Issuu

The magazine of the Colorado Mountain Club • Number 999 • Summer 2008

Pyramid Peak “DNF” CMC

welcomes new

Executive Director Adventure Travel

Editable maps for on-line Activity Schedule ...and

much more

The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918 Office hours: Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–7:30 p.m. (winter) Mon.–Thurs. 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (summer) Fri. 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Trail & Timberline (ISSN 0041-0756) is published quarterly with supplemental quarterly Activity Schedules by The Colorado Mountain Club 710 10th Street • Suite 200 Golden, Colorado 80401 (303) 279-3080 Periodicals postage is paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; $25 for foreign mailings. Single copies are $5; Activity Schedule editions are $10.00 © 2008 The Colorado Mountain Club POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, #200, Golden, Colorado 80401.

monthly giving to The Colorado Mountain Club Our monthly electronic funds transfer (EFT) provides steady, stable funding for our critical programs. Supporting the CMC beyond your regular dues is easy!

Editor: Assistant Editors: Poetry Education Conservation

Tom Beckwith (beckwt@cmc.org) Jared Smith (poetry@cmc.org) Brenda Porter Clare Bastable

The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to • unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado; • collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation; • stimulate public interest in our mountain area; • encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and • render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region. Deadlines for Trail & Timberline are always on the 10th of the month seven weeks prior to the first day of the month of publication, unless that day falls on a weekend, in which case the deadline is the following Monday.

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The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the SCFD for its continuing support.

Summer 2008

T&T Departments Adventure Travel Annual Report: CMC Financial Statements Colorado Mountain Club Press buying guide News & Events Bill signed that will improve trust of charities Blackett becomes CMC Executive Director CMC Foundation awards grants Colorado Trail Foundation schedules summer seminars Editable maps added to on-line Activity Schedule Heller Joins library staff Homeless benefit from “retired” gear Library Growing New bills protecting quiet recreation signed into law On-line trail maps enhance Activity Schedule Yesteryear: “A Mountain Club by Any Other Name by Woody Smith

36 34 25 13 19 12 12 15 23 14 22 13 12 33

Conservation Access update by Steve Bonowski Byers joins conservation staff

23 21

Education Save the Date for Mountain Fest Youth Education Program Summer Courses

3 38

Recreation Feature: Pyramid Peak “DNF” by David Lein The Gear Guy: A Cautionary Poutpourri by Matt Biscam

16 20

Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum Newsletter Museum Updates John Berghiel Exhibit Preview Upcoming Exhibits

te! da e e th sav

4 6 10

October 17–19 film • food • classes learning & activities for all ages

Cover photo: The Cascade Trail in June. Photo by Donna Kelly.

MountainFest 2008 at the american Mountaineering center in Golden

The museum continues to build upon its successful Grand Opening. With so many positives things to report, let’s begin. The museum played host to an evening event as part of the American Association of Museums National Conference which took place in Denver in late April. With more than 200 guests from the museum and exhibit services fields, the museum collected invaluable exposure from a national audience. More important for some was the chance to climb the wall of the American Mountaineering Center. “Blood, Sweat, and Tears,” a presentation on the creation of the museum from start to finish, was also given by individuals whose involvement with the museum spans ten years. Sherry Richardson, Phil Powers, Kristy Judd, and others spoke candidly about the process of building a museum from scratch Adding to our outstanding success, and building upon our flourishing reputation, was the contribution of Jake Norton, chairman of the museum advisory board. Jake is a seasoned mountaineer and guide, photographer, and acclaimed speaker. His presentation on the fate and story of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine on Mt. Everest in 1924, and the subsequent search for clues to their demise 75 years later, is close to his heart and accentuates his passion for history and the mountains. And it showed as his dramatic story-telling was able to stun the gathered crowd into silence as the epic tale unfolded. Also in April, in conjunction with its annual meeting, volunteer conserva-

tors from the American Institute for the Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (known as Angels) spent the day working with the collections at the American Alpine Club Library and American Mountaineering Museum. The purpose of the project was to preserve rare books and archival documents, such as the Colorado Peak Registers. These collections are used by scholars and enthusiasts to explore and protect mountain environments. The project was organized by Beth Heller, Preservation Librarian for the American Alpine Club. Says Heller, “This project allows conservators to join conservationists in a mission to protect fragile resources – whether they are in the library or on a mountain top. Conservators from across the United States volunteered their highly specialized skills, and the host sites are grateful for this opportunity.” In addition to the Peak Registers project, conservators were able to unmount and preserve some of the photographs in the library’s collection (see photo, opposite). This summer will see new exhibits coming to the museum, as well as to the halls of the American

Mountaineering Center. Read more about “Views of the Himalaya,” “Mountain Gifts,” and “Seizing Time” later in this issue. The following pages are filled with images and stories of John Salathé and the first ascent of the northwest face of Half Dome. Visit the museum to see our temporary exhibits on both of these historic and compelling subjects. We must thank Jerry Gallwas for loaning the objects to the museum for these great new exhibits. Finally, the museum has partnered with Coleman Outdoors to launch the “50 States in 50 Days” adventure. Denver teacher Mike Haugen will attempt to summit the highest points in each of the 50 states to raise awareness about the problem of childhood obesity, and encourage kids to get outdoors. Visit our website, www.bwamm.org, for more information. After the adventure is completed in July, a website will be launched that will challenge kids to virtually earn their way to the summits of the 50 state highpoints.

Are you interested in leading educational tours? Would you like to help in Base Camp? Do you enjoy working with youth? Are you certified to belay guests on the climbing wall?

V WE ARE LOOKING FOR INDIVIDUALS TO RECEIVE SPECIALIZED TRAINING AS MUSEUM EDUCATION DOCENTS Please contact Carla Preston with questions or to volunteer

303.996.2761

At 6,288 feet, Mt. Washington is New Hampshire’s highest point, and just one of the 50 state highpoints that Mike Haugen will attempt to summit in 50 days this summer.

CALL FOR VOLUNTEERS

SCFD Scientific & Cultural Facilities District

Making It Possible.

5 ##

Bergheil, John

OHN

SALATHÉ HAS BECOME LEGENDARY AMONG ROCK

CLIMBERS OF THE WORLD.

HIS PLACE IN THE HISTORY OF

YOSEMITE CLIMBING, AND THE REVOLUTION IN EQUIPMENT THAT FOLLOWED FROM HIS HAND FORGING OF PITONS AND OTHER PIECES OF CLIMBING EQUIPMENT, WILL FOREVER BE REMEMBERED.

But little else is known about this enigmatic figure. Much of what we do know has been gleaned from the letters and correspondence he had with his friends and relatives. His English may have been poor, but his words were strong and sincere. Salathé was born in Niederschöntal, near Basel, Switzerland on June 14, 1899. He studied blacksmithing in his home town for three years. He then went to Paris, but he had such a bad experience with bedbugs that he left at 2 a.m. for Le Havre, where he found work on a coastal steamer as a fireman. Later, he worked on a bigger ship as an oiler and occasional deck hand. He was at sea for four years, going as far as Africa and Brazil. He finally arrived in Montreal where he met his wife-to-be. They were married in 1929 and emigrated to San Mateo, California, where he founded his famous Peninsula Wrought Iron Works.

EXHIBIT PREVIEW VISIT THE MUSEUM TO LEARN

& SEE MORE

Photos (clockwise, from left): John Salathé collecting herbs in Switzerland; Ax Nelson and Salathé made the first true ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite in 1947 (photo by Ansel Adams); Salathé spent many of his later years in the desert of Southern California; Salathé climbed for the final time on the Matterhorn. Afterwards, he retired his gear to good friends John Thune, Sr. and Jr.; A postcard from Salathé to John Thune, Sr. after his first ascent of Sentinel Rock in 1950 with Allen Steck.

THE GEAR

FOR THE

FIRST ASCENT

∆ nylon ﬂight suit coveralls ∆ sweater, to cover over regular climbing clothing

ONEof ALLrst D ascent

the fi H A L F

& SEE

CALIFORNIA’S YOSEMITE VALLEY

∆ 45 pitons, including 18 horizontal pitons, 16 angle plus knife blade and wafers

RISE SOME OF THE

the ﬁrst time, Europeans were realizing that Ameri-

UNITED STATES.

cans had developed a unique and equally challeng-

∆ more than 1,200 feet of nylon rope (2) 120-foot 7/16-inch climbing rope (1) 150-foot 7/16-inch hauling rope (2) 300-foot 5/16-inch rappel rope (1) 150-foot 5/16-inch hauling rope (1) 90-foot 5/16-inch hauling rope

ing style of rock climbing.

∆ torpedo bag (for hauling gear)

“Late in the afternoon, desiring to get a good start, Royal and Jerry climbed about 150 feet up the cliff and left a fixed rope. Only the first 30 to 40 feet were 4th- and 5th-class; from there on it was mostly 6thclass climbing. We ate our supper cold, having brought no stove, and we bivouacked at the base of the cliff—our last contact with the ground for five days.” – Mike Sherrick

∆ ﬁrst-aid kit

MOST MAJESTIC SCENIC WONDERS IN THE

∆ a few cans of tuna, raisins, nuts, lemon juice, chocolate, and “some particularly diserable packages of dates”

∆ 25 expansion bolts

1957 put Yosemite on the mountaineering map. For ITHIN

ROCK CLIMBERS, THEY ARE ALSO SOME OF THE MOST

HALF DOME,

ERN END OF THE VALLEY, WAS FIRST ASCENDED IN

AT THE EAST-

1875.

Its northwest face is a vertical sheet of smooth granite 2,000 feet high. Despite what it says on the telegraph, on June 28, 1957, after five days of continuous climbing, Jerry Gallwas (21), Royal Robbins (22), and Michael Sherrick (21) made the first ascent of the wall, completing the first Grade VI climb in the United States. Several attempts were made in the years leading up to 1957. Unlike other parties that attempted to climb with “siege” tactics, the successful party climbed alpine style—light and low key— and totally avoided publicity. They went so far as to time flashlight signals to their support party at the time of the Firefall, so that no tourists would see a light on the wall and create a sensation. The ascent of the northwest face of Half Dome in

VISIT THE MUSEUM TO LEARN

D O M E

CHALLENGING ROCK FACES IN THE WORLD.

EXHIBIT PREVIEW

∆ polyethylene containers (13.5 quarts; a little less than one quart per man, per day)

“We managed to climb another pitch before dark and reached a small sloping ledge about 500 feet above the ground where we spent our first uncomfortable night tied to the rock. The ledge was large enough, but it sloped down at an angle of about 20-degrees; any movement caused a tendency to slide off.” – Mike Sherrick

∆ ﬂashlight

“Some have said that we did the ‘impossible,’ and it is unfortunate that for decades the word impossible has been such a common term in the mountaineers’ vocabulary, being applied to that part of a mountain which presents an extreme in difficulty usually too demanding for the equipment and technique of the day. But improvements in technique and equipment just keep on happening.” – Mike Sherrick 9 ##

U E  “Views of the Himalaya” June 2, 2008 - August 2, 2008

Mountain to Mountain, a Colorado-based organization dedicated to promoting education and community development in remote mountain communities, presents the “Views of the Himalaya” photography exhibit. Highlighting the rich color and diversity of mountain regions around the world, “Views of the Himalaya” offers a greater window of awareness into the cultural, geographical and geopolitical landscape of the Himalayan region. Photographers include Phil Borges, Kevin Bubriski, Jimmy Chin, Di Zinno, Galen Rowell, Beth Wald, Nevada Wier and Bob Winsett. These award-winning artists are socially conscious innovators who are connected to the people and culture in the environment in which they travel, play and work. Mountain to Mountain will donate 100% of photography sales to the dZi Foundation Revitalize a Village project in Gudel, Nepal, one of the poorest areas of the world. Revitalize a Village is supporting sustainable community development through educational initiatives focused on building schools, training teachers and providing safe drinking water for the 5,000 villagers. Translated poetry and art from local Gudel porters will also be on display.

“Mountain Gifts”

June 10, 2008 - December 27, 2008 This exhibit allows the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum to showcase the depth and diversity of its collection, as well as that of our partner institution, the Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library and Colorado Mountain Club Collection. Items including climbing equipment from the early 1900s, Sherpa cultural garments, as well as an array of lithographs, engravings, and wood block prints from the Alps and Japan will be on display. A fine example of 17th century Dutch cartography -- a map of Dauphiné in France by Joan Blaeu -- hints at an up coming exhibit on cartography of mountain regions around the world.

“Seizing Time” Coming in 2009

Bradford Washburn -- pioneer in the fields of mountaineering, photography, cartography, and museums -- was a man of undying energy and spirit. His meticulous attention to detail consumed each of his projects, and often led him to question the validity of others’ claims -- particularly those of early 20th-century explorer Frederick Cook. These two attributes alone were enough to carry Brad higher and farther than most men dare. But to have the energy and spirit to map, photograph, organize, test, and teach until the age of 95 -- that was something only Brad could do. Next year, the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum will proudly

Left: Brad with his Fairchild camera, with which he photographed much of Alaska (Courtesy of Panopticon Gallery). Above: Brad, 50 years later, still able to show how it’s done (Courtesy of Thom Pollard).

present an exhibition on the namesake of our museum, the man who wasn’t complete without his wife, Barbara, by his side. Working with institutions across the country, as well as the Washburn family, the museum will bring you a unique perspective on this man, his work, and the spirit that drove him to such great heights -- physically and professionally.

New bills protecting quiet recreation signed into law

News & events

By Bryan Martin, CMC Assistant Director of Conservation

Liesl Peterson

Brenda Porter

Foundation announces academic awards for 2008 By Al Ossinger The Colorado Mountain Club Foundation awards several research fellowships annualy and has announced that Liesl Peterson is the winner of the first Kurt Gerstle Award, while Brenda Porter has received the Neal B. Kindig Award. Peterson is a Ph.D. candidate in the Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at the University of Colorado at Boulder. Under the direction of Professors Robert Guralnick and Chris Ray, her research topic was “Testing climate-related Models of Range contraction for the American Pika.” Porter received the Kindig award for “Study of Student Outcomes of the Colorado Mountain Club’s Youth Education Program.” Porter is a masters degree candidate at Regis University. Her research director is Professor Sharon Heinlen. Porter has been director of Education at the Colorado Mountain Club for ten years.

In addition to these two awards, the CMCF also gave grants to Janic Brashney, a doctoral student in the Department of Geological Sciences at CU, with a study of Dust Deposition in Alpine Lakes. Others receiving grants included James Bromberg of Colorado State University’s Bioagricultural Science and Pest Management Department for a study on the distribution of cheatgrass in Rocky Mountain National park; to Clancy Brown, a student at Hobart and William Smith Colleges, Geneva, New York, for a study of Nuisance Algal Blooms in Alpine Streams; to Grace Carter; and to Kendra Morliengo-Bredlau. The CMC Foundation awards program was instituted in 1982 through the efforts of Dr. Kurt Gerstle. Applications this year were reviewed by Thomas Cope, Sam Guyton, and All Ossinger (chair). Further information is available on the CMC website.

Trail Foundation schedules summer seminars 12

The Colorado Trail Foundation’s summer seminars in the San Juan’s are a best-kept secret in the adventure field. It’s not too late to join others on a week’s learning journey in a superb setting. Spend a week painting in oil or watercolor ((7/6–7/12) or a week during the height of the Wildflower season, identifying and photographing (7/20–7/26); Hiking and Climbing With the Best (7/20–7/27); Geology of the

San Juans, with lots of field trips (7/27–8/02); Plein Air Watercolor (8/3–8/9); and Music in the Mountains, creating your own flute and penny whistle, then learning to play in the surrounding meadows (8/10–8/16). All meals and instruction included for under 400 dollars for the entire week. Check the website for more information: www. ColoradoTrail.org. P

This spring, the CMC led a broad alliance of Colorado recreation and conservation groups to pass House Bill 1069. The bill gives state law officers authority to enforce off highway vehicle (OHV) rules and regulations on federal lands in Colorado. The bill passed with bipartisan support in both houses and was signed into law by Governor Ritter on Thursday, March 20th at a signing ceremony in the Capitol. In his speech before signing the bill into law, the Governor said, “HB 1069 is a great example of how diverse stakeholders along with the federal, state and local government can work together to address issues of shared concern.” He continued, “The success of HB 1069 was grounded in the unique collaboration among the hunting and angling, offhighway vehicle, and conservation communities.” HB 1069 is the first law of its kind in the country. Supporters include, but are not limited to, the Colorado Off-Highway Vehicle Coalition (COHVCO), the Colorado Wildlife Federation, the Colorado Mountain Club, Trout Unlimited, The Wilderness Society, and Backcountry Hunters and Anglers. These organizations recognize HB 1069 as an important step toward ensuring the long-term sustainability of Colorado’s public lands. The bill will protect the quiet, human-powered recreational experiences that Colorado Mountain Club members seek when heading into the backcountry. Unregulated OHV use has created user conflict issues on public lands, with hikes and other quiet backcountry adventures being increasingly interrupted by illegal OHV use. Moreover, misuse of OHVs has caused irreparable damage to Colorado’s fragile ecosystems in alpine tundra and countless riparian areas. HB 1069 aims to control hiker-rider conflict and resource damage issues by increasing the pressure on OHV riders to keep their vehicles where use has been designated. In addition, Senate Bill 63 was signed by the Governor on May 27th. This law will cap the noise emissions on OHVs and standardize the testing process for state peace officers

to enforce violations, which will make it easier for penalties to stand up in court. The CMC supported the legislation and negotiated the bill’s final language with the OHV community. The bill appropriates $25,000 for equipment and training of state officers to enforce the new law, and also funds an education program to inform OHV enthusiasts of its requirements. The bill includes a “successor clause” that ensures that as national standards require the engineering of quieter machines, Colorado’s law will adopt the new (more restrictive) standards. Lastly, the bill reaffirms the authority of local governments to establish “noise abatement” ordinances to regulate noise in residential areas or during times of the day. The Conservation department is proud to have forged a number of strong relationships with key legislators and have built alliances with diverse organizations throughout the state. We look forward to building on our successes in 2009 and further solidifying the CMC’s role as a respected partner in the establishment of public land management policy. P

Bryan Martin, CMC assistant conservation director, shakes hands with Governor Ritter after HB 1069 was signed into law.

Colorado charity legislation would increase public trust On May 14, 2008, Governor Bill Ritter signed House Bill 1109. The bill increases the Secretary of State’s authority over charitable solicitations; the bill is intended to increase public faith in charities through more transparency and accountability. The hope is that such legislation will increase donations to Colorado charities. According to the Colorado Nonprofit Association’s (www. coloradononprofits.org) most recent State of Giving report, Coloradans earn six percent more than the average American, yet give eight percent less in charitable contributions. Studies also show that one of the greatest factors affecting

the level of giving is public trust in charities. It is hoped that the increased transparency and accountability resulting from this bill will help improve overall giving in our state. It is important to note that the intent of HB 1109 is not to subject confidential information, such as donor lists, inadvertently to public disclosure and thus reduce giving by anonymous donors. The next step for the Secretary of State’s office will be to draft rules and hold a hearing before Sept. 1, 2008, the effective date of the law. For more information, visit www. sos.state.co.us. P

News & events

CMC member aids homeless with retired gear By Susan Baker

(L to R back row) Red, Sable (dog), Tammy and Rick and (front row) Ken John (founder of Homeless Gear) share a photo during a recent gear give a way

All of us who participate in outdoor activities own equipment we have replaced over the years with lighter, faster, or stronger items. Often the retired gear is just sitting in basements, garages, and closets collecting dust. Recently, Ken John, my climbing partner and a CMC member, had an idea what to do with it: Homeless people can use that gear to make their days more bearable and nights survivable. Ken established an organization to collect and distribute it. Homeless Gear is a Colorado-based program of the Community Foundation with the simple mission of collecting unwanted outdoor gear from the backpacking, hiking, camping, and climbing communities and giving it to the homeless. There are organizations already in place to provide homeless people with vital services such as shelter, food, and medical care. However, a segment of the homeless community cannot gain entrance into overnight shelters due to capacity limitations, or because they have issues with substance abuse. Even if they do find overnight shelter, they may spend the majority of each day outside in the elements. Imagine what a sleeping bag would do for someone who is forced to spend the day under a bridge or sleep out at night. Similarly, a large percentage of homeless people move from one location to another. Cardboard boxes, shopping carts, and other similar containers simply don’t meet the needs of someone constantly on the move. A backpack of any size is perfect to help them organize, store,

and transport their personal belongings. Is this somehow enabling the homeless? If you mean enabling them to avoid frostbite or worse, then yes. If you mean encouraging them to stay out on the streets then definitely not. We want everyone to find permanent shelter. Sometimes for a variety of reasons this cannot happen. Homeless Gear reaches out to those who cannot or who choose not to take advantage of a shelter. Shelters are the best primary locations to distribute the gear once it is collected. Shelter administrators and caseworkers know the populations they serve and will determine the people with the greatest need. Homeless Gear has has already gotten commitments from local shelters to participate in the distribution of everything collected. John notes that there are three ways people can contribute to the Homeless Gear effort. They can donate gear (see sidebar for list of needed items); they can donate cash; and they can spread the word. Since the Community Foundation is a 501(c) (3) non-profit organization, all cash and equipment donations are tax deductible. Please consult with your tax advisor for details. For more information, please contact

Ken John at (970) 282-9001 or Ken@ HomelessGear.com. Visit the website at www.HomelessGear.com. for a complete list of suggested items, as well as drop-off locations. P

Things to donate to Homeless Gear All outdoor clothing and footwear (especially boots) is accepted, but the organization is specifically looking for: • Backpacks • Daypacks • Bookpacks (School packs) • Sleeping Bags • Stuff Sacks • Ground Cloths or Small Tarps • Sleeping Pads • Gloves • Warm Hats & Scarves • Water Bottles • Flashlights or Headlamps • C a m p i n g / B a c k p a c k i n g Bowls, Plates, Cups, Spoons, or Forks • Sunglasses

Web 2.0 comes to the Colorado Mountain Club

Editable maps added to online Activity Schedule

News & events

By Ania Savage The newest jargon on the Internet is “Web 2.0,” and one of the most noticeable things about Web 2.0 is social networking through websites such as Facebook and MySpace. The CMC is in step with this trend by offering this summer for the first time electronic maps that hikers can use to learn more about the terrain, comment on the route, and even attach and share photos of their successful climbs and hikes. The rollout of electronic maps of more than 2,000 hikes on the CMC website’s on-line Activity Schedule began in February. It should be completed by year’s end. The offering is a collaboration between the club and Mapbuzz.com, a social networking mapping site. Hike leaders are using Mapbuzz.com to develop electronic maps of the hikes they lead. The electronic route maps are attached to the description of a hike. In addition, a leader can add visual material such as lookouts along the route and list proposed rest stops along the trail. After participating in a hike, CMC members can post comments about the route, make observations about the terrain, and add photos. Bill Smith, the CMC’s information technology specialist, is overseeing the project. He thinks the use of electronic hiking maps will offer hikers a better understanding of the terrain and route of a hike. “A leader’s ability to add visual material to the trip route and the use of satellite-generated maps will provide a much better understanding of the route and enhance the description of the trip provided by the leader,” Smith said.

Besides enhancing hikers’ knowledge about a route, electronic maps will make it easier to find the trailhead, especially in cases when a hiker travels alone to the trailhead to join the group. Electronic maps will also provide more accurate information about the distance of a hike and the elevation gain or loss during a hike. There are other benefits in the CMC’s decision to go digital, Smith said. “As leaders save their trips to the catalogue, it will provide a baseline map for leaders who want to do these hikes in the future. The CMC is always looking for new ways to provide members with ways to make their enjoyment of the outdoors better and safer,” Smith said. The partnership between CMC and Mapbuzz.com makes the CMC the first major hiking organization to offer electronic maps to its members. “Online maps will foster the exchange of information between both hikers and leaders,” said Charlie Savage, founder of Mapbuzz. “As with other social networking sites, such as MySpace and Facebook, the ability to share information quickly and easily benefits members of the network. MapBuzz-based maps will give hikers more information about what to expect on a particular hike and connect them more effectively with other members of the club.” Leaders interested in integrating a map into their on-line trip descriptions can contact Bill Smith at (303) 996-2743 or billsmith@cmc.org. There is also “how-to” information available on the CMC website at www.cmc.org/leaders. P

Pyramid Peak “DNF” By David A. Lien

In alpine skiing parlance, a DNF stands for “did not finish.” I raced slalom and giant slalom for three years during high school and had my share of discouraging DNFs, but I never let them stop me from getting back up, brushing myself off, and trying again—and again, always learning something from the setback and applying that experience to my next race. DNFs happen on fourteeners too, especially mountains like Pyramid Peak. (I first attempted Pyramid Peak, my fiftieth fourteener, on in July of 2002 and returned to finish the job on August 18 of that year.) Pyramid Peak is located at the head of the glacier-carved West Maroon Creek Valley and is only two miles east of the Maroon Bells. The geology of Pyramid Peak falls into the Elk Mountain’s characteristically crumbly and sedimentary category. Summitpost.org says all 14,018 feet of the mountain can be described by “the three R’s: red, rugged, and rotten.” Pyramid is usually climbed using a Class 4–rated route up its northeast ridge and east face, and website notes that “this could very well be the steepest sustained [standard] route you will ever encounter on a fourteener.” It is only three miles from the trailhead to the summit, but you climb through 4,430 vertical feet to get there. The route leading to the 13,000-foot saddle is rated relentlessly steep Class 2+, and the peak’s last 1,000 feet are continuous Class 3 and 4 rated. Gerry Roach (Colorado’s Fourteeners, 1999) knows this route’s difficulties and writes that Pyramid is at the north end of a “highly convoluted, 4-mile-long ridge between West Maroon and East Maroon Creeks. Pyramid is the highest point on the ridge; it carries this distinction well” (204).

Up early with lingering concerns about the possibility of rain and slick terrain on such a dangerous mountain, I wasted over an hour before sunup bushwhacking through the forest on a rain-soaked mountainside looking for the Pyramid Peak Trail cutoff. After finding the trail, I scanned the early morning sky for building clouds, saw none, and decided to continue up into the hanging basin below Pyramid’s north face. Things still looked good there, so I kept going. After climbing and clawing my way upward for five hours, I was finally nearing the summit, though I didn’t know it. About then a nearby peak requiring a fairly long traverse to reach came into view. Was that Pyramid Peak or was it possibly just minutes away directly above me? The clouds looked as though they were building, but I wasn’t sure. I was, however, certain that getting caught on this peak in a thunderstorm would be a very undesirable event. The route continued unremittingly steep and exposed, and the treads on my boots were so well worn that they were better suited for skiing than climbing on wet rocks and slick soil. I stopped, thought, and contemplated; looked up at the clouds, down on the route below; and scanned the rocks above looking—hoping for some sign (divine or otherwise) of the summit. Then I turned around. A group of five climbers coming up from behind—the only others on the mountain that day—thought I was crazy for reversing course after having come so far. Maybe so, this time, but one thing I’ve learned from years of hiking and climbing in the mountains of Colorado and elsewhere is that weather forecasting is an oxymoron, especially in places and predicaments like this. Exercising common sense

Facing page: The Pyramid Peak Trail. The Maroon Bells at dawn as seen from the Pyramid Peak Trail

and reasonable caution, combined with following my gut instincts, has gotten me up and down many peaks others have died on in less-potentially-threatening conditions. He who fights and runs away lives to fight another day, but he who in battle is slain, will never rise to fight again. —Old Proverb The weather ended up being perfect all day, and I subsequently discovered that Pyramid’s summit was a mere ten or fifteen minutes away from where I turned around. It didn’t matter though. Even a chance of having to negotiate the Northeast Ridge through clouds, lightning, rain, slick rocks, and mud was not worth the risk. I’m not interested in recklessly risking life or limb over a pile of rocks. Turning back is never easy, but the mountain wasn’t going anywhere. As Cicero (a Roman author, orator, and politician) said, “If you aspire to the highest place, it is no disgrace to stop at the second, or even the third place.” Besides, climbing isn’t just about reaching summits. Far more important is what you see, feel, experience, and learn along the way. Reinhold Messner wrote in All Fourteen 8,000ers, “In the final analysis, every expedition… resolves down to a struggle with oneself, any inner insight gained being infinitely more valuable than the…summit”(169). And in Sandstone Sunsets, Mark Taylor adds, “The genuine odyssey or quest is not about piling up miles or dangerous

experiences. It is a deeply felt, risky, and unpredictable tour of the soul” (71). Reinhold and Mark have it right. Reaching any summit is a grand goal and fantastic accomplishment, but the opportunity for silent soul-searching and quiet contemplation is even more important. My friend, climbing-mountaineering guide Gary Scott, writes that conquering “your Everest” isn’t the real secret to inner peace: it’s what you learn and what you become from the attempt, and how you apply that knowledge to your next mountain, to your next challenge (Summit Strategies, 125). Edmund Hillary seemed to agree when he said, “It is not the Mountain we conquer, but Ourselves.” I would return to challenge Pyramid Peak another day, accepting my DNF with dignity, and in the process continuing to learn about myself, my capabilities, and our mountains and wilderness. That’s what life’s really about anyway, isn’t it? I guess that’s for you to decide. In the winter 2002 issue of the Boundary Waters Journal, Tom Koshiol expressed my thoughts on this subject perfectly: “Our experiences accumulate and make us who we are. We are constantly becoming the sum-total of all the events in our lives and, in my view, any time spent in the wilderness makes a nice addition to that total” (“Winter Camping—Why Go?” p. 20). P David Lien has climbed all Colorado fourteeners, the fifty state highpoints, and six of the Seven Summits, with a DNF on Mount Everest. He turned back at 25,200 feet on the north/ Tibet side of Everest in 2006.

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Blackett becomes CMC Executive Director

News & events

By Tom Beckwith In June, the Colorado Mountain Club welcomed Katie Blackett as its new Executive Director. The post had been empty since the departure of Kristy Judd in January, after which Bill Strathearn, former CMC treasurer, served as interim E.D. Blackett brings a wealth of financial, organizational, and operational management experience to the position. Most recently, she served as the Chief Financial Officer and Director of Finance and Operations at the non-profit National Institute for Trial Advocacy (NITA) in Louisville, Colorado. While there, she oversaw three departments and worked with a twenty-three person board of directors. Katie is also a professional marathon runner. “I began running when I was nine years old,” she said. “My dad was also a marathoner, and for college I got a full-ride scholarship to Villanova University in the long jump, the triple jump, and the heptathlon. But Villanova has such strength in distance running that before long, I was competing in marathons.” She has been a professional runner for eight years and is sponsored by Saucony, a company specializing in shoes and apparel for runners (www.saucony.com), and by Powerbar. She recently competed in her second Olympic marathon trial and admits to some relief that she didn’t make the Olympic team. “I’m looking forward to being a part of the Colorado Mountain Club,” she said. “When you’re a professional runner, you can’t hike or ski or climb because of the danger of injury. It’s the loss of a pay check if you can’t compete.” She also plans to dial down her involvement in professional running. “You don’t really have a life,” she admits, “when you’re training three hours or more every day. I’m ready to be a part of this wonderful organization. I’m ready to hike and ski!” She and her husband, Matt Schneider, live in Boulder and have joined the Boulder Group. Matt is an orthopedic physicians’ assistant who works for Boulder’s Center for Sports Medicine. The couple met in Tucson, Arizona, where Matt was working as a trainer. “I faked an injury to meet him,” Katie admits. “I described an old, healed injury so I’d know what the symptoms were.” Matt is also a runner who competed this in the Boston Marathon while she was participating in the Olympic trials there. Meanwhile, a brother and his family are moving to Colorado from Tucson, Arizona, and Katie has plans to get them to join the Colorado Mountain Club, as well. “All these runners turning into hikers,” she laughs. “The family is breathing a sigh of relief.” When asked why she became interested in the CMC’s Executive Director position, Katie said, “I love non-profits. I’ve worked for both for-profit corporations and non-profits, and I prefer the dedication and lifestyle of the non-profit world. I wanted to find an organization focused on recre-

ation, conservation, education, or the arts and get behind its mission. The CMC was a perfect fit.” Katie looks forward to ensuring that the Groups of the CMC and the various stakeholders in the club have a voice that is heard and respected and that the club will continue to grow into its mission as the premier outdoor organization in the Rocky Mountain west. P

A Cautionary Potpourri By Matt Biscan

The Black Diamond ATC Guide and Hammer Gells

As mountaineers our gear choices are, to say the least, vast. A trip to a favorite retail establishment presents even the novice with an array of choices that boggle the mind. Air flow or padded suspension systems; leather or synthetic; bottle or bladder? And every week the manufacturers come out with new and different styles, systems, colors. The lists of available equipment for use on A hikes to technical climbs to HAMS adventures are, literally, endless. We can only hope that, like John Weiland, when a mountain crisis strikes we are well prepared. Weiland, an ice climber in Alaska, avoided tragedy thanks to preparation, training, experience, and, one assumes, good equipment. His story is recounted in Mueller and Reiss’s Extreme Outdoor Adventures, (Lyons Press, 2008). Weiland had already saved a colleague from a gruesome fall when ice sheared away, pulling a screw out. He skillfully applied braking force with his belay device to stop the fall. On a later climb, though, a wall of ice gave way and showered down on John and his partner. The partner’s chest was crushed, and he was pinned beneath ice with a punctured lung. Weiland had no choice but to go for help. So, what has this story to do with gear? Well, consider the belay device Weiland used to stop his partner’s fall. It pays to have a good one. It pays even more to know how to use it correctly and well. The device hanging from most BMS instructors’ harnesses appears to be the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Rumor has it the Guide is also a favorite of HAMS. With extra holes for fixing to an anchored belay or for girth

hitching a runner to leverage a release, Black Diamond trusts this device enough to tout the ability of the Guide to belay two seconding climbers from above. A similar device is the Petzl Reverso3, which hit stores in June. Like the Guide, it boasts multiple belays, a release hole, and asymmetrical grooves to adjust breaking tension. The Reverso3 also claims to have “anti-twist grooves” and the ability to accept a wide range of rope diameters. Weiland also needed strength and stamina to get off the pitch and out for help. Nutritional fuel is necessary for this and for everything else we do in the mountains. Being in a hurry, he didn’t have time for a full meal, or even gorp or a heavy energy bar, much less a bagel. I for one don’t digest food well on a long hike or a high climb, and nothing ruins a day in the mountains like indigestion. Consequently food gels have become very popular with runners and seem to be on the verge of taking over with climbers. They are universally now for sale in climbing and biking shops. My favorite is Hammer brand, particularly the banana and espresso flavors. The scope of available flavors is broad enough to accommodate every taste, though flavor does vary by brand. Try several kinds to find what works for you. Your body needs carbohydrates on hikes and climbs. The gel carbs digest easily and speed fuel to muscles. Brands to try include Hammer, GU, Cliff, Accel, and PowerBar. A doctor friend of mine recommends gels that contain Maltodextrin for ease of digestibility. She also recommends a small amount of protein in a hiking and trekking diet, which I accomplish with a bow to tradition and a baggie of beef jerky. Make sure you include electrolyte replacement in your hydration plan to round out this less-than-traditional approach to eating in the mountains. As an aside, I learned the hard way on a backcountry ski trip last winter that hydration bladders have an inherent risk in cold weather that should be avoided. I like water bladders because I don’t sip regularly enough from bottles on the trail. In the cold, I tuck the mouthpiece into my shell to keep it from freezing, after blowing the water all the way back into the pack. That works just great unless, as occurred on this trip, the bite valve falls off. It took only seconds to soak me through: not good on a very cold day. Invest in a shut off valves for your hydration bladders. It will keep you dry and save your water for where it’s needed; inside and not on you. To return to John Weiland’s rescue adventure: In order to hike out to find help for his friend, Weiland needed good footwear. Never mind the technical aspects of ice climbing; boots are all about locomotion, and nothing hurts quite

like sore feet. Boots are as personal as, well, underwear to most people. Finding the right pair for you is worth every minuteóand nearly every dollaróspent. Though expensive and heavy, I have found the perfect boot for my genetically impaired ankles. The La Sportiva Evo GTX provides excellent traction, accepts step-in crampons, and supports the foot and ankles like nothing I’ve ever had on before. In leather, with rubber and plastic rand, they work for me. Kayland is a popular boot with local climbing shops and appears to be the boot of choice among BMS students who don’t otherwise wear La Sportiva. Written up in the climbing rags is a new boot by Millet called the Radikal. Touted as a “green” synthetic, the Radikal’s polyurethane upper is made from a non-toxic vegetable-based formula. According to the swag put out by the company, it can also be resoled. And of course it is touted to pull moisture away from the foot and retain heat. Who knows? Give it a try. If it works, Millet will do well with this one. So what is the point of talking about belay devices, nutrition options, and boots along with John Weiland’s trek to

save his friend? He illustrates the lesson that having good equipment during an emergency, equipment that works and that you know how to use and can rely on, will allow you to concentrate on the tasks at hand. Focusing on the goals and needs of the emergency takes mental fortitude and strength. If you’ve covered the physical side of things, you can devote your attention to mental toughness. Weiland had that mental toughness. He down-climbed from the pitch with two axes and one crampon, and then he hiked out to a road to flag down help, all of 150 yards. Not too far in theory, but did I mention that his left boot sole was gone along with the crampon? Both were swept away by the falling iceóthe same ice that had smashed his left ankle, torn ligaments, and hyperflexed his right knee. Did I mention that the subsequent ice fall had broken Weiland’s left fibula in two places? The most important gear you take into the mountains is your mind. Both John Weiland and his partner survived the experience and returned to ice climbing. P

Byers joins conservation staff

In March, the Conservation Department welcomed Anya Byers as the Recreation Planning Coordinator, joining Bryan Martin, Assistant Director of Conservation, in Golden, and Clare Bastable, the Director of Conservation, in Carbondale. Anya comes to the CMC from working with non-profit recreation and conservation organizations as well as local and federal land management agencies in Colorado and the west. A Colorado native, Anya has been enjoying the Rocky Mountains for longer than she can remember. Her combined interests in outdoor recreation and environmental protection prompted her to spend several seasons

working on and leading trail crews for Boulder’s Open Space and Mountain Parks Department. While studying Human Ecology at Stanford, Anya worked on monitoring and GIS mapping with the Nature Conservancy in Colorado at the Bohart Ranch near Colorado Springs and the Arickaree River Conservation Area in northeastern Colorado. She also spent six months researching grazing and land use patterns in the Succulent Karoo Biome, a biodiversity hotspot in South Africa. After graduating, she worked in New Mexico as a researcher at the Valles Caldera National Preserve. Designated by Congress in 2000, the 89,000-acre preserve is a case study for multiple-use management of public lands that unites diverse stakeholders through science-based adaptive management. In 2006, Anya joined the staff of the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI) as Volunteer Coordinator and later as the Restoration Manager, planning and supervising trail construction, restoration and maintenance projects, and public education efforts on Colorado’s peaks over 14,000 feet. Working on these high peaks enabled her to educate people of all ages in how to

resource damage to extremely fragile natural places. Anya will engage in travel management (recreation) planning processes throughout the state, ensuring that the Colorado Mountain Club has a strong presence in recreation planning and that quiet, human-powered recreation is protected on our public lands. She will also lead the Colorado Mountain Club’s efforts to reduce the impact of recreation on landscapes by creating and enhancing partnerships with government and stewardship organizations in Colorado, working to enlarge the club’s capacity to undertake restoration projects on our national forests and BLM lands. As a result of Anya’s efforts, CMC members will be offered additional opportunities to get out on and give back to our public lands. To find out about conservation’s stewardship projects, summer hike series, and other ways to get involved, please go to our newly redesigned website pages at www.cmc.org/conservation. The Conservation Department is always looking for feedback and ideas from members. Contact Clare at (970) 618-1341 or bastac@cmc.org if you have some conservation thoughts that you would like to share. P

News & events

Library growing

By Gary Landeck

Peak Registers belonging to the Colorado Mountain Club prior to conservation efforts. Photo by Beth Heller. Above right: Beth Heller, conservation librarian. Photo by Alicia Bjornson.

It’s been a long time since an article has been published about the library in Trail & Timberline. However, that doesn’t mean that it’s been quiet at the Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library and Colorado Mountain Club Collection. We’re working on digitization projects, collaborating with the new Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, working on an oral history project, doing conservation work on the library’s unique collections, and applying for grants to improve the Library’s infrastructure and services. We’re busy, and I’m excited to tell you about what’s going on. We’re working on our first photo digitization project. Library volunteers Alex Bittenbinder, Jean Starling, and CMC member Pat Wallace have been working for several months on procedures to digitize the thousands of historic photographs in the Library’s collection. Their pilot project has been the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Himalaya Collection, a collection of about 1,300 35mm slides taken and donated by

the prominent Indian mountaineer, Harish Kapadia. Once the images have been scanned and made available on the web, the collection will be a valuable resource for anyone interested in exploring the Himalaya. Keep an eye on the library’s Flickr page at http://flickr. com/photos/aaclibrary/ for updates. We were thrilled to be a part of the grand opening for the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum (BWAMM) in February. We are working with the BWAMM staff to integrate the museum’s collections with those of the library. Our plan is to purchase a new online catalog that will allow us to incorporate the museum’s three-dimensional artifacts with the library’s books, DVDs, and archives into a single system. Earlier this year, we launched an oral history project recording the voices and stories of AAC and CMC members for both research and entertainment value. With the help of Cyns Nelson, owner of Voices Preserved, we were able to record eight oral histories during the AAC’s Annual Dinner in February. Going forward, recording and providing access to these collections will become an increasingly volunteer-driven effort. If you have an interest in recording, transcribing, and making oral histories available on the web, please contact me at glandeck@ AmericanAlpineClub.org. As we have been building the library’s own collection of oral histories, we’re discovering that important recordings exist not only on the web, but also on tape in members’ basements and attics. We’ve established links to some of the web-based recordings on the library’s blog at http:// aaclibrary.blogspot.com. If you know the whereabouts of “lost” recordings, we would appreciate information on where to find them. As resources allow, we’ll make existing and new recordings available through the library’s online catalog at http://americanalpineclub. library.net. In April, the library was fortunate to receive the services of fifteen con-

or email us at library@americanalpineclub.org with your requests. If you live outside the area, we’ll ship to you for free. And if we don’t have what you’re looking for, we’ll buy and send it to you. As with everything else in life, these projects take time. I’m grateful for the fina cial and volunteer support the Colorado Mountain Club provides for the Library. But what I really enjoy is the enthusiasm CMC members have for making the Library a great resource. It is that enthusiasm from which these projects stem. P Gary Landeck is the librarian for the Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library and Colorado Mountain Club Collection.

Heller joins library staff servators from the American Institute for Conservatorsw (AIC) . Preservation Librarian Beth Heller coordinated this year’s event, and the library was the beneficiary of over $15,000 worth of archival supplies and skilled labor. Counted among the projects were the CMC peak registers. A team of conservators uncrumpled several hundred peak registers and placed them in archival-quality housings, making the registers easier to find and use. Finally, the library has applied for a major grant through the National Endowment for the Humanities (NEH). It is a five-year challenge grant that could result in nearly $350,000 in federal funding for library capital improvements, special events, digitization projects, and the establishment of an endowment. The NEH will announce the recipients of this year’s challenge grant in December, but in the meantime the Library has already raised $130K of the $1.3M it must contribute in actual and in-kind donations over the next five years. The library welcomes your donations. We’re doing all of this while still providing an important benefit for CMC members: library borrowing privileges. Don’t forget that you can borrow up to ten books and five VHS/DVDs for four weeks at a time. Browse the library’s catalog at http://americanalpineclub. library.netthen call (303/384-0112)

There’s a new face in the Library: Beth Heller came on board in March as Preservation Librarian. She had been working with the AAC and CMC for about a year on a long-range collections care strategy that encompasses the Library, the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, and plans for the Nick Clinch Central Asia Library. Beth is an art and paper conservator by profession. She has presented and taught courses at the University of

Texas, University of Houston, and the Texas Association of Museums. Her primary responsibilities are running most of the Library’s daily operations, but she also plays strategic roles in grant writing, care of collections, and making the museum and library an integrated knowledge resource that will increasingly become available online. Welcome, Beth.

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Peak Registers after preservation treatment. Photo by Beth Heller.

Access Update By Steve Bonowski and Clare Bastable

With the summer months upon us, the Conservation Department felt it important to provide CMC members with an update on peak access issues around the state. The department is working to resolve issues regarding Colorado peak access and encourages members to check for updates on the Conservation pages of the CMCs website at www.cmc. org/conservation. The information was current as of May and includes not only issues pertaining to 14,000´ peaks but also other access issues of interest to club members.

14,000´ Peaks:

Wilson Peak: T he Forest Service plans to finish laying out a trail route in Silver Pick Basin during the summer of 2008. Entry into the Basin will depend on how fast the very large snow pack melts and the peak becomes accessible. Trail construction is expected to occur in 2009. Currently, the standard route on the southwest ridge of Wilson Peak is open to climbers approaching either from Navajo Basin to the southwest or Bilk Basin from the east. The CMC continues to work with the Telluride Mountain Club and San Miguel County to assist the Forest Service in funding the plan and trail construction in Silver Pick Basin. We will be organizing a series of work days in 2009 to construct the new trail and will solicit help from CMC members to get the construction completed on a timely basis. We will continue to advise members of progress on the new trail and opportunities to help build the trail. We want to acknowledge the assistance provided over the past several on the Wilson Peak issue by Jeff Parsons, chair of the CMCs Legal and Risk Management Committee. Jeff, a former CMC board member, is a principal in the Western Mining Action Project, a non-profit entity located on the Front Range that helps communities deal with impacts from hard rock mining. Thanks to Jeff, we have learned more about Colorado mining law than we ever wanted to know. We inadvertently left Jeff and WMAP from the list of partners in the January T& T. Lincoln/Bross/Democrat: the Forest Service has almost completed the analysis of the trail corridors required by the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). Trail construction by the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative will continue this summer, and if all goes well, Lincoln and Democrat may reopen for public access by the end of the summer. The Mosquito Range Heritage Initiative, a CMC partner, is researching ownership patterns on Mt. Bross, and the summit and areas around it are proving to be problematic. For example, one particular claim on Bross has forty-fourowners who have fractional shares to the claim. It is likely that Bross will not open for public access this summer. Crestone Peak & Needle—West Side Access: the Cottonwood Creek and Spanish Creek trails south of the town of Crestone remain closed due by their owners. The owners, both spiritual centers, have requested no public access in order to preserve the quiet needed for their facilities as well

as for the preservation of the area in general. Much of this area is protected as a conservation easement because of its natural resources. There is potential access to the upper part of Spanish Creek from the Willow Creek trail to the north, but this has not yet been field-checked. There is also a potential route around the Cottonwood Creek trailhead primarily on Forest Service land, but other private land may be affected if an attempt is made to link from a county road to this property. Saguache County government has convened a discussion among of the property owners, federal land management agencies, other interested local citizens, and the CMC in order to see if alternate routes are feasible. At the first meeting in mid-April, not all ìplayersî in the issue were present, which made it difficult to have substantive discussions about the issues. Another meeting was planned for mid-June.

Non-14er Access Issues: Vail Pass Task Force: The club continues to serve as one of four representatives for non-motorized recreation interests on this informal advisory body. The Task Force helps the forest service manage the Vail Pass Winter Recreation Area while attempting to minimize user conflicts . The Vail Pass area is a fee zone, and money raised from fees is used primarily for enforcement. Access to the Recreational Area is either from Vail Pass or along US 24 near the site of Camp Hale. St. Mary’s Glacier: the Conservation Department has worked with the Education Department to identify parking for CMC schools using the Glacier area and for regular club trips going to James or Kingston Peaks. Conversations have taken place with two property owners in the area, one of whom charges for parking. Conservation is also following a bill in Congress that would provide a land exchange opportunity for the other property owner who is working to reopen the old St. Mary’s ski area as a snow park. Legislation enacted several years ago to create the James Peak Wilderness Area mandated establishment of a trailhead in the general area near St. Marys. The Forest Service hasn’t complied due to lack of money in its recreation budget. The owner has expressed interest in working with the agency on a trailhead project, so we may see the creation of a more formal trailhead facility in the next year or so. Cat Slab: The Colorado Mountain Club has monitored the closure of this popular climbing area in Clear Creek County west of Golden. Formerly privately owned, the area was in process of going into public ownership early in 2008. It is possible the area will reopen to public use. The Conservation Department at the Colorado Mountain Club pursues solutions that protect hiker access to peaks around the state. If you have any information on potential access issues, or would like to assist with access work, please contact Clare Bastable at bastac@cmc.org or (970) 618-1341. P

NEW BOOKS

Conservation

THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB PRESS

2533

Hiking Colorado’s Roadless Trails A Colorado Mountain Club Pack Guide By Penelope Purdy The first guidebook written specifically for hiking in “roadless” areas—pristine places where there are no roads, no logging or mining. • 20 great roadless trails in Colorado’s backcountry • Complete beta on locating the trailhead and detailed route descriptions and maps Imagine walking through a National Forest where there has never been a road or logging or mining, where silence reigns and wild animals find secluded places to raise their young and survive harsh weather. Second only to fully protected wilderness areas, roadless areas are the most intact natural forests that remain in Colorado. This book is the first guide specifically written to help you find these roadless trails, some of which are still threatened by encroaching development. Proceeds from the book go to assist The Colorado Mountain Club’s conservation efforts.

Colorado Snow Climbs A Guide for All Seasons

THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN CLUB GUIDEBOOK

By Dave Cooper A year-round guide to snow climbing in Colorado • 40 of the finest snow climbs in Colorado • Organized by season for yearround snow climbing • Full color photos and maps

COLORADO

SNOW

CLIMBS A GUIDE FOR ALL SEASONS

The Colorado mountains offer some DAVE COOPER of the finest snow climbing in the US—from winter ridge routes, to couloir and gully climbs in the spring and summer, to the alpine ice routes which form each autumn. The climbs in this book are organized by season and then by technical difficulty and commitment. They range from routes requiring little more than an ice ax and the requisite skills to technical climbs involving sections of serious ice and mixed climbing. By including “classics” as well as a sampling of lesser-known high quality routes (along with detailed maps and route descriptions), Cooper continues the tradition started in his best-selling “Colorado Scrambles.” GPS data for critical points on the approach and climb, plus four-color photographs, provide additional route information.

112 pages, 4 x 7, 30 black-and-white photos, 21 topo maps, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-7-9, $12.95, CMC member price $10.36

192 pages, 6 x 9, 100 color photos, 40 maps, ISBN 978-0-9760525-9-3, $22.95, CMC member price $18.36

Playing for Real

Colorado’s Quiet Winter Trails

Stories from Rocky Mountain Rescue By Mark Scott-Nash Rocky Mountain Rescue is the oldest mountain rescue teams in the country. • Gripping tales of tragedy and triumph in the mountains • Historical vignettes of Rocky Mountain Rescue on its 60th anniversary Pagers go off all over Boulder and programmers, grad students, accountants—men and women from all walks of life—drop what they’re doing, grab their rescue gear, and head for the hills. Someone is in deep trouble in the mountains, and the members of Rocky Mountain Rescue are responding to try to save a life. Playing for Real describes what goes through a rescuer’s head from the excitement of the initial page to searching for and finding victims. 176 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 23 photos and illustrations, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-6-2, $11.95, CMC member price $9.56

Rocks Above the Clouds

Colorado Lake Hikes

A Climber’s Guide to Colorado Mountain Geology

A Colorado Mountain Club Guidebook, Second Edition

By Jack Reed and Gene Ellis

By Dave Muller

A Colorado mountain geology book written specifically for climbers, scramblers, and hikers.

The only guidebook available for hiking to Colorado Lakes

• A geologic primer for mountain people • A range-by-range geologic description of Colorado mountains • Detailed geologic information on the Fourteeners Rocks Above the Clouds is the first geology book written for climbers, scramblers, and hikers. It is an exploration of how the nature of mountains and the challenges they present to climbers are influenced by the rocks that form them—in other words, by their geology. Starting with a description of the types of rocks found in mountains, the authors of Rocks Above the Clouds then describe the geologic processes, from the big bang through the processes that continue to shape them today. Following this mountain geology primer is a rangeby-range description of what to expect in the Colorado mountains, and then some very curious information on the Colorado 14ers. 128 pages, 4 x 7, 65 color photos, 10 color maps, paperback, ISBN: 978-0-9760525-8-6, $14.95, CMC member price $11.96

• 100 hikes to 145 different High County lakes • Four levels of hikes from easy to most difficult • Color photographs and maps throughout While Colorado is noted for its high peaks, literally hundreds of 7beautiful lakes and reservoirs sit under these peaks, many of which can be reached by hikers of all skill levels. Collecting the streams and snowmelt from above, the lakes provide homes for fish and refuge and water for birds and other wildlife. Lakes of various sizes and shapes can be found in rocky bowls, high basins or open valleys. Some are man-made to prevent floods, store water and provide recreation. All these lakes are very much worth visiting. And although most lake hikes take place in the summer, many of these hikes can be done in relative safety on snowshoes in the winter. 224 pages, 6 x 9, 120 color photos, 101 color maps, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9799663-1-6, $24.95, CMC member price $19.96 AVAILABLE IN JUNE

AVAILABLE IN JULY

Flatiron Classics

A Colorado Mountain Club Guidebook

Easy Rock Climbs Above Boulder, Second Edition

By Dave Muller

By Gerry Roach

99 Snowmobile-free Colorado winter trails.

The legendary guidebook to Boulder’s Flatiron climbing

• Quiet winter trails, no snowmobiles allowed • Richly illustrated with four color photos and maps throughout

• The first, best Flatirons guidebook • Most routes are 5.6 or easier • Completely updated to include seasonal closures

Veteran author Dave Muller has identified and described 99 snowshoe and cross country ski routes that by Colorado or Federal regulation (and enforcement of forest constables) are free of snowmobiles. Each route description starts with extensive beta including: Distance, estimated time needed to complete the route, starting elevation, highest elevation, elevation gain, difficulty level, an assessment of avalanche danger and a list of all the relevant Colorado, Federal and privately produced maps.

Soaring up from the Boulder foothills, the Flatirons are famous for moderate climbing; not only are they a great training ground for more difficult climbing, but Flatiron climbing is simply fun. Join Gerry Roach exploring this array of sandstone slabs that host a colorful universe of clefts, corners, cracks, chimneys, caves, overhangs, faces, grottos, alcoves, notches, ridges, and summits. There are more than 250 routes on 110 rocks, and 88% of them are rated 5.6 or easier. First published 20 years ago and long out of print, Flatiron Classics has been completely updated to include seasonal conservation closures and some reevaluations of route difficulty. Roach has designated 52 of the routes as “Classics” and added a list of the Top Ten routes.

240 pages, 6 x 9, 100 color photos, 100 maps, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-1-7, $21.95, CMC member price $17.56

272 pages, 6 x 9, 90 photographs, paperbound, ISBN 978-0-9799663-2-3, $18.95, CMC Member price $15.16.

The Best Fort Collins Hikes A Colorado Mountain Club Pack Guide By John Gascoyne Twenty Fort Collins hikes selected, described and photographed by members of the Fort Collins Group of the Colorado Mountain Club. • A wide variety of trails from urban strolls to alpine adventures. • A handy CMC Pack Guide with complete trail descriptions, color photos, maps, and commentary. • Trails for hikers, bikers and snowshoers; some are wheel-chairaccessible, some are equestrian-friendly and littered with horseshit, and most are open year round. The Best Fort Collins Hikes was written by CMC members for a wide range of readers—from experienced hikers who already know the local scene to visiting flatlanders who want to enjoy the best of the area. The descriptions range from very easy walks, to a number of moderate hikes, and a few of the difficult and demanding variety. 96 pages, 4 x 7, 42 color photographs, 21 color maps, paperbound, ISBN 978-0-9799663-0-9, $14.95, CMC member price $11.96 AVAILABLE IN APRIL

AVAILABLE IN JUNE

The Colorado 14ers

Rocky Mountain Flora

Colorado Scrambles

A Colorado Mountain Club Pack Guide 2nd Edition

A Colorado Mountain Club Field Guide

A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains

By James Ells, PhD

By Dave Cooper

By The Colorado Mountain Club Foundation The essential guide to the most popular routes up all 54 of the Colorado’s 14ers. • Over half a million North Americans attempt to climb at least one Colorado 14er every year • The most current guide to the 14ers available

A comprehensive, accurate, fullcolor field guide for anyone who loves Rocky Mountain wildflowers. • Authoritative authorship that sets a higher standard for flora field guides • Photos of each flower and its leaves to aid in identification

Organized by mountain range, this completely rewritten and redesigned second edition, is the only book you will need to find the most popular route up each of the 54 Colorado 14ers. Each description includes clear, concise directions for driving to the trailhead, where to park, a map of the route, difficulty rating, elevation profile, distance, and estimated round-trip time. As the most up-todate book available, The Colorado 14ers covers all access issues (as of this writing, five of the 14ers are closed to public access).

“What is that wildflower called?” It’s a question that every one of us who has hiked, run, or climbed in the Rockies has asked at least one hundred times. Organized by color, Rocky Mountain Flora has all the features of competing field guides, such as images of each flower, taxonomy, and detailed descriptions. In addition, unique components include a Life List for the serious wildflower enthusiast, the specific location, elevation, and time of year that the flower was found, and a special “LOOK FOR” feature that helps in quick identification.

120 pages, 4 x 7, 54 black-and-white photos, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-3-1, $11.95, CMC member price $9.56

320 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 1,339 color photos, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-4-8, $22.95, CMC member price $18.36

The Colorado Trail The Official Guidebook 7th Edition

The Colorado Trail Databook 3nd Edition

By The Colorado Trail Foundation

Completely revised guide to the extraordinary Colorado Trail which stretches 468 miles from Denver to Durango.

The lightweight, small, durable guidebook that all Colorado Trail hikers should have in their packs.

• For thru-hikers, day hikers, mountain bikers, trail runners, XC skiers, and equestrians • Elevation profiles, GPS waypoints, town maps, and mountain bike detours of Wilderness Areas The Colorado Trail (CT) is the premier scenic long trail in North America. It winds its way through endless fields of wildflowers to windy passes, from wild mountain rivers and streams to quiet trails through old growth forests. The CT crosses eight mountain ranges, seven National Forests, six Wilderness Areas and five river systems. This seventh edition of the official Colorado Trail guidebook has all the information you will need as a thru-hiker to plan and complete the trek. New to this edition are complete rewrites of the 28-segment trail descriptions and the addition of integrated GPS waypoints.

• Updated GPS waypoints for over 500 locations • Two-color maps for all 28 segments The Colorado Trail Databook is the essential lightweight guidebook to be carried in your pack, whether you are a thru-hiker of the 468-mile trail through the Rockies or out for a weekend backpack or day hike. Compiled and updated by experts from The Colorado Trail Foundation, this Pack Guide condenses all the information you need in easy-to-read, mile-by-mile descriptions with the elevation of geographic features to check against your altimeter, and latitude and longitude to check against your GPS. 64 pages, 4.5 x 6.5, 29 maps, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-5-5, $9.95, CMC member price $7.96

A detailed “tick-list” of the 50 best scrambles in Colorado. • Includes many of the classic Colorado scrambles as well as many superb, but little-known routes • Full-color maps and photos throughout

The Colorado Year Round Outdoor Guide By Dave Muller Year-round fun on 104 routes for any level of hiker, snowshoer, or skier • Features a pair of outings for each week of the year by season • Written for hikers, skiers, and snowshoers

The Colorado mountains provide endless opportunities for climbers of all skill levels, but until Dave Cooper wrote Colorado Scrambles, no one had identified the classic third- and fourth-class climbs or “scrambles” of the high country by the quality of the route. And while many of the routes have some exposure to significant heights and objective dangers like rockfall, most routes do not require the use of ropes or protection.

Drawn from author Dave Muller’s long-running, weekly series in The Denver Post exploring hiking, crosscountry skiing, and snowshoeing adventures in Colorado, this fullcolor guide selects many of the best outings that the state has to offer. There’s a pair of outings for every week of the year, with many not described before in other guides, and all chosen for their seasonal appeal. The emphasis here is on tours with skis or snowshoes in the winter months and hiking outings in the remainder of the year.

304 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 250 color photos, 60 maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9760525-0-4, $22.95, CMC member price $18.36

224 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 104 color photos, 101 color maps, paperback, $18.95, ISBN 0-9724413-2-8, $18.95, CMC member price $15.16

Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone

Run the Rockies

By Dave Muller The peak bagger’s encyclopedia • Describes classic peak routes from easy to difficult • Contains detailed information on 105 named summits From world-renowned Rocky Mountain National Park in the north to the magnificent San Juans in the southwest, from the famed peaks above Aspen to the remote tops of the Sangre de Cristos, no other state offers so many inviting summits to reach or such spectacular alpine hiking as Colorado. Now the Colorado Mountain Club, the hiking and climbing experts in the Rockies for nearly a century, reveals some of its classic favorites. Colorado Summit Hikes For Everyone contains detailed information for reaching 105 named summits, from peaks suitable for beginners to the famous 14,000-foot Capitol Peak. 224 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 120 color photos, 96 color maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-3-6, $18.95, CMC member price $15.16

Classic Trail Runs in Colorado’s Front Range By Steven Bragg A comprehensive guide to the Colorado Front Range for any level of trail runner—beginner to expert. • Fifty great routes that are relatively close to Boulder, Denver, and Colorado Springs • Large, clear route maps that detail distance, elevation gain, and loss, with GPS way points for the directionally impaired runner Run the Rockies contains detailed information for 50 classic trail runs chosen for their proximity to the major population centers of the Front Range, as well as their incredible scenic qualities and appeal to runners of all abilities. Here you will find everything you will need to enjoy the best the state has to offer: accurate access and route descriptions, must-have maps and elevation profiles, running techniques, equipment checklists, and safety tips. Fully GPS-enabled means that no matter how lost you get, you can find your way (if you have a map). 192 pages, 5.5 x 8.5, 81 photos, 51 two-color maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-5-2, $17.95, CMC member price $14.36

256 pages, 6 x 9, 131 color photos, 45 maps, paperback, ISBN 978-0-9760525-2-4, $22.95, CMC member price $18.36

Guide to the Colorado Mountains

Roof of the Rockies

Morpha

What’s Up with Altitude

A History of Colorado Mountaineering 3rd Edition

A Rain Forest Story

Mr. Moffat’s Class Investigates How Altitude Affects Our Bodies

By William M. Bueler

The rain forest cycle of life for children.

The ultimate guide to the Colorado mountains, with over 250,000 copies in print.

A “must-have” history for any mountaineering, western, or Colorado history collection.

• Includes every named mountain in Colorado • Detailed descriptions for classic routes • Maps, photos, and tips

• Covers explorations and surveys, Pike to Hayden • A history of early mountaineering in all the major Colorado ranges

• A superbly written and stunningly illustrated tale for children • A kid’s book to be read time after time

10th Edition Edited by Randy Jacobs with Robert Ormes

If you only allow yourself just one hiking and climbing guidebook for Colorado, make sure you have this one on your shelf. Since 1952, Guide to the Colorado Mountains has been the authoritative source on Colorado’s mountains, a must for casual hikers, peak baggers, or veteran mountaineers with over 1,500 hiking and climbing destinations—peaks, passes, lakes, and trails. 368 pages, 6 x 9, 87 black-and-white photos, 28 maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9671466-0-7, $18.95, CMC member price $15.16

The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9 By Charlie and Diane Winger A detailed guide that provides all the information a trad climber will need for Joshua Tree. • Detailed directions to locate each climb • Full-color photos of each route Many climbers who visit Joshua Tree spend as much time searching for good routes as they do actually climbing. This guidebook offers the climber a fun, varied, and challenging “tick-list” of 60 great trad climbs, and makes it easy to find your way around. With color photos of every route, detailed maps, and easy-to-follow driving and hiking instructions, you’ll be able to do numerous routes per day and make the most of your climbing trip. 192 pages, 6 x 9, 202 color photos, 12 maps, ISBN 0-9724413-9-5, 21.95, CMC member price $17.56

Colorado has some of the highest and most spectacular peaks in North America, and no other state has a longer or more bountiful mountaineering legacy. In this mountaineering classic, mountaineer and historian William M. Bueler brings this rich history to life with tales of great adventures in Colorado climbing. Combining solid research and entertaining prose, Roof of the Rockies tells the complete story of 200 years of mountaineering in the state from the early nineteenth-century explorations and discoveries to the challenges and triumphs of the present. 244 pages, 6 x 9, 24 illustrations, 79 black-and-white photos, 14 maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9671466-1-5, $16.95, CMC member price $13.56

The Stettner Way The Life and Climbs of Joe and Paul Stettner By John D. Gorby History buffs, climbers, and armchair adventurers alike won’t be able to put this book down. • A remarkable story of two early mountaineering legends, including coverage of their most significant climbs • Fifty vintage black-and-white photographs and six maps Brothers Joe and Paul Stettner were legends in the early mountaineering community, putting up some of the most difficult routes in America during a career that spanned the beginning of rock climbing in the 1920’s to well into the big-wall climbing era of the 1950s. Often considered the first true sport climbers, fellow legend Paul Petzoldt called them “human flies” for their bold and acrobatic style. 208 pages, 6 x 9, 50 black-and-white-photos, 6 maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-0-1, $14.95, CMC member price $11.96

By Michael Tennyson, Illustrated by Jennifer H.Yoswa

A beautiful new butterfly named Morpha meets Azuela who greets her with the words,“Hello little one.” Azuela, an older Blue Morpho butterfly, teaches Morpha about the cycle of life in the rain forest, starting with where to find the soft fruit to eat and how to make herself more difficult to see. Morpha learns to zig and zag to avoid hungry birds and talks to leaf cutter ants, a giant slug, and a Tarantula to learn how they are part of the cycle of life. At the end of this beautifully illustrated ecological lesson in life, an older and much wiser Morpha watches a young butterfly struggle out of its chrysalis and says,“Hello little one.You have much to learn.” 40 pages, 8.75 x 11.25, 27 color illustrations, hardback, ISBN 0-9671466-8-2, for children 6-8 years of age, $14.95, CMC member price $11.96

The Essential Guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park By John Jenkins Gunnison National Park’s Black Canyon is a recreational mecca for nearly one million visitors each year. • A complete activity and travel guide for everyone—tourist to rock climber • Full-color photos, maps, elevation profiles,“Info Charts,” tabs, and activity symbols make information quick and easy to find The recreational opportunities around Black Canyon are unsurpassed; you’ll find everything in this guide to help you enjoy your adventures in this unique 130,000-acre area—detailed route descriptions for hikers, bikers, and climbers; fascinating geologic and natural history of the area; travel information about the facilities for both camping and lodging; safety and equipment tips. In addition, there are color-coded tabs and activity symbols to make it easy to find information, plus complete park planning information, including facilities, camping, lodging, and safety and equipment tips with plenty of close-by activities and fun attractions of interest.

Written and Illustrated by Lisa Gardiner • A kid’s book about altitude that is very useful for the classroom, too • Science experiments and stories combined to illustrate the concepts of altitude • Beautifully illustrated in full color Follow along as each child shares his or her experience with altitude from the “potato chip miracle,” to living as a Sherpa in Nepal. A wonderfully illustrated book that combines a storytelling element with experiments that can be done in the classroom or at home, including: making an altimeter, weighing air mass, calculating air temperature, creating a model of the lungs, and constructing prayer flags. Each story introduces a particular concept of altitude, while the experiments allow children to demonstrate what they have learned, providing a unique learning experience that is not only informative, but fun. 48 pages, 8.5 x 11.5, 60 illustrations, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-8-7, for children 8–10 years of age, $12.95, CMC member price $10.36

The Essential Guide to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve By Charlie and Dianne Winger THE guidebook to the Sand Dunes. • Details unlimited recreational opportunities for the park’s 225,000 annual visitors • Color-coded tabs and activity symbols for quick reference Nowhere else in North America do massive desert dunes meet tall forests of evergreen and aspen that lead to the alpine tundra of the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The Sand Dunes are a gateway to camping, wildlife viewing, hiking, backpacking, climbing, mountain biking, and dare we mention—dune snowboarding. The recreational opportunities at “The Dunes” are endless. Slide down the highest sand dunes on the continent, backpack to a pristine high-country lake, or climb one of Colorado’s legendary 14,000 foot peaks. 272 pages, 6 x 9, 80 color photos, 24 color maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-1-X. $19.95, CMC member price $15.96

256 pages, 6 x 9, 65 color photos, 20 color maps, paperback, ISBN 0-9724413-4-4, $19.95, CMC member price $15.96

A mountain club by any other name

Yesteryear

By Woody Smith

SUMMER 2008 ORDER FORM S E N D O R D E R F O R M A N D PAY M E N T T O :

Colorado Mountain Club Press, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, CO 80401 1-800-633-4417, ext. 103

FAX 303-279-9690

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___ Hiking Colorado’s Roadless Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-7-9 . . . . . . $10.36 ___ Morpha: A Rain Forest Story, 0-9671466-8-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96 ___ Peaceful Canyon, Golden River, ISBN 0-9671466-5-8 . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96 ___ Playing for Real, ISBN 978-0-9760525-6-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56 ___ Rocks Above the Clouds, ISBN 978-0-9760525-8-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96 ___ Rocky Mountain Flora, ISBN 978-0-9760525-4-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36 ___ Roof of the Rockies, ISBN 0-9671466-1-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $13.56 ___ Run the Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-5-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $14.36 ___ San Juan Mountaineers, ISBN 978-0-9799663-3-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . $185.00 ___ Southern Rockies Vision, ISBN 0-9724413-6-0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96 ___ State of the Southern Rockies, ISBN 0-9724413-7-9 . . . . . . . . . . . $15.96 ___ Stettner Way, ISBN 0-9724413-0-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96 ___ Trad Guide to Joshua Tree, ISBN 0-9724413-9-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $17.56 ___ What’s Up with Altitude, ISBN 0-9724413-8-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $10.36

EXPIRATION DATE: ____________

have the other name,* and although considerable thought was given to the name of the organization when it was organized, I am inclined to think that the time has perhaps come for a change. Under the constitution a change of this sort could be made on our recommendation at the annual meeting if it has had our approval two weeks prior thereto. The annual meeting being set for the 28th we could meet next week or the week after and take action if desired. Please consider the matter and let me hear from you individually about it. The old Rocky Mountain Club** which is incorporated and at present holds the name to some extent, I am sure would be glad to surrender it to us. Yours very sincerely, James Grafton Rogers, President. Although it is not known whether the Board of directors actually voted on the name change, it obviously never occurred. Why it didn’t catch on can only be speculated, although the phrase “Rocky Mountain Club of Colorado” is certainly a mouthful. Perhaps it was as simple as the “RMCC” being harder to say than “CMC.” Or, as President Bush might say, “The forces of succinctliness have defeated the forces of unsuccinctity.” P

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___ Best Fort Collins Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-0-9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $11.96 ___ Colorado 14ers, ISBN 978-0-9760525-3-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $9.56 ___ Colorado Lake Hikes, ISBN 978-0-9799663-1-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96 ___ Colorado’s Quiet Winter Trails, ISBN 978-0-9760525-1-7. . . . . . . . . $17.56 ___ Colorado Scrambles, ISBN 0-9760525-0-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36 ___ Colorado Snow Climbs, ISBN 978-0-9760525-9-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $18.36 ___ Colorado Summit Hikes, ISBN 0-9724413-3-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16 ___ Colorado Trail, ISBN 978-0-9760525-2-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $19.96 ___ Colorado Trail Databook, ISBN 978-0-9760525-5-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . $7.96 ___ Colorado Year Round, ISBN 0-9724413-2-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16 ___ Essential Guide to Black Canyon, ISBN 0-9724413-4-4 . . . . . . . . . $15.96 ___ Essential Guide to Sand Dunes, ISBN 0-9724413-1-X. . . . . . . . . . . $15.96 ___ Flatiron Classics, ISBN 978-0-9799663-2-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $15.16 ___ Guide to the Colorado Mountains, ISBN 0-9671466-0-7 . . . . . . . . $15.16

Among the early figures of the Colorado Mountain Club, James Grafton Rodgers (1883–1971) has always been known for his judgment and vision. He was, variously, CMC president (1912–1916), Mayor of Georgetown, and president of the Colorado Bary Association. While serving as Assistant Secretary of State during the Hoover administration, Rogers became acting President of the United Statews while Hoover, the Vice President, and the Secretary of State were all away from Washington. Rogers was also president of the Colorado Historical Society and helped save the Georgetown Loop Railroad. His extensive index on Colorado place names fills six reels of microfilm. However, to the relief of the less omnicompetent, Rogers launched a dud now and then, too. One of these was captured in a letter “To the Directors of the Colorado Mountain Club” dated December 31, 1915. It reads: I wish the Board would give some thought before the next meeting to the question of the change of name of the Colorado Mountain Club. The name I would suggest would be the Rocky Mountain Club of Colorado. A large part of the mail meant for us goes to the Boulder organization for the reason that they

TOTAL $__________________

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Statement of Activities Year Ended September 30, 2007 (With Summarized Comparative Information for the Year Ended September 30, 2006)

2007 Annual Report of The Colorado Mountain Club Statement of Financial Position September 30, 2007 (With Summarized Comparative Information as of September 30, 2006) Assets: Cash and cash equivalents: Board-designated Other Accounts receivable Inventories Prepaid expenses and other assets Contributions receivable (note 2) Assets held by Colorado Mountain Club Foundation (note 6) Investment in American Mountaineering Center LLC (note 3) Investment in Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum (note 4) Furniture and equipment, less accumulated depreciation of $135,015 and $116,303 Total assets Liabilities and Net Assets: Accounts payable and accrued expenses Deferred revenue Notes payable (note 5)

2007

119,324 352,701 88,200 85,549 113,050 40,302 19,240 1,312,553

64,269 406,425 93,026 89,286 97,979 128,472 17,386 1,377,318

784,373

239,084

190,187

139,288

3,105,479

2,652,533

109,073 141,685 326,052

68,915 135,410 -

576,810

204,325

Total liabilities Net assets (note 6): Unrestricted: Undesignated Board designated for: American Mountaineering Center CMC Press Endowment Total unrestricted net assets Temporarily restricted Permanently restricted Total net assets Commitments (notes 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8) Total liabilities and net assets

2006

2,261,446

2,154,085

67,832 30,000 16,020 2,375,298 134,131 19,240

64,269 16,020 2,234,374 196,448 17,386

2,528,669

2,448,208

3,105,479

2,652,533

Revenues, Gains and Support: Contributions $ Scientific and Cultural Facilities District support Registration fees Membership dues Tuition from schools Advertising Other Merchandise sales Permanently restricted net assets released from donor-imposed restrictions: Grant distributions Net assets released from restrictions due to satisfaction of program restrictions Total revenues, gains and support Expenses: Program services: Cultural & educational activities Publications Conservation Museum Cost of merchandise sales Other Total program services Supporting services: General and administrative Fund raising Total supporting services Total expenses Change in net assets Net assets, beginning of year Net assets, end of year

2007 Temporarily Permanently Unrestricted Restricted Restricted 45,071 160,929 499,621 423,998 118,941 9,954 48,272 140,967

593,441 -

2,108

1,854 2,108 (2,108)

Total

2006 Total

640,366 160,929 499,621 423,998 118,941 9,954 50,380 140,967

418,934 151,315 513,749 458,825 105,507 6,048 34,435 149,172

655,758

(655,758)

2,105,619

(62,317)

1,854

2,045,156

1,837,985

592,109 164,838 164,756 13,865 94,441 375,432 1,405,441

678,443 249,880 158,501 160,909 65,237 304,668 1,617,638

243,849 103,208 347,057

205,096 65,385 270,481

1,964,695

1,675,922

140,924

(62,317)

1,854

80,461

162,063

2,234,374 $ 2,375,298

196,448 134,131

17,386 19,240

2,448,208 2,528,669

2,286,145 2,448,208

The Board of Directors of the CMC hired Kundinger, Corder & Engle, P.C., to perform the annual audit of the club’s nancial position and the related activities and cash ows for the year ending September 30, 2006. This report represents the activities of the CMC including the local Groups’ activities. The audit rm planned and performed the audit to obtain reasonable assurance about whether the nancial statements are free of material misstatements. The audit included examining the evidence supporting the amounts and disclosures in the nancial statements. The audit also assessed the accounting principles used and signicant estimates made by management as well as evaluating the overall nancial statement presentation. The board reviewed and accepted the statements at a meeting held on January 19, 2008. To view the complete Annual Report of The Colorado Mountain Club, including a list of all donors, please visit the CMC website at http://www.cmc.org/about/about_govdocs.aspx or click About Us: Governing Documents.

Adventure Travel trips are open to Colorado Mountain Club members. Guests are accepted at the discretion of the leader. Most trips require a non-refundable deposit at sign up. Contact Adventure Travel coordinator Bea Slingsby for more information at (303) 422-3728 or e-mail beahive@comcast.net.

AdventureTravel

Muztagh Ata 7,546 meters July 1–24, 2008 • $5,480 This expedition to China is the first ever High Altitude Mountaineering Section trip to that country. Muztagh is located in northwest China near the borders with Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. At 24,758´, it is the 43rd highest mountain in the world and is located near Silk Road ruins and cultural sites. The route involves minimal exposure in the upper 1,000+ meters of the climb. Summer weather on the mountain is generally benign, but snowfall can occur at any time of the year. Participants should have previous climbing experience above 18,000´ and preferably camping experience at 15,000´ or higher. Climbers not known to the leaders will provide a climbing resume and references. Preference will be given to graduates of a CMC High Altitude or Advanced Mountaineering School, or to instructors in those schools. Cost includes international air fare to Kashgar; hotel in Kashgar; transport to Base Camp and return; airport transfers; all permits & liaison officer fees; full board at Base Camp; guide service on the mountain; Chinese visa; limited leader expenses; and CMC fee. Cost does not include rental or purchase of equipment; food on the mountain above Base Camp; evacuation or other insurance; use of porters; souvenir purchases; or bar tab. Final cost may vary depending on air fares and currency exchange rates (guide cost is priced in Euros). For an application packet, please contact Steve at P.O. Box 280286, Lakewood CO 80228-0286 or via e-mail at nztrekker@earthlink.net. No phone calls please. If an application is submitted, please include a deposit check for $300 made out to CMC and noting “Muztagh/China Outing” in the remarks line. The check will be returned if the applicant is not accepted for the trip; otherwise, the deposit is non-refundable subject to the trip cancellation policy contained in the packet.

CMC 2008 in-state outing

July 19–26 and July 26–Aug. 2 • $352/week The CMC In-State Outing will be in the Collegiate Range northwest of Buena Vista. This hiking and camping excursion is open to CMC members throughout the state. John Clay will be the camp director and Mibby Lewis will be serving gourmet meals. Outing headquarters will be at Vicksburg, along Clear Creek, just north of Mts. Missouri, Belford, and Oxford. There will be good opportunities for hiking, climbing, fishing, wild-flower viewing, birding, and stargazing. Various levels of hikes will be scheduled every day, including hiking the nearby fourteeners. CMC’ers need provide their own hiking and camping equipment, although there are a few spaces available in club tents for $30 per person or $50 per family per week. Children are welcome.

For more information, call John at (970) 731-3850 or email him at jjclay@localnet.com.

Climbs in the Alps, Zermatt, Switzerland area: August 9–24, 2008 Estimated Cost: $900 + airfare + huts + trams + some meals We will go to Zermatt and climb whatever the weather will permit. Due to the fickle nature of the weather in the Alps, it will be difficult to plan specific peaks to climb. Options include: Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Dom, Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, and many others. Climbs are mostly D-E difficult. Climbers should be recent graduates of CMC BMS or HAMS or possess recent equivalent experience or training. We will rent an apartment in Zermatt as a base camp and decide when to climb which peaks when we get there based on the current weather and climbing conditions. In addition to the trip cost, climbers should budget: $1200–$1500 for airfare, up to $700 for huts and tram/train rides, up to $500 for meals in Zermatt. $2600 - $3500 estimated total cost for the entire trip. For a n application packet, please contact Bill Blazek via email at wjb@pcisys.net, strongly preferred, or 11966 West Bowles Circle, Littleton, Colorado 80127. No phone calls please.

Yellowstone National Park August 30 to Sept. 6, 2008 • $311 Famous for its scenic mountains, alpine lakes, lush meadows, geothermal features, and wildlife, Yellowstone offers one of the best wilderness experiences in the country. Join other club members as we visit this special place and discover its hidden treasures. The group will carpool from Denver and spend the first night at a campground inside the park. Then we backpack for 6 days/5 nights, exploring remote areas that few people see. Fishing opportunities at campsites. After hiking out, we begin the drive back home, staying at a motel (shared lodging) along the way. Participants must be experienced backpackers and able to hike 10 miles per day at a moderate pace with up to 1,500 feet daily elevation change. All hiking will be on trail except for some easy river fords. Payment covers all expenses except food. Limit 8. Pretrip meeting in August. Full payment of $311 ($75 nonrefundable) due upon registration. For more information or to sign up, contact Tim Musil (303) 384-3521 or tmusil@comcast.net.

Ladakh India Sept. 2–19, 2008 • $4875 We will visit ancient Buddist gompas, participate in the Ladakh festival, gaze in awe at the Taj Mahal, and trek in the remote Ladakh Mountains. We might even get to see the Dali Lama speak near his home. Our trip will include a 7-day trek from Hemis to Stok, 4-days of Ladakh cultural events and a visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal. The trek ranges in altitude from 12,000 to 17,000 feet. We will acclimatize in Leh (11,800 feet) and then gain altitude slowly over the course of several days. Trip Length: 17 days. Cost: $4875. Costs includes: Trek, cultural activities, some meals, in-

country transportation and lodging, visas, tips, and airfare (roundtrip from Denver to Leh via Delhi). Final costs may vary slightly depending upon airfares and currency exchange rates. Prerequisites: Very good physical shape, C level hiker or leaders approval, able to hike at altitudes, and attendance at 2 required training hikes designed for this trip. Contact info: Leaders: Heidi Baruch and Joshua Baruch. (303) 413-0205. Please call Heidi for information and application. Group size will be limited to 12 participants, plus 2 leaders.

Everest region trek and Island Peak climb Sept. 27–Oct. 18, 2008 $2310 for trekkers, and $2490 for climbers CMC trip leader Pemba Sherpa, who grew up in the Khumbu in the Himalaya, will lead the classic trek in the Everest region, including Chukkung ri, with an optional climb of Island Peak. In addition, spend a day visiting the village where Pemba grew up and having dinner with his mother! This classic Nepal experience will take you into the heart of the Himalayas, a unique chance for beginning mountaineers to climb in a lesser traveled region. The summit of Island Peak, adjacent to one of the world’s largest ice walls, offers stunning views of Ama Dablam and the pyramid of Makalu. This trip walks us through the renowned Khumbu region. Partake in Nepalese and Tibetan cultures as they have existed for centuries. The Khumbu journey offers striking scenery as we venture through unspoiled terrain. This trip is open to trekkers and Climbers The cost is For more information please call Pemba Sherpa (303) 525-6508, E-mail: pemba@sherpaascent.com.

Day Hiking In Tasmania January 31–February 14, 2009 $1,200 Land + Air (Est $2000) We will explore the unique island of Tasmania, Australia’s island state, in this all new trip. Tasmania was the last land mass to break off from Antarctica, and things there are truly different. We’ll start in Launceston, and head for the east coast, stopping at Douglas Apsley Nat’l Park to view the gorge and stop at a nature park to visit some Tasmanian Devils. Hike in the Hazard Mountains in Freycinet Natl. Park. Exploring the Tasman peninsula, we’ll hike to Cape Hauy and visit Port Arthur. In Hobart, we can hike Mt. Wellington and visit the Salamanca Market. We’ll head inland to hike in Mt Field Nat’l Park and Lake St Clair. Then we’ll drive north into Cradle Mountain. Most meals will be prepared by the group; shopping will be done locally. Hikes will be MOD to DIF B. Lodging will be hostels, cabins (some bunk beds) and one private hotel, all with shared bathrooms. Included in the cost is lodging, van transportation, park entrance fees, twelve breakfasts, nine lunches, eight dinners, leader reimbursement, and CMC fees. Final cost may vary slightly based on currency exchange rate and fuel costs. Not included: airfare, Australia visa ($20-available on line), travel insurance, several meals, personal spending money. For information, call Janet Farrar 303-933-3066 or e-mail wildjc@juno.com after April 30.

Kilimanjaro 19,340´

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February 7–21, 2009 $5,250, incl. air SAFETY NOTE: political violence in East Africa is confined to Kenya. Tanzania is not affected and likely will not be. We will offer the optional third week extension to Mt. Kenya again if the situation stabilizes. This is the 7th Kilimanjaro trip sponsored by the CMC’s High Altitude Mountaineering Section. Kili is the world’s largest free-standing mountain and one of the fabled Seven Summits. We take the Machame Route and stay at the famous Marangu Hotel, first visited by Club members in the 1950s. The trip includes a four-day budget safari to Serengeti, Lake Manyara, and Ngorongoro Crater. A series of training & getacquainted hikes will be offered beginning in October. Nights are a mixture of a rustic hotel with full amenities, travelers camps, and tent camping. Excellent physical conditioning is required, and a high comfort level with 3rd world travel. Price includes air fare, lodging, ground transport, visa costs, Park fees, most meals, leader expenses, and CMC fee. Cost does not include shots, medications, travel insurance, bar tab, excess baggage fees, and a few meals. Final cost may vary slightly depending on air fares and currency exchange. Trip packets are available by regular mail only after March 15 from the trip leader, Steve Bonowski, at nztrekker@ earthlink.net, or P.O. Box 280286, Lakewood CO 80228. No phone calls please.

Best of the Grand Canyon: Colorado River raft & hike April 25–May 7, 2009 • $3,820 Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, this unique trip to the Grand Canyon offers participants the opportunity to experience this World Heritage Site on a motorized raft for 188 miles through the best of the canyon, departing from the historic Lee’s Ferry and ending with a helicopter ride from Whitmore Wash and a plane flight back to the start. It is especially ideal for those who would like to hike in areas which can be reached only from the river, and those who have always wanted to experience the canyon but who do not wish to make the 7 mile, 4,500´ backpack in and out. Our outfitter, Hatch River Expeditions, has been guiding river trips through the canyon for over 70 years. We will have 3 guides and 20 participants on two 35´ S-rig boats running 30 hp 4-stroke outboard engines (fuel efficient and quiet). The average motorized raft trip through the Grand Canyon runs 7 days, so this 12-day trip will have plenty of opportunities for hiking. Hatch offers us daily guided hikes at 2 or 3 hiking levels, or one can choose to rest in camp. There are several opportunities for point-to-point hikes where we may hike from one drainage to the next, and the raft will pick us up later in the day. The deposit is $300. Please see website for cancellation policy, payment schedule, and additional information. Register with leaders: Blake Clark and Rosemary Burbank: (303) 871-0379 or blakerosemary@cs.com.

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Trip to the heart of Europe from Prague to national parks of the Czech Republic

May 23–June 6, 2009 • $1950 This trip is for those who would like to explore nature, culture and history in a tiny country located in the center of Europe. As a native from this country, I selected a variety of attractive destinations and hikes in different National Parks. We will start by discovering the beauty of Prague. On the way south, we will visit one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, Cesky Krumlov. We will travel to Sumava National Park and hike in a pristine forested mountain range with deep dark lakes and fascinating moors. We will stop to see world famous Pilsner Urquel brewery as beer is an essential part of Czech culture. We will explore sandstone formations in Nature

Reserve Czech Paradise, famous among local climbers. We will traverse the Krkonose mountain range and stay in a well equipped hut on the ridge. We will climb Mount Snezka (5256feet) in this National Park, the high point of Czech Republic. The cost of trip includes lodging in hotels and huts, transportation in Czech, breakfast and some meals. The price does not include airfare or travel insurance. The final cost may vary depending on currency exchange. Hikes up to B and C level. Maximum number of participant 15. For more information contact the leaders, John or Renata Collard: (303) 617-4773 or renata.collard@uchsc. edu. P

CMC Youth Education Program By Krista Javoronok

Join the CMCís Youth Education Program for rock climbing and outdoor adventures this summer. Space is still available for weekend field trips and M–F instructional courses designed for youth. YEP-trained and friendly staff specializes in working with youth ages 8–16 years. Join us for an adventure in the foothills and learn new skills including rock climbing, wilderness survival, navigation, plant identification, and more. All courses and classes are based out of the American Mountaineering Center, located in downtown Golden. Dates: Intro to Rock Climbing: July 7–11 8:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; Intermediate Rock Climbing: July 14–18; 8:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Mountain Explorers: July 21–25; 9:00 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Meet the Mountains: July 16–18 and Aug 13–15; 9:00 a.m.–3:00 p.m. Mountain Ecology Hike: Saturday, July 29 from 8:00 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Mother and Daughter Intro to Climbing: Saturday, August 16 from 8:00 a.m.–3:30 p.m. For information check out www.cmc.org/yep or contact Krista Javoronok at (303) 996-2747 or email yep_summer@cmc.org. P

COLLECTOR’S EDITION

The Pioneering Book on Colorado Mountaineering San Juan Mountaineers’ Guide to Southwestern Colorado By Dwight Lavender, Carleton Long and Mel Griffiths The Colorado Mountain Club Press is pleased to announce the publication of a limited edition of 200, slip-cased, hand-bound, numbered, replicas of the pioneering title in Colorado mountaineering: San Juan Mountaineers’ Guide to Southwestern Colorado. In 1933 the first climber’s guide to southwestern Colorado was produced on a typewriter. The authors assembled the typed pages, added carefully annotated topos with inked-in routes plus 21 pages of photos. Once the three books were collated the authors had the books hand-bound for use by climbers. As climbers used the books, the authors made corrections and additions in both pencil and ink. The Colorado Mountain Club Press edition of this mountaineering classic will faithfully reproduce the typescript pages with annotations, the color topos with inked-in routes and the photographs. Dwight Lavender, brother of well-known Colorado author David Lavender, was the driving force and inspiration for this book. Dwight, along with Carlton Long and Mel Griffiths, composed a volume that has served as reference source for climbers and many subsequent guidebooks including Robert Ormes’ many editions of Guide to the Colorado Mountains. The authors, Lavender, Long and Griffiths were central figures in a group of climbers loosely associated under the name of the San Juan Mountaineers. These climbers explored, named, and even resurveyed most of the mountains in southwestern Colorado.

Only 200 copies of San Juan Mountaineers’ Guide to Southwestern Colorado will be published in this replica edition. The book will only be available from CMC Press at a prepublication price of $170 and $185 after publication in June. Contact CMC Press sales manager, Robin Commons for further information at 303-996-2743. 320 pages, 6x9, 25 pages of B&W photos, 21 color maps, hardback with slipcase, numbered 1 through 200, $170 before publication, $185 at publication. A sample page and map from the book.

Summer in the Tetons

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