mayjunpreview1991

SETTING THE STAGE: EUR_OPE

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D IRK VAN ERP CoPPER SHoP 11)08 - 77 OaklandandSanFranc•sco

01rk Ko pers lager van Erp ( Ne1he rlands, 18Go 1 9 n . a c u v~UnuedSuw:s) v.a s appareml y •ramed

m lht fam•l y hardv,.artt busmC!'SS befort •mmtgr:u •ng 10 Amenca 1n 1881 . A commerc1<~l coppersmHh 10 lht sh•pyards o rs .. n FranCISCO, he also hammertdbrasss htll casmgs mto artv.arcs o n tht s•de, a ho bby 1ha1 becamt increasmgly lucrall\t. Ht lef1 1he sh1pyards and o pened the Copper Shop m Oakland 10 H)08, mo v1ng 11 u· San Franctsco 10 1910 "'hen he v. em 1010 pon .nershlp "'''h crafts man and des•gner Ehubt·th Eleanor D 'Arcy Caw (Canada, 1868 - 19~4. acll\l' Un1ted !>tatd). G:aw left tht busmess af1er a ) t.".H. but \an Erp conunued unul Ius re urement 111 1919, at v. luch pomt hts son assumed com rol Thestud1o producedal l manntr o fhand""n 'u~ l u mttalv.o rl.. , mc lud1np; la mps, v;,~ <>es, ca ndJt.·, •• ~ l.. ~. bool..ends, :and des k :and 1ablt : a cceo;snm ''· pn· manly 111 copper, van Erp's fa voruc mt.·• ·•l. hut also •nbrass and•ron. S.h e r stem'i lu h.•h ht.'t."n used \ ery rarel; dunn~t 1ht semo r \,Ill Erp's d1reCIIOR. Lamps v. r re ' ecund o nly 10 'iipt.'<'l.ll tomm1s· S I O I\111lbem~•hem o'ii t <iio plu s ll c <~Jt.·d produ ct so f

1ht sho p, compnsmg appro,un.ul·h l \ percen1 of1he hrm 'soutpul . Mosl ret.llll·tl .rt t \lo c nly loa hundred and hfl ) do llars. Van l.rp o~ppcars 10 h-.vepopulant.:d!ht.• uc;e ufmlloi ll l illl:shadt:S of art s and c raft s pt.• nodl a mps,o~ nd h " produc t s a~ amo n~

1he most 1mpor111111 lun!nbuuo ns ro

l•glum~ o fthepenod .

Van Erp \ s1Ud1o o per.ltt.·d much hl..e preFrom lett ,t,gatnavan Erp. Auguste T ~tsse .. nck_aMOu k van Ero.

mdu, lriJ I me1alv. orl..mg sho ps. l-Ie eschewed mac1tnt.•n butadmucedmachutt.-d shee! s!Oc k, fro m v.lul' h hl'hammert'dhtsproducts. Atthcpeak of ,ht.• hrrn 's prospem y het'mployedfivt craft smen, t.·ulwr JOurney men or appre nuces, who \1.-0rked frum u.~ mpla1e s 10 produce t!'S iabhc;hed deSiji!;RS. ( l'r!amly '" mo re comple .. p•tce s, hkt 1-.mps, a di\ISIOn of labor was uuhud. Van Erp's daughlt'r, Agatha ( Unued Suues, 1891 - •978), and de"~ner TI1o mas Arno ld McGlynn ( Unued StaleS, c878 - tl)66) formed the dtco ra11np; depanmem, v.he renonhammt reddcroral•o n suchas p•ercmg o r.,1 e nc1hng v.as done The part ne rsh•p wuh C aw IS c n~dued wuh mtroducm(t more soplu <~t•c ateddeS I(tn S mm \an Erp's repcno1re. Caw had tramcd at the An ln'> lltult o f Cluc;ago and . R. Ashbee'-; Gwld of Hand1craf1. She returned 10 1he 1nte n o r des•gn busmess <~omeum c m 1911. Smce the s1Ud1o produced ptcre'i from p;auerns, her mt\ue nct perSIStedaflerherdepanure Van Erp's tAperusc lay not 10 des 1gn, but rn metalv. o rkmg; he \I. ;as sl..1lled m hammenng as

""ell as m appl y m~ subtle pauna s, wh1c h acctnIUaled lu~ hammermark ~. P;umauo n processes uuh1.ed oal.. clups. bnck dus1s, and C\t'll dnfl· wood pov.de r 111 acht€'\ C 1o nts ran~IRK frum bro wns 10 (tOids 10 rc(k Lamps of such baseo;, pa1rcd w nh lummous m1c a ~ had ~. prov1ded a w f1 amber glo w w1th clecmc l·~hung 1ha1 apprmum;ued the warm1h of earlu:•r fo rme; of ,]. lummauo n c;uchascandlesand o•llamerns

Cop~r

IS .. AIO .. (d•am ) •n {J8 .o4 Al1 •7Cm) ~brks : under bast , struck rncust ou1lm~ of wmdmoH re<: 101n~l~ tnclosmgoblneu!edo'AACYCAW l.88)0.66 Co Htcll on o fMuPOI I ~vsky

andJodreEvans Tht' ~ • mpk, ~r ..ct'fuJ form of 1h•svaststnts as af01lfo rtht tacult' hOimmermarks and varrt'~~~~d

palma of blackened brown resuhs suggtsttht' firt' and me1alsmr1h. ln ru un10n offormandfin•sh11 r'i lht' mt'lah~o o rktr's an s .,..~r IOOut'nul-msp•rtdanponny Tht' prt'C~ dat~s from lmmt'd.atdy afterGa"' 's bnef USOCIIIIOnWIIhtht' SIUdiO Th~

fu r~mt( ofthe

DIRK

VAN

E RP

COPPER SHOP

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WITH SALES UP l85o/o,IT ALM BEGINS 1D lOOK BEAUTIFUL.

'Yuut... k.Jm1 all/if! remorJu64 re.Juft o/ Y-..Z~aland's !htvf'·(kccuk-t.n'f

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dJc/utmct~flouw-7Jhui'.J-...rv, pouulo~m9 c:uftn,ulrun fUIW 11/IJ llruy thrt.ufh .7uiHI yn~~r on ftllrutdtnary lhrveHn<.ntJIJJir/jl.fo ~

/,ttfe murv than thtrly ~urs uyu-

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urc:harrfs It; yru.' a .Jtnffe apple lj.-ors c:an pass 6c-f.rv •••'II JmHf

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mwl p&pufar apf)ks Uur t;,'ronny r ~nut/IJ ore acxu/a6f.. 71fay thruuyli

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'0 t'ach o/lhm apple>

yrua1119 nuwlunft.fmilo/lund,sn 'l

up(Jk 7/nd u , ;;,.,., 9"""''ny Jf!'OJlln

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mukJ //IIJ roro> 6rvrd - n rurvr 7/1,.

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ru'Orrf..d

( ; ..nsNfvr lhv 7Jrov6urn ,

an uppk I uJI Jrx.J us t/i,rty yuan lu pt~rfoC'! 7f £'u1Vju/6f..mkntj c/'st«~fll umflurl slram.r pn.J.,Cfn/

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Xew Zealandhiwi[nn1pro6a6fy aren'lyour Jcfea oj6eauly.

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2Jul

oMusly, >ome6odyi}nding them allracl.iue: Ouer the pas/}Ueyears they'ueaclue..cf/he safesyrowth menlionedafxwe. ~...,- :7/nclualik mosl olherJnu1, kwi[nu1 o> a

colegory haUfl increcuedin 6ofh hou.seho/dpenelralion andpercapila consumplion. 9n plain Cnghih: ~he

please conlocl your

people who'ue neuer 6ouyhl hrwi[rw1 6ejore are 6uying them now. :7/ncflhe win any fwauly conlesl.r. :Jlul ihey're people who have 6ouyhl them are harcllo 6ea1 in a compehlion we dunJ 6uying more.

.J

~o place an orrkr

is a htl/e more imporlanl.

1

NEW ZEALAND FRUIT COMPANY

NEW ZEALAND FRUIT COMPANY

BUGll BOj MIN'S 46

M A Y I 1 U N E

I 9 9 I

Xew Zealanc/

:Jnn1 Company represenl~. '.J" fgk'f/6.thejirs!loadmr1!ha!

Xew Zealandhrwi[rw1aren'l!JOin!! lo

t5afe,s-

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Spreads from Men 's 1991 Spring catalog . "Texture was added to give our photography a 'common denominator' and a distinctive look," Smith said . "Texture also is a large part of the Abboud collection ." Fabrizio Ferri , photographer.

Tyler Smith 's logo sketches . "The logo was a real collaboration between Joseph and myself. It was to be symbolic of Joe's sense of tradition in menswear. We both liked the idea of 'rep ' stripes in a diamond shape . We discarded the initials.

"The logo represents the spirit of updated American tradition without be ing representational. The colors are also classic: burgundy, cream , dark green ."

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