Vamoose Summer 2018

VOL.4 NO.3 • JUNE/JULY 2018

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GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

Raft wild rivers

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Hear the best concerts Ride more trails Revisit history

THIS

SUMMER Utah’s Essential

FESTIVAL GUIDE

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 1

Adventure by Day

Culture by Night

26 Trailheads.

290 Miles of Trails.

1 Lifetime of Adventure.

3 historic theaters in 1 block.

237 arts events downtown June-Aug.

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Inside

VAMOOSE JUNE/JULY 2018

Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally

8

10

23

FESTIVAL A-GO-GO

Come for a weekend—or stay for a week—to celebrate Utah’s arts, heritage or natural wonders.

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

15

FEASTS 26 MOVABLE Small-town food fests highlight

GHOST STORIES

Rock art of Sego Canyon begs the question: Why here?

Utah’s culinary treasures

By Heather L. King

Story & photos by Jerry Spangler

THAT BIND 29 TIES A visit to Promontory recalls a

CHILD’S PLAY

Six ways to go off-screen with your kid

golden era of unity.

Story & photos by Chris Vanocur

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

18

ELEVATED 32 RIDE Saddle up for a sensory-rich passage

COLORADO WINE WEEKEND

into Utah’s natural wonders

A road trip to Colorado’s Grand Valley gives Utahns a taste of regional wines.

By Vaughn Robison

4 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

SORREL RIVER RANCH

JERRY SPANGLER

NICK COMO

By Nick Como

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VOL.4 NO.3 • JUNE/JULY

CONTRIBUTORS GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

STAFF PUBLISHER

John Saltas

EDITORIAL

EDITOR COPY EDITOR PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTORS

Jerre Wroble Sarah Arnoff Lance Gudmundsen Nick Como, Kathleen Curry, Geoff Griffin, Heather L. King, Vaughn Robison, Jerry Spangler, Chris Vanocur

Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry

travel the world looking for material for their award-winning Travel Brigade Radio Show podcast. Find more of their work at TravelBrigade.com and follow them on Twitter and Instagram @TravelBrigade.

PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC ARTIST

Vaughn Robison Sofia Cifuentes, Brian Plummer, Josh Scheuerman

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Paula Saltas David Adamson, Anna Kaser Bryan Mannos

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Jerry D. Spangler is a professional ar-

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chaeologist and executive director of the Colorado Plateau Archaeological Alliance, a Utah-based nonprofit dedicated to preserving and protecting Utah’s archaeological resources. He is the author of Nine Mile Canyon: The Archaeological History of an American Treasure and co-author of Last Chance Byway: The History of Nine Mile Canyon.

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@VamooseUtah

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Heather L. King writes about food, travel and culture in Utah and beyond. She is the founder of Utah Ladies Who Lunch and a proud Great Dane owner.

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On a mother/daughter road trip to Zion National Park.

A

fter a mild winter and a wet, cool spring that made weather predictions akin to rolling the dice (thanks, global warming), at long last … drum roll, please: Here’s summer! Glad to see you.

Time to blaze out of our stuffy living rooms and spend a laid-back day squeezing produce at a farmers market, dipping our toes into a cool mountain lake or losing our minds at a reggae concert.

It’s also time to tally up our unused leave and book some serious play dates this summer. Otherwise, why call Utah home? It practically begs us to come out and play.

To help us realize our best hopes for summer, Vamoose is bursting at the seams with aspirations waiting to be lived. For starters, in “Festival A-Go-Go” Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry zero in on some of Utah’s most appealing arts, culture and nature festivals. For those with young’uns (and those who never grew up), Griffin and Curry also have come up with six surprisingly easy family-friendly outings that also happen to be wallet friendly (Sorry, Disneyland).

If wine-sipping and bike-riding are more your jam, Nick Como figured out how to combine both in Colorado’s Grand Valley, just a four and a half-hour drive from Salt Lake City and home to the Palisade wine country, Grand Junction dining scene and Western Slope bike trails. As we say, come for a weekend, stay for a week.

While en route to Grand Junction, consider pulling off Interstate 70 at Thompson Springs to ponder the phenomenal Sego Canyon petroglyphs. Located far off the beaten trail, archaeologist Jerry Spangler can only ask, “Why here?”

We all need to eat, right? Then how can you not be utterly charmed by Utah’s many small-town (and uptown) food festivals, as Heather L. King describes in her “Movable Feasts” feature.

In “Ties That Bind,” journalist (and now podcaster) Chris Vanocur does some soulsearching while road-tripping to Promontory, the spot where the pounding of a golden spike almost 150 years ago connected the country not only by rail but by heart and mind.

Finally, for those in an equine state of mind, Vamoose art director Vaughn Robison describes a few ways to gallop off into the sunset in his “Ride Elevated” article.

Summer in Utah sadly has an expiration date. Before you know it, the cold will return, and we’ll have long—perhaps snowy—nights to lament global warming.

But not now. Road trips await. Don’t forget the sunscreen.

Send a resume, links to writing samples and a cover letter to: jerre@copperfieldmedia.com

Jerre Wroble, editor

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 7

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Festival

A-GO-GO

A GUIDE TO UTAH FESTIVALS THAT CELEBRATE ITS ARTS, HERITAGE & SCENIC WONDER

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

S

ummer is the time to take advantage of Utah’s unrivaled outdoor treks. It’s also the season of festivals. From theater to music to Western heritage, Utah towns never seem to run out of reasons to throw a party. Better yet, when you stop by these off-the-beaten track celebrations, you can usually find a great recreation spot nearby.

Check out these 10 Utah summer festivals and their accompanying outdoor options.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 9

THEATER | We are such stuff as dreams are made on UTAH SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL, CEDAR CITY Summer season: June 28-Oct.13, Bard.org

Utah Shakespeare Festival Greenshow

Well into its sixth decade, the Tony Award-winning festival features Shakespeare’s works in an outdoor theater as well as modern works indoors. This year’s theatrical offerings include Henry VI Part One, Othello, The Merry Wives of Windsor, The Foreigner, Big River, The Merchant of Venice, An Iliad, Pearl’s in the House and The Liar, as well as the ever-popular (and free) Greenshow.

If You Go: Iron Gate Inn Bed & Breakfast (100 N. 200 West, Cedar City, 435-867-0603, TheIronGateInn.com) is an 1897 mansion with seven rooms and is easy walking distance from the festival theaters. Guest picks at breakfast include cherry souffle and fresh peach French toast. The Grind Coffeehouse (19 N. Main, Cedar City, 435-867-5333) is a favorite hangout for festival actors and employees, and serves gourmet coffee and fresh-made sandwiches.

UTAH SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL

Outdoor Options: You can find almost as many dramatic vistas close to Cedar City as there are Shakespearean plays. Before and after USF shows, consider a drive to Zion National Park (NPS.gov/zion) and Cedar Breaks National Monument (NPS.gov/cebr).

Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally

OUTDOORS | Up, up and away PANGUITCH VALLEY BALLOON RALLY June 21-24, PanguitchMainStreet.org

The sky’s the limit at this event where dozens of balloons ascend on Saturday and Sunday mornings and the Dusk Balloon Glow takes over the night sky on Saturday. In between, there’s live music, food and events.

Outdoor Options: Bryce Canyon National Park (NPS.gov/brca) and its world-famous hoodoos are just a 30-minute drive from Panguitch.

10 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

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If You Go: Ruby’s Inn (26 S. Main, Bryce Canyon, 435-834-5341, RubysInn.com) has been sitting just outside Bryce Canyon for 102 years. Besides giving you a place to sleep, Ruby’s offers a shuttle to the park, mountain bike rentals, an RV park, general store and two restaurants. Get a flavor of the Old West during the summer at the Cowboy Dinner Show, with live music and a barbecue plate at Ebenezer’s Barn & Grill (110 E. Center St., Bryce Canyon, 435-834-8003, EbenezersBarnAndGrill.com).

HERITAGE | Relive the Old West WESTERN LEGENDS ROUND-UP, KANAB

Western Legends Round-up

Aug. 20-25, WesternLegendsRoundUp.com

Hollywood directors fell in love with the Kanab landscape in the 1920s and have since made over 200 movies in the area. The 20th annual round-up celebrates both Hollywood and Western heritage with music and tours. Sign up for dinner or breakfast with TV and film celebrities such as Rudy Ramos, Bruce Boxleitner, Neil Summers and Don Collier. Also, enjoy the country music of the Bellamy Brothers.

Outdoor Options: To really get the feel of the Old West, sign up to do a four-day, three-night, 60-mile Wagon Train Trek through iconic Western scenery. If you’re not ready to go full pioneer, you can join the trek for one day as a “tenderfoot.” Ride one of their horses or feel free to bring your own! The trek runs Aug. 20-23 and information on signing up can be found on the Round-Up website.

If You Go: Leave it to the pros at the Round-Up’s BBQ Cook-Off, which is sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society as a master’s competition event with top grillers competing for prize money and a trip to the Jack Daniels World Championships.

TORREY | WOMENSREDROCKMUSICFEST.COM

Women’s Redrock Music Festival

Targhee Fest

MUSIC | Music by women, for everyone WOMEN’S REDROCK MUSIC FESTIVAL, TORREY Aug. 10-11, WomensRedrockMusicFest.com

This two-day event enters its 12th year of hosting indie female artists in a small-town setting.

Outdoor Options: The town of Torrey sits just outside Capitol Reef National Park (NPS.gov/care), a geologic “wrinkle” that is nearly 100 miles long.

If You Go: Torrey Schoolhouse Bed & Breakfast (150 N. Center St., Torrey, 435-633-4643, TorreySchoolhouse.com) features airconditioned rooms with full baths en suite in a historic building that dates to 1914. It might be surprising to find a gourmet restaurant specializing in Southwest fusion here, but Cafe Diablo (599 W. Main, Torrey, 435-425-3070, CafeDiablo.com) has a pleasant 2018 summer menu that includes rattlesnake cakes (don’t worry, the snakes are free range), lamb shank braised in tempranillo wine, pomegranate and chipotle-glazed ribs and a jalapeño-melon margarita.

MUSIC | Camp and stamp your feet THE 14TH ANNUAL TARGHEE FEST Grand Targhee Resort, Alta, Wyo. July 13-15, GrandTarghee.com

It’s cooler up here on the west side of the Teton Range. Just 40 miles from Jackson Hole, Grand Targhee’s Targhee Fest brings together music and the mountain lifestyle at 7,800 feet, where you can enjoy performers such as Joe Russo’s Almost Dead, Karl Denson’s Tiny Universe “Eat A Bunch Of Peaches,” Funky Meters and The Wood Brothers.

NOS

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT

Outdoor Options: Take chairlift rides to hiking and biking or swing your clubs at a 9-hole Targhee Village golf course.

If you go: Friday’s concerts run from 4 p.m. to midnight, Saturday’s from noon to midnight and Sunday’s from noon to 8 p.m. Late Night Shows at the Trap Bar & Grill (not included in festival price) go into the wee hours. Tent camping is provided in designated parking lots while small campers can set up in the meadow near the horse corral. Tent camping is also available in the family zone. For tickets, visit Shop.GrandTarghee.com, or phone 307-353-2300.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 11

HERITAGE | A mountain man’s a lonely man CACHE VALLEY MOUNTAIN MAN RENDEZVOUS American West Heritage Center, Wellsville July 20-21, AWHC.org

Travel back in time and check out Traders Row, throw a tomahawk or try the two-man log-sawing competition. Following tradition, women and children can enter the frying pan-toss competition.

If You Go: Great eating opportunities abound in Cache Valley, and that’s just for breakfast. You might buy Cafe Ibis coffee and Crumb Brothers baked goods at grocery stores along the Wasatch Front, but in Cache Valley, you can stop by Caffe Ibis Gallery Café & Deli (52 Federal Ave., Logan, 435-753-4777, CaffeIbis. com) and get a cup of Highlander Grog or head over to Crumb Brothers Bakery (291 S. 300 West, Logan, 435-753-0875, CrumbBrothers.com) for a loaf of polenta jack. If you’re really hungry, head into the canyon to Herm’s Inn (1435 Canyon Road, Logan, 435-792-4321, HermsInn.com) for the 16-inch family-style pancake.

MUSIC | High-altitude jams BEAVER MOUNTAIN MUSIC FESTIVAL, LOGAN

Cache Valley Mountain Man Rendezvous

AMERICAN WEST HERITAGE CENTER

Outdoor Options: There are many great hikes up Logan Canyon, with the most popular being the 4-mile round-trip to the Wind Caves (LoganCanyonHiking.com)

Beaver Mountain Music Festival

Aug. 17-18, SkiTheBeav.com

In the winter, Beaver Mountain is a great place to ski. In the summer, it’s where you’ll find 31 artists playing everything from funk to bluegrass. Summer mountain activities like hiking and mountain biking are also available, or have the kids try the “musical petting zoo,” where they can get hands-on instrument instruction.

Outdoor Options: The mountain resort is only a 20-minute drive from Bear Lake, where you’ll find everything from swimming to paddle boarding to waverunning to boating—all on a body of fresh water covering over 100 square miles in two states.

If You Go: Any trip to this area during the summer isn’t complete until you’ve had a raspberry shake at LaBeau’s (69 N. Bear Lake Blvd., Garden City, 435946-8821). Just look for a giant shake cup on a pole and you’ll find the classic treats in the restaurant underneath. For overnight stays, give “glamping” a try at Conestoga Ranch Glamping Resort (427 N. Paradise Parkway, Garden City, 385-626-7395, ConestogaRanch.com) in a large tent complete with its own bed and bathroom, or round up the wagons (literally) and stay in Conestoga wagons surrounding a campfire.

ARTS & CRAFTS | Pride in our heritage BRIGHAM CITY HERITAGE ARTS FESTIVAL June 9, BrighamCity.utah.gov

This free festival held at the Bill of Rights Plaza (20 N. Main, Brigham City) features heritage and contemporary artists, a quilt and trunk show, music and food trucks. Have your kids bring their bikes so they can decorate and then ride them in the parade.

Outdoor Options: Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge (2155 W. Forest St., Brigham City, 435-723-5887, FWS.gov/bearriver) is where over 500,000 ducks and geese stop by every year. The 80,000 acres feature options for walking and hiking or a 12-mile auto tour.

If You Go: Any trip to this area of the state should be accompanied by several stops along Utah’s Famous Fruit Way on Highway 89 just south of Brigham City (Facebook.com/UtahsFamousFruitWay). Leave plenty of room in your trunk to stock up on peaches, melons, tomatoes and anything else you might want to eat fresh when you get home.

12 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

Brigham City Heritage Arts Festival

MUSIC | Be iron like a lion in Zion REGGAE RISE UP MUSIC FESTIVAL

Reggae Rise Up Music Festival

River’s Edge at Deer Park, Heber City Aug. 24-26, ReggaeRiseUpUtah.com Utah ... Irie, mon! Get ready for a “rebelution” as this three-day festival is scheduled to bring in Steel Pulse, Stephen Marley and many other bands and artists.

Outdoor Options: You can camp out at the festival, which is held at River’s Edge at Deer Park (7000 Old Highway 40, Heber City, 888-754-4049, RiversEdgeAtDeerPark.com) which also has RV spots, cabins and yurts. It sits at the base of Jordanelle Dam, so a full range of water-recreation options are available.

JESS BERNSTEIN

If You Go: Any time you’re in the Heber Valley, a stop at Snake Creek Grill (650 W. 100 South, No. 6, Heber City, 435-654-2133, SnakeCreekGrill.com) is a must. The menu changes regularly depending on what local produce is in season, but keep a lookout for cornmeal-fried red trout with avocado and tomato relish and make sure to save room for a dessert of black-bottom banana cream pie.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 13

CULTURE |

Dance, then, wherever you may be

WORLD FOLKFEST, SPRINGVILLE July 31-Aug. 4, WorldFolkFest.dreamhosters.com

The world is welcome at Utah’s “Art City,” as performing groups from South America to Eastern Europe gather in one place and bring the color and excitement of traditional folk dance and music. If you attend, you are automatically invited to the after party on stage at the end of each night.

Outdoor Options: Fifth Water Hot Springs is located just a half-hour drive away up Diamond Fork Canyon. The 5-mile round-trip hiking trail starts at the Three Forks parking area. Those who make the hike can take a relaxing soak in one of the warm pools.

JENNIFER CARTER

If You Go: There are plenty of great places to eat in Utah County, but the Folkfest also has on-site food vendors, so there’s a good chance you could eat your way around the world in one place.

14 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

World Folkfest

Child’s

PLAY

SIX WAYS TO GO OFF-SCREEN WITH YOUR KID

By Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin

The lazy days of summer? Try telling that to your kids.

School’s out, and without summer activities, they’ll soon be whining about how bored they are. Time for an adventure to get them off their screens and out into the fresh air. If you can do so without breaking the bank, so much the better. Check out these options that connect your kids with nature and fun while keeping money—for the most part—in your wallet.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 15

SPORTS | Take me out to the ballgame SALT LAKE BEES KNOTHOLE CLUB One of Salt Lake City’s best urban, outdoor experiences is attending a Bees game at Smith’s Ballpark. Whether it’s sitting in the stands and looking east past the outfield to the backdrop of the Wasatch Mountains, or taking a blanket to sit on the outfield berm and view the sunset to the west, a trip to the old ball game to watch the AAA affiliate of the Los Angeles Angels can be pretty perfect. The only way to make it better is to get your kids in at a good price. With the Knothole Club, a mere $13 gets kids 12 and under a Bees T-shirt, a ticket to a game, $5 game tickets for the rest of the season and a chance to attend three different youth clinics with Bees players. Baseball fans with kids in tow will also want to take advantage of Monday Smith’s Family Night ($20 for four tickets and four hot dogs), Taco Tuesday (two tacos for $2) and Cyprus Credit Union $1 hot dogs on Wednesdays. Kids can go down to the field after the games on Fridays and Saturdays and run the bases. Smith’s Ballpark, 77 W. 1300 South, SLC, 801-325-2337, SLBees.com

Ogden Music Festival

MUSIC | Utah’s biggest bluegrass music festival OGDEN MUSIC FESTIVAL

SAM CRUMP

June 1-3

Before you ask who’s on the bill for this event, the first thing you need to know is that kids 16 and under get in free. The 2018 roster of more than a dozen bands is highlighted by Lake Street Drive, Steep Canyon Rangers and Mandolin Orange. If your kids play an instrument, have them attend one of the workshops where they can learn from the musicians appearing at the festival. A three-day pass for those over 16 is $75 and you can add on camping at Fort Buenaventura for just $30 to make it a full family weekend. Best of all, there are gigantic dance parties where you can embarrass your kids. Fort Buenaventura, Ogden, 801-513-0657, Ofoam.org

SALT LAKE BEES

Home games run through Sept. 3

NATURE | Roads? Where we’re going, we don’t need roads UTAH’S NATIONAL AND STATE PARKS Utah has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to national and state parks, but you don’t have to be rich to enjoy them. An annual pass for the national parks is $80, and Utah State Parks passes go for $75. Keep in mind, that’s per vehicle, not per person. Everybody you can load into the family roadster gets in for one fee. Some additional fees might apply for camping, etc.

If you have a fourth grader in the house, they can get a free pass to all the national parks, which allows them to visit along with parents at no additional cost as part of the Every Kid in a Park (EveryKidInAPark.gov) program. Check out the state parks events calendar for nearby star parties, moonlit hikes, outdoor yoga, sheep history and fishing tournaments, just to name a few.

NPS annual pass: $80 per vehicle, NPS.gov Utah State Parks pass: $75 per vehicle, StateParks.utah.gov Utah’s national/ state parks

16 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

Salt Lake Bees Knothole Club

Swaner Preserve and EcoCenter

NATURE | Explore alpine wetlands SWANER PRESERVE AND ECOCENTER

UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

Wednesday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m Located just off Interstate 80 exit 145 to Park City, this 1,200-acre preserve and 10,000 square-foot LEED Platinum building with interactive exhibits is free, although a $5 donation per person is appreciated. As an extension of Utah State University, there are tons of educational programs, including a Saturday Morning Nature Walk that runs every weekend throughout the summer from 8:30-10 a.m. The guided tour covers wetlands, native plants and animals. Depending on the day, you might see birds or elk. The EcoCenter is closed Monday and Tuesday. 1258 Center Drive, Park City, 435-649-1767, SwanerEcoCenter.org

Movies on the Mountain

CINEMA | Movie-going in style MOVIES ON THE MOUNTAIN

SNOWBASIN RESORT, RYAN THOMPSON

Mondays from June 25-Aug. 6

Bryce Canyon GeoFest2018

Snowbasin Resort hosts a free family movie night for seven Mondays in the summer. Kids activities start at 4:30 p.m. with bungee trampolines and a climbing wall.

Food ranging from pizza to burgers to barbecue is available to purchase at Earl’s Lodge starting at 6 p.m., with movies starting at dusk. Bring chairs and blankets and do dinner and a movie together all while enjoying fresh mountain air and beautiful views. The film schedule has yet to be announced. 3925 E. Snowbasin Road, Huntsville, 888-4375488, SnowBasin.com

NATURE | Rock of ages BRYCE CANYON GEOFEST2018 Bryce Canyon National Park July 27-28, NPS.gov/brca

NPS

Bryce Canyon is not just one canyon but a series of naturally carved “amphitheaters” filled with rock spires called hoodoos. Learn more about the unique geology of this natural wonder at Bryce Canyon’s 12th annual geology festival. GeoFest is a two-day event that includes ranger-guided hikes, geologist-led bus tours, guest speakers and other family-friendly activities. In addition, this iconic national park provides plenty of outdoor offerings such as camping, hiking, horseback riding and night-sky viewing. Kids 3 years of age and older can come to the Visitor Center to find out how to become a Junior Ranger.

You don’t need to leave the park if you stay at the The Lodge at Bryce Canyon (435-834-8700, BryceCanyonForever.com). Established in 1925, the 114-room facility also has a dining room that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bryce Canyon National Park, UT-63, Bryce, 435-834-5322

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 17

Colorado

WINE WEEKEND A ROAD TRIP TO COLORADO’S GRAND VALLEY GIVES UTAHNS A TASTE OF REGIONAL WINES.

By Nick Como

Utah has almost everything— almost.

The list of things Beehive State lacks is fairly short: an ocean and “wine country”—end of list. Luckily, the few things we lack are usually a half-day’s drive or short flight away. Grand Junction and neighboring Palisade and Fruita are home to a couple dozen wineries. At under a five-hour drive from Salt Lake City, the Western Slope of Colorado is an easy weekend escape, plus it can be enjoyed at a fraction of the lodging and dining costs of Napa and Sonoma.

18 | Vamoose Utah • June/July 2018

SIPS

Palisade’s soil and climate put the town on the map, originally for its ability to produce orchard fruit. Peaches and the like are still a big part of the local economy, and luckily that same combination turned out be great for wine production. Today, Palisade is also home to Peach Street Distillers (PeachStreetDistillers.com) and Palisade Brewing (PalisadeBrewingCompany.com), in addition to a burgeoning wine region. The area is recognized as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) for its wine—which is what we’re here to sip.

Oh, where to start. The map shows about a dozen-and-a-half local wineries within the 20-or-so-mile loop my partner and I plan to pedal. With some local help, we narrow it down to about a dozen. Each winery offers a wide range of white, rosé and red wines, as well as meads and ports, which the Palisade area excels in producing. My favorites (which are mostly reds) are listed below.

Red Fox Cellars This is by far our favorite of the bunch—it has the best wines, as well as a comfortable place to enjoy a glass or two. The tasting room, with garage door-style bays to let in the fresh air and expansive views of Grand Mesa, is an ideal setting, pouring tastes from eight taps. Red Fox serves wine cocktails, fruit wines, cider and, of course, wine. In fact, they were awarded Colorado’s Winery of the Year. 695 36 Road, Unit C., Palisade, 970464-1099 , RedFoxCellars.com  Try Red Fox Cellars’ 2015 Tempranillo Colterris The easternmost winery on our route features grapes grown in the sun and soil of Theresa’s Vineyard on East Orchard Mesa in Palisade. We had the bonus of being offered rosé in a can, among other varietals, which is ideal to save on weight in our pack for the rest of the day’s ride but also for camping, picnics, etc. 3548 E. 1/2 Road, Palisade, Colo., 970-464-1150, Colterris.com  Try Colterris’ 2015 Syrah Two Rivers Winery & Chateau Just steps from our hotel room at the Chateau, we were able to sample many of the wines multiple times. Located in the Redlands area of Grand Junction, this is the westernmost (closest to Fruita) of the wineries. The grounds are beautiful to walk between tall rows of vines. (More on the accommodations below). 2087 Broadway, Grand Junction, 866-312-9463, TwoRiversWinery.com

NICK COMO

 Try Two Rivers’ 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon

Red Fox Cellars

Grande River Vineyards This one is also an easy walk from the Wine Country Inn, the other place we stayed while in Palisade. Nestled at the base of Colorado’s Bookcliffs mountain range, Grande River has great wines and a huge lawn with picnic tables at which to enjoy a bottle. We timed our visit just before sunset to watch the light dance across the Grand Mesa. 787 N. Elberta Ave., Palisade, 970-464-5867, GrandeRiverVineyards.com  Try Grande River’s 2015 Cabernet Franc June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 19

NICK COMO

Laura Como at Grande River Vineyards

GRAND JUNCTION EATS

Having not previously visited downtown Grand Junction, I’m glad this trip brought us to the city’s historic Main Street area, a serpentine, tree-lined roadway home to dozens of locally owned shops, music venues, galleries and eateries. All three restaurants we sampled were huge hits, and we enjoyed strolls around downtown before and after our meals.

Café Sol This casual café with a Southwestern flair serves up giant salads that we enjoyed on their sunny patio overlooking Main Street.

Breakfasts and paninis are available but greens were the perfect call after a final bike ride before driving home. Did I mention the sunny patio? The perfect end to a desert trip.

420 Main, Grand Junction, 970-986-3474, CafeSolGJ.com  Try the Café Sol salad

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Parsnip Risotto Xxxxx xxx X xxxxx and Cassoulet

 Try the deep-fried Redbird natural turkey if you go at Thanksgiving

NICK COMO

 Try Bin 707 Parsnip Risotto and Cassoulet

626 on Rood No trip to Grand Junction is complete without a stop at this unique eatery featuring modern seasonal dining and fine wines from around the world. Indoors has an upscale dining feel, while the vibe is more laidback outside on the Urban Garden Patio. Our server helped us pair several wine flights (Italian, local, etc.) with the different stages of our meal. If wine is your jam, 626 has the best selection and widest variety of options, with great food to boot. 626 Rood Ave., Grand Junction, 970-257-7663, 626OnRood.com

BIN 707 FOODBAR

Bin 707 Foodbar Seasonal and local Colorado dishes are offered here, with an expansive bottle list of beers and wine. We chose this location for our dinner after driving in from Salt Lake City, as its website claims they are open until at least 10 p.m.—perfect for us late arrivers.

The menu is designed to share, so we were able to try about five or six incredible dishes, with the charcuterie being the most memorable. 225 N. 5th St., No. 105, Grand Junction, 970-243-4543, Bin707.com

SLEEP

Welcome. It’s happy hour.

Upon checking into the Wine Country Inn (777 Grande River Drive, Palisade, 970-4645777, ColoradoWineCountryInn.com)—a mere stone’s throw from the Interstate 70 Palisade exit—I heard these magic words: “Welcome! It’s Happy Hour. Complimentary wine is being served.” You don’t normally hear such words in Utah as both happy hours and free wine are illegal in the Beehive. A few other things are also legal just across the border (wink, wink).

Surrounded by vines and picturesque views of Grand Mesa, the Wine Country Inn is a large property that reminded me of a modern version of the lodge in Dirty Dancing—but instead of dancing, the main activity is wine tasting. This central location provides easy pedalling access to any of the two dozen or so nearby wineries. A sizeable bar and cozy restaurant also make for a relaxing stay.

We opted to bike from downtown Palisade to Whitewater Hill atop the mesa and back, hitting about half a dozen wineries on the way, including a lovely stretch on a bike path along the Colorado River. Take it from me, you haven’t lived until you’ve descended a mesa daring gravity on skinny tires and Vbrakes, packing a dozen bottles of wine.

We split our trip into two halves, spending another two nights closer to the mountain biking in Fruita at Two Rivers Winery & Chateau. With about a dozen rooms, the

bucolic Two Rivers is the yin to Wine Country Inn’s yang: each with a distinct experience.

Nestled at the foot of Colorado National Monument, and featuring a tasting room on site, Two Rivers is a perfect home base for engaging in outdoor activities while providing a quiet chateau to return to. Hiking or climbing in the monument, paddling on the Colorado River, mountain biking in Fruita or Grand Junction, or pedaling from the front door on a road bike—it’s all right there.

Both properties include a full breakfast and helpful staff who assist with everything from bike storage to winery recommendations.

RIDES

Fruita is home to the famed Kokopelli Loops trail, with favorites such as Horsethief Bench as well as the ever-growing 18 Road Trails. Further west is Rabbit Valley, perfect for a cruise on Western Rim before driving back to Utah.

Grand Junction has several convenient options, most notably the Lunch Loops, near downtown.

In Palisade, the eponymous Palisade Rim offers some technical riding for the more advanced. We opted to hike it instead and were treated to expansive views of the Colorado River Valley.

Road bikers love Colorado National Monument’s steep climbs and rowdy descent.

LAURA COMO

Nick Como riding Joe’s Ridge, on 18 Road in Fruita’s north desert

Word is getting out about the Western Slope’s wine-tasting adventures. A recent edition of Wine Enthusiast magazine just named the Grand Valley one of its Top 10 Wine Getaways (in the world!) for 2018. Utahns might not be able to lay claim to its own wine-making region (yet), but we can at least enjoy one only five hours away from SLC in neighboring Colorado. À votre santé!

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THIS IS THE PLACE

Ghostly red figures tell a story

GHOST STORIES ROCK ART AT THOMPSON SPRINGS BEGS THE QUESTION: WHY HERE? Story & photos by Jerry D. Spangler

T

hompson Springs—the stretch of Interstate 70 between Green River and the Colorado Border in eastern Utah—with its undulating shades of monotonous beige and gray as far as the eye can see, is arguably one of the dreariest moonscapes anywhere. And most motorists are inclined to race through it as quickly as possible to reach the more colorful climes of Moab, Grand Junction or the San Rafael Swell.

It is hard to imagine stunning beauty and wonder hidden among these clay hills, but one of Utah’s greatest rock-art treasures is tucked a mere 15 minutes off the freeway and is easily accessible to even the wimpiest of vehicles.

Rock-art enthusiasts refer to this collection of painted and etched images as the Sego Canyon Site, although technically they are located in Thompson Canyon just below the point where it merges with Sego Canyon—about seven miles north of the almost-ghost town of Thompson Springs.

I first visited the site in the early 1980s when it was largely unknown except to a few die-hard rock-art lovers and generations of vandals who had desecrated it almost beyond recognition. In the years that followed, the Bureau of Land Management invested tens of thousands of dollars to hire a rock-art conservator who painstakingly removed the graffiti while restoring the mysterious images to their prehistoric glory.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 23

CLIFF WALL PETROGLYPHS The vivid red and white circles may represent the Ancestral Utes

Today, the site features walking trails, a formal parking area, information kiosks, and a cadre of site stewards who monitor and protect it, interacting with a growing flock of visitors who make the short jaunt north of the interstate to marvel at 3,500 years of prehistory on these unimposing sandstone walls.

On the north end, you’ll see a grouping of ghostly red figures, many nearly life-sized human figures executed in a style called Barrier Canyon, named for a canyon in Canyonlands National Park where they are found in abundance. Most archaeologists believe these are evidence of Utah’s earliest hunters and gatherers from about 2000 B.C. to about 400 A.D. As you walk along the trail to the southwest, you’ll notice another cluster of images high on the cliff wall—precisely pecked triangular humans depicted with ornaments and jewels that are reminiscent of the Fremont Complex anthropomorphs found in the Capitol Reef area and somewhat similar to those in the Vernal area far to the north. These

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were probably left by the first farmers in the region between about 600 and 1250 A.D. And then, as you follow the trail to the west, you will see vivid red and white circles, believed to represent the first Ancestral Utes in the region—hunters and gatherers who might have arrived in this region about 1300 A.D. and were still here when the first Euroamerican explorers arrived in the early 1800s.

It’s one location with three cultures, each with a remarkable visual record of their sojourn in this bleak landscape.

As you marvel at the images—and there are hundreds if you pay close attention to the compositions—it is natural to ponder the question, “Why here in the middle of nowhere?”

Archaeologists have some ideas but no definitive answers. The site is located at the mouth of a minor canyon that offers access to the high East Tavaputs Plateau country to the north above and beyond the Book Cliffs that stretch along the east and north side of the highway all the way from Price to Grand

Junction.

The Book Cliffs are not easy to penetrate, and those few locations offering easier access to the high country might have been preferred transportation corridors through all generations of prehistory. Well-known corridors through the Book Cliffs have been documented near Price (providing access to Nine Mile Canyon), near Horse Canyon (providing access to Range Creek), and a short distance east of here through Westwater Canyon, the preferred route of fur trappers in the early 19th century.

But none of these better-known routes have the signatures of three cultures, at least not in such awe-inspiring grandeur.

For reasons archaeologists do not understand, this minor, unassuming location was a magnet for prehistoric peoples, a place where they returned repeatedly to portray their thoughts, their experiences, and their way of looking at the world. There is not much here in terms of foods that could have been harvested, and it would have been a miserable environment to try to raise corn.

SEGO CANYON SITE A magnet for prehistoric peoples

So why here? The answer might require generations of future research. And until the answers can be teased from the archaeological evidence, we must be content to marvel and wonder and appreciate the past for what it is: A wonderland of mystery and uncertainties.

Visiting the Sego Canyon rock-art clusters is remarkably easy. Take I-70 to exit 187 for Thompson Springs exit. Follow the only road through Thompson Springs—now mostly deserted—and continue on the only main road as it winds its way north. The site is next to this main road about seven miles north of the town and is impossible to miss.

There’s a walking trail between the three main clusters of images, but also take the time to wander along the opposite side of the canyon where there are other clusters of oversized red Barrier Canyon images. Some of these are located on private land, so be respectful and observe close by from the road. Plan on about two hours to enjoy the entire site, although it can be experienced in far less time if you are in a hurry (it is also

well suited to young children).

As with all rock-art, remember to never touch the images in any way. And bring a telephoto lens to capture photos high on the cliff faces.

The main site is located on BLM land, although there is precious little on the BLM web page about it. The public has become increasingly fond of this site, and there are dozens of online links to travel reviews and blogs (type in Sego Canyon rock art or Thompson Springs rock art).

Services are quite limited in this area.

There is a gas station/convenience store next to the freeway exit. Haul away your own trash, remember to take plenty of water and treat the past with respect.

Jerry D. Spangler is an archaeologist and executive director of the Colorado Plateau Archaeological Alliance, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving cultural resources on public lands in the West.

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BACKCOUNTRY

Movable Feasts

SMALL-TOWN FOOD FESTS HIGHLIGHT UTAH CULINARY TREASURES

By Heather L. King

No matter where your outdoor travel plans take you this summer,

there’s plenty of al fresco dining opportunities worth building into your schedule. From salmon and onions in Payson to urban chic adventures in Park City and Solitude Mountain Resort to the top of the state for agricultural harvest celebrations of peaches and raspberries, Utah is filled with fresh, local bites sure to please the palate and delight the family.

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Savor the Summit

Not Your Average Dinner Party

SAVOR THE SUMMIT

June 16, 6 p.m.

HEATHER KING

HEATHER KING

Park City’s favorite outdoor dinner party returns to Main Street on Saturday, June 16.

More than 20 restaurants up and down Main Street highlight their respective specialties over the course of the evening. Menu prices range from $75 to $150 per person, with wine and beverage pairings either extra or included, depending on the establishment.

Reservations should be made with individual restaurants. Begin your evening at the High West Spirit Garden enjoying local spirits, wine and beer and live musical performances starting at 5 p.m. Main Street, Park City, ParkCityRestaurants.com

Bear Lake Raspberry Days

World-Famous Berries

BEAR LAKE RASPBERRY DAYS

XXXXXXXXXXXXX

VISIT UTAH

Payson Salmon Supper

Head north to celebrate the harvest of Bear Lake’s famous raspberries—made perfectly sweet in the ideal climate of Bear Lake Valley. Raspberry Days is a three-day festival that typically closes out the end of the month-long raspberry harvest. Weekend activities include a parade, rodeo, craft fair, live concerts, 5K run, pancake breakfast, dances, golf tournament, boat light parade and fireworks— plus all the raspberry shakes you can eat! Stop at a roadside stand on your way out of town for a flat of freshly harvested berries to enjoy on your way home. Garden City, 435-9462197, GardenCityUT.us

The Salmon Run

PAYSON SALMON SUPPER

HEATHER KING

Aug. 3 | 5 to 8 p.m.

HEATHER KING

KLA4067

Aug. 2–4

Celebrating its 64th year, the Payson Salmon Supper has become the not-sosecret small-town event that salmon-lovesr never want to miss. City firemen and medical professionals tend up to 5,000 pounds of Alaskan salmon, cooking it over fruitwoodfueled fires. The fillets are basted with butter and salted on custom-made cooking racks that are then delivered hot to volunteers ready to serve up a full pound of smoky salmon, a baked potato, corn on the cob, a roll and a cookie plus water—all for just $16.

Get there early, the fish sells out every year.

Payson City Memorial Park, 300 S. Main, Payson, 801-358-3357, PaysonUtah.org

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Fight Hunger in Utah

Taste of the Wasatch

TASTE OF THE WASATCH Aug. 5, noon to 4 p.m.

HEATHER KING

HEATHER KING

This 21-and-over charitable event is a delicious way to celebrate summer and help fight hunger in Utah. Taste of the Wasatch features food from dozens of restaurant chefs and owners throughout the state along with an impressive wine selection, cocktails and beer choices—all enjoyed in the natural beauty of Solitude Mountain Resort. Ticket prices are $110 for general admission and $150 for VIP reserved seating. Reserved seating ensures a shaded table in the central tented area, early entry at 11 a.m. and access to special libations. Solitude Mountain Resort, 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon Road, Big Cottonwood Canyon, 801-696-5044, TasteOfTheWasatch.org

Payson Golden Onion Days

Honor the Onion

PAYSON GOLDEN ONION DAYS

SLEEPYNEKO

Experience the many layers of Payson during the 89th annual Golden Onions Days celebration over Labor Day weekend. Commemorating the agricultural heritage of Payson and surrounding areas, the family-friendly weekend includes dozens of events such as concerts in the park, basketball and softball tournaments, a carnival, fireworks, 5K and 10K races, a car show and much more. Highlights around the namesake golden onion involve the Golden Onion and Dutch oven cookoffs and Payson City’s Biggest Onion contest. More information and entry applications are available on the website.

Payson City, 439 W. Utah Ave., Payson, 801-465-5200, PaysonUtah.org

Brigham City Peach Days

Best Peaches in Utah

BRIGHAM CITY PEACH DAYS

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STEVE GREENWOOD/VISIT UTAH

HEATHER KING

Sept. 7-8

Head to the top of Utah for one of the state’s sweetest annual festivals. Brigham City Peach Days started in 1904 as a day off from the harvest and has since become an annual weekend celebrating the abundance of delicious, ripe peaches in Utah. Parades, a car and bike show, a 10K race along with a carnival and vendor booths are hallmarks of the event that happens in the center of the city on Main Street. Top off your visit to Peach Days by picking up some of the more than 40 varieties of peaches that are grown along the Utah Fruitway—on Highway 89 from South Willard to Brigham City. 6 N. Main, Brigham City, 435-723-3931, BoxElderChamber.com

PAYSON CITY

Aug. 31-Sept. 3

Golden Spike National Historic Site at Promontory

Ties That

BIND A VISIT TO PROMONTORY RECALLS A GOLDEN ERA OF UNITY Stories & photos by Chris Vanocur

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 29

Promontory Summit, north of the Great Salt Lake

Lists are overrated.

For starters, many are simply too long. In this age of internet-fueled short attention spans, I find myself losing interest long before most lists end. Or, if I somehow remain focused, the seemingly never-ending array of options overwhelm me. Extensive lists of “places to see” or “foods to eat” fill me with dread. I feel guilty if don’t see or eat everything. I inevitably find myself bewildered by what my dad calls the “tyranny of choices.”

So, when Vamoose asked me to make a list of “newsworthy points of interest” in Utah, I balked. Sure, I could have listed something newsy like a trip to the site of the Mountain Meadows Massacre. Or, maybe, I could have suggested heading out to the Salt Flats to see where speed records are set. I even thought of Sundance Resort. This is where Robert Redford told me about buying the film rights to the book All the President’s Men. But, to be honest, my heart wasn’t in it. The fact is there is only one newsworthy or historical site I really wanted to see and write about: Promontory Summit, the place where America’s transcontinental railroad was joined.

So, stopping only for a tasty, nutritionally challenged meal at the Maddox Family Drive-In (1900 S. Highway 89, Perry, 435723-5683), I made my way out to the Golden Spike National Historic Site (32 miles west of Brigham City, via Utah Highway 83, 435-471-2209, Ext. 29, NPS.gov/gosp). Even

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though it was overcast and blustery, there were already plenty of cars in the parking lot. After spending a few minutes in the gift shop eyeing various train trinkets, I made my way outside to the G-spot … um … the spot where the Golden Spike was hammered into the unifying ground.

I patiently waited for my turn to do what every tourist there does; take close-up pictures of the area commemorating the meeting of the Union and Central Pacific railroads. It’s marked by a silver-colored plaque on a modern-looking railroad tie. It bears the date of the completion of the transcontinental line: May 10, 1869. In the iconic black-and-white photo of that event, there are scores of railroad types toasting the historic occasion with Champagne (it’s not clear if the DABC approved of this alcohol-soaked celebration).

Visiting the first week of April, it was a bit early for peak Promontory season. When things warm up, there are re-enactments of this historic event. But I was able to venture down a short unpaved road to see the refurbished locomotives used in the summer tourist shows. These choo-choos are housed in a nearby maintenance building, hibernating during cold northern Utah winters. Having been fortunate enough to ride trains all over the world, seeing these 1869 replicas was one of the highlights of my visit.

The Golden Spike National Historic Site provides a re-enactment of the last spike being driven into the tie on Saturdays and holidays from early May through the middle of September at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.

But as intriguing as the Golden Spike National Historic Site might be, I didn’t really make this Promontory pilgrimage to see what was there. I went because I’m afraid the true meaning of the site is being lost—specifically, the treasured ideal of a nation coming together.

The National Park Service website calls Utah’s 1869 railroad celebration “… a defining moment in our nation’s history.” This is why the site resonated on my newsworthy list. In my mind, it’s truly hallowed ground, a place where the United States became whole. Just four years after the Civil War ended, Promontory promised peace, prosperity and a unified future.

But as we near the 150th anniversary of the Golden Spike ceremony, I find myself worrying about the health of our nation’s unity. Modern-day politicians no longer appear to be on the same track. They seem to be pulling out the spikes that keep us together. Instead of laying down rail to connect the East and West coasts, California and the U.S. government are currently suing each other.

Of course, I’ve reached an advanced age where I’m no longer naive enough to wholly buy into the Golden Spike myth. My guess is there was plenty of financial chicanery that took place to get the transcontinental railroad built, not to mention whatever indignities thousands of Chinese workers might have endured doing the actual construction.

Still, I find myself wanting to believe in an America where we still work together toward a common goal.

As I left Promontory, I wondered what has become of America’s can-do spirit. The completion of the transcontinental railroad was an incredible and joyous achievement.

Determination and imagination brought together a country and, in so doing, made it stronger. In 2018, however, “infrastructure week” has become a snarky punchline on Twitter.

Perhaps, as instructed, I really should have made a list full of newsworthy Utah sights.

I only went to see one, and it left me feeling slightly wistful. But at least I got an Oreo milkshake from the Maddox Drive-In. I would describe its taste as being truly golden and everlasting.

A replica of “The Last Spike” used for the re-enactment on display at the visitors center

STEAM LOCOMOTIVES Replicas of the Jupiter and No. 119 make demonstration runs daily from early May through mid-October at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 31

MAJOR STREET PET SERVICES

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SADDLE UP FOR A SENSORY-RICH EXPERIENCE OF UTAH’S NATURAL WONDERS

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We are happy to work with any veterinarian, just let your vet know that you have chosen Major Street Pet Services for your pets after life care.

Our facility features arrangement office, goodbye room, merchandise selection room along with a state-of-the-art crematorium.

801-487-2814

majorstreetpetservices.com 1727 Major Street Salt Lake City, UT 84115

Mine Your Very

Own Trilobite

FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY

u-digfossils.com 435-864-3638 Delta, Utah

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A rider overlooks Monument Valley as cars pass on the road below.

“A man on foot, on horseback or on a bicycle will see more, feel more, enjoy more in one mile than the motorized tourists can in a hundred miles.” ― Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

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VISIT UTAH

here’s something about seeing Utah’s famed geography and breathtaking vistas framed between two fuzzy ears that makes the views all-the-more extraordinary. Soaking up Utah’s varied terrains from horseback is a sensory experience that heightens the state’s already stunning views.

You’ll hear the rhythmic squeaking of leather and aspen leaves whispering in the wind. You’ll feel your body swaying in cadence with cautious hoofbeats as you descend steep canyon walls. You’ll inhale the perfume-like scent of horse sweat paired with fresh mountain air and taste the red dirt kicked up from the horse in front of you. This combination that makes horseback riding in Utah such an engagingly rich experience.

Whether you’re looking for an easy day trip, an immersive weeklong adventure or an add-on to a pre-planned vacation, Utah’s outfitter services and guest ranches offers a variety of ways to mount up, hit the trail and enjoy an elevated experience with the state’s natural wonders. Here are a few to keep in mind:

KNOW WHAT YOU’RE SADDLING UP FOR Ask questions about your ride prior to booking. If you’re expecting to gallop off into the sunset or enjoy a more private ride without a group, it might require a specially planned trip that can be arranged when booked in advance.

June/July 2018 • Vamoose Utah | 33

LISTENING Listen to your wrangler. If he or she offers advice for navigating a certain portion of the trail or working with the personality of a certain horse in their string, gladly accept it. Feel free to ask questions of your wrangler, too.

Working out of two locations on the east slopes of the Wasatch Range, Rocky Mountain Outfitters bases their trail rides out of Soldier Hollow in Heber Valley and the stables of Sundance Resort at the foot of Mount Timpanogos. Their guides buck the single-file, nose-to-tail riding trend of most outfitters, and they customize routes based on guest requests. Early risers, sunset enthusiasts and those who don’t fare well in the midday heat can also take advantage of signature sunrise and sundown rides.

Rides from their Soldier Hollow location range from two to four hours and include excursions to the wildflower-filled Crow’s Nest and the terraced waters of the Alpine Loop’s Cascade Springs.

From their Sundance location, rides range from one to two hours and include tours through old-growth aspen groves and the plush pastures of Elk Meadows as well as their most sought-after ride offering breathtaking views of the 200-foot Stewart Falls at the base of Mount Timpanogos.

Looking to add to your adventure once you’ve reached the end of the trail? Rocky Mountain Outfitters also combines riding with rafting, fly fishing and even yoga, as well as offering a traditional chuckwagon dinner on Saturdays. 633 W. Soldier Hollow Drive, Midway, 435-654-1655, RockyMountainOutfitters.com

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CANYON TRAIL RIDES: HORSE HAVEN For the traveler looking to tack on an extra experience at a famed national park As one of the state’s few authorized concessioners of the National Park Service, Canyon Trail Ride’s three locations serve guests at Bryce, Zion and Grand Canyon national parks.

Rides from their Bryce Canyon location are two to three hours long, leading riders through ancient bristlecone pine groves and along the park’s iconic hoodoos, including up-close views of the Wall of Windows, Silent City and The Chessmen formations. From their outpost beneath the towering cliffs of Zion Canyon, riders can choose a one-hour ride along the Virgin River to the feet of the peaks of The Patriarchs or opt for an adventurous three-hour tour along the cactus gardens of Sandbench Trail that culminates with a breathtaking view of the south end of the park. At the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, rides atop surefooted mules range from a leisurely one-hour ride along the rim to a three-hour descent through the naturally built Supai Tunnel to 2,300 feet deep into the canyon itself.

Looking to beat the crowds and secure yourself a spot in the saddle? Book online upward of seven days in advance for any of the three locations. Bryce, Zion and Grand Canyon national parks, 435-679-8665, CanyonRides.com

Riding at Sorrel River Ranch

SORREL RIVER RANCH

ROCKY MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS: NORTHERN TRAILS For the valley-dweller looking to head for the hills and break up the urban routine

Bryce Canyon trail ride

CANYON TRAIL RIDES

Stewart Falls and Mount Timpanogos

TIPPING Don’t be shy about tipping your guides.

For most wranglers, this is a seasonal job that’s part of the service industry.

SORREL RIVER RANCH: RED ROCK RIDES For the R&R-oriented traveler wanting a fullservice resort experience with a Western twist Situated on the banks of the Colorado River northeast of Moab, the Sorrel River Ranch Resort and Spa offers full-service resort amenities in the heart of rugged redrock country. Guests can enjoy views of iconic mesas from horseback in the morning, return to the ranch to indulge saddle-sore muscles with spa treatments and then cap off the day with a gourmet farm-to-table dinner from the restaurant’s seasonal menu.

Before hitting the trail, guests can take a 30-minute lesson to learn the basics or brush up on old skills. Rides through the 10,000-acre ranch range from one to oneand-a-half hours and offer trails and terrain through the secluded Ida Gulch, along the towering Parriott Mesa and on to views of Convent Butte with the snowy peaks of the La Sal Mountains in the distance.

Want to ensure you’ve earned your keep for ranch’s luxurious experiences? Head down to their stables, where wranglers will hand you a pitchfork and let you go to work feeding horses. Highway 128, Mile 17, Moab, 435-259-4642, SorrelRiver.com

Last

LOOK

An afternoon mountain ride near Park City

SORREL RIVER RANCH

GET OUT, GET GOING AND JUST GO

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