Chateaux & Castles - Winter 2020

chateaux &castles winter 2020

volume 2 • issue 1

GRAND TOUR OF

SWITZERLAND

CHATEAU DE CHAMBORD ROYAL SCHWANGAU THE HISTORY OF HALLSTATT

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CHATEAUX & CASTLES QUARTERLY

Winter 2020 Volume 2 • Issue 1 editorial Editor & Publisher Nicolette Johnston Editorial Assistant Gwenn Eyers ADVERTISING Please contact us at: ads@colettepublications.com

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contents

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Chateau Chambord. Page 2-3 Photo: Bern Switzerland, Teefarm by Pixabay. This Page - Top: Matterhorn, Switzerland, Nicolette Johnston. BACK COVER: Courtesy of Grand Hotel Kronenhof Pontresina, Switzerland.

features Exploring Switzerland - Castles of Switzerland 9 - Conquering the Alpine Rim 12 - KapellbrĂźck - Chapel Bridge 14 - Lion Monument of Lucerne 24 - Chateau de Chillon 26 King Ludwig's Bavarian Castles 28 Hallstatt, Austria 36 Chateau de Chambord 38

in every issue Letter from the Editor 5 Art History 6 Storybook Village - Appenzell, Switzerland 16 Where Am I? 19 Last Issue You Guessed 20 Royal Reign 28 Exquisite Gardens 38 A Finer Taste - Grand Hotel Kronenhof 45

CHATEAUX & CASTLES QUARTERLY is now published semi-annually by Colette Publications. (ISSN 2639-4154) The cover and contents of CHATEAUX & CASTLES QUARTERLY are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: For the United States, $17.99 per year, 2 issues; add $3 postage per year for U.S., $10 for postage in Canada; add $20 elsewhere. Single issues are from $9.99 and up, available at www.colettepublications. com. NOTE: CHATEAUX & CASTLES QUARTERLY assumes no responsibility for unsolicited photographs and manuscripts; submissions cannot be returned without a self-addressed stamped envelope.

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LETTER from

Volume 2• Issue I

SWISS BLISS

THE

Editor

W

e are excited to share some iconic castles in this issue. Chateau de Chambord is one of France's most beautiful and recognizable castles, which we've anxiously been waiting to feature. And, rather than just featuring the magnificant castle of Neuschwanstein in Germany's Bavarian town of Schwangau, we bring you an in depth look at the life of King Ludwig II, the dreamer who had no limit to his imagination; in addition, we highlight the other castles that he commissioned or were an important part of his life.

I am also personally enthused to share a few destinations of historical importance in Switzerland which make the country a unique place to visit. I found myself in the land of chocolate and cheese on a whim thirteen years ago. I booked a spontaneous trip to clear my head. It was my first solo post-college trip. It was September and the cool Alpine evenings were a breath of fresh air compared to the humid Florida days I was not yet used to. I imagined what life would be like in Switzerland in the winter months to come. I envisioned snow blanketing the ground nearly burying the chalet homes.

After a week of driving around in a motor coach, train and gondola rides through the Alps, witnessing extreme mountainscapes, taking boat rides on Lake Lucerne and Lake Lugano—I pined to live life in a small chalet strategically placed in the rolling green hills and enjoy a simple new life. I imagined the seasons of life pass by with two to three feet of snow packed on the roof with a toasty fire to keep me warm during the winter, and then to welcome a glorious spring and summer filled with no shortage of new places or trails to discover.

That trip was special for many reasons. As I opted for single occupancy, the tour company arranged me to share a room with an older English woman named Sheila, who kept calling me Vicki, instead of Nikki. I think her British accent had me too intimidated to correct her. I figured it wasn't worth mentioning, since I probably wouldn't see or talk to her after the trip anyway.

When I returned to the States after our trip was over, she surprised me with a phone call from across the pond. Then, she called me a week or two later, and faithfully week after week for the next decade. We exchanged unique 'parcel packages' as she called them on birthdays and Christmas for years. In 2011, I made a trip to visit her in Birmingham after flying to London for the Royal Wedding of Prince William to Kate Middleton, and I'm so glad I made the time to do that.

After the trip to Switzerland when I first met Sheila, I was inspired to begin a fiction novel about an American girl who opened a patisserie in the charming town of Zermatt, at the base of the Matterhorn mountain. I'm excited that after all these years, I'm finally wrapping up that book and it will be available later this year. We invite you to continue the journey with us as we transition into book publishing.

Sincerely,

Nicolette Johnston

Instagram: @colettepublications @chateauxcastlesquarterly @bedandbreakfastmagazine

This issue is dedicated to Sheila Clark, my dear friend whom I met in Switzerland in 2007. We traveled and were roommates on the Grand Tour of Switzerland through Cosmos travel group. She became a surrogate grandmother to me for the past 13 years. She never had children (or grandchildren) of her own. I'm honored to have called her my friend. Her picture was published in Chateaux & Castles in the spring 2019 issue in the Welford-on-Avon article. She sat on a bench next to the love of her life. I've blogged about her and written about her in my first book, Running Away to Europe. She was an au pair to Coco Chanel's family and worked at Cadbury. She had a passion for independent travel, was always positive and had something profound to share each phone call. This will not be the last time I write about her. There was never a person more committed to staying in touch with her friends than Sheila. She passed away on January 29th, 2020 and will be greatly missed.

Editor's Note: We want to share our appreciation for Wikipedia. Without it, historical research would be very difficult. While we make every effort not to plagerize, there are only so many ways to write history, without recreating it. Please be advised that this issue contains mature written content.

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Carl Schleicher

A

ustrian born painter Cölestin Schleicher (otherwise known as Carl Schleicher) had a natural gift to portray his subjects with an honest and true-to-life portrait. He captured the tiniest detail of those who sat for him amidst their immediate surroundings, from cigarette butts lying about the floor to books haphazardly fallen off to the side of a bookshelf as found in Günstige Gelegenheit.

Carl Schleicher (pronounced Shléijer) was a realistic 19th century painter born in Lviv (Galitzia, Austrian Empire) in 1825 and died in Padua, Kingdom of Italy, on October 2, 1903. His oil paintings depicted the influence of Dutch genre paintings of the 17th century.

Top Left: Der Bücherwurm, 19th Century - Carl Schleicher 1825-1903. top right: A Monk Reading.

Bottom: A Monk Writing.

Schleicher’s portraits draw an appreciation from his audience as they demonstrate a softness to age. Most of his subjects are elderly and shown intently focused on either their profession, hobby, or habit. Whether it was polishing a shoe in Der bewegte Schuster, writing a letter with a quill pen in Moine à létude, studying a pocket watch in Ein seltenes Werk, or reading a book in Ein lesender Mönch; Schleicher’s subjects are representative of showing a man enjoying his work, or his drink as in Es lebe der Wein, Ein frisches Glas Bier, and Tavern Dweller, which depict men with gleeful smiles enjoying steins of beer.

Some of Schleicher's paintings present genre scenes, which are paintings that demonstrate ordinary men engaged in everyday life activities. Admirers of Schleicher's works might imagine him setting up his easel with his subjects in the place that identifies with who they are, where they are most comfortable, or showing how they spent their free time.

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art history The paintings in this feature are courtesy of Wikipedia Commons for the public domain and education in its country of origin, and other countries, and areas where the copyright term is the author’s life plus 70-100 years.

As a pupil of Austrian painter Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller, Schleicher designed a fascist style of plastic creations, particularly in Vienna between the years of 1859 through 1871. During that time frame, he exhibited paintings with Jewish scenes in the Österreichisches Kunstverein.

Schleicher also painted many works centered around Jewish studies and Ashkenzai art. His artwork brought to life priests and rabbis gathered around in healthy debate surrounding the Talmud. His paintings captured 'the studious atmosphere of the Talmudists with sharpness' and 'were loaded with anecdotal material'. He often painted them exchanging ideas.

It is believed that 'Schleicher's records are valuable because much of the Ashkenazi communities of Europe and its cultural diversity were lost due to the Holocaust (or Shoah).

Schleicher brought to life different personality traits of Talmudists: conviction and astonishment, opposition and rejection, attention and astonishment. He produced an overall effect of 'tragicomic' .

According to Mutual Art, Carl Schleicher's original works have sold from $98 to $20,342 USD. The record price was $20,342 at the Hampel Fine Arts Auction in 2013 for two works combined.

Mathilde Schelicher and Dr. Sigmund Freud

Above: Der bewegte Schuster, 19th Century.

Schelicher's daughter, Mathilde Schleicher (1862-1890), was also gifted in the arts. She was a musician, but she unfortunately experienced the sufferings of mental illness after her fiancé broke off their engagement, according to a report from Dr. Sigmund Freud who had just become a nerve doctor around the time she began to see him. It is documented by Dr. Hanns Kaan in a different case report, that her fiance, “a weak character,” broke things off with her after she became depressed and developed “hysterical facial changes.”

Freud's reports documented that his treatments for her had their ups and downs. He experimented with the use of hypnosis, and in Dr. Kaan's notes, he wrote that she 'worshipped the doctor who had treated her during her melancholic condition'.

In the spring of 1889, it seemed as if Mathilde's condition was getting better. She bestowed Freud with a German history book, Germania. Two Millennia of German Life in which she dedicated it: To the excellent Dr. Freud, with my affectionate memory. As a token of the deepest gratitude and the deepest respect. Mathilde Schleicher, June 1889.

However, just one month later, Mathilde developed a case of severe mania. She became 'restless, exuberant, and agitated'—convinced she would take over the lead role of Bianca Bianchi, who was the lead singer of the Vienna Opera, and she would become rich from her incandescent concert career. She imagined a grandiose wedding, even though she no longer had a fiancé. She soon fell into violent convulsions—to which Freud noted 'occured during the melancholia', but 'multiplied during her recovery from it'.

Mathilde's condition grew progressively worse when Freud became overwhelmed and committed her to the private clinic of Dr. Wilhelm Svetlin on October 29, 1889. Her diagnosis at the time was noted as 'cyclical mood alteration', although it is what German Dr. Emil Kraepelin would call "manic depressive psychosis" ten years later.

Medical records held at the Svetlin clinic were blatantly candid. Two days after Mathilde's arrival at the clinic, the attending physician

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art history noted her as a nymphomaniac, with her doctors (including Freud) as her primary subjects of her erotic arousal. Her condition worsened and every time she had a bowel movement, she believed she was birthing a child and would try to hide it from the orderly under a pillow.

Doctors at the clinic believed Freud's hypnotic practices may have been the cause of her convulsions and her decline of mental health. For the next seven months, she was given hypnotics and sedatives: morphine, chloral hydrate, bromide, opium, cannabis, valerian, and more. She was also given sulfonal, a new hypnotic introduced in 1888 by Alfred Kast. It had been described in medical journals as harmless and non-addictive, unlike other products in use. Her manic state was cleared and she was released on May 25, 1890.

Her 'better' health was short-lived and Freud prescribed her to alternate chloral hydrate and sulfonol, two grams per day every day, switching out every other week in order to help cure her insomnia. In September, she started vomiting and became anemic. She had urinary retention and abdominal pain. Her urine was red, and she died on September 24, 1890 'fully conscious' with painful abdominal cramps. She was buried in the Jewish section of the Vienna's Central Cemetery.

A few weeks later, an article written by Hermann Breslauer warned about the danger of sulfonol, that it could cause acute porphyria, liver damage signaled by the red color of the urine. Unfortunately, the article came too late and Mathilde Schleicher ultimately died from sulfonol poisoning.

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Castles of

Volume 2 • Issue 1

Switzerland

Tarasp Castle is home to the alpine Upper Engadine and looks out with 360 degree views at 1499 meters above sea level. Although it dates back to the 11th century, this medieval fortress belonged to Austria until 1803. It was attacked several times during the 16th and 17th century, and suffered a few fires due to the invasions, but the damage was quickly repaired.

Image by Werner Hense from Pixabay.

Bottmingen Castle is just southwest of Basel and dates back to the 13th century. It was first owned by the Kämmerer family. Although originally a medieval castle, Bottmingen was revamped in 1720 to reflect a romantic early-Baroque French country style. Today, it is a popular venue for weddings and special events.

Image by Clickphoto Switzerland from Pixabay.

Villa Cassel is magnificently set in the municipality of Riederalp, within the canton of Valais. The Victorian-style villa was constructed between 1900 to 1902 for German-English banker Sir Ernest Cassel.

He used it as his summer home until the beginning of the First World War. After the war, it served as a hotel until 1969. In the 1970s, Pro Natura bought and transformed the villa into Switzerland's first nature center, which is still in operation today. It also serves as an information center for the Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Image via Creative Commons: Fiesch

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Adventure in Switzerland

Your Grand Tour Awaits

Image by Andi Graf from Pixabay.

O

ne doesn't need to be a thrill seeker to appreciate the majestic views in Switzerland. Although it may seem impossible to see views from the top of the Alps, it is in fact easily attainable. Switzerland offers easy access to Alpine mountain peaks by way of cogwheel train, funiculars, cable car, or even a circular cable car like the Titlis Rotair near Lake Lucerne.

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A sunny day beams upon the snowy Alps in April, offering the beauty of winter's remains, but the promise of spring.

Alpinism is a word commonly used

in Europe—its definition surpasses the meaning of mountaineering. Alpinism goes beyond hiking on designated paths or skiing within the boundaries of protected slopes. It is the art of balancing master climbing skills with an appreciation for culture, knowledge, and history of the environment. Rather than staying on charted courses, it is about embracing the beauty of the course to appreciate nature at its finest.

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Conquering the Alpine Rim EmbracingThe View from Above

W

hen it comes to putting on hiking boots in Switzerland, this wonderous country offers a sense of perspective quite like nowhere else in the world.

There is a unintimidating ease to the lush green velvety grass mountains, which can even lure novice and nonhikers with a desire to get out and inhale the fresh Alpine summit air and tackle trails that have been trodden by explorers for centuries.

Even if the most experienced hiker, or Alpinist, sought to conquer every last one of Switzerland's trails, they would have traveled around the world one-and-a-half times. But, who could ever tire of the views, when hikers are prancing amoungst some of the highest places on earth?

During World War II, Switzerland's hiking sign posts were taken down, as the Swiss feared they would giving away valuable route information to invading enemies. Today, over 50,000 well-marked signposts are appreciated from travelers all over the world to help guide hikers. Every year, at least1,500 staff members and volunteers check the trails by foot.

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The Alps

he Alps consist of 82 peaks that all reach over 4,000 meters (13,123 ft) high. The Mont Blanc lies between the French-Italian border, although it's eastern flanks are located within Switzerland. It has the highest peak of all the Alps, and stands proudly towering the others at 4,807 m (15,770 ft).

While a majority of the highest peaks of the Alps are located within Switzerland—such as the Dufourspitze, (otherwise known as Monte Rosa), the Liskamm, the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn— the Dom is the highest peak which lies entirely in Switzerland.

The Dom stands at 4,545 m (14,911 ft). high. Forty-eight out of the 82 (4,000 meter and above) mountains are in Switzerland, and nearly of all the remaining 34 are within 20 kilometers or less of the Swiss border.

The three main subranges of the Swiss Alps include: • The Pennine Alps create a natural awe-inspiring border between Switzerland and Italy. A majority of Switzerland's highest peaks can be discovered here, as 38 of the 48 are located in the Pennine Alps. Their beauty can be admired from high points in the area of Zermatt.

• The Bernese Alps lie to the north of the Pennine Alps and call Switzerland’s Rhone Valley home. There are nine mountains located within the Bernese Alps which peak over 4,000 meters. Included in these are the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.

The Jungfrau Region within the Bernese Oberland serves as a backdrop to Bern. The Eiger, a well known mountain in the region comes in at just 3,967 meters.

• The Bernina Alps are in the southeastern Swiss canton of Graubünden. Only one of Switzerland’s 4,000-meter peaks lies within the Bernina Alps—the Piz Bernina. It is near the ski resort of St. Moritz.The Grand Hotel Krohnenhof Pontresina which we feature on page 45, is located just outside of St. Moritz.

The Matterhorn

Although scaling the most photographed mountain in the world should only be attempted by the most advanced of mountain climbers, anyone can ride the highest cable car station in the Alps from Zermatt to the Klein-Matterhorn (Little Matterhorn) to appreciate the majestic view of the Matterhorn.

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Kapellbrück - Chapel Bridge

I

n the heart of Lucerne, one of the most photographed sites is the Kapellbrück, which translates to Chapel Bridge.

The wooden covered footbridge diagonally crosses the River Reuss within the city, and dates back to 1365. Originally, it connected the old town on the right bank to the new town on the left bank, providing security from attack via the lake.

Initially, the bridge spanned over 270 metres (890 ft) long. It has been shortened on numerous occasions over the years to fill in the banks of the river, reducing its length to 204.7 metres (672 ft) long. Kapellbrück was named after nearby St. Peter's Chapel. Its uniqueness derives from a number of triangular interior 17th century paintings characteristic of three bridges in Lucerne.

The Kapellbrück paintings were the creations of Hans Heinrich Wägmann, a local Catholic painter, and portray events from Lucerne's history. The scenes, created during the Counter-Reformation, were designed to glorify the Catholic Church. The paintings were commissioned by the city's council members, who attributed their own coats of arms on it as sponsors. Each scene included a written explanation below the paintings.

Displayed up and down the bridge, the paintings date from the life and death of Lucerne's patron saint St. Leger through the legends of the city's other patron saint St. Maurice. The artwork was hung upon wooden boards varying from 150 cm (59 in) to 181 cm (71 in) wide to 85 cm (33 in) to 95 cm (37 in) wide. They were constructed mainly from spruce boards, with a few constructed from linden wood and maple.

On August 18, 1993, the Kapellbrücke nearly burned down, destroying two thirds of its interior paintings along with a significant portion of the centuries-old bridge. It was rebuilt shortly after, for CHF 3.4 million, and reopened to the public on April 14, 1994.

Out of 158 original paintings, only 30 still remain today. There were 147 that still existed prior to the fire. The fire destroyed 100, leaving the remains of 47 panels that were collected, but 17 of those were not able to be salvaged.

The Kapellbrücke is the world’s oldest existing truss bridge. Even though it has been restored, it is still considered the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe. It serves as the city of Lucerne’s symbol and is one of Switzerland's primary tourist attractions.

The nearby octagon Wasserturm, or 'water tower', is about 30 years older than the bridge. Over time it has been used as a prison, torture chamber, municipal archive, and as a local treasury. The tower is closed to the public, but it houses a tourist gift shop and a local artillery association.

No other wooden pedestrian footbridge in Europe embodies the uniqueness that all three of the Lucerne bridges possess. The 14thcentury Hofbrücke, which was destroyed, the Kapellbrücke, and the 16th-century Spreuerbrücke all possessed beautifully painted interior triangular frames.

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LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

A

lthough restored, the KapellbrĂźcke is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe, as well as the world's oldest surviving truss bridge.

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STORYBOOK VILLAGE Appenzell, Switzerland WRITTEN & PHOTOGRAPHED BY: NICOLETTE JOHNSTON

I

n Eastern Switzerland, there is a quaint little town named Appenzell. As the capitol of the canton Appenzell Innerhoden, this colorful and clean storybook village is rich with history and rural traditions that are still honored today.

The main street of Appenzell is filled with color and charm as cake shops, artisan shops, delis, and a butcher offer an authentic handcrafted unique vibe that matches no other place in the world. The main street is kept free of vehicles, which offers town folk and visitors the opportunity to enjoy a leisurely stroll to shop and appreciate the beauty of the village at a slower pace.

Delectable and traditional Appenzeller cheese recipes are offered at local restaurants and taverns.

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The town keeps its customs alive by honoring those star creators of the Appenzeller cheese, as Appenzell is best known for its traditional Swiss cattle procession. The community celebrates the ascent of the cattle in May and the descent from mid-August to mid-September when cows make their way down from Mount Santis.

On the way up, the procession begins early in the morning, with hornless goats leading the charge in front of the cows. Three large bells in the sixth, seventh, and eight overtones are placed around the cows neck, as four Alpine herdsmen walk alongside to sing and yodel to the beat of the bell. A steer and horse pull the Ledi (wagon with two axles) to carry the cheesemaking equipment for the summer. Bringing up the rear is the cattle owner dressed in brown holding a milk bucket, called a FahreimerbĂśdeli, on his left shoudler which is painted traditionally on the bottom. He is joined by his companion, an Appenzeller Mountain Dog to goad the cows along.

On their descent at the end of summer, they meander through the surrounding green hills of the Sitter valley and the procession is welcomed back by the village people. This time they are led by goats and children dressed in festive clothes. Wearing their Sunday best, the boys and men wear traditional yellow or black pants, red embroidered vests, and black hats. Girls and women wear traditional long ruffle and lace dresses. The cows adorned once again with their large bells and fresh flowers, mosy Chateaux & Castles

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down the winding road making their way into the village. Come rain or shine, villagers gather to watch and listen to the familiar sound of a slow wordless yodel, called Zauren, as the cow bells and milk pails clank in unison.

The women of Appenzell have been reknowned for their skill of lacemaking and embroidery for the past couple of centuries, which peaked in the 1850s. Although the Industrial Revolution just about decimated the art of making lace by hand, it was able to survive a little longer in Appenzell due to the high quality of craft which was lost with newer machines paired with the demand from the more affluent class throughout Europe. Although, the women of the canton Appenzell Innerhoden offered a valuable source of income

What is a canton?

A canton is a state or local government within Swizterland.

There are 26 cantons in Switzerland. The two letter abbreviation of each canton is used on license plates in Switzerland.

to their region, it was only within the past thirty years that they have been allowed to vote in their canton. In 1990, two women challenged a centuries old law by filing a lawsuit with the Swiss Federal Court. They won their case which allowed women to begin voting in 1991.

Bottom images by: Marcel Langthim from Pixabay.

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CHATEAUX & CASTLES ...was specially created for those whose curiosity has always been piqued by

Travel, Royalty & History.

Read some of our past features by visiting us online to order back issues available only at www.colettepublications.com

Where am I? This majestic place was designed with the nearby mountains in mind. It is surrounded by a park with the sound of peaceful water flowing through cascades and fountains, paired with the sound of calling birds. Made out of red clay, its name is the feminine translation of the color red.

Submit your guess to editorial@colettepublications. com or enter on our social media pages. The answer to last issue's "Where am I?" is the Zytglogge in Bern, Switzerland! See our feature on page 20.

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Last Issue You Guessed

The Zytglogge

T

he Zytglogge, is one of Bern's oldest and most legendary features. Built between 1218-1220, with Baroque and Gothic elements, the clock tower is in the Old City surrounded by cobblestone streets. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a Swiss Cultural Property of National Significance.

It is a medieval landmark that has served the city as guard tower, prison, clock tower, centre of urban life and civic memorial. The name 'Zytglogge' dates back to 1413. The Bernese German word translates to Zeitglocke in Standard German and to 'time bell' in English. 'Glocke' is German for 'bell'. A 'time bell' was one of the earliest timekeeping devices for the community, which consisted of a clockwork connected to a hammer that rang a small bell at the full hour.

Prior to 1413, the Zytglogge was referred to as the 'kebie', which translates to 'cage' and referencing a prison. After its 1405 reconstruction, it was referred to as the 'nüwer turm' or 'new tower'.

Over the course of its existence, the Zytglogge has undergone many redecorations and renovations over the past 800 years.

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With its whimsical 15th-century astronomical clock, it is a major tourist attraction.

The exterior of the tower's main body is made out of alpine limestone, the three-story tower shaft is sheathed in sandstone, and the attic roof portion is covered in red tile.

The inside of the Zytglogge has served many purposes throughout the centuries from guard tower to a women's prison to house those convicted of sexual crimes with priests (Pfaffendirnen), and as a clock tower. In the 1900s, the rooms above the clock were used by city administration for archives, store rooms, as a firehose magazine and an air raid shelter. Since 1979, the tower's interior has been vacant. It is now only accessible for maintenance and guided tours.

In 1638, Bern had three medieval guard towers, the Christoffelturm, the Käfigturm, and the Zytglogge. When the tower was first built between 1218–20, it served as a gate tower to defend Bern. The three medieval towers were built after the city's first westward expansion. At that time, the Zytglogge stood only 52 feet tall. It was later heightened by 23 feet as the city increased its expansion of its fortifications, which allowed a better vantage point over the surrounding homes.

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BERN, SWITZERLAND In the great fire of 1405, nearly the entire tower burned causing the tropics and the temporal hours, dividing the time of daylight into severe structural damage, except three of the original wooden twelve hours—reflecting how the length of each day adjusts with the beams which support the intermediate floors. Since then, repairs time of year. were never fully complete until its last restoration in 1983.

Every four years the clock must be reset on February 29th, as it The exact year the clock dial was installed is not certain, but has can not manually support Leap Day. A moon dial circles the inner been attributed to either 1405 or 1467-83, or to the installation ring of the zodiac, which displays the moon phase. The hand of of the Brunner clockwork in 1527-30. Because clocks with a later the clock indicates the time of day on the outer ring of 24 golden date use a northern projection, this provides the belief that the Roman numerals. There are two suns, the smaller one indicates the date of the clock is around 1405 with renovations around 1467- date. The larger one circles the zodiac at one revolution per year and 83. There is however documenation that exists within the tower also rotates across the planisphere once per day. Its crossing of the stating that the new bell was installed in 1405. horizon and dawn lines twice per day allows the timing of sunrise, In the late 15th century, the Zytglogge was extended and dawn, dusk and sunset. decorated to reflect more of a Burgundian Romantic fashion. In A frieze (decorative border) was painted above the astronomical 1527–30, the clockwork was rebuilt by Kaspar Brunner, and the clock. It showcases five deities from classical antiquity. Each gateway on the bottom was overarched to provide a more secure one represents a day of the week as well as a planet in their order foundation. according to Ptolemaic cosmology. They include: Saturn with sickle The exterior was repainted by Gotthard Ringgli and Kaspar and club for Saturday, Jupiter with thunderbolts for Thursday, Mars Haldenstein in 1607–10, and the large clock faces on the east with sword and shield for Tuesday, Venus with Cupid for Friday and and west façades of the tower are attributed to them. In 1770– Mercury with staff and bag for Wednesday. Although the painting 71, the Zytglogge was renovated by Niklaus Hebler and Ludwig on the clock face was refurbished in 1983, traces of the earlier coat of Emanuel Zehnder. They refurbished the tower in a late Baroque paint still exist in the matte area. fashion, giving it more of a contemporary appearance.

The bell on top which rings on the hour was cast by Johann Reber. It has stayed the same since the tower was reconstructed in 1405. It has a diameter of 50 inches, and weighs 3,100 pounds.

The inscription on the bell reads, in Latin: "In the October month of the year 1405 I was cast by Master John called Reber of Aarau.

I am vessel and wax, and to all I tell the hours of the day."

On the hour when the bell rings, it is struck by a large clockwork-operated hammer, in which town folk and visitors alike witness a gilded figure in full harness move its arm to strike the bell. The figure depicts a bearded Chronos, the Greek personification of time. He is also nicknamed Hans von Thann.

Although the wooden bell-striker has been replaced several times, he has been a permanent fixture of the Zytglogge since the renewal of the astronomical clock in 1530. The original wooden Chronos is presumed to have been created by master craftsman Albrecht von Nürnberg, while the current and most recent Hans is a 1930 reconstruction of a Baroque original.

The dial of the Zytglogge's astronomical clock is called an astrolabe. It is a disc shaped instrument with a pivoted pointer which makes astronomical measurements to calculate latitude.

Astrolabes date back to the classical time period before sextants were developed. Behind it is a stereographically projected planisphere which is seperated into three zones: the black night sky, the deep blue zone of dawn and the light blue day sky.

Golden lines cross over the sky which portray the horizon, dawn,

The name Zytglogge dates back to 1413, the Bernese German word translates to Zeitglocke in Standard German and to 'time bell' in English.

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BEAUTIFUL BERN Panoramic views of Old Town Bern and Aare River Loop can be enjoyed from the Rose Garden...

Bears have been a part of Bern's history since the 1500s. In 2009, a Bear Park was added to the Bear Pit, which now offers the creatures 6,000 square feet and a bath area along the Aare River.

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Image by TeeFarm from Pixabay.

Image by G-TV from Pixabay.

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The Lion Monument of Lucerne he Lion Monument in Lucerne, Switzerland was designed to commemorate the fallen Swiss Guards who were massacred during the French Revolution. The image of a dying lion impaled by a spear, with his

head resting upon a shield bearing the fleur-de-lis of the French monarchy is carved into the face of a cliff in a former sandstone quarry. Beside him is another shield bearing the coat of arms of Switzerland.

On October 6, 1789, King Louis XVI and his family were forced out of the Palace of Versailles and moved to the Tuileries Palace in Paris. They tried to flee to Montmédy in June of 1791, near the frontier where there was a higher concentration of royalist officers but were not successful. Three years after being moved to the Tuileries, on October 10, 1792, the revolutionaries charged the palace after the Royal family departed from the Tuileries to seek protection at the Legislative Assembly.

The Swiss Guards, who had been protecting the Royal Household of France since the early 17th century, ran low in ammunition and were overtaken by the revolutionaries. The King wrote a handwritten note, which still exists today, ordering the Swiss to retire and return to their barracks. Unfortunately, the note written a half an hour after firing began, was delivered in the midst of fighting and arrived too delayed to save their fate.

Image by pkh470 from Pixabay.

More than six hundred Swiss Guards died while fighting, or were massacred after surrendering. It is estimated that another two hundred guards died later from their wounds in prison, or were killed during the September Massacre.

Karl Pfyffer von Altishofen, a Guards officer, had been on leave in Lucerne when the fateful night broke out on October 10, 1792.

Having survived, he was compelled to raise money in 1818 in honor of his fellow Swiss Guards who lost their lives during the Revolution.

Designed by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the Lion Monument was hewn by Lukas Ahorn in 1820–21. It measures ten meters in length and six meters in height. The moving masterpiece is visited by 1.4 million tourists each year.

The words "Helvetiorum Fidei ac Virtuti" are carved above the lion, which translates "To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss." The monument further honors and lists the names of the officers with the Roman numerals (DCCLX = 760) representing those soldiers who perished, and those who survived (CCCL = 350).

Thomas M. Brady (1849–1907) modeled his Lion of Atlanta in the Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta, Georgia after the Lion Monument in Lucerne in 1894.

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he Lion lies in his lair in the perpendicular face of a low cliff—for he is carved from the living rock of the cliff. His size is colossal, his attitude is noble. His head is bowed, the broken spear is sticking in his shoulder, his protecting paw rests upon the lilies of France. Vines hang down the cliff and wave in the wind, and a clear stream trickles from above and empties into a pond at the base, and in the smooth surface of the pond the lion is mirrored, among the water-lilies.

Around about are green trees and grass. The place is a sheltered, reposeful woodland nook, remote from noise and stir and confusion—and all this is fitting, for lions do die in such places, and not on granite pedestals in public squares fenced with fancy iron railings. The Lion of Lucerne would be impressive anywhere, but nowhere so impressive as where he is.

— Mark Twain, A Tramp Abroad, 1880

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herever one goes in Switzerland, serene green hills, majestic mountainscapes, tidy communities, blooming geraniums and hospitable smiles welcome each visitor—serving as a constant reminder of the symbolism of peace and neutrality that embody this exceptional country.

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The Legend of Chateau de

Chillon

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Photo: Zacharie Grossen

hâteau de Chillon is an island castle resting upon the shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman in French), south of Veytaux and in the canton of Vaud. It is situated at the eastern end of the lake, on the narrow shore between Montreux and Villeneuve, which gives access to the Alpine valley of the Rhône. Chillon is notably called "Switzerland's most visited monument", and was the inspiration for the castle in Disney's animated film, The Little Mermaid.

Chillon Castle has been the inspiration to many artists including Gustave Courbet who painted the castle many times during his Swiss exile. One of his paintings is on display at the Musée Courbet in Ornans. Lord Byron was so moved by the story of prisoner François de Bonivard, that he wrote a poem called The Prisoner of Chillon in 1816. To which, Byron carved his name in the Dungenon at Chillon. The castle has drawn many other romantic writers and artists as well. The castle was used as the cover image of the late pianist Bill Evans' 1968 live album, Bill Evans at the Montreux Jazz Festival.

Within the castle walls, there are four great halls, three courtyards and several bedrooms open to the public. Much of the castles interiors were recreated in some of the main rooms including the grand bedroom, hall, and cave stores.

One of the oldest rooms is the Camera domini, which was occupied by the Duke of Savoy—it is decorated with 14th century medieval murals.

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Written & photographed by: nicolette johnston

Chillon Castle, 1874-75 - Gustave Courbet (1819-1877).

This work is in the public domain in its country of origin and other countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 100 years or fewer.

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Successively occupied by the house of Savoy then by the Bernese from 1536 until 1798, Chillon now belongs to the State of Vaud and is classified as a Swiss Cultural Property of National Significance.

The Fort de Chillon, its modern counterpart, is hidden in the steep side of the mountain.

What originally began as a Roman outpost to guard the road through the Alpine passes from Burgundy to the Great Saint Bernard Pass, later became influenced by three major periods: the Savoy Period, the Bernese Period, and the Vaudois Period.

windows were added to Chillon, which were later added to Harlech Castle by Master James of Saint George.

During the 16th century Wars of Religion, the Dukes of Savoy used Chillon to house prisoners, including its most notorious prisoner—François de Bonivard, a Genevois monk, prior of St. Victor in Geneva and politician. He was imprisoned there in 1530 after defending his homeland from the dukes of Savoy. During the six years he was imprisoned at Chillon he paced as far as his chain would allow. The chain and rut are still visible.

The castle of Chillon is built on the island of Chillon, an oval limestone rock standing in Lake Geneva between Montreux and Villeneuve with steep sides, one side on land, and one side in the lake. The strategic placement of the castle closes the passage between the Vaud Riviera (access to the north towards Germany and France) and the Rhone valley and allows quick access to Italy. It offers an excellent view on the Savoyard facing the water. A garrison could thus control (both militarily and commercially) access to the road to Italy and apply a toll.

During the Bernease Period in 1536, the castle was captured by a Genevois and Bernese force. All the prisoners were released at the time, and Bernese bailiff took possession, residing at Chillon until 1733 when it became a state prison.

According to the Swiss ethnologist Albert Samuel Gatschet, the name Chillon comes from Waldensian dialect and would mean "flat stone, slab, platform". Castrum Quilonis (1195) would therefore mean "castle built on a chillon,"— a rock platform.

At the end of the 19th century, significant measures were taken to restore the castle. In the 1930s, the castle was seeing nearly 100,000 visitors annually. With its close proximity to Montreux, this number has increased to about 400,000 today.

The first construction dates back to around the 10th century, although it is likely that it was already a privileged military site before that date. Objects dating back to Roman times were discovered during excavations in the 19th century, as well as remains from the Bronze Age. A square dungeon was added in the 10th century. Sources dating all the way back to the 13th century indicate the Chillon site was occupied by the Bishop of Sion.

Although the oldest parts of the castle have not exactly been determined, the first writings about the castle date back to 1005.

The Counts of Savoy kept their fleet of ships on Lake Geneva from the mid 12th century, and the castle served as their summer residence. Gaucher de Blonay, a vassal of the Count of Savoy was documented as the first owner of the castle. The castle was significantly expanded in the mid-12th century by Peter II. Unique

Decades later in 1798, the castle became a munitions and weapons depot when Vaud (the French-speaking canton) forced the Germanspeaking Bernese authorities out—declaring the Lemanic Republic.

Wanting to maintain autonomy from the Swiss, the Vaudois brought in additional French troops to help them achieve it at Chillon.

Château de Chillon is notably called "Switzerland's most visited monument", and was the inspiration for the castle in Disney's animated film, The Little Mermaid.

castle crypt - Photo: Ioan Sameli Photo: Bolla Ugo

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royal reign

King Ludwig's Bavarian Castles Written by: Nicolette Johnston

I

King Ludwig II of Bavaria Image by Helmut H. Kroiss from Pixabay.

want to remain an eternal enigma to myself and others" —

King Ludwig II said to his governess. The shy dreamer of a King was born August 25, 1845 at Nyphenburg Palace in Munich, Germany and died at the young age of 40 on June 13, 1886 at Lake Starnberg in the Kingdom of Bavaria. His parents, Maximilian II of Bavaria and Marie of Prussia, intended to name him Otto, but Ludwig's grandfather (Ludwig I) insisted he be named after him as they shared the same birthday.

Growing up, Ludwig was much closer to his grandfather than his parents. Raised under the strict control of tutors and academics, he did not have a close relationship with his parents. King Maximilian's advisors suggested he take walks with his son to spend time educating him on his duties to come, but he lamented that he didn't know how to communicate with him because his son didn't listen to what anyone told him.

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This photograph of King Ludwig II is in the public domain in its country of origin, including the U.S., and other countries or areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 70 years.

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schwangau, germany Ludwig was also known to refer to his mother as his 'predecessor's consort'.

Ludwig took the throne in 1864 as a late teenager after his father died from an illness. He was known as the Swan King or The Fairy Tale King, as he created a world of fantasy with the palaces he had commissioned. King Ludwig was noted as eccentric and introverted.

After taking the throne, he preferred to avoid social events making government duties in Munich a challenge. He opted to spend time away from people and in the countryside of Bavaria. Despite being labeled as an introvert, he was known to offer lavish gifts to farmers and rural loyalists of Bavaria who bestowed kindness Inside Neuschwanstein - Image by ArtTower from Pixabay. and hospitality to him. Therefore, he was favored more in Bavaria and felt much more at ease there. His mother worried about his success as a ruler because she knew of his tendency to be a creative dreamer and introvert. As an afficiando of theatre arts, he paid for over 200 private theatrical performances because he wanted to be able to enjoy the performances without feeling as if people were sneaking glances at him to see his reaction to the performances.

King Ludwig II paid for his lavish archictectural projects with inherited royal funds and not state funds like many presumed, but it still did not prevent Bavaria from encountering financial troubles. By the year 1885, he had fallen 14 million marks into debt. His financial ministers advised him to scale down his excessive spending on his palaces, but he pressed on and borrowed from family to carry on with his lavish plans. He demanded loans from other members of royalty throughout Europe. He ignored his stately duties and threatened to get rid of all his cabinet members and replace them all. They quickly took matters into their own hands and sought a way to depose Ludwig in a constitutional way by declaring him mentally ill. The cabinet members asked his uncle Prince Luitpold if he would step in. Prince Luitpold agreed, but only if they could prove his condition.

Some presume King Ludwig II may have preferred to die rather than face the realities of debt. Others believe he was murdered.

His death remains somewhat of a mystery. Conspirators began to compile their case against King Ludwig in the early months of 1886. By June, four government ordered four psychatrists were hired to evaulate Ludwig. Their report read, "suffering from such a disorder, freedom of action can no longer be allowed and Your Majesty is declared incapable of ruling, which incapacity will be not only for a year's duration, but for the length of Your Majesty's life." Although, none of the doctors actually evaluated him in person. Only Dr. Bernard von Gudden had personally met him—twelve years prior to their governmental orders to evaluate him.

The few days leading up to King Ludwig's death resembled a dramatic witch hunt. On June 10th, a government commission which included Dr. Gudden arrived at Neuschwanstein to deliver his deposition and take him into custody. A loyal servant

nymphenburg Palace

Born at Nymphenburg Palace in Munich, King Ludwig II's story began at the Baroque palace in1845.

Constructed between 1664-1675, it is presently home to the head of the House of Wittlesbach, Franz the Duke of Bavaria. However, Nymphemburg Palace is open for the public to enjoy a tour of the royal apartments, the carriage museum, porcelain museum, or to simply spend a day strolling through the garden parterre and enjoy the Grand Cascade.

Image by holzijue from Pixabay.

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neuschwanstein tipped off his coachman and ordered the local police to protect him. They forced them off at gunpoint. Another loyal friend, the baroness Spera von TruchseĂ&#x; went after the commissioners attacking them with her umbrella.

She identified them to King Ludwig II. He had them captured, but released them after a few hours.

That same day, the Government under MinisterPresident Johann von Lutz publicly proclaimed Luitpold as Prince Regent. The King's friends and allies insisted that he flee. Instead he issued a statement claiming the state of his health was falsified and that acts of high treason were being committed. The government ceased many copies of the newspaper.

On June 12th, a commission including Dr. Gudden, once again returned and took King Ludwig II by carriage to Berg Castle near Lake Starnberg. The next afternoon King Ludwig II and Dr. Gudden took a stroll along the castle grounds, accompanied by two attendants. At dinner, there was positive talk from Dr. Gudden demonstrating his belief in hope for the King's 'condition'. After dinner, it is said the King Ludwig II requested the doctor to join him for another walk, this time along the lake. The doctor ordered that 'no attendants may join them', and many wonder if it was actually the doctor who suggested the walk. The attendents may have trailed the duo. They were last seen at 6:30p.m. and were due back at 8:00 p.m., but never came back. After searching a few hours in the rain, the bodies of King Ludwig II and Dr. Bernard von Gudden were found around 10:30 p.m., in the water waste deep off the shore of Lake Starnberg.

King Ludwig's death was recorded as a suicide by drowning, although his autospy showed that no water entered his lungs. Dr. Gudden's autopsy revealed strikes to the head and necks, as well as signs of strangulation.

No further evidence was said to have surfaced.

One theory claims King Ludwig died from natural causes or the shock of the cold water. While other theories believe he was murdered trying to escape. Jakob Lidl, the King's personal fisherman was directed by the state never to speak to his wife or another soul, or even confess to a priest about the things he knew or witnessed that night. As a result, he and his family were taken care of by the statewritten during times of peace and war. & photographed by: Nicolette Johnston Later after Lidl's death, notes he left behind were found saying he hid behind the bushes that night near his boat.

He indicated he was to meet the King and paddle him to meet loyalists who would help him escape. As soon as the King stepped in the boat, a shot fired and he fell instantly into the boat. The autopsy reports listed no wounds. Years If youJosephine guessedvon the Wrba-Kaunitz Craigdarrochpulled Castle later, the Countess Victoria, British Columbia issue's out a gray in coat at her afternoon tea to showfor twolast bullet am I?" correct! holes in the coat"Where and claimed it — as you Kingwere Ludwig's.

The King's watch stopped at 6:54 p.m. on June 13th, 1886.

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schwangau, germany

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ew Hohenschwangau or 'new castle' was dreamt up by King Ludwig II. He described in a letter to Richard Wagner, that he wanted to create a newer, more exquisite castle with a better view, as he felt his mother was 'desecrating' Hohenschwangau by not taking care of it. The foundation was laid in 1869. Because the Gateway Building was completed first, King Ludwig lived there for a number of years. Even with the King's demand to rush the build of the castle, ordering construction workers to work both day and night, the mountain it was built upon presented challenges which took time to get the castle just right. Although the castle was still not completed before he died, he officially moved into New Hohenschwangau in 1884. King Ludwig II was able to enjoy it for about two years before his death. It was later named Neuschwanstein after his death.

Image by Jรถrg Vieli.

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hohenschwangau

Image by ArtTower from Pixabay.

No matter the season, the eagle eye view perched from Neuschwanstein overlooking Hohenschwangau and the royal kingdom is stunningly magical.

Image by Mark Distelrath.

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schwangau, germany

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estled between the Alpsee and Schwansee with the brazen Austrian mountains as a backdrop, Hohenschwangau, is a 12th century castle located just south of its more luxurious counterpart—Neuschwanstein. Hohenschwangau served as a residence to the knights of Schwangau, and deteriorated over the next few centuries. It existed long before the more romantic Neuschwanstein was ever a conjured up in King Ludwig II's imaginative mind in the 19th century.

Hohenschwangau was a ruin by the time King Ludwig's II father, Maximilian II took possession of it in the 19th century. He soon restored it and redecorated it from 1832 until 1837 with the flair of a romantic palace from the Gothic period. Historical German legends were frescoed amongst the castle walls. It served as the family's summer and hunting residence.

Hohenschwangau filled King Ludwig II with fond childhood memories and it was a favorite place of his to spend his summer days. When King Ludwig came into power in 1864, he drew upon his inspiration of Hohenschangau to imagine and develop the grandiose Neuschwanstain. Even though the splendor of Hohenschwangau was outshined by Neuschwantstein, King Ludwig always had a fondness to the castle.

There is a painting frescoed in the castle of the legendary swan knight, Lohengrin. At seeing Richard Wagner's play of Lohengrin at the age of 15, King Ludwig II believed he strongly identified with Lohengrin. He even quoted himself as Henrich and his fiance Duchess Sophie Charlotte as Elsa, characters from Lohengrin, when he broke off his engagement with her blaming her father in a short handwritten note. She later married Prince Ferdinand, Duke of Alençon. King Ludwig II never married or had any mistresses. His diary and personal documents indicate he may have had homosexual desires, and although homosexuality was no longer punishable in Bavaria after 1813, a 'homosexual monarch would have been considered intolerable'.

Image by Derwiki from Pixabay.

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Linderhof Palace

h

h

Image by eibedd0001 from Pixabay.

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schwangau, germany

Image by ian kelsall from Pixabay.

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inderhof Palace was the only palace of the three King Ludwig II commissioned that he was able to see completed in his lifetime. While he inherited the palace from his father in 1864, Königshäuschen, as it was called at the time, was remodeled in 1869. However, King Ludwig decided to completely tear it down for a rebuild in 1874.

Even though it was considered the smallest palace he built, he drew upon the inspiration of Versailles and wanted to model Linderhof after the grandor that the French palace embodied. The French Sun-King Louis XIV was considered an idol to Ludwig. He designed Linderhof to have suns placed all around the palace, portraying an honor to the monarchy and total absolutism. The staircase was modeled after Versailles, but on a less grandiose scale. The Graswang was modeled after the Petit Trianon. The bedrooms were also designed in a monarch fashion which gives importance to the morning and nightly riturals that occurred in the bedchamber.

However, differing from Versailles, he positioned the bedroom to face North, as he wanted to portray himself as the Night King. The other difference from King Louis XIV's style, is that the decor of Linderhof was more of a mid-18th century Rococo style which he modeled more after Louis XV.

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Hallstatt Austria

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he picturesque village of Hallstatt has served as a favorite screensaver destination for over a decade. Even though the village dates back to prehistoric times, it was only in the past 10-15 years that the village has gained worldwide notoriety. For centuries, this community thrived in its production of the flavor-enhancing ingredient and preservative in nearly every food —salt. The town is also known for a cryptic basement below the town where over 1,200 skulls are clustered about for the second attempt at eternal rest.

The village has recently boomed in what is known as ‘overtourism’. Since 2011, the town with a population of only 780 has seen a spike from about 100 tourists a day to an astronomical 10,000 to 30,000 people per day, transported in by charter bus for quick visits. Recent documentaries broadcasted in Austria

Image by Julius Silver from Pixabay.

have brought the issue to light. Beginning in 2020, only around 54 tour buses will be allowed into Hallstatt, each with an established time slot, allowing for controlled and higher quality tourism.

Hallstatt’s popularity grew after it was named a UNESCO site in 1997. Once labeled as the “Most Instagrammable Village in the World”, it became a hotspot to the Asian demographic in 2006. A replica of the village was built in China in 2011 and it was said to be the inspiration behind the town of Arendelle in Disney’s movie, Frozen.

In 2017, when tourism exploded in Hallstatt, bouncers were employed by local churches, so that services would not be disrupted by tourists.

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Image by Iva Balk from Pixabay.

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a unique history Beinhaus, or the Bone House, otherwise referred to as Karner (Charnel House) is an ossuary within the basement of the Church of St. Michael. Tucked against the steep cliffs of the Hallberg, the Catholic Church notably offers the best views of Hallstatt, and has been around since the 12th century. The Bone House in Hallstatt is one of the last karners (place of second burial) in Austria.

There are about 700 painted skulls, and 500 unpainted skulls inside the Bonehouse.

Cremation was not allowed in the Catholic Church until the 1960s, and graveyard space became an issue in the tight corridors with the village pushed

Where to Stay in Hallstatt— Seewirt Zauner

offers a charming stay with traditional cuisine featuring local delicacies and white fish directly from Lake Hallstatt at their restaurant, which is open to everyone.

Heritage Hotel Hallstatt offers modern

guest rooms with no two rooms decorated the same. Guests enjoy lakeside views, soaking in the sauna or delicious baked goods. Their restaurant and cafe 'Im Kainz' is known for their pastries and cakes.

Image by LeBaillif from Pixabay.

up between the steep mountain and lake Hallstättersee (Hallstatt Lake).

Because of this, bodies were rotated out after time. The gravedigger had the honor of painting female skulls with flowers, or roses on their temples; and painting crowns and wreaths of oak or ivy for men.

Many of the skulls are positioned next to the other family members and bear the Maltese cross and/or their names and dates of birth and death. Once exhumed from the earth, the skull became representative of a tombstone.

Although the Bone House resides within the Catholic Church walls, it did not discriminate against religion or class and accepted all skulls with historical community ties to the land. Ties to these families are still present today in Hallstatt and nearby communities. Extensive records tied to the skulls which date back to the 17th century, are stored by the Catholic Church. These records include birth, marriage, and death certificates and make Hallstatt an anthropologist’s haven for research in genetic studies.

The Parish Church, located just above the Church of St. Michael, share a parcel of land and the cemetery with one another. The Parish Church is one of the most recognizable structures photographed in Hallstatt.

The Hallstatt Culture is related to the Proto-Celtic and early Celtic people of Europe’s Early Iron Age, 800-450 BC. The civilization is known for its nearby salt mine. Salt production has been traced back to these times. Well preserved artifacts ranging throughout time have been discovered in the mine, due to the salt; and some of them are displayed in the Hallstatt Museum.

Entrance to Hallstatt was only possible by boat or by following very narrow trails until 1890. Despite limited access, the metal work artifacts discovered were advanced for their time, and the salt mine near Hallstatt is the world’s oldest salt mine. The civilization itself was thus advanced for its time. Hallstatt also takes ownership of the ‘world’s oldest pipeline’. Since 1595, over 13,000 hollowed out trees served as a 40-kilometer brine pipeline from Hallstatt to Ebensee.

In 1846, a prehistoric cemetery was discovered by Johann Georg Ramsauer (1795-1874). Although no settlement was discovered, it is believed that the village which exists today may have been built on top of the early civilization. Over 1,300 burials were found, including 2,000 individuals. This number included women and children, but not many infants. Burial goods found in the graves give way to believe that the first people of Hallstatt lived a life above ‘subsistence level,’ as a large number of burials contained a fair amount of ‘richness in grave goods.’

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Chateau Chambord Celebrating 500 Years 1519-2019

Written by: Gwenn Eyers Photography courtesy of: Chateau de Chambord

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he historic Château de Chambord is located in Chambord, France. Surrounded by its own wooded nature preserve, the palace is recognized as the most majestic château in the Loire Valley. Imagine approaching along the tree-lined entry road to see it rising up out of the forest! It is one of the world's most recognizable châteaux and it is easily identified due to its distinctive architectural style.

The château's French Renaissance architectural style blends traditional French medieval forms with the more classical Renaissance style. Chambord’s architectural and decorative elements have been replicated throughout Europe.

Is it a château, or is it a castle? Sixteenth-century châteaux, though very similar to traditional castle structures, transitioned away from that style because they did not place such a strong emphasis on defense in the overall design. Moats were common at this time, as well as extensive gardens. The layout for Château de Chambord brings to mind what we’d think of as a castle, with a central fortified

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tower, or keep, corner towers and a moat. However, these elements were designed to be decorative rather than defensive, and are reminders of times past. Today, the words "château" and "castle" are often used interchangeably.

In 1519, a palace arose in the heart of the Sologne marshlands, at the request of young King François I, who was recognized as a patron of the arts, in addition to being known as a passionate hunter. Chambord was initially planned to be the King’s part-time residence for hunting as he kept his royal residences at Amboise and the Château de Blois. Since it was constructed for brief stays for the sport of the hunt, it was impractical as a full-time residence. François spent very little time there, but when a hunt was conducted, as many as 2,000 people might have visited.

Chambord’s design underwent many changes during 28 years of construction (1519-1547) before being completed under the reign of Louis XIV. It is said that François considered it a significant representation of his power and wealth, hosting his archrival Emperor Charles V as it neared completion to show off his holdings.

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exquisite gardens

unfurnished over time. Planful interior decoration was initiated in the 18th century when Louis XIV used the chateau to house his father-in-law, the exiled king of Poland.

Twenty-first century visitors may now view art collections including paintings, furniture, and other objets d’art. Chambord is closely associated with other museums and castles in the acquisition of the highest-quality furnishings and displays, including grand tapestries that are rotated in and out. Today, displays show examples of how furnishings of the period may have changed as different hosts lived in Chambord. Many visitors tour the chateau to connect with its history and unique architecture rather than specifically to view period furnishings.

The château is considered to be emblematic of the French Renaissance. An example of the Renaissance style, Chambord was constructed by arranging rooms into self-contained suites, rather than using the medieval design with corridor rooms. The château features 440 rooms, more than 800 sculpted columns, masterful sculpture work, an elaborate roof, 282 fireplaces and several staircases. The king's royal emblem was a salamander, and if you look carefully, you can find salamanders sculpted in stone and carved into doors, walls, and ceilings in the palace. A Greek cross is formed by four vaulted hallways on each floor and is highlighted by an open spiral double helix staircase that was inspired by Leonardo da Vinci. The château is appointed with loggia, three chimney styles and eleven types of towers. The towers were designed without turrets and spires, setting them apart from the traditional castle design. As one approaches, the château’s facade resembles a small city rather than a single castle.

Today, formal French gardens seamlessly connect the Château de Chambord and the forest reserve, but there is no record that the builder-king ever actually developed gardens. Although archived plans show that Louis XIV ordered the planting of the front formal gardens, the work did not last long. The king of Poland stayed at Chambord from 1725-1733, and work started again. A garden in the French style was planted over 6.5 hectares, approximately 16 acres, according to a 1734 drawing, and a gardener was hired to maintain it. Significant terracing, landscaping and hydraulic works were added in the mid-18th century. The garden continued to be refined, but over time it disappeared, and in 1970 was entirely removed and replaced by lawn parterres. More recently, the moats and new formal French gardens were restored on the northern lawn, and work has begun creating an organic fruit and vegetable garden.

The Château de Chambord remained virtually vacant and ignored following King François’ death. There appeared to be a general lack of the owners' interest, but some attempts at upkeep and restoration were made during the 19th century. Chambord was relatively spared during the French Revolution, but some flooring and other timber was removed and furniture was sold off in its wake. Napoleon awarded the château to Marshal Louis-Alexandre Berthier in 1809, in recognition of his services. Berthier’s stay did not last long, and his widow offered to sell the château estate, with the Duke of Bordeaux taking ownership. The Duke, who preferred to be identified as the Count of Chambord, maintained the château and park, although, for personal and political reasons, he never resided there. He had a steward manage the estate, and, after major restoration projects, it was opened to the public. The French state placed it in receivership in 1915 and it was redeemed in 1930. Art collections from the Louvre and another château were transferred to the Château de Chambord for storage during World War II. In 2005, the National Estate of Chambord became state-owned and placed under the president of the French republic.

The château was never intended to serve as a full-time residence, and interior décor typically changed as sovereigns and their guests passed through. Unlike other châteaux and museums, there is no chain of history in furnishings passing down through King François’ and other residents’ family members. Overall, the Château remained Chateaux & Castles

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Chambord Castle is home to an amazing array of flora and fauna living in a natural environment. Deer, boar, birds, bats, dragonflies, newts, and salamanders all find their home there. Located in a beautiful wooded park as large as the city of Paris, Chambord has been home to grand events and hunts. The Nature Reserve is a member of the European ecological network NATURA 2000.

Daily tours are provided via an all-terrain vehicle with guides to show visitors the ponds, heaths, and prairies of Europe’s largest enclosed nature reserve. The enclosure surrounding the chateau’s grounds is an amazing 20 miles long. Bicyclists and walkers will enjoy scenic tour routes exploring the biodiversity of the park. Observation points and educational supports are available.

The Château de Chambord was entered on the initial list of French historical monuments as early as 1840, and has been classified as a UNESCO’s World Heritage site.

Beautiful light shows illuminate the monument at night.

The château is open year-round and hosts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. “Visiting Chambord, you enter a world apart, suffused with mystery, opening the doors of genius,” boasts their website. www.chambord.org Visitors typically climb the grand central staircase and tour the three floors of the keep. More than sixty rooms are open to the public. Both self-guided tours and guided tours are offered in English and French. Innovative HistoPad tours use the latest technology to provide more than an hour of recorded commentaries on the château’s history and architecture. These tours of the château as it was in François’ time are available in 12 languages. Also included are interactive maps, 3D and virtual reality tours of eight rooms, a visitor’s guide for 24 rooms in the chateau, and a treasure hunt for children. Christmas celebrations and other special events offer the opportunity for young and old to experience the history of this 500-year-old treasure.

Chambord Castle is about a two-hour drive from Paris and the nearest train station is about 25 minutes away, with a seasonal shuttle available. , for terrific insights to plan your visit. The Chambord website provides tourist information including recreational activities and events, exhibition calendars, maps, and details about gift shops and restaurants. Their Le Grand Saint-Michel restaurant has been awarded two Michelin Red Forks and one Michelin Plate. Lodging is offered on the property with three-star and four-star guest houses, (gîtes), offering accommodations near the steps of the castle. With their own stately décor and private gardens, these adjoining guest houses can host eight people in each. An estate farm with a private garden, located at the edge of the forest near the observatories, can welcome up to six people. Reservations may be made via the website.

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The château features 440 rooms, more than 800 sculpted columns, masterful sculpture work, an elaborate roof, 282 fireplaces and several staircases.

Master gardners can now spend a weekend learning how to tend vegetable gardens just like the gardeners of Chambord!

Volume 2 • Issue 1

exquisite gardens

Chateau de Chambord in the heart of the Loire Valley is one of the most visited places in all of France. About 700,000 people visit the stately chateau each year.

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Taking a Chance “If we choose to walk into a forest where a tiger lives, we are taking a chance.

If we swim in a river where crocodiles live, we are taking a chance.

If we visit the desert or climb a mountain or enter a swamp where snakes have managed to survive, we are taking a chance.” – Peter Benchley

Image by Christine Sponchia.

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a finer taste

grand hotel Kronenhof Pontresina

A

timeless Swiss hotel just outside of St. Moritz in the Upper Engadine awaits your visit. Welcoming guests since 1848, this neo-baroque hotel has experienced a few conversions and name changes, but has rightfully earned its nickname, The Grand Dame.

The mountainside escape survived the First and Second World War with the assistance of a little wine shop featuring Valtellina wine. After the town of St. Moritz hosted the Olympic Winter Games in 1928 and 1948, the hotel boomed once again and has since continually welcomed guests from all over the world.

Switzerland

Photography Courtesy of: Grand Hotel Kronenhof

Whether one seeks a relaxing spa getaway, plans to celebrate a milestone in life, or is called to discuss business in the fumidor louge—your stay in winter, spring, summer or fall is destined to be a grand one.

Guests will enjoy sampling regional wines in the oak cellar, having dinner at one of the fine dining establishments, or seeking a little friendly competition in the bowling alley.

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Wake up to an elegant breakfast or celebrate a special dinner in the neo-baroque Grand Restaurant.

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Volume 2 • Issue 1

lounge in style

Satiate your taste buds at gourmet restaurant Kronenstübli, where ItalianMediterranean and French gourmet meals are served. The chef ’s speciality is Canard à la Presse. Experience a night cap fit for James Bond, in the the Smoking Room and choose from a selection of fine cigars or a drink from the Bourbon, Whiskey & Rum collection. Don't pass up a visit to the wine cellar!

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Volume 2 • Issue 1

"Taking the stairs" gives on a whole new meaning at Kronenhof. Inhale the fresh Alpine air from your balcony and embrace the sweeping views of the Bernina Alps.

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