restaurantguide Savannah
CONNECT SAVANNAH | SPRING 2018 EDITION
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.com k c a h s b a r c .the w w GA w , d • n 7 a 5 l 8 s I 9 . e 6 T y be 912.78 • d R k c o amm H l l i t s E 0 4
22 SQUARE RESTAURANT AND BAR AT ANDAZ SAVANNAH 14 Barnard St
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Open for Breakfast & Dinner
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912.233.2116
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Contents
restaurantguide Savannah
Spring 2018
CONNECTSAVANNAH.COM 1464 East Victory Drive Savannah, GA 31404 912-238-2040 GENERAL MANAGER Chris Griffin EDITOR IN CHIEF Jim Morekis CONTRIBUTORS Lindy Moody Maria Whiteway Jim Morekis ART DIRECTOR Brandon Blatcher
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GRAPHIC DESIGNER Loretta Calhoun ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Jay Lane Nicole Moore DISTRIBUTION Wayne Franklin CONTACT Sales: 912-721-4378
A Morris Multi Media Publication
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ON THE COVER Fox and Fig Cafe Photo by Maria Whiteway
6 22 Square 8 Five Oaks Taproom 12 Husk 16 Prohibition Savannah 20
20 East End Provisions 4
The Deck is a casual beach bar serving made-from-scratch plates using fresh, flavorful ingredients. Perfect for diners of all ages and appetites. Located in the sand on Tybee beach. RE-OPENING MARCH 2018.
404 B UTLER AVE. • T YBEE I S LA ND, GA • 9 12.786 .4745
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
22 Square:
Sustainability with sizzling taste STORY AND PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
When Executive Chef Chris
Cummer tells you that the produce used at the Andaz Hotel’s 22 Square is locally sourced, you would never guess what he actually means is that it is partially sourced from the roof of the hotel in downtown Savannah. And in my short visit to the quaint yet trendsetting restaurant, I was lucky enough to have Chef Cummer take me to the rooftop garden and show me what he has been growing for his menu as of late. Some of his current bounty included carrots, beets, and many other winter vegetables. Every morning the Chef “waters his garden and drinks his coffee”; he says it’s his “zen time.” Savannah’s 22 Square is one of few restaurants in the city that practice both sustainable sourcing and cooking. And it may be the only restaurant that “takes the leftover restaurant scraps, sends them off to a compositing company, then buys the compost back” to be used in the rooftop garden, explains Chef Cummer. Their mission to for eco-viability should not deter you but rather pull you in to try the straightforward food cooked with the highest level of ingredients. The restaurant aims for a menu change at least four times per year, but always available on the menu are the Fried Green Tomatoes. As a Southerner, I have tried more fried green tomatoes than
Above, the Fried Green Tomatoes with Georgia shrimp. Below, the truffled Shrimp 'n' Grits.
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there are gnats in July, so I can tell you with the utmost confidence that these tomatoes are close to perfect. Three thick, golden fried green tomatoes are served with firm rosy coastal shrimp, deeply green wilted kale, and a creamy robust chipotle romulaude sauce. The thick crunchy corn flour batter is spattered with spices and herbs that are dried by the restaurant to ensure the flavor is as good as it can be. Buttery, meaty Georgia Shrimp add a hint of sweetness to balance the creation. And although you would expect the chipotle remoulade to carry a ton of heat, the pepper’s fruity flavor is front and center. Straightforward and first-rate is how I would describe this dish, and simple deliciousness is loved in the South. However, instead this is a Southern dish that “didn’t even start in the South,” and for his version Chef Cummer created the recipe while cooking in both Louisiana and Texas. When the Chef moved to Georgia he kept using the recipe because he “really loved it,” but he added Georgia Shrimp and wilted kale. The recommended drink pairing is a cocktail called the Pink Lady, which according to bartender Billy Robyn “is a popular seasonal drink.” The addition of egg whites gives this lemon and grenadine based drink a creamy mouthfeel. Also available on the normal menu is another Lowcountry favorite, the Truffled Shrimp and Grits. Yes, truffled Shrimp and Grits. I ask the Executive Chef what sets his shrimp and grits apart from everyone else, and he simply says, “the ingredients.”
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You see, you don’t have to overcomplicate a dish when you have great ingredients and a deft hand. But let’s be honest: the addition of truffles and pork belly doesn’t hurt the cause. The portion is not shy and is served the way it should be in a cast iron dish. Floating atop a sea of coarse ground Logan Turnpike Mill’s grits comes a heap of vivid pink Lowcountry shrimp intermingled with velvety pork belly and softened leeks. I agree with Chef Cummer’s opinion that the leeks “add brightness” to a pretty rich dish. As for the grits, these are ones any Southern grandmother would be proud of because they are cooked perfectly and seasoned carefully by a knowledgeable hand. The leeks add a wink of sharpness while the truffle elevates the dish beyond that of customary Southern dish. The pairing for this masterpiece is the Maximilian Afari, a house cocktail available with tequila or mezcal that is then shaken with punt e mes, elderflower, and lemon, a punchy cocktail ideal for cutting through the rich notes of the fried tomatoes. Soon to be included as part of the Historical Square Taste Experience, a food tour the restaurant participates in, is the Swine and Fowl, an entree that features both of the white meats. The recipe for the dish starts by braising everything together for two and a half hours, a process which gives makes the platter feel as if it is warming the soul. The base of the dish is wilted collards that are pulled together with onions and bacon, a classic way to cook the country green. Carefully placed on top of the gooey greens comes two hearty bone in pieces of chicken, and a thick slice of salty pork belly. The chicken has a lightly crisped skin encasing its juicy and tender meat. The chicken is not sourced from just anywhere, it comes from North Carolina and
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Savannah’s Original Authentic British Pub!
Six Pence Pub In The Heart of the Historic District
Chef Chris Cummer at the rooftop garden.
is never frozen or injected with antibiotics. As for the pork belly, it is pan seared before being served to ensure it is perfectly rendered. To finish the dish, a smear of vibrant orange carrot purée is added to the plate. The purée is earthy yet sweet, and tastes as if somehow the chef concentrated down only the delicious notes of the vegetable. You Just Don’t Want to Be Down, a bourbon forward beverage is one that should be paired with the Swine and Fowl. But get in quick because this seasonal drink, made with fresh apple juice, amaro, and pommeau de normandie, may not be available when the seasonal cocktail menu changes. Plans in the near future include a brunch menu, because “in a drinking town brunch is needed.” His vision for brunch service is for it to be “relaxed, sustainable, allow the Chefs to have fun, and the guest to be in no rush.” But his ultimate plan for the future of 22 Square is to have zero waste. SRG
Open 7 Days A Week 11:30 a.m. – Midnight Full Menu Served Until Midnight Happy Hour 5-7 p.m. Bar Open Until 2 a.m.
912-233-3156 / 245 Bull St. (Across From the Desoto)
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Five Oaks Taproom:
Taking care of the locals STORY AND PHOTOS BY LINDY MOODY
Chef Jose Rodriguez is working wonders at Five Oaks Taproom.
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You “have to make sure you take
care of your locals” is the Executive Chef of Five Oaks Taproom, Jose Rodriguez’s, outlook in approaching his menu. And when he is speaking of his menu, Chef Rodriguez doesn’t merely mean offering Mac and Cheese or Shrimp and Grits to Savannah’s traditionally Southern palate, he is also speaking about working with local businesses to source his menu. Five Oak’s Taproom is a beautiful and warm farm-to-table restaurant located within Hotel Indigo on Bay Street. This is not just any farm-to-table restaurant, and Chef Rodriguez can be thanked for that. Though his career started twenty years ago, his time at Five Oaks only began a mere ten months ago. Chef Rodriguez’s perspective on Southern cuisine doesn’t stop at the Mason-Dixon Line, as his inspiration is drawn from many of the places the Head Chef lived including Germany, Spain, Mexico, and even Ireland. So when he approached creating food that appeals to the particular palates of our Lowcountry natives, he infused the years of skill gained around the globe with products sourced no farther than 90 miles outside of Savannah. Just a few of his local sources include Savannah Coffee Roasters, Hunter Cattle Company, and Cane Water Farms. Ever evolving, the menu at Five Oaks has changed about “three times in two years," and Chef Rodriguez is “in the works of changing it again in March.” The innovation does not stop in the kitchen with Chef Rodriguez. Bartender Audrey O’Donnell told me, “the cocktail menu changes every week...the bartenders get together and each put in a couple of recipes” to feature on the cocktail menu. Her creation, for the week I visited, was the Zygat, a gin based toddy mixed with green
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
The adventurous Brie Crostini.
chartreuse, a French liquor, and zesty lime. The cocktail is light and crisp, an ideal pairing for delicate meat such as seafood or chicken. A second beverage that is refreshing and weightless, perfect for any sticky, Savannah summer day, is the Refresh. To make this concoction, the bar first creates their own cucumber gin by infusing the gin with fresh cucumbers. The drink is layered with the special gin, freshly squeezed lemon juice, creme de violette, then topped with bubbly soda water. The Refresh can be found anytime on their regular drink menu. The bar also “juices all of their own juices, and tries to use “everything fresh,” according to Restaurant Supervisor, Matt Butova. Beyond drawing patrons in with a constantly rotating specialty cocktail menu, the restaurant also offers a draft beer selection that changes three times a month. Service Brewery, Southbound, and Gold Coast Distillery are few of the local providers of the tap stock. As for food that’s available on the regular menu all of the time, you will definitely find the Loaded Fries amongst the other offerings. They are jammed full of cheese curds, bacon, braised
short rib, and beer cheese. The Everest-size mound has got to be enough to fill four people. Once your server places the piping hot entree on your table, the scents of bacon invade your nostrils. Resting at the very top of the peak of fries lies delicate shredded beef short rib that was braised for no less than four hours. Filling every nook and cranny of the pillowy hand-cut deep fried potatoes is a luscious sharp beer cheese and a sprinkling of coarse salt. And don’t forget the bacon! Because what are loaded fries without bacon? These fries are evocative of the bar food we all love, but, as to be expected from such a medaled Head Chef, elevated by using local Hunter Cattle Company grass-fed beef, which of course makes them a customer favorite. Beyond the regular menu, Five Oak’s features weekly specials, and one of the specials I had the pleasure of tasting was the Brie Crostini. This dish is the creation of Sous Chef Shane Smith who “wanted to have fun” with the dish, Chef Rodriguez explained after I inhaled all three. Layered on top of a lightly toasted round of golden brown sourdough comes a slice of velvety melted Brie cheese, sweet 9
2018
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
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The Loaded Fries are guaranteed to please.
yet tangy peach and cranberry compote, and vivid microgreens. The compote is made in house with mint, sugar, peaches, cranberries, and a dash of white balsamic for a little extra zest; and as it rests on top of the oozing cheese, you can see the chunks of meaty cranberries floating about. This dish is a light yet sophisticated plate that would please any palate, southern and northern alike. Soon to be featured on the menu, and Chef Rodriguez’s latest creation, is a ravioli so beautiful eating it almost feels like you are destroying the Mona
Lisa (but the flavor is totally worth desecrating history). The large rounds of braised short rib ravioli arrives at your table immaculately arranged on the plate, perched atop are prodigious shavings of fresh parmesan and a peppering of crumbled chewy bacon. Bacon and parmesan are both quintessential additions to add a pop of salt, without having to over-spice the dish. The spinach is prepared with a masterful hand, lightly wilted leaving it bright green and still readable as spinach. Inside each pillowy al dente pocket of pasta is the same 10
fork-tender beef that is used for the Loaded Fries, giving the dish a soul touching feeling. Tying everything together is a sumptuous buttery white wine sauce; because buttery-ness is next to godliness. As for the future, I know I will be going back to try a full meal featuring many more courses. As for Chef Rodriguez, he says that “they see great things happening. The team is really focused on really taking it to another level with the trends that are upon us. We look forward to giving locals and guests an unforgettable culinary experience with every bite.” SRG
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Husk is here! Latest iteration of Sean Brock’s foodways philosophy is open on Oglethorpe Avenue
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARIA WHITEWAY acommonconnoisseur.com
After long anticipation, the
The Husk Fried Chicken Skins with white barbeque sauce.
Fresh shucked oysters with an antique perfume bottle filled with house made mignonette, peanut horseradish and cocktail sauce.
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Hostess City of the South welcomes award-winning Husk, a restaurant birthed in Charleston that embodies true southern hospitality and honors regional fare in its traditional form. Helmed by James Beard award-winning celebrity chef Sean Brock and Eater Atlanta’s Chef of the Year Tyler Williams, Husk Savannah opened its doors on January 5. (Delays in the grand reveal were due to the historic snow-pocalypse that iced over Savannah previously.) While this snowfall may have made history, The Neighborhood Dining Group President David Howard believes that Husk’s opening has also made its mark in Savannah’s history through the restoration of the grandiose building located at 12 West Oglethorpe Ave. The once abandoned threestory dwelling in which Husk resides is rumored to possess paranormal activity, earning its place as one of the most haunted buildings in Savannah. The white Colonial was originally constructed in 1897 as a residence of Juliette Gordon Low’s cousin. Years later it became an Elk’s Lodge followed by a Montessori and Performing Arts School. In 2009 the building caught fire, causing substantial destruction. It was not until 2014 that developer Wakely Properties bought the building and began the restoration process. Over the last three years Husk has partnered with Wakely in order to revitalize the property to its original grandeur. The origins of Husk date back to 2010 when the flagship restaurant launched in Charleston.
TRY OUR NEW MENU
Opens 4:30 - 11PM 201 W. Bay St.
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912.236.4 440
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“Originally, we were going to open a Creole restaurant. After months of serious research, I decided to take the more ambitious route and start my lifelong journey of exploring the possibilities of Southern Food as a Region,” Chef Brock recollects. As a chef that honors and respects the historic roots of regional cuisine, Husk was named accordingly, “symbolizing the idea of protecting food and culture. The definition of husk is the protective outer cover of a seed.” Growing up in rural Appalachia, Brock was raised with this sense of reverence and connection to what was available, cooking and eating from the garden every day. Brock’s philosophy of food and a “sense of place” are the major contributing factors of Husk’s success. “The communal pride that comes along with a region’s cuisine is a very powerful thing,” Brock affirms. Following the acclaimed reputation of Husk Charleston, the brand expanded to Nashville, Tennessee, in 2013, Greenville, S.C., in November 2017 and now the heart of Savannah’s Historic District. Chef de Cuisine Tyler Williams joined the Husk Savannah team given his love of culture and new discoveries. Williams was born and raised in a small farming community outside of Lansing, Michigan, where the preservation of local ingredients and farm-totable principles were indoctrinated in him at a young age. This, coupled with his longstanding culinary career, brought him to our city. Williams brings “immense culinary talent and a true appreciation for preserving the relationships with local farmers, the land, and the ingredients that are essential to Southern heritage,” states Brock. The Neighborhood Dining Group intentionally established
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
The Neighborhood Dining Group President David Howard.
all Husk locations in historic buildings in order to preserve the structures similar to the way that they do the Southern Foodways. “Its very important that Husk feels like a cozy home to provoke nostalgia,” Brock enlightens. When entering the newly renovated building, diners are confronted with a straight shot view of the partially open kitchen. While the kitchen was refurbished in its original location, revamped essentials of a modern restaurant kitchen took the place of the once-1930’s commercial equipment. The first floor provides three intimate areas that are set up like formal dining rooms. Neutral tones, wood flooring, original fireplaces and floral period-style curtains evoke the homey aura that was intended. A wide stairwell, paced by broad landings leads upstairs to the second floor dining alcoves that echo the same southern home-style presence as downstairs. Past this area, a hallway leads to Husk Savannah’s most opulent space, the original ballroom in all its lavished splendor. Towering ceilings with cascading glitzy chandeliers overlook sleek horseshoe bar with leather back chairs. The walls are adorned with gold geometric designs and vibrant artwork created by former SCAD student Simon Cooper
Grilled Bear Creek Farm Beef with Beets and Fennel.
representing Savannah greats like Oglethorpe and the city’s initial grid layout. The third floor consists of an expansive wooden community table surrounded by windows that peer out into the streets of Savannah. It is here where ideas are made, probable supper clubs will convene and recent paranormal activity has been reported. When it comes to intentionality and vision, the Husk team not only conducted in-depth research regarding the original elements of the historic structure, but also the regional cuisine. Williams and Brock plan to impact this city’s food scene by “exploring the possibilities of Savannah’s Foodways and hospitality…only using regional ingredients and tireless research”. Williams will spearhead the menu development and food sourcing, utilizing only the peaky-est harvested products from local farmers, adhering to Husk’s philosophy to “showcase a depth of flavor that will transport diners to a time of greater food integrity, honesty, and purity”. Husk’s ever evolving menu changes relentlessly, relying on seasonal offerings. 14
“We put dishes together based on the products that walk in the back door every day. We have spent six months getting to know the farmers, fishermen and artisans of this region—ironically, they write the menu—we simply take their work and figure out a way to get it on a plate so their story can be told,” Brock reports. For now, only dinner is served, but brunch and lunch are in the near future. The grand opening menu boasted Husk classics like Fried Chicken Skins with white barbeque sauce and reimagined southern staples such as Lowcountry Shrimp and Hominy instead of grits. Inaugurate the meal with a selection of fresh-shucked oysters from Husk’s specialty raw bar. Brock explains that the raw bar will include aquatic bounty that “celebrates our relationships with all of the amazing people that work the waterways of the Lowcountry.” Distinct varieties of the bivalve were nestled in ice accompanied by an antique perfume bottle filled with house made mignonette. If spritzing on this piquant sauce does not tickle your fancy,
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dab on a bit of homemade peanut horseradish or pungent cocktail sauce. The Husk Fried Chicken Skins were nothing to pass up. These hearty full skin golden crisps had the crunchy flavor profile of fried chicken without the meat. Immerse them into the white barbeque sauce for a creamy yet zippy punch of vinegar and heat. Ask for more sauce, as this southerner’s ranch pairs with just about everything. The Anson Mills Hoppin’ John with duck confit and scrambled egg can be described as a southern take on a Korean Bipimbap bowl. Tender pulled duck and cracklings were topped with sweet Carolina gold rice, al dente beans and a rich egg mousse. The mousse was whipped like cream, lending an indulgent buttery egg flavor. The dish was topped with green whispers of Rafe’s Nebedaye. Moringa is a plant found in Africa, where it is known
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
as nebedaye, which translates to “never die”, due to its ability to grow in almost any climate or soil. This special ingredient is regarded as a super food. The dish as a whole embodied the comfort of warm familiar flavors with avant-garde preparation. For supper, order a side of Chestnut Cornbread with Georgia Cane Butter, as a tribute to a southern staple. The quick bread is served upside down in a small cast iron skillet, revealing its golden bottom. Given Brock’s passion for heirloom ingredients, Purple Ribbon sugar cane is utilized within the bread mixture and served alongside as pourable cloyingly sweet butter. This type of sugar cane almost went extinct from disease until purveyor Jerome Dixon solved the problem by cross breeding variations to make them resistant. Purple Ribbon sugar cane has since been resurrected and now its story can be told at Husk. SRG
2018
SERVING FRESH LOCAL SEAFOOD
7906 US-80, Wilmington Island 912-897-2009 flyingfishsavannah.com
LOCALLY OWNED SUSHI & JAPANESE FUSION RESTAURANT
VOTED BEST SUSHI & MOST AFFORDABLE RESTAURANT BY THE READERS OF SAVANNAH MAGAZINE! COME TASTE WHY!
202 E Bay St, Savannah | 912-201-1319 twocrackedeggscafe.com
513 E. OGLETHORPE AVE | 912.232.8222
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
2018
Prohibition Savannah Renowned restaurant/bar with Charleston roots moves in on MLK Jr. Blvd. STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARIA WHITEWAY acommonconnoisseur.com
Prohibition, the highly antic-
ipated throwback speakeasy restaurant and bar concept that originated in Charleston, opened its doors in Savannah this past October . As a neighbor to The Grey, Prohibition aids in expanding the food scene on MLK Jr. Boulevard. With its vintage-inspired cocktails as well as Southern influenced menu including elevated street food, refined pub grub and soulful dishes, Prohibition fits right in among the greats in our city. Prohibition Savannah is truly a collaborative effort among the original team in Charleston— operating partner James Walsh, partner Ray Burns, bar manager/ partner Jim McCourt, and Chef/ partner Greg Garrison. As natives of Ireland, Walsh, Burns and McCourt met one another in New York City, given its sizable Irish community. Having worked in the restaurant business together since the ‘90s and even living together for a time, the three men built a strong friendship in addition to an even stronger working relationship. When Walsh conceived the concept of Prohibition in Charleston, he could not imagine a better team than his Irish buddies. “McCourt was a huge part of
Beau Soleil oysters from New Brunswick, thick-cut housecured bacon and homemade potato gnocchi bathe in a light vermouth cream sauce and are finished with sweet pecan oil.
Prohibition Charleston’s creativity with cocktails. Then Burns came to Charleston, which was a massive feather in the cap, to make the place successful.” With their talents ranging from entertainment and hospitality to mixology and business management, all they needed was a talented chef to seal the deal. They met Chef Garrison in Boston after dining at a restaurant where he was cooking. “They really enjoyed their meal, so we started talking about how we could work together,” Chef Garrison recalls. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Garrison, a NY native, was mentored by James Beard Award winners Wylie Dufresne, Grant Achatz and Ken Oringer. “Prior to joining the
Seared local grouper served with house made black truffle tortellini, sweet butternut squash puree, and warm mussels are capped with foamed buttery mussel sauce.
Prohibition team, I was the sous chef at Boston’s highly acclaimed French fine dining restaurant, L’Espalier. I credit a lot of my success as a cook to working with L’Espalier’s Chef de Cuisine, 16
Matthew Delisle, who taught me how to express myself through my food.” In 2015, Garrison moved to Charleston to take over the kitchen at Prohibition Charleston
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SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
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Pig Trotter Tots- These cheesy crispy tatter tots incorporate fatty braised pork with Parmesan cheese in a pork jus.
and since then, he has completely revamped the restaurant’s culinary program. “Garrison was a game changer on the food side of things. He has a tremendous pedigree,” Walsh sings his praises. Now, three and half years after opening Prohibition Charleston, the team chose Savannah for their next location given its rich history, emerging food scene and sprawling music culture. While the majority of the partners are of Irish decent, Prohibition does not identify as an Irish pub. Burns expounds, “We are not trying to reinvent the Irish bar.” However, subtle Irish elements can be found throughout the establishment as a tribute to their culture. One nuance at the Savannah location is the traditional Irish drinking space called a “snug.” These private drinking nooks pay homage to the Prohibition era as well, given that speakeasies often had similar secluded cubbies. One other understated yet obvious nod to their Irish heritage is that Prohibition prides itself in having the largest selection of Irish whiskeys in the Southeast. Prohibition Savannah’s renovated space transports patrons
back to the 1920’s era with its wood paneled walls, crimson floors, exposed brick, tufted horseshoe booths, and rustic golden glow. From the aged bourbon barrels stacked in the front windows and the halved barrels serving as planters outside to the wall of liquor bottles lining the bar and shelves, subtleties of alcohol’s significance can be found throughout the space. McCourt, the beverage director, devised a classic cocktail menu with timeless elements to embody the Prohibition era motif. For instance, the Pistachio Fizz is based off of a traditional cocktail from New Orleans. The pistachio syrup is made in-house and is mixed with egg white, cream, Beefeater 24, and Faretti biscotti. The libation is shaken vigorously causing the eggs and cream to froth, then is hit with a splash of soda to add sparkle to the creamy sip. The Ballysillan cocktail is a riff off the NYC modern classic called the Penicillin. The original recipe had two different scotches that were swapped out for Irish whiskeys. This Irish version has Black Bush Irish Whisky, honey and muddled ginger. Then
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Connemara peated single malt Irish whisky floats on top for fragrant smoky and peaty notes. While the atmosphere and drinks may lure people in, the food plays a large role in bringing them back. Given that Chef Garrison’s home base is in Charleston, he elected Chef Anthony C. Smith as the Chef de Cuisine at Prohibition Savannah. Chef Garrison devised Savannah’s menu so that it would appeal to a wide variety of diners and Chef Smith executed Garrison’s vision with precision. “You can come in and have a big meal with a large group, an intimate dinner, or snacks at the bar. Savannah is such a vibrant town and I wanted the menu to match its personality.” For starters that are both communally hands-on yet sophisticated in presentation and flavor profiles, check out the Smoked Beef Tartare and the Warm Oysters. The tartare is made with grass-fed strip loin from Brass
SAVANNAH RESTAURANT GUIDE
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When the glass dome is lifted tableside, a white fragrant fog evaporates into the air, revealing the fresh meat. House made dill chips scoop up the smoky beef. The Warm Oysters “started off as a play on Brunswick Stew and morphed into the warm oyster dish after trial and error.” A shallow bowl of Beau Soleil oysters from New Brunswick, thick-cut house-cured bacon and homemade potato gnocchi bathe in a light vermouth cream sauce and are finished with sweet pecan oil. This comforting yet light dish hits all notes of creamy and salty decadence. For someone who would rather have finger food with their beer, order the Pig Trotter Tots or the Street Corn. The cheesy crispy tatter tots incorporate fatty braised pig’s feet meat with Parmesan cheese in a pork jus. As for the Grilled Street Corn, tender grilled corn is slathered in garlic aioli and showered with
Chef Greg Garrison has been the Executive Chef at Prohibition Charleston since 2015 and is now ready to tackle Prohibition Savannah with the help of Chef de Cuisine Anthony Smith. PHOTO BY JONATHAN BONCEK
Town. The steak is hand chopped and dressed with a mixture of anchovies, capers, tomatoes herbs and egg yolks. The beef is smoked with mesquite inside a glass cloche to order.
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cojita lime cheese and espelette (pepper). If dinner is on your agenda, the Pan Seared Grouper is a must. Seared local grouper, crispy exterior and juicy center, is served with housemade black truffle tortellini and sweet butternut squash puree. Warm mussels are studded about the plate, capped with foamed buttery mussel sauce. Soon Prohibition Savannah will open for brunch and lunch, but as of this writing they’re working dinner and late night drinking crowds. As in Charleston, they plan to host weekly special events such as salsa lessons and local bands in their event space. Savannah is clearly attracting remarkable talent and heavy hitters in the food scene. The Prohibition partners say they are encouraged to see that other great restaurants like Husk are coming to our city. So let’s raise a glass, Savannah! SRG
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116 W Congress St, Savannah, GA 31401 912.234.5397 www.sorrycharliessavannah.com
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2018
Grilled Portobello and Artichoke Salad with arugula, roasted tomato, Bootleg Farms feta, local honey and a grilled baguette.
East End Provisions: STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARIA WHITEWAY acommonconnoisseur.com
The Gaslight Group has wel-
comed their newest brainchild, East End Provisions Neighborhood Kitchen & Bar, to the Savannah food scene. Owners Brian and Jennifer Huskey opened their fifth restaurant, this one on the east end of
Craft cocktails, brews and wines are served alongside farm to table meals.
Broughton Street in the historic reclaimed building of the former Juarez Mexican Restaurant. The 5 Spot, B Matthew’s, Blowin’ Smoke and Abe’s on Lincoln all have intentional branding, according to Adrienne Ritchey, General Manager of East
End Provisions. East End Provisions now has its own place in the restaurant collection, offering a more sophisticated appeal. “East End is not aiming to be 20
pretentious or unapproachable, but seeking to give a little more thoughtful and elevated cuisine as well as dining experience to our guests,” says Ritchey. Given its residential location
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Fresh oysters from the east and west coast are served with a pickled watermelon rind.
downtown, this is truly a “place for locals to come and feel comfortable. The price points are focused on repeat customers,” assures Ritchey. The Gaslight Group was even able to procure the former Southern Motors’ parking lot across the street. This way, locals who are not in walking distance can pop in and out without hunting for parking. The space boasts a full transformation, with neutral textures and tones that contribute to the upscale yet laidback atmosphere. The horseshoe bar in the front entryway hails patrons off the streets, seen from oversized windows scaling the facade. An intimate dining room with camel leather seating, tufted high-back velvet banquettes and exposed brick walls make for an elegant dining ambience. Downstairs, Lot 33 is a Prohibition-esque bar that awaits those who seek a brisk cocktail and lounging experience. Its brick laden floors and walls along with bourbon barrels, wooden high-tops and sleek sectional generate a speakeasy vibe. While classic cocktails set the tone, East End Provisions provides a farm-to-table experience
with their newly established lunch and dinner menus. Executive Chef Dan Milner and his loyal counterpart, Sous Chef German Ruiz, helm East End’s kitchen. The focus of East End’s cuisine is fresh, quality and seasonal fare. Milner describes the menu as “eclectic.” “The food is farm-to-table and as regionally sourced as possible,” Milner says. Milner and Ruiz are inspired by their heritage and experiences, developing dishes that range from Italian, Peruvian, Asian, and French origins. Milner, an Ohio native, grew up seeking a passion that “captured him.” “I have always loved to cook since 3 or 4, so I went to culinary school. It captured me. I realized I made a good choice.” After graduating from the Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts in Pittsburgh, Milner came to Savannah for an externship at The Westin. Ruiz, on the other hand, developed a passion for food given his artistic abilities. He spent a few years in Savannah, helping open Naan Appetit in Pooler and serving as a sous chef at Cohen’s 21
2018
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Duck breast with pulled confit duck leg and thigh, served alongside foie gras bread pudding and cherry demi-glace.
Retreat. About a year ago, the two met while working at Vic’s on the River and bonded. “It was our passion for food and respect for food. We have a similar skillset. We knew that someday we would run a place together,” says Milner. With that, the partners in crime recruited their most devoted former colleagues and formed the East End kitchen family. Milner beams, “It’s a lot of fun in my kitchen. But when it’s time to work, you gotta work. [The kitchen staff] are inspired, fresh, bright-eyed and want to learn.” The newfangled menu is allocated into sections for sharing, salads, flatbreads, sides and entrees. For a communal snack, nosh on East End Chicken Wings, sourced from Springer Mountain Farms. The wings are brined, dry rubbed and charred over a wood-burning fire. Don’t forget to dunk them into homemade roasted garlic ranch. Chef Milner also offers Oysters of the Day, alternating varieties from the east and west coasts.
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The crisp shucked oysters are served with pickled watermelon rind that lends a subtly sweet yet tart accompaniment to the sumptuous bivalve. For a light delight, choose the Jicama and Watermelon Salad. As a chef who practices a no-waste policy, Milner utilizes the flesh of the watermelon in this dish. Mixed greens are lightly dressed in citrusy sherry vinaigrette. Toasted almonds add a nutty flavor while feta cheese from Bootleg Farms adds tangy and savory notes. Another salad featuring this creamy, decadent cheese is the Grilled Portobello and Artichoke Salad. The meaty mushrooms are roasted with shallots and balsamic vinegar. The mushroom liquid is extracted and reduced with the balsamic, forming mushroom vinaigrette. Peppery arugula, roasted tomato, Bootleg Farms feta, local honey and a grilled baguette assist in balancing the rich acidity. Flatbreads like Caprese, with fresh mozzarella and DeRosa tomato gravy, Greek, with kalamata olives and tzatziki, and the
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HIRANO’S
on Habersham
SUSHI BAR AND TEPPANYAKI CASUAL DINING JAPANESE CUISINES 4426 Habersham St • 912.353.8337 • hiranoshabersham.com Executive Chef Dan Milner (left) and Sous Chef German Ruiz helm East End’s kitchen.
Banh Mi, with pickled carrots and wasabi aioli, embody the eclecticism of the menu. For those who do not want to share, an entrée that highlights the season’s bounty is the Hunter Cattle Pork. Tender medallions with a warm pink center are served with sweet potato hash, crispy roasted Brussels sprouts, thick studs of Savannah River Farms pork belly and fried sage, all encircled by a maple syrup demi-glace. With all that said, the dish that is worth ordering time and time again is the Duck Trio. Duck breast brined in cherry, star anise and cinnamon as well as pulled confit duck leg and thigh are served alongside foie gras bread pudding. With a warm custard-like center and golden exterior, the bread pudding is reminiscent of comforting holiday stuffing. Duck eggs, duck fat and duck
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liver were utilized to elevate the savory side, making it a truly crave-worthy star. The dish is accompanied by fresh succotash, pork belly and a tart cherry demiglaze to seal the deal. With a rich decadent meal, dessert should be light and refreshing. Chef Milner concocted a Frozen Cranberry Nugget for this reason. This scoop of frozen cream is filled with candied pistachios, almonds and honey, topped with macerated cranberries and cranberry jus. The seasonal treat hits all elements of sweet, salty, tart and creamy. With plans to change the menu every season, Milner and Ruiz are elated to have the opportunity to impact the Savannah food scene at East End Provisions. As the Gaslight Group continues to expand, they remain focused and deliberate with each of the restaurants they produce.
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wasabi Downtown
FAMILY OWNED JAPANESE & SUSHI RESTAURANT Happy Hour 4 - 6:30PM Monday Half Off Sushi 4:30 - 7:30PM Lunch 11 - 2:30 Mon-Fri | Dinner 2:30 - 11 wasabidowntown.com | 113 MLK Jr. Blvd | 912.233.8899