Motorhomes, Caravans and Destinations Issue #192

FIRST CLASS TRAVEL INSIDE THE ‘PALACE’ PAGE 58

TUTUKĀKĀ, WAIHĪ & TAUPŌ WHERE TO VISIT, EAT, AND STAY ISSUE 192 19 MAR – 15 APR 2020 $9.95

Inside: Get connected – join the online motorhoming community Get your walking gear on 4 of NZ’s great short tracks

Beautiful Blenheim The magic of Wither Hills

PLUS! recipes, events, RV reviews & more

CONTENTS FEATURES

WHEEL ESTATE

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GET SOCIAL

58

NEXT-LEVEL LUXURY

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FUELLING YOUR JOURNEY

64

PERFECT HARMONY

70

READY FOR ACTION

Tips on joining the online RV community How to save precious fuel dollars with a fuelcard

MORELO Palace 93MB

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Bürstner Lyseo T700

Action Everland R727

EXPLORE 18

WONDER WALKS

26

WONDERFUL WAIHĪ

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ME & MY RV

34

EXPLORING TUTUKĀKĀ

82

JACKIE’S JOURNEY

40

CRUISING THE CALDERA

86

GYPSY TRUCKER

44

FREE & INEXPENSIVE THINGS TO DO IN TAUPŌ

90

BIRDS ON A BUS

We take a look at some of NZ's great short tracks The best places in Waihī to visit, eat, and stay Heather Whelan discovers the beautiful Tutukākā coastline

We visit the hinterland of Australia's Gold Coast

Enjoy the attractions of Taupō without breaking the budget

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A GOOD EGG

Win a $100 voucher for Hawke's Bay's Urban Winery & Restaurant

PEOPLE Deborah and Steve Murray and their Bailey Unicorn Cabrera

This month, Jackie and Gareth explore the Wither Hills in Blenheim

Gavin MacKenzie swapped a military career for life in The Gypsy Fair

Meet Dave Milner, a motorhomer having a quail of a time

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44

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CAR LICENCE

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TECHNICAL TIPS 76

RV MEETS EV

A look at the latest e-advances in the RV world

EVERY ISSUE 8

EDITOR’S LETTER

12

INBOX

14

READER LETTERS

16

EVENTS

52

8 GREAT

89

SUBSCRIPTIONS

92

RECIPES

96

BOOKS

98

PUZZLES

113

LISTINGS FORM

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PRIVATE LISTINGS

Your chance to win a prize pack of books Reader feedback

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What to see and do around the country in the coming months Caves to explore around NZ

Subscribe to MCD magazine and save Tasty recipes to help you prepare an Easter feast The latest titles to hit the bookshelves Crosswords, Sudoku & more Selling your motorhome or caravan? List with us here Looking for a secondhand RV? Check out our classifieds

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EDITOR’S LETTER

W

elcome to issue 192. This month, I’ve enjoyed reading the feedback from our most recent Facebook question asking where readers are planning to travel in the coming months.

It seems the South Island is a popular choice. I can certainly understand why and can’t wait to get back there for another visit soon. On my travel wish-list is the Arrowtown Autumn Festival in April. If you’re looking for inspiration, have a read of our Inbox on page 12.

As we go to print with this issue, the MCD team is gearing up for the Covi Motorhome Caravan & Outdoor SuperShow. By the time you read this, the show will be done and dusted — but if you missed out, we’ll be covering it in our next issue, so stay tuned. Be sure also to mark the dates for the Motorhome, Caravan & Leisure shows later this year: 3 to 4 July at the Horncastle Arena in Christchurch and 18 to 20 September at the Mystery Creek Events Centre in Hamilton. We’ll bring you more details in the lead-up to each.

In this month’s issue, we have travel stories from around New Zealand, including some great short tramps, what to see and do in Waihī, and some fun free and cheap activities to enjoy if you’re heading to Taupō. We also have a great feature on how to reduce your fuel budget by using a fuelcard, and tips on getting involved in some of the great online RV communities popping up on Facebook. And as always, our travel writers have been out and about meeting some of the fascinating folk living and travelling longterm in their RVs. This month we meet a chap who keeps a flock of quail on board, and another who quit a highflying career in the air force to join The Gypsy Fair.

Do you have a story that might be of interest to our readers? Be sure to get in touch.

Enjoy this month’s issue. Happy travels.

Claire Smith, editor

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EDITORIAL

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Editor Claire Smith | claire@nzmcd.co.nz Sub-editor Tracey Strange Art director Kavita Kumar Image retouching Chrissy Pownall Digital content manager Fleur Covich

CONTRIBUTORS Jill Malcolm, Bill Savidan, Jackie Norman, Heather Whelan, Lisa Jansen, Malcolm Street, Elisabeth Easther, Kathryn Teeboon, Lyn Barnes

COVER Rebekah Robinson

ADVERTISING Advertising sales manager Danny McKendry 022 392 1788 | sales@nzmcd.co.nz Private advertising 0800 872 337 | helpdesk@nzmcd.co.nz

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SUBSCRIPTIONS For subscription enquiries, please phone 0800 115 530 or email subs@nzmcd.co.nz

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FEEDBACK We value your feedback. Send all comments/queries to: claire@nzmcd.co.nz

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Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations is published four-weekly by MCD Media Ltd, Level 1, 29 Great South Road, Newmarket. PO Box 9438, Newmarket Distributed by Ovato Printed by Webstar

This magazine (and its websites) is subject to the New Zealand Press Council. Complaints to be first directed in writing to claire@ nzmcd.co.nz. If the complainant is not satisfied with the response, the complaint may be referred to the Press Council P O Box 10-879, The Terrace, Wellington 6143 or e-mail (info@presscouncil.org.nz. Further detail and an online complaints forms are available at presscouncil.org.nz.

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INBOX

INBOX Share your stories and feedback at claire@nzmcd.co.nz or Facebook.com/ mcdmagazine

Last month, we asked you to tell us about your next big adventure.

The winner of the pack of books this month is Lynne Haines: “Three years on the road and planning to spend time biking, including the Timber Trail and Forgotten Highway, then hanging out for about six months around the TaranakiWhanganui area as we haven’t checked these parts of the North Island yet.”

Here are other comments we received from readers:

We will be looking after the fabulous Dannevirke lower domain campground for two weeks in August to give the manager a well-deserved break.

So the books will be handy in case we get a little quiet time. Look forward to seeing some fellow NZMCA members perhaps. Pop in and say hi.

Pamela Chapman

We are three-quarters of the way through our second lap around New Zealand. We started in Tauranga in mid-October via the East Cape, Hawke’s Bay, Taupō, the Manawatu, Picton, Kaikoura, Waipawa, Twizel, Ōamaru, Dunedin, Ranfurly, Alexandra, Te Anau, Mount Cook, Geraldine, Arthur’s Pass, Hokitika, Greymouth, Westport, Murchison, Motueka, Takaka, Farewell Spit, Nelson, Wanganui, Taranaki, Forgotten Highway, Taumarunui, and now undecided future. We have travelled more than 10,000km towing a 9m Bailey caravan.

Peter Davies

We’re on week two of our 2020 honeymoon tour of South Island. No planning really… one day after the next. Loving it.

Took the three dogs.

Craig Mackay

We just got home from a month around the Wairarapa — from Taupō to Napier and right down to Cape Palliser and over Gentle Annie to home. Awesome.

Cleone Hull

Heading to Wanaka for Warbirds this Easter.

Rebecca Sandford

Hitting the road with the kids to WOMAD, the music festival in New Plymouth, in 10 days.

Super excited.

Esme Sutton

The Abel Tasman is next up.

John Power

We have just updated our caravan and are planning trips away during schoolholiday time. We will either go to the Wairarapa or New Plymouth.

Jennifer Gerrie

We’ll be heading for MacKenzie Country at the first snow dump.

Mary Howan

The West Coast to ride the Wilderness Trail.

Lynda White

We’re feeling courageous and taking our young sons with us as we explore the South Island in autumn. Loving the fact we will have our caravan with us for the month-long trip.

Neerja Diack We off to National Park with the mokos, then Roto-Vagas on the way home in July.

Alan Hopkins

We’re travelling to beautiful Rotorua for ANZAC weekend.

Sylvia Parke

SHARE YOUR FEEDBACK AND WIN A PRIZE PACK OF BOOKS This month, we have another prize pack of books to give away. To be in to win, share your sustainability tips. What advice do you have on being environmentally friendly as you travel? Email us at claire@nzmcd.co.nz or comment at facebook.com/mcdmagazine. We’ll draw a lucky winner on 2 April 2020.

Email your feedback to us at claire@nzmcd.co.nz or comment at facebook.com/mcdmagazine.

12 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

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READER LETTERS

LETTERS FROM OUR READERS We love hearing from our readers and winners. Here is some of the welcome feedback we’ve had recently. If you’d like to get in touch, email the editor at claire@nzmcd.co.nz, or to be in to win one of our competitions, visit nzmcd.co.nz/competitions

NEW TO THE RV LIFESTYLE

My family and I love your magazine and have recently purchased and started holidaying in our new Jayco Eagle camper trailer. We live in Auckland but have just taken the camper trailer on holiday in the South Island for three weeks.

I’ve attached a couple of pics from our holiday.

Vanessa Campbell

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

It came as quite a surprise to win two nights’ at the Waitete Trout Stream Holiday Park through Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations. We had stayed there last year and were keen to return again, which we have now done.

We were allocated a power site right alongside the stream and had no problem parking our VW Crafter in the spacious site, which had its own water supply, dump, and lighting, as well as an open grassy area down to the water.

The facilities were all close by, and the ablutions were spotless, as was the kitchen (which we did not use, but it was well patronised by other campers who all had positive comments).

There is also a laundry, games room, and TV lounge in the same building, which also has accommodation. There are canoes, and a dinghy for use on the stream plus The Troutman can be contacted to offer fly fishing lessons.

We would have no hesitation in staying again in the future.

Bill and Ann Ellingham (NZMCA 12980)

14 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

THANKS FOR THE SUPERB MEAL

It was a great surprise to win the $100 voucher to use at Maha Restaurant in Kerikeri. I took my father along for lunch. The restaurant is set in a beautiful spot with lovely subtropical gardens all around.

Diane served us, and she was super-friendly and helpful and went through the entire menu explaining everything to us. The food was amazing; beautiful ingredients cooked to perfection with all those little extras you only get at the good places.

We loved every bit of our experience there and will be heading back again for sure. We would totally recommend Maha to anyone who’s after great food with great service.

Jason Saunders

PAYING IT FORWARD

Some years ago - when I was an annual subscriber to your magazine - you sent me a towel as a promotional item, and it arrived as we were packing to shift, not to be seen again until just recently.

This last weekend, the Whanganui area of the NZMCA ran a grandkids rally at a local school and everyone, including parents, had loads of fun.

The focus was to give the children insight into the games we played at camps during the 1950s and 1960s with running, sack races, egg and spoon races, and three-legged races plus egg throwing and catching, and of course a tug of war.

All the kids got a prize for one thing or another, but I saved the towel till last and gave it to a little girl who was very shy and took a bit of convincing to join in.

I wanted to share this photo with you and thank you for the prize.

Dave H Hawkins 15

EVENTS

We’ve found some great events around the country worth checking out over the coming weeks

THE GREAT NZ MUSTER Organised by the Waitomo District Council, the Great NZ Muster is an annual event unique to the King Country. A cross between a country fair and a rural extravaganza, it is Kiwi heartland at its best.

Te Kuiti’s main street will be transformed with displays and specials to capture the attention. Sheep-themed signs will decorate shop fronts, and sidewalks will be lined with fantastic products, food stalls, arts and crafts displays and rural exhibits. Everywhere you look, there will be something happening. Enjoy the entertainment on the main stage with performers showcasing their talents. There will also be exciting competitions, and sheep-mustering skills on display.

WHEN: 4 April 2020 WHERE: Main Street, Te Kuiti MORE INFO: waitomo.govt.nz

HIGHLANDS FESTIVAL OF SPEED The spectacular Festival of Speed at Highlands returns with an amazing selection of historical and classic vehicles battling it out on the world-class Highlands circuit.

The Festival of Speed is renowned as one of the most popular racing events in New Zealand. This is a weekend packed with some of the best modern classic racing in New Zealand, featuring the Mainland Muscle, Formula Libre, Highlands Modern Classics & Highlands Nostalgic Classics and the Vintage Car Club. Join us for some true-blue Kiwi racing starring some of New Zealand’s most well-known racing legends.

WHEN: 4 to 5 April 2020 WHERE: H ighlands Motorsport Park, Cromwell MORE INFO: highlands.co.nz

KIMBOLTON SCULPTURE FESTIVAL Building on two successful years, the Kimbolton Sculpture Festival 2020 is going to be bigger than ever, taking this little Manawatu village to new levels of creativity. Enjoy a wonderful day out with jaw-dropping sculptures that reflect on the beautiful land in which we live. Bring the family and wander the stalls, grab some tasty food and good coffee and get involved in some fun activities.

WHEN: 4 April 2020 WHERE: Kimbolton Domain MORE INFO: ruralart.nz

16 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

AKARUA ARROWTOWN AUTUMN FESTIVAL Now entering its 36th year, the Akarua Arrowtown Autumn Festival attracts large numbers of locals and visitors during one of the most colourful times of the year. Expect many fun-filled events suited to people of all ages with a focus on community, including an art exhibition at the Lakes District Museum, the Parade and Market Day, the Pie, Pint and Pinot event, the Gold Panning Championships and the Fun Dog Show.

WHEN: 16 to 20 April 2020 WHERE: Various locations in Arrowtown MORE INFO: arrowtownautumnfestival.co.nz

HAVE AN EVENT COMING UP? LET US KNOW AT CLAIRE@NZMCD.CO.NZ

REPCO BEACH HOP The Repco Beach Hop is situated in sunny Whangamatā and is the largest event of its kind for classic cars in New Zealand. The Beach Hop represents the golden era of vehicles — V8 engines, bench seats and open-top convertibles.

On show will be classic cars in classic colours, chromed and gleaming in the summer sun. This five-day festival is unrivalled for its atmosphere and comes with hot rods from the 1950s and 1960s. The event is free to the public with motorhome and caravan parking available for $25 a night.

WHEN: 25 to 29 March 2020 WHERE: Whangamatā, Coromandel FIND OUT MORE: beachhop.co.nz

BAY OF ISLANDS COUNTRY ROCK FESTIVAL The Bay of Islands Country Rock Festival features good music and friendship in the stunning setting of the Bay of Islands — one of the country’s top tourism spots.

Each year, the festival features more than 50 acts from New Zealand and Australia performing at multiple venues. Street music and line dancing are also popular features.

WHEN: 8 to 10 May 2020 WHERE: Various venues — Paihia, Russell MORE INFO: country-rock.co.nz

WARBIRDS OVER WANAKA Head to the beautiful town of Wanaka for three days of high-octane aviation excitement at Warbirds Over Wanaka International Air Show over Easter weekend. One of the stars of the show this year is the Polikarpov I-16, a World War II Russian fighter, which was last in Wanaka at the 2008 Airshow. It was one of nine Polikarpov aircraft salvaged from Siberia and restored by airshow founder Sir Tim Wallis back in the early 1990s.

Also at the show (Sunday only) will be the USAF Boeing B-52 Stratofortress.

The B-52 celebrated 60 years of continuous service with the USAF in 2015 and, after undergoing upgrades around that time, it is expected to be still serving into the 2050s.

This will make it the longest-serving bomber aircraft in history.

WHEN: 10 to 12 April 2020 WHERE: Wanaka Airport, Luggate MORE INFO: warbirdsoverwanaka.com

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EXPLORE | BOOK EXTRACT

WONDER WALKS In this extract from the newly released book, Day Walks in New Zealand, we take a look at four great short tracks worth adding to your ‘to do’ list this year

Castle Point Lighthouse

18 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

W

alking is one of life’s great pleasures. Humans evolved to walk; the pace allows us to observe and absorb our surroundings, and we gain great benefits from the rhythm and physicality of striding. Walkers can set out knowing they are doing something physically good for themselves and something good for their minds as well. As for a place for walking, New Zealand rates as one of the best in the world.

CASTLE POINT LIGHTHOUSE, DELIVERANCE COVE, CASTLEPOINT SCENIC RESERVE

No other coastal landform in New Zealand is remotely like Castlepoint, and it’s the most scenic of all the Wairarapa’s many interesting coastlines. The Castle Point Lighthouse perches atop an old limestone reef, raised out of the sea like an upturned ship hull. Southwards, the reef forms a low ­protective barrier against the surf, almost encircling the aptly named Deliverance Cove, through which many a fishing boat has retreated to safety from heavy seas. And above it all rises the monolithic Matira/ Castle Rock – a coastal knoll flanked by eroded cliffs.

The walk to the Castle Point Lighthouse suits walkers and families of all abilities, although parents should watch their children closely around cliff edges. Fishing boats, launched on large and specially

designed trailers with very long drawbars, form another interesting aspect of the area.

Adjacent to the scenic reserve is the small Castlepoint beach community; once a place of modest baches, now a p ­ opular holiday spot with some palatial homes.

A campground and shop service visitors and locals alike.

Car park to Castle Point Lighthouse: 30 minutes return

From the car park, cross the sandy isthmus to a bridge that straddles the channel out of Deliverance Cove. A well-graded concrete path leads up a gentle slope to the prominent lighthouse, built in 1913.

Above the lighthouse, a set of wooden stairs leads to a viewing platform with a fine vista of the coastline north and south. Stairs continue to loop around the headland among coastal vegetation back to the lighthouse. Keep an eye out for shellfish fossils.

Deliverance Cove Track: 1.5 hours return

Walk around the sandy shore of Deliverance Cove to where an obvious but unmarked trail leads into the dunes at the base of Castle Rock. From here the trail climbs uphill over grassy slopes, reaching a small saddle, where there is a wooden seat with views of Deliverance Cove to the north and Christmas Cove to

the south. A DOC sign here warns that the ­unofficial route up Castle Rock is not maintained and dangerous. Nevertheless, it’s very popular with holidaymakers visiting Castlepoint. It climbs, reaching an outstandingly spectacular, airy view near the cliff edge. Above, the well-worn trail keeps west, away from the unstable cliff edge, to emerge onto the flat grassy summit of Castle Rock (162m). Stay away from the edge - a fall from here would be fatal, and the route is definitely not recommended in windy conditions, or for small children, or those with vertigo.

Back at the wooden seat, a benched track leads around the edge of farmland, through areas replanted with native shrubs in recent years. The track descends through pines to reach the car park.

Grade: Easy (lighthouse), Hard (Castle Rock) Total walking time: 2–2.5 hours return (combining both walks) Access: From the northern outskirts of Masterton, turn right onto Te Ore Ore Road, following signposts to Castlepoint. The road becomes the Masterton– Castlepoint Road, which ends at the beach. Allow an hour for the 50km drive from Masterton, which is windy in places.

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Glenorchy Scheelite Hut

GLENORCHY SCHEELITE HUTS, WHAKAARI CONSERVATION AREA

Most people who visit Glenorchy, the township at the head of Lake Wakatipu, are headed for Mount Aspiring National Park, perhaps for a walk on the famous Routeburn Track, a jetboat trip up the Dart River or to tramp the Rees–Dart Circuit. Many don’t realise that rewarding walks exist right near the township, in the Richardson Mountains, notably to a network of rustic huts used in the fascinating scheelite-mining period.

Scheelite is an ore of tungsten, a soft metal important in the munitions industry, and the fortunes of Glenorchy’s hardy scheelite miners rested squarely on what was ­happening in the wider world. During times of war, mining was profitable; during peace time, not so much. The Richardson Mountains are a hard, high place, especially in winter, so the miners needed shelter. Because the century-long mining period lasted as late as the 1980s, many of the huts have ­survived, and DOC has in recent years done a wonderful job of restoring several of them.

The huts are located in two main 20 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

groups: those on the flanks of Mt Alaska in the headwaters of Bonnie Jean Creek, and those on the flanks of Mt McIntosh, on the opposite side of the Buckler Burn. Three (Heather Jock, McIntyre and McIntosh) are available for overnight stays.

This walk makes an interesting circuit around the huts in the Bonnie Jean catchment, and will occupy a full day.

Those wanting a shorter walk can turn back at Jean Hut (4–5 hours return) or simply visit the Glenorchy Scheelite Battery (1.5–2 hours return). Take plenty of sun protection in summer; during winter you may need an ice axe and crampons.

Wyuna to Bonnie Jean Hut via Judah Track: 3–4 hours

The Judah Track at first climbs through dry farm country, near the torrid Buckler Burn, to join the old mine vehicle track after 30 or so minutes. After another 15 minutes, the track leads up to the Glenorchy Scheelite Battery site, which was the main processing plant for ore transported down from the mines in the mountains above.

Much of the machinery has been restored, and you can also poke your nose into the mine manager’s hut. The main route

continues up the vehicle track, which climbs at a steady, even gradient, eventually rounding a lower shoulder of Mt Judah, where there are views into the headwaters of Bonnie Jean Creek and Mt Alaska high above. To the north are views of Mt McIntosh, and the keen eye might even spot some of the huts there. The ­country is largely open and barren with tough, spiky plants, but beech forest cloaks much of the Buckler Burn below. At ‘the Junction’, a track heads left into the Buckler Burn ­towards Mt McIntosh. Stay on the Judah Track.

After another 40 minutes, at a signposted junction, a track branches off to Jean Hut (where you will return from later). Continue up the narrowing Judah Track for 20 minutes to where it intercepts Bonnie Jean Creek. Here, take a short 2-minute side trip up to one of the historic huts - Boozer - named after a miner with a fondness for liquor. Across the creek, the track zigzags for a further 10 minutes up to the site of the Bonnie Jean mine and hut (day-use only). Inside, much of the miners’ machinery and tools remain, displayed as an onsite museum.

Grade: Medium–Hard Total walking time: 6–8 hours Access: From Queenstown, drive for nearly an hour along the Glenorchy– Queenstown Road to Wyuna, 3km before reaching Glenorchy. At the carpark, there are toilets, information panels and a small shelter. Keep to the track, which crosses private farmland at first.

Alternative route: Another full day could be spent exploring the huts using the McIntosh Loop Track.

Bonnie Jean Hut to Heather Jock Hut (3 bunks): 40–60 minutes

Heather Jock Hut to Jean Hut: 60–90 minutes

From Bonnie Jean Hut, the track climbs stiffly, then begins a more gentle sidle, rising to finally reach the 15-minute side-track leading to the top hut in the valley - Heather Jock. This has a fine perch at 1320m with an expansive vista over the Buckler Burn and the Richardson Mountains, with the more distant Mt Earnslaw/Pikirakatahi beyond. Trampers with overnight gear can stay here, and there’s a tank for water.

From Heather Jock Hut, head back to the last track junction, and then head right (north) in the direction of Jean Hut. The track, marked by poles, makes a series of zigzags down the steep hillside, dropping more than 400m quickly to reach the historic Jean Hut, which was built during the First World War. This small, dark hut has the curious ­feature of large rocks, hanging either side of the hut by cables, as a crude but effective

way of securing the roof against the worst winds. From Jean Hut, a short 10-minute track links back with the main Judah Track, from where it’s a downhill plod back on your inward route.

En route, you might like to visit the ­remains of the State Mine, the oldest and longest-worked of all the scheelite mines.

It was called the State Mine because the government ran it to ensure tungsten supply for the British effort during the Second World War, when production of scheelite ore peaked.

21

Sand dunes at Cape Reinga

TE PAKI COASTAL TRACK, CAPE REINGA/TE RERENGA WAIRUA

Cape Reinga/Te Rerenga Wairua is a place of surreal beauty, of rippled sand dunes, craggy headlands and even craggier pōhutukawa, offshore islands, a place where nature holds sway and two oceans converge, sometimes violently. Between five and two million years ago, the area consisted of islands, but in the past million years huge quantities of sand, deposited by oceanic currents, created a connection with the mainland. Now, only the islands around Cape Maria van Diemen remain separated.

The cape is of immense importance to Māori, who know it as Te Rerenga Wairua, or the leaping place of the spirits. Here, souls of the deceased depart Aotearoa to begin their long journey back to the ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.

Contrary to popular opinion, Cape Reinga is not the northernmost tip of New Zealand’s mainland; that title belongs to Hikurua/de Surville Cliffs of Otou/North Cape, which lies to the east and a full 2km closer to the equator.

While most of the hundreds of thousands of people who visit the cape are 22 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

Cape Reinga/Te Renenga Wairua is a place of surreal beauty, of rippled sand dunes, craggy headlands and even craggier pōhutukawa

content to wander the short sealed path to the lighthouse and gaze over the turbulent waters at the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean, more adventurous walkers will find a rewarding loop track to Cape Maria van Diemen and Paengarēhia/Twilight Beach. The route crosses some of New Zealand’s most distinctive and expansive coastal scenery.

It is also the start of a 3000km-long journey for trampers setting off to walk the length of the country on Te Araroa, New Zealand’s Trail.

Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van Diemen turnoff: 2–2.5 hours

Branching off the path to the lighthouse, a well-benched track descends for 30 minutes beside coastal cliffs to the long

sweep of Te Werahi Beach. After following the coast southwards for 45–60 minutes, the track reaches a junction with the northern part of the Twilight–Te Werahi Loop Track (a possible exit route to Cape Reinga Road).

After crossing Te Werahi Stream (sometimes impassable above mid-tide), Te Paki Coastal Track heads inland up grassy slopes to colourful dunes beyond, dominated by the native sand grasses, pīngao and spinifex. A gentle climb leads over the flanks of Herangi Hill (159m) to a signposted track junction, which offers fine views of Cape Maria van Diemen and its offshore islands. On a clear day the 90-minute return side-track leading to the cape is well worthwhile.

Cape Maria van Diemen turnoff to Twilight Beach and Cape Reinga Road: 2.5–3 hours

From the track junction, the main walkway enters coastal shrublands, dominated by prostrate mānuka, traversing a broad ledge above the cliffs of Maungatiketike and Pitokuku points before descending through lupins towards Twilight Beach. From a signposted track

junction, the 5-minute walk to Twilight Beach is worthwhile. Back at the junction, head inland through a vast area of dunes, where there is some curiously charred and eroding rock exposed in places.

Here, large orange squares atop tall poles indicate the route at intervals. A short section of dense lupins leads to a sidle through twisted mānuka forest and out into the open again beside an

extensive wetland in Te Werahi Valley.

The track crosses a narrow neck of the raupō-dominated wetland on a boardwalk to a final mānuka stand before reaching farmland. Across a stile, poles lead up grassy slopes to a farm ridge, which is followed to Te Werahi Gate on Cape Reinga Road. Walkers can choose to walk the 4.5km of road back to the cape or prearrange a shuttle pick-up.

Grade: Easy–Medium Total walking time: 4.5–5.5 hours return (excluding the 90-minute side trip to Cape Maria van Diemen and the section of road between Te Werahi Gate and Cape Reinga) Access: From Kaitaia take SH1 north as far as it goes. Allow 90 minutes’ drive for the 111km section of road, which was sealed all the way in 2010.

Near the cape is a car park, toilets and information panels.

Alternative routes: Walkers can begin from the Cape Reinga Road on the northern section of the Twilight–Te Werahi Loop Track, which descends directly to Te Werahi Beach without passing the section at Cape Reinga. Another shorter alternative is a return trip from Cape Reinga to Cape Maria van Diemen.

East of Cape Reinga, a pleasant walk leads to Tapotupotu Bay and a car park and campsite there (allow 90 minutes each way). Further south, off Cape Reinga Road, the enormous sand dunes at Te Paki are also a rewarding visit.

23

Anapai Bay to Separation Point: 1.5 hours

After departing Anapai Bay, the track skirts more beaches and rocky headlands to reach the Mutton Cove campsite in 30 minutes.

Here, the main Abel Tasman Coast Track heads inland towards Whariwharangi Bay. Ignore this, and instead take the track heading north, which climbs briefly around one headland then follows the Mutton Cove shoreline.

At the north end of the beach, the track climbs through forest dominated by kānuka up to the ridgeline. At a signposted junction, take the track to Separation Point.

Shortly beyond, a viewing area offers a vista of the headland and its small automated lighthouse. On a rough route, weaving through coastal flax, it’s possible to scramble down to the point. Kekeno, mainly adult males or juveniles, migrate here from other breeding colonies to overwinter.

A few stragglers sometimes remain during summer. Avoid approaching the seals too closely. In contrast, you can confront the local gannets; they are made of concrete in an unsuccessful attempt (so far) to attract real feathered ones to the site. 

Separation Point

TŌTARANUI TO SEPARATION POINT, ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK

The Abel Tasman coastline is famous for its coarse golden sands, granite headlands and favourable climate. Separation Point, the northernmost headland of the national park, marks the boundary between Golden and Tasman bays, and makes an excellent objective for a day walk, with access on a quieter section of the very popular Abel Tasman Coast Track.

As well as fine coastal forest and exquisite beaches, walkers get an opportunity to see kekeno (New Zealand fur seals) and pārekareka (spotted shags).

Although described here beginning at Tōtaranui, Separation Point can be approached via Whariwharangi Bay, from the Wainui entrance of the park. Tōtaranui, a popular beach and campground in the park’s north, is 24 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

reached by car, bus or water taxi.

Walkers can expect to see pīwakawaka (fantail), korimako (bellbird) and the ever-entertaining weka – which will skive off with your lunch if you’re not watchful.

Unfortunately, ­during the summer and autumn, wasps proliferate in the park, so those allergic to stings should carry suitable medication.

Tōtaranui to Anapai Bay: 1 hour

From Tōtaranui, the Abel Tasman Coast Track skirts the estuary on the northern end of Tōtaranui Beach. On the far side of the estuary, the track climbs over a low saddle and down through some of the most verdant forest in Abel Tasman National Park to reach Anapai Bay. With its statuesque granite pillars, Anapai Bay is arguably the finest of all those on the Abel Tasman coastline.

Grade: Medium Total walking time 5–6 hours return Access: From Mārahau catch a water taxi to Tōtaranui. From Takaka, drive over Abel Tasman Drive to the Wainui Inlet, then take Tōtaranui Road. At Tōtaranui there is a large camping area, toilets and an information shelter.

Alternative route: From Separation Point, energetic walkers could return to Tōtaranui via Whariwharangi Bay and the Gibbs Hill Track. This would take a full day of 7–8 hours.

Alternatively, approaching Separation Point from the park’s Wainui entrance, and walking via Whariwharangi Hut, will take 6 hours return.

Find more short walking tracks in Day Walks in New Zealand by Shaun Barnett, available now from good book sellers.

Published by Potton & Burton.

RRP $49.99.

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EXPLORE | WAIHĪ

WONDERFUL WAIHI

Waihī Beach

26 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

IMAGES BY CHEREE MORRISON / DESTINATION COROMANDEL / GERHARD EGGAR - PHOTONEWZEALAND/ TRACIE HEASMAN

The Insider’s Guide to New Zealand editor Cheree Morrison shares some of Waihī’s best places to visit, eat, and stay

Orokawa Bay

W

aihī is, quite literally, built on and by hard work. Approximately 175km of mining tunnels burrow beneath the earth, following a pattern of quartz and chasing its glittering promise. Waihī markets itself as New Zealand’s Heart of Gold - and it’s true.

It was built by the goldmining industry, and mining remains the area’s largest employer. Blood, sweat and tears formed the foundation of the area; life was tough for the 6500 miners and their families who lived here during the gold rush of 1911. That is almost 2000 more people than the present population and three times larger than Hamilton at the time.

But Waihī has a lot more going for it than the extraction of gold.

The town is surrounded by bush, beaches and beautiful landscapes, giving outdoorsy types an entire guidebook’s worth of walks, biking paths and hiking trails from which to choose. Like many other small towns, new faces and returning families bring fresh ideas and new businesses. There’s rejuvenation in the air fuelled, in part, by the cycle trail and partially by proud locals being the gatekeepers and storytellers of the region’s history.

WAIHĪ BEACH

Waihī Beach is 11 minutes and 11km from Waihī and a quintessential New Zealand beach with sweeping white sand shores and a swell that swerves from millpond to monster depending on mood.

Embracing the cruisy coastal attitude, the only dilemma beachgoers face is to swim then nap, or nap and then swim. Ahh decisions…

The name Waihī was bestowed on the beach first and the town later. Legend has it that a Māori traveller knelt to drink from a shallow creek, and when he made a hole in the earth, fresh water continued to rise and fill the hole. Hence ‘Waihī’, or rising water.

The name proved to be prophetic in the late 1800s when goldmining efforts at Waihī Beach were continually hindered by high water flooding the mines and protecting gold from the hungry eyes of prospectors.

Waihī Beach was originally an area of respite for miners plagued by respiratory issues caused by damp and dust. They were sent to the beach for rehabilitation, the success of which was dubious. Some of their baches built at the northern end remain, though now dwarfed by larger, flashier neighbours.

By the 1930s, the beach had become a popular tourism destination with dance

halls and a movie theatre. It was a sunseeker’s paradise, and has remained so today, though much has also changed.

The cinema is no longer, but there are boutique stores, several cafés, an art gallery and a decent Four Square.

Despite the rejuvenation and being only 2 hours from Auckland, 50 minutes from Tauranga and 90 minutes from Hamilton, the beach has kept its laid-back vibe.

The northern end of Waihī Beach is the most popular swimming location, with the Surf Club monitoring the swell during the summer season. Most of the stores are in the small village located on Wilson Road (turn right at the roundabout on Waihī Beach Road) but there’s also the village of Bowentown at the southern end of the beach. Bowentown, once a volcanic island and now joined to the mainland by a sandy arm, is a section of Waihī Beach rich with Māori history thought to date back to 1300. There are four prominent pā sites near the shoreline and a large number of artefacts have been discovered along the beach, including greenstone and ancient burial grounds.

One 1960s journal estimated 15,000 Māori once occupied the area - though that number is unable to be verified.

27

The Waterlily Gardens

OROKAWA BAY

WATERLILY GARDENS

Once the 8km of Waihī Beach has been explored, head over the hill. Not so far away, Orokawa Bay is tucked around the northern headland and is accessible via a 1.3km walking track. The beach isn’t the safest swimming spot but it’s extremely pretty, with gnarled pōhutukawa trees, white sand and thundering waves. Pack a picnic, or bring a good book - the beach is often deserted and is a good retreat from the buzzing summer atmosphere of Waihī Beach. The track isn’t difficult but can be muddy and steep in places and may not be accessible at high tide. The track entrance is signposted at the north end of Waihī Beach.

Hidden behind Waihī is a garden maze of delights, with something to admire at the end of every path - thick bush, a lily nursery, a secret fernery, a still lake, a trickling stream that burbles into a gentle waterfall. The Waihī Waterlily Gardens were created from farmland in 1946, and farmers-turned-botanists Tom and Mabel Gordon imported their first waterlily in 1950. Now the gardens cover 6ha, with 30 varieties of waterlily growing across 30 ponds, and a café, wedding venue, accommodation and garden tours on site.

Auckland-based couple Rachael and Evan Pride’s enthusiasm for city life had slowly dimmed and the couple had just signed a lease in Tūākau when Rachael’s aunt invited her to visit the gardens where she worked. It was love, and in 2018, they took over from previous owners Bevan and Jenny McDuff.

The majority of the year has been spent knee deep in ponds, learning lily varieties and how to care for them, and becoming skilled at hosting weddings, in between renovating the café and keeping an eye on their young children. The gardens are open to the public daily (entry via donation) and the café at weekends (closed during

WAIHĪ BEACH TRIG WALK

This fairly new walk is popular with exercise enthusiasts keen to clock up some steps - take that as a warning.

There are quite a few stairs on this track, but the views are worth the panting and puffing. There are two options - a short loop track around the water reservoir, or the longer (3.5km) walk to the top of the hill. Turn left at the top of Pacific Road, off Beach Road; parking is in the water reservoir car park.

28 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

winter). The water lilies bloom from September to March, give or take, but the gardens are beautiful year-round.

441 Pukekauri Road, Waihī.

(07) 214 8188, waterlily.co.nz WAIHĪ BEACH GALLERY

Andrew Graham is generally found in the Waihī Beach Art Gallery selling art, framing art, chatting about art or, when needed, making great coffee. It keeps him out of mischief, he says, but the truth runs a little deeper. Andrew always knew Waihī Beach was the place to be, so when a small retail space became available, he began the plans for the gallery.

It was a lucky twist of fate that saw the leased space double in size shortly before opening - lucky as the art sourced by curator Ana Couper barely fits as it is.

“She chooses pieces that jump out at her. All are from New Zealand-based artists making unique things, nothing mass produced.” Andrew believes that art should be for everyone, so there’s not only a range of price points, from cards to towering canvases, but the gallery offers lay-by and finance for art-lovers on a budget.

21 Wilson Road, Waihī Beach.

027 22 33 561, waihibeachgallery.com

Waihī Beach Gallery

WAIHĪ ARTS CENTRE AND MUSEUM

Visitors to the Waihī Arts Centre and Museum who love a little gore happily give the collection a thumbs up - or in this case, two severed thumbs up.

Losing a thumb meant receiving £400 in compensation for desperate miners, who used the money to buy a home, pay off debts or invest their earnings back into the local pub. Two such thumbs are on display at the museum, a reminder of just how tough the ‘golden’ days were.

Another exhibit of note (and less

disgusting) is a model showing the layers of mining tunnels and systems below the town. It puts the scale of the operation that lies beneath into perspective - when the thin, cobweb-like veins are layered on perspex, it shows just how complex and extensive the Martha Mine system is.

There are also original jail cells (including one with padded walls) and vintage models of the town, plus an arts centre that displays local works. Come for the thumbs, stay for the charm.

54 Kenny Street, Waihī.

(07) 863 8386, waihimuseum.co.nz

SPIKE’S BRICKS & MODELS

Stewart ‘Spike’ Milligan owns more than one million lego pieces. It’s little wonder then that his collection is housed not in an at-home man-cave or on a few shelves in the spare room, but in a multi-room building in the middle of Waihī. This is Spike’s happy place, where he dedicates his days to sharing his staggering collection with the public.

It was a love that blossomed late in life; dairy and beef farmer Spike purchased a Lego set for his then 4-year-old son, and had a bit of fun putting it together. That model turned into another, and another, and then over 597 more. His 600-strong collection of creations encompasses the best of Legoland.

There are planes, trains and automobiles, a Taj Mahal, a 4000-piece Big Ben and a 6500-piece Hogwarts, plus Lego remotecontrol cars for visitors to race.

It’s a mini-wonderland on a grand scale, and Spike is the infectiously enthusiastic ringleader. His collection has gained value over the years (“If you had invested in gold or Lego 10 years ago, Lego would have made you more”) but that’s not why he does it.

He just loves Lego, plain and simple.

25 Haszard Street, Waihī.

027 451 5706, on Facebook.

Spike’s Bricks & Models

29

The Falls Retreat Bistro

FLATWHITE, WAIHĪ BEACH

The Flatwhite takes the cake for best location in the region. A large renovation in 2015 saw the once-small café transformed into a beachfront dream. Find a seat next to the enormous windows and watch the surf roll in on Waihī Beach. The wine list is extensive, the menu diverse and the pizzas large. Bookings are only available for dinner, but the Flatwhite is also open for breakfast and lunch.

21 Shaw Road, Waihī Beach.

(07) 863 1346, flatwhite.co.nz THE FALLS RETREAT BISTRO

The moment that Brad and Emma King saw the property, they knew they wanted to buy it. The then-Goose Farm Tearooms offered everything they’d dreamt of room for their young family, a change of lifestyle, a restaurant for Brad, and accommodation. It almost all worked out. “But there’s no lifestyle now”, laughs Emma, “we never thought it would reach the level it has.”

Under Brad’s award-winning expertise, the Falls Retreat Bistro has become one of the region’s most revered eateries, and 30 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

not only because of the dishes crafted in the kitchen. The team is also recognised for its environmental efforts and paddockto-plate ethos. “Brad has a special gift, and great food shouldn’t be exclusive. The bistro is warm and friendly and dogs and children are more than welcome. Good dishes are created from good ingredients, and we grow what we deliver on the plate.”

The veggie garden isn’t only for the benefit of the diners, the Kings also hold workshops on cooking and fermenting for the wider community, whom they credit in part for their success. “The community has been so supportive, and is full of creative people and ideas. We run Barter at the Bistro - locals bring in any excess produce and we exchange it for a meal. We love being able to serve them dishes made from their gardens.”

The bistro is open for lunch and dinner Wednesday to Sunday. The menu changes with the seasons and reflects the best seasonal produce, and diners can choose from a light meal to a full dining experience, or enjoy one of The Falls’ famous wood-fired pizzas. The bistro is

Flatwhite Waihī Beach

located just up the hill from the Owharoa Falls and the Victoria Battery, making it an excellent stop for Rail Trail riders.

25 Waitawheta Road, Waihī.

(07) 863 8770, fallsretreat.co.nz CHEZ MOI, THE SWISS CHOCOLATE SHOP

Tucked away at the back of the Waihī Beach shops is a petite chocolate-scented store. Like the truffles handmade inside, Chez Moi is small and perfectly formed, created with love and best shared with friends (that’s a lie, don’t share the truffles). Ines Pins is Swiss, but fell in love with Waihī Beach during a backpacking holiday. After many return visits, it made sense to simply stay, and so she did. The trained baker, pastry chef and chocolatier opened Chez Moi in 2016, much to the

delight of locals - she quickly won over the small community by using passers-by as chocolate taste-testers.

Ines makes everything herself, including the wrapping paper for her chocolate blocks and the light fixture in the store.

Her chocolate comes from Callebaut in Belgium, but the magic happens in her little shop. That’s where she turns chocolate into miniature masterpieces - delicate roses in truffle-filled flower pots, planes, trains and automobiles, baby carriages and Christmas trees. Her truffles are crafted with only the best seasonal produce (hazelnuts from Athenree, fresh figs, local limes) and Lewis Road Creamery cream.

Unit 1/29 Wilson Road, Waihī Beach.

027 372 4093, chezmoichocolate.com

THE SECRET GARDEN

Give or take a few kilometres, there’s approximately 7000km between Bali and Waihī Beach. If that distance is daunting, the Secret Garden is here to provide a little tropical sanctuary without boarding a plane or packing a suitcase. Owner Jayne Jolly has turned one the village’s original baches into a multifaceted Balineseinspired store, eatery and garden. Start at Shipshape - a homeware and clothing boutique with a range of New Zealand designers and thoughtfully sourced brands.

With bags in hand, head inside the garden to The Pod, which serves takeaway Allpress coffee, smoothies and freshly baked goods (ask about the Portuguese egg tarts). Tables are tucked away in the tropical garden, with large palms hiding other shopping nooks. During summer there is live music and small events.

17 Wilson Road, Waihī Beach. (07) 863 5155, secretgardenwaihibeach.co.nz

Ines’ chocolate comes from Callebaut in Belgium, but the magic happens in her little shop. That’s where she turns chocolate into miniature masterpieces

The Secret Garden

Chez Moi

31

Bowentown Beach Holiday Park & Campground

WAIHĪ BEACH TOP 10 HOLIDAY PARK

Just minutes’ walk from Orokawa Scenic reserve, the Waihī Beach Top 10 is set on five acres of native gardens.

Accommodation options include powered sites through to motel units.

And while it looks and sounds like a campground, there are a few key differences that set this site apart. If underfloor heating in the toilet blocks isn’t enough, how about a heated swimming pool? Kids playroom with air hockey? Beachfront campsites? There are strong environmental practices being implemented here, including watersaving strategies.

15 Beach Road, Waihī Beach.

0800 924 448, waihibeachtop10.co.nz BOWENTOWN BEACH HOLIDAY PARK & CAMPGROUND

With a beachfront location as good as this, it would be easy for the 32 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

With a beachfront location as good as this, it would be easy for the Bowentown Beach Holiday Park to rest up and let the views do the hard work

Bowentown Beach Holiday Park to rest up and let the views do the hard work. Not so - there’s a lot going on at this long-running campground, with campsites galore, motel rooms, selfcontained cabins and even a couple of Kombi vans. Located on the edge of the Bowentown Domain, the additional playground of Anzac Bay is around the corner as is the excellent view from the top of the pā at Bowentown Heads.  510 Seaforth Road, Waihī Beach.

(07) 863 5381, bowentown.co.nz

Extracted from the 2019 issue of The Insider’s Guide to New Zealand.

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EXPLORE | TUTUKĀKĀ COAST

Matapouri village

Whale Bay

EXPLORING THE TUTUKAKA COAST Heather Whelan explores Northland’s Tutukākā coastline, soaking up the local history and discovering many excellent places to eat, park and sightsee

A

towering kauri tree is not what you expect to find on the Tutukākā Coast, more famous for its beaches and diving at the Poor Knights Marine Reserve. Tanē Moana was once a wellguarded local secret but, since the development of the Te Araroa Trail, access has become easy. There’s a small parking space on Waiotoi Road and a sign that shows the start of the walkway.

The track takes walkers 7km from Ngunguru, past Tanē Moana and on to Matapouri. But if you stroll to the kauri and back, it takes about two hours, 34 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

including time admiring the massive tree.

Tanē Moana is named for Tanē, the god of the forest, and moana, the sea.

It is the only large kauri standing on Northland’s east coast and is more than 11m in circumference.

A plaque commemorates the tree’s naming and the conservation work of locals, Forest & Bird and DOC. Part of the inscription says, “Tanē Moana proclaims our loss and determines us to preserve.”

Seeing just the one giant, where once there were so many, made me realise how different the landscape here once was.

A COASTAL PARADISE

The village of Ngunguru is quiet for most of the year but comes alive over the summer as holidaymakers enjoy the calm waters of the estuary. Children splash in the shallows, families swim, kayakers and paddleboarders head up the river and

boaties turn for the open ocean. The store does a roaring trade in ice cream, the takeaway bar features fresh fish of the day, and the Salt Air Café is recommended for coffee or lunch. At low tide, you can walk round to Whangaumu Bay (also known as Wellington’s Bay), one of the prettiest beaches on the coast and, for the more energetic, there’s a cycle trail, the Old Coach Road, that loops through the countryside.

GATEWAY TO POOR KNIGHTS ISLAND

Just over the hill from Ngunguru, Tutukākā Marina lies in the protected waters at the head of the harbour, almost enclosed by hills and headlands to the north and south. Home to local boats and visiting yachts, the marina also has diving- and fishing-charter boats for hire. Schnappa Rock Restaurant, with its thatched fale-style roof, is a great place

To get a different view of Tutukākā Harbour, or to stretch your legs after enjoying the town’s eateries, there’s a walking track to the lighthouse on Kukutauwhao Island

to watch the world go by, but there is a choice of cafés and dining at Tutukākā, including the Marina Pizza Bar and the Deep Sea Anglers Club. At the Oceans Resort on Marina Road, there’s a hotel, specialty shops and galleries to browse. I particularly love the art of Steve Moase, whose detailed work records local scenes.

To get a different view of Tutukākā Harbour, or to stretch your legs after enjoying the town’s eateries, there’s a walking track to the lighthouse on Kukutauwhao Island, accessible at low tide from Tutukākā Head. The route starts at a car park on Landowners Lane and takes you along the headland, then down steep steps, before crossing to the island. There’s a beachy area between the headland and the island, with rock pools and tiny sandy coves to explore. The island is cloaked in native bush, but the area around the lighthouse is open, providing views out to the Poor Knights, along the coast and inland past the marina.

Tutukākā Lighthouse walk

IMAGES BY HEATHER WHELAN

HIDDEN DELIGHTS

There are so many pretty bays here that visitors are spoiled for choice. Tutukākā Block Road leads past Church Bay and Kowharewa Bay - inside the Tutukākā Harbour - before arriving at Whangaumu Bay at the entrance to the Ngunguru Estuary. All these bays are suitable for swimming because they are protected from the ocean swells. There’s more scope for kayakers to explore, as many of the bays don’t have road access. Ngunguru and Matapouri also have rivers to investigate behind the sand spits.

A couple of kilometres north from Tutukākā, there’s a sign for Sailfish Cove Winery. North Gable Way wends along a ridge and then dips down to the winery, its vineyards stretching almost to the cliff edge itself. During the summer, the vineyard is open for tastings and sales; its shady deck is a great place for a drink after enjoying an afternoon at the beach.

The entrance to Tutukākā Harbour

35

Marina Pizza at Tutukākā Marina

Tawāpou Coastal Natives, a wholesale plant nursery, is just a little further along the road to Matapouri. If you follow the long twisty drive, you’ll arrive at a little shop and café. We loved the interesting wooden sculptures, crafted by Tawāpou owner, Guy Bowden. The timber came from an old pier at Tutukākā and old pūriri logs from the property. Guy says on his website that pūriri used to grow so thickly along the coast there was a tree suitable for milling every 20m. It was heartening to hear that there are community planting days on the covenanted land at Tawāpou. The Bowdens are big supporters of local ecology and aim to provide a coastal corridor for flora and fauna from the Poor Knights Islands.

GOLDEN BEACHES

The Hunt sculpture at Tawāpou

36 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

Matapouri is just past Tawāpou and is a popular spot for campers over the summer. It has one of those typical little beach stores that sells everything and a noticeboard that promotes the local yoga classes and community events.

I couldn’t resist buying a calendar featuring colourful local scenes painted

by Matapouri local Jovian Parry.

Matapouri’s curving beach has white sand and the water is usually calm so it’s a favourite with families, though a big

easterly swell can cause rips. Another lovely walk starts at Matapouri Bay and goes to Whale Bay. (Lonely Planet describes both beaches as among the best in New Zealand.) There’s a shorter track to Whale Bay from the road, but the walk has fantastic views and passes through a variety of scenery. From a lookout on the cliffs, you’ll see the Poor Knights Islands, while Whale Bay itself has views up the coast past Woolleys Bay to Sandy Bay and beyond.

Māori used Whale Bay as a base for early whaling missions, but nowadays nowhere could be more peaceful. When swimming or snorkelling from the beach, I’ve enjoyed looking up at the surrounding bush that is bright with yellow kōwhai flowers in spring and red with pōhutukawa blossom in summer. Those same trees give great shade on hot days. From Whale Bay, the track loops inland along a ridge and then through farmland back to Matapouri.

Kōwhai flowering on the track to Whale Bay

Next along the coast is Woolleys Bay a quieter spot where we enjoyed freedom camping. It’s close to the surfing Mecca of Sandy Bay, so it has quite a swell at times but, when calm, it is good for children learning to boogie board. It is also particularly lovely to stroll along before sunset on summer evenings.

The water at Sandy Bay is always full of wet-suited bodies. When the surf is big, it’s fun to watch the experts ride the waves

SURFERS’ PARADISE AND STUNNING SCENERY

The water at Sandy Bay is always full of wet-suited bodies. When the surf is big, it’s fun to watch the experts ride the waves. The road turns away from the coast here and makes its way back to SH1 at Hikurangi.

Sandy Bay is also the start of an extended (12km return) walk along the coast to Whananāki. It takes about six hours, including a side trip to the Capitaine Bougainville monument, which commemorates a shipwreck that occurred in 1975 leading to the loss of 16 lives.

The walk from Sandy Bay to Whananāki

37

Whangaumu (Wellington’s) Bay

It’s also worth continuing across the footbridge into Whananāki for ice cream or a cold drink before making the return trip, especially on a hot day.

All in all, the Tutukākā Coast has more to see and do than a drive-through might suggest. It’s a great place to stay for a while and explore. 

FURTHER INFORMATION • Information about most of the things to do and see on the Tutukākā Coast can be found at tutukakacoastnz.com • More about Tawāpou can be found at tawapou.co.nz, and the website for Sailfish Cove Wines is sailfishcove.co.nz

A café at Tawāpou

• There is a holiday park at Tutukākā, on Matapouri Road, almost opposite the turn into the marina. There is a dump station here for park-users. There are three places for NZMCA members to stay in Ngunguru and a campervan park at 24 Munro Place, Ngunguru.

• Freedom camping is allowed at Kowharewa Bay, Ngunguru Library and the Wehiwehi Road car park at Matapouri, maximum three-night stay. There’s a one-night limit at Woolleys and Sandy Bays. Information about freedom camping in the area is available in brochures locally and from wdc.govt.nz

38 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

Matapouri Estuary

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EXPLORE | AUSTRALIA’S GOLD COAST

The Tweed River winding its way to the ocean

CRUISING THE CALDERA Jill Malcolm visits the hinterland of Australia’s Gold Coast and finds jacarandas in full bloom, Lord of the Rings-worthy landscapes, and the occasional ageing hippy

L

ike a tiny dinosaur, a lizard rose up on its hind legs and ran for its life across the road. A short distance further on, a small grey wallaby bounced away out of danger, and flying foxes darted past the windscreen so close we instinctively ducked.

At night, the hinterland of the Australian Gold Coast is a lively place.

Thousands of New Zealanders can’t be wrong - the coast is an excellent spot for a sunny sojourn - but if you tire of the beaches, the hoopla and the shopping, head for the hills of the hinterland. They are not far away and if you can do this in a motorhome so much the better.

40 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

BLUFFS AND BUTTRESSES

Nightcap and Lamington in Queensland.

It a surprise to anyone whose image of Australia is of a flat and sunburnt land that this large area straddling the border between Queensland and New South Wales is a collection of bluffs and buttresses encircling the biggest erosion caldera (collapsed volcanic crater) in the Southern Hemisphere. The edges of the soaring slopes that make up this volcanic rim drop 1000m to the basin - the caldera - that is the Tweed Valley, and they are covered in the most extensive array of subtropical rainforests left on Earth. The area has been divided into the vast national parks of Border Ranges, Springbrook,

A LIFETIME OF EXPLORATION

You could spend a lifetime in this area and never fully explore it. On a 10-day visit, it was a matter of pick and choose. One gateway to caldera country is the small town of Murwillumbah. Just half an hour’s drive from Coolangatta, it cleaves to the banks of the Tweed River and is surrounded by the sugarcane fields of the Northern Rivers district of New South Wales.

We booked into the Greenhills camping ground on the outskirts of town, which is a basic but convenient spot from which to explore. Murwillumbah has survived

“Tacked to the communal notice board in Uki were invitations to join the ‘loose groove’ drumming vessels, a moon ‘gong bath’ or a session of ‘open-flow ecstatic dance’”

Flutterbies, Tyalgum

devastating fires, floods and Australia’s largest bank robbery (1978).

IMAGES BY JILL MALCOLM

ECCENTRIC LIVES

Today the town is best known for a significant modern art gallery, which houses works from throughout Australia and explores the connection in art and life between Fred Jessup and Margaret Olley.

Both were notable Australian artists who shared their lives and an obsession for still-life paintings. Margaret was strikingly eccentric and her extraordinary home, crammed with the subjects of her art, has been reconstructed in the gallery exactly as it was the day she died.

There is also plenty of eccentricity in the villages of the caldera. It has more offspring of the hippie culture than anywhere else in Australia. The movement was spawned by a counterculture festival held in the village of Nimbin in the 1970s, after which thousands of freespirited idealists leapt into their Kombis

and headed for the coast and the lush hinterland of northern New South Wales to set up their versions of Utopia.

Some of these communities still survive, boosted by the bohemians who decamped from Byron Bay as it became infiltrated by celebrities and cashed-up city-slickers.

In the tiny hill village of Tyalgum, for instance, are the communes of the Hermes and the Water People. Try to find out about them, and the only answers are beatific but zippered smiles.

Hippie hangovers in the caldera villages of Uki, Tyalgum, Chillingham, Nimbin and Mullumbimby still linger, evidenced by whiffs of incense, musty book shops, organic vegetables and rag-tag collections of second- (or third-) hand clothing, crystals and collectibles.

Tacked to the communal notice board in Uki were invitations to join the ‘loose groove’ drumming vessels, a moon ‘gong bath’ or a session of ‘open-flow ecstatic dance’. As if to underpin these images,

Forested ravines radiate down from the volcanic rim in the Limpinwood Valley, which is named for a long-forgotten amputee

down the footpath came a tall figure in a sweeping coat of purple and pink. He had a long grey Father Time beard. The rest of his hair was pulled back in a knot at the back of his head, and he viewed the world, quite literally, through rose-coloured spectacles.

CHANGES AHEAD

With the gradual pull of tourism, I fear that the zany character of these scattered hamlets will soon change. In the rumpled little village of Tyalgum, for example, it was quite a shock to discover behind a flossy café called Flutterbies a ‘marketta’ of little lanes and outlets containing the sort of flotsam you might find in a Brisbane bazaar. And there in the main street was a genuine gelato ice-cream bar run by an Italian man and only open at the weekend.

Uki has the smart new Mount Warning pub built along traditional lines to replace the old one that burnt down.

41

The mountainous rim of an ancient volcano is covered by one of the largest arrays of rainforest left on Earth

ROADS OF DISCOVERY

Linking these haunts is a network of tortuous narrow roads, which means driving is as good as arriving. Fluffy camphor laurel trees and smooth-trunked eucalypts cram the edges and form shady tunnels of foliage.

Bean trees are festooned with long black pods hanging like deflated balloons, and jacarandas in full bloom add splashes of electric blue.

Slap bang in the middle of the caldera, and seen from almost every angle, a 1156m-high volcanic plug looms like a wagging finger. Captain Cook spotted it from his ship in 1770 and called it Mount Warning to alert future navigators of the offshore reefs he was encountering off the coast. The local Bundjalung people call it Wollumbin (cloud catcher), and as the current drought in the caldera 42 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

worsens, inhabitants are praying it will be faithful to its name.

For the Bundjalung people, the mountain is a spiritual force. As happened around the recently closed Uluru, Aboriginal leaders are clamouring for tourists to stop defiling this hallowed ground by climbing to its summit.

I needed no persuading. Apart from respect for ancient lore, it is an arduous three-hour climb. Campers, RVers and others intent on clambering up the massif spend the night in the well-appointed Mt Warning Rainforest Park in the foothills.

Mount Wollumbin is the first spot in Australia to greet the sun, and a popular ritual is to be on the peak by dawn.

Even for sybarites, the mountain is an inescapable presence. From roads, laybys, shopping centres and camping grounds all around the caldera, its protruding profile catches the eye.

A painting by renowned still-life artist Fred Jessup

Also eye-catching is the alternative drive back to the Gold Coast over mountain ridges as spectacular as film sets for The Lord of the Rings. The border between NSW and Queensland is defined by the edge of the caldera escarpment. Eventually, the road descends through the farmland and green pastures of the Numinbah Valley.

If there is time, follow any track into the rainforest’s embrace and find yourself in another world. Gigantic vines loop and tangle through towering trees and a myriad of leaf shapes and shadows close in and cut off the outside. Countless ferns and foliage drip down from heavy boughs to meet the jungle floor in an intricate embroidery of contrasting greens.

Back on the Gold Coast, the sophisticated buildings and man-made trappings seem diminished by comparison 

EXPLORE | TAUPŌ

5 FREE & CHEAP THINGS TO DO IN TAUPO Heather Whelan leaves her wallet at home to explore some of Taupō’s great inexpensive attractions

Whakarewa Point

44 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

Nothing beats just strolling along Taupō’s waterfront admiring the lake.

On a clear day, the views of the distant mountains complete the picture: they are often snow-topped. The shared walkway that goes alongside the lake as far as Waitahanui at Five Mile Bay is called the Lions Walk. We cycled the route (voted New Zealand’s favourite urban ride a couple of years ago) almost as far as Waitahanui, stopping to test the water temperature (hot) near the Taharepa Reserve, and on past the Two Mile Bay Sailing Club.

From here, the track takes you beside sheltered bays where you get the same fabulous scenery as the folk in the big holiday homes. There’s freedom camping for self-contained vehicles at Waitahanui and, from there, it would be an easy, mostly flat ride into town.

Another great cycle ride is from Huka Falls to the Aratiatia Dam. Huka Falls is well known, and deservedly so. At the falls, the mighty Waikato River narrows sending a mass of water gushing down the 11m drop at the rate of 220,000 litres per second. It’s awe-inspiring to

stand and admire the power of nature.

The Huka Falls Loop is a grade 2–3 ride, so it’s slightly harder than the Lions Walkway but well worth doing. We started from the Hub Café (with the helicopter outside) and, after fortifying ourselves with morning tea, set off on the cycle trail.

The first part of the track takes riders through regenerating forest beside the Waikato River to the dam. From here, the route loops to the opposite side of the river, then back to Taupō through impressive scenery, including the steamy area around Wairakei. In one place, we came to a narrow, sulphurous-looking and scorching stream that we cycled beside for a while. The loop is almost 17kms in length, so when you’re finished, head back to the Hub for lunch and a long, cold drink.

2. RAGING RAPIDS

Four times a day during the summer months the Aratiatia Dam gates open for 15 minutes, filling the ravine below with surging white water. Since the gates were firmly closed when we cycled past on the loop ride, we made another visit to check out the spectacle.

Taupō’s full Māori name is Taupō-nui-aTia, which means the 'great cloak of Tia'.

Taupō's full Māori name is Taupō-nui-a-Tia, which means the 'great cloak of Tia'

Tia was the discoverer of the area, and the ravine below the Aratiatia Dam is also named after him. Aratiatia translates as the ‘stairway of Tia’. When we got to the viewing platform downstream from the dam, the rocks in the narrow gully were fully exposed, and there were only puddles of water in small pools at the low points.

A warning siren sounded before the gates opened, then gradually the ravine began to fill with thousands of litres of water. First, the water rose almost imperceptibly before rocks started to disappear below the surface. As more water rushed down the channel, it began to churn and seethe, until eventually all the rocks and the cliff sides that had been above water just minutes before were hidden beneath the rushing current.

Unlike the Huka Falls, where the rate of water crashing past is constant, the rising water of the Aratiatia ravine was strangely different: a unique experience.

IMAGES BY HEATHER WHELAN/LOVETAUPO.COM

1. WALKING AND CYCLING

Water rushes from the Aratiatia Dam

45

Wairakei Terraces

3. HOT WATER

Taupō’s geothermal nature means the area is alive with hot water and steam. Being great fans of heated pools, we always head for a soak when we’re in Taupō. Perhaps the most famous of Taupō’s spa resorts is DeBretts, where visitors have been taking the waters for more than 100 years.

The early rustic, stream-fed pools were first upgraded in 1958, and continuous improvements have produced today’s complex with its outdoor mineral and spa pools, plus indoor pools and treatment rooms. There is a camping area, and RVs are welcome.

Up the road at Wairakei, there’s a different hot pool experience. Where DeBretts caters for families, the Wairakei Terraces are a thermal experience for adults only. The pools sit below silica terraces and a waterfall, creating an ambience that recalls the famous pink and white terraces. There are no waterslides or giant mushroom showers here - all is peaceful and calm, the only sounds are bird calls and the gently flowing water.

46 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

But for free hot soaks in Taupō head to Spa Park. In the past, bathers just found an excellent spot to soak in the Otumuheke Stream, but in 2018 the area received an upgrade, and there are now changing rooms, toilets, seating and signboards explaining the history of the area. You can relax in natural rock pools while taking in views of the Waikato River.

STEAMY LANDSCAPES

The Craters of the Moon are not free to visit, but at only $8 per person, the admission is super-cheap. At this strange attraction, just down the road from the Wairakei Terraces, you can wander around the steamy landscape and gaze at lunar-like craters. Vents disgorge clouds of steam, while the craters plop and bubble with hot mud. We spent over an hour wandering around the area, including taking a path up to a lookout, which gave us great views of the surrounding area. The tracks and boardwalks are well marked to protect the fragile ecosystems and also to safeguard visitors - the landscape changes without warning as new craters are created.

Craters of the Moon

4. BEAUTIFUL BUSH WALKS

There are lots of pretty walks around Taupō, but the best we’ve found are at Opepe, where there are loop walks on both sides of SH5. We started by walking the northern track and were amazed by how many big trees there were in this mature forest. Although it’s so close to the road, we were soon walking through bush that gave us an idea of what New Zealand’s forests were like before so much was lost. At the far point of the loop, we could no longer hear traffic, just birds.

HISTORICAL SURPRISES

A sidetrack took us to a small clearing where we were surprised to see wooden grave markers. A nearby sign explained that there had been an attack by Te Kooti’s forces during the New Zealand Land Wars.

Nine soldiers were killed in the battle and later buried in this spot. It was a peaceful place, and I found it hard to imagine the bloody scene 150 years previously.

There is more history to discover on the

southern track. The scenery is more open because of settlement and development in the days when Opepe was a township, rather than just a name on the map. We saw the remains of a pit-sawing operation dating back to 1869, where timber was cut for telegraph poles, and also the site of a redoubt and a stock-watering trough.

What made this interesting was a long story on the adjacent information board, recounting the tale of a soldier’s escape from Te Kooti’s men.

A man named Cresswell, who was a member of the armed constabulary, was spotted by one of Te Kooti’s scouts.

Cresswell fled naked across the Kaingaroa Plains (in winter), taking two days to reach safety. Years later, while working on the Waioeka Gorge Road, a fellow labourer recognised him. This man had been Te Kooti’s scout and told Cresswell that he’d refrained from shooting him because the sound would have alerted the Constabulary to the whereabouts of Te Kooti’s force.

A man named Cresswell, who was a member of the armed constabulary, was spotted by one of Te Kooti's scouts. Cresswell fled naked across the Kaingaroa Plains (in winter), taking two days to reach safety

Towering bush at Opepe

A historical pit saw at Opepe

Opepe Cemetery

47

Plenty of fun for families

A mosaic living room at L'Arte Café

48 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

More mosaics at L'Arte

5. TOWN AND AROUND

Taupō is full of interesting shops and galleries. If you’re in Taupō over the Queen’s Birthday Weekend, pick up an Art Trail Guide and check out some of the artists and craftspeople who work in the area. Whenever you visit, you can take a walking tour of the downtown streets and admire the many walls adorned with eye-catching murals, created during last year’s Graffiato event.

Lava Glass (where we stopped for lunch after watching the Aratiatia Dam opening) is a fascinating place to visit.

It has a gallery, shop, café and sculpture garden, showcasing the colourful glass art of Lynden Over.

There’s a fee to watch the glass blowing and to enter the sculpture garden, but part of this can be used towards a purchase from the gallery. We were short of time when we visited, so we didn’t spend time in the garden, though we plan to do so next time we’re in Taupō.

However, we did spend ages wandering around and admiring the garden art and sculpture at L’Arté Café and Gallery at Acacia Bay. This place is a wonderland, where the flowers and trees are enhanced by colourful and quirky creations scattered among them. Judi Brennan is the ceramicist here, and her work includes an outside living room created from mosaics. Intricate mosaics are everywhere. There’s a working pottery studio and a shop to browse, where Judi’s ceramics are for sale as well as artworks in a variety of mediums by other artists.

We finally sat down to enjoy coffee and cake in the café, named by Lonely Planet as its No1 café pick for the central North Island. We had spent a great few days in Taupō, enjoying what the town had to offer, and so much of it had been free. I had several other things on my todo list, but they’ll have to wait until next time. Taupō, we’ll be back. 

FURTHER INFORMATION • There are plenty of places to stay in Taupō. The NZMCA has a park at Taupō Airport, there are several holiday parks, and freedom camping is allowed in designated areas in the town centre. There are several DOC campgrounds, including Five Mile Bay, Aratiatia Dam and Reid’s Farm. Details can be found at: taupodc.govt.nz/recreation/ freedom-camping. DeBretts has powered campervan and RV sites.

Information about this and the hot pools is at taupodebretts.co.nz • Information about other places mentioned in the article can be found at cratersofthemoon. co.nz; lavaglass.nz, larte.co.nz; wairakeiterraces.co.nz • The Aratiatia Dam gates open daily at 10am, 12pm, 2pm and 4pm.

Our sentiments exactly

L'Arte Café and Gallery

Funky fish at L'Arte

49

EXPLORE | REWARDS OF THE ROAD

The Urban Winery’s barrel room displaying its oak Taransaud Ovum, one of just a few in the world

THE GOOD EGG

W

orthy old buildings inspire creativity and enterprise, but their survival is only assured if they are re-purposed. So I was pleased to discover over Christmas that the beloved National Tobacco Company building in Ahuriri, Napier, had been refitted to house one of New Zealand’s most exciting wineries.

On my frequent visits back to my old Hawke’s Bay stamping grounds, I’ve kept an eye on this stunning art deco building in the port precinct of Napier.

Originally built and owned by tobacco 50 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

Husheer spared neither time nor expense in having the building rebuilt and, by the end of 1932, stood a magnificent art deco edifice

tycoon Gerhard Husheer, it suffered devastating damage in the 1931 Napier earthquake. But Husheer spared neither time nor expense in having it rebuilt

and, by the end of 1932, on the same spot on the corner of Ossian Street, stood a magnificent art deco edifice embellished with a few art nouveau touches.

Of course, I wasn’t around at that time.

Still, ever since I was old enough to see the value in accomplished architecture, I’ve been a fan of this historic building - its rectangular lines and the arching, lamplined entranceway with brass handrails and intricate motifs of roses, bull rushes and vine leaves. Although it is officially known as the National Tobacco Company Building, we locals always referred to it as

IMAGES BY BILL SAVIDAN

Jill Malcolm shares her latest adventures and experiences from the road

‘The Rothmans’ Building’ as the Pall Mall company owned it from 1956 to 2001.

I was not the only one eyeing this Napier icon. Hawke’s Bay winemaker and entrepreneur Tony Bish had been watching it for about 20 years, and when it came up for lease three years ago he was “in Like Flynn”.

Like Gerhard Husheer nearly 90 years before, Tony, with his wife Karryn, spared little expense in turning the interior space of the old ciggy factory into an attentiongrabbing interior that houses a wine barrel hall, a cellar door, an art gallery, and a bar and restaurant.

I’d never been inside the building before and had no idea of its cavernous spaces. The high walls are painted black or clad in contrasting light timber, and subtle lighting creates warmth and a sophisticated sheen. Comfortable seating is scattered about the hall.

Interesting artwork and a photographic documentation of the old tobacco-making procedures on the walls are dominated by enlarged and captivating images by local photographer Richard Brimmer.

To the left, just through the entrance door, a large glass wall forms a transparent barrier to the barrel room, which is filled with rows of traditional barrels and, on

the back wall, the symbol of Tony Bish Wines - a vast, gold-coloured sculptural vat made of French oak and shaped like an egg. This is a Taransaud Ovum, the Rolls-Royce of wine vats. It is the only one in New Zealand and one of only a few in the world. Along one wall another three ovoid-shaped concrete tanks line up with conventional tanks of stainless steel.

Tony specialises in making chardonnay wines and, in these oval tanks, the fermenting liquid stirs itself and eliminates the need for human intervention.

“Wines fermented in oval tanks have purity, richness and sublime texture,” says Tony, whose love of chardonnay began way back in 1986, when, with the two Mason brothers, he co-founded Hawkes Bay’s Sacred Hill Winery.

In the Urban Winery, Tony’s bottled wines are showcased in a welcoming bar area, and an adjacent wall shelves a careful selection of others from around New Zealand.

Wine aficionados could occupy themselves here for an afternoon or the good part of a day. For those of us who appreciate wine without much analysis, it is a treat to call in to admire the winery’s interior decor and prop our elbows on the bar for a tasting and a bit of education.

WIN!

A delicious prize from the Urban Winery Bar and Restaurant, including complimentary wine tasting and a platter for four, valued at $100.

To enter, visit nzmcd.co.nz/ competitions before 2 April 2020.

Better still, to be there on one of the three evenings a week when the cellar door becomes a bar and patrons can settle in for a glass or two of wine with a tempting selection of tapas and delicious-looking platters. Musicians are frequently invited to entertain, especially at weekends Visitors and imbibers are offered a fullblooded welcome to this venue, but one thing they aren’t permitted to do is to light up. That’s an ironic twist in a building that owes its existence to tobacco.  The Urban Winery Bar and Restaurant is open seven days a week, and late on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.

Local art works adorn the walls

The Urban Winery bar

The seating encourages patrons to linger

51

EXPLORE | 8 GREAT CAVES

8 GREAT CAVES

Calling all spelunkers. Here are 8 great caves around New Zealand worth delving into

One of New Zealand’s most popular tourism destinations, the Waitomo Caves are in the heart of the King Country and are formed of hundreds of caves — about 400 have been identified so far. Every year, thousands of tourists flock to Waitomo to see the glow-worms and incredible limestone formations.

There are options to see the caves on an underground boat, a black-water raft, and along a subterranean walkway.

NGARUA CAVES, NELSON Nelson’s Ngarua Caves can be found within Marble Mountain in the Takaka Hill range, a 30-minute drive from Motueka on SH60 towards Takaka and Golden Bay. The caves have a wide and breath-taking variety of stalagmites and stalactites, and also a skeleton of the extinct moa on display.

OPARARA, NORTH WESTLAND The Oparara Basin and rainforest is 16km from Karamea in Westland and features the 13km Honeycomb Hill Cave as well as New Zealand’s largest limestone arches. The caves are renowned for the discovery of the most extensive collection of subfossil bird bones found in New Zealand. More than 50 species — many now extinct — have

52 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

been discovered including moa, giant New Zealand eagle, giant flightless goose and rare native birds such as takahē and kākāpō.

RIKORIKO CAVE, NORTHLAND The Rikoriko Cave, the world’s largest sea cave, is located in the Poor Knights Islands in Northland. Dive Tutukākā runs eco-tours exploring the caves, arches, and marine and birdlife unique to the Poor Knights marine reserve.

The cave is renowned for its acoustics.

Live concerts — including by Kiwi artist Neil Finn — have been performed in the natural auditorium.

KAWITI CAVES, KAWAKAWA The Kawiti Caves, a few kilometres south of Kawakawa, are also known as the Waiōmio Caves. They are home to thousands of luminous glow-worms, awe-inspiring rock formations and lush green rainforest. Guided tours are available, taking you along a wooden boardwalk through a 200m limestone cave system.

WAIPŪ CAVES, NORTHLAND The Waipū Caves, located off SH1 near Waipū, are free to enter, but take note that the area is completely undeveloped. There are no tracks or

paths in the cave, and you may need to wade through water and clamber over mud banks. The cave is in three sections with the third chamber being the best for viewing the ‘galaxy’ of glow-worms. This area also features limestone/karst rocks and boulders that have weathered into beautiful, surreal shapes.

TE ANAU CAVES, SOUTHLAND You’ll need to join a tour to visit these caves, but it is well worth it. The journey begins with a boat ride from the lakefront in Te Anau where you’ll then cruise through 12,000-year-old caves that have been carved by water into swirling shapes and formations. You’ll also be taken by boat into a grotto that is home to hundreds of tiny glow-worms.

CATHEDRAL CAVES, THE CATLINS The Cathedral Caves are located in cliffs at the northern end of pristine Waipati Beach in The Catlins. The caves have attracted international interest for their length — the two sea-formed passages together measure just on 200m — and their impressive height, up to 30m. They can only be reached for an hour, either side of low tide. When the tide is right, you can walk from one cave to another —but be prepared for wet feet. 

IMAGES BY NEW ZEALAND TOURISM

WAITOMO, WAIKATO

Authorised Distributors of Dethleffs, Niesmann+Bischoff & Authorised Distributors of Frankia, Dethleffs, Morelo Motorhomes Frankia, Niesmann+Bischoff & Morelo Motorhomes

0800 222 0800 222 108

Service Partners in Auckland, Taupo, Blenheim and Christchurch

FEATURE

MCD writer Lisa Jansen enjoys connecting with other travellers via various Facebook groups

GET SOCIAL

Are you part of the RV online community?

If not, it might be time to join, says Lisa Jansen

O

ne of the great things about RVing in New Zealand is the community that comes with it. Everywhere I go, I meet lovely, stimulating and supportive people - and that applies to the online world as much as the real world.

I’ve long been a member of many motorhome-, caravan- and campingrelated groups on Facebook, and I’m continually amazed by how much value I get from them. From answers to questions about locations, technology, different brands of mobile homes, the inspiration for new places to visit, moral support at challenging times, and connections to like-minded people, these groups offer it all and much more.

And there are many from which to choose. In fact, I had no idea just how many RV-related groups there were until I started researching this story.

54 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

FOR EVERYONE

FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS

Motorhome Friends New Zealand: With more than 14,000 members, this is one of the largest New Zealand-based motorhoming Facebook groups of which I know. It’s an awesome community of fellow motorhomers and caravanners exchanging idea, tips and support.

Caravans, Motorhomes and Camping New Zealand: A smaller group but full of just-as-friendly, supportive, knowledgeable and inspiring people.

Two other, smaller general groups are Motorhome and Camping Travels New Zealand and RV Happy Travellers NZ.

Being a solo traveller can get lonely, so it’s great to know there are a couple of groups where you can connect with others who are also on the road on their own.

Female Travel Buddies NZ is a group of more than 400 women travelling around New Zealand on their own. I think there is more than one woman out there who overcame her fears regarding cruising solo thanks to this group. It’s just so supportive and encouraging.

Solo Kiwi Travellers: This group is for all travellers, not just RVers, so there are a lot of fascinating discussions happening on a wide range of travel-related topics.

FOR TRAVELLERS WITH KIDS

FOR FREEDOM CAMPERS

Motorhoming/Caravanning/Camping with Kids NZ: This is for you if you’re travelling with children and looking for kid-friendly places to visit, ideas for activities or just support and advice.

Whether you want to find or share new freedom-camping spots or engage in discussions on the topic, there are Facebook groups for that.

• Freedom Camping New Zealand

• Freedom Camping NZ • Self Contained Freedom Camping in NZ FOR NZMCA MEMBERS

NZMCA Wings Members-Only Group If you are an NZMCA member and have any questions related to the association or want to connect with other members, this group is the one you should join. With almost 10,000 members, you’re sure to get some answers to your questions and maybe make some new friends.

FOR BUYERS AND SELLERS

If you’re looking to buy or sell a motorhome, caravan, bus or anything related to it, there are several groups to consider.

• NZ Caravan and Motorhome Buy/Sell/ Trade • Caravans for Sale NZ • Caravans, Motorhomes & RVs for Sale or Rent, NZ • Caravans and Trailers for Sale NZ • Caravan & Camping Buy Sell Trade NZ

• Buses, Caravans, Camping Buy, Sell, Swap, NZ FOR PEOPLE WITH SHARED INTERESTS

There is a long list of groups focusing on specific RV-related activities or those that aim to connect owners of certain brands of mobile homes.

• For the creative types: Motorhomers Get Creative • For cyclists: Motorhomers Go Cycling NZ • For teardrop camper enthusiasts: New Zealand Teardrop Camper Trailers • For those looking for safety in numbers when parking up for the night: Movan Buddies NZ • For the full-timers: Living On The Road in NZ • For pet owners: Motorhoming With Pets in NZ • For freewheeler owners: Freewheelers • For the funny ones: Motorhome Fun and Banter New Zealand

• For golfers: Motorhome/Caravan Golfers NZ • For Jayco owners: Jayco Club Members • For those with small vans and caravans: NZ Small Van and Caravan Supporters • For those building their own campers: Self Build Campers New Zealand • For Mitsubishi L300 owners: Mitsubishi L300 Campervan Owners • For VW California owners/enthusiasts: VW California NZ • For the under-50s: Young RVing Kiwis As you can see, no matter what your RV interests, chances are, there is a Facebook group for it. While it’s exciting to have such a large and active online community, joining too many of these groups can quickly become overwhelming, and you end up not engaging with anyone. Pick a few that spike your interest and start there. 

Follow MCD at facebook.com/mcdmagazine

55

FEATURE

FUELLING YOUR JOURNEY

Although Kiwi Fuelcards offer great savings to NZMCA members, it can be challenging to figure out which card to use and where to get the best diesel prices, says Kathryn Teeboon

L

ife on the road is a beautiful thing - but it comes at a cost. The further off the beaten track you go, the higher the fuel costs. NZMCA members, however, can take advantage of a combined deal offered by the NZMCA and Kiwi Fuelcards.

HOW TO GET A KIWI FUELCARD

There are three brands of card: Caltex, Mobil and BP. Choose one - or all three - and use the card like EFTPOS whenever you fill up. You can apply online, by email or phone (see kiwifuelcards.co.nz for contact details). Your designated bank account will be debited on the 20th of the following month; an itemised statement is emailed at the beginning of each.

When you fill up and look at the receipt from the pump or the counter, don’t worry if it shows the full price. Only the discounted amount will be debited from your bank account.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Determining which fuelcard to use and when can be a bit boggling. The first 56 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

stumbling block is understanding the difference between pump price, national price and sector price. The pump price is the everyday price displayed on the pump at the gas station. The national price is a set price, which is not publicly displayed.

Finally, sector price is the set price for a particular area. You can find Caltex’s sector prices on the Kiwi Fuelcards website, and safely assume that these prices apply to both Caltex and Z Energy truck stops (or large service stations).

WHERE TO GO

The Caltex-branded card can be used at Caltex, Z Energy, and some Challenge sites. The Mobil-branded card can be used at Mobil service stations and truck stops as well as some Allied, NPD and Waitomo stations. The BP card can be used at BP stations and some Gasoline Alley and RD Petroleum sites. The easiest way to work out what can be used where is to use the Kiwi Fuelcard app, which is free from the App Store or on Google Play. The app will detect your location and provide a map

with local sites that accept one of the cards.

CHOOSING YOUR TARGET

The third and final stumbling block is figuring out what gas prices are near you and applying the relevant discounts to find the supplier to choose. For this, use another app, Gaspy, which is also free for both Apple and Android phones. It will detect your location and provide a list of suppliers within the search radius and their prices. The list can be sorted by the best price, nearest location, or by the number of Spy Coins you can earn by confirming the cost of a supplier’s fuel.

As weird as this last one might sound, this is the beauty of Gaspy; it relies on people out on the road checking and confirming (or updating) the pump price of each station they pass. The coins are an incentive.

As an example, take a look at fuelcard discounts for diesel within a 40km radius of Blenheim (prices correct as of 15 February 2020).

SUPPLIER

SITE TYPE

FUEL CARD

DISCOUNT

PRICE BEFORE DISCOUNT

PRICE AFTER DISCOUNT

Caltex

Truck stop

Caltex

8c per litre off sector price

$1.209

$1.129

Caltex

Service station

Caltex

6c per litre off pump price

$1.309

$1.249

Z Energy

Truck stop

Caltex

6c per litre off sector price

$1.209

$1.149

Z Energy

Service station

Caltex

5c per litre off pump price

$1.309

$1.259

Challenge

Service station

Caltex

5c per litre off pump price

$1.419

$1.369

Allied Fuel

Service station

Mobil

15c per litre off pump price

$1.409

$1.259

Waitomo Fuel

Service station

Mobil

15c per litre off pump price

Not available

Not available

NPD Fuel

Service station

Mobil

15c per litre off pump price

$1.269

$1.119

Mobil

All sites

Mobil

15c per litre off pump price

$1.309

$1.159

BP

Truck stop

BP

4c per litre off national truck stop price

$1.429

$1.239

BP

Service station

BP

8c per litre off national service station price

$1.309

$1.329

Gasoline Alley

Service station

BP

8c per litre off national service station price

$1.449

$1.329

RD Petroleum

Service station

BP

8c per litre off national service station price

$1.429

$1.329

This is just a snapshot of one location in the country. Please note: • Caltex and Z Energy truck stops will usually have the lowest price after discount for diesel.

• If a Mobilcard site (especially the smaller players of Allied, NPD and Waitomo, who typically have competitive prices before discounts) has a pump price of $1.279 or below, it will be as cheap, if not cheaper, than a Caltex or Z Energy truck stop.

• BP truck stops are competitive and the next best option, especially if you’re in Auckland or Wellington.

To find truck stops, download a PDF version of the networks for BP, Caltex and Z Energy from the Kiwi Fuelcards website or the suppliers’ website.

Overall, it’s worth planning ahead and heading for a truck stop for your next fill or using the Gaspy app to see which Mobilcard site has the best pump price.

Anything to stretch the dollar a little farther to extend the freedom of being on the road, right? 

USEFUL LINKS Kiwi Fuelcard application: kiwifuelcards.co.nz/get-your-card Gaspy app information: gaspy.nz Caltex sector prices: kiwifuelcards.co.nz/fuel-prices

57

WHEEL ESTATE | MORELO PALACE 93MB

NEXT-LEVEL LUXURY MCD editor Claire Smith takes a look through one of the priciest new RVs to hit the New Zealand market

I

on the passenger side - unusual for a European model, and something that will be appreciated by Kiwi drivers), one of the first, and most striking, features is the huge, panoramic front window. Park yourself somewhere scenic and you’ll be rewarded with million-dollar views (or at least, half-a-million-dollar views). The windshield itself is made with heated safety laminated glass, which means the view will be clear even when driving during those cold winter months.

UP FRONT

The MORELO Palace is built on an IVECO Daily 70C18 chassis with a 205HP engine, an 8-gear torque converter automatic transmission, and front and rear VB-AirSuspension - an intelligent suspension and damping system that adapts in real-time to the condition of the road surface and the load. This, combined

with the extra-wide axle, is designed to give a smooth ride (or, as MORELO would describe, creates a feeling of “driving on clouds”).

The luxury cab seats are heated, airsuspended with lumbar supports and armrests and, of course, swivel around to the living area. Like everything in the Palace, they’re designed to offer the best in comfort, and I can assure you, comfortable they are.

As you move through, there’s a sense that you’ve stepped into an upmarket apartment.

Even the dashboard has been designed to blend seamlessly with the living area. It’s streamlined, unobtrusive and has decent cupholders (we all know how important they are!).

Plush cream leather seating is offset with a pale wood trim that creates an ambience of quality and luxury. But, of course, if the decor doesn’t suit, the team at Zion will work with you to order a Palace to the colour choice of your liking.

IMAGES BY REBEKAH ROBINSON / SUPPLIED

t’s a rare event to see an RV valued at upwards of half-a-million dollars cruising New Zealand’s country roads.

Jonas Ng of Zion Motorhomes in Pokeno has recently brought two such RVs into the country, and one has already sold.

It’s not the first time he’s raised the pricepoint bar in New Zealand. Jonas took a risk by importing the high-end, highpriced A-Class Niesmann + Bischoff range a few years ago. He says it’s a risk that has paid off, with good demand for the range.

His latest A-Class product comes courtesy of German manufacturer, MORELO. Known as the Palace 93MB and valued at $575,000, this RV is aimed at those looking for the ultimate in quality and luxury.

As its name suggests, the Palace is, well, palatial. At 9490mm long, everything is just bigger. Stepping inside the XL-wide doorway (which is noteably positioned

58 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

The Palace is the height of comfort, quality and luxury

LOUNGE

In the lounge area, space abounds with seating for six or seven people around an extendable table. And when there’s just two of you, there’s room to stretch out, relax and just enjoy all that comfort and space to yourself.

A total of seven overhead cabinets run along the sides of the lounge and into the kitchen area. And like all cupboards and drawers, they’re soft-closing, and generously sized. Beneath the seats, you’ll find more storage space with extra deep drawers on both sides, plus each of the two steps leading inside includes a drawer - very handy. On the side of the settee is a large pocket for keeping books, magazines, and the TV remote.

Speaking of TVs, at first, you might think the manufacturers have omitted space for a television; turns out it’s just well hidden.

The dashboard has all the bells and whistles, including good cup holders

At the push of a button, the TV descends from its hiding spot

59

The kitchen offers good bench space, plenty of storage, and a Nespresso coffee machine

A slide-out pantry for bottles and jars

The 190L fridge, with a grill oven above

Twin sinks set into the stone benchtop

Flick a switch on the wall, and the 32-inch TV is electrically lowered from beneath the passenger-side overhead cabinets. And when you’re finished, it retracts away again and you’d never know it was there.

KITCHEN

In the kitchen, there is an enormous amount of space for preparing food, with an L-shaped 1740mm x 1000mm mineral bench. It’s a good-looking bench too; nice and thick and beautifully finished with soft curves and a speckled pattern that reflects the cream and tan tones of the interior decor.

Housed within the bench are twin sinks,

60 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

one standard sized, a smaller one behind.

Both have flush sink covers to create extra food prep area when needed. The mixer tap swivels between both and has a pulldown attachment for ease of rinsing off the dishes. An extractor fan is built into the kitchen ceiling to draw out any cooking steam and odours.

For cooking, the Palace includes a covered 3-burner hob, and a gas oven with grill that sits above the full-sized 190L Dometic fridge/freezer unit. For coffeelovers, the Palace includes a Nespresso coffee machine (tidily housed in its own space, complete with a handy rack to hold coffee pods).

The storage space in the kitchen is truly

impressive. Beneath the bench are three large drawers for pots, pans and the like, a large rubbish drawer with two separate bins to allow for recycling or composting, plus a further four cutlery drawers. In addition, there is a pull-out pantry for bottles, jars and tins, a drawer beneath the fridge, shelves behind the cooktop for spices and condiments, plus overhead storage for anything else that needs a home.

BATHROOM

Between the kitchen and bedroom, the bathroom is one of the most spacious you’ll find in an RV. To one side is the XL vanity unit with a full-sized sink, three

THE CARAVAN & RV FINANCE SPECIALISTS

drawers beneath, and mirrored LED-lit cabinets above. On the other side is a generously sized shower and a ceramic toilet alongside.

The shower is possibly bigger than you’d find in most homes and will comfortably accommodate the big and tall. It includes a slide tap and space to store all the essentials, including racks for hanging hand towels. The fixtures and fittings are all of a very high standard, including a glass shower door. And, with a massive 350L fresh-water tank and a 3kW boiler, you can take the time to enjoy a long and leisurely hot shower.

The bathroom has its own full-length wardrobe unit. It’s split with a shelf in the middle and rails top and bottom. And for keeping your towels warm and dry, there’s also a heated towel rail.

With sliding doors to close off the bedroom and kitchen, the bathroom becomes a private space with more than enough room to move about and get dressed. There’s even a full-length mirror on the back of the bedroom door to check that you’re in good form before heading out for the day.

SLEEPING

The Palace bedroom is at the rear and includes an island north-south queen bed.

Like many motorhomes, the bedroom is a small step up from the ‘living’ level, and there is a small step on each side of the bed. At 2000mm long and 1630mm wide, and with an EvoPore Watergel mattress, you’re assured of a blissful, comfy night’s sleep. And as you’d expect, there is loads of storage with two huge drawers at the end of the bed, three overhead cabinets, closet shelving and vertical cabinets plus a small drawer, powerpoints and USB ports on each side too. And for that end-of-day catch up on your favourite show, there’s a 24-inch TV in the bedroom too.

If you do decide to share your Palace with others, a double-sized dropdown bed sits above the cab and can be deployed at the touch of a button.

Big and comfy, the bed includes an Evopore Watergel mattress

OTHER NOTEWORTHY INTERIOR ASPECTS

Throughout the Palace, thoughtful design has been given to lighting and a sense of openness.There’s room to move without feeling like you have to inhale whenever your travel partner/s are in the same zone.

0800 300 500

The large shower and one of the two fulllength shelved cabinets in the bedroom

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61

PROS • It’s a Palace! The whole RV is a pro. It really is five-star RV accommodation.

• There are more cupboards, drawers, shelves and clever storage solutions than you’ve seen in any other RV. • The habitation door is on the passenger side.

CONS The supersized garage has powerpoints, drawers and cupboards

MAKE & MODEL

MORELO Palace

Chassis

IVECO Daily 70 C 18

Engine

205Hp

Gearbox

8-speed auto

Berths

4

Length

9490mm

Width

2400mm

Height

3490mm

Tanks

370L fresh 250L grey

GVW

7490kg

Tare

5720kg

Payload

1770kg

Price as reviewed

$575,000

From the backlit food-prep area, to the reading lights over the bed, to the rows of recessed ceiling lighting, the interior is bright and welcoming. Also included is roof air conditioning (with infrared control) in the living and bedroom areas.

For winter comfort, the double floor is heated, and there is an Alde hotwater-based heating system and radiators throughout the living room. All the Palace’s windows are double-glazed and tinted with a blackout pleated blind and fly roller blinds. And for keeping he Palace clean, there’s a central vacuum cleaner.

EXTERIOR

From the outside, the Palace has a sleek, streamlined aesthetic and is constructed of lightweight corrosionresistant aluminum alloy. The lead frame is hot-dip galvanised and the GRP 62 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

underside is 100 per cent waterproof.

With a vehicle of this size, you need to be sure you’re safe to reverse, so the Palace has the option of a double reversing camera - one for close-up and one that gives a view further back.

The MORELO badge takes prominence from every angle and adds a touch of luxe. Up front, the Omnibus mirrors are hard to mistake. They are not exactly aesthetically enhancing in my opinion, but with a vehicle this size, you can’t be without them.

The Palace has been built with the needs of travellers who want to travel in style and luxury, and for a decent length of time. With that in mind, it comes with a 370L fresh-water tank, 250L grey tank, and a 250L black tank. The grey tank also includes a valve that allows overflow into the black tank.

At the rear of the vehicle, the large

• It’s a Palace! And the price-tag is equally palatial.

• You’ll need a Class 2 driver’s licence.

• I’d love to see a little more room to move around the bed.

tunnel garage is accessible from either side and is big enough for a small scooter or to house all the extras you’ll want to take along on an extended holiday. There are drawers, cupboards and shelves built into the garage too, so you’ll be well organised and tidy as you travel.

An additional smaller tunnel locker runs the width of the vehicle, handy for storing long items such as skis or fishing poles.

And if you’ve come home with sand on your feet, you’ll find a hot/cold retractable shower inside one of the smaller lockers great for washing off yourself or your gear.

Other exterior features include LED daytime running lights, an integrated, electrically extendable awning with LED lighting, and 440W of solar.

SUMMARY

If you’re looking for quality, luxury, and space, you’ll find all those boxes ticked within the Palace walls. Will everyone who steps inside fall in love and declare it their dream RV? Quite possibly not. Some will find the Palace feels just a bit too upmarket and detached from the Kiwi RV lifestyle.

Others will step inside and find it hard to go back to anything less.  For more, visit zionmotorhomes.co.nz

MORELO PALACE FLOORPLAN

FIRST CLASS REISEMOBILE. MADE IN GERMANY.

WHEEL ESTATE | BÜRSTNER LYSEO T700

PERFECT HARMONY Bürstner enjoys a reputation for quality and innovation. One of its latest products is the T700, a compact, user-friendly motorhome with an efficient kitchen and flexible dining space.

Bill Savidan is impressed

64 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

The wall-mounted table is easily removed if you prefer an open-plan lounge

T

he folk at Bürstner are always looking to improve their products.

In fact, they win prizes for it.

Late last year, Bürstner won the European Innovation Award for Best Concept Caravan and the coveted ‘gold’ at the 2020 German Brand Awards. This desire to be the best shines through in the Lyseo Harmony Line, a range of 10 different layouts and sizes that includes the T700 reviewed here.

The T700 is built on a Fiat Ducato fitted with Fiat’s low-frame wide rear-axle chassis, which improves stability and appearance; the rear wheels are flush with the wall panels rather than hiding at the back of the wheel arches. Standard safety features include Anti-Lock Braking (ABS) and the Electronic Stability Program (ESP), incorporating traction control and hill-hold functions.

Both cab passengers have air-bag protection.

IMAGES BY BILL SAVIDAN

DRIVING

Most car drivers new to motorhomes are surprised at how quickly they transition to driving the larger Fiat Ducato. Good visibility and cab ergonomics along with the latest version of Fiat’s 6-speed AMT gearbox have ‘newbies’ feeling at ease in no time. Full adjustment on both cab seats,

cab aircon, cruise control and heated, electrically adjustable rear-vision mirrors add to the enjoyment. It is worth noting that the information pamphlet supplied emphasises the importance of using only the right foot when driving. Using both feet, one on the brake and the other on the accelerator, confuses the computer and makes the gearbox act erratically.

CONSTRUCTION

There’s nothing fancy here, just tried-andtrue methods. The walls, roof (30mm thick) and floors panels (41mm thick) are made using a foam sandwich technique that creates a rigid structure with excellent insulating properties. A GPR outer skin, used to protect the roof from hail damage, is also used to preserve the underfloor area from gravel damage.

OUTSIDE

The ‘Harmony Line’ graphics and 16-inch alloy wheels give the T700 its unique stamp. On the driver’s side, there’s a hatch for the toilet cassette, a rear garage door and the 700mm-wide habitation door.

Above is a 4000mm awning. Kerbside is a second rear garage hatch, an LPG bottle locker and a utilities locker hatch. All but

the toilet cassette hatch have strong clips to hold their lids open. An electric doorstep makes entry/exiting easier. A warning light on the dashboard indicates the entry steps are deployed.

CAB

The curved hatch in the Luton roof over the cab offers good ventilation and plenty of light. A full-width shelf in the Luton itself provides handy storage for cameras, specs and jackets.

The Ducato cab features centrally mounted cup-holders, a leather steering wheel cover, Remi blinds on cab windows and windscreen and seats covered in quality faux leather to match dinette seats.

Fiat’s durable smooth black cab floor coverings have been retained.

DECOR

The decor - honey-coloured cabinetry, coffee and cream ‘Sydney Swing’ upholstery, gloss white locker doors and drawer fronts, grey slate bench and tabletops - is warm and restful. The floor is covered with randomly patterned vinyl to match the cabinetry. The indirect lighting throughout the vehicle can be adjusted to suit all moods and occasions.

65

The Dometic 145-litre single-door fridge/ freezer has a removable freezer compartment

The kitchen is equipped with a selection of appliances to meet most demands

DINING

My preference is for a removable dining table. Stowing the table opens the lounge up, making it more sociable. It is also easier to get to the cab seats. So I was delighted to find the table in the T700 was removable. That, and the excellent headroom (2050mm), makes the lounge an attractive, airy space for entertaining.

When used for dining, with the swing-leaf extension deployed, there is room at the table for up to five diners.

The TV is tucked away in the corner above the fridge. A custom-cut wall panel surrounds it, hiding most of the wiring, making it a lot less obtrusive but still handy for the cook to keep an

66 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

eye on the news while preparing dinner.

A water tank and the Truma 6 dualpurpose water/space heater occupy most of the space under the dinette seat, while two house batteries take up space under the side seat.

KITCHEN

The T700 has a compact, nicely appointed kitchen. Intelligent accent lighting transforms it from a workspace into a special place with a selection of appliances to handle most demands; a 145-litre fridge/freezer (single door, removable freezer compartment) opposite the sink, a wall-mounted coffee-capsule holder, a three-burner cooktop and a large circular sink set into the benchtop, a small oven

below and a range hood over the hob.

(Note; the rangehood relies on a charcoal filter and is not an air extractor.)

Good use is made of the space under the benchtop. There are two large, allpurpose drawers (one with a rubbish bin), a dedicated cutlery drawer, and a towel rail and hooks for tea towels and dishcloths.

Here you will also find the LPG shutoff valves, one each for the fridge, stove, hob and dual heater. Most Euro/British RVs have this setup, which allows each appliance to be isolated from the LPG supply should the need arise.

The kitchen is well lit, with accent lighting under the benchtop and behind the locker doors, backlit wall panelling and track-mounted downlights over the benchtop with a large hatch above providing light during daylight hours.

OUT BACK

A solid sliding door closes off the front of the RV from the back with a 150mm step up emphasising the isolation. First up is the split washroom with the shower kerbside and the toilet/handbasin on the driver’s side.

TOILET AND HAND BASIN

Behind its silver, side-opening tambour door, the bathroom is a compact, workable space. A smart ‘shell’-style handbasin is mounted on top of the vanity unit. There’s a mirror above, medicine cabinet to the left and a cupboard below. The toilet roll sits in a neat fitting inside the cupboard

WE CAN HELP YOU FINANCE YOUR DREAM RV!

The main bed is set up for a lie-in with a good book and a morning cup of tea

with just the end of the roll available through a slot in the cabinet wall. Both side edges of the wall mirror are backlit, and there are two LED lights above.

SHOWER

The shower stall is a triangular shape with a two-piece door across the longest side, or hypotenuse. There’s plenty of room to wave your arms about and good access past it to the side of the island bed. An imposing moulding in the back corner of the shower stall houses an LED light and a shelf for soap and toiletries. And it is ‘wheel-arch-free’ thanks to the ThermoFloor double floor.

ISLAND BEDROOM

At first glance, the rear bed (1900mm x 1400mm) may look a bit shorter than the advertised length. Don’t be alarmed; it pulls out to its full length at sleep time. If you feel you need more room to get past the foot of the bed, opening the doors of the shower and toilet compartments should do the trick.

There is more than enough headroom for sitting up in bed and, with a reading light and side table each side, it is well set up for the morning cuppa.

There are useful storage options, with a side hanging locker on one side of the bedhead, a shelved cupboard on the other, two overhead lockers and two more lockers under the foot of the bed. There are also two 150mm deep-floor lockers, one in the bedroom, the other in the lounge.

0800 300 500

Behind its silver, side-opening tambour door, the bathroom is a compact, workable space

At first glance, the rear bed may look a bit shorter than the advertised length. Don’t be alarmed; it pulls out to its full length at sleep time

The shower offers plenty of room

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67

The T700 packs a lot into its sub 7000mm overall length

MAKE & MODEL

2019 BÜRSTNER LYSEO T700

Chassis

Fiat Ducato

Engine

2.3L turbo-diesel Euro 6. 96kW130hp

Gearbox

6-speed AMT auto gearbox

• Very efficient kitchen.

Berths

2

CONS

Length

6990mm

• Rails and hooks in the

Width

2300mm

Height

2990mm

Fresh/grey water/hot water

120L/90L/10L

Power

150 BHP Euro 6

GVW

3500kg

Tare

2890kg

Payload

610kg*

Price as reviewed

$147,900, incl on-roads and GST

*Payload reflects factory standard weight excluding accessories or individual modifications.

FLOOR PLAN: BÜRSTNER LYSEO T700

68 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

PROS • The size is compact/easy to store and park.

• The removable dining table.

bathroom, please.

• More solar-power output to fill the batteries during the winter months.

In addition to the standard blind and insect screens, both bedroom windows are fitted with smart roman blinds.

CERTIFIED SELF-CONTAINED

With 2 x 90 amp/hr house batteries, a 150-watt solar panel, 120-litre fresh and 90-litre grey-water tanks, 2 x 9kg LPG bottles, a 1000-watt inverter, an LPG cooker and a 145-litre LPG fridge/freezer, the T700 is well set up for a few days of freedom camping.

The Burstner Lyseo T700 is a well-built motorhome with an island-bed layout, designed with two people in mind. Just under 7000mm long, it is a compact and manageable; a good supermarket car-parkfriendly motorhome.

For more information, visit smartrv.co.nz

Experience the

Kiwi capital of the World™ this autumn

Hear the call of wild kiwi on a guided night walk and discover other fascinating creatures that come alive after dark

whakatane.nz whakatane.com/kiwi-capital

Take charge with REDARC

When you hit the road it’s time to relax… the last thing you want to do is worry about things like a flat battery or an out of control caravan. REDARC have a wide range of accessories to help you get away from it all.

BCDC In-vehicle Battery Chargers

• Designed to fully charge auxiliary batteries when off-grid • DC to DC charging profile ensures a battery can achieve and maintain an optimal charge • Charges all major lead acid batteries and includes a lithium charging profile • Available in 25, 40 and 50 amp models

Battery Management Systems

• Designed to charge and maintain auxiliary batteries • Operates like six separate products; a 240 volt mains charger, MPPT solar regulator, DC-DC charger, start battery isolator, load disconnect controller and remote battery monitor • Compatible with 12 and 24 volt charging systems and charges all 12 volt deep cycle auxiliary batteries

Tow-Pro Elite V3 Electric Trailer Brake Controller • Two types of braking at the turn of a dial – Proportional for the highway and User-Controlled for off-road • Control knob is designed to be mounted on the dash • Suitable for electric and electric/hydraulic operation and 12 and 24 volt vehicles

redarcelectronics.co.nz

For more information visit your nearest auto-electrician or 4WD specialty store.

®

6386-191210

WHEEL ESTATE | ACTION EVERLAND R705

READY FOR ACTION Malcolm Street is impressed by the style, flexibility, storage and technological advances displayed in the Action Everland R705

The Renault-powered Everland has a distinctive shape

E

arly last year, there was an air of excitement at the Action factory at Albany when a very new-looking Everland R725, a motorhome aimed at the retail market, rolled out of the factory door. That was followed not long after by a second model, the R705. It’s taken a while, mostly because synchronising my visits to the factory with an available review/test vehicle was a bit problematic, but, finally, the day dawned and I was in the Everland R705 heading north from Albany to one of my favourite spots at Waiwera.

Like the earlier Everland model, the R705 Renault Master Platform cab chassis can have a GVM of either 3500kg for a 70 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

WOF or be registered at 3800kg if a larger payload is required. The Everland sits rather low to the ground, which means that clearance has to be kept in mind when crossing deep gutters or similar obstacles.

On the road, the Everland is a lively performer. Its 2.3-litre 110kW/360Nm turbo-diesel engine and six-speed AMT gearbox pushes it along well enough and that makes for a fairly relaxing drive - a bonus for any motorhome traveller.

For those new to the motorhome world, the European-built lightcommercial vehicles underpinning most New Zealand motorhomes are more carlike than truck-like.

The Everland sits rather low to the ground, which means that clearance has to be kept in mind when crossing deep gutters or similar obstacles

I recently received a refresher of what I’ve obviously become used to when I spent the day behind the wheel of a Japan-built 24-seater bus, which was definitely more truck-like and did something unhelpful to

my left shoulder. It was a reminder that a test drive when considering a motorhome purchase is always a good idea.

WALK RIGHT IN

IMAGES BY MALCOLM STREET

Inside the Everland, Action has made full use of dropdown bed technology - there’s one across the front behind the driver’s cab and one across the rear.

Under both are the lounge/dining areas. That leaves space in the middle for a nearside kitchen and an offside bathroom with adjacent cupboard area.

Although the design of the Everland range is new, the decor does have a slightly KEA look about it. (That’s a compliment by the way.) All the cabinetry is made with 15mm sustainable plywood’ fitted together using cam and dowel construction.

ABS plastic-sealed panelling minimizes water penetration. Integrated blinds and screens are fitted to all the windows and the driver’s cab has curtains that go around the swiveled cab seats.

The lighting – a mixture of LED downlights, strip lights and reading lamps – is stylish and, for the most part, highly effective. The electrics, lighting included, are controlled by a Ci-Bus touch panel, located outside the shower cubicle opposite the entry door, i.e. handily positioned to prevent fiddling around in the dark.

The Renault Master is pleasant to drive

Up front, everything fits in rather neatly under the dropdown bed

A ladder is definitely needed to get to the front bed

71

An angled cupboard makes lounge access easier

Just above that panel is the 24in TV. A little differently, it comes with a fitted protective cover, which helps hold it in position when travelling.

MEAL PREPARATION There’s plenty of cupboard space in the kitchen. Note the raised hob

With its round stainless-steel sink and three-burner Can hob, the kitchen benchtop looks remarkably uncluttered.

Installing a hob with the burners sitting proud of the bench surface is a little unusual but still functional. It just means a flush lid cannot be installed. In the airspace above are two overhead lockers, one of which contains a microwave oven.

Below the benchtop is a Thetford Duplex grill/oven, two drawers and a double cupboard complete with cutlery drawer and garbage bin. Fitting in between the rear seat and kitchen bench is a Thetford 141-litre fridge with a cupboard above.

Generally speaking, there is no shortage of storage space in the kitchen area.

KEEPING CLEAN

The bathroom is designed to maximise space usage

Surprisingly, the bathroom is a little larger than expected. Indeed there is room enough for a separate shower cubicle, small vanity cabinet complete with washbasin, wall mirror and a Thetford cassette toilet.

What’s clever about the bathroom design is that the door is angled to both maximise the internal area while minimising the external footprint. This is good design.

Visit creditone.co.nz now to take

72 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

OUR 60-SECOND ONLINE QUOTE

The cupboard that butts up against the rear wall of the bathroom comes with hanging space and the shelf area, again angled to suit the overall layout.

DOWN THE BACK

Surrounded on all sides by windows, the club-style lounge is reasonably roomy and will accommodate two people easily around the table. There are wall reading lights, which can be used when the bed is lowered, and downlights fitted beneath the bed.

Across the rear, there’s a small shelf, and there’s a drawer under the offside seat. There are several power points; a double under the nearside seat and a second double plus USB hub located on the offside cabinetry, which is handy for use at the table.

Lowering the bed is a smooth pushbutton operation given the belt drive. The bed itself measures 1950mm x 1340mm and doesn’t quite lower far enough to be a step up off the floor but there’s a ladder stored below for that purpose.

Plenty of light in the rear section

UP THE FRONT

There’s good news for those who want a second lounge/dining area. A little more compact than the rear area, the front seating has the two driver’s cab seats, a forwards-facing sofa (complete with seat belts) and table behind the driver’s seat.

A sideways-facing sofa is opposite.

The Ci-Bus touch panel is handily located. The TV has a protective cover when travelling.

0800 300 500

A bed with a view. Note the reading lights

The slat bed base and drive mechanism for the dropdown bed

CREDITONE.CO.NZ

73

Overhead lockers are fitted on both sides of the dropdown bed and there are also compartments above the driver’s cab. Like the rear bed, this 1950mm x 1190mm x 910mm bed lowers easily at the push of a button and it also needs a ladder for access.

rods and golf clubs as well. Dometic Seitz acrylic windows are fitted all around and the habitation door is a Camec triple locker with security screen. Not quite out of sight on the roof is the optional Southern Cross satellite dish.

BODYWORK

FREEDOM TO CAMP

Omnipanel, a composite structure of Styrofoam sandwiched between fibreglass sheets, is used for the overall body construction. This includes the floor, which is fully sealed to prevent water and dust entry. The curved roofline, together with the fibreglass mouldings back and front, removes the square look of most motorhomes and results in a nicely aerodynamic looking vehicle.

A bike rack, fitted to the rear wall, is included as standard. However, the awning is an option - customers can choose their own. That said, I quite like the Cvana awning. Unlike a few others I have seen, the Cvana is robust and will cope with a bit of mishandling.

Across the rear, the tunnel storage is well-sized for all the usual items, such as camping chairs, table, hoses and power leads, but there’s enough room for fishing

With both fresh- and grey-water tanks sized at 110 litres, the two house batteries rated at 120Ah, and the solar panel at 140W, the Everland does have the ability to freedom camp for several days without too much trouble. In winter, when using the Truma Combi space heater, the only limitation may be the single 9kg gas cylinder.

PROS • Efficient use of dropdown beds.

• Nice-looking motorhome.

• Large window area.

• Lockers under the front bed.

• Dometic touch-pad system.

• Internal lighting.

CONS • Limited ground clearance.

• Height issue for tall persons under the beds.

OVERALL

Somewhat of a different internal layout to the R725, the Renault-powered Everland R705 offers much and is very flexible. With two separate dining and sleeping areas, it will suit either two people who like a either a double bed or two large single beds, or a family who need both beds.  For more information, visit actionmanufacturing.co.nz

FLOOR PLAN: ACTION EVERLAND R705

Spacious tunnel storage; the ladders are for the beds

Single 9kg gas-cylinder supplies

74 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

MAKE & MODEL

ACTION EVERLAND R705

Base vehicle

Renault Master

Engine

2.3L turbo diesel

Gearbox

6-speed AMT

External length

7050mm

External width (incl awning)

2340mm

GVM (kg)

3500kg or 3800kg

Fresh water

110L

Grey water

110L

Gas

1 X 9kg

Price

$147,500

anywhere.

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TECHNICAL TIPS

Dethleffs’ Coco caravan

RV MEETS EV: WHAT NEXT?

A

t this year’s CMT Stuttgart - southern Germany’s largest caravanning and motorhome show - AL-KO and its partner Huber Automotive, under the ‘E-Mobility Range’ banner, released two markedly different concept chassis. One was for caravans, the other for motorhomes, and both were battery-powered electric-drive chassis.

Environmentally friendly and fuelefficient, both the Hybrid Power Chassis (HPC) and the Next-Generation Caravan Platform (NGCP) illustrate what is possible with state-of-the-art electricaldrive technology.

HYBRID-POWER CHASSIS

European/British motorhome

76 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

manufacturers building on the Fiat Ducato platform currently have the option of using AL-KO wide rear-axle chassis in place of Fiat chassis. Soon, they will have the option of fitting the AL-KO HPC in place of the Fiat one.

Based on an AL-KO lightweight chassis, the HPC includes either one or two modular battery packs (each with a 50km range) as well as electric drive (e-drive) components that include an electrical rear axle with a peak power output of 90kW. That output seems modest, but with Ducato motorhome engine options starting at 88kW, the HCP effectively doubles the available power.

Used in hybrid mode (e-drive), with the

onboard management system determining the output from each power source, (internal combustion engine or electric motor), fuel savings and CO² reduction of up to 30 per cent can be achieved as well as improved acceleration. A bonus is the 4 x 4 traction available in hybrid drive, evaporating the Ducato driver’s fear of wet grass. And another EV-driver fear running out of battery power - doesn’t apply as the internal combustion engine is there in support if the battery runs low.

The battery is charged either by regenerative braking or by connecting the built-in charger (standard 7kW or optional 22kW) to mains power. It also replaces the RV house battery, providing the

COMPETITIVE INTEREST RATES FROM 7.9%

IMAGES: MESSE DÜSSELDORF/CTILLMANN, AL-KO

Environment-friendly and fuel-efficient, electric vehicles are touted by many as the future. Bill Savidan catches up with the latest e-advances concerning RVs

opportunity for a greater range of home appliances to be used aboard.

Towards the end of 2020, once the certification process is completed, the Hybrid Power Chassis will be available to all Euro/British motorhome manufacturers. It will be interesting to see which ones take up the challenge.

NEXT-GENERATION CARAVAN PLATFORM

At the 2018 Dusseldorf Caravan Salon, Dethleffs introduced an e.home version of its small, stylish Coco caravan.

Powered by dual 40kW electric motors and fitted with an 80kWh lithium battery, it paved the way for selfpowered caravans.

So the release of AL-KO’s powered caravan platform at CMT Stuttgart seems a logical step on the road to a commercially viable next-generation caravan platform.

WHY BUILD AN ELECTRICALLY POWERED TRAILER/CARAVAN?

Towing diminishes the range of the towing vehicle, by up to 70 per cent if it is an EV. Electrically powered trailers

0800 300 500

reduce the load on the towing vehicle, providing emission-free range support, making them ideal for the task. The demand for self-powered trailer/ caravans will increase along with the demand for EVs. This prototype has a GVW of 3175kg, a 48-volt drive and a 10kW (optional 30kW) battery. This drive system actively supports the tow vehicle, increasing its drive range regardless of whether it is an internal combustion engine or electrically powered.

OTHER BENEFITS

The drive train incorporates its own antisnaking and torque vectoring systems. The electric drive powers or decelerates the wheels individually, meaning the trailer/ caravan can be stabilised in dangerous situations without any action on the part of the driver. Note, too, that loading conditions and environmental influences are taken into account.

Brake (regenerative) and over-run energy can be recovered and stored in the trailer chassis battery for later use, supporting the tow vehicle. The regenerative process,

The demand for selfpowered trailer/caravans will increase along with the demand for EVs

a comfortable form of braking when travelling downhill, also reduces wear and tear on both vehicles’ braking systems.

The battery also doubles as an off-grid camp power source for equipment such as electric refrigerators, lighting and cooktops. When needed, the battery can be charged by plugging the built-in charger into the grid. No need for motormovers either. In ‘self-propelled’ mode, using a phone app, the NGCP can be moved to wherever it is needed with a minimum of fuss.

Closer to home, Australia’s OzX Corp is testing a prototype self-powered chassis it plans to make available for sale as soon as next year. Perhaps we will see that one first? 

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77

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T

here are three distinct reasons to choose a multi-day Discovery Expedition of Fiordland: the rare wildlife, the untouched scenery, and the unique historic sites that have played a significant part in New Zealand’s early history. Make that four - the food prepared by the on-board chef.

For more than half a century, Real Journeys has been sharing the natural beauty of the southern part of New Zealand with visitors. The south-western corner of New Zealand is the largest unpopulated area of the country. Once there, there are no newspapers, no phone connection, no wi-fi and no real contact with the outside world.

Your skipper, crew and nature guides are all trained professionals, with an intimate knowledge of Southern New Zealand.

They enjoy sharing this magnificent region, and their enthusiasm is infectious.

The Real Journeys crew don’t just sail the vessel; they do everything they can to ensure you have the very best cruise 78 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

experience on the Milford Wanderer, which was purpose-built for navigating southern New Zealand. Warm, comfortable and carrying just 32 passengers, she is designed along the lines of the early coastal trading scows. At 30m in length, she’s about the same size as Captain Cook’s Endeavour, which also sailed in these waters. The view outside is much the same as it was back then too.

Accompanied by specialist nature guides, who are experts on the flora, fauna and history of southern New Zealand, you will walk amid untouched rainforests and visit places of natural wonder and historical interest. There are plenty of opportunities to disembark the vessel with daily nature hikes, kayaking and tender craft activities.

With sumptuous meals and an attentive crew, all your needs are looked after against an awe-inspiring backdrop. The atmosphere onboard is friendly and relaxed, so you’ll quickly get to know the crew and your fellow travellers.

It’s an experience that is different for everyone and along the way you could see some of New Zealand’s rarest birds, including the Fiordland crested penguin, seals, dolphins and whales at certain times of the year.

Cheeky kea are a regular sight in Fiordland

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PEOPLE | ME & MY RV

Steve and Deborah Murray enjoy a summer break in their newly acquired caravan

ME & MY RV

How, when, what, and why are essential considerations when it comes to buying a motorhome or caravan. Everybody’s criteria and circumstances are different. In this monthly column, Jill Malcolm interviews the owners of RVs to learn how they made their decisions

S

teve and Deborah Murray live in Auckland. Steve owns Synergy Films, a video-production company specialising in business communications. Deborah is an ESOL lecturer at AUT, teaching English to adult students. They say they are fortunate their jobs give them the flexibility to escape Auckland in their newest caravan.

HAD YOU OWNED OTHER CARAVANS OR WERE YOU ‘CANVAS CAMPERS’?

We’ve been camping for more than 20 years now. We started with a familysized canvas tent, progressed to a Jayco camper trailer, then to a second-hand English caravan and recently to our new Bailey Unicorn caravan.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO BUY THE CARAVAN YOU HAVE NOW?

There were two main reasons: we sold our house, which meant the old caravan had nowhere to live, and our old van 80 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

was more than 12 years old and starting to wear out.

or near-new stock when we were looking, and the choice was relatively limited.

HOW DID YOU RESEARCH AND WORK OUT WHAT YOU WANTED?

WHY DID YOU DECIDE ON THE MAKE AND MODEL, AND WHAT IS IT?

Our previous caravan gave us a good grounding in knowing what to look for in a new one. Firstly, we worked out that we wanted a new or near-new van with an island bed. The next thing was to decide on the bed’s orientation. After much internet research and visiting a lot of dealers, we decided we preferred the ‘north-south’ orientation.

Once we had made that decision, the choice began to narrow, and it became a matter of finding a caravan that had the bed the way we wanted it as well as the other features we had identified as desirable.

We finally chose a 2018 Bailey Unicorn Cabrera series IV, which is on a single-axle chassis. The towing length is 7370mm. It was available, and the price was right.

WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN MAKING A DECISION?

It was finding the right van at the right price. There wasn’t an abundance of new

WHAT WERE THE DEAL-MAKING FEATURES OF YOUR RV?

In the 2018 model we purchased, Bailey had changed the bathroom/shower layout, which meant access to the bedroom improved considerably and gave the space a more open-plan feel.

This also meant there was no longer the wall at the end of the bed, which had potentially constricted leg space for anyone who was on the tall side.

We decided the overall factory specification of the Unicorn provided everything we were looking for (and more) in a caravan. These included a large fridge,

The Bailey Unicorn Cabrera settled in at an idyllic spot at Whananaki

big windows, factory-fitted 100-watt solar panels, automatic traction control, luxurious interior decor, excellent lighting and a sophisticated fit-out.

WHAT DEALER DID YOU BUY IT FROM? AND HOW DID YOU FIND THE PROCESS OF BUYING, THE HANDOVER AND ANY FOLLOW-UP?

We bought the Unicorn from TrailLite in Pukekohe, Auckland. Everyone was great to deal with. Early on, we had a few minor issues that needed to be rectified, and they were ressolved promptly and efficiently.

We certainly felt a lot more confident buying this caravan from TrailLite compared with the experience of buying our first English caravan from a lesserknown dealer. Sometimes big is better.

IMAGES BY JILL MALCOLM & BILL SAVIDAN

WOULD YOU DO ANYTHING DIFFERENTLY?

I can’t think of any better way we could have gone about the deciding and buying process. And we were thrilled with the company we bought it from.

IS THERE ANYTHING ABOUT YOUR NEW CARAVAN YOU’D CHANGE OR IMPROVE?

AL-KO makes a heavier-duty chassis that is about a 100mm higher and takes an approximately 400kg greater payload. This chassis on the Unicorn would be excellent,

especially given some of the roads and campsites in New Zealand. It also opens up more options regarding carrying onboard water tanks, which would have been nice to have, but not currently essential for us.

Also, the positioning of the spare tyre in the Bailey is just too low, and the supposedly ‘clever’ tyre-lowering mechanism is a pain to operate. The spare tyre now lives under the bed.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER OTHERS LOOKING TO BUY THEIR FIRST CARAVAN?

Research, research, research. I tell them to visit lots of dealers and look at as many vans as they can. Motorhome shows are great places to help people confirm their ideas and understand their requirements.

Also, at the risk of offending anyone, if I were planning to do a lot of travelling, I wouldn’t buy a second-hand English caravan more than 10 years old unless it was in excellent condition, and sometimes that’s hard to determine.

WHERE WILL YOU STORE YOUR CARAVAN AND DID STORAGE INFLUENCE YOUR DECISION OF MAKE AND MODEL?

It fits in our driveway, which is the reason we needed the manoeuvrability of a single-axle chassis.

The couple decided an east-west bed was non-negotiable

HOW WILL YOU USE YOUR NEW CARAVAN AND WHAT TRAVEL PLANS DO YOU HAVE?

Apart from our annual summer beach holiday, we will only get away for short weekends at this stage. We love visiting campsites with hot pools in the winter.

However, we have just embarked on a new house build, so our opportunities to get away may be curtailed in the short term.

But we love the fact that we have a ‘bach on wheels’, which we can use to explore other parts of the country. Once the new house is built, we anticipate getting away for more short stints. 

81

PEOPLE | JACKIE’S JOURNEY

JACKIE’S JOURNEY

THIS GOLDEN LAND

Enjoy breathtaking views across Blenheim and the Wairau Valley

W

e ended 2019 and began 2020 in the food and wine-growing region of Marlborough. Blenheim had been a place we passed through on our way to and from the Cook Strait ferry, but now we had the opportunity to spend several weeks here. We liked the feel of the place right away, from the relaxed atmosphere 82 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

to its friendly and welcoming community.

Even the local children greeted us with a pleasant ‘good morning’ as they whizzed past on their bikes. Town and country are successfully and beautifully entwined, and even in the most urban of places, you can enjoy a stroll along the river and admire the thriving flora and fauna. There was nothing we liked more than spending a leisurely Sunday morning perusing the Marlborough Farmers’ Market. It’s a mustvisit, whether you’re after top-quality, locally grown produce, or just wanting to sit in the sun, listen to the music and watch the world go by.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

Yet another wonderful thing about Blenheim is its variety of walks; long hikes, short jaunts and some of the most picturesque dog-friendly places in the country. Much thought and planning have gone in to making the area fun and welcoming. The vibrantly colourful Pollard Park is a favourite with locals and visitors alike. You can also follow the Taylor River on foot from the centre of town out to Taylor Dam. This walk is pure joy for the senses, with crystal-clear water, wildflowers of all shades as far as the eye can see and forests of fragrant wild fennel.

Taylor Dam was the first place we visited

IMAGES BY GARETH SCURR & JACKIE NORMAN

Jackie Norman sold her home in 2016, bought a motorhome and embarked on full-time life on the road with her husband, Gareth.

This issue, she visits the Wither Hills in Blenheim

We liked the feel of the place right away, from the relaxed atmosphere to the friendly and welcoming community

The Rotary Lookout is a place to admire the view (and catch your breath)

The ‘twin tanks’: one of the landmarks walkers pass getting to the top of the Wither Hills

on our arrival in Blenheim when we were on the hunt for somewhere peaceful and scenic to park up and have lunch, and it was all of those things. Aquatic birdlife abounds here, and you can walk right around the dam, passing through a picturesque patch of forest before wandering along a riverside trail.

As a bonus, there is also a free-camping area close to the entrance, with 10 spaces for self-contained vehicles. While we didn’t stay there, it is popular, so it pays to arrive early. What will always remain in my memory, however, is that it was there I first set eyes on the golden spectacle known as the Wither Hills.

83

At the top of the hills, we were higher than the planes flying over the vineyards

ALWAYS ANOTHER HILL

Being a wine-lover, Wither Hills was a name already known to me. And as soon as I saw those enormous and inviting ranges, I became obsessed with climbing to the top. Luckily, I didn’t have to wait long, and one sunny afternoon we quite literally headed for the hills.

The Wither Hills Farm Park is a real jewel in Blenheim’s crown. Named after early landowner, Charles Bigg Wither, it includes more than 1100 hectares of rolling-to-steep hill country for all ages to enjoy.

With more than 60km of walking tracks and mountain bike trails from which to choose, it’s no surprise the hills are enjoyed by thousands of locals and visitors a year.

We started on one of the most popular routes, the Rotary Lookout. This 25-minute (one-way) uphill walk takes you to one of several excellent vantage 84 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

points and looks out across the whole of Blenheim and the Wairau Valley. Because it was a weekend, there many people walking the track, but they all turned around from the lookout and walked back the way they had come.

But I couldn’t help thinking that there was so much more to see. The track led far up into the hills, and the tall, golden stalks I had come here to see had only just started to sway in the wind. And so we continued; and then on some more, stopping continually to admire the views as they stretched out even further beyond each hill.

Each time we reached a landmark or new valley, we kept on walking to the next, and the next. As we hiked towards Taylor Dam Lookout, we were higher than the planes that soared over the vineyards below - a lush, green oasis amid the parched, arid hills.

THE LONG WAY HOME

At last, we reached the top and were rewarded with panoramic views of Cloudy Bay. Except for a couple of mountainbikers, we hadn’t seen a soul since the lookout, and as the sun belted down, we were unbelievably grateful for the sudden appearance of a drinking fountain.

The higher we had climbed, the fiercer the winds got, until we couldn’t hear one another, and we’d lost hope of our sunhats remaining on our heads. But we had conquered the Wither Hills, and it had been worth every step.

It was when we began our descent via the Forest Hills Track that we realised how far away we were from where we had parked the van.

We’d only planned to walk around eight or nine kilometres; when we arrived exhausted, back at the car park, at last, we had clocked up 17km. But what an

Wither Hills is a massive public area and a working farm. It pays to know the following before you go: • Access to the Farm Park is via Rifle Range Place, Forest Park Drive, Weld Street and Redwood Street.

• No dogs are permitted. Respect the stock, do not disturb them and leave all gates as found.

• Despite the scale of the hills, the tracks are well-maintained and most only require an average level of fitness. Sturdy footwear is recommended, particularly after rain.

• Take note of fire-advisory signs during summer when dry and windy conditions can be a potential hazard.

• The top of the hills are exposed and often have high winds. We advise choosing a calm day if possible.

We were exhausted by the time we reached the van

I have never been so glad to see a drinking fountain

epic and memorable hike it was.

You can keep going all day, but of course, you don’t have to. The Gentle Annie and Quail Stream walks are easier and shorter, both with great views.

But, now, every time we see the instantly recognisable peaks of Wither Hills from the road when driving through Blenheim, we smile at each other and say, “Wow. We’ve been up there.” 

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85

PEOPLE | GAVIN MACKENZIE

GYPSY TRUCKER

Elisabeth Easther speaks to Gavin Mackenzie who swapped a career in the armed forces for a life with The Gypsy Fair

HOW DID THE LIFESTYLE COME ABOUT?

In 1995, when I was posted to Whenuapai, I started doing markets in Auckland, really just to subsidise the pay, which wasn’t that flash. My wife at the time was making handicrafts. I was cutting stuff out of MDF wood, and she was painting them, making things like fridge magnets. Then The Gypsy Fair came to town. We took a stall, and we were hooked. For the first five years, we lived on the base during the week and went to fairs at the weekend. Some 25 years and 725 fairs later, I’m still here.

BEING A MILITARY MAN, HOW DID YOUR CREATIVE SIDE DEVELOP?

I grew up on a dairy farm in Taranaki, 86 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

and I’d be given a pile of bent nails and offcuts of wood, and I’d just make things.

Farm kids are always creating something from hay or hedges or chopping up bits of wood and putting them together to make karts. This is back in the mid-1970s, so there was no Warehouse or Kmart.

HOW DID FARM LIFE LEAD TO A CAREER IN THE RNZAF?

The air force had been my calling ever since I read Reach for the Sky. Douglas Bader was very inspiring. But I wasn’t a pilot, I was an armourer, looking after weapons systems. Anything that exploded fell into my department. Assembling weapons, loading or defusing things, servicing escape systems; everything was to the highest standard because you can only make one mistake with explosives.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST CAMPERVAN?

We bought our first van when we were living in Auckland. It was an ex-Blue Skies rental - a little Isuzu Elf ‘cabover’ camper.

For that whole summer, every weekend we’d head out of the city on a Friday night,

and the kids would wake up in Rotorua or Coromandel. That fitted in nicely with The Gypsy Fair because back then they took casual stallholders, and anyone could turn up and trade. Then we got a bus.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO GET A BUS?

It was a few years down the track, and we were based in Ōhakea. My brother-inlaw had bought himself an old Bedford, and I was helping kit it out. We were driving through Palmerston North to a demolition yard looking for windows I had no intention of getting something bigger - when we passed Associated Coach Services. The guy there was selling buses and among all the Bedfords was my Ford, all painted up from the musical, Hair. We stopped the car to take a look and, two hours later, I’m driving the bus out the gate. It cost $5000, and we had to park it, covered with stars and moons, in the middle of the Ōhakea air force base’s married quarters.

WHAT IS IT?

It’s a 1949 Ford and was built in Napier

IMAGES BY GAVIN MACKENZIE / PJ SHEPHERD PHOTOGRAPHY

M

idway through a highflying career in the Royal New Zealand Air Force, Gavin Mackenzie started selling crafts at gypsy fairs at the weekends. Before long, he decided the lifestyle was for him, and it was goodbye to the military and hello life on the road.

by Nuttal Coachworks, and it’s one of a kind. I gather it was an experimental prototype with a galvanised steel tube frame, an all-aluminium skin, and an aluminium roof that was guaranteed not to leak for the lifetime of the vehicle, although that hasn’t been the case.

Sixty years on, it’s still going but there’s not a lot of Ford left beyond the badge on the front and the chassis rails. It’s Japanesepowered now, with an Isuzu engine, Bedford front running gear and runs on diesel. It’s nine metres long, has 10 gears and is relatively easy to drive even without power steering. When we’re towing a two-tonne trailer, that pushes us out to 15 metres. I need an HT to drive it, but thanks to the air force, I have every licence under the sun.

the week, I hung around with military types where everything was organised in straight lines, and the weekend was all about total relaxation. Then in 2001, I was made redundant and went full time with the fair.

HOW DID YOUR LIFE ON THE ROAD EVOLVE?

WHAT KIND OF STALL DO YOU HAVE?

The fair got into my blood. It was like being on opposite ends of a seesaw. During

WHAT’S LIFE LIKE WITH THE GYPSY FAIR?

The fair runs for 32 weeks a year, and we go from Ōrewa to Invercargill. The majority of events are two days, apart from Christmas, New Year, Easter and Labour Weekend, and this year we did three days for Waitangi. The rest of the time we get into a place on Friday, set up shop, trade Saturday and Sunday and by 9:30am on Monday we’re off the paddock on the road, and it’s ‘see you at the next camp’. On average, we travel about 140km a week.

I hung onto the weapons side of my career and put my redundancy money into a shooting gallery with tin ducks.

Gavin Mackenzie

The fair is home to around 20 like-minded travellers

87

The fair has entertainment to appeal to all ages

Some of the fair buses

The first weekend I opened the shooting gallery, I had the guns chained to the bench like an old-style carnival, but it scared the hell out of me, people pointing them every which way. I quickly put them up on pintle mounts, the same way you’d mount a machine gun on the side of a helicopter. It’s much safer that way.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE FAIRGROUNDS?

Central Otago is fabulous, and Wānaka is our only pitch there. It’s not the most profitable place to earn our coin, but at the end of the day, we’re doing it for the lifestyle. We hit Wānaka town on Monday or Tuesday, advertise hard out, everyone sees the posters on Monday and Tuesday, but

by Saturday those people are gone and the ones who do come, they aren’t there next year. It takes a lot longer to crack the locals who are probably a little more conservative, when they see a lot of house trucks on the shores of Lake Wānaka. Ōamaru is another nice place; we enjoy hanging out with the steampunkers. And, right now, I’m parked outside a building called The Hangar, all copper, cogs and corsets. It’s a steampunk workshop in Whanganui run by another gypsy-fair house-trucker.

WHAT DO YOU DO ON NON-FAIR DAYS?

We’re only parked up together three nights a week, and because I plot the layout, I make sure it varies every week. I shift people around, so they’re not with the same neighbours every week but, like every community, you find your tribe within the tribe. During the week, we head off and park on our own for a bit of grounding.

88 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

The new ones tend to cling together for their first season, but that drifts apart after a while.

HOW MANY OF YOU TRAVEL TOGETHER?

It varies. We’re sitting at around 20 to 21 people at the moment, the optimum is about 26 to 27, any more than that and we’d struggle to get into venues. And in our community, the youngest is two and the oldest is in their 70s.

WHAT OTHER STALLS TRAVEL WITH THE FAIR?

Aside from my shooting range, we have a tattooist, a glass-blower, people do stuff with beads and forks and spoons, there’s a tie-dye shop with fabulous women’s and men’s clothing, bouncy castles, rides and, this year, we have a wonderful musician running the stage. It’s fantastic to hear people singing along and clapping and calling for more. We limit the imported side of things because people like to buy things they know you’ve made.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU GIVE PEOPLE WHO WANT TO RUN AWAY WITH THE FAIR?

We get people who say they’d love to join all the time. But it’s very much like fishing, we get lots of bites and very seldom land a fish. You need a suitable self-contained vehicle and a stall that complements what we have and doesn’t compete. The hardest thing for people is to let go of having a pay packet coming in every week. So you need a sound vehicle, minimal or no debt and a slush fund for maintenance. If it’s a bad two weeks in a row and the coffers get

low, you don’t want the pressure of a bank manager on your case. To me, debt is the modern version of slavery.

WHAT SORT OF TRUCK IS BEST?

Get something reasonably modern. A lot of single women join the fair. My advice to them is to get a Japanese truck or bus that’s relatively easy to drive and cheap to maintain. So many people have a dream, then someone sells them an old 1950 Bedford house truck that’s been sitting on their property for years. But the brakes are shot, the house is falling apart, and someone just wanted to get shot of it.

You can make a lovely little house on a modern, reliable 1980s or 1990s Japanese truck. You can make anything look funky.

It’s like a grown-ups’ playhouse, and there are no rules about what you can and can’t do - so long as it complies with the LTSA. WHAT TIPS HAVE YOU PICKED UP?

Simplify your needs. We have a 12-volt system, mainly for running the fridge and charging devices and lighting. We don’t have a TV. We have a small freezer for making ice cubes, and we buy fresh and cook often. We run the kitchen as our grandmother would have, and we don’t waste food.

I PRESUME THERE’S A FORTUNETELLER AT THE FAIR; DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR FUTURE HOLDS?

This is my retirement. As long as I can do this, I will continue. It isn’t about money - it’s about exploring and meeting people and doing what you love.  To find out when The Gypsy Fair is in your region, visit gypsyfair.nz

Sign up to the NZMCD e-newsletter!

CLICK HERE Stay updated with all the latest RV news, travel stories, tech tips and more.

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PEOPLE | DAVE MILNER

BIRDS ON A BUS Dogs, cats, rabbits, even guinea pigs are not unusual pets in camper vans. But it’s quail that have won the heart of one seasoned animal-lover, says Lyn Barnes

D

ave Milner has a following on Facebook for his posts about the quail living in his motorhome.

He regularly uploads photos of his latest brood on the page, called Motorhoming with Pets.

“The quail are just a delight to have around,” says the retired cheesemaker.

“They’re small, very people-friendly, easy-care, hand-tame and provide eggs that are large for the size of the bird and are very nutritious.”

His six pint-sized Japanese Coturnix hens, which hatched mid-September, are producing 30 to 35 eggs a week. Dave gives away most of the eggs or trades them for fruit.

In December, he hatched 12 Northern Bobwhites, distinctive because of their white faces, and will keep a few. “They graze outside in a cage during the day, and bury into wood shavings inside at night, asleep with their feet up in the air.”

The 69-year-old breeds meal worms to ensure his birds have their required highprotein diet. “They love them, they go crazy for them.”

Dave Milner with one of his female Japanese Coturnix quail

“In the evening, there’s lots of juggling. The animals take over the driver’s space at night, with the quail above the motor between the seats.”

Even solar animals are welcome aboard Myth

90 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

IMAGES BY DAVE MILNER

Along with the quail onboard his 7m Mitsubishi Rosa (named Myth) live a 15-year-old English Cocker Spaniel called Sharna, a large rabbit named Millie, Maxi the cockatiel, Finch the finch, and 1000 mealworms. “And my wife, Raewyn,” adds Dave. The couple married last March.

In the evening, there’s lots of juggling.

“The animals take over the driver’s space at night, with the quail above the motor between the seats. I’ve had birds all my life.

I love them. Well, all animals, really.”

It hasn’t always been this way. Life changed dramatically for Dave when his first marriage ended seven years ago. It meant having to sell up and part with most of his pets, including the house cow and pet sheep - and he missed his animals.

These days, Dave and Raewyn winter over at Bethany Park in Kaiteriteri. But with the ‘no pet’ policy over Christmas, they pack up and move to Motueka.

Dave had to modify Myth and extend the bed to fit two comfortably. But the pair manage in the two-berth camper, which has a toilet and shower, although Dave admits the bunks have become storage areas.

Along with the mealworms, the birds eat a special quail crumb that Dave buys in from Christchurch, plus strawberries, spinach, courgettes and other greens.

But as for eating the birds, Dave’s emphatic: “No quail will be eaten out of this bus.”

Myth has also attracted a few other

birds at Kaiteriteri: tūī feed at the door and two kererū roost on the branch above the awning each night, plus there’s a weka nicknamed Wally.

“Wally comes inside every morning and night for a bit of grain bread. If the door is open, he pops up the step and climbs up on the couch, and taps the keys on the computer.

“He’ll take his first bit of bread for his babies then come back. If we’re in bed, he’ll shake the broom hanging on the wall outside, so we hear him,” adds Dave.

Wally will have to make friends with other long-term campers soon, as Dave and Raewyn are planning six months around the lower South Island with all the creatures on board. 

Dave has handled the birds since they were born

The quail sleep with their legs in the air

Wally the weka has made friends with the quail

Wally often pops inside

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RECIPES

EASTER FEAST Planning time with family and friends this Easter? Here are a few delicious recipes that are sure to please

ROAST LAMB 10 MINS PREPARATION | 20 MINS MARINATING | 1 HR 45 MINS COOKING 30 MINUTES RESTING | SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS: 1.5kg leg of lamb on the bone 6 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers, plus 4 whole cloves 6 sprigs fresh rosemary salt and freshly ground black pepper 300ml white wine 1 bunch carrots, scrubbed 1 bunch baby beetroot, peeled 4 pieces pumpkin 10 small potatoes, scrubbed olive oil steamed Brussels sprouts, to serve

METHOD:

TIM JAMES / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan-forced).

Place lamb in a baking tray and make lots of small slits in the skin. Push the garlic and rosemary spring into slits. Rub oil all over lamb and season with salt and pepper. Pour wine into baking tray. Leave at room temperature for 20 minutes, then cover with foil and place in oven.

Roast for 50 to 60 minutes. Toss vegetables and whole garlic cloves in a little oil. Remove foil, add potatoes and garlic to the baking tray and return to the oven. After 15 minutes, add carrots, beetroot and pumpkin and continue to roast for a further 45 minutes.

Remove from the oven, cover with foil and rest for 20 to 30 minutes. Steam Brussels sprouts for about 4 minutes. Toss with butter and serve.

Carve the lamb and serve with vegetables and pan juices.

92 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

CLASSIC POTATO SALAD 10 MINS PREPARATION | 20 MINS COOKING | SERVES 8

INGREDIENTS: 1kg small potatoes 2 teaspoons olive oil 2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds 200g natural yoghurt 1/3 cup (100g) whole egg mayonnaise 1 red onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons snipped chives, plus extra to garnish 1 teaspoon dijon mustard 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained

METHOD:

NOTES: If time allows, assemble this potato salad a few hours before serving to allow the flavours to develop.

DEVILED EGGS 45 MINS COOKING | MAKES 24 ANDRE MARTIN / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

INGREDIENTS: 12 eggs 2/3 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon dijon mustard 2 tablespoon each finely chopped fresh chives and flat-leaf parsley

METHOD: Boil eggs in a large saucepan of water — about 6 minutes or until hard. Cool, then peel and halve each egg.

Carefully scoop egg yolks from whites into a medium bowl. Place egg white halves on serving platter.

Mash egg yolks with mayonnaise and mustard until smooth; stir in herbs, season to taste.

Spoon egg yolk mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm fluted tube; pipe mixture into the egg white halves. Serve deviled eggs sprinkled with extra parsley or chives.

MINT AND FETA SALAD, NICK HUDSON / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

RODNEY MACUJA / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

Cook potatoes in a pan of boiling, salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender.

Drain and cool.

Meanwhile, heat half the oil in a frying pan on medium. Add mustard seeds, cover and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until seeds pop. Transfer to a large bowl. Add yoghurt, mayonnaise, onion, chives and mustard, and mix well.

Cut potatoes in half lengthways. Add to the yoghurt mixture and gently toss to combine.

Heat remaining oil in a small frying pan on medium. Cook capers for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Scatter capers and extra chives over potato salad and serve.

FRESH PEA, MINT & FETA SALAD 10 MINS PREPARATION | SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS: 2 cups peas, freshly shelled 120g baby spinach leaves, washed 125g feta cheese, crumbled ¼ cup mint leaves, finely shredded extra virgin olive oil, to serve lemon juice, to serve cracked pepper, to serve

METHOD: Cook the peas in a pot of boiling water for 1 minute. Drain then plunge immediately into icy water.

Arrange spinach leaves on a large platter.

Scatter peas over the top, then crumble feta over the peas.

Sprinkle with shredded mint and dress to taste with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and freshly cracked black pepper.

93

CHOCOLATE PANCAKES WITH CHOCOLATE CUSTARD 40 MINS PREP, STANDING AND COOKING SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS: Chocolate pancakes 2 cups self-raising flour 2 tablespoons cocoa powder 1/3 cup caster sugar 600ml buttermilk 2 eggs, lightly beaten 50g butter, melted spray oil raspberries, grated chocolate, to serve Chocolate custard 2 egg yolks ¼ cup caster sugar 2 tablespoons cornflour 3/4 cup milk ½ cup cream 100 gram dark chocolate, melted

METHOD:

ROB SHAW / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

Sift flour and cocoa together into a large bowl. Stir in sugar. Whisk in the buttermilk, eggs and butter. Stand for 30 minutes.

To make the chocolate custard, whisk yolks, sugar and cornflour together in a medium bowl. Bring combined milk and cream to the boil in a saucepan on medium heat. Remove from heat. Gradually whisk into yolk mixture. Return custard mixture to saucepan. Stir in chocolate. Heat, constantly stirring, on a low heat until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Do not boil. Take custard off heat.

Spray a large frying pan with oil and heat on medium. Cook ¼-cup measures of pancake mixture for 2 to 3 minutes until bubbles form on surface. Turn and cook for a further 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining batter, spraying the pan with oil as required.

Serve warm pancakes drizzled with chocolate custard. Sprinkle with berries and grated chocolate.

DESSERT HOT CROSS BUNS

INGREDIENTS: 2 eggs ½ cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 60g butter 4 hot cross buns, halved sliced banana, to serve strawberries, to serve maple syrup, to serve

94 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

In a bowl, whisk together eggs, milk and vanilla. Dip hot cross buns into the egg mixture, turning to coat.

Heat butter in a large frying pan on medium. Cook buns in two batches 2 to 3 minutes each side, until golden.

Serve with banana and strawberries.

Drizzle with maple syrup.

NOTES: If preferred, use fruit bread or brioche in place of hot cross buns.

JOHN PAUL URIZAR / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

10 MINS PREPARATION | 10 MINS COOKING | SERVES 4

METHOD:

EASTER TRIFLE 30 MINS PREPARATION + CHILLING TIME | SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS: 3 chocolate hot cross buns 85g packet berry-flavoured jelly crystals 825g can pear slices in natural juice 500g store-bought thick vanilla custard 300ml thickened cream 1 tablespoon caster sugar

Prepare jelly as directed on its packet; refrigerate until set, then cut into cubes.

Cut chocolate hot cross buns into approximately 1.5cm cubes. Set aside about 1 cup of the bun cubes for garnish.

Sprinkle remaining cubes over the base of a 7-cup capacity glass serving bowl.

Layer drained pears, diced jelly and custard over bun cubes. Cover and refrigerate trifle until required. Just before serving, lightly toast reserved bun cubes and allow to cool.

Beat cream and caster sugar together until soft peaks form. Spread the cream over the custard layer and sprinkle the top with toasted bun cubes.

DAVID HAHN / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

METHOD:

EASTER BREAD 20 MINS PREP + STANDING TIME 30 MINS COOKING

INGREDIENTS: 300ml warm milk 2 x 7g sachets dry yeast or 30g fresh 4 cups plain flour 1 teaspoons ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground fennel 90g butter, chopped ¼ cup caster sugar 1 orange zest, finely grated 2 eggs Red-Dyed Eggs 3 eggs 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 teaspoon red food colouring IAN WALLACE / BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU

METHOD: Place milk in a bowl. Sprinkle the yeast over the milk. Allow to stand for 5 minutes until foamy.

In a large bowl, sift together flour, cinnamon and fennel. Using fingertips, rub in the butter until mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in sugar and orange zest.

Whisk one of the eggs into the milk mixture.

Pour milk mixture over flour mixture and stir to form a soft dough. Turn onto a lightly

floured work surface. Knead dough for about 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

Place dough in a lightly greased bowl.

Cover with wrap, then a tea towel. Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size.

Preheat oven to hot (200°C). Lightly grease a baking tray.

Punch dough down with your fist to release the gas. Knead on a lightly floured work surface for 3 to 5 minutes until smooth.

Divide into 3 even-sized pieces. Roll each into a sausage shape. Plait pieces together, pressing ends together to secure. Place on prepared tray and cover with a tea towel.

Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size.

Meanwhile, make the Red-Dyed Eggs (see recipe below).

Lightly beat remaining egg. Brush over dough. Push the red eggs into dough. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown and bread sounds hollow when tapped.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Red-Dyed Eggs Place eggs in a saucepan. Cover with water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Reduce heat to low.

Add vinegar and food colouring. Simmer for 7 minutes. Cool under cold water.

Drain well.

95

BOOKS

GRAB A GREAT

READ

A good book is a must-have for any road trip.

Here’s a quick look at some of the latest titles on the bookstore shelves

WIN!

We have a copy of Southern Nights to give away. To be in to win, visit nzmcd.co.nz/ competitions before 2 April 2020.

WIN! SOUTHERN NIGHTS

From eclipses to aurorae, comets to constellations, this is the story of the night sky above Aotearoa New Zealand.

It looks at what is special about our southern skies, which have only been explored very recently compared with those in the northern hemisphere.

It showcases our ‘family of light’, the major stars and objects of our sky and their associated meanings, history and cultural importance. It explains Polynesian celestial navigation, which brought the first people here, and Māori astronomy or tātai arorangi, which helped people live here once they arrived. Finally, it delves into modern astronomy, covering some of New Zealand’s amateur and professional scientific astronomers and their research, and looks at our observatories and the increasing popularity of dark sky tourism.

Naomi Arnold HarperCollins Publishers New Zealand RRP$65

96 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations

NANNY MIHI & THE RAINBOW

Nanny Mihi’s mokopuna (grandchildren) come to stay during the school holidays. Each day, she sends them out to collect objects of a different colour. They scour the local beach, collecting shells, flowers, seaweed and beach detritus left by humans, all the time asking, ‘why?’ By the week’s end, they have a collection of coloured items for a beach rainbow.

Nanny Mihi teaches her grandchildren and the kids who will read the book patience, creativity and connection to nature — and that sometimes the best things are not those we keep but those we give away. The text includes te reo throughout, for which translations are provided. Tracy Duncan’s revamped artwork and Melanie’s enduring story ensure that, once again, children’s imaginations will be captured.

Melanie Drewery Illustrated by Tracy Duncan Oratia Books RRP$19.99

THE UNIVERSE

Lonely Planet is journeying further than it ever has before with the world’s first and only travel guide to the universe, created in collaboration with NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL). Developed with the latest data from NASA, and featuring a foreword by award-winning science educator Bill Nye, the Science Guy, Lonely Planet’s new book touches down on the planets of our solar system, before continuing to the edge of the known universe via exoplanets, newborn stars, supernova remnants, galaxy superclusters and more as it discovers space’s most astonishing sights. By the end of the book, you’ll have a sense for the structure of the entire universe as well as some of the big questions we still have as we ponder our place in it.

Lonely Planet RRP$39.99

BRILLIANT MAPS

Which nations have North Korean embassies? What percentage of young people live with their families?

Which country lists volleyball as its national sport? How much does it cost to get a pint around the world? And where can you find lions in the wild? Revelatory, thoughtprovoking and fun, Brilliant Maps is a unique atlas of culture, history, politics and miscellanea, compiled by the editor of the iconic Brilliant Maps website. As visually arresting as Information is Beautiful and as full of surprising facts and figures as any encyclopaedia, Brilliant Maps is a stunning piece of cartography that maps our curious and varied planet.

A clever book that will change the way you see the world and your place in it.

Ian Wright Allen & Unwin RRP$45

COASTAL

In her latest book, Deborah HideBayne deepens her love affair with coastal New Zealand and gets stuck into a lifestyle that stopped her in her tracks when she first passed through expecting little more than happy holiday memories. Coastal is life lived joyfully – building a dream home and a fresh start with enjoyable detours on the way into making or doing things such as art and craft projects, collecting seafood, making a vegetable garden and growing veggies, planting an orchard, smoking a fish, making sausages and many other projects, large and small. It’s inspiration and encouragement for readers to have a go themselves.

Deborah Hide-Bayne Lighthouse PR RRP$39.99

DINNER IN 5

Dinner in 5 by award-winning chef Pete Evans makes family dinners easy. Each dish has five or fewer ingredients and includes an optional sauce or spice rub to add if you feel like taking things up a notch. Think crispy salt and pepper prawns with a kick of lime and chilli. A healthy spin on the beloved Chinese lemon chicken. The juiciest pork cutlets topped with zingy pineapple salsa.

A delicious barbecue chicken that needs nothing else but a squeeze of lemon and a simple green salad.

Easy, fast, nutritious. Pete Evans has been the No1 selling health and wholefood author for the past three years and is dedicated to improving people’s lives through education about nutritional food and wellness.

Pete Evans MacMillan Publishers RRP$39.99

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Travel your own path in confidence with NZ’s best RV insurance.

42 Gave in (7) 43 Piece (8) 48 Fidgety (8) 52 Windfall (7) 56 Totally impoverished (9) 57 Fragrant flower (7) 58 Layer of paint (4) 59 Long seat (3) 60 Refuse to let have (4) 61 Bisects (6) 62 Indict before a tribunal (7) 63 Tiny (6) 65 Steal (6) 66 Amiable (8) 68 Corrections (10) 71 Festering (6) 72 Hillocks of mining waste (4-5) 74 Praise publicly (7) 76 Enjoyment (3) 79 Populous country (5) 80 Dry red wine (7) 81 Pass (8) 83 Less dangerous (5) 84 Felt (6) 85 I n a favourable or advantageous position (7,6)

DOWN 2 Shorten (7) 3 Country with Nairobi (5) 4 Be in debt (3) 5 Cause pain (4) 6 Carried two-way radio (6-6) 7 Fastening for gate, door (5) 8 O ffensively or repulsively indecent (7) 9 Connect (4) 10 Stone fruit (6) 11 Out of fashion (5) 12 Skin-tight garment (7) 13 Keep up courage, do not give in (5,3,3) 14 Adhesive label (7) 20 Fellow student (9) 23 Roof window (8) 24 Blind alley (4,3) 26 Accumulation of jobs not done (7) 27 Disinterest (6) 29 Visually offensive thing (7) 30 Widespread food scarcity (6) 32 Distinctive smell (5) 34 Repairs (5) 36 Changes direction (5)

38 Closed (4) 43 Lost colour (5) 44 Store of weapons (7) 45 Chain armour (4) 46 Chewy sweet (6) 47 Metal-cutting shears (5) 48 Felt indignant about (8) 49 Occurring in brief irregular bursts (9) 50 Permit document (7) 51 Vertical passageway (5) 52 Lodge-building animals (7) 53 From time to time (3,3,5) 54 Fight (6) 55 I’m dot in place (anag)(7,5) 64 Give up all hope (7) 65 Abundant (7) 67 Cleaned (anag)(7) 69 D ense area of small trees, shrubs (7) 70 Conundrum (6) 71 Smell (5) 73 Boredom, listlessness (5) 75 Turning machine (5) 77 Flying mammals (4) 78 Ripped (4) 82 Clairvoyance (1,1,1)

SOLUTION Across: 1 Back to the wall, 8 Object, 14 Spare, 15 Grandeur, 16 Letters, 17 Inert, 18 Sot, 19 Advance, 21 Tightened, 22 Crèche, 25 Wet blanket, 27 Answered, 28 Behead, 31 Forces, 33 Lullaby, 34 Midday, 35 Deft, 37 Doe, 39 Cowl, 40 Anguish, 41 Neighbour, 42 Yielded, 43 Fragment, 48 Restless, 52 Bonanza, 56 Destitute, 57 Freesia, 58 Coat, 59 Pew, 60 Deny, 61 Halves, 62 Arraign, 63 Minute, 65 Pilfer, 66 Friendly, 68 Amendments, 71 Septic, 72 Slag heaps, 74 Acclaim, 76 Fun, 79 India, 80 Chianti, 81 Overtake, 83 Safer, 84 Sensed, 85 Sitting pretty.

Down: 2 Abridge, 3 Kenya, 4 Owe, 5 Hurt, 6 Walkie-talkie, 7 Latch, 8 Obscene, 9 Join, 10 Cherry, 11 Passé, 12 Leotard, 13 Never say die, 14 Sticker, 20 Classmate, 23 Skylight, 24 Dead end, 26 Backlog, 27 Apathy, 29 Eyesore, 30 Famine, 32 Odour, 34 Mends, 36 Turns, 38 Shut, 43 Faded, 44 Arsenal, 45 Mail, 46 Nougat, 47 Snips, 48 Resented, 49 Spasmodic, 50 Licence, 51 Shaft, 52 Beavers, 53 Now and again, 54 Affray, 55 Decimal point, 64 Despair, 65 Profuse, 67 Enlaced, 69 Thicket, 70 Riddle, 71 Sniff, 73 Ennui, 75 Lithe, 77 Bats, 78 Torn, 82 Esp.

ACROSS 1 In difficulties with no retreat (4,2,3,4) 8 Express disapproval (6) 14 Left over (5) 15 Splendour and impressiveness (8) 16 Correspondence (7) 17 Chemically unreactive (5) 18 Drunkard (3) 19 Move forward (7) 21 Increased the tension (9) 22 Day nursery (6) 25 Gloomy person spoiling the enjoyment of others (3,7) 27 Replied (8) 28 Decapitate (6) 31 Compels (6) 33 Cradle song (7) 34 Noon (6) 35 Quick and neatly skilful (4) 37 Female deer (3) 39 Monk’s hood (4) 40 Extreme distress of body or mind (7) 41 Person next door (9)

8 4 3contains5 the numbers 1-9 SUDOKU Fill 3in the grids so every5row, column and 3x3 box

6 9 2 3

4

78 6

2

3

8 9 2 9

6 1WORDEGOGOROUND 2R 5

2

5 9 7 2 2 1

MEDIUMS

7

P

8 69 8 OS FO CRYPTIC CROSSWORD WORD 4 3 4 6 6 79 8 7 4 2 3 12 5 5 5 9 3 4R7 Find 2 the 5m R 5 2 8 8 11 2 5 7 22 5 3 4 9 58 6 7 8 3 9 6 7 4 6 8 2 1 reading 9Wo 3 cl P 55 4 9 2 S 4 22 8 8 7 5F 1 8 6 4 439 46 271 16 52 1 5 2 7 91 89 83 3 O 8 6 2 Fill in the grids so every row, column and 3x3 box contains the numbers 1-9 SUDOKU 97 3 4 9 2 5 1 8 6WORD 10 GOmany ox contains the numbers 1-9 5words4of 48letters9 1 6 GOROUND GO ROUND WORDGO How GOROUND 5 and 3x3CRYPTIC WORDWHEEL so every row, column contains the SUDOKU Fill in the grids SUDOKU or more can you make? There 6box96 8 7 CROSSWORD 47 2numbers 3 1 1-9 5 9 3 4 WORD 7 WORD 2 52 8 GO 6 ROUND 1 5 GO GO 539 2 1 6word.5 3 7D is at least2 one 9-letter 76 29 8 6 1 9WordWheel 7 5 948 7 6 9 3S7 O 311 28952 8 938 93 6487277465221 6 846677788 2 36 Each letter may be used S O 6 9 3 7 4 32 9 3 4 47 6 7 617 6 5 12 29 9 858 2 5 41 8 8 674 4 2 3 39 only once3 and all words 3 7 9 must4 8 2I 11 12 2 2 9 1R4 contain the centre letter. No 97 3 4 9 2 5 5 2 4 1 8 6 10 4 3 5 4 8 6 3E2 D 7 R R R words starting with a capital, 3 45 3 8 6 1 44 7 3565 4213891 6 2252458 D3 2 5 8 2 1 67 5 73971 4 9 28 U3 no plurals1 ending 136in s.7 3 4 9 P S 4 2 8 5 9 Good 20 5 2 3 5 8 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 P 11 12 S MEDIUM HARD L I 93 5 8 6 5 6 5 28 Very Good 23 282 915 319131 5 424 9 3 2 5 8 F?2 4 21 9 8 71 914 616 5 87 87 63 449 O Excellent 17178 28+ N CRYPTIC CROSSWORD WORDWHEEL O F 1 9 8 11656 4 5 5977 93 95 32 2the 1 44 7 5 5missing 17 6make a word 44 2 2 5 86 9868 7574142 2859153 31 9 23 9 888 66 8 2 5 6 7Insert 1the eight-lette Find4 letter to1 17 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 reading clockwise or anticlockwise 5 7 3 2 9 4 8 6 1 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3 anticlockw many ANA 1 words 2 85of 48letters 3 9 26 7 4 7 698 2 81 9WordWheel 7 5 4 ANAC 5 How ANACROSS or more2 can you 88 662 9 2There 1 2 91 8 9 88 6 934ANACROSS 2make?

96word.

83 9 8 12 7 5 7 5 1 2 is at least3one49-letter 18 19 5 4 218 7 9 8 6 2Each GOROUND WORDGO may be used many of 4 letters 19 E2 words D How 7 letter 55SUDOKU 97and3all 4 many words of 4 letters 9 must 220 65 11 8 6 210 5 2 7 51 42859 31 How 3 only once words or6more can 7 you make? ThereBARGE IN 6 7 5 4 3 or more can you make? There 6 9 7 3 the8 centre 9 No721 3 5 72 29 20 8 6 2 1 6 5 3 is7D 2 contain letter.

U at least one 9-letter word.

22 6 1 4 4 9 8 O BERETHY S words starting2 with a capital, 8 7 9 8 is at least one 9-letter word.

Each letter may be used no plurals9CROSSWORD ending 4 in s.2 3 7 WORDWHEEL 4 7 9 4 8 only 82I once 2 5 7 1 2 38CRYPTIC HEY be SEAL 6 1and5 allEach 177 wordsletter mustSOLUTION may used L 6 Good 9 820711 4 52 23 1 1 56 8 71249 33 4 21 2 5 3 8 67 19 R R 22 arch arcs arcus aspic auric I SEEM IT ascimust 2 3 5 the centre letter.

No and HARD only once all words 23 24 6 7 3 4 contain 2Good 3 6 4 54 8 5 7 96 83 2 7 24 5 11 Very 2 5 4 1 2 1 9 5 8 2 WordWheel caps carp carpi carps carpus cash 2 5 8 3 9 6 7 4 6 8 2 1 9 3 7 13 5 4 words starting with a capital, N ?

NON ITEM Excellent 28+ 2 5 4 2 contain the centre letter.

No chair chairs chap char chars chip WORDWHEEL 3 4 7 6 58 1 2 9 8 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 178

E

MEDIUM

How many words of 4 letters or more can you make? There is at least one 9-letter word.

Each letter may be used only once and all words must 178letter. No contain the centre words starting with a capital, no plurals ending in s.

Good 20 Very Good 24 Excellent 28+

HARD

Fill in the grids so every row, column and 3x3 box contains the numbers 1-9

SE O S O RR R R E E P S P S O F O F

Find the missing letter to make a word reading clockwise or anticlockwise

E

178

178

SOLUTION 177 arch arcs arcus asci aspic auric caps carp carpi carps carpus cash chair chairs chap char chars chip chips chirp chirps crap craps crash crisp crush cups cusp parch phasic pica PUSHCHAIR rich scar scarp 192 043 scaup scrap scrip scup spica such uric

178

How many words of 4 letters or Insert morethecan youletter make?

There missing to complete an word 9-letter reading clockwise is eight-letter at least one word. or anticlockwise. Previous solution: Each letter may be used only once and all words must contain the centre letter. No words starting with a capital, no plurals ending in s.

Good 20 Very Good 24 Excellent 28+

Fill in the grids so every row, column and 3x3 box contains the numbers 1-9

MEDIUM

HARD

E

Find the missing letter to make a word reading clockwise or anticlockwise

S

Solve the anagrams, then fit the words into the crossword grid.

P

8 915 35 Across 1 26 4595 7 7 1Down 4 9 332 5 no8 plurals 1 7ending 6 words in s. chips chirp chirps crap craps crash 24 61428 1 NUISOUS 3 4 7 Find 2 the 5 missing 8 3 6letter1to4make a word starting with a capital, E2go home D (5,3) 1.16 Aware of first king at the moment 1.17Burgle and Insert the missing crisp crush cups cusp parch phasic Good 20 letter to complete an 97 3 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 10 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 7 TAIL RAM 5 7 3 2 9 4 8 6 1 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3 2.

Be better than 9 (5) (4) no plurals ending in s. rich scar scarp word reading clockwise or MEDIUM or4anticlockwise HARD eight-letter pica PUSHCHAIR 8 2 1 reading 9WordWheel 3 clockwise 78 5 6 043 2 9 2 1 9 8 Very Good 24 U be aanticlockwise.

3. Fool dog or the full2dog1(8) 6 23 ANACROSS 24 scaup scrap scrip scup spica 192 8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 5 4.3 Boswell 7D4alternatively 9 8 could ANACROSS such Excellent 28+ Good 20 uric hooter (3) 9. Use toll to do better than MEDIUM 5 1 8 CRYPTIC 6 4 2 3 5CROSSWORD 9 How many words of 4 letters HARD 9 557 2 1 6188 71249 3 32 7 5 2I15 6for 1 5or more 29 84 5.8196Another 177 the road the competition (7) Very Good Solve 24 the anagrams, then fit the L can youSOLUTION 6 9 8 7 4 2 36 111 3 4 7 WORDWHEEL make?

There arch arcs arcus asci aspic auric the hard night 10. Small map that Find comes in 7 amissing words into the crossword grid. to make 4 8 9 11 6 32E2 D 7 4 1 65 5 8 76 9 3 2 1 136the 3 morning 4 letter 9orafter 5 8 2 is aatword least one 9-letter word.

Excellent 28+ caps carp carpi carps carpus cash Down Across 3 4 7 before just a bit of the family collection (5) N ?

8 72 84 9 320 1 26 4 56 711.8Network 7 9clockwise 8(4,2,3,3) or4anticlockwise chairs chap char chars chip CRYPTIC WORDWHEEL letter may chair be used 2 hopes 1 reading U for people 49WordWheel 9 331.

55 8 6Each BARGE IN chips chirpmust chirps1. crapBurgle craps crash 6 72D 9 45898 783CROSSWORD 49 26 143 115 5 16 9 4 7who72Aware 2pet?

5ofup1missing 87 king 6No,letter 1the 1 6 5 1 3 only once and moment all words and go home (5,3) first at 17 3 6. Newts and out? not are familiar with the position. No Find the to make word crisp a crush cups cusp parch phasic 8 21 22 2 5 4 2 contain the centre letter.

No 5 7 3 2 9 4 8 6 1 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3 4 67216 55 1 23 9SOLUTION 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 pica PUSHCHAIR2. richBe scarbetter scarp BERETHY cleaned up yet (7) cowboys!

(4,3,5) 48 5 6 7 192 than 9 (5) (4) 7 9 4 13 8 2 reading clockwise wordsorstarting with a scrap capital, ANACROSS ANACROSS scaup scrip scup spica such L 9 64arch7arcs 1 2I 5 8 3 46177asci 6is loud8and7commercial 2 11 Fool 9 3D 7the 4anticlockwise 7.WordWheel Work liability (4) 5 14. Craze E notree plurals ending in s.

HEY SEAL 1 aspic5auric 5 3or 10 arcus 4. Boswell could be a dog full dog (8)uric 8.2 Scraggy out below bed (6-6) (3)2 Solve the anagrams, then fit thealternatively 1 8caps 4 8 7 186 carp 199 1 63. 3 6 7 3 97 4 93 54 89 223 5 carpi carps carpus cash Good 20 © THE PUZZLE C 8 12. Sweat for2 former3 headless 16. Rue 7 about exercise.

In fact8 words into the crossword grid.

N7 6? 5 1 202chair9chairs8 MEDIUM HARD 3 4 5 1 6 4 9 I SEEM IT chap char chars chip hooter (3) 9.

Use toll to do better than Very Good 24 D U 23 24 nude (5) explode!

(5) 9 3 2 8 5 86 11 74 67 3 5 2chips 9 chirp chirps crap craps 2 17.

1Brer Rabbit’s 6 5baby?3(3) 7 4 13.9Gold8dig outlookExcellent crash 28+ BARGE IN (8) 5. Another for NON the road the competition (7) ITEM CRYPTIC CROSSWORD WORDWHEEL Insert the missing letter to complete parch 97 229 phasic 9386clockwise 6cups10cusp 8 9 1to15.

65ahundred 3Lthat 2 644reading 91 728 4an5 2 211 3 crisp 18crush 5 Across 3 45 7 errors?

82sounds 6letter Five develop to7 18. Ova gene Almost 2 5 6 11 153 92 word or7 97eight-letter 3scarp 7much!

424 the58Down 61Small 1make missing word rich scar 177morning after the 0439(12)Find 124pica3PUSHCHAIR 192 hard night 10. map comesSOLUTION inBERETHY a transfer (7) too NUISOUS

2 5

7 1

O F3

Previous solution:

© THE PUZZLE COMPANY

Insert the missing letter to complete an eight-letter word reading clockwise or anticlockwise. Previous solution:

043

E D

anticlockwise. Previous solution:

3

9 8 5 8

2

5

WORDWHEEL INCLUDED

I B M E T H E R E B Y A N E E M A R I T A L I I A I S I N U O U S G N H E

9 3 4 7 2 5 8 6 1 6 8 2 1 9 3 7 5 4 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 8 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 1 6 7 3 4 9 5 8 2 4 9 3 2 5 8 1 7 6 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3

6 9 8 7 4 2 3 1 5 1 25 5 8 8 3 9 6 7 24 35 4 7 6 9 5 1 2 9 8 72 31 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 2 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 4 1 6 75 8 7 9 93 2 24 8 9 3 2 1 6 4 5 7 5 72 3 52 9 47 8 16 1

ANACROSS

HARD

2

8 6 5

4

7

6 9 2 3

3

6 9 8 7 4 2 3 1 5 1 25 5 8 8 3 9 6 7 24

MEDIUM

2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 8 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 1 6 7 3 4 9 5 8 2 4 9 3 2 5 8 1 7 6 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3

7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 WORDWHEEL 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 INCLUDED

I9 5 B 2 1 M 6 8 7E 4 3 6 7R 5 8 T4 H1 E E 7 B 9Y93 2 1 6 4E 5 7 4 8 A9 3 2 N E2 3 52I 9 M5 A72R T 4 A7 8L16 1 I I A I HARD S9 I3 N 4 U 7 O 2 5U 8S 6 1 N H E6 8 G 2 1 9 3 7 5 4

HARD

SUDOKU MEDIUM

8

8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 ANACROSS 2

923 4 7 2 5 8 6 1 6 8 2 1 9 3 7 5 4 795 1 8 36 47 2 23 94 8 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 83 6 99 84 7 4 2 3 1 5 3 7 5 8 28 6 1 5 2 11 6 27 53 8 4 93 598 62 7 4 59 43 72 65 895 117 26 9 8 43 7 1 9 4 3 87 2 5 6 3 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 2 1

73

9 8 58 8 2

4

6 9 7 3 ANACROSS 2 4 I B M E 3 T H E R E 5B Y E 4A N2 E 8 8 MI6A RI I TI A AL 2 9 S5 I N U O6U S 7 G N8 H E 2 2 WORDWHEEL 5 INCLUDED SUDOKU 3 7 2 4 8 6 6 1 9

3

9 8 5 8

5 6 1 6 4

2

9

4

6 8

2

8 6 5

4

669 9 8 7 4 27 3 1 5 2 1 25 5 8 8 2 35 91 62 79 48 35 4 7 6 9 72331 4 9 2 5 1 58 6 8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 22 4 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 481 6 6 75 8 7 9 93 2 24 8 9 3 2 1 6 4 5 7 66 1 5 72 5 3 52 9 47 8 1

5

3

2

SUDOKU 3 7 2 4 8 6 6 1 9 MEDIUM 3 4

7

4

8 2 9

3

5 2

7

6 9 2 3

I WORDWHEEL T H E R E B Y A N E E INCLUDED M A R I T A L I I A I S I N U O U S G N H E

WORDWHEEL INCLUDED

© THE PUZZLE COMPANY

WORDWHEEL INCLUDED

H E

MN E B G

I B M E T H E R E B Y A N E E M A R I T A L I I A I S I N U O U S G N H E

HARD

MEDIUM

2

8 6 5

9 3 4 7 2 5 8 6 1 6 8 2 1 9 3 7 5 4 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 8 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 1 6 7 3 4 9 5 8 2 4 9 3 2 5 8 1 7 6 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3

9 8HARD 569 8 7

S I N U O U S ANACROSS

5 4ANACROSS 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 8 2 1 I6 5 B3 7 M4 9 E 33 7 T9 H4 E8 R2 E6 B1 Y5 1 6 E7 3 A4 9 N5 8 E 2 4 9 M3 A2 R5 I8 T1 A7 L6 3 8 2 I5 6 I7 1 I9 4 A

5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 8 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 3 146 77 23 45 985 68 12 8 429 13 92 53 871 57 46 5 812 85 6 74 129 34 93

3

6 9 8 7 4 2 3 1 5 1 25 5 8 8 3 9 6 7 24 35 4 7 6 9 5 1 2 9 8 72 31 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 2 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 4 1 6 75 8 7 9 93 2 24 8 9 3 2 1 6 4 5 7 5 72 3 52 9 47 8 16 1

5 SUDOKU 3 7 2 4 8 6 6 9

1 2 5 8 3 9 6 7 4

MEDIUM 35 4 7 6 9 5 1 2 39 8

7

6 8

5 2 4

6 9 2 3

anticlockwise. Previous solution:

ANACROSS

4

26 957828361741 8494 272 53351 128 2596 9 8

1 2 5 8 3 9 6 27 4 5 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 35 4 471 66 79 55 81 729993 82 8 172 312448 99 23 215 614 85 67 9 8 8 6 517243 572 93 4758 126 91 35 2 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 49 5HARD 4 1 963754 87 27 598936 21 8 24 8 698 32 2 1 96 347 55 74 5 72735521 98 647482163 19 3

6 96 9 7 7 33 44 2 2 3 5 3 4 52 8 2 8 4 6 28 9 3 6 7 2 9 WORDWHEEL 48 6 5 INCLUDED 8 5 6 7 2 2 5 8 2 SUDOKU 8 2 9 3 7 2 4 8 665 1 MEDIUM 3 4 2 9SUDOKU 6 938 7 4 2 3 1 5 6 1 5 7 82 4 8 2 6 9

I B M E T H E R E B Y A N E E M A R I T A L I I A I S I N U O U S G N H E

ANACROSS

9 3 4 7 2 5 8 6 1 6 8 2 1 9 3 7 5 4 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 5 4 8 9 1 6 3 2 7 2 1 6 5 3 7 4 9 8 3 7 9 4 8 2 6 1 5 1 6 7 3 4 9 5 8 2 4 9 3 2 5 8 1 7 6 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 4 3

HARD

MEDIUM

3

6 9 8 7 4 2 3 1 5 1 25 5 8 8 3 9 6 7 24 5 1 2 9 8 35 4 7 6 9 72 31 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 8 6 1 4 7 3 5 2 9 2 9 5 2 1 6 8 7 4 3 4 1 6 75 8 7 9 93 2 24 8 9 3 2 1 6 4 5 7 5 72 3 52 9 47 8 16 1

4

2 5 SUDOKU 3 7 2 4 8 6 6 1 9

2 9

3

7

11. Network hopes for people who are familiar with the position. No cowboys! (4,3,5) 14. Craze is loud and commercial (3) 16. Rue about exercise. In fact explode! (5) 17. Brer Rabbit’s baby? (3)

ANACROSS ANACROSS

Solve the ana words into the

BARGE IN BERETHY HEY SEAL I SEEM IT NON ITEM NUISOUS TAIL RAM

0800 250 600

pet? (4,2,3,3) 6. Newts up and out? No, not cleaned up yet (7) 7. Work liability (4) 8. Scraggy out below tree bed (6-6) 12. Sweat for former headless nude (5) 13. Gold dig outlook (8)

99

e oreo peso poorer pore pores pose poser poses posse press SSOR prose proses refs repro reproof reps roofer rope roper ore sorer spore

2

cleaned up yet (7) cowboys!

(4,3,5) One 22gone gone to (5)(5) 21.

Let lowest in equal (5) lowest (5) 19.19.

One 22 toseed seed 21. Let in equal LegWork part could be fat, (4) Ted (4) Cattle’s answercommercial to Rubik could 7. liability 14.

Craze22.is loud and 20.20.

Leg part could Ted (4) 22. Cattle’s Rubik 18 19 22.

Eggs.

Some arebe leftfat, we hear beanswer flavour ofto the monthcould (3,4) 8. Scraggy tree bed (6-6) (3)flavour 23.

22.(3) Eggs.

Some areout leftbelow we hear be of the (3,4) You month could have one at the 20 country fair and make a killing!

(3) 12. Sweat for former headless 23. have one at the 16.You Ruecould about exercise.

In fact (5,3) Anon.

In fact soon(5,3) (4) country fair24. and make a very killing!

21 22 nude (5) explode!

(5) 24.

In fact verybaby? soon (4) 13. Gold dig outlook (8) 17. Anon.

Brer Rabbit’s (3) 18. Ova gene errors? Almost sounds 15. Five hundred develop to 23 24 transfer (7) too much! (12) 19. One 22 gone to seed (5) Across 21. Let in equal lowest (5) Down 20. Leg part could be fat, Ted (4)1. Aware of first king at the moment 1. Burgle and go home (5,3) 22. Cattle’s answer to Rubik could 2. Be better than 9 (5) (4) 22. Eggs. Some are left we hear be flavour of the month (3,4) 4. Boswell alternatively could be a 3. Fool dog or the full dog (8) (3) 23. You could have one at the hooter (3) 9. Use toll to do better than 5. Another for theCall road theus: competition (7) country fair and make a killing! (5,3) morning after the hard night 10.

Small map that comes in a 24. Anon. In fact very soon (4) before or just a bit of the family collection (5)

SOLUTION 177 arch arcs arcus a caps carp carpi c chair chairs chap chips chirp chirp crisp crush cups pica PUSHCHAI scaup scrap scri uric

xhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24.

7

O

1

How many wo or more can yo is at least one Each letter ma only once and contain the ce words starting no plurals end Good 20 Very Good 24 Excellent 28+

. Outdo, 4. Owl, 5. Hair of the dog, 6. Unswept, 7. Duty, Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

6 8

E

© THE PUZZLE COMPANY

WORD GO ROUND errs fess foes fore fosse oreo peso poorer pore pores pose poser poses posse press pressor profess PROFESSOR prose proses refs repro reproof reps roofer rope roper ropes rose roses serf sore sorer spore CRYPTIC CROSSWORD Across: 1. Know, 3. Foxhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, 16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18. Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24.

8 6 5

Next.

WORD GO ROUND WORD GO ROUND errs fess foes fore fosse oreo peso poorer pore pores pose poser poses posse press fess foes fore fosse oreo pesoPROFESSOR poorer pore pores poser poses posse Down: 1. Knock off, 2.errs Outdo, 4.

Owl, 5.

Hair of the dog, 6.

Unswept, Duty, pressor profess prose prosespose refs7.repro reproof reps rooferpress rope roper PROFESSOR proses refsOvule, repro reproof reps22. roofer rope roper ropes rose roses serf sore 19. sorer spore 8. Beetle-browed, 12.pressor Exude,profess 13. Prospect, 15.prose Devolve, 20. Calf, ropes rose roses serfCRYPTIC sore sorer spore CROSSWORD Ova. Across: 1. Know, 3. Foxhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, CRYPTIC CROSSWORD 16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18. Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24.

Across: 1. Know, 3.Next.

Foxhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, 16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18.

Overgenerous, Allow, 22.5.Oxo 23. 6.

Field day, 24.

Down: 1. Knock off, 2.21.

Outdo, 4. Owl, Haircube, of the dog, Unswept, 7. Duty, 8. Beetle-browed, 12. Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

Next.

Down: 1. Knock off,Ova. 2. Outdo, 4. Owl, 5. Hair of the dog, 6. Unswept, 7. Duty, 8. Beetle-browed, 12. Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

Ova.

9 8 5 8

WORD GO ROUND errs fess foes fore fosse oreo peso poorer pore pores pose poser poses posse press pressor profess PROFESSOR prose proses refs repro reproof reps roofer rope roper ropes rose roses serf sore sorer spore CRYPTIC CROSSWORD Across: 1. Know, 3. Foxhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, 16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18. Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24.

Next.

Down: 1. Knock off, 2. Outdo, 4. Owl, 5. Hair of the dog, 6. Unswept, 7. Duty, 8. Beetle-browed, 12. Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

Ova.

ed (6-6) ess

R S

ANACROSS ANACROSS

WORD GO ROUND errs fess foes fore fosse oreo peso poorer pore pores pose poser poses posse press

ot

S

pressor profess PROFESSOR prose proses refs repro reproof reps roofer rope roper WORD GO ROUND ropespores rose roses sore sorer spore errs fess foes fore fosse oreo peso poorer pore poseserfposer poses posse press CRYPTIC pressor profess PROFESSOR prose proses refs reproCROSSWORD reproof reps roofer rope roper Across: 1. Know, 3. Foxhound, 9. Outsell, 10. Inset, 11. Know the ropes, 14. Fad, ropes rose roses serf sore sorer spore 16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18. Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24. sse press Next.

CRYPTIC CROSSWORD 1. Knock 2. Outdo, 4. Owl, 14.

5. Hair of the dog, 6. Unswept, 7. Duty, ope roperAcross: 1. Know, 3. Foxhound, 9. Outsell,Down: 10. Inset, 11. off, Know the ropes, Fad, 8. Beetle-browed, 12. Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

16. Erupt, 17. Tar, 18. Overgenerous, 21. Allow, 22. Oxo cube, 23. Field day, 24.

Ova. Next.

Down: 1. Knock off, 2. Outdo, 4. Owl, 5. Hair of the dog, 6. Unswept, 7. Duty,

t mily

WORDGG

, 14. Fad,8. Beetle-browed, 12. Exude, 13. Prospect, 15. Devolve, 19. Ovule, 20. Calf, 22.

Ova. day, 24.

d be a

6 8

3

5 2

L I ANACROSS N ?

4 87 26 with 6 the 1 position.

5 54 498 39 2 17 65938are 2 17familiar 6. Newts up and out? No, not No U 55 636 7D 77461cowboys!

4 3 9 7 3 9cleaned up7yet (7) 2 8 6 28 126 1 9 8 (4,3,5) 3 4 9 5 8 2 3 7 9 4 13 8 ANACROSS 2I 6 14.

1 25Craze 7. Work liability (4) 3 L is loud and commercial 4 4 2 1 176 7 43 49 9 35 (3) 8 25 8 1 7 6 8. Scraggy out below tree bed (6-6) N ?

2 8 former headless 4 9 3 82 52 8 51316.

7 6Rue 12.5Sweat for 6 7 about 1 95exercise.

4 3 In fact BARGE IN nude (5) 9 8 2 5 6 7 1 9 explode!

4 3 4 (5) 2 8 5 ANACROSS ANACROSS 19 817.

6Brer Rabbit’s baby? (3)BERETHY 2 sounds 9 213.

1Gold dig outlook (8) 9 8 15. Five hundred develop to 18. Ova gene errors? Almost HEY SEAL 7 INI SEEM ITtransfer (7) 2 5 too5much! (12)6 BARGE 20 BARGE IN 19.

One 22 gone to seed (5) 21. Let in equal lowest (5) 8 BERETHY 2 7 9 8 NON 21 22 20.BERETHY Leg part could be fat, Ted (4) 22. Cattle’s answer to SEAL Rubik couldITEM HEY NUISOUS 2be flavour of the month 5 4 2 22. Eggs. Some are left we hear I SEEM(3,4) IT HEY SEAL 23. You at TAIL the NON 4oneITEM 6 1 RAM(3) 2 5 7 1 3 3could have I SEEM IT country fair and make a killing! (5,3) NUISOUS 23 24 1. Burgle of firstthan king at the moment hooter (3) and go home (5,3) 9. Use toll 1. toAware do better 24. Anon. In fact TAIL very soon RAM(4) 2. Be better (5) the (4)(7) NON WORDWHEEL ITEM 5. Another forthan the9road competition CRYPTIC CROSSWORD 6 9 8 7 4 2 3 1 5 9 3 4 7 Find 2 the 5 missing 8 6letter1to make a word 4. Boswell alternatively could be a 3. Fool dog or the full dog (8) morning after the hard night 10. Small map that comes in a Down Across hooter (3) 9. Use toll to do better than 1 6 1 2 52 8 3 93 64 7 4 5 6 78NUISOUS 2 1 reading 9WordWheel 3 clockwise 7 5 or4anticlockwise before justforathe bitand of the collection 5. Another road the competition (7) at the moment 1.orBurgle gofamily home (5,3) 1.

Aware(5) of first king morning after the hard night 10.hopes Small map that comes in a pet?

(4,2,3,3) 11.

Network for people who 8 TAIL RAM 3 4 7 6 5 1 2 9 8 7 5 1 8 6 4 2 3 9 2. Bejustbetter than 9 (5) (4) before or a bitout? of the family (5)position. No 6. Newts up and No, not are familiarcollection with the Boswell alternatively could be a 3.

Fool dog the full (8) whocleaned pet?4.

(4,2,3,3) 11. or Network hopesdog for people 97 3 4 9 2 5 1 8 6 10 5 4 8 9 1 6 3E2 D 7 up yet (7) cowboys!

(4,3,5) © THE PUZZLE COMPANY 6.

Newts up and out?

No, not are familiar with the position.

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20 NO 20 W MO IN DE ST LS OC K

at the Covi Sh ow seen as

13-15 March, 2020

ASB Showgrounds, Auckland ww .nz w. s u p e r s h o w. c o

OF W

TIC ON A OM ISSI T AU NSM A TR

ES CL HI VE

Merit RV proudly presents the

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& Family owned land Zea operated in New

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66 Small Road, Silverdale, Auckland | 0800 767 808 | 09 426 7679 | Email: sales@RnRV.co.nz | RnRV.co.nz

THE IDEAL NEW ZEALAND MOTORHOME.

TORHOME MA NU MO

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at the Covi Sh ow seen as

13-15 March, 2020

ASB Showgrounds, Auckland ww .nz w. s u p e r s h o w. c o

LS DE CK O O 0 M N ST 2 20 W I NO

Merit RV proudly presents the

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2008 JAYCO DIESEL 3LTR FD23-01 HR7CQ

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