Trail & Timberline #1019 (Summer 2013)

101 FUN FACTS ABOUT THE CMC 23 • MOUNT RAINIER’S LIBERTY RIDGE 26 • A LEGACY OF VOLUNTEERISM: BEAVER BROOK TRAIL 39

TRAIL &

TIMBERLINE

The Colorado Mountain Club • Summer 2013 • Issue 1019 • www.cmc.org

GivinG Back

cMc

to the

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Letter from the CEO Making an Impact by Volunteering with the CMC

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h, summer. I don’t know about you, but summer is now my favorite season. To me, it represents a more carefree lifestyle. There is no chill in the air to create tension in my shoulders, and at the end of my day, I know a BBQ and my backyard await me. It seems as if the most stress we have to deal with during the summer is trying to decide which activities we want to do—not just the plethora of outdoor recreational activities, but the endless number of volunteer opportunities. Kids are out of school and have any number of camps available to them, trails and mountain landscapes are generally in need of some TLC after the wear and tear of last year’s hiking season, and visitors come to Colorado throughout the summer to conquer our mountain terrain.

You can volunteer with the CMC in any of the ways mentioned above.

When people ask me what I love best about the CMC, I mention it’s the numerous ways we carry out our mission through a variety of activities. And much of this is done through volunteerism. Our members volunteer in ways you may never have

considered. For example, organizing our 100 years of archives, belaying kids while they are rock climbing, helping to take kids on weeklong backpacking trips, educating CMC members who want to learn a new outdoor skill such as Wilderness Trekking, or even serving at a leadership level on the State Board.

How can you volunteer with the CMC? Do you love leading people to your favorite places in Colorado? How about leading people to your favorite places around the globe? You can train to become a leader for In-State trips, or Adventure Travel trips and travel with CMCers throughout the world.

The possibilities are endless to fulfill your desire to give back.

One simple way I ask that you volunteer with the CMC is as a “brand ambassador.”

That is a fancy way of saying, “spread the word about the CMC.” Tell everyone you know—and don’t know—about all the great work the CMC does. I’ll share the pitch I generally use to convince people to join the CMC: “If you love and respect our mountains, you must be a member of the CMC.”

What I mean by this is that the CMC is the largest, oldest, and most respected force in protecting Colorado’s landscapes and educating people of all generations on responsible outdoor recreation. If those beliefs are important to you, support the organization that does the most work in those areas.

I remind people that they don’t have to participate in everything the CMC offers, just find what is most valuable to you even if it’s simply renewing your membership every year with a smile and pride.

So what do you say? Is this the summer to start volunteering with the CMC? Join in the ranks of over a thousand volunteers who help keep our great organization going. If you aren’t sure where to start or have more questions about how you can help, please contact me. Let me know your thoughts and I’ll guide you in the right direction. The one thing I will guarantee is that the mountains will be forever grateful.

Enjoy the summer sun,

Katie Blackett Chief Executive Officer

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23 CMC 101

35 EVEREST 50 YEARS LATER

Commemorating 101 years as a volunteer-based organization

By Amanda Larrinaga

Looking back at the 1963 American expedition

By Phil Powers

26 FIVE DAYS ON A THREE-DAY CLIMB

37 LION GULCH TRAIL

A difficult late May trek up Mount Rainier’s Liberty Ridge

By Jim Rickard

A preview of The Best Estes Park Hikes

By John Gascoyne

32 A TRUE MOUNTAINEER

39 BEAVER BROOK TRAIL

Celebrating Ken Nolan and his climbing exploits

By Kent Groninger

The volunteer effort put forth in the construction of an old favorite

By Woody Smith

Summer 2013 Trail & Timberline • Issue 1019 • www.cmc.org

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Departments 01 Letter from the CEO 06 On the Outside 08 Mission Accomplishments

Learn the latest from the conservation, development, membership, and youth education departments, as well as news on the Eckart Roder Education Fund.

12 Around Colorado

What’s happening in your group?

14 The Clinic

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How to become an outdoor leader

By Melanie Joyce

16 Pathfinder

Navigating snowy mountain passes during summer

By Mike Zawaski

20 Safety First

How we learned that the Ten Essentials really are essential

41 End of the Trail

Remembering those who have passed.

42 CMC Adventure Travel

Want to get away? Wander the world with your friends at the CMC on these classic trips.

ON THE COVER Senior Instructor Beth Hungerford helps Wilderness Trekking School student Rachael Graber during a WTS field day.

By John Kieffer, OutsideImagery.com

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TRAIL & TIMBERLINE

The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918.

EDITOR Christian Green editor@cmc.org

DESIGNER Jessica D'Amato ADVERTISING SALES Robin Commons

advertising@cmc.org

THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB 710 10th Street, Suite 200 Golden, Colorado 80401 303-279-3080 The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.

www.cmc.org The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to ▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado; ▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation; ▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas; ▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and ▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region. © 2013 COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB

All Rights Reserved

Trail & Timberline (ISSN 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado Mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401.

Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401. Advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado Mountain Club.

Please recycle this magazine.

Printed on 10% post-consumer waste recycled paper.

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For Members

member benefits

→ Join us on over 3,000 annual trips, hikes, and activities in the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization. → Expand your knowledge and learn new skills with our schools, seminars, and events. → Support our award-winning Youth Education Program for mountain leadership. → Protect Colorado’s wild lands and backcountry recreation experiences. → Enjoy exclusive discounts to the American Mountaineering Museum. → Travel the world with your friends through CMC Adventure Travel. → Receive a 20% discount on all CMC Press purchases and start your next adventure today. → It pays to be a member. Enjoy discounts of up to 30% from retailers and corporate partners. See www.cmc.org/benefits for details. → Receive the Shared Member Rates of other regional mountaineering clubs and a host of their perks and benefits, including lodging.

Visit cmc.org/Alpine6 for details.

opportunities to get more involved Charitable Donations

Join our select donors who give back to the club every month by using electronic funds transfer (EFT). It is easy and convenient, you can discontinue anytime, and you’ll provide support for critical programs. Sign up at www.cmc.org/support.

By naming the Colorado Mountain Club in your will, you will be able to count yourself among the proud members of the 21st Century Circle. Read more at www.cmc.org/legacy. Please consult your financial advisor about gift language.

By donating $1,000 or more to the Annual Campaign, you'll enjoy the exclusive benefits of the Summit Society, including hikes to places that the CMC's conservation department is working to protect, an annual appreciation event, and a complimentary copy of a new CMC Press book.

If you have any questions about donations, please contact Sarah Gorecki, Development Director, at 303.996.2752 or sarahgorecki@cmc.org.

Volunteer Efforts

If you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.

Contact Us

Our Membership Services team can answer general questions every weekday at 303.279.3080, or by email at cmcoffice@cmc.org.

SCFD

The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District and its citizens for their continuing support. www.scfd.org

The Colorado Mountain Club is a proud member of Community Shares of Colorado.

It PAYS to be a member!

SCFD

SCFD

SCFD

▶ 40% off admission at the American Mountaineering Museum ▶ 20% off titles from The Mountaineers Books ▶ 10% at Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder ▶ 10% at Bent Gate Mountaineering, Golden ▶ 10% at Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver ▶ 10% at Mountain Chalet, Colorado Springs

Not a member?

▶ 10% at The Trailhead, Buena Vista

Visit www.cmc.org/join ▶ 10% at Rock'n and Jam'n, Thornton Trail & Timberline

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On the Outside WTS students out in the field.

Photos by Frank Burzynski 6

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Mission Accomplishments Year in Review—CMC Membership Highlights

By Amanda Larrinaga, Marketing and Membership Director

FOR OVER 100 YEARS, the Colorado Mountain Club has inspired the state and its communities to fall in love with their mountainous surroundings; deepening their relationship with the land year after year through conservation, education, advocacy, and outdoor recreation. Since its inception, the CMC has witnessed a growth in the multitudes of dedicated members and volunteers, wanting to commit themselves to this relationship with the land. This past year marked the centennial of CMC’s cause, bringing with it an exciting wave of member and new member involvement.

A membership with the CMC not only offers Colorado residents the opportunity to take classes, join conservation groups, and take trips to exotic destinations, but it also gives members the freedom to

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spearhead these activities. In 2012, the CMC reached 6,573 in new and longtime members, 800 of which went on to become trip leaders for over 17,334 outdoor enthusiasts, both within and outside CMC’s membership. More than 7,000 hours of volunteerism were logged and 2,186 adults were educated in a variety of classes and seminars.

This last year the CMC also saw an increase in youth involvement, stepping up and getting excited about their state. An awe-inspiring 7,447 students were educated through CMC’s youth education program.

This new measure of success has prompted the club to create an entirely new program dedicated specifically to young adults between the ages of 15 and 25, which will be launched this summer.

Aside from the hundreds of classes and thousands of trips that were attended this past year, the CMC also hosted several successful film events and open houses. One such event was this year’s annual Mountain Fest open house. Moved to a Friday night, the event featured live music, drinks, activities, and food trucks, and drew the largest attendance from members and the community to-date.

It is because of active and involved members that 100 years later, we’re still one of the premier outdoor recreation organizations in the country. △ In 2012, 7,447 students were educated through CMC’s youth education program.

Pictured here is Ryan Johns, YEP Manager/ Summer Program Director, during a YEP classroom activity. Photo by Frank Burzynski. ▼

Colorado School of Mines Students Volunteer with YEP

By Ryan Johns, Youth Education Program Manager/Summer Program Director

ONE OF THE HARDEST PARTS of running a nonprofit education program is finding qualified and committed volunteers to help with your classes. Finding the right kind of volunteers can go a long way in determining the success or failure of a program. Fortunately, we have found one such group of volunteers.

If you attended the rock climbing class with Colorado School of Mines (CSM) at some point during the last three years, one of your class requirements was to volunteer your time belaying with our Youth Education Program (YEP). CSM Director of Outdoor Recreation Rob Thompson, who teaches the class, feels that working with YEP helps his students gain experience in belaying and giving back to the community.

When this relationship started, it was on a trial basis and both sides were hoping for the best. Three years later, both CSM and YEP are happy with the arrangement.

In a given season YEP might see at least 30 volunteer belayers from the rock climbing class at CSM. That means that over a single year we may have 60 volunteers come

to us from CSM. While their requirement is to volunteer only once, many of the students have found that working with YEP is rewarding and fun.

They tell me that they keep coming back because of our wonderful students.

CSM students report fine-tuning their skills and gaining an appreciation for risk management after working with our groups.

This is a relationship that we hope continues for years to come.

Last year when CSM added a second rock climbing class, those students jumped right on board too.

If you or your organization would like to volunteer with YEP at our climbing wall

▲ Stevie Newbill is just one of many volunteer belayers from Colorado School of Mines. Photo by Ryan Johns.

or for any of our curriculum-based science classes, please contact Ryan Johns at ryanjohns@cmc.org.△

Summer Is a Great Time to Volunteer with Our Conservation Department

By Scott Braden, Conservation Director

CMC CONSERVATION is gearing up for the summer season and there are several ways members can get involved. One, our state stewardship program offers a diverse selection of opportunities for volunteer service. CMC members have a great tradition of service and stewardship—giving back to the lands that sustain our club’s recreation. Check out the event schedule or visit http://www.cmc.org/stewardship to sign up for a project today!

We are also working to launch a campaign to protect the remaining wild lands of the Rampart Range, just an hour southwest of Denver. A joint venture of the Denver and Pikes Peak conservation committees, protection for and service in this 30,000acre roadless area has been a priority for years. Now we are stepping up efforts to engage stakeholders and build a movement for permanent protection of this island of recreation and habitat right on the Front Range.

CMC Conservation is partnering with the Western Slope Group on the protection of popular hiking areas, as the local Bureau of Land Management revises its land-use plan for the region. These processes all need work from volunteers, so your involvement is critical. Please visit the CMC conservation web page—http://www.cmc.org/Conservation—or contact your group’s conservation chair to find out how you can get involved.△

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Investing in a Stronger Future for the Club

By Sarah Gorecki, Development Director

MANY OF OUR CMC MEMBERS wear the proud badge of being a 21st Century Circle member. I’m often asked, “What is the 21st Century Circle?” It’s a group of CMC members—over 80 members strong—who want to see the club prosper well beyond their lifetimes.

The club has been around for over 100 years, and no one knows what technological advances and changes the next 100 years will bring. But one thing is for certain—the Colorado Mountain Club will still be working hard to enable its members to enjoy Colorado’s mountains, conserve its backcountry, and educate the next generation of outdoor enthusiasts.

Have you ever considered leaving a legacy gift to the CMC and investing in our club’s future? There are many options to choose from. Your gift can be directed toward one of the CMC’s great programs, or it can be saved for the future in the CMC’s permanent endowment.

One of the simplest ways to leave a legacy is to remember the CMC or the CMC Foundation with a bequest in your will. With an unrestricted bequest, your gift will give flexibility to the CMC or the CMC Foundation to meet ever-changing needs and take advantage of opportunities as they arise. Or, restrict your gift to one of the CMC’s wonderful programs, and you can rest assured that your gift will support

that program far into the future.

You can name the CMC or the CMC Foundation as the beneficiary of one of your qualified retirement plans, such as an IRA, 401(k) plan, or 403(b) plan. Contact your retirement plan administrator to complete a beneficiary form; the process is fast and easy. You can designate a specific amount or a percentage of your retirement plan to the CMC or the CMC Foundation.

You can also name the CMC or the CMC Foundation as the beneficiary of a current permanent life insurance policy.

Your estate avoids paying tax on the value of the policy and receives a charitable deduction for the gift. If you donate your paid-up life insurance policy, you will receive a charitable income tax deduction, generally equal to the cash surrender value. If you name the CMC or the CMC Foundation as the owner and beneficiary of a new policy, you will receive a tax deduction for continuing premium payments.

If you have owned stocks or bonds for more than one year and the fair market value has increased since you purchased them, or you own land or property that has increased in value since you purchased it, you can avoid capital gains tax by transferring the asset directly to the CMC or the CMC Foundation. You will be able to deduct the full fair market value of the asset at the time of the gift.

Please consult with your professional financial advisor about what type of planned gift is right for you.

If you have already included the CMC or the CMC Foundation in your will or estate plan, please let us know so we can welcome you to the 21st Century Circle. A gift does not have to be large to make a difference. Contact me at 303-996-2752 for more information, or learn more at http:// www.cmc.org/Donate.

Your legacy gift will help the Colorado Mountain Club thrive for another 100 years! △

Another way that you can give back to the CMC is through our corporate giving program. CMC members have connections with large corporations, small businesses, and everything in between. We look to our members to help us engage with our community and the businesses within that community, and to help us make connections with companies that might be interested in offering CMC memberships as a part of their employee benefits or that might want to take advantage of on-site or off-site outdoor educational opportunities for their employees or customers. We love to work with companies that encourage and support employee volunteerism and community engagement. The CMC also works with companies that are willing to donate products and services.

The CMC builds custom sponsorship packages to meet the needs of our corporate partners and caters to companies of all sizes and in all industries. Please contact Kristin D’Epagnier, Development & Marketing Coordinator, at 303-996-2769, or visit http:// cmc.org/Donate/CorporateGiving for more information about our Corporate Giving opportunities.

—Kristin D’Epagnier

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The Eckart Roder Education Fund Supports Volunteerism and Honors a Great CMC Volunteer

By Dick Falb and John Lacher

tions Director.

After his untimely death in January 2003, the Eckart Roder Education Fund was started by his sons, Jeff and Dan, to honor and remember their father, the man we climbed with and loved. Eckart exemplified the values of mountain safety, responsibility, and courtesy. Anyone who climbed with him, good friend or new acquaintance, was immediately impressed with his caring attitude for every individual on the hike, and the welfare of the entire group. It isn’t simply by chance that so many people remember their first hike with Eckart; he always stood out as a model climber and good companion. Ar▲ A longtime member of the Denver Group, Eckart Roder personified the riving on a summit spirit of the CMC. after a long slog, with hardly a hair out of place, he would immediately begin askECKART RODER WAS A longtime, ing everyone, “How are you doing?

Are tireless volunteer for the Colorado Mounyou OK? Is everything all right?” always tain Club. His many years of contributions have been documented in appropriate ar- thinking first of others. Upon hearing of ticles in the Mile High Mountaineer, the his tragic death, one friend wrote, “He was Denver Group’s newsletter, and T&T. He a ‘gentleman climber,’ because he was just volunteered to lead A–D Level Hikes, was that: gracious, witty, humble, charming, poan instructor in the Denver Group Cross lite.” Another described him as “. . . adding Country Ski School, and led advanced ski class to any occasion he attends.” The fund trips. In 1999, when the fledgling Youth seeks primarily to continue this tradition of Education Program sent out a call for vol- service by providing support for the educaunteers to help teach Mountain Safety to tion programs of the Denver Group of the school children, Roder was among the first CMC. Eckart’s first priority in service to the to step forward. “I remember Eckart’s willclub was direct contact with the members. ingness to help out even when he was unBecause of his mountaineering experience sure about teaching youth. His great smile, and extraordinary people skills, he was ofenthusiasm, and expertise held the attenten recruited to run for club offices and section of some precocious sixth graders durtion chairs.

He usually declined, explaining ing a demonstration of the Ten Essentials,” that his first love and greatest satisfaction reminisced Brenda Porter, CMC’s Opera-

was being on the trail and on the summits, sharing with friends and teaching newcomers. Our continuing support of the Eckart Roder Education Fund is the best way to continue his legacy of hands-on education and service.

Since 2004, the fund has awarded grants totaling over $8,000 to help the Denver, Boulder, Pikes Peak, Fort Collins, and El Pueblo groups with worthwhile education projects. These have included advanced training for leaders in climbing and skiing, risk management, team building, training in avalanche awareness and preparedness, and, one dear to our hearts: buying monoculars to enhance wildflower viewing for wheelchair participants. The Youth Education Fund has also received support for indoor climbing classes. Applications are entertained for any activity which emphasizes safety, responsibility, and courtesy.

Each year the fund has held a memorial/fund-raising pot luck dinner, with the modest registration fee going to the fund.

Current year recipients of fund grants report on their use of the money, and there is usually a short program/slide show. As a result, the fund has continued to grow, and seems poised to become a significant endowment that will be a great asset in the twenty-first century. This year’s Eckart Roder Education Fund dinner, held on March 28, was a huge success. Blake Clark showed slides and talked about the Grand Canyon backpack and raft trips.

Accumulation of great shared memories and donations will help sustain and build the fund for ongoing projects. Eckart Roder embodied the ideal CMC member; he encouraged deep enjoyment of the mountains through promoting safety and courtesy. We like to think that Eckart would be pleased. We hope you will keep an eye out for the event next year and join us in supporting the fund. It is usually held in late spring.△ 2014 proposal forms are available from brendaporter@cmc.org.

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Around Colorado

Our groups across the State DENVER Who Are We? The CMC leads over 3,000 trips a year into the mountains, and you will find everything about the Denver Group at www.hikingdenver.net.

With over 3,200 members we offer something for everyone 18+ who love the outdoors. Want to meet folks in your age range, check out the Trailblazers (21-40) and the very popular Over the Hill Gang (50+). For more information, the eversion of our monthly newsletter, the Mile High Mountaineer, is available at www.hikingdenver.net Upcoming Schools and Programs (All held at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden): Basic Rock Climbing Seminar—Session B. Starts June 3. For more details go to http://www. hikingdenver.net/schools/basicrockclimbingschool Member Open Climbs. June 12, 19, 25; July 9, 20, 23; August 6, 13, 21, 27. For more details go to http://www.cmc.org/Calendar/Trips.aspx CPR. June 18; taught by a Red Cross-certified instructor. For more details go to http://www.hikingdenver.net/schools/cpr-2 Fly Fishing Monthly Programs. June 20, July 18, and August 22. For more details go to http:// cmc.org/About/CMCGroups/Denver/FlyFishing. aspx Rock Seconding School. Starts June 24. For more details go to http://www.hikingdenver.net/ schools/rockseconding Photography Section Programs. July 10 and August 14. For details go to http://www.hikingdenver.net/specialinterests/photography-section Traditional Lead Climbing School. Starts July 24. Contact Bill at cmcpoodle@gmail.com Backpacking School. Starts August 7. For more details go to http://www.hikingdenver.net/ schools/bkps Get Involved Get involved with hiking, including wildflower and photography hikes; fly fishing, rock climbing; learn new skills at our schools; or work on a conservation project. All of our trips and schools are led by member volunteers.

Learn More Send an e-mail to office@cmc.org for specific questions. Or attend one of our New and Prospective Member Orientations on July 20 or August 26. For more details go to http://www. cmc.org/Calendar/Events.aspx

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BOULDER Who Are We? The Boulder Group came into existence in 1920, eight years after the Colorado Mountain Club was founded. Today, the group’s 1,100-plus members enjoy a variety of climbing, hiking, backpacking, running, and skiing activities. Boulder Group outings range from casual after-work hikes to leisurely flower photography walks to high mountain meadows. With our proximity to the Flatirons and Eldorado Canyon, it’s no surprise that rock climbing is a favorite activity.

Details about Boulder Group Outings may be found here: http://www.cmcboulder.org/trips/ Get Educated One of the hallmarks of the Boulder Group is the robust set of classes and clinics it offers. During the summer, the Boulder Group offers Rock Leading School (RLS), Backpacking School, a Top Roping Clinic, and a Sport Leading Clinic. Spots in these courses fill fast, so if the summer courses are already full, now is a good time to begin planning for the fall courses, because fall registration opens on August 6, and some fall courses begin as early as mid-August and early September. Fall offerings will include Hiking and Survival Essentials, Hiking Navigation, Hiking Route and Trip Planning, Basic Rock School (BRS), and GPS Navigation. For details about these courses, go online to: http://www.cmcboulder.org/bms/index.html Get Involved There are lots of ways to become involved in the Boulder Group, by participating in outings, taking courses, volunteering, working on conservation projects, and leading trips. New trip leaders and co-leaders are always welcome; interested persons should contact the Outings Chair and/ or view the information here: www.cmcboulder. org/trips/#TripCoLeaders.

A great way for new and prospective CMC members to learn more about the Boulder Group and its many classes, trips, and activities is to attend one of the Open Houses that take place 7:00–8:30 pm on the 3rd Wednesday of every odd-numbered month. The next Open Houses are on July 17 and September 18. Experienced members will be on hand to share their enthusiasm and knowledge about hiking, camping, peak bagging, rock climbing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and more. The Open Houses take place at the Boulder Group club room, in the Table Mesa Shopping Center, on the southwest corner of Broadway and Table Mesa Road, between Neptune Mountaineering and H&R Block. We hope to see you and a friend there!

PIKES PEAK Who Are We? The Pikes Peak Group is based out of Colorado Springs. We are a diverse group of approximately 600 members with a variety of activities and challenge levels that include: hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, biking, ice climbing, skiing, snow climbing, conservation activities, and snowshoeing.

In addition, we offer courses in basic mountaineering, which includes wilderness fundamentals, land navigation, rock climbing, alpine snow mountaineering, ice climbing, and backpacking; high altitude mountaineering, which includes glacier travel; backcountry skiing; anchor building; lead climbing (rock and ice); introduction to avalanches; snowshoeing; wilderness first aid; hut to hut clinic; scrambling clinic; lightweight and ultralight backpacking clinic; winter wilderness survival; and GPS training. Below is a list of upcoming classes, beginning in June: PPG Basic Mountaineering School — Colorado Wilderness Backpacking June 5, 11, 15, 16, 22, and 23; Cost $38.

For more info contact Collin Powers at powerscollin@yahoo.com. Pre-Requisites: PPG BMS Colorado Wilderness Fundamentals & Colorado Wilderness Land Navigation.

There are three class lectures. Our discussions include finding the right backpack; systems review, including sleeping systems; cooking systems; clothing systems; ultra-light techniques; tents; trip planning; team composition; group dynamics; and site selection. We will do a gear check prior to the overnight to make sure you are properly equipped.

There is a CMC Rating Trip (overnight) that is designed to reinforce principles and techniques discussed in class.

PPG Intro to Mountain Biking—September 10, 12, 14, 21, and 28; Cost $35.

Learn the gear, maintenance, safety, and entrylevel techniques for basic mountain biking.

Mountain biking is a great way to enjoy the wilderness with a little more skill and finesse, of getting out for a short outing after work, and for building cardio before a big climb. There will be two classroom and three field sessions for the mountain biking class. There are also rental costs if you don’t own the gear. The mountain biking classroom dates are September 11 and 13 from 6:00–9:30 pm, and the field dates are September 15, 22, and 29 all day. A general fitness level to go on a full-day bike ride is required for the field sessions. The field sessions will be progressive in nature to build on skills. For more info contact Eric Hunter at ehunter67@yahoo.com

Other classes are planned but not yet scheduled. Contact Eric Hunter at ehunter67@yahoo. com or Collin Powers at powerscollin@yahoo. com for more info.

vorite is the Wilderness Seminar, August 25–27, at Margy’s Hut. We always welcome members from other CMC groups.

Learn More Attend the monthly Pikes Peak Group meeting the third Tuesday of each month (except May, November, and December) at 7:30, at our new venue, the All Souls Unitarian Church, 730 N. Tejon Street, or connect with members of the Pikes Peak Group by joining us on one of our many trips or classes.

FORT COLLINS The Fort Collins Group is the fourth-largest group in the CMC with nearly 400 members from the north Front Range area. We offer yearround activities, from monthly programs, to hiking, climbing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, various schools, and more. We have added a new course to our offerings: Skill-Building for Leaders Course, which will be held this month and led

by Ward Whicker, Steve Martin, and Kevin Willey. The course is designed for those seeking the skills to safely lead less-experienced individuals in ascending or descending more rugged and potentially dangerous terrain, such as steeper snowfields, Class 3 rock, or short sections of Class 4 terrain, where rope protection might be warranted for some party members. Topics will include Rope Protection, Scrambling, and Snow Climbing. It is designed primarily for active CMC leaders in the Fort Collins Group, and to those planning to become leaders. For more information, contact Ward Whicker at ward.whicker@ colostate.edu. Our annual BBQ Picnic Potluck at Roland Moore Park in Fort Collins will be June

ASPEN The Aspen Group has about 200 members from the Roaring Fork Valley, as well as members from several other states. We just completed a Wilderness First Aid Course and are looking forward to a Climbing Safety and Knots Review and GPS, Compass, and Map Workshop.

During the upcoming months, we will be hiking in the Grand Mesa and visiting many lakes in the Fryingpan Valley. We have two summer hut trips coming up: one service project at the McNamara Hut and another where we will hike from Janet’s to the Jackal Hut via The Colorado Trail. Among the 14ers that we will climb will be Castle Peak, Oxford, and Belford. Another fa-

26. Visit our booth this September at the Sustainable Living Fair in Fort Collins. And be sure to add our Annual Dinner to your schedule. It will be Saturday, November 9, featuring Colorado photographer John Fielder. For further information on the Fort Collins Group and for access to our Newsletters, visit our webpage at http://fortcmc.org or visit our group facebook page at http:// www.facebook.com/groups/fortcollinscmcgroup/.

WESTERN SLOPE The Western Slope Group is working with the state CMC Conservation staff on the Bureau of Land Management’s revision of the land-use plan for public lands in the Grand Junction area. We are working to protect the areas where we hike as well as some of the more remote and wild lands that provide primitive recreation and solitude, but are threatened by off-road vehicle use.

The BLM lands around Grand Junction we are focusing on are near town hiking destinations, such as the Bangs Canyon area, as well as proposed wilderness at South Shale Ridge in the Bookcliffs and the redrock Gateway Canyons. We are writing comments that capture our experiences in these areas to try to get greater protection for them from the BLM. △

◀ Members of the Aspen Group on a winter trip to the Peter Estin Hut.

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The Clinic

How to Become an Outdoor Leader

By Melanie Joyce, YEP Director

I can vividly remember the first time I realized I wasn’t an outdoor leader. It was the summer before my senior year of high school, and through a series of events I had been tapped to be an assistant leader on a weekend-long, multi-sport adventure trip for a group of local kids from my hometown in Vermont. My prior experience of working Recreation Department day camps, plus being female and having a recently acquired driver’s license, fit the department’s stringent prerequisites for being an adventure leader. So off I went, with eight unsuspecting kids in tow. Everything went great until day two, when deep underground in a local cave, the official trip leader asked if I could lead the kids back out. I mustered up some false confidence, and headed into the darkness, with the group following close behind. Before long, it became apparent that I actually only had two kids following me, and that the passage we were travelling through definitely wasn’t the one we had come in on. At that point I did what any inexperienced person would do in that situation. I kept going, hoping it would work itself out, and that the kids wouldn’t notice. My story has a happy ending; after a few scary minutes we popped out a little hole in the ground not far from the original entrance. The worst thing I had to deal with was the wrath of my boss, who I now realize could have used some help on leadership skills himself.

In the years since that first botched leadership attempt, I’ve gone on to make a career out of outdoor leadership. I still come back from just about every trip I lead with some new piece of knowledge or wishing that something had gone differently. However, after leading groups in the outdoors for almost 15 years, I feel confident in my ability to lead people safely and well. Some people say that leaders are born, not made; but if my experience in that cave proves anything, it’s that leadership is a skill that can be learned and developed. So how do you do it? The journey is different for everyone, but here are some good tips from the National Outdoor Leadership School on the skills to practice that will make anyone a strong leader.

Expedition Behavior (EB)

Coined by the founder of NOLS, Paul Petzoldt, EB means you put the needs of the group ahead of your own. Have a slow hiker prolonging your Fourteener ascent?

Your job is to encourage that hiker, get the group to rally behind him/her. This skill is welcome in any group and easy to practice.

Next time you’re out on a CMC hike, try slipping into the role of a leader and look for little ways to make everyone’s experience brighter.

Competence

Obviously it is essential to have solid technical skills in the endeavor you’re leading.

If there’s a particular outdoor skill you’re interested in, participate in a school at the CMC! Already have the skills, but feel tentative about being the lead? Sign on as an assistant for a trip or school first. Competence in leadership also relates to management. Be organized and on time for your trips, and have a clear vision for the day.

Scouting trips ahead of time is always helpful.

Communication

As a leader, communication goes beyond replying promptly to your e-mails (not that that’s not important!). Leaders communicate courageously. Maybe a trip you’re leading is going to be too difficult for a group member. Nobody likes to share that news, but as a leader, it is your responsibility to 14

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be honest and direct while still having empathy. Being a leader also means listening to the needs of your group, and addressing issues as they arise.

Judgment and Decision Making

Making judgment calls for a group is very different than making them for yourself.

Groups expect their leader to keep them safe, and sometimes this means making an unpopular decision. It’s difficult to tell your group to turn around a half mile from the summit, but if clouds are rolling in, that’s your job. This is a tough skill to master, but in the end, people value a leader who they feel safe with over one who gets them to the top every time. It’s helpful to establish safety parameters with your group at the start of your day; e.g., a set turn-around time, to avoid making emotion-fueled decisions later.

Tolerance for Adversity and Uncertainty

Nature is unpredictable. You could plan the most detailed and thought-out backpacking itinerary possible, and then a Colorado summer lightning storm could completely derail your plans. Leaders are flexible and see challenges as opportunities. I don’t remember all of the easy days that I’ve had on trips, but I sure do remember the time I had to portage a canoe over two miles of bog in the pouring rain. I realize how much tenacity moments like those have given me.

Self-Awareness

No leader is perfect. Personally, I’m extremely safe and technically proficient, but I’m a horrible morning person and need to crash as soon as dinner is over on trips. I once had the perfect co-leader on a monthlong trip who didn’t really know how to navigate, but loved getting up early and making the coffee, and could lead a campfire like nobody’s business. Where I’m going with this is know your strengths and weaknesses, own up to them, it’s OK. You can improve areas of weakness, but you can also use the strengths of your group to balance them out. Find a leadership style that works for you, and be authentic.

Vision and Action

Finally, as a leader, you should lift your group up. Figure out how to motivate your group to see beyond the challenges of a tough trail, to the possibility of how beautiful it will be at the summit. Use group goals to motivate people to their full potential.

To do this you need to have a good understanding of what a group or individual wants to get out of their outdoor experience. Sometimes this can be accomplished simply by a quick go-around at the trailhead at the start of the day. Check in with your group throughout the day to keep tabs on how people are feeling.* Becoming an outdoor leader takes time and practice, but is extremely empower-

ing. If you love recreating in the Colorado Mountains, becoming a leader is a way to pass that on to others. The CMC has so many opportunities to develop outdoor leadership skills. If you are interested in developing as a leader, and would like someone to point you in the right direction, contact your CMC Group for more information. △

Want to Become a Trip Leader for the Colorado Mountain Club?

The following requirements apply to all Colorado Mountain Club Group trip leaders (Additional leadership requirements may apply; please check your CMC Group.)

■ Be a Colorado Mountain Club member.

■ Be at least 18 years of age. Co-leaders 16 years and older are encouraged.

■ Complete Leader Training in your CMC Group.

■ Have mountain skills adequate for the trip.

■ Regardless of experience, co-lead at least one trip with an experienced leader and receive a positive evaluation by that leader for the specific trip classification. (Note: some CMC Groups have additional LIT requirements.)

■ Receive approval or Trip Leader certification by your CMC Group.

■ Complete Wilderness First Aid. (Note: First Aid Certification Requirements vary depending on the type, or classification, of trip. WFA is required for more difficult and remote trips.)

* The above tips were adapted from the National Outdoor Leadership School’s Web site, which can be found at http://www.nols. edu/about/leadership/leadership_skills.shtml

Read the complete CMC Trip Leader Manual here: http://www.cmc.org/Portals/0/GoverningDocs/Trip%20leader%20manual%20 2011.pdf

◀ YEP Director Melanie Joyce has spent nearly 15 years leading groups in the outdoors. Photo by Frank Burzynski.

Q&A with YEP Staff Member Carter Nadolsky

Carter Nadolsky has been involved in the Youth Education Program in a variety of roles for the past eight years. He has made a progression from camper, to volunteer, to staff, and is a unique example of leadership development in action here at the CMC. How old were you when you started in YEP? How were you involved when you first started?

I was 8 years old when I was first involved in the Youth Education Program. I was in the Intro to Rock Climbing Camp.

Carter Nadolsky▼

How old are you now and how are you involved with YEP these days?

Now I’m 15 years old and I belay for YEP as a staff member.

What was your progression through the program (how did you go from camper to paid staff member)?

The process I went through from camper to employee was: 1. I did most of the rock climbing camps.

2. I volunteered for a good chunk of time with YEP. 3. I became an employee.

What is a favorite memory or experience that you’ve had with YEP? My favorite memory with YEP was when I was first in the Intro to Rock Climbing Camp. We were in Eldorado Canyon at Supremacy Slab and there was a climb (I’m not sure which one) that looked absolutely insane. After getting halfway up I was scared out of my mind. It probably took about a 1/2 hour, but I made it to the top. The feeling of success was nothing I had ever felt before. (After going to Supremacy Slab this last summer and looking at that climb, it’s crazy how much smaller it was).

What have you learned about being a leader through your experiences with YEP? Working with YEP has improved my leadership skills in so many ways, but there’s one that stands out to me.

That is problem solving. You have a way of learning things that makes sense to you, but then you’re teaching a kid the same way and they look totally baffled. You need to quickly think of a whole new way to teach and present the problem. It’s a lot of fun.

Do you have any advice for other kids or teens on how they can become leaders in the outdoor field?

My advice for other people interested in becoming leaders in the outdoor field is to volunteer. There is so much you can learn by watching these great people do what they love to do and educate others about the outdoors at the same time.

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Pathfinder

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NAVIGATING SNOWY MOUNTAIN PASSES DURING SUMMER

By Mike Zawaski

Even though the snow has disappeared from lower elevations, ideal conditions for kicking steps exist up high. A climber heads up the slopes of Ruby Peak in the Elk Mountains. Photo by Mike Zawaski

The paragraphs that follow are meant to illustrate the benefits of knowing how to travel safely over snow, and to inspire any reader to spend a few sunny summer days learning these fundamental mountaineering skills. The Paintbrush and Cascade Canyon Loop in Grand Teton National Park is beautiful, but so popular in July and August that you might get turned away because the camping spots have all been taken. Park Service rangers are inclined to discourage hikers from attempting the route before the snow has melted entirely because, when the steepest por16

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Late May through early July is an ideal time for getting up to the high country. The days are long, the air is cool, and less people are in the mountains. The other enticing component of early summer is that winter snow may cover long slopes of talus that makes ascending snow easy and descending a joy. Of course, this depends on your perspective. After years of traveling the high country, I’ve noticed two camps of people: those who like traveling on snow and those who don’t. I hope to entice you into joining the camp who enjoys snow. Knowing how to kick some steps up and down a snow slope opens many doors for outdoor travel.

While climbing peaks may not be your thing, it is very common to hike a long gentle, dry trail for hours only to encounter a short section of snow at a mountain pass that prevents some people from making it to their final destination or completing their loop hike.

tion of the trail up the pass is covered with snow, backpackers have fallen and slid as much as 100 feet into the boulders below. However, going in June is some people’s only option, and going in the off-season has several advantages. Yes, you will miss most of the summer wildflowers, but fewer bugs, fewer people, and great snow are excellent incentives.

My girlfriend and I once hiked up Paintbrush Canyon in June. Snow was plentiful, especially on the north-facing aspects of the canyon. The benefit of having a trail is that it makes finding the way

easier and reduces hiker impacts. But when everyone walks on the same snowcovered area, the snow gets compressed and freezes solid. So there we were, over a mile from the steep slopes on the pass, faced with the most difficult snow we would experience during the entire trip.

So we pulled out our axes and proceeded to kick and chop steps as necessary. Safely beyond this steep section, we were left to find our own way as the hiking trail was completely buried by snow, and faint footprints in the snow led in a multitude of directions. Our confidence on

snow had allowed us to save time and to take an easier route, contouring along a 25-degree slope instead of hiking over slick rocks and trees that other hikers had used to avoid the snow.

The next day we encountered the pass separating the two canyons. It would have been treacherous for an unprepared hiker. During the early morning the snow was firm and a set of tracks in the snow marked the hiking trail. However,

the other side of the pass, glissading and plunge stepping—where others had made riskier traverses while trying to stay on dry ground—was safer, faster, and more fun. On our way back to the trailhead, we were stopped by a pair of hikers looking for information on the route we just completed. After talking to them about their experience traveling on snow and seeing their lightweight hiking boots and trekking poles, everyone’s conclusion

efits of learning to kick steps and use an ice ax are important. One of the most common suggestions I make to people who ask me about becoming more proficient moving on snow is that they should sacrifice a little bit of their free time purely working to improve their skills. Find yourself a gentle snow slope with a safe run out. When the snow is still plentiful in May and June, practice locations are abundant; however, as summer con-

Don’t let summer snow keep you out of the backcountry.

Knowing how to kick steps and use an ice ax opens up hiking routes like this in the Elk Mountains during June.

Photo by Mike Zawaski

the tracks were melted out and the route, though low angle, crossed a steep section of snow with boulders below, an obvious hazard. My girlfriend turned to me and said, “That looks like an accident waiting to happen.” We instead opted for a shorter but steeper route, which had a safe runout in case my girlfriend fell (i.e., there were no rocks to slide into). We also picked this steeper route because it faced more to the south, which allowed the snow to soften earlier so we could kick steps more easily. On our way down

was that they were unlikely to complete their loop hike and they were going to have to settle for an out and back trip, without climbing to the pass. They were visibly disappointed, but we never saw them again to find out whether they reached the pass or not.

This is just one of the examples I can think of from my experience where having basic snow travel skills gave me the confidence to travel in snowy terrain and thus, experience some beautiful places that others were unable to see. The ben-

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tinues, you’ll need to be picky and search out north-facing slopes because they receive less sunlight. Describing the techniques for kicking steps or using an ax are outside the scope of this article, but my purpose is to motivate you to want to learn, not to instruct you how.

So what are the advantages of carrying an ice ax? An ax does add a little weight to your pack, but it is an essential tool for helping you maintain balance. A ski pole or stick can also be used for maintaining balance, but an ax is far superior for chopTrail & Timberline

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While the consequences of sliding down this gully in Rocky Mountain National Park seem high, the likelihood of falling and sliding is low because the snow has softened to a point where kicking steps and self-arresting are easy. Photo by Mike Zawaski

ping away at very hard snow (chopping steps) if you can’t kick a step, helping you stop if you fall (self-arresting), and helping you control your speed as you slide down a long slope of soft snow (glissading) to escape an impending thunderstorm or to simply enjoy a ride. But if you start learning to kick steps you’ll also get the advantage of feeling confident moving on what can be hazardous terrain; for example, when trails get covered with a thin layer of snow that soon turns very firm after hikers have compressed the snow and Mother Nature has provided a few warm days and cold nights. But what if you don’t have an ice ax? Many of us have gone on long hikes into the high country without seeing any snow from the trailhead, but sure enough, just before getting to a pass, a short section of snow blocks our path. Whether you have an ice ax or not, what you should do is the focus of this article.

Before getting into the specific details, here are two concepts to ponder. The first concept to consider is the probability of falling versus the consequences of that fall on the slope you are thinking about climbing. If you are experienced kicking 18

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steps, the probability of falling is low; if you are inexperienced kicking steps, the probability of falling is higher unless the snow is soft and the slope angle is low.

The consequences of a fall might be your main factor for determining whether you continue on or turn around. For example, if the consequences of falling are high; i.e., you will slide down a long steep snow slope into a boulder field, it would probably be wise to head home.

On the other hand, if only a short steep section exists right off the trail and falling means a short slide onto a flat surface, you might consider continuing on.

For the second concept, one of the most common places people fall are at locations where the terrain changes in some way; climbers refer to them as transition zones. Examples include moving from low angled to steep snow, transitioning from rock onto snow, or traveling along a snowy section where the consequences of a fall mean you will slide much farther than you would have a few feet before.

The reason accidents occur is because people fail to adjust their technique or equipment until it is too late. So if you plan to climb up the snow, recognize that you are at a transition zone so it will be important to kick good steps right away.

Now that you are equipped with these ideas, here are some specific techniques you can use if you intend to head up or down the snow. Of course, if you can avoid the snow altogether and travel on rock or dry ground this may be preferable. I generally avoid traveling around the snow because this tramples the fragile alpine vegetation. If traveling on snow is your only option, often, the path taken

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by other hikers following the trail may be more treacherous. Because the snow other hikers have kicked steps into may be very firm or icy, especially in the early morning, follow their path only if the steps are large enough to step on or soft enough so that you can improve them. Trying to tiptoe on icy steps is a recipe for falling.

Instead, choose the shortest route, with the lowest consequences of falling, and the softest snow. The softest snow is usually on the slopes that face most directly toward the sun. Don’t underestimate this variable. The consistency of the snow can vary dramatically over a few feet if one area receives more direct sunlight. Eastfacing slopes will soften first each day, then south facing, and finally west-facing slopes. North-facing slopes will receive some sunlight in summer, but they will be the slowest to soften.

When it’s time to get on the snow, my first suggestion is to encourage you to plan for the worst. If you’re not sure how firm the snow will be, presume that it will be difficult; you don’t want to get 20 feet up with a dangerous landing below and wish you had planned accordingly. Put on your gloves, tighten your laces, cinch up your gaiters, and put on a jacket if the snow crossing is going to take a while. If you have an ice ax or ski pole, take it out. While a ski pole may be useful for helping you maintain balance, it won’t directly help you kick a better step to stand on. For very firm snow or ice, if you don’t have an ice ax, find a dagger- or wedge-shaped rock to assist you in creating steps. The rock should be as light as possible, but large enough to hold in your hand and allow you to stab at the snow and create a small platform to stand up. This technique may sound desperate, but I’ve used it on multiple occasions; though only over very short distances.

Kicking good steps should be your primary means of security. One of the most common pieces of feedback I offer to people learning to climb snow is that they don’t kick hard enough. Kick like

you mean it; this is not the kind of place for treading lightly. Also realize that you may need to kick multiple times to make a good step.

If you fall, an ice ax is your best tool for stopping yourself. Practice this skill; the faster you are sliding, the harder it will be to stop yourself, so being proficient getting into the self-arrest position is essential to help you keep a slip from turning into a long slide. If the snow is very firm, it is unlikely you will stop yourself if you fall. Even if the snow is soft and I am without an ax, I may bring along a rock to assist me in stopping myself if I fall. To do this, put one hand at the top of the rock and the other lower down while pulling your arms in tight so your weight pushes the rock into the snow. Stopping yourself by using your ski pole is done in a similar manner. Grab the pole with one hand about two feet up from the bottom and the other a foot up from the bottom.

Now pull your lower arm in so the pole is tucked into your armpit. For either technique, your toes will dig into the snow bet-

ter if you raise your butt off the ground.

When it’s time to descend, your options are to either avoid the snow, sit on your butt and slide (glissading), walk down the slope keeping your legs nearly straight and plunging your heels in (the plunge step), or kicking steps while facing sideways or facing the slope. Each of these techniques has their advantages and disadvantages so I encourage you to practice before you must do this for real. Because descending steep snow is more difficult than ascending, plan your day accordingly. If the pass you plan to go down faces east and it has been cold at night, you may want to descend early while the snow is in the sun so it is soft.

People think of winter as a time for climbing snow because snow is most abundant, but late spring and early summer are really the ideal times because the avalanche danger is low and the snow is firm enough for you to stay on top. But don’t forget about other places in the country and world. Many beautiful volcanoes are covered in snow year-round in

the Pacific Northwest and some amazing treks in the Andes and Himalayas may have some snowy sections. Don’t let a little snow keep you from exploring. △ Mike Zawaski fills many roles in science and outdoor education. Snow Travel is the culmination of his experience climbing snowy peaks from Alaska to Peru, and all throughout the Western United States. It has also come from his 17 years of experience instructing courses and training staff at the Colorado Outward Bound School.

Zawaski runs an educational nonprofit, the Observant Naturalist (www.ObservantNaturalist.org), which provides scientifically accurate, fun, and experiential science education to teachers and the public. He also teaches college courses in astronomy, geology, and meteorology at Front Range Community College.

He has published science research in the field of archaeoastronomy and geology. His work in archaeoastronomy has been to survey Inca monuments in Peru to help understand how the Inca used astronomy in their culture. As a geologist for the Colorado Geological Survey, Zawaski helped complete the field work necessary to create three 7.5 minute geologic maps within Colorado.

SNOW TRAVEL: SKILLS FOR CLIMBING, HIKING, AND MOVING ACROSS SNOW The most recent release in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, Snow Travel: Skills for Climbing, Hiking, and Moving Across Snow is an essential guide for any hiker, climber, peak bagger, or skier/snowboarder who wants to learn more about snow travel. This expansive how-to book covers all the fundamental techniques for kicking steps; using an ice ax and crampons; and for traversing, resting on, and traveling up and down snow. In addition, precise descriptions of such techniques as climbing over a lip, the decision-making process, how to choose a route, snow hazards, putting on and removing skis on a steep slope, and self-arresting with ski poles are examined in this one-of-a-kind guide.

Available now from Mountaineers Books! A limited number of copies are available at the Colorado Mountain Club. Or you may place your order online at http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/Snow-Travel-P995.aspx or over the phone at 206.223.6303. CMC members receive a 20% discount on all Mountaineers Books.

208 pages, 6.5 x 8.5, 50 black and white photographs and 15 illustrations, paperback, $21.95, ISBN 978-1-59485-720-1.

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SafETy firST HoW WE LEarnEd THaT THE TEn ESSEnTiaLS rEaLLy arE ESSEnTiaL

What follows is an account by a CMC member, who prefers to remain anonymous, of what can happen when one does not carry all of the Ten Essentials in one’s pack during a hike.

I’m a CMC member with more than 40 years of mountain hiking experience. My spouse, whom we’ll call Mary, is my most frequent hiking partner. We’ve hiked on four continents, occasionally with guides in unfamiliar territory, but mostly on our own or with CMC-led groups.

Our (mis)adventure took place in the Andes of Peru. Living part-time in the Cusco area, we’ve hiked over two dozen routes and were quite familiar with the surrounding areas. My favorite type of hike involves an ontrail ascent of between 2,000 and 3,500 feet, followed by a mellow descent and a celebratory meal.

Part of our trek was a climb that appeared on my fairly vague map (500-meter contour lines) up to a spectacular 14,000-foot tundra pass. We had trekked the pass before with our Peruvian friend Adela. It offered spectacular views of five snow-covered peaks over 18,000 feet. Our planned descent from the pass would bring us just a few mellow kilometers down to a little village where we would find food and transportation home to our cabin.

▲ A snapshot of the Peruvian landscape.

The Ten Essentials had long since been seared into our brains by CMC trip leaders. However, Mary had of late preferred shorter climbs, so we cheated a bit: • Water —In my role as trip leader, but also a very empathetic person, I had been less than strict in my enforcement of the “Ten Essentials” rule to minimize Mary’s pack weight. A strict constructionist would have insisted on at least 10 liters of water for our anticipated 4- to 6-hour climb at 12,000 to 14,000 feet. Because of Mary’s ailing back, we carried only 6 liters (Also because my digital SLR camera with telephoto zoom lens is equivalent in weight to about 4 liters of water.)

• Maps? We had two! Unfortunately, one map was rather causal in its approach to elevation changes and the other showed terrain only as far east as the halfway point of our expected stroll.

• Compass, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, firestarter, first aid kit, flashlight, and two whistles—check.

• Extra clothes—Well, sort of. We were in the high desert. We carried windshirts, good rain jackets, space blankets, hats, and extra socks. Mary selected for the occasion Capri length hiking pants. I had boring standard lightweight convertible zip-offs.

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• More rain gear—A great poncho with grommets for use as a shelter.

• Knife—No, but that’s the TSA’s fault. They confiscated my Swiss Army knives from my carry-ons so often in the past, I’ve stopped traveling with them to teach them a lesson.

• Extra food—Being light eaters, especially at high altitude, we had two empanadas and two candy bars each, along with a Coca-Cola. We ran through our cache of power bars, balance bars, and hammer gel about six hikes back. None exist in Peru.

Around 9 am we encountered a local señora overseeing a flock of sheep. I pointed to the canyon trail and asked, in Spanish, if that was the route to the pass I had in mind. She responded, “It’s very distant.” For those of you unfamiliar with the local dialect, I interpreted that to mean, “Well, it’s a little challenging, but with your Black Diamond (shock-absorbing!) trekking poles and fine European boots, you’ll do great!” For Mary, who didn’t hear the conversation and doesn’t speak much Spanish, I simplified it with, “She said it’s a little difficult.”

Around 2:30 pm, we had exited the canyon and trekked another two hours. We had crossed the valley where I expected to find our trail. It appeared we needed to climb and descend two more summits, 800 feet each, to get to the next valley, where surely our path lay. We’d been operating in the 13,000-foot zone for a while.

Mary, who lacks my passion for discovery, suggested we turn around. I suggested that we advance a bit off-trail to search for a secondary trail that might circumnavigate the two summits that seemed to be discouraging her. As leader, I confidently strode ahead, working my way around a sandy cactus-infested pile of boulders.

It’s the high desert, remember? My confidence was dealt a blow as a sandy ledge disintegrated under me, and I slid about 15 feet toward a much longer and steeper drop before a lone but sturdy mountain mahogany stopped me.

As any conscientious and supportive leader would, I asked Mary to route-find for a while. She decided to head lower and exit from this side valley into the broad Urubamba River valley, far below us.

As we descended, the faint trail disappeared into a series of high steep terraces, once carved out for farming but now overgrown with yucca, prickly pear, and other cacti.

By 5:00 pm, we were within an hour of darkness and decided we had no choice but to spend the night. Our food and water was mostly gone now. The hot sun and hard climbing had taken its toll.

It rained intermittently throughout the night. We were wearing all the clothing we carried and slept between our two space blankets and poncho. Gravity had its way with us and we slid down-slope into the cacti just below us. It was about 32 degrees by morning with a light glaze of ice on the ground.

At daybreak, we packed up and started hiking. Still no trail in sight, but after three hours of Class 3 climbing, we could see a trail that headed toward the main river valley. After a couple of hours on this walking path, we saw the town of Urquillos. It lay a couple of thousand feet below us but only about a single kilometer in distance. Rejoicing, we immediately began to plan our imminent purchase of food and drink.

But by noon, we could see trails descending to the town but no connections with our current trail. We attempted to descend the slope that lay between us and the town, but it was so steep we fell repeatedly. Fortunately, the abundant spiny yucca and prickly pear cactus we had come to know so well kept us from sliding very far.

With the town so clearly in sight, we had a strong signal on our Peruvian cell phone. We phoned our local friends, Adela and Adolfo. They offered to bring us food and water and help us descend.

However, they were unfamiliar with the area, and had difficulty believing we were not somewhere near the standard route above the town, on the opposite side of the canyon from our ledge.

After a couple of frustrating hours of my trying to guide their search for us, Mary offered to descend on her own to the town and lead our friends to our ledge. I was too weak from dehydration to accompany her. While Mary hiked down, I, somewhat feebly, waved our space blankets to try to draw the attention of our friends below. Fortunately, a rainstorm cooled me down and a bit of water I’d collected on the space blanket gave me a bit more energy. (If I’d had one of the many Swiss Army knives now in the custody of the TSA, I would have been able to cut the narrow neck off one of our 2.5 liter plastic bottles and collect much more water.) I used my newfound energy to worry about Mary. I blew my whistle every 20 minutes or so, hoping to lead the searchers to our spot, but as the wind picked up, I realized it was increasingly unlikely they’d hear me. At 5:30 pm, more than two and a half hours after Mary left, I heard a whistle, feeble but distinct, responding. Excited, I signaled more frequently, getting only occasional responses. Eventually, as dusk arrived, I shouted Mary’s name. She responded weakly. She was resting on a ledge about 100 feet below me. I asked if she had our friends with her. The absence of a response confirmed my feeling that she was alone.

When Mary appeared, her face was ashen from exhaustion after hiking for more than three hours. She had hiked down in the rain to an area close to the town but separated by a 75-foot sheer cliff.

By now it was dark and raining again.

At 7 pm, Adela had the police from the town below on the phone with us. After deciding we were outside the town’s geographic limits, they informed us they could not assist us, but would call the National Police’s local unit. We were close enough for them to see our flashlight signal. The National officer told me we were also beyond his jurisdiction, but he would contact the local National Police High Altitude Rescue unit who could reach us by 10 pm. Food and hot drink, it sounded too good to be true. Well, it was.

The rescue unit remained uncertain about our exact location. They found a local farmer who knew the general route we had taken, and started their search back at the trailhead, which we left some 40 hours earlier. The revised arrival time was 3 am. They told us not to move (welcomed advice!). By now it was snowing and quite cold. Mary, exhausted, hungry, and dehydrated from her heroic effort, was extremely cold. I worried about hypothermia in the snow and wind, which had steadily increased. She managed to sleep as I rubbed her shoulders and back to keep her warm. We improved our situation somewhat by using our handy umbrella as a windscreen.

At 3 am I heard someone shouting my name. I roused Mary.

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Lessons Learned: ■ Carry every single item listed in the Ten Essentials. It may save your life one day.

■ Maps! Make sure you have complete coverage of your planned route.

■ GPS! Even if a unit can’t help by providing route information, knowing your exact location will help make even the most rudimentary map more helpful. A waypoint location will help rescuers immensely.

■ Talk! Ask multiple local sources for route information if it’s a route you’re not familiar with.

■ “Extra food, water, and clothing” means enough to safely spend at least one unplanned night.

She slowly moved to her feet and waved the flashlight in the air as I sounded the whistle.

To no avail, however, as the searchers were somewhere above us. The small tree sheltering us was apparently blocking our light from their view. We were a bit discouraged, but cheered that the team was close. Mary fell back asleep, and I continued to listen to my iPod (the 11th Essential in my opinion) and awaited dawn.

Just as the horizon began to lighten, I again heard my name being called. This time, our rescuers spotted our light very quickly, and surrounded us immediately, offering hot tea, drinks, and food. They then led us on the climb out. They told us that the descent to the town that seemed so close was actually impossible without full technical climbing gear for rappelling down. The trail connections that had existed in the past had been wiped out by rainy season landslides.

It took nine more hours to return to the place we had started. It also turned out that when Adela filed the original report describing us and including our ages, the police were shocked, because older Peruvians don’t hike much for fun, especially in the higher mountains. One guy asked Adela, “Are they bored with their lives?” (The answer is no) We arrived at Chinchero, the town where we’d started out 55 hours earlier, at about 3:30 pm. Several more rescue staff joined us along the way with more drinks and snacks, and to help take some of the burden off the original rescue squad. All the officers were incredibly fit, sympathetic, and professional.

The police arranged transport to Cusco for us, where they insisted we be checked out medically. (We wanted only to return to the cabin and sleep.) After three IV bottles apiece, and a case of electrolyte replacement fluids, we were able to return to our cabin the next day. △ 22

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CMC 101:

fun facts about our favorite outdoor recreation, Education, and Conservation organization

by amanda larrInaga, marketIng and membershIp dIreCtor

Left to right: Albert R. Ellingwood, Barton Hoag, and Eleanor Davis take a break after a successful climb. Courtesy Colorado Mountain Club Archives.

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CMC founding member Mary Sabin.

Courtesy Colorado Mountain Club Archives

I moved to Colorado a mere sIx months ago, just a few short weeks before I started my tenure wIth the Colorado mountaIn Club. as the marketIng and membershIp dIreCtor, I’ve been fortunate to work wIth dIfferent aspeCts of the organIzatIon, whICh has allowed me to learn so muCh about not only the amazIng mountaIns of the state we all Call home, but of the rICh hIstory of thIs long-standIng volunteer-run organIzatIon. wIth over 10 years of experIenCe wIth nonprofIts and volunteer-run organIzatIons, I have never seen IndIvIduals wIth the same level of passIon, CommItment, and dedICatIon as I have seen at the CmC. durIng my fIrst week of work wIth the CmC, I was asked to help Come up wIth a ConCIse message to desCrIbe what the CmC Is all about.talk about a task! the desCrIptIon I drafted holds true now, as It dId when the CmC was founded 101 years ago:“the Colorado mountaIn Club works to ensure that Current and future generatIons have the aCCess and abIlIty to enjoy Colorado’s open spaCes and outdoor aCtIvItIes. as one of Colorado’s oldest organIzatIons, the Colorado mountaIn Club foCuses on ConservatIon, advoCaCy, youth and adult eduCatIon, and outdoor reCreatIon adventures.” wIth thIs legaCy steeped In envIronmental and outdoor reCreatIon foresIght and fortItude, I am truly proud to Call myself a Colorado mountaIn Club member and feel prIvIleged to have been IntroduCed to Colorado’s mountaIns through our organIzatIon. In CommemoratIng our 101 years as a volunteer-based organIzatIon, I’ve CompIled a lIst of 101 faCts I’ve learned about and have gaIned an appreCIatIon for, regardIng the Colorado mountaIn Club’s hIstory and Culture. whIle It may be far from exhaustIve, It has been eye openIng and InspIrIng for thIs young mountaIneer hopeful, new to Colorado.

1. In any given year, Adventure Travel leads up to 20 trips domestically and abroad, including countries as unique and diverse as New Zealand, Nepal, Russia, and Argentina.

2. One of the legacy Adventure Travel trips includes a trip to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. On this trip, participants stay in the same lodge as they did when the outing was first offered, in part because the lodge is still owned by the same family.

3. The Colorado Mountain Club is a partner in the American Mountaineering Museum, alongside the American Alpine Club, The National Geographic Society, and Colorado Mountain School.

4.The American Mountaineering Museum is named after world-renowned explorer Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. 5. Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. was born on June 7, 1910, in Cambridge, Massachusetts. He first climbed Mount Washington at the age of 11. Two years later, his mother gave him his first camera, a Kodak Brownie, the point-and-shoot of the day. He remained passionate about climbing and

photography for the rest of his life.

6.The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum (BWAMM) opened in February 2008 and is America’s first and only museum dedicated to the heroism, technology, culture, and spirit of mountaineering; it’s also one of very few mountaineering museums in the world.

7. Each year, the museum honors individuals for their accomplishments both on and off the mountain by inducting them into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence.

8. In 2013, the inductees were Nick Clinch, Barry Corbet, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Jeff Lowe, and Peter Metcalf.

9. The Colorado Mountain Club’s first permanent home was purchased in 1974 in Denver.

10. More recently, the building that houses both the BWAMM and the CMC’s state offices is the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden.

11.The AMC is jointly owned by the American Alpine Club and the Colo-

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rado Mountain Club.

12. The American Mountaineering Center was originally Golden High School.

13. The BWAMM resides in what was formerly the girls’ gym.

14. The AMC includes a climbing wall that is used for adult and youth education programs.

15. In addition, the Denver Group offers open climbing in the evenings at the AMC. 16. With such unique character, the building is also home to a number of office dogs.

17. At the CMC, this number varies, depending on the day. Some of the dogs you might meet are named Beans, Kali, Laia, Olin, Piper, Rooney,Tsuga, and Tully.

18. The building was purchased in 1993 and underwent a $4.3 million renovation prior to opening its doors as the American Mountaineering Center.

19. The American Mountaineering Center is on the National Register of Historic Places.

20. In addition to serving as the headquarters for the CMC’s state office, it is also the Denver Group’s “Clubhouse.”

21. The Boulder Group maintains office hours at its volunteer-run office in South Boulder.

22. The Boulder Group built the Brainard Cabin in 1928.

23. The Boulder Group also established and maintains snowshoe trails in the area.

24. Brainard Cabin is open on most weekend days from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm, from mid-December to mid-April, with coffee and hot chocolate for $1 per visitor.

25. The CMC has had as many as 16 Groups across the state.

26. Currently there are 14 Groups in Colorado, with Denver being the largest.

27. In the last 10 years, the CMC has provided outdoor recreation outings for close to 200,000 adults.

28. All of these trips have been led by past and current volunteer trip leaders.

29. In 2012, this number was close to 800!

30. In addition to these outings, the CMC offers intensive outdoor recreation skills schools. Last year the number of schools offered statewide was 107.

31. Of those 100+ schools offered annually, the CMC educates an average of 6,000 adult students a year.

32.These outdoor recreation skills schools range from wilderness survival to knot tying to technical rock climbing to avalanche awareness.

33. The founding members of the Colorado Mountain Club consisted of only 25 individuals in 1912.

34. This number grew to 200 less than a year later.

35. The very first trip offered was to Denver’s Cheesman Park.

36. The first hike was to the top of South Boulder Peak a little over a month later.

37. Charter members include Enos Mills, whose efforts were influential in establishing Rocky Mountain National Park; Roger Toll, who held the prestigious positions of superintendent at Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, and Mount Rainier National Parks; and Carl Blaurock, who was joined

by William Ervin as the first individuals to climb all of Colorado’s known 14,000-foot peaks.

38. Around the same time the Colorado Mountain Club was being organized in Denver in 1912, mountain enthusiasts were also organizing clubs in Colorado Springs and Boulder.

39. The Colorado Springs club joined the Colorado Mountain Club in 1919 and became the CMC’s Pikes Peak Group.

40. The year following the inception of the Pikes Peak Group, the Front Range Club joined and became the Boulder Group.

41. The Fort Collins Group was formed in 1921.

42. The Western Slope Group was created in 1950.

43. The El Pueblo Group was started in 1962.

44. A Longmont area group, Longs Peak Group, was started in 1963.

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45. The San Juan Group was formed in 1965.

46. The Colorado Mountain Club currently has 6,500 active members.

47. This number includes 180 40-Year members.

48. And 197 Life members.

49. The Colorado Mountain Club’s first publication, in 1915, was a series of mountain wildlife pamphlets.

50. Starting in 1918, Trail & Timberline has been published as the Club’s magazine, which used to be published on a monthly basis.

51. In 1923, Roger Toll put together the Colorado Mountain Club’s first mountaineering book—a gazetteer with all the named summits in the state, along with their elevations.

52. One of the Colorado Mountain Club’s most definitive books, Guide to the Colorado Mountains (or Ormes, as it is affectionately known), has been in continuous publication for more than 60 years, earning the title of the best-selling Colorado book of all time, with well over 250,000 copies sold to date.

53. In addition to Ormes, CMC Press has approximately 40 books in print.

54. CMC Press publishes approximately three to four new books per year.

55. Of these books, CMC Press maintains and updates The Colorado Trail: The Official Guidebook of the Colorado Trail Foundation.

56. In 2013, the press will publish The Best Vail Valley Hikes; The Best Estes Park Hikes;The Colorado Trail Databook, fifth edition; and The Best Rocky Mountain National Park Hikes.

57. Some of the CMC’s best-selling books include The Colorado Trail:The Official Guidebook, now in its eighth edition; The Colorado 14ers: The Standard Routes;The Colorado 14ers Pack Guide; and The Best Front Range Hikes.

58. As one of the first organizations devoted to the Colorado mountains, the Colorado Mountain Club is the official repository for summit registers for all of the Fourteeners.

59. In fact, the CMC also maintains a comprehensive list of each person who has climbed all 54 of the Fourteeners.

60. Many famous mountaineers have been members of the Colorado Mountain Club.

61. A charter member of the CMC, the aforementioned Carl Blaurock often stood on his head after completing a climb.

62. Another charter member, Mary Cronin, was the first woman to climb all of Colorado’s Fourteeners.

63. Albert Russell Ellingwood, CMC member and pioneering Colorado mountaineer, has three peaks named after him, including the Ellingwood Ridge of La Plata Peak, the Ellingwood Arete ascent of Crestone Needle, and the Fourteener Ellingwood Point, near Blanca Peak.

64. James Grafton Rogers, Denver lawyer and outdoorsman who drafted legislation to create Rocky Mountain National Park, was a CMC member.

65. Another founding member was Mary Sabin, who, in 1911, wrote a series of articles in the Rocky Mountain News about the prospect of forming a mountain club.

66. The Colorado Mountain Club welcomed its first Executive Director in 1994 and now has a staff of 16 dedicated employees to supplement the Club’s volunteer efforts.

67. The Colorado Mountain Club’s birthday is April 26 and in 2013, the Club celebrated 101 years.

68. As part of the 100-year anniversary celebration, CMC members summited every publicly owned Fourteener in the state, getting approximately 400 climbers up and down safely—some of them making some pretty gnarly ascents, others climbing their first-ever Fourteener.

69. In 1999, the CMC launched a Youth Education Program (YEP) to extend its mission to Colorado’s youth.

70. Since then,YEP has educated over 70,000 students.

71. With an annual reach of 7,000 students, YEP provides outdoor recreation leadership education coupled with math and science curriculum.

72. A large percentage of those 7,000 students are considered low-in come or at-risk, and may be experiencing hands-on outdoor recreation adventures for the first time.

73. YEP also manages a Gear bank that houses an inventory of outdoor recreation gear for use by nonprofit organizations with youth programs.

74. Launching this summer, the Colorado Mountain Club is developing

Climbing a Fourteeneer is always a cause for celebration. Photo courtesy of Sam Hagopian

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The Youth Education Program (YEP) was launched in 1999 and reaches approximately 7,000 students a year. Here, A YEP student enjoys a climb on a sunny day. Photo by Brenda Porter.

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programming for young adult outdoor recreation leadership. It’s to be called “Alpine Start.”

75. The historical young adult outdoor recreation program of the Colorado Mountain Club in the Front Range was called the Denver Juniors.

76. Billy Roos, Director of Safety for Outward Bound, started out as a Denver Junior at age 14.

77.The largest outdoor recreation, education, and conservation organization in the Rocky Mountains, the CMC works with some of the country’s top outdoor recreation brands, including REI, Patagonia, and The North Face.

78.The partnership with REI has led to the CMC’s founding and continued involvement in the Outdoor Recreation Information Center (ORIC), the go-to Colorado outdoor recreation kiosk located at REI’s flagship store in Denver.

79. Some of our corporate partners do more than supply us with financial support and outdoor gear, some help ensure that its employees have access to our Club’s offerings through corporate memberships. The first corporate member in Colorado to do this was WhiteWave Foods.

80. The Colorado Mountain Club receives annual funding from the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District (SCFD). Since 1989, the SCFD has distributed funds from a 1/10 of 1% sales and use tax to organizations throughout the seven-county Denver Metro area.

81. Each year the Colorado Mountain Club hosts numerous outdoor recreation and conservation film festivals, including Banff Mountain Film Festival, Backcountry Film Festival, Radical Reels Film Festival, and the Wild and Scenic Film Festival.

82. The Banff Mountain Film Festival sold out both Friday and Saturday nights at Denver’s Paramount Theater in 2013.

83. 2013 will mark the 21st anniversary of the Backcountry Bash, an annual fund-raising event for the Colorado Mountain Club’s environmental conservation and advocacy efforts.

84. 2013 was the most well-attended Mountain Fest, the Colorado Mountain Club’s annual open house, to date.

85. Each year, the Colorado Mountain Club features world-renowned conservationists and outdoor enthusiasts as guest lecturers and presenters. During the last six months, this list has included Donny Roth, Dr. Jon Kedrowski, and Andrew Skurka.

86.The Colorado Mountain Club has partner Mountain clubs, such as The Mountaineers and the Appalachian Mountain Club, across the country that honor CMC member rates for trips and activities.

87. Backcountry Snowsports Initiative (BSI) is an extension of the Colorado Mountain Club’s advocacy work to defend human-powered winter recreation, while protecting the wild lands that support these activities.

88. The Colorado Mountain Club is a founding member of Outdoor Alliance Colorado—a coalition representing voices for human-powered recreation and conservation.

89. It is well known that CMC members led the charge in helping to establish Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915, but equally important is the role they played in the park’s designation as a wilderness area in 2009.

90. The Colorado Mountain Club helped convince the Franklin Roosevelt administration to expand Dinosaur National Monument from an 80-acre bone quarry in Utah into a 200,000+-acre park protecting the canyons of the Yampa and Green rivers in Colorado.

91. The Wilderness Act of 1964 is celebrating its fiftieth anniversary in 2014. The Colorado Mountain Club played a significant role in the enactment of the act, which continues to benefit our mountaineers and outdoor lovers today.

92. In 2012, Colorado Mountain Club members lobbied for and in response President Obama designated Chimney Rock a unique cultural landscape in the San Juan National Forest and a National Monument.

93. In 2013, the Colorado Mountain Club helped to push through draft legislation to protect Browns Canyon.

94. In 2012, the Colorado Mountain Club had 70 on-the-ground volunteer projects across Colorado.

95. This included over 7,500 volunteer hours, which doubled the amount of volunteer hours from the previous year.

96. Those 7,500+ hours were completed by over 600 volunteers and 40 youth volunteers.

97. The Colorado Mountain Club has countless examples of successful marriages from individuals meeting on CMC trips.

98. Some of these same couples have become avid volunteers and financial supporters of the Colorado Mountain Club. In fact in some cases, these amazing individuals leave part of their estate to the CMC. 99. Our volunteers are second to none. Many of our volunteers donate more time and financial services than an average employee.

100.The Colorado Mountain Club boasts numerous individuals who have volunteered for decades.

101. The Colorado Mountain Club would not be what it is today or be able to reach the 40,000+ adults it interacts with each year without its committed volunteers and members.

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Five Days on a Three-Day Climb Mount Rainier’s Liberty Ridge

By Jim Rickard

Kurt Wibbenmeyer (left) and Jim Rickard ascending lower Liberty Ridge.

Photo by Doug Kruesi

I

n 1998, I planned a climb of Mount Rainier via Liberty Ridge. A team member cancelled, the trip was off, and I ended up in Baja California.

I revived the idea in 2007, but a CMC trip to climb in the Alps was just too good to pass up. Another cancellation; this time my fault.

Still, on my “list,” I planned again for Liberty Ridge in May 2008. After recruiting a couple of good climbers and good friends, Doug Kruesi and Kurt Wibbenmeyer, it looked as if this one was a go. We 26

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scheduled vacations, bought airline tickets, did training climbs, and registered with Mount Rainier National Park. This time it was going to happen.

Two days before our flight, the Washington State Department of Transportation announced Cayuse Pass wouldn’t be open by Memorial Day weekend, and a park ranger called to tell us the road to the White River Campground (our trailhead) was still under several feet of snow and wouldn’t be open.

We did some desperate Internet research about other approaches to Liberty

Ridge—all of which were long—looked into other routes, and did some general grumbling. On the morning of Friday, May 23, the WSDOT Web site was revised to say that Cayuse Pass would be opened at noon. Our flight was that evening. Maybe we could get close? The park gate is about six miles from the trailhead; could we handle the extra distance?

In keeping with the theme of the trip, our flight was over an hour late. We got our rental van in Seattle, found our hotel in the dark, and woke the night attendant

Doug Kruesi at Thumb Rock camp.

Photo by Jim Rickard

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to get keys to our room. Still with no solid information, we planned to get up early and drive to the north side of the park on the assumption we could make an attempt on Liberty Ridge. If the roads weren’t open, we would have a very long drive back to the coastal lowlands and around to the south side of Mount Rainier to try another route.

We still didn’t have stove fuel, but assumed we could find some along the way.

Heading out Highway 410, we began passing signs warning that Cayuse and Chinook passes were closed, that the highway

was closed 40 miles ahead, and so on. Hoping the WSDOT Web site was more up to date than the signs, we drove on. A Target store, our first try for fuel, wouldn’t open until 10:00 am; we drove on. Although their main doors were locked, our next try, Walmart, was open. With a little more good luck, we bought their very last can of white gas. Fuel in hand, and a good breakfast at a roadside cafe improved our spirits. We passed another painted sign saying the pass was closed, but right next to it was a lighted electric sign saying it was open. Surely the

electric sign was current? Above 2,000 feet there was deep snow on both sides of the road, but the road was plowed. We entered the park and reached the turnoff for White River, just as a park ranger was locking the gate on the closed road. After explaining our situation, and asking if he could give us, or even just our packs, a ride, he said he could let us through, but that we probably couldn’t get past the ranger station. Yes! That would put us just over four miles from the trailhead.

After we filled out the paperwork, and Trail & Timberline

27

got our “blue bags”, he offered to see if he could get us any farther up the road—was this guy great, or what? On the first try, we couldn’t get past a snow blower working on the road, and there was no place to park. However, after we arranged our gear, we were able to get to the parking area for Owyhigh Lakes, about three miles from the trailhead. We put on snowshoes, loaded up our very heavy packs, and trudged past the bulldozer working on the six feet of snow on the road. We were at 3,700 feet, 10,412 feet below Liberty Cap; the scale of our planned climb began to sink in. *** The plan, now that we were almost back to it, was to pack in to Glacier Basin (>6,000’) the first night; cross the Winthrop and Carbon glaciers, and climb the lower portion of Liberty Ridge to Thumb Rock (>10,600’) the second night; then over the top (14,112’) and down to Camp Schurman (>9,500’) or all the way out by the third night. One of the problems with climbing Liberty Ridge is that everything has to be carried up a technical climb and over the top. With this in mind, we had trimmed the weight as much as we could, going over gear lists again and again and throwing out everything we thought we could get by without. Even so, you can only get so light; each of us had around 80 pounds of equipment, while perhaps 20 pounds of this was “worn” (such as boots, clothing, etc.) and 60 pounds was left in the packs.

We trudged up the road, with some nice views of the mountain in the distance, eventually reaching the Glacier Basin trailhead at the White River Campground. The deep snow made the trail difficult to follow in some areas, but eased the multiple stream crossings, where flooding had badly disrupted this trail. At some point we began finding strips of “caution tape,” apparently marking the way, but not always taking a logical route. As we were eating lunch I grumbled something about the fact that “They must have sent out some junior rang28

Trail & Timberline

Doug Kruesi leads, while Kurt Wibbenmeyer belays above Thumb Rock. Photo by Jim Rickard

er with a roll of tape to guess at the route.”

Moments later, said “junior ranger” and his roll of caution tape stepped out of a tangle of down trees along a slide path; the only person we saw on our hike in. Fortunately, he hadn’t heard me. We continued to Glacier Basin, and even pushed our camp an extra 500’ uphill. It had been an exhausting day, but we were on our way!

That night it rained. Instead of an 8- to 10-pound expedition tent, we had brought a 2-pound GoLite Hex, a teepee-like arrangement consisting of a conical tarp, a single center pole, and a separate floor.

While it was lightweight, with three people in it you couldn’t help but have part of your sleeping bag or pad hang out, which resulted in them becoming wet. With no chance of anything drying in the foggy morning, it all got packed wet, and remained wet (or frozen) for the rest of the trip. Oh, this was going to be fun.

We left our snowshoes in Glacier Basin, put on crampons, and headed up Saint Elmo Pass. Even with the rain and lightening, we were well rested, and were moving well. From the top of the pass we dropped a couple hundred feet onto the Winthrop Glacier and roped up. The clouds moved in and out, providing occasional glimpses of the shattered glacier above, alternating with whiteouts, which obscured the route ahead. It hadn’t dipped below freezing the

night before, so walking on the soft, raindrenched snow was work, but not overly difficult—most steps sank in 6” or so. Perhaps a third of the way across the glacier, Doug dropped into a crevasse to his hips; it was time to start taking this a little more seriously.

We alternated leading, and made it across the glacier to Curtis Ridge. Clouds had clamped down at about 10,500 feet, making it difficult to discern our route. But it was clear from here that while Curtis and Ptarmigan might be “ridges,” Liberty was a “buttress” at best. Carbon Glacier, starting from twin cirques on either side of Liberty Ridge, had chewed it away to a very steep, short, spur, rising 5,300 vertical feet in 6,700 horizontal feet. The toe of Liberty Ridge was still well above us at about 8,800’.

My 1996 guidebook indicated that you could reach Carbon Glacier from about the 7,500’ level on Curtis Ridge—whether the glacier has changed, or the author was mistaken, it would now require a 200-foot rappel off of rotten rock. We elected to take a quarter-mile detour down the ridge, lose a few hundred more feet, and start our crossing of the heavily crevassed Carbon Glacier from a safer start. Looking up Carbon toward our goal was intimidating; large crevasses and seracs appeared to block our way.

Two possible routes presented themselves:

one generally straight up the glacier, veering slightly east of Liberty Ridge; and another less direct approach involving crossing Carbon to the west, climbing steeply between seracs to a shelf in the glacier, and returning to approach the ridge from the west.

We found traces of a previous party’s tracks heading for the long route. After some discussion, we decided that if they took the less obvious route, perhaps they knew something we didn’t, and we headed off following what we could find of their old track.

The route went well enough to the base of the ridge, where we had to cross a couple impressive crevasses on dubious snow bridges. After those, we crossed a small bergschrund, and climbed to the ridge crest. At this point we learned that regardless of the name, “Liberty Ridge” really isn’t a ridge route. The spine of the ridge is loose, fractured, volcanic rock, precariously stacked in vertical pillars. It appeared the easiest route was to climb the steep snow and ice just west of the ridge crest, crossing bands of loose rock only when necessary. At times, it seemed that climbing the glacier along the perimeter of the cirque might be easier, but as afternoon wore on, bus-sized seracs began to break from the hanging glaciers, fall hundreds of feet, and explode into avalanches that swept the walls above the glacier. OK, so maybe Liberty Ridge isn’t a great route, but it’s the only route in the area that isn’t suicide.

Once on the ridge, and away from the crevasses, we unroped. In most places we could probably self arrest, and in any case we were too tired to deal with protection. I found that I was panting so hard for so long that the roof of my mouth was drying and cracking. We traded off breaking trail in the fresh snow—apparently the previous night’s rain had been snow at this elevation—and trudged on to our campsite. The clouds closed around us and it began to snow. *** Thumb Rock is big. From thousands of feet below it had appeared to be a small flake on the ridge; here it was a tower 100 feet long, 40 feet high, and 15 feet thick.

It’s not a single rock, either, but an aggregation of loosely bound chunks. There was a small rectangular tent platform dug into the saddle beyond the thumb, but it didn’t fit our more or less circular tent, and the wind was raging, making it all the more difficult.

Instead, we pitched the tent right next to Thumb Rock on the leeward side. Looking

at it from the high side just before going to bed, setting up our little nylon cone below a 40-foot high, 15-footwide pinnacle of loose stones didn’t look wise. What were the chances one of those rocks would fall through the tent and hit us in the night—1 in 10 maybe? After our 5,100-vertical-foot day with full packs, we were too tired to care; we hoped for the best. The vantage from Thumb Rock made something else clear: We had wondered why all the route descriptions had you packing over the top.

Why not set a high camp at Thumb Rock, climb to the summit with a day pack, and return? Because downclimbing, even on the relatively moderate slopes below the thumb, would be dangerous! Sure, you could do a pitch, or two, or ten; but in 2,000 feet the chance of making a mistake gets pretty high, and protecting the whole descent would take forever. This was the next thing we learned about this route: It is a total commitment; you can’t go left or right due to near continuous serac fall, and you can’t go down due to length and danger.

During the night the wind occasionally shifted direction just enough to shake the tent violently and force snow through the wall/floor gap to form drifts over and between our already wet sleeping bags. At times, the gusts were so violent I feared the tent would tear away. What would we do then? Sometime after midnight the winds finally calmed—peace at last, except for the ongoing thunder of falling seracs—and we got some sleep.

We woke to a beautiful morning, shook the snow off our sleeping bags and out of our boots, and started gearing up for another day. About 100 feet out of camp we found that what had appeared to be more steep snow was about 8 inches of fresh powder over hard ice. Ice so hard and brittle that your ax bounces off; so you hit it again, harder. This time a large “dinner plate” of ice pops out and skitters down the slope, and still your ax isn’t holding. Out came the ropes, pickets, and our pitiful collection of three ice screws (trimmed down from six to save weight). We carried on, simul-climbing when we could, and belaying when we had to. What else was there to do? One of my vivid memories from this climb was belaying the leader out and watching him start to hammer in a picket: “Thwack, thwack, ping . . .” uh, that’s ice, it isn’t going in, “ping,” still not going in, “ping-ping-ping-ping!” It’s not going in even if you really REALLY want it to; but what could I say, I’d done exactly the

same on the previous pitch. Eventually the leader cleared the ice and started putting in a screw, leaning on it as hard as possible— which is very difficult while balancing on front points—to get it to bite into the glasshard ice.

The day wore on, the clouds closed in, it started snowing. We realized we wouldn’t make Camp Schurman, so we’d be camping on the summit. Later, perhaps 7:00 pm, Kurt said the unspeakable, we weren’t going to make the summit, so we had to find a place to bivi. The closest things to bivi sites were the occasional patches where the slope eased off to “only” 45 degrees. With hard ice just inches under the snow, “digging in” wasn’t an option. We continued on.

Near 13,100 feet, around 9:00 pm, in poor visibility and gathering twilight, I was the third man on a pitch. Doug and Kurt above were clearly not happy, talking and pointing at something I couldn’t see off in the endless white. Eventually they remembered me, and belayed me up. Then I saw it, a slope of 50 degrees or more of ice heading up to a vertical cliff of ice. The near whiteout made it difficult to judge size and distance, but clearly we had a serious problem.

***

We were on the crest of Liberty Ridge, having just climbed a snow and ice slope on the west side. The east side was rocky and fell away almost vertically, but among the rocks were little pockets that could almost be called ledges. Perhaps 25 feet below us was one such ledge of ice, snow, and rock, about six feet wide. Sloping toward the precipice at about 20 degrees, it seemed to be our best hope for a bivi. We chipped out what rocks we could, tried to shovel in some snow to cover others, and piled up what we could against the rocks along the edge to create some sort of “lip” before the fall.

Having a tent with no floor actually paid off in this place. We secured it to the rocks with stoppers, rope, pickets, and whatever we could make hold, and propped up the interior pole. It was clear pads and sleeping bags would quickly slide away, so I climbed back to the ridge, secured one of our ropes to a large rock, and allowed two ends and a loop to hang down into the tent. These would be our lifelines. We attached ourselves and our packs to one of the lines with prussicks. Our boots went into the packs, and we slid into our wet, frozen sleeping bags fully clothed, hanging from our harnesses. Kurt had managed to heat enough Trail & Timberline

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Kurt Wibbenmeyer (left) and Jim Rickard at the forced bivi on descent.

Photo by Doug Kruesi

water for us each to have a hot cup of tea (but no dinner), and we settled in for what I assumed would be a miserable night.

Much to my surprise, we slept. I awoke hours later, my legs nearly numb from hanging in the harness, and needing badly to pee (an epic struggle I won’t go into). After relieving myself, I released the leg loops on my harness, hung from the waist belt to change the pain, and fell asleep again.

In the morning, the ice above us still looked difficult, but not impossible. The first pitch was mine, and I did a climbing traverse to the left, trying for as much distance as possible before running out of protection. I ended my run screwed to a 45-degree ice slope below large seracs, which gave me something to think about as I belayed the others up: “If that serac were to fall, would it dump off to the left or crush me?” Doug took the next pitch, heading directly to the base of the serac before turning right and climbing along the base of the ice cliff toward a lower section that might provide a route higher. He placed his final screw directly into the vertical face, and could only turn it about halfway in, then hung on it—not very encouraging. He be30

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layed Kurt, and finally me up. As I removed the other screws I was acutely aware that all three of us were now hanging on one poorly embedded ice screw. Kurt got the next pitch, continuing to the “weakness” we had spotted, then climbing a short section of 65- or 70-degree ice to reach the next layer. There he paused and said, “I think this is as far as I go.” No one said a word.

After a few minutes he said, “Well, maybe I’ll go a little farther,” and he continued on.

When I was belayed up, I found the others clinging to 50-degree plus ice below yet another cliff. Oh goody, my turn—at least it was only eight feet of dead vertical. Pulling myself gracelessly over the lip brought a brief moment of relief, until I realized that just below me to the right was the edge of the serac, the full height of which we had been working our way through all morning.

A fall here would be bad. My belayer chose that moment to say something about how much rope I had left, which I really didn’t hear, but replied with a long string of feardriven profanities. Finally getting a hold of myself, I reminded myself it was my turn, I had a job to do, and I continued up, placing my remaining screws. Kurt led another

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ice pitch as the slope eased slightly; then Doug—who had been longing for “steep snow”, rather than ice—saw his chance.

Fifty feet into his lead he placed a picket, probably just to prove he could, then took off —never pausing, never looking back.

The first 400 feet above camp had taken us almost four hours; Doug dragged us up the next 400 feet in 40 minutes or less. It felt good to be making progress again. *** At 3:00 in the afternoon, a day later than planned, we finally reached the summit of Liberty Cap. At 14,112 feet, with a 492-foot drop between it and Columbia Crest, it could be considered Washington’s second-highest mountain. On the other hand, from any distance, it’s just a pimple northwest of Rainier’s summit. Having never climbed Rainier before, I had originally hoped to continue to the high point.

But not this time; we wanted nothing more than to get down.

Finally on easy ground, and going downhill, Kurt led a forced march across the mile-wide summit plateau toward the head of Winthrop Glacier. There we hoped

cause we were now a day overdue on even the “pessimistic” one-extra-day schedule we had registered, but because they were bored, there was no on else there to talk to.

Descending the Inter Glacier, we passed two other bored rangers out for a day hike.

Apparently the north side of the park was staffed for the holiday weekend crowds, but with the road still closed, there was nothing for them to do.

We recovered our snowshoes and hiked out the Glacier Basin Trail. Arriving at White River Campground, we found the road had been plowed, or at least an eightfoot wide “trench” down the center of the road had been cleared by the snow blower, just hours before! Not wanting to carry our packs a foot farther than we had to, Doug dropped his, and offered to walk the three miles down the road and get the car—I wasn’t about to argue. Within a couple hundred yards, he came across yet another bored park ranger, who had received a radio call from Camp Schurman that we were headed down, and was waiting to give him a ride. What service! Well worth the $30 registration fee!

Looking back, I’m glad to have climbed Liberty Ridge, but I sure wouldn’t do it again. For anyone considering this route, be aware of how much of a commitment it is; there’s no way down but up, so weather, injuries, and gear failure should be consid-

ered. We had no cell phone service from the ridge, and even if we had, windows of “flying weather” for a potential rescue were few and short. Just to check if I had been exaggerating the difficulties in my mind, I went back to the Internet and found trip reports from the two parties who had climbed the route a week before us. They confirmed our experience:

We made it, but not without great difficulty. . . . It was some of the most terrifying climbing I’ve ever done. At the Thumb there was a constant showcase of avi’s, ice, and rockfall. Summit day was 15 hours of exhausting climbing in deep snow and hard alpine ice with a constant attack of falling ice and rock. . . . we dragged ourselves to the top and reached the summit at 5 PM for a total of 12 hours of climbing from high camp. Thinking we could make it to Camp Schurman, we started down the Emmons in good conditions, but occasional whiteouts and fatigue forced us to stop short of our goal, setting up camp in a crevasse. △ Jim Rickard is a longtime CMC member, as is his mother, Jo Anne Rickard. He recently joined the Colorado Wilderness Families group to introduce his children to the CMC. Jim has climbed more than 270 Colorado ranked peaks, including the hundred highest; along with numerous mountains in the Western States, Alaska, South and Central America, Africa, and Eurasia.△

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to find the climber’s trail for the popular Emmons-Winthrop route, and follow it for an easy cruise down to Camp Schurman. Alas, it was not to be; with the road closed, no one had climbed the route, and there was no trace of a trail. We had clear skies and sun above, but a solid cloud deck below at about 12,000 feet. Kurt, who had climbed the Emmons-Winthrop route before, led us down through crevasses and seracs, and even managed to point out Camp Schurman during a momentary clearing.

But once we entered the clouds, we were in a full whiteout. We continued descending several hundred feet, carefully probing each step to avoid stepping in a crevasse or off a cliff. Eventually, about 7:00 pm, our luck ran out; we were completely “cliffed-out” in a whiteout, with no options left but to reclimb our track.

We resigned ourselves to another unplanned bivi. Prior to this trip, I had spent a total of two unplanned nights out in my entire life; this trip alone added two more.

We climbed back to a relatively flat spot and began probing—sure enough, we were standing atop a crevasse. We moved up a few feet, where it wasn’t flat, and began digging in. At least it was snow on this side of the mountain, rather than ice, and, with a fair amount of effort, we were able to carve out a tent site. We even melted snow and made dinner. As the sun set, there was a brief period of clearing, and we were able to make a plan, doing our best to memorize our tentative route in case whiteout conditions returned in the morning.

Sure enough, they did. We awoke, ate, and packed in the clouds. I thought I had some feel for the route we had plotted out the night before, and offered to lead. Being “that kind” of trip, the morning’s first obstacle was just above camp: A crevasse spanned by a very marginal covering of snow had been easy enough to slip across while descending the evening before, but placing axes and kicking steps into that thin skim of snow in order to climb back up got the adrenaline going. Some slow travel, carefully probing and stepping into the great white void, a couple sketchy snow bridges, and we were headed down again. The weather didn’t improve, and at one point we just sat, ate, drank, and stared into the whiteness for 15 minutes hoping to see . . . something. Nevertheless, without further mishap, we three tired climbers trudged down to the ranger cabin at Camp Schurman.

They were glad to see us, not only be-

Jim Rickard pauses while descending into the clouds. Photo by Doug Kruesi

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A True Mountaineer Ken Nolan and His Climbing Exploits Uncompahgre Peak, as seen from Wetterhorn Peak.

Photo by Ken Nolan

By Kent Groninger

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n November 3, Ken Nolan was awarded the CMC’s 2012 Ellingwood Golden Ice Axe Award at the Boulder annual dinner. This is the highest and only award that the CMC gives for mountaineering excellence. It is given to the recipient for: 1) Reflecting the CMC’s climbing ethics; 2) Demonstrating and teaching strong climbing skills; and 3) Pushing the boundaries of climbing accomplishments in Colorado and around the world. Please pay heed to the phrase “pushing the boundaries”, because Ken Nolan’s accomplishments epitomize this criterion.

Of all places for a mountaineer to be from, 32

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Ken was born in New York City, on October 17, 1947. While living in New York in the early 1970s he became an “Adirondack 46er” by climbing all the Adirondack peaks above 4,000 feet. Those who have climbed in the Northeast can attest that although these peaks may sound puny, their ascents have elevation gains comparable to our 14ers. In any case, from an early age Ken was “bitten by the bagger bug.”

In 1977, Ken hiked the 2,100-mile Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine; though he actually missed the last few miles due to a raging fire.

In 1978, Ken moved to Colorado, and

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climbed Longs Peak, his first 14er. Soon after he joined the Colorado Mountain Club as a lifetime member and took the Boulder Mountaineer School (BMS). For a few years following graduation he assisted in teaching BMS. It was during this period that I first got to know Ken when he asked me to help teach the annual “snow structures” training. On a winter weekend, we would go to a well-known, huge snowdrift that would invariably accumulate at the base of Mount Audubon in the Indian Peaks Wilderness and show members how to dig their own snow caves or how to build igloos. They would then spend the night in

their creations.

In the decades of the 1980s and 1990s, in addition to his domestic ascents, Ken participated in a number of international expeditions. These trips took him to 18 countries—from Tibet to Chile and from Mexico to Kyrgyzstan.

For the record, Ken had incredibly close calls on two of his foreign trips. The first was in 1982 in the Canadian Yukon. His seven-member group, primarily from Boulder, was attempting a new, difficult route on the north side of Mount Logan, at nearly 20,000’, the highest peak in Canada. His team was hunkered down in camp, about two-thirds the way up the mountain, on a stormy, nasty day. It had been snowing heavily for over 30 hours. Ken had crawled out of his tent to relieve himself dressed only in his long underwear and down booties, when entirely without warning there came a gigantic avalanche that swept him and his tent mate, Jim, several hundred feet down the mountain. Tumbling, yet frantically swimming to avoid being buried, he and Jim finally came to rest just a few feet above a precipitous cliff and certain death. He and Jim labored (again, in down booties) back up the slope to witness the damage. Their camp was totally obliterated. By some miracle, while searching the completely changed landscape, they stepped on the head of one of their buried teammates, still in his collapsed VE-24 tent, and dug out another teammate as well. The three other members of the expedition perished, including Franz Mohling, a physics professor at the University of Colorado and a former director of our Boulder Mountaineering School.

For average climbing blokes, the Logan catastrophe might just put one off one’s game. But Ken kept climbing. Eight years later he experienced another incredibly close call. Ken and his good friend and climbing partner, Jean Aschenbrenner, were climbing on Peak Lenin in the Soviet Pamirs. For those who are not familiar, the Pamirs are near where China, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan all come together. The former Soviet Union’s four peaks over 7,000 meters are in this area.

While they were away, my wife, Cathleen, heard on National Public Radio a snippet that a major mountain climbing accident had occurred in the USSR. Very few details were given and we were quite concerned. A few hours later we learned that many climbers had died. I said to Cathleen, “The only place in the Soviet Union where a large number could be affected would be in the Pamirs, where the Soviets run the annual International Mountaineering Camp (IMC).” I was familiar with the area because, four years earlier, as part of the same IMC, I had climbed nearby Pik Kommunizma—at 24,590’, then the USSR’s highest point. Over the next couple of days, as information ever so slowly and ever so painfully came out, it continued to home right in on Jean and Ken. Cathleen and I became convinced that we had lost our friends. When all the details were finally known, it became apparent that a major avalanche had wiped out Camp I on Peak Lenin.

This event was, by far, the deadliest mountaineering accident in history. Forty-three climbers were killed, only two climbers at the camp survived, and only two of the 43 bodies were ever found.

Ken and Jean were supposed to be at Camp I that day, but miraculously, they were a day behind schedule because the helicopter that was scheduled to transport them to Advanced Base Camp was grounded by bad weather. *** Let’s return now to Ken’s Colorado climbing, and safer tales. It would be easy to regale you with the highlights of Ken’s astounding

climbing resume in our Colorado mountains. Superlatives, however, are not needed. Like Ripley’s Believe It or Not, the facts simply speak for themselves.

■ In 1984, Ken completed the 14ers. (In this same year he climbed Aconcagua—the highest point in the Western and Southern Hemispheres.)

■ Three years later, he completed the Centennials.

■ By 1988, he had summited the highest 200 peaks.

■ Two years later, he had finished the 300 highest peaks in Colorado.

■ In 1992, Ken had reached the top of the 400, the 500, and the 600 highest peaks, and everything above 13,000 feet.

■ The beat goes on. In 2003, he completed the 12ers.

■ Two years ago, Ken finished the 11ers (i.e., the 1,781 peaks above 1,000 feet).

■ At the time of this publication he has climbed every peak in Colorado above 10,957 feet! He’s 37 percent of the way towards knocking off the 10ers (while claiming no interest in those forested bumps!)

■ We must add to these highlights that he has also climbed all 126 named peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Obviously Ken is a prolific climber, but he is also a prolific writer. With encyclopedic knowledge, he keeps meticulous records of routes and approaches. He is respected as an elder statesman on Internet Web sites, where his detailed, and witty, trip reports are sources of information and inspiration for many mountaineers. He is also an accomplished photographer. The increased difficulty of climbing peaks in the winter compensates with a special beauty that is evident in Ken’s many photographs.

▲ In addition to being an accomplished climber, Ken Nolan is also a talented photographer. Here, he captures Challenger Point, Kit Carson Peak, and Columbia Point during winter. Photo by Ken Nolan

This could be the end of an incredible story of achievement . . . but not so fast. Several years ago Ken moved to Buena Vista to be nearer the centroid of Colorado’s high peaks. Because of the distance we hadn’t seen Ken in a few years. (I guess he was busy!)

By chance, in the Spring of 2012, Ken showed up at a talk at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder that I was also attending. Our eyes met from across the room, and we gathered at the center aisle for a big hug. I expected Ken to ask, “What’ve you been up to?” or Trail & Timberline

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Ken Nolan’s progress toward climbing all 54 Fourteeners in each of the 12 months.

Kent Groninger is a longtime member of the Boulder Group. He was the 2011 recipient of the Ellingwood Award.

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Ken Nolan at the top of the 23,218-foot Mount Kun, in India. Photo courtesy Ken Nolan.

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“How’s your health?” or “How’s Cathleen?”

But no. I swear. Talk about compulsive! The first thing out of his mouth was, “Have I got a project for you—the Grid.” With my vapid, blank stare, it was clear to Ken that I had no idea what he was talking about. Ken then proceeded to enlighten me.

For the uninformed, the image to the right shows the fundamentals of the grid.

As shown here, across the top, in descending height from left to right, are the 54 fourteen-thousand-foot peaks that the CMC recognizes as 14ers. The rows are the 12 months of the year. The object of this obscure game is to climb each of the 14ers in every calendar month, in other words “fill in” the cells, all 648 of them!

The inset shows how Ken is doing on the grid. He has completed the red cells. He has climbed 37 of the 14ers, at least once, in each and every month of the year. All told, he has filled in over 80 percent of the cells.

Rheumatoid and osteoarthritis and surgery to fuse some vertebrae are taking a toll on a well-worn body, and Ken is realistic that he’ll be unable to finish the grid. But his life is being in the mountains, in all seasons. His record is unprecedented, no matter the final tally.

In summary, it is very safe to say that there is no organism on the face of the earth—and in this we could include mountain goats, ravens, as well as humans (living or dead)—that has been on more high peaks in the State of Colorado than the 2012 Ellingwood Golden Ice Axe awardee.

This honor is undeniably overdue, but it is entirely fitting that it was awarded in the year of the 100th anniversary of the Colorado Mountain Club. At the Boulder Group’s November dinner Ken received his Ellingwood certificate, signed by Alice White, the President of the Colorado Mountain Club, and his attractive gold pin, with “Ellingwood” engraved on the ice axe shaft. We know he wears his pin with much-deserved pride. Thank you, Ken, for being an inspiration to us all. △

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Al Ossinger presents the Carl Blaurock Silver Piton Award to Gudy Gaskill, a CMC member for more than 60 years and Mother of The Colorado Trail. Photo by Jim Petersen.

Gudy Gaskill Honored with 2012 Blaurock Award On November 11, at the Denver Group’s annual dinner, Gudy Gaskill was awarded the 2012 Carl Blaurock Silver Piton Award. The award is presented to CMC members who have exhibited tremendous leadership and service over the years, dedicating a considerable amount of effort to CMC activities, which have resulted in meaningful improvements to the club. Gaskill, who was featured in the Fall 2011 Issue of Trail & Timberline, has been a CMC member since 1952. Her many accomplishments with the CMC include being the first woman president of the club; sponsoring the Denver Juniors for nearly 20 years; serving as chairperson of several committees; and leading In-state Outings and many trips, both abroad and in the U.S. She is also the “Mother of the Colorado Trail”, having dedicated four decades of her life to the most beautiful “long trail” in the world. In 2002, she was inducted into the Colorado Women’s Hall of Fame.

EvErEst 50 YEars LatEr

A Turning PoinT for ouTdoor AdvenTure And for Climbing

By Phil Powers, Executive Director, The American Alpine Club

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Yet as I talk with Hornbein today, he refuses to let their ascent be seen in a vacuum.

Hornbein reminds me that it was the work of many, not merely of two, that placed them on the top by a new route and that got them safely down the other side. He points to the leader Norman Dyhrenfurth’s “dream and tenacity to make it all happen” as “perhaps the greatest achievement.” He also feels that the West Ridge story must be told within the context of the larger expedition. The team’s primary goal had been to make the first American ascent of the mountain. If Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu hadn’t successfully summited via the established Southeast Ridge on May 1, the other members might not have been able to shift their focus to the more-uncertain West Ridge.

Hornbein also highlights the positive energy of Barry Corbet, Al Auten, and Dick Emerson, who exerted tremendous effort in helping him and Unsoeld position themselves for the summit bid. On the same day that Hornbein and Unsoeld reached the top by the West Ridge, Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad had already summited by

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n May 22, 1963, two men stood atop Mount Everest. As part of an American expedition, Dr. Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld had just made the first ascent of the difficult West Ridge. They were about to descend the Southeast Ridge, completing the first traverse of our world’s highest peak. Through the lens of today’s emphasis on individual achievement, it’s easy to see this climb as an amazing feat by two special men. Masters of their craft and strong, they experienced that rare, magical confluence of mountain conditions, personal readiness, and deep mutual trust that breeds extraordinary confidence.

the Southeast Ridge. Thus, when night fell soon after Hornbein and Unsoeld began the descent, they could follow Bishop and Jerstad’s shouts, joining them at their bivouac. The next day, Girmi Dorje and Dave Dingman met the group above Camp VI and escorted them down the mountain. In the climbers’ then-vulnerable state, their teammates’ presence and emotional support may well have meant the difference between survival and tragedy.

Composed of guides and teachers, doctors and cameramen, the entire 1963 Everest expedition inspired a generation of American youth to get outside. The members were regular people who told their adventure to millions with Bishop’s photos, Dyhrenfurth’s film, and Hornbein’s words.

Many great climbers remember the 1963 National Geographic cover and feature article—or Hornbein’s subsequent book The West Ridge—as the start of their own lifetime of adventure.

The expedition broke ground in science as well. Experiments of all kinds from geographical and meteorological to studies of human performance at altitude and under

Dr. Tom Hornbein, pictured here speaking about 2013 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductee and Swiss climber Norman Dyhrenfurth, joined Willi Unsoeld as the first climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest via the West Ridge.

Dyhrenfurth led the first American expedition to Everest. Photo by Craig Hoffman.

stress were performed. Notably, the stress studies informed NASA’s efforts to put a man on the moon.

For those of us who enjoy the mountain world, this was a turning point for outdoor adventure and for climbing. Seeking the heights became something to which all could aspire. On the heels of those Americans on Everest, the rest of us followed. In the years since, the Wilderness Act was passed, retail sales to climbers grew through companies such as REI, and families such as the climbing Smiths of Colorado got into the act of climbing mountains.

Thousands have climbed Everest since 1963. Until the early 1990s, alpinists attempted a wide diversity of routes, looking for harder lines or simpler styles. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reached the summit without supplemental oxygen in 1978. But in 1985—the year that David Breashears guided Dick Bass to the top— there began an inexorable march away from new or difficult routes and from “fair means” ascents without bottled oxygen. Since 2000, the vast majority of expeditions have concentrated on getting paying clients up the Trail & Timberline

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easier North or Southeast ridges.

Each year, the Everest situation comes under greater scrutiny, with new stories of crowds and deaths and with new allegations of climbers lacking compassion for each other. View Ralf Dujmovits’ photo of the line of people moving up the Lhotse Face, in the May 30, 2012, edition of The Guardian, or dig into David Breashears’ amazing, 3.8 billion-pixel image (available at http:// www.npr.org/2012/12/20/167621313/abillion-pixel-tour-of-mount-everest) that exposes the hundreds of tents in Base Camp if you want a glimpse of what the mountain has become.

This infrastructure is moving to other 8,000-meter peaks. Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and now even mountains such as K2 are guided by teams reliant on supplemental oxygen, fixed lines, and high altitude porters. Each person’s choice of style is his or her own, a decision that has to do with highly personal variables. Regardless of how we feel about the use of various aids, the people who stand atop these peaks still take each step themselves. We must be clear, however, that individual style choices should not lead to damage to the mountain or harm to others—including to potential rescuers. We all need to learn to care more deeply for the mountain environment and a lot more deeply for each other.

Despite what we see in the mainstream media, talented climbers continue to break extraordinary ground each year, soloing hard routes in Yosemite, free climbing new lines in Patagonia, and forging bold new creations on 6,000- and 7,000-meter peaks in the Himalaya. That groundbreaking attitude will be back on the world’s highest mountains one day soon. Some choose to climb, as Messner says, “on piste.” Others will pioneer harder, faster, and freer ascents.

There is room for both.

Whether we aspire to repeat easy routes or to dream bigger, it’s worth recalling the special combination of ability, drive, innovation, and teamwork that allowed Hornbein and Unsoeld to push their individual limits on the world’s highest peak. They inspired greater aspirations in all of us.

After years during which Everest was dominated by climbers who generally followed a short list of routes pioneered decades ago, I understand that next summer at least three teams will venture to Everest with new routes in their sights.

On Saturday, April 6, the Colorado Mountain Club and the American Alpine

The Everest Panel at the 2013 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Gala and Induction Ceremony. From left to right: Jake Norton (moderator), Al Auten, Dick Pownall, Dave Dingman, and Tom Hornbein. Photo by Craig Hoffman.

2013 inductee Peter Metcalf speaks during the Gala. Metcalf is the co-founder and CEO of Black Diamond Equipment and was one of the pioneer alpinists in Alaska during the 1970s and early 1980s.

Photo by Craig Hoffman.

Club celebrated heroes from 1963 at the annual Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Gala to support our Mountaineering Museum. Al Auten, Dave Dingman, Tom Horbein, and Dick Pownall graced the stage for an intimate conversation. Each of the men was soft spoken and humble, crediting others or the entire team for their success.

Dick Pownall’s words were perhaps the most moving. He was climbing with Jake Breitenbach early in the trip when a serac collapsed and killed Jake instantly. “You didn’t have time to do anything,” said Pownall, “It’s like being in a car accident or an explosion.”

Pownall shared the effect Breitenbach’s death has had on him by admitting that “this is the first time I’ve talked about it aside from with a few close friends. I guess

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50 years later, it’s time. It’s been in my mind every morning after that. You wonder if it’s worth the risk.”

It is a reasonable wonder. And, honestly, a testament to the team and its leader, Dyhrenfurth, that they pressed on in the face of such tragedy, to accomplish so much. △

2013 HaLL of MountainEEring ExcELLEncE inductEEs

■ Nick Clinch ■ Barry Corbet ■ Norman Dyhrenfurth ■ Jeff Lowe ■ Peter Metcalf

Lion Gulch Trail: The Best Estes Park Hikes is the most recent addition to the Colorado Mountain Club Press’ “pack guide” series. Lion Gulch Trail, one of the 20 hikes included in the book, is a moderately difficult trail that offers an exciting view of two worlds—the natural and the historical. After traversing 3.1 miles, mostly uphill, from the trailhead, you’ll arrive at the Homestead Meadows. This is the world of hardy pioneers who worked the land in order to perfect their claim to a piece of the beautiful high country.

Lion Gulch Trail is extremely popular and attracts a blend of CMCers and other hikers, equestrians, and mountain bikers.

While pedestrians have the right of way over bikes, it’s often easier to step aside as they go whooshing by you. Dogs are also welcome on the trail; though there are many sound reasons to keep them leashed.

As often as not, the soft dirt of the meadows area reveals that mountain lions also favor this trail, which, after all, is named in their honor. (Refer to “keeping your dog leashed” above.)

My personal experience with Lion Gulch Trail began just about five years ago and with another outdoor organization I belong to. Circumstances had placed me at the trailhead—lacing my boots and preening just a bit in my spiffy uniform. There were four of us that day, members of the Poudre Wilderness Volunteers, all anxious to begin the day’s micro adventure.

As we began hiking, the conversation seemed a bit loopy: “Just to be clear, you’re the mentor, and we’re the mentees, correct? And you’ve been in the program only since last year?”

This was already a case study in rhetorical questions, but I jumped in anyway.

“Yep,” I said trying to sound confident, “yep, to both.”

I knew what was coming next: “And you’ve never hiked this trail before? And you know I’ve been on it lots of times?”

These double questions were a bit disconcerting, but I went along: “Yep”, and

A Window to the Past

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By John Gascoyne

Lion Gulch Trail is a moderate 6.2-mile round-trip hike, with an elevation gain of approximately 1,200 feet. Pictured here are Meadows in the Homestead area. Photo by John Gascoyne

“yep”, once more.”

Within a few minutes, however, we were able to negotiate our way to the same page—a mentor hike was about much more than not getting lost in the woods. It was about learning a good many protocols and activities—meeting and greeting the recreating public, being eyes and ears for the Canyon Lakes District Rangers, keeping the trail trash and branch free—those kinds of activities.

It was grudgingly conceded that I could continue referring to myself as the mentor.

We had a great hike, we all learned a bit, and I’ve hiked the trail many times since.

I can’t think of any bad hikes in northern Colorado, but some deserve top billing; for me this one works.

Don’t be confused by the signage at the trailhead—it spells the name as both Lion Gulch and Lyon Gulch. True, the trailhead is at mile marker 8, on U.S. 36, about 12 miles northwest of the town of Lyons; maintain a mental image of large, snarling mountain lions, however, and you won’t go wrong with the name.

If you’re heading for the trailhead from Fort Collins or Loveland, take Hwy 34 toward Estes Park and turn left on Mall Road, at the east end of Lake Estes. Drive a short mile to Hwy 36, turn left, and proceed about 6.0 miles to mile marker 8, on the right-hand side. From Estes Park, just skirt the south side of Lake Estes and stay on Hwy 36.

Especially at the beginning, the trail takes you more down than up. After that, it

is mostly uphill—gradual enough, however, for most hikers. The beginning elevation is a bit over 7,300 feet and you’ll gain about 1,200 feet by the time you arrive at the fairly level meadows area.

The hike to the meadows is never boring: the foliage is fairly lush and there are three rustic footbridges and a total of about 10 stream crossings. At some of these, you get to choose between skipping across the rocks or testing yourself on some possibly slippery logs spanning the stream.

Getting lost on the trail is not an option.

Until the terrain flattens out at the top, there are no side trails to consider. Soon after crossing the second bridge, however, the trail splits into a hiking portion, to the left, and an equestrian option to the right.

Just for variety, I’ll usually take one of these fairly short paths on the way out and the other on the way back.

When the landscape finally flattens out, watch for a sign on the left, which includes information on the Homestead Act and Trail & Timberline

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she moved to Lyons, more than 15 years later. The only money available to Sarah was that derived from selling cream and eggs.

She would have had to hike the three miles to the highway to do this.

To really enjoy the Lion Gulch Trail, plan to explore it, and the adjacent homestead sites, more than once and in more than one season. To return to the trailhead, simply retrace your steps. As suggested, getting lost on this trail would take serious focus.△ Fort Collins Group member John Gascoyne has been developing and editing hiking guides for the Colorado Mountain Club since 2007. He is also a member of the CMC Press Advisory Board.

John wanted to start the present millennium fresh and so retired from his law practice on January 1, 2000. He is an avid hiker and biker and an ardent environmental activist.

John’s daughter, Shawn, and her family live in Portland, Oregon

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the early pioneers of the area. This, more or less, marks the 3.1 miles we’ve been talking about. From here, you have a number of options for further hiking and exploration.

Although the landscape is beautiful on top, chances are that your imagination will have you considering the difficult lives of the folks who homesteaded in the area.

There are the remnants of eight homesteads in this area, but plan for some serious additional hiking to see many of them. Four of the homestead sites are generally northwest of the informational sign and four of them are mostly south on a trail that starts just beyond the sign.

The closest homestead to you is that of English immigrant Sarah Walker who single-handedly worked the claim to her land. Her earlier history is a bit fuzzy—she either lost her entire family or, after separating from her husband, sought a life in the mountains. In any event, Sarah’s mountain adventure began in 1908 and lasted until

On the Lion Gulch Trail.

Photo by John Gascoyne.

Hike Details Lion Gulch Trail Maps: Trails Illustrated, Cache La Poudre/Big Thompson, Number 101; USGS, Panorama Peak, 7.5 minute Elevation Gain: 1,200 Feet (approx.)

Rating: Moderate

Round-Trip Distance: 6.2 miles Round-Trip Time: 3.5 hours Relics from the homesteading era. Photo by John Gascoyne

Nearest Landmark: U.S. 36, mile marker 8

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The Best Estes Park Hikes The newest release in CMC Press’s best-selling pack guide series, The Best Estes Park Hikes includes 20 of the best hikes within an hour or so drive of Estes Park. Offering detailed directions and full-color photos and maps to help you find your way, this 4 x 7 paperback easily fits in your pack or back pocket. Project manager Ward Luthi and volunteers from the Shining Mountains Group have hiked all of the routes in this pack guide. From the strenuous Signal Mountain Trail, with an elevation gain of 3,869 feet, to the breathtaking views along the more moderate Twin Sisters Trail, to the gently meandering paved path around Lake Estes, the Estes Park area offers a variety of hikes for all ages and abilities.

Available Now! To order, visit our online store at http://www.cmc.org/Store.aspx or call 303-279-3080.

108 pages, 4 x 7, 45 color photographs, 21 maps, paperback, $12.95, ISBN 978-1-937052-04-1.

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BEavEr BrooK TraiL A Lasting Legacy for CMC Volunteers

By Woody Smith

I

n 1912, when the Colorado Mountain Club was new, the Denver Mountain Parks were also taking shape in the foothills west of Golden. Since these mountains were essentially a training ground for the young CMC, it was only natural the club would join forces with the new Denver Mountain Parks Commission to help protect them.

Over the years CMC members have volunteered countless hours on dozens of projects in the Mountain Parks, but few are better known or longer lasting than the Beaver Brook Trail on Lookout Mountain. Wrote Lucretia Vaile in 1922:

Constructed in stages from 1917 to 1919, the Beaver Brook Trail snakes west over the foothills from Windy Saddle on the Lariat Loop Road, 8 ½ miles to a parking area just west of Bald Mountain (7,988 feet), near the Chief Hosa exit on I-70. In the days before the Mountain Parks, Beaver Brook was a Colorado &

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Beaver Brook trail . . . was suggested by C.M.C. member [George] Barnard, routed by C.M.C. geographers, and obtained by C.M.C. (especially Brooks’) persistence. Our president [Henry] Brooks was a member of the Denver Parks Board at the time and he fought our fight and that of the hiking public to good effect. With the club the Beaver Brook route is an old favorite, our first trip over it being on December 1, 1912. But the trail as it exists today is traveled by many people who have no connection with us and who know it only as one more credit to the city of Denver. (T&T, April 1922)

CMC members pose for a photo along Clear Creek. Courtesy Colorado Mountain Club Archives

Southern Railroad stop about seven miles up Clear Creek Canyon.

A trail, dating at least to the 1880s, climbed up Beaver Brook from its junction with Clear Creek. Once the Mountain Parks were established, it was common for tourists to take the train to the Beaver Brook stop and hike up to Chief Hosa Lodge for an overnight stay.

But with the construction of the Lariat Loop or Lookout Mountain Road (1913), and its extension to Genesee Park (1914), it soon became apparent that Mountain Park visitors were mostly well-todo automobile owners, rather than the less well-off for whom the parks were intended for also.

On April 18, 1917, CMC President Henry Brooks and Vice-president George Barnard attended a meeting of the Denver Mountain Parks Commission. According to the commission minutes: Mr. Barnard spoke at length on the desirability of building more trails in the Mountain Parks region. He then introduced Mr. Burhans of the Tourist and Publicity Bureau who stated that he believed demand was growing stronger each year for more mountain trails within easy reach of Denver, and that he was of the opinion that this medium would, in a measure, solve the problem of keeping the tourist in Denver longer.

Mr. Brooks . . . stated that the Club had no funds to build trails but that he and the members of the Club would assist the Mountain Parks Commission in any other way possible.

CMC members pictured on December 1, 1912, during the club’s first trip along Beaver Brook Trail. Courtesy Colorado Mountain Club Archives

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Alice Hale wrote what came next: The arrangement was made that the trail was to be routed and built by the Colorado Mountain Club—the city to furnish labor and money. When actual work on the trail began it took time and thought to make it not merely a way to get through the hills, but to make it the best way, with the finest views, with the spring just where it is needed, and charming dips into the steep cool ravines coming in sharp contrast to the long stretches on the very edge of the hills. . . . It takes but a few words to tell of the realization of their [Brooks’ and Barnard’s] plans, and not everyone knows of the tireless effort it actually took to put it over and to get the first appropriation of $2,000.00 from the city. Countless delays and difficulties of all sorts were encountered, but finally the orders went through.

The railroad company heartily cooperated with the plans as laid out, and arranged to have a station platform where trains could stop. And by the way, this “station” of Beaver Brook is a spot that

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was selected, back in the eighties, by some enterprising concern as a picnic ground, and a little pavilion was built where the young people of those days had their moonlight parties. (T&T, May 1926).

Wrote Lucretia Vaile: “In announcing the municipal trail President Brooks spoke of it as ‘shady practically all the way,’ and one of my friends believes to this day that Mr. Brooks hikes with an open umbrella.”

As of August 15, 1917, the cost of building the first section of the Beaver Brook and Lookout Mountain trails was $996.50.

The cost of Buffalo Bill’s grave on Lookout Mountain, installed that same year, was a mere $157.64. The flag pole cost $76.13.

In May 1918, Trail & Timberline reported on the trail’s progress:

Several miles of good foot trail were completed last fall, and it will pay the tramper to go out to Beaver Brook and cover that part which is finished. For those who have never walked over these hills there is a happy surprise in store.

Views from Bald Mountain are unusually fine, and the intimate scenery of forest and brook along the trail is delight-

ful. Go out and see for yourself and then tell others. Spring friends, flowers, birds, and maybe a doe or fawn, will be there to welcome you.

Within a few years the Beaver Brook Trail was beginning to see as much use as the new roads. Henry Brooks explained why:

There is more health, information and enjoyment packed away in an hour of the winding, shady trail than in a halfday on the automobile roads. The intimate and friendly trail that unfolds gradually in the depths of some cool ravine, or skirts the summit of a cliff, leads its human friend away from everyday cares, mentally as well as physically.

It quiets the nerves, invites the mind to new subjects of interest, entices one into meditation and rest (Denver Municipal Facts, 3/1919).

*** Thanks to Janice Prater, James Rogers, J. Wendel Cox, Bruce Hanson, Noel Kalenian, and Erin Edwards of the Denver Public Library Western History Department.

End of the Trail Barbara Colligan ▶1940–2013

By Molly Lu Castleberry

A former member of the Colorado Mountain Club, Barbara Joan Colligan passed away unexpectedly in February. A memorial service was held at the Spirit of Christ Catholic Community in Arvada, March 2. She was active in the Denver Group in the 1970s and 1980s and some longtime CMC members might remember her as Barbara Whitecross.

Born in New Jersey, on April 27, 1940, Barbara’s love of the mountains, skiing, hiking, and the music of John Denver brought her to Colorado after her divorce. Barbara was a longtime employee in the laboratory at the Metro Wastewater Reclamation District and enjoyed being a lifelong learner, frequently taking college classes.

Although health conditions prevented her from being a member in recent years, her love of the mountains, the CMC, and memories of the friends she made in the club remained. She is survived by her brother, Dennis Colligan.

Kurt Gerstle ▶1923–2013 Longtime CMC member Kurt Gerstle passed away in Boulder February 20. Born in Munich, Germany, on November 11, 1923, he moved to San Francisco with his family at the age of 14. After

graduating from high school and spending a couple of years as an engineering draftsman, he was drafted into the U.S. Army, where he earned a Bronze Star for his service at the Battle of the Bulge.

After the war, he returned to San Francisco, where he earned both his BS and MS degrees in Civil Engineering from the University of California–Berkeley.

In 1951, he married Eva Holland-Cunz, and the couple moved to Boulder the following year when Kurt accepted a faculty position at the University of Colorado. At CU, he earned the university’s first PhD in Civil Engineering and went on to receive Fulbright and Humboldt Fellowships during his 40-year teaching career. Shortly after he arrived in Boulder, Kurt joined the Colorado Mountain Club. He became a lifelong advocate for preserving open space in the Boulder area, and, along with CMC members such as Al Bartlett, he played an important role in helping to bring about the Blue Line Amendment, which helped to preserve much of Boulder’s mountainside from development. Kurt loved spending time in the hills and mountains around Boulder, where he often led hikes and ski tours for family, friends, colleagues, and students alike.

Kurt is survived by his brother Peter of San Francisco; his daughter, Andrea of Boulder; his sons, John and George of Boulder, and Walter of Albuquerque, New Mexico; and five grandchildren.

He was preceded in death by his wife, Eva, and his brothers, Rudy and Harry.

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CMC Adventure Travel For your benefit and enjoyment, the following trips have been reviewed and approved by the Adventure Travel Committee and are officially sanctioned by the Colorado Mountain Club.

Visit www.cmc.org/AdventureTravel for more detailed itineraries and registration forms.

Appalachian Trail Slackpack, Roan Highlands, Tennessee June 16–23, 2013 $825 (8 participants) Hike a section of the grand-daddy of longdistance trails and fall in love with it! The Roan Highlands in Upper East Tennessee are widely regarded as the most scenic part of the entire Appalachian Trail. Backpacker magazine featured it among “The Top 36 Hikes on America’s Classic Trails” in 2008; National Geographic’s Adventure magazine listed it as one of the “50 Best American Adventures” in 2009; and Andrew Skurka considers it one of his top 10 hikes. So sign up and find out where you rank this stretch of trail on your list! All the accolades are for great hiking, stunning views, and incredible wildflowers. The Roan Highlands are home to the longest stretch of grassy “balds” in the entire Appalachian range.

There are more rare and endangered plants here than in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. And in the spring and early summer the wildflowers are simply spectacular. Most notably, you will be hiking through the largest natural rhododendron garden in the world during peak rhododendron blooming time. Our first day is the last day of the local Rhododendron Festival which attracts around 200,000 visitors each year. We will gather at the airport in Charlotte, North Carolina, and travel by van to a hiker hostel in Roan Mountain, Tennessee, where we will stay for the entire trip.

We will hike 65 miles of the Appalachian Trail in five days—in slackpacker fashion.

What this means is that we will be shuttled to a trailhead after breakfast each morning and picked up at another trailhead in the afternoon and shuttled back to the hostel.

We will day hike 12 to 15 miles each day; the terrain is up and down all day long. Due to the nature of the trip, not every partici42

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pant has to hike every day. The expectation is, however, for everybody to intend to participate in all hikes. One sightseeing day is planned with a visit to the Boone, North Carolina, area and Grandfather Mountain State Park, where we will visit the museum, scramble to the top of the mountain, and walk across the Mile High Swinging Bridge. Our hostel is a rustic, open-design cabin with four single beds in a loft and a queen and a king downstairs, separated from the common area by curtain.

The cabin has two full bathrooms. Linens and towels are provided. The innkeepers provide a full breakfast each morning and sack lunches on days two through seven.

We will cook our own dinners at night.

Every participant is expected to participate in dinner planning, preparation, and clean up. Hiking difficulty will be equivalent to difficult B hikes in Colorado at a moderate pace. Rain is always a possibility in that part of the country and the trail can be wet, slick, rocky, and full of roots. A good sense of balance is necessary to have a good time.

The trip fee includes transportation from the airport in Charlotte to the hostel and back, as well as all lodging, transportation, entry fees, seven dinners, seven breakfasts, and six sack lunches during the trip. We will travel in a 12-passenger rental van. Travel between Denver and Charlotte is not included in the trip cost. The trip is limited to eight participants. The trip leader has lead hiking, bicycling, and backpacking trips for years and lived and hiked in East Tennessee for 12 years. Your leader is very knowledgeable about the area, its culture, history, flora and fauna, and is a NOLS WMI certified Wilderness First Responder. Need more information? E-mail Chris at cattanooga@ gmail.com. No phone calls please.

In-State Outing Week 1 Sunday, July 21–Friday, July 26, 2013 CMC Members: $410

Non-CMC Members: $450 In-State Outing Week 2 Sunday, July 28–Friday, August 2, 2013 CMC Members: $410 Non-CMC Members: $450 The 2013 ISO will be staged from Ridgway State Park. Only 15 miles from the town of Ouray, Ridgway’s great outdoors—the “Switzerland of America”—welcomes you!

The park’s beautiful reservoir and swim beach, playground areas, extensive trails, and diverse wildlife offer activities for all types of outdoor enthusiasts. Meals from Sunday dinner through Friday breakfast will be served at the pavilion, a covered, outdoor picnic area. Our fantastic chef, Michelle, will be back again this year! The ISO fee includes meals, evening programs, and tent camping at the Pa-Co-Chu-Puk Campground loop G. Additional lodging is available nearby in Ridgway, although July is busy there! Free CMC hikes (A–D) in the San Juan Mountains will be offered each day and are open to all CMC members.

FAMILIES, PLEASE CALL THE CMC TO REGISTER: 303-279-3080 x 2.

Cancellation Policy: If you need to cancel, send a written request to brendaporter@ cmc.org. If you cancel by May 31, you will receive your payment minus the $50 deposit. After JUNE 1, THERE WILL BE NO REFUNDS. Trip cancelation insurance is recommended in case you may need to cancel after June 1. You can get trip cancellation insurance at http://www.insuremytrip.com/ Attention Members: To get the member price simply go to the members section and log in to the system, then come back to the Adventure Travel page to register and you will be charged the member price.

Wind River Wyoming Llama Trek

August 5–9, 2013 $1,645 (No tickets left) This trip will be a classic Wind River Range Trip, including glacial cirques and many high alpine lakes with plentiful trout fishing. Typical wildlife seen is moose, deer, and elk. We will move camps each day except for one layover day. Participants will carry day packs and llamas will carry all of the camp gear. The guides will do all of the cooking. We will start out at the Worthen Meadow Reservoir trailhead, more specifically the Sheep Bridge trailhead (no reservation permits required for this trip).

Starting at approximately 8,800 feet we will drop down to the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River and follow the Middle Fork Trail to Bill’s Park, an open, meandering, high alpine meadow just below tree-line (10 miles). On day 2 we will hike to the Ice Lake and Deep Creek Lakes area, just below Wind River Peak. We will gain about 1,000 feet of elevation and camp at approximately 10,600 feet, with the maximum elevation at a 10,900 foot pass on the way in, approximately 6 miles. We will stay here for 2 nights. On the layover day we could split up the group, if desired, to take various day hikes of different abilities. Historically, most participants really enjoy our Deep Creek Lakes day hike loop, with some of the best views in the Wind River Range. On day 4 we will hike a relatively short distance of 5 miles, down a few hundred feet and back up a few hundred feet to Pinto Park, a spectacular high alpine park with the “Cirque of the Towers” in full view 7 miles in the backdrop. Short mountain ridge scrambles are available from Pinto Park for even better views. On day 5, we will continue the loop and descend on the Pinto Park Trail, merging back up to the Middle Fork Trail on the Popo Agie River and back to the Sheep Bridge Trail to Worthen Meadow Reservoir, approximately 11 miles (a mostly gradual descent, except the last 2 miles up 700 feet). Total trip length is about 32 miles exclusive of the elective day hikes from camp. You should be in good shape and be able to hike in elevations between 9,000 and 11,000 feet. This is a B-level trip with hiking up to 8 miles per day. We will see the remote Wind River Range and learn how to travel with llama support. We will be able to explore hiking and climbing in this range and feel the wilderness experience. We will be able to fish if desired and find out what fresh fish tastes like. We will experience gla-

cially carved cirques. The per-person cost is $1,645. Price includes all food from lunch on day 1 through lunch on day 5, llamas to carry gear, guides and cooks, camp gear, and tips for guides. Provided at no extra charge are tent, sleeping bag and pad, or you may bring your own. Trip expenses NOT covered are travel to and from Lander and the hotel on the nights before and after the trip.

Register by contacting Carol Kurt at P.O. Box 7977, Aspen, CO 81612, or phone (H)970-925-6648 or (C)970-948-6412, or e-mail kurtskarma@aol.com.

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

August 27–September 2, 2013 $620

Two days of travel and a five-day canoe trip within the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) of the Superior National Forest of northern Minnesota and the Quetico Provincial Park of Ontario, Canada. BWCAW Rules limit the group size to 9, with a maximum of 4 water craft per group. The canoeing portion of the trip will begin and end north of Ely, Minnesota, at Mudro Lake. The entire trip is approximately 33 miles: over 10 lakes, several rivers, and 12 portages (maybe more depending on water levels) over a period of 5 days. For approximately the middle 1/3 of the trip we will be on the waters that are the border between the U.S. and Canada. This area is part of the original “Voyageur’s Route”— these were well-established canoe fur trade routes which ships and larger boats could not reach or travel. Average physical conditioning is required for this trip. In addition to an organizational meeting the leader will arrange for two canoe practice and get acquainted outings. One will be a half-day outing on Chatfield Reservoir and a fullday outing on Lake Dillon. During these outings we will practice loading and unloading canoes, portage methods, and paddling skills. The trip includes the following: round-trip transportation to Ely from the Minneapolis airport, two nights lodging in Ely (before and after the canoe portion of the trip), shuttle to and from Mudro Lake (our entry point into the Boundary Waters), BWCA permits, canoe package in Ely (canoe, paddle, and personal floatation device), individual Duluth Canoe pack (yours for the trip), canoe rental package in Colorado for 1 ½ days (a half day on Chatfield, and

a full day of paddling on Lake Dillon, a celebration dinner after we return from the BWCA, and all tips and gratuities along the way. To obtain the trip application, itinerary, and more details about the trip, please contact the leader, Vern Bass, at 4efs@eazy. net or call (cell) 303-902-2905.

Hiking the White Mountains September 1–September 9, 2013 $940 This trip will take us to the White Mountains, a mountain range covering about a quarter of the state of New Hampshire. We will fly into Boston’s Logan Airport and be greeted by our shuttle to take us to the Highland Center to spend the first night, where accommodations are simple, clean, and comfortable. Evening programs and tours explaining the green technology of the Highland Center will be offered. The Center is on Crawford Notch, a dramatic mountain pass on the southwestern slopes of Mount Washington. The next day starts our travel to the Appalachian huts, the first being Zealand Falls Hut. The hut holds 40 overnight guests and accommodations will be in co-ed bunk rooms. At 2,700 feet in elevation, Zealand Falls Hut is located in Zealand Notch. This hut occupies a choice spot near waterfalls and outstanding views at the eastern edge of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. A popular destination, it is the perfect place to spot moose and other abundant wildlife. The Zealand Trail is relatively short, so there will be the option of taking a hike near the hut in the afternoon. The view from the hut is spectacular, and the roar of the waterfall above a glassy smooth pond is inviting. Galehead Hut is our next destination for two nights. It is located on Garfield Pass, at 3,800 feet, the most remote hut in the New Hampshire chain with spectacular views of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

From the hut it is possible to climb South Twin, a 4,000-foot peak, or hike down to 13 Falls. A hearty breakfast each morning and a delicious dinner after an active day, included in the trip price, will be provided by a hospitable and friendly kitchen crew who live in the huts to ensure a pleasant experience for the guests. Lunches are not included but can be purchased for each day.

Evenings will be social events, exchanging stories with other people from all over the Trail & Timberline

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world who are enjoying the New Hampshire experience. The next day we will take the cog railway to the top of Mount Washington, the highest mountain in the Northeast. Elevations in the White Mountains are certainly not as high as in Colorado but nevertheless challenging and beautiful. In 1869 the world’s first mountain climbing railroad was opened on New Hampshire’s Mount Washington. The beauty of the mountains and the thrill of ascending the Northeast’s highest peak are just as enchanting today as they were then. The cog railway, a National Historic Engineering Landmark, continues to provide a sense of adventure and history as it carries passengers up a 3-mile-long trestle and the steepest railroad tracks in North America to the 6,288-foot summit of Mount Washington. We will take in the spectacular panoramic view, spanning the mountains and valleys of New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont, north into Canada, and east to the Atlantic Ocean. You are in for an unforgettable adventure and magnificent scenery. Descending to Lakes of the Clouds hut we will spend the night in the highest and most popular hut in the chain.

Lakes of the Clouds Hut is located on the southern shoulder of Mount Washington and the hut offers sweeping views, gorgeous sunrises, and sunsets and proximity to rare alpine flowers. On rare occasions it is possible to see the northern lights from the hut.

We will then descend 2,500 feet to our last night before returning to the airport and home. To register for this trip contact leader Betsy Weitkamp, Phone: 303-722-1656 or e-mail: elaw@q.com

British Columbia Coast Mountain Getaway September 8–14, 2013 $3,200 Journey into one of Canada’s best kept secrets: The undiscovered natural paradise of British Columbia’s Cariboo Chilcotin Coast region. Trip includes inspiring alpine hiking in the Coast Mountains; flight from Nimpo Lake to camp; scenic float plane flight over the Monarch ice fields and expansive Coast Mountains; alpine lake canoeing; Grizzly Bear River float tour with a professional local bear guide to watch grizzlies feeding on spawning salmon; explore 10,000-year-old Nuxalt native petroglyphs; alpine flowers 44

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and crystal blue glacial lakes; giant cedar trees; breathtaking waterfalls; drive the famous Heckman Pass, with grades of up to 18%; discover the remote and dramatic Bella Coola Valley; enjoy healthy gourmet meals (day one lunch through day 7 lunch); six nights cozy accommodations in backcountry cabins, lakefront cabins and lodges; scenic flight along the spine of the Coast Mountains from Bella Coola to Vancouver. This is a partially supported trip, sleeping bags will be carried by participants on two hikes, from hut to hut on days two and four. Other hikes will be day hikes, mostly off trail and over uneven ground but led by experienced, personable, and passionate guides. Hiking difficulty is mostly B or C, with off-trail conditions. NOT INCLUDED: Flight to Vancouver, British Columbia, ($545–$630 depending on stops); optional nights in Vancouver depending on flight times; flight to Williams Lake (Estimated $120—guide will assist with booking); travel insurance (recommended); alcoholic beverages if desired; tips. Minimum 6 persons, maximum 12. Call Janet Farrar 303933-3066 or e-mail wildjc@Juno.com.

Sikkim Himalayan Trek October 15–November 5, 2013 $3,220 Gyeljen Sherpa invites you to join him on a trek through exotic Sikkim. Once its own kingdom, tiny Sikkim is now a state of India. Sikkim is home to the third-highest mountain in the world, Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters/28,169 feet), one of the largest mountains in sheer size in the Himalayas. From Delhi, we will take a domestic flight to Bagdogra, then on to the legendary city of Darjeeling, home of His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, and the Tibetan government in exile. One day by jeep will bring us to the beginning of our two-week trek. We will be traveling through the Kanchenjunga Biosphere Reserve, walking in rhododendron forests, camping in small villages, visiting Buddhist monasteries and shrines, traversing high alpine passes, and experiencing breathtaking Himalayan vistas. We will camp beside the sacred lake of Lam Pokhari and cross the high pass of Goecha La, 16,207 feet, the highest point on our route. Along the way we will interact with the local people, getting to know their customs and culture and making new friends.

The minimum number of participants is 8. Not included in the price: International and domestic airfare, travel insurance, personal spending money, and Indian visa fee of $73. Indian visas must be obtained before departing the United States. For more information, please contact Gyeljen Sherpa at alpineadventurel@gmail.com or call Gyeljen at 720-2073-7158.

Everest Trek Nepal November 9–25, 2013 $2,540 Join Pemba Sherpa, a native of the Khumbu region of Nepal, in the Himalayas on this spectacular trek along the foothills of some of the world’s highest peaks! Pemba has been guiding visitors to his homeland since 1986 and will do so again in 2013, taking us into the heart of the world’s majestic Himalayan Mountains. We start our trek with an exhilarating 35-minute scenic flight into the airstrip at Phaplu, a small town in Solukhumbu district. We will trek over gentle paths through agricultural farming land and small Sherpa and Rai settlements. We will then trek into the rarely visited Lumding Valley. Very few Westerners have ever ventured into this completely unspoiled valley!

We will be surrounded by striking scenery as we trek through virgin terrain while marveling at views of Everest and its neighbors.

We will also spend time with Pemba’s family in the small Sherpa village of Sengma and will relax for a couple of days in Nepal’s colorful capital city of Kathmandu. This journey is sure to satisfy your thirst for adventure, let you meet the people and learn the culture of Nepal, as well as bring you in person to some of the best views on Earth!

For more information please call Pemba Sherpa 303-525-6508, or e-mail pemba@ sherpaascent.com.

Cerro de Aconcagua 22,841’ November 25–December 16, 2013 $1,695 (4 to 6 people); $1,550 (7 people) It’s finally here; the first trip since early 2004 to the highest mountain in South America. Aconcagua, in good conditions, is the highest mountain in the world where

one can gain the summit without setting foot on a glacier. However, the altitude and wind can quickly become factors affecting a climb. We’ll be there just before the start of the climbing high season. The trip is led by Steve Bonowski, leader of the 2004 Aconcagua trip as well as numerous Club trips to Kilimanjaro and Mount Elbrus/Russia.

This climb is a formal expedition; moving loads and camps, climbing high and sleeping low, in order to get sufficiently acclimatized. Maximum group size is 8, including the leader. Minimum size is 4, including the leader. The posted trip cost includes all ground transportation and airport transfers; mule transportation of gear from Puente del Inca to Plaza de Mulas base camp and return; lodging in Mendoza (breakfasts, 2 nights—double rooms) and Puente del Inca (3 nights—quad rooms); ½ board in PDI; full board, including dinners, in Mulas when there; ½ board in Confluencia; sanitary services at Confluencia and Mulas; contingency; gratuities; limited leader expenses; CMC fee. Posted cost does not include round-trip airfare to Mendoza; Argentine reciprocity fee (entry fee—$160); Park climbing fee ($340); travel and evacuation insurance; baggage fees; single supplement; food and fuel for use above base camp; dinners and lunches in Mendoza; lunch in PDI; cost of any medical exams or medications; bar tab; souvenirs; snacks; porter services; Internet or satellite phone.

Pre-requisites are recent graduation from a Club high altitude or advanced mountaineering school, or instructors in said schools, and good physical conditioning. Equivalent experience will be considered provided one has experience hiking at 15,000’ or higher. For a trip packet, contact the trip leader at: climbersteveb@gmail.com.No phone calls please

New Zealand Great Walks February 14–March 1, 2014 (Dates may be adjusted based on booking availability for the tracks.) $ 2,260 (No Tickets left) Join the CMC for an unforgettable adventure to hike two of the famous Great Walks in New Zealand—the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. This trip features 7 days of moderate hut-to-hut backpacking in Fiordland National Park on the South Island of New Zealand. These scenic walks

are considered some of the finest tracks in the world. Layover days in Queensland (between tracks) and in Auckland (at the end of the trip) will allow participants to explore additional cultural activities on their own.

If bookings are available, the trip will also include an overnight excursion on Milford Sound. The trip is limited to 11 participants. Final cost may be adjusted based on exchange rates at the time of bookings and 11 participants. Current CMC member trip cost estimate is $2,260. Non-member estimate is $2,328. Final trip dates may be adjusted depending on track bookings.

Current projected dates are February 14 through March 1. Total trip length will not change. Trip fee includes all track booking fees, all ground and water transportation in New Zealand, and all lodging in New Zealand. Not included are airfare, food, and incidentals. To register for this trip contact Patrick McKinley, Phone: 303-973-7387, E-mail: patrickmckinley@hotmail.com

Best of the Grand Canyon—Colorado River Raft and Hike, 2014 April 26–May 8, 2014 CMC members: $4,265 Non-CMC members: $4,390 This unique trip to the Grand Canyon offers participants the opportunity to experience this World Heritage Site on a motorized raft for 188 miles through the best of the canyon, departing from the historic Lee’s Ferry and ending with a helicopter ride from Whitmore Wash and a plane flight back to the start. It is especially ideal for those who would like to hike in areas that can be reached only from the river, and those who have always wanted to experience the canyon but who do not wish to make the 7-mile, 4500’-trek in and out.

Our outfitter, Hatch River Expeditions, has been guiding river trips through the canyon for over 70 years. We will have 4 guides and 20 participants on two 35’ S-rig boats running 30 hp 4stroke outboard engines (fuel efficient and quiet). Each boat holds 18, so for this trip we will have plenty of room.

An average motorized raft trip through the Grand Canyon is for 7 days with short daily hikes. Hatch is adding 5 days to the trip with over 100 possible hikes, depending on the group’s interest and the weather.

They offer us daily-guided hikes at differ-

ent hiking levels, or one may choose to rest in camp. There are several opportunities for point-to-point hikes where we may hike from one drainage to the next and the raft will pick us up later in the day. Register with Leaders: 303-871-0379, blakerosemary@ cs.com.

WHAT IS PROVIDED Hatch provides all meals, snacks, eating utensils, life jackets, tents, camp chairs, and the helicopter and plane rides back to the put-in. A free sleeping kit is available for those who need camp gear—a sleeping bag, pillow, sleeping pad, ground cloth, and waterproof bag. The park entrance fee is included. The cost of the trip also includes all tips and one night (double occupancy) at the Cliff Dweller’s Lodge near the put-in on Saturday (4/26/14). The cost does NOT include: carpooling to and from Lee’s Ferry, any meals other than those on the raft trip, and extra beverages for the raft trip (water, lemonade, and sports drink are provided by Hatch).

TRAINING AND PHYSICAL CONDITIONING REQUIREMENTS For maximum enjoyment, a person may wish to participate in several hikes prior to the trip. The hikes will vary in difficulty in the range of our CMC levels B and C. In general, a couple hiking levels will be available for most days. There is always the option to take the day off and rest in camp. All of our hiking will take place below the altitude of Denver (the river is at about 2,500 feet). Because this is the desert, one must be able to adapt to the heat and cold. Some of the hikes offered will be full day hikes of significant distance and altitude gain. Many hikes follow a social trail or are off trail.

CANCELLATION POLICY FOR PARTICIPANTS • Trip deposit of $500 is payable to the CMC at time of registration.

• $300 of this deposit is non-refundable.

• Final payment is due November 15, 2013.

• For cancellation on or before November 15, 2013, there will be a refund of $200 ($500 less the $300 non-refundable fee).

Any refunds after November 15, 2013, will be made only if a qualified replacement is accepted. Travel insurance is recommended.

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Trail & Timberline