South africa 2020 (Part 3)

From deciduous forest and good sipping, we headed northeast across the country towards the bush and Kruger National Park. It’s a general mistake not to include a few days in the wilderness during a trip to South Africa, at least if it’s your first time in the country. We land at an airport about the size of one of the waiting areas among the terminals at Cape Town airport. It’s quite impossible to make out the airport staff until a man walks up to the blunt little board on the wall and manually updates the schedule of arrivals and departures with slips of paper. The road out to our accommodation is just as full of gravel and bumps as you can imagine, just on the way out to our accommodation we have time to see giraffes, baboons and zebras. Apart from the sudden presence of wildlife, the landscape is huge and it really feels like we are going right out into nowhere. Consistent with much else in South Africa, the accommodation we eventually arrive at provides yet another contrast in the form of low, wide buildings in fine stone materials with open plan layouts with modern furnishings and an overall luxurious feel where not a sign of civilisation can be seen as far as the eye can reach along the wide savannah and bushveld.

In addition to the public areas surrounding the site with classic facilities such as a pool, bar and restaurant areas and reception, the accommodation itself is spread out a short walk away in a lodge style. The paths are laid with wooden planks, some of which cross over into bridge parties, and apart from handrails are completely open to the wilderness. As newcomers, we are easily impressed when we see various wild ungulates roaming undisturbed in the walking paths between our accommodations and the main building. Something surprisingly easy to get used to. Washing in an outdoor shower overlooking the wilderness is a unique experience.

The safari tours usually take place in the early morning before the sun has risen or in the late afternoon. This way you always catch incredibly beautiful sunrises and sunsets. It’s time for our first tour which takes place in the afternoon of the first day. We are introduced to our guides and rangers and hop into two custom-built Toyota’s in jeep model with no windows or roof. It’s like sitting in a moving grandstand with front-row seats. We pull straight out into the bush and you quickly realise that what lurks around the next bend in the winding narrow space is a pure lottery. As if the thrill of sitting in a fully open car and knowing we’re visiting the home of some of the world’s most magnificent wildlife isn’t enough, the guide’s observations of the area also add something extra. By now the guide is multi-tasking, both driving the car and seeming to know every bush in the vast landscape, but also answering questions and telling us relevant whimsical information relevant to what we are seeing. Our ranger sits on his own throne on a seat in the front left, dangling his legs freely over one corner of the bonnet with only a rifle in his defence. We can’t decide if it’s insane, fascinating or both. A ranger’s job is basically to be our guide’s map reader, much like how a rally driver has a co-driver next to him. The only difference here is that ours sits on the hood to easily catch what’s easy to miss as a driver. The ranger is also in touch with colleagues moving around the huge area, scouting with eagle eyes to give us the best experience possible. We barely have time to be out for half an hour before we bump into hordes of hoofed animals such as antelope and gazelles. We also slip past a bunch of water buffalo at close range.

The highlight of the day comes after another half an hour when we become aware of a pride of lions stationed under a magnificent tree, where one of the lions has also climbed up presumably in search of prey. But there was nothing we could see, all that was left was a large feline in a tree. The lions inspire a special respect in us right away as you get a feel for how big they really are in real life.

Satiated and satisfied with the safari experience, the cars glide on into the beautiful sunset where we finally park in a slightly more open spot in the bush. Still in the middle of nowhere. Imagine this image: you’ve just stepped out of the safari vehicle and are looking out over shades of neon orange, pink and purple, while you watch your guide whip up a makeshift table on the bonnet and set out dried fruits, nuts and biltong (sun-dried meat). To complete the ritual, each person then mixes a sundowner which, traditionally, is always a gin & tonic. Nothing tastes more refreshing and feels so right to end the day with. On the way back the sun set and darkness settled over us, this doesn’t stop our Ranger from managing to catch an incredible bonus to the finish as we manage to slip up right next to a leopard that was out roaming quite openly along the small path. We are eventually escorted onto an outpost where we are dropped off in the dark to a path lit by small fires that leads to one of the most unforgettable dinners I have ever had. In the middle of the wilderness with a huge bonfire, long table and braai (South African barbecue over an open fire with charcoal and wood).

The next day we are up with the rooster to get the chance to see as much big game as possible. The day is a complete success and seeing lions, rhinos and leopards up close cheer you up better than any coffee in the world. We even got to see elephants drinking and playing down by a stretch of water at sunrise. The morning session ends with setting a table a bit in the same spirit as it did yesterday, but now we drink tea, coffee and hot chocolate which is perfect for the slightly cooler morning. Once back for breakfast, a herd of unconcerned wild boars drift around the small green area between the reception and the breakfast area.

We have an afternoon and morning tour left on our stay in the wilderness where we manage to see hippos, giraffes (who can pee for over 15 minutes, believe it or not), hyenas, zebras and much more. We were lucky and managed to see all of the big five and the only animal we missed was the cheetah. It’s an absolutely enchanting feeling to experience such large and beautiful wildlife up close in their natural habitat. We all leave our stay in the bush with completely new impressions and all agree that this is something everyone should have the chance to experience at least once in their lives. With this, we end our trilogy on South Africa. Ube nosuku oluhle!