Mission Accomplishments

sHare and sHare alike

An agreement between the CMC and other mountaineering clubs leads to success on Mount Elbrus

By Steve Bonowski

in THe CaUCaSUS mOUnTainS of russia sits mount elbrus, at 18,510 feet one of the world’s Seven Summits. because of its location several kilometers north of the main ridge line of the Caucasus, cartographers consider the mountain to be in europe and, thus, the continent’s highest point.

The mountain, with its twin summits, has long held strong allure for members of the CmC. many members have climbed it on their own or with friends, among them noteworthy, world-class climbers like Gerry roach, Gary neptune, and Glenn Porzak. in 1994, the CmC made its first official climb of elbrus, sponsored by the club’s High altitude mountaineering Section (HamS). Since then, the club's climbs of elbrus have started to resemble Super bowl games in name, with the attempt in august 2010 being elbrus Vii.

This year’s trip was a special event for members of the CmC. in addition to 11 CmC climbers from Colorado, Wyoming, and montana, the team also included four members of the mountaineers from the greater Seattle area. The mountaineers’ climbers included Tab Wilkins, chairman of their board of directors for 2010. The four were the first non-CmC members to participate in a club climb as part of the reciprocal agreement signed this year by the executive directors of the CmC, mountaineers, appalachian mountain Club, mazamas, adirondack mountain Club, and the american alpine Club.

The reciprocal agreement allows for members of each club to go on trips of the other clubs, and to use various club facilities, all at member rates. The ubiquitous liability waivers must be signed, but generally no other paperwork is required.

“Our affinity with CmC folks was instant as we were welcomed and fit right in as if we were regular members,” said Wilkins. “but the experience reminded me of how great it is to be a mountaineer, as reflected in conversations with CmC members and in comparing our two clubs.” as the initial outing with members of other clubs, elbrus Vii was a resounding success. most CmC members on the climb had not done a big peak expedition before and weren't sure how to react at first—both to an elevation higher than any Colorado fourteener and with the distinguished guests. However, the fraternity of mountaineers is a solid one; in no time at all our mountaineer guests fit in well. most importantly, 12 of the 15 climbers on the trip, including all four mountaineers members, reached the summit and safely returned to camp without incident.

“Going with fellow mountaineering folks meant that we'd have the same goals in our trip overseas, lots of similar experiences to share, which meant, in theory, that we'd have a better time—with all turning out to be true!” echoed Wilkens. “Plus, in the true spirit of the climbing world we knew it would be reasonably priced and we liked the idea that it was led by someone who had done this before from the climber’s perspective.”

The St. Petersburg-based outfitter, CeT-neva mountaineering, again provided quality service, something they’ve done on two previous trips to elbrus and on a 2008 attempt of muztagh-ata in China.

We look forward to many more trips and shared experiences with our new mountaineers friends and future friends from all the clubs.

“The affinity was almost instantaneous—amazing in some ways and i expect there will be future connections made as we pass through Colorado, or as folks (like the HamS members) come to Washington State,” Wilkins said invitingly. △

▼ Trail & Timberline has now made it to the top of three of the world's Seven Summits. Here, Bob Dawson holds it atop Mount Elbrus.

The Youth Education Program’s 2010 Camping and Climbing Teen Getaway

By Heidi Potter, YEP Coordinator and Summer Program Director

THe SOUnDS OF raP mUSiC waft through the campsite, but the lyrics aren’t what you’d typically hear from a teenager’s mouth. instead, we hear: My compass, my directional homie, my lovely useful compass, check it out! These campers really crazy, gettin' lost every-daily, they shoulda looked at landmarks, they coulda used a compass, the sun and the cairns, directions they be sharin', and if you takin' carin' then you will get back home.

▲ Vedauwoo is known for its off-width cracks and mild weather, not to mention the great views from climbing sites.

This is how one group decided to share their knowledge of compasses at this year’s Youth education Program (YeP) Teen Camping and Climbing Getaway. The duo went on to explain how to use a compass and then let us practice our newfound skills as dusk descended on the campground. another group taught us how to hang a bear bag in a tree and properly dispose of human waste.

The Teen Camping and Climbing Getaway started one year ago with a trip to eleven-mile Canyon, Colorado. This year’s group established camp in Vedauwoo, Wyoming. The goals behind the getaway are to get youth away from their usual surroundings and into nature, build leadership awareness and skills, and do some serious climbing. after the presentations, we found our way to our campsite where a couple of students built a fire; then we made banana boats (banana, chocolate chips, and marshmallows melted into a gooey mess on the campfire). Then, it was typical teenager talk: funny stories, recollections of past experiences at climbing camp, what to climb tomorrow, and who brought the best non-essential item. most students who attend the getaway have been with YeP for years and have taken many of the summer courses offered. However, it is open to anyone who is interested. One student who joined us this year had never been camping or climbing before. another student had just moved from California and was looking to make new friends. Others were simply excited to get away from their parents and fill their summer with some fun. instructors teach the basics of camping and climbing. The kids can also learn the more advanced skills and concepts of the outdoors, if they wish. as they learn about something specific, they are asked to share their knowledge with the group. Sometimes that means a simple presentation, while other times we get some creative entertainment.

When asked to identify his most memorable moment from the getaway, andrew nilles, 15, answered, “...When i climbed the Potato Chip slab with Kip in Vedauwoo and we rappelled down. The rope got stuck and we thought we were going to have to cut it. We were all exhausted, and it made me so happy when we finally got it free.”

There’s always a little adventure waiting in the great outdoors. △

The Camping and Climbing Teen Getaway is one of many summer adventure courses being offered by YEP. For more info on the YEP school year and summer programs, visit www.cmc.org/yep.

For tHe kids

CMC Receives $25,000 to prevent Nature Deficit Disorder and Fight Obesity in Youth

By Brenda Porter, CMC Director of Education

in OCTOber, THe CmC’S Youth education Program (YeP) was awarded $25,000 by the Sprint Foundation. One of two nonprofit grant recipients in the Denver area, YeP was selected by a committee of Sprint employees because of its ability to provide outdoor activities with health benefits to 5,000 youth annually. rock climbing, hiking, snowshoeing, and team-building activities help prevent nature Deficit Disorder, fight childhood obesity, and provide leadership and social-competency skill development. Students learn through fun activities that foster understanding of academic subjects, self-awareness, and cooperation.

YeP also succeeded in Sprint’s competitive grant process because of its strong volunteer program. last year, 146 volunteers provided vital support and mentoring to youth.

Through direct grants and a robust matching-gifts program for employees and retirees, the Sprint Foundation creatively and thoughtfully delivers Sprint’s commitment to championing the communities where Sprint customers and employees live. △

By Lisa Cashel, CMC Land Partnerships Manager

THe COlOraDO mOUnTain Club’s stewardship program continues to grow across the state, both in size and scope. CmC groups have initiated projects with local, state, and federal land managers in their regions; the state office is working to identify and strengthen partnerships with these land managers, CmC groups, and partner organizations in our key conservation landscapes.

Volunteerism and collaboration are the glue that hold our stewardship program together and, for that, we thank our 2010 trail crew leaders, volunteers, and land management partners. Over 300 club members volunteered over 3,200 hours on more than 80 different workdays between may and October. These numbers represent conservative estimates, as not all groups have reported as of press time. Project partners included the U.S. Forest Service, the bureau of land management, national Park Service, Colorado State Parks, and other agencies. The inkind value of CmC members’ time amounted to over $68,000. in addition, new crew leaders received certification through the Outdoor Stewardship institute’s Crew leader Training program, after participating in two-day trainings offered in Golden, Grand Junction, and Colorado Springs.

CmC staff continue to work on access issues, mapping the lincoln ice Falls approach route before the snows fall, and pursuing conversations with land owners on access to mount bross.

The club installed a new kiosk with three beautiful map and interpretive panels at Kite lake to educate users about the mount bross closure and sustainable routes to the summits of mounts lincoln, Cameron, and Democrat. Due to the prioritization of american recovery and reinvestment act-funded projects on federal lands, many of the CmC’s state volunteer-based trail and restoration projects were put on hold until 2011. On engineer mountain and blanca Peak, these include social trail closure, signage, alpine restoration, and trail construction.

Our work on Wilson Peak will conclude in 2011 with a ribbon cutting ceremony, after completion of the process needed to open the rock of ages trail that leads to the summit of this popular fourteener.

The conservation department is actively recruiting trip leaders for a new conservation hike series, to be launched during the winter of 2010-11. We envision a growing constituency for our conservation program, inspired and educated through field trips to priority landscapes where we advocate for land protection, recreation access, and resource stewardship.

Finally, the CmC welcomes lisa Cashel as our new land Partnerships manager. lisa is the first conservation department staff member to focus on our emerging stewardship program. She will be directing the state program by coordinating projects across Colorado, and linking volunteers with key conservation landscapes within our campaigns to protect wild places and restore the quiet experience. She is also working to support our groups by marketing our stewardship volunteer opportunities, creating a resource toolbox, and developing a grant program specifically for the groups. △

For more information about the CMC's conservation program, stewardship, or to get involved, visit www.cmc.org/stewardship.

a sMasHing success

The 18th Annual Backcountry Bash

By Jay Heeter, CMC Campaigns Coordinator

THe 18TH annUal backcountry bash was a storming success, with over 300 skiers, snowboarders, and other revelers attending the event on november 13 at the american mountaineering Center in Golden to kick off the ski season.

Some members of the aspen, Gore range, and Friends of routt backcountry groups traveled from as far away as Carbondale, edwards, and Steamboat Springs. While munching wholesome grub and quaffing local brews, CmCers scored sweet deals at the silent and live auctions. Stellar bargains were had on items ranging from K2’s hottest skis to 10th mountain Hut Division trips, backcountry access beacons, and a Telluride ski and stay package. CmC member and outdoor gear representative Tom Gordon said, “a lot of companies are more than happy to donate gear to a solid program like CmC’s backcountry Snowsports initiative. The kind of education and outreach work bSi does is fundamental to backcountry winter sports, to ▲ Legendary extreme skier Chris Davenport was in attendance to present his new ski film, "Australis: An Antarctic Ski Odyssey."

◀ Another successful live auction helped raise over $28,000 for the Backcountry Snowsports Initiative.

By Jay Heeter, CMC Campaigns Coordinator

SePTember 29, 2010, WaS an historic day for Colorado’s wildlife and wilderness aficionados. On that Wednesday evening, with wilderness supporters watching from the balcony of the U.S. House of representatives, Congressman Jared Polis of Colorado’s Second Congressional District introduced a new wilderness bill: The eagle and Summit County Wilderness Preservation act.

The bill is the result of years of hard work by the Colorado mountain Club and our partner organizations, under the title “Hidden Gems.” Though Congressman Polis’ bill diverges from the original vision in some ways, it is certain that there would be no bill today without the hard work of CmC members. From mapping biologically sensitive areas to conducting on-the-ground surveys of the land, from negotiating with user groups and other stakeholders to holding public hearings, the journey has been long and rewarding. The new bill, if passed by the House and Senate and signed by the President, would protect 166,000 acres of public lands. Of that acreage, 90,000 would be protected as wilderness, with the balance representing other protection designations that guard the land from most resource extraction threats.

“after working extensively with stakeholders and examining the areas in question trail-by-trail, i am proud to introduce this legislation that has gained support and backing from the community,” Congressman Polis said in a press release. members of the CmC have advocated for the Hidden Gems bill for years, writing countless letters, making phone calls to decision makers and fellow members, and attending intense public meetings. “Some of those public meetings were not what i would call polite discourse,” said lee moosburger, a member of the Gore range Group. “We had to say to ourselves, ‘This is important. These are places our members have been visiting for decades. if people can’t be polite and talk about protecting them, well, we’ll just keep trying.’” in the end, all that public support won out over a few loud voices who would not give up their private interests for the public good. many of the special places that would be protected under the introduced legislation are frequented by the club’s members. in fact, some members attended hikes of the areas this past summer, helping to guide locals into the wilderness surrounding their communities. nickie Kelly of the boulder group helped to lead a hike in the proposed Ute Pass Wilderness area on august 29. The group of CmC members and other locals breathed fresh air, took in the vistas, ate wild blueberries, and snapped pictures of abundant mushrooms.

“These places are beautiful and so fragile,” said Kelly. “it’s a pleasure to be able to take people up here and see them get inspired to take action. Congressman Polis introduced this bill because he heard from his constituents. People getting involved is what it takes to make sure our most special lands are protected.”

The next step for Colorado mountain Club members interested in supporting this and other wilderness bills is to contact their senators and representatives. newly elected Congressman Scott Tipton in the Third Congressional District needs to hear from his constituents on the wilderness proposal in his district, dubbed “Hidden Gems 2.0.” neither Senator Udall nor Senator bennet has yet introduced legislation in the Senate to protect areas in Hidden Gems 2.0 or rep. Polis' bill. members can find contact information for their senators and representatives at www.congress.org. △

▲ McCullough Gulch, near the Tenmile proposed wilderness area.

◀ Director of Conservation Bryan Martin and Campaigns Coordinator Jay Heeter spent time in Washington, D.C., for Wilderness Week.

◀◀ The map of the Eagle and Summit County Wilderness Preservation Act, many years in the making and now introduced before Congress.

say nothing of the vital land protection work they also do.”

The backcountry Snowsports initiative is Colorado’s largest human-powered winter recreation advocacy program. CmC member and longtime backcountry advocate lee rimel commented, “CmC’s backcountry Snowsports initiative is a voice for those who love our quiet winter backcountry. Colorado’s backcountry needs advocates, and it finds advocates in CmC’s members.” many of those members have worked for years on winter backcountry management issues. leslie lovejoy, chair of CmC’s Friends of routt backcountry Group, is working with the Forest Service and other users of the routt national Forest to see that winter play areas are well-managed. “backcountry skiing is rapidly increasing in popularity, which is great” said lovejoy, “but unfortunately many of our favorite backcountry locations are threatened by rampant, unregulated motorized vehicle use. We need to make sure backcountry skiers and snowshoers understand the threats and organize themselves to meet them.”

Since a controversial rule change made in 2005, snowmobiles have been exempted from the rules that govern the use of summer offhighway vehicles. now, the north routt region, considered the backyard for the Friends of routt backcountry group, is faced with a new project that would put snowmobile trails and parking lots in the heart of traditionally non-motorized terrain. The CmC’s conservation department supports substantial changes to that project and advocates that the Forest Service implement comprehensive travel management planning for winter activities. across Colorado in situations like this, bSi is working to create good policy and strong enforcement for our public lands in the winter months.

One ardent supporter of bSi’s work is extreme skier Chris Davenport. near the conclusion of the evening, enthusiastic party goers sat down for a showing of Davenport’s new film, “australis: an antarctic Ski Odyssey.” Davenport stars in and directed the movie. “i’m always happy to support CmC and bSi,” said Davenport. “it’s a great program, doing important work. The world’s backcountry faces so many threats, it always inspires me to see people come together to support it.” CmC members heartily supported the Colorado’s backcountry at the bash, raising more than $28,000 for bSi. Just as importantly, a good time was had by all. △

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By Gerald Caplan

THe ellinGWOOD mountaineering achievement award is given to those members who best reflect the CmC’s climbing ethics, demonstrate and teach strong climbing skills, and who push the boundaries of climbing accomplishments in Colorado and around the world.

This year’s recipient is boulder group member Dale Johnson.

The 1950s and 1960s were the golden age of rock climbing in Colorado and Dale Johnson pioneered seven first ascents during those decades, among them the Second buttress of the north Face of Hallets, the South Face of the matron, and the red Garden Wall in eldorado Canyon.

Dale was the second to climb Shiprock in the navajo nation, and narrowly missed the first opportunity to climb the Diamond on longs Peak when two California climbers got the first permit from the national Park Service.

His climbing biography includes climbs in new Zealand, east africa, Peru, Canada, nepal, Japan, Switzerland, and italy.

Dale joined the CmC while a student at the University of Colorado. There, he may have gained his most enduring fame by being the first to paint a “C” on the Third Flatiron. For fun, he also climbed the Third Flatiron in roller skates.

Dale has led CmC trips to Peru, Kenya, new Zealand, Canada, and the european alps. a successful businessman, Dale invented Frostline Kits, make-it-yourself gear popular in the 1960s and 1970s. He was also an adventurous pilot and scuba diver. He has volunteered to pilot his plane for lightHawk, surveying territory for environmental groups.

The CmC is proud to honor the accomplishments of one of its exemplary members. △

Walt BorneMan receiVes Blaurock aWard

By Gerald Caplan

THe blaUrOCK aWarD recognizes CmC members who have invested substantial efforts to help the CmC, and whose leadership results in significant improvements to the club. This year’s recipient of the award is Walter r. borneman.

Walt, a member of the longs Peak Group, joined the CmC in 1975. in 2003, he was elected to the board of Directors of the Colorado mountain Club Foundation (CmCF); in 2006 he was named chair of the CmCF fundraising committee. The committee had as its goal raising $400,000, part of the cost to build and furnish the bradford Washburn american mountaineering museum in Golden. in 2008, Walt became president of the CmCF and continued in his tireless efforts to raise money for the museum. He became a spokesman for the campaign, speaking at events throughout the state, meeting privately with donors, and encouraging everyone in the effort. The CmCF, under Walt’s tenure, raised $650,000 for the museum. The museum is now a showpiece of mountaineering history and the first of its kind in the nation. because of his outstanding leadership, he was awarded the Presidential leadership award from CmC president Janice Heidel.

Walt has been active in other areas as well. Walt’s first book, A Climbing Guide to the Colorado Fourteeners, written with lyndon lampert, came out in 1978 and thousands of climbers have carried it in their packs to the top of fourteeners. Since then Walt has written nine other books, many of them histories published by major houses such as HarperCollins, random House, and little brown. Walt was the founding chairman of the Colorado Fourteeners initiative, a public/private effort to preserve Colorado’s peaks over fourteen thousand feet, and has been on the board of Directors of the american Discovery Trail Society and Historic Georgetown. Walt is president of the berry Foundation, a foundation that supports postdoctoral students at Stanford University School of medicine.

Walt borneman is an outstanding club member and leader, and is a worthy recipient of the Carl blaurock award. △