Emu: a culinary comeback

by Courtney Squire Winter Caplanson photos EMU a culinary comeback

Approaching the main central barn area at Penfield Farm in Portland, Connecticut, visitors are treated to a symphony of the happy moos, clucks, cackles, chirps, neighs and honks of the many animals and birds that call this little slice of paradise home. In addition to the animals raised for meat and eggs here on the farm, a variety of rescue animals are lucky enough to live out the rest of their lives here in the rolling green hills of the Connecticut River Valley. Perusing the outskirts of the main central pens, one quickly notices how the animals easily mesh together, sharing the gorgeous views on this twohundred-year-old family farm. Sheep, geese, chickens, peacocks, guinea fowl, pheasant, cattle, pigs, miniature horses, and a llama named Opie all share this lovely space, adding a vibrant cadence of sounds and energy to the landscape. But none are more unique or interesting than the group of prehistoric-looking emus that round out the cheerful array of inhabitants on Penfield Farm.

The emu is a flightless bird with soft brown feathers second only to the ostrich in height. At six feet tall, this Australian native is taller than the average human and can top speeds of up to thirty miles per hour. From afar, the emu looks just like a goofy bird with its long legs, iridescent blue neck, shaggy body, and large orange bug eyes. But up close, it’s obvious that these birds are ancient relics of

the past. As the emu lifts its neck and tilts its head, pondering what to make of any human standing before it, one quickly notices the giant claws on each foot that can easily eviscerate any predator in a New York minute. And when females puff up their chests and start making low-throated drumming sounds, it can feel like you’ve been

transported instantly back in time, seventy five million years to the Cretaceous period, and are face-toface with a spirited velociraptor ready to decimate its prey.

The emu is notorious for being an aggressive animal, but the flock at Penfield Farm is quite different. Bred for temperament, these birds are curious and enjoy interacting with humans - that is, once they’ve decided if they are interested enough. Farm manager Victoria Tchetchet started raising emus over ten years ago after rescuing a pair of females and then adding a male to the mix. Now the farm boasts six breeding pairs, as well as a few rescues, and a mob of fledglings that are raised mostly for their meat and oil. Victoria cares deeply for all the animals on the farm, but has a special penchant for the emus that she describes as a “total labor of love.” And as their emu products grow in popularity, she is thrilled to add more birds to the bunch, while carefully curating the right genetics that lead to a more docile animal.

Emu enjoyed some time in the limelight back in the early 1990’s, when Texas ranchers promoted emu as the next red meat and invested heavily in this new industry; mating pairs fetched up to $50,000 at the time. But it was boom-and-bust and emu popularity fell away until recently, as many are once again learning about the health

benefits of this bird’s meat (and the anti-inflammatory properties of its oil). Added to that is a growing population of folks who have developed what’s called Alpha-gal syndrome, brought on by a tick bite, which causes an allergy to red meat. Those who have found themselves afflicted with this ailment are delighted to have discovered Penfield Farm’s emu, satisfying their craving for red meat while dutifully avoiding any beef or pork in their diets due to this unique condition.

The emu produces a lean meat that is low in fat and cholesterol, and although it comes from a bird, Victoria says the texture and flavor is actually more like “a kind of sweet beef.” Penfield Farm’s emu is sold either as a steak (inside filet, outside filet, and fan filet) or ground, with all the meat sourced from the bird’s legs. Emu eggs are also available when they are in season, and make for a rich and delicious frittata. Emu steaks are excellent enjoyed on the rare side, and take little time to prepare, making

this tender cut of meat a great option for cooks who like simple and quick meal preparations. The ground emu is fantastic as a burger - on its own, or even mixed with ground beef or a little duck fat. It can also take center stage in a chili, Bolognese, or seasonal ragu. Emu’s low fat content makes for a great addition to soups and stews; without having to drain off any fat it makes weeknight meals a snap to prepare, and healthy for the whole family.

Chef Chris Sassi, from the acclaimed Conspiracy craft cocktail bar and restaurant in Middletown, loves the versatility of emu, and describes it as “pretty much a clean slate: it takes on whatever flavor you put into it.” Chris features Penfield Farm’s products on his menu every chance he gets, and loves putting his own unique spin on preparing emu in his kitchen. He recommends cooking the steaks rare to medium-rare for the juiciest and most tender way to enjoy this lean meat. Try making his ReverseSeared Emu Steak at home, a quick and easy preparation that is sublime in its sheer simplicity (see recipe).

For the ground emu meat, be sure to catch his Wild Mushroom and Ground Emu Flatbread when it’s on the menu at Conspiracy, a tried-and-true combination of mushrooms and ground meat that always

delights the senses. Chris also adds flair to the menu with his version of Emu Tartare, yet another delicious way to enjoy Penfield Farm’s unique offerings. This straightforward dish features simple ingredients yet lends a bold level of elegance that is accessible to even the most novice home cook (see recipe).

In addition to the versatility and uniqueness of Penfield Farm’s emu products, Chris also appreciates that he knows exactly where the meat comes from, and how the emus were born, raised, loved, and admired by their caretakers. Farm manager Victoria takes great pride in all of the farm’s products, and her love and high regard for her animals is inherent in all that’s done at Penfield Farm. She notes that “even in the freezer, they’re treated with respect.” And eating healthy local food that has been cared for, and loved, from birth to plate is exactly the kind of food we should be filling our bellies with.

Reverse-Seared Emu Steak Total time: 30 minutes (plus time to marinate). Serves one.

INGREDIENTS: 1 emu fan filet (approximately a half-pound steak) 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 cup melted duck fat (can substitute with melted butter or extra virgin olive oil) Salt and pepper to taste

Mix the rosemary with the melted fat (or oil), and marinate the steak in the refrigerator, for anywhere from 4 to 24 hours, making sure to turn the steak occasionally to ensure even coverage. Allow steak to reach room temperature before cooking. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. When the oven is ready, place the steak, topped with the marinade, on a baking pan and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 105 degrees. Meanwhile, prepare for the final searing step by either heating the grill to medium-high, or heating a cast-iron pan on the stovetop to medium-high. When the steak reaches 105 degrees, take it out and sprinkle a few pinches of salt and pepper on both sides, and then toss it on the grill (or in the heated pan) for about 2 minutes on each side to achieve a nice sear. Do not overcook it! Emu is best enjoyed rare to medium-rare. Enjoy the steak as-is, finished with more salt and pepper to taste, or try it topped with an herb and roasted garlic compound butter, avocado butter, or homemade chimichurri sauce.

Emu Tartare Total 30 min: Serves 4

INGREDIENTS: 1 lb. ground emu 1 cup cooked red kidney beans (approximately 2/3 of a can) 2 tsp. Tabasco or hot sauce of choice 4 tbsp. ketchup 1 tbsp. Worcestershire Sauce 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1/4 cup grapeseed oil OR extra virgin olive oil (approximately) 1 tbsp. chopped scallion greens 1 tsp. each salt and pepper

Add the beans, hot sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, and smoked paprika to a food processor. Puree while slowly adding up to a 1/4 cup of the oil to thicken the mixture and create a smooth emulsion. In a separate bowl, season the ground emu with the salt and pepper, and then mix in the puree and scallion greens until well-incorporated. Serving suggestions: arrange the tartare on top of a bed of greens with some crostini on the side, and try topping the tartare with a whole grain mustard, béarnaise or hollandaise sauce, or even a fried egg drizzled with an herb vinaigrette.

Find Penfield Farm’s Emu meat, eggs and emu oil products, lamb, Berkshire pork, black angus beef, broiler chickens, eggs and more at their Farmstand, open Saturdays from 9-3. Visit them at penfieldfarm.com and follow them on Facebook at facebook.com/penfieldfarm.

Check out the seasonally-inspired and locally-sourced menu at Conspiracy in Middletown at conspiracyct.com. For info on special events, Tasting Table menus featuring local producers, and of course, Penfield Farm emu, follow them on Facebook at facebook.com/conspiracyct.