowned black singers and musicians who grew up at Stax. Balancing the scales were white teens Steve Cropper and Donald “Duck” Dunn, who, along with Jones and drummer Al Jackson Jr., formed the MGs — the rhythm section that became the core of the Stax sound.

Accordingly, one of the label’s biggest hits came from Booker T. & the MGs, who, after recording a blues instrumental, hastily cut “Green Onions,” a B-side for the single.

Otis Redding appeared on the scene in 1962. “Like The Staple Singers, a family almost everything else that happened at Stax, the arrivgroup, were stars on the al of Redding was both unforeseen and unplanned for,” Stax Label, with “Respect writes Guralnick in Sweet Soul Music. “He was only there in Yourself” their biggest hit. the first place because he’d driven his friend, Johnny Jenkins, up from Macon, Georgia.” But once recorded, Redding hit again and again with songs like “Respect,” “Mr. Pitiful,” and “Try a Little Tenderness.”

Culminating with his appearance at the Monterey Pop Festival in hough no one realized it at the time, Stax’ days were also numbered. The “Sound of Money,” as the label once the summer of 1967, Redding, according to Guralnick, “eventually called itself, was financially destroyed after a bad distribution opened up the world of Southern soul to a large-scale white audience, making Stax a byword in soul circles.” It all ended that December, deal with CBS Records in 1972. Minor creditors forced Stax into bankwhen Redding’s plane crashed into an icy lake en route from Cleveruptcy in late 1975. That same year, drummer Al Jackson — Soulsville’s land, Ohio, to Madison, Wisconsin. His biggest seller, “(Sittin’ on) The heartbeat — was shot to death in his home. Just a few months later, Union Planters Bank shut Stax down in a foreclosure for default on Dock of the Bay,” was released posthumously. a $10 million loan. The bank sold the property to the Church of God The Staple Singers, a prominent family group on the gospel circuit, in Christ for $10. were also hitmakers for the label. Led by patriarch Pops Staples, the group — Pervis, Cleotha, Mavis (and later Yvonne) — was drawn While filming Mystery Train, director Jim Jarmusch captured the into the civil rights movement by the words of Martin facility at its worst — McLemore Avenue deserted, the Luther King Jr. “When we heard Dr. King preach,” building covered in graffiti. This was Stax in the 1980s.

Located in a workingMavis says, “Pops said, ‘Now if he can preach this, we By the time Mystery Train was released in 1989, COGIC class community, Stax can sing it. This could be our way of helping.’ So we had razed Stax with plans to build a soup kitchen. Othstarted singing protest songs!” offered opportunities for er than an inconspicuous historical marker (courtesy of the State of Tennessee) encircled with weeds, there “Respect Yourself,” their biggest Stax hit, evolved blacks and whites. were few clues that the property was ground zero for from the idea that black folks needed — and deserved soul fans. Soulsville USA was dead.

— to be proud. “Everybody is somebody” was an idiom Pops typically avowed. “There’s no big I and little you — God made Then on April 20, 2001, a crowd of 3,000 gathered at the former Stax us all.” On the Staples’ version of the song, Mavis delivered the battle site to witness the “ground shakin’ ground breakin’” for a planned cry in the second verse, her rumbling voice erupting on the phrase $20 million Stax Museum of American Soul Music and Stax Music “big ole man” on her way into the chorus. Pops’ vibrato hooks, sung Academy and Performing Arts Center. over the studio rhythm section, took the message home.

The day was overcast and windy, but jubilant musicians, fans, and But the man who made that notion a reality, Dr. King, was shot local politicians turned out to see fireworks explode as a backhoe down on April 4, 1968, at the Lorraine Motel just a mile north of symbolically dug into the earth. Isaac Hayes, Rufus Thomas, William McLemore. Riots ensued, and it seemed that Soulsville — and all of Bell, J. Blackfoot, Bar-Kays’ bassist James Alexander, and the Mad Memphis — would never be the same.

Lads’ John Gary Williams and William Brown were among the Stax

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY STAX MUSEUM

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luminaries present at what Curtis Johnson of the Astors described as “a family reunion.

Just about everybody who was anybody, and who worked with, or for, somebody at Stax, was here. It was all smiles, hugs, and love.”

“It’s been a long time coming,” declared Steve Cropper, Stax producer and guitarist for Booker T. and the MGs. “This represents the legacy of some of the greatest music that’s ever been recorded — it’s the stamp of ap-

— i n M e m p h i s H i s t o ry—

1917 — One of the coldest winters

in this region’s history causes the Mississippi River to freeze completely over, trapping and crushing steamboats in the ice, and allowing Memphians to walk all the way to Arkansas without using a bridge.

Otis Redding’s plane crashed into an icy lake en route from Cleveland, Ohio,

1910 — Memphians can’t sleep because they are so worried about Halley’s Comet crashing into the earth — an event confirmed by many scientists of the day. The comet’s tail (composed of dust particles) brushes our planet on its sweep through the solar system, but we luckily avoid a direct collision.

to Madison, Wisconsin.

1961 — Rolling back to its garage

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY STAX MUSEUM

on Broad Street, a Merrymobile suddenly bursts into flames, and its driver has to leap to safety.

The little round car, and its freezers packed with popsicles and other treats, is destroyed.

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y G R E G C R A V E N S

1939 — World-famous author and

Otis Redding’s “(Sittin’ on) The Dock of the Bay” was released after his death in 1967. It became a number-one hit for Stax.

adventurer Richard Halliburton embarks on his last expedition — trying to cross the Pacific from Hong Kong to San Francisco in a wooden Chinese sailing vessel called a “junk.” After running into a typhoon, he is never seen again.

Though he never went to school there, his parents later erect Halliburton Tower at Rhodes College in his memory.

proval of what we did back in the Sixties. This will educate the people, especially the kids, about the music.”

Author Stanley Booth, who chronicled Stax in Rythm Oil: A Journey Th rough the Music of the American South, attributes the newfound popularity of the Memphis Sound and subsequent Soulsville revival to an unlikely source: “Evidence of its reality is the long, long time it took the politicians to claim it.”

Deanie Parker, who began her career at Stax as a clerk in the Satellite Record store — and is now president and executive director of Soulsville lnc., the nonprofit organization behind the museum project — takes a humbler view. “l just want the neighborhood to sing again,” she says.

1895 — Daredevils pay 10 cents to ride the newfangled inventions called “elevators” to the top of the 10-story D.T. Porter Building, Memphis’ first skyscraper. Despite persistent rumors, the elevator cables are not pulled by mules.

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T OM L E E contin u ed from page 67 tribute than the segregated, blacks-only swimming pool on declared, “We do not know what the rule of the government Tom Lee Ayers that had been named for Lee in 1942. is about giving pensions to civilians, but if there is no rule eventually saved against it, Tom should be made comfortable for life. And So, with Boss Crump’s endorsement, Astor Park at the 32 people, and if there is a precedent against it, then this is a favorable foot of Beale Street was renamed Tom Lee Park, and the time to break it.” only a dozen or so city fathers erected a 30-foot granite obelisk there in 1952 So the Engineers Club of Memphis, which had lost so to commemorate the good deeds Lee performed back in of the Norman’s many members on the Norman, raised funds to buy a home 1925. Few visitors to the park probably took the time to read for the hero. People made donations ranging from ten cents survivors made it the inscription and its outdated tribute to “A Very Worthy to hundreds of dollars. Mayor Paine presented Lee with Negro.” When the stone shaft was shattered during the $10; Margaret Oates, the young woman with the parasol, to shore without 2003 windstorm dubbed “Hurricane Elvis” it was replaced donated $100. James Kilgore, a 9-year-old boy from Missisby a stunning bronze sculpture by Wyoming artist David his help. sippi, sent in his gift with a scrawled note: “Here is 50 cents.

Alan Clarke, showing Lee pulling a Norman passenger I am a little farmer boy and widow’s little boy, but I wanted to send into the Zev. The new monument, the centerpiece of an illuminated something to help out, so I sold my pet hen and here is the money.” plaza dedicated to Lee, is a far more impressive reminder of one man’s In a matter of weeks, enough funds were raised to buy Lee the bravery during a day of tragedy almost 90 years ago. small brick house, still standing, at 923 North Mansfield. He was also given a more secure — and considerably safer — job with the city’s sanitation department, earning 20 cents per hour. Today that hardly nother monument to Tom Lee stands in Memphis. seems a generous reward for a hero, but in the 1920s, it was perhaps the It’s considerably more modest, and for that reason it’s one that best job an unskilled black laborer could get. At any rate, he worked Lee probably would have preferred. In a quiet, shady section of there for the next 20 years.

Mt. Carmel Cemetery on Hernando Road is a small gravestone that marks the final resting place of this Memphis hero. The stone makes When Lee was granted early retirement in 1948, the city allowed no mention of the Norman tragedy, but is inscribed simply: him a pension nearly double what he would have ordinarily received.

TOM LEE And every year, from 1925 until his death, the Engineers Club gave Feb. 18, 1885 him $50 and a gift at Christmas.

April 1, 1952 Tom Lee died of cancer in 1952. His wife, Margaret, who lived with him LEA D ME IN THE PATH OF PEACE on Mansfield until his death, moved to California and died there in the 1970s. Mayor E.H. Crump decided the hero deserved a more appropriate

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The

i c b u l r e c How the

N ation a l

Civi l Ri g hts Museum

was transformed from sc a rre d to s a c re d g ro u n d.

I

f the late film director Robert Altman made one of his intertwined tales portraying modern Memphis, it would have looked something like this. An ensemble cast, each character powerful and charismatic, each representing what Memphis has become since the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.: D’Army Bailey, Lois DeBerry, Roscoe Dixon, John Ford, Dick Hackett, Benjamin Hooks, J.R. “Pitt” Hyde III, Tom Jones, Bill Morris, Chuck Scruggs, the Rev. James Smith, Maxine Smith, Jesse Turner Sr., and A.W. Willis Jr. For the plot: white mayors, businessmen, and government off icials worki ng h a nd - i n - h a nd w it h bl a ck p ol it ici a n s a nd p rofe s sio n a l s , c o nt r a sting the impossibility of such cooperation here in the dark spring of 1968.

And for the movie’s setting: One could ask for no more scarred or sacred ground than the place that saw the sacrifice of an American icon.

This, however, is no fiction. These personalities clashed, cooperated, sometimes circumvented one another, and formed coalitions toward the unprecedented goal of building a National Civil Rights Museum on that bloodstained ground. The story’s conclusion, however apparent to anyone who’s visited the South Main district, was anything but foregone in the days, months, and years after April 4, 1968. a v ersion of this story origina lly a ppea red in the a pril 2008 issue of

MEMPHIS

maga zine.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, UNIVERSIT Y OF MEMPHIS LIBRARIES

by preston lauterbach

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Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. became the face — ­ and voice — of the American civil rights movement.

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should have saved it.’”

Meanwhile, D’Army Bailey’s interest in the Lorraine grew. “I didn’t make any commitment in my own mind that I was going to do anything about it,” he says. “One day I was going to the little convenience store on the corner of Pauline and Vance to buy beer. There’s a laundromat next door where Walter Bailey, the owner of the Lorraine, went to do his laundry. As he came out of the laundromat, I came out of the convenience store, and we talked out front there about his property. If the prostitutes hadn’t been providing business, he couldn’t have kept the doors open.” left: From the balcony of the Lorraine Motel, this is the view of the boarding house. King stayed in Room 306.

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A

crowd of curious citizens and TV cameras gathered on the Shelby County Courthouse steps on the cold and breezy day of December 13, 1982, to see history sold. The Lorraine Foundation had failed to raise the $240,000 to buy the motel’s mortgage, making the site of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination the featured property at a foreclosure auction.

D’Army Bailey, Scruggs, Willis, and Turner represented the Lorraine Foundation, with Bailey doing the group’s bidding against six others including Harry Sauer, the holder of the Lorraine Motel mortgage.

The foundation carried $65,000 — $10,000 from Paul Shapiro, owner of Lucky Hearts Cosmetics, and $55,000 from donations — to the courthouse steps that morning. James Smith, president of the local chapter of the American Federation of State, County and Municipal Employees (AFSCME) — the union of Memphis sanitation workers — delivered to the group a check for $25,000. Other bidders dropped off as the price of history jumped in $5,000 increments. But it became clear to the foundation that their $90,000 would not carry the day, particularly as they looked over at their only remaining competition, Sauer.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, UNIVERSIT Y OF MEMPHIS LIBRARIES

H

ad you gone to Mulberry Street 10 years after King’s death, you would have seen two ramshackle shotgun houses, a raggedy warehouse, an abandoned nightclub, and a lounge around the Lorraine Motel. Aside from the lounge, the only profession functioning near the Lorraine was the world’s oldest. Prostitutes rented far more rooms at the rundown motel than travelers, though a few permanent tenants lived there. Weeds pushed through the concrete of the dry swimming pool. Paint flaked from the room doors, a few dangling open from their hinges.

Visitors still wanted to see the forgotten pivot point of American history. They stood on broken glass and looked up toward the balcony. The Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC) — the organization King helped found in 1957 and died as president of — installed a plaque and a glass enclosure around the door to Room 306.

You could walk upstairs and see the meager shrine inside Room 306.

Motel owner Walter Bailey’s (no relation to D’Army Bailey) wife, Loree, suffered a stroke the day of the King shooting and died five days later.

Walter displayed her high-heeled shoes and books from her library near the sheet that had been thrown over King after the shooting, and the dishes from which he ate a last supper of catfish. A few Ernest Withers photographs of King in Memphis adorned the walls. Visitors could drop a coin or fold a bill to place in a slot outside the display.

D’Army Bailey, born in Memphis, was active in civil rights as a student at Southern University from 1959 to 1962, and as an organizer in Manhattan after completing his law degree at Yale. Bailey returned to his hometown to practice law in 1973 and first visited the Lorraine in 1976. “It was depressing,” he recalls. “All I could figure was that the white city fathers saw it as a tragic site that would go away. There was a certain air of defeatism among black people. They didn’t seem to perceive that this place of tragedy was a treasure.”

Chuck Scruggs, known today as Mr. Chuck, host of a local children’s television show, came to Memphis as general manager of radio station WDIA in 1972. In the late 1970s, Scruggs’ wife, Imogene, led guests of the Memphis Council for International Friendship on tours of Memphis. “One of the requests they’d make was to see the site where Dr. King was assassinated,” Scruggs recalls. “The visitors would be in awe of the site.”

Walter Bailey, still scraping by at the Lorraine Motel, reached out to Scruggs for help preserving the site. Scruggs, aglow from a triumph in saving the town of Mound Bayou, consulted his weary staff about a potential “Save the Lorraine” campaign. “They said, ‘No way,’” he recalls.

“That was my reaction too,” Scruggs continues. “But I thought toward what would happen with that site without some special care.

I told my staff, ‘If this becomes a warehouse, the blacks will feel that the whites should have saved it, and whites would feel that blacks

rostitution and the nickels left at the Lorraine shrine failed to keep the motel afloat, and the property went into foreclosure in April 1982. Scruggs’ sense of responsibility to history overpowered his fatigue. “Fifteen years after the assassination, nobody did anything to protect the Lorraine,” he says.

Scruggs contacted key WDIA staffers A.C. Williams, Carl Conner, and Bill Atkins, along with prominent African-American banker and accountant Jesse Turner Sr. and D’Army Bailey to meet at the Petroleum Club Downtown. Turner, president of Tri-State Bank, would be named the first black Shelby County Commission chairman in 1983.

They formed the Martin Luther King Memphis Memorial Foundation, which D’Army Bailey chartered as a tax-exempt nonprofit; Scruggs was the first president. At its outset the foundation had no money and no designs on the motel apart from protection.

The foundation made another key addition with A.W. Willis Jr., an attorney and mortgage broker. Willis earned a law degree from the University of Wisconsin in 1953 at a time when African Americans were segregated from Southern law schools. He returned to Memphis and opened the first integrated law firm in the city, which represented James Meredith in 1961 when Meredith broke the color barrier at the University of Mississippi. Willis built more political muscle in 1964 as the first African American elected to the state general assembly since Reconstruction and as the corner man in Harold Ford Sr.’s 1974 election to Congress.

In existence for only a few days, the group found much to accomplish.

First, they received a letter from Coretta Scott King’s attorney requesting that they not use her husband’s name. Members rechristened their group the Lorraine Civil Rights Museum Foundation. Scruggs visited Walter Bailey, asked him to take down the shrine in Room 306, and struck a deal to purchase the Lorraine for $240,000. Scruggs obtained a stay on the foreclosure and hatched a plan to raise the necessary funds.

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As the figure neared the foundation’s threshold, Turner made it known that TriState Bank would loan the foundation $50,000 on a handshake if they could find an underwriter. Willis searched the crowd for friendly faces, and found Paul Shapiro to guarantee $25,000. AFSCME’s Smith guaranteed the other half, boosting the foundation bidding power to $140,000. Bailey says that he went $4,000 past the foundation’s limit, and punctuated his last bid to signal the exhaustion of funds to Sauer.

Sauer went silent and the gavel dropped.

“It was a glorious feeling,” Scruggs recalls.

Bailey concurs, adding, “But what are we going to do with it?”

mayors’ participation in the museum project contrasts sharply with Henry Loeb’s refusal to negotiate with Memphis sanitation workers. The city and county’s initial involvement amounted to $10,000 for a consultant to issue a call for bids on the project. “When we saw Ben Lawless’ plan, it clicked right away that this was the guy we’d need,” Bailey says.

Lawless, a retired exhibition director of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of American History, first came to Memphis in the early 1980s to consult with an upstart Elvis Presley Enterprises as it attempted to make a tourist attraction out of Graceland. With the property acquired and a concept in place, the foundation needed only to collect Lawless’ estimated cost for the project: $8.8 million. The museum dehe first years The museum symbolizes sign firm Eisterholdllewellyn were a struggle. “We won the privilege to develop the city’s progress went to [Walter Bailey] the exhibits. Distinguished from April 1968. and told him to keep operathistorians Spencer Crew and ing it, and keep whatever money he made,” James Horton — both African-American — D’Army Bailey recalls. “I would have to call defined the story told in the museum. “We Memphis Light, Gas and Water and ask them were only $8.8 million and the $50,000 that not to shut off the utilities, and to their credwe owed Tri-State Bank short,” Bailey quips. it they didn’t.”

D’Army Bailey assumed the foundation’s presidency from Scruggs in late 1983 and took ones and Morris, though supa dominant role in shaping the project. “It portive of the project, understood that came to me that if we’re going to have the site the public might not wholeheartedly of King’s death, let’s use it to tell the world concur. “It was an incredibly hard sell,” Jones about the whole struggle.” explains. “The political dynamic was against doing something ‘black.’ The county legislaBailey claims the concept, but Scruggs tive body was predominantly white, Repuband others credit Willis with naming it the lican, and the city’s was essentially the same.

National Civil Rights Museum. Bailey acThis project was the crucible for Memphis.” knowledges Willis’ contributions, though he says that he and advertising executive John Meanwhile, Willis and Bailey, along with Malmo actually named it.

John Dudas and Ann Abernathy of the Center Tom Jones became involved in the LorCity Commission, burned countless gallons raine project in 1985 while serving as an aide of gasoline on I-40 between Memphis and to Shelby County Mayor Bill Morris. “The Nashville as they aggressively pushed the person we dealt with the most in those days, project in the state legislature. They went and the unsung hero of the museum, was A.W. door-to-door down the state house halls seekWillis,” Jones recalls. “The county became ing votes for the bill Dixon had introduced — involved because of their respect for him.” with the request reduced to $4.4 million per Morris had been Shelby County Sheriff Lawless’ suggestion of a state, county, and city when King was assassinated, and transportsplit — to finance the museum’s construction. ed James Earl Ray from London, where Ray State senator John Ford and representatives Dixon and Lois DeBerry rallied other black was apprehended, to Memphis. Elected county mayor in 1976, he recognized the unique legislators to show united support, and the opportunity to make the museum a reality. bill passed the state legislature in spring 1986.

“We’d approved projects for different conJones thinks that the museum developstituencies, but this was the first time that I’d ment marked a point of arrival in Memphis’ had the opportunity to take a strong stand for history. “This museum could symbolize all the African Americans in our community,” that Memphis can be. There seemed to be a new momentum to reaching across racial diMorris explains.

Bailey says that city mayor Dick Hackett vides that were like chasms in this city.” Bailey was a willing and powerful ally as well. The says that with the state funds approved, the

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city and county fell in line with their shares.

The National Civil Rights Museum had $8.8 million behind it by summer 1987, a time of triumph and impending tragedy. Willis, one of the inspirational and indispensable figures in the making of the museum, fell ill and died July 14, 1988, at age 63.

Controversy followed the museum’s windfall. Ford disputed the selection of Tony Bologna as architect on the project. Eventually, state architect Mike Fitts, who supervised the project, chose the black-owned Nashville firm of McKissack and McKissack.

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The Lorraine Motel ceased operations January 10, 1988. Longtime tenant Jackie Smith refused to leave. She closed herself up in her room and was forcibly removed on March 2nd. She set up a protest outside the museum that continues to this day. Despite lawsuits, civic arguments, and Smith’s civil disobedience, construction of the National Civil Rights Museum began on June 25, 1990.

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’Army Bailey recognized the need to diversify the Lorraine Foundation’s board of directors and add to the group of political professionals and civil rights veterans he’d assembled. “We needed to raise a half-million dollars for artwork for the museum entryway and to finance operations,” Bailey explains. “I had come to know a handful of white businessmen with Leadership Memphis. When I needed money to do this artwork, I decided to go to Pitt Hyde.”

Hyde, founder of AutoZone, says that the museum concept fit nicely with the philanthropic goals of the Hyde Foundation to promote education in Memphis and make the city attractive to skilled workers. His involvement also fulfilled a personal ideal. “I was not an activist, but I’d been very supportive of the movement,” Hyde says.

As the project’s driving force, Bailey felt a singular responsibility to the museum, but less so to his board. He maintains that he could not work with the Nashville development group while clearing every decision with the Memphis board. “They knew things were happening,” Bailey says, “but they didn’t

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have any grip on them, because they were isolated from it.” He disrupted meetings to prevent the board from offering input. “I would conduct a one-man filibuster to keep them from voting, if necessary,” he says.

“The meetings were explosive,” Jones recalls.

“In time, it just wore a majority of the members down. Those days were often D’Army screaming at Pitt Hyde, or somebody else.”

“It was a power struggle,” Scruggs says.

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he museum moved forward despite the deepening of personal conf lict on the board. On July 4, 1991, a crowd of more than 5,000 gathered on a steamy morning to witness Rosa Parks cut a red, white, and blue ribbon at the museum dedication ceremony. “When I came to Memphis to join the march along with Mrs. King [April 8, 1968], I could not even think about coming to this site,” she told the crowd. “I did not want to see the place where he lost his life.

But today I’m very happy and proud to be here and be part of this museum.”

Arkansas governor Bill Clinton, then flirting with a run at the Oval Office, looked on as Jesse Jackson addressed the contingent. “I stood here 23 years ago when the fateful shot was fired,” Jackson bellowed. “It’s tough to be here. The wound is still open.”

Certain political implications of that day further illustrated the differences between Bailey and board colleagues. “Some of us felt that maybe Bill Clinton shouldn’t be there, or that someone from both sides should be there,” Scruggs says. “I was concerned about the organization getting caught up in political conflict.”

At 10 a.m. on Saturday, September 28, 1991, the National Civil Rights Museum opened to the public when museum foundation charter members Bailey and Scruggs joined Allegra Turner and Archie Willis III, wife and son of Jesse Turner and A.W. Willis Jr., respectively, to sever symbolic chains of oppression.

Meanwhile, Jackie Smith continued her protest, blaring King’s delivery of his “I Have a Dream” speech from a portable cassette player during the opening festivities. The museum hosted between 800 to 900 visitors that day.

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P

erhaps, as Bailey asserts, the museum required a bullish, dominant leader to see it to completion. That job done, though, the museum board sought change. “Members of the board felt that we were on the verge of squandering everything that we had worked for,” Jones says. “This institution is bigger than all of us. Chuck said, ‘If we all have to go, then let’s all leave. It’s this museum that’s important.’”

Scruggs backed these words up less than a year after the museum’s opening. “I led 100 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 9

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the effort to get Bailey off the board,” he explains. “I was chairman of the bylaws committee. What we did was set term limits. I knew that I was out when I agreed to the term limits, but I couldn’t think of another way to do it. I crashed the plane with D’Army and me in it.”

Meanwhile, Maxine Smith, president of the local NAACP chapter, put out feelers to a potential replacement, outgoing NAACP national president Benjamin Hooks. On June 13, 1992, the board voted Hooks in as president. Bailey walked out of the meeting and resigned his post on the board.

“It hurt and still hurts,” Bailey says. “But it wasn’t the first time I’d hurt. I resigned because the board was solidly against me.

What was I to stay there for?” That, as Bailey says, wouldn’t be the “D’Army style.”

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he making of the National Civil Rights Museum left some of its hardest workers bitter. It simply would not have happened, though, had a coalition of diverse individuals not rolled up their sleeves and sweated together. The museum symbolizes the city’s progress from April 1968.

“There will be a point in time when historians look back at the museum as the bookend to the awfulness of the King tragedy,” Jones says. “The museum process showed that good things could happen if people didn’t just react to the same old prejudices and messages.”

The museum’s effect on visitors stems from that spirit. “Someone told me that standing there looking at King’s room was the most powerful moment of his life,” Jones says. “And that’s happening every day down there.”

“I’ll never forget when Nelson Mandela came to tour the museum,” Hyde says.

“We got out on the balcony, and Mandela stopped. He said: ‘I can feel the presence of Dr. King. This is holy ground.’”

Beverly Robertson, executive director of the museum since 1997, admits that the 17-year-old facility needs some upgrades. She foresees structural renovation, technological updates of the exhibits, and a national marketing campaign in the museum’s future. But she also wishes to see new stories told within the museum walls.

“We haven’t really told the backstory of this place,” she says. “We don’t talk about Mr. Bailey, who owned the Lorraine Motel.

But we have to embrace all of those people who had a role in making this happen. I don’t want to marginalize any of them. That’s one story we’ve got to tell here in the museum — how it moved from the Lorraine Motel to become the National Civil Rights Museum.”

The museum, greatly expanded in recent years, is currently a finalist for the 2019 National Medal for Museum and Library Service.

T H AT M O S T U N C I V I L WA R contin u ed from page 35

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Showing considerable courage and restraint, the men were taunted and accosted by a mob the entire way. One of their flags was snatched away and shredded on the spot.

The mayor and police finally got the Union men to the post office, where they broke open the doors and climbed through a hatch to the roof, only to discover that there was no flagpole on top of the building. They fashioned one from two pieces of wood flooring, spliced together with bandages that one of the men — a medical cadet — had in his pocket.

As they raised the American f lag, the mob below hurled rocks. From an adjacent building, a man shot at them with a pistol.

Then the crowd surged into the building, but couldn’t get through the hatchway to the roof with two hefty local police officers standing on top of it.

When the Union men came down to the fourth floor, the rabble refused to let them leave, saying they were going to climb up and tear down the flag. One of the cadets pulled out a pistol and informed the mob’s spokesman that he was about to be shot. The man backed down.

The mayor pleaded with the crowd to go away, warning them that if the Union sailors were not released, the Federal fleet (which had been hit by exactly one Confederate cannonball during the battle) would bombard the city. Before his speech was finished, however, the ground rumbled with an aftershock from the aforementioned earthquake. The crowd dispersed, conflict was averted, and Memphis was successfully occupied.

Until 2017, in Confederate Park the bronze effigy of Jefferson Davis looked out upon a city that bears little resemblance to the Memphis of 1862. For decades his upward gaze had been permanently fixed toward the Stars and Stripes flying atop a gleaming building that is the namesake of his nemesis, the Lincoln American Tower. Perhaps it’s worth noting that the tower, a beautifully restored 1926 architectural jewel, stands on the site of the Irving Block, converted into a prison used by the occupying Yankees to house Confederate sympathizers after the fall of the city in 1862.

Perhaps it’s just as fitting to recall that despite Nathan Bedford Forrest’s famous 1864 foray into the city, his raid did not succeed in rescuing any of those Irving Block prisoners, and the Union general he tried to take hostage got away — a failure memorialized by the aptly named General Washburn’s Escape Alley, between Front Street and South Main.

In an era when so much of the remaining controversy over the Civil War is about flags, symbols, and perceptions, we need always remember that the outcome of that war is no longer in doubt, and that sometimes the past can be a capricious guide to a harmonious future.

consolidated Commercial Appeal lent its support: “If this crime goes unpunished, every friend of Memphis must be dumb before the accusations of its enemies.”

Thirteen white men were, in fact, brought to trial for this particular crime. And although no convictions were obtained, there was evidence at least of a change of mood and mentality in the Bluff City. Twenty-three years would pass before another lynching took place in Shelby County, and that sad event proved to be the last of its kind. Memphis was still decades away from real racial equality, but at least the terror of lynch law had finally ended.

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Ida B. Wells remained an international civil rights advocate up until her death, at the age of 69, in 1931.

Much of the credit must be given to Ida Wells. Ironically, she never returned to Memphis. After her tours of Great Britain, she settled in Chicago and in 1895 married Ferdinand L. Barnett, publisher of the Chicago Conservator. Over the next decade, they had four children, two sons and two daughters.

Despite her family responsibilities, Ida Wells Barnett remained active in black politics. She was one of the founders of the National Federation of Afro-American Women and the first female financial secretary for the African Methodist Episcopal Church. In 1909 she attended the founding conference for the NAACP in New York, where she delivered a detailed report on lynching. As founder and chairperson of the Anti-Lynching League, she traveled about the country, visiting scenes of lynchings, gathering data, and consoling the families of victims.

The World War I era found her actively involved in the suffragette campaign; in 1913 she founded the Alpha Suffrage Club, dedicated to winning the right to vote for black women. She and her colleagues marched side by side in Chicago with white suffragettes.

Memphis’ loss proved to be America’s gain, as Wells remained politically active in civil rights up until her death, at the age of 69, in 1931. Little wonder that her obituary echoed the sentiments of those who worked beside her in the NAACP and the Alpha Suffrage Club; to them she was and would remain “the black queen of our race.”

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years, Browning’s share of the local vote road to anything worthwhile.”

But whatever Crump was as a private indihad plummeted from 95 to 14 percent. Not vidual, he became something else as a public for the first time, Crump had demonstrated the stranglehold he had upon Tennessee figure. His benevolence was bestowed only politics. upon those who agreed with him; with his Not surprisingly, his ironclad control of enemies, he could be considerably less charstate government helped reinforce his organiitable. A reporter for The Economist visited zation in his hometown. Boss Crump became Memphis in 1943 and described him as “less an object of considerable civic pride, especialthe traditional American political leader and ly after national publications like Collier’s and more the modern dictator.”

But was he? Crump’s rise to power, after The Saturday Evening Post began running articles about “Mr. Crump’s Memphis.” And after all, was not accomplished by the sound of all, how could the local citizenry complain, jackboots hitting the pavement. While he when the State of Tennessee did use his enormous powwas essentially functioning er to reward his friends and But Crump’s most as a public corporation run by punish his enemies, there immediate concern, were no Brownshirts reand for its minority stockholders in Memphis? quired in the Crump ranks, and the one which To explain the political sucno Gestapo patrolling the gained him widest cess of Edward Hull Crump three Parkways he built. simply in terms of organizaBut in one respect, his popular support, tional efficiency and electorsuccess was at least similar was changing the to that of Mussolini and Hital manipulations is a bit too structure of city ler. Like them, he was put simplistic. As in the case of most major political figures into office by the people, by government. a populace quite willing to from Julius Caesar to John F. sacrif ice the essentials of Kennedy, his own character democracy for a government that was efwas of crucial importance. “There was really ficient and orderly, one that “got the job nothing very special about his techniques,” done.” So what if a few rebels got their observes Memphis State professor Kenneth feelings hurt? So what if a few labor orgaWald. “But he was special in the sense that nizers were beaten up in alleys? Weren’t he had the foresight to use them to maximum the streets clean? Didn’t the buses run advantage.” on time?

Whatever one thinks of Crump’s ideals Memphis during the Thirties and the or methods, one must admit that he was a Forties may have been a dictatorship, but if consummate politician, a man of genius in it was, the fault lay not with Crump but with his chosen field who, for decades, never let Memphians themselves. He could not have his finger slip far away from the pulse of the been anything they did not want him to be. community.

State Attorney General Will Gerber spoke “Whatever history may say of Mr. Crump,” for most of the city’s citizens when he said this observed Shields MacIlwaine in his 1948 book, in 1941: “Mr. Crump is engineer, conductor, Memphis Down in Dixie, “it must say that in him and flagman. He runs the train. He has never Memphians were lucky: He was better than run late, never had a wreck, and always been they deserved.” While he wielded as much on time. We [in Memphis] are all tickled to (if not more) power as legendary bosses like death to be riding with him.”

Pendergast in Kansas City and Tweed in New As far as most Memphians were concerned, York, Crump’s intentions were considerably they were just happy to be passengers on Mr. more benevolent. No one ever accused Crump Crump’s train. of taking a single dime out of the public coffers, and while many leading citizens found In the 1948 gubernatorial elections, Tennessee it politically expedient to maintain at least voters returned Gordon Browning to that office; a one insurance policy with E.H. Crump and major factor in his victory was a result of a dramatic Co., Crump went to great lengths to keep reduction of the state’s poll tax in 1943, enabling his business and political careers as separate increased voter participation across the state. as possible.

In 1952, six-term Senator Kenneth McKellar of The man himself epitomized the classic Memphis was defeated in the Tennessee Democratic Anglo-Saxon virtues; his entire life was Primary by Albert Gore Sr., father of the future vice one prudent pursuit of prosperity. “It is a president, effectively ending Mr. Crump’s two-define thing to be an important person in the cade dominance of Tennessee politics. world,” he wrote to his son on one occaEdwin Hull Crump passed away two years later, sion, “but this always takes conscientious on October 16, 1954, at the age of 80, and is buried preparation. None of us just spring to fame in Elmwood Cemetery. or distinction overnight. There is no royal

ture windows through which the lights of Memphis glimmered like an ocean of colored stars. Tables were set on terraces around the dance floor, separated only by a silver filigree rail. The Skyway was the epitome of what was expected of a nightclub in the late Thirties — mushy romance mixed with gaudy futurism, with a hint of well-heeled propriety thrown in for good luck.

On May 12, 1939, dinner was served in the Skyway at 7:30. By the time the wedding party concluded in the Venetian Dining Room and its participants made their way up to the Skyway, the Griff Williams Orchestra had already been through its first set of the evening. The room was filled to capacity; during its brief history to date, the Skyway had never opened to less than a capacity house.

Being a “hotel band,” the orchestra would have been called upon to play not only the new swing tunes that the youngsters in the crowd wanted to hear, but also the old standbys that would find a sympathetic ear with the older patrons. So the band alternated snappy numbers like “Goody-Goody” with “I Wonder Who’s Kissing Her Now.” At 10:30 the orchestra stopped playing, and the crowd was asked to pipe down for a moment while the WREC announcer went through the lead-in for the nightly radio program from The Peabody: “Coming to you this evening from the Skyway Room, high atop the beautiful Hotel Peabody in Downtown Memphis, one of the South’s finest, one of America’s most ...”

On Monday nights for the past year and a half, CBS had picked up the WREC/Peabody show from its local “feed,” broadcasting it nationwide, from either the Marine Roof (weather permitting) or the Continental Ballroom. For an hour, people all over the country on Monday nights had gotten used to tuning into Memphis and partaking of the rhythms and atmosphere at The Peabody.

This being Friday night, the crowd in the Skyway was treated to a long and especially tight series of performances from the band, lasting well into Saturday morning’s wee hours.

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nd that was that. The Peabody had lived through Cotton Carnival Friday, 1939, and survived. All that was left was to see to it that the Skyway patrons found their way somewhat rockily to their guest rooms or out to their cars for the tipsy drive home through the quiet streets of early morning Memphis.

The ducks slept and the night shift tended to business, and as sure as the sun would rise, The Peabody would be ready to face Cotton Carnival Saturday.

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Congratulates Memphis on its 200th anniversary

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H S T. E D U

FOR THE RECORD

Memphis is known, far and wide, as a music town.

Here are ten albums — a tiny slice of the impact — that explain why.

ELVIS PRESLEY The Sun Sessions0

RCA 1987 The finest music of his life was the first batch of records he ever made. Among a hundred revelations to be heard in this collection are these: He was a better singer than any of the crooners or rock-and-rollers whose disparate music he links. His stylistic synthesis of country, blues, and gospel sounds smoother, more effortless, and more complete than any of his contemporaries. Until he decided to start covering Little Richard a little later on, he improved everything he touched. His blues were better (Junior Parker, Arthur Crudup).

His country was better (Bill Monroe). His standards were better (“Blue Moon”). — chris herrington

JOHNNY CASH With His Hot And Blue GuitarB

SUN 1957 Perhaps equaling the originality of Elvis, the sound Cash conjured up with the Tennessee Two stood on its own terms. The sparse arrangements of guitarist Luther Perkins and bassist Marshall Grant wrapped around Cash’s stern baritone, filled with the gravitas of the ages. Instantly iconic, it contrasted starkly with records from Nashville, which were already taking on a more polished sound. And, as the label’s first LP, this was also a groundbreaking release for Sun Records. — alex greene

HOWLIN’ WOLF Moanin’ in the MoonlightA

CHESS 1958 Like Elvis on RCA, this was an LP on a non-Memphis label that oozed pure Bluff City vibes. Indeed, “How Many More Years” and “Moanin’ at Midnight” (the artist’s first hit singles) along with “All Night Boogie” were recorded in Memphis by Sam Phillips, who proclaimed that Wolf’s voice was “where the soul of man never dies.” Ultimately guitarist Hubert Sumlin was summoned to Chicago from Memphis as a key player in Wolf’s band for years, forever cinching the Memphis-Mississippi roots of an artist first brought to Phillips by Ike Turner. — ag

BOOKER T. & THE MG’S Green Onions1

STA X 1962 Though the fabled studio on McLemore had already released singles on Atlantic or its own Satellite label, this was the first LP released on the newly rechristened Stax imprint, rising to #33 on the pop charts. And it was all due to an impromptu jam session, when the MGs, slated to back Billy Lee Riley, began doing their own thing. Their spontaneous creation instantly put the minimalist, rawer sound of Stax on the map, laying the groundwork for nearly every Stax hit that followed. — ag

OTIS REDDING Otis BlueQ

STA X 1965 Sam Cooke had been killed just prior to the recording, and Redding, in inheriting Cooke’s mantle as the world’s finest soul singer, spikes the record with revelatory covers of three Cooke classics: “Wonderful World,” “Shake,” and “Change Gonna Come.” With originals such as the future Aretha Franklin classic “Respect” and his soon-to-be-trademark ballad “I’ve Been Loving You Too Long” putting it over the top, Otis Blue stands as Redding’s testament. — ch

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ISAAC HAYES Hot Buttered Soul7

ENTERPRISE 1969 Already a respected writer and arranger for Stax, Hayes found that this lark of an album helped put the new post-Atlantic Stax on the map. Indeed, though its commercial success came as a surprise, it helped forge the “new Stax sound,” with grander arrangements and a slicker brand of funk (the band here is the Bar-Kays). It also signaled the birth of longer, lusher songs that could only exist in the LP format, like Hayes’ version of “By the Time I Get to Phoenix,” clocking in at more than 18 minutes. — ag

BIG STAR #1 Record0

ARDENT 1972 Rivaling New York’s Velvet Underground as rock-and-roll’s definitive semi-popular band, these four Anglophilic Memphis kids holed up in Ardent Studios and concocted a beautifully fractured vision of pure pop, like mid-period Beatles turned upside down and inside out. When the restless rock-and-roll haiku of “In the Street” segues into the adolescent yearning of “Thirteen,” it may say more about teendom than any band ever has. — ch

AL GREEN Call MeQ

HI 1973 In 1973, Green may have been the last of the true soul singers, an established star and hitmaker with nothing left to prove. And in 1973, Al Green outdid himself. Call Me is a 35-minute epic, an album of overwhelming intimacy and command that encapsulates everything that made Green and the Hi sound great and then made each and every element of that style even better. Green’s brilliance is a daring lexicon of slurs, moans, purrs, and whispers occasionally interrupted by falsetto swoops that dart all around the groove. His singing style might be a jazzlike indulgence if he wasn’t a genius, but he is, and his genius never flowered fuller than on Call Me. — ch

VARIOUS ARTISTS Hustle & Flow: Music From and Inspired by the Motion PictureJ

GRA ND HUSTLE, ATLA NTIC 2005 When Three 6 Mafia won the Academy Award for their contribution to this soundtrack, it was merely the culmination of careers that had begun a full decade earlier. The sounds they pioneered in the 1990s have lived on in the twenty-first century, sampled repeatedly for today’s hits. And while this album also included Atlanta artists, Memphis runs deep here, with tracks from Al Kapone, Nasty Nardo (sampling Project Pat), 8Ball & MJG, and others. It’s the same Bluff City trap sound that dominates the hip-hop charts now. — ag

JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE The 20/20 Experience0

RCA 2013 After bringing sexy back, Justin Timberlake ditched the more conventional pop jams with 2013’s The 20/20 Experience. With songs averaging out to seven minutes, spacy tracks featuring extended vamping, sudden key changes, experimental afrobeat rhythms, and killer guitar solos by Elliot Ives are the name of the game. Timberlake is flanked by a full complement of brass, percussion, and strings courtesy of backing band The Tennessee Kids. Is it pop? Soul? R&B? Ultimately, one label doesn’t do it justice. Despite a sixyear hiatus from music prior to its release, The 20/20 Experience reaffirms Timberlake’s ability to effortlessly blend styles in the pursuit of, as a collaborator calls it, “music that you can see.” — samuel x. cicci

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

CharlesW.Crawford The University of Memphis professor has spent a lifetime helping to bring the past into the present.

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by michael finger lthough both gentlemen obviously share a deep interest in local history, Dr. Charles W. Crawford would probably never tolerate working with Vance Lauderdale for very long. This magazine’s history columnist often brags about the amount of time he spends sleeping, napping, or dozing. Meanwhile, the University of Memphis professor, and director of that institution’s long-running Oral History Project, doesn’t sleep much at all and never seems to stop working.

EDI TOR’S NO T E: “Local Treasures” is an occasional series that celebrates our city’s senior celebrities, people whose impact over the decades has helped make Memphis

PHOTOGRAPH BY LARRY KUZNIEWSKI

a better place.

Dr. Charles W. Crawford outside his office in Mitchell Hall on the University of Memphis campus.

“I found out in graduate school that I could subsist on four-anda-half hours of sleep at night,” he says, sitting in his office/library in Mitchell Hall, home of the U of M’s history department. “I mainly sleep on the weekends. And when my day here ends at 4:30, if I stay until midnight, I gain another day.” What’s more, when he is writing a book or journal article, which is quite often, he will write all night. “And then I get up and get ready for the morning class,” he says.

Only by putting in double-days and not wasting time sleeping, it seems, has Crawford been able to compile a curriculum vitae that spans 15 single-spaced pages, lined with lists of publications, honors, memberships, and other accomplishments. Along the way, he has befriended such politicians as former Tennessee governors Winfield Dunn and Lamar Alexander, whose portraits hang behind his desk, along with a photo of a young Albert Gore Jr., inscribed, “To my great friend and teacher.”

In the late 1960s, Gore was attending Harvard, and “they had a deprived curriculum there,” says Crawford, “since they did not teach Tennessee history. So he, or more likely his father, thought it was vital that he learn Tennessee history. He came here to take my class one summer before his senior year, and we got acquainted. I encouraged him to have his own political career.”

Crawford later worked for Gore, in small ways, when he was in the Senate, “handling travel and other things for him when he was in Congress, and then of course as vice president. I was working on a book during his

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“Retrieving memories is like dealing with a flood. You’re trying to save what you can.”

— dr. charles crawford

first inauguration, but went to Washington for the second one.

I was really hoping he would be president in 2000.”

Without naming anybody specifically, Crawford observes, “Tennessee could really use some good political leadership, and if they want to run for office, just let me know. I will make a small, teacher-sized contribution, but it would be the best kind of money, which is early money — before anyone believes in you.”

they would appoint an advisor — usually your father — and you would earn merit badges and all that,” he says. “It was a remnant of the past, when a lot of America was rural.”

With few companions, “the farm was where I developed my lifelong habit of reading,” he says.

“Even today, every time I have a break, or don’t have to watch when I’m driving, I’m usually reading a book or something.”

Crawford earned a bachelor’s degree from Harding College in Searcy, Arkansas, a master’s degree from the University of Arkansas, and a Ph.D. from the University of Mississippi — all in history. He landed his first teaching job at the high school in the little town of Lewisville, Arkansas, near the Texas border. “That was very educational for me,” he says, “because there were only four or five of us in the whole social sciences department, so I would teach political science,

Crawford’s many political friends include Al Gore Jr. and Lamar Alexander, shown here during his 1978 campaign for governor.

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s a young boy growing up on the family farm along the Spring River in Arkansas, Crawford spent a lot of time alone. The farm was so isolated that when he joined the Boy Scouts, eventually reaching the rank of Star Scout, he had to take part in their “Lone Scout” program. “When there weren’t enough people to form a troop,

geography, history, and so forth.”

After pondering a career as an FBI agent (“Government service looked like fun,” he says), Crawford decided he would make a good history professor, since “you’d get to deal with things you were already interested in, and help people, too.” He started his long teaching career as a graduate assistant in history at Ole

Miss, and in 1962 was hired as an assistant professor at then-Memphis State University, where he has remained ever since.

Along the way, he has earned an impressive number of accolades, including such honors as the Book of Golden Deeds Award from the Exchange Club of Memphis, the National Teacher of the Year Award from the Daughters of the American Revolution, the Meritorious Faculty Award from the University of Memphis, and a Resolution of Appreciation from the Tennessee State Senate.

These accolades (and many others) are a tribute to his teaching, writing, and editing skills.

After serving as editor of Cal Alley, the 1973 biography of Th e Commercial Appeal’s longtime political cartoonist, Crawford published his first book, Yesterday’s Memphis, an illustrated history of this city, in 1976. Others followed, including Tennessee: Land, History, and Government (1984), Dynamic Tennessee (1990), and National Bank of Commerce: The First 120 Years (1993). Working on the NBC history presented special challenges. “People in the bank were very skeptical of what I was doing,” he recalls, laughing. “They thought I was a secret bank examiner or something.”

One of Crawford’s bookshelves is lined with gray-spined books that tell the history of almost every county in Tennessee, and he served as editor or co-editor of most of them. His contributions to local history also include work as a consultant on the 1984 film The Old Forest, associate editor of the Memphis Encyclopedia published by Rhodes College, manuscript reader for the Tennessee Historical Quarterly, book reviews and other articles for the West Tennessee Historical Society Quarterly, and commentary for history programs aired on local television (especially WKNO-TV) from the 1990s to the present day.

An especially valuable project was the compilation of Commercial Appeal columns written by historian Paul R. Coppock in the

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY CHARLES CRAWFORD

LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

1970s and 1980s. Co-edited by Crawford and Coppock’s wife, Helen, and published over a span of nine years, the four volumes of Paul Coppock’s Mid-South are almost essential reading for anyone interested in local history.

I

n the 1960s, Columbia University began to compile interviews from politicians who had been involved in President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal program, designed to provide public-works jobs during the Depression. Their efforts were distributed to other researchers and libraries, and — thanks to the advent of portable tape recorders — other schools around the country began their own oral history programs.

“In 1967, I was appointed by Cecil C. Humphries [U of M president from 1960 to 1972] to head up the Oral History Project here,” says Crawford. The department’s first task was an oral history of the Tennessee Valley Author-

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“Tennessee could use some good political leadership, and if they ever want to run for office, just let me know.”

— dr. charles crawford ity. “We had plenty of money for travel, and I would go to New York or California or Florida or Wisconsin and was able to interview most of the surviving high-level people who had been involved in the early days of TVA,” he says. “If anyone does serious research on that topic, they almost have to go through our collection.”

The Oral History Project contains thousands of taped interviews conducted by paid workers or students. Some of their efforts are rewarded with grant money, but “quite a lot of the interviews are done because people simply want to do them,” says Crawford. “At a university, people are supposed to have curiosity about knowledge.”

The collection includes such major topics as “Martin Luther King: Assassination in Memphis,” “The Centennial Oral History of the University of Memphis,” “Memphis During the Crump Era,” “Tennessee Political History: 1920s to the Present,” and dozens of others. Many of the interviews have been transcribed, but many are still available only as audiotapes, stored on reels.

One of the Project’s largest endeavors is “Memoirs of World War II Veterans in Memphis and the Mid-South.” That has proven to be especially challenging, because so many veterans — many of them in their twilight

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years now — are passing away. “Those interviews haven’t yet been transcribed, because at the rate they were disappearing, we thought we’d put the effort in getting the interviews done, and the transcriptions could come later,” says Crawford. “Let’s try to do one more, then one more, and so forth.” The collection currently contains more than 400 interviews.

Crawford is well aware of the hurdles facing many of these projects, because the work can get lost, or the fragile tapes can be damaged. His department was involved in a major oral history project with a local hospital, but when that facility moved its main

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Crawford has headed the University of Memphis Oral History Project since its founding in 1967.

campus east, all the tapes were misplaced in the move; they still haven’t been located.

“Retrieving memories is like dealing with a flood,” he says. “You’re trying to save what you can before the flood waters get there. You’re always racing against death when you’re doing oral history interviews. You have to get them while the people are still living, and you have only a certain amount of time. If it’s not done, or” — referring to the hospital project — “if it’s done and then lost, it’s a tragedy.”

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pace prevents listing all the history organizations that have benefitted from Crawford’s efforts. They include local groups such as the Memphis Arts Council, Leadership Memphis, Shelby County Historical Commission, West Tennessee Historical Society, Tennessee Historical Society, and Tennessee Humanities Council. On a national level, he has been involved with the Oral History Association, National Endowment for the Humanities, and the Or-

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LOC A L TR E A SU R ES

ganization of American Historians. He has put in many hours as an editor or editorial referee for university presses in Tennessee, Mississippi, Arkansas, Kentucky, Illinois, and Georgia. He has even served as a consultant to the American Red Cross, when that group compiled an oral history of its early days.

“But all that is just job stuff,” Crawford says.

He seems most proud of the many students he has worked with over the years, and his résumé includes a long list of students he has mentored — as a teacher, adviser, or thesis or dissertation director — with many of them moving on to professional roles in education, libraries, journalism, and other fields.

“It’s not that West Tennessee finally has history. We’ve always had a lot of history,” he says. “But we have people in our department now who are committed to publishing

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it, and the work is getting recognition. I’ve enjoyed seeing that happen, and perhaps even to nudge them along a little.”

He certainly stays busy. On the afternoon of this interview, he was taking his Memphis history class on a tour of the Harahan Bridge and the Big River Crossing, the Church on the River, and even the WREG-TV studios (“since we’re also learning about the history of communication”). If time permits, the professor wants to show them Martyrs Park, “so they can learn about the yellow fever epidemic.” For Crawford, these places are also a classroom, “just a different kind of classroom.”

Don’t even mention the word “retirement” to him. This summer, he intends to take a brief respite from teaching to return to the Arkansas farm still owned by his family but doesn’t plan to stay there very long. “It’s a nice place to get away,” he says, “but I would be bored if I spent a long time in the country.

I’ve learned to appreciate urban life. It’s good to have bright lights, music, things going on, places to go, lots of friends around.”

He will take some time off from teaching next year, because in the spring of 2020, the University of Memphis is offering him a sabbatical so he can write his memoirs. “It’s just some of the things I’ve been talking about, some of the things I’ve seen.”

For the man who has heard thousands of others tell their stories, Dr. Charles Crawford has decided it’s finally time to write his own.

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to it f . s gs t o od g,” are ow in par fo in at . kn th g t is in th ne is the bi es ic D es ce ph ng d a s b ass ish g s em oi an doe “Cl s d inin M d t, re d , ep es ity es lo al ke s b is c eri exp loc s e h do t t ew hue the ha n a n w his on y o t lD r In ae nda h ic ge M le

CLASSIC DINING

Ribs at Rendezvous by michael donahue

Rendezvous restaurant 23-year veteran Calvin Bell, who was voted Memphis Flyer’s “Best of Memphis” server for 2018 and ’19, with full orders of Rendezvous ribs.

W

hat’s more Memphis than Rendezvous barbecue ribs? They’ve only been around since the 1950s, but they’re one of the most recognizable eats of all Bluff City cuisine.

“We feed 400,000 people a year,” says John Vergos, a Rendezvous owner. “That’s local, out-of-towners, and anything in between.”

The Rendezvous, which his dad, the late Charlie Vergos, opened downtown 71 years ago, originally was a tavern, Vergos says, with an old coal chute that led into the basement.

“The ribs didn’t come until somewhat later. When he started, he was trying to do different things with that coal chute. He

used to smoke hams in there for ham-and- cheese sandwiches.

Then he started fiddling with all types of different things.”

Like ribs.

With the exception of a place he thinks was called “Johnny Mills,” Memphis restaurants sold barbecue sandwiches, but they didn’t sell ribs, Vergos says.

“They’d eat ribs on the Fourth of July or Memorial Day in their backyard.”

His dad introduced his ribs “sometime in the 1950s,” Ver-

gos says. But, he says, “The Rendezvous was not an overnight success by any stretch of the imagination. It just slowly, slowly, slowly got more popular. I suspect by the mid 1970s he was doing quite a bit of business. If he was being really successful, he certainly kept it from the rest of the family.”

Vergos admits Rendezvous ribs “are so different from anyone else’s. They’re not fall-offthe-bone ribs, but I think when you eat our ribs you taste the smoke, the meat, the crust, and the seasoning. They’re not overwhelmed with sauce.

“I think — and, again, I may be bragging,” he continues,

“we’re one of the unique food products in the country. Number one, no one ever cooks ribs like that. And number two, the flavor is just different from any kind of barbecue. My dad invented and created what people now call dry ribs.”

And that was just “hit or miss,” he says. Charlie Vergos originally was “just cooking them with salt, pepper, oregano, and garlic and basting it with a vinegar solution. And sometime in the 1950s, he went to New Orleans and really got into the chili powders, cayenne pepper, all those great Cajun seasonings.”

So, when his father finally got back to Memphis, he mixed the Greek seasoning and Cajun seasoning. “That’s the dry seasoning we use today,” says Vergos.

“And we’re still cooking them the exact same way.”

The Rendezvous is located downstairs in the alley behind 52 South Second in Downtown Memphis. The City of Memphis named the alley “Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous Alley.”

(901) 523-2746.

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the

M

MEMPHIS DINING guide A Curated Guide to Eating Out

emphis magazine offers this curated restaurant listing as a service to its readers. Broken down alphabetically by neighborhoods, this directory does not list every restaurant in town. It does, however, include the magazine’s “Top 50” choices of must-try restaurants in Memphis, a DINING SYMBOLS group that is updated every August. Establishments open B — breakfast less than a year are not eligible for “Top 50” but are noted as L — lunch “New.” This guide also includes a representative sampling D — dinner of other Bluff City eating establishments. No fast-food SB — Sunday brunch facilities or cafeterias are listed, nor have we included WB — weekend brunch establishments that rely heavily on take-out business.

X— wheelchair accessible Restaurants are included regardless of whether they adMRA — member, Memphis vertise in Memphis magazine; those that operate in multiRestaurant Association $ — under $15 per person without ple locations are listed under the neighborhood of their drinks or desserts original location. This guide is updated regularly, but we $$ — under $25 recommend that you call ahead to check on hours, prices, $$$ — $26-$50 and other details. Suggestions from readers are welcome; $$$$ — over $50 please contact us at dining@memphismagazine.com.

CENTER CITY 117 PRIME—Restaurateurs Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp teamed up with Chef Ryan Trimm to recreate the traditional American steakhouse. Serving oysters on the half shell and a variety of surf and turf options. 117 Union.

433-9851. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ ALDO’S PIZZA PIES—Serving gourmet pizzas — including Mr. T Rex — salads, and more. Also 30 beers, bottled or on tap. 100 S. Main. 577-7743; 752 S. Cooper. 725-7437. L, D, X, $-$$ THE ARCADE—Possibly Memphis’ oldest cafe.

Specialties include sweet potato pancakes, a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich, and breakfast served all day. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, MRA, $ AUTOMATIC SLIM’S—Longtime downtown favorite specializes in contemporary American cuisine emphasizing local ingredients; also extensive martini list. 83 S. Second. 525-7948.

L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARDOG TAVERN—Classic American grill with Italian influence, Bardog offers pasta specialties such as Grandma’s NJ Meatballs, as well as salads, sliders, sandwiches, and daily specials. 73 Monroe. 275-8752. B (Mon.-Fri.), L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEDROCK EATS & SWEETS—Memphis’ only Paleocentric restaurant offering such dishes as pot roast, waffles, enchiladas, chicken salad, omelets, and more. Closed for dinner Sun. 327 S. Main. 409-6433. B, L, D, X, $-$$ BELLE TAVERN—Serving elevated bar food, including a butcher board with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as daily specials. 117 Barboro Alley. 249-6580. L (Sun.), D, MRA, $ BLEU—This eclectic restaurant features American food with global influences and local ingredients. Among the specialties are a 14-oz. bone-in rib-eye and several seafood dishes. 221 S. Third, in the Westin Memphis Beale St. Hotel. 334-5950. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE— Serves Japanese fusion cuisine featuring seafood and steak, with seasonally changing menu; also, a sushi bar and flatbread pizza. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L, D, X, $-$$ BRASS DOOR IRISH PUB—Irish and New-American cuisine includes such entrees as fish and chips, burgers, shepherd’s pie, all-day Irish breakfast, and more. 152 Madison.

572-1813. L, D, SB, $-$$ CAFE KEOUGH—European-style cafe serving quiche, paninis, salads, and more. 12 S. Main. 509-2469. B, L, D, X, $ CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Offers prime steaks, fresh seafood (lobster tails, grouper, mahi mahi), pasta, and several northern Italian specialties. 149 Union, The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, SB, X X,, MRA, $-$$$$

CAROLINA WATERSHED—This indoor/outdoor eatery, set around silos, features reimagined down-home classics, including fried green tomatoes with smoked catfish, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, burgers, and more. Closed Mon.-Thurs. 141 E. Carolina. 321-5553. L, D, WB, $-$$ CATHERINE & MARY’S—A variety of pastas, grilled quail, pâté, razor clams, and monkfish are among the dishes served at this Italian restaurant in the Chisca. 272 S. Main. 254-8600. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ CHEZ PHILIPPE—Classical/contemporary French cuisine presented in a luxurious atmosphere with a seasonal menu focused on local/regional cuisine. The crown jewel of The Peabody for 35 years. Afternoon tea served Wed.-Sat., 1-3:30 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sun.Tues. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, X, MRA, $$$$ COZY CORNER—Serving up ribs, pork sandwiches, chicken, spaghetti, and more; also homemade banana pudding. Closed Sun.-Mon. 745 N. Parkway and Manassas. 527-9158. L, D, $ DIRTY CROW INN—Serving elevated bar food, including poutine fries, fried catfish, and the Chicken Debris, a sandwich with smoked chicken, melted cheddar, and gravy. 855 Kentucky. 207-5111. L, D, MRA, $ EVELYN & OLIVE—Jamaican/Southern fusion cuisine includes such dishes as Kingston stew fish, Rasta Pasta, and jerk rib-eye. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun.-Mon. 630 Madison. 748-5422. L, D, X, $ FAM—Casual Asian restaurant serves sushi rice bowls, noodle bowls, sushi rolls, and spring rolls.

Closed Sun. 149 Madison. 701-6666. L, D, X, $ FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Southern cuisine with low-country, Creole, and Delta influences, using regional fresh seafood, local beef, and locally grown foods. Entrees include shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. and Mon. A downtown staple at Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Suite L1.

523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FERRARO’S PIZZERIA & PUB—Rigatoni and tortellini are among the pasta entrees here, along with pizzas (whole or by the slice) with a variety of toppings. 111 Jackson.

522-2033. L, D, X, $ FLIGHT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR— Serves steaks and seafood, along with such specialties as bison ribeye and Muscovy duck, all matched with appropriate wines. 39 S. Main. 521-8005. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab, oysters, fish tacos, and catfish; also chicken and burgers. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, X, $-$$ THE GRAY CANARY—The sixth restaurant from chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, offering small plates and entrees cooked on an open flame. Oysters, octopus, and hearty steaks are among the menu options at this eatery in Old

Dominick Distillery. Closed Mon. 301 S. Front. 466-6324. D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$.

GRECIAN GOURMET TAVERNA—Serves traditional favorites like spanakopita, pastitso, moussaka, and hand-rolled dolmathes, as well as lamb sliders and pita nachos. Closed Mon. 412 S. Main. 249-6626. L, D, X, $ GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies.

310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 S. Center St. (Collierville). 853-6005; 2965 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 373-9111; 730 S. Mendenhall. 767-2323; 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-2942028. L, D, X, MRA, $ HAPPY MEXICAN—Serves quesadillas, burritos, chimichangas, vegetable and seafood dishes, and more. 385 S. Second. 529-9991; 6080 Primacy Pkwy. 683-0000; 7935 Winchester. 751-5353. L, D, X, $ HU. DINER—An extension of Hu. Hotel, diner serves such dishes as country fried cauliflower, cornflake fried chicken, and octopus and grits. 3. S. Main.

333-1224. L, D, X, $-$$ HUEY’S—This family friendly restaurant offers 13 different burgers, a variety of sandwiches and delicious soups and salads. 1927 Madison. 726-4372; 1771 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-3885; 77 S. Second. 5272700; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-4455; 7090 Malco Blvd.

(Southaven). 662-349-7097; 7825 Winchester. 624-8911; 4872 Poplar. 682-7729; 7677 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 3183030; 8570 Highway 51 N. (Millington). 873-5025. L, D, X, MRA, $ HU. ROOF—Rooftop cocktail bar with superb city views serves toasts with a variety of toppings including beef tartare with cured egg, cognac, and capers or riced cauliflower with yellow curry, currants, and almonds. Also salads, fish tacos, and boiled peanut hummus. 79 Madison.

333-1229. D, $ ITTA BENA—Southern and Cajun-American cuisine served here; specialties are duck and waffles and shrimp and grits, along with steaks, chops, seafood, and pasta. 145 Beale St. 578-3031. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ KOOKY CANUCK—Offers prime rib, catfish, and burgers, including the 4-lb. “Kookamonga”; also late-night menu. 87 S. Second. 578-9800; 1250 N. Germantown Pkwy. 1-800-2453 L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ KREWE OF DEJAVU—Serves Creole, soul, and vegetarian cuisine, including po-boys, jambalaya, and shrimp and grits. Closed Sun. 936 Florida. 947-1003. L, D, X, $-$$ THE LITTLE TEA SHOP—Downtown institution serves up Southern comfort cooking, including meatloaf and such veggies as turnip greens, yams, okra, and tomatoes. Closed Sat.-Sun. 69 Monroe. 525-6000, L, X, $ LOCAL—Entrees with a focus on locally sourced products include lobster mac-and-cheese and ribeye patty melt; menu differs by location. 95 S. Main. 473-9573; 2126 Madison. 7251845. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ LOFLIN YARD—Beer garden and restaurant serves vegetarian fare and smoked-meat dishes, including beef brisket and pork tenderloin, cooked on a custom-made grill. Closed Mon.-Tues. 7 W. Carolina. 249-3046. L (Sat. and Sun.), D, MRA, $-$$ THE LOOKOUT AT THE PYRAMID—Serves seafood and Southern fare, including cornmeal-fried oysters, sweet tea brined chicken, and elk chops. 1 Bass Pro Dr. 620-4600/2918200. L, D, X $-$$$ LUNA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE—Serving a limited menu of breakfast and lunch items. Dinner entrees include Citrus Glaze Salmon and Cajun Stuffed Chicken. 179 Madison (Hotel Napoleon). 526-0002. B, D (Mon.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ MACIEL’S—Entrees include tortas, fried taco plates, quesadillas, chorizo and pastor soft tacos, salads, and more. Downtown closed Sun. Bodega closed Wed. 45 S. Main. 526-0037; 525 S. Highland. 504-4584. L, D, SB (Highland), X, MRA, $ THE MAJESTIC GRILLE—Housed in a former silent-picture house, features aged steaks, fresh seafood, and such specialties as roasted chicken and grilled pork tenderloin; offers a pre-theatre menu and classic

We celebrate our city’s community table and the people who grow, cook, and eat the best Memphis food at M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M / F O O D - D I N I N G (This guide, compiled by our editors, includes editorial picks and advertisers.)

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cocktails. Well-stocked bar. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ McEWEN’S ON MONROE—Southern/ American cuisine with international flavors; specialties include steak and seafood, sweet potato-crusted catfish with macaroni and cheese, and more. Closed Sun., Monroe location. 120 Monroe. 527-7085; 1110 Van Buren (Oxford). 662-234-7003. L, D, SB (Oxford only), X, MRA, $$-$$$ MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including prime fillet, rib eyes, and prime-aged New York strip; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven).

662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337; 3165 Forest Hill-Irene (Germantown). 249-5661. D, SB (Germantown), X, $$-$$$ MOLLIE FONTAINE LOUNGE—Specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. Closed Sun.-Tues. 679 Adams Ave. 524-1886. D, X, MRA, $ THE NINE THAI & SUSHI—Serving authentic Thai dishes, including curries, as well as a variety of sushi rolls. Closed for lunch Sat. and Sun. 121 Union.

208-8347. L, D, X, $-$$ PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flair, including such entrees as filet Paulette with butter cream sauce and crabmeat and spinach crepes; also changing daily specials and great views.

River Inn. 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3300. B, L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Downtown eatery serving seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp, as well as beef, chicken, and pasta dishes. 299 S. Main.

522-9070; 8106 Cordova Center Dr. (Cordova). 425-4797. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ PONTOTOC LOUNGE—Upscale restaurant and jazz bar serves such starters as alligator filet fritters; entrees include Mississippi pot roast with jalapeno cornbread and tagliatelle with braised beef. 314 S. Main. 207-7576. D, X, $-$$ REGINA’S—New Orleans-inspired eatery offering po boys, Cajun nachos topped with crawfish tails, catfish platters, oysters, and more. Closed Mon. 60 N. Main. 730-0384. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ RENDEZVOUS, CHARLES VERGOS’— Menu items include barbecued ribs, cheese plates, skillet shrimp, red beans and rice, and Greek salads.

Closed Sun.-Mon. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, X, $-$$ RIZZO’S DINER—Chorizo meatloaf, lobster pronto puff, and lamb belly tacos are menu items at this upscale diner. Michael Patrick among the city’s best chefs. 492 S. Main. 304-6985. L (Fri.-Sat.), D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ SABOR CARIBE—Serving up “Caribbean flavors” with dishes from Colombia, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, and Cuba. Closed Sunday. 662 Madison. 949-8100. L, D, X, $ SAGE—Restaurant and lounge features daily lunch specials and tapas with such dishes as braised short ribs, teriyaki pulled pork, and the Sage burger made with Angus beef, avocado mash, fried egg, and flash-fried sage. 94 S. Main. 672-7902. L, D, X, $ SLEEP OUT LOUIES—Oyster bar with such specialties as char-grilled Roquefort oysters and gulf oysters on the half shell with Prosecco mignonette; also serves flatbread pizzas and a variety of sandwiches. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 111. 707-7180. L, D, X, $ SOUTH MAIN MARKET—Food Hall featuring a variety of vendors serving everything from bagels and beer to comfort food and healthy cuisine. 409 S. Main. 341-3838. $-$$ SOUTH MAIN SUSHI & GRILL—Serving sushi, nigiri, and more. 520 S. Main. 249-2194. L, D, X, $ SPINDINI—Italian fusion cuisine with such entrees as wood-fired pizzas, gorgonzola stuffed filet, and fresh seafood; large domestic whiskey selection. 383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, X, $$-$$$ SUNRISE MEMPHIS—From owners of Sweet Grass and Central BBQ. Serves breakfast all day, including house-made biscuits, frittatas, kielbasa or boudin plates, and breakfast platters. 670 Jefferson. 552-3144. B, L, X, MRA, $ TART—Combination patisserie and coffeehouse serving rustic French specialties, including baked eggs in brioche, topped with Gruyere, and French breads and pastries. One Commerce Square, 40 S. Main #150. 421-6276. B, L, WB, X, $-$$ TERRACE—Creative American and Continental cuisine includes such dishes as filet mignon, beef or lamb sliders,

chicken satay, and mushroom pizzetta. Rooftop, River Inn of Harbor Town, 50 Harbor Town Square. 260-3366. D, X, MRA, $$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes, and Brazilian sausage; also a salad bar with extensive toppings. 150 Peabody Place, Suite 103. 526-7600. L (Wed.-Fri.), D, SB, X, $$-$$$ UNCLE BUCK’S FISHBOWL & GRILL—Burgers, pizza, fish dishes, sandwiches, and more served in a unique “underwater” setting. Bass Pro, Bass Pro Drive, 291-8200. B, L, D, X, $-$$ THE VAULT—Oysters, shrimp beignets, flatbreads, stuffed cornish hen, and Smash Burger featured on “Late Nite Eats” are among the dishes offered at this Creole/Italian fusion eatery. 124 G.E. Patterson. 591-8000. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ WESTY’S—Extensive menu includes a variety of wild rice dishes, sandwiches, plate lunches, and hot fudge pie. 346 N. Main. 543-3278.L, D, X, $

COLLIERVILLE CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas (including create-your-own), panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sun. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999.

L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BABY—Specializing in Neapolitan-style pizza made in a wood-fired oven. Also serves house-made mozzarella, pasta, appetizers, and salads. 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1. 457-7457.

L, D, X, $ COLLIERVILLE COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches. 3573 S. Houston Levee Rd. 979-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ DAVID GRISANTI’S—Serving Northern Italian cuisine and traditional family recipes, like the Elfo Special, shrimp sauteed in garlic and butter, tossed with white button mushrooms and white pepper, and served over vermicelli with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Closed Sun. 684 W. Poplar (Sheffield Antiques Mall). 861-1777. L, D (Thurs.-Sat.), X, $-$$$ EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak.

9947 Wolf River, 853-7922; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N.Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union.

274-4264; 11615 Airline Rd. (Arlington). 867-1883; 9045 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 383-4219; 7164 Hacks Cross Rd. (Olive Branch).

662-890-3337; 8834 Hwy. 51 N. (Millington). 872-3220; 7424 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 417-6026. L, D, X, $ EMERALD THAI RESTAURANT—Spicy shrimp, pad khing, lemongrass chicken, and several noodle, rice, and vegetarian dishes are offered at this family restaurant. Closed Sunday. 8950 Highway 64 (Lakeland, TN). 384-0540. L, D X, $-$$ FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, slow-roasted prime rib, and wood-grilled salmon and other seafood, as well as seasonal entrees. 4600 Merchants Circle, Carriage Crossing.

850-1637; 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300. L, D, X, $-$$$ JIM’S PLACE GRILLE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrees as pork tenderloin, several seafood specialties, and hand-cut charcoal-grilled steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 3660 Houston Levee. 861-5000. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ MULAN ASIAN BISTRO—Hunan Chicken, tofu dishes, and orange beef served here; sushi and Thai food, too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288; 2149 Young. 347-3965; 4698 Spottswood. 609-8680. L, D, X, $-$$ OSAKA JAPANESE CUISINE—Featuring an extensive sushi menu as well as traditional Japanese and hibachi dining.

Hours vary for lunch; call. 3670 Houston Levee. 861-4309; 3402 Poplar. 249-4690; 7164 Hacks Cross (Olive Branch). 662-8909312; 2200 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 425-4901. L, D, X, $-$$$ P.O. PRESS PUBLIC HOUSE AND PROVISIONS—Featuring house-aged meats and locally sourced produce, the menu changes with availability, with such items as seasonal fish, local beef, and fresh vegetable dishes. 148 N. Main. 457-7655. D (except Sunday), SB, X, $-$$ RAVEN & LILY—Eatery offers innovative Southerninspired cuisine with such dishes as crispy shrimp and cauliflower salad, spiced lamb sausage and parmesan risotto, and

bananas foster pain perdu. Closed Monday. 120 E. Mulberry.

286-4575. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ SEAR SHACK BURGERS & FRIES—Serving Angus burgers, fries, and hand-spun milkshakes.

Closed Mon. 875 W. Poplar, Suite 6. 861-4100; 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 103. 567-4909 ; 7424 Stage Road, Suite 121 (Bartlett). 382-3083; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-4084932; 427 E. Commerce (Hernando). 662-469-4114. L, D, X, $ STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a fillet and lobster combination, also sushi. A specialty is Dynamite Chicken with fried rice. 4680 Merchants Park Circle, Avenue Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. L, D, X, $-$$ ZOPITA’S ON THE SQUARE—Cafe offers sandwiches, including smoked salmon and pork tenderloin, as well as salads and desserts. Closed Sun. 114 N. Main. 457-7526. L, D, X, $

CORDOVA BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Pkwy. 755-4114. L, D, X, $-$$ THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. fillets to a 20-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Fri. and Sun.), D, X, $$-$$$ FOX RIDGE PIZZA—Pizzas, calzones, sub sandwiches, burgers, and meat-and-two plate lunches are among the dishes served at this eatery, which opened in 1979. 1769 N. Germantown Pkwy. 758-6500. L, D, X, $ GREEN BAMBOO—Pineapple tilapia, pork vermicelli, and the soft egg noodle combo are Vietnamese specialties here. 990 N. Germantown Parkway, #104. 753-5488. L, D, $-$$ KING JERRY LAWLER’S MEMPHIS BBQ COMPANY—Offers a variety of barbecue dishes, including brisket, ribs, nachos topped with smoked pork, and a selection of barbecue “Slamwiches.” 465 N. Germantown Pkwy., #116.

509-2360. L, D, X, $ JIM ’N NICK’S BAR-B-Q—Serves barbecued pork, ribs, chicken, brisket, and fish, along with other homemade Southern specialties. 2359 N. Germantown Pkwy. 388-0998.

L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves a variety of Pan-Asian cuisine, including Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean, and Thai.

Noodle and rice bowls are specialties; a small plates menu also offered. 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, X, $-$$ PRESENTATION ROOM, THE—American bistro run by the students of L’Ecole Culinaire. Menu changes regularly; specialties may include such items as a filet with truffle mushroom ragu. Service times vary; call for details. Closed Fri.-Sun. 1245 N. Germantown Pkwy. 754-7115. L, D, X, $-$$ SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrees include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrees. 2324 N. Germantown Pkwy. 384-4122. L, D, X, $-$$ TANNOOR GRILL—Brazilian-style steakhouse with skewers served tableside, along with Middle Eastern specialties; vegetarian options also available. 830 N. Germantown Pkwy.

443-5222. L, D, X, $-$$$

EAST MEMPHIS

(INCLUDES POPLAR/ I-240) ACRE—Features seasonal modern American cuisine in an avante-garde setting using locally sourced products; also small-plates and enclosed garden patio. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 690 S. Perkins.

818-2273. L, D, X, $$-$$$ AGAVOS COCINA & TEQUILA—Camaron de Tequila, tamales, kabobs, and burgers made with a blend of beef and chorizo are among the offerings at this tequila-centric restaurant and bar. 2924 Walnut Grove. 433-9345. L, D, X, $-$$ AMERIGO—Traditional and contemporary Italian cuisine includes pasta, wood-fired pizza, steaks, and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000.

L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$

ANDREW MICHAEL ITALIAN KITCHEN— Traditional Italian cuisine with a menu from two of the city’s top chefs that changes seasonally with such entrees as Maw Maw’s ravioli. Closed Sun.-Mon. 712 W. Brookhaven Cl. 347-3569. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ ANOTHER BROKEN EGG CAFE—Offering several varieties of eggs benedict, waffles, omelets, pancakes, beignets, and other breakfast fare; also burgers, sandwiches, and salads. 6063 Park Ave. 729-7020; 65 S. Highland. 623-7122.

B, L, WB, X, $ BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai fusion cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, chef-specialty sushi rolls, coconut soup, and duck and seafood entrees. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. at Brookhaven location; call for hours. 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. 590-2585; 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville).

854-8748. L, D, X, $-$$ BENIHANA—This Japanese steakhouse serves beef, chicken, and seafood grilled at the table; some menu items change monthly; sushi bar also featured. 912 Ridge Lake. 767-8980. L, D, X, $$-$$$ BLUE PLATE CAFÉ—For breakfast, the café’s serves old-fashioned buttermilk pancakes (it’s a secret recipe!), country ham and eggs, and waffles with fresh strawberries and cream. For lunch, the café specializes in country cooking. 5469 Poplar. 761-9696; 113 S. Court. 523-2050. B, L, X, $ BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Specializing in such homemade entrees as spinach lasagna and lobster ravioli; a seafood specialty is horseradish-crusted salmon. Closed Sun. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, X, $-$$$ BRYANT’S BREAKFAST—Three-egg omelets, pancakes, and The Sampler Platter are among the popular entrees here.

Possibly the best biscuits in town. Closed Mon. and Tues. 3965 Summer. 324-7494. B, L, X, $ BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks, seafood, and pasta. (Lunchbox serves entree salads, burgers, and more.) 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 919 S. Yates (Buckley’s Lunchbox), 682-0570. L (Yates only, M-F), D, X, $-$$ BUNTYN CORNER CAFE—Serving favorites from Buntyn Restaurant, including chicken and dressing, cobbler, and yeast rolls. 5050 Poplar, Suite 107. 424-3286. B, L, X, $ CAPITAL GRILLE—Known for its dry-aged, hand-carved steaks; among the specialties are bone-in sirloin, and porcini-rubbed Delmonico; also seafood entrees and seasonal lunch plates. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. Crescent Center, 6065 Poplar.

683-9291. L, D, X, $$$-$$$$ CASABLANCA—Lamb shawarma is one of the fresh, homemade specialties served at this Mediterranean/Moroccan restaurant; fish entrees and vegetarian options also available.

5030 Poplar. 725-8557 ; 7609 Poplar Pike (Germantown). 4255908; 1707 Madison. 421-6949. L, D, X, $-$$ CIAO BELLA—Among the Italian and Greek specialties are lasagna, seafood pasta, gourmet pizzas, and vegetarian options. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 565 Erin Dr., Erin Way Shopping Center. 205-2500. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$$ CITY SILO TABLE + PANTRY—With a focus on clean eating, this establishment offers fresh juices, as well as comfort foods re-imagined with wholesome ingredients. 5101 Sanderlin. 729-7687. B, L, D, X, $ CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrees. Wed. lunch buffets, Cordova and Collierville. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999; 6434 Goodman Rd., Olive Branch.

662-893-3663. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ ERLING JENSEN—For over 20 years, has presented “globally inspired” cuisine to die for. Specialties are rack of lamb, big game entrees, and fresh fish dishes. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves wetaged and dry-aged steaks, prime beef, chops, and seafood, including salmon, Australian lobster tails, and a catch of the day. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. Now celebrating their 40th year. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, X, MRA, $$$-$$$$ FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin cuisine, including broccoli beef, hot-and-sour soup, and spring rolls. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, X, $-$$ A P R I L 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 121

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FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, soups, and desserts, all with an Italian/Mediterranean flair. Closed Sunday. 750 Cherry Rd., Memphis Botanic Garden. 766-9900.

L, X, $ FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, fillet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 S. Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with Southern and global influences; entrees include crab cakes, and shrimp and grits, also dinner specials. Founder Jeff Dunham’s son Chip is now chef de cuisine. 4550 Poplar. 818-9951. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$-$$$ HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as King crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, sandwiches, a ”voodoo menu”; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves variety of pizzas, subs, salads, and sides. Closed Monday. A neighborhood fixture. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. L, D, X, $-$$ HOG & HOMINY—The casual sister to Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen serves brick-oven-baked pizzas, including the Red-Eye with pork belly, and small plates with everything from meatballs to beef and cheddar hot dogs; and local veggies. Closed for lunch Mon. 707 W. Brookhaven Cl. 207-7396. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ HOUSTON’S—Serves steaks, seafood, pork chops, chicken dishes, sandwiches, salads, and Chicago-style spinach dip.

Farmous for first-class service. 5000 Poplar. 683-0915. L, D, X $-$$$ INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine with emphasis on local foods and fresh fish; daily chef specials. Closed for lunch Sat. 5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105.

818-0821. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ LA BAGUETTE—An almond croissant and chicken salad are among specialties at this French-style bistro. Closed for dinner Sun. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B, L, D (closes at 7), X, MRA, $ LAS DELICIAS—Popular for its guacamole, house-made tortilla chips, and margaritas, this restaurant draws diners with its chicken enchiladas, meat-stuffed flautas, and Cuban torta with spicy pork. Closed Sunday. 4002 Park Ave. 458-9264; 5689 Quince. 800-2873. L, D, X, $ LIBRO AT LAURELWOOD—Bookstore eatery features a variety of sandwiches, salads, and homemade pasta dishes, with Italian-inspired options such as carbonara and potato gnocchi. Closed for dinner Sun. 387 Perkins Ext. (Novel). 8002656. B, L, D, SB, X, $-$$ LISA’S LUNCHBOX—Serving bagels, sandwiches, salads, and wraps. 5885 Ridgeway Center Pkwy., Suite 101. 767-6465; 2659 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Suite 1200; 166 S. Front. 729-7277. B, L, $ LOST PIZZA—Offering pizzas (with dough made from scratch), pasta, salads, sandwiches, tamales, and more. 2855 Poplar. 572-1803; 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-892-8684. L, D, X, $-$$ LYNCHBURG LEGENDS—This restaurant with a Jack Daniels’ theme and Southern cuisine serves such entrees as Bourbon Street salmon, buttermilk-fried chicken, and grilled steak and wild mushroom salad. DoubleTree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 969-7777. B, L, D, X, $- $$$ MAHOGANY MEMPHIS—Upscale Southern restaurant offers such dishes as coffee-rubbed lamb chops and baked Cajun Cornish hen. Closed for dinner Sun. and all day Mon.-Tues. 3092 Poplar, Suite 11. 623-7977. L, D, SB, X, $-$$$ MARCIANO MEDITERRANEAN AND ITALIAN CUISINE—Veal Saltimbocca with angel hair pasta and white wine sauce is among the entrees; also steaks, seafood, and gourmet pizza. Closed Sun. 780 Brookhaven Cl. 682-1660. D, X, $-$$ DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, burgers, and other Irish and American fare; also lunch and dinner specials. 4694 Spottswood. 761-3711; 3964 Goodman Rd. 662-890-7611. L, D, X, $ MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, masala dosa, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrees;

also a daily lunch buffet, and dinner buffet on Fri.-Sat. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, X, $-$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM—Large menu includes assortment of pizzas, salads, calzones, hoagies, vegetarian options, and 50 beers on tap. 5138 Park Ave. 562-12119155 Poplar; Shops of Forest Hill (Germantown). 907-0243. L, D, X, $-$$ MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, Thai calamari, rainbow panang curry with grouper fish, and other Pan Asian/fusion entrees. Closed Mon. 850 S. White Station Rd. 683-8889. L, D, X, MRA, $ NAM KING—Offers luncheon and dinner buffets, dim sum, and such specialties as fried dumplings, pepper steak, and orange chicken. 4594 Yale. 373-4411. L, D, X, $ NAPA CAFE—Among the specialties is miso-marinated salmon over black rice with garlic spinach and shiitake mushrooms. Closed Sun. 5101 Sanderlin, Suite 122. 683-0441. L, D, X, MRA, $$-$$$ NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrees; also lunch/dinner buffets. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, X, $ ONE & ONLY BBQ—On the menu are pork barbecue sandwiches, platters, wet and dry ribs, smoked chicken and turkey platters, a smoked meat salad, barbecue quesadillas, Brunswick Stew, and Millie’s homemade desserts. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 751-3615; 567 Perkins Extd. 249-4227. L, D, X, $ ONO POKÉ—This eatery specializes in poké — a Hawaiian dish of fresh fish salad served over rice. Menu includes a variety of poké bowls, like the Kimchi Tuna bowl, or customers can build their own by choosing a base, protein, veggies, and toppings. 3145 Poplar. 618-2955. L, D, X, $ OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya, shrimp and grits, and crawfish etouffee are specialties. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ PARK + CHERRY—Partnering with CFY Catering, the Dixon offers casual dining within the museum. Menu features sandwiches, like truffled pimento cheese, as well as salads, snacks, and sweets. Closed for breakfast Sun. and all day Mon. 4339 Park (Dixon Gallery). 761-5250. L, X, $ PATRICK’S—Serves barbecue nachos, burgers, and entrees such as fish and chips; also plate lunches and daily specials. 4972 Park. 682-2852. L, D, X, MRA, $ PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for 60-plus years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes, including homemade ravioli, lasagna, and chicken marsala. 3886 Park.

458-0694. D, X, $-$$$ PF CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are orange peel shrimp, Mongolian beef, and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. 1181 Ridgeway Rd., Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, X, $-$$ PHO SAIGON—Vietnamese fare includes beef teriyaki, roasted quail, curry ginger chicken, vegetarian options, and a variety of soups. 2946 Poplar. 458-1644. L, D, $ PYRO’S FIRE-FRESH PIZZA—Serving gourmet pizzas cooked in an open-fire oven; wide choice of toppings; large local and craft beer selection. 1199 Ridgeway. 379-8294; 2035 Union Ave. 208-8857; 2286 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 207-1198; 3592 S. Houston Levee (Collierville). 221-8109. L, D, X, MRA, $ RIVER OAKS—Chef Jose Gutierrez’s French-style bistro serves seafood and steaks, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. 5871 Poplar Ave. 683-9305. L, D, X, $$$ RONNIE GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT— This Memphis institution serves some family classics such as Elfo’s Special and handmade ravioli, along with house-made pizza and fresh oysters. Closed Sun. 6150 Poplar, #122. 850-0191. D, X, $-$$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, X, $$$-$$$$ SALSA—Mexican-Southern California specialties include carnitas, enchiladas verde, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as snapper verde. Closed Sun. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar, Suite 129. 683-6325. L, D, X, $-$$ SEASONS 52—This elegant fresh grill and wine bar offers a seasonally changing menu using fresh ingredients, wood-fire grilling, and brick-oven cooking; also a large international wine list and nightly piano bar. Crescent Center, 6085 Poplar. 682-9952.

L, D, X, $$-$$$ STAKS—Offering pancakes, including birthday cake and lemon ricotta. Menu includes other breakfast items such as beignets and

New Space C E L E B R AT I N G

1 0 0

Y E A R S

I N

D OW N TOW N

M E M P H I S

...Coming this Summer

100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY EVENT AUGUST 24, 2019

Brand new liquor bar, coffee bar, waiting area, and additional seating.

Breakfast All Day. Daily Specials available every day.

Happy Hour: 4-7pm Thur.-Sat. Evening Hours: 7-10pm, Thur.-Sat.

French toast, as well as soups and sandwiches for lunch. 4615 Poplar. 509-2367; 7704 Poplar (Germantown). 800-1951. B, L, WB, X, $ STRANO BY CHEF JOSH—Presenting a Sicilian/ Mediterranean mix of Arab, Spanish, Greek, and North African fare, Strano serves hand-tossed pizzas, wood-grilled fish, and such entrees as Chicken Under the Earth, cooked under a Himalayan salt block over a seasoned white oak wood-fired grill. 518 Perkins Extd. 275-8986. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ SUSHI JIMMI—This food truck turned restaurant serves a variety of sushi rolls, fusion dishes — such as kimchi fries — and sushi burritos. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Mon. 2895 Poplar. 729-6985. L, D, X, $ THREE LITTLE PIGS—Pork-shoulder-style barbecue with tangy mild or hot sauce, freshly made coleslaw, and baked beans. 5145 Quince Rd. 685-7094. B, L, D, X, $ TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializes in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves ribs, beef brisket, and burgers. 1286 Union. 725-7527. 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 3970 Rhodes.

323-9865; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. For more locations, go online.

L, D, X, $ VENICE KITCHEN—Specializes in “eclectic Italian” and Southern Creole, from pastas, including the “Godfather,” to hand-tossed pizzas, including the “John Wayne”; choose from 50 toppings. 368 Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, SB, X, $-$$ WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Cantonese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrees, including the golden-sesame chicken; next door is East Tapas, serving small plates with an Asian twist. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall.

763-0676. L, D, X, $-$$ WASABI—Serving traditional Japanese offerings, hibachi, sashimi, and sushi. The Sweet Heart roll, wrapped — in the shape of a heart — with tuna and filled with spicy salmon, yellowtail, and avocado, is a specialty. 5101 Sanderlin Rd., Suite 105. 421-6399. L, D, X, $-$$ WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; meal includes drink and dessert. Closed Sat.-Sun. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, X, $ ZAKA BOWL—This vegan-friendly restaurant serves buildyour-own vegetable bowls featuring ingredients such as agave Brussels sprouts and roasted beets. Also serves tuna poke and herbed chicken bowls. 575 Erin. 509-3105. L, D, $

GERMANTOWN BLUE HONEY BISTRO—Entrees at this upscale eatery include brown butter scallops served with Mississippi blue rice and herb-crusted beef tenderloin with vegetables and truffle butter. Closed Sun. 9155 Poplar, Suite 17. 552-3041. D, X, $-$$$ FARM & FRIES—A burger-centric menu features 100 percent grass fed and finished beef served in creative combinations like roasted portobellos and Swiss cheese. Try the Brussels with cheddar, bacon and quick-fried sprout leaves or fries, house-cut with dipping sauces. Closed Sun. 7724 Poplar Pike. 791-2328. L, D, X, $ FOREST HILL GRILL—A variety of standard pub fare and a selection of mac ‘n’ cheese dishes are featured on the menu.

Specialties include Chicken Newport and a barbecue salmon BLT. 9102 Poplar Pike. 624-6001. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Serves barbecue sandwiches, sliders, ribs, shrimp, and nachos, as well as smoked barbecued bologna sandwiches; Mon.-night all-youcan-eat ribs. 2290 S. Germantown Rd. S. 754-5540. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ LAS TORTUGAS DELI MEXICANA— Authentic Mexican food prepared from local food sources; specializes in tortugas — grilled bread scooped out to hold such powerfully popular fillings as brisket, pork, and shrimp; also tingas, tostados. Closed Sunday. 1215 S. Germantown Rd. 751-1200; 6300 Poplar. 623-3882. L, D, X, $-$$ MISTER B’S—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Sat. and all day Sun. and Mon. 6655 Poplar, #107. 751-5262. L, D, X, $-$$$ NOODLES ASIAN BISTRO—Serves a variety of traditional Asian cuisine, with emphasis on noodle dishes, such as Singapore Street Noodles and Hong Kong Chow Fun. 7850 Poplar, #12. 755-1117. L, D, X, $

PETRA CAFÉ—Serves Greek, Italian, and Middle Eastern sandwiches, gyros, and entrees. Hours vary; call. 6641 Poplar.

754-4440; 547 S. Highland. 323-3050. L, D, X, $-$$ RED KOI—Classic Japanese cuisine offered at this family-run restaurant; hibachi steaks, sushi, seafood, chicken, and vegetables. 5847 Poplar. 767-3456. L, D, X $-$$ ROCK’N DOUGH PIZZA CO.—Specialty and custom pizzas made from fresh ingredients; wide variety of toppings.

7850 Poplar, #6. 779-2008. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $$ ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Royal Panda chicken and shrimp, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. 756-9697. L, D, X, $-$$ RUSSO’S NEW YORK PIZZERIA AND WINE BAR—Serves gourmet pizzas, calzones, and pasta, including lasagna, fettuccine Alfredo, scampi, and more. 9087 Poplar, Suite 111. 755-0092. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties here. 2060 West St. 758-8181; 4840 Poplar. 572-1002.

L, D, X, $-$$ SOUTHERN SOCIAL—Shrimp and grits, stuffed quail, and Aunt Thelma’s Fried Chicken are among the dishes served at this upscale Southern establishment. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 754-5555. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ WEST STREET DINER—This home-style eatery offers breakfast, burgers, po’boys, and more. 2076 West St. 757-2191.

B, L, D (Mon.-Fri.), X, $ WOLF RIVER BRISKET CO.—From the owners of Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, highlights include house-smoked meats: prime beef brisket, chicken, and salmon. Closed Sun. 9947 Wolf River Boulevard, Suite 101. 316-5590. L, D, X, $-$

MIDTOWN (INCLUDES THE MEDICAL CENTER) ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian/Mediterranean menu includes beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrees, and vegetarian dishes; also a lunch buffet. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, X, $-$$ ALCHEMY—Southern fusion, locally grown cuisine features small and large plates; among the offerings are pan-seared hanger steak, quail, and lamb chops; also handcrafted cocktails and local craft beers. 940 S. Cooper. 726-4444. D, SB, X, $-$$ ART BAR—Inventive cocktails feature locally foraged ingredients; snacks include house-cured salt & vinegar potato chips and herb-roasted olives. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. D, X, $ ATOMIC TIKI—Island-inspired dishes such as barbecue nachos with pineapple mango relish, Polynesian meatballs, and shrimp roll sliders are served in a tiki bar atmosphere.

Closed Mon. 1545 Overton Park. 279-3935. D, $ BABALU TACOS & TAPAS—This Overton Square eatery dishes up Spanish-style tapas with Southern flair; also taco and enchilada of the day; specials change daily. 2115 Madison.

274-0100; 6450 Poplar, 410-8909. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ BAR DKDC—Features an ever-changing menu of international “street food,” from Thai to Mexican, Israeli to Indian, along with specialty cocktails. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, X, MRA, $ BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, spaghetti, bologna; also pulled pork shoulder, Texas toast barbecue sandwich, chicken sandwich, and salads. Closed Sun. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BARI RISTORANTE ENOTECA—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine (Puglia) emphasizes lighter entrees.

Serves fresh fish and beef dishes and a homemade soup of the day. 22 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BARKSDALE RESTAURANT—Old-school diner serving breakfast and Southern plate lunches. 237 Cooper. 722-2193. B, L, D, X, $ BAYOU BAR & GRILL—New Orleans fare at this Overton Square eatery includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish Acadian, shrimp dishes, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2094 Madison. 278-8626. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ BEAUTY SHOP—Modern American cuisine with international flair served in a former beauty shop.

Serves steaks salads, pasta, and seafood, including pecan-crusted golden sea bass. Perennial “Best Brunch” winner. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BELLY ACRES—At this festive Overton Square eatery, milkshakes, floats, and burgers rule. Burgers are updated with

contemporary toppings like grilled leeks, braised tomatoes, and sourdough or brioche buns. 2102 Trimble Pl. 529-7017. L, D, X, $ BHAN THAI—Authentic Thai cuisine includes curries, pad Thai noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. and all day Mon. 1324 Peabody. 272-1538. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN—Kabobs, flavorful chicken and lamb stew, and injera (flatbread) are traditional items on the menu, along with vegetarian options. 1788 Madison. 474-7214.

L, D, X, $-$$ BOSCOS—Tennessee’s first craft brewery serves a variety of freshly brewed beers as well as wood-fired oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steaks, and sandwiches. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, SB (with live jazz), X, MRA, $-$$ BOUNTY ON BROAD—Offering family-style dining, Bounty serves small plates and family-sized platters, with such specialties as chicken fried quail and braised pork shank. 2519 Broad. 410-8131. L (Sat. and Sun.), D (Mon.-Sat.), SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ BROADWAY PIZZA—Serving a variety of pizzas, including the Broadway Special, as well as sandwiches, salads, wings, and soul-food specials. 2581 Broad. 454-7930; 627 S. Mendenhall. 207-1546. L, D, X, $-$$ CAFE 1912—French/American bistro owned by culinary pioneer Glenn Hays serving such seafood entrees as seared sea scallops with charred cauliflower purée and chorizo cumin sauce; also crepes, salads, and onion soup gratinée. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ THE CAFE AT CROSSTOWN—Features plantbased meals, with such menu items as chicken fried tofu over grits and greens and a seitan pastrami sandwich, as well as daily chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #280. 507-8030. B, L, D, WB, X, $ CAFE BROOKS BY CITY & STATE—Serving grab-and-go pastries, as well as lunch items. Menu includes soups, salads, and sandwiches, such as the Modern Reuben and Grown Up Grilled Cheese. 1934 Poplar (Memphis Brooks Museum of Art). 544-6200. B, L, X, $ CAFE ECLECTIC—Omelets and chicken and waffles are among menu items, along with quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers. Menu varies by location. 603 N. McLean.

725-1718; 111 Harbor Town Square. 590-4645; 510 S. Highland.

410-0765. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $ CAFE OLE—This eatery specializes in authentic Mexican cuisine; one specialty is the build-your-own quesadilla. 959 S. Cooper. 343-0103. L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$ CAFE PALLADIO—Serves gourmet salads, soups, sandwiches, and desserts in a tea room inside the antiques shop.

Closed Sun. 2169 Central. 278-0129. L, X, $ CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Wagyu beef, chicken, and seafood dishes, including bacon-wrapped shrimp, along with daily specials and vegetarian entrees. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CELTIC CROSSING—Specializes in Irish and American pub fare. Entrees include shepherd’s pie, shrimp and sausage coddle, and fish and chips. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ CENTRAL BBQ—Serves ribs, smoked hot wings, pulled pork sandwiches, chicken, turkey, nachos, and portobello sandwiches. Offers both pork and beef barbecue. 2249 Central Ave. 272-9377; 4375 Summer Ave. 7674672; 147 E. Butler. 672-7760 ; 6201 Poplar. 417-7962. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ CHEF TAM’S UNDERGROUND CAFE—Serves Southern staples with a Cajun twist. Menu items include totchos, jerk wings, fried chicken, and “muddy” mac and cheese. Closed Sun. and Mon. 2299 Young. 207-6182. L, D, $ THE COVE—Nautical-themed restaurant and bar serving oysters, pizzas, and more. The Stoner Pie, with tamales and fritos, is a popular dish. 2559 Broad. 730-0719. L, D, $ THE CRAZY NOODLE—Korean noodle dishes range from bibam beef noodle with cabbage, carrots, and other vegetables, to curry chicken noodle; also rice cakes served in a flavorful sauce. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 2015 Madison.

272-0928. L, D, X, $ ECCO—Mediterranean-inspired specialties range from rib-eye steak to seared scallops to housemade pastas and a grilled vegetable plate; also a Saturday

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brunch. Closed Sun.-Mon. 1585 Overton Park. 410-8200. L, D, X, $-$$ ELEMENTO NEAPOLITAN PIZZA—Crosstown pizzeria specializes in Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizza with from-scratch dough. 1350 Concourse Avenue. 6727527. L, D, X, $ ELWOOD’S SHELLS—Cajun/Creole eatery offers po’ boys and such specialties as Red Fish Courtbouillon, fresh Gulf red-fish pan-seared in authentic Creole sauce, topped with shrimp and crawfish. Closed for dinner Sun. 916 Cooper. 552-4967. B, L, D, X, $-$$ FARM BURGER—Serves grass-fed, freshly ground, locally sourced burgers; also available with chicken, pork, or veggie quinoa patties, with such toppings as aged white cheddar, kale coleslaw, and roasted beets. 1350 Concourse Avenue #175.

800-1851. L, D, X, $ FRIDA’S—Mexican cuisine and Tex-Mex standards, including chimichangas, enchiladas, and fajitas; seafood includes shrimp and tilapia. 1718 Madison. 244-6196. L, D, X, $-$$ GLOBAL CAFE—This internationational food hall hosts three immigrant/refugee food entrepreneurs serving Nepalese, Sudanese, and Syrian cuisines. Samosas, shawarma, and kabobs are among the menu items. Closed Mon. 1350 Concourse Avenue #157. L, D, X, MRA, $ GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, X, $-$$ GROWLERS—Sports bar and eatery serves standard bar fare in addition to a pasta, tacos, chicken and waffles, and light options.

1911 Poplar. 244-7904. L, D, X, $-$$ HATTIE B’S—Fried chicken spot features “hot chicken” with a variety of heat levels; from no heat to “shut the cluck up” sauce.

Sides include greens, pimento mac-and-cheese, and black-eyed pea salad. 596 Cooper. 424-5900. L, D, X, $ HM DESSERT LOUNGE—Serving cake, pie, and other desserts, as well as a selection of savory dishes, including meatloaf and mashed potato “cupcakes.” Closed Monday. 1586 Madison. 290-2099. L, D, X, $ HOPDODDY BURGER BAR—Focus is on locally sourced ingredients, with freshly baked buns and meat butchered and ground in-house. Patty options include Angus or Kobe beef, bison, chicken, and more; also vegetarian/vegan. 6 S. Cooper.

654-5100; 4585 Poplar. 683-0700. L, D, X, $ IMAGINE VEGAN CAFE—Dishes at this fully vegan restaurant range from salads and sandwiches to full dinners, including eggplant parmesan and “beef” tips and rice; breakfast all day Sat. and Sun. 2158 Young. 654-3455. L, D, WB, X, $ INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb shish kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrees; also, vegetarian options and a daily all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, X, $-$$ INSPIRE COMMUNITY CAFE—Serving breakfast all day, in addition to quesadillas, rice bowls, and more for lunch and dinner. 510 Tillman, Suite 110. 509-8640. B, L, D, X, $ LAFAYETTE’S MUSIC ROOM—Serves such Southern cuisine as po boys and shrimp and grits, and wood-fired pizzas.

2119 Madison. 207-5097. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$ LBOE—Gourmet burger joint serves locally sourced ground beef burgers, with options like the Mac-N-Cheese Burger and Caprese.

Black bean and turkey patties available. 2021 Madison. 725-0770.

L, D, X, $ THE LIQUOR STORE—Renovated liquor store turned diner serves all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and entrees such as Salisbury steak and smothered pork chops. Closed for dinner Sun.-Mon. 2655 Broad. 405-5477. B, L, D, X, $-$$ LITTLE ITALY—Serving New York-style pizza as well as subs and pasta dishes. 1495 Union. 725-0280; 106 GE Patterson. L, D, X, $-$$ LUCKY CAT RAMEN—Specializes in gourmet ramen bowls, with such ingredients as braised pork belly and housemade blackened garlic, made with rich broth. Bao, steamed buns filled with various meats and veggies, also grace the menu. Closed Sun. 2583 Broad. 208-8145. L, D, X, $-$$ MAMA GAIA—Greek-inspired dishes at this vegetarian eatery include pitas, “petitzzas,” and quinoa bowls. 2144 Madison.

214-2449. B, L, D, X, $-$$ MARDI GRAS MEMPHIS—Serving Cajun fare, including an etouffee-stuffed po’boy. Closed Mon. 496 Watkins. 530-6767.

L, D, X, $-$$

We are a family owned and operated business that specializes in New Orleans seafood and cuisine. Our catfish and our spicy crab legs are our specialty. We are the third place winners for best home cooking in the Best of Memphis.

60 N. Main Street Memphis, TN (901) 730-0384 reginascajunkitchen.com

Thank you Memphis for your support for 49 great years!

www.hueyburger.com

Broadway Pizza House Legendary Pizza Since 1977

2581 Broad Avenue (901) 454-7930

629 South Mendenhall (901) 207-1546

Memphis Magazine’s

THE 2018

FACE OF

PIZZA

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MAXIMO’S ON BROAD—Serving a tapas menu that features creative fusion cuisine; entrees include veggie paella and fish of the day. Closed Mon. 2617 Broad Ave. 452-1111. D, SB, X, $-$$ MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads.

2087 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville).

861-7800; 5627 Getwell (Southaven). 662-536-1364. L, D, X, $-$$ MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Homemade tamales, fish tacos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ NEXT DOOR AMERICAN EATERY—The Kitchen’s sister restaurant serves dishes sourced from American farms.

Menu features chorizo bacon dates, spicy gulf shrimp, and dry-aged beef burgers. 1350 Concourse Avenue Suite 165.

779-1512. L, D, X, $ ONIX RESTAURANT—Serves seafood dishes, including barbecued shrimp and pecan-crusted trout, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. Closed Sun. 1680 Madison. 552-4609.

L, D, X, $-$$ PAYNE’S BAR-B-QUE—Opened in 1972, this family owned barbecue joint serves ribs, smoked sausage, and chopped pork sandwiches with a standout mustard slaw and homemade sauce. About as down-toearth as it gets. 1762 Lamar. 272-1523. L, D, $-$$ PHO BINH—Vietnamese, vegetarian, and Cantonese specialties include lemon tofu and spring rolls. Closed Sunday.

1615 Madison. 276-0006. L, D, $ RAILGARTEN—Located in a former rail station space, this eatery offers breakfast items, a variety of salads and sandwiches, and such entrees as short rib mac-and-cheese and fish tacos. Also serves shakes, malts, floats, and cream sodas.

2166 Central. 231-5043. B, L, D, $-$$ RED FISH ASIAN BISTRO—From the former 19th Century Club building, serves sushi, teriyaki, and hibachi.

Specialities include yuzu filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. 1433 Union. 454-3926; 9915 Highway 64 (Lakeland). 729-7581; 6518 Goodman (Olive Branch). 662-874-5254. L, D, X, $-$$$ RESTAURANT IRIS—French Creole-inspired classics, such as gulf shrimp and rice grits congee served with lap chong sausage and boiled peanuts, are served at this newly remodeled restaurant owned by Chef Kelly English, a Food and Wine “Top Ten.” 2146 Monroe. 5902828. D, X, $$-$$$ ROBATA RAMEN & YAKITORI BAR—Serves ramen noodle bowls and Yakitori skewers as well as rice and noodle dishes. 2116 Madison. 410-8290. L, D, X, $ SABROSURA—Serves Mexican and Cuban fare, including arroz tapada de pollo and steak Mexican. Closed Sun. 782 Washington. 421-8180. L, D, X, $-$$ SAUCY CHICKEN—Specializes in antibiotic-free chicken dishes with locally sourced ingredients, with such items as hot wings and the Crosstown Chicken Sandwich, and a variety of house-made dippings sauces; also, seafood, salads, and daily specials. L, D (Mon.-Fri.), $ SECOND LINE, THE—Kelly English brings “relaxed Creole cuisine” to his newest eatery; serves a variety of po-boys and such specialties as barbecue shrimp, and andouille, shrimp, and pimento cheese fries. 2144 Monroe. 590-2829. L, D, WB, X, $-$$ SEKISUI—Japanese fusion cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrees. Poplar/Perkins location’s emphasis is on Pacific Rim cuisine. Menu and hours vary at each location. 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; 1884 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova).

309-8800; 4724 Poplar (between Perkins & Colonial). 767-7770; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-0622; 2990 Kirby-Whitten (Bartlett). 377-2727; 6696 Poplar. 747-0001. L, D, X, $-$$$ STONE SOUP CAFE—Cooper-Young eatery serving soups, salads, quiche, meat-and-two specials; and daily specials such as Italian roast beef. Closed Monday. 993 S. Cooper. 922-5314.

B, L, SB, X, $ SOUL FISH CAFE—Serving Southern-style soul food, tacos, and Po Boys, including catfish, crawfish, oyster, shrimp, chicken and smoked pork tenderloin. 862 S. Cooper. 725-0722; 3160 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 755-6988; 4720 Poplar.

590-0323. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ SWEET GRASS—Chef Ryan Trimm takes Southern cuisine to a new level. Low-country coastal cuisine

includes such specialties as shrimp and grits. Closed Mon. Restaurant’s “sister,” Sweet Grass Next Door, open nightly, serves lunch Sat.-Sun. 937 S. Cooper. 278-0278. D, SB, X, $-$$$ TROLLEY STOP MARKET—Serves plate lunches/dinners as well as pizzas, salads, and vegan/vegetarian entrees; a specialty is the locally raised beef burger. Also sells fresh produce and goods from local farmers; delivery available. Saturday brunch; closed Sunday. 704 Madison. 526-1361. L, D, X, $ TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Chef Ben Smith is a Cooper-Young pioneer. Specialties include Asian nachos and roasted sea bass.

Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, X, MRA, $$-$$$

SOUTH MEMPHIS (INCLUDES

PARKWAY VILLAGE, FOX MEADOWS, SOUTH MEMPHIS, WINCHESTER, AND WHITEHAVEN)

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves such specialties as homemade ravioli, lasagna, and pizza with barbecue or traditional toppings. 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652; 2850 Appling Rd. (Bartlett). 383-1122. L, D, X, $-$$ CURRY BOWL—Specializes in Southern Indian cuisine, serving Tandoori chicken, biryani, tikka masala, and more.

Weekend buffet. 4141 Hacks Cross. 207-6051. L, D, $ DELTA’S KITCHEN—The premier restaurant at The Guest House at Graceland serves Elvis-inspired dishes — like Nutella and Peanut Butter Crepes for breakfast — and upscale Southern cuisine — including lamb chops and shrimp and grits — for dinner. 3600 Elvis Presley Blvd. 443-3000. B, D, X, $-$$$ DWJ KOREAN BARBECUE—This authentic Korean eatery serves kimbap, barbecued beef short ribs, rice and noodles dishes, and hot pots and stews. 3750 Hacks Cross, Suite 101. 746-8057; 2156 Young. 207-6204. L, D, $-$$ THE FOUR WAY—Legendary soul-food establishment dishing up such entrees as fried and baked catfish, chicken, and turkey and dressing, along with a host of vegetables and desserts. Around the corner from the legendary Stax Studio. Closed Monday. 998 Mississippi Blvd.

507-1519. L, D, $ INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, X, $-$$ LEONARD’S—Serves wet and dry ribs, barbecue sandwiches, spaghetti, catfish, homemade onion rings, and lemon icebox pie; also a lunch buffet. 5465 Fox Plaza. 360-1963. L, X, $-$$ MARLOWE’S—In addition to its signature barbecue and ribs, Marlowe’s serves Southern-style steaks, chops, lasagne, and more. 4381 Elvis Presley Blvd. 332-4159. D, X, MRA, $-$$ UNCLE LOU’S FRIED CHICKEN—Featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for good reason: fried chicken (mild, hot, or home-style); jumbo burgers four patties high; strawberry shortcake, and assorted fruit pies. 3633 Millbranch. 332-2367. L, D, X, MRA, $

SUMMER/BERCLAIR/ RALEIGH/BARTLETT ASIAN PALACE—Chinese eatery serves seafood, vegetarian items, dim sum, and more. 5266 Summer Ave. 766-0831. L, D, X, $-$$ ELWOOD’S—Casual comfort food includes tacos, pizza and sandwiches. Specialties include meats smoked in-house (chicken, turkey, brisket, pork), barbecue pizza and steelhead trout tacos. 4523 Summer. 7619898. B, L, D, X, $ EXLINES’ BEST PIZZA—Serves pizza, Italian dinners, sandwiches, and salads. 6250 Stage Rd. 382-3433; 2935 Austin Peay. 388-4711; 2801 Kirby Parkway. 754-0202; 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (Germantown). 753-4545; 531 W. Stateline Rd. 662-3424544 (check online for additional locations). L, D, X, MRA, $ GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, shrimp, pork plate, chicken, and hot tamales; also daily lunch specials. Closed Tues.

6842 Stage Rd. 377-8055. L, D, X, $-$$ LA TAQUERIA GUADALUPANA—Fajitas and quesadillas are just a few of the authentic Mexican

entrees offered here. A bona-fide Memphis institution. 4818 Summer. 685-6857; 5848 Winchester. 365-4992. L, D, $ LOTUS—Authentic Vietnamese-Asian fare, including lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, Pho soup, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, X, $ MORTIMER’S—Contemporary American entrees include trout almondine, chicken dishes, and hand-cut steaks; also sandwiches, salads, and daily/nightly specials.

A Memphis landmark since the Knickerbocker closed. Closed for lunch Sat.-Sun. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGASAKI INN—Chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer.

454-0320. D, X, $$ PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin and Cantonese entrees; also seafood specials and fried rice. Closed for lunch Saturday. 3735 Summer. 323-4819.

L, D, X, $-$$ QUEEN OF SHEBA—Featuring Middle Eastern favorites and Yemeni dishes such as lamb haneeth and saltah. 4792 Summer.

207-4174. L, D, $ SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrees; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sun.-Mon. 5689 Stage Rd. 377-2484. D, X, $-$$

UNIVERSITY NEIGHBORHOOD DISTRICT (INCLUDES CHICKASAW GARDENS AND HIGHLAND STRIP)

A-TAN—Serves Chinese and Japanese hibachi cuisine, complete with sushi bar. A specialty is Four Treasures with garlic sauce. 3445 Poplar, Suite 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, X, $-$$$ THE BLUFF—New Orleans-inspired menu includes alligator bites, nachos topped with crawfish and andouille, gumbo, po’boys, and fried seafood platters. 535 S. Highland. 454-7771. L, D, X, $-$$ BROTHER JUNIPER’S—This little cottage is a breakfast mecca, offering specialty omelets, including the open-faced San Diegan omelet; also daily specials, and homemade breads and pastries. Closed Mon. 3519 Walker. 3240144. B, X, $ CHAR RESTAURANT—Specializing in modern Southern cuisine, this eatery offers homestyle sides, char-broiled steaks, and fresh seafood. 431 S. Highland, #120. 249-3533. L, D, WB, X, MRA, $-$$$ DERAE RESTAURANT—Ethiopian and Mediterranean fare includes fuul, or fava beans in spices and yogurt, goat meat and rice, and garlic chicken over basmati rice with cilantro chutney; also salmon and tilapia. Closed Monday. 923 S. Highland. 552-3992. B, L, D, $-$$ EL PORTON—Fajitas, quesadillas, and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown).

754-4268; 8361 Highway 64. 380-7877; 3448 Poplar, Poplar Plaza.

452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770. L, D, X, MRA, $-$$ JOES’ ON HIGHLAND—Specializes in fried chicken and comfort sides such as warm okra/green tomato salad and turnip greens. Entrees include salmon patties and chicken fried steak. Closed Mon. 262 S. Highland. 337-7003. L, D, X, $ MEDALLION—Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrees. Closed for dinner Sunday. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-1030. B, L, D, SB, X, MRA, $-$$$ OPEN FLAME—Authentic Persian and Mediterranean eatery specializes in shish kebabs and kosher and halal fare. 3445 Poplar. 207-4995. L, D, X, $

OUT-OF-TOWN TACKER’S SHAKE SHACK—This family-run establishment offers plate lunches, catfish dinners, homemade desserts, and a variety of hamburgers, including a mac ‘n’ cheese-topped griddle burger. Closed Sun. 409 E. Military Rd. (Marion, AR). 870-739-3943.

B, L, D, $ BONNE TERRE—This inn’s cafe features American cuisine with a Southern flair, and a seasonal menu that changes monthly. Offers Angus steaks, duck, pasta, and seafood. Closed Sun.-Wed. 4715 Church Rd. W. (Nesbit, MS). 662-781-5100. D, X, $-$$$

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BOZO’S HOT PIT BAR-B-Q—Barbecue, burgers, sandwiches, and subs. 342 Hwy 70 (Mason, TN). 901-294-3400.

L, D, $-$$ CATFISH BLUES—Serving Delta-raised catfish and Cajunand Southern-inspired dishes, including gumbo and fried green tomatoes. 210 E. Commerce (Hernando, MS). 662-298-3814. L, D, $ CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic cuisine; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed for dinner Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square (Oxford, MS). 662-232-8080. L, D, SB, X, $$-$$$ COMO STEAKHOUSE—Steaks cooked on a hickory charcoal grill are a specialty here. Upstairs is an oyster bar. Closed Sun. 203 Main St. (Como, MS). 662-526-9529. D, X, $-$$$ LONG ROAD CIDER CO.—Specializes in hard apple ciders made with traditional methods. Cafe-style entrees include black eye peas with cornbread and greens, chicken Gorgonzola pockets, cider-steamed sausage, and housemade ice creams. Closed Sun.-Wed. 9053 Barret Road. (Barretville, TN). 352-0962. D, X, $

CASINO TABLES BOURBON STREET STEAKHOUSE & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-800-467-6182.

CHICAGO STEAKHOUSE AT THE GOLDSTRIKE—1010 Casino Center Dr., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-24KSTAY /662-357-1225.

FAIRBANKS AT THE HOLLYWOOD—1150 Casino Strip Blvd., Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-871-0711.

JACK BINION’S STEAK HOUSE AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. LUCKY 8 ASIAN BISTRO AT HORSESHOE—1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, MS, 1-800-303-SHOE. SAMMY HAGAR’S RED ROCKER BAR & GRILL AT SOUTHLAND PARK—1550 Ingram Blvd., West Memphis, AR, 1-870-735-3670 ext. 5208 THE STEAKHOUSE AT THE FITZ —711 Lucky Ln., Robinsonville, MS, 1-888-766-LUCK, ext 8213.

MANILA FILIPINO RESTAURANT—Entrees include pork belly cutlet with lechon sauce, and shrimp and vegetables in tamarind broth; also daily combos, rice dishes, and chef specials. Closed Sun.-Mon. 7849 Rockford (Millington, TN).

209-8525. L, D, X, $ MARSHALL STEAKHOUSE—Rustic steakhouse serves premium Angus beef steaks, seafood dishes, rack of lamb, and more. Breakfast menu features griddle cakes, and lunch offerings include hamburger steak and oyster po’ boys. 2379 Highway 178 (Holly Springs, MS). 628-3556. B, L, D, X, $-$$$ MEMPHIS BARBECUE COMPANY—Offers spare ribs, baby backs, and pulled pork and brisket, along with such sides as mac and cheese, grits, and red beans. 709 Desoto Cove (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-3762. L, D, X, $-$$ NAGOYA—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 7075 Malco Blvd., Suite 101 (Southaven, MS). 662-349-8788. L, D, X, $-$$$ PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters; also lunch specials. 3600 E. Broadway (West Memphis, AR). 870-7356466. 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, X, MRA, $ PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, nachos, and stuffed barbecue potatoes.

6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. (Millington, TN). 872-2455. L, D, X, $ RAVINE—Serves contemporary Southern cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally grown foods and a menu that changes weekly. Closed Mon.-Tues. 53 Pea Ridge/County Rd. 321 (Oxford, MS). 662-234-4555. D, SB, X, $$-$$$ STEAK BY MELISSA—Aged, choice-grade, hand-cut steaks are a specialty here. Also serving fresh seafood dishes, plate lunches, burgers, and sandwiches. 4975 Pepper Chase Dr. (Southaven, MS). 662-342-0602. L, D, WB, X, $-$$$ WILSON CAFE—Serving elevated home-cooking, with such dishes as deviled eggs with cilantro and jalapeno, scampi and grits, and doughnut bread pudding. 2 N. Jefferson (Wilson, AR). 870-655-0222. L, D (Wed. through Sat. only), X, $-$$$

The Memphis magazine Fiction Contest for Mid-South writers is back ...with a lean and hungry new look!

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he Very Short Story Contest welcomes entries up to 750 words, maximum. Winning stories will be published in Memphis and will be archived on memphismagazine.com. Whereas the fiction contest was in years past a once-a-year event, the Very Short Story Contest will recognize the winning entry every month.

The Very Short Story Contest is presented by Novel, Memphis’ newest independent bookstore. Winning authors will be honored with a $200 gift certificate at Novel.

CONTEST RULES: 1. Authors are strongly encouraged to bring Memphis or the Mid-South into their stories.

How to do this is open to your interpretation.

2. Entries will be accepted throughout the year. The winning entry in any given month must have been received by the end of the second month prior (i.e. June’s winner must be received by the end of April).

3. Each story should be typed, double-spaced, and should not exceed 750 words.

4. With each story should be a cover letter that gives your name, brief author bio, address, phone number, and the title of your story. Please do NOT put your name anywhere on the manuscript itself.

5. Manuscripts may not have been previously published.

6. Manuscripts should be sent to fiction@memphismagazine.com as .doc, .rtf, or .pdf files.

A P R I L 2 0 1 9 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • 127

ENDGAME

Russell Sugarmon He spent his life dedicated to the notion of universal equality.

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alking with Russell Sugarmon in his last years was somewhat like rolling the dice. On a given day, he was sunshine itself — amiable, laid back, and in general radiating bonhomie. On another day, he might appear to be withdrawn and moody. And on yet a third day, Sugarmon, one of the signal figures in the Memphis civil rights saga, could be a veritable encyclopedia of the city’s political history, able to describe it in chapter and verse, and with unequaled analytic clarity. This last attribute was unsurprising inasmuch as Sugarmon had made much of this history himself.

Sugarmon had been suffering from a species of dementia and was in hospice care when he died in February. Yet, in his modest, f lickering (and sometimes incandescent) way, he maintained an awareness of who he was and of the panorama of contemporaries and other figures who had transformed Memphis during the last couple of generations.

Writer/historian Otis Sanford, by his own acknowledgment, relied on Sugarmon heavily for his detailed, animated account of post-Crump, desegregation-era politics in Sanford’s comprehensive chronicle From Boss Crump to King Willie.

A native Memphian, Sugarmon was an erudite man with the common touch, and the course of his education ran from Booker T. Washington High School through Morehouse College, Boston College, Rutgers University, and Harvard Law School.

His interests were astonishingly diverse.

One of the fascinations in his late adulthood was the puzzle of Einsteinian relativity.

The study of it occupied

much of his spare time after he had settled into a kind of retirement. But before that happened, he used himself as a battering

ram on behalf of justice.

For years, Sugarmon served in the legal vanguard of the civil rights cause in Memphis, representing the NAACP in a variety of suits and acting in other ways to break down racial barriers.

In conversation, he would recall leading a group into the office of Mayor Henry Loeb, then in his first term, with a request to desegregate city recreation facilities. When a seated Loeb responded by swiveling in his chair and turning his back on Sugarmon’s group, Claude Armour, commissioner of fire and police and a Crump-era holdover, would counter by saying, “Mayor, we owe them more than that.”

And the seeds of what, tragically, would be an all-too-belated discourse were laid.

There were moments when Sugarmon in his own person became the man of the hour, as when in 1959 he ran for public works commissioner of Memphis under the old commission form of government, a system first imposed upon Memphis

by Ed “Boss” Crump and still functioning as a tool of the local power structure in the years immediately following Crump’s death in 1954.

Sugarmon did not win, but he forced the whites in the field of candidates to anoint one of their own, and one only, to remain in the race, giving what was still the white majority in Memphis some assura n c e t h at the social order would rem a i n , at least for the time being, inviolate. And it should be said that this enforced consolidation on the white side of the scale had

the indirect benefit of allowing an anti-Crump reformer, Bill Farris, to become the “unity” candidate and winner.

T hough Sug a r mo n wa s modest of disposition and by no means a glory-hound, he became for a while the very symbol of local black aspiration and, in 1966, he would win election as a state representative. His 1968 defeat for reelection in the Democratic primary by another aspiring black politician, Alvin King (who was supported by a rising young politician named Harold Ford Sr., founder of a later political dynasty), ironically underscored Sugarmon’s success, along with such other pioneers as H.T. Lockhart, A.W. Willis, and Ben Hooks, in kindling political passions — and competitiveness — among African Americans in Memphis.

None of the eminent and able African-American public servants who followed in his wake failed to see Sugarmon as the pathfinder who did so much to enable their own success. He belonged to the entire community, helping to bring it together. His legacy is continued by his widow Gina, an able contributor in numerous civic causes, and his six children — Elena, Erika, Monique, Tina, Carol, and Tarik, the latter of whom serves today as a City Court Judge.

Though he was first and foremost a hero and champion for his fellow African Americans, Sugarmon was not bashful about owning up to his own mixed ancestry — white, black, and a smattering of Asian — and, through all the back-and-forth swings of relations between the races during his lifetime, he was impeccably and absolutely loyal to the ideal of universal equality, as much without prejudice of any kind as it is possible to be.

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS HONEYSUCKLE ELLIS

by jackson baker

128 • M E M P H I S M A G A Z I N E . C O M • A P R I L 2 0 1 9

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3/19/19 2:33 PM

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