Columbus Crave

on the

e n o b y it a w e h t t a Me should be

back in business dining returns downtown

$3.99 Winter 2011

www.columbuscrave.com

www.cafeistanbul.com 3983 Worth Avenue - Easton, Columbus OH 43219 Phone: (614) 473-9144 2455 E. Main St., Bexley, OH 43209 Phone: (614) 237-9920

GIFT LOCALLY AT THE NORTH MARKET. The Barrel & Bottle • Better Earth • CaJohn’s Flavor & Fire • Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams North Market Cookware • Pure Imagination Chocolatier • The Source by Wasserstrom and 27 more

SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL ECONOMY

BY SHOPPING AT THE NORTH MARKET. Visit us for fresh, local, high quality authentic food all year long. www.facebook.com/NorthMarket @NorthMarket

www.northmarket.com 59 Spruce Street

•

Downtown Columbus

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(614) 463-9664

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open daily

Merry & Bright Holidays at the Conservatory On view November 19, 2011 - January 4, 2012

Presented by

Cartoon Cels | Candlelight Nights | Cocktails at the Conservatory | Gingerbread House Display | Sweet Turkey Craft

Dr. Seuss characters, names and all related indicia are trademarks of the 1984 Ted Geisel Trust and Š Turner Entertainment Inc. 2011. Images courtesy the Chuck Jones Center for Creativity.

1777 East Broad Street Columbus, Ohio 43203 614.645.8733 www.fpconservatory.org

BUILD. EAT. REPEAT.

Www.shafferconstruction.com| 614-488-4681

$2.50 Beer of the Month

NOVEMBER - YUENGLING BLACK & TAN • DECEMBER - GUINNESS BLACK LAGER • JANUARY - BROOKLYN WINTER ALE

Mondays All Day and All Night $5 Gyros

contents The Columbus dining magazine

Winter 2011

Starters

cover story

10 Editor’s Note 16 Craveworthy

Holiday Fine Dining

18 Scoop

Retro Christmas party at The Top

85

Shopping for Ohio artisan cheeses Chef-driven cocktails at Latitude 41, and M at Miranova’s regulars

26 Events

33 Crave Calendar

Crave’s on the scene at foodie events around town Plan out your season

Food

38 Strip Search

Spicy Szechuan food near Campus

40 Neighborhood

Bexley eats

ColumbusCrave.com

l

44 Street Eats

Yellow Boy’s Polish Boys

50 What’s Hot

Meat served on the bone

54 Required Eating

Four takes on squash

56 Made Right

Classic Caesar salads

60 Homegrown

Ohio-bred burgers

64 At Home

Peek inside the kitchen of Suisse Shop’s Darlene Jones

68 Trends

Restaurants are returning to Downtown

78 Icon

The Grumpy Gourmet turns 90

Drink

102 Seasonal

Surly Girl’s winter cocktails 110 Local Liqueur

The story behind Tessora Limone 112 Wine

Interesting bottles make great gifts 114 Beer

Growlers allow for draft beer at home 116 Coffee

Slow down with pour-over coffee 118 Closing Time

Twin chefs Josh and Jeremy Cook share their favorite places to eat

Sweet

120 Buche de Noel

An indulgent ending at The Angry Baker Cover Photo by

will shilling Contents photo: jodi Miller

Above, Bone Marrow at Sage.

On the cover, Josh Quinn and Erin Traxler at The Top. 8 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

34 S. Third St. Columbus, OH 43215 614-461-8700 ColumbusCrave.com Publisher Katie Wolfe Lloyd kwolfe@columbuscrave.com Director of Niche Publications Brian Lindamood blindamood@columbuscrave.com Editor Shelley Mann smann@columbuscrave.com Creative Director Will Shilling Design Editor Yogesh Chaudhary Photographers Alysia Burton, Jodi Miller and Eric Wagner Contributing Writers G.A. Benton, Bear Braumoeller, Robin Davis, Faith Durand, Brittany Kress, Jill Moorhead, Karina Nova, John Ross, Kristen Schmidt, Lauren Wilson and Bethia Woolf Office Manager Silvana Hildebrandt 614-461-8700 shildebrandt@columbuscrave.com ADVERTISING Niche Publications Advertising Manager Amy Bishop abishop@columbuscrave.com Restaurant Account Executive Erica Phillips ephillips@columbuscrave.com Subscriptions Don’t miss an issue: Have Crave delivered to your home.

Subscriptions are available for $10 for one year (5 issues). To order, call toll-free 855-686-2363 or visit ColumbusCrave.com.

Crave magazine is published and distributed by the Dispatch Printing Company four times a year. Crave is not responsible for unsolicited photographs, manuscripts or other materials. Reproduction of contents without express written permission is prohibited.

Copyright © 2011 The Dispatch Printing Company.

See our work at:

Lindey’s German Village • Brio Tuscan Grille Bravo Lennox Town Center • Bon Vie Café Istanbul • Bel Lago (formerly Hoover Grille) Athletic Club of Columbus - Grille Room Cup O’ Joe Lennox Town Center Johnny Buccelli’s Just to name a few...

144 East State St., Columbus, OH 43215 614-224-0343 • www.meleca.com

starters

editor’s note

Going Mad

I

Photo: jodi miller

Shelley enjoying a Manhattan at MoJoe Lounge Downtown

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t was an idea hatched over drinks, like all the best ones are: Why don’t we throw a “Mad Men”style holiday party at The Top? And then take pictures of it for the magazine?

A better question: Why not?

It’s a way to talk about holiday dining that’s more fun than a list of the restaurants open on Christmas. It’s a love letter of sorts to The Top, one of my favorite places to head when I need an escape from modern-day stresses. It’s a “Mad Men” fix to help us get through the show’s long hiatus.

But most of all, it just sounded like a blast. Dressing up in vintage clothes and running around The Top all day?

Sign us up.

I’ve spent enough time in the straight-from-the-’50s Bexley steakhouse that all sorts of fun potential photo setups popped into my head.

Quickly, I sketched out a stickfigure storyboard in pencil.

Stick figures singing carols at the piano bar! Stick figures drinking Top Cappuccinos by the fireplace! And so on.

That was the easy part. As it turns out, organizing a fashion shoot for a food magazine is hard work. I enlisted local stylist Elizabeth Solinger to help with the details, of which there were many.

First, we had to find models. We hosted an open casting call at Surly Girl Saloon, encouraging Columbus foodies to come out (we’re a food magazine, so we wanted models who like to eat!).

Elizabeth outfitted our models in vintage dresses, as well as accessories donated

by Funky and Functional in the Short North. Rendezvous Salon on Campus generously offered to provide periodappropriate hair and makeup on the day of the shoot.

The hardest part turned out to be tracking down a Santa hat during the last week in September—which, in case you were wondering, is too early for most stores to put out the Christmas stuff.

When we first ran our crazy idea by Jean and Denver Adkins, who own The Top, they didn’t even flinch. Their cooperation and excitement ensured things ran like clockwork on the day of the shoot.

And all that hard work resulted in a gorgeous set of photos, shot by Will Shilling, starting on page 85.

The Top shoot wasn’t the only story from this issue dreamt up over drinks. The idea for our feature about meat served on the bone was sparked over cocktails at Sage, where my mind was blown by a gorgeous bone marrow appetizer. Flip to page 48 to start ogling.

Speaking of drinks, I’m thrilled to have a few new places to grab a post-work cocktail Downtown, like the new MoJoe Lounge across from Columbus Commons.

Read more about the resurging Downtown dining scene on page 68.

Let’s eat,

Shelley Mann, Editor

Love wine as much as

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LUNCH Mon-Fri: 11AM-2:30PM | DINNER Mon-Thr: 5-10PM • Fri-Sat: 5-11PM | CLOSED Sundays

starters

contributors

Brian Lindamood You shouldn’t need an excuse to visit The Barrel and Bottle for a refill, but Brian’s beer growler story gave him a solid alibi.

Brian, the director of Columbus Alive, Crave, Parent and Capital Style magazines, is also an award-winning whisky writer.

He loves all things Scottish, including (in no particular order) haggis, crisps and cask ale.

Karina Nova Karina is a traffic and general assignment reporter for 10TV News HD. She has a passion for traveling and tasting new foods along the way. While touring Europe recently, she fell in love with the bolognese sauce in Florence and ate crepes on a daily basis in France. Now she’s working through the ethnic eats Columbus has to offer.

Eric Wagner Eric shoots a wide variety of photography in Columbus, and has been doing so for over 10 years. His studio is called Illumination Photo, and one of his current passions is photographing food. Eric’s favorite restaurant is Dragonfly, and when he’s not shooting photos, he’s making T-shirts for his Veggie t’s line.

Jill Moorhead Jill loves sad music, pork belly and roasted beets and believes that life’s most poignant moments happen around the table. She’s terrified of getting stuck in historic restrooms. (The doorknobs sometimes stick.) She writes about food at home and abroad at itinerantfoodies.com and spends her days promoting all things Ohio at The Hills Market.

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A few of our favorite Ohio artisan cheeses Story by S h e l l e y M ann l P h otos by w i l l sh illing

Chase Road Cheddar

Farmstead Feta

This one’s really interesting: a smoked goat cheddar named after the farm where this Albany farm is located. The hard, aged white cheddar has a nice, subtle smokiness. Serve slices on crackers or just cut into cubes so its complex flavor can be fully appreciated.

Bellefontaine’s Blue Jacket Dairy makes a Greek-style feta that gets more complex tasting as it ages. The tangy, salty-andpeppery cheese tastes great crumbled over salads.

Blue Jacket Dairy’s Farmstead Feta, available at The Hills Market in Worthington

Integration Acres’ Chase Road cheddar, available at Katzinger’s in German Village

Bloomfield In Ashtabula County, Mayfield Road Creamery is turning out a remarkable camembert-style cheese reminiscent of French brie.

It’s got a beautiful, bloomy rind and a creamy, pungent interior. Serve this stuff at room temperature with a drizzle of honey.

Mayfield Road Creamery’s Bloomfield, available at Katzinger’s in German Village

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Fresh Chevre Lake Erie Creamery handmakes fresh batches of their creamy goat’s cheese each week. That means each container of this spreadable cheese is super-fresh—and should be enjoyed super-fast.

The slightly salty chevre tastes great on toasted bread.

Lake Erie Creamery’s Fresh Chevre, available at Curds & Whey at the North Market

Miami Erie Canal Maybe you’ve spotted Canal Junction’s earthy Lock 21 white cheese on menus at hotspots like Harvest Pizzeria. Their Miami Erie Canal cheese is worth checking out too. Named after one of the two canals running near the Defiance farm, this crowd-pleaser is sweet and nutty—similar to Swiss.

Canal Junction Farmstead’s Miami Erie Canal Cheese, available at Katzinger’s in German Village

Headwaters Tomme Kokoborrego is making the first sheep’s cheese ever in Ohio. Their first batch of Owl Creek Tomme was so tasty, it’s completely sold out. Bide time until the next batch with some of their cow’s milk cheese, like this buttery Headwaters Tomme. It gets a sharp kick and some great texture from a “river” of ash running through the center.

Kokoborrego Cheese Company’s Headwaters Tomme, available at The Hills Market in Worthington

scoop

Cocktails Photo: Eric Wagner

HOUSE OF JAPAN Hibachi Steakhouse, Seafood, and Sushi Bar

Kitchen to cup At Latitude 41, Nicolene Schwartz is mixing up cocktails using savory ingredients snagged from Chef David MacLennan’s kitchen—think celery, vinegar and pickled beet juice. Chef-inspired cocktails are catching on across the country. We chatted with Schwartz and MacLennan to learn more. —Shelley Mann How do you work together to develop new drinks?

Nicolene Schwartz: We sit down and talk almost every day. I’ll hear of an ingredient or I’ll think of something to put on a rim, and I’ll literally build a whole cocktail around the desire to use chili pepper on a rim or something.

David MacLennan: Which is cool, because that’s the concept of the food here, too.

We reverse-engineer a lot of things. A farm will come to us with an ingredient, and then we figure out how to use it.

What are some new drinks?

NS: The Beet Down No. 2 is

Latitude 41

50 N. Third St., Downtown 614-233-7541 latitude41restaurant.com

an updated version of a drink I was making at the Rossi.

David suggested adding the juice from his pickled beets.

I’ve been playing a lot with celery and came up with this great springy cocktail, the Spring Chicken. It’s the most bizarre combination of brandy, celery juice, lemon and pickling liquid. It sounds heinous, but it’s fantastic. I figure if I don’t tell anyone what’s in it they might actually order it.

One of the great things about this collaboration is we have the ability to do those really complicated, maybe not even practical cocktails.

So do you recommend dishes to pair with specific drinks?

DM: What’s nice is when you’re doing these chef-driven cocktails, they inherently go well with lots of foods.

NS: Cocktail pairing dinners are something we talk about.

It’s something that’s not really done much.

DM: You can really nail the pairings, too. If we’re doing lamb, we can do rosemary in the cocktail. You’re cross-using ingredients, and making that connection you would usually do in the kitchen.

1 8 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Private event room.

Book your holiday party today.

Buy $100 in gift certificates and get $10 for free! *Valid through 12/31/2011

8701 SANCUS BLVD. COLUMBUS 614-781-1776 6153 PARKCENTER CIRCLE DUBLIN 614-792-2445

HOUSEOFJAPANOHIO.COM LUNCH: MON-FRI: 11:30-2:00 SAT & SUN: 11:30-2:30

DINNER: MON-THURS: 5:00-9:30 FRI & SAT: 5:00-10:30 SUN: 4:30-9:00

Huffman’s Market wants you to have an all Ohio Holiday this year!

For all your homegrown food, beverage, and gourmet gift needs.

2140 Tremont Center, Upper Arlington State Liquor Agency

614-486-5336 · www.huffmansmarket.com

scoop

regulars Photo: Eric Wagner

An Honest Honest An Interpretation of of Interpretation Italian Cuisine Cuisine Italian

Reserved seating Chad Carpenter and Andrew Haines can’t stop bragging about their favorite restaurant in Columbus, M. Cameron Mitchell’s marquee restaurant is inside the Miranova, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the Scioto.

—Karina Nova When did you first fall for M? Haines: We went for dinner nine years ago. Cris Dehlavi was our server and we fell in love with her. She took our entire order without writing it down. Plus the atmosphere–it was all that put together.

How often do you go?

Carpenter: Sometimes twice a month. When we have out-oftown guests we always bring them here. Our friends from Manhattan also love it.

How did you get this reservation plaque?

Carpenter: We would always go and request Cris. She told us “you can’t reserve a seat at

M at Miranova 2 Miranova Pl., Downtown 614-629-0000 matmiranova.com Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Name:

Andrew Haines Age: 50

Join Giuseppe’s Giuseppe’s Join bartenders for for bartenders Happy Hour, Hour, Happy Monday Monday through Friday Friday through 4:30 to to 6:30 6:30 4:30

Occupation:

Choreographer Name:

Chad Carpenter Age: 40 Occupation:

Marketing the bar but if you’re coming, tell me.”

One day there was a plaque on our table in the corner. I couldn’t believe it! It was just charming—kind of like each thing they’ve done for us.

What do you like to order?

Carpenter: My new favorite thing is Friday’s half-price sushi. Any seafood is amazing.

Haines: Lobster Cones, with heavy caviar.

What makes M so great?

Carpenter: It’s a complete, holistic experience, from the service to the food to the accommodations they make for their guests.

Catch Karina Nova’s weekly Crave segments on Saturday mornings on 10TV News HD.

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GIUSEPPE’S INVITES YOU TO COME HAVE A SEAT AT OUR BAR! The bartenders of Giuseppe’s Ritrovo in Bexley have been diligently working to provide the most diverse craft cocktail experience in Columbus. It is our goal to bring the city’s cocktail experience inline with the cocktail renaissance that is currently taking place throughout the country.

We are very proud to feature our unique summer cocktail list.

2268 East Main Street Bexley, OH 43209 (614) 235-4300 www.giuseppesritrovo.com facebook@giusppesritrovobar • twitter@giuseppesbexley

scoop

Essay Photo: jodi miller

People power

By Bear Braumoeller

G

Influencing menus is as easy as trying a new restaurant, or ordering a new dish

iven that I’m one of the leaders of Slow Food Columbus, a group that was founded to promote the enjoyment of food, it should be no surprise that I’ve sought out good food in every town and city in which I’ve lived.

(Indeed, I was just in L.A. on business. If you go, find a place called Umami Burger.)

It might be more surprising to learn that I consider Columbus to be one of the most interesting food cities in the country. The reason is simple: Columbus’ size creates remarkable opportunities for diners to influence its food culture.

Smaller towns typically lack the critical mass of patrons and culinary talent necessary to create and maintain a thriving food culture. In the largest cities, most worthy ventures can find an audience, thanks to a diverse and engaged population. In neither case can diners play much of a role beyond going to restaurants and ordering what’s on the menu.

Columbus, situated in between, is a city on the cusp of significant change. Some businesses have emerged that are truly world-class: Jeni’s ice

creams and Pistacia Vera are among the first to come to mind, which is no surprise. In a growing food culture, the most compelling businesses will be the first to succeed.

They won’t be the last.

This means the public can play an important role in shaping the city’s food scene.

And the real beauty lies in how we can do it: By eating.

As consumers, we typically think of our purchases as one-way transactions in which we select from a set menu of options. We often don’t realize that a silent dialogue takes place in every transaction, hundreds of times a day—a negotiation about what will end up on the plate.

And the choices we make are ultimately reflected in our city’s food culture.

In today’s Columbus restaurant world, that constitutes a real opportunity.

Chefs experiment with specials or full-blown wine dinners to hone their creativity, and the success of those experiments can change a restaurant’s menu.

Last year, for example, Slow Food Columbus debuted a dinner series called Off the Menu designed to let chefs

2 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Nida’s first served the Kor Moo Yang, a grilled pork dish, during an Off the Menu dinner hosted by Slow Food Columbus. experiment with edgy or challenging dishes they might hesitate to offer regularly. Last month, the first restaurant to participate, Nida’s Thai on High, incorporated some of the items from that dinner onto their regular menu.

The Columbus food scene is growing quickly, and its top talent is beginning to reveal itself. Columbus diners, even more than our counterparts in other cities, can help write the menus of the city’s restaurants

with our forks and knives.

In that rapidly changing context, the cumulative effect of everyone trying something different—a different restaurant, or just a different dish— is explosive.

So go out and explore. Your curiosity can make the city a better place.

Bear Braumoeller is a political science professor at Ohio State University and chapter board chair of Slow Food Columbus.

d e k c u l c ays! t e g e Com the Holidr Clucker for Our Mothe

ry Come T

r Modern Dine ls i a t k c o C c i s Clas 505 N High St. Columbus 614.228.6323

www.kneadonhigh.com

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FEATURING DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPECIALS easystreetcafecolumbus.com

German Village 197 Thurman Ave. 614.444.EASY

Powell 5 South Liberty St. 614.888.EASY

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events

Rigsby’s kitchen

Crave bloggers party Wednesday, Aug. 3 Photo s by Eri c Wag ne r To celebrate Crave’s August issue, we hosted our Columbus food blogger friends at Ray’s Living Room, the gallery space adjacent to Rigsby’s. Our group feasted on deviled eggs, Sambuca-marinated melon with La Quercia prosciutto, polenta cake with smoked salmon and more treats created by Rigsby’s, who took the honors as the No. 1 restaurant on our Crave 10 list of the best restaurants in Columbus.

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JOIN US THIS THANKSGIVING Why cook when you can enjoy family, friends and good times —Matt The Miller

TRADITIONAL THANKSGIVING DINNER BUFFET

TH 11.24 from11AM-5PM FEATURING Carving station serving oven roasted turkey • Garlic roasted ribeye • Honey glazed ham Choices of roasted garlic au jus, horseradish sauce or apple whisky sauce • Turkey gravy Cranberry-apricot relish • Mashed potatoes with turkey gravy • Spinach and sage stuffing Corn souffle with honey and fried onions • Green beans with roasted shallots • Candied yams with walnut crumb • Shrimp cocktail • Flatbreads • Salads • Fresh rolls • Pasta Veggie and cheese display • Great desserts

$28.95 adults

$10.95 kids 5-10 years old

*Kids 4 and under FREE with each paying adult. (Additional 4 and under $4.95 each)

RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

Great food and drink specials all week long. Visit www.mtmtavern.com for details.

DUBLIN 6725 Avery-Muirfield Dr. | Dublin, OH | 614.799.9100 GRANDVIEW 1400 Grandview Ave. | Columbus, OH | 614.754.1026 www.mtmtavern.com

scoop

events BISTRO & BAR

The Rossi

Crave readers party Tuesday, Aug. 16 Photo s by Eri c Wag ne r About 50 Crave readers and staffers mingled at hip Short North spot The Rossi to get a sneak preview of Chef Andrew Smith’s fall menu. We tried Chorizo & Sweet Potato Bread Pudding, Pork Confit Crostini, house-made pork rinds and lots more, all paired with specialty cocktails made with Middle West Spirits.

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“G. Mike’s

justly famous Shrimp & Grits” — Columbus Alive

G MICHAEL’S P R I X F I X E M O N D AY S 3 Courses for $30 614.464.0575 595 S. Third Street gmichaelsbistro.com

German Village

SUNDAY BRUNCH SPECTACULAR

Station to Station

Serving from 10:00am - 2:30pm

Salad Selections • Bread Station Chef’s Selections • Seafood Table Breakfast Station • Pasta & Fajita Station Carving Station • Dessert Station Cappuccino & Juice Station

Enjoy a romantic dinner and a birds-eye view of the Port Columbus runways on our beautiful patios.

94th AERO

SQUADRON

5030 Sawyer Road • 614-237-8887 www.94thaero.com

CHINESE CUISINE • SUSHI • HIBACHI GRILL

www.bamboovillageoh.com

2173 W. Dublin-Granville Rd.

Worthington, OH 43085

w/ purchase over $20 Not valid with other discounts.

Expires 12/31/11.

FREE 2 EGG ROLLS

614-847-8168

w/ purchase over $10 Not valid with other discounts.

Expires 12/31/11.

Mon-Sat 11:00am - 10:00pm Sunday Noon - 9:00pm

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West Dublin Granville Rd 161 Olentangy River Rd

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events

Franklin Park Conservatory

Food and Wine Affair Friday, Sept. 23 Photo s by A lys i a b u rto n Franklin Park Conservatory provided a perfect backdrop for sampling more than 350 wines and food from 45 Central Ohio restaurants. The Grand Tasting is the capstone to a series of wine-centric events, and this year’s saluted the wines and cuisine of Italy, highlighting food from Cibo, Figlio, Luce, Marcella’s and more favorite Italian spots.

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scoop

events

Columbus commons

Fete en Blanc Friday, Sept. 23

Photo s by Eri c Wag ne r A group of Upper Arlington friends joined together to bring a chic Parisian concept to Columbus. Fete en Blanc was a pop-up picnic at which in-theknow guests showed up to a secret location dressed in white and with feasts in tow. Paris’ Diner en Blanc draws as many as 10,000 participants; Columbus’ version brought 300 picnickers to the Commons, and the group embraced the spirit of the event with elaborate outfits and inspired table decorations.

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Crave Calendar Winter 2011

Chef Tasting Dinners Nov. 20, 21 & 30 Barcelona

Celebrate the 15th anniversary of Barcelona in German Village with a series of Chef Paul Yow’s special Chef Tasting Dinners.

barcelonacolumbus.com

Beaujolais Wine Dinner Nov. 17 La Chatelaine

Celebrate the arrival of French Beaujolais wine with La Chatelaine’s Ohio Nouveau wine. A $35 prix-fix menu includes a bottle of each wine per person.

lachatelainebakery.com

Chili Cookoff

Nov. 18 Nationwide & Farm Bureau 4-H Center The OSU College of Pharmacy’s annual cookoff, with free samples of more than 30 different kinds of chili, raises money for cancer research at the James.

osu.edu/events

Wine & Cheese Tasting Dec. 1 The Hills Market

The monthly installment features six sparkling wines paired with six holiday cheeses and six hors d’oeuvres.

up foodie gifts from market merchants at this annual open house.

northmarket.com

Dine with Santa

Dec. 3-12 Columbus Zoo and Aquarium A kid-friendly meal is accompanied by chances to see animals up close and be photographed with Santa.

columbuszoo.org

Dickens of a Dinner Dec. 9-17 Ohio Village

Feast on foods from the days of Charles Dickens while listening to the Ohio Village Singers perform period Christmas carols.

ohiohistory.org

Victorian Christmas Tea

Dec. 11 Kelton House Museum & Garden Sip Victorian-inspired teas, including traditional Earl Grey, and sample 19th-century seasonal sweets at this special holiday tea service.

keltonhouse.com

Candlelight Dinners Dec. 14, 21 & 28 Franklin Park Conservatory

Enjoy a candlelit formal dinner in the gorgeous Palm House, decked out for the holidays.

thehillsmarket.com

fpconservatory.org

Holiday Open House and Craft Extravaganza

Dec. 22 The Refectory

Dec. 3-4 North Market

Put a major dent in your holiday shopping by picking

Jazz Dinner Club A four-course meal in the Refectory’s private upstairs room is accompanied by live jazz from The Madmen.

therefectoryrestaurant.com

Now Open

Fresh American Bistro with Flair Creations by Chef Robert Harrison

Downtown

201 S High St www.denovobistro.com

NOW BOOKING HOLIDAY PARTIES

food Story by S helley Ma nn Photo by Will sh ill i ng

tasty tapa We love Barrio’s fun Paella Fritter, a tapas-style take on a traditional Spanish dish.

Paella’s basic building blocks, rice and green peas, are packed around a chunk of smoked salmon. The resulting rice ball is then breaded and fried till brown and crispy, and served with a thick lemongarlic aioli. Best part? The tender grilled baby squid perched on top.

Paella Fritter Barrio

185 N. High St., Downtown 614-220-9141 barriotapas.com

guide

strip search Clockwise from top left: Chengdu Tofu, Fortune Chinese Restaurant, Mao Po Bean Curd

Fortune Chinese Restaurant 2869 Olentangy River Rd., West Campus 614-263-1991 Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

change of fortune

Real Szechuan food is highly spicy—and this low-key spot gets it right Story by G . A . B e nto n l P h oto s by Alys i a Bu rton

T

hough frequently decried as a blight, strip malls shine a light on our city’s personality.

Thus as an increasingly foodmad Columbus continues evolving, its growling hunger for culinary authenticity and

sophistication is fed even in these undeniably homely locations. Take, for instance, the so-called University City Center.

Here, within audible “O-HI-O!”-cheering distance of rehabbed Ohio Stadium,

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you can now savor a panoply of Asian flavors. See, emblematic of our citywide dining renaissance, like the Horseshoe, University Center has semi-recently undergone changes, too.

So where once a Dairy Queen reigned, now stands the first Columbus Afghan restaurant. Sure, there’s still a few nearby chains, but that Afghan eatery is neighbor to: a wacky entertainment complex serving bubble tea and Korean snacks; a newish Indian food outlet with a proud pedigree; a hidden gem of a Japanese joint; and, most enticingly, a revelatory

Chinese establishment where the word Szechuan is used seriously.

Under new (and better and Szechuan-focused) management since spring, Fortune Chinese Restaurant’s ambiance—unlike its powerful, non-pandering and distinct cuisine—is rather bland.

There’s a drop ceiling slightly brightened by Chinese red lanterns, blah naugahyde booths and goofy 3D art.

But man, oh man, Fortune’s wild, rare, actually believable Szechuan cooking—and crazy cheap prices—make this place a crave-tastic destination.

How does Fortune’s

The lineup More University City Center eats Cafe Kabul Cuisine: Afghan Vibe: Refashioned, counter-ordering fast-fooder but bright, clean and with colorful hanging rugs Must-try dishes: Hummus and Afghan bread, Buranee Bonjon, Peshawari Chaplee Kabob and Beef Seekh Kabob

Sushi Ting Cuisine: Japanese Vibe: A spare and tasteful oasis of grown-up serenity in the heart of Buckeye tumult Must-try dishes: Mount Fuji appetizer, Seafood Sunomono, Lobster Dynamite, Chirashi and Yakiniku Bento

Radhuni Cuisine: Indian and Bengali Vibe: Indian Oven’s brother, Radhuni, is long, narrow, sleek, modern and casual with a sky-high red ceiling and soothing cream and blue paint Must-try dishes: Alu Kabob, Roast Chicken, Chickpea Chicken, Bengali Lamb Shank and Shrimp Biryani

Momo2 Cuisine: Korean-ish with bubble teas and cheap fried things Vibe: Daffy, Asian-inflected and slacker-chic alternastudent union with karaoke rooms, Keith Haringdecorated mini-bowling alley, and beat-up pool tables Must-try dishes: Bulgoki Rice Bowl, Katsu Rice Bowl, Taro Bubble Tea Smoothy Szechuan food differ from a legion of pretenders? Well, instead of using “Szechuan” as a limp come-on, Fortune rattles tastebuds with the kind of ferocious and explosively genuine seasoning I’d heretofore only enjoyed in East- and West-Coast megalopolises.

Fortune’s volatile Chengdu Tofu ($3.50) is a thrilling illustration of the classic Szechuan (aka Sichuan) predilection for sprinkling brightly floral, lip-tingling and orally anesthe-

tizing Szechuan peppercorns onto dishes in order to amp up the fiery chili oil. This yinand-yang, numb-and-sting, telltale Szechuan characteristic (which the Chinese call ma la) here makes jarring magic with opposing-yet-complementing iterations of soy: crispy roasted edamame and silky tofu. The soupy little bowl also holds scallions, ginger and raw garlic.

Fortune’s potent Ma Po Bean Curd ($9) and Dan Dan

Fortune’s wild, rare, actually believable Szechuan cooking–and cheap prices–make this place a crave-tastic destination

Noodles ($3.50) also delight with similarly fun, stun-andsinge approaches. But less asbestos-throated diners will find terrific meals here too.

By wisely sticking with the four menu sections under “Szechuan” headers, I can tell your fortune will be bright and filled with lively and bold spicing—particularly from generous glugs of chili oil and soy sauce. These are often jacked up with ginger, celery, jalapeno and an occasional marked sweetness.

Some “less stinging” Fortune Szechuan favorites are: the soupy and unusual Fish with Rice Crust ($14—massive

and with crackling, sizzling rice cakes); the super-tender and soy-salty Lamb with (jalapeno) Chili Pepper and Cumin ($8); the surprising Diced Chicken Stir Fried with Pickled Turnip ($8—a relatively ungreasy, spicy and tangy must); plus the wonderful and unique, five-spiced, chewy cold Beef Jerky in (an almost Mexican mole-like) Red Chili Sauce ($8.50).

If all this sounds far more exotic than expected strip mall fare, welcome to 21stcentury Columbus.

Restaurant critic G.A. Benton blogs at columbusalive.com

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guide

Neighborhoods

Old meets new Bexley’s classics share the road with a new crop of locally grown favorites Story by G . A . B enton Photos by Jodi Miller

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exley and its Main Street are paved in history. Thousands of years ago, the area was home to mound-building Native Americans. In the 1830s, Main Street became part of the National Road— one of America’s first great highways. That old thoroughfare continues flowing today as the commercial heart and restaurant row of tree-lined residential Bexley.

Currently, it’s where golden oldies like The Top Steak House and Johnson’s Real Ice Cream thrive beside Piada and Jeni’s—21st-century businesses forging a new history.

Here’s a quick taste of both vintage and more freshly minted Bexley restaurants.

Cafe Istanbul 2455 E. Main St. 614-237-9920 cafeistanbul.com

Whole grilled fish at Cafe Istanbul 4 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Open since mid-September, this newest Cafe Istanbul is a high-performing, if smallersized, member of its highachieving Turkish restaurant family. And it’s another goodlooking member, too.

Outside, there’s an eyecandy patio meticulously

Bexley S. Drexel Ave.

Moshi Sushi Bar

Bexley Park Rd.

E. Main St.

ZenCha Giuseppe’s

Cafe Istanbul

Capital University

Rubino’s

Wing’s

E. Mound St.

Cafe Istanbul landscaped with some dramatic-looking plants. Inside, handsome slatted wood dominates—it covers walls and is formed into booths in the cozy dining room.

From top to bottom, the menu’s packed with can’tmiss, ultra-fresh dips, soups, salads and kabobs. For sharing, the Appetizer Sampler and Mixed Grill kebabs are real crowd pleasers. Other favorites are fabulous falafel and the Karniyarik.

Wing’s 2801 E. Main St. 614-236-8261 wingsofbexley.com Past Wing’s curvy glassblock entryway, you’ll discover the kind of classic ChineseAmerican restaurant nearly extinct nowadays. That’s not

shocking, considering the business began in the Roaring ’20s and relocated to its present spot during the 1940s.

The best place to hang out these days is a padded booth in the imperial red and gold bar area, where parties sometimes spontaneously erupt—due in no small part to an inventory that includes about 160 Scotch whiskys.

To soak up that hooch, order comforting old-schoolers, like Wor Sue Gai, Egg Fu Young and the all-in-one Combination Yetcamein Soup.

ZenCha 2396 E. Main St. 614-237-9690 zen-cha.com The newish Bexley branch of ZenCha closely resembles its Short North sibling.

guide

Neighborhoods Photo: will shilling

Giuseppe’s 2268 E. Main St. 614-235-4300 giuseppesritrovo.com

It’s been two years since Moshi first brought sushi to Bexley; it now has some of the best and freshesttasting sushi and fusiony Asian food in the area.

Appetizer Sampler and Turkish Tea, above, at Cafe Istanbul Both mellow out to a New Age soundtrack and are so obsessed with tea they: call their meal courses “brews” (e.g. appetizers are “Warming Brews”); their serene and clean-lined confines feature opulent, museum-like tea ceremony shadow boxes; and they assign every table a “tea ambassador” guide through their 100 varieties of tea.

But while both ZenChas offer prettily plated Japaneseinflected dishes, the Bexley

branch showcases a considerably bigger and more ambitious menu. Some standouts are spicy Seared Tuna Salad, Grilled Mahi Mahi entree and Teppanyaki Noodles.

Rubino’s 2643 E. Main St. 614-235-1700 Seeing is believing at defiantly retro Rubino’s. Its humble brick building is literally pointed out by an old-

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fashioned, bubbly lighted arrow on the beloved pizzeria’s vintage neon sign.

Rubino’s bare-bones interior—red-and-white checked curtains, photographic collage of locals and a pinball machine—also looks like it’s been shipped in from a bygone, simpler time.

And from bucket-sized, tricked-out iceberg lettuce salads with house-made dressings to homemade meatball subs to eccentric and terrific pizzas with snappy, wafer-thin homemade crusts and tangy sauce (try the garlicky, madehere sausage), you’ll see little has changed at Rubino’s (including prices!) since opening in 1954.

It’s no fluke that the versatile Giuseppe’s is a Bexley institution. It’s a lively, upscale-casual place where suited gentlemen enjoy designer pizzas with glasses of vino at the granite bar while cocktailing ladies toast the night away beside families smiling over bowls of their all-time favorite pastas.

Similarly, Italianate design features coexist gracefully here with tasteful contemporary art.

While the popular pastaloaded menu hasn’t altered much over the years, there are great rotating specials to look out for. Try the Prosciutto Crudo appetizer, Insalata Rossa, Ai Funghi pizza, an unbeatable $10 Spaghetti & Meatballs and the Veal Involtini.

Moshi Sushi 2152 E. Main St. 614-732-0641 moshisushibar.com It’s been about two years since Moshi first brought sushi to Bexley, but the place— which plays clubby music and uses Warhol-quoting side plates—seems just as buzzworthy today.

Anchoring the newnessembracing Bexley Gateway, this chic eatery has a popular patio, the shiny modern equivalent of a pressed-tin ceiling and a decoratively tiled wall with a cutaway mural of fish wiggling in an aquascape.

Moshi also has some of the best and freshest-tasting sushi and fusiony Asian food in the area. Try the spectacular Sunomono, Scarlet Craze Roll and the creative and delicious Red Snapper Chips and Sushi Panini.

THE BEST One of our five festive private rooms combined with our superb holiday luncheon or dinner menus create the perfect atmosphere for your holiday party.

Accommodating groups from 10 to 100 guests.

WINES you’ve never heard of.

Anyone can hook you up with a “nice bottle of wine” for a holiday meal or gift.

But for something truly special, come to Vino 100. Our small, hand-picked selection represents the best from artisan winemakers around the world. Distinctive and delicious, you’ll find them definitely worth discovering.

522 Polaris Parkway • At Cleveland Avenue 614.895.VINO (8466) • www.vino100polaris.com

guide

street eats

boy, oh boy Yellow Boy’s brings the Polish Boy, a favorite late-night snack in Cleveland, to Columbus

Marcus Spivey serves hungry patrons outside St. James Tavern

Story by BETH I A WOOl f Photo s by j o di mi l l e r

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he Polish Boy is beloved in its hometown of Cleveland.

The sandwich has such a cult following there that “Iron Chef’s” Michael Symon, a Cleveland native, picked a Polish Boy as his choice for the Food Network show “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.” But despite its popularity two hours to the north, Columbus didn’t have a reliable source for the sausage sandwich until this year.

Marcus Spivey, owner of the new Yellow Boy’s food cart, is a Clevelander who spent much of his time at Ohio State wishing he could find a decent Polish Boy in Columbus. After years of hoping someone else would open a Polish Boy restaurant, Spivey decided to take the plunge himself earlier this year.

Now, thanks to Spivey, transplanted Clevelanders (and anyone else) craving kielbasa can get their fix on the streets of Columbus.

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Where to find it:

What to get:

Yellow Boy’s moves around town and can be found on Campus, in the Short North and at special events and festivals. Keep track of Spivey on Twitter or Facebook—these sandwiches are worth hunting down.

A Polish Boy, of course! Here’s what it is: a juicy grilled kielbasa sausage served in a hot dog bun topped with french fries, coleslaw and barbecue or hot sauce. They’re $5 apiece.

Spivey drives up to Cleveland to get his kielbasas, and splits and grills them himself.

He makes his own sweet coleslaw and uses pre-cooked oven fries.

The soft bun and thick-cut fries soak up the juices from that coleslaw and—the highlight of the sandwich—Spivey’s secret-recipe barbecue

When to go: Yellow Boy’s is usually out and about on weekends and late nights. This is great after-thebar—or between-roundsof-beer—food, and it’s not surprising that Spivey regularly sells out of sausages.

Find your

MoJoe

sauce. We wish we could tell you what’s in it, but Spivey’s not spilling. It’s tangy, a little vinegary and packs some heat, and it pulls the sandwich together quite nicely.

On the side: No side orders here unless you want a soda. This is a compact, all-in-one sandwich—the fries are served on top rather than on the side.

Don’t forget to: Grab some napkins. You’ll need them. It’s good—but it’s very messy.

Yellow Boy’s Polish Boys Twitter: @yellowpolishboy yellowpolishboy.blogspot.com And spend some time chatting with Spivey. This friendly and charming guy has managed to perfect the difficult art of conversing with drunken customers.

Bethia Woolf, owner of the tour company Columbus Food Adventures, blogs at streeteatscolumbus.com.

anytime of day or for the HOLIDAYS. Booking now info@cupojoe.com

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flavors

what’s hot

On the bone Story by s h e l l e y M a nn Photo s by J o d i M i l l e r

Order a bone-in cut of meat and sit down to a Flintstones-style dinner

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nawing meat from the bone is satisfying in a very primal, bordering-onobscene kind of way.

We’ve become too accustomed to eating boneless, skinless (flavorless) chicken— it’s time to return to our messy, carnivorous roots. First and foremost, these cuts of meat just taste better. Cooking on the bone infuses meat with intense, incomparable flavor.

There’s nothing dainty about eating meat off the bone, either, and that’s the way it should be. Go ahead and pick it up, sink your teeth in, gnaw off every last bit of meat and then suck out the marrow. Nobody’s watching.

Get back in touch with your inner Fred Flintstone with these bone-in dishes.

Bone Marrow, $10 The dish that sparked our love affair with bones? This decadent Sage starter, a jaw-dropping plate of hacked-in-half Wagyu beef bones filled with silky, gelatinous, bacon-y bone marrow. On top is a bacon-fig gastrique and some wilted arugula, and the idea is to scoop a bit of all that stuff onto pieces of grilled bread.

Eating through this dish leaves a pleasing sheen of glistening fat on your fingers and lips—and an impressive pile of bones on your plate.

Sage American Bistro 2653 N. High St., North Campus 614-267-7243 sageamericanbistro.com

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flavors

what’s hot

Osso Buco D’Cardone, $19 To truly appreciate the incredible flavor imparted by bones and their marrow, you’ve got to try osso buco. It’s a simple Italian stew that, traditionally, centers on slow-braised veal shank. Cardone’s version combines chianti-braised lamb shank and carrots with risotto. Fall-offthe-bone tender lamb plus fantastically creamy risotto adds up to one soulwarming meal—homestyle cooking at its very best.

Cardone’s 377 W. Main St., Westerville 614-392-2267 cardonesrestaurant.com

Rustic • Urban • Food “Seasonal Driven, Farm to Fork Comfort Classics with an Urban Edge”

Photo by Ely Brothers

410 E. Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266 Follow the location of our Mobile Kitchen on Facebook and Twitter www.skilletruf.com

Vegetar

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chops lamb bobs r u o out p ka check shrim Come mbo tiger u and j

asted Leg Whole Ro only $65 p an Or picku Baklava Tray Assorted

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614.263.7777

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what’s hot

Scarlet & Grey, $79 This is celebration food. An “I’m going to order the most expensive thing on the menu” kind of meal. And when it’s delivered to your table, you will not be disappointed. The 34-ounce long-bone ribeye consists of a hefty cut of perfectly seared, unbelievably succulent Americanstyle Kobe beef attached to a breathtaking 10-inch bone that extends well beyond the perimeter of the plate. It’s served with melted butter and onion straws.

Hyde Park Prime Steakhouse 569 N. High St., Short North 614-224-2204 hydeparkrestaurants.com

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Nationwide Arena 614-883-6464 Northwest 614-798-1331 O.S.U. Campus 614-294-3257 Pickerington 614-861-4422 Polaris 614-436-6836 Upper Arlington 614-459-3663 Or go to: www.wggrinders.com

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7475 Vantage Dr.

2127 Polaris Parkway.

614-547-0246

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614-781-0751

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Season of the squash Squashes lend a defining color to the harvest and provide great seasonal flavors to these superlative autumnal dishes Story by G. A . B enton l Photos by jodi miller

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Butternut Squash Guacamole

Heirloom Campus

Don’t think rich, smooth and creamy; think lean, bright and zingy. Heirloom’s creative butternut riff on the evergreen dip has a surprising, yellow-orange tint and refreshing citrusy accents refracted through sweet bell peppers, a touch of onion and hints of chili.

2

Ravioli di Zucca

Rigsby’s Kitchen Short North

Like an echoing Halloween haunting and premonition of Christmas, this delicate yet powerful pasta combines pureed butternut with candied pear and pumpkin. Enrobing the handmade squashy pockets is a nutty browned butter sauce aromatized by garlic and fried sage leaves.

3 Let us host your Holiday Parties! for more information and a list of all events, visit

Grilled Butternut Squash

G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar German Village

Squash becomes uncommonly meaty in this hefty vegetarian beauty. Thick slabs of garlicky butternut flirting with the mild sweetness of cooked pears are grounded by sauteed mustard greens and fennel. Tying everything together are a roasty peanut vinaigrette and pungent blue cheese.

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Vegan French Toast

The Angry Baker Olde Towne East

This brilliant eggless French toast is a convincing example of vegan magic. Two hulking slices of hearty homemade whole wheat bread are doused in a lovely pumpkin batter, crisped up to golden brown on a griddle, anointed with resplendent Ohio maple syrup and sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar.

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flavors Made right Hail Caesar Tracking down an authentic Caesar salad is harder than you’d think

Story by G . A . Be nto n Photos by J o d i M i l l e r

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hough it’s difficult to pinpoint when it started, we’re living through the decline and fall of the Caesar salad.

This is sad considering once upon a time, the Caesar was a refined specialoccasion dish carefully prepared tableside in fine dining establishments.

Nowadays, crappy pre-fab Caesars are as common as bad hamburgers—and available at places that sell them, too.

This propelled me onto a quest for correctly constructed Caesars. I unfortunately discovered this: Finding a Caesar salad that’s made right occurs less frequently than a picnic-perfect day in November.

Usually, they’re ponderously leaden affairs entombed in a gloppy white dressing littered with cheap cheese and croutons that taste like the cardboard containers they came from. Then there’s the unnecessary proliferation of toppings.

This is a case of overthinking and overburdening what’s 0 0 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Finding a Caesar made right occurs less frequently than a picnic-perfect day in November.

Ingredients for a Caesar, clockwise from top: romaine, parmesan, garlic, pepper, anchovies, lemon, croutons; Right, Gallo’s Caesar Salad

$1 meant to be a stripped-down classic.

Now I’ve got nothing against creativity—I’ve had great Caesars that were grilled, smoked and even topped with fried eggs and fried oysters. But sometimes only the authentic emperor of salads beckons, and that’s what I sought here.

So behold some noble Caesars. These distinguish themselves from plebian pretenders because they’re dressed in zingy and pungent vinaigrettes—no mayonnaise monsters!—and they’re graced with fresh romaine lettuce, fine cheese, homemade croutons and that’s it.

Gallo’s Kitchen

Location: 2820 Nottingham Rd., Upper Arlington All the pieces of a real Caesar come together spectacularly at Gallo’s.

First of all, the spot-on, olive-oil-forward dressing enhances and doesn’t overpower the hearts of romaine lettuce. Secondly, the garlic is delivered via terrific housemade croutons. And lastly, the tricky balance of lemon, cheese and anchovy is masterfully attained.

La Chatelaine

Locations: Dublin, Upper Arlington and Worthington I consider this a nifty gateway Caesar. It has a touch of cream for people unaccustomed to the real thing, but its bright lemony tones, earthy garlic presence and darkly toasted herby croutons (La Chatelaine’s a wonderful bakery) make it special.

Ted’s Montana Grill

Locations: Arena District and Dublin A bison-burger joint might be the last place you’d expect to find a firstrate Caesar. Yet there, on a properly chilled salad plate, is the genuine, olive oil-based article. Assembled with tender hearts of romaine, this lemony and garlic-punctuated beauty also features a serious bite of anchovy. Bonus: tableside pepper mills.

614.461.7888

New Catering Menu • Wood Burning Fireplace on the Patio • Live Music Every Tuesday & Sunday • Gluten Free Pizza As the owner of Local Roots, I believe everything is better when it comes from the farm. Our goal is to serve our customers with an abundance of locally sourced goods. We are excited to be an Ohio Proud Affiliate serving All Natural Ohio Amish Chicken, Ohio Pork, and Certified Angus Beef.

Our family farm, not far from downtown Powell, provides us with fresh produce for the restaurant. When not from the farm the produce is always purchased from local vendors.

We have a small herb garden on the patio that provides us with most of the herbs we use.

In order to utilize the freshest seasonal products we change the menu often, and are always striving to increase the amount of local goods we use at Local Roots. Of the 24 beers on tap, 6 are from Ohio; we also pour 3 wines from local wineries.

I would like to take a moment to thank you for allowing us to be a part of your day and serve you.

–– Jessi

Iams

LOCAL ROOTS 15 E. Olentangy St, Powell, Ohio 43065 • 614-602-8060 • localrootspowell.com

Ser v i n g

Comfort Food!

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burgers

homegrown

buckeye beef You can taste the Ohio countryside in these locally raised burgers Story by G . A . Ben ton l Photos by j odi mi ll er

I

Where your first time’s forever

Award winning German - American Cuisine In the Heart of German Village Featured on the Travel Channel’s “Man V Food” and the Food Network's "Best of..." series.

240 E. Kossuth St. 614-444-6808 Follow us online for events and special offers!

Like us on Facebook and Twitter @schmidtscbus

www.SchmidtHaus.com

’ve come to praise hamburger, not bury it.

Too long considered dismissible greasy kids stuff, our national dish has suffered unspeakable indignities at the hands of ruthless, bottom-line factory farmers and the anonymous clowns and illegitimate kings who rule the fast food universe.

They’ve given the poor hamburger an unfortunately well-deserved reputation as an insipidly flavored cheap piece of unhealthy meat with dubious origins. That’s why those masquerading clowns and fake kings inevitably rely on gimmicks to push their soft, industrial, dull gray patties.

Valiantly plucking hamburgers from these lowest-common-denominator depths of the American diet are forwardthinking, high-performing restaurants conscientious enough to make personal connections with their food sources and choose locally raised, grass-fed beef. The differences are astounding.

First of all, chomping through locally raised burgers delivers the fabulously fresh taste of carefully handled, clean meat seared into a juicy and pure-beefy state that can induce delirium in ecstatic eaters.

And since you—and cows— are what you eat, it’s no exaggeration to say you can actually taste the Ohio countryside in these burger beauties.

But there’s also the easy dogooderism relatively inexpensively purchased (these burg-

The Lights Out Burger

Worthington Inn ($13) Where’s the beef from: Grass-fed cattle from Mennonite-owned farms, specially processed by Heffelfinger Meats of Jeromesville

Extras: Locally baked Stan Evans bun, arugula, cheddar, thickcut smoky applewood bacon, tobacco onions (think “straws”), homemade pickles and a spicysweet “secret sauce”

Comes with: Fries

MoJoe Burger

MoJoe Lounge Downtown ($12) Where’s the beef from:

Certified organic grass-fed cattle from Sweet Meadows Farm near Zanesville

Extras: Locally baked EleniChristina bun, sharp aged English cheddar and sweet, deeply caramelized onions Comes with:

Choice of homemade side

ers are around $12 apiece) by supporting humanely raised local cattle, which in turn also supports the Ohio economy.

Oh yeah, and don’t forget the health bonuses of higher Omega-3 fatty acid (the kind found in salmon) and lower saturated fat levels associated with meat from grass-fed cows.

Rarely has making healthier and more culturally upstanding choices tasted so great.

Bun

Hand-formed olive oil brioche from Omega Artisan Bakery in Columbus

Bacon

House-cured bacon from Bluescreek Farm in Marysville

Lettuce

Arugula from Northridge Organic Farm in Johnstown

Cheese

Jersey Drover cheese from Laurel Valley Creamery in Gallipolis

Patty

Grass-fed beef from Homestead Farms near Cardington

Egg

Local farm egg from Kings Farm in Stoutsville

Skillet Burger

Skillet Rustic Urban Food ($12)

Where’s the beef from: Skillet-special blend of grass-fed cattle

Extras:

Jelly

Tomato marmalade made from tomatoes from Dangling Carrot Farm in Philo

Locally baked bun, pungent (local) Jersey Drover cheese, local farmer’s egg, zingy dressed arugula and sweet homemade tomato marmalade

Comes with:

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burgers

homegrown Photo: will shilling

Veg out Restaurants cater to vegetarians with made-in-house veggie burgers

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on-meat eaters have the right to good burgers, too, and a number of area restaurants go beyond throwing flavorless frozen meatless pucks on the grill. Full-time and occasional vegetarians can find great veggie burgers everywhere from a vegetarian bakery (of course) to a full-scale burger joint (really!).

—Robin Davis

Broccoli Burger

Whole World Natural Bakery ($6.80) 3629 N. High St., Clintonville Instead of beans, this burger is made with broccoli, rice and bread crumbs. It’s pleasantly mild, tasting only slightly of the vegetable. The best part: it’s served on a house-baked wheat roll that could make even shoe leather taste good. Topped with Colby cheese and a drizzle of mayo, it’s a delicious non-meat burger.

Northstar Burger Northstar Cafe ($12.50)

Locations: Clintonville, Easton and Short North The Northstar Burger is probably the best-known veggie burger in town. The usual black beans and rice are given a red hue and earthy flavor with the addition of grated beets. The mammoth burger is also grilled instead of baked, giving it a meatier flavor. Northstar’s sister restaurant, Third & Hollywood, makes a version with Southwestern touches like corn, Monterey Jack and guacamole.

Broccoli Burger at Whole World Natural Bakery

Luna Burger lunaburger.com

When it comes to a locally grown veggie burger, it’s hard to beat Luna Burgers, made from ingredients grown at area farms and available in creative flavors like Garden Thyme, Farmhouse Chili and Peanut Cilantro.

They’re sold frozen at a handful of local markets, including Greener Grocer, North Market and Hills

Market. Or you can buy them fully cooked and served on a bun at these area restaurants: l Bernard’s Tavern l Blue Turtle Tea & Spice l Danny’s Deli l Hal & Al’s l The Jury Room l Katalina’s Cafe Corner l Lexi’s on Third l Rad Dog l Short North Tavern

6 2 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Black Bean Burger Graffiti Burger ($5)

Locations: Clintonville, Dublin, Grandview and Pickerington This locally grown burger chain turns out a beautiful veggie burger made in-house at each store daily.

Featuring a mix of coarsely mashed black beans, these burgers are nicely seasoned, if a bit soft. Like all Graffiti burgers, customers can order it as the store recommends—with Graffiti Sauce (a mayonnaiseketchup blend), shredded lettuce and provolone—or doctor it however they want with a variety of toppings, from jalapenos to slaw.

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chefs

at home

sweet spot Suisse Shop owner’s love for baking spills into her home kitchen Story by Ro b i n Dav i s Photos by J o d i M i l l e r

A

fter a long day at her bakery, Darlene Jones likes nothing better than coming home and cooking some more.

“I love to cook, and I love to bake,” said the 60-year-old.

“I’ll come home and still cook and bake. It’s more relaxing at

Cajun Shrimp Makes 5 or 6 servings Serve with crusty bread.

Ingredients: l3 /4 cup extra light olive oil l3 /4 cup red wine vinegar l1 /4 cup Creole or Cajun seasoning l6 large garlic cloves, chopped l2 pounds shrimp, peeled with tails left on, deveined Combine oil, vinegar, seasoning and garlic. Set aside some marinade to use as a dip. Add shrimp to remaining marinade. Toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

Prepare grill for mediumhigh heat. Remove shrimp from marinade; discard marinade.

Cook shrimp on grill in a grill basket or on skewers until just cooked through. Serve with reserved marinade.

6 4 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

home.”

Jones took over the Suisse Shop nine years ago, but kept the recipes for the Europeanstyle tortes the bakery is known for: Suisse Almond, Black Forest, Chocolate Decadence. The bakery also turns out terrific cupcakes and pastries.

At home, Jones favors dishes that can be quickly prepared from her well-stocked refrigerator and freezer and enjoyed by a crowd, though

she’s not beyond whipping up a mousse for dessert.

Robin Davis is food editor of the Columbus Dispatch.

Our selection of craft beers, wine, and specialty spirits will amaze you.

The Suisse Shop Bakery 2119 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris 614-846-5102; thesuisseshop.com Hours: 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday, 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday

What’s always in your Kitchen?

1

2

“I’ll slice some peaches and put vanilla powder on them,” she said. “Or make a green salad with toasted walnuts and put in fresh strawberries or raspberries.”

She has all kinds of cheeses, and especially likes to make Jarlsberg dip with shredded cheese, mayonnaise and chopped onion to serve on crackers.

Fruit

Cheeses

3

Heavy cream She uses it in everything from biscuits and shortcakes to mousse and even in pasta.

Your house of steaks since 1955

Juicy Steaks | Succulent Lobster | Live Piano

4

Shrimp “I keep big tiger shrimp in the freezer,” she said. She marinates them in Cajun seasoning then grills them.

“It’s great finger food.”

5

Nuts Jones uses walnuts for salads and sliced almonds for dishes such as green bean amandine.

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trends

openings

downtown Decades ago, when we went out to eat in Columbus, we went Downtown.

Are diners finally ready to come back?

Story by kristen schmidt l Photos by alysia burton

6 8 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Happy hour on the Milestone 229 patio

When Elizabeth Lessner says it’s been a challenge to open restaurants Downtown, she’s making a gross understatement.

When Lessner, who owns three restaurants in the Downtown district, opened Dirty Frank’s in 2009, she contended directly with crime. A gunshot victim staggered into the restaurant one day. She witnessed a stabbing.

But she also saw the block—Fourth Street between Rich and Main—change over time. Police frequent the area more often. Little Palace has gone from being a run-down, infrequently open restaurant to a hipster hotspot. Customers now crowd the doorway at Dirty Frank’s.

“In three years it has changed so much,” she said.

Other restaurateurs are seeing what Lessner is seeing.

An impressive number of restaurants has opened in the city’s center in the past year. Among them: The newest MoJoe Lounge outlet, Milestone 229, Element Pizza, Lexi’s on Third, Market 65 and Lessner’s own Jury Room. And more are on the way.

Of course, there was a time when all of the city’s dining destinations were Downtown. But over the years, the restaurants left the city’s center, along with the stores— and the crowds. Lunch spots have always done well, but not so long ago, Downtown was a ghost town after 5 p.m.

People who run restaurants Downtown today say they’re attracted by the neighborhood’s revival, seen in major civic projects like the Scioto Mile and Columbus Commons, and by the construction of more residences. Gourmet grocer The Hills Market will open a Downtown location in spring 2012.

But the challenges—parking, not quite enough density, lack of retail and service businesses, strings of vacant storefronts—are daunting.

Downtown gets its mojo back

M

ark Swanson, president of MoJoe Lounge, had been scouting a fourth location for his business, and Downtown was looking more attractive.

“We felt this was the right time to be Downtown,” he

said. “There’s a place going in near Jury Room, and there’s Jury Room, and you see Little Palace and Dirty Frank’s and Market 65… There’s a lot of activity south of Broad.”

The newest MoJoe Lounge opened in July in the southeast corner of the Lazarus Building, directly across from Columbus Commons. The kitchen is churning out inventive dishes through the casual MoJoe lens.

Swanson said the first months in the space have

w i n t e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l 6 9

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openings

brought surprises both positive and negative. Happy hour business was better than expected, but weekend mornings have been slow. MoJoe started serving brunch this month.

“It’s going to take a while for folks to know we’re here and we’re consistently open,” Swanson said.

Swanson, like plenty of other business owners who venture into emerging neighborhoods, has staked a good portion of his new location on hope and likelihood.

“There are vacant storefronts around us, but we believe those will fill in. I know that real estate agents are showing them,” he said.

MoJoe locations are specifically built to rely on their neighborhoods—Short North, German Village, Easton—for business. The newest one might prove a test of that model.

“We genuinely hope that we can earn a living in our neighborhoods, but we also believe we’re in good neighborhoods. Our priority in each neighborhood store is that neighborhood. Those are our regulars, our bread and butter,” Swanson said.

Swanson’s not the only one banking on more housing, more business and more people Downtown. In September Yavonne Sarber was waist-deep in the creation of De-Novo, a 4,000-square-foot bistro under the Kyrie’s Cafe sign at 201 S. High St. Sarber,

Lunch rush on Gay Street

“There are vacant storefronts around us, but we believe those will fill in.”

–Mark Swanson 7 0 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

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trends

openings

whose Vonn Jazz is located near Worthington, said she scouted Downtown for months before settling on her space.

“We kind of feel we need to get in before we can’t,” she said. “We see the rapid growth Downtown, and this is a good time where we can afford to get in. I believe in a couple years, there’s going to be quite a bit more down there.”

Sarber’s project lured Chef Robert Harrison, who most recently ran the kitchen at the now defunct Short Story Brasserie in Granville. De-Novo is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with seating for about 120, and an additional 20 spots at the bar.

“It’s a place you can stop a few times a week,” Sarber said.

Attract & retain

T

hat’s music to the ears of economicdevelopment groups that are working to promote business—and restaurants, specifically—Downtown.

“Our city has allocated a lot of resources to developing Downtown, and they realized all along that an important component was going to be a vibrant food scene,” said Katharine Moore, executive director of Dine Originals, a coalition of independently owned restaurants. “Is it a big risk? Yes it is. I think it takes that entrepreneurial spirit to imagine carving out a place for yourself in a new landscape.”

Kacey Brankamp loves finding places in that landscape for restaurants. As retail recruiter for the Capital Crossroads Special Improvement District, she matches potential retail and restaurant tenants

The Players

Meet the people bringing dining back Downtown

Elizabeth Lessner Her restaurants:

Dirty Frank’s, 248 S. Fourth St. Jury Room, 2 E. Mound St. Tip Top Kitchen and Cocktails, 73 E. Gay St.

7 2 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Doug Griggs and Mike Campbell Their restaurant:

Milestone 229, 229 Civic Center Dr.

Yavonne Sarber Her restaurant:

De-Novo, 201 S. High St.

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openings

Evening crowds on Fourth Street outside Dirty Frank’s with available space Downtown. Capital Crossroads is a public-private partnership that acts as a big condo association for a neighborhood.

“They say that retail follows rooftops…but I think Downtown is a unique counter to that,” Brankamp said. “You have 100,000 daytime workers, 9 million visitors and a growing residential population with 65,000 residents in adjacent neighborhoods. And there’s a large student population of 40,000 students. There’s a huge demand for retail goods and services.”

There are plenty of challenges. There’s a perception that Downtown is less safe than other neighborhoods.

Restaurants rarely have dedicated parking lots. Locating on certain stretches of Downtown can be isolating, and businesses would rather

cluster together. And the right space is hard to come by; many of the most charming spaces do not contain kitchens. Building one is expensive, and in many older buildings, the process would be structurally complicated.

Downtown restaurants, more than businesses in, say, German Village or the Short North, depend on events to get customers in the door, Moore said. A softball league tournament last August was a huge boost for restaurants Downtown. So was an extended run of “Wicked.”

The guys behind the Columbus Brewing Company restaurant—Doug Griggs and Mike Campbell—had wanted to open another restaurant, but Downtown wasn’t the focus of their location search.

Until they started hearing more about the Scioto Mile.

7 4 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

“The first thing you hear is, ‘We’re redoing the park and it’s going to have a fountain,’ and then you hear ‘patio,’ ‘great views.’ The more we found out about it, the more excited we became,” Griggs said.

Milestone 229 has a threeyear lease on the one-of-a-kind space on the Scioto Mile, with an option to extend the lease.

From the dining room or patio, diners get a breathtaking view of the Scioto River, the Columbus skyline and sunset.

The menu straddles a line between upscale and casual fare, offering pizzas and sandwiches but also dressier entrees and a slick cocktail menu.

There is literally no other restaurant like it in Columbus, so it’s an interesting experiment in restaurant ownership.

Milestone’s greatest built-in asset is its perch on a wildly

popular new public space.

But that public space—like Columbus Commons—will be far less of a draw in February than it is in July. Though programming in Bicentennial Park was a boon to Milestone in the summer, Griggs thinks the business will hold its own even in colder weather.

“We knew going in that there was going to be some seasonability,” Griggs said.

“We want to do a good enough job with the restaurant itself that we could stand

“Nothing would make me happier than to see Downtown pop.”

–Elizabeth Lessner

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openings

on our own… I think we’ve done that. The feedback’s been good.”

Destination dining

L

essner frequently heads to Twitter to encourage people to come Downtown to the Jury Room, luring diners with delicious descriptions. But she acknowledges it’s tough to build momentum in a Downtown restaurant.

On recent Friday and Saturday evenings, when her Surly Girl and Betty’s in the Short North were buzzing with diners, Jury Room was sleepy and not quite half-full.

“The Downtown locations are harder, but they’re more rewarding,” said Lessner, who also owns Tip Top Kitchen & Cocktails Downtown.

“We can’t take customers for granted Downtown. In the Short North, you have a steady stream of people all the time… Downtown isn’t quite dense enough yet.”

Griggs echoed that.

“We’re very destination specific,” he said. “You have to decide you’re going to [our] area and drive there. There are not other businesses around.”

Lessner knows that scenario well. When she opened Tip Top about five years ago, Gay Street was not the bustling dining destination it is now.

Far from it.

“We love being first in an area that’s revitalizing. Just the idea of being part of our city coming back [is exciting],” Lessner said. “If I can contribute in a meaningful way, if I can bring back some vibrancy, nothing would make me happier than to see Downtown pop.”

glory days

Remembering some dearly departed Downtown restaurants Story by j ill moorhead

The Neil House (41 S. High St.)

The hotel across the street from the Ohio Statehouse was a hangout and oldschool meat market for the government and business leaders who frequented its restaurants and bars throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

When the third and final incarnation of the Neil House closed in 1980, it would, at least for one customer, be remembered more for what went on inside its doors than atop its plates. “I once saw my fifth grade teacher in the lobby trying to hook up,” one patron recalls. How sordid!

Benny Klein’s Steak House

Dispatch file photo

trends

(12 N. High St.)

The original locavore, Benny Klein was known for proselytizing pickles he made from northern Ohio produce at his restaurant.

A lobbyist and legislator hangout, his restaurant became a bar association of sorts, with many a legal decision between lawyer and judge being made on its tables—underneath the fake tree that enveloped the walls and ceilings.

Band leader Joe Dunlap recounts a group of lawyers bringing in 100 canaries and letting them loose

7 6 l C o l u m b u s c r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

within the “branches” of the majestic tree. “Of course, you know where the birds went. And you know what they did when they were up there for awhile,” Dunlap said. “Benny could have killed those guys.”

Maramor

(137 E. Broad St.) Mary Love McGuckin, the first owner of Columbus’

beloved Maramor, may have paved the way for women restaurateurs today.

Maramor was famed for specialty dishes like vichyssoise and the Floating Island, a dessert of meringue in a bed of light custard.

But it was the restaurant’s arcade, filled with sweets and chocolates, that gave this place its legacy— Maramor chocolates can still be purchased throughout the country today.

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icon

the critic

Restaurant critic accepts bribe!

Sto ry by j i l l m o o r h ea d l P h oto by will shilling

Doral Chenoweth can tell a tale.

H

e got his start as a professional meddler with his Tattle Tales column in the city’s first tabloid, the Columbus Star. For 25 years, he reviewed restaurants for the Columbus Dispatch as

the Grumpy Gourmet. Yes, the man has a healthy respect for gossip. So much so, he’s the owner and editor of the website gossipisgood.com.

I’ve swapped stories with the Grump for almost a decade, being sure to abide

7 8 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Longtime reviewer the Grumpy Gourmet turned 90 this year. We enticed him to spill the beans about what he’s been up to since putting down his pen and fork.

by his two rules: Do not call him before noon. Do not ask how he is. (He will tell you, and chances are, he’ll mention his urologist.)

To have a conversation with the Grump is to have a front-row seat to some of Columbus’ best behind-thescenes restaurant stories and

a glimpse of our city’s history as recorded in the pages of at least three newspapers.

The longtime restaurant critic turned 90 this year and is as much a Columbus classic as White Castle, Johnny Marzetti, the Clarmont and Katzinger’s.

Although his column is retired, his work is far from

Trivia!

The Grump visited the same place for his first and last reviews: The Top Steak House.

complete. His current project, foodreportingsyllabus.com, is a culmination of a lifetime of writing, designed to be a “no-note, no-tuition graduate course in restaurant food writing.”

I recently bribed him with a jar of pepper jelly to learn a little about his career as a critic and get his take on the current state of the Columbus restaurant scene.

Your first Columbus paper was the Columbus Citizen Journal in the 1950s, and you eventually worked for the Columbus Star, a somewhat trashy and scandalous tabloid. Did you start out reviewing food?

I was covering odd beats for the Citizen Journal. One day the editor stuck his hand up and yelled, “Is there an atheist in the house?” The assistant city editor pointed at me. I went over there and he said, “How would you like to earn an extra $25 on a Sunday?”

I said, “I’ll take it.”

“What do you think of this?

Go to a different church every Sunday and cover the services like you’re covering a movie. I don’t want any opinion. I just want you to do a review.”

This has always stuck with me. There’s a difference between reporter, reviewer and critic. And he wanted me to review church services. And I did that. It was a fun beat.

about the restaurant industry?

Oh yeah, it had to. You didn’t gossip about the restaurants. You gossiped about humanity.

How did you start working for the Star?

I’m sitting there on a Sunday night writing my “reporter goes to church” column. I’d become bored with it. And “Paul Pry,” the gossip columnist for the Star, couldn’t produce. The editor, Danny Flavin, a friend of mine, said if I had some items for this Tattle Tales column to let him know. I’d give him a take and he’d slip me a $20 bill.

I wasn’t on the payroll for the Star, but I was passing this stuff on. I’m sitting in the lobby one day, reading the paper. Along comes the editor and Eddie Wolfe, the associate publisher. They come over and say, “You got anything else we can use?”

I said, “The rector of this church down here, every afternoon at 4 p.m. is going down to Pale Eddies (where the Dispatch parking lot is now). He goes with his secretary and they sit there and drink Manhattans out of coffee cups.”

Eddie Wolfe says, “No kidding.” I said, “Go check it out yourself.”

It may have been that afternoon that those two guys haul ass down to Pale Eddies, and sure enough, those two were sitting there with dark libations in a coffee cup.

Danny wrote this on Tuesday. Hits the paper on Wednesday. It was the lead item. On Thursday, the rector was gone. That sealed my credentials with the Wolfes and Danny.

In your writing, you’ve done a lot to educate the public about what they’re eating.

Do you think that’s what your life’s work has been about, or is it more in helping to teach future journalists—readers of your Food Reporting Syllabus—to follow in your footsteps?

I don’t care if they follow in my footsteps, but I want them to know what my path was. I think that I have accomplished something in my food writing.

If nothing else, the biggest thing, the biggest battle was the matter of ethics.

You just violated my ethical standards tonight by bringing

me that Rothschild dip which I like. But since it’s 10 years since I wrote an opinion column, I’ll accept it. Ethics is a constant fight.

We’ve lost several fine dining establishments recently.

Handke’s, Bexley’s Monk...

We didn’t lose Handke’s because of problems. He’s 65 years old. He’d been on his feet since he was 15. He sold it three years ago, got the money and went away with it.

He had the best restaurant in the worst location in the city. He is America’s master chef, and he was never promoted by the city. They didn’t brag on him.

Today they brag on the Short North, but they don’t brag on the best chef up there: Kent Rigsby. Absolutely.

The most innovative, hardworking guy.

Did your time at the Star teach you how to gossip w i n t e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 7 9

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the critic

Let’s Dish!

Assorted Grumpy Gourmet publicity photos from the Dispatch archives

The Grump on his three best-ever meals in Columbus 1. Handke’s Day-After-Thanksgiving Luncheon, 2006 “One of the best meals ever in my 6,000-plus meals [mostly] in Columbus was at Handke’s. Chunky lobster stew, roasted whole foie gras, braised Kobe beef short ribs, sauteed venison loin, a pear-almond torte and a port wine-poached pear.”

2. D’Angelo at Rigsby’s Kitchen “It used to make [Kent Rigsby] mad. When I wanted to read my mail in the afternoon, I’d take it over to the big round table at Rigsby’s and order the D’Angelo.

The dish is still on the menu. It’s nothing in the world but a buttered spaghetti with scallions and things like that. It’s a pasta dish. Rigsby kind of grumbled, ‘That’s all you have. Every time you come here, you have to have that.’

‘Well,’ I said, ‘I’m not reviewing. I’m just sitting here drinking wine, reading my mail.’”

3. Orange Chicken at Sun Tong Luck “I hate to low-rent you, but I like the Orange Chicken. It’s equal to their pad Thai. I just like the meals at that little place.”

The Grump’s three favorite takeout meals 1. “Subway’s meatball sub loaded with black olives” 2. “Anything at Katzinger’s” 3. “My favorite right now is Piada, which is going to be a chain. I do the pasta and the chicken. I’ve told Chris Doody that when he goes public, I want to buy the first unit.”

8 0 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

What do you think creates longevity in a restaurant, especially in the current economic situation?

Today? Quality of food, I think. Which also has to be huckstered. You can have the best food in town, but if you don’t huckster it, it’s going to flop. One of the nicest menus in this town is L’Antibes. He ought to be serving 88 to 100 every night. But he can’t do it.

You can have the best food in the world, but if no one knows about it...

There’s an entire culture of “foodies” now, which exists, in part, due to television shows about food. You’ve written that Julia Child increased Americans’ knowledge of food more than anyone in her time. Who, in the past 50 years, has had the

most impact on how we view food?

Rachael Ray. She’s made it fun. She says, “I’m not a chef.”

She’s very knowledgeable of food. She low-rents herself, but I think she’s great. She’s not up there bam-bamming.

I have objections to her. She needs a hairnet. And she used to wipe her mouth on her sleeve. But that’s OK. You recently turned 90. What did you do for your birthday?

Do you know Geoff Hetrick?

Director of the Ohio Restaurant Association? He brought me 90 oatmeal cookies.

Ninety.

Did you eat all of them?

I worked on it. What did I do for my 90th? That’s all.

I don’t celebrate birthdays, holidays or Sundays.

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entree

Over Nothing’s more indulgent than spending the holidays at a high-end steakhouse Sto ry by s h el l e y M ann l P h otos by w i ll sh i ll i ng l st yl ing by El i zabet h S ol i nge r

If it were up to us, every holiday meal would take place at a restaurant.

Think about it. Eating out instead of hosting at home means there’s no stressing out about overcooking the turkey, no need to mediate between family members who prefer pecan pie over pumpkin, and, most importantly, no cleaning up afterward.

And office holiday parties held at a restaurant trump the same old office potluck in every way.

So go ahead and indulge in some holiday fine dining this season, whether it’s booking your own private party or patronizing the handful of places that stay open on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. Or steal our idea and throw a retro Christmas party at The Top in Bexley. w i n t e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 8 5

entree

Holiday Dining

8 6 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

Retro Christmas at The Top The Top started serving charbroiled steaks, jumbo lobster tails and oversized sides in 1955, and little has changed since.

The look (low lights, wood paneling, sumptuous black Naugahyde booths) and the feel (swinging ’60s supper club) are the same, and the steakhouse even still includes potatoes and salads in the entree price as a throwback to the good old days.

So it’s fitting to celebrate at this Columbus icon “Mad Men”style: in vintage cocktail dresses and with plenty of cocktails in hand. Leave the rest up to The Top—it already feels festive in there, thanks to live Rat-Pack-era standards at the piano bar and constantly flowing, extra-stiff drinks.

The restaurant’s not open on Christmas Day, but they do accept reservations for holiday parties and offer a cozy private dining room that can seat up to 14 people.

We’ve got ideas on how to celebrate the season in every corner of the Bexley landmark.

The Top Steak House

2891 E. Main St., Bexley 614-231-8238 thetopsteakhouse.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday w i n t e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l 8 7

entree

Holiday Dining

Our Menu Here’s how to do it up at The Top Starter:

Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail: Impossibly plump, perfectly cooked pink shrimp dangle seductively from the edge of a bowl of old-school tangy cocktail sauce.

Mains:

Filet Mignon: The holidays demand the most magnificent cuts of meat, like towering, buttery filet.

Jumbo Lobster Tail: Surf-and-Turf was once the epitome of fine dining. And it doesn’t get better than the Top’s filet paired with its famed gigantic lobster tail (served with plenty of melted butter, of course).

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Coming Soon!

Newly expanded and remodeled dining room!

KING GYROS GREEK RESTAURANT 400 S. HAMILTON RD. WHITEHALL 866-9008 •

WWW.KINGGYROS.COM

Private parties for up to 70 guests

Kimchi Mandoo Soup

1138 Bethel Rd. Columbus, OH 43220 www.sansubbq.com

614.273.0188 Join us on

Tofu Teriyaki

entree

Holiday Dining

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Sides:

Baked Potatoes: The skin’s fantastically crisp and salty, and the fluffy potato innards soak up the Top’s signature ice-cream-scoop-worth serving of butter and sour cream.

Au Gratin Potatoes: It’s Christmas! Go for double potato side dishes. Served in a mini casserole dish, these potatoes come out extracheesy and still bubbly.

Roasted Asparagus: Pretend to be healthy by ordering a green vegetable! (Also just pretend it’s not covered in creamy hollandaise.)

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Holiday Dining

Desserts:

The Top doesn’t mess with the classics. Split a towering slice of rich New York Cheesecake or a triple-layer Chocolate Cake.

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Holiday Dining

After-dinner treats:

Top Cappuccinos: Dessert’s long gone, but it’s nowhere near time to head home. Huddle near the fireplace with mugs of Top Cappuccinos. Don’t expect these espresso drinks to sober you up, though—they aren’t your typical cappuccinos. It’s coffee kicked up a notch with five different liquors.

Bar Burger: An evening of gin and vodka demands a late-night snack. The Top’s Bar Burger will do the trick. It’s six ounces of juicy ground steak on a buttered and charred Kaiser roll.

Meet our models: Aaron Bishara plays drums for the Wet Darlings Robbie Furtado is a Boston transplant and super-foodie Michael Galusick is a local filmmaker Joyce Goren makes artisan New York-style bagels at The Bagel Tree Kristen Kouvas blogs about food at beautyandmyfeast.com Tae’Lor Miller is a student at the Ohio Center for Broadcasting Todd Mills is the marketing director for Local Matters Colin Northrup has bartended at Mouton and The Rossi Josh Quinn owns Tigertree in the Short North Lisa Ragland blogs about the city at ilovecolumbus.tumblr.com Erin Traxler makes T-shirts at Traxler Tees Nik Victor is a student at Ohio State and an outdoor enthusiast 9 4 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

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entree

Holiday Dining

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ON THE TOWN More holiday fine dining options

Thanksgiving at the Clarmont The Clarmont’s Thanksgiving service is legendary. Many couples and families return year after year to feast on turkey, potatoes, dressing and whatever else the chef decides to whip up.

“Maybe they don’t have any family in town, they don’t want to cook at home and worry about a mess,” said Clarmont owner Thom Coffman. “They know they can come in and depend on us to give them a great holiday meal.”

The Clarmont

684 S. High St., Downtown 614-443-1125 clarmontrestaurant.com

New Year’s Eve at Latitude 41 The best part about a restaurant located in a hotel?

It’s open every day of the year. Book a room at the Renaissance, spend New Year’s Eve feasting on Chef David MacLennan’s innovative American fare, stumble upstairs—and then keep the party going in the morning on New Year’s Day. Latitude also books private holiday parties, and can section off any part of the dining room using the restaurant’s signature red curtains. “We work with the customer to set the menu,” MacLennan said.

“Each party is designed for them.”

Latitude 41

50 N. Third St., Downtown 614-233-7541 latitude41restaurant.com

G. Michael’s

595 S. Third St., German Village 614-464-0575 gmichaelsbistro.com G. Michael’s offers Thanksgiving Day service, with their regular dinner menu plus a traditional roast turkey special—including a slice of pumpkin pie.

Lindey’s

169 E. Beck St., German Village 614-228-4343; lindeys.com Lindey’s has offered holiday buffets in the past, but this year they’re doing smaller a la carte menus with traditional turkey-and-potatoes-type dishes on Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Eve. On New Year’s Eve, expect a threecourse, fixed-price menu.

Salvi’s Bistro

5000 Upper Metro Pl., Dublin 614-874-0466 salvisbistro.com

TOP NOTCH, HOUSE MADE, COMFORTABLE SETTING Breakfast and lunch served all day. www.tasicafe.com | 680 N. Pearl St. | 614.222.0788

FOR THE GREAT TASTE OF MEXICO

IT’S THE AWARD WINNING...

The comfy Italian spot is open Nov. 24 with its Thanksgiving Grand Buffet. Along with roast turkey, cornbread dressing and whole cranberry sauce, there’s prime rib, baked ham and the beloved Pasta Salvi.

Worthington Inn

649 High St., Worthington 614-885-2600; worthingtoninn.com The venerable inn draws big crowds for its traditional Thanksgiving buffet, filled with turkey and all the fixings.

“It’s everything you’d expect to get at grandma’s house,” said chef Thomas Smith. On Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve, patrons can order from limited a la carte menus of holiday specials. Worthington Inn is closed Christmas Day.

HAPPY H HOUR H MON-FRI RI 4-7 PM MON-SAT 8AM-10PM Join us on

www.cucostaqueria.com

2162 W. Henderson Rd. • 614.538.8701

Savor a Slice of the Season Cimi’s new fall menu features local ingredients, like seasonal pies prepared completely from scratch by Grove City farm market’s “Pie Lady.” Sink your fork into the world’s flakiest crust piled high with fresh fruit or cream filling.

[HINT: Reserve your slice when seated!]

Or, get your mouth around Cimi’s new half-pound Bison Burger, locally raised at Ohio Bison Farm in Grove City.

Other new menu items you’ll want to try include: Arancini Signature Potato Skins Hot Shrimp Cocktail Smoked Chicken Chowder Black Bean Chorizo Chili Fish & Grits Sweet & Spicy Apricot Salmon Espresso Rubbed Lamb Chops Chicken and Dumplings Quail Risotto Grilled Chicken Korma Chicken Lollipops Crab Manicotti White Cheddar Truffle Macaroni & Cheese

At Cimi’s Bistro you’ll come in for view... and come back for the food.

View the complete new menu at cimisbistro.com

1500 Pinnacle Club Drive | Grove City | 614.539.0397 | cimisbistro.com

d

drink Moscow Mule harvest pizzeria 495 S. Fourth St., German Village 614-824-1769 harvestpizzeria.com

raise the jar The newest craze in glassware has, in fact, been around for generations.

More and more restaurants are serving drinks in Mason jars, glass containers whose original use was to preserve food. Harvest Pizzeria uses them for beer and cocktails, like this Moscow Mule made with Oyo Vodka and ginger beer. Drinks at Element Pizza come out in the jars, too. But they’re not just for beverages—Mason jars get filled with gorgeous sundaes at Jeni’s, and with banana pudding and other desserts at Milestone 229.

Story by S helley M ann l Photo by jodi miller

drink

Seasonal

Warm up with Surly Girl’s winter cocktails Story by l au r e n w i l s o n l P h otos by W i l l s hilling

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drink

Seasonal

W

inter can be a cold, cruel season in Ohio.

Luckily we have places like the warm and cozy Surly Girl Saloon to hole up in while we wait out the sleet and snow.

And the Southwestern-style comfort food emporium has a new collection of boozy delights waiting to warm you up, courtesy of Saloon co-owner Carmen Owens and bar manager Keith Thompson.

The Short North bar maintains a constantly evolving list of fun, seasonal cocktails, and keeping things interesting requires lots of legwork.

“We do lots of research and experimenting,” Owens said.

“Keith’s desk starts to look like a science lab with all the new things he’s working on.”

Owens and Thompson scour magazines and trade shows for sparks of libation inspiration. This winter’s menu revolves around Catdaddy Moonshine, a trade-show find from a year ago that the duo could hardly wait to work onto the menu.

“Being a saloon, moonshine is a great fit for us,” Owens said. “Catdaddy is a spiced moonshine that tastes kind of like eggnog. It’s a creative seasoning of an uncommon spirit, so it’s right up our alley.”

Crave got to spend an evening with Surly Girl’s drink masters and sample their newest cocktails. Plus, we scored the recipes so you can bring a little Surly home for the holidays.

Hot Buttered Moonshine Ingredients 1 oz. spiced butter 1.5 oz. Catdaddy Moonshine 6 oz. hot water Serve in a footed mug with cinnamon stick This cure for the winter blues is like the butterscotch candies Grandpa kept in his pocket … if Grandpa’s pockets were filled with rocket fuel.

Surly Sidecar Ingredients 1 oz. brandy 1 oz. Domaine de Canton 4 oz. fresh apple cider Serve in a martini glass with a cinnamon-sugar rim and orange wedge This is Owens’ favorite of the bunch. “I adore Sidecars,” she said. “We added fresh cider for another layer of flavor and a cinnamon-sugar rim because it’s delicious.”

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When we say local, we mean it.

For us, local is a way of life. It defines us and every spirit we handcraft from scratch. Local doesn’t mean bringing grain or pre-made spirits in from another state and treating it here in Ohio. It doesn’t mean settling for a less-expensive ingredient from the next state over.

Local means using the world- class resources that are right in our backyard, at all costs. Because local— truly local —supports our communities and creates incredible flavor with a distinctive sense of place.

Yes, it’s that simple.

Ristorante Pizzeria Bar Serving great food for over 30 years!

Pizza • Pasta • Subs Salads • Dinners 5545 N. High St • Columbus

614-846-5777 • www.villanovacolumbus.com

PRECISION PRECISIO PRE PR RECISI ECISIO S O ON N AIR CLEANING AIR DUCT D

• Detailed cleaning of air duct systems in residential housing • We clean ALL of it - Not just some of it

Public Tours Weds. & Fri. 6pm

• Lowering heating bills / Better air quality / Longer furnace life

For reservations contact tours@middlewestspirits.com

1230 Courtland Ave, Columbus OH 43201. Distilled from grain.

40-46% Alc. by vol. © 2010 Middle West Spirits. Columbus OH.

3895 Business Park Drive 614-398-6080 www.healthyfurnace.com

drink

Seasonal

Mexican Hot Chocolate Ingredients 1.5 oz. Patron XO Cafe 1 oz. Monin Spicy Chocolate Syrup Hot chocolate Serve in a footed mug topped with marshmallows This is turbo-charged hot cocoa. The spicy chocolate syrup pleasantly stings the back of the throat while a full shot of coffee-spiked tequila warms the belly.

Candied Apple Ingredients 1 oz. cinnamon-cherry-infused Bulleit Bourbon 1 oz. green apple vodka 1 oz. cranberry juice Splash of soda Serve in a Collins glass with ice Don’t let the apple vodka fool you. This is no cloying, electric-green concoction. It’s tart, candy-apple goodness with a bourbon-y kick in the teeth.

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Home of the Hangover Sandwich Breakfast Lunch Dinner

Tremont

Chef-O-Nette

Daily Specials Since 1955

2090 Tremont Center Upper Arlington 614-488-8444 chefonette.com “NIGHTLY SPECIALS BRING THE FAMILY TOGETHER.”

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN WORTHINGTON

Sunday: 8oz Sirloin dinner - $9.99 all day Monday: Pick-a-pasta night - $9.99 Tuesday: Two for $10.00 quesadillas Wednesday: Lasagna - $8.99 after 4pm Thursday: Homemade Meatloaf all day long

Nightly Specials Experience the stunning variety of fresh seafood, steak, and pasta selections at Rivage Atlantique 652 High St. Worthington, OH 614-505-7779 • Reservations Accepted www.rivageatlantique.com

Old Mohawk Restaurant 819 Mohawk St. German Village 444.7204 Open every day www.theoldmohawk.com Open Sundays & Mondays 11am - 10pm • Tuesday - Thursday 11am - 11pm Friday & Saturday 11am - 12am

drink

Seasonal

Ginger Garland Ingredients 1 oz. Watershed Gin .5 oz. Pama Pomegranate Liqueur 1 teaspoon fig jam 3 oz. ginger ale Serve in a Collins glass with ice and lime garnish Wow. Earthy sweet figs dance with the fruity, botanical Watershed Gin. “The flavors really came together beautifully,” said Thompson, who counts it as one of his favorites.

Winter Warmer Ingredients 1.5 oz. orange-and-cinnamon-infused Oyo Vodka 1.5 oz. cranberry juice Serve in a rocks glass with ice This cheery drink captures the holiday spirit in liquid form. It’s tart and refreshing and as red as Rudolph’s nose, but the house-infused Oyo adds a spicy punch.

Best Bets

Surly Girl takes pride in shaking up its cocktail menu to suit the season, but some additions are so beloved they reappear year after year. This year’s returning favorites include the devilishly delicious Satan’s Little Helper and the wildly popular Smoking Gun.

Satan’s Little Helper

Smoking Gun

Ingredients 1.5 oz. cinnamon-cherry-infused Bulleit Bourbon Root beer Serve in Collins glass with ice and cherry garnish

Ingredients 1.5 oz. clove-and-vanilla bean-infused pear vodka 6 oz. hot apple cider Serve in footed mug

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Options Available

Clintonville - 5060 N High St 614-885-0101 Short North - 945 N High St 614-299-3289 zpizza.com

H C N U L R O F OPEN

n i s b u S s t e B The ille!

v n o t Clin

Daily Specials

590 OAKLAND PARK (IN CLINTONVILLE)

614-261-9355

drink

local liqueur

secret recipe

New Albany couple’s hip new Tessora Limone has a closely guarded history Story by fai th d ura nd l Ph otos by A lysi a burton

G

eorge and Lynda Vergits have a secret, and they want to share part of it with you. They want you to taste their Tessora Limone liqueur, the sweet results of a secret family recipe. But if you ask the New Albany couple too intently about the recipe itself, the Vergits get coy. This is one family secret that’s staying in the closet.

What is Tessora Limone?

Start with the freezer, which is where your bottle should be.

The liquid inside pours slow, thick and opaque, unlike the more familiar clear limoncello.

It is ice cold on the tongue, a sip of pure lemon fragrance with a smoothness like melted ice cream, followed by a heady rush of alcohol. It is creamy, balanced and delicious.

The Vergits never expected to be in the alcohol business.

Lynda’s parents emigrated from the Abruzzo region of Italy, and they brought a recipe for a creamy lemon liqueur that they would serve to

Buy it You’ll find Tessora behind the bar at nearly 100 Columbus restaurants and clubs, or pick up a bottle at one of these stores: l Ale Wine and Spirits l The Andersons l The Barrel and Bottle l Carfagna’s l Europia Wine and Spirits l Gentile’s l Giant Eagle l Hausfrau Haven l The Hills l House Wine l Huffman’s Market l MacLaren Wines l Meza l Sher Bliss l Rife’s Market l The Twisted Vine l Weiland’s l The Wine Guy Wine Shop l Wine on High

Tessora Limone tessora-liqueur.com

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friends and family. George and Lynda knew there was nothing else like it on the market.

“The recipe was so unique,” says George, “and everyone who tasted it was blown away.”

Why not create a business and see if there was a wider audience for this unique liqueur?

The Vergits took the plunge. They rented a facility near their New Albany home and set up production of the liqueur. Each bottle is produced there by hand, just as it is at home, each batch taking about a week from start to finish. The ingredients (secret ingredients!) are sourced from throughout the United States.

The week before Christmas 2010, George and Lynda held their first tasting, at The Hills

Market, and it was a smashing success. Now, less than a year later, Tessora Limone is carried in shops throughout Dayton, Cincinnati and Central Ohio, including all local Giant Eagle stores. The Vergits also offer shipping through partners listed on their website, tessora-liqueur.com.

But perhaps their greatest success has been in restaurants. Last December they carefully packed a bottle on ice in a cooler and kept it freezing cold all the way to Tucci’s in Dublin, the first restaurant to try it. They served it as it should be: Neat, and freezing cold. Tucci’s bought it on the spot.

Since then, many more restaurants have picked up Tessora Limone, and some take it beyond the glass. Latitude 41 Latitude 41 incorporates the liqueur into its Tessora Limone Curd dessert, with toasted lemon poundcake and sliced blueberries

offers a Tessora Limone Curd dessert, and Devon Morgan, the pastry chef at Alana’s, has filled eclairs with a Tessora pastry cream. The Vergits also like the liqueur poured over berries or on ice cream.

The Vergits are planning several new products, also based on family recipes. The first to be released will be a more traditional limoncello, Tessora Limoncello Classica, expected out for the holidays.

“We want to take Tessora Limone into the coolest, trendiest restaurants in the country.”

But they aren’t neglecting their first and most unique liqueur.

“We want to take Tessora Limone into the coolest, trendiest restaurants in the country,” says George.� Columbus, with its thriving restaurant scene and enthusiasm for local products, was the ideal place to launch.

“One of the wonderful things about Columbus is the local push,” George says. “When people taste Tessora here there’s so much enthusiasm.”

Their secret is out of the bottle, and rightly so. Just don’t ask them what exactly they put in that bottle. This is one family secret that’s staying all wrapped up.

Faith Durand is managing editor of thekitchn.com.

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wine

gifts

holiday cheers

It’s holiday party season, which means it’s also party host gift season. We asked Donnie Austin, owner of House Wine in Worthington, to recommend good bottles of vino that have fun names and labels. So the next time you arrive bearing gifts, you can also make a memorable impression.

Story by b r i a n l i nda m o o d l P h oto by W i l l shilling

House Wine

644 High St., Worthington 614-846-9463 housewine.biz

The Guilty

Kung Fu Girl

Tastes like: Dark fruit and tons of black

Tastes like: Dry and crisp, with a little tart

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah, Washington ($13)

Give to: The party ninja who can juggle hot hors d’oeuvres, sling cold drinks and assassinate boring banter

enjoy brooding over this dark salute to American grapeness

2007 Shiraz, Australia ($25) pepper

Give to: The unapologetically naughty friend on your list who can appreciate a serious Shiraz and a seriously good time

2010 Riesling, Washington ($14) green apple and mineral

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Charles & Charles

Tastes like: Black fruit with a kick of spice Give to: The moody coworker who will

Bridesmaid

Educated Guess

X Winery

2009 Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon, California ($20)

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($21)

Tastes like: Bright and fruity, with a little

Tastes like: Ripe dark fruit, herbs and a

Give to: The woman who doesn’t buy the

Give to: A friend’s numbingly boring

honeydew and some richness

lie that she can wear the dress again

2009 Chardonnay, California ($20)

little dusty earthiness

spouse; this Cab will give you lots to discuss

Tastes like: Hints of oak and a richness that doesn’t obscure the fruit

Give to: The style maven who likes wine to complement the clean lines of his modern decor

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beer

growlers

draft pick Refillable bottles allow for on-tap microbrews at home

Story by Br i a n LInda m o o d l P h oto by J o d i Miller

J

ennifer Halda loves hoppy IPAs. And, when she visits different cities for her job in logistics, she loves to try new and unique offerings from local brewers.

But even for a logistics pro, it’s not easy to get the fresh taste of small-batch craft brews at home. That’s why Halda travels with her own carryout container: A halfgallon glass jug known as a growler.

“I keep an empty growler in my car, in case I’m somewhere and I find something I like,” she explained. “A lot of times

you can get beers on tap that you may not be able to find in a bottle.”

Growlers have long been a fixture at local brewpubs like Barley’s and Elevator. Now their use is spreading to other bars and a growing number of specialty retailers, fueled not just by beer lovers like Halda, but by locavore and green attitudes. Reusing your own beer bottle may be ultimate form of recycling.

The Barrel and Bottle, the wine and beer shop at the North Market, refills growlers from a rotating selection of three taps. (Barrel and Bottle

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Growlers on display at Barley’s Smokehouse and Brewpub sells the reusable glass containers for $5, and charges $10 to $12 for the four-pint refill, which are pretty typical prices.)

The shop focuses on Ohio brewers like Weasel Boy, Hoppin’ Frog and Columbus Brewing Company, according to co-owner Jen Burton, and since the selection changes every week, customers get a chance to try something different every time they stop by for a refill.

“We generally try to get things [brewers] don’t bottle, because that’s kind of the point,” Burton said. “It’s a way for people to get something at a retail store that they normally wouldn’t be able to get.”

Beer also travels better in a keg than in a six-pack, which results in a much fresher product in your growler. “Draft beer just tastes better,” Burton added.

And don’t forget the cool factor. “People get real excited when you show up at a party with a growler of fresh beer,” Halda said.

“There are a lot of great microbrews in Ohio. If you’re just getting into beer, seeking out those places is awesome,” she added. “I think the beer culture is gaining momentum, and growlers are becoming more popular. I would love to see that help local craft brewers blossom.”

Uncork Some Fun!

Keg Stands

Columbus markets, bars and restaurants that sell and refill beer growlers

Barley’s Brewing Company Ale House No. 1

BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse

The Barrel and Bottle

Columbus Brewing Company

467 N. High St., Short North 614-228-2537 barleysbrewing.com 59 Spruce St., North Market 614-221-5550 northmarket.com

House Wine

644 High St., Worthington 614-846-9463 housewine.biz

Park Street Tavern

501 Park St., Arena District 614-221-4099 parkstreettavern.com

Studio 35 Cinema

3055 Indianola Ave., Clintonville 614-261-1581 studio35.com

Whole Foods Market 1649 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington; 614-481-3400 wholefoodsmarket.com

1414 Polaris Pkwy., Polaris 614-885-1800 bjsbrewhouse.com

525 Short St., Brewery District 614-464-2739 columbusbrewingco.com

Just in time for the Holidays,tickets are available for the 22nd Annual

Cincinnati International Wine Festival March 8th-10th 2012

Get your tickets now!

Elevator Brewery and Draught Haus 161 N. High St., Downtown 614-228-0500 elevatorbrewing.com

Barley’s Smokehouse and Brewpub

1130 Dublin Rd., Grandview 614-485-0227 barleysbrewing.com

Gordon Biersch Brewery

513.723.9463 winefestival.com

FIRE

WATER

MOLD

DAMAGE

DAMAGE

401 N. Front St., Arena District 614-246-2900 gordonbiersch.com

good to go How to make the most of that beer in your growler

Filling station: Bars and retailers that accommodate growlers use a hose to fill from the bottom, minimizing foam Wrap the cap: A piece of electrical tape will help seal the bottle top and fend off air

In the dark: Amber growlers protect your beer from damaging light better than clear glass Keep your cool: If it comes out of a cold keg, you should get it into your fridge as soon as possible

Drink up: Beer will stay fresh in a sealed growler for a couple days, sometimes up to a week; once opened, you should enjoy it in one sitting

DAMAGE

Biohazard clean-up Experienced staff with knowledgeable skills Fire • Mold • Water Back-Up 3895 Business Park Dr. Columbus, OH 43204

877-309-PURO (7876) www.purocleanit.com

drink

coffee

worth the wait Local cafes are embracing the slow-brewed charm of pour-over coffee Story by J o h n ro ss l P h oto by jo d i m i l l e r

A

romas of chocolate, toffee, oak and even orange rind waft over the counter as Andy Luck adds water from a silver kettle to a filter holding a few ounces of freshly ground coffee beans.

He pours carefully, allowing small doses to agitate the grounds. With each batch, rich, fragrant coffee drips into the ceramic below.

Tired of your everyday joe?

Try ordering a pour-over coffee at one of the city’s artisan coffee shops, which are using this slow-but-sure brewing method to produce gourmet, handcrafted cups.

“The commuter who comes in and wants 20 ounces of coffee to go—it’s not their thing,” said Luck, who owns Luck Bros’ Coffee House in Grandview. “It’s kind of a trip for people to hear that the coffee’s not ready yet and that we’ve got to make it first.”

Pour-over coffee uses the same ingredients as your home brewer, a great aunt’s percolator or a $5 camp stove.

The difference, Luck said, comes from attention to detail and an intimate knowledge of the brewing process.

“The most important piece of brewing equipment is your brain,” he explained. “You try to control all these variables, and you find what works best for you.”

Luck, for example, is careful to wet the filter first so the paper doesn’t absorb desirable oils. He wets the grounds to set off a “bloom” that releases taste-muting carbon dioxide.

He adds water through a long, thin spout that roils grounds evenly without extracting unwanted chemicals.

Depending on the device, a pour-over cup can take more than seven minutes to make, Luck said.

Still, many Columbus cafes

believe in the benefits of the more painstaking process.

Stauf’s Coffee Roasters in Grandview offers single-cup pour-over service to customers who want to sample from its global selection of whole beans. The store also retails a full line of pour-over devices.

“We became a distributor because we liked the method so much,” barista Grant Driskell said. “Since we got all these in, we’ve been selling quite a bit.”

Most of Cafe Brioso’s daily specials are brewed by the pour-over method, though in larger batches. This way, operations manager J.J. Justice explained, the Downtown spot can provide its morning rush with pour-over’s benefits, which include an inviting sweetness and a higher level of antioxidants.

“Pour-over gives you much more control over the extraction process,” Justice said. “In layman’s terms, it gives you more positives without the bitterness that we sometimes associate with coffee.”

“The commuter who wants 20 oz. of coffee to go–it’s not their thing.”

–Andy Luck

Pour it on:

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scene Closing time double take Twins Josh and Jeremy Cook are helming the kitchens at Mezzo and Hubbard Grille Story by Br i t ta ny K r es s l P h oto by j o d i m i ller

N

ot only is their last name Cook, but they’re twins. Can you imagine the pressure this duo faced coming up in the Columbus restaurant scene?

Seems the sibling rivalry paid off: Jeremy recently succeeded Josh at Hubbard Grille after Josh moved to Mezzo in Dublin, giving each brother his own neighborhood hotspot.

Since starting as busboys in high school, the Cooks have worked at many of the city’s best-known restaurants, including Tasi, La Scala and Barcelona. And when they’re not in the kitchen, they’re out eating (often together) at off-the-beaten-path ethnic spots.

Jeremy cook Age: 33 Executive chef

Hubbard grille 793 N. High St., Short North

Hometown: Columbus

l What’s your favorite thing to get at Hubbard Grille?

I have a braised lamb shank special right now, and I love it. It’s served with Brussels sprouts. Josh and I hated Brussels sprouts growing up, but we try to introduce people to them now. l What’s your favorite sand-

wich in town?

I like the Cuban-OH at Knead. Everything [owners] Rick and Kris Lopez do is great. l Where would you go for a

short orders

Where Jeremy Cook heads for something specific

hearty Italian dinner?

Moretti’s. I always get the sausage casserole. l When you go somewhere new, how do you evaluate it?

I always look at the appetizer menu first. It can say a lot. l So what’s the best appetizer menu you’ve seen?

Actually, I’ve been working on ours here [at Hubbard Grille]. We have a big happy hour crowd, and I’m working on bringing the apps up in scale.

Jeremy Cook, left, and Josh Cook

Mexican:

Sushi:

Sandwich:

Elegant meal:

“La Rancherita, on the Northwest Side.”

“Tora. I consider it food art. I also like Sushi.com and Mr. Sushi.”

“Corned beef sandwich at Heil’s Deli at the North Market.

Mmmm.”

“Barcelona. I love what Chef Paul Yow does with food.”

1 1 8 l C o l u m b u s C r av e . C O M l w i n t e r 2 0 1 1

josh cook Age: 33 Executive chef

Mezzo Ristorante 12 W. Bridge St., Dublin

Hometown: Columbus

l What are the most popular dishes at Mezzo?

Most of our orders are for filets. And grouper. The grouper is wrapped in prosciutto and served with polenta. l Where do you go for a quick lunch?

I get Vietnamese at the North Market [at Lac Viet]. I get the pho bo there. l What restaurant do you consider the city’s hidden gem?

General Tso’s. It’s in a strip mall on Bethel and Godown roads, and it sounds generic, but … I’ve tried all the other hole-in-the-wall Chinese places, and they don’t compare. l Where do you like to go

out for drinks?

Bodega, if I’m Downtown.

If I’m up in Dublin, I usually go Donerick’s or The Grumpy Troll.

short orders

Where Josh Cook heads when he’s in the mood for something specific

Breakfast: “Hellas in Powell. I go for the skillets.”

Italian: “Rigsby’s for the pork scallopini with zucchini cakes, sage and anchovies. It’s absolutely delicious.”

Wine: “I usually just get a malbec at Hubbard Grille.”

Salad: “Lemongrass salad from House of Japan.”

“General Tso’s is in a generic strip mall on Bethel. Other hole-in-the-wall Chinese places don’t compare.”

–Josh Cook

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sweet!

Buche de Noel The Angry Baker 891 Oak St., Olde Towne East 614-947-0976 theangrybakerote.com

Story by Shelley Mann Photo by Alysia burton

on a roll A traditional Christmas dessert can be savored throughout the holiday season thanks to Vicki Hink at The Angry Baker. Hink created two delightful versions of the Buche de Noel, a jelly-roll cake made to resemble a Yule log.

One combines pumpkin cake with a white chocolate-vanilla filling, topped with candied ginger and orange peel. The other is a chocolate genoise cake with a peppermint cream cheese filling, drizzled in ganache.

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