ISSUE THREE
Winter 2021/22
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www.coastpathmag.co.uk
M A G I C A L
M I L E S
WELCOME
CONTRIBUTORS
Not sure about you, but it seems that we have blinked, and the Summer is behind us. One minute we are hauling boxes of the Summer printed edition all around the coast, where we were lucky enough to meet some of you and catch glimpses of the unique places along the route; now, we are plunged into Winter darkness.
We would like to thank all of our contributors, who have helped to make issue three of Coast Path Magazine a collection of salty goodness, by providing photography or copy.
We discovered how critical the path is for some of our smaller towns and villages, who keep everything crossed that walkers and users of the trail will keep coming throughout the colder months. If you are planning a day hike or visit, please do so carefully considering the weather and don’t forget to pause along the route, as we hear from many venues that would love to welcome you. Thank you to all our contributors and readers; we wish you all a healthy festive season and hope you enjoy this edition. Julie and Amanda Editors
If you are interested in advertising or contributing to an upcoming issue, please email hello@coastpathmag.co.uk or visit our website at coastpathmag.co.uk Check out our merchandise at coastpathapparel.co.uk
Julie Williams, Amanda Duffin, South West Coast Path Association, Liam Alford (cover), Ruth King, Luxury Family Hotels, BAM Bamboo Clothing, Alison Webber, Nathaniel Gonzales Oxford, Adrian Olsen, Steve Elliott, Matthew Dixon, James Loveridge, Jim Ayres, Gary Holpin, Ian Perkins, Andy Lyons, Derek Billings at Lulworth Estate, Luxury Family Hotels, Channel Events, Mike Passman, Richie Moore, The Social Swim Group (Karen Scott, Danielle Ash, Rachel Dalton, Louise Round, Becky Davis, Claire Peebles, Adie Sidford, Lucy Davies, Kym Storkey, Katie Robb, Kim Barber and Jo Carter), David Gray, Finisterre, Kristina Banholzer, Steph Conway, Bluefin SUPs, Adam Rees, Mark Wiggins, Stephanie Boon, Nell Barrington and Madeleine Issitt. Published by Coast Walking UK Ltd. @swcoastwalking on Instagram Design by Salty Air Design Limited. saltyair.design
The articles in this issue reflect the opinions of their respective authors and are not necessarily those of the publishers and the editorial team. © 2021/22 Coast Path Magazine. All rights reserved.
CONTENTS 04. 10. 18. 24. 26. 33. 38. 46. 54. 58.
The SWCP Association Walk Ideas - A Walk Through Time 10 Reasons To Visit In The Winter Making Time For The Little Things Wild Night Running Birds In The Bay A Cornish Adventure Taking The Cure - Top 10 Sea Pools Commitment To The Coast - Finisterre Power Of The Pack
6 4 . A SUPLove Story 7 0 . BAM - Innovating For You And The Planet 7 4 . Handplane Heaven 7 9 . Lessons For Lulworth 9 0 . Winter Walker Wonders 9 4 . Path People - With The Elements 9 8 . Path People - One More Mountain Left To Climb 1 0 2 . Path People - Mads With A Bag 1 0 6 . Instagram - Your Pictures 1 0 8 . Classified Listings Coast Path Magazine
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Photography: Rudy's owner Laura
Pawesome adventures on the Path Look out for original content from the South West Coast Path Association whenever you see this logo!
Stay Safe with Your Dog The Coast Path is a great place for a dog with lots of exciting smells and things that they would love to chase. Sadly however, we hear of many incidences where dogs go too close to the edge, or chase something over a cliff. That’s why it’s really important to keep your dog on a lead. To find out more about staying safe on the Path and get advice about walking your dog near livestock and other people, visit southwestcoastpath.org.uk/dogs 4
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he nights are drawing in and the weather is turning colder, but even so, many of us are still dreaming of days at the beach. Yes, it’s that time of year again when dog owners and their four-legged friends get to reclaim access to beaches, and with that comes a plethora of coastal walkies to be enjoyed. The South West Coast Path Association caught up with their newest volunteer, Rudy the Ambassadog and his owner Laura to find out more about their favourite stretch on the Coast Path…. Rudy was absolutely thrilled to become this year’s South West Coast Path Ambassadog and we celebrated by adventuring along his favourite section of the SWCP between Zennor and St Ives. This section is a challenge, with rock clambering in places and varying terrain, but makes for a great day trip, with dog and human friendly things to stop and experience along the way. You can join the Coast Path from various points, but Rudy likes to start in Zennor and make his way along to The Carracks. This gets the most challenging rock clambering part completed first. Along this stretch, we like to pause at Zennor Head and take in the stunning views. It is quite close to the edge in places though, so Rudy is always kept on a short lead. There is, however, good access to a small cove in one section where he enjoys some freedom to run and a swim in the sea. The Carracks is a beautiful mid-point to stop at. The name comes from "carrek", meaning 'rock' in Cornish, which highlights the focal points of the scenery very well. For a slightly shorter walk there is an option of turning in land here and heading back to Zennor. If you’re in it for the long haul, keep following the SWCP towards St Ives.
This section is easier than the first with flatter terrain but continues to provide dazzling views. Rudy loves to spot the boats moving around this part of the coast doing short day trips from St Ives. He secretly wishes he could swim that fast! When you reach St Ives, there are plenty of dog friendly places to eat and drink - you can even find dog ice-cream! There are many gorgeous beaches that Rudy likes to explore, and with most dog bans lifted by September or October, it’s the perfect time to check them out. There is a nice easy return route inland, which offers a change in scenery and terrain. It is easy-to-follow, across the countryside and farmland, with excellent wildlife waiting to be spotted. Rudy, being an athletic dog, likes jumping over the styles. This can be problematic however due to him being much quicker than me, which does tend to provide some laughs to others who join us on our walks. There can be lots of cattle in some of the fields here so we find that it helps to pause slightly before walking past to ensure Rudy is calm first. Once you’ve made it back to Zennor there is a choice of pubs and cafes to reward yourself in! Follow in Rudy’s pawprints with one of our free walks on this beautiful stretch of Coast Path. • • • •
Challenging: Zennor - 5.0 miles (8.0 km) Challenging: St Ives to Pendeen - 13.7 miles (22.0 km) Moderate: Clodgy Point - 3.3 miles (5.2 km) Easy: St Ives Town Trail - 1.9 miles (3.0 km)
Shop and Show your Support for the Coast Path It’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas as the crisp autumn weather leads us into festive December. The South West Coast Path online Shop has a range of gorgeous gifts to purchase. Show your support and grab a gift for loved ones or treat yourself! We love the new bespoke Coast Path tea towels made from ethically sourced superior cotton and designed by From Land and Sea. Christmas card packs show photographic wintry scenes along the Coast Path, and the Charity’s 2022 Calendar will provide you with beautiful images and inspiration to explore our magnificent coastal landscape. If you or a friend are a keen walker then the Coast Path Gift Pack may be the ultimate gift to get you motivated on your 2022 adventure along the Path. It includes the 2021-22 Guide, Reverse Guide, Personal Log Book, and a wooden pen.
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Every Mile Matters’ By The South West Coast Path Association
‘Every Mile Matters’ has never been truer - Make a Difference With the world’s focus on the climate crisis during G7 and COP 26, the importance of trails and climate change is an important issue for the Coast Path. This year, the charity has co-hosted two global events this year to discuss the impacts, mitigations and challenges of how trails and trail organisations address climate change. At COP 26 we saw commitments made around reforestation, green finance and stopping coal. However, there is still much more that needs doing if we’re going to hold the line at a 1.5 degree rise in global temperatures. The flagship ‘Every Mile Matters’ campaign is used to persuade trail-users to think more deeply about how the Coast Path is cared for and why access to the coastal landscape is so vital. It’s also an important platform to fundraise for the National Trail’s future and communicate about how we as a charity are playing our part to address the big issues affecting the Coast Path’s communities: namely health and wellbeing, our local economy, and perhaps most importantly of all, the environmental crisis. Every Mile Matters is gaining momentum and over £100k has been raised less than a year after launch. Thousands of individuals have engaged with the campaign online and over 150 individuals have donated or fundraised in support of one of the world’s great trails. Given that over 9 million people use the Trail each year though, there’s still a long way to go before reaching everyone with these important messages. One of the key ways that you can help the campaign to grow is using the hashtag #EveryMileMatters and sharing the links to the campaign when posting about your Coast Path adventures on social media. Thanks so much to everyone who has done this or supported in some way already. >
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EMM Environment Quilted Heather Porthgwarra West Cornwall (Newquay to Falmouth) Photo by Jim Ayres
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2021 has been another of extreme weather and sobering climate change predictions, but also inspiring and creative solutions from our partners. So, in this year of G7 and Cop26 being hosted in the UK, a conscious effort is being made to bring environmental messaging to the campaign’s fore. As keen walkers and runners we all need to take action, both individually and collectively, for the future of the Trail and the planet. As the charity that looks after the Trail, this primarily means funding and championing as many environmentally-focussed projects along the Coast Path as we can and sharing how Coast Pathusers can make a difference – through their behaviour and spending. So far this year the charity has been involved in a wide range of environmentally focussed work including: • Funding several coastal-erosion mitigation projects on the Trail, including at Rinsey and the Lizard, both in West Cornwall. • Co-hosting a virtual Trails Summit and COP 26 Forum with the World Trails Network to shine a light on the big issues affecting trails globally. • Engaging users of the Path on the issue of public transport access through an online survey. • Supporting the Million Mile Beach Clean along the Coast Path with Surfers Against Sewage. •
Launched a climate change trail app for Slapton, South Devon using augmented reality to bring to life the changing coast in this particularly fragile environment.
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Supporting the production of Living on the Edge a documentary film about the climate change impacts along the coast in Cornwall, by Cornwall Climate Care.
• Reviewing the environmental footprint of the Coast Path Association and looking for ways to reduce, re-use and then recycle.
Piece of the Coast Path Given to World Leaders A small piece of the Coast Path was given to World leaders at the G7 Summit earlier this year. Hand crafted pens carved from an old South West Coast Path fingerpost were presented along with a message on why this world class trail needs support.
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EMM Environment. West Bay by James Loveridge
NEWS
Photography: Courtesy of Fotonow
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A walk through time By The South West Coast Path Association
ith its 250-million-year-old red cliffs, iconic rock formations and nature-rich freshwater lagoon, the Jurassic Coast boasts some of the South West Coast Path’s most diverse walking. Climb to the highest point on England’s south coast at Golden Cap, hunt for fossils in the quaint village of Charmouth and gaze out over Purbeck’s captivating white chalk stacks. Discover the true beauty of East Devon and Dorset on this epic walk through time. We’ve put together this unforgettable nine-day itinerary for you to take on the 95 mile long, world-famous Jurassic Coast. As England’s first UNESCO designated natural World Heritage Site, you’ll soon discover why this stretch of coast attracts visitors from far and wide. Starting in the historic seaside town of Exmouth – western gateway to the Jurassic Coast – walk through 185 million years of the Earth’s history. Explore the fascinating Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, that make up the time when dinosaurs and giant reptiles walked the Earth. Get to know the many charming towns and villages on the way, that are ready to refuel weary walkers with award-winning food, unique local ales and a restful night’s sleep. Discover the magnificent Undercliffs National Nature Reserve – the closest thing to a tropical rainforest in England. Search for your very own fossils at world-famous sites like Lyme Regis and Charmouth, where you might find your very own prehistoric souvenir. Breath in the fresh sea air as you climb to the highest point on the south coast at Golden Cap and walk along the golden cliffs of West Bay and gaze upon iconic rock formations like the arch of Durdle Door. >
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Steps at St Aldhelm's Head Photographer Alison Webber
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Exmouth to Sidmouth 20.1 km /12.5 miles.
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Chalky cretaceous rocks meet red triassic cliffs View from Beer Head Photographer Adrian Olsen
Seaton to Seatown 22.9 km / 14.2 miles. A walk of contrast awaits as you leave the town of Seaton behind and embark on a journey through rich vegetation, over wild, crumbling cliffs and through pretty seaside settlements. The Coast Path descends into the dense woodland of the Undercliffs National Nature Reserve. The Undercliff, which is formed entirely from active coastal landslides, is humid and sheltered, providing a perfect habitat for ferns, fungi, orchids, wild clematis, and insects. Later you’ll emerge into open fields, where you’ll find yourself at Lyme Regis with its historic harbour known as ‘The Cobb’, shops, refreshments, and ammonite-shaped streetlights. Continue inland slightly then drop back to the sea at Charmouth before making the climb up to the spectacular Golden Cap, finally arriving in Seatown.
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16.6 km / 10.3 miles. Leave the red cliffs of Sidmouth as you set off along this rugged section of the Jurassic Coast, crossing 250-million-year-old rocks. If you choose to walk in spring and summer time you will see numerous butterflies enjoying the masses of wildflowers on top of the red cliffs at Branscombe. The red Triassic earth gives way to striking white chalk around Beer before you arrive at the mouth of the River Axe and the rich red cliffs leading into the town of Seaton.
The SWCP offers gentle walking out of Exmouth as it enters the East Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with the Geoneedle at Orcombe Point marking the beginning of the World Heritage Site. An easy walk along the promenade sets you up for more variety ahead, including crossing the River Otter at the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve (a good place for bird watching), open field walking, woodland, and high cliffs, culminating in a descent to the Regency town of Sidmouth, with its attractive Esplanade, shops and restaurants. Otter Estuary Photographer Nathaniel Gonzales Oxford
Sidmouth to Seaton
Golden Cap Dorset Photographer Gary Holpin
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Seatown to Abbotsbury 20.3 km / 12.4 miles. Start your day with some steep climbs before easing out to a level walk beyond Burton Bradstock. Look out for soaring peregrines at Burton Cliff then continue on the Path to the 18-mile pebbly sweep of Chesil Beach – a Site of Special Scientific Interest at its very best in spring and summer. The hundreds of mute swans at Abbotsbury Swannery make for an extraordinary sight at the end of your day and there is a small selection of welcome refreshments in the historic village of Abbotsbury.
Fire Beacon with views towards Chesil Beach Photographer Steve Elliott
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Isle of Portland 20.9 km / 13 miles.
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Abbotsbury to Ferrybridge 17.5 km / 10.9 miles. From the historic village of Abbotsbury, pass through woodland and rolling fields before descending to follow the Path along the shores of the Fleet Lagoon to Ferrybridge. At the heart of Dorset’s Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, this section offers truly unique views of Chesil Beach and the Fleet. Stories of a past of smuggling and wrecking add another level to the rich history of the area. Continue along the edge of the Fleet to the charming old port of Weymouth – the beginning of the route across to the rugged Isle of Portland. Punch and Judy Photographer Alison Webber
Sunrise Over Pulpit Rock Portland Dorset Photographer Matthew Dixon
Follow either the road from Ferrybridge or the shingle ridge of Chesil Beach to join the Coast Path that will take you around the Isle of Portland, world famous for its building stone. This is a walk of dramatic, rugged cliffs, rare plants, hidden coves and stunning views. The Path offers fairly easy walking along old quarry tracks with some short, steep ascents and descents in places. Take time to enjoy the sculpture park and impressive views from Portland Bill before walking the east coast to Ferrybridge.
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White Nothe Dorset looking towards Bat's Head Photographer Ian Perkins
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Ferrybridge to Lulworth Cove 23.3 km / 14.5 miles. From the hustle and bustle of Weymouth to the quiet rural paths leading to high chalk cliffs on the way to Lulworth Cove. Take your time on some particularly steep ascents and descents on the way to Lulworth Cove and admire the breath-taking views of the limestone arch of Durdle Door, and back towards the high cliffs of White Nothe, Weymouth Bay and Portland beyond. A good selection of restaurants and pubs await your arrival after a long day on the Coast Path.
Photo courtesy of Lulworth Estate
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Lulworth Cove to Worth Matravers 20.9 km / 13 miles. Expect spectacular views on this isolated stretch that rollercoasters along the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. Walkers are rewarded with staggering views of sweeping bays, folded cliffs and richly coloured limestone-loving wildflowers and butterflies. After exploring the Kimmeridge Marine Centre, continue carefully along the Kimmeridge Ledges and onwards to Houns-Tout cliff, which stands at 490 feet (150 m) above sea level and enjoy the views from St Aldhelm’s Head. Finally, take the short walk inland to the pretty village of Worth Matravers where you can find refreshments at the end of a long but exhilarating day.
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Down with Old Harry Photographer Andy Lyons
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Worth Matravers to Poole 19.8 km / 12.3 miles. High, level cliff walking to Durlston Head is followed by an easy amble along the promenade of the seaside town of Swanage. On the open grassland and woodland around Studland, take time to enjoy the beautiful seasonal wildflowers and butterflies and the spectacular views of the chalk stacks of Old Harry and look out for bottlenose dolphins offshore. Take in the views across Poole Bay to Bournemouth and the Isle of Wight, then, just before the ferry to Sandbanks, a blue steel sculpture at Shell Bay marks the end of your journey and the end of the South West Coast Path.
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Returning to the Coast Path, ignore the small paths heading inland to continue above Smith's Cliff to where the Coast Path turns right and appears to be heading inland. As the Coast Path turns left again in front of the fields, take the path carrying straight on ahead, heading inland towards Bossiney. Follow the green lane and then the tarmac lane to the main Bossiney Road.
Immediately in front of you as you reach the road, the mound topped by a Scots pine, to the right of the Methodist chapel, is Bossiney Mound. Arthurian legends claim that Arthur's round table lies beneath the mound; and one midsummer night, when Arthur and his knights are due to make their comeback, the table will rise out of the mound for their use. It is thought that this too was the site of a Romano British settlement. As at Tintagel Castle, the Normans later built a castle on the early site, (a motte and bailey in this case), and it is these remains that are visible today.
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On the main road turn right and follow Bossiney Road around onto Fore Street and back to the Visitor Centre.
WATER ALONG THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH DOWNLOAD THE FREE REFILL APP REFILL.ORG.UK
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Polurrian Road, Mullion, Cornwall, TR12 7EN
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9 reasons to visit the path in the winter
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Gone are the high, halcyon days of summer; winter is here in all its dark, grey glory. This isn’t a season to dread, though – far from it. Embrace chilly winter walks on the South West Coast Path with the fresh air tingling your cheeks, the frost creating a delicate lace backdrop and a warm pub lying invitingly in wait, just around the corner. Here are nine reasons why winter might just be your new favourite time of year for taking on the trail. Words by Ruth King
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Take part in festive traditions
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Winter in the South West is the true off season, with visitor numbers much lower than the rest of the year. Plan your visit for the colder months and you can roam the uncrowded coast path with a front-row seat to the region’s spectacular scenery. Stroll silent paths past frosty foliage, listening to the crashing waves below and the call of the seabirds above. A visit to the South West Coast Path in winter is a wonderful way to immerse yourself in the elements, press pause on everyday life and feel restored after time in the great outdoors.
Christmas and New Year festivities are the highlight of many communities’ calendars, and the South West is no different. Visit the South West Coast Path in winter and you can join in the festive fun, whether you want to take in the magical Christmas lights in traditional harbour villages, or try something a little more unusual. Quirkier highlights include Penzance’s Montol Festival, which celebrates the winter solstice with costumes and masks; Mousehole’s Tom Bawcock’s Eve, which commemorates a brave villager by eating stargazey pie on December 23rd, and, if you fancy a party, Bideford is famous for its rip-roaring New Year’s Eve festivities. Coast Path Magazine
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Spot nature in its glory While spring and summer are often seen as the time that new life springs forth, winter has its own part to play in the cycle of the natural world. Female grey seals have their babies in autumn and early winter, and Falmouth and Godrevy Point in Cornwall are some of the best places to spot these marine families – just make sure to give the mums and their pups plenty of space. And keen ornithologists will be in their element in winter too, with the clifftops around the coast path offering eagle-eyed birdwatchers a chance to spot Balearic shearwater, black-browned albatross and even the puffin.
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Boost health and wellbeing With winter bringing shorter days and less sunlight, it’s more important than ever to get out in the fresh air, with a coast path walk having a wide range of potential health benefits. Time spent outdoors will boost your Vitamin D levels, which are often low in the winter months, as well as improving your immune system as we come into the dreaded cold and flu season. And, with light therapy often prescribed for suffers of seasonal affective disorder, and time spent in nature proven to do wonders for the mind, an outdoor walk could even increase your mood!
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Try some cold-water therapy Walking isn’t the only outdoor winter activity that can improve your health and wellbeing. If you can brave the cold, take the plunge into one of the South West’s many tidal pools this winter. Whether you choose to visit a tidal pool roughly hewn out of rock or a more refined coastal lido, studies have shown that cold-water therapy increases immunity, decreases inflammation and stress, and could even ward off dementia. However, cold water shock is a risk, so do your research before you dip and take plenty of layers to wear afterwards.
Image from Luxury Family Hotels, Fowey Hall
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Make the most of the pubs, hotels and cafes
Image from Luxury Family Hotels
The South West Coast Path is peppered with charming hotels, cafes and traditional pubs, which really come into their own in the colder months. There’s nothing like warming up in front of a roaring log fire after a chilly winter walk, a mug of hot chocolate or mulled wine in your hand. Winter is the perfect excuse to sample of the South West’s finest establishments, and the South West Coast Path website has a wide range of walks that factor in a well-earned stop-off at a pub or café – the short, family-friendly walk around Hive Beach in Dorset is a particularly crowd-pleasing route. luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk
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Enjoy the (relatively) mild climate While the South West can’t rival destinations like the Algarve when it comes to winter temperatures, its unique geography means that it’s one of the warmest areas in the UK to spend the colder months. As the rest of the UK’s temperatures plunge, the region’s coastal areas enjoy fewer frost days and relatively moderate temperatures throughout the winter, as the air temperature is kept in check by the coastal waters. When it comes to UK cities, Plymouth in Devon and Poole in Dorset both boast the highest maximum and minimum winter temperatures, as well as the most hours of winter sunshine – something to bear in mind when you’re dreaming of winter sun!
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Soak up the culture Even though the South West is warmer than the rest of the UK in winter, let’s be realistic: there is a chance that the weather could take a turn. But that’s no bad thing – in fact, it’s a great excuse to sample the many cultural and historical gems dotted across the region instead. Dodge the rain showers by ducking into some of the fantastic galleries and museums just off the coast path – Tintagel Castle, the Tate St Ives, Mount Edgcumbe Castle and SEA LIFE Weymouth are just some of the popular South West attractions that remain open in winter and are all just a stone’s throw from the trail.
Tintagel Castle
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Embrace the weather Winter has arrived, and so there’s only one thing for it – embrace the season and all it offers. On the coast path, you’ll be immersed in whatever winter brings, whether it’s frosty mornings where the breeze is still as stone, or tempestuous days with wind-whipped stormy seas. Check the forecast, wrap up warm and go exploring in the elements – you’ll feel all the better for getting out on the coast path this winter.
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Moonfleet Manor A historic Georgian manor on the shores of the Fleet, with direct access onto the South West Coast Path. To book call 0208 0765555 Or visit moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk
Fowey Hall Offering stunning views over the Fowey Estuary, this stylish hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from the South West Coast Path. To book call 0208 0765555 Or visit foweyhallhotel.co.uk
P A T H S T AY S
Making time for the little things Luxury Family Hotels is a collection of five outstanding family-friendly hotels with distinct personalities across the South of England. Words by Luxury Family Hotels
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Follow Moonfleet Manor on Instagram @moonfleetmano
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Follow Fowey H all on Insta gram @foweyh
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hese include Fowey Hall in Fowey, Cornwall, thought to be the inspiration for The Wind in The Willows’ Toad Hall, as well as Moonfleet Manor, a sprawling country estate overlooking Dorset’s Jurrassic Coast. Fowey Hall is located a five-minute walk from the South West Coast Path, whilst the coast path runs through the grounds of Moonfleet Manor! These award-winning hotels are incredibly well set up for families, offering 90 minutes of complimentary childcare per night in the ‘Four Bears Den’, a Luxury Family Hotels staple. However, with excellent facilities ranging from indoor and outdoor swimming pools to cinema rooms, spas and restaurants with their very own kitchen gardens, these properties provide all guests with an opportunity to spend precious time with those who matter most – including well behaved canine members of the family! Following a multi-million-pound refurbishment, the ultra-stylish Fowey Hall reopened its doors in 2020 with a raft of new facilities, with further developments to be unveiled next summer.
Fowey Hall
Moonfleet Manor is also about to undergo an extensive refurbishment of all its bedrooms and bathrooms and will re-open at the end of February with a fresh new look for 2022. Managing Director of Luxury Family Hotels, Simon Maguire says:
Moonfleet Manor
“We continue to see exceptional demand for UK staycations into next year and accordingly we are further investing in our offering to elevate the Luxury Family Hotels experience to even greater heights. From further property developments and refurbishments to brand partnerships and wellness offerings, 2022 is set to be our best year yet!” luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk
Moonfleet Manor
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Wild Night Running
The Southwest Coast Path is a trail runners' playground! The natural terrain, secluded combes, wooded valleys, dramatic coastline and open moorland, make for a fantastic landscape to immerse yourself in and enjoy a genuinely wild running experience. Words by Channel Events
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hatever your trail running needs, there is something for you. The rugged and beautiful Southwest Coast Path from Combe Martin to Minehead is stunningly wild and remote and under cover of darkness creates the Northern border to Europe's first Dark Skies Reserve, where you be spellbound by the night sky. Exmoor National Park was designated Europe's first Dark Skies reserve, so what better place to experience the thrill of trail running than at night. Whether it's a swift 5km to an ultra-marathon, you can plan the adventure that suits you!
For many, running happens when the days are longest, the weather friendly, and in the daylight hours, but don't hibernate your running this winter, get out there and explore this fantastic landscape after dark and throw yourself into a new world of adventure.
So why run after dark? There are many reasons and benefits to hitting the trails after nightfall. Firstly, you'll find the trails much quieter, with the majority of other trail users sticking to daylight hours. You'll see and hear a variety of wildlife, some of which are nocturnal, so your only chance to see them would be post sundown. With the reduced number of other trail users and the quieter roads at this time of day, you'll find yourself immersed in a surreal environment where your senses are heightened. The sounds of the birds in the trees, the rivers raging through the valleys and the wind in the trees will mean you can leave your headphones behind and listen to nature's very own playlist. > Coast Path Magazine
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With the only visibility coming from the light of your head torch, you'll find your running improves as you gain more confidence. You'll relax in the environment and deal with the technicality of the trail as it unfolds in front of you. Do I need any specialist equipment? If you are already an experienced trail runner, you'll have most of the required equipment. If not, then you'll need a good pair of trail shoes with suitable tread to give you grip, a wind/waterproof top, appropriate running clothing for the weather and the lower temperatures at night. It's worth carrying fluids, snacks, a mobile phone, a map (paper or electronic) hat and gloves, a basic first aid kit and an emergency thermal blanket/survival bag. You may not carry all of this on your daytime runs, but you need to be mindful that you are entering a remote environment where meeting others will be unlikely should you get into trouble. The most essential piece of equipment is a head torch with a minimum of 300 lumens of power. If you are serious about running at night, do your research and purchase a good quality headtorch with good battery life. If rechargeable, make sure it's fully charged every run; if it takes batteries make sure you carry spares. The last thing you want is to be mid-run, in the middle of nowhere and lose your only light source. A headtorch is highly recommended over a chest torch or handheld as the beam of light will shine in the direction you are looking, making route finding much more manageable and keeping your hands free. What safety considerations do I need to think about? Never run alone; make sure you have a buddy or buddies to run with. Even in the current Coronavirus situation, you can still keep socially distant and enjoy a run with others. Make sure someone at home knows where you are running and what time to expect you home. If you have a phone signal, communicate to those at home when you start your run and finish. Your route should have public access or permission from the landowner. Be equipped for the run you have planned, taking into account the length, the terrain, the remoteness and the weather. Know how many are in your group and regularly check that all members are present and ok.
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What next? You'll have seen the fantastic pictures in print and online, and you may have the confidence to explore yourself, and that's awesome. If you and your running buddies don't have the confidence to head out into the wilds of the coast path on your own, then there are many ways to gain the experience and confidence to enjoy trail running at night. Join a club and head out with the groups that night run, employ a coach/ guide to take you out and develop your skills, enter your local night running events or a combination of these. >
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If you are interested in night running events, then check out Channel Events. They are a local CIf you are interested in night running events, then check out Channel Events. They are a local Community Interest Company based in Minehead, the 'gateway to Exmoor'. They have a passion for the Coast Path and exposing more people to its beauty through mass participation event experiences. They organise the Dark Skies Series of 5km and 10km night trail running events, three of which use the Southwest Coast Path along the Somerset and North Devon coast and another using the England Coast Path at Brean.
Follow the Channel Events on Instagram @channelevents uk
Three of the Dark Skies Series events are based on the SWCP at stunning venues like Heddon's Mouth, Selworthy Beacon and Baggy Point, but you may also be interested in the others that head a little inland? Check out the other events at Fyne Court on the Quantock Hills, Watersmeet near Lynmouth, Longrun Meadow in Taunton and Brean Down in North Somerset. Grab those trail shoes, strap on your head torch and run wild after dark! Channel Events are an Exmoor National Park Partner and at the forefront of what they do lies in minimising the environmental impact of their events. This is achieved through sustainable initiatives like re-useable signage, compostable products and reduced carbon footprint. It's not about racing but about great experiences in great locations through challenge and participation. Interested? Check them out at channelevents.co.uk and get your entry in today. So, what are you waiting for? Grab those trail shoes, strap on that head torch and turn your trail running into a year-round passion.
Dark Skies Series Dates: Selworthy Stargazer, Minehead – 18th December 2021 Storm the Fort, Brean Down – 22nd January 2022 Assault of Baggy Point, Croyde – 12th February 2022 Waters Meet, Lynmouth – 12th March 2022 One Fyne Night, Broomfield – 19th April 2022 Moonlit Meadow Run, Taunton – 29th October 2022 Heddon Howler, Heddon Valley – 19th November 2022 Individual Event Ticket Price - £19.50 Somerset Mini Series (4 events) - £70.00 Devon Mini Series (3 events) - £52.50 Whole Series (7 events) - £122.50
The SW Coast path is an excellent training ground for runners and hill walkers. The North Coast in particular has a huge amount of elevation and technical terrain to test even a seasoned Mountain athlete. I and many others have found that the trails of Devon, Cornwall and Dorset are tough enough to prepare us for racing at a National level in the Mountains of Snowdonia, the Lake District, Scotland and beyond. - Dan Murdoch, lfracombe Running Club Coast Path Magazine
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Series Dates:
Moonlit Meadow Run 30th October 2021 Heddon Howler 20th November 2021 Selworthy Stargazer 18th December 2021 Storm the Fort 22nd January 2022 Baggy by Night 12th February 2022 Waters Meet 12th March 2022 One Fyne Night 9th April 2022
WINTER 2021/22
5 or 10 kilometre routes set in stunning Somerset and North Devon locations
From: £17.50 per runner
Full details at - www.channelevents.co.uk
Why not challenge yourself and enter the whole series?
EVERY DAY. EVERY TRAIL.
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Birds in the bay Thurlestone Bay is a bird-rich area of the South Hams part of Devon; the South West Coast Path follows the coastline from which you can visit our two Bird Reserves and explore the beaches and, at low tide, the rocks. By Mike Passman of Thurlestone Bay Birds
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aving been birdwatching in this area for more than 20 years since retiring and now living overlooking Thurlestone Marsh, I have also highlighted some of the exciting birds you could encounter during the Autumn and Winter months. Parking facilities at our starting point is the National Trust car park at South Milton Sands with a capacity for 200+ vehicles - charges are free if you are a National Trust Member or £6 per day if not (reduced to £3 from 1st November). Adjacent is the Beach House Cafe and one of the few public toilet facilities available. The car park is adjacent to the Devon Bird reserve of South Huish Marsh - it is one of the few freshwater lakes along the South Devon Coast. It is probably the third most important site in Devon for migrating birds and winter waterfowl visitors. During the Autumn and Winter months, you can encounter the following species - Wigeon, Teal, Shoveler, Pintail, Gadwall, Little Grebe, Mute Swan, Canada Goose, Water Rail, Little Egret, Heron, Water Pipit, Snipe and Jack Snipe. Passage waders recorded in the Autumn are Dunlin, Black-Tailed Godwit, Ruff, Curlew, Sandpiper, Little Stint, Green Sandpiper, Greenshank, Redshank. If Europe experiences a severe cold snap, birds will migrate to the Marsh, which is rarely completely frozen over. New arrivals can include - Golden Plover, Lapwing, White-fronted Goose, Glaucous Gull, Iceland Gull. In the Autumn of 2021, there were 3 records of Pectoral Sandpiper (a wader that breeds in North America) and a Spotted Crake - only the second record in over 20 years. On this part of the coastline is an extensive beach with some rocks to investigate at low tide - very popular with kite and windsurfers, bodyboarding and Kayaks. It is also one of the three dog-friendly beaches along this part of the Coast. Offshore you can encounter flocks of Gannet - a magnificent sight when diving from up to 20 feet into a shoal of Mackerel. Mediterranean gulls can be found amongst black-headed gulls' flocks on the rocks. Autumn passage finds flocks of common scoter flying through the bay and many Razorbill and Guillemot.
Waders & Rock Pits at South Milton Sands 18 Sept 2020 taken by Mike Passman
In 2021 the highlight were flocks of Balearic Shearwater; a new record day total of 500 were recorded. In Winter, you may see Red-Throated, Black-Throated and Great Northern Divers and small numbers of Brent Geese on the sea. Waders on the rocks or beaches can include ringed plover, oystercatcher, Dunlin, Sanderling and Turnstone. In the Winter, occasional visitors are Black Redstarts amongst the resident Rock Pipits. Walking towards >
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Glossy Ibis at South Huish Marsh 4 Sept 2020- taken by Mike Passman
Pectoral Sandpiper- South Huish Marsh 14 Nov 2021 taken by Richie Moore
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Bantham, you will cross a wooden footbridge across the water flowing out of South Milton Ley - if the sand bar has blocked the outflow, the water builds up, and when it breaks through, the sand can be up to 8 feet high. Crossing the bridge, you will see an extensive Reed bed to your right. This is the South Milton Bird Reserve owned and managed by Devon Birds. The reed beds extend inland for approx a mile - there is a permissive public footpath around the reserve; if you have the time, it is well worth a detour from the coast path. This reserve is one of the main breeding grounds for warblers in Devon - Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Reed Warbler and Sedge Warbler. In Autumn, birds returning to their wintering quarters in southern Europe and Africa are caught and ringed by a BTO qualified (British Trust for Ornithology) and authorised ringer Cettis Warbler, Grasshopper Warbler, Garden Warbler, willow warbler, along with occasionally spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest and Firecrest. It is also one of the main wintering sites for Chiffchaff which number up to 50, and the scarce Siberian Chiffchaff. Cold winter weather will see a big increase in Finches, Reed Bunting, Song Thrush, Redwings and Fieldfare. Distances travelled are difficult to appreciate - some of these birds travel almost 4000km (crossing the Sahara Desert) and then return to breed again at the ley, all without sat nav! Returning to our walk, the next beach reached is Leasfoot Beach. A remarkable fact for birds on this site occurred on 8th November 2015, when a male Desert Wheatear was found - this stayed on this beach until early March 2016.
Desert Wheatear on Leasfoot Beach Thurlestone 10 Nov 2021 taken by Mike Passman
The return route to the national trust car park is to walk to the golf club and return along the coastal path. I hope this article provides some insight into what you can see both birds and the beautiful devon coastline whilst taking in the wonderful sea air - your lungs will appreciate it. If you want to find out more about the birds that are recorded, visit our website, it is updated daily. thurlestonebaybirds.co.uk
On 9th November 2021, a female Desert Wheatear was found. These birds breed in North Africa, and as their name implies, they frequent deserts. This year's arrival is only the second record in 2021 throughout the United Kingdom. Continuing along the coast path with Thurlestone golf course adjacent to the path, you can encounter in Autumn - Wheatear, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Linnet, Whitethroat and Stonechat. In October 2018, a rare visitor was an Isabelline Shrike, a bird that breeds in Asia and winters in the Middle East. You will reach a point overlooking Bigbury Bay - in the morning sun, the view of the iconic Burgh Island Hotel and the bay will remain with you for some time. Here you choose paths, continue on and down the hill to Bigbury Bay or turn right and follow the path around the outside of Thurlestone golf course. This will eventually lead you to Thurlestone Church and the village, where you will find both the village shop and the local pub, The Village Inn, where you can sit down to a welcome drink and delicious food. 36
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Little Gull - South Huish Marsh - 26 Sept 2021, taken by Richie Moore
Waders - On the beach at South Milton Sands - by Mike Passman September 2020
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A Cornish adventure
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All photographs are supplied by members of the Social Swim Group.
The Social Swim Group, based in North Devon, was set up at the start of the first lockdown by Danielle, who loves swimming and cold water dipping and wanted to find more people who could join her on her adventures in the local area.
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By The Social Swim Group at Saunton (Karen Scott, Danielle Ash, Rachel Dalton, Louise Round, Becky Davis, Claire Peebles, Adie Sidford, Lucy Davies, Kym Storkey, Katie Robb, Kim Barber and Jo Carter)
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he wanted to create a safe place for people of all ages and genders to connect with others who wish to enjoy the water – significant both then and now in terms of physical and mental health. Within the Facebook group, which now has nearly 600 members, many small tribes of like-minded individuals quickly formed with a shared love of the ocean, bringing people together and developing friendships. One such tribe is this group of welcoming. These adventurous women regularly come together to share various adventures along the South West Coast Path, from local salty dips to trips to Exmoor and Dartmoor for new swimming opportunities. Our passion for cold water dipping has helped us form a tight-knit group, and the diversity of our backgrounds, careers, and life experiences has united us and given us a combined strength we didn’t know we possessed. This non-judgemental support network has proved that any of us can push well beyond our comfort zones and achieve whatever we set our minds to (albeit with a bit of advanced planning on occasions!). Earlier in the year, Karen came up with an idea to travel further afield to discover new swim spots and suggested travelling down the coast to Cornwall to explore and dip. So it was that at the start of October, 10 of us packed up our cars and campervans and headed to Porthtowan. Fortunately, one of the group, Rachel, was a previous resident of the area, and so her local knowledge meant we had an experienced guide for the weekend. We stayed at Mount Pleasant Eco Park mpecopark.co.uk about in a mixture of shepherds’ huts and motorhomes. Set in 42 acres of organic farmland in an area of outstanding natural beauty, the site also has a vegan café and outdoor amphitheatre. The different spaces are well laid-out and used to host events such as theatre shows, markets and workshops. But even with so much going on, the campsite is still incredibly restful with so much space. The far-reaching sea views lend a fantastic sense of space to the surroundings, and the facilities have a friendly, laidback vibe. There’s also a footpath from the campsite leading directly down to Porthtowan Beach. We arrived on a glorious Friday afternoon and made straight for the Porthtowan Tidal Pool, as the tide was coming in, and we only had a limited window in > 40
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which to go for a dip. After clambering up the rocks to the hidden pool, we had fun jumping in and cooling down after the drive down, but the waves were too much to resist, and we quickly made our way across the expanse of sand to the rolling waves. Unfortunately, just as we were enjoying some body surfing and white water jumping, one of the group stepped on a weaver fish (note to swimmers, it’s a good idea to wear wetsuit boots), cue a quick exit and everyone running up the beach. Luckily, we had some hot water on hand to treat the sting – and the chocolate cake brought by Claire definitely helped to ease the pain… The next stop was the charming beach at St Agnes, where the massive waves proved to be a big hit with everyone, resulting in us all spending over 45 minutes body surfing, laughing and playing in the white water, as well as watching the surfers. Fortunately, we’d put our bags high up the slipway, as we spent so long having fun that, by the time we got out, the sea was right up to the top of the bay. We quickly dressed, sipped our hot drinks and decided to warm up further by making the most of the remaining sunshine and walking along the coast path above the village to get a better view of the impressive vista before returning to the campsite and grabbing food at one of the local pubs. The Saturday morning saw us up bright and early (thanks for the cockerel impersonation, Danielle) and driving down to Treen to join the South West Coast Path, which would take us to our first swim of the day. Our excitement was increased by the words of a lovely local couple who told us stories of going to the first bay on our itinerary with their children when they were younger and said we were about to visit ‘the best beach in the world’. They weren’t wrong. As we walked along the coast path, we all went silent (quite unusual for a group of chatty women) as we peered over the edge and saw a beautiful slice of paradise, with glistening sand and turquoise water below us. There was just one set of footprints and a lone man lying down, sunbathing. We all hoped the beach we were heading for would be as beautiful, not realising that the path was about to double back on itself and lead us to that same destination. The descent to Pedn Vounder was perilous, to say the least, but its near inaccessibility is part of its charm. In fact, most of the party made it down safely (sorry, Kym, but thanks for all the fantastic photos). >
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The golden slither of sand we stepped onto was dominated by jagged headlands of granite cliffs and rocky outcrops and made us feel as if we were on a desert island cut off from the rest of the world. We were there just after high tide but, just before or after low tide (around 90 minutes on either side), a sandbar is revealed, creating a shallow crystal-clear lagoon just off the main beach, transforming the cove into something altogether more Caribbean. We were all so eager to get into the water that, when someone mentioned it was, in fact, a nudist beach, we didn’t need telling twice and stripped off to run naked into the sea. After splashing about in the surf, we decided to swim out to the sandbank to see if we could stand on it. We could. Local knowledge was essential here, and the man on the beach, who turned out to be a regular swimmer there, told us to stick to the middle of the cove and be careful not to get caught in the rips closer to the rocks, as there had been a tragic incident there the previous year. This was a sobering reminder to us all of the dangers of the sea and how important it is to be aware and not take any unnecessary risks. We would have liked to stay in the water a lot longer, but reluctantly came out before we got too cold and scrambled our way back up to the path and then to our cars, where we consumed more cake, this time a homemade spiced rum fruit cake. The next stop was Porthgwarra Cove to start the second adventure of the day – Walk 13 in Wild Swimming Walks Cornwall wildthingspublishing.com/ product/wild-swimming-walks-cornwall. However, our tummies were still rumbling after all the excitement, so we stopped for lunch at the Porthgwarra Cove Café staubynestatescottages.co.uk/porthgwarracove-cafe. This really is a hidden gem of a place to eat, with a delicious and mouth-watering array of dishes on offer. We’ve no idea how they create such excellent food in such a tiny kitchen. So, sufficiently refuelled, we started walking. The weather was most definitely on our side, and the sun blazed down on us as we made our way up the cliffs along with the hitherto described ‘Dartmoor on sea.’ Some of us were brave enough to approach the edge of the funnel hole – a giant blowhole which gave the headland its original name, Tol-Pedn-Penwith (translated from the Cornish to The Holed Headland of Penwith). The sea washes up dramatically through an underwater cave and up through the blowhole at 42
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high tide. The whole area is also a nature reserve for the once-rare Cornish choughs, not that we saw any, sadly. Those of us without a head for heights scrambled past and made our way quickly back to the coast path and walked towards two giant cones on top of the headland (somewhat reminiscent of two giant gnomes guarding the peninsula). These aid shipping and mark the Runnel Stone, a hazardous rock pinnacle. Apparently, as long as mariners can see the black and white cone, they are fine, but if the red one obscures the black and white one, then they’re in trouble. We were fine as we could see both. >
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We walked past the National Coastwatch Institution and marvelled at the dramatic granite cliffs below and in front of us. As we tasted the salty air whipping up from the sea below us, we all felt a fantastic sense of freedom and wonder at the spectacular landscape around us. The rock structures and formations are impressive and a proper sight to behold. Louise, who is a Marine Mammal Medic for British Divers Marine Life Rescue (bdmlr.org.uk) was on hand to point out all the seals hauled out on the beaches below and swimming in the sea in the bays and spoke to us all about the importance of observing from a safe distance and not disturbing them. Coincidentally, a couple of weeks after our trip, an injured seal pup was picked up by medics from Pedn Vounder and taken to a rehabilitation unit. After another pitstop for water and snacks, the final spot of the circular walk was Nanjizal Beach (also known as Mill Bay). Following a brief encounter with some wild ponies, we descended the wooden staircase leading to the picturesque boulder-strewn cove. One of the intriguing aspects of the bay is its everchanging sand levels, washed in and away with the tide. We were lucky enough to have sand to walk on as we made our way to the left of the beach towards the natural slit-like arch in the rock face, with its high cave and crystalclear waters. We clambered over rocks to reach a small sandy area at the entrance to the cave, and all the effort to get there was most definitely worth it, as before us was a magical blue inlet, with its dramatic, elegant archway towering above. We swam through the diaphanous turquoise water in front of us and climbed over more boulders to reach the cave, known as Zawn Pyg, or the Song of the Sea, with its cathedral-like ceiling. The water below was teeming with Cushion Starfish and anemones, and the whole Disney-like ambience was magnified by the cartoon-coloured pink rocks and boulders. A particular treat was the discovery of a sizeable Spiny Starfish. All in all, a truly magical, if not to say, surreal, experience. Becky decided she wanted to complete the experience at such an intriguing and unique part of the Cornish landscape with a quick dip in the sea; so, we all headed out across the rocks and seaweed and into the rolling waves, where we were delighted to be joined by a couple of seals. To complete the circular walk, we cut across the countryside, through farms and fields, and were > 44
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very different swim to the last time we were in the sea there, just a couple of days before. It was indeed very refreshing – and somewhat bracing.
soon back at our cars. It had been a running joke of the weekend that every time Lucy sat down and got her flask out for a hot drink, we all started to pack up and move on, leaving her to slurp the burning liquid too fast and, unfortunately, this pitstop was no different! We probably moved on quicker than planned as we decided not to dip at Porthgwarra due to the amount of seaweed. Thanks to the local knowledge of our guide, however, we went to Porthcurno instead, just below the Minack Theatre. As we marched down the track to the beach in our cossies, Dryrobes (other brands are available), flip flops and sliders, we walked past fully dressed families and couples enjoying the crisp autumnal sunshine. Once again, the waves were extremely lively, and we entertained ourselves in the shoreline break, body surfing and face planting on the beach – much to the amusement, if not bemusement, of everyone watching. We’re not sure if the screeching and hysterical laughter of 10 women added much to the calm, peaceful evening everyone else was hoping for. A swift return to the Eco Park for hot showers and a change of clothes, and we headed back out to The Unicorn at Porthtowan (theunicornonthebeach.com) for an evening meal. We were glad we’d booked, as the place was clearly a popular destination. And, after the most fantastic food (which satisfied even the fussiest vegan and gluten intolerant) and cocktails, we could see why it was so busy. To end the evening we had even more cake, this time an impressive celebration one for Katie’s birthday. Back at the campsite, we heard music, and so a few of us headed over to the bar to join some of the other holidaymakers, locals and staff and warm ourselves up by the fire pits. However, we were too tired to stay up too late and, as the evening was winding down, we all headed back to our huts and camper vans to get our heads down. It was another early start for us all on the Sunday morning, the last day of the trip, as we packed up and then headed back down to Porthtowan for an early dip for World Mental Health Day. The tide was up over the rocks and the wind was whistling around, making for a
A highly-recommended breakfast at the Porthtowan Beach Café (porthtowanbeachcafe.com) followed and, once we’d eaten our fill of bacon sarnies, avocado and poached eggs and full (and vegan) breakfasts, we knew it was time to start heading back home to North Devon. But not without a couple of swim stops on the way, as well as meeting up with two more of our swim tribe, Kim and Jo. We all met up at Trebarwith Strand, which has a milelong sandy beach at low tide, but it was high tide for us, so we walked down over the rocky slipway and perched on a couple of boulders to get changed. A tiny slither of sand was revealed and, after dunking in the rock pools, we headed into the surf to jump over and dive under waves. After bobbing in the sea together we decided to play in the stream which cuts through the centre of the bay in a rock gully, complete with little waterfalls and inlets. We really do take any opportunity to get into the water. Our final stop of the weekend was Crackington Haven for roast dinners and ice creams and the last swim of our big adventure. It has a fascinating history as it began life as a small port importing limestone and coal and exporting slate from local quarries. Traces of a donkey path can even still be seen going down to Stangle Beach. Crackington Haven also has a fascinating geological history, but landslides are common here, and you can see the remains of past slips in the angled ledges and platforms of the cliff slopes. However, we were most impressed with Adie’s driving as she manoeuvred her enormous motorhome down the narrow roads. Again, a couple of helpful locals told us which bits of the sea to avoid due to large rock formations jutting out into the water. Once again, we made the most of the still sunny weather and stayed in for as long as possible. Eventually, however, we made our way out of the ocean for the final time, got dressed, pulled on our woolly hats, said goodbye to each other and then climbed back into our vehicles to go home to our families. It was a jam-packed, fast-paced weekend full of walking, swimming, eating, laughing and camaraderie, and we think all of us felt enriched and fulfilled (as well as exhausted) by our shared experiences in such a beautiful part of the South West. Now, where shall we go for our next adventure? Coast Path Magazine
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Taking the cure
10 of best tidal pools around the South West Coast to keep cold-water dipping through the winter. By Ruth King
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he South West has long drawn visitors looking to experience the healing powers of sea water, from those who visited Victorian resorts to ‘take the cure’, to more modern holidaymakers who extol the health benefits wild swimming can bring. If you’re one of the thousands who feel the therapeutic effects of a regular cold-water dip – such as increased immunity and decreased stress and anxiety – you may be reluctant to stay on dry land as we get into winter. But, as the sea temperatures plummet, there’s no reason why you need to stop swimming entirely. There are so many tidal pools speckled around the South West for you to discover, all offering calm water and a relatively safe environment, so you can keep dipping right through to spring. And, as most of these pools are directly on the South West Coast Path, you can warm up with a walk before or after your swim too. >
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Westward Ho! Sea Pool This recently refurbished tidal pool sits on the stunning coastline at Westward Ho!, overlooking the beautiful Bideford Bay. It harks back to the Victorian era when holidaymakers flocked to the seaside resort to immerse themselves in the water, believing it to be a great benefit to their health, starting a trend that’s still going strong over a century later. Plan your dip for sunset to bathe amidst a rainbow of spectacular colours. Take a walk nearby: Westward Ho! to Cornborough Cliffs (1.5 miles)
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Chapel Rock Tidal Pool, Perranporth Tucked away at the far side of Perranporth Beach is this small tidal pool. In the summer, you’ll find it packed with wetsuit-clad kids basking in the shallow waters as they’re warmed by the sun’s rays. But, in winter, it’s a fantastic place for an atmospheric cold-water dip with the backdrop of the iconic Chapel Rock, crowed with St Piran’s Flag. Take a walk nearby: Perranporth to St Agnes (3.6 miles)
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Bude Sea Pool Dating back to the 1930s, Bude Sea Pool now attracts keen swimmers from all walks of life, from children looking to have fun in the water to serious triathletes training for their next endeavour. The 91-metre pool is situated above the crashing waves of Summerleaze Beach and right on the South West Coast Path, so it’s easy to fit in a dip around your walk. Take a walk nearby: Crackington Haven to Bude (9.8 miles)
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The Tidal Baths, Portreath Head to the west side of Portreath beach and you’ll find a series of small pools cut into the rock face, perfect for a little seawater soak. These pools are known as Lady Basset’s Pools and were carved out of the cliffs in the 18th century so the Lady could enjoy the health benefits of cold water; it’s said that their varying positions and levels of privacy mean that Lady Basset could take a dip throughout the whole cycle of the tide. Take a walk nearby: Portreath to Hayle (11.7 miles)
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Jubilee Pool, Penzance One of the few South West lidos that remain open through the winter months, Jubilee Pool is a gloriously grand Art Deco affair with two pools to choose from. The main pool is tidal and only open at weekends throughout the winter, with the water temperature a few degrees above sea temperature. The second is a geothermal pool, naturally warmed to around 30 degrees – cold-water swimming it isn’t, but it’s a gentler, more indulgent way to enjoy an open-air dip this winter. Take a walk nearby: Penzance to Marazion (2.7 miles)
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Children’s Pool, Cape Cornwall Taking the crown for England’s most westerly tidal pool, this swimming spot was built in the 1950s, supposedly to offer children a safe place to swim away from the notorious currents of the imposing Cape Cornwall. It’s not just for children, however; in winter, this is a very quiet spot for a cold-water dip in the quintessentially Cornish setting of Priest’s Cove. Take a walk nearby: Pendeen to Sennen Cove (9.1 miles)
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Mousehole Rock Pool If your idea of cold-water dipping is just that – a dip – then this tidal pool is perfect for you. One of the smallest pools on our list, the shallow water is great for a quick dunk as you take in the spectacular views towards the Lizard Point. The aptly named Rock Pool Café is a great place to warm up with hot chocolates afterwards. Take a walk nearby: Mousehole to Lamorna (4.7 miles)
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Devil’s Point Tidal Pool, Plymouth While the superb Tinside Lido is closed over winter, Devil’s Point offers Plymouth’s hardy souls the chance to keep dipping throughout the winter. The subject of much refurbishment, this rectangular pool was originally built around 100 years ago and has a commanding position on the edge of the city’s Stonehouse peninsula. Soak in the views across Plymouth Sound and to Mount Edgcumbe as you swim. Take a walk nearby: Plymouth Waterfront Walkway (9.3 miles)
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Chapel Pool, Polperro With turquoise water flooding a giant rock pool towered over by jagged rocks, Chapel Pool offers a wild swim in every sense of the meaning. The rocky landscape creates a mixture of shallower and deeper sections, providing a variety of options for all abilities. Make a beeline for the sun-warmed shallower sections to beat the winter chill, then visit the Blue Peter pub afterwards to properly warm up. Take a walk nearby: Looe, Talland and Polperro (5.7 miles)
Save our sand dunes!
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Healthy sand dunes are havens for wildlife, including rare lizards and toads, songbirds, butterflies and orchids. But our dunes are currently facing habitat degradation and biodiversity loss. Dynamic Dunescapes is an ambitious conservation project working across England and Wales to restore 7,000 hectares of coastal sand dune habitat. We will support biodiversity where it is under threat, and help communties love, enjoy and protect their local dunes.
Visit www.dynamicdunescapes.co.uk for more information, explore our events, and to get involved as a volunteer
Images: Rupert Hawley, Matt Pitts, Emma Brisdion
Dynamic Dunescapes is supported by the National Lottery Heritage Fund and the EU LIFE Programme. Partners are Coast Path Magazine 51 Natural England, Plantlife, Natural Resources Wales, National Trust and The Wildlife Trusts.
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Dancing Ledge, Dorset
Staying safe in the water
Created as a result of Victorian quarrying for Portland stone, this small pool has a spectacular setting at a much-loved beauty spot on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Requiring a bit of a scramble to get to, it’s not for the faint-hearted or less mobile, but your efforts will be rewarded by crystal-clear water and unspoilt views of the ancient, fossil-studded cliffs.
Tidal pools are wild, natural environments and sea water is extremely cold in winter; follow these tips to stay safe and have fun.
Take a walk nearby: Dancing Ledge and Langton Matravers (4.9 miles)
• Check your entry and exit points before entering the water
• Always swim at low tide; check the tide times before you set off • Tell someone where you’re going or, better still, take someone with you
• Acclimatise slowly; start with shorter dips and then extend your time as your body adjusts • Wear a wetsuit or neoprene boots and gloves if needed • Warm up as quickly as possible after you get out – remove wet clothes, put on lots of layers and have a warm drink
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he Nordic Robe is destined to become an essential part of your adventure kit. Whether it’s for changing out of your wetsuit after a surf, or for keeping you warm and sheltered before an early morning cold water swim, the Nordic Robe has got you covered. The Irish brand has a strong environmental ethos that is at the forefront of every decision they make. They plant a tree for every order placed and use biodegradable or paper packaging. The exterior of the robe is made from DWR coated heavy duty ripstop (which is recycled). The interior features a super soft deep pile sherpa lining which is also made 100% from recycled plastic bottles.
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The Nordic Robe also has a 100% waterproof membrane, meaning you can stay out in the harshest of weather and you’ll still be kept dry and warm. The Nordic Robes come in 5 unique colourways, Navy, Maroon, Coral, Green and Yellow. Each colour of the robes has a contrasting interior lining to complete the look. This way you can make a statement whilst embracing the elements. Bleubird’s Nordic Changing Robes can be found on their website bleubird.com and in selected UK and Irish retailers. To learn more about Bleubird’s sustainable practices, visit bleubird.com/pages/sustainability.
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Commitment to the Coast As part of Finisterre's collaboration with the RNLI, they are shining a light on the everyday heroes who volunteer for the world’s oldest lifesaving charity – putting their lives on the line to keep coastal communities safe. The driving force behind the collaboration, Finisterre Founder Tom Kay, has been a volunteer at the St Agnes Lifeboat station for nigh on 20 years. Now a helm, Finisterre sat down with Tom to talk about his two decades of commitment, and the shared values that inspired the collaboration. Words by Tom Kay, Founder of FINISTERRE
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You’ve been a lifeboat crewmember for many years now, but what was it that initially made you want to sign up as a volunteer? I’ve been in and around coastal communities most of my life, and have always been aware of the RNLI, the role they play and that volunteer ethos that goes back over 200 years. So when I moved to St Agnes and started Finisterre, nearly 20 years ago now, joining the RNLI and being a volunteer member of the lifeboat crew here was something I’d always wanted to do, and this was the first chance I’d really had to do it. It felt like something that I could and should do; being where we are in the village and playing a part in this coastal community that has a need 24/7 – so it’s something I felt I really ought to do and am massively proud to be a part of.
Are there any particular rescues or moments that stand out for you over those 20 years that you’ve served at St Agnes station? Your pager can go off at any time, day or night, 365 days a year. It’s always with you, mine’s here on my desk right now. Whenever that pager goes off, you never know what you’re going to be going out to. So there’s always an adrenaline moment when you hear the pager alarm sound. As I’m going down the road to the station I’m thinking, “ok, what’s the swell like? What’s the wind like? What’s the sea conditions like?” mentally preparing myself for what I might be called out to do. Even after 20 years, that same emotion and feeling still exists for me. I suppose when you get a shout over the winter, that’s always quite serious. Firstly, because it’s usually rougher and stormy, but also because you know that if someone’s in the water at that time of year the survival chances really diminish very quickly with the cold water. I guess one of the biggest shouts I’ve had was to a lady who had got stuck at Perranporth, trying to rescue her dogs. We luckily got there in time and she was ok, but we ended up having to rescue her dogs and the propellor hit the rocks and the engine broke, so we had to wade and swim the boat round to shore. It was really quite hairy, but everyone was saved and ended up all ok. That was in January around four in the afternoon on a pretty stormy winter's day, so it was quite an extreme shout actually.
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Image by Kristina Banholzer
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Why did you feel it was important to do this collaboration with the RNLI? Well, at Finisterre we to do collaborations with like-minded brands and charities where there’s a shared ethos. And I can’t really think of a better partner than the RNLI; with a shared love and respect for the sea that is deeply ingrained into both Finisterre and the RNLI.
You touched on it a little, but are there any specific challenges of working out of Trevaunance Cove here in St Agnes? Yeah, so the station down at Trevaunance has been a lifeboat station for over 50 years. We have a D-Class lifeboat, which is a tough 14ft rigid inflatable boat; 50 horsepower on the back, and you have 2 crew and one helm. On its day, it’s actually one of the roughest stations in the country, because it’s a surf station. It’s just us and Bude which are officially surf stations. Any station can have surf, but there’s regularly big surf at St Agnes and Bude; it's these stations that face straight out into the full force of the Atlantic. It's not unusual to have have 6-8ft (2m) waves breaking over the boat. On these big days, as helm, you're trying to find the fastest and best route out.
For me personally, being a crewmember for over 20 years and now being a helm, that connection goes back a long way. There’s great common ground between the volunteer ethos and 200 years of history and heritage that the RNLI has, and the innovation and storytelling that Finisterre brings with our romance, sustainability and fabric knowledge. You bring those together in a range like we have done and it’s super exciting and something I’m immensely proud of.
The strapline of the campaign is “with courage, nothing is impossible”. What is the meaning behind that and why was it chosen for the collaboration? “With courage, nothing is impossible” was the motto of the RNLI when it was founded by Sir William Hillary. There’s many stories that have been told and brought to life over those 200 years of history that really illustrate that; volunteers putting themselves at risk to save someone else who is in trouble in the sea. And that ethos still exists today as much as it did 200 years ago. You could even say it's a good motto for life in general! I talk about this a lot. On the one hand, for me, being a part of this coastal community and joining the RNLI was just something I did because I was here, and it was something I wanted to do. So on the one hand, it’s not a big deal - there are 238 RNLI stations and 5600 volunteers around the country. On the other hand, when you put out to sea, you’re being brave, you’re putting yourself at risk to save somebody. There’s a huge amount of training that goes into that. So, it’s this amazing thing where in one way it’s just something you do, but on the other it is really quite a huge deal.
If you could sum up what you do for the RNLI in one word, what would that be? I would say… commitment. Because it’s a commitment to go out to sea. It’s commitment from your friends and family who are left behind. Commitment to leave the kid’s bath time, or whatever it is. Commitment all round. Coast Path Magazine 57
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Power of the pack
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Rediscovering the power of the pack with the Saunton Surf Sisters. by Steph Conway
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or the past two years, collectively, we've been through it. Isolation has been difficult for most of us for the simple fact that humans are social creatures. After living abroad for a decade, I moved to North Devon last December for work, knowing no one. I was determined to find a way to continue surfing, even if it meant jumping in the ice-cold Bristol channel. But I didn't want to surf on my own. Re-learning to surf in cold water after being blessed with perfect reef breaks in the warmer climates of Indonesia and California sounded like a daunting and likely dangerous task. So, I set out to find some surf buddies. On social media, I discovered a local women's surf group that would change my North Devon social life for the better. Attending the first Saunton Surf Sisters meet up as restrictions eased in June, I felt nervous about putting myself out there. But as soon as I parked and found my way to the meet-up location, I was immediately greeted by Ella, and quickly befriended several members. We all made our way with our wetsuits and boards as one big girl group into the sea. The surf was small but fun enough for the beginners to catch some baby waves, with the occasional clean set for the more intermediate surfers to enjoy. From that day forward, my social calendar filled up with regular meet-ups and new hobbies like wakeboarding, acro yoga and rock climbing with other members who have since become close friends.
Saunton Surf Sisters was formed by Ella Louise Sullivan, a former London art director turned North-Devon based multi-faceted entrepreneur, who had found her love of surfing through working at a Portuguese surf camp and on surfing holidays in Indonesia. Finding herself in a new location, she missed a sense of community with other women. "I was constantly surfing on my own, surrounded by men and thinking, where are my girls at? Surely there must be other women thinking like me?" Ella isn't the only one noticing male-dominated lineups. According to an International Surfing Association survey, women account for only 19% of the 18 million surfing community worldwide. "I wanted to share my love of surfing with other girls," Ella explains. "To give those that might be new to surfing the chance to meet other North Devon based women and do fun stuff together." Saunton Surf Sisters are as much about female empowerment as surfing. The group organises monthly events at Saunton Beach for anyone from > 60
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"There's something therapeutic about jumping in the sea, and going surfing with a bigger group helps build your confidence in the waves." - Member and North Devon native Joanna Hamer
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experienced surfers to total newbies. Beginners can get the hang of their pop-up, while the more able surfers go out and join the line-up. It doesn't matter if it's your first time on a board or you've shredded for years; everyone can benefit from getting in the sea. Surfing in the UK isn't quite the same as in Bali and California. You won't find many surfers in bikinis here due to the colder climates, grey skies and needing a whole lot of neoprene to keep warm. But no matter where you choose to jump in the water from, all surfers know the sense of serenity that comes from paddling out into the waves of your nearest break. More than just a sport, surfing is therapeutic, a way to connect with the sea, meet new people in the line-up and gain both a physical and mental release. Issues you encounter while surfing can reflect the problems you struggle with in real life. So if you can learn to deal with them in the water, you can learn to deal with them on dry land, too. "There's something therapeutic about jumping in the sea, and going surfing with a bigger group helps build your confidence in the waves," adds member and North Devon native Joanna Hamer. "Meeting up in groups can be daunting at times because you don't know how approachable everyone will be. But everyone in the group is so lovely and from all different walks of life, so it's enjoyable to be a part of." As well as surf meet-ups, the group also organises yoga classes, skate sessions, and beach events and has an online community of almost 300 women. The best part about being part of the Saunton Surf Sisters, according to member Louise Pamment, is "being part of a group of females that just love to see each other win! It's so sick being in the water and hearing all the girls hyping each other up and having a blast." Surfing with a group of women can be empowering. You can cheer each other on as you catch (or miss) waves and help each other learn. It's always good to have surfing friends because they can give you tips and tricks to help you improve. "Just come try and make a connection with another woman," encourages Ella. "Slowly, these connections build up and then a community is made. And that's what we are put on this planet to do. To build connections and build community. These things take time, and hopefully, in the next couple of years, we will have a vibrant community of women who surf and support one another." The future is bright for the Saunton Surf Sisters. As the group grows both at meet-ups and online, 62
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so do the opportunities to expand. "We could help fundraise to get girls who haven't had the chance to surf before out for lessons and purchase foamies for them," muses Ella. "I'd love to help empower the next generation of female surfers to get out there with us!" Receiving genuine support hits the nervous system differently. From the smallest act of a heart emoji under your latest grid post to the presence of strong female friends with who you can entrust with your darkest secrets, championing other women results in more opportunities and increased success for all. Being a part of the Saunton Surf Sisters and rediscovering the pack's power in North Devon honestly reminded me of the most essential rule in surfing: to have fun.
FIND FREEDOM THROUGH SUP Pro Construction Board + Kayak Conversion Kit + 2-in-1 Convertible Paddle + Pump + Ankle Leash + Back-Pack.
T HE AL L R O UND SUP www.bluefinsupboards.com
Our Cruise boards combine aggressive performance features of touring boards with the comfort and stability of all-round leisure models. For beginners or experts, who want a board that travels light and provides rigid stability. Coast Path Magazine 63
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A SUP love story
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Follow Bluefin on Instagram @bluefinsups
Bluefin’s journey begins at the beginning of the 2010s, born from Founder, William Vaughan’s, well-spent youth on the water in the western Southern Uplands, and his love for all things aqua. by Bluefin
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tarting straight out of university around Will’s kitchen table, came an eagerness to create a range of premium kayaks that all the family could enjoy, just as much as he did, without breaking the bank, and without compromising on quality. Thus, the Bluefin Kayak brand was born. As a family-established business, the team worked passionately on growing the Bluefin Kayak brand, which quickly gained in popularity and an amazing aqua-loving community soon formed. However, logistical issues caused problems delivering the full-sized kayaks, particularly overseas. This, as well as our Bluefin community’s increasing interest for all things watersports, ignited the idea to adapt to creating high-quality
inflatable boards; ones that could easily be transported and loved by all...which is exactly how today’s Bluefin SUPs brand began. Many years have been invested, working tirelessly on research and development, constantly making improvements to the Bluefin collection, in order to continuously cater to the changing needs, interests, trends and lifestyles of our ever-growing community. Today, we stand proud to offer a wide selection of inflatable Bluefin SUP paddle boards to suit everybody; from juniors and complete amateurs looking to get into the sport for the first-time, to seasoned ocean-tourers. There’s a Bluefin for everyone: made with love, by SUP lovers. > Coast Path Magazine
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Brand Mission The Bluefin SUP brand mission is simple. It’s to always cater directly to our community. This can easily be seen in the evolution of our super popular, all-rounder paddle board, the Cruise. Starting from 2018, from our initial Cruise model, the board's design has changed and developed significantly. This has always been as a result of our Bluefin ethos to keep in touch with what our community is looking for. We spend a great deal of time looking into our paddler’s reviews, ideas, and we regularly ask them for feedback. From the super popular Cruise range, to the sturdier Cruise Carbon range, to the streamlined Sprint, to the aqua fitness focussed Aura Fit, and even to the Mammoth, which encourages you to bring your friends and family along from the ride. There truly is a Bluefin SUP board out there for everyone. We take great pride in being a humble brand, one where it’s our community who leads our brand’s ideas and development, and we look forward to seeing where this takes us next. About Our Boards Here at Bluefin SUP we are passionate about building competitively-priced, premium inflatable SUP boards that last a lifetime. By ensuring that we use only high-quality or military quality materials that make our SUPs stable, ultra tough and incredibly durable, we are confident that our paddleboards are long-lasting! This commitment also allows us to take a major step towards sustainability and reducing waste heading to landfill. As a company, we pride ourselves on taking responsibility for reducing any environmental impact on our returns process - which is completely wastefree! We ensure that any returned SUPs are repaired and are either re-sold at a discounted price, used in our Bluefin demos, or even turned into boards for our adventurous staff. No SUP is ever left behind! In fact, out of the many thousands of boards we’ve sold over the years, we even refuse to throw away the very few boards that are irreparable and have sourced a company happy to recycle them for us. This company, however, can only effectively recycle the boards by the ton. So the boards are safely stored away until we have enough of them to be recycled; helping us to maintain our zero-waste goal. 68
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Keep Up With Our SUP Brand We love seeing our incredible Bluefin SUP community enjoying their paddleboards and heading out on SUP adventures around the world! If you’re also interested in joining us on our journey, follow us on our social handles and keep up to date on our latest news, discounts and amazing SUP content! @bluefinsups bluefinsupboards.com
Planet friendly comfort
DESIGNED FOR A DV E N T U R E
@bamboo_clothing
BA M B O O C LOT H I N G . C O . U K
@BambooClothing
ADVERTORIAL
Innovating for you and the planet! When you’re heading out along the coast path this winter and enjoying being immersed in nature, have a thought about the clothes you are wearing, and the impact that they could be having on the planet.
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Boot Socks £15 from BAM
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ADVERTORIAL
B
AM has been pioneering natural alternatives to synthetics since it began in 2006. Why? Because activewear has been dominated by synthetic fabrics for decades. The raw material is crude oil, dependent on fossil fuel extraction, and the resulting fibre is not biodegradable. This means that a pair of synthetic leggings will not only add to the 73% of clothing that ends up in landfill annually (EMF Make Fashion Circular Report) but will also survive for hundreds of years.
Enduro Leggings from £44
Synthetic microfibres are already polluting the earth’s waters and it It is estimated that without drastic change there will be more plastic in the sea than fish by 2050 (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). These are devastating statistics for the planet and clearly not sustainable.
Welcome to the bamboo revolution BAM’s innovation means that more than 92% of the raw materials used in its activewear are natural, renewable, grown without pesticides and biodegradable. The company has also traced right back through the supply chain to ensure all its suppliers share this same commitment towards the environment. Just for good measure: every single item in BAM’s collection is Climate Positive: from forest to fabric to 50 washes. This means BAM has offset the full 100% of the emissions associated with running the business, from the moment the bamboo is cut down, the manufacturing process and right through to offsetting for 50 customer washes for every item of clothing sold. And – BAM has also planted over 9,000 mangrove trees. It’s all part of the company’s goal to become impact positive by 2030. But all this work would be pointless if the kit didn’t perform. Not a concern with BAM. Bamboo is naturally soft, breathable, temperature controlling and moisture managing, and worn by elite athletes and explorers alike. So, with the fabric sorted, the next consideration is the design. BAM can make sure you are comfortably covered from head to toe, whatever the weather. >
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ADVERTORIAL
Your essential BAM kit list Base Layers
Follow BAM Bamboo C lothing on Instagra m @bamboo_ clothing
The base layer is the first line of defence against the elements, keeping core muscles warm. Worn next to the skin and hugging the body, comfort is paramount. What starts as a niggle at the start of the walk can be a real aggravation by the end. BAM base layer basics include flat lock seams to avoid chafing; integrated thumb loops to stop sleeves twisting and for additional warmth; zip fabric guards to prevent rubbing; raglan sleeves for a more active fit. For versatility, neck options include crew, high and a new mid-neck. There are zip-neck designs as well to help you regulate your body temperature. from £39
Leggings BAM has a best-selling range of leggings in the buttery soft Enduro bamboo jersey fabric. Super supportive but with four-way stretch, these leggings will give you complete freedom of movement. And they stay opaque, even as you climb the cliffs. Key design elements include a deep waistband that won’t roll down or need hitching up and well-placed flatlock seams to avoid rubbing. There are different length options, and an exciting range of seasonal colours and prints. from £44
Accessories There is an ever-growing range of accessories for winter walking, from a bamboo and merino blend cosy scarf to a bamboo jersey beanie and snug neck tube. Supersoft, stylish and breathable, you’ll be kept warm without overheating.
Thirlmere Merino Bamboo Bobble Scarf in Persian Red £39
For the full collection visit bambooclothing.co.uk
Thirlmere Merino Bamboo Bobble Hat in Persian Red £29 72
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ADVERTORIAL
Rowtor and Longaford Waterproof Jackets This is BAM’s 100% waterproof jacket available in both a men and women’s design. The jacket has the PFC-free Teflon EcoElite™ waterproof finish, with a lightweight breathable membrane, a hood and storm flaps. It packs away into a side pocket, so really useful for keeping in your rucksack. £129 shown in Rust Dawn
73 Zero Insulated Jacket Every element of this trailblazing, low impact insulated jacket can be fully recycled by expert textile recycler, Project Plan B, and their pioneering fibre-to-fibre system. The result? A jacket that need never be thrown away. Every detail is designed for performance, from the PFCfree TeflonEcoElite™ waterproof finish to the crueltyfree Thermore Ecodown™ quick-dry, recycled polyester insulation. The result is a lightweight, showerproof, quick drying and wind proof insulated jacket. Shown in Honey £165 100% recyclable - it need never end up in landfill.
Purple Sock Day BAM has created super soft purple bamboo socks for Purple Sock Day, 3rd December 2021, to support D/ deaf and disabled entrepreneurs across the UK.
50% of profits from sock sales will be used to create a Parallel Fund which will provide grants to disabilityowned start-up businesses and entrepreneurs.
Purple Sock Day has been created by Parallel, a social enterprise with a simple aim: to support disabled people to be free to live life to the full in mainstream society. A staggering 20% of the UK population is disabled, with issues ranging from mobility and dexterity through to hearing and vision (source: Gov.UK).
The remaining 50% will be re-invested into growing Purple Sock Day into an annual event and other Parallel social enterprise projects which deliver an attitude of ‘no limits’ living. Making the planet accessible for all.
BAM is hoping to bring the day to life by providing the purple socks (£5). David Gordon, founder of BAM, explains: “From the outset we’ve created clothing that inspire people to be the best versions of themselves, whatever their age or ability. It’s at the heart of BAM.”
£5 per pair
But Purple Sock Day is not just about showing support and raising awareness, it is also a simple and effective fundraiser.
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Handplane heaven Words by Adam Rees and Mark Wiggins, co-founders of Compass Handplanes
Compass Handplanes are South West based premium shapers of quality wooden handplanes for bodysurfing, dedicated to bringing handplaning to the masses.
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orn from a mistimed kickflip, we at Compass Handplanes began our journey with nothing more than half a broken skate deck. Having stumbled across a few YouTube videos on the sport, we figured a ‘handplane’ would make a welcome addition to our quivers. Initially, handplaning started as an alternative to surfing, but soon enough this phenomenon quickly became our new reason to hit the water. ‘I just got barrelled more times in that session than I ever have while surfing!’ Mark, one half of Compass, excitedly barked, removing his fins as he hauled himself onto the beach. ‘What is handplaning?’ you might legitimately be asking yourself. A surfing subculture who’s roots lie deep in Hawaiian and Polynesian surfing history, this popular version of bodysurfing has been recently popularised as part of Keith Malloy’s awe-inspiring documentary ‘Come Hell or High Water’. A handplane is in its essence a mini-surfboard that allows you to catch a wave with your hand. This stripped back method of surfing is intimate at its core, embracing simplicity to connect you with the ocean in a way you might not have ever experienced. More than anything else though it’s an immensely fun, easy and healthy way to enjoy the water and enjoy the outdoors. Free from being tethered to a surfboard or bodyboard, and without the stress of having to pick the perfect wave, you can just play. The accessibility of the sport means picking up handplaning couldn’t be quicker or simpler.
"With little effort, I was able to cruise down the line of the wave and enjoy the unique feeling of bodysurfing with my Compass Handplane" - Ash, Cornwall
Despite playing host to perfect bodysurfing conditions, the sport has been slow in making its way to UK shores. As seasoned southwest surfers we understand that not all spots have that perfect right hander that works all year round and that wave conditions are as variable as they are consistent. The most satisfying thing about handplaning is that even on those blown-out and choppy, or flat and lifeless days, you can still find yourself riding a wave when others around you aren't. And that’s why at Compass we are on a mission to bring handplaning > 76
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to the masses. It took us just one swift session to realise handplaning was special. However our basic plywood skate decks were clearly holding us back. We headed into our small workshop, tucked away in the southwest of the UK, and set about creating a handplane that is cleaner, lighter and that looks elegant. The months that followed consisted of design and redesign, testing and retesting and now our boards are being enjoyed on surfing shores around the UK, on the America’s East and West coasts, Canada, the Falkland Islands and spanning all the way across to the fierce waters of Western Australia and New Zealand. We offer four different shapes of handplane, all of which embrace subtleties in the way they look, ride and feel on your hand. The Stub is our shortest board, designed for a range of conditions and especially suited to steep, powerful waves. The Fish and Crescent boards are our mid-sized range, great all rounders, with smooth cutaway tails contributing to their namesake. These shapes provide a larger surface area without adding excess length, allowing for increased grip and control. The Pin is our longest board and is great for all conditions, big and small. This shape’s long tail with smooth lines and deep concave, allows you to make the next section as well as hold your line when searching to hit the barrel. >
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"Stunning handplane. Impressive handcrafted style, high quality design and elegant finish. I cannot recommend Compass Handplanes enough" - Craig, O’Neill UK
Every handplane that comes out of our workshop has to hold up to our meticulous standards, so each board not only rides sweetly but also looks and feels stunning, both in and out the water. We only use the finest species of beautiful solid hardwood for our boards, sourced from a local timber supplier, including Elm, Sapele and Walnut. We believe these high quality raw materials provide a superior ride to plywood and laminate alternatives and stand up to the demanding conditions when being thrown around in big surf. We also appreciate the need for a smooth, concave planning sur-face on the underside of our handplanes to maximise performance, so have designed installed be-spoke handles that to avoid compromising this surface. Our fully adjustable hand straps are hand stitched in-house to provide a comfortable and adjustable fit in every riders hand. We spend hours producing a silky smooth finish, and to finish we apply numerous coats of natural Tung tree nut oil. This provides a fully durable waterproof finish, whilst retaining the elegant and natural feel of the wood. Every aspect of a Compass Handplane is designed and constructed with care and attention and, like a surfboard, our handplanes are made to last a lifetime and withstand the most testing of conditions, time and time again. It takes us days to craft each of our handplanes and we hope they get to spend many more in the water. At Compass we are all about getting people out in the water and developing a connection with the ocean, each person enjoying surfing in their own an individual way. We are really proud of the handplanes we produce and we are eager to share them with as many people as possible. So check us out, join the Compass family, and discover the great sport of handplaning for yourself. Check out our website and get in contact if you have an idea for a bespoke design. We ship world-wide. compasshandplanes.co.uk 78
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Follow Compass Handplanes on Instagram @CompassHandplanes
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Lessons from Lulworth When Brits Abroad Can’t Go Abroad… lessons learnt from our staycation Summers on the Jurassic Coast.
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Words by Derek Billings, Countryside Ranger for the Lulworth Estate
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t may come as no surprise that the path between Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door is one of the most, if not the most heavily walked mile along the whole 630 of the SWCP. Two stunning locations, ample parking and facilities, and easy day-tripping access make for a convenient recipe when trying to escape a built-up urban environment. Approach the viewpoint, and you will undoubtedly find a large portion of the visitors at any given time not actually looking at the arch but facing away! Mobile phone in hand, elevated slightly, click! But is all the social media hype helping the site? A Tiktok sensation, over-Instagrammed and Snapchatted to infinity, the iconic arch seemed to be everywhere in 2020, often and sadly for the wrong reasons. Even outside of social media circles, images of beachgoers being squeezed together by multiple medical emergency helicopters made for dramatic national news, as unlocked-down tourists irresponsibly hurled themselves off the arch. Mass littering, antisocial behaviour, fly-camping, desecration of the UNESCO protected World Heritage cliffs, you name it – it was all fair game apparently. This behaviour, this blatant selfish attitude, made work for the staff of Lulworth challenging at times and soul-destroying at others. As someone who does a lot of litter picking at the various stretches of beach along privately owned Lulworth Estate, there is always a considerable number of people who would comment in shock; "Why on earth would people do that?" when referencing the full sack of litter by my side. And the honest answer is that I genuinely don't know. I've stopped asking myself the question for my own sanity and have had to accept that this is common culture now. Disregard, throw away, consume for convenience, devalue possessions. The majority of this litter consists of everyday detritus; cans, bottles, forgotten toys, cigarette butts etc. But it was not uncommon to find an unwanted tent with its contents still inside, a toddler's perfectly good pushchair, or cool boxes full of (still sealed) food and drink, with the past owners too lazy to take it back up the 143 steps and 500m walk back to the carpark. However, a negative attitude does not go very far when working in this sector when thinking about these issues. In fact, it should be mentioned that although we suffered heavily in 2020, the majority of our visitors were well behaved, acted in a responsible manner and at times, willingly helped us out with lugging bags and bags of litter from the beach. It was the inappropriate (and dare I say it; unprecedented) >
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actions of the minority that had a significant impact on the environment and the other beachgoers experience. Thus, as a concerted effort for curtailing this behaviour and attitude, we knew a robust plan of action would be needed to ensure the unique flora and fauna of the site would continue to be protected. There would, of course, be no silver bullet to tackle the multiple layers of issues faced, but the strategy was two-fold; one of education and one of reaction. Through consultation with Litter Free Coast and Sea (now Litter Free Dorset), we heavily emphasize positive behaviour modelling and reinforcement. A recurring comment on addressing this behaviour from the general public was "fine them", or "ban them", but this strategy rarely works in reality and logistically wouldn't get off the ground. Influencing behaviour is far more likely if you can get people to buy into what you're trying to achieve. So, 'acceptable behaviour' boards were installed beside every car park machine, wardens handed out free bin bags, various positive reinforcement signs were installed around the Estate, and a targeted social media campaign sought to teach visitors of the site's limitations. Beach cleaners were employed from 5am (never a popular shift) and swapped with beach wardens who were in until 8 or 9pm. We applied for and received funding for a socio-economic grant from Magnox Ltd (a local nuclear decommissioning company) to help fund a 'welcome ambassador' role. These seasonal rangers were invaluable in teaching visitors about the environment, and in a more policing role, stopped things like disposable barbeques from getting down to the beach. They were based at an information kiosk, affectionately known as 'The Cube' and were vital in not only their primary information and education roles but assisting when major incidents unfolded on the beach. So what was the upshot of all of this investment, recruiting, training and strategic planning? Thankfully it has seemed to have paid off. Of course, other factors come into play, such as overnight accommodation available for visitors so they didn't need to smash and grab their beach time. The heatwaves of 2020 were not as abundant in 2021, and many more things were open this summer, distributing visitors' activities away from purely natural attractions. There were only three mornings when we required extra staff to combat litter issues compared to 2020, when it numbered well into double figures. > 82
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We collected 4170kg of discarded waste, comprising 965 bags. And although this may still sound like a lot, I vividly remember one hot Saturday in August 2020 when over 200 bags were collected in a single day, utilising the goodwill of an army of volunteers to assist! The graffiti that continuously appeared on the rocks last year was seen by the beach wardens much sooner and thus scrubbed off, eliminating copycat behaviour. Fly camping and illegal camping decreased significantly as the presence on the beach thwarted most potential contenders.
Note: Under the Marine and Coastal Access Act 2009, the public has a legal right to access the beaches and coastal margin. As a public right of way, the Access Authority have the responsibility to manage these areas, but in their absence, the Lulworth Estate endeavours to limit the environmental damage caused by a minority of those making use of this right.
Our overarching campaign message was to respect England's only natural World Heritage Site, protect the delicate environment, and collect all belongings and litter as you leave the beach. By no means were the problems completely resolved. By no means do we think that we can let our guard down now. But every contributing tactic that we employed, if only reducing the issues by a small percentage individually, made for a much easier working environment. The delicate natural habitats were subsequently less affected, and we are now confident that with even more effort in 2022, we will be well on top of keeping this extraordinary place, well… special. lulworth.com #RespectProtectCollect
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ADVERTORIAL
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uch loved for its golden beaches, luxury water-front hotels friendly pubs and chic restaurants, Salcombe is a favourite spot for many visitors and coast path users, staying in South Devon.
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Its yachting culture, water sports, quaint independent boutique shops, and its achingly beautiful, wood-lined tidal estuary are a magnet for families, couples and day visitors alike. Surrounded by picturesque villages, historic ruins and magnificent coastal scenery, visitors to the area can enjoy the delights of nearby Hope Cove traversing the South West Coast path, as well as the beauty of Burgh Island. In addition to Salcombe’s five beaches – South Sands, North Sands, East Portlemouth, Mill Bay and Sunny Cove – guests can discover the delights of nearby Soar Mill Cove, Harbour Beach, Mouthwell Beach, Thurlestone Sands, Bantham, Bigbury-on-Sea, Mothecombe and Blackpool Sands. Visitors can also enjoy iconic waterborne trips on the South Sands ferry, the East Portlemouth ferry, and the Kingsbridge to Salcombe ferry, opening up the local area, its many glorious walks and hidden corners. Highlights of the year include the annual Salcombe Crabfest in May (01 May 2022), and the August Salcombe Town Regatta (30 July-06 August 2022), providing seven days of fun on land and sea, as well as a magnificent fireworks display.
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Celebrated for its range of water sports, the sheltered setting of Salcombe’s estuary makes the perfect place for paddle boarding, rapid rib rides, dinghy sailing, estuary cruises, yachting and much more besides. You can also enjoy surfing, bodyboarding and sea kayaking nearby, making Salcombe and its surrounds a water sports lover’s paradise. Throw in day trips to Salcombe Maritime Museum, the National Trust owned Overbeck’s house and its stunning sub-tropical gardens, and a gin crafting and tasting experience at Salcombe Distilling company on the quay, and you have all you need to keep you entertained during a trip to the area, however long your stay.
family Christmas nativity events for all the family, - a visit to the Salcombe area will never leave you wanting.
Salcombe and its surrounding villages have a host of new and enticing experiences for visitors to enjoy in 2022. From indulgent artisan chocolate and ice cream experiences to day trips out at local attractions - including Pennywell Farm, renowned for its world-famous miniature piglets and enchanting
Complemented by a selection of amazing outdoor adventures including e-bike escapades, guests coming to Salcombe and the South Hams can look forward to treating themselves in mind, body and spirit. For news of these and a host of other new experiences go to salcombeinformation.co.uk Coast Path Magazine
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Winter walker wonder Hidden amongst the wilds of the Lizard Peninsula, Housel Bay is the perfect place for those searching for a remote winter escape. Words by Coast Path Mag
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erched on nature’s edge, above a secluded cove at the most southerly point of the UK, Housel Bay is a hotel inspired by nature. They invite you to come and wash off the city, breathe in the fresh sea air, and explore this unique location. Lizard Point is a largely undiscovered part of the UK, a hidden area of Cornwall where few have ventured. It is recognised as an area of outstanding natural beauty, which evolves magnificently from season to season, with places that seemingly time forgot. Secluded beaches, fresh sea air, vast green landscape, and dramatic cliff tops. There really is nowhere else quite like it. Housel Bay is a walker’s paradise. Step directly out of their garden gate and begin your journey along the South West Coast Path. Walk for miles exploring the beauty of the Lizard Peninsula, a truly diverse and ever changing landscape. Located on the west side of the Lizard, just one hours coastal walk away, you can explore the picturesque Kynance Cove. The white soft sand and turquoise water, contrasted against the emerald green and dark red serpentine rock is a spectacular sight. At low tide you can venture down to the beach, admire the towering rocks and explore the remarkable caves. Venturing along the coastal path from Housel Bay in either direction admiring the rugged coastline, you can spot Atlantic grey seals, wild ponies, and if you are lucky even the famous Cornish Chough along the way. The Lizard Peninsula is home to many beautiful and rare seabirds, and nature lover’s will delight in the rare flora and fauna. The Lizard’s warmer microclimate generates a plethora of subtropical vegetation, including fifty five rare species such as wild chives and twin headed clovers. It truly is a dream for lovers of nature in all its guises. If you walk eastwards from the Housel Bay gardens, along the South West Coast Path, you can discover Cadgwith Cove. Cadgwith is not only where Housel Bay sources the majority of the seafood for their restaurants, but it is one of those Cornish fishing villages that time seems to have passed by. You can take a swim at the beach, the clear water is perfect for rock pooling and snorkelling. You will also find fishing boats winched up to the beach in front of the boat houses. There are some wonderful local cosy pubs here, making the undulating hours walk from Housel Bay even more worthwhile. ›
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The quieter, winter months are a particularly special time to visit Housel Bay. Tackle epic coastal walks during the day, by night wander to a hidden cove to stargaze, and be mesmerised by the clear unspoilt views to the south. As Housel Bay is anchored above the most southerly tip of the British mainland, they meet the full force of the Atlantic storms. Get cosy inside, and be immersed by the sights and sounds as the waves crash heavily against the cliffs. It really is one of the best places to storm watch. One of the luxuries of visiting in winter is that you escape the summer crowds, allowing you to take full advantage of the beautiful deserted beaches. Soak up the waves all to yourself, and enjoy moments of pure peace and tranquility. Or take a dip in the alluring Cornish blue, and feel re-energised after a cold water swim. Our favourite secret spot is Housel Bay beach. It can be reached via a footpath directly from their garden, in under five minutes. This tidal beach is often only used by hotel guests and a handful of local people from the Lizard Village. Take the opportunity to switch off this winter and wake up to the sounds of the ocean. Each bedroom at Housel Bay has a unique view of the Lizard. Gaze out of your window to take in the endless blue of the Atlantic ocean, or the rugged wilderness of the Lizard Peninsula. Enjoy use of their brand new ‘Studio’ space during your stay, the perfect space for a moment of calm, to stretch and meditate. Yoga mats are provided by the hotel, as well as ambient lighting, music and calming scents. The hotel also offers weekly yoga classes, which are aimed to help guests feel energised but relaxed; and to set you up to gain nourishment from the beautiful landscape that surrounds us on the Lizard Peninsula.
base in Newfoundland, Canada, a distance of 2100 miles. This historic character can still be felt within the walls. The Victorian architecture was designed by famous Cornishman, Silvanus Trevail, and many of the original features remain unchanged. ‘Marconi’s Bar’ and the ‘Snug’ both have fireplaces, comfy sofas, and uninterrupted sea views. During your stay at Housel Bay you can enjoy the best local Cornish produce with menus inspired by the season and nature’s larder at their two restaurants. The Terrace has uninterrupted views of sea, a relaxed atmosphere and serves delicious plates. Whether it is breakfast to start your day right, an afternoon Cornish tea or to enjoy a lunch or dinner menu inspired by the land and sea to refuel you after a day exploring the coast. For foodies, you can experience a culinary tour of Cornwall with a five course tasting menu, with optional paired wines, at their signature restaurant Fallowfields. Each course is named after the origin of the hero ingredient, described by the AA as “much to admire.” Fallowfields was recently nominated as ‘best restaurant’ by the prestigious Trenchermans’ Guide. The Lizard Peninsula truly is a Mecca for stunning local produce, which the chefs at Housel Bay cannot wait to share with you.
Housel Bay offers a special winter retreat, from its friendly, welcoming team, cosy communal spaces with open fires, to their unrivalled views of the unspoilt coastline. Take a pause from the everyday business of life, and immerse yourself in their unique location. Reconnect with nature, ramble along the coast path, and come away feeling revitalised from this wonderful winter retreat. Another option to while away your afternoons is to make yourself comfortable in their ‘Snug.’ Curl up with a book by a crackling fire, and enjoy local wines or seasonal cocktails from ‘Marconi’s Bar.’ Their bar is named after the famous Guglielmo Marconi, who in the summer of 1900 stayed at Housel Bay hotel. During his stay, Marconi sent and received the first wireless message across the Atlantic Ocean, to a military 92
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From now until April, Housel Bay are offering some special direct offers, so we can make the most of this magical season. From free night stays, so you have more time to make the most of all the winter activities at the Lizard, to bubbles on arrival and credit available at their restaurants to make a weekend stay all the more special. Visit their website, houselbay.com and sign up to their newsletters to find out more.
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Feature in Coast Path Magazine We want to hear real stories from the Coast Path. Please email feature ideas to hello@coastwalking.co.uk.
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With the elements
Follow Stephie on Instagram @tenmilehike
The horizon. Blue-grey, changing under shafts of light from a moody sky above, sheets of rain coming in, a place where the sun rises in a watery pink or sinks in a blaze of golden glory. Clifftops alive with colour under an intense sun, or battered by storms, winds raging, hailstones driving hard to the ground... Words by Stephanie Boon
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lemental. This is the South West Coast Path that I love. It’s where I go to feel alive, ease my mind, and feel the expansiveness I only ever find there. It’s a feeling that goes deep into my bones. I’ve solo hiked all 630 miles, but Falmouth is where I fell in love with it when I was a student at Falmouth School of Art. The section of path between Falmouth and Helford Passage was, simply, home. The 1978 shipwreck The Ben Asdale was a vast, seemingly indestructible trawler lying broken against the rocks at Maenporth, but it’s virtually disappeared before my eyes over the last 40 years. WW2 relics line the coast, with perhaps the most poignant on the beach at Polgwidden at the bottom of Trebah Garden: a concrete jetty where the US army embarked for the Normandy Landings. Nearby is the tiny fishing village of Durgan, a cluster of stone cottages at the bottom of another famous garden: the National Trust’s Glendurgan. Carry on round to Helford Passage and there you reach the ferry to the other side of the Helford River, which seemed like the entry to another world.
But it wasn’t really the history of people that drew me along this section of the coast; it was, and still is, the natural world, the liminal stretch of path between the familiar and the unknown. The constant back and forth of the tide, the changing light, the twisted ancient oak woodland near Mawnan, the carpets of bluebells in spring, the spires of foxgloves, paths down to low-tide beaches...it’s always and never the same. Cornwall boasts almost half the South West Coast Path, but it’s mostly the north coast on the Atlantic Ocean that has that elemental feel I crave. And my go-to cliffs to experience it near home are between Perranporth and Chapel Porth near St Agnes. It’s an easy 7 miles, compared to a little further along between Porthtowan and Portreath with its steep climbs. Still, it’s easy to reach by bus at either end (so long as you’re prepared to walk a little further up the cliffs at Chapel Porth, and maybe over St Agnes Beacon with its spectacular views over the north coast from Padstow to St Ives, and into St Agnes village itself). This section might be relatively level (excepting Trevellas), but it doesn’t come without risk. > Coast Path Magazine
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There are places along the way here that are about as close to a cliff edge as you can get and not somewhere you want to be in winter storms. I’ve literally been pinned to the ground by gale-force winds and hail storms like I’ve never experienced anywhere else. But for me, it’s this wildness that brings me here again and again. It makes me feel small and insignificant in the context of geological time. Still, it’s reassuring that what I’m looking at, experiencing, will continue with voracity whatever else we do to this planet of ours. The geology along this section of the coast is extraordinary. The vast outcrop of layered rock at Cligga Head hints at mining tunnels below and is where you can see adits in the red iron-stained cliffs. But it’s the magnificent rocks of Hanover Cove that stop me in my tracks every time. They jut out into the sea in white, knifed-edged sheets inaccessible from the cliffs, the preserve of sea birds. Further along, there’s a place I sit to watch over Green Island, magical in a sparkling turquoise sea in summer. And when I look down at the gulls gliding below, I feel like a bird on the wing myself. This whole stretch builds to a finale at Chapel Porth, where there’s nothing more grounding than watching huge waves roll into the narrow cove in winter or walking along the surf at low tide as the sun sinks behind the cliffs. Ultimately, the coast path, for me, is about spending time alone, whether it’s local walks or hiking long sections. Wild and remote places like sections of the north Devon and Cornwall coasts or parts of the Jurassic Coast in Dorset fill me with wonder and peace. And the physical and mental challenges I deal with on my own help me build resilience and bolster what’s sometimes very fragile self-esteem (due to recurrent depression). I believe anyone can reap the benefits of hiking and walking on the coast path, though, so I trained as a Lowland Leader with the Mountain Training organisation to encourage that. It means I’m qualified to safely take groups out or guide hikers along the trail (and elsewhere in lowland Britain) to introduce them to places they might not otherwise explore. I do it ad hoc to raise funds for the South West Coast Path Association and give back a little to the charity that makes walking the path possible. Next year though, my plan is to do it more regularly.
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Until then, you might bump into me stomping along the cliffs of the north Cornish coast or back in Falmouth where it all began. I hope to see you out there. ... Stephanie is a solo hiker, writer and artist based in Cornwall who’s suffered depression since her teenage years. She’s currently hiking the UK’s national trails (the first one she completed was the South West Coast Path, of course!) and making art about her experiences along the way. She blogs about hiking in the UK on her website 10milehike.com, where she’s also building a library of stories and tips from solo women hikers around the UK (called Women Afoot), many of whom have hiked the South West Coast Path.
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One more mountain left to climb Eleven years ago dad died, at just 66 years old, and three years ago I started walking, and crawling, at times, the South West Coast path. Words by Nell Barrington
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'm raising money for Ward Nine at Musgrove Park Hospital and to find a cure for cancer, a slightly big dream, by supporting the excellent work Blood Cancer UK are doing. Dad (Kit Barrington) was well known for his sporting prowess; he played rugby, squash, golf and cricket, where he scored over 12,000 runs for Bridgwater Cricket Club. He was a fighter and loved a challenge. Despite having a really rare form of leukaemia, he carried on playing and working and succeeded in fighting this insidious disease for more than ten years; with the help and support of the fantastic, compassionate staff at Ward Nine he was their "miracle". So in memory of dad, a challenge was needed, and the South West Coast path at 630 miles, and the equivalent of climbing Everest four times, seemed a good choice - mainly if you are like me, scared of heights! Over 513 miles and 58,746 feet covered so far, the fear is still there. But if you want to see truly magnificent scenery, hidden sandy coves - with the bluest sea - as well as all manner of creatures (I saw my first ever adder, black squirrel and a hare all in one day!), then the South West Coast path should definitely be on your bucket list. It has only been possible to get as far as we have so far with the dedicated support of family and friends who have been walking with us, along with my trusty hound, Luna. We have many miles and many feet left to clamber and hope to raise another £1000. We must have gone wrong in some places as we will have done more than 680 miles by the end! If you can join me in supporting the great work by Blood Cancer UK and Ward Nine at Musgrove, in Dad's memory, you can here uk.virginmoneygiving. com/SomeoneSpecial/KitBarrington Thank you. We will be sharing our adventures and all our favourite places to sleep and eat here firsttimeto.co.uk
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Mads with a bag Words by Madeleine Issitt
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Follow Stephie on Instagram @madswithabag
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n the depths of our summer heatwave I stumbled into Minehead Wetherspoons, just 10 minutes after getting off the beach-front bus stop. I had arrived at the starting line and had the entire length of the South West Coast Path ahead of me. I heaved my backpack onto my seat (“Audrey” as I came to know and love her by), puffing to the degree that the bloke on the table next to me put down his paper and said, “Gosh, where have you walked from?”. I swallowed my mortification as I told him that I had only just strolled from the beach and was, in fact, starting tomorrow. Mid lockdown 3.0, I decided that I would thru-hike the 630 miles of the South West Coast Path on my own in 44 days, camping and carrying all my gear. I had never done anything of this magnitude before and spent months begging and borrowing my way to a full bag of equipment that I had no idea how to use. I attempted to explain to those around me how and why I was going. The most profound summary of all came from the 5-year-old I was looking after at the time. Whilst I felt my garbled explanation was going straight over her head, she simply told me: “It’s a thinking walk, isn’t it?”. I later worked out this was a line from Elmer, but it was perfect nonetheless. With each staggering hill on the path and Audrey weighing me down, my fitness improved rapidly. By day 5, I noticed my leg muscles appearing; after 2 weeks, I was walking 25 mile days, and by the time I strode down Studland beach towards that finish marker, I swore I could have walked it all, all over again. My most unexpected hike challenge came 18 days in, when at 7am on a clifftop near Land’s End, I took a lateral flow test and tested positive for coronavirus. Heartbroken and sick, I set about working out what on earth I was going to do. I staggered to the next village, and with my 2% battery, I called the only person I could think of; Mum. Driving back to London was long and miserable as my head whirred with what had happened, the nature in which I was leaving… and how quickly I could get back. One week of isolating in the four walls of my room couldn’t have felt further from the rough winds of independence I’d been riding along the coast. Seven days later, with re-waterproofed boots, adjustments to my gear and the addition of a homemade bum pad (I’ll never go anywhere without that, again), I found my way back to that dreaded lighthouse where I had sat on a boulder and wept down the phone that it was all over… and I carried on. >
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While the rugged north coast brought battering winds and boulder-stacked paths, the south threw at me the organisational mind field of endless river crossings. This was how I found myself crossing the River Erme in the small dingy of a man called Gary, who had labelled every item in his boat with his name in block capitals like Andy in Toy Story. A few hours later, I had no choice but to get my bikini on and swim after my backpack across the next one, which I had persuaded a paddleboarder to take across. It was also the profound generosity of strangers that led to the best meal I had on the entire hike. Knackered and rejected at a village’s only pub, a family sitting in their doorway asked me how long I’d been walking for. Before long, they were thrusting into my hands a jar of pesto, pasta, bacon and a salami platter, only apologising they didn’t have more. I felt tearful with gratitude. Inhaling that meal in a ruin with a broken spork and wet hair a couple of hours later, I had never felt so rich. Each campsite brought a whole new host of characters, whether wild horses, a herd of cows or a bizarre man who’d built a homemade brewery in an old milking shed and persuaded me to taste the cider. Another evening, at a pub in Dorset, an entire family began asking me where myself and my gigantic backpack were heading. They bought drinks and dinner all round, and when I mentioned the charity I was raising money for, each cousin, auntie, niece and nephew of the group held £20 aloft. Notes thrust into my hands, their children ran up to me, asking me questions about where I slept, what I ate and if I had to walk all the way home too. The coast path was the most all-consuming experience of nature I have had. Each night spent under the stars by the sea, away from the pots and pans orchestra of a family campsite, seemed like a gift. Each night without rain, each crystal clear swim after a brutal day’s hike, each flat patch of grass nestled behind a dune, a gift. Picking up the path after recovering from Covid, I worried if it could match the 18 days of adventure I’d already had. And yet, to meet another solo walker on my first evening back and share three feral weeks together...again, a gift. Whilst Poole was always the goal on paper, it was the victories in each day that made me proudest. I found that nothing compares to the feeling of finding the perfect, wild camping spot or getting your tent up in time to watch the sunset. The glorious relief of zipping yourself into the cocoon of your smelly sleeping bag and telling yourself that now, now, you can rest. 104
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I am proud to have completed the challenge – not on my own after all, but with the hands of so many; this is a letter to them. To the women who dropped everything to join me (and do it all again when I got Covid). To the souls who welcomed me into their homes, fed me and cared for me when I was at most a loose link of a remote name. To the strangers on the path who cheered me on and inspired me to walk even further next time. To the women we raised almost £2000 to support through Solace Women’s Aid, those who aren’t as lucky to have the freedom the rest of us do. And to one little woman who might one day take on a ‘thinking walk’ of her own. May the path be long, the skies clear, and the water blue for them, too.
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Walkers & Hikers Transfers to start and finish points on the South West Coast Path • Covid-safe
07890 543136
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To advertise in our autumn edition, please contact us at ads@coastwalking.co.uk
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We are a friendly, family run cafe set on the beautiful Rame Peninsula. Come and try an all day breakfast, sandwich or coffee and cake, whilst enjoying the breathtaking views.
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Wildlife Watching Trips
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If you are interested in advertising or contributing to an upcoming issue, please email hello@coastpathmag.co.uk or visit our website at coastpathmag.co.uk
Availability can be found at www.porthminsterviewstives.com Follow us on Instagram: @porthminsterview1
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Connect your business to the Coast Path Do you offer a great place to stay, eat and drink or take part in activities along the Path? Join us as a Way Maker and we’ll help direct the trail’s 9 million annual visitors to you, whilst you help us to look after this amazing natural asset. Find out more
Photo by Abi Pitt Trevose Head, North Cornwall
CONNECT. PROTECT. PROMOTE. southwestcoastpath.org.uk/waymaker Coast Path Magazine 113
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