Columbus Crave Summer 2012

tiki

dThre inks ult cocktaiilmf ate summeror

Columbus

tastemakers 2012’s dining visionaries

Peek Inside

Piada $3.99 Summer 2012

www.columbuscrave.com

Open for lunch & dinner 7 days a week, 11:30-2:30am

Dancing • Live Music • DJs • Patio • Private Parties Monday – Friday Bring 5 people between 5 – 5:25pm And get 5 beers for $5 each (25 beers = $25) Select domestic bottles only

Happy Hour Everyday 11-7pm Private Party Rooms Available!

154 N Hamilton Rd • Gahanna 43230 614-532-5711

Fmohio.com

THE FACES OF FRESH FOOD. Curds & Whey • The Greener Grocer • The Fish Guys • Bluescreek Farm Meats Market Blooms • Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams • North Market Poultry and Game • Omega Artisan Bakery and 27 more

Supporting local businesses.

Nourishing our community.

Passionately preserving good taste. www.facebook.com/NorthMarket @NorthMarket

www.northmarket.com 59 Spruce Street

•

Downtown Columbus

•

(614) 463-9664

•

open daily

Join Us On Our Patio For Happy Hour Tuesday - Friday 5 - 7 Half Off Patio Menu Half Off Select Happy Hour Cocktail List

772 N. High Street Suite 106 | Columbus 614-291-1666

Wine Dinners 2nd Monday of Every Month Go to www.lantibes.com for more information and reservations

Shannon Williams Photography • www.shannonwilliamsphotography.com

$5

Greek Gyros

Mondays - All Day and All Night Offer valid at German Village and Grandview locations. Gyro Special Dine-In Only

German Village 912 South High St. 614.445.9090

Grandview 1788 W 5th Ave. 614.485.9090

www.jimmyvspub.com

Join us on our patio in Intimate Dublin or Spacious Worthington Happy Hour Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday 4-7 & Wednesday 4-9PM $5 Martini & Cocktails • Appetizers Starting at $3.99 (bar & patio only) Sunday Brunch - Dublin and Worthington 11:00 am - 2:00 pm

6880 N. High St. Worthington, OH 614-888-1818

www.jliurestaurant.com

50 West Bridge St. Dublin, OH 614-718-1818

BISTRO & BAR

“G. Mike’s

justly famous Shrimp & Grits�

— Columbus Alive

G MICHAEL’S PRIX FIXE MONDAYS 3 Courses for $30 German VILLAGE s 3 4HIRD 3TREET GMICHAELSBISTRO COM

For All of Your Special Occasions...

Mother’s Day Brunch Call or book online today.

Weekly Features 1/2 off Wine Mondays - All Wine Bottles 1/2 Off

All Day Happy Hour

• Wednesday - $5 Martinis & Cocktails Any cocktail, anywhere in the restaurant from 4:00 to close

10241 Sawmill Pkwy • 614-791-8100 • www.vittoriacolumbus.com

the beer of Bourbon country

Mellowed in seasoned oak bourbon barrels for six weeks, the award ­ ­ ­ ­

Gardening and food education classes for all ages

Enjoy seasonal fare at the Conservatory’s Garden Café

Host your event on the Scotts Miracle-Gro Community Garden Campus

See what’s growing

1777 East Broad Street Columbus, Ohio 43203 614.645.8733 www.fpconservatory.org

contents The Columbus dining magazine

Summer 2012

cover story Columbus Tastemakers This is their year

71

Starters

16 Editor’s Note 22 Craveworthy

Asian cooking tools

24 Scoop

30 Essay

Chef’s dinners at Barcelona On the scene at foodie events around town

39 Crave Calendar

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What you need to know about Somali food Dining in ethnic grocery stores

Drink

96 Seasonal

Tropical tiki drinks

104 Bloody Mary Bars

Build-your-own brunch drinks

106 Tea for Two

Relax over a shared pot Tatoheads food truck 108 Perfect Pairings 52 Worth the Drive

What to order with T. Murray’s mahi mahi Magical fried chicken in Barberton 110 Closing Time 56 Charcuterie

De-Novo’s Tomos Mughan’s shares his Housemade sausages and favorite places to eat and cured meats drink in Columbus 58 Three Little Pigs Who does it best?

50 Street Eats

Plan out your season

Above, the Spicy Yuma at Harvest Pizzeria On the cover, Kenny Kim and Misako Ohno at Double Happiness

Food

44 African Cuisine

48 World Markets

Pop-up restaurants and regulars at The Refectory

34 Events

ColumbusCrave.com

l

60 Peek Inside Piada

Behind the scenes at the next Chipotle

Cover and contents photos by

Jodi Miller

34 S. Third St. Columbus, OH 43215 614-461-8700 ColumbusCrave.com Vice President & Publisher Katie Wolfe Lloyd kwolfe@columbuscrave.com Director of Dispatch Magazines Brian Lindamood blindamood@columbuscrave.com Editor Shelley Mann smann@columbuscrave.com Creative Director Will Shilling Design Editor Yogesh Chaudhary Photographers Alysia Burton and Jodi Miller Contributors G.A. Benton, Robin Davis, Faith Durand, Scott Galvin, Jill Moorhead, Karina Nova, John Ross, Kristen Schmidt, Beth Stallings, Rachel Tayse-Baillieul, Eric Wagner, Bethia Woolf and Kelly Zavotka Office Manager Silvana Hildebrandt 614-461-8700 shildebrandt@columbuscrave.com ADVERTISING Niche Publications Advertising Manager Amy Bishop abishop@columbuscrave.com Restaurant Account Executives Valeria McNeal vmcneal@columbuscrave.com Erica Phillips ephillips@columbuscrave.com Subscriptions Don’t miss an issue: Have Crave delivered to your home.

Subscriptions are available for $10 for one year (5 issues). To order, call toll-free 877-688-8009 or visit ColumbusCrave.com.

Crave magazine is published and distributed by the Dispatch Printing Company four times a year. Crave is not responsible for unsolicited photographs, manuscripts or other materials. Reproduction of contents without express written permission is prohibited.

Copyright Š 2012 The Dispatch Printing Company.

starters

editor’s note

Labor of love

H

Photo: jodi miller

Shelley at Harvest Pizzeria in German Village

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ow cute is our cover couple, Kenny Kim and Misako Ohno, the geniuses behind Freshstreet? Those two are in L-O-V-E. A minor miracle, when you think about it, considering they’ve spent the past two years working side by side, day in and day out.

Working with a significant other is tricky in any situation, but in the high-stakes, high-stress restaurant world, it can be downright disastrous. So I was happy to get to know more about three couples that are defying those odds as we put together our cover story, a look at the movers and shakers of the Columbus restaurant scene.

Anaheim, California, native Kim met Ohno when she traveled from her home country of Japan to Columbus for a work-study program.

She was working as a pastry chef at Sushi Bistro Masa, and he was DJing at Bento Go Go on Campus.

They fell for each other even with a significant language barrier (Kim’s family is Korean, and he doesn’t speak Japanese) and took a gamble by getting married after only a few months of dating so that Ohno could stay in the U.S. Happily, the gamble seems to have paid off. Four years later, they’ve turned their mutual love for Japanese street food into a career.

They develop their recipes in tandem, bouncing ideas off each other and tweaking until they get things just right.

“I think it’s a good sign that we spend 24 hours a day together now and we’re still not sick of each other,” Kim said.

Indeed. Here are a few more of my favorite local restaurant couples: Chris Crader & Bethany Lovell.

The couple who oversees every as-

pect of Harvest Pizzeria in German Village is engaged to be married.

And they swear they’ll actually get married just as soon as things slow down a little. In other words, it may be a while.

Crader and Lovell met at Elevator Brewery and Draught Haus. Both were on staff when the Downtown brewpub first opened.

“They work well together,” said Elevator owner Will Triplett. “Not a whole lot of couples choose to work together in this business, but they do it right. They make it happen.”

Magdiale Wolmark & Cristin Austin. Wolmark is one of the city’s most famous chefs. But frequent diners at his Till Dynamic Fare probably know his wife better. The congenial Austin runs everything in the front of the house and will likely seat you, recommend a daily special, pour your cocktail and bus your table.

Rick & Krista Lopez. The Lopezes have a long history of running restaurants together in Columbus, including the beloved La Tavola.

But their Knead Urban Diner, with its always-changing comfort food menu, feels like their most personal project yet.

John Dornback & Trish Gentile.

Dornback oversees the homestyle Italian food at Basi Italia, and Gentile, his wife, is in charge of wine.

Dining at their intimate Victorian Village gem feels like sharing a meal with old friends.

Let’s eat,

Shelley Mann, Editor

Authentic Mexican Food Locations in Dublin, Grove City, Powell, Delaware, Polaris, Gahanna, Columbus, Hilliard

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When You Buy Any Dinner 4:00pm - 8:00pm

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elvaquerorestaurants.com Like us on

SUNDAY BRUNCH SPECTACULAR

Station to Station

Serving from 10:00am - 2:30pm

Salad Selections • Bread Station Chef’s Selections • Seafood Table Breakfast Station • Pasta & Fajita Station Carving Station • Dessert Station Cappuccino & Juice Station

Enjoy a romantic dinner and a birds-eye view of the Port Columbus runways on our beautiful patios.

94th AERO

SQUADRON

5030 Sawyer Road • 614-237-8887 www.94thaero.com

starters

contributors

Faith Durand Faith is the executive editor of The Kitchn at thekitchn.com, an online publication devoted to home cooking. Her second cookbook, about pudding and no-bake desserts, will be published in 2013. A week spent sipping Mai Tais in Hawaii provided inspiration for this issue’s feature on our favorite summer cocktail, the tiki drink.

Beth Stallings A recent transplant from Cleveland, where she wrote about the food scene, Beth is now assistant editor for Capital Style. When not shopping, she has a bad habit of collecting food magazines and marking pages of recipes she wants to try. For this issue, she wrote about the joys of sharing a cup of tea.

Kristen Schmidt Kristen is the editor at Columbus Alive. Lately she’s been taking cues from Tamar Adler’s “An Everlasting Meal,” an essay in praise of simple, economical food. She thoroughly enjoyed peeking inside the minds behind the Piada fast-casual chain for this issue, but still can’t bring herself to put pasta in her piada.

‘Scuse me while I kiss the pie. (guitar solo) 36 Drafts on Tap Gluten Free and Vegetarian Options Available

John Ross John recently took a job as an assistant editor for Columbus Monthly, where he writes about city news and outdoor adventures. John also leads small-group Bible studies and tries valiantly to build things with power tools. Inspired by the city’s growing artisan coffee scene, he has started roasting his own beans.

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Award Winning Pizza 2170 Polaris Parkway (614) 885-6355

6505 Dublin Center Dr. (614) 389-5445

www.mellowmushroom.com/columbus-oh

Hunan • Szechwan • Mandarin

2 FOR 20 $

CHOOSE 1 APPETIZER AND 2 ENTREES *Valid on select dishes only

OUR FOOD SPEAKS FOR ITSELF - NO MSG ADDED

CARRY-OUT DINNERS 10% OFF! Gift Certificates Available!

Sunday-Thursday Dinner Specials.

Sunday: Filet & Shrimp $23.95 Monday: Chicken & Shrimp $19.95 Tuesday: Steak & Shrimp $20.95 Wednesday: Filet & Chicken $20.95 Thursday: Steak & Chicken $19.95 See our Facebook Page for more information

North 1930 E. Dublin-Granville Rd., 1 Mile East Of I-71

(614) 523-2008

4210 Stelzer Rd. • Columbus, OH 43219 (614) 476-6088 • sakuraeaston.com

SAKURA

JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE

Char Broiled Steaks | Lobster & Seafood Award Winning Wine List Live Piano Nightly | Bar Menu

2891 East Main Street | Columbus, Ohio 43209 | 614.231.8238 | thetopsteakhouse.com

LouiE’s Grill Fusion Restaurant

Mexican_Cuban_Italian

Fusion

Come celebrate CINCO DE MAYO and Mother’s Day with us!

Food & Drink Specials 100% made from scratch, 90% made to order, just the way you want it!

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Get $5 Off your purchase of $25 or more!

*Alcohol and gratuity not included

Louiesgrillfusionrestaurant.net 4453 Cemetry Rd Hillard 777-5606

3051 Northwest Blvd Upper Arlington 670-8582

Strainer These wide, shallow skimmers are ubiquitous in Asian cooking. Heat-resistant up to 600 F, they’re used to lift foods from hot oil or boiling water.

Stock up on Asian cooking tools Story by s h e l l e y M ann Photos by w i l l sh i l l i ng

Utensils Don’t even think about eating sushi and dumplings with a fork and spoon. Pick up authentic wood chopsticks and soup spoons in every color and pattern imaginable at the city’s biggest Asian supermarket.

Spider strainer, $11 at Market District in Upper Arlington

Wood chopsticks, $2.50 for 5 pairs; soup spoons, $2 for 2, at CAM International Market on the Northwest Side

Takoyaki pan Are you a fan of the deep-fried octopus balls found at places like Freshstreet and Tensuke Express? Replicate the Japanese street treat at home using this special cast-iron grill, adorned with an adorable octopus.

Takoyaki pan, $17 at Tensuke Market on the Northwest Side

Dumplings Perfectly pleated dumplings filled with savory meats and vegetables are a staple of Chinese cuisine. Try making them at home with these molds, which help to trim, seal and flute edges.

Dumpling mold, $3 at CAM International Market 2 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

Fisherman’s Wharf Looking for the best?

Here we are!

Steamer

DIY sushi Lots of stores sell fancy but overpriced sushi-making kits. Put one together yourself for far less.

All you really need is the sushi rolling mat, sold for cheap at any Asian market—which will also stock nori, rice and other sushi roll fixings.

Back-to-basics steamers made of bamboo are a timehonored method for cooking dim sum, dumplings, vegetables and more. It’s a one-pot-meal, too: cook each course in a different layer!

We don’t have customers... We have friends and family!

Family owned and operated since 1970

Bamboo steamer, $13 at Sur La Table at Easton

Sushi rolling mat, $1.70; Nori seaweed, $1.50 at Arirang on the Northwest Side

Get $10 off when you spend $30!

Cannot be combined with any other discounts or offers.

Expires: July 5, 2012

p r iGina n g& Nikki 2012 Owned by Maria,SJohn,

1611 Polaris Pkwy 614-431-1411 Bestgreekusa.com

l C o l u m b u s C r a v e Like .COM us lon0 0 0

scoop

in

in/out

in

shrimp & grits

Hibiscus cocktails

Inventive takes on this lowcountry favorite have been spotted all over town: Milestone 229’s has andouille sausage, and ZenCha has a smoky version with crumbled bacon.

Harvest Moon Cafe makes a Hibiscus Cosmo with housemade hibiscus syrup.

And Ella’s signature martini combines the tropical flower with pomegranate liqueur.

Out: Calamari

Out: St-Germain

in

sour beer Bodega has several on tap, but we especially adore Cincinnati-based Rivertown Brewing’s neat super-sour Pestilence Hibiscus Sour Brown Ale.

Out: Yuengling

in

in

Yuzu

Lamb Belly

The sour Asian citrus fruit can be found in Pistacia Vera’s Pink Guava Yuzu macarons, and in a sauce on Sushi Bistro’s Fire Dragon roll, topped with blowtorched ahi.

Our new favorite belly, thanks to De-Novo Bistro’s brilliant banh mi riff, which paired the flavorful meat with chicken pate, cilantro, carrots, jalapenos and a sriracha aioli.

Out: Key lime

Out: Pork belly

ptions

n-Free O e t lu G d n a n ia r a Veget

Come Check out our many Gluten Free & Vegan Options!

Also a must try is our daily fresh fish.

w Patio no

open

Call Lavash for all your Graduation and Wedding Catering Needs!

NEAN DITERRA E M T S E EB LIVE! NE OF TH 011 BY A 2 D VOTED O N A 10 ANTS 20 RESTAUR

2985 N. High St. Clintonville, OH 43202

www.lavashcafe.com

614.263.7777

scoop

what’s hot Photo: jodi miller

Pop-up craze Pop-up restaurants give big-name chefs a chance to get out of their own kitchens and set up shop for a night in a temporary space—say, an empty restaurant or a food truck.

It’s a concept that’s been very trendy in big cities, and it’s finally making its way to our parts. Columbus’ Freshstreet took their Japanese street food on the road for a one-night pop-up at Jonathon Sawyer’s Noodlecat restaurant in Cleveland earlier this year.

And now Rick Harrison Wolfe is offering up his Cheesy Truck mobile kitchen for one-night stints to highprofile chefs like Erik Till of Commonwealth Sandwich Bar and David McLennan, who just left his head chef position at Latitude 41.

The Pop Up Truck facebook.com/thepopuptruck

Hills Market thehillsmarket.com

MoJoe Lounge mojoe-lounge.com

For the Pop Up Truck, a rotating group of chefs will create their own mini menus with four or five items, each priced under $10.

“This is a chance to do something totally different than they do every day. It will be their interpretation of street food,” Wolfe said.

The chance to stretch some cooking muscles should be especially exciting for someone like Till, who runs a sandwich shop but has a background in fine dining.

Of course, there are limitations—the Cheesy Truck kitchen has a big grill and a deep fryer, but no ovens.

“I can’t wait to see what they choose to do,” Wolfe said.

More pop-ups are in the works, too. Hills Market will be turning its Veranda into a pop-up restaurant for a series of three chef events this summer, while MoJoe Lounge owner Mark Swanson has plans to do a series of pop-up events with food truck chefs out of his location in German Village.

—Shelley Mann

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DELIGHTFULLY BAKED FRESH DAILY! Just opened in November!

Come and see what makes our breads, cakes, pastries, ice cream and hot foods unique! Take out or dine in.

Cappuccino and other hot drinks. Wifi.

Open Tue – Sat: 10am – 7pm • Sun: Noon – 5pm Closed Mondays

1168 Kenny Centre Mall, Columbus OH 43220 (corner of Old Henderson and Kenny Rds.)

(614) 451-7110

Zagat Rated Over 17 Years as One of Best Restaurants in Columbus

1173 Old Henderson Rd. Columbus OH 43220 (614) 451-5411 • www.akaihanaohio.com

Monday - Saturday 11:30am – 2pm Lunch 5pm – 10pm Dinner Sunday 5pm – 9pm Dinner only

scoop

regulars Photo: jodi miller

Ser v i n g

family favorite Kelly Fleming first got hooked on the Refectory’s exquisite French cuisine during wine tastings. Now she and her husband are among the sophisticated spot’s most devoted diners—often with their five-year-old son in tow.

—Karina Nova What do you enjoy most about the Refectory?

Al: I love their Jazz Supper Club. They have a set menu with four courses and wine pairings. They always bring in a great jazz artist. It’s dinner and a show for $60.

Kelly: Their patio is amazing.

It’s beautiful, with flowers, umbrellas and even an herb garden. You’ll see the chefs cutting herbs to use in their meals.

How does your son like it?

Kelly: Rowan loves it here. All

Refectory 1092 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side; 614-451-9774 therefectoryrestaurant.com Hours: 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Name:

Al Fleming Age: 35

Comfort Food!

Name:

Kelly Fleming Age: 27 Neighborhood:

Dublin

of the servers know him. And we usually sit with him in the Bistro.

The children’s menu is great. Rowan gets three courses for $5. You can’t beat that.

What do you like to order here?

Al: For an appetizer, the escargot. For an entree, the Duet of Veal Medallion and Bison Loin. And for dessert, the Pear Tarte.

Kelly: For me, the Brie Tarte appetizer, the Roasted Quail entree and, for dessert, the European Cheese Plate with a port.

Catch Karina Nova’s weekly Crave segments Saturday mornings on 10TV News HD.

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{

}

Local. House-Made Ingredients.

Dine In. Carry Out. Large Patio!

1437 N. High St. • Columbus, OH 43201 (614) 429-3195 www.commonwealthsandwichbar.com • www.facebook.com/commonwealthsb

scoop

By Kelly Zavotka

I

Essay

back to spain For one diner, Barcelona’s chef’s dinner conjures memories of past trip

come to Barcelona’s Galician Night Chef’s Dinner on a rainy winter evening in hope of a little food-inspired transcendence.

I skim over the menu: Caldo Gallego, a simple vegetable stew. Scallop and ham empanadas. Lobster with basmati rice. Almond tarts.

And wine.

Like the culinary equivalent of a bullet train, those empanadas transport me from the German Village restaurant to the rugged coast of Galicia, on the northwest tip of Spain. By the same method, I’m whisked to a wooden table with that crock of Caldo, exactly as I remembered it.

My first meal in Galicia was in the village of O Cebreiro, atop a 600-meter climb at the end of a 20-mile hike.

Since the ninth century, the tiny village of O Cebreiro has been caring for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, a medieval pilgrimage route popular with modern hikers.

I’d started before dawn, fighting off a pack of toy dogs on my climb up and out of Castilla y Leon, down into the verdant Valcarce Valley, and back up into Galicia.

I’d discovered the witchy beauty of Spanish chestnut trees, scared a wild boar from the brush, shared the road with nodding cattle, and tried to guess the vegetable

in the community gardens lining the roadways before each gray, stone village. (The answer is potatoes.)

I’d been walking 15 to 25 miles a day for weeks at that point, but insanely, I couldn’t stop walking. Elated and exhausted, I couldn’t imagine eating but I knew I must. The village appeared heavy, sinking into the wet mountain under the weight of its own

3 0 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

stone and water.

On the other side of a rain-darkened door, a broadfaced woman with a dirty blond braid hanging heavily over one shoulder placed a paper placemat, silverware and her potato-peeling, cattle-herding hands on the wooden table and gave me a look that accused me of poor judgment in all things.

“Vino tinto, por favor.”

An older man leaning on the end of the bar laughed and said something in Galician. The woman translated.

“He orders for you. The stew.

OK.” She withheld her smile until I agreed, and then with renewed warmth explained that Caldo Gallego is a good, simple stew made with white beans, greens and potatoes. Ham is implied.

Soon, the woman returned with a full bottle of wine (no label) and a basket of bread so rustic I could see the cracked grain baked hard into the crust. Then, a steaming crock of soup that looked exactly how I expected: nearblack greens in a light broth, cloudy with white beans and potatoes. I smelled the ubiquitous Spanish ham.

As I ate, the steam curled my damp hair and relaxed every muscle tensed from the day’s climb. Each spoonful brought me back to the earth that had so elated me.

Six months later, workday weary and seasonally affected, I feel as grounded as a potato. I don’t need soup to remind me that I’m an earthbound human being.

No, that night I was thankful for Jacob Hough—then Barcelona’s sous chef, now promoted to head chef—and Hae Ran Yow, their pastry chef, for creating empanadas and tarts that gave me a little transcendence.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Barcelona hosts occasional chef’s dinners focusing on different geographic regions. Check barcelonacolumbus.com for an upcoming schedule.

Paella des Mariscos con Curry at Barcelona Photo: will shilling

Kelly Zavotka is an English teacher at The Wellington School in Upper Arlington.

KING GYROS GREEK RESTAURANT

Coming Soon!

Newly expanded and remodeled dining room!

400 S. HAMILTON RD. WHITEHALL

866-9008

WWW.KINGGYROS.COM

Brews Cafe

FOR THE GREAT TASTE OF MEXICO

IT’S THE AWARD WINNING...

in Beautiful Downtown Granville

Your favorite neighborhood place is also available for your next event!

• Weddings • Rehearsals • Engagement Parties • Showers Call for details!

116 E. Broadway • Granville, OH

(740) 616-6345

brewscafe.com brews.morgan@gmail.com

UR O H Y P P A H FRI 4-7 PM MON-

MON-SAT M 8AM-10P www.cucostaqueria.com 2162 W. Henderson Rd. • 614.538.8701

scoop

events

noodlecat

Freshstreet pop-up restaurant Thursday, Feb. 2 Photo s by s cot t g a lv i n The fun folks behind Freshstreet, Kenny Kim and Misako Ohno, hit the road in February to do a one-night pop-up restaurant with Chef Jonathon Sawyer at his restaurant Noodlecat in Cleveland.

As part of a series of pop-up events at Noodlecat, lucky guests munched on Freshstreet’s Japanese street food treats, like grilled pork belly skewers and bacon okonomiyaki crepes.

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͕͗͘ ̱ ͔͖͗͗͘ ͔͛͘Ǧ͙͛͜Ǧ͗​͗​͗​͗ ̱ Ǥ Ǥ

scoop

events

fisherman’s wharf

Crave party Wednesday, Feb. 15

Photo s by Alys i a B u rto n To celebrate Crave’s spring issue, we invited about 100 readers to join us for food and beers from Harpoon Brewery at Fisherman’s Wharf in Polaris. Owner Niki Chalkias, profiled in the magazine, and his family have been delighting Columbus diners with lovingly prepared, Mediterranean-style seafood for decades. We were thrilled to share a sampling of Chalkias’ favorite dishes with our fans.

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TEA INSPIRED

Lunch Dinner Entree

&

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Bexley 2396 E. Main St. 614-237-9690

Downtown (Coming Soon!)

19 E. Gay St.

www.zen-cha.com

Sing Karaoke with us Wed-Sat

OTANI Otanisushi.com Since 1978

Corner of 161 and 71 • 614.431.3333

OHIO PROUD. Made in Ohio.

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events

North market

Fiery Foods Festival Saturday, Feb. 18 Photo s by Alys i a b u rto n The Market’s annual Fiery Foods Fest is not for the faint of stomach. It’s a salute to all those foods that get your lips tingling, forehead sweating and pulse racing. Chili competitions gave local chefs and amateur cooks a chance to bring the heat, and brave souls faced off to see who could eat the most spicy cornbread, jalapenos and hot wings.

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Crave Calendar Summer 2012

Market to Market

May 5 North Market & Hills Market A bike ride between two local markets supports Ohio foods and farmers. Each destination hosts events: the kickoff of North Market’s Farmers Market and a Taste of the Hills Market.

northmarket.com

Taste of Dine Originals

May 10 Capital Center at Capital University Sample food from 50 local independent eateries and sip drinks from 30 vineyards, two craft breweries and two microdistilleries.

dineoriginalscolumbus.com

Taste to Remember May 17 Loth in Grandview

plus cooking contests and merchant samples.

northmarket.com

Salmon Roast May 26 Hills Market

Celebrate Memorial Day weekend with 1,000 pounds of grilled salmon plus ice cream, coleslaw, hot dogs, beer, wine and a steel-drum band.

thehillsmarket.com

Tastings on the Terrace

June 7 Franklin Park Conservatory Sip fine spirits and nibble hors d’oeuvres on the terrace to benefit the conservatory’s horticulture programs.

fpconservatory.org

Cooking with the Stars

Food, wine and a silent auction to raise money for Children’s Hunger Alliance and American Culinary Federation-Columbus Chapter scholarship fund.

June 13 Blackwell Hotel

Surf & Truck Tuesday

Grillmaster’s Festival

childrenshungeralliance.org May-June Hills Market

Small plates and silent auction proceeds go to the National Kidney Foundation of Ohio.

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June 16 North Market

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Tuesdays for peel-and-eat shrimp ($8 for a half-pound bucket), cheap beer and dinner from mobile food vendors.

Two days of grilling, smoking, barbecuing, cooking demos and live music.

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July 13-15

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food

Mini Kobe Beef Corn Dogs Flip side 3945 Easton Station, Easton 614-472-3547 flipsideburger.com

Story by S hell ey Mann Photo by jo di mill e r

Flipping out We’re suckers for gourmet junk food.

And so we can’t get enough of the new restaurant Flip Side, a wonderland where the burgers are made with Ohio-raised, grass-fed meat and the corn dogs are stuffed with Kobe beef. Flip Side comes to us from the swanky Akron suburb of Hudson, and its formula of gourmet burgers plus triple-cooked fries plus craft beers (and booze-spiked milkshakes!) should be a smashing success at Easton.

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somali

out of africa The cultural differences you’ll encounter at Somali restaurants take some getting used to, but the food is worth it Story by J i l l M o o r h ea d l P h oto s by JODI MILLER

T

here are anywhere between 40,000 and 60,000 Somali immigrants living in Columbus.

While this number is difficult to tie down (there’s no box for Somali, or even African native, on the U.S. Census), one number is much easier to ascertain: Fifteen. This is the number of Somali restaurants nestled along Cleveland Avenue, Morse Road and on the West Side, says Hassan Omar of the Somali Community Association of Ohio.

For those counting, that’s three times the number of Olive Gardens in Central Ohio. Fifteen, Omar emphasizes, does not include what he calls coffee shops. That

number is elusive.

This world of Somali cuisine is not a fleeting trend. The first restaurant in Columbus to serve Somali food, African Paradise, opened its doors 15 years ago. It’s likely, though, that most Columbus natives have never dined at a Somali restaurant.

But, as a whole, Somali cuisine is easy on a Western palate and an ideal first step for those who want to branch out into African restaurants and other ethnic eateries.

Think juicy and aromatic Sunday stews adorned with familiar ingredients such as green peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Think grilled salmon on a bed of fragrant Basmati rice.

Think, even, grilled chicken with fettuccine and tomato sauce joined by a side salad with Italian dressing. A fivedecade Italian occupation of the south of Somaliland left a permanent mark on the country’s palate, meaning that not only is Olive Garden grossly outnumbered here in Columbus, but they’ve also got competition.

While the fare may be familiar (with the exception of a few not-likely-tobe-found-in-your-fridge ingredients, such as goat meat or cardamom), it’s the culture of Somali eateries that takes a little easing into.

Here’s another steadfast number, provided by Nadira Abdirahman of Solay Bistro: 100 percent of the Somali population in Columbus is Muslim. Not educated in the practices and rules

Somali cuisine is easy on the Western palate, an ideal first step for anyone who wants to venture into African food

Where to go Solay Bistro

African Paradise

Ginevra Cafe

5786 Emporium Square, North Side, 614-899-8800 solaybistro.com

2263 Morse Rd., North Side 614-476-2163

2285 Morse Rd., North Side 614-475-4880

Equipped with descriptive menus in English (complete with many vegetarian options) and specializing in organic and fresh ingredients, Solay Bistro is an ideal stop for those interested in trying Somali cuisine for the first time.

The first Somali restaurant to open in Columbus, African Paradise has large photos of their specialty dishes available at the front entrance and a staff eager to present Somali cuisine to a Western palate. The dining room has a mazelike feel.

Situated in a former Rally’s that shares a parking lot with African Paradise, Ginevra doubles as a restaurant and a cafe. Brightly lit with a lively atmosphere, the informal cafe has a simple menu with daily specials.

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Mixed vegetable sanuunad/suugo with chapati at Solay Bistro

Solay Bistro dining room; below, Chef Abdi Hashi at African Paradise

Photo: Chris russell

S p r i n g 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 4 5

guide

somali

on the menu

associated within Islam and Columbus’ young Somali community? No worries: a learning curve is generously applied.

“Somalis are a very friendly people,” Abdirahman said.

“We will welcome you and try our best to give you a good experience.”

This sense of hospitality is rampant throughout the Somali community; the staff and owners of nearly every Somali restaurant I’ve been to are eager to educate and explain.

Here are a few tips to understand both the etiquette and menus of the best-kept food secret in Columbus.

Jill Moorhead blogs about food at itinerantfoodies.com

Hilib Ari Goat meat stew served with rice or spaghetti. Each restaurant has its own special recipe, and many are served with sauteed onion and green pepper. Properly cooked goat can be very tender and rich, but don’t be surprised to find bones.

Suqaar Cubed meat (chicken, beef, goat) stewed in a sauce.

Marinated with onions, garlic and herbs and served with pasta or rice, this mild, simple dish is the ultimate comfort food.

Sambusa appetizer at Solay Bistro

what to expect First impressions

be out of rice and offer pasta instead.

You may walk into a restaurant to find only men.

In many Somali restaurants in Columbus, men and women do not interact in public; women and children may eat in a separate room.

Westerners are not expected to abide by this cultural norm.

No bill

No menu

Condiments

While some restaurants, such as Solay Bistro and African Paradise, provide detailed menus or pictures for ordering purposes, others may not have a menu at all. Instead, the server will explain what the restaurant has that day.

Somali food typically comes with two condiments: hot sauce and a banana. The hot sauce is different in each restaurant, but common ingredients include jalapeno, avocado, garlic and lime. Refreshing with a bit of a kick, the green sauce is used to add flavor to mild dishes. In some places, you may be encouraged to cut up the banana into bite-size pieces and use it to flavor your food.

Be flexible Be willing to accept changes in the menu, especially in the evening. A restaurant may

Don’t expect a written bill.

Instead your server will tell you that the meal is $10 per person (or, more often, less).

Tips are not expected, but are appreciated in the restaurants that cater to more Westerners.

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If you don’t want the banana, leave it at the table, or take for a later snack.

No booze In Islam, alcoholic beverages are forbidden. Be respectful; don’t BYOB.

Dress modestly Ladies, cover your legs and your chest. This act of respect will make everyone—including you—more comfortable.

Daily prayers Based on the cycle of the moon, prayer is a daily ritual that happens in the middle of the day for five to 10 minutes.

Most Somali restaurants will close their doors during prayer on Fridays. On other days, don’t be surprised if you see staff and customers praying together.

Fata Muus A traditional dish from Northern Somalia, this soft mixture of flatbread, bananas, honey and butter is served with a protein (or vegetables) and a hot sauce. Sweet, savory and tang do jumping jacks on the palate in this meal like no other.

K.K. The East African version of Frito Pie is new to Somali cuisine.

It’s a combination of cubed beef (or chicken, or goat), vegetables (such as green beans, tomatoes, carrots, onions and green peppers) and chopped-up sabayat (flatbread) or anjerro (the Somali cousin to Ethiopia’s pancake-like injera bread).

Somali Tea Not unlike chai, this hot tea is different in each restaurant and cafe, with delicate flavors of ginger and cloves in some recipes.

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ethnic

world markets Some of the best international food in Columbus is prepared in tiny immigrant kitchens hidden in the back of small ethnic markets. Ambience may be a secondary concern at best—don’t be surprised if you’re seated at a fold-out card table—but don’t let the sparse surroundings dissuade you from the exceptional dishes found within.

—Bethia Woolf

Arirang Express Located in Bethel Centre, Arirang serves some of the best and cheapest Korean food in Columbus. Order at the register and take your ticket to the restaurant counter at the rear of the store. Recommended dishes include the dolsot bibimbap, stir-fried squid and spicy seafood soft tofu stew.

Complimentary Korean small plates called banchan change daily and barley tea is free.

Pho Saigon This Vietnamese restaurant is partitioned off inside Asian Grocery at Columbus Square.

Our picks there are the half moon cake (aka banh xeo, an eggy crepe filled with shrimp and pork), Hue-style beef noodle soup and the congeestyle rice porridge.

Apna Bazaar Dolsot bibimbap at Arirang; at right, chicken entomatadas at Plaza Tapatia 4 8 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

The Bethel Road grocery also serves traditional Pakistani and Northern Indian cuisine and specializes in tandoori

dishes. Try the tandoori chicken kebabs, beef nihari or karahi goat. Tip: their naan bread is among the best in town.

Plaza Tapatia

Next to the bustling Plaza Tapatia market behind Westland Mall, Plaza Tapatia the restaurant is best known for its parrilladas and molcajetes— large mixed-grill platters with beef, pork, chorizo, chicken, shrimp and cactus that can feed up to four people. Meats come straight from the butcher next door.

Westgate Thai

Located inside Westgate Cambodian market on Sullivant Avenue, Westgate Thai serves up some of the best Thai food in Columbus and is run by a friendly husband-and-wife team eager to please. Try the pad prik king or the pat kei mei.

Dishes can be ordered spiced to any point on a 1-12 heat scale.

Bethia Woolf blogs at alteatscolumbus.com

Your Party. OUr takeout.

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Westerville 614-823-8890

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Happy Hour Monday-Saturday 3:30-6:30 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Reservations are recommended.

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street eats

sweet Potatoes

Everything on the Tatoheads menu revolves around starchy tubers Story by Be t h i a wo o l f l P h oto s by J O DI M ILLER

T

here’s no false advertising here—Tatoheads is all about the spuds.

The potato-centric food truck, started in the summer of 2011, is the brainchild of Dan McCarthy, who moved here from Chicago with his OSU grad student girlfriend.

McCarthy’s focus on all things potato was inspired by his Irish roots, and a big part of the fun here is in how he uses them as a springboard for exploring flavors from around the world.

Prior to opening, McCarthy spent a long time researching and perfecting his french fries, which provide the foundation for many of his menu offerings.

He says the secrets are finding the proper cooking time and keeping the frying oil clean. Whatever it is, the results speak for themselves—big piles of crisp, well-salted fries topped with all kinds of sauces and seasonings.

bar gigs (you might find them outside Dick’s Den, Skully’s or St. James Tavern), and often set up at festivals and outside corporate office buildings at lunchtime.

What to get: Staples here are french fries, sweet potato fries and tater tots. Order them as-is, or use them as the base for a “loaded combo.”

Among the most popular combinations: Poutine, topped with made-fromscratch beef gravy and fresh

Tatoheads 614-500-3968 tatoheads.com facebook.com/tatoheads @tatoheads

Where and when: As McCarthy says, “this truck has wheels,” and he keeps it on the move.

Tatoheads pops up all around town, so it’s best to keep track of the truck on Facebook or Twitter. They do have a few regular late-night 5 0 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

Clockwise from top, Dan McCarthy and his girlfriend, Allison Davis; Chorizo Cheese Fries; Breakfast Burrito

local Laurel Valley Creamery cheese curds; Chorizo Cheese, with mozzarella and Tatoheads sauce; Italian Sausage, with mozzarella, green peppers, onions and a marinara-esque red peppercilantro ketchup; and the vegetarian Middle Eastern, with a smoky paprika hummus, cucumber sauce, sriracha, tomato and parsley.

Beyond that, you can embark on a choose-yourown adventure by building your own loaded combo from the wide variety of sauces, seasonings and toppings.

Tatoheads has other potato-inspired dishes, too, including soups (try the Loaded Baked Potato), hoagie-style sandwiches and paninis. McCarthy makes all of the breads (potato-based,

of course) from scratch.

Yep, he’s full of creative ideas, and it’s not unusual for him to try out new recipes on any given day. Watch for specials such as Burgundy Braised Beef Stew or Chicken Andouille Stew to add some heft to your fries.

Don’t forget to try: The dipping sauces. Start with the Tatoheads signature sauce on regular fries—it’s an orange-hued ranch dressinglike sauce with a little kick, reminiscent of Mikey’s Slut Sauce. Then move on to the curry sauce paired with sweet potato fries.

Bethia Woolf, owner of Columbus Food Adventures, blogs at streeteatscolumbus.com

be

ITALIAN

Patio Now Open New Spring / Summer Menu Private Room Available

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Worth the drive

the chicken from magic city An eccentric regional classic is sizzling in Barberton, just a two-hour journey from Central Ohio Story by G . A . Be nto n l P h otos by J ODI M I L L ER

5 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

T

he vigorous hot-oil massage in molten hog is a key to its distinctive shell with a sexy reddish tint. Traditionally mounded by a floppy crown of hand-cut, crispedup fries, it’s classically served with a blunted mini tower of fresh and vinegary slaw plus a zesty onion, tomato and rice dish oddly called “hot sauce.”

It’s a nationally praised sensation that’s been profiled in Saveur and USA Today, as well as championed by Iron Chef Michael Symon on the Food Network. Still somehow, sadly, few people in Columbus know of it. It’s Barberton fried chicken, and I figured the time was right for Central Ohioans to be formally introduced to this uncommon meal.

My two-hour ride to Barberton—an Akron suburb—concluded with a sign announcing I’d reached “The Magic City.” Barberton earned this whimsical moniker because, after it was founded in 1891 by a man named—I’m not kidding— Ohio Columbus Barber (the Diamond Match magnate!),

Barberton experienced a huge and apparently “magical” population surge, primarily from Eastern Europe.

Unfortunately, today it’s a depressed Rust Belt town that, at a superficial glance, shows little evidence of its old magic. But that Eastern European background is still much in the forefront. Nearly a century ago, those proud roots produced Barberton chicken—still served in a handful of quirky restaurants.

Sitting in Belgrade Gardens—where Barberton chicken was actually “invented”—and listening to proprietor Milos Papich explain the entwined histories of his family and hometown’s famous dish, the restaurant’s coffeeshop-ish interior began to fade away in favor of its previous farmhouse existence.

Papich’s story transported me back to the “hard times” year of 1933 when, after losing their dairy farm, his Serbian immigrant grandparents found themselves with a struggling restaurant.

One day, though, while the Serbian staff was enjoying a fragrant “old country”

Where to get it Longtime loyalties run deep with each of these eccentric chicken specialists—even if their actual differences might seem shallow to outsiders.

Belgrade Gardens 401 E. State St., Barberton 3476 Massillon Rd., Uniontown belgradegardens.com

Hopocan Gardens 4396 Hopocan Ave., Barberton 330-825-9923 hopocangardens.com chicken dinner Papich’s grandma Smilka had cooked, intrigued customers inquired what smelled so great. Offered a taste, they instantly fell in love, and an old Serbian favorite became a new American regional classic.

With my first audible crunch into the (kinda nutty flavored) delightfully thick, crisp yet chewy crust, I too became initiated into the Barberton faith—literally.

That’s because the plump, tender and extremely clean-

The plump, tender fried chicken’s prime virtue is an almost ritualistic simplicity tasting stuff is among the juiciest fried chicken I’ve ever bitten into—and with my initial chomp, delicious hot “baptismal” liquid squirted onto my shirt.

Smiling like he’d seen this before, Papich further described how Barberton chicken stands out: the birds must be fresh and locally (Amish) raised; they must be fried in lard; they must be cut into 12 (not 8) pieces, which include split wings and back hunks (aka “chicken ribs”); and, to preserve the pure, fresh poultry flavor, the chicken is not “killed” with seasoning “like in the South.” In short, this chicken’s prime virtue is an almost ritualistic simplicity.

A bit of ceremony also accompanies eating the meal. First, the timbale of tangy (no-mayo) slaw tingles

White House Chicken

180 Wooster Rd. N, Barberton (and four other locations) 330-745-0449 whitehousechicken.com

Milich’s Village Inn

4444 Cleveland Massillon Rd., Norton 330-825-4553 open the taste buds. Then come the huge and beautiful pieces of meat eaten with that killer, Hungarian-pepperpowered “hot sauce” (its Serbian name is djuvece, and the rice is considered a thickener) plus those irresistible skin-on fries.

Bonus: observing little old ladies hunkering over massive platters of homey food gaze up happily and inform me they’ve been eating this their whole lives—which happened several times in several different restaurants—was nearly as nourishing as the soulful dinner itself.

After visiting a few insanely quaint Barberton chicken businesses, it became time to leave. Though I’d certainly had a fun day, while driving homeward past Barberton’s dollar stores, tiny windowless taverns and low-slung strip malls, I began to feel gloomy.

And then I remembered I had an enormous to-go box of still-warm magic waiting for me right in the back seat.

Food critic G.A. Benton blogs at columbusalive.com

s u mm e r 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l 5 3

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trends

Charcuterie

cut ups More and more, restaurants are making their own sausages and cured meats Story by G . A . Be nto n l P h oto by A lys i a Bu rton

I

’m the kind of person who wants to know how my sausage is made— and who makes it. Based on the growing presence of great local charcuterie items on refined and edgy menus lately, I’m not alone.

Derived from the French words referring to “cooked meat” (chair cuit), the art and craft of charcuterie encompasses sausage-making plus a lot of other—mostly Francophilic—delicacies such as pates, terrines and rillettes.

While many of these techniques were formally established during the 15th century in France, some are much older—Homer described Odysseus fighting for a lamb sausage some 3,000 years ago. And it’s not just about the French, because all hams (like prosciutto), most “cold cuts” (e.g. salami) and certainly bacon would need to be included in the charcuterie category.

Strongly concentrating on pork, charcuterie became prized prior to modern refrigeration, because its methods help slow spoilage by limiting meat’s bacteria-friendly moisture content (often through smoking and/or salting) or by lessening exposure to oxidizing and pathogenrich air (by, say, sealing the meat in fat, a la confit).

But what was once primarily a preservative necessity soon became a beloved

treatment for creating desirable flavors and textures.

Before progressing—and without getting too technical—I should explain that pates and terrines are quite similar.

Both are slow-cooked loaves or slabs of “forcemeat,” meaning highly seasoned (this began as a cover-up for off-flavors) and very finely chopped meats emulsified in fat, and “forced together” via, for example, being passed through a sieve. Rillettes are in the same fat-bound ballpark, but are generally coarser and served as spreads.

Through the years, charcuterie preparations have long had a formal and fussy reputation, but with our 21st century’s surge in love for pork fat flavor bombs and a renewed appreciation for artisanal butchering, a fresh generation is embracing these old ways and even taking them into new directions.

Locally, charcuterie goodies crop up regularly (plenty of pizzerias make their own sausage), but serious devotions to it are still sporadic— if on the rise.

For instance, when I was snooping around for this article, I encountered responses like “we just made plans to cure our own lardo,” (Rigsby’s) and “I’d offer it all the time if it weren’t so effin’ hard to make!” (Alana’s).

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Charcuterie Plate at DeepWood

Where to Get It DeepWood

The Refectory

Prettily presented on an elevated little butcher board, DeepWood’s fantastic charcuterie plate is Italianinspired and about as elegant as cold cuts get. Among the homemade layout’s many stars are rare and beautiful, in-house-produced mortadella (fat-restrained, garlicky, slightly coarse, pistachio-studded and highly aromatic); killer duck prosciutto with outrageously silky fat and a hint of pleasant funk on the dark duck meat; plus outstanding salami-like lamb and (surprisingly mild) venison sausages.

Why alpaca? Because it’s Ohio-raised and because the best food is meant to broaden your horizons, not coddle you like a baby. Having said that, this bacon-wrapped amalgam of pork, duck and, yes, alpaca is quite beefy tasting and easy to love. And since it’s from the Refectory, it’s art on a plate, with stylish left-and-right and up-anddown contrapuntal flourishes from brandied cherries, sage-y jasmine stalks, green peppercorns, black olives, briny cornichons, crusty sea salt and a Hollandaise-y mustard sauce.

Charcuterie Plate

Alpaca Terrine

Photo: will shilling

Albert Thurn

Spotlight on: Thurn’s

C

These wonderful charcuterie specials are offered now and again

Alana’s

Knead

Made with Ohio-raised duck from Olde Village Meats, Alana’s crazy-great rillettes came in a soft, amazingly moist and tender slab. I also loved the plate’s main partner—a rich pate created with Ohio Proud veal, its delightfully earthy and livery load effectively lightened by brandied cherries and pistachios.

Bonus: Most of the ensemble’s counterpoints were also locally sourced, like crunchy bacon crostini (Bluescreek and Dan the Baker) and housemade salty pickled cucumber discs.

“Lambcetta” is a luscious example of new ideas breathing life into classic techniques. This dish starts with unsmoked ancient Roman-style bacon (pancetta) that’s brilliantly made with lamb instead of pig, and which Knead cures with rosemary and juniper to tease out its creaminess. When teamed with fresh fava beans, asparagus and peas and tossed with handmade green pasta hinting with mint, it’s like a delicious immersion into the verdant but ephemeral delights of the Eternal City’s celebrated springtime.

Charcuterie Plate

Lambcetta Pasta

harcuterie is superhot right now, but Thurn’s was curing its own meats long before today’s hotspots rediscovered pates and rillettes.

German immigrant Alois Thurn opened a sausage shop on Front Street across from the Swiss Club in 1886, and German immigrants flocked to Thurn’s Specialty Meats for bratwurst, sausages and smoked meats.

Nowadays, the store is run by a fourth-generation Thurn, Albert, and a steady flow of customers still seek out those sausages, as well as updated offerings like prosciutto and wildly popular double-smoked bacon.

Though there’s been a resurgence in cured meats on restaurant menus, Thurn’s does not sell wholesale to restaurants and has no plans to do so. Instead, the family

Thurn’s Specialty Meats 530 Greenlawn Ave., South Side; 614-443-1449 Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday-Friday, 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturday

prefers to directly serve their loyal customers, many of whom have shopped Thurn’s their entire lives.

What keeps patrons coming in again and again, said Albert’s brother, Anton Thurn, is “quality products, staying small and a friendly atmosphere.”

Family-trained butchers cut and grind meat by hand.

The pieces are brined, cured, smoked or dried according to time-tested recipes.

Meat is manufactured here, too. The building houses a refrigerated curing room where smoked ham hocks and slabs of bacon hang from hooks, a large processing area and a two-story smoker. Eau de campfire wafts through the vintage-tiled rooms.

Fresh sausages, smoked deli meats and charcuterie are available in any quantity a customer wants from the long, glass-fronted case.

Thurn’s also sells cheese in cooler months and ribs during the summer.

And if you want to try something, just ask—samples are given freely.

—Rachel Tayse-Baillieul

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trend

who does it best?

Pig out

Three Little Pigs is such a clever name for a sandwich with three types of pork, we’re not surprised both Commonwealth and Milestone 229 are using it. Despite identical names, though, these two sandwiches are quite distinct. Here’s how they stack up.

Story by S h e l l e y M a nn Photo: Jonathan Quilter

Photo: jodi miller

Commonwealth Sandwich Bar

Milestone 229

Price: $9.50 The three pigs: Roast pork shoulder, house-cured bacon and braised pork belly The rest: Fried egg, pickled onion and a port wine barbecue sauce On the side: Spring for some fries, served in a delightful bouquet fashioned out of butcher paper The artisan sandwich shop on High Street south of Campus loads those three meats and an egg onto buttered and toasted Italian bread from Eleni-Christina.

The tender roast pork shoulder is the standout among the three piggies, while the bacon’s a little too chewy. We admire the pure meatiness of this sandwich, but wish it had a bit more of that sweet barbecue sauce to stand up to all the pork.

Price: $10.95 The three pigs: Pulled pork, double-smoked hickory bacon and caramelized pork belly The rest: Chunky coleslaw, pickles and a mustard-barbecue sauce On the side: Thick-cut seasoned or sweet potato fries This towering sandwich served on a great brioche bun has plenty of wow factor, just like the riverside, window-filled hotspot that serves it.

Against all odds, the sandwich doesn’t taste like a full-on meat assault. That’s thanks to plenty of tangy barbecue sauce and lots of creamy coleslaw. All three pork varieties shine, but especially the juicy pulled pork and mind-blowing, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly.

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So, who does it best? Milestone 229 These three pigs are all winners, and the flavorful sauce and coleslaw are added bonuses.

5 8 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

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trend

Business plan

a chain is born

Piada founder Chris Doody is on track to turn his fast-casual Italian concept into the next Chipotle Story by Kr i st e n S c h m i dt l P h otoS by E r i c Wagner

I

t’s nearly 8 p.m. on a weeknight at Piada’s Upper Arlington location, but the dinner rush has yet to end. Maybe that’s because the schedules of the clientele—an eclectic mix of students in sweats and worker bees in loosened ties—disregard a traditional dinner hour.

They hover over their piadas—Italian flatbreads stuffed with a panoply of meat, vegetables and sauce—pasta bowls and salads, conversing over the latest Kelly Clarkson hit, which is bouncing off the walls.

Italian soda fizzes up the sides of a glass.

“My desire was to build another company that was scalable.

To do that required a certain simplification.”

Chris doody, Founder, Piada

Grownups eagerly dip into bags of cannoli chips. The furniture is sleek and modern.

The logo includes a Vespa-like scooter.

Plenty of people think this cocktail of food, sound and scene is a winning combination that could become as much a household name as Chipotle.

That’s very much the hope of Piada’s founders, who have been down a road before that looked remarkably similar.

In September 2010—just 18 months ago—Piada was that one restaurant in Upper Arlington. It is now six, the newest a standalone shop on Sawmill Road in

Dublin. Dayton will soon be home to the first Piada outside Columbus, and the company has plans to expand by another six or so stores this year, including locations in Cincinnati and Cleveland.

If this sounds like a Columbus restaurant story you’ve heard before, well, it is.

Piada Locations Upper Arlington

Gahanna

Dublin Avery

1315 W. Lane Ave. 614-754-1702 Opened: September 2010

4697 Morse Road 614-532-5073 Opened: June 2011

6335 Perimeter Drive 614-389-5394 Opened: December 2011

Bexley

Easton

Dublin Sawmill

2585 E. Main St. 614-754-1834 Opened: May 2011

4025 Easton Station St. 614-532-6551 Opened: September 2011

6495 Sawmill Road 614-389-2069 Opened: February 2012

6 0 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

running the show Four people form the core of Piada’s leadership team Mike Bomberger (Corporate Executive Chef) Bomberger was hired at Bravo Brio by Doody in 1994, and the two have worked together since.

Bomberger trained at the esteemed Johnson & Wales University. He worked in restaurants in Los Angeles until he returned to Columbus in 1994.

Jamy Bolling (Corporate Operations Chef) Bolling also was a longtime employee of Bravo Brio, starting as an executive chef and moving up to Mid-Atlantic regional chef. Bomberger hired Bolling, who is also a graduate of Johnson & Wales. Bolling worked for the now-defunct 55 Restaurant Group, where Cameron Mitchell was a managing partner.

Jason Souder (Controller)

Chris Doody Doody is a secondgeneration member of a Columbus restaurant dynasty. He and his brother, Rick, built Bravo Brio Restaurant Group from one location to dozens before selling to investment firms in 2006.

Photo: jodi miller

(founder)

Souder also manages finances for Lindey’s, run by Sue Doody, Chris Doody’s mother.

Souder previously worked for Lifestyle Communities as a business unit manager and PriceWaterhouseCoopers as an associate.

SU M M ER 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l 6 1

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T

he Doody name in Columbus is synonymous with restaurants. Piada Chairman and CEO Chris Doody’s mother, Sue, opened German Village classic Lindey’s in the early 1980s.

Chris and his brother Rick built Bravo Brio Restaurant Group from one location in Columbus in 1992 to 52 restaurants in 19 states in 2006, when the chain was sold to two investment firms for as much as $200 million.

The family patriarch, Alton Doody, who died in March 2011, was an internationally regarded business innovator who consulted with major corporations on merchandising, sales and design. He also had a passion for

Business plan

great food: He helped found not just Lindey’s and Bravo Brio, but also Hyde Park Grill in New Orleans, Bon Vie Bistro and other ventures. And he spent three years as dean of a culinary school near New Orleans.

But Chris Doody is quick to refute the notion that anything attached to his last name will be a success.

“I think that you’re a little paranoid the second time around,” he said. “I think there was a certain expectation if I did something again that it be pretty good. Or people were going to say, well, he just was kind of a onehit wonder. That really motivates you to think through all of the elements of opening a new venture. Healthy

6 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

Have it your way

We did the math, and it is staggering—in theory.

Choose an entree with one of seven proteins, add any possible combination of sauces, dressings and toppings and you come up with—get ready for this— more than 15 billion possible combinations.

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Cold

Salad Dressings l Balsamic l Italian l Skinny Vin l Oil & Vinegar l Creamy Parmesan

Toppings l Artichokes l Arugula l Black olives l Cucumbers l Eggplant caponata l Feta cheese l Mixed greens l Fresh mozzarella l Mushrooms l Pancetta l Parmesan Reggiano l Peppadew peppers l Red onions l Romaine l Spinach l Sun-dried tomatoes l Tomato basil relish l White beans

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Commemorate The 100-Year Anniversary of the Unsinkable Ship!

Dinner Theatre opened “THE WRECK OF THE ENORMOUS, A Mystery of Titanic Proportion” in conjunction with the sinking of the Titanic 100 years ago. Our story, however, is one of comedy and mystery. Enjoy entertainment and great food!

We are the original mystery dinner theatre in Columbus, Ohio. Formerly located at Morse & I-71. Our new home is Shanes (known for their gourmet food), located at 447 East Livingston, in German Village.

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trend paranoia.”

In 2007, Doody and his business partners began discussing a fast-casual concept in earnest.

“I wanted to do something a little different. I studied who is really successful, and it was the fast-casual category. Chipotle has over 1,000 units. Panera has over 1,000 units.

To build a bigger company, you have to ask yourself, ‘How do you do that?’” Doody said. “A lot of it has to do with the concept and in which niche you can do it in. My desire was to build another company that was scalable. To do that required a certain simplification.”

Enter the piada.

T

hough Piada’s leaders tout the versatility of the menu, the chain’s heart and soul is right in the name. So how did the piada—a flatbread specific to the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy—get to be the star?

Piadas are a storied food of Romagna— a 1909 poem, “La Piada,” literally sings their praises. Traditionally, the woman of the house—a rezdora—would make piadas as an economical snack; the ingredients are few and simple, but the end result is satisfying.

Today, though, piadas are an “industrially

Business plan What’s in your ultimate piada?

Chris Doody, Piada chairman and CEO Calamari No pasta Arugula Peppadew peppers Lettuce Diavolo sauce Drizzle of Creamy Parmesan dressing

Mike Bomberger, Piada corporate executive chef Arugula Italian sausage Mushrooms Basil pesto Parmesan Reggiano produced tourist attraction, the rezdoras replaced by mechanized mixers and electric hotplates,” according to the Oxford Companion to Italian Food. Where they are still sold in street-side kiosks or carts, they are filled minimally, with two or three ingredients.

They are not, under any circumstance, filled with pasta.

That indelibly American idea emerged from a Piada focus group before the first store opened.

“We were looking at that filler piece.

Chipotle has rice, so as Piada we were looking at, OK, what can we put in it for

6 4 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

Line cook at Piada on Sawmill Road people who want more in their piada?”

Piada Corporate Executive Chef Mike Bomberger said. “That’s when the pasta came around, as strange as it may have been.

There’s something about eating chicken parmesan in a piada that’s just delicious, just phenomenal.”

Doody himself eschews pasta in his

piada.

“The best piadas are the simplest ones,” he said.

That said, even the Johnson & Wales University-trained Bomberger and Piada Corporate Operations Chef Jamy Bolling— who know perfectly well that salmon and marinara are not a natural pair—downright celebrate the

right of the customer to put whatever he darn well pleases in his piada.

“It’s up to the guest’s palate. For me, I may cringe sometimes at what somebody’s making, but at the end of the day, are they happy?” Bomberger asked. “Are they saying, Man this is the best thing I’ve ever eaten? Absolutely.

That puts a smile on my face.”

A first-time diner at Piada might be overwhelmed by the array of choices before him at the gleaming white-glass-andchrome counter. And he is likely to encounter new flavors, too, like zesty peppadew peppers, eggplant caponata, pancetta, peppery arugula and

high-end parmesan cheese. This can, and often does, lead to ingredient overdose.

“We were very concerned that people would go through the line and put something together that didn’t taste good,” Doody said. “Surprisingly, we have no problem with that. People are doing some really crazy com-

binations and loving it… I think the first time through people are overwhelmed by the amount of choices. People comment, ‘I didn’t quite get it. It was good, but I know what I might do differently next time.’ So they’ll give you another try.”

When he was developing Piada, Doody knew he wanted to

stick with Italian food, which has mass appeal and with which he was intimately familiar.

“I didn’t know what it was called. I thought, ‘Why hasn’t anyone done a thincrust dough that can be cooked on a stone?’ And literally, through the help of a friend, we were able to discover the piada,” Doody said.

The piada was a blank canvas that restaurant customers could endlessly customize. And Doody had paid keen attention to the success of Chipotle, the wildly successful pioneer of the choose-your-ownadventure concept.

“There’s no question there’ve been people who have paved the way on this concept of being able to customize your order,” Doody said.

“People like to see the food, see what’s going in, make sure it’s fresh. It’s fun.”

Other restaurants are serving piadas (and, indeed, some of them are called Piada), but no one else seems to be doing it like Columbus’ Piada.

And no one else is getting the same publicity; the Nation’s Restaurant News has spilled a little ink on Piada, calling it “one to watch” and asking “The Next Chipotle?” in a headline.

And, the same day Doody sat down

for an interview with Crave, he had spent the morning talking to “CBS Sunday Morning,” which was in town to shoot a story about Columbus as a proving ground for new restaurant concepts.

“I think Columbus is a sophisticated town and people here really appreciate better food, better experiences,” Doody said.

“But, importantly, it’s where we live, and whenever you develop a new concept in any business, you have to be there a lot.

Whatever business you’re in, when you try to expand outside of your market and you’re not there, it’s when you really can have problems.”

B

omberger was cooking for a restaurant group in California when he got noticed

by Doody, who hired him to the Bravo Brio group in 1994. Bomberger, in turn, hired Bolling, who rose from executive chef at a Bravo restaurant to a regional chef for the company, overseeing executive chefs from Florida to New Jersey.

Bomberger and Bolling know the full-service chain restaurant environment intimately, but this is their first venture in the fast-casual arena.

Bomberger says there’s plenty of common ground.

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“It’s quality control, food safety, all those aspects of the business,” Bomberger said. “Can you take a recipe and multiply it out to 10, 15, 20 restaurants?”

Piada is custombuilt for such expansion, the chefs said.

Each outlet is run by a chef—a linchpin in the company’s

We’re a young company and we need to be careful not to expand too fast.”

Chris doody, Founder, Piada

Business plan

“food-driven” culture.

Meats, vegetables, sauces, dressings and the piadas are cooked fresh at each restaurant. A commissary system—used by big chains to centralize food production and distribution—doesn’t appeal to Bomberger.

“You have to have the love in the back from the people that opened the restaurant. That’s where that [chef] comes into play.

He’s responsible for buying his food and seeing what comes in the back door,” Bomberger said. “He’s our last line of defense.”

A small team— including Doody, Bomberger, Bolling and controller Jason Souder—spent nine months in the Piada

6 6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l s u mm e r 2 0 1 2

corporate office in Grandview Heights trying the food and concept on focus groups. Many of the people who came through didn’t know Doody was involved, he said.

“That was by design. We didn’t want them to have a preconceived notion that, Oh, it’s the people from Bravo and Brio,” he said.

Creating and maintaining a consistent, repeatable experience for customers across a number of restaurants comes down to good hiring, the chefs said.

“The recipes are fairly self-explanatory,” Bolling said.

“The complex part comes when we don’t follow through with

what we’re doing and we don’t keep that customer at the front of mind.”

Good hiring becomes ever more critical as a chain expands and, by virtue of geography, has to develop regional management. At some point soon, Bomberger and Bolling won’t be a 15-minute drive from the executive chefs in each restaurant.

“There’s challenges on every front,” Doody said. “You’ve got to hire great people. That’s the greatest challenge by far. And you have to train them properly.

You have to be disciplined about opening stores and making sure the consistency

is there. And if it’s not there, you shouldn’t be growing.”

Multiple restaurants in a relatively small geographical area is one thing—there is complication in volume, yes, but local control is direct and accessible. Doody won’t share details about how big he’d like Piada to eventually grow—how many outlets might open and where. But his history shows this: He has a plan.

“Certainly we think there’s potential.

We’re a young company and we need to be careful not to expand too fast and lose control, because then you have to retrench. We don’t want to screw it up.”

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614.824.1769

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entree

Taste

Makers From food trucks to fine dining, these are the chefs, bartenders and visionaries who are redefining the way this city eats and drinks

s u m m e r 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 0 0 0

trending IN COLUMBUS 7 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l s u m m e r 2 0 1 2

Artisanal pizza For too long, Bono Pizza was this town’s only refuge for pizza connoisseurs. No more. Starting with Clever Crow’s cornbread-crusted pies and continuing with Harvest and Element, Columbus is in the midst of a pizza renaissance.

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tastemakers

Marcus Meacham E x ec u t i v e chef , B odega

Story by G. A . B en ton l Photo by j odi mill er

H

ip-hop deejay.

Graffiti artist.

Physical trainer.

Empanada roller at the famous Casa Nueva in Athens. These were enlightening stops along Marcus Meacham’s winding path to becoming a transformative chef at Bodega.

Brainy, brawny, creative and deliberate, Meacham explained that he arrived at Bodega early this year with the goal that “the food would move to the forefront” at a place previously better known for its good times and great beer.

Leaning over a thick black folder kept close by to capture bursts of inspiration,

Age: 31 Neighborhood

Short North Signature dish:

Shrimp and Grits Favorite food city:

Austin, Texas Late-night snack:

Adriatico’s Pizza

Housemade Brazilian bitters Spotted on bars around town: dandelion bitters, cardamom bitters, black walnut bitters…

We’ll get not one, but two Brazilian steakhouses within the year, in the Arena District and at Easton. Mmm, spitroasted meat on swords.

Meanwhile, get your fix at the new Estilo Brazil supermarket.

Previous gigs

Executive chef at Barrio, Vonn Jazz, J. Liu

Bodega 1044 N. High St., Short North 614-299-9399

Brewery District One bar has singlehandedly revived our interest in the sleepy neighborhood: Double Happiness.

Meacham pointed to his original outline for the delicious snack that sat before us. It was that Belgian classic of mussels & fries, but enriched with a twist.

Meacham described it thusly: “Everyone loves blue cheese with bacon; [chuckling] I call these Midwestern Moules et Frites.”

A fan of molecular gastronomy guru Ferran Adria, Meacham has assembled “cold-smoked Lobster Rolls” as a special and plans to introduce Bodega’s diners to more of the ultra-modernist cuisine’s high-tech delights, such as “balsamic pearls” in salads and “gellified sangria” in desserts.

“I have full creative control in the kitchen and I like pushing boundaries,” he said.

What else new and exciting might we soon taste? An intriguing Sunday brunch is taking shape, and the seafood-loving Meacham said he’d love to play around with sea urchin, plus he’s already been working up “weekly cuisine theme specials” with playful titles like “upscale Mexican fusion.”

Grocery dining When Hills Market Downtown opens this summer, it’ll join a growing roster of great dining options located inside supermarkets.

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tastemakers

Favorite food city

Tokyo

Guilty pleasure

Hi-Chew fruit candy Favorite cheap eat

Mi Li’s pho

Ages: 30

Neighborhood

Dublin

Previous gigs

Head kitchen chef at Moshi Sushi, sushi chef at Haiku, line cook at Shoku (Kim); Pastry chef at Sushi Bistro Masa (Ohno)

Freshstreet 482 S. Front St., Brewery District 614-220-5558

Boozy milkshakes We’d like this to become a trend, anyway, after trying the bourbon-spiked Apple Pie Shake at Flip Side.

7 4 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l s u m m e r 2 0 1 2

Gluten-free Frozen yogurt You don’t have to look hard to find gluten-free options these days. Hotspots like Mezzo, Pistacia Vera and DeepWood have whole menu sections devoted to them.

A new wave of frozen yogurt shops serves everything from supertart soft-serve (Yagoot) to super-sweet (Cuzzins).

The Big Fat Greek Kuzina Old Fashion, Traditional, Fresh Greek

kenny kim & misako ohno

good food. good wine. good people.

Story by she l l ey mann l P hoto by j od i m ill er

Family owned and operated since 1970 Owned by Maria, John, Gina, & Nikki

O wne r s / chefs , f r eshs t r ee t

F

rom the back of a street food hut attached to a Short North art gallery, Misako Ohno makes bulgogi cheesesteak crepes that will change your life.

If we’re talking raw talent, the Freshstreet duo of Ohno and her boisterous husband, Kenny Kim, are among the most exciting new players on Columbus’ constantly evolving food scene.

Consider this: They’ve gotten national attention for their crepes and takoyaki, prepared from recipes made up on the fly, first from a tiny cart and then from a cramped hut. They use ingredients sourced from the same places Kihachi uses, yet they’re committed to keeping prices at streetfood levels. And that means they’re not making a cent.

Just imagine what they could do with a real kitchen, with a staff, with some money.

Kim and Ohno are hampered only by their own

impetuousness—a sense of spontaneity that makes for mindblowing food but also frustrations like erratic hours and some ill-advised business decisions. But in the last few months, they’ve shown signs of growing up.

As of May 1, they’ll move all operations from the Late Night Slice hut to the kitchen at Double Happiness, a Brewery District bar with an Asia-via-NYC vibe that suits them perfectly.

They’ll do lunch there Monday through Friday, dishing out crepes plus quick-serve bento boxes and rice bowls, and continuing with their late-night yakitori menu Thursday through Saturday (now simply called Freshstreet after Ohno and Kim split ways with their Section 8 Yakitorium business partner).

Double Happiness owner Yalan Papillons says she loves the energy the couple brings to the bar. “Whatever they do, they perfect it,” she said.

“Misako is an artist.”

Cris Dehlavi’s army The classic-cocktail-loving M bartender has trained lots of the city’s young mixologists. Now her influence can be seen at far-flung places like Harvest Moon Cafe.

We are not just Gyros.

Full Authentic Greek Restaurant.

Homemade Pastitsio, Baklava, Moussaka, & More!

The Big Fat Greek Kuzina 2816 Fishinger Rd. Columbus, OH.

614.457.4753 Gluten Free Options Vegan | Organic |Vegetarian | Chemical Free

WWW.BESTGREEKUSA.COM

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tastemakers

Culinary hero

David Chang Favorite kitchen gadget

Masamoto usuba knife Favorite ingredient

Pig

Age: 29

Neighborhood

Italian Village Previous gig

Sous chef at Z Cucina

Seventh Son Brewing Co. 1101 N. Fourth St., Italian Village

DeepWood 511 N. High St., Short North 614-221-5602

Olde Towne East When a new bar called The Tavern opens in May, it’ll join a newly hopping corridor along Oak Street that’s home to Black Creek Bistro, Yellow Brick Pizza and the Angry Baker.

Corn dogs These carnival favorites have been spotted at Flip Side and as a blue-plate special at Hang Over Easy.

7 6 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l s u m m e r 2 0 1 2

Wine on tap Keeping wine in kegs and pouring it out of a tap, as Till Dynamic Fare does, is a winwin. It’s both environmentally friendly and it allows restaurants to serve more wines by the glass.

colin vent

S o u s chef , D eepwood & B r ewe r , S e v en t h son b r ew i ng Sto ry by G . A . B en ton l P hoto by jodi m i l l er

C

olin Vent is always looking ahead. So, having determined food would soon be in his future, as part of Vent’s final thesis show to attain a fine arts degree from OSU he not only produced beautiful ceramic pieces, but also cooked artful amusebouches to be eaten from them.

Later, after a stint as sous chef at Z Cucina, Vent ventured forward with Z’s head chef, Brian Pawlak, to help launch the innovative DeepWood.

Now Vent, along with likeminded friends Collin Castore, Jen Burton and Travis Spencer, is primed to start production at Seventh Son Brewing Co. (known as Born Brewing before they ran into trademark troubles with Budweiser, whose Rolling Rock uses the tagline “Born small town”).

“Brewing is a lot like cooking, where you have a dream idea of how something should taste that you try to reach through constant tweaking,” Vent said.

Using sharp culinary skills to build flavors and develop

“Brewing is a lot like cooking. You have a dream of how something should taste and you reach it through constant tweaking.” colin vent, Brewer, Seventh Son Brewing recipes, Vent and his team have devised two signature brews they hope will kickstart their new enterprise.

They’re called Black Sheep (“not quite a porter, not quite a stout”) and Seventh Son— an American Strong Ale that’s “not quite a barley wine, not quite an IPA.” Similar to the food at DeepWood, these first beers were designed to be familiar yet distinct.

Looking ahead—as always—Vent sees potential Seventh Son dinners at DeepWood. He’d also love food trucks to visit the Italian Village brewery so customers could enjoy their hot grub with cold beers while seated inside the cozy new space.

Veggie burgers

Late-night grub

Northstar Burger is the veteran of the housemade veggie burger scene, but we dig the newcomers at Graffiti Burger and Bodega too.

Hooray for post-bar food options like delicious Mikey’s pizza by the slice and yummy Backdoor Burritos from the Da Levee guys.

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tastemakers

Culinary hero

Alana Shock Favorite food city

Los Angeles Favorite kitchen gadget

Vitamix

Ages: Crader, 33; Lovell, 32 Neighborhood

German Village Previous gigs

General manager at Barrio, Due Amici, The Rossi (Crader); Bartender at Elevator, Press Grill (Lovell)

harvest pizzeria 495 S. Fourth St., German Village 614-824-1769

Styling by: rendezvous salon

Microbreweries

Po’Boys

The local craft brew scene has always been strong, but recently it’s downright booming. Along with Seventh Son brews, watch for local beers on tap from Four String Brewery, Zauber Brewery, Hoof Hearted Brewing, Buckeye Lake Brewery and Oval Brewing Company. Whew.

We’ve been loving the creative daily po’boy specials at Flatiron, and the classic Southern sub sandwiches are popping up on trendy menus like De-Novo’s, too.

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Pub grub makeovers Andrew Smith worked his magic at the Rossi, transforming the place from a burgers-and-pizza spot to an exciting culinary destination.

chris crader & Bethany Lovell O wne r s , H a r v es t p i z z e r i a

Story by she l l ey mann l P hoto by jodi m i ll e r

H

arvest is a pizzeria, yes, but it’s much more than that.

It’s locally sourced ingredients, many grown at the owners’ small Canal Winchester farm. It’s a menu that changes every few months to reflect the season. It’s craft beers and fun cocktails. It’s a perfectly curated selection of small-plate appetizers and desserts.

That this charming German Village spot feels more like a fine-dining restaurant than a pizza joint isn’t surprising, seeing as owners Chris Crader and fiancee Bethany Lovell learned every aspect of the dining business while helping to open some of the city’s best-known restaurants— Elevator, Barrio, Due Amici.

Crader is a self-defined pizza junkie who spent years perfecting his pies, dating back to when he lived with Elevator Manager Will Triplett.

“It’s funny,” Triplett said.

“He used to always make

“They’ve really embraced the local food scene.”

★★★★ Still the best Chinese restaurant in Town!

“Superior” “TOP TEN BEST” - The Columbus Dispatch

Will Triplett, General manager, Elevator pizzas, experimenting with doughs and ingredients at the house.”

Harvest’s executive chef Matt Owens has helped bring Crader’s dream pizzas to reality—wood-fired pies with bubbly, charred crusts, the perfect ratio of sauce to cheese and tantalizing topping combinations.

That keen eye to detail is what’s made Harvest successful. So successful, in fact, that expansion plans began almost immediately after the pizzeria opened in July.

Curio at Harvest, a bar that’ll double as a spillover waiting area, will serve handcrafted cocktails and bar snacks to customers who happily endure hour-plus waits for tables in the tiny dining room.

Pour-over coffee The old-fashioned slow brewing method has taken off at coffee shops including Luck Bros. and Cafe Brioso.

Asian Fine dining since 1982

Dine in or Carry out Private Party Room Available

Hunan Lion 2038 Bethel Rd. 614-459-3933

Hunan House 2350 E. DublinGranville Rd. 614-895-3330

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tastemakers

Culinary hero

Grant Achatz Favorite ingredient

Vermouth

Post-work drink

Fernet Branca Age: 37

Neighborhood

German Village Previous gigs

Bartender at Giuseppe’s, Eleven, Elevator

curio at harvest 495 S. Fourth St., German Village 614-824-1769

“I like to drink, and therefore I like to make drinks.”

Travis Owens, Owner, Curio at Harvest

Ohio cheese Keep your eyes peeled for fantastic local cheeses from Canal Junction and Kokoborrego at restaurants like Alana’s, Black Creek Bistro and Granville Inn. 8 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l s u m m e r 2 0 1 2

Tacos

Bexley cocktails

Next door to the chic Little Palace, the Rossi group has plans to open a Latin-flavored bar called El Camino Inn specializing in cheap tacos. Oh, and we adore the duck confit and short rib tacos from Thurber Bar’s new menu.

The east side neighborhood is turning into a mixed-drink destination on par with the Short North. Besides forward-thinking drinks at Giuseppe’s, try whiskey cocktails at the new Barrel 44 and sake drinks at Moshi Sushi.

Travis owens O wne r / ba r t ende r c u r i o a t ha r v es t

Story by she l l ey mann l P hotoS by jodi m ill e r

D

uring Travis Owens’ four-year tenure behind the bar, Giuseppe’s Ritrovo went from being a popular neighborhood spot with above-average Italian fare to a destination for wellcrafted cocktails.

It’s a remarkable thing to build buzz around a 16-yearold restaurant in the suburbs, and Owens deserves much of the credit. Needless to say, we can’t wait to see what he does with a place of his own. Owens will head up Curio at Harvest, a cocktail lounge attached to the city’s hippest new pizza place.

After more than a decade spent bartending, Owens finally got the freedom at Giuseppe’s to create the kinds of drinks he loves—Southern-influenced concoctions made with unusual liquors, housemade syrups and neat bitters.

At Curio, he plans to take a culinary approach to the drinks, using many of the same fresh herbs and locally grown produce found on Harvest’s pizzas. Harvest

owner Chris Crader has worked with Owens in the past, and he’s stoked to have snagged him to run Curio.

“No one has been more passionate about cocktails in the city. In the country, really,” Crader said. “He follows the same mantra we do with our pizzas—there’s only a few ingredients in a pizza, so they have to be great.”

Meanwhile, Owens’ legacy will live on at Giuseppe’s, where the crop of young bartenders he assembled, including rising star Kendyl Meadows, continues on.

Gourmet burgers Easton’s newest restaurant, Flip Side, doesn’t just do burgers. They do Ohio-raised, grass-fed beef burgers on brioche buns with toppings like date-applewood-bacon aioli.

Nominated for Best Seafood and Best New Restaraunt by Columbus Alive readers.

Nominated for 10 Best New Restaurants

by Columbus Monthly

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN WORTHINGTON

Nightly Specials

Experience the stunning variety of fresh seafood, steak, and pasta selections at Rivage Atlantique 652 High St. Worthington, OH 614-505-7779 • Reservations Accepted www.rivageatlantique.com

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tastemakers Styling by: rendezvous salon

alexis randolph so u s chef , e l l a

Story by beth stallings l Photo by Alysia burton

A

lexis Randolph never thought she could make a career out of cooking—an odd statement for the sous chef at Ella, who has only ever worked in a kitchen.

In her first job, at 15, she made breakfast at Thurn’s Bakery and Deli in German Village. In college, she enrolled in the Culinary Apprenticeship program at Columbus State.

But all the while, she thought about maybe becoming an athletic trainer or mixed-media artist.

“It took me a while to realize this was my calling,” she said.

But she did, in the kitchen at G. Michael’s. Here, one of the only notable female chefs in the city (a thought she’d never really considered) was pushed for the first time.

At first, Randolph could barely make a butter sauce. Soon, she was breaking down whole pigs and half cows, learning the ins and outs of lowcountry cuisine from Chef David

Late-night snack

Wings

Guilty pleasure

Bourbon and dark chocolate Favorite ingredient

Fennel

Granville After a few high-profile closures (Del Mar, Short Story), the college town’s dining scene is suddenly bustling again.

Granville Inn has a new chef and menu, an M alum opened Italian bistro Bella, and Snapshots uses local, organic ingredients on its artisan sandwiches.

Proper ice cubes Barrel 44 and Pub Polaris keep giant cubes on hand to prevent watery cocktails.

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Tetzloff.

“Her work ethic was the first thing I noticed, and her willingness to do whatever was required to get the job done,” Tetzloff said. “She’s a hard worker and really detailed.”

Now, she’s applying her love for layering flavors using local ingredients into the artfully inspired dishes at New Albany’s Ella.

Here, she’s hoping to learn new flavor profiles, a little molecular gastronomy from Chef Travis Hyde, and more about the business side of a restaurant.

Why? Because she hopes she’ll be running her own someday, preferably a gourmet soup-and-sandwich joint with her chef husband.

Age: 28

Neighborhood

New Albany Previous gig

Sous chef at G. Michael’s

ella 266 E. Main St., New Albany 614-855-4600

Gastropubs Lots of places claim to be gastropubs (i.e. bars with a surprisingly great food menus) but few actually pull it off. Props to the neat new gastropubby menu at Thurber’s Bar in the Westin Downtown.

Voted Best Greek Restaurant for 8 years in a row by Columbus Monthly!

Check out our new Patio!

Party Room seating for up to 60 people. Perfect for graduation celebrations!

660 North High St. Columbus, Ohio 43215 • 614-463-1111

Happy Hour: Mon-Fri 4 - 6:30 pm (dine in only)

www.happygreek.com

HOUSE OF JAPAN Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar

Flaming onion volcano, shrimp tails flying, table-side cooking, and chefs performing tricks are just some of the unique experiences you’ll have while dining at the House of Japan.

DUBLIN

POLARIS

614-792-2445

614-781-1776

6153 Parkcenter Circle 8701 Sancus Blvd.

Dublin, OH 43017 Columbus, OH 43240

Private Event Room Available.

www.houseofjapanohio.com

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tastemakers

Jennie scheinbach & Sarah Bryant O wne r s , P a t t y ca k e B a k e r y

Story by Robi n Dav i s l P hoto by A lys i a B u rton

J

ennie Scheinbach has been the public face of Pattycake Bakery, the cuttingedge vegan bakery she launched in 2005. But all that will change when she turns the whole business into a worker-owned cooperative in anticipation of the opening of a full-service restaurant.

City Beet is slated to open in spring 2013 in the realty office adjacent to Pattycake, serving a vegan menu of breakfast all day and lunch.

Scheinbach will get some help running things from a collective of equal partners— as many as 20 once all is said and done—including Sarah Bryant, who currently does marketing for Pattycake.

“It takes the pressure off Jennie,” Bryant said. “Opening a restaurant is a huge endeavor.”

Not that Scheinbach is afraid of huge endeavors.

She started Pattycake out of her home nine years ago to provide vegan baked goods, which were hard to come by

in Columbus. Business grew so quickly, she moved it into its current High Street space.

Now City Beet will fill a similar void, offering vegan dishes with a twist.

“We want to have accessible, nourishing, local food,” Scheinbach said. “It’s going to be vegan, but we’re not pushing that. We want anyone to be able to enjoy it.”

Expect super-healthy salads, smoothies, nut butters and fresh-baked breads and a fast-casual vibe that’ll lend itself to everyday dining.

Ages: Scheinbach, 37; Bryant, 30 Neighborhood

Clintonville Future gig

Owners, City Beet Cafe

Pattycake Bakery 3009 N. High St., Clintonville; 614-784-2253

Raw bars Columbus has long been lacking in the fresh seafood department. Rivage Atlantique and 89 Fish upped the ante with extensive oyster and shellfish menus, but The Pearl, a Cameron Mitchell-run oyster bar going into the old Burgundy Room space this fall, should be the raw bar we’ve been waiting for.

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Late-night snack

Hounddog’s Guilty pleasure

Orange sticky buns Favorite food city

Portland

Styling by: rendezvous salon

Fancy cookies They’re the new fancy cupcake. See: Rogue Bakery, Cookie Cravings, The Batch Bakery and Yellow Duck Cookies.

Bourbon Wild game dinners

Bier gardens

Forget wine dinners.

We’re all about meals paired with high-proof liquor, like Sage’s Wild Game dinner.

Can’t wait to sip beers on The Pint House patio in the old Voodoo Denim Lounge space in the Short North.

Wild boar sausage at G. Michael’s. Kangaroo at De-Novo Bistro. And entire multicourse dinners themed around wild game at Refectory and Sage. Yes, yes, yes.

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entree

tastemakers

mike gadd

coo k , sage ame r i can b i s t r o Story by she l l ey M ann l P hoto by jodi m i ll e r

T

oward the end of a three-and-a-halfyear stint as sous chef at L’Antibes— an unusually long tenure in the restaurant business— Mike Gadd was creating his own multicourse tasting menus and pulling off entire wine dinners.

Gadd has big ambitions that include eventually opening his own restaurant, but he isn’t above the dirty work—he even washes dishes. It’s that mix of talent, big ideas and humility that was attractive to Chef Bill Glover, Gadd’s new boss at Sage.

“I see a lot of myself in him,” Glover said. “He has the ambition to do what I’m doing.”

What attracted Gadd to Sage was its intimate feel.

“I like that it’s a small kitchen,” he said. “You’re not serving 200 people a night, so you can really showcase delicate, intricate food.”

Gadd’s classically French cooking style was honed while working alongside Chef Matthew Litzinger at L’Antibes. He also picked up lots of inspiration during a

week spent in Manhattan as a guest chef at culinary master Thomas Keller’s Per Se. “I completely changed my plating style after working with Per Se’s chef de cuisine Eli Kaimeh,” Gadd said. “It’s much tighter, I’m playing around with different colors, elevations. It’s all about playing with your senses.”

Culinary hero

Thomas Keller Post-work drink

Blanton’s Manhattan Favorite ingredient

Duck

Age: 24

Neighborhood

North Campus Previous gigs

Sous chef at L’Antibes; cook at Rigsby’s and Rosendales

sage 2653 N. High St., North Campus 614-267-7243

Microroasting

Market 65-style

Who knew there were enough local coffee roasters for an entire North Market festival? Newcomers like Thunderkiss and Backroom Coffee Roasters joined longtime roasters like Cafe Brioso and Luck Bros. at this year’s inaugural North Market Coffee Roast.

Here’s how the Downtown salad spot does it differently than Chipotle-style, which we’re sick of: locally sourced ingredients, seasonal vegetables, recommended combos in addition to DIY salads, and employees who actually engage with their loyal clientele.

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We fell in love at Old Mohawk!

Locally Grown Sunday: 8oz Sirloin, Mashed Potatoes & Gravy and Green Beans - $9.99 all day Monday: Pick-a-pasta night - $9.99 Tuesday: Two for $10.00 quesadillas Wednesday: Lasagna - $8.99 after 4pm Thursday: Homemade Meatloaf all day long

Olde Mohawk Restaurant 821 Mohawk St., German Village • 444.7204 Open every day www.theoldmohawk.com Open Sunday & Monday 11am - 10pm • Tuesday - Thursday 11am - 11pm • Friday & Saturday 11am - 12am

Downtown Columbus Open 8am - 8pm Monday - Friday 65 E. State St., Columbus 614.564.6565 www.marketsixtyfive.com

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tastemakers

Culinary hero

Julia Child Post-work drink

Tequila & fresh grapefruit juice Favorite cheap eat

Cheese arepa

Styling by: rendezvous salon

Novelty pop Second lives Faygo used to be relegated to the dollar store and gas stations. Now it’s being served at some of the hippest restaurants in town, like Harvest Pizzeria and Mikey’s Late Night Slice.

We’re thrilled that longtime favorites like Little Palace, Jury Room and Michael’s Goody Boy have been bought and remodeled, and not only because we love vintage neon signs.

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Meat on sticks Find skewers on the menus at Sidebar 122 and at Freshstreet.

IO PAT PEN O OW

angie thead0

N

owne r / chef , t he coop Story by Jill Moorhead l Photo by Alysia Burton

A

ngie Theado spends her days cooped up—literally—in The Coop, perched in a parking lot adjacent to Glen Echo Ravine.

Her daily offerings featuring a variation of poultry or egg stretch the definition of food truck fare in Columbus.

With a culinary degree from Columbus State and nearly three years at Alana’s Food and Wine on her CV, Theado dishes out meals that rival those found within the city’s best restaurants.

You’ll find duck breast with shiitakes, bok choy and udon; a French omelette sandwich; and chorizo hash topped with fried duck egg.

She cooks her Japaneseand French-technique fare

Age: 31

Neighborhood

Campus

Previous gigs

Sous chef at Alana’s, Elevator, Bravo!

the coop 2701 Indianola Ave., Clintonville 614-581-9353

just two feet away from her customers and without the luxuries that other chefs enjoy. (A grill. A freezer. A dishwasher. A toilet.)

Limited in kitchen resources but not in aspirations, Theado has several goals.

The first is to get a variance so her 1984 circus trailer can roost in its spot overnight.

Next up, a restaurant, with the same farm-to-table ethos found at The Coop.

Expect dinner entrees and more local sourcing. (Even her celebrated Coloradosourced yak burgers have a Columbus connection: The proprietors of the Hey Hey Yak Ranch are the kids of the infamous German Village dive of the same name.)

Former boss Alana Shock does not doubt Theado’s ability to follow through on these dreams.

“It’s one of those things that it’s clear whether you have it or you don’t, and she does,” Shock said. “There are plenty of creative people.

But if you can execute great food and manage the financial goals and you are a people person and can coordinate all that, you’ve got it.

Angie has it.”

614.751.6467

1282 Hill Rd. N.Pickerington, OH www.senorpatron.com

COME AND TRY OUR AUTHENTIC MEXICAN CUISINE Happy Hour 3-7pm • Great Specials • Catering Services

Food trucks at bars Awesome idea that’s long overdue: parking food trucks at bars without kitchens. Mobile Mondays lets you munch on, say, Tatoheads’ fries with your craft beers at St. James Tavern.

614.785.6199

1047 Polaris Pkwy Columbus, OH www.senortequilaspolaris.com

entree

iPad menus So far Aoi sushi lounge is the only early adopter of iPad menu technology, but we hope it starts catching on at other restaurants. Looking at pretty food pictures is addictive.

tastemakers

craft Beer in cans Cans used to be reserved for Bud Light and the ilk.

Now trendy brews can be found in cans at places like Hubbard Grille.

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Culinary cocktails Foodie-slash-bartender Nicolene Schwartz kicked off the local craze for drinks that use ingredients from the kitchen—find her creations at MoJoe Lounge and Latitude 41.

magdiale wolmark owne r / chef , t i l l

Story by G. A . B en ton l PhotoS by Alysi a burton

T

he man with the dragon tattoo embracing his face came to Columbus to study tai chi—a martial art he’d succeed at even when competing in China. Being wiry, restless and intense probably helped. Yet those qualities also led Magdiale Wolmark—after a decade of widespread accolades—to close the great Dragonfly Neo-V (“I’m over this,” he confessed), his groundbreaking, plant-based restaurant.

Lessons learned during tai chi would play a part again— through its quests for health, discipline and perfection— when he decided to open the herbivore- and carnivorefriendly Till.

If you haven’t been (go!),

Age: 46 Neighborhood

Short North Favorite ingredient

Stinging nettles Post-work drink

Staropramen lager Favorite food city

Philadelphia

Street food hubs Dinin’ Hall, a new food truck hub at 400 West Rich in Franklinton, will give trucks a permanent place to park and diners a roof to eat under.

Fancy ramen This on-fire-in-NYC trend can be found at places like DeepWood and Tensuke Market. It’s Japanese noodle soup made special with addons, like roasted duck, pork belly and soft-boiled eggs.

Previous gigs

Owner of Dragonfly Neo-V, On the Fly

Till dynamic fare 247 King Ave., Victorian Village 614-298-9986

Till is a pioneering casual eatery with a focus on painstaking techniques (expect custardy scratch-made tofu and stunningly fresh handchopped hamburger) and top-notch biodynamic ingredients (think ultra-sustainable and super-organic).

“Quality is objective—you can taste it. And you can see much higher standards on biodynamic farms,” Wolmark said.

He practices those same standards now in the biodynamic garden he started behind Till, from which he harvests special-seed-grown herbs and vegetables.

Never content to stand still, Wolmark is experimenting with—and perfecting— charcuterie products that combine meat with vegetables (like game-changing potted shiitakes with bone marrow), and a new handmade donut-specializing bakery called Glaze is poised to brighten the mornings of Columbusites.

If you’re wondering how those donuts might be, consider how Wolmark explained his aesthetics: “It’s all about intent. If you put love in your food, it’ll taste better.”

Bare-bones operations How great is Jeni’s walk-up German Village shop? So tiny it fits just two people and a supply of popular flavors, it’s the epitome of making every inch count.

Photos: Crave file photos

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Barrel 44 Whiskey collection 2232 E. Main St., Bexley 614-824-1058 barrel44.com

Story by Sh ell ey Mann Photos by jodi mill er

Straight Up Thanks to its dizzying selection of top-shelf bottles, Barrel 44 in the Short North quickly became the city’s whiskey destination. Now the Barrel guys are sharing the love with the ’burbs in a new Bexley location. And while the gastropubstyle food is getting the most attention, the list of premium whiskeys, bourbons and Scotches is befitting of the iconic space, formerly home to Bexley Monk.

drink

tiki

Toast to the Tropics

Tiki drinks will reign at Liz Lessner’s newest project, Grass Skirt. In anticipation, mix up the ultimate summer cocktail at home.

Story by Fa i t h D u r a nd l P h oto S by j od i m i l ler

P

ineapple and rum, torchlight and swaying grass skirts—the tropical fever dream of classic tiki culture has deep local roots in Columbus.

“Tiki is part of Columbus’ history,” Carmen Owens of Columbus Food League explained over Mai Tais, in a home tiki bar festooned with carved mermaids and conch shells.

The bar belongs to Jim “Chisel Slinger” Robinson, a founder of tiki society The Fraternal Order of Moai. He and co-founder Matt “Kuku Ahu” Thatcher are lending their expertise to Grass Skirt, a forthcoming addition to the Liz Lessner-founded group of restaurants, and the only bar in Columbus that’ll boast both a waterfall and a volcano.

This is pure South Seas fantasy, but it’s founded on local memory thanks to Kahiki, the now-shuttered Polynesian restaurant that captivated tiki-lovers in Columbus and beyond.

“There are so many people in Columbus with fond memories of the Kahiki,” Owens said. “Because of Kahiki, tiki is both exotic and local. It combines absurdism, kitsch, surrealism, memory—so many feel-good things in one place.”

Grass Skirt won’t open until later this summer, but it’s not the only way to explore tiki’s delights. Tiki drinks themselves brim with fruit, rum and a seductive balance of sweet and sour.

Whether mixed over a bar or at home, they offer the fantasy of the tropics any time, any place.

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All recipes courtesy of Matt “Kuku Ahu” Thatcher of local tiki society The Fraternal Order of Moai and Carmen Owens of Grass Skirt.

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drink

tiki

Carmen’s Coconut Sangria (Makes 1 drink) Sangria, usually associated with Spanish cuisine, gets a tiki twist with coconut cream, rum and lime.

Ingredients l 3/4 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice l 8 oz. Carmen’s Sangria, plus a spoonful of fruit (recipe follows) l 3/4 oz. coconut cream, such as Coco Real l 1 oz. Cruzan light rum l Pineapple wedge and fresh mint, to garnish

Combine all ingredients and stir with ice until chilled and blended.

Pour into large wine goblet and garnish with pineapple wedge and mint sprig.

For Carmen’s Sangria: To make 3 cups (24 oz.) sangria, mix 1 (750ml) bottle inexpensive pinot grigio with 3 cups chopped pineapple, 1 cup chopped apple, 1 cup halved red grapes, 1 oz. fresh ginger slices and 2 oz. apricot brandy. Stir and refrigerate for 48 hours. Use within 3 days.

Pele’s Curse (Makes 1 drink) Despite the name, we think Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire, lightning and volcanoes, smiles upon this playful drink infused with sweet pineapple, spicy pepper and soda pop syrup.

Ingredients l 1/2 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice l 1 oz. Cruzan vanilla rum l 2 oz. pineapple-peppercorn-infused rum (recipe follows) l 2 oz. vanilla soda, such as Boylan Natural Creme Vanilla Soda l 3/4 oz. Tahitian Treat syrup (instructions follow) l Maraschino or Luxardo cherries, pineapple wedge and pineapple

leaves, to garnish Shake lime juice, vanilla rum, and infused light rum with crushed ice, and pour into a highball glass. Top with vanilla soda and stir, then drizzle slowly with Tahitian Treat syrup. Garnish with maraschino or Luxardo cherries, pineapple wedge, and pineapple leaves.

For Pineapple-Peppercorn-Infused Rum: To make 3 cups (24 oz.) infused rum, mix 1 (750ml) bottle Cruzan light rum with 3 cups chopped pineapple and 1/4 cup lightly cracked black peppercorns.

Stir and cover. Refrigerate at least 1 night and up to 4 weeks.

For Tahitian Treat Syrup: To make 1 cup (8 oz.) syrup, pour 3 cups Tahitian Treat soda into a 1-quart saucepan and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 1 cup. Refrigerate for up to 4 weeks (add 1.5 oz. vodka to make it shelf-stable for a longer period of time).

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RUSTIC. URBAN. FOOD. “Seasonal Driven, Farm to Fork Comfort Classics with an Urban Edge”

LOCAL COLOR

Columbus’ Most Award Winning Restaurant

Photo by Ely Brothers

RESTAURANT & BISTRO

410 E Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266 Follow the location of our Mobile Kitchen on Facebook and Twitter www.skilletruf.com witter

1092 BETHEL ROAD, COLUMBUS 43220 614-451-9774 REFECTORY.COM

ENJOY OUR MID-WEEK BISTRO MENU

CATERING • RECEPTIONS • BANQUETS

drink

tiki Classic Mai Tai (Makes 1 drink) Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron invented this iconic drink in the ‘40s at his California restaurant.

Ingredients l 3/4 oz. fresh lime juice l 2 oz. Ron Atlantico Private

Cask rum l 1/2 oz. orgeat syrup, such as

one made by Torani or Monin l 1/2 oz. Orange Curacao l Pineapple wedge,

maraschino cherry and fresh mint, to garnish Shake well with ice and pour into double old-fashioned glass.

Serve with spent lime shell, and garnish with pineapple wedge and maraschino cherry, and a fresh mint sprig.

Tiki basics What makes a tiki drink… a tiki drink? “Balance,” says Matt “Kuku Ahu” Thatcher. In a tiki drink, the sweet to sour ratio is all-important.

“The classic recipe for a ‘tropical’,” he says, “was one part sour, two sweet, three strong, four weak.”

The aroma and the appearance of a tiki drink are also key: fruit and herbs are strung into elaborate garnishes that enhance drama.

Also? Most tropical drinks have a serious amount of booze. Their balance of sweet and sour goes down easily— but don’t be fooled.

“Most have at least 2 ounces of 80 proof liquors,” says Thatcher.

“It’s like getting two beers at once.”

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Monte Carlo

It’s Summertime at Weiland’s #2 Local Food Shop #1 Beer Shop #1 Liquor Store in alive’s 2012 Best of Columbus

Italian Kitchen

Homemade Traditional Italian for over 40 years

Now Serving Prime Rib Every Friday and Saturday Night Catering - Lunch - Dinner Dine In or Take Out

Great on the Grill!

• Homemade brats, Italian sausage, chorizo • Chicken sausages • Freshly-ground beef patties

An Amazing Selection of Beer, Wine and Spirits

• Over 800 domestic, craft and imported beers • Hard-to-find spirits, including bitters • Over 1,400 wine labels

All Kinds of Homemade Salads for Cookouts and Picnics

Everything from old school favorites like macaroni salad to Creole potato salad.

610 West Schrock Road • Westerville, Ohio

(614) 890-2061

www.montecarloitaliankitchen.com Closed Sunday

FINE MEATS

FRESH SEAFOOD

3600 Indianola Avenue • 614-267-9878 www.weilandsgourmetmarket.com

Come Taste Our New Menu!

German Village Powell 197 Thurman Ave. 5 South Liberty St. 614.444.EASY 614.888.EASY

SATURDAY & SUNDAY

BRUNCHES 9-3

HAPPY HOUR MONDAY-FRIDAY 3-7 $4 WELL • $1.75 DOMESTICS $2 OFF DRAFTS • HALF OFF APPS

LATE NIGHT SPECIALS MONDAY - THURSDAY 9PM - CLOSE $4 1/2LB ALL AMERICAN BURGER $4 APPS $4 22OZ DRAFTS

drink

tiki My Blue Hawaii (Makes 1 drink) What would a tiki bar be without one blue drink? This light, sweet cocktail is no gimmick, with a balanced mix of juice, brandy, and—of course—rum.

Ingredients l 2 oz. Appleton Estate White rum l 1/2 oz. Blue Curacao l 1/2 oz. apricot brandy l 3 oz. pineapple juice l 1/2 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice l 1/2 oz. rock candy syrup, such as Amoretti l 3 dashes Fee Bros. Peach Bitters l Orange wheel and pineapple wedge, to garnish

Shake all ingredients with ice, pour into highball or hurricane glass, and garnish with orange wheel and pineapple wedge.

Ahu’s Navy Grog #2 (Makes 1 drink) This is a splendid example of the sweet-sour-strong balance in a tiki drink, with a sour lime and grapefruit start, a sweet maple middle, and a strong, alcoholic finish.

Ingredients l 3/4 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice l 3/4 oz. fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice or Simply Grapefruit l 3/4 oz. Grade A maple syrup l 4 dashes Angostura bitters l 1/4 oz. Fernet Branca l 2 oz. dark rum, such as Myers’s Original Dark l Orange or lime wheel and fresh mint, to garnish

Combine all ingredients and shake well with ice. Pour into double oldfashioned glass and garnish with orange or lime wheel and mint sprig.

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Can you climb the Thurmanator?

Thank You Crave for recognizing Pattycake and City Beet as Tastemakers!

3009 N High St • (614) 784-2253 www.pattycakebakery.com

CASA

SAZ N

Cachapas:

TRY US ONCE, AND YOU’LL NEVER BE ABLE TO STAVE OFF THE CRAVE! (614) 443-1570 • 183 Thurman Ave.

StaveOffTheCrave.com

• Gluten Free!

• Homemade, always fresh, never frozen, no chemicals • meat, veggie or cheese *Ask about our House Specialties

Pabellon Venezolano • Arepas • Burritos • Fried Plantains • Subs, Salads, Soups

*Call ahead to pick up your order!

Joinn us Joi us oonn

Monday - Friday, 7am - 3:30pm Saturday & Sunday - closed

49 North High St. (614) 221-8311

Just south of Gay St. Plenty of meter parking

drink

Brunch

Custom cocktails Options are endless at build-your-own Bloody Mary bars Story by sh e l l E y M a nn l P h otos by j o d i M i ller

T

he Bloody Mary is the ultimate signature drink— everyone has their own favorite combination of libations and mixers and add-ons. Build-your-own Bloody Mary bars let you keep tweaking until you find a cocktail that suits your every whim.

At Due Amici, a roving bartender whips up custom creations from a cart filled with Bloody Mary fixings. At Pub Polaris, brunchers specify preferences on a sushi-style checkbox menu.

And at Matt the Miller’s Tavern, customers do everything but pour the vodka as they assemble their dream drinks from an impressive buffet of ingredients.

Everett Zoog, the brunch bartender at Matt the Miller’s in Grandview, sets out a “smorgasbord of garnishes” on Sunday mornings. Each Bloody Mary here starts with Ultimat Vodka, but from there the sky’s the limit.

“You really can’t go wrong,” Zoog said. “I tell people to treat it like a salad—add on cheeses and meats and veggies.”

The biggest factor to consider is spice level. Most prepared Bloody Mary mixes, including the Zing Zang variety Matt the Miller’s uses, aren’t as spicy as you’d think.

Instead, it’s best to add some punch with lots of hot sauce and pungent horseradish.

“A lot of people like ’em really spicy,” Zoog said. “The more hung over they are, the more spicy.”

Basic Bloody Mary To a pint glass filled with ice, add 1.5 ounces vodka and enough Bloody Mary mix to reach about 1.5 inches from the top. Add: l Splash of Worcestershire l Dash of fresh horseradish l Sprinkle of ground black pepper l Shake of celery salt l Splash of Tabasco l Squeeze of lemon

Variations on a Theme If you like it hot...

Add habanero sauce and some crushed red pepper

For an Asian flair...

Add soy sauce and sriracha

If you’re a salt fiend...

Add dill pickle juice and lots of olives

Seafood lovers...

Make an Old Bay Bloody Mary with Clamato plus Old Bay seasoning

If you’re a beer person...

Add a shot of Guinness.

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Matt the Miller’s Tavern 1400 Grandview Ave., Grandview 6725 Avery-Muirfield Dr., Dublin; mtmtavern.com

When:

Matt’s Ultimat Bloody Mary Bar is open 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. on Sundays

To drink:

The list of ingredients set out on this Bloody Mary bar is breathtaking: Tomato juice, Bloody Mary mix, Clamato, horseradish, Worcestershire,

sriracha, habanero sauce, Frank’s Red Hot, A1 Steak Sauce, soy sauce, pickle juice, celery salt, bacon salt, ground mace, celery, olives, pickles, jalapenos, banana peppers, asparagus, okra, green beans, cocktail onions, cherry tomatoes, pepper jack and pepperoni. Whew.

To eat:

The tavern does a $15-perperson brunch buffet on Sundays. Best bets foodwise are fluffy Belgian waffles, made-to-order omelets and the restaurant’s popular flatbreads, with toppings like Chipotle Shrimp and Pear & Gorgonzola.

Due Amici

cilantro and pepperoncini.

To eat:

67 E. Gay St., Downtown 614-224-9373; due-amici.com

When:

Bloody Mary Brunch runs from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

To drink:

Cocktails mixed tableside!

How swanky. Most drinks use the bar’s own super-spicy pepper-infused vodka. From there, choose from all the usual suspects plus some fun foodie add-ins like garlic, basil, Matt’s Ultimat Bloody Mary Bar at Matt the Miller’s in Grandview

Try the Due Brunch Burger, one of a handful of brunch dishes that can be paired with a Bloody Mary for $15. It’s served on an English muffin and topped with bacon, a fried egg, white cheddar and basil aioli.

Pub Polaris 1554 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris experiencethepub.com 614-781-7829

When:

Create Your Own Bloody Mary Brunch runs from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

To drink:

Vodka aficionados should check out the Pub, where we found the selection to be biggest among the build-yourown bars. The gold standard, Absolut Peppar, is joined by Stoli, Three Olives, Grey Goose, Ketel One and a house infused vodka. Among the more interesting garnishes: cocktail shrimp, goat cheese-stuffed olives and English cucumbers.

To eat:

Continue with the customizable theme and order a build-yourown breakfast sandwich. They all start with a great buttery pretzel roll and a fried egg, and from there try the sausage and cheddar.

Everett Zoog’s Favorite Bloody Mary Basic Bloody Mary recipe, plus: lots of horseradish, sriracha and as many garnishes as he can squeeze in—pickles, beef sticks, havarti, spicy beans… s u mm e r 2 0 1 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l 1 0 5

drink

relax

tea for two Plenty of restaurants offer teapots for sharing, a tradition beloved around the world Story by Beth Stallings l Photo by will shilling

ZenCha 982 N. High St., Short North 2396 E. Main St., Bexley zen-cha.com

S

haring a spot of tea isn’t a new idea and it’s no wonder. There’s something euphoric in the soothing aroma of the hot herbed water, the warming sensation that tingles through the body.

Pair that with some pleasant conversation and you’ve got one splendid tea time.

Try sharing a savory sip at ZenCha Tea Salon in the Short North or Bexley, where a robust tea menu representing roughly 10 regions (plus herbal and fruit varieties) proves tea’s worldly popularity.

Each variety is served as it would be in its home country.

Order the tangy, green-colored Spiral

Jade, and in true Chinese fashion, a small porcelain pot brews one cup of loose-leaf tea at a time. Once brewed, tea is poured into handle-less cups adorned with blue artwork.

Order a British variety (we enjoyed the citrusy Lady Londonderry) and you’ll get a glass pot with tea cups and saucers. A Japanese order means hot water in a cast iron kettle. And so on through the Middle East, France and the red teas of Africa.

Regardless of the region, one pot of tea is a solid three cups to share—the perfect amount, especially at ZenCha, where you’ll want to try more than one.

E x t r a S i ps For afternoon tea…

Fancy tea the way the Brits do it? You know, black and paired with scones and clotted cream? Try one of these: Victorian Tea in the quaint tea room of Biddie’s Coach House in Dublin, Afternoon Tea set to piano music at Mozart’s Bakery & Piano Cafe in Clintonville or the lighter Cambridge Cream Tea at Cambridge Tea House in Grandview.

For a Far East feel…

Don’t be fooled by its strip mall exterior. Ying’s Teahouse & Yum Yum in Clintonville is a charming spot to enjoy tea served in delicate ceramic pots. A small menu features neat teas ranging from orchidscented ooling to the exotic Bi luochuang.

For tea to go…

Tehku Tea Company in Dublin has its own tea shop where you can taste and learn about vast varieties of black, green, white, oolong and herbal selections.

Like what you taste? Leaf teas are available for purchase.

menu

PERFECT PAIRINGS Wine

T. Murray’s Bar and Kitchen

Chateau La Graviere Bordeaux ($8 glass/$28 bottle) The white Bordeaux may be French, but its citrusy notes underscore the dish’s Floridian flavors. “The mild wine just sets it off perfectly,” Murray says.

560 S. High St., Brewery District 614-824-2301 tmurrays.com

Beer Stella Artois ($5.50 draft) “With that fish I would suggest something not too hoppy,” Murray says. The selfdescribed “lager guy” recommends the crisp Belgian pour.

Cocktail Manhattan ($9)

Signature Stirrings

Murray likes his cocktail with Maker’s Mark, Dolin sweet vermouth and a couple shakes of bitters over one big ice cube. “That is truly my drink of choice.”

Story by B R I A N L I NDA MOOD l P h oto s by j odi M iller

W

hen one of the city’s bestknown bartenders opens a restaurant, you can bet that expectations are high for well-matched drinks and dinner. But Tony Murray doesn’t feel any extra pressure.

“This part just kind of comes easy,” he says with his usual easygoing charm from a barstool in his new Brewery District eatery. “I’m real good about what I do behind the bar.”

Murray, who held court behind the polished copper top

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at Lindey’s for 22 years, left the German Village institution last year to hang his own shingle. Now, as co-owner of T. Murray’s, he continues to greet regulars by name as he stirs classic cocktails, and he also keeps an eye on the menu of pasta,

seafood, comfort favorites and bar snacks.

For Perfect Pairings, Murray recommended the Pearl Street Mahi Mahi ($22), served with corn and crab risotto, spinach and a rich, buttery beurre blanc sauce. It’s a popular treatment

that chef Chris Remley brought back from a stint in Florida.

“It can go well in the spring, summer or fall,” Murray says.

“It’s just one of those dishes you can serve all year round. I think you need to have a signature fish dish on the menu.”

BAMBOO CAFE Come in today for a delicious variety of Thai and Vietnamese Cuisine!

774 Bethel Rd., Columbus, OH • 614.326.1950 bamboocafeonline.com

Mother’s Day Margarita & Dinner Special $5 margaritas all day • $15 dinner for 2 (Combinations #1 - #15 Only)

Polaris/ Westerville

Worthington/ CampusView

(614) 547-0246

(614) 781-0751

2127 Polaris Parkway Across from Old Germain Ampitheatre

7475 Vantage Dr. At Rt. 23 & I-270

www.elacapulcorestaurant.com

scene

Closing time

B

orn in Australia to parents from the United Kingdom, Tomos Mughan has made the most of his travels by sampling some of the world’s most savory food and drink.

Now headquartered at Downtown’s De-Novo Bistro & Bar, he’s the kind of bartender with an equal love for heavy London gin and spicy ginger beer.

“My dad is a political scientist, so he kind of bounced around countries a lot growing up—and still does,” Mughan explained. “I get to travel a lot, and eat and drink all over the world.”

Mughan is generous with his international ideas, and drinkers can sample them on a new cocktail menu that rolled out last month at DeNovo.

When he’s not shaking up something sweet, here’s where you’ll find him.

short orders

Where Tomos Mughan visits when he’s in search of something specific.

imported flavors

Tomos Mughan infuses drinks with an international flair at new Downtown hotspot De-Novo Sto ry by j o h n ross l Photo by jod i mi ller

Scotch:

Beer:

Mexican:

Indian:

“There are a lot of places that have a very serviceable selection, but if I want to go out and get stuff, it’s Wing’s without a doubt.”

“It’s always nice to go to Elevator and get that fresh, fresh, fresh beer. Mac’s in the Short North, they have some good beers too.”

“Junior’s Tacos. A new favorite place of mine is Si Senor at Long and High. It’s Latin-inspired cuisine. Good lunch place. Really cheap.”

“Indian is England’s second food—or first food now. Dosa Corner is fantastic in Upper Arlington. Taj Mahal is really good too.”

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Join us on our patio all summer long!

Tomos mughan Age: 25 Bartender

De-Novo Bistro & Bar

4675 N. High St. Columbus, OH

201 S. High St., Downtown

Hometown: Columbus

l What’s something cool

on De-Novo’s new cocktail menu?

Our ginger beer. It’s got juiced ginger, lemon juice and then a simple syrup, clove, lemongrass, pepper.

It’s really gingery. We use it in cocktails. We have a Kentucky Mule on our menu, which is Woodford Reserve, lime juice and this. I love ginger, so this is just fantastic. l What’s your favorite dish at De-Novo?

I love fish, especially raw fish, and I get the Spicy Ahi Tuna Cups here. It’s raw ahi tuna, avocados and then capers for a little crunch.

There’s a rice-paper wonton that’s deep-fried into a cup.

It’s good stuff. l After work, what’s your go-to spot to chill?

“Little Palace is good because it’s busy, but it’s not like a bar. You can sit down and enjoy cheap, good drinks.”

Got to go to Little Palace, man. It’s my most frequent spot, outside of De-Novo.

It’s good because it’s busy, but it’s not like a bar. You can sit down. Great service. It’s cheap. They have a good alcohol selection. They have ginger beer. What’s not to like? l What’s your favorite place to grab a meal right now?

Wing’s and The Rossi are my top two. That might change in a month or two.

The spinach-and-chicken wontons at Wing’s is one of the best dishes in the city, I think. I love the Butternut Squash Soup at Rossi. l Do you have a standby restaurant that you’d visit anytime?

Lindey’s in German Village is always up there, because I’ve gone there since I moved here. It’s a mainstay for me. I usually go there for happy hour, so I get stuff off their bar menu. Their sliders are really good. l You like inventing unique drinks. Where do you go for quality cocktails?

The Tom and Jerry at M is really good. I like a couple of drinks that Sage has, like the Blood and Sand, which is really nice.

(614) 447-9120

www.babushkafoods.com

Happy Dragon

Simply Great Chinese Food 277 E. Livingston Ave • German Village 614-224-1468 • happydragonlivingston.com

Graduation Made Easy!

JP’s Grad Pack is a must for any celebration!

Package includes: Vegetable Tray with Dip 8 Slabs of Ribs or 14# Pork BBQ Meatballs or Triple Treat Chicken Wings 3 Side Choices Rolls & Butter

38900

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Serves appr 40

Call 878-7422 to Order

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sweet! tall order The sexy, citrusy limoncello zabaglione drizzle is what’s immediately alluring about this shortcake dessert, a new seasonal treat at Z Cucina.

But what you’ll remember most vividly is the sweet-tart berry jam pooled on the plate. Chef Jamie George lovingly prepares that jam from scratch, just like the buttery shortcake and the zabaglione and, well, every element of every plate served at this chic Grandview spot.

Roasted Almond Shortcake Z Cucina di spirito 1368 Grandview ave., Grandview; 614-486-9200 zcucina.com

Story by S h e l l e y M a nn Photo by a lysi a Bu rto n

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