20 minute read
Wild colorado
WILD
coLoraDo
by ELIsabEth kWak-hEffEran photography by chrIs casE (unless otherwise noted ) Deluge Lake sits under a ring of peaks, including snow peak (right), in the Eagles nest Wilderness.
I’m a checklist kind of hiker. Sunblock? Check. Headlamp, just in case? Check. annotated route description copied from a guidebook? Check. not having a plan makes me nervous. yet somehow, deep in the eagles nest Wilderness with no way to pinpoint my location on a map, i couldn’t be more relaxed—or happier.
We didn’t set out to scramble so high and so far off-trail. We thought we were taking a short dayhike around Piney lake, a lovely pool just north of vail. Then we saw the sheer peaks rising beyond the lake, and the trail tracing the shoreline. One of the four of us said, “Hey, why don’t we see where that goes?” So we did. nobody had a map. nobody even knew the name of the trail. but we were loaded with Jetboiled coffee and the sky was blue— what else did we need? We took off at a trot, dodging tree roots and rising steadily above the flower-filled meadow, just wondering what was around the next corner.
The funny thing about hiking is that it sometimes turns into a sort of competition with yourself. you check the map to see how long it is until that next landmark, or to calculate how quickly you’re moving. you tread through a meadow or climb up a slope with your thoughts focused on anticipating what lies ahead. but when you strike out into unknown territory, you have no idea how many miles there are to go or what your destination looks like. When you’ve chosen the unknown, there is no destination except right where you are.
We climbed higher. The patchy June snow piles became more and more frequent. We’d lose the trail under two feet of lingering snow, only to find it again farther up. until we looked at each other and realized the trail was gone for good. Turn back? “nah,” one of us said. “let’s just see what’s up here.” in this wilderness, it didn’t even feel like hiking anymore. it felt like exploring.
We peeled off to the left, picking our way through the woods and climbing over boulders. The valley was steep-sided and the surrounding peaks impossible to lose—we knew we’d be able to find our way back. The terrain got lovelier and more rugged with every vertical foot. but when we began to arc around to the other side of the valley, we knew we were only scratching the surface of this place. ahead, a glimpse of the eagles nest’s wild core: soaring, brutal peaks crowned with white far in the distance, like the Himalayas making a cameo in the Colorado rockies. i stared, astonished. i didn’t know what summits they were, or what valley we were above, or where exactly our position would be on a map. i just wanted to keep going.
tEn rEasons
Wilderness is meant to do just that—awaken that sense of wonder and exploration so easily blunted by the 9-to-5 routines we live every day…serve as a refuge for us to wander and dream.
So, in a spirit of celebration for those wild places, we offer the ten best places to go to explore the wilderness of Colorado.
How could one ever choose the best wilderness areas in a state so crammed with them? We asked ourselves just what it is that we look for in wilderness, then came up with five key points to help us evaluate Colorado’s 3.7 million acres. These helped narrow the field to an elite list of contenders. in the end, though, it simply came down to the ten reserves that we thought had a certain something—a je ne sais quoi that set them apart and made them the absolute best.
Don’t agree with our picks? Of course you don’t. That’s the beauty of it. but how many americans can say they live in a state with so many superlative wilderness areas that agreeing on the top ten is next to impossible?
Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan is a freelance writer based in Boulder. Since researching this story, she is counting the days until she can continue her search for the perfect wilderness moment in the Weminuche this summer.
thE crItErIa
Each ranked on a 1 to 5 scale, 5 being highest quality. Solitude Does it offer a chance to escape the crowds? Size How many acres are there? AcceSS Can it be reached easily by road? Are trails widely distributed throughout the wilderness? eScApe Regardless of location, does the area feel remote? Does it provide opportunities to explore areas “untrammeled by man”? RecReAtion Are there opportunities to enjoy multiple activities like hiking, climbing, paddling, and fishing?
coLoraDo’s top tEn WILDErnEss arEas*
WEmInuchE WILDErnEss
Solitude - 4 Size - 5 AcceSS - 5 eScApe - 4 RecReAtion - 4 HigHligHtS - Largest wilderness in the state; varied ecosystems mention the Weminuche to any backpacker and just watch his eyes get dreamy: This expansive, shockingly gorgeous preserve in the San Juan mountains has enough thrilling peaks, raging rivers, and thriving wildlife to satisfy a lifetime’s worth of wanderlust.
What makes Colorado’s largest wilderness (488,210 acres) so special? For one, it’s the scenery: you’d have to head to the Grand Tetons to find peaks to match these vertiginous turrets. and it’s the height: an average elevation of 10,000 feet and sections of trail that let hikers wander above treeline for days. it’s also the access: 475 trail miles lace the valleys and ridges, including 80 miles of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT). Don’t forget the variety: “The western edge is extremely rugged, with lots of cliff faces, peaks that are difficult to climb, and high passes,” says John bregar, chair of the CmC’s San Juan chapter. “The eastern part is much gentler, more rolling, and very volcanic.” all that, and you can ride the Durango-Silverton narrow Gauge railroad to the trailhead.
The Weminuche’s appeal is no secret (it’s the most-visited wilderness in the state), but with almost half a million acres at play, hikers and backpackers can find their own private paradise if they steer clear of especially popular areas like Chicago basin and the CDT. See it experienced climbers can follow the footsteps of one of bregar’s recent expeditions: a climb of spectacular Jagged mountain. Take the narrow gauge to needleton and hike/ bushwhack your way up the animas river to its junction with noname Creek. Continue up noname Creek to a meadow at 11,000 feet—your basecamp for exploring fifth-class Jagged, leviathan Peak, and Peak Six, among others. Or simply lounge at basecamp, admiring the ring of world-class peaks around your tent.
coLLEgIatE pEaks WILDErnEss
Solitude - 2 Size - 4 AcceSS - 5 eScApe - 3 RecReAtion - 3 HigHligHtS - Cloud-scraping elevation; quiet lakes and valleys
Want to show visitors what Colorado mountains are all about? look no farther than the Collegiate Peaks. looming above the arkansas river valley like titans, mounts Harvard, yale, Princeton and the rest form what’s said to be the highest-average-elevation wilderness in the state. With eight fourteeners—including Colorado’s third- and fifth-tallest peaks (mount Harvard at 14,420’ and la Plata Peak at 14,336’)—and six more summits that top 13,800’, the Collegiates are big-mountain scenery at its best. Forty miles of the Continental Divide Trail wind through this exposed paradise, opening up opportunities for extended trips.
Though a spider web of access roads makes penetrating the 167,414 acres a snap, the craggy cirques and quiet lakes tucked at the foot of the mountains can feel a million miles from civilization. all those fourteeners draw the crowds during summer peakbagging season, but backpackers who venture away from the approach trails can still find solitude, even in July and august. See it backpack the 3-mile lake ann Trail through marshy ponds with killer views of the spiky Three apostles. Set up camp on a grassy hill above the lake, then hike the short but strenuous spur trail to the pass for sweeping views stretching to the Taylor reservoir. itching for elevation? Wake up early and bag 14,005’ mount Huron on the way out. Or if you like to start high, depart from Cottonwood Pass and drop into a lush valley on one of several trails.
the titans of the collegiate peaks Wilderness.
grEat sanD DunEs natIonaL park & prEsErvE
The last thing one might expect to spot in the heart of the San luis valley is a towering sand dune, but that’s exactly what awaits the intrepid hiker in this southern Colorado wilderness. make that lots of sand dunes—30 square miles of them—nestled against the serrated edges of the Sangre de Cristo range. This mini Sahara hosts the tallest dunes in north america, plus a splashworthy beach in may and June and neck-craning views of the Crestones.
These anomalous sand piles are thought to have formed when prevailing winds carried sediments left behind by an ancient sea to this site, depositing so much that it began to pile up—way up. Star Dune, the highest in the wilderness, is 750 feet tall. no trails exist in these sands, so visitors are free to wander at will through the dunes. and if hikers balk at the heart-pounding challenge that is climbing a shifting dune, consider this: you can carve turns on skis or snowboard (or just a plain old sled) back down for a sweet return on the effort.
The Star Wars-esque landscape isn’t the only unique thing about Great Sand Dunes. Seven endemic (meaning they exist nowhere else on earth) species of insect make their homes in the park, including the iridescent Great Sand Dunes tiger beetle and the inch-long robber fly. See it The backcountry sites along the dunes’ edge and into the alpine forest are wonderful, as is Pinyon Flats Campground. but to really experience the dunes, just lose yourself in their folds. backpackers can camp anywhere outside of the day use area (about 1.5 miles in) with a free permit. load your pack with water, strike out in any direction, then get ready for some of the most intense solitude, quiet— and in-your-face stargazing— anywhere in Colorado.
EagLEs nEst WILDErnEss
Solitude - 5 Size - 4 AcceSS - 2 eScApe - 5 RecReAtion - 3 HigHligHtS - Sheer, stunning scenery; utter solitude
it’s just a few miles from i-70, but you’d never know this dense collection of jagged peaks, plunging waterfalls, and challenging mountaineering routes was there if you weren’t looking for it. For some reason, this gorgeous corner of the Gore range remains a secret. Could it be the fact that the eagles nest’s alpine interior remains largely untracked, thanks to its trail-defying vertical relief? Or is it the heavy snow that sticks to the landscape well into summer before it melts and feeds the reserve’s glittering creeks (and eventually, the Colorado river)?
The reason doesn’t matter—what matters is that this postcard-pretty wilderness will be all yours if you dare to venture into its wild center. This 133,471-acre spot has just 180 miles of trail, and only two trails cross the entire wilderness at the north and south ends. mountaineers and climbers come to ascend the Gore’s peaks, like range high point mount Powell (13,534 feet; first conquered by John Wesley Powell in 1868) or challenging Peak C. Hikers and backpackers with strong quads will find unique alpine beauty along Slate Creek, Gore Creek, and up to Deluge lake, among others. See it Starting from moose-infested Piney lake, hike north along the Soda lakes Trail to the Piney lake Trail. you’ll walk along a steep slope with expansive views down to the valley’s lush floor, popping in and out of conifer forest. Camp in one of the sheltered nooks along the way, or go deeper for a glimpse of the really stunning peaks to the east.
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Trail & Timberline
bLack canyon of thE gunnIson WILDErnEss
Solitude - 4 Size - 1 AcceSS - 2 eScApe - 5 RecReAtion - 5 HigHligHtS - Extremely deep, narrow canyon scenery; adrenaline sports
Just outside montrose, the earth opens in a rocky gash. Sheer cliffs plunge as far as 2,400 feet to raging river rapids below, extending for 53 miles through the pinyon-covered hills. This improbably deep ravine is just 1,100 feet across at the rim at its narrowest spot; it squeezes to a claustrophobic 40 feet wide down at the river. This is the black Canyon of the Gunnison, and it’s the deepest narrow canyon in north america. Worn into the area’s Precambrian gneiss by thousands of years of erosive action, the canyon lures adventurers and scenery buffs alike to peer into its unmatched depths. everything about the black is extreme. among rock climbers, it’s famous for its 145 routes—the easiest of which are rated 5.8. The majority of the park’s climbs (117 of them) are multipitch traditional routes that rank 5.10 and higher. For paddlers, the Gunnison river is the ultimate proving ground: it’s a long, strenuous trip through class v rapids punctured by unrunnable stretches of wild river. The black attracts only the stoutest of hikers willing to brave the precipitous, unmaintained trails to the inner canyon and the five-foot-tall poison ivy choking the routes. even fishing this wilderness is extreme: Some of the state’s biggest trout live here, free from overfishing pressures and nourished by a protein-rich diet. See it experience the canyon from above on the north rim Trail, which winds through pinyon and juniper to the park’s best views at exclamation Point. anyone who dares to explore the inner canyon should chat with rangers about the safest routes before embarking.
the veins of the painted Wall
uncompahgrE WILDErnEss
Solitude - 4 Size - 3 AcceSS - 4 eScApe - 4 RecReAtion - 4 HigHligHtS - Volcanic landscape; solitude; climbing opportunities
Though it’s one of seven wilderness areas in the San Juan range, this northern corner of the region would never get lost in the crowd. From the craggy volcanic rock that composes the area’s summits to the banded stone pillars forming its unmistakable “rock castles,” the uncompahgre has a landscape all its own. “There are really jagged, razortooth-type spires that separate all the valleys up there,” notes bill leo, owner of nearby Ouray mountain Sports. not only that, there are rushing trout streams slicing through the region from north to south and mining ghost towns dotting the periphery. and of course, an area touted as the “Switzerland of america” wouldn’t be complete without alpine challenge: 25 peaks higher than 13,000 feet, and two popular 14ers—Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 feet) and uncompahgre Peak (14,309 feet). “The north side is very seldom traveled,” says leo. “it’s definitely not as crowded as some of the other areas” in the San Juans. and the uncompahgre (known as the big blue Wilderness until 1993, when Congress added a chunk of bureau of land management land to the reserve) offers license to roam on its 150 miles of hiking and horse trails. backpacking loops tracing the wilderness’s north-south river valleys are plentiful, and advanced climbers and mountaineers seeking to add another feather to their caps can tackle routes on Chimney Peak, Courthouse mountain, and Coxcomb mountain, among many others. See it leo sends his backpacking customers up the middle Fork of the Cimarron Trail and back down the east Fork of the Cimarron for a weekend loop that cruises past the uncompahgre’s signature volcanic spires and rocky pinnacles. These routes also offer access to 13,590-foot matterhorn Peak, plus Wetterhorn and uncompahgre peaks.
mount massIvE WILDErnEss
Solitude - 2 Size - 1 AcceSS - 3 eScApe - 4 RecReAtion - 4 HigHligHtS - High-mountain views; year-round recreation
From the top of 14,421-foot mt. massive, the landscape turns into a polychrome sea of peaks extending in all directions. With all the red, purple, and brownish summits stretching underfoot—the peaks of the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness lie due west and the San isabel national Forest is just south—a lucky hiker just might feel on top of the world. indeed, it’s tough to get much higher. There are just two superior summits in the lower 48—mt. elbert, rising 12 feet taller just to the south, and California’s mt. Whitney, which bests massive by 74 feet.
The mount massive Wilderness is noteworthy, above all else, for the sheer enormity of the Sawatch summits found there. mt. massive itself boasts seven distinct summits above 14,000 feet. unlike the sheer or jagged profiles cut by many of Colorado’s mountains, the Sawatch peaks feature gentle but gigantic slopes. This makes them nontechnical climbs, but also includes miles of above-treeline hiking—so get an early start. One drawback is that massive’s fourteener status makes it a well-traveled peak; be prepared to share the trail. Those looking for a less crowded experience can travel the 10 miles of the Colorado Trail that slice through the eastern part of the wilderness, explore Swamp lakes, native lakes, or north Halfmoon lakes, or bundle up for a winter cross-country ski or snowshoe trip on the network of trails that begin at the leadville national Fish Hatchery. See it The 14-mile round-trip hike to massive’s summit is grueling at times, but utterly worth the climb. Start the straightforward walk-up from the mt. massive-mt. elbert Trailhead and track through lodgepole pine, spruce, and fir until breaking out onto open tundra. you’ll share the saddle below the summit ridge with sunbathing marmots before scrambling the remaining distance to the top.
the broad expanse of mount massive (center) is framed by the colorful rock of mount Elbert.
bLack rIDgE canyons WILDErnEss
Solitude - 2 Size - 2 AcceSS - 4 eScApe - 3 RecReAtion - 3 HigHligHtS - Redrock scenery; desert wildlife; classic Colorado River floating in a state where canyon-country wilderness areas already stand out, black ridge Canyons shines far above the rest. This 75,439acre preserve straddles the Colorado-utah border and boasts rattlesnake arches, the second-largest concentration of rock arches in the world, thousand-foot-deep redrock canyons, stellar paddling opportunities, waterfalls, and even habitat for the rare short-tailed black swallow butterfly. no fewer than seven redrock canyons penetrate the wilderness (part of mcGinnis Canyons national Conservation area). ranging from a few miles to 12 miles in length, these canyons offer a glimpse of classic Southwestern scenery right here in Colorado: scooped-out
rattlesnake arch
nooks known as giant alcoves, soaring rock spires, and graduated orange cliffs. Waterfalls splash over pouroffs during spring runoff and after summer storms. Desert bighorn sheep, mountain lions, peregrine falcons, and golden and bald eagles all call the black ridge Canyons home. Hikers can explore the canyon systems from several Fruita-area trailheads, or, even better, start the trails from the Colorado river on the north side of the wilderness. rafters flock to this hotspot for mellow paddling through Horsethief and ruby canyons and easy access to the mouths of several standout rifts, including rattlesnake, mee, and Jones canyons. See it Put in at loma, just northwest of Fruita, and float the Colorado 26 miles to Westwater ranger Station just over the state line. make a weekend of it by camping in one of the side canyons. One can’t-miss destination: rattlesnake arches. See the dozen sandstone arches on a strenuous hike from Flume Creek Canyon, a half-mile walk from the 4WD Hunter access road, or a steep climb from the Colorado river through rattlesnake Canyon.
nEvEr summEr WILDErnEss
Solitude - 4 Size - 1 AcceSS - 5 eScApe - 4 RecReAtion - 4 HigHligHtS - Deserted trails; giant trees
Sometimes it pays to be overshadowed. most visitors to northern Colorado get absorbed by american favorite rocky mountain national Park, never making it over Trail ridge road to the west side of the preserve—let alone to the never Summers. This snowy collection of peaks lies immediately west of rocky mountain, but few venture far into its lush, marshy depths. They’re missing prime habitat for moose, black bear, and elk, plus excellent trout streams, lovely tarns, and challenging summits. never Summer is right: This 21,090-acre escape draws plenty of powder that lingers into the warmer months, feeding the wilderness’s ponds and streams and eventually flowing into the Colorado, Cache la Poudre, and north Platte rivers. it’s also home to 17 peaks higher than 12,000 feet, some with suitably cloudscraping names (mt. Cumulous and mt. Cirrus). and the lower ecosystems rising out of the Kawuneeche valley have their own appeal: 600-year-old conifer trees, some with trunk diameters reaching four feet across. The drawback? The pine beetle epidemic has hit this region hard, leaving swaths of dead trees behind. See it Traverse the entire wilderness from north to south by linking the never Summer Trail with the bowen Pass Trail. From the lake agnes Trailhead in the Colorado State Forest, walk about a mile to lake agnes, then hook up with never Summer just beyond. you’ll meander high above treeline, then turn right on the baker Gulch Trail to Parika lake. Climb above the lake and hike cross-country along the Continental Divide to connect with bowen Pass Trail and your shuttle car.
John Fielder
the never summer range
Sasha Nelson
fLat tops WILDErnEss
Solitude - 5 Size - 5 AcceSS - 3 eScApe - 4 RecReAtion - 4 HigHligHtS - Lush, open terrain packed with wildlife and lakes
The Flat Tops Wilderness, part of the White river Plateau, is tucked away to the northwest of the state, keeping most Front rangers at bay. all the better for the John Fielder few who do venture into this vast, subalpine tundra of rolling green hills, basalt lava cliffs, and hundreds of fishable lakes and streams. Within its 235,214 acres (it’s the second-largest wilderness in Colorado), hikers will find two rare luxuries: wide-open, fairly mellow terrain and many opportunities to link trails into loop hikes.
Wildlife lovers won’t be disappointed, either: The Flat Tops are also known for the elk herds that roam the region—sometimes up to 20,000 animals in the summer—plus black bear, coyote, and deer. about 110 lakes and ponds, plus 100 streams, offer up cutthroat, brook, rainbow, and brown trout. “almost anyplace that you find a stream, even a small one, you’re probably going to find cutthroats,” says al marlowe, author of Fly-Fishing the Flat Tops. and thrill seekers can also find a fix in the northern part of the wilderness on the Devil’s Causeway, a narrow band of rock—three feet wide in places—with 500-foot drops on either side. Take a deep breath and chinese Wall walk carefully. See it Trappers lake—a gorgeous tarn framed by volcanic cliffs—is rightfully popular. For a quieter experience, head west to the east marvine Trailhead. you’ll trace east marvine Creek as you climb up to the rolling tundra, a paradise landscape of tiny lakes and peaceful wooded campsites. rise early on day two to summit 11,879-foot big marvine Peak, a walk-up with eagle-eye views of the verdant hills all around. Continue south, then west on the marvine Trail to close the loop.
trappers peak
What about thE InDIan pEaks?
Wondering why some of your favorites didn’t make our list? Some of Colorado’s most epic landscapes—such as the indian Peaks, maroon bells-Snowmass, and rocky mountain national Park—are teeming with tourists and locals who dig the easy access and world-class alpine attractions of these wilderness areas. Our picks offer equally superlative scenery without the crowds. and by all means explore the more popular wilderness areas, too: Try hiking in early summer and fall, and snowshoeing or skiing in the winter, to get away from it all. △
shoshoni peak (center) looms over Lake Isabelle, in the Indian peaks Wilderness.
