SAVANNAH
RESTAURANT GUIDE CONNECT SAVANNAH | FALL 2018 EDITION
116 W. CONGRESS ST SAVANNAH, GEORGIA 31401 912.234.5397 | www.sorrycharliessavannah.com
OYSTERS, COCKTAILS & SOUTHERN FARE. HAPPY HOUR: MONDAY — FRIDAY, 4-6 P.M. $1 House Oysters. $3 Select Georgia and South Carolina Draft Beers. $5 Bubbles.
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Contents
Fall 2018
CONNECTSAVANNAH.COM 1464 East Victory Drive Savannah, GA 31404 912-238-2040 GENERAL MANAGER Chris Griffin EDITOR IN CHIEF
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Jim Morekis CONTRIBUTORS Lindy Moody Maria Whiteway Asha Gilbert ART DIRECTOR Brandon Blatcher
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GRAPHIC DESIGNER Loretta Calhoun
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ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Bucky Bryant DISTRIBUTION Wayne Franklin
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CONTACT Sales: 912-721-4378
A Morris Multi Media Publication
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24 6 39 Rue de Jean 8 Dub's Pub 12 Belford's
14 Vedette Creperie
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and Sweets 16 Maple Street Biscuit Company 18 Castaways Sandfly 20 Akedo Ramen Bar 22 Noble Fare 24 Harper's 26 Cohen's Retreat
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ON THE COVER Rue de Jean Photo by Angelia Lee Hopper
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Ratatouille with crepes
39 Rue de Jean Traditional French fare 6
STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY OFTEN SAVANNAH is seen as Charleston’s not-so-polished sister. This is partially due to the fact that Savannah, although changing, is slightly behind Charleston’s thriving food scene. Personally, I adore Savannah’s ability to maintain its quaint small town feeling even though the local food culture is blooming. With the upswing in new fare that can be found around town it was no surprise to many locals that an extremely popular Charleston restaurant, 39 Rue de Jean, was opening a Savannah location in its sister city to the South. I sat down with J.G. Curry, the general manager of our Savannah 39 Rue de Jean location, and he explained to me the idea behind the French restaurant group: “We are really just traditional French fair, brasserie fair. Brasseries originated in France and were attached to breweries and were treated as the town meeting hall...so it is really just French comfort food.” His words made it clear why Savannah has become keen on the thriving restaurant; we Southerners love comfort food in any way shape or form. J.G Curry is responsible for the expansive wine list offered at 39 Rue de Jean, and Chef de Cuisine Michael Finkenaur handles the food. Using his title as a Certified Specialist of Wine from the Society of Wine Educators, Curry puts great care in selecting the various wines available within their list of over two hundred. “I try to use that knowledge to make my list as broad as possible and as approachable as possible in price,” Curry explained when I asked how he goes about selecting the wine for 39 Rue de Jean. Michael Finkenaur, the Chef de Cuisine, began his culinary career
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
Scallops and pasta
washing dishes and worked his way up for about ten years, ending up at the Culinary Institute of America. Alligator Soul, the Andaz Hotel, and the Landings are all places he gained experience before starting with 39 Rue de Jean in 2015. I asked Chef Finkenaur what the approach to the Rue de Jean’s menu is and he told me that they “try to keep things as straightforward as we can.” The bones of the menu, the staple dishes, are always available, but the sides often change seasonally depending on what produce is available. As for the ingredients themselves and how local they are, Curry told me they “use Kachina Farms for vegetables, and we use Swampy Appleseed for fresh mushrooms.” The Ratatouille and Crepes is one of the most beautifully composed dishes I’ve ever laid my eyes on. The plate is filled with brightly colored vegetables and sauces, reminiscent of a classic Jackson Pollock painting. Ratatouille is traditionally a French peasant dish composed by layering stewed vegetables,
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The clams
most typically tomatoes onions, garlic, peppers, and a few varying ingredients. The stewed result is nothing poor, but instead a rich, bone-warming side. Chef pairs his vegetables with creamy goat cheese crepes, asparagus, and a red pepper coulis, a dish any vegetarian would feel satisfied eating. The Moules, or mussels, are prepared six different ways, each as delicious as the last and each sauce more different than the last. The most classic presentation is the Mariniere which includes a broth made of acidic white wine, shallots, and fresh parsley. More adventurous are the mussels served with bacon, blue cheese, and a white wine garlic broth. A mixture between loved low country seafood and traditional French pasta, the Seared Carolina Scallops are served perfectly seared and sitting atop a bed of al dente pasta. “We sell a lot of scallops; they are probably our most popular entree,” Curry elaborated when I enquired as to what patrons have responded to the most. The pasta is layered with wild mushrooms and a garlic cream
sauce. Even more beautiful than the textbook cooking applied to the scallops is the sprinkling of freshly shaved cheese and lemon zest that rests upon the top of the dish when it is presented to you. Techniques and details such as this truly set French cuisine aside – along with their love and use of butter, like all good Southerners. The Braised Short Rib is probably Chef Finkenaur’s favorite dish. He smiled and said “it makes me think of hanging out with my mom when I was a little kid. It is simple, just a plate of whipped potatoes, spinach, and short rib it makes me smile inside.” What Chef forgot to mention is that the dish in fact is not just any old meat and potato dish. The spinach is flavored with truffle and garlic and the sauce included is a raspberry demi glace. The most surprising part of 39 Rue de Jean’s menu is he inclusion of sushi, which is by no means closely related to French cuisine. I asked Curry if he could enlighten me as to the story behind this unique menu section. “The story is that one of the original owners’ daughter only ate 7
sushi, so whenever she ate at daddy’s restaurant they put it on the menu and it stuck,” he said. You can spot the usual sushi rolls on their menu, such as a California roll, but they have also included a few combinations that you can find nowhere else, such as their pork belly roll. If you are not quite sold on French fair, I highly recommend stopping by 39 Rue de Jean for their happy hour which is available all seven days of the week. The happy hour wine is just as impressive as the food, and will soon be expanded to include a new rosé. After a drink, or two, I am certain you will be tempted to try some food. The mussels are included in a short special happy hour menu along with a few other treats such as their ten ounce Brasserie Burger with truffles. Trying any of their delectable specials is sure to convince you of the French way. SRG 39 Rue De Jean 912.721.0595 605 W Oglethorpe Ave. www.holycityhospitality.com/39-ruede-jean-savannah/
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The Chili Cheese Dog
Dub's Pub:
A STEP ABOV E
BY ASHA GILBERT | PHOTOS COURTESTY OF DUB'S PUB ON THE FAR end of River Street, Dub’s Pub is ready to get your day started right with their “Best Bloody Mary on River Street” and mouthwatering entrees that elevate this pub’s menu without hurting your pocket. Serving a mainly American menu, General Manager Jared Wilderman says “Everything being made in the house” is what separates them from the other pubs in town. He goes on to say that although their food isn’t overly fancy, Dub’s
Dub's Pub entrance on Historic River Street
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food kicks ass. After going down the historic stairs, when entering Dub’s, you’ll take note of the Bohemian feel, due to the bar previously being Cobblestone Conch House, a Caribbean restaurant. With the tiki bar still intact, the bamboo along the ceilings finished with the accents of dark hardwood combine to provide relaxing scenery to begin or end any day with. Overlooking the Savannah River, Dub’s offers 24 flat screens
SPORTS. FOOD. FUN.
@ RIVER STREET’S ONLY SPORTS BAR & GAME ROOM COME TRY OUR ELEVATED PUB FARE WHILE CHEERING ON YOUR FAVORITE TEAM! 912.200.3652 | 225 W. RIVER STREET DUBSPUBSAVANNAH.COM
CATCH ALL MAJOR SPORTING EVENTS ON DOZENS OF TV’S
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Fish & Chips
and two projectors, including one 12-footer! Although Dub’s Pub opened as river streets only sports bar including pool tables, ping pong, and arcade-style Pacman, Wilderman wants everyone to know that is only touching the surface of what Dub’s offers. The upper level has a capacity of 115 people, and is also equipped with a full bar. With rustic windows overlooking the Savannah River, Wilderman says they are equipped to host any event you can think of from wedding rehearsals to dinner parties to brunches. Dub’s menu includes a chef’s special that usually changes from day to day ranging, from Italian and Asian entrees to home cooked southern dishes, depending on what’s in season and what’s fresh. With most all sauces made in house, be prepared for freshly roasted meats and fresh-cut pub chips and fries. While sitting at the tiki bar, one may notice the canister full of vegetables nearby. At Dub’s their secret to their “Best Bloody Mary on River Street” is their vegetable-infused vodka. They also offer other freshly infused cocktails and local craft brews! With Dub’s Pub being a part of Live Oak Restaurants group, they
Casual 315W. W.St. St.Julian JulianStreet Street CasualFine FineDining Diningin inCity City Market Market •• 315 912.233.2626 • belfordssavannah.com 912.233.2626 • belfordssavannah.com
FUN IS THE BEST THING TO HAVE!
Fresh Shrimp From Our Docks Daily • Nightly Sunset Celebrations
Open Daily at 11am • 912.786.7810 • CoCosTybee.com Lazaretto Creek Marina • 1 Old US Hwy 80, Tybee Island 10
offer a loyalty point system that can be used at any number of their other restaurants, including Tubby’s and Fiddlers. Every dollar spent counts as a point to be used towards a prize -- when enough have been accumulated you can get buy-one-get-one entrees and free appetizers. Dub’s has NFL Sunday ticket, Red Zone, and they show almost all NCAA college football games every Saturday. Come cheer on your favorite team while you sit back, relax, and let Dub’s do the work for you! Wilderman has more in store with adding more TVs in the upcoming few weeks so you can enjoy even more football all season long. Dub’s is also the place to be for all things UFC! They have shown every PPV fight this year! They’re also getting the kitchen ready to offer full service on both the upper level and the lower level. So, whether you’re looking for pick-me-up, or a nifty place to watch Sunday’s football game, Dub’s Pub has elevated pub fare and features drinks that never disappoint. SRG Dub’s Pub 912.20.3652 225 W River St dubspubriverstreet.com
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Laissez Les Brunch Temps Rouler Everyday until 3pm
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Casual elegance in a beautifil old cotton warehouse overlooking the Savannah river.
HUEY’S A SOUTHERN CAFÉ
26 E. Bay St. • 912.721.1000 www.vicsontheriver.com
115 E. River St. • 912.234.7385 WWW.HUEYSONTHERIVER.NET 11
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Oysters
Crab cakes
BELFORD'S IS UPSCALE DINING STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
SINCE OPENING in 1996, Belford’s Savannah has provided Hostess City locals and tourists with upscale steaks, seafood, and much more for over two decades. The building was constructed in 1902 for Savannah’s Hebrew Congregation, but the Belford family eventually purchased it. The venture of the Belford family was a thriving wholesale food company in the center of the historic district—City Market. So when Belford’s became what it is, the restaurant decided to pay homage to its roots by honoring the family name. Remnants of the sites prior use remain on the brick of the outside of building to this day, and in the main dining room
typical sizzling, swampy day, you will find the deck of the restaurant bustling with guests. What better place to watch tourists attempt to emulate the Savannah way, drink in hand, than on a porch in City Market sipping sweet tea and chomping on a steak? Head Chef Marlow McGert of Belford’s has years of history under her belt as well, most of which she received while working with the store. “She started in the dish pit and during the past sixteen years has elevated herself from prep cook to kitchen manager to sous chef. She recently received her culinary degree from Savannah
of the restaurant patrons can find a portrait of the Belford family. The site is not only known for its historic past and significance; since Belford’s inception the restaurant has continued to woo patrons over and over. It is rare for a restaurant to stay open for such a long period of time and be able to stay relevant. The restaurant has proven its success by being name “The Best Of...” time and time again, even receiving recognition from powerhouses like the New York Times and Bon Appetit. I would also consider Belford’s to have one of the best porch-sitting spots in all of the Historic District. If the weather is not a 12
Technical College and is now Chef Marlow,” Bailey, the Manager and Event Coordinator of Belford’s, explains. The restaurant offers lunch, dinner, and even brunch. Each menu includes items that stay true to southern fair while elevating the dish. A quick scan of the menu reveals that you will not get plain old shrimp and grits, but a remake of the classic using gouda, chardonnay, and collard greens. Bailey tells me the aim of the menu is “to offer a taste of Southern cuisine that includes fresh seafood, prime steaks, and creatively prepared dishes.” The Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes
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are award winning, and could be considered one of Belford’s signature dishes. They are offered multiple ways on each menu, you can order them as a starter, entree, or covered in hollandaise sauce for Sunday brunch. As a main dish you will receive two extra thick, super chunky blue crab cake, a succotash made with sweet tender corn, and bright wilted spinach. For those non-Southerners reading this article, a succotash is a side dish typically created from a mixture of lima beans, corn, and a heap of creamy butter. On the Sunday brunch menu the hockey puck sized crab cakes are served with a decadent hollandaise, runny poached eggs, and smoked Gouda grits. It should be added that Belford’s brunch comes with a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. I would expect nothing else from a true Savannah restaurant—after all, hospitality is our thing.
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
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too beautiful to eat. Artfully arranged on the dish, the briny oysters come topped with Kalamata olives, Roma tomatoes, red onion, parsley, and lemon for a bright pick-me-up. Pecan Crusted Halibut, another Chef Special, would be my very first choice in deciding what to order for an entree. A filet as meaty as any steak on the menu is hand crusted in crushed pecans then cooked until flaky and tender. Below the fish sits a mound of whipped sweet potatoes and al denti French green beans, and the dish is finished with a river of succulent rosemary-dijon cream. I find (more often than not) entrees that feature fish as the leading lady of a dish lack a needed amount of textural components to take the dish to the next level. Belford’s Pecan Crusted Halibut has every texture and flavor you could want in a composed dish.
The lunch version is available as sliders or a starter accompanied with tortilla chips. The sliders are as unique as the rest of the menu, topped with arugula for a pepper kick, sweet tomato jam, spicy jalapeño aioli, and crunchy coleslaw. On the side for the lunch version sit delicious, crisp French fries. “We offer daily lunch and dinner specials and our regular menu is updated seasonally,” Bailey says, which means when you find yourself returning for Belford’s for more delicious food, you can experience something new by turning to their specials. Currently on the Chef Specials menu sits several tempting dishes, most of which is seafood. The keystone to any good low country menu is its oysters, which in my opinion can make or break a menu. The Grilled Bluepoint Oysters, which originate from the cold waters of New York, are almost
Lets not forget about the steaks, especially considering steak is one of the headliners on their sign. You will find an array of high quality red meat in the section of the menu titled Butcher’s Cuts—a 38-day aged filet mignon, boneless ribeye, and a 55-day aged New York strip steak. No matter which cut you land on, eat plate is served with whipped potatoes, earthy asparagus, and a pungent peppercorn sauce. To finish your meal, I recommend getting dessert even if you feel a little too full for it. Belford’s dessert menu has all of the classic Southern steak house items you could want. White Chocolate Bread Pudding, Chocolate Loren Cake, Georgia Peach Cobbler, and even an Ice Cream Sunday served with a waffle cone. SRG Belfords 912.233.2626 315 West St. Julian Street www.belfordssavannah.com
BAR & RESTAURANT 912.777.7597
THEGROVESAVANNAH.COM 13
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Vedette
RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
and a crepe:
Yep!
STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
SAVANNAH is known for its beautiful squares that are surrounded with historic homes and filled with moss-laden, low-hanging trees. Much credit for Savannah’s growth and continuing beauty can be attributed to the Savannah College of Art and Design, and the college’s efforts to preserve and restore many buildings within the Historic District. Now the same thing can be said for the ever changing culinary scene in Savannah. SCAD not only renewed many buildings that can be found all over the city, but the school has also opened five culinary shops around town. As part of their efforts, SCAD has opened Vedette Creperie and Sweets within the Lucas Theatre. Vedette is Savannah’s newest crepe and baked good shop that serves patrons of both the Lucas and all of Savannah alike. You can grab a quick crepe and drink to enjoy as you enjoy the Lucas’s latest offering, or pop in just for a crepe itself. First on the menu you will find Vedette’s sweet crepes, and at the
The Berries and Creme Crepe in its to-go holder
The Blueberry Lemon Crepe with a smoothie 14
very top of the list is the Red Velvet Cake Crepe. Upon reading the menu, I imagined the crepe batter itself to be red and made to taste like red velvet. Vedette outsmarted me, and when the crepe arrived at the table I was delightfully surprised to find that instead they layer the crepe with fresh moist crumbles of actual red velvet cake, mascarpone cheese, and chocolate chips. The red velvet cake is baked specifically for their special crepe. The mascarpone cheese keeps the dish lighter than its traditional counterpart, cream cheese, while the chocolate chips add the perfect crunchy texture. As for the star of the dish, the cake, it is light and moist, just like your mom makes it. Beyond the decadent fillings, the size of Vedette’s crepes truly sets them apart. I would consider theirs to be two to three times larger than your average crepe, and to accommodate their size the store has a special paper holder for taking the crepe with you and eating it on the go. Vedette also offers kid size
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favorite cheese, is Spanish cheese made from sheep’s milk. Like I said, this version trumps a typical Italian sub by using elevated ingredients to create a more adult version. As you cut into the crepe, or just pick it up and bite it, the fig jam immediately oozes out. Next your tongue is coated in the salty flavor of pork before being washed away with the bright peppery flavor of the arugula and warm melted manchego. As for the balsamic, it adds just the right amount of tang. If you are looking for a crepe that is a bit more classic, the Croque-Monsieur should be your go-to. For Vedette’s version, they stuff their oversized crepe with ham, bechamel, Gruyere, and arugula. The opposite of classic is the Banh Mi Crepe, which takes inspiration from the spicy Vietnamese sandwich. Traditionally a banh mi is layered with pork or chicken, pickled vegetables, cucumbers, and a spicy mayonnaise, all atop a sliced crunchy baguette. Vedette gets rid of the clunky french bread and layers their crepe version of the Vietnamese sandwich with fresh, tender shrimp, making the entire dish feel light — perfect for a summer lunch in our Savannah summer heat. Other unique savory crepe
Red Velvet Crepe
crepes which “are smaller and slightly easier to hold,” says Director of Auxiliary Services Lauren Bell. Next on the menu you will find the Bananas Foster Crepe, which tasted even better than you can imagine. Banana bread pudding and fresh bananas are piled inside of this crepe. For the crunch factor, banana chips are added to the top along with whipped cream and a sticky rum sauce. The mixture of fresh, dried, and bread pudding bananas contribute a deep banana flavor to the dish without overpowering the palate. The Blueberry Lemon Crepe features classic flavors of summer dessert, lemon curd and fresh blueberries. Ricotta is the cheese of choice to fill this sweet treat, which is a mild flavored cheese
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that adds a creamy airy balance to a the tangy lemon curd. Just like most everything featured on their menu, the lemon curd is made from scratch and not poured from a can. The blueberry lemon crepe has been their “most popular just because it is great for summer, it is light and fresh. If you like lemon it is the right amount of tart,” Lauren explains. My favorite of the bunch was the Italian Crepe, and no, it does not come stuffed full of meats like you’d find in an Italian sub — it’s much better than that. Layered inside the delicate crepe is salty sweet prosciutto ham, nutty tangy manchego cheese, bright yet sweet fig jam, and spicy fresh arugula. To finish the dish is a dark sticky drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette. Manchego cheese, my 15
creations you will find available is the Mediterranean crepe with hummus, red pepper, cucumber, and feta, and the Korean BBQ jammed with pulled pork and pickled vegetables. Both of which I will be back to try. Vedette’s menu is not limited to crepes, as of a few weeks ago the store began offering fresh smoothies. “The yellow smoothie is President Wallace’s favorite” smoothie, I am told by Lauren. She explains that SCAD President Paula Wallace has come into each restaurant operated by SCAD to taste the dishes. In the store you will also find an assortment of delicate baked goods made in-house at their sister store, Gryphon Tea Room. Also available is an assortment of fresh hot brewed coffee drinks, because what goes better with dessert than coffee? The menu changes with the seasons, and “has something for every part of your day,” Lauren says. You can come in for a morning coffee or smoothie, stop by for a light savory lunch crepe, and finish your day with a sweet unique crepe. SRG Vedette Creperie and Sweets 912/525/8059 32 Abercorn St www.scad.edu/life/buildings-and-facilities/vedette
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MAPLE STREET BISCUIT COMPANY:
A true taste of the South STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
A TRUE Southerner knows what it means when a restaurant offers a catfish head biscuit. But a word does not exist to fully describe the gigantic-sized biscuits offered at Maple Street Biscuit Company. The staff does not stop with serving biscuits so large your plan of attack has to include a fork and knife, but they are also cranking out “400-600 biscuits a day,” Christina Cocita, Community Leader of the Savannah store, tells me. With 21 different locations, Savannah’s Maple Street Biscuit Company is not the restaurant’s first storefront. Maple Street
Regardless of your decision, you will be pleased with the flavor of the biscuit alone, even without trying anything else. Why, you ask? All you have to do is take a gander at the color of the flaky delicate bread to see that there is so much butter jammed in that the biscuit has a slight yellow tint, and every good Southerner knows that butter makes everything better. According to Christina, “the Five and Dime is one of our most popular items.” For good reason, because this plate-full even comes with the
opened in the Port City this March because they wanted “to be a part of the beautiful Savannah community and graciously serve as many people as we can,” Christina explains. Our neighbors to the south were lucky when the franchise opened its first location just a short six years ago in San Marco, Florida. When it comes to Maple Street’s food, I have to warn you, you are going to have a very difficult time deciding which biscuit to devour. But if need be, you can come back the next day to try a completely different Southern pastry. 16
kitchen sink. Balancing on top of a thick biscuit bottom sits a well-endowed filet of chicken that is generously seasoned, breaded, and fried. Piled high atop that is a warm melted slice of sharp cheddar cheese, and thick slices of pecanwood smoked bacon. Before placing the top of the biscuit on, the chef adds a rich and tender fried egg, then a ladlesized scoop of sinful homemade sausage gravy that tastes just like the kind every Southern grandmother make. The chicken is juicy, delicate, and so well seasoned that it stands up to everything else on the dish.
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As for the white gravy, it has a slight pink hue from all of the herbs and spices which adds quite a kick to your tongue. Lastly, your tastebuds will detect a slight hint of maple, you can thank the bacon for that. Although the pecanwood smoked bacon costs a bit more than the average stuff, the restaurants opts for it because it tastes so much better. The Squawking Goat was “featured on Food Network’s Food Paradise,” says Christina. This creation is like nothing I, or you, have ever tasted. Sandwiched between the extra buttery biscuit is that out-of-thisworld fried chicken (that’s right more fried chicken), seasoned, battered, and fried goat cheese, and an extra large dose of pepper jelly. The goat cheese has a thin tender crust with an oozing center that is tangy, the perfect juxtaposition to the sweetness of the pepper jelly. The pepper jelly has a flavor reminiscent of an Asian sweet and sour sauce, but instead it is fully Southern. Let’s not forget The Firebird, a recent addition to the expansive menu. As you may have guessed by the name, this work of art comes with fiery red buffalo chicken. Just like almost everything on the menu, the buffalo sauce coating the elephantine breast is made in house and is sweeter than many hot wing sauces. Paired with the spicy chicken is lettuce and tomato, which is a refreshing touch to the bold buffaloed flavor. Since the biscuit is just about too large to eat with two hands, I recommend removing the top bun and pouring over the thick luxurious ranch dressing that comes on the side (or their delicious bleu cheese if that’s more your style). If biscuits are not really your thing, Maple Street offers their own take on chicken and waffles: The BAM! Yo Yo. Setting their waffles apart is the addition of nutty asiago cheese
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
and salty bacon into the batter — subtle but unique components to the dish. Texturally, the waffle is chewy yet tender which permits the syrup to soak in without destroying the integrity of the bread. Many chicken and waffle servers skimp on the amount of chicken allotted, leaving the customer with more waffle than necessary. At Maple Street, the sizable chicken fingers gives each patron a bite of chicken for every bite of waffle. To wake you up and cool you off on a hot Savannah summer day, the Maple Vanilla Latte is different than any other brew in town, which is what I think makes a true signature drink. Jacksonville’s Redleaf Coffee’s espresso is the base and, true to latte form, steam milk is added. The twist? Maple Street’s very own house-made maple vanilla syrup. Whether you drink it hot or cold, the maple and vanilla melody is light, and touches your tongue with the slightest hint of floral vanilla to complement the wisp of deep sappy notes of maple. As for the rest of their coffee, it is available in three different roasts, maple tat, a medium roast, dark bark, a dark roast, and light amber, their light roast. Just like the coffee, the restaurant sources their hot sauce, available to try on each table, from a local producer in Jacksonville, Florida. Christina tells me that, Maple Street’s aim is to “help people, serve others, and be a part of their community.” So no matter the next location, you can be sure that the store will bring delicious food and a positive outlook in improving the community. As a Savannahian, I’d say bringing in fried chicken and biscuits is a great way to break into ours. SRG Maple Street Biscuit Company 912.349.7301 220 W. Broughton St. maplestreetbiscuits.com 17
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Castaways Sandfly keeps locals coming back
STORY AND PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
SAVANNAH could be considered the seafood capital of Georgia. It seems like every turn you take, you can find a seafood shack that offers sweet coastal shrimp and local fish. Some joints may find it difficult to stand out from the school of seafood shacks, but longtime local, Castaways Sandfly, has found the secret to keep locals coming back time and time again. Unlike many of our beloved seafood restaurants, Castaways offers more than just coastal shrimp and a catch or two. Their menu features a wide array of fish sourced from coasts around the world. The focus of Castaways is all seafood (as you would most likely suspect, given the name), so when Chef Kirk Blaine approaches his menu, he tries to make sure he “can have a consistent menu by sourcing items internationally.” When you try the food at Castaways, you realize the thought and care taken with selecting the fish to put on the menu and the structure of the dishes. Blaine told me that “all of the recipes I have been thinking about for years end up on our permanent menu. It is a culmination of almost twenty years of thinking about what my menu is going to look like.” The rotating specials menu is inspired by what is available to 18
Chef Blaine combined with what would make a well-rounded, beautiful dish. I can assure you he also contributes his culinary history to every dish on his menu. After finishing his studies at the Culinary Institute of America, he quickly became the Executive Chef of Driftaway Cafe, and he also began working with Cohen’s Retreat. Now, alongside being the Chef of Castaways, Blaine has current operation of The Howling Hound. More importantly, he says he would not be as successful as he is without the strong team that supports him in the kitchen of Castaways. And let me tell you—the unity in the kitchen transfers to the tongue with every bite. The Tuna Tower is my idea of a perfect light and balanced summer appetizer. Tower is the appropriate designation, not because of the stacking, but because the size of starter is reminiscent of the Savannah Bank Building. Raw, fresh ahi tuna is glazed with mandarin orange then chunked along with buttery avocado and crisp cucumbers. A sweet mango salsa and earthy spring greens are added to the mix before being stacked between multiple layers of golden brown wonton chips. The entire dish has everything you want, it is cool, sweet, crunchy, savory, and more.
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Chef Blaine is not the only one responsible for the delectable creations available at Castaways. His wife, Ashley Blaine, has had a hand in many of the dishes you can find on the menu. Chef Blaine says “she is an amazing cook, and I want to give all of my credit to her.” The Sandfly Nachos were created for and by Ashley, based on a tradition the two shared while Chef Blaine worked at Driftaway Cafe. After work Ashley would ask Chef Blaine to bring home various ingredients from several local restaurants in Sandfly. At home, Ashley combined the ingredients to create the pair a dinner she dubbed Sandfly Nachos. Castaway’s makes their own version by using the same ingredients that are instead made in-house. Crispy wonton chips rest below a heaping of smoky pulled pork, avocado, creamy manchego cheese, pico de gallo, cilantro, and a spicy caribbean barbeque sauce.
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
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Firecracker Shrimp starter, or order a side of it like almost every single table in the restaurant does during a seating. The Blackened Redfish is one of those dishes that started out as a Castaway’s special, but was so loved and delicious Chef Blaine decided to make it available all the time on the main menu. When I asked Chef Blaine which dishes are most popular with your guests, he responded that “people will tell me they have dreams about the Blackened Redfish.” A delicate, flaky filet of redfish is blackened, but not heavily, then pan fried in a cast iron skillet. It is served atop a mound of island rice and al dente french green beans alongside sweet shrimp. The dish is finished with bright mango salsa, a creamy sauce, and extremely unique Peruvian peppers. The appearance is as colorful as the flavor, but everything comes together in perfect harmony on your fork. Like almost all of the
You may be asking, what business does a seafood restaurant have make barbeque? Maybe calling this a “seafood restaurant” wasn’t the whole story. The staff at Castaways is so well-versed in food, they smoke their own meat in the back. First, they oven roast the pork butts until they are fork tender, then meat is then shredded, mixed with their own spices, and finished by smoking it for at least six hours. By first shredding the pork, then smoking it, this ensures every single bite has the yummy caramelized burnt ends (which everybody knows is the best part). Another extremely popular item Ashley helped develop is Castaways’ firecracker sauce, a sweet spicy chipotle sauce made from a seven pepper blend. Ashley challenged Chef Blaine to make her bang-bang shrimp, and he rose to the challenge by making something more delicious. You can find the sauce on the
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dishes on their menu, this one is balanced with every taste and sensation your palate desires for have a memorable meal. The attention to detail is not just apparent in the fabrication of entrees, but in everything listed on the menu—even the bread that holds your sandwich. Baking bread for the restaurant is a “priority because it increases our quality and attention to detail; we can focus on making sure that we care about every single plate,” Chef Blaine explained. Almost every single item available on their menu is made in-house, which includes their desserts as well. Do not expect some frozen pre-made cheesecake when you glance at the dessert menu, Chef Blaine and his team make every single sweet treat by hand. Castaways Sandfly 912.999.6130 7360 Skidaway Road castawayssandfly.com
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The 'classic' pork ramen.
Akedo
and The Ramen Revolution STORY AND PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
A BIG CITY with a small town feel is how I describe Savannah. The growth of Savannah is as steady as the shipping containers flowing in and out of our port. The accompanying upswing in the local food scene has brought Savannah’s first authentic ramen bar. Akedo Ramen Bar business partner Brad Syfan hit the nail on the head when I asked, “Why bring a legitimate ramen shop to this seafood-driven town?” His response: “Well-executed
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ramen is something you find in major cities across the country but has not really been singled out as something to get excited about in Savannah. We hope to change that.” The menu features three types of house ramen: vegan, pork, and chicken (and also the option to create your own bowl). Every broth used by the restaurant takes at least a day to make. Chef Thomas Bishop explained at the modern yet 20
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broth and delicate bird is shiitake, ramen noodles, bok choy, and an egg. The Build Your Own features many items that are not included in the three house bowls. My favorite, the kimchi made by the Chefs at Akedo, is for those who truly feel as though they are setting out to create their own masterpiece. Be careful though — there are so many choices it would be easy to over-select. In addition a to the house-made ramen noodles, the restaurant also offers Udon and Vermicelli noodles. Vermicelli is for those who prefer skinnier noodles, as compared to the robust traditional udon or ramen options. Power ups, or add-ins, are available in personalizing your soul warming bowl. Togarashi, a Japanese red chili pepper blend, is perfect for spice lovers. Similar is the chili bomb power up, a paste made with a blend of
The Chicken Soyu house bowl.
quaint counter that the process took “from break down….to service,” which makes the food served truly a “labor of love.” For those of you that have never tasted ramen, it is a distant cousin to pho, but with heartier flavors and more featured ingredients. The best way to attack in order to avoid wearing the broth on your face, is to take the duck spoon that comes on the side and, using your chopsticks, you fill it up with a piece of each item floating in the broth. Once full, you dunk the spoon in the broth to gather up as much umami juice as you can. I would also recommend pairing one of the five different sakes or three different beers with your meal—as if the bowl of brothy deliciousness was not already going to warm your belly enough. Truly any choice you make will pair perfectly as a cold accompaniment to the comforting meal. The Vegan Miso begins with the creamiest miso broth I have ever slurped up, making the broth much lighter in color than most miso broths. The bowl is layered with a heavy hand with ramen noodles, chunked tofu, bok choy, bamboo shoots, and shiitake mushrooms, each ingredient more tender than the last. Even though this is a vegan dish, you will not miss the meat at all. The miso broth is so hearty that the texture is reminiscent of a peanut butter sauce, and the noodles are hearty as well, thick yet delicate with an umptious chew.
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The tofu easily dissolves on your tongue, and the roasted mushrooms add a meatiness to the dish. Finally, the bok choy brings a much needed brightness to the cozy dish. Chef Bishop explained that the store is currently “making the ramen noodles in house… and going forward would like to make all of the noodles served.” As for the ramen noodles, “they are vegan...made with just water and flour.” Next on the list of house bowls is the “classic ramen,” says Brad, or Pork Tonkostsu, which traditionally features ramen broth that is created using pork bones, among other things, and served with pork belly, also known as Chasu. Akedo’s version comes with all the required authentic items—a soft boiled egg, shiitake mushrooms, mayu oil, and those same hearty ramen noodles I mentioned before. This dish has a bit more kick, which is surely welcome with Asian cuisine, and overall tastes deeply of umami with a subdue flavor of salt. The shiitake mushrooms bring earthiness to the bowl, and the drizzle of mayu oil and black garlic oil add a hint of smoky garlic flavor. Chicken Soyu is the third and final house bowl. Soyu stands for the Soyu (or soy) broth that could be considered the leading lady in this dish. The star itself, the ultra-tender chicken that would taste just as delicious on its own. Paired with the deeply savory soy
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chilis is still a fiery choice but with a bit more citrus and salt added in. Another bomb is the umami power up, which is a concentrate hit of six flavors of food. For those a little less daring, and maybe more traditional, Wakame may be more your style; it is a sweet edible seaweed. Similar to wakame is the option to add nori to your bowl. Most people have tasted this edible seaweed strip when eating sushi. Let’s not forget the bamboo shoots, leek hay, and green onion; all bright and earthy punches to consider as additions to your meal. For the extra hungry, you can also double your protein, which is a great option considering how quickly you will inhale the decadent pork or chicken. SRG Akedo Ramen Bar 912.236.5737 1 West Victory Drive. www.elcoyotesav.com/ramen
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2018
at Totally Baked
Noble Fare’s owners open a neighborhood sandwich shop STORY & PHOTOS BY MARIA WHITEWAY
SAVANNAH IS TRULY the biggest small town. Sure, for tourists visiting may seem like there is so much ground to cover, it may even seem overwhelming to some, but for those of us who live here, this town is full of familiar faces and spaces. This is especially true in the restaurant business. Over time, I have come to recognize and make connections with chefs and owners who play a role in multiple restaurants in our city. Restaurateurs seem to systematically open a new joint every few years, building their brand and making an investment in Savannah’s food market. If a new eatery is opening, there is a high probability that it is from a well-known (Savannahian) restaurant group. So when my husband told me about Totally Baked, a deli that shares the same quaint neighborhood as Crystal Beer Parlor and Noble Fare, I wasn’t too surprised to find out that owners Patrick and Jenny McNamara of Noble Fare owned the shop. The McNamaras have successfully owned and operated Noble Fare for just over 10 years. The locally inspired fine dining restaurant is just off the beaten path, sealing it as one of the bestkept secrets in the neighborhood. The couple, which are originally from Cleveland Ohio, landed in Savannah after Jenny’s parents retired here. Patrick went to culinary school at Johnson & Wales
One Love: Ciabatta, warm spinach, gooey brie, crisp apple, zippy red onion and scratch-made honey Dijon dressing.
Great Dane: Roast beef, Havarti cheese, blue cheese crumbles, sliced red onion, lettuce and horseradish cream on marbled rye.
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University in Charleston and two fell in love with the Lowcountry. Trust me, we all share the same sentiment. Noble meaning Patrick and Fare, Jenny, they put their heart and soul into their first restaurant. Then, 10 years later, in October 2017, the McNamaras opened Totally Baked, a modern to-go deli concept they have dreamt about for years. “Totally Baked was something Pat and I talked about even before Noble Fare. We have a slew of concepts in a notebook that I’ve had for 20 years. All of things that we want to do in our life. Noble Fare was on that list, as Noble Fare. Totally Baked was on that list too,” Jenny shares. For the last 10 years, Jenny told me that they have been battling the stigma of being too fancy. While that is not a truth for the McNamaras, they brought Totally Baked to the neighborhood as an upbeat and laidback soup, salad, and sandwich shop. Given that Patrick helms the kitchen as the only chef at Noble Fare, Jenny has taken the reigns over at Totally Baked. Being only 469 feet away from one another, the two businesses keep the couple busy. “I always say, ‘I’m a wife first, mother second and I’m a business owner third.’ I can’t say which is more important at a certain time. Those three things are very important to me,” Jenny explains.
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The vision for weather and JenTotally Baked is for ny’s mood (think on-the-go patrons to gazpacho). have down to earth, “We were in here good quality sandsweating the other wiches. In my opinday, I decided ‘it’s ion there is nothing chilled soup time,’” more satisfying than laughs Jenny. a hearty toasted Since Totally sandwich, piled Baked has become high with layers of Jenny’s second full cured meats, melted time gig, she chose cheese, crunchy to imbue it with eleveg and smears of ments of her past. sauces. Born and raised At Totally Baked in Africa, Jenny playful names like adorned the walls Meathead, Italian with a teal design Stallion and Little that is reminiscent Easy emulate the fun of African patterns. Husband and wife and unique ingreFrom the natural duo Patrick and Jenny dients that make up cork dining bar to McNamara (pictured) each ‘wich. open and operate Noble the weaved hanging Take the Great baskets a sense of Fare and Totally Baked. Dane, named after Africa and memories it’s large size and Danish ingrediof her grandfather a held between ents. This is the type of sandwich its four walls. that takes two hands and a wide Totally Baked is open until 6 mouth. Medium rare roast beef, on Tuesdays and 4 on other weekHavarti cheese, blue cheese crumnights, so the McNamaras offer bles, sliced red onion, crisp letTV dinners for those patrons who tuce and house-made horseradish want dinner to go. This concept cream are mounted on thick slabs started before they were married of toasted marbled rye bread. It’s and has been written in their every bit as creamy and fresh as it notebook of concepts for years. is meaty and substantial. TV meals have gone over well at The One Love sandwich Noble Fare, so the couple brought though, captured my heart and them to the deli. Paleo meals like caught me off guard (as love somestir-fry chicken or Italian dinners times does). Ciabatta bread, fluffy of rigatoni pasta with goat cheese in the center and crusty on the and sweet sausage are offered to outside, swaddled warm spinach, take home. gooey brie, crisp apple, zippy red “We are living our dream. onion and scratch-made honey Everything we do is all out of love. Dijon dressing. It was always about love,” Jenny This sandwich had me so gushes about her and Patrick’s enraptured that I did not even restaurants. realize it was meatless (for all In reference to opening a new you vegetarians out there). As eatery, the McNamaras will not the sweet yet punchy dressing be waiting 10 more years. Jenny dripped down my wrists, it was tells me, “Another one will be love at first bite. coming…we are going to go all out Want soup with your sandwich? and do another one quick.” SRG Deep pots of homemade soups like Creamy Tomato or Chilled Totally Baked Cantaloupe and Mango with cay912.777.7782 enne pepper are prepared daily, 348 Jefferson St. changing based on the season, totallybakedsavannah.com 23
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2018
HARPER’S:
Monster milkshakes to mudpie delights
The Chocolate Peanut Butter Bust Monster Shake.
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STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY SOME STICKY DAYS, it seems the only way to truly cool off from the Savannah sun is seek out something cool and refreshing. Luckily, there’s a new kid on the block to help chill you down: Harper’s Desserts on the islands. By no means are the owners of Harper’s new to the neighborhood; they have been running local favorite and classic Flying Fish Bar & Grill. Co-owner Robin McMahon “has always been in charge of the Flying Fish dessert menu and was committed to offering unique desserts that were not mainstream,” Chris McMahon, marketing director of Flying Fish, tells me. So when the space for Harper’s came available right next door to Flying Fish, the owners seized the opportunity. Owners Mike and Robin named to store after their three year old granddaughter, Harper, who I’m told by Chris often tells people about “her shop next door.” On deck are 24 different flavors of cold. refreshing ice cream offered by Harper’s. The owners have included everything from classics like chocolate, cookies and cream, mint chocolate chip, and vanilla to more unique creations like Jolted Cow and Yellow Cake. Of all the crazy flavors, most popular with the kids have been the “Cotton Candy and Superman flavor ice creams,” Chris says. Generally, the most popular ice cream flavors have been the Jolted Cow and the Blueberry Cheesecake. The Jolted Cow is a java flavored ice cream base that comes swirled with sticky caramel and chewy soft brownie chunks, which cut through the bitter bite of the coffee. The coffee flavor is not too strong, and it coats the mouth with a the creamy sweet flavor of brew before your tongue finds a fudgy chunk of decadent brownie.
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As for the Blueberry Cheesecake, the tangy and divine ice cream base is jammed full of the flavor of cheesecake and swirled with an alarming amount of blueberry. The star of the show at Harper’s, and what definitely makes them unique, is their wide assortment of Monster Shakes. The term monster is almost an understatement. These milkshakes are served in a large mason jar rimmed with anything from chocolate to breakfast cereal, then topped with things such as a moonpie, an entire slice of cheesecake, oreos, fruit, and so much more. I was lucky to try (and unable to finish by myself due to the overwhelming portion) the Chocolate Peanut Butter Bust Monster Shake. To create this bad boy, Harper’s blends their chocolate peanut butter ice cream with milk and Reese’s pieces. The dreamy creation is poured into a jar rimmed with chocolate and topped with nutter butters, Reese’s candy, whipped cream, and crushed peanuts.
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Velvet Cake, which “has quickly become one of our most popular desserts in just a few weeks,” Chris says. Instead of an entire cake or a slice, this speciality is individually portioned into your very own mini cake. Round airy layers of tasty red cake are smeared with luxurious satin cream cheese buttercream frosting. Another beautiful dessert option is the Reese’s Pie — a creamy peanut butter center lays atop a crumbly chocolate crush for this slice. Creamy, crunchy, salty, sweet, this dessert has it all. Also extremely popular as a dessert offered at Harper’s is the Mississippi Mud Pie, which is “Robin’s recipe,” explains Chris. Again featuring a chocolate crust, instead this pie has a chocolate mousse-like filling and is topped with a velvety chocolate ganache. Harper’s also offered the classic beach side pie, Key Lime, and hopes to feature “a peach version of the pie, which we think will be a great summer dessert,” boasts Chris.
Reese's Pie
The milkshake fills your mouth with the creamy flavor of peanut butter, and as you continue to sip the thick drink chocolate hits your palate next. Surprisingly enough, it was not until Harper’s featured their Shamrock Shake that the monster shakes took off. As you guessed, the popular dessert is only available during Savannah’s favorite holiday season. Harper’s Desserts does not just offer ice cream, they also have a wide assortment cakes and pies. New to the dessert menu is a Red
True to form for a beach town sweet shop, shaved ice is featured on their menu. Let’s not forget the coffee, which is brewed from a Nescafé Milano System. You can order anything from lattes to americanos. Chris loves the coffee and, as he explains the system to me, he says they have “an espresso roast with a deep coffee flavor...it is great on its own or as a base” for something else. The cherry on top of this sundae is: If you eat next door at Flying Fish, Harper’s will hand deliver anything you order right to your table. If you have yet to have the chance to sample the-out-ofthis-world flavors of Harper’s, I suggest you get down there now. Although the store opened in December 2017, you can expect a grand opening party coming very soon. SRG Harper’s 912.349.4479 7806 E. Hwy 80. harpersdesserts.com
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COHEN’S RETREAT:
staying true to the Lowcountry, which Chef does very tastefully (and tastily too). Most of the ingredients are sourced locally from places such as Canewater Farms, then prepared in-house. Working with Chef Herrington to create and pair Cohen’s specialty cocktails is Nikki Davenport. Her creation, Romesmary’s Revenge, is an ideal light and refreshing start to dinner. Silver tequila, Cointreau, rosemary simple syrup, soda water, and fresh lime are all shaken together. A sizeable stem of rosemary garnishes the tall glass, which allows the effervescences of club soda to mix with the floral herb and hit your nose as you take in the airy refreshment. The first course was an Artisanal Bread Board, the bread sourced from local and loved Auspicious Baking Company that featured two types of bread—tomato jam and pork rillette—alongside sweet compound butter. A rillette is simply a rustic pate. This start to the meal embodied Chef Herrington’s approach
NEW CHEF, SAME HIGH STANDARDS STORY & PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY IT WAS only last year that I was sampling Chef Will Herrington’s menu at Kitchen 320, so I was excited to learn he had transitioned his career to a new location. After 16 years of working in various kitchens, this past May, Chef Herrington decided to transition his career again, moving away from a hotel setting and into a more artful and creative space— Cohen’s Retreat. As their new Executive Chef,
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Herrington told me he loved the place as soon as he walked in, which is easy to understand with a place as beautiful and inspiring as Cohen’s Retreat. Chef Herrington kept a few menu items that were extremely successful on his last list, including his Field Peas and Hoe Cakes and Blue Crab Grit Cakes. “Our play on how to eat a crab cake has been a hit since it was put on the menu,” he explained. The idea behind his menu is
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to food: fun and approachable. I would compare the combination to a deconstructed barbeque pork sandwich. The tomato jam, sweet and slightly spicy, acted as the barbeque sauce, while the pork was shredded and tender with the appropriate amount of smokiness. Transitioning to the new restaurant, Chef Herrington gained Cohen’s Lang Smoker which has inspired him to be even more creative with his food. Speaking of the smoker, he explained how he created the pork: “When you do a pork rillette you want to braise it, so I decided why don’t we braise it inside of the smoker and let some of that smoke feed in to create a smoky pork rillette.” Keeping things light, a Watermelon Salad was next up for me. The playful twist for this plate was the addition of pickled blueberries which had a flavor reminiscent of a sticky sweet reduced balsamic. The blueberries acted to balance the sweetness of the ripe juicy watermelon and the
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peppery arugula, fresh mint, and earthy basil. Next came Smoked Wings— four to be exact. Pecan wood smoked chicken wings are lacquered in Cohen’s BBQ Sauce and served with their own house pickles. The overall flavor, smokiness, sweetness, saltiness, and fatness, was well balanced, a difficult task to achieve while keeping the skin of a wing crispy. I found myself devouring these wings like a man watching football with no concern for any manners a southern lady is supposed to display during a meal of multiple courses. The Fisherman’s Stew was unlike any seafood dish I have tried in a town ridden with saltwater fare. A deconstructed version of stew, the work of art was served on a plate and consisted of a thick tomato sauce, firm okra, pungent fennel, Carolina gold rice, sweet local shrimp, and a delicate market fish. Flounder was the market fish they day I visited. Each element worked together to taste as though the dish had been stewing for days. Despite this, Chef Herrington managed to keep the tomato flavor fresh,
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
adding an acidic lift to the heartwarming porridge. The secret that brings a deepness to the composed dish is the addition of shrimp stock, made in house, that is added during the cooking process. “We are so close to the water, it is easy,” said Chef Herrington in explaining his approach to the dish. He further explained that Cohen’s sources locally from Dubberly’s Seafood. The recommended pairing for this dish is “Nikki’s take on a Sazerac, which is a big hit with our guests. Her twist is to use basil simple syrup that really emphasizes the herbal notes of the cocktail,” Chef Herrington told me. Next, Chef Herrington proudly presented his Barbeque Lamb Ribs, explaining ,“They are everything you love about pork and then we just take it up a little bit.” Like everything else on the menu that is smoked, the ribs were not heavy handed in the amount of smoke that was allowed to permeate the red meat. The result was a delicate fall off the bone meat with an umptious, fatty, and well-seasoned bark.
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As I chomped down on the first rib, the bone slipped right out of the meat leaving me to eat what remained with my fingers. The jelly to the peanut butter of this entree is Chef Harrington’s braised collard greens, which were fork-tender and sweet, just like the best of New Year’s Day. Because lamb ribs are much more fatty than most others, the plate was served with pungent vinegary pickles ideal for cutting through the richness of the meaty dish. It says a lot about a Chef if he or she can deliver an end to a meal that is just as memorable as the beginning. It was terribly difficult to stop eating the dessert, a bread pudding made with Auspicious bread, even though I had filled up on the four prior courses. By cooking and serving the 27
gargantuan proportion in its own cast iron skillet, every single edge had a crunchy exterior yet the center remained delicate. Apples, cranberries, and cinnamon were intertwined with custardy chunks of bread then finished with a house made caramel sauce. All of the flavors combined deeply warmed the soul, and the addition of cinnamon reminded me of the buttered oven baked cinnamon toast my mother used to make for breakfast. The only thing that could’ve made the dessert course better? A giant glass of ice cold milk to wash it down. SRG Cohen’s Retreat 912.355.3336 5715 Skidaway Rd. www.cohensretreat.com
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