Past Present Future

C.L. Blackburn CNW Contributing Writer

Fashion has always been a form of communication if for no other reason but to distinguish one social class from another, or one’s profession and so on. Fashion says so much more about you than you think before you even open your mouth. Today vintage clothing is an inexorable phenomenon thus the description as ‘anachronistic attire’ meaning belonging to a period other than that being portrayed or belonging or appropriate to an earlier period, especially so as to seem conspicuously old-fashioned is a notable popular phrase amongst fashionistas. The attraction to particular designers’ vintage creations is for many reasons.

Red carpets and Instagram feeds are filled with archival Versace (worn in the last year by Jenna Ortega, Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Kim ), Jean Paul Gaultier (Hadid, the entire Kardashian-Jenner clan, Olivia Rodrigo), Valentino (Zendaya and Emma Chamberlain); and not without criticism Kim Kardashian’s appearance on the Met Gala red carpet wearing Marilyn Monroe’s original 1962 Jean Louis gown, in which she famously sang “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy. Of course, it was very much a publicity stunt for Kim Kardashian. Most recently, at the African American Black Film Festival, Kerry Washington wore the exact figure-hugging, red velvet, halter-neck dress Whitney Houston wore to perform at the 1996 BET’s Walk of Fame awards. Why? Because it is so beautiful!

Clearly, celebrities choose their attire for many reasons, mostly because they can, but primarily because they are public figures that have to always be actively visible to maintain their popularity. Thus, vintage looks established by iconic figures wearing magical pieces are a no-brainer. The magic is.

The popularity associated with known celebrities has now gone beyond and has reached into the realm of those who can afford the clothing items and want to appear bigger than life as do the stars they immolate.

The consistent highlights of magenta hints of nostalgia have been visible in many runway collections this season showcasing the wasp waists at Dior and the ‘power ‘shoulders of Saint Laurent identifying vintage designs. Inspiration is varied. There are those who wear gowns modeled after the historical mistresses of Versailles or 1860s shapes and contours like remixed music in applying current fabrics. There are those who have taken to reconstruct robes à la française for hundreds of hours, or dedicated historians for whom wearing a period design is an extension of their careers. This type of interest is what costume designers do when creating a look’ for period films.

Whether they call themselves historical costumers, period design specialists or interpreters, and or vintage enthusiasts the point is that their commitment or enthusiasm for the aesthetics of the past is enthralling. It begs the question about fashion as a form of communication through personal self-expression. So, what exactly does it mean to skip modern trends in favor of era portraits cut out of the past? It’s hard to imagine a woman walking down a busy street in the modern day wearing a corset, bustier, and bustle dress with an overlay laced Parasol. For Black people, who have embraced antique or historical clothing, it’s an interesting question as to why? It’s reminiscent of the

60s and 70’s when Blacks began wearing African-influenced attire is a statement screaming that they were identifying with their African roots. But today what is the connection? What statement are they making in embracing designs from the 18th-, 19th- or 20th-century, when most American Blacks were enslaved, and later could not afford the stylish attire? There were few Black designers of past eras and therefore, there are few designers in historical costuming. It’s referred to as ‘vintage style, not vintage values’ to make a statement that there were people of color in the past, and they wore these fashions.

Be clear that anachronistic attire is “a thing” and can be a conversation-starter or a form of escapism or a joyful form of escapism.