PRESS SELECTS
FRANCE 12!€. BELGIQUE 13!€. LUXEMBOURG 13!€. ESPAGNE 13!€. GRÈCE 13!€. ITALIE 13!€. PORTUGAL CONTINENTAL 13!€. ROYAUME-UNI 10!£. SUISSE 17!CHF. CANADA 18!CAD.
NOVEMBRE 2016
LIBERTÉ, ÉGALITÉ, MIXITÉ - NOVEMBRE 2016
MIXTE
MIXTE N°17
LIBERTÉ ÉGALITÉ MIXITÉ CELINE BOULY VUE PAR WARREN DU PREEZ ET NICK THORNTON JONES
PARIS
▲ LA MAIN ARTISTIQUE Posséder en un seul geste des œuvres exclusives signées Cindy Sherman, Shirin Neshat, Barbara Kruger, Rachel Feinstein, Laurie Simmons, Mickalene Thomas et Wangechi Mutu, c’est possible. Encore mieux : les heureux propriétaires pourront exposer leur collection à leurs poignets. Disponible en cinquante incroyables exemplaires, les bracelets Charmed réunissent ainsi sept charms signés par sept des plus grandes artistes féminines du moment. Une FIAC de poche ! Charmed by Lizworks and Ippolita, édition limitée disponible sur www.ippolita.com
S É R I E “ F U N N Y FACE” P A R L I Z C O L L I NS, P. 104
SÉRIE “ÜTOPIA” PAR TILL JANZ, P. ! 130
LES LABORATOIRES DE L’UNIVERSITÉ CHALMERS, EN SUÈDE, ONT MIS AU POINT L’INVENTION QUE L’ON ATTEND DEPUIS SI LONGTEMPS!: L’ÉCRAN-PAPIER!! COMPOSÉ D’UNE COUCHE D’OR ET D’ARGENT RECOUVERTE DE POLYMÈRES, SOUPLE ET DE MOINS D’UN MICROMÈTRE D’ÉPAISSEUR, IL EST LE FRUIT DE LONGUES ANNÉES EN RECHERCHE FONDAMENTALE. QUESTION D’HIER!: PRÉFÉREZ-VOUS FEUILLETER LE MIXTE 100!% PAPIER OU 100!% DIGITAL!?
▲ AU KOTI-DIEN Dormir en Finlande sans jamais quitter Paris ? C’est le pari fou proposé par l’Institut culturel finlandais, qui installe six cabanes en bois ou “aitta”, lieux d’escapade tant appréciés des locaux, au cœur de son adresse du 5 e arrondissement. Les fanatiques du design finlandais s’y précipiteront pour découvrir ces micro-maisons signées par la très réputée Linda Bergröth, les néophytes en profiteront pour s’initier à la chaleur simple de la vie made in Suomi. De janvier à mai 2017. Plus d’infos sur www.kotisleepover.com, réservations sur airbnb.com
22
CHARMED BY LIZWORKS 18K GREEN GOLD, 190 X 30 MM, LIMITED EDITION OF 50 COPIES, AVAILABLE AT IPPOLITA.COM PHOTO: INES SEGOND-CHEMAÏ
THE CHARMS LIZWORKS AND IPPOLITA INVITE SEVEN FEMALE ARTISTS TO CREATE AN EXCEPTIONAL BRACELET
Contemporary art often finds inspiration in the world of textiles and jewelry. But in the case of Charmed, a project launched by Liz Swig and the jewelry house Ippolita, this time it is the jewelry that is relying on an artistic impulse and the style of each artist contributing to its creation. A regular patron of the world’s most prestigious institutions, such as the Whitney Museum of American Art, Liz Sig is also the founder of Lizworks, a platform that facilitates creative exchange between leading contemporary artists. After working with top names like Hiroshi Sugimoto and Jeff Koons, she is now teaming up with Ippolita Rostagno on a project involving seven of the most influential female artists working today, with each artist crafting a charm inspired by their work to create a unique bracelet (produced in a limited run of just fifty copies). Laurie Simmons, Shirin Neshat, Barbara Kruger, Cindy Sherman, Rachel Feinstein, Mickalene Thomas, and Wangechi Mutu have each designed one of the tiny objects that have adorned women’s bracelets for generations. Each one has offered her own take on the charm: Cindy Sherman’s golden egg explores the concepts of femininity and fertility, the crystal-encrusted mouth by Mickalene Thomas stands as a symbol of luxury, while Wangechi Mutu’s medallion reveals the duality of continents. Through these objects, the artists explore the concepts of femininity, memory, and beauty through the filter of their own personal vision. Imbued with an almost autobiographical sensibility, the bracelet becomes the vehicle of an intimate narrative embodied by each of these seven talismans. MAXIME DER NAHABÉDIAN
CHARMED,
I’M SURE Seven female artists were invited by art collector Liz Swig to create special charms for this one of a kind bracelet. Text by Anna Heyward
Clockwise (center bracelet): Laurie Simmons Wangechi Mutu Mickalene Thomas Rachel Feinstein Cindy Sherman Barbara Kreuger Shirin Neshat
The wearing of charms on the wrist goes back to antiquity, when people carried talismans to repel evil and bring luck. The modern charm bracelet extends this impulse into autobiography, with the ornament serving as decoration but also as a way to mark the milestones of intimate and emotional life. Particularly among girls and young women, it acts as a kind of diary: a chain, usually a silver or gold link, becomes the vehicle for symbolic trinkets—charms—each for a special purpose. Given or acquired to mark a significant moment in life, new charms are added and removed, so that wearers can alter their charm bracelets to express mood and circumstance. Liz Swig, founder of LizWorks studios, has worked with the New York jewelry-maker Ippolita to produce Charmed, a combination charm bracelet and work of contemporary art. To make it—in an edition of fifty, plus artists’ proofs—Swig called on seven prominent women artists to create a charm, a small talisman reflecting both their personal history and their aesthetic vision. Each of the seven artists—Rachel Feinstein, Barbara Kruger, Wangechi Mutu, Shirin Neshat, Cindy Sherman, Laurie Simmons, and Mickalene Thomas—designed a charm to hang with the others on an oversized Ippolita gold-link chain, the trinkets collectively telling a story of contemporary art. For Swig, the bracelet creates “a dialogue between the personal and professional.” Charms, she says, “are a form of communication,” a way for the wearer to communicate with the world: “The charm has been used by women to connect, share, and save memories from generation to generation. It is a form of love among women. This bracelet elevates a piece of jewelry to a piece of art.” The Pictures Generation artist Laurie Simmons is celebrated for photographs, often made by posing dolls and figurines, that explore the social roles of women. Her charm is an old-fashioned camera box standing on a pair of female legs. Simmons remembers, My mother wore a charm bracelet that told the story of her life. My father bought her a charm for every occasion—anniversaries, birthdays, and holidays—until the bracelet was filled. A bride and groom, a house, a car, a piano and three little ballet dancers representing me and my sisters . . . each had tiny little jewels or doors that opened to reveal little surprises. Twenty years ago I photographed my mother’s charm bracelet with a macro lens so I could remember every detail. When I was asked to make a charm it wasn’t a question of “What will I make?,” it was “Which charm shall I make?,” because I’ve thought about creating a charm bracelet for a very long time. Shirin Neshat’s charm, a hand, recalls the Middle Eastern hamsa or “hand of Fatima” amulet and refers to Neshat’s artwork Stories of Martyrdom, from her Woman of Allah series (1993–97). “I’ve always related to jewelry as an art form that gives women a unique sense of style and identity,” says Neshat. “It’s particularly meaningful to create a small charm that, in its modesty of scale, can be a fusion in between my artistic vision and my passion for jewelry.” Barbara Kruger’s works combine images from the mass media with sloganlike text to invoke familiar constructions of power and identity, consumerism and sexuality. Her charm riffs symbolically on notions of value and desire: on the front of a disk engraved with the words “liberty” and “e pluribus unum,” like a U.S. penny, and embossed with a presidential pair of heads, the
phrase “Money can buy you Love” is emblazoned in Kruger’s signature font; the back of the disk reads “charisma is the perfume of your gods.” “My charm plays with the ideas of desire, charisma, and value,” Kruger says. “It’s ‘on the money’ and attached to you.” Wangechi Mutu’s art incorporates performance, collage, painting, video, and sculpture to plumb layers of identity. She has created an ornament shaped like a traditional cameo, in pastel hues. The work externalizes a feeling of doubleness, with an illustrated collage of a feminine-looking bust, eyes, mouth, and facial features exploding to both the left and the right. Mutu explains, “I am aware of the complexity of being an immigrant—albeit one with visibility and voice. ‘Pretty double headed’ were the words I used to describe that feeling of being from two places, two mindsets, and two worlds all in one. It’s a privilege with a price to pay.” Cindy Sherman’s photographs of herself, costumed and made up in various roles, subvert the stereotypes of women found in films, magazines, television, and the culture at large. Her charm refers to another traditionally feminine form of jewelry, the portrait locket: a solid golden egg, it opens to reveal two contrasting self-portraits. For Sherman there’s something so comforting about collecting freshly laid eggs, each one slightly different yet sublime, to feel the weight and warmth of it in your hand. I’m amazed how anything lays an egg once in a while, much less daily. What a relief it must be when it’s popped out! And then we get to eat it! Unless it’s a golden egg. Then you can crack it open to look inside. And wear it around your wrist on a bracelet, a symbol of fertility and femininity—and now art. The pop-cultural references in Mickalene Thomas’s work touch on complex notions of gender and race and challenge common definitions of beauty. The charm she created, a pair of larger-than-life, jewel-encrusted blue lips, signifies sensual femininity, which she says she wanted to “gift . . . to the world.” Whimsical and fantastical, Rachel Feinstein’s charm, like her sculpture, draws on the iconography of the Baroque and Rococo periods of European culture, intentionally overplaying its search for sophistication. Feinstein remarks, I’ve always loved the sentimentality and femininity of wearing a charm bracelet. My own mother and grandmothers did not wear jewelry and I don’t wear jewelry every day but somehow I became aware of charm bracelets as a young girl just like my own young daughter recently has. Flora wanted to go shopping for her seventh birthday in April and chose a plastic rainbow-colored charm bracelet where one can choose different cute and girly charms like an ice cream cone, Dorothy’s red shiny shoe, et cetera. It instantly brought me back to my own childhood. And strangely within the month Liz approached me about her Charmed project. The charm bracelet honors the intimacy and narrative qualities of the work of these seven artists. A story as much as an ornament, Charmed is personal history become symbol. “To charm” is also to attract, and one of the characteristics of the charm bracelet, Swig says, is “the sound it makes,” a subtle but unapologetic jingling and tintinnabulation as the charms jostle and knock, intermingling on the wrist with the wearer’s motion as she moves through life.
W* Awards
LAURIE SIMMONS For her green gold, diamond and sapphire camera, the artist drew inspiration from her mother’s own charm bracelet
SEVEN ARTIST-DESIGNED CHARMS HANG FROM THE IPPOLITA BRACELET IN 18CT GREEN GOLD, $58,000, LIZWORKS.BIZ, IPPOLITA.COM
WANGECHI MUTU New York-based Kenyan artist Mutu’s green gold, rock crystal and printed resin charm explores themes of immigration and identity
SHIRIN NESHAT This green gold hand, complete with rock crystal and emeralds, is the Iranian-born artist’s first foray into jewellery MICKALENE THOMAS The rhinestone-encrusted lips in Thomas’ paintings inspired her green gold pout, complete with blue sapphires
RACHEL FEINSTEIN Drawing on her rococo aesthetic, Feinstein’s charm depicts a lady’s profile in white gold and enamel
BARBARA KRUGER A white gold coin with red enamel detailing plays on ideas of value and desire
CINDY SHERMAN Symbolising fertility and femininity, this green gold egg contains photographs printed on ceramic, with a hidden steel magnet clasp
BEST CHARMS ‘Charmed’ bracelet, curated by Liz Swig, with Ippolita Liz Swig of New York’s LizWorks is the architect of unlikely artistic collaborations with beautifully unexpected results. ‘Though a charm bracelet isn’t unexpected in itself,’ she explains, ‘a bracelet featuring creations from seven female artists is.’ Working solo, each artist had no idea what the others were creating, but the result is a ‘diverse dialogue between the women who would live together on the wrist’. This jangling conversation is brought to life in precious materials by Italian jewellery brand Ippolita.
∂
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTONY COTSIFAS PRODUCER: MICHAEL REYNOLDS WRITER: ELLY PARSONS
BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
∑
095
93WPR17FEB110.pgs 19.12.2016 17:36
Design TWO BOWLS, DESIGNED BY THE CAMPANA BROTHERS FOR LIZ SWIG, CREATE THE PERFECT VESSELS FOR ENJOYING OATMEAL
GET YOUR OATS Creative catalyst Liz Swig is on a mission to make oatmeal sexy PHOTOGRAPHY: MARKO MACPHERSON INTERIORS: LINDEN ELSTRAN WRITER: GEORGIA DEHN
OUT TO LUNCH (see box overleaf ) Contains Turkish apricots, cherry reduction, toasted sunflower seeds, toasted coconut, soba-cha buckwheat, golden milk, cordyceps mushrooms, schisandra berries, muscovado sugar, salt and pink peppercorns
MI A MI PREV01I7EW 2
098
∑
BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
93WPR17DEC133.pgs 26.10.2017 15:22
Design LIZ SWIG, ON THE CAMPANA BROTHERS’ ‘BOLOTAS’ ARMCHAIR, PHOTOGRAPHED IN OCTOBER AT HER HOME IN NEW YORK. ON HER WRIST IS A CHARMED BRACELET, WHICH SHE LAUNCHED IN
E
arlier this year, Liz Swig was taking time out after the Zona Maco art fair in Mexico City. An overarching theme at the fair had been transparency and reflection; and Swig, a collector and hard-driving creative entrepreneur, took a few days out in the resort town of Tulum to recover from a bout of flu and reflect. Here she was served a bowl of oatmeal at a little wooden table drenched by early morning sunshine. ‘That’s when it hit me,’ she says. ‘Oatmeal, done properly, can be a complete experience. I took a bite from that bowl and it was as good as anything I have ever eaten. It was the beauty of that single experience in Tulum that inspired me to go on a journey to disrupt how people view oatmeal. Right now it is perceived as a sturdy breakfast staple. I want to explore its potential and reposition it as an experience for any time of day. My goal is to make oatmeal cool and sexy.’ So Time For Oatmeal was established. It is the first culinary foray for Swig and her platform for creative partnerships, LizWorks. Swig’s operation has produced a limitededition line of eyewear in collaboration with Vik Muniz, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Paola Pivi, and an 18ct gold charm bracelet, Charmed (W*215), which featured contributions from seven female artists including Barbara Kruger, Cindy Sherman and Laurie Simmons. ‘I love the idea of taking something traditional and contemporising it,’ she says. The first stop on Swig’s quest to revolutionise oatmeal is this year’s Design Miami. She has partnered with Brazilian design duo Humberto and Fernando Campana to introduce Time For Oatmeal within a sensory environment that reimagines food as material, and material as food. The Campana-designed installation uses wood panels laminated in oats. Humberto suggests that he and his brother are ‘alchemists’. And this might be the biggest test of their powers of transformation. ‘It is a challenge to take something people don’t pay much attention to and shine a light on it, to invite them to see it another way,’ he says. Swig has also commissioned two series of limited-edition Campana Brothers bowls, creating the perfect vessels for enjoying the
LIZ SWIG’S TIME FOR OATMEAL DISHES 6:55am
GET THE HELL UP
Contains goji berries, pecans, freeze-dried raspberries, orange and lemon zest, toasted coconut, pomegranate molasses, cinnamon, muscovado sugar, vanilla bean and pink Himalayan salt
8:32am
BURN BABY BURN
Contains roasted almonds, freeze-dried blueberries, sesame brittle, lime zest, hemp seeds, chia seeds, maple syrup, cinnamon, goat milk powder, cordyceps mushrooms, salt and tonka bean
1:07pm
OUT TO LUNCH
See previous page
4:14pm
AFTERNOON DELIGHT
Contains dried plums, peanuts, tristar strawberries, dark chocolate chunks, dried baby banana, chaga mushrooms, muscovado sugar and Maldon sea salt
6:09pm
SWIPE RIGHT
Contains pepitas, toasted coconut, turmeric, vadouvan, kaf ir lime, Korean chili flakes, nutritional yeast, lime zest and salt
7:51pm
STAY IN TONIGHT
Contains cremini mushrooms, thyme, shallots, parsley, sunchoke chips, garlic, manchego, pecorino romano, nutritional yeast, truffle oil, salt and black pepper
00:00am HERE’S LOOKING AT YOU Contains Persian green raisins, kumquats, rose tea syrup, cocoa nibs, vanilla bean, collagen powder, tocos rice bran flour and pink Himalayan salt
daily ritual of eating oatmeal. An earthy form in terracotta comes in an edition of 250, while an ornamented version with animal and plant motifs, entitled ‘Lizbowl’, is being produced in an edition of seven, each entirely unique. Seven, for Swig, has always been an important number: ‘It is a number imbued with meaning – we have a seven day week and seven deadly sins – and whenever it feels appropriate to use that number I will.’ During Design Miami, a menu of seven Time For Oatmeal dishes will be introduced ‘to boost stamina, inspire brilliance, improve sex drive and cure ailments.’ Swig has worked with food editor, author and founder of Bureau X food consultancy Christine Muhlke, and nutritionist, chef and owner of West Village eatery Nourish Kitchen + Table Marissa Lippert, to create sample offerings for different times of the day. From the postworkout morning taste of Burn Baby Burn (containing freeze-dried blueberries, sesame brittle and tonka bean) to Stay in Tonight (with cremini mushrooms, parsley and pecorino), Swig is thrilled by how ‘completely scrumptious’ each taste is: ‘Stay in Tonight rivals any risotto you might prepare.’ ‘The response to this project so far has been one of huge excitement,’ says Swig. ‘I am convinced that we will change the perception of oatmeal. It can be what we eat at any time of day, even with a shot of tequila – the oatmeal spiked with turmeric, kaffir lime and Korean chili flakes is perfect for that.’ Oatmeal is certainly getting its ‘dance card’. ‘Tell me what other grain has been exhibited at an art or design fair,’ says Swig. ‘Quinoa has never been to Miami.’ lizworks.biz. The Time For Oatmeal collection will be showing at Design Miami, 6-10 December, miami2017.designmiami.com
∂
∑
BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
101
93WPR17DEC130.pgs 26.10.2017 15:18
welcomes … 1
2
Lizworks schafft unvergleichlichen der sich als Kunst zum Tragen versteht
S CHMUCK,
AM PULS DER ZEIT Die Kuratorin und Designerin Liz Swig in ihrem New Yorker Apartment
ie Namen lesen sich wie das Who’s who weiblicher Ausnahmekünstlerinnen: Cindy Sherman, Catherine Opie, Mickalene Thomas, Rachel Feinstein. Liz Swig vereint zeitgenössische Kunst mit Schmuck und verschiebt dabei Grenzen.
D
S CHMU C K U N D KU N S T: DAS E RG E B N I S D I E SE R VERBINDUNG IST IMMER AUSSERGEWÖHNLICH …
Ich bin ein Freigeist und möchte mich im ständigen Dialog befinden. Es war mir ein Bedürfnis und eine große Ehre, mit sieben zeitgenössischen Künstlerinnen an dem Projekt Bettelarmband arbeiten zu können. Das Resultat ist intim, tragbar und dreidimensional. Ich könnte nicht glücklicher sein. WIE E N TS TA N D DI E I D E E Z U K AM E E N?
Selfies und Instagram sind mittlerweile Kultur. Diese Art des modernen Porträtierens in ein historisches Medium einzufügen, finde ich sehr aufregend. Für die Kameen von Cindy Sherman wählten wir bewusst Motive aus ihrem Account, um diese Schnittstelle zu unterstreichen. Catherine Opies Arbeit war gleichsam eine Offenbarung für dieses Projekt, weil sie begann, ihre behutsame Fotografie in ovaler Form darzustellen. Also eine fotografierte Kamee, die wir wiederum in eine echte Kamee verwandelten.
28 MADAME Oktober 2019
3 1 Ohrringe „Mary“ von Catherine Opie 2 Kamee „Baby“ von Cindy Sherman 3 Bettelarmband aus Gelbgold, mit sieben Charms, limitiert auf 50 Stück. Alles von Lizworks, Preise auf Anfrage
FOTOS: Bulgari-Photography by Mauro Fabbio (2); Jacques Giral (I); Marko MacPherson Photography (I); Origin Studios Photography (I)
KREATIV LIAISON
OUR 48 FAVORITE FAMILIES N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 9
The
$400 MILLION CALIFORNIA HORSE FEUD LAURA DERN
CAN MONEY BUY YOU
SLEEP?
NEPOTISM A User’s Guide
ITALIAN ARISTOS HE
T&
C
I N CO R PO R AT I N G CO N N O I SSE UR
T
How to Dress the Part
HYPOCRISY
CM G 08833
QUIZ
“I Will Not NOT Be Rich!”
NOVEMBER 2019
LAURA DERN WHY SHE’S THE WOMAN OF THE YEAR
J E W E L RY C O M M A N D M E N T S
5 GO Deep
A
s far as ecosystems go, coral reefs are among the most diverse in the world, teeming with tiny, colorful fish, seahorses, and anemones. Chances are rose-cut and VS-grade diamonds are not swimming among them, but therein lies the wonder of inspiration. Lugano Diamonds’ one-of-a-kind Coral Reef cuff is clearly born of the world beneath the sea—even though it is, in fact, crafted in Los Angeles. And though marine life may be the cuff’s origin, the delicate web is woven out of titanium, which is what makes the reeflike rainbow in the piece possible. Heat and electricity are applied to the metal in a process so precise that a change of a fraction of a degree results in an entirely different hue. Mother Nature and jewels, it seems, share a temperamental streak.�
M A KE IT N E W Cameos were the jewelry choice of the ancients, but their status has slipped over the centuries. The comeback is now: Art collector Liz Swig tapped Cindy Sherman to design these pendants, which were then cut by a third-generation cameomaker in Italy. CINDY SHERMAN PENSIVE EARRINGS �$22,500�, LIZWORKS.NET
The cuff’s titanium bands mimic a sea anemone’s gently waving tentacles, while more than 125 carats of diamonds evoke oceanic bubbles. LUGANO DIAMONDS CUFF �PRICE ON REQUEST�, LUGANODIAMONDS.COM
72
NOV EM B ER 2 0 1 9 | TOW N A N D C O U N T RY M AG . C O M
Wallpaper 09.01.2020
Vogue 09.02.2020
Galerie 09.04.2020
Garage 09.04.2020
Architectural Digest 09.08.2020