Plenty of ways to eat the plentiful freshwater drum

When walleye anglers catch Freshwater drum on Lake Erie or in its tributaries, most toss this normally non-target species back. Yet, when I bring (Sheepshead) to wild fish and game dinners, people like them well enough to ask for my recipes. Nationwide, they are known by many names including bubbler, cambellite, croaker, croaker perch, drumfish, gaspergou, goo, gou, gray bass, grinder, grunter, grunting perch, thunder bass and thunderpumper. Anglers may land dozens of them during June as they concentrate on spawning reefs and in tributary streams. Some grow very large. Ohio’s record stands at 23 ½ pounds, taken in the Sandusky River. Drum are most often caught with night crawlers and minnows, but insect larvae, crayfish and mollusks make up the bulk of their diet. They grind up clam and snail shells with molar-like (pharyngeal) teeth back in their throats. Although they are not sharp enough to cut a fingertip, when reaching deep into the throat to remove a hook, expect a firm squeeze. While unhooking the drum, you may also hear a grunting sound produced by a structure inside the fish echoing off the swim bladder. Only males produce this sound, which is thought to attract females during spawning season. They will readily take jigs fished near bottom structure and are frequently caught on trolled spoons and crank baits- proof that they are not strictly bottom feeders. As with all fish, drum should be iced as quickly as possible to prevent spoilage. Because of their firm white flesh, drum work well in fish chili, soups, stews, chowders, and casseroles or served in Cajun-style etouffee and jambalaya. The fillets are best when skinned and then trimmed of all visible fat, silverskin and the red muscle layer. The “loins” from the tops of trimmed fillets are the premier cut. Due to high fat content, they are better when eaten fresh rather than after freezing and thawing, which can intensify rancid oil flavors. After being baked, pan fried in butter and herbs, or battered and deepfried, they are ideal for fish tacos. Some of the best ways to enjoy freshwater drum are to boil 2-inch-long strips in Old Bay seasoning for 3-4 minutes, then serve them either warm with melted butter using crab forks as “poor man’s lobster” or chilled in ice water and served with cocktail sauce on toothpicks as “poor man’s shrimp.” However, my favorite way to eat drum is after hot smoking boneless fillet loins in apple wood after brining overnight.

Freshwater drum grow the largest otoliths (calcified inner ear bones) of any North American fish. They are known as ‘lucky stones’ due to a letter “L” that forms in the smooth side of the right otolith. The left one has a backward “L.” Beachcombers often find them polished clean by wave action to an ivory-like finish. Some Native peoples used lucky stones as currency. They are considered a goodluck charm, and local jewelry makers often feature these novelties in their work.

Article by: John Hageman. He now writes approximately 125 articles per year after retiring from the Ohio Sea Grant/Stone LaboratoryThe Ohio State University’s Lake Erie biology station at Put-In-Bay.

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