The Clothworkers' Annual Review 2012

The

Clothworkers’ Annual Review

2012

Contents

Introduction Textiles Trusteeship Collections Affiliations Court and Trustees

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The Clothworkers’ Company The Clothworkers’ Foundation Clothworkers’ Hall | Dunster Court | Mincing Lane | London EC3R 7AH Telephone 020 7623 7041 | Fax 020 7397 0107 enquiries@clothworkers.co.uk www.clothworkers.co.uk

2 Cover Weavers at Cockpit Arts, see page 6.

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Introduction

Introduction Founded almost five hundred years ago to promote the craft of clothworking in the City of London, the Clothworkers is today a membership organisation involved in the affairs of the City, and which aims to invest its surplus resources in philanthropic endeavour.

This Review covers the activities of the Livery Company, The Clothworkers’ Company, and its associated grant-making charity, The Clothworkers’ Foundation.

Established by Royal Charter in 1528, the Company was founded to regulate the craft of clothworking in the City of London. It supervised the training of apprentices and protected standards of workmanship.

Its members were all actively involved in the craft.

Charity has always been at the heart of the Company’s activity, initially supporting members in need, but subsequently also outsiders.

In modern times, the Clothworkers’ charitable activity has been channelled through its grant-making charity, The Clothworkers’ Foundation, and its associated trusts which focus on relief in need, education and blind welfare.

17th century Pepys Loving Cup

Livery Companies have always had close connections with the City Corporation and their members elect the Sheriffs and Lord Mayor to this day.

The Company passes its income, having paid the expenses of running the Hall and its activities, across to the Foundation each year. This, together with income from the Foundation’s own investments, is distributed to a broad range of charities.

The Clothworkers’ Company accumulated considerable wealth over the centuries, largely through bequests of money and property from members, and by prudent management of its assets.

The Company’s overall objectives are to administer its assets and affairs responsibly, play its part in the civic life of the City of London, support the textile industry in appropriate ways and seek to increase its charitable giving.

The Company remains a membership organisation, although there are no longer direct links with its original trade. Members join as Freemen or Freewomen, and some are elected to the Livery, when they take a more active role in the Company. The Court of Assistants, headed by the Master, runs the affairs of the Company, acting as a board of directors.

The Board of Trustees of the Foundation is drawn from the Court and Livery of the Company.

The Company has owned a Hall on the same site since the fifteenth century. This contains the administrative offices, together with function rooms used for member meetings and events. The latter are available for hire to third parties to make the venue accessible when not required for the Company’s own purposes and to contribute to the considerable cost of maintaining the building.

This Review covers the key activities of the Company: in textiles (where the Foundation is also active), its commitment to trusteeship and its support for the armed forces.

The Review is directed both at the members of the Company as well as interested outside parties; we hope it will make interesting and informative reading on the modern role of an ancient City Livery Company.

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Textiles

Textiles With its roots in cloth finishing, the Clothworkers’ Company (together with the Foundation) continues to be a significant supporter of textile and colour science projects in the UK.

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Our objectives ● Support textile technology and manufacturing in the UK ● Maintain our support of academic excellence and innovation in technical textiles, traditional textiles and colour science in the UK ● Encourage young adults to pursue studies and a career in these fields ● Selectively support and reward excellence in textile design ● Contribute to the preservation and accessibility of textiles collections of national importance Textile Technology and Manufacturing The Foundation has committed a £1.75m grant to the University of Leeds to establish the Clothworkers’ Centre for Textile Materials Innovation for Healthcare. The first instalment of £0.7m was paid in 2012, with the balance to be paid in the two following years subject to an annual progress review to ensure that the initiative is proceeding as planned.

Global demographics are increasing the demand for high quality, accessible and cost effective healthcare

products, a number of which rely on textile materials for their function. However, there has been limited technological development on these materials for many years, and substantial improvements in product performance are now required to support the growing and ageing population.

The new Centre will develop enabling technologies and prototype products to address requirements in four areas: blood filtration, healthcare acquired infections, chronic wound treatment, and incontinence management.

Based within the Centre for Technical Textiles at Leeds, the new Centre will collaborate closely with the School of Healthcare to ensure patient needs are at the heart of developments.

Our funding is supporting the appointment of a professional post, an academic fellowship, PhD studentships and research equipment. Initial appointments have been made, and the University is now looking to raise the balance of the £2.2m required.

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Textiles

Training Association for textiles and technical textiles.

Sir Paul Smith and Vince Cable In conjunction with two other Livery Companies, the Weavers and Dyers, we held a major conference at Clothworkers’ Hall in November 2012 entitled ‘A New Dawn: Rebuilding UK textile manufacturing’.

The event attracted 260 delegates and some prominent speakers, including the Business Secretary, Vince Cable, and Sir Paul Smith, as well as manufacturers and academics. The presentations included sessions on supply chain logistics and new research on the UK’s relative competitiveness.

Academic Excellence and Innovation The Company and Leeds University are co-funders of an Innovation Fund to support early stage innovations in textiles and colour science. Since its establishment in 2005, the Fund has disbursed over £600,000 to allow technology developed by academics at Leeds to commercialise their research.

The Foundation has provided a number of PhD bursaries at Leeds. Currently, students receiving funding are working on research projects involving low-water application processes for dyes and finishes; historical dyeing techniques; a system for making fashion colours from fibre blends; electrically-conductive links for smart textile applications; new non woven materials for medical textiles; and continuous filament nanofibres using forcespinning.

This initiative will deliver a programme of schools engagement, industry induction visits, a new apprenticeship model, higher level apprenticeships, and skills for growth.

The programme will take some time to build momentum. In order to provide an initial impetus, we have agreed to fund the cost of a project manager to create effective links between schools and employing companies as an ‘apprenticeship champion’.

Since 2010, we have provided funding to the Weavers’ Company Textile Education Fund to expand their capacity to place textile graduates with manufacturing companies. The scheme covers half of the costs of employing the individual for an initial period, thereby inducing the company to take them on. Encouragingly, a number of the graduates, including some of the eight placements in 2012, have gone on to a permanent role with their companies.

We continue to offer bursaries to students taking a BSc in Textile Science and Technology at Manchester University, including during the optional year taking an industry placement.

Our partnership with Cockpit Arts to help young weavers establish a career and make a living from their vocation is developing well.

Encouraging Young Adults The Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence has received a significant Government award which, with matched funding from textile companies, will create a National Group

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Textiles

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Cockpit Arts – The Clothworkers’ Foundation Awards

by Vanessa Swann, Chief Executive, Cockpit Arts Our relationship with The Clothworkers’ Foundation began in Spring 2011, when both the Foundation and Cockpit Arts were concerned about the decline in the number of weavers setting up in business after leaving university. At that time, as a result of the perceived difficulty of making a living from hand weaving, only three of the 165 craft businesses based at Cockpit Arts were weavers.

Both organisations were therefore keen to develop an initiative that would address the problem.

In today’s financial climate starting out in business can be difficult for any craftsperson and the size and cost of looms can make it particularly prohibitive for graduate weavers. The Foundation suggested that, in addition to making a number of Awards to recent graduates (with awardees providing matched funding) that would cover the cost of the Cockpit Arts’ business incubator package (comprising studio space, one to one business coaching, promotional and selling opportunities), it could also provide funding support to equip their studios with looms and other equipment.

From this coming together of two organisations with shared objectives, the Cockpit Arts / The Clothworkers’ Foundation Awards were born. Successfully launched in 2012, applications arrived from graduate weavers from universities throughout the UK. Six Award winners were

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selected and moved into Cockpit Arts in Spring 2012, occupying two studios at our south London incubator centre in Deptford with shared access to three large looms (Leclerc and Louet).

The Award scheme lasts for two years and already the six weavers are making fast progress. They have been reaping the benefits of operating as a mini weaving community within a larger creative community and support network of craftspeople working in a diverse range of disciplines. The Award winners may be sharing the same looms but there is a wide variety of new weaving businesses beginning to emerge including handwoven design originals; product ranges in conjunction with UK mills; interior wallhangings representing songs in woven form and exploration of fibre optics with woven fabric for a range of furniture and furnishings.

Cockpit Arts is looking forward enormously to supporting the young weavers with business development support over the coming year in order that their weaving businesses thrive and grow to national and international success.

Textiles

In 2012, we agreed to provide a grant to The Arts Foundation to create a Materials Innovation Fellowship, whereby an award is made each year to a textile designer to allow them to pursue their art. The awards are made towards living and working expenses, and applications will be judged by a panel of leading industry experts.

The British Museum is constructing a new World Conservation and Exhibitions Centre on the north western corner of its Bloomsbury site. Within the Centre will be the Clothworkers’ Organics Conservation Studio funded by our £0.75m donation.

We have also provided grants to individual collections – for the conservation of the Tudor Sheldon Tapestry Maps at the Bodleian Museum in Oxford, and for the preservation and display of Enid Marx’s textile designs at Compton Verney.

Block printed curtains designed by Enid Marx.

Preservation and Accessibility of Collections We are a significant supporter of the training of textile conservators, through annual MPhil bursaries to students at the Centre for Textile Conservation in Glasgow and our five-year internship programme at the Historic Royal Palaces Textile Conservation Studio at Hampton Court.

With the contraction of UK textile manufacturing, the archives of many companies are at risk of disappearing. The Company has funded a project to allow an experienced textile archivist, in conjunction with The National Archives, to produce a database of where such archives are currently held so that their whereabouts are not lost.

Architect’s drawing of Victoria & Albert Museum’s Clothworkers’ Centre

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of Enid M arx

Designs by Tania Knuckey, winner of Texprint 2012 Interiors Prize

Good progress is being made on two major projects supported by the Foundation. The Victoria & Albert Museum’s Clothworkers’ Centre for Textiles and Fashion Study and Conservation will open on schedule in October 2013. We have made a £1m grant to this important initiative.

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Excellence in Textile Design We have been longstanding core supporters of the key textile design competitions in the UK – Texprint (fabric design for interiors prize), the Bradford Textile Society (seven of the fourteen categories) and New Designers (print prize). In addition, for the last few years we have supported the Textile Institute’s Design Means Business exhibition.

Textiles

Charitable Grants 2012 University of Leeds First instalment of £1,750,000 grant for the Clothworkers’ Centre for Textile Materials Innovation for Healthcare £720,000 University of Oxford Conservation of Sheldon Maps tapestries £40,000

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Arts Foundation Materials Innovation Fellowships

£39,000

University of Manchester BSc bursaries in Textile Science and Technology £31,750 Centre for Textile Conservation MPhil bursary at University of Glasgow

£25,000

Cockpit Arts Bursaries and purchase of sample loom

£22,000

Royal College of Art MA bursaries in textile design

£13,000

Bradford Textile Society Trust Fabric design competition

£5,200

Compton Verney House Trust Conservation of Enid Marx textile collection £5,000 Total

£900,950

Company Support 2012 University of Leeds Clothworkers Innovation Fund New Designers Printed Textile Prize Total

£100,000

£1,300 £101,300

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Trusteeship

Trusteeship Common purpose The Company continues to encourage members to participate in some form of pro bono activity with trusteeship as its common purpose. A number of members have recently taken up positions as charity trustees and the objective is that more members will become actively involved in this initiative.

Support for members We have been working with Reach, a volunteering charity, and Prospectus, a third sector-focused recruitment company, on a pilot programme to match Clothworkers to charities who are seeking trustees.

Several Liverymen have successfully secured trustee

roles through the initiative. Following the successful pilot, all Liverymen who have been elected in the last two years and all new Liverymen have been encouraged to go through the process whereby Prospectus work with each new Liveryman to customise their CV for a charity trustee role, and help them identify what is best suited to their skills set and interests. There have been a number of events at the Hall to support the programme.

New Philanthropy Capital and The Clothworkers’ Company – Partners on Trusteeship Iona Joy, Head of Charity Effectiveness, NPC NPC and The Clothworkers’ Company both believe that good governance is key to charity effectiveness. Good governance encourages and supports good executive leadership and effective strategies. Poor governance gets in the way of otherwise competent management, and tolerates poor leadership and charity practices.

Our collaboration on trusteeship goes back to 2008 when the Clothworkers commissioned NPC to write Board Matters, a review of charity trusteeship including a guide to good practice. Updates and other governance-themed reports have followed. But in 2010 the Clothworkers and NPC concluded that a seminar series would be a good way of engaging trustees on issues that matter and encouraging good governance. We’ve run a dozen such seminars, with about 600 people coming through the doors over the period.

We invite speakers from trustee boards, experts from the sector, and executives working for charities to share experiences. Groups of trustees on tables then discuss their reaction and feedback to the wider group. Trustees respond well to the opportunity to talk to peers and experts, and indeed NPC uses the seminars to inform its own thinking.

Each seminar covers one topic and these have ranged from a discussion of the Code of Good

Governance when launched in 2012, to managing risk in an evermore hair-raising financial environment. We have had sessions on mergers, governing small charities, social investment, and collaboration. Each seminar frames the discussion in terms of how trustees might respond to the issue. NPC writes them up in short briefing notes that are easily accessed through NPC’s website www.thinkNPC.org. Taken together, the six briefing notes published on the topics have been downloaded nearly 1,500 times.

These evening events are held in Clothworkers’ Hall, with wine and nibbles courtesy of the Clothworkers provided after the session.

Participants tell us this opportunity for networking is invaluable. The three most recent events reached 110 charity trustees. We asked participants how useful they found them. Of those that completed feedback forms, 79% had their expectations met; 99% found the events useful or very useful; 100% felt they would or would possibly use the learning from the event. They also told us: ‘As a newly appointed trustee of a very small entity, this has been invaluable.’

‘Good discussion session with wide range of conversations and feedback from other tables.’ ‘A very useful and thought provoking event that will sink in over the next few days.’

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Collections

Collections Over the past year several new pieces have been added to our collections.

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Silver A silver centrepiece by rising star of the craft, Theresa Nguyen, will be an impressive feature in table displays. We have a tradition, dating back several centuries, of commissioning pieces of fine silver from talented goldsmiths, and we are keen to continue this philosophy of patronage. Going forward we intend to commission a new piece of silver every other year in order to build up a representative collection of the best of contemporary silver made in Britain.

Watercolour maps of Company’s properties in London in 1612 and 2012

Maps Richard Jonas, Master 2010-2011, generously presented the Company with two watercolour maps of the Company’s properties in the City of London in 1612 and 2012 as his Master’s gift. They were painted by the artist Cetra Long. Both are accompanied by representations of several of the properties’ facades at both dates.

In the case of the earlier map, no surviving illustrations could be traced and the artist painstakingly created visualisations based upon details recorded in the Company’s Treswell Plan Book and other archival documents. Ralph Treswell, surveyor and PainterStainer, was asked by the Company in 1611 to produce detailed plans of all its properties; the resultant book of watercolour plans records exact dimensions of every room in every building, together with details of the precise location of everything from windows to privies.

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The year 1612 was selected to mark the 400 year anniversary of the making of the Treswell plans, considered one of our most important treasures in the Archives.

The maps are a unique and fascinating addition to our collection of paintings and are now on display in the Court Corridor.

Conservation As it had been many years since our collection of paintings had been regularly inspected and cleaned, a programme of preventative conservation was initiated in 2012.

This work comprised dusting and surface cleaning canvases, touching up losses, adjusting tension, cleaning and consolidating losses on frames and building up and introducing new backboards to the frames to provide extra structural stability and prevent dust penetration.

Almost half of the Company’s collection has now been attended to and work on the remaining paintings will be addressed in the future. The pictures now look markedly improved – in part attributable to the removal of nicotine stains from their surfaces [members will recall that smoking was permitted in the Hall until 2007].

This year we also cleaned and improved the display of the model of the Company’s eighteenth century barge, prompted by renewed interest in this aspect of our history arising from the spectacle of the Queen’s Jubilee pageant on the Thames in June.

The model, generously presented to the Company by Major Walter Pothecary, a former Clerk, in 1958, was cleaned and the paintwork and gilding was revived by a model ship builder and restorer. The case was also cleaned and re-lined and integral lighting, new labelling and mounts introduced to streamline the display.

Barge after cleaning

Collections

Mudejar binding repaired by QEST student Mary French

Bookbinding The Company continues to lend its support to bookbinding, recognised to be an endangered craft.

We support prizes in the Open Choice category at Designer Bookbinders’ (DB) annual competition, provide modest bursaries to bookbinders attending training master classes organised by DB and the Society of Bookbinders, and continue to commission bindings of key works in our Library each year. Our bindings are now on display in the Entrance Hall where they have received much favourable attention from members and visitors since their installation.

We are concerned about the decline in training

opportunities for bookbinders and last year we initiated a partnership with QEST, the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust, to co-fund a scholar in bookbinding on an annual basis. QEST is the charitable arm of the Royal Warrant Holders’ Association and exists to provide valuable scholarships to talented craftsmen and women to advance their education and skills in a variety of modern and traditional crafts in the UK. In 2012 our funding with QEST was split three ways to enable three talented students further their training in book conservation. Emma Nichols and Sarai Vardi received funding towards their MA in Conservation course fees at Camberwell College of Arts and Mary French towards her MA at West Dean College. We were pleased to welcome all three scholars to our annual Students’ Lunch earlier this year.

Archives Cataloguing of the Company’s archives continues apace and we plan to make our catalogue available online through our website in the near future.

We also plan to include images of selected archives and works of art alongside catalogue descriptions in order to give a flavour of the breadth and highlights of our collections.

Since the last Review, we are pleased to report that a further four Livery Companies have signed up to participate in ROLLCO, The Records of London’s Livery Companies Online: Apprentices and Freemen, 1400-1900.

This brings the total of participating Companies to eight and makes ROLLCO an even more significant research resource than before. Visit www.londonroll.org to begin your Clothworker family research.

Sarai Vardi, one of the students who received co-funding, works on a damaged French map

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Collections

Clothworkers Centrepiece Commission Theresa Nguyen

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Every journey has a starting point and as I reflect back upon the start of this journey I feel so grateful that the Works of Art Committee right from the beginning were so encouraging, challenging me to stretch my creativity and giving me the freedom to be ambitious with my designs.

This centrepiece has been the most ambitious work that I have made so far in my career and has truly been a labour of love for me over the past 9 months.

I feel that I have grown incredibly as an artist silversmith through the journey of completing this commission.

The original spark for this piece was inspired by the form of eryngium leaves and their wild appearance.

I wanted to capture this element without trying to imitate the actual form of the leaves themselves.

As my ideas evolved through drawings and paper models, I began to develop a narrative for the piece.

I thought that the reason that the leaves were so wild and dangerous looking was because they were protecting something that was delicate and precious at the heart of the piece.

I decided to gold-plate the central buds to convey the precious nature of what the leaves were protecting.

Quite often we can misjudge situations, people and even art by what they appear like on the outside and it is only when we look at the heart that we can truly see the good.

I wanted the central buds to be almost hidden to convey this idea and try and ask people to take a second and third look deeper into the piece as a metaphor for looking beyond outward appearances and looking at the heart.

My hope for this piece is simply that people will take a second look, maybe from a different angle and see something that they didn’t see at first.

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Affiliations

Affiliations The Company has active relationships with units of the Armed Forces. The newest link is with the Royal Air Force.

47 Squadron In 2011 we made an approach to the Royal Air Force, who suggested an affiliation with 47 Squadron. The relationship started well with the Master and Clerk visiting the Squadron in May 2012, where they were invited to explore a Hercules on the ground. The Squadron Commander also provided them with an insight into their survival training and a tour of the base. They subsequently attended the annual Squadron Reception in late May and were made to feel most welcome. The Company was delighted when representatives of the Squadron attended the December Livery Dinner. We are contributing to Squadron family outings and towards the annual Squadron Dinner. We are looking forward to developing the relationship and further events are being planned for 2013.

HMS Dauntless We supported the commissioning of a Deployment Book depicting all the phases of the Ship’s six month deployment in the South Atlantic and Caribbean. The Ship was on defence and support duties around the Falkland Islands, and then on maritime security and counter narcotics/piracy details in the Caribbean and

off Senegal. The book gives an insight into life onboard a modern warship.

Several members have been on board the Ship including a lunch as the Ship sailed from Portsmouth to Newcastle (with which the Dauntless is affiliated).

Ten Clothworkers joined the Ship in Portsmouth for a day at sea as part of their Affiliates’ Day. The Company has contributed to the Ship’s Welfare Fund, with the money being put to good use updating fixtures and fittings in the messes, subsidising events whilst in foreign ports, purchasing sports and entertainment equipment for use at sea, and allowing sailors to attend activities benefitting them personally and professionally.

Scots Guards We continued our support of the Scots Guards with a number of social events including funding a trip to Lightwater Valley in Yorkshire for the families of Guardsmen currently in Afghanistan, and a grant towards the families’ Christmas party. A further trip is scheduled to visit the 1st Battalion at their base in Catterick, North Yorkshire.

We also provided a grant for commissioning a painting of operations in Afghanistan for the Officers’ Mess in Catterick.

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Affiliations

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The First Aid Nursing Yeomanry (Princess Royal’s Volunteer Corps) and the Clothworkers

By Commandant Kim McCutcheon The FANY (PRVC) is proud of its seven year affiliation with the Clothworkers’ Company and is extremely grateful to the Company for the generous grant which pays for the salary of the FANY Operations Officer.

The Clothworkers’ Company currently provides funding for the role of the Operations Officer, Commander Alex Milne, who is employed by the Trustees to work a two-day week at FANY Headquarters. This position evolved from that of the Liasion Officer. The Operations Officer provided the vital link as a single point of contact for the seven organisations which the FANY supported in 2012, and was therefore able to ensure that roles came to fruition, that members were able to train and support these organisations effectively during the Olympic Games, and that the roles would transfer into enduring commitments.

Support was given to: the Ministry of Defence; Metropolitan Police; City of London Police; Cabinet Office (COBR);71 Signal Regiment; Coroner’s Office; and the City of London Corporation.The statistics following the Games are tangible proof of the extensive undertaking of the membership. The Corps was fully committed, with 62% of the Corps

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either on task or on call on any given day across the period, and 92% of FANYs deployed with at least one unit across the entire event. In all, 2,351 volunteer hours were given in support, with one member volunteering for 15 full days which she fitted in around her full-time employment. Looking to the future, all are developing into enduring roles, either being on task during other similar major events, such as the Commonwealth Games in Glasgow in 2014, or as a permanent on-call resource in case of a major incident. Support to the Westminster Coroner, for example, will be extended to other London Coroners.

Credit for this outstanding result must go to the members themselves, but the co-ordination of the roles would not have been possible without the role of the Operations Officer.

Court and Trustees T H E C L OT H WO R K E R S ’ C O M PA N Y 2012-2013 Master Robin Booth Wardens Christopher McLean May Michael Howell Michael Jarvis John Coombe-Tennant Assistants Emeriti Peter Luttman-Johnson TD Richard Horne JP John Horne Geoffrey Purefoy The Viscount Slim OBE DL Alan Mays-Smith DL Alastair Leslie TD Anthony Purefoy MBE Alastair Ingham Clark Sir John Hall Bt Philip Sumner Errol Mews John Hutchins Richard Saunders Richard Jones Paul Bowerman Paul Wates John Jones David Sutcliffe OBE DL Robert Wade Timothy Roberton

Court of Assistants John Papworth Timothy Morgan Christopher Jonas CBE Anthony West DL Neil Foster Richard Jonas John Stoddart-Scott DL Henry McDougall Michael Malyon Antony Jones Rear Admiral Michael Harris JP Oliver Howard David Bousfield Melville Haggard Timothy Bousfield Dr Carolyn Boulter JP DL Peter Langley John Wake Sir Jonathan Portal Bt Philip Portal Andrewjohn Stephenson Clarke Nicholas Horne

T H E C L OT H WO R K E R S ’ F O U N DAT I O N Chairman Michael Jarvis

Deputy Chairman Dr Carolyn Boulter JP DL

Trustees Robin Booth Philip Portal Christopher McLean May Andrewjohn Stephenson Clarke Michael Howell Tom Ingham Clark Richard Jonas Joanna Dodd Melville Haggard Alex Nelson Michael Malyon

S TA F F Clerk to the Company and Chief Executive of the Foundation Andrew Blessley Director of Finance and Administration Stephen White Chief Accountant Andy Boon

Beadle and Hall Manager Michael Drummond

Grants Manager Philip Howard

Archivist Kathryn Rooke

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