BERTHOUD PASS

Old winter haunts of the CMC: Berthoud Pass

By Woody Smith

Berthoud rope tow, February 27, 1937. Colorado Mountain Club Archives

Beginning in 1916 the Colorado Mountain Club made a tradition of holding an annual winter outing, usually at the Fern Lake Lodge in Rocky Mountain National Park. Activities included the “new” sports of cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ski jumping, and in limited form, downhill or alpine skiing.

Some members longed for more, and made pilgrimages to the Alps and other European locales. ey returned with stories of unending ski runs, thousands of feet long, running from summit to valley.

In 1926 John L.J. “Jerry” Hart wrote of his European trip the previous Christmas with the Oxford Ski Club: [One] Climb of a thousand feet leads to the Parsenn-Furka Pass [Switzerland], from which the famous run drops ve thousand feet in seven miles to Kublis on the railway. On this run, at times one’s skis seem to be resting on air, the sensation being one of ying . . . [In Norway], Finse is unequaled for ease and speed. . . . One of the best runs is on the Hardanger Jokull, a hill covered with a circular glacier six miles in diameter and crevassed in only a few places.

Coming down this glacier, there is nothing but the resistance of air to restrict one’s speed. We were certain that we hit fty miles an hour. (T&T, 8/1926)

Arriving home, Club members began looking for open, yet snowy mountainsides to create their own “endless” ski runs. As luck would have it, a major construction project—years in the making—would help the CMC, and the City of Denver, nd Colorado’s next winter playground.

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In the 1860s, when railroad routes over the Continental Divide were being scouted, Central City mayor Andrews N. Rogers, a mining engineer by trade, suggested a tunnel under the divide at James Peak. (Colorado’s Other Mountains, Walter R. Borneman, 15–16). During the 1880s railroad magnate David Mo at, who was searching for a more direct link to the Western Slope, liked the idea enough to fund surveys. But Mo at could never raise enough capital for construction. He passed in 1911, still trying to make the tunnel a reality. But the dream lived on, and in 1922 nally found support in the Colorado Legislature. e nal plan called for two 6-mile-long tunnels, one for water, the other for trains. e east bore started below Rollins Pass, at the headwaters of South Boulder Creek, near 9,200 feet. e west bore began at 9,240 feet, near the headwaters of the Fraser River—a gentle slope to the east of 6 1/2 feet per mile.

Construction began in 1923 and concluded in 1928. e cost was $18 million, three times the original estimate. Twentyeight workers were killed during the project. e rst freight train passed through on February 14, 1928. But Club members were lucky enough to get a preview just 10 days before the tunnel opened:

One of the most interesting ski trips of the season was enjoyed by members the week-end of February 4 when as guests of the Mo at Tunnel Commission they visited the tunnel country. Driving to the East Portal it seemed the trip would prove a failure from the viewpoint of skiers but after making the ride through the

Pioneer Bore to the West Portal they were greeted with enough snow to bury them. It was such a welcome sight with the moon-glow on the snow that several hours were spent enjoying the slopes in the camp. Put up in bunk houses, they were served a regular Tunnel breakfast after which even our best found di culty in navigating. Ascent to Timberline was made up the old logging trail. After lunch a speedy drop into camp and return through the Pioneer Bore to cars at the East Portal was made in record time (Nancy Crisp “Denver Doings,” T&T,

March 1928).

With regular rail service, the West Portal area gained quick popularity. By 1930 the CMC was making regular visits. Wrote Malcolm Collier:

First Creek Ski Cabin, February 22, 1935. Colorado Mountain Club Archives

During the winter months the Denver

Group have enjoyed many excellent ski trips. e opening of the Mo at Tunnel has made available the West Portal area for skiing. e conditions at West Portal are almost ideal and there is always suf cient snow to assure a successful ski trip. e beautiful country around West Portal a ords strenuous trips for the experienced and gives those [who] desire less skiing an opportunity to enjoy the lovely scenery of this region. ere has been greater interest shown during the winter in skiing than for some time and the attendance has been excellent. e railroad o cials have co-operated with the club helping to make the trips a success (T&T, April 1930).

Another factor in the area’s popularity was the improvement of the road over Berthoud Pass. In 1920, as a push to build new roads swept the nation, the route over Berthoud Pass was incorporated into a planned coast to coast highway that stretched from New York City to San Francisco. First called the Midland Trail Auto Road, then the Victory Highway, and by the late 1930s, US 40, the road over Berthoud Pass became an important link between east and west. In 1930 the route was widened and paved. It opened for year-round tra c in 1931.

But local skiers had a di erent advantage in mind: You could drive to the top of the pass and ski down. Soon Berthoud Pass was swarming with weekend skiers. Races, slalom, and jumping events were organized and drew hundreds of spectators. e CMC fanned the ames of the new fad by showing ski movies at least twice a month during ski season. e Club even shot their own movies “. . . showing the beautiful country surrounding West Portal and many amusing incidents . . . where the participants were caught unawares.” (Malcolm Collier, T&T, April 1930).

But all this activity did not escape the notice of Denver’s parks manager, George Cranmer. Cranmer was a CMC member and an avid sportsman, both summer and winter. Appointed by Denver mayor Benjamin Stapleton in 1935, Cranmer saw the future. He revealed his vision in the Denver Post on March 28, 1937:

Colorado has millions of dollars ready for taking, but we sit back and don’t touch it. . . . I refer to the magni cent scenery, the snow, the crystal clear streams, the majestic mountain peaks, the wildlife, the sunshine. Directly west of Denver . . . we have absolutely everything essential to an ideal winter playground . . . a winter playground that would be the world’s best.

Concentrating on summer tourist business, we have completely overlooked the possibilities o ered by our mountains during the winter. We shouldn’t overlook the fact that people like to play in the winter as well as the summer. We advertise our attractions and persuade people to come to Colorado in the summer. When winter comes we just fold up until the next summer.

But to get them out here, we must have something to o er in the way of accommodations and some kind of winter program. We can’t expect them to come out and sit on the side of a mountain just to view the scenery.

If we will get busy there is absolutely not one single reason why this area . . . should not become the center of the world’s leading winter playground.

Cranmer’s vision was validated. Today, Colorado’s ski industry is worth billions. △

Berthoud Pass/Winter Park Timeline

Early 1920s: e Berthoud Pass Inn is built to serve motorists on the new transcontinental road. e inn is struck by lightning in 1939 and later torn down. 1923–1928: Construction of the twin Pioneer and Mo at tunnels. 1929: CMC member Graeme McGowen buys an unused sta building left over from tunnel construction and converts it into a ski clubhouse. September 1933: T&T announces a joint Forest Service/Civilian Conservation Corps project to build “several miles of trail, with one cabin in the region above West Portal and below Berthoud Pass [First Creek].” e trail “will be built to connect the present trail on Mary Jane Creek with the wonderful area above timberline.” December 1933: T&T outlines the CMC’s goal and plans in regard to skiing. ese include ski trail standards, lessons, trip plans that cater to di erent levels of skiers, a planned Canadian trip, ski cabins, and a “snow train.” January 5, 1936: e CMC Ski-Bus makes its initial run to Berthoud Pass. Round-trip fares from Denver are $1.75. Bus shuttle from Fraser River switchback [north side] to the pass, .15¢ for CMC members, .25¢ for non-members. e shuttle trip back to the top is made three times per day. 1936: Monarch Mountain and Loveland Ski Area open with single rope tows. Monarch’s tow is powered by a Chevy truck engine. November 1936: e Colorado Winter Sports Council is formed. Members are cities and clubs, including the CMC, organized to promote winter activities in the state. February 1937: T&T publishes a map of West Portal ski trails. February 7, 1937: Rope tow on Berthoud Pass begins operation. e motor is a V8 donated by Denver Ford dealers. e same day two German skiers disappear under a nearby avalanche. eir bodies are found in the spring. August 21, 1938: US Forest Service grants Denver permission to take over 6,400 acres of land on the west side of Berthoud Pass for use as “a winter sports paradise.” December 18, 1938: Plans are unveiled for two new rope tows and ski trails that are the forerunner to Winter Park/Mary Jane. Fall 1939: e city of Denver, with private contributions, builds a new ski tow on Berthoud Pass. e cost is $44,000. December 1, 1939: West Portal renamed Winter Park. January 13, 1940: Winter Park opens a new rope tow with an uphill capacity of 600 skiers per hour and new wider ski trails as part of $100,000 upgrade. January 29, 1940: Winter Park o cially dedicated with “slalom and jumping events.” Governor Ralph L. Carr, Mayor Stapleton, and parks manager Cranmer each speak at the dedication. 1940: e Ski Train begins 69 years of seasonal service [December–March] on the Front Range. December 1940: e CMC buys a cabin in Winter Park.