Devour Utah, May 2020

VOL. 6 NO. 5 • MAY 2020 • HOME-GROWN RECIPES

FREE COPY

Homegrown

RECIPES PROUDLY MADE IN UTAH

Devour Utah • may 2020 1

Contents

Starters

7. GOOD KARMA RESTAURANT: HUMMUS BY KATIE ELDRIDGE 9. FOOD CRITIC TED SCHEFFLER: CAPRESE SLIDERS 10. LAZIZ KITCHEN MOUDI SBEITY: GARBANZO AND EGGPLANT FATTEH BY DARBY DOYLE 11. HIGH WEST DISTILLERY CHEF MICHAEL SHOWERS: DEVILED EGGS BY AIMEE L. COOK 12. ALL YOU CAN GREEK COOKBOOK AUTHOR ELENI SALTAS: VEGETARIAN DOLMADES

Soups

15. BLACK SHEEP CAFÉ CHEF MARK MASON: NEW MEXICAN/NAVAJO POZOLE VERDE BY AIMEE L. COOK 17. CHIMAYO RESTAURANT CHEF ARTURO FLORES: GRANDMA’S TORTILLA SOUP BY AIMEE L. COOK 18. HARMONS CHEF CALLYN HARDING: SCALLOP & CLAM CHOWDER AND LOBSTER BISQUE BY JEN HILL 20 THE SOUP KITCHEN: CHEESE BROCCOLI SOUP BY KATE PAPPAS 21. HERBALIST MERRY LYCETT HARRISON: ESSAY SOUP’S ON IN MOAB

Breads and Pasta

22. CAPUTO'S MARKET AND DELI CEO MATT CAPUTO: GO-TO PASTA BY JULIA LYON 24. HARMONS: BREAD OF VIKINGS BY MAYA SILVER 25. DIANE HARTFORD, BLOGGER AT HELLO FUN SEEKERS: PIZZA DOUGH FOR THE GRILL 26. ALL YOU CAN GREEK COOKBOOK AUTHOR ELENI SALTAS: DAKOS (CRETAN RUSK) 27. RADIANA ANGELILLI: LA NONNA'S PASTA BY DARBY DOYLE

Grill It and Add a Salad

29. HERBALIST MERRY LYCETT HARRISON: SIZZLIN' SEASONINGS: HERB-MARINATED CHICKEN OR SHRIMP, BOLD FRESH-HERB RUB 30. DARBY DOYLE, BLOGGER AT A BOURBON GAL: GRILLED RAINBOW TROUT WITH CHARRED LEMON 32. FORMER CITY WEEKLY CIRC MANAGER LARRY CARTER: BEER-CAN CHICKEN BY JERRE WROBLE 33. FOOD WRITER/PERSONAL CHEF REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ: SUMMER SALADS • SIMPLE CREOLE TOMATO & CUCUMBER SALAD • CUBAN PINEAPPLE AVOCADO SALAD • JULIA CHILD’S FENNEL SALAD • COLUMBIA’S ORIGINAL 1905 SALAD

35. HERBALIST MERRY LYCETT HARRISON: HERB-INFUSED VINEGARS

Tasty Main Courses

37. PORCH/ELEVO CHEF JENNIFER GILROY: CURRY LIME PRAWNS BY AIMEE L. COOK 38. SALT & SMOKE MEATS CHARCUTIER FRODEBERT “FRODY” VOLGGER: RAHM SCHNITZEL BY DARBY DOYLE 39. KEEP IT REAL VEGETABLE FARMER TYLER MONTAGUE: GARLIC SCAPE PESTO WITH CARROT NOODLES BY AIMEE L. COOK

40. FLASH IN THE PAN COLUMNIST ARI LEVAUX: A MOLE TO REMEMBER 41. TUSCANY CHEF ADAM VICKERS: PASTA PRIMAVERA FOR TWO BY JERRE WROBLE 42. FAV BISTRO OWNER ANNY SOOKSRI: BASIL STIR FRY WITH CHICKEN MINCE BY JERRE WROBLE

SWEET treats

44. AMOUR SPREADS: JAM-FILLED EBELSKIVERS (BREAKFAST DISH) BY DARBY DOYLE 45. FOOD WRITER HEATHER MAY: PEACH CARAMEL PIE 46: FORMER DEVOUR UTAH COPY EDITOR SARAH ARNOFF: FIG AND PEAR PIE 47. NORMAL CHEF ALEXA NORLIN: ICE CREAM SANDO BY DARBY DOYLE 49. JOHN RASMUSON: LAST BITE GROW YOUR OWN

2 Devour Utah • May 2020

Devour Utah • may 2020 3

from the editor

That Smells Delicious

STAFF Publisher PETE SALTAS Edi torial

Editor JERRE WROBLE

Contributors SARAH ARNOFF, AIMEE L. COOK, (past and present) DARBY DOYLE, KATIE ELDRIDGE, MERRY LYCETT HARRISON, DIANE HARTFORD, JEN HILL, ARI LEVAUX, JULIA LION, HEATHER MAY, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, KATE PAPPAS, JOHN RASMUSON, TED SCHEFFLER, ELENI SALTAS, MAYA SILVER

Production

Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER

Business /Office

Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS

Circulation

Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO

VOL. 6 NO. 5 • MAY 2020 • HOME-GROWN RECIPES FREE COPY

Homegrown

RECIPES PROUDLY MADE IN UTAH

Cover illustration by Derek Carlisle Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour Utah are available for $4.95 at the Copperfield Media offices located at 175 W. 200 South, Ste. 100, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-716-1777 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing

Copyright 2020 All rights reserved

@DevourUtah

4 Devour Utah • May 2020

@DevourUtah

@DevourUtah

M

ay 1 heralds the “reopening” of Utah, after social-distancing measures were put in place for the past six weeks to stem the spread of coronavirus. Most of us are now rarin’ to get out and dine at our favorite places.

But prepare for a brave new world. Owners now have to abide by myriad regulations that safeguard employees and customers from COVID-19. Some need to reconfigure their seating, create disposable menus and implement staggered reservations and arrival times, all while training their staff to serve food while masked, gloved and at a distance. Oh, and did we mention they might have to deal with fluctuations in the food chain?

That doesn’t mean they aren’t up to the challenge. Many eateries will open for sit-down dining on May 1, with bells on. We hope you'll be supportive. They need us to return to them, patiently and sans attitude. Save your Yelp reviews for another day.

And if it takes a minute for them to work the kinks, we do have a Plan B. It’s called home cooking! But not just any home cooking, certainly not the pandemic comfort food we created while raiding our cupboards under the stay-at-home directive. With the help of local experts, the home cooking we’re suggesting will be anything but lame. Or tame.

It dawned on us that over the course of covering the local food scene for six years, Devour Utah has amassed a coveted trove of recipes provided by local chefs, cooks and food writers we know and love. Our art director, Derek Carlisle, scoured our archives to round up a collection of Devour Utah’s most delectable dishes.

We’re pleased to present this online-only issue of Homegrown Recipes, with 33 previously published recipes, including starters, soups, breads, pasta, grilled dishes, salads, entrees and desserts.

You may recognize present and past Devour writers and editors as well as a few chefs who’ve moved on to new ventures. A number of writers are credited with “compiling” recipes— harder than it sounds since chefs tend to keep their methods in their heads, not on paper.

By the time you master these dishes, it’s our hope that COVID-19 will be a dim, distant memory, and you will be among the most popular cooks in your circle. And that the one thing you’ll hear over and over is: “Umm! That smells delicious!” ❖ —Jerre Wroble

contributors

Oh, Food Writers, Where Art Thou?

What do you call a food writer with no restaurant to dine in or food dishes to write about? Lonely, forlorn, anxious … hungry? We dare say our writers, like many of you, learned the art of improvising meals as they stared down what they had in their pantry. And, as their means allowed, some continued to patronize eateries that stayed open for takeout and delivery during the pandemic closures. Read about their socially distant lives here: Aimee L. Cook: I’ve been perfecting the sourdough starter and, thus, sourdough bread. Craving HSL’s General Tso cauliflower and attempting to keep updates on my Instagram stories of restaurants goings on.

Mika Lee: With spring in full swing and time to kill, I found that foraging for mushrooms and herbs has relieved the humdrum of social isolation. My favorite homemade dish has been fettuccine bechamel with wild morels. With my new tea service, Honey Teahive, I’ve been experimenting with new flavored desserts. We deliver artisan macarons and celebration cupcakes right to our customers’ doorsteps.

Carolyn Campbell: I became brave enough to try out my new Instant Pot to make macaroni and cheese. It turned out great, but nowhere near as wonderful as the turkey steak and homemade rolls from Maddox Ranch House that I’m craving.

Alex Springer: I’ve been honing my baking skills, mainly with all the leftover fruit I don’t eat. Lots of banana bread and apple crisp. My 2-year-old has joined me on many baking adventures and has gotten pretty good at mixing ingredients for me. I crave good barbecue like the smoked meatloaf from Pat’s on a daily basis.

Brooke Constance White: I’ve been teaching my fiancé how to bake. We made salted chocolate chip cookies loosely based on Caputo’s recipe. They weren’t quite as good but a close second. We’ve also created some interesting meals based on what we have in the fridge/pantry such as turkey taco mac ‘n’ cheese!

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Rebecca Ory Hernandez: I’ve been making lots of comfort food from my childhood.

Made some daube, slow-roasted pork roast, chicken stock after roasting chicken and built a bigger garden than usual. We order takeout from local Ohana Sushi in our neighborhood and usually wait two hours because they are so busy. And finally, I’m fermenting my own kombucha, kefir and cultured vegetables. Making my own kefir cheese. It’s delicious. Craving? Sharing my food! Hugs! Craving taste: Somi’s calamari with jalapeño and their short ribs.

Darby Doyle: I miss the camaraderie of our neighborhood bars and their bartenders.

Having not gone to the liquor store in a good long while, I’ve been playing a bit of Chopped: The Home Bar with ingredients on hand. An adaptable favorite: the Old Fashioned. Pick 2 ounces of a sturdy base spirit—whiskey, rum, barrel-aged gin, cognac, etc.—and stir it up with a hint of sugar and a dash or two of whatever bitters you’ve got on hand. Add a bigass ice cube and I “almost” feel like I’m at one of my favorite watering holes, like Water Witch or The Rest.

Heather King: I’ve tried to support a local restaurant via takeout at least once a day.

Almost everyone has mentioned how supportive their neighbors and customers have been. Most impressive presentation via to go? Tonkotsu ramen at Kobe.

Megan Wagstaff: Lately I’ve been trying my hand at various curry recipes, which are great vehicles for using up leftover produce combined with pantry staples. Luckily, I still have my “day job” and can work from home, so I’ve been supporting local restaurants and coffee shops offering takeout. If you’re financially able to help a local business, do it! ❖

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Devour Utah • may 2020 5

SEE YOU SOON

TRADITIONAL LEBANESE & MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE

HALAL • VEGAN • VEGETARIAN CATERING AVAILABLE 1326 E. 5600 S. SLC (801) 679-1688 BEIRUTCAFE.COM 6 Devour Utah • May 2020

starters

Good Karma Restaurant

Hummus

PHOTOS AND RECIPE COMPILED BY KATIE ELDRIDGE

Ingredients ¼ cup fresh garlic (minced) 2 cups organic garbanzo beans (rinsed and soaked for 2 hours) ½ cup tahini (sesame paste) ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ½ cup hot liquid from cooked garbanzos 2 cups olive oil 3 tablespoons pink salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Directions Drain the soaked organic garbanzo beans. Place the garbanzo beans in a pressure cooker with 4 cups of water. Cook the garbanzo beans for 45 minutes or until they split and become soft.

Drain the garbanzo beans, and reserve the liquid.

Allow garbanzo beans to steam dry for ½ hour.

Turn on a food processor fitted with the steel blade and drop in the garlic and olive oil. Process the garlic until it is minced. Add garbanzo beans, tahini and lemon juice to the food processor and process until hummus is pureed and smooth. Add salt and pepper.

If the mixture is too coarse, add additional water from the cooked garbanzos. Continue to process until smooth.

Adjust seasoning, and serve chilled or at room temperature with pita bread. ❤ Serves 12 Good Karma’s Instant Karma hummus is in demand by customers both at the restaurant and at select retail outlets such as The Market in Park City. Or, you can just whip up a batch at home!

GOOD KARMA RESTAURANT | 1782 PROSPECTOR AVE. | PARK CITY | 435-658-0958

Devour Utah • may 2020 7

!

This Not

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801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com

MORE THAN JUST BARBECUE

3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com Best

of Utah

2015

8 Devour Utah • May 2020

starters

Caprese Sliders RECIPE AND PHOTOS BY FORMER DEVOUR EDITOR TED SCHEFFLER

I

've always loved Italian caprese salads, with their basic components of ripe roma tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and fragrant, fresh basil leafs. Recently, it occurred to me that maybe the same caprese combo—plus beef—would make an interesting slider.

So, I created a caprese-type beef slider. And, I have to say, it was much better than I'd expected.

I don't list exact amounts here, since obviously you could make a couple sliders or a couple dozen, depending on your needs. However, using one pound of meat produces about 9-12 sliders, depending on their size.

Ingredients: 1 pound ground beef or your favorite slider blend. I like to grind my own beef using a ratio of 85 percent chuck and 15 percent sirloin. You can make turkey, lamb, chicken, veggie or any other type of sliders using this basic formula.

1-2 tablespoons dried breadcrumbs Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese Fresh ripe tomatoes, preferably roma, sliced Fresh burrata or mozzarella cheese, sliced Fresh basil leafs—about a dozen Olive oil Slider buns Garlic aioli (optional) Directions Place the ground meat in a large bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and Parmesan cheese to the ground meat. Fold gently into the meat until wellblended.

Form the meat mixture into 9-12 slider patties. You can do this by hand. My wife bought me a slider making kit from Sur La Table, which I use here.

I can’t say I really recommend it, though, as the meat tends to stick to the implements.

Sometimes just using your Godgiven hands is best!

Brush the slider buns lightly with olive oil and toast briefly in a 400 degree Fahrenheit oven for 3-4 minutes.

Using a pre-heated outdoor grill or skillet indoors, grill the sliders on both sides (in batches, if necessary), until cooked the way you like—rare will take just a minute or less on each side if the sliders are thin.

Place the cooked slider patties on the toasted buns, followed by slices of mozzarella or burrata, tomato and basil.

I like to dress my sliders with a little garlic aioli, but you can eat them as they are or add whatever additional dressings or condiments you’d like. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 9

COURTESY PHOTO

starters

JOHN TAYLOR

Moudi Sbeity's delectable fatteh

Laziz's Ga rba nzo a nd Eg gpla nt Fat te h COMPILED BY DARBY DOYLE

P

opular in Egypt, Ingredients Jordan, Palestine, 1 cup plain yogurt Lebanon and Syria, ½ cup tahini fatteh is a craveable ¼ cup fresh lemon juice appetizer as well as filling ½ cup water side, casserole or brunch 3 cloves garlic (divided use) dish. At Laziz Kitchen, 1 tablespoon dried cumin Moudi Sbeity combines pepper/salt to taste the traditional flavors of 1 large eggplant his native Lebanon with 1 tablespoon olive oil quintessential comfort 2 cups (approx.) pita chips foods. This recipe makes 2 15½-ounce cans for a savory do-ahead dish garbanzo beans for large gatherings and is (liquid reserved) hearty enough to keep the 1 tablespoon butter hungriest vegetarian guests ½ cup pine nuts satisfied as a main offering. ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves, “The casserole does not roughly chopped need to be baked,” Sbeity ½ teaspoon sumac says, but some cooks prefer ¼ cup pomegranate arils it served hot. The equally delicious option of serving Makes 6-8 servings at room temperature makes it perfect for potlucks.

10 Devour Utah • May 2020

Directions If serving hot, preheat oven to 350 degrees.

To a non-reactive medium bowl combine yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, water, one clove mashed garlic and cumin. Add salt and pepper to taste, mix well and set aside.

Remove stem end and slice eggplant lengthwise into long 1/3-inch slices. To a large skillet over medium heat, add olive oil. Fry the eggplant slices on both sides until golden brown.

In a saucepan over medium heat, gently boil garbanzo beans with their liquid and two cloves chopped garlic.

To the bottom of a casserole dish, add a layer of pita chips. Lightly sprinkle

some of the garbanzo bean cooking water on top to slightly soften.

Layer the eggplant slices evenly over the pita chips.

Drain the garbanzo beans and layer beans on top of the eggplant.

Spread the yogurt-tahini mixture evenly over the top of the casserole.

If desired, bake casserole for 15-20 minutes, or until bubbly.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add pine nuts and toss to coat with butter, toast until brown and fragrant.

Top the casserole evenly with toasted pine nuts, parsley and pomegranate arils (if in season). Dust with dried sumac. ❤

LAZIZ KITCHEN | 912 S. JEFFERSON ST. | SLC | 801-441-1228 | LAZIZKITCHEN.COM

JOHN TAYLOR

Chef Michael Showers of High West Distillery

JOHN TAYLOR

starters

High West Dist illery's Deviled Eg gs COMPILED BY AIMEE L. COOK

E

xecutive chef Michael Showers joined High West in 2018. After a stint as corporate chef and seafood specialist for Nicholas & Co. , Showers opened the DeJoria Center in Kamas in 2015, serving as both executive chef and food and beverage director. Now leading the team at High West Distillery, Showers is charged with pairing High West’s cuisine with their award-winning whiskeys. His spicy deviled eggs are just the right touch to whet your appetite, but enough to tide you over until the meal is served.

Ingredients 1 dozen hard-boiled eggs 1 cup mayonnaise ¾ cup Dijon mustard 1 finely diced jalapeno 1 ½ teaspoons toasted and ground cumin 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 4 tablespoons malt vinegar 4 strips cooked bacon ½ cup jalapeño jelly (store-bought will do) Serves 12

HIGH WEST DISTILLERY | 27649 OLD LINCOLN HWY. | WANSHIP | 435-649-8300 | HIGHWEST.COM

Directions Separate yolks from whites and reserve whites on a single layer tray.

In a mixer, place yolks, mayo, mustard, jalapeño, cumin, smoked paprika, salt and vinegar.

Mix on slow till all ingredients are incorporated and can pass through pastry bag. Place in bag.

Cook bacon at 375 degrees for 7 minutes.

Pull bacon and glaze with jalapeño jelly and cook for 3 minutes more.

Gently pipe yolk mixture into whites just barely coming above the top.

Once bacon has cooled, break or cut into little triangles and place 1 piece on each egg in the deviled mixture.

Garnish with chive and paprika Enjoy. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 11

COURTESY PHOTO

starters

ELENI SALTAS

Vegetarian dolmades by Eleni Saltas

Vegeta ria n Dolmades

D

olmades—the bite-size Greek appetizer wrapped with grape or cabbage leaves— are wonderful in their versatility. Stuff the leaves with a ground meat mixture (lamb, beef or pork), or go the vegetarian route and create a flavorful rice and herb combination for the filling. Top dolmades with a tomato sauce or avgolemeno (egglemon sauce), leave them plain, or serve alongside tzatziki (Greek yogurt dip) for dunking.

12 Devour Utah • May 2020

Ingredients 50 fresh grape leaves (or a jar of grape leaves) 1 cup Uncle Ben’s rice, uncooked 5 ripe tomatoes, grated 1 yellow onion, finely chopped ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ½ cup fresh mint, chopped ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped ¼ cup fresh dill, chopped Salt, pepper & dried oregano to taste ½ cup lemon juice ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil water

BY ELENI SALTAS, AUTHOR OF ALL YOU CAN GREEK COOKBOOK

Directions Rinse grape leaves and remove stems. Drainin a colander.

In a large bowl, combine rice, tomatoes, onions, mint, parsley, dill and the olive oil.

Season generously with salt, pepper and oregano.

To roll dolmades, place one leaf (shiny side down) on rolling surface. Place 1 tablespoon of mixture near the stem end. Don’t overfill leaves as rice expands when cooked.

Fold lower part of leaf over filling, and then fold the left and right sides into the center.

Then finish by rolling tightly to the tip of the leaf. Continue until all the mixture is used.

To cook dolmades, line the bottom of a pot with vine leaves (use those that are too small or torn). Pack dolmades stem-side down tightly in pot,

side by side. Repeat process for each layer and drizzle with olive oil. Continue layering until pot is filled. Cover with lemon juice and water.

Place an inverted dinner plate on top to hold them in place while they cook. Cover pot and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour on medium heat.

Once rice is cooked and liquids are absorbed, remove dolmades from the pot and let them cool for 20 minutes.

Serve cold as an appetizer or hot as an entrée. Squeeze a lemon over the dolmades before serving.

Note: If using fresh grape leaves, blanch each leaf in boiling water for 5 seconds.

Then, transfer to cold water, rinse and allow them to drain in colander. This will remove the natural bitterness. ❤ ALL YOU CAN GREEK | ELENISALTAS.COM/COOKBOOK

Devour Utah • may 2020 13

20 1 8

WE ARE OPEN FOR BUSINESS AND HAVE ONLINE ORDERING WITH CURBSIDE PICK UP, OR CALL (801-906-0369) TO PLACE ORDER AND PROVIDE YOUR CC# INFO OVER THE PHONE. PICK UP WILL BE IN FRONT OF OUR DELI PATIO, IN THE PARKING LOT. WE WILL CONTINUE TO MONITOR THE CURRENT PUBLIC HEALTH SITUATION CAREFULLY AND ADJUST ACCORDINGLY. THANKS FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT AND BUSINESS.

NEW EXPANDED HOURS 2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM TUES - SAT 8:00 A.M. - 8:30 P.M. @ FELDMANSDELI BREAKFAST LUNCH AND DINNER TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369

14 Devour Utah • May 2020

STEVEN VARGO

soups

Bla ck Sheep Cafe Chef Ma rk Ma son

Na vajo Pozole Verde COMPILED BY AIMEE L. COOK

Ingredients 2-3 lbs. boneless pork butt 2-3 tbsp. vegetable oil 1 large yellow onion (medium diced) 2 tbsp. dried Mexican oregano 1 tbsp. ground cumin 2 qt. low-sodium chicken broth 1 qt. water 2 4-oz. cans diced fire-roasted green chiles 6 cloves garlic 1 cup water 1 29-oz. can hominy salt flour tortillas Garnish (all are optional): red cabbage (shredded) red radish (thin sliced) jalapeño (thin sliced) sour cream lime wedges

Directions Cut the pork into 1-inch cubes and set aside. If using bone-in pork, trim the meat from the bone and simmer bone along with the pork. (Remove bone before serving.)

Heat the oil in a large pot and sear pork over medium-high heat until browned. Sear in batches if necessary as to not crowd and steam the pork.

Do not cook the pork completely through. Remove the pork using a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add diced onions to the pot and cook until softened and browned, reducing heat to medium if necessary.

Crush Mexican oregano in hands and add it to the onions. Add ground cumin. Stir constantly for 30 seconds until fragrant to “bloom” flavors. Add 1 tbsp. vegetable oil if needed.

Add the water and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Add the reserved

BLACK SHEEP CAFE | 19 N. UNIVERSITY AVE. | PROVO | 801-607-2485 | BLACKSHEEPCAFE.COM

pork and accumulated liquids, along with the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 2 hours. Check liquid level occasionally, adding water if necessary.

Lightly toast garlic cloves in a small sauté pan until light brown and fragrant. Place the garlic in a blender.

Add 1 4-oz. can of green chilies to the blender. Add 1 cup water and blend to make a quick sauce. Set aside.

After the pork has cooked for 2 hours, add the green chile sauce, remaining 4-oz. can of diced green chilies and the can of hominy (including liquid) to the pot. Add water if necessary to reach desired consistency. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Add salt to taste.

Transfer to bowls and top with (optional) garnishes and squeezes of lime. Serve with warmed flour tortillas. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 15

16 Devour Utah • May 2020

Chimayo Restaurant chef Arturo Flores' recipe

JOHN TAYLOR

soups

Grandma Flores’

Tort illa Soup

JOHN TAYLOR

JOHN TAYLOR

COMPILED BY AIMEE L. COOK

Ingredients 1 jalapeño pepper 4 Anaheim chile peppers 1 poblano chile pepper 12 tomatoes 1 yellow onion 3 garlic cloves 12 tostada-sized corn tortillas 1 small bunch cilantro 8 quarts chicken stock

Directions Grill jalapeño, Anaheim and poblano peppers to char the skins.

Place peppers in a container and cover with plastic wrap until the skins loosen.

Peel and seed the peppers and set them aside.

Oven-roast the tomatoes until the skins blister and loosen. Peel and set aside.

In a 10-quart stock pot, sauté onion and garlic until lightly browned.

Add peppers and tomatoes, sauté to blend flavors.

Add corn tortillas, cilantro and chicken stock. Bring to a slow boil.

Once boiling, carefully transfer to a blender (in batches, if necessary) and purée until well blended.

Return soup to pot, simmer to blend flavors, then strain.

Garnish with spiced tortilla strips, guacamole and Oaxaca cheese (can substitute mozzarella cheese). *Arturo’s Secret Ingredient: A lotta love! ❤

CHIMAYO RESTAURANT | 368 MAIN ST. | PARK CITY | 435-649-6222 | CHIMAYORESTAURANT.COM

Devour Utah • may 2020 17

Harmons Chef Callyn's lobster bisque

BOSTONCHOWDAMAILORDER.COM COURTESY PHOTO

Smok y Lobster & Corn Bisque COMPILED BY JEN HILL

A

bisque is a smooth, velvety seasoned soup that uses a strained broth of crustaceans such as lobster, langoustine, crab, shrimp or crayfish.

To make this delicious smoky, flavor-packed lobster bisque at home, Harmons Cooking School Chef Callyn recommends special ordering whole lobsters, or just use lobster tails, she says.

Stock Ingredients 2 tablespoons avocado oil 2 chopped lobster shells (bodies and tail shells) 3 whole, fresh corn cobs cut into quarters ½ cup chopped fennel ½ cup chopped celery 2 chopped shallots 1 chopped leek (white and green) thoroughly cleaned ½ cup chopped parsnips sprig of thyme 6 whole black peppercorns 1 cup dry vermouth 8 cups water

18 Devour Utah • May 2020

Bisque Ingredients 3 cups fresh corn kernels 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups half & half 1 tablespoon smoked paprika Lobster tails, raw and chopped into 1-inch chunks Fresh chives, tarragon and parsley for garnish (optional) Salt and pepper to taste Directions Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat. Add lobster shells and corn to the pot. Sauté until fragrant.

Add fennel, celery, shallots, leeks, parsnips, thyme and peppercorns to the lobster shell mixture. Continue to stir until vegetables have softened and begun to turn golden.

Deglaze your stock pot by adding the dry vermouth, scraping off any bits that might have attached to the bottom of your pan. Allow the vermouth to boil and be absorbed by the vegetable mixture.

Once the vermouth has been absorbed, add water. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer for 1 hour, covered.

Strain stock, reserving the liquid and disposing of the solids.

In an enamel-bottom pot, heat the

butter until bubbling and golden, not brown. Add corn kernels and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove half of the sautéed corn and set aside.

Add the reserved lobster stock to the pan with the corn and blend with an immersion blender until creamy.

Add half & half and smoked paprika and heat to a low simmer.

Add lobster chunks and reserved corn to the bisque and continue to simmer until lobster is just cooked through, about 10 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with your choice of fresh herbs. I prefer a combination of chives, parsley and tarragon.

Chef Callyn's Tips When cleaning the lobster tails, use kitchen shears to cut down the inside of the tail. The shell lining on the underside is very thin and easy to cut through.

Once a cut has been made, with both hands the tail can be cracked, exposing the meat.

Make a double batch of the lobster stock and freeze for another soup or sauce. This will last for up to six months in the freezer and three to four days in the refrigerator. ❤ HARMONS GROCERY | MULTIPLE LOCATIONS | HARMONSGROCERY.COM

soups

COURTESY PHOTO

Harmons Chef Callyn’s scallop & clam chowder

Scallop & Cla m Chowder COMPILED BY JEN HILL

C

howder versus bisque: what’s the difference?

Chef Callyn of Harmons Cooking School, notes that both are seafood soups, but chowders are creamy, thick and loaded with chunky veggies and bits of seafood like clams, scallops or fish. A bisque is creamy but oh-so smooth. A velvety rich, stock-based lobster bisque is a classic.

Chef Callyn's cooking journey began on the island of St. Thomas, where she worked and traveled up and down the East Coast aboard a private yacht. Her training continued at the Natural Gourmet Institute in New York City. She now works at Harmons new market in Holladay, teaching an array of classes. Beyond seafood, she specializes in ethnic cuisines.

This recipe not only uses clams but also scallops. It may be more expensive to make, Chef Callyn says, but scallops make it “so much more yummy.”

Ingredients 4 tablespoon unsalted butter ½ cup diced yellow onion ½ cup all-purpose flour 3 cups clam juice, warmed ½ cup white wine 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped 1 bay leaf ½ cup half & half ½ pound sea scallops, quartered ½ pound clams ½ cup fresh corn kernels Additional fresh parsley for garnish Directions In a medium heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat.

Add the onions and sauté until translucent.

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Whisk in the flour; reduce heat to low and cook for five minutes, stirring constantly until the raw flour smell has turned to a fragrant nutty scent.

Slowly incorporate the clam juice while stirring with a whisk to avoid lumping. Stir in the wine, parsley, dill and bay leaf. Simmer over low heat for an additional 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and whisk in the half & half.

On a medium-low heat, slowly cook the sea scallops and clams in the hot chowder until firm. Add the fresh corn kernels while the scallops are cooking. Finish with a parsley or other fresh herb garnish and serve immediately. ❤ To learn how to make this dish and other seafood recipes, visit: HarmonsGrocery.com/Classes Devour Utah • may 2020 19

soups

The Soup Ki tchen's

CheeseBroccoli Soup

The Soup Kitchen's velvety cheese-broccoli soup

COMPILED BY KATE PAPPAS

A

Ingredients To serve 4-6 1/2 cup of butter 2-4 cups flour 1 whole onion, diced 3 cloves of garlic 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 cups diced broccoli 2 cups diced carrots 2-4 cups shredded cheddar cheese 2 cups Farmers Bros cheese sauce mix 1/2-1gallon half and half 1 teaspoon chicken bullion Partial water, as desired Directions

Create a roux to serve as a soup base. Heat pot to a consistent medium (or mediumhigh) temperature. Melt ¼ cup of butter and approximately 2 cups of flour and add 1 teaspoon salt. Consistently stir flour-andbutter mixture for up to 10 minutes. Adjust butter-flour ratio as needed. If flour starts burning, the roux is no good.

In a separate pot, at medium temperature, combine the rest of the butter, onions, garlic, sugar and other spices and start cooking down. Once onions are sautéed, add the roux into the onion mixture. Add half and 20 Devour Utah • May 2020

JOHN TAYLOR

mong the Soup Kitchen’s seven daily soup offerings, one of its most popular is the cheese broccoli.

During the restaurant’s busy (read: coldest) season, employees make 45 gallons per day of this soup in large vats at their 600 North location, which is shipped every morning to their other locations around the Salt Lake Valley. Here is a pared-down version to make in the comfort of your own home.

half to the mixture while stirring.

(The more half and half you use, the creamier the soup. Add some water for a less creamy soup.)

Slowly add shredded cheddar cheese to mixture, followed by cheese-sauce mix while continuing to stir. (Note: If you do not mix cheese in well, it will stick to the pot and harden.) For a thicker base, add more flour to cheese mixture. Cook cheese mixture for 3045 minutes until cheese has broken down, then simmer.

Meanwhile, boil water in a separate pot large enough to

accommodate vegetables with 1 teaspoon salt and chicken bullion, if desired, for extra flavor. Once water is boiling, add carrots and broccoli to water and parboil (partially cook) the veggies; don’t overcook as vegetables will continue cooking once added to cheese mixture.

Once the cheese base has cooked and reached desired thickness, add vegetables to mixture, as well as some water, as desired, to achieve silky smooth consistency. Heat through and simmer for several minutes before serving. Enjoy! ❤ SOUP KITCHEN | MULTIPLE LOCATIONS | SLCSOUP.COM

giving back

Soup’s On in Moa b

Feeding others is the true ‘economy of care’

"We are members of an earth family," says Vandana Shiva, an environmental, seed and food sovereignty advocate who founded the NGO Navdanya

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

COURTESY OHOTO

T

he phrase “economy of care” keeps going around in my mind as I stir a large pot of soup that I make for the weekly Community Soup & Bread Lunch at St. Francis Episcopal Church in Moab. Thanks to its ability to continue offering food on a grab-and-go basis during social distancing, I can keep up my routine.

It’s hard to know how folks are faring in Moab since due to the closure of restaurants, shops, recreational activities and even the national parks, the streets and trails are deserted. The town feels eerie in its stillness.

But just because you can’t see it, the need remains great with the loss of jobs and incomes. The numbers of those coming in for soup are growing, and also at the weekly, now drive-by, Community Food Bank at the church. Local initiatives such as Moab Stone Soup where people can post needs or contributions are popping up on Facebook.

My mind keeps mulling over an essay I read titled “A virus, humanity, and the earth,” written by Vandana Shiva, an environmental, seed and food sovereignty advocate and founder of Navdanya, an NGO that promotes biodiversity, organic farming and seed saving.

“We need to wake up to the fact that we are members of an 'earth family,'” she wrote, and the real economy is “the economy of care—for the planet and for each other.”

Now, as I sauté, mix, season and simmer, I have that sense of participating along with so many others in this rapidly growing economy of care where the currency is attention and attending to people’s needs regardless of payment and, for some, outcome.

My soup varieties include Mexican chicken, vegetable beef, split pea and ham and chicken noodle. Every pot serves 12-15 people, and I never use a recipe.

First, I decide on the flavor profile. Will it be Mediterranean, Southwest or just home-cooking style? I start by sautéing an onion or two in olive oil, then throw in chopped celery, carrots, potatoes, two bags of frozen mixed vegetables and a box of chicken stock or bone broth. I always have large jars of picante or spaghetti sauce to use because they are loaded with flavors I can enhance with more seasoning.

For meats, I find it more economical to use whole chicken that I have cooked beforehand which I shred into the soup. For beef, I use stew or ground meat and ham hocks and diced ham for recipes like lentil and split pea. Seasoned sausages come in very handy too. I always include legumes, kidney or pinto beans for extra protein and chopped, fresh organic parsley for added minerals.

I don’t get fancy or exotic with seasoning because I’m not sure everyone likes the taste of curry or hot chilis.

I consistently use Costco’s Organic No-Salt Seasoning which is loaded with 21 organic spices and ingredients including orange and lemon peel, cumin, mustard, garlic, rosemary and others. Ready-made Italian seasoning enhances Mediterranean taste, and a can of Hatch chilis and extra garlic bring out the Southwest flavor.

As with all my cooking, I know it's done when the kitchen smells just right. I do a final stir for consistency and taste a spoonful to check for full-bodied flavor and may at this point add more seasoning, or not. I make my soups nutritious, thick and hearty. Other soups like posole and chilis are contributed, and one person makes sure there is a vegan option.

I continue to deliver my soup every Thursday, but with COVID-19 in the air, there is no time for chatting. I do a quick hand-off to a shielded volunteer and return home to make face masks which keeps me grateful, in the tiniest of ways, to be part of the heartfelt economy of care. ❤ Read more at: Navdanya.org DeccanHerald.com/specials/sunday-spotlight/a-virushumanity-and-the-earth-821527.html Devour Utah • may 2020 21

Breads and Pasta

Mat t Ca puto's

Matt Caputo, CEO of Caputo's Market & Deli

Go-To Pa sta COMPILED BY JULIA LYON

Italian food’s beauty lies in the simple recipes that showcase amazing agriculture and food artisanship. This pasta can be transcendentally good, but scrimp on any one ingredient, and the magic is lost.

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Ingredients 1 package Maestri Pastai Calamaretti pasta ¼ pound Salumeria Biellese’s pancetta pepato, diced ¼ cup Umbrian olive oil, divided 2 shallots, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced Healthy dash of beer or wine 28-ounce can Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes ¼ pound Fulvi Pecorino Romano, grated, divided Large handful of sea salt for boiling water

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Directions Boil water with ample salt. The water should be as salty as the sea. Add pasta once water is boiling vigorously and check often for doneness.

While pasta is cooking, saute pancetta in dash of oil until browned and crisp. Set aside on a paper towel and saute shallots in the pancetta fat and about 1/8 cup of oil. When shallots are almost translucent but not yet caramelizing, add minced garlic. Let the garlic brown just a touch, then add alcohol and deglaze with a wooden utensil, making sure to get all browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Add whole can of tomatoes and smash and stir until the pasta is done.

Drain the pasta when it is more al dente than you’d like, because it will continue to cook until it is served.

Add drained pasta to the sauce, mixing over low heat for 30 seconds. Add the rest of the oil and half the cheese, and stir to combine.

Garnish plated pasta with remaining cheese and pancetta. Serves four. ❤

Devour Utah • may 2020 22

23 Devour Utah • May 2020

Breads and Pasta

Bob Harmon

Ha rmons Bread of Vikings

COURTESY PHOTO

Harmons Viking Bread

COMPILED BY MAYA SILVER

T

he Vikings loved bread so much, they often carried it with them to their graves—literally.

Archaeologists have discovered the humble loaf in burial sites. It’s fitting, then, that when the Viking exhibit launched at the Natural History Museum of Utah in 2017, Salt Lake’s favorite local grocer decided to create a special bread in its honor, a Bread of Vikings based off historic ingredients. They also baked up a batch for NHMU’s Viking Festival.

While you can’t buy the loaf anymore in-store, you can place a special order (minimum of a baker’s dozen) if you’re dying to try it. Or, you can re-create it at home with Harmons’ recipe:

Ingredients 6 cups Lehi Roller Mills white whole-wheat flour 1 tablespoon, plus ¼ teaspoon instant yeast 1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon sea salt 2 ¾-3 cups warm (not hot) water Directions In a mixing bowl with a dough hook, combine all ingredients, except water. With the mixer running on low speed, add the water in a long, slow stream. Continue mixing for 2 minutes on low speed, then stop.

With a rubber spatula, scrape dough from sides. Continue mixing on medium speed for 2 minutes.

Stop the mixer and scrape dough from sides again. Cover bowl with

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plastic wrap and allow to rest for 45 minutes.

On a floured surface, divide dough into 4 equal pieces, approximately 12 ounces each; cover and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Form each into desired shape and place on an oiled baking sheet or on parchment.

Allow to rise for 30-40 minutes, until doubled in size.

Spray each loaf lightly with water, then score with a razor or very sharp knife. Bake at 390 degrees for approximately 20 minutes or until its internal temperature reads 190-200 degrees (190 for softer loaf; 200 for crusty, chewy bread).

Notes: Times and temperatures might vary; allow to cool before slicing. ❤

Devour Utah • may 2020 24

Breads and Pasta

P izza Dough for t he Grill

Slide dough onto an oiled grill and cook for two to three minutes

PHOTOS AND RECIPE BY DIANE HARTFORD, BLOGGER AT HELLO FUN SEEKERS

Ingredients ½ cup water warm 1 teaspoon sugar 2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast (1 package) 4 cups all-purpose f lour 1 teaspoon salt ⅓ cup olive oil (makes enough dough for two pizzas) Directions Combine warm water, sugar and yeast in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Let sit for 5-10 minutes.

In the bowl of stand mixer outfitted with a dough hook, combine flour, salt, olive oil and yeast mixture. Mix for 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic and comes away from the sides of the bowl.

Place dough in an oiled bowl turning once to coat both sides of the dough with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

Steps to grilling a pizza Turn grill on high and pre-heat for 15 minutes. Clean grill thoroughly with a grill brush. Lower heat to medium-high (aiming for about 425 degrees).

Pour a little olive oil onto a paper towel and using a long pair of tongs carefully wipe paper towel on grill grates to help prevent the dough from sticking.

For each pizza, have ready 8 ounces pizza dough, sauces, cheeses and toppings (see options below) Roll out dough on a floured pizza peel or baking sheet into a circle or oval. If dough doesn’t roll easily, let rest for 10 minutes and then try again.

Slide the dough from the peel or baking sheet on the grill. Close the grill lid and let cook for 2-3 minutes. When the crust starts to bubble around the edges and has grill marks on the bottom remove pizza dough from grill back onto pizza peel or baking sheet.

Spread a thin layer of sauce, toppings, and cheese on the grilled side of the pizza and return to grill the other side of the dough. Cover and cook through until the pizza dough has grill marks on both sides and the cheese is melted.

Remove from grill and let rest a few minutes before slicing.

Clean and oil grill before grilling any additional pizzas.

The pizzas cook very quickly, so it’s easy to keep them coming off the grill to feed hungry guests.

25 Devour Utah • May 2020

When pizza has grill marks, remove from heat and spread sauce and toppings on the grilled side

Cover and cook until pizza has grill marks on both sides and cheese is melted

Options Sauces: tomato sauce, pesto, hummus, Thai peanut sauce, plain or flavored olive oils Cheese: shredded mozzarella, fontina, gruyere, feta, goat cheese, burrata or Parmesan Vegetables: sautéed mushroom, onions or greens; roasted fennel or broccoli, grilled corn, tomatoes, summer squash, shredded carrot and artichoke hearts Garnish: herbs, arugula, scallions, crumbled sausage or bacon, nuts, crushed red pepper flakes

Delicious Pizza Combinations Greek: tomato sauce, cherry tomatoes, feta, red onion, olives, spinach Italian: tomato sauce, Italian sausage, sautéed peppers and onions, and goat cheese Veggie-lover: tomato sauce, sautéed mushrooms, onions and Swiss chard, topped with mozzarella Pesto: pesto sauce, roasted fennel, mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, fontina and pine nuts. ❤

Da kos

breads and pasta

Creta n Rusk

BY ELENI SALTAS AUTHOR OF ALL YOU CAN GREEK COOKBOOK

Ingredients 2 barley rusks 3 medium tomatoes, grated 2 tablespoons oregano 3 to 5 ounces soft cheese (mizithra, ricotta or feta cheese) Kalamata olives Extra virgin olive oil Pinch of salt Serves: 1-2 ALL YOU CAN GREEK | ELENISALTAS.COM/COOKBOOK

GARY SHEPPARD

O

f all the regional foods I’ve tried in Greece, Cretan cuisine is by far my favorite. From the most rural villages to cities like Chania, you’ll find dishes layered with fresh herbs, cheeses, vegetables and plenty of olive oil—these key ingredients create simple but flavorful dishes. One of the best representations of Cretan cuisine is dakos, a traditional meze (appetizer) that I could eat daily and never tire of.

Similar to Italian bruschetta, dakos is made with a twice-baked rusk bread that is hard as nails, meaning, before serving, it needs to be reconstituted with water or olive oil to soften it. In Crete, rusks are most often barley-based, but wheat- or rye-based are also common.

It’s the toppings that make this dish memorable. For Cretan dakos, rusks are topped with juicy tomatoes (preferably fresh from the vine), soft cheese (such as Cretan mizithra, feta or ricotta) and garnished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and oregano. Complete the dakos with a Kalamata olive on top.

Once assembled, if you look straight down, you might notice the dakos resembles the eye of an owl, which is why in Crete the dish is also referred to as koukouvagia (owl).

If you’re new to Cretan cuisine, dakos is the perfect place to start your journey. You don’t need to travel all the way to Crete to make dakos, as the recipe below easily can be made at home.

Directions Grate tomatoes and put aside in a bowl. Mix in oregano and a pinch of salt with the tomatoes.

Run the rusks under water to lightly moisten them. Plate the rusks and drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over each one.

Spread the tomato mixture on top of each rusk, covering the entire rusk. Add the soft cheese on top.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle additional oregano on top.

To finish, top with a Kalamata olive and enjoy!

Double, triple or quadruple the recipe to make more dakos for your friends and family. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 26

Breads and Pasta

La Nonna’s Noodles FEATURE BY DARBY DOYLE | PHOTOS BY AMBER BILLINGSLEY

F

or nearly three years during World War II—from 1943 to 1945—the Nazis occupied Venice, Italy. In that time, they starved the city’s residents through food-shipment blockades, pillaging citizens’ gardens and pantries and by prohibiting fishing. Venetians accustomed to eating regional dishes such as risotto and polenta adapted instead by making meals with rationed or black-market wheat flour.

As a resident of Venice during the occupation, Radiana DePoli Angelilli remembers that her family kept a small flock of chickens hidden in their household to provide eggs as a much-needed source of protein, eaten raw or stretched into pasta (they were only allowed gas for cooking one half-hour a day).

When the U.S. Army arrived to liberate the city, Radiana DePoli met a dashing American soldier named Arthur Angelilli. She married at age 15 and became 1945’s youngest war bride. With a big laugh, she says, “I broke the record!”

She and Arthur lived in Germany for several years before moving to the United States, eventually settling in Utah when Arthur took a job at Hill Air Force Base. The couple has three children and four grandchildren. Radiana, along with her son Robert Angelilli (pastry chef for the Trio Group) and daughter-in-law Amber Billingsley (pastry chef for Current and Stanza), helped steer me through their family’s recipe for tortellini, which they make for special occasions and holidays, assembly-line style.

“You don’t have to spend a fortune on fancy flour,” Robert says.

“Plain all-purpose flour works just fine.”

Radiana cautions that whenever making pasta, measurements should be considered guidelines, rather than prescriptions, as factors such as the size of the eggs and ambient humidity might vary each time.

With just a bag of flour and some eggs, learning to make pasta is a “good, cheap thing to practice making,” says Robert. “Spend an afternoon with a bottle of wine, and you’ll perfect it.”

Tortellini Pasta Dough 10 ounces (approximately 2 cups) all-purpose flour 3 whole eggs (or 2 whole eggs plus additional three yolks for a richer dough) 1 teaspoon salt Combine all ingredients into a ball using a food processor, mixer with hook or paddle, or by hand in a bowl or on the countertop. Knead until all flour is incorporated. Add cold water a few drops at a time if the dough is too crumbly to stick together. Continue to knead dough by hand 3 to 5 minutes, or until uniform and smooth in texture and very elastic. Form into a flat disc about 1½ inches thick, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes, up to 1 hour, if possible (the longer it rests, the easier the dough is to work with). In the meantime, make the mushroom filling.

27 Devour Utah • May 2020

Radiana DePoli Angelilli cuts the pasta

Radiana suggests using measurements as guidelines since environmental factors are always at play

Mushroom Filling This recipe makes enough filling for approximately 1 pound of finished tortellini. ½ pound cremini mushrooms, finely chopped ¼ medium yellow onion, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt to taste 1 whole egg ¼ cup whole-milk ricotta cheese (fine curd) 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon butter or olive oil In a skillet over medium heat, sauté mushrooms with olive oil until soft and most liquid has evaporated. Add onions and continue to cook until soft; add garlic and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden. Remove from heat, transfer to a mixing bowl. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add egg, ricotta, Parmesan cheese and stir until well combined.

Prepare the Tortellini Radiana Angelilli uses the same hand-cranked pasta roller she’s had for 50 years to transform the dough into the thinnest sheets possible. Since tortellini are folded over in several places, too-thick dough makes for tough pasta that won’t cook through evenly. Radiana describes the finished shape as “little belly buttons.”

Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll one piece through a pasta machine on the widest setting and keep on rolling it through smaller settings until the dough is at the thinnest one. Repeat with the other three dough pieces. Cut 2½inch to 3-inch circles of dough using a cookie cutter or by tracing around the rim of a glass with a very sharp knife.

Keep the pasta covered with a kitchen towel to prevent it from drying out.

Place one rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each pasta circle, working in batches of no more than 8 to 10 at a time. With a pastry brush or your fingers, brush a very light coating of water around the edge of the dough circle. Pull dough over the filling to create a semi-circle, pushing as much air out of the filled center as possible as you go. Press edges together firmly with fingertips to seal.

Pick up the “corners” of the pasta semi-circle and bend them toward each other gently (the Angelillis call this step “breaking the back”) so as not to burst the filling pocket.

Bring one end slightly on top of the other to overlap and slightly buckle the pasta edge up on one side. Give the overlapped ends a little squeeze to keep them well adhered.

As you go, place formed tortellini on a lightly floured baking sheet or large plate.

When ready to cook, drop tortellini into salted boiling water and stir gently so they don’t stick together. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, and strain. Serve as the Angelillis do with either a hearty pork-based tomato sauce, or simply with a drizzle of browned butter, generous sprinkle of Parmesan cheese and sea salt. ❤

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Old world flavor in the heart of Salt Lake

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Grill it & add a salad

Sizzlin' Sea sonings

Herb-Marinated Chicken

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

dramatically enhance your meat by using fresh herbs. Their flavors hold up surprisingly well, even with a bit of char. Combine them in a marinade, smear them on in a paste or rub, or even use the woody stems of rosemary or sage to make kabobs.

It’s best to use herbs with bolder tastes rather than delicate ones like parsley, to ensure the flavor doesn’t go up in smoke.

BRITTANY BLAIRE

W

hen firing up the grill, you can

Merry Lycett Harrison

Herb-Ma rinated Chicken or Shrimp

Directions Combine marinade ingredients into a large resealable bag. Add chicken or shrimp and marinate for at least one hour, turning a few times. Allow the clinging herb bits to remain on the food when grilling. Serve whole or shred into a pasta dish or salad.

29 Devour Utah • May 2020

Grilled Veggies

BRITTANY BLAIRE

Ingredients 2 crushed garlic cloves ⅓ cup chives, chopped 6 leaves fresh lemon verbena, chopped leaves from 4 sprigs of lemon thyme, chopped leaves from 4 fresh sprigs of mint, chopped leaves from 4 fresh sprigs of bee balm (Monarda) or oregano, chopped juice from 1 lemon ⅓ cup white wine ½ cup olive oil 4 skinned chicken breasts (halved crossways, if so desired) or 1 pound of shrimp Salt and pepper may be added after grilling, if desired

Bold Fresh-Herb Rub For chops and vegetables

Ingredients 1 tablespoon cinnamon or sweet basil 1 tablespoon fresh mint 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon fresh garden sage 1 diced shallot clove 1 crushed garlic clove 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon red wine 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon oil

Directions Finely chop cinnamon, sweet basil, mint, rosemary and sage. Add remaining ingredients in a bowl and let stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes.

Smear on 1 pound beef steak, pork or lamb chops, and/or cubed root veggies like potatoes, red onion, beets, carrots and parsnips that can be roasted in a pan directly on the grill. ❤

Grill it & add a salad

A Bourbon Ga l’s

Grilled Ra inbow Trout

Darby Doyle

with Charred Lemon BY DARBY DOYLE

Ingredients 2 medium trout (12-14 inches, about 12-14 ounces each) 3 lemons, divided 3-4 scallions, slit lengthwise and cut into 2” pieces Olive oil, kosher salt, and fresh ground black pepper ½ cup fresh radish sprouts

Directions Soak 6-8 toothpicks in water.

Clean and gut trout, rinsing cavity thoroughly with lots of cold running water. Pack trout cavity with paper towels, and pat dry the skin.

Slice 2 lemons in half crosswise, and set aside.

Slice remaining lemon into thin rounds. Halve these slices if the trout is small.

With a very sharp knife, make 3 or 4 crosswise cuts just through the skin of each fish to expose the flesh (about 1½ inches apart), do this on both sides.

Remove paper towels from fish cavity, sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Evenly divide lemon slices and scallions between the two fish cavities. Drizzle inside with ½ tsp olive oil per fish.

Use toothpicks to secure the cavity closed.

Brush both sides of fish skin generously with olive oil.

Heat well-oiled grill to medium-high. Place trout over direct heat, and cook on one side for 3-5 minutes, or until the skin of the fish is dark, crackling, and pulling away from the grill grates.

Gently flip the fish over, and add halved lemons cut-side down on the grill over direct flame. Cook fish and lemon for 3-5 minutes, until charred and crispy.

Serve trout with grilled lemons and radish sprouts. ❤

DARBY DOYLE

Serves 4

Devour Utah • may 2020 30

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Grill it & add a salad Place bird on foil

Roast bird for two hours

NILSA CARTER

Grill master Larry Carter

Ready to serve: Carved chicken

La rry Ca rter’s

Beer-Ca n Chicken COMPILED BY JERRE WROBLE

F

or more than 15 years, Larry Carter served as circulation manager for City Weekly, where he was the point person for distributing City Weekly as well as Devour Utah and other magazines along the Wasatch Front. To thank his hardworking drivers, Carter began hosting a summer barbecue that became so popular, he continues hosting his annual bash even though he now works for the Salt Lake County Library.

While his barbecued ribs are legendary (“I’m a griller, not a smoker,” he notes), his beer-can chicken is a family favorite.

Carter got his love of barbecue from his father and a neighbor, both Houston natives who grilled exclusively with charcoal. Carter read up on charcoal and now uses Stubb’s All Natural charcoal (available at Lowe’s) as a healthier alternative. “For extra added flavor, I will throw on a small piece of hickory to the hot briquettes,”

he says, but he’s been known to also use mesquite and even pecan.

For his ribs, Carter shops at Stan’s Market (4195 W. 5415 South, Kearns, 801-969-7293, StansMarket.com), where Leo the butcher “cracks my ribs for me.”

For the beer-can chicken, Carter starts with a large whole Tyson roasting chicken, and he trims off any fat. He thoroughly rinses it and removes the neck and organ meats.

He doesn’t brine the chicken, he says. “I just give it a good wash, then pat dry. I scrub out my kitchen sink and put the chicken in it. Then I season the bird, inside and out.”

Chicken Rub ingredients 3 tablespoons garlic salt 3 tablespoons adobo ½ teaspoon black or white pepper 2 tablespoons of oregano ¼ cup of chili powder

Directions Arrange the briquets in a pyramid.

Open all grill vents and leave grill uncovered. If using lighter fluid, follow instructions. When briquets are ashed over (in approximately 10 minutes), spread briquets evenly, then wait five minutes until the coals are ready to cook over.

Place the seasoned bird over a halffull 12-ounce can of cheap beer—Miller or Bud works fine. (Note: A 16-ounce can is too tall.) Slide it into the bird’s cavity and pull the legs forward to balance the upright bird.

Place some aluminum foil (shiny side down) over the grill’s rack then set the bird on the foil. Close the lid over the chicken and let it slowly roast for two hours. At that time, check the temperature of the bird and make sure the dark meat is at 168 degrees before removing from the heat.

Let bird cool for 10 minutes before removing from can and slicing meat into serving pieces. ❤

Devour Utah • may 2020 32

Grill it & add a salad

LIGHT

Summer salads that go easy on lettuce Photos & feature

by Rebecca Ory Hernandez

S

ummer traditions, for me, include vacations, swimming and barbecues.

And salads, of course. Growing up in Louisiana, my grandmother harvested tomatoes and cucumbers from her “victory garden” and used them right away in a salad—what we called “summer in a bowl.” Combined with an icy glass of tea, these juicy veggies helped to keep us cool, hydrated and satisfied.

Four summer salads in particular represent my Cajun and Cuban roots. Perhaps because of the citrus in most of them, you can’t help but feel bright and healthy after eating them. They will keep you cool when the temperatures outside make it too hot to cook indoors. Plus, they pair wonderfully with fresh fish.

I hope you enjoy these traditional family salads and learn something old while trying something new.

Simple Creole Tomato & Cucumber Salad Serves 1-2 As a child, I knew it was summer when my grandmother could pluck ripe tomatoes and cucumbers off the vines in the early morning and serve them for lunch, unadorned by lettuce. The freshest, vine-ripened Creole tomatoes and cucumbers didn’t need the fanfare, just a dash of salt and pepper, a splash of white wine vinegar and a good drizzle of Spanish olive oil. And, if you have it, add a couple of sprigs of fresh basil.

Ingredients 1-2 large tomatoes from garden or farmers market 1 large cucumber from garden or farmers market (English cucumber will also work) White wine vinegar Spanish olive oil Salt & pepper Slice tomatoes and cucumbers. Salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle with vinegar and drizzle good-quality olive oil as you like. Toss, let sit for 5 minutes. Serve into bowls and eat.

33 Devour Utah • May 2020

Julia Child’s Fennel Salad Serves 3-4 One stormy summer day when I was 8, I watched Julia Child on PBS thinly slice a mysterious “frondy” topped bulb, then toss it in a bowl with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. I begged my mom to take me to the market to find this vegetable called “fennel” in hopes of replicating that salad. Hint: The smaller the bulb, the tastier the salad. Also, if fennel has its fronds, cut them off at the base of the stalks and use to stuff grilled/roasted fish or chicken, or add to broth.

Ingredients 1 bulb of fennel Extra virgin olive oil Salt (kosher or sea salt) and pepper to taste Juice of 1/2 lemon Rinse and dry bulb. Trim brown spots. Cut the bulb in half from root to stalk. Using a sharp knife, slice the fennel thinly.

Drizzle with lemon juice and oil, toss, then salt and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately.

Cuban Pineapple Avocado Salad Serves 6-8 I can’t imagine summer without this fun salad. The sweet-andsour ingredients are perfect for any barbecue. It’s important to salt the dressing—and I mean overly salt it—because that mellows the sweetness of the pineapple. This salad does not hold well, so prepare it and serve right away.

Ingredients ½ cup olive oil 1/3 cup white vinegar 1/3 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice 1/3 cup sugar Salt and pepper 1 head iceberg lettuce 2 cups fresh-cut bite-size pineapple chunks 1 medium sweet red onion, sliced thin 2 medium avocados or 1 large Florida avocado, peeled and sliced 3 fresh limes Combine oil, vinegar, juice, sugar, salt (overly salt if possible) and pepper in a blender until smooth. Lightly toss the lettuce, pineapple and red onion together. Add dressing a little at a time and toss to reach desired flavor. Garnish with avocado slices seasoned with salt and pepper and squeeze ½ a lime over each serving.

Columbia’s Original 1905 Salad® (Courtesy of Columbia Restaurant, Tampa, Fla.) Just like flan for dessert, this salad was always on the table at my in-laws for every holiday, funeral and celebration. The crunch of the iceberg lettuce is its magic. This salad is savory and satisfying with the tangy olive oil vinaigrette plus the umami of Worcestershire sauce. Use the best quality olive oil and cheese and prepare to be surprised.

Columbia’s Original 1905 Salad Ingredients 4 cups iceberg lettuce, broken into 1 ½-inch by 1 ½-inch pieces 1 ripe tomato, cut into eighths ½ cup baked ham, julienned 2 inches by 1/8-inch (may substitute turkey or shrimp) ½ cup Swiss cheese, julienned 2 inches by 1/8-inch ½ cup pimiento-stuffed green Spanish olives 1905 Dressing (see recipe below) ¼ cup Romano cheese, grated 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 lemon Combine lettuce, tomato, ham, Swiss cheese and olives in a large salad bowl. Before serving, add 1905 Dressing, Romano cheese, Worcestershire and the juice of 1 lemon. Toss well and serve immediately. Makes 2 full salads or 4 side salads.

“1905” Dressing Ingredients ½ cup extra-virgin Spanish olive oil 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1/8 cup white wine vinegar Salt and pepper to taste Mix olive oil, garlic and oregano in a bowl with a wire whisk. Stir in vinegar, gradually beating to form an emulsion, and then season with salt and pepper. For best results, prepare 1 to 2 days in advance and refrigerate. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 34

Grill it & add a salad

Herb-Infused Vinega rs

BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON

I

t’s easy to make your own herb-infused vinegars. Directions for making flavored vinegars vary, but here are the basic steps: Start with a very clean, non-reactive container, like glass. Use a very generous quantity of herbs and cover them with the vinegar you have chosen. Close the container tightly, and let it sit out of direct light for about a week. Taste it to determine whether it’s flavorful enough. You can strain out the vinegar and add additional seasoning and herbs for more concentrated flavor. Let it sit another week. Strain out the spent herbs and bottle in attractive containers.

Ensure the vinegar is free of harmful bacteria (some recipes call for boiling the vinegar and herbs together for a sterile mixture). The shelf life is usually between three and six months.

Infuse your salad dressing with the aromatic essential oils of herbs

Try these herb-infused vinegar combinations Apple Cider Vinegar • garlic and dill • tarragon, chives, lemon balm • mustard, garlic, red pepper White Wine Vinegar • basil, chives, garlic, dill • rosemary, lavender, mint, thyme, fennel, citrus zest, ginger • lemon verbena, chive, parsley • sage, shallots, cilantro, oregano, garlic, hot pepper Red Wine Vinegar • oregano, thyme, garlic, bay leaf, bee balm • ginger, clove, mustard, cumin, tarragon, mint, garlic

Herbalist Merry Lycett Harrison owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs. In addition to offering classes in medicinal herbs, culinary herbs and herb gardening, she leads summertime herb trips in the wild. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs.com.

35 Devour Utah • May 2020

BRITTANY MOSS

Besides herbs, consider adding fruits and spices to vinegars. Raspberries and orange with cinnamon, clove, rosemary and mint would be a taste sensation! ❤

Springtime at

Glover Nursery

Alrighty Cafe VilleBella family!

We will now be doing curbside, takeout, delivery and DoorDash!! We are taking extra precautions to keep you safe by using a fresh pair of gloves for each order and sanitizing every hour!

Please let us keep feeding you!

Get Stuffed!

With our Signature Stuffed French Toast Featured Drink Good Morning Sunshine O.J. with a shot of espresso Try it, you’ll like it!

Breakfast • Lunch • Take-out • Catering Now Available thru Door Dash

Mon-Sat 8am-7pm Sunday 10am-5pm 9275 S 1300 W 801-562-5496 glovernursery.com

CafeVilleBella.com 3679 Harrison Blvd, Ogden 801.603.0385 2020 winner of the Royal Court Mac & Cheese Cook off

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Devour Utah • may 2020 36

tasty main courses

Chef Jennifer Gilroy's

Curry Lime Pra wns

This recipe goes back to Jennifer Gilroy's time at the nowclosed Meditrina. Try her new menus at Porch and Elevo

BY AIMEE L. COOK

Directions In a small sauce pot, combine all dry ingredients, lime juice, and butter and whisk over medium heat until butter is melted. Add half and half, bring to a boil, reduce to simmer for 3-5 minutes.

The sauce should be a little lighter than the color of yellow mustard. Remove from heat.

In a large sauté pan, add oil and allow pan to get hot over medium-high heat before adding the prawns. Sear both sides of the prawns just until pink. Add curry lime sauce and simmer until prawns are done.

(Remember—overcooked shrimp are not happy shrimp!)

Serve over basmati rice for an entrée or cucumber slices for an appetizer. ❤

37 Devour Utah • May 2020

COURTESY OF MEDITRINASLC.COM

Ingredients 1 tablespoon yellow curry powder 2 teaspoons cumin ½ teaspoon cayenne ¼ teaspoon dry ginger 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon butter 1 ½ cup half and half ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil or canola oil 1 ½ pounds peeled, deveined prawns

PORCH (SOUTH JORDAN) AND ELEVO (LIBERTY WELLS) | PORCHUTAH.COM AND ELEVOSLC.COM

Tasty Main courses

Chef Frodebert

Frody Volgger's Rahm Schnitzel

“ Frody” Volg ger

Ra hm Schni tzel COMPILED BY DARBY DOYLE

TED SCHEFFLER

Kitchen equipment/utensils Medium sized, heavy bottom skillet 3 small bowls, for flour, sliced mushrooms and diced onions Medium size plate for resting meat Wooden spoon and a pair of tongs

Directions Heat heavy bottom skillet over medium-high heat with the oil.

Heavily season all-purpose flour with salt & pepper.

Dredge pork cutlets in flour mixture, brushing off excess.

When the skillet is really hot, but not smoking, place all four cutlets in the pan. Brown the first side and flip, reducing heat to medium.

Remove the meat from the pan when second side has started to brown—the pork should be about 90 percent cooked. Set aside on a plate.

Add the onions to the skillet with the browned meat drippings. Sauté until translucent, lower the heat slightly

Ingredients 2 tablespoons organic high-heat oil. We like avocado oil but canola will do 4 6-ounce boneless Christiansen Family Farms Pork Loin medallions ¼ cup Central Milling organic all-purpose flour Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ½ medium organic white onion, finely diced 2 ounces (a big splash) of dry white wine. (We like Grüner Veltliner) 8 ounces porcini mushroom (or any favorite) sliced to slightly larger than bite-size pieces ½ cup organic heavy cream Serves 4

so as not to brown the onions. Cook for about 10 minutes total.

Increase heat to medium-high, deglaze the pan with white wine.

Gently scrape the pan with wooden spoon or spatula as wine starts to bubble Add the mushrooms, cook for about 5 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium and add the cream. Allow cream to come to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer.

Give it a stir every couple of minutes until the sauce begins to thicken, season with salt and pepper to taste.

Return the pork cutlets and all the drippings back into the pan, heating the pork all the way through.

Serve with spätzle, your favorite pasta or rice. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 38

tasty main courses

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

Tyler Montague is an urban farmer who operates Keep It Real Vegetables

Tyler Montague's Garlic Scape Pesto wi t h

Ca rrot Noodles

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

COMPILED BY AIMEE L. COOK

Ingredients 5-6 large carrots zest of ½ lemon ¼ cup cashews ¼ cup pine nuts 3 cups coarsely chopped garlic scapes 3 cups fresh basil leaves, packed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ cups good olive oil 1 ⅓ cups freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons butter

JOSH SCHEUERMAN

For pesto, combine in food processor ¼ cup cashews ¼ cup pine nuts 3 cups coarsely chopped garlic scapes 3 cups fresh basil leaves, packed 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ½ cups good olive oil 1 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar Add oil slowly, pulsing until well combined.

39 Devour Utah • May 2020

For noodles Peel and spiralize 5-6 large carrots. Boil in salted water for 2-3 minutes, until firm al dente. Strain.

Heat butter and some olive oil in a large pan. Warm a generous amount of pesto sauce, then add the carrot noodles. Stir on medium-high heat, adding pesto as necessary for another 2-3 minutes. Remove to a bowl and toss with the lemon zest. Plate and garnish with grated pecorino Romano. ❤

KEEP IT REAL VEGETABLES | 801-884-9770 OR 971-217-4505 | KEEPITREALVEGETABLES.WEEBLY.COM

Tasty Main courses

A Mole to Remember

Tita’s Turkey Mole

Tita’s Turkey Mole ½ cup almonds ½ cup walnuts ½ cup sesame seeds (raw or toasted) ½ cup pumpkin seeds (raw or toasted) 8 dried red chile pods, of as many varieties as you can (pasilla, ancho, mulato, poblano, guajillo, Anaheim, New Mexico, etc.)

2 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 anise pods 2 teaspoons black peppercorns 4 inches cinnamon stick 4 tablespoons chocolate powder, or substitute nibs 5 cloves garlic, chopped An onion, Tita’s favorite ingredient, chopped A tortilla or old piece of bread Olive oil, butter Directions Cook a turkey, or some turkey parts, any way you wish. If using a frozen turkey, put it in the oven at 350 and turn when the top becomes brown.

Bake until it’s soft enough to pull the bones out once it cools—the texture of a rotisserie chicken. This can be achieved through boiling or other ways, but I like the flavor of crisp skin.

Set the meat aside, and put the bones, skin, cartilage and whatnot in a pot of water, along with some whole carrots, lengths of celery stalk, and an onion, cut in half. Simmer for as much time as you have.

Clean the dried chiles, removing

COURTESY PHOTO

BY ARI LEVAUX, FLASH IN THE PAN COLUMNIST

the stems, seeds and membranes.

Tita roasts and uses the chile seeds, and you can follow her if you dare.

(Fair warning: The story ends with Tita literally burning away in a flame of passion.)

In a heavy pan on low/medium heat, add the almonds and pecans, and let these brown slowly. So slowly that you can almost afford to forget about them while you attend to a second pan, on medium heat, to which you add the coriander, black pepper, anise, cinnamon and chile seeds. Stir these often until they start to brown and the coriander seeds begin to pop. Remove the spices from the pan and add the cleaned chile, ripped into pieces about an inch long or smaller. Turn the pan down and lightly roast the chile.

When the nuts begin to brown, add the sesame seeds and pumpkin seeds. When they brown, turn off the

FLASH IN THE PAN | ARILEVAUX.COM/FLASH-IN-THE-PAN-PUBLIC

heat and let them cool.

Now, gather the nuts, spices, seeds and chile into a nice stone mortar and pestle, take a picture, and then put it all in a food processor with the chocolate. Let it rip, and when the mole gets too thick, add turkey stock until it’s the consistency of very creamy peanut butter.

Add oil and butter to one of the pans, on medium heat, and sauté the garlic and onion, along with a pound of turkey and a crumbled roll or tortilla. Add broth as necessary to prevent burning. When the onion is translucent, add a half cup of mole and turkey stock, stirring it together as best you can, and cover so the mole melts. Add more mole and stock if necessary. Season with salt.

So, too, will your own guests melt when they eat this mole—truly the most love you could give someone with your pants on. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 40

tasty main courses

Tusca ny's Chef Ada m Vickers'

Pa sta Prima vera for Two COMPILED BY JERRE WROBLE

I

“

don’t use recipes,” says Tuscany’s longtime chef, Adam Vickers. “It’s all in here,” he says, gesturing to his head. For a chef who’s been at Tuscany’s helm since 2009—and working for other restaurants owned by the same company since 1996—he’s got a lot going on in that head.

Not only does Vickers know precisely how each item on Tuscany’s menu is prepared, he also shows creative flair for springtime specials, such as the pasta primavera. Many aren’t aware that this classic pasta dish—while not on the menu—can be made to order with your choice of the freshest ingredients in the kitchen.

Tuscany serves only housemade pasta, and for this dish, Vickers uses broad, flat pappardelle noodles, made with 100-percent semolina flour. “I like the texture of semolina,” he says.

“It has a backbone to it. It will hold up.”

The pasta’s fresh, but then, so is nearly every ingredient the chef adds to it. “We butcher our own meat and use herbs from our own garden,” Vickers says.

41 Devour Utah • May 2020

Vickers’ goal as chef is maintaining consistency, he says.

He wants the dining experience to be outstanding every time. “The challenge as a chef is getting the staff to match your own drive and passion,” he says. He accomplishes that by working alongside his crew in the kitchen every day.

Ingredients 8 ounces freshly made pappardelle pasta 1 cup fresh cherry tomatoes, halved 8 asparagus spears, cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces 2 yellow squash, sliced into coins, then half moons ¼ cup fresh garden herbs (chives, baby sorrel) 1 clove sliced garlic Olive oil 1 tablespoon butter Pinch salt Fresh cracked pepper 2 teaspoons umami seasoning Serves 2

Directions Gather ribbons of fresh pappardelle into fist-sized balls and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Drop the “balls” of pasta into boiled salted water and cook al dente (about 8 to 10 minutes).

While pasta is cooking, add the olive oil to a large sauté pan and heat over medium-high flame. Add squash, tomatoes and asparagus, stirring until vegetables become tender, about 2 minutes. Add garlic, season to taste with salt and pepper, and add 1 to 2 teaspoons of umami seasoning.

Combine with a dab of butter for flavor.

Deglaze pan with ½ to 1 cup of white wine. Remove pan from heat.

Pull pasta balls out of water and drop into sauté pan with vegetables.

Add a quarter cup of starchy pasta water to help create a sauce that binds ingredients. Toss noodles with vegetables. Add additional butter if desired and most of the garden herbs, holding back some for the garnish. Toss again. Serve on plates, top with shaved Parmesan and remaining herbs. ❤

TUSCANY | 2832 E. 6200 SOUTH, SLC | 801-277-9919 | TUSCANYSLC.COM

Tasty Main courses

Fav Bistro owner/chef Anny Sooksri

Fa v Bistro Anny Sooksri's

Ba sil St ir Fry for Two COMPILED BY JERRE WROBLE

A

s a hardworking chef, Anny Ingredients Sooksri often rewards 2 tablespoons vegetable oil herself at the end of her day 3-5 cloves of garlic sliced or minced with a basil stir fry. The chef/ Crushed Thai chile (optional for spice) owner of the Thai restaurant ½ pound minced chicken group that includes the fabulous (meat from one chicken breast) Fav Bistro, Sooksri says basil stir ¼ cup carrots, peeled and cut fry is a go-to comfort food in in half ovals or coins Thailand. ¼ cup sliced yellow onion (thinly Sooksri says most Thai natives sliced lengthwise into thin wedges) prefer the Siam Queen variety of ¼ cup each of red bell & Jalapeno basil, which imparts a licorice or peppers, cut into strips anise flavor. But because of its ¼ cup sugar snap peas, with pod short shelf life, U.S. restaurants stems and strings removed typically use Thai sweet basil.

2 tablespoons chicken stock Sooksri stresses the importance 1 tablespoon oyster sauce of using all fresh ingredients and 1 tablespoon fish sauce taking care not to overcook the Dash sugar vegetables. “You want them to 1 bunch basil leaves (about 2½ ounces, be crisp and still nutritious,” she or about 1 cup of packed basil), says. Another Thai tradition is to chopped if using a larger leaf basil. place a fried egg over a serving of Optional: 1 egg to fry in oil rice and then ladle the stir fry on Cooked white rice top. Keep the yolk runny, Sooksri advises. “I love that fried egg.”

Serves 2 FAV BISTRO | 1984 E. MURRAY HOLLADAY ROAD | HOLLADAY | 801-676-9300 | BESTTHAIFOODINUTAH.COM/FAVBISTRO

Directions

Remove skin from and debone a fresh chicken breast, rinse and pat dry. On a cutting board, with a sharp knife, cut raw meat into 2-inch-wide strips. Then, use a meat clever to chop raw meat cubes by hand into a medium mince.

In a wok or large skillet, heat oil on low heat and cook garlic and Thai chili.

Add chicken mince and break it up with spatula. Cook on high heat until chicken starts to turn white, about 1 to 2 minutes.

To the meat, add carrots and onions, stir fry over high heat until onions become translucent. Add oyster sauce, fish sauce, chicken stock and sugar, heat until liquid begins to boil while mixing in with other ingredients. Then, add bell peppers, snap peas and basil, and gently mix over heat for half a minute, then remove from heat.

In a small skillet, fry an egg in hot oil, sunny-side up. Cook the white crisp and keep yolk runny. Place egg over serving of rice, then cover egg and rice with stirfry ingredients. ❤

Devour Utah • may 2020 42

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43 Devour Utah • May 2020

Get Well Soon

� the art floral

801-363-0565 580 E 300 S SLC theartfloral.com

Amour means "love" in French.

COURTESY PHOTO

sweet treats

Amour Spreads

Ja m- F illed Ebelskivers

COURTESY PHOTO

COURTESY PHOTO

COMPILED BY DARBY DOYLE

AMOUR SPREADS | SALT LAKE CITY | AMOURSPREADS.COM

Ebelskivers are a traditional Danish breakfast dish made using a half spherical pan. This particular design yields pancake-like balls that are perfect for dipping or filling with delicious jam. Ebelskiver pans can be found at any local kitchenware shop such as Williams-Sonoma.

Directions: For the batter, whip up your favorite pancake recipe.

Heat the pan on medium heat. Add oil or butter to each sphere to keep the batter from sticking.

Fill each sphere half way with the batter.

Wait 30 seconds, then add a teaspoon of your favorite Amour jam or marmalade. We’ve found Tayberry Jam and Tangelo Marmalade to be fabulous complements.

When the edges of the ebelskivers begin to look cooked (about 1 1/2 minutes), flip over and allow to cook for an additional 45 seconds or until thoroughly cooked and browned.

Serve with maple syrup, crème fraîche, powdered sugar and fresh fruit … though jam-filled ebelskivers tend to need little more than a drizzle of crème fraîche, in our humble opinion. Enjoy! ❤ Recipe courtesy of AmourSpreads.com

Devour Utah • may 2020 44

sweet treats

SARAH ARNOFF

Heather May's Peach Caramel Pie

Peach Ca ra mel P ie BAKED BY DEVOUR'S FORMER EDITOR HEATHER MAY (ADAPTED FROM BON APPETIT )

Crust ingredients (makes two dough disks) 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar Filling ingredients 1 cup of sugar, divided ½ teaspoon cinnamon Pinch of salt 1 quart canned peaches 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons whipping cream 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 egg, beaten for glaze Raw sugar 45 Devour Utah • May 2020

Directions For the crust: Mix flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Add butter and pulse until the butter is the size of small peas. Place mixture in a large bowl.

Combine vinegar and 3 tablespoons of ice water in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle over flour mixture and mix with your hands. Continue adding liquid and kneading in the bowl until it starts to form clumps. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until clumps form together.

Divide dough into 2 pieces and press into disks. Wrap with plastic and set aside one disk for another pie; it will freeze up to a month. Chill the other disk for at least an hour.

For the filling, combine ½ cup sugar with the cinnamon and salt in a large bowl. Add quart of peaches (along with syrup) and lemon juice. Set aside.

Stir remaining ½ cup of sugar with ¼ cup of water in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves.

Increase heat and boil without stirring, occasionally swirling the pan, until syrup is amber. Remove from heat and add butter and whipping cream. Stir caramel until smooth. Strain juices from peaches into the caramel.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Add caramel and flour to peaches in bowl and gently stir. Transfer filling to pie dish.

Roll out one disk of dough and arrange over the top of the filling.

Decorate the edges as desired, and cut parallel vent lines in various sizes down the middle. Brush the crust with the beaten egg and sprinkle with raw sugar.

Cook on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for 35 minutes.

To prevent overbrowning, tent loosely with foil and continue to bake for another 20 minutes until filling is bubbling and crust is nicely browned. ❤

sweet treats

F ig & Pea r P ie

Wi t h Whipped Goat Cheese

Sarah Arnoff's Fig and Pear Pie

BAKED BY DEVOUR'S FORMER COPY EDITOR SARAH ARNOFF

Crust Ingredients 2 cups flour 2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled ¼ cup ice water 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar Filling 2-3 cups fresh figs 1 pound pears, peeled, cored and cut into cubes 2½ cups apple cider 1 cup pear brandy or ½ cup pear

SARAH ARNOFF

P

eople often think that because I work in a creative field, I must get super experimental in the kitchen. But baking, for me, is more of a clear-my-head stress reliever with lots of structure and precision. It’s really nice to just follow directions and have a tasty product at the end. I started baking pies specifically when looking for something different to bring to a Pie & Beer Day gathering a few years ago.

I’ve since become very fond of tracking down off-the-beatenpie recipes, like this fig and goat cheese one. Fresh figs taste wonderful with the goat cheese but dried work fine—you can source fresh figs from Liberty Fresh Market, but I was lucky enough to have a friend who grows them in his backyard.

brandy, ½ cup elderflower liqueur if you’re feeling fancy) ¼ cup honey 2 inch-wide strips of lemon zest ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves ⅛ teaspoon allspice Pinch of salt Whipped goat cheese 8 ounces plain soft goat cheese ½ cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Crust directions For the crust: Combine flour, sugar, salt and butter in a food processor.

Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine the ice water and apple cider vinegar and drizzle on top. Pulse until the dough just comes apart. Turn the dough out and pat into a disk. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

On a floured work surface, roll out the dough and set in a pie dish.

Refrigerate at least 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350. Line the crust with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans.

Bake for 20 minutes.

Remove the weights and foil, press out any bubbles and bake for 30 more minutes or until golden brown. Line crust edges with foil to prevent burning if necessary. Let cool completely.

Filling directions For the filling: In a large saucepan, combine figs, pears, apple cider, pear brandy, honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and salt. Bring to a boil, then down to a simmer. Simmer until the figs are plump and pears are tender, about 10-15 minutes.

Strain the liquid into a bowl and discard the lemon zest. Set fruit aside. Return the liquid to the saucepan and boil until it’s reduced to a thick syrup, about 15 minutes.

Combine goat cheese and honey in a bowl.

Beat with an electric mixer until the goat cheese is crumbly. Drizzle the cream into the bowl while mixing until it reaches a creamy consistancy. Beat in the vanilla. Spread goat cheese into the pie crust, making sure to coat the sides. Top with fruit. Decorate with extra pear slices and drizzle syrup on top. ❤ Devour Utah • may 2020 46

SWEET TREATS

Gingersnap Ice Crea m Sa ndwich

Gingersnap ice cream sandwich

COMPILED BY DARBY DOYLE

U

Ingredients ¾ cup unsalted, room-temperature butter 1½ cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt ⅓ cup plus 1½ tablespoons molasses 1 whole large egg 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons baking soda Directions Cream the butter, sugar and salt in a stand mixer with paddle attachment until light and fluffy.

Add molasses, mix well, scrape down sides of the bowl.

Add egg, mix well, scrape down sides of the bowl.

Combine all dry ingredients in a separate bowl, sift together.

With the stand mixer on lowest setting, slowly add the dry ingredients to bowl of stand mixer and mix until fully combined.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap 47 Devour Utah • May 2020

JOHN T0AYLOR

tahns are famously fanatical about ice cream. So, it seems fitting that pastry chef Alexa Norlin (formerly at Current and Handle PC/HSL) chose to share a version of the superlative ice cream sandos she serves at her wildly popular soft-serve ice cream truck, Normal, combining the spice-forward flavors of fall. Plan to make these treats in advance and keep frozen until ready to serve, saving crucial room in the oven on pie day.

and refrigerate at least 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.

Once chilled, scoop cookie dough and shape into about 20 2-tablespoon balls.

Place onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Bake at 325 for 10-12 minutes. You want the middle of the cookies to still look puffy. When you remove from the oven, smack the sheet tray down on a surface and the cookies should deflate.

Let cool for 5 minutes, then further cool on a rack to room temp.

If assembling immediately, freeze cookies for at least 30 minutes before sandwiching with ice cream.

Otherwise, the cookies may be stored in freezer zip-top bags or an airtight container for up to one week.

Cream cheese ice cream Ingredients 2¼ cups heavy cream 4 cups whole milk 1½ cups sugar 1½ teaspoons salt ½ cup glucose or light corn syrup 1 2/3 cups softened cream cheese 1 teaspoon xanthan gum (available in the baking section of most supermarkets) Directions Combine heavy cream, whole milk, sugar, salt and glucose in a heavy pot, bring to a simmer (stirring constantly so the dairy does not burn).

Remove from heat, pour into an ice bath (one large bowl filled 2/3 with ice and 1/3 with water, a smaller bowl on top of the ice water so the base can cool quickly).

Once cooled, combine ice cream base with xanthan gum and cream

NORMAL ICE CREAM | 525 TROLLEY SQUARE | SLC | 385-800-1367 | NORMAL.CLUB

DELIVERY HAPPENS!

Normal owner/ pastry chef Alexa Norlin

We YOU! Standing ready to serve!

Now offering delivery, shipping & curbside pick-up.

JOHN T0AYLOR

770 South 300 West, SLC · 801-834-6111 · www.rubysnap.com

cheese in blender or use a stick blender. Blend until fully smooth (can do in batches if needed to prevent splashing).

Once blended, let the base chill in the fridge overnight (this is very important!)

Spin ice cream base according to manufacturer’s instructions using a storebought frozen bowl mixer, Kitchen Aid ice cream bowl attachment or even dry ice.

Once the ice cream is finished spinning, transfer to a freezer safe container with airtight lid. Freeze uncovered for 1 hour if assembling immediately.

ON SUNDAYS WE BRUNCH

For longer storage, add lid after one-hour cooling.

Before assembling, allow ice cream to soften slightly at room temp to aid spreading between the cookies.

Assemble the sandwiches Remove ice cream and cookies from freezer, divide ice cream equally between the cookies and sandwich between cookie pairs.

Place sandwiches back in freezer for at least four hours. If not serving within 4-6 hours from prep, wrap each sandwich individually in plastic film. May be stored wrapped in an airtight container in the freezer for up to two weeks. ❤

Food curated by Executive Chef Matthew Anderson

See you soon...

321 S. Main St. SLC | (801)363-8888 | londonbelleslc.com M-S 4pm- 1 am | Sunday 11am-9pm Serving Brunch

Devour Utah • may 2020 48

Last BITE

Sprout a nd Proud

Did you plant your victory garden yet? In spite of it being an online-only sale this year, the annual spring plant sale fundraiser for Wasatch Community Gardens (a photo of their starts is pictured here) sold out of more than 1,500 orders in 14 hours.

Renew your spirit and soul with a garden

A

few years ago, my mother was lodged in the rehab wing of St. Mark’s Hospital.

Each morning, at the behest of physical therapists, she took to a walker for a shuffling orbit through the hallways. I followed along.

Each rotation took us by a common area.

There, I was surprised to see, was a waist-high bin of soil and an assortment of trowels, pots and seeds, which I took to be a garden therapy station.

As a gardener, I had experienced the therapeutic effect of soil and seed firsthand, but I had never thought much about it. I was a pre-Internet office worker, paid to manage projects, write memos, run meetings and talk on the telephone. At the end of the day, I decompressed by pulling weeds, thinning carrots and pruning tomato plants. An hour in the garden was not only more satisfying than eight hours at my desk, it was restorative.

Of the four benefits accruing to a gardener, two are related. The aesthetic pleasure of a well-tended garden contributes to the psychic lift that comes by way of dirty hands and soil-caked knees. A third benefit, the satisfaction of growing your own food, is as liberating as life off the grid. Finally, a gardener is attuned to a virtuous circle based on sunshine.

That annual cycle—which begins in dark December with the arrival of seed catalogs—has its own intrinsic appeal and its own waymarks. Before the vernal equinox, I would have a garden’s worth of seedlings reaching for grow lights. The longer days of spring found me pushing the season with lettuce, radishes and sugar snap peas; and by the summer solstice, beans and corn were closing ranks in long rows and the pea vines were empty. The corn and tomatoes ripened in August. The tomatoes lingered until a hard frost ushered in Indian summer.

Acorn squash followed the autumnal equinox, and Brussels sprouts benefitted from a cover of snow just weeks before the new seed catalogs arrived.

Ripe corn marked the cycle’s inflection point: by midAugust, my family could subsist entirely from the garden’s bounty. I gave bagfuls of vegetables to officemates 49 Devour Utah • May 2020

WASATCH COMMUNITY GARDENS

BY JOHN RASMUSON

each day. So many gardeners like me had late-summer, vegetable overload, the same joke circulated every year: Keep your car doors locked lest someone leave a zucchini in the back seat.

As we contend with coronavirus, we could all use a laugh or a surprise zucchini or—most of all—a garden.

Twenty million people cultivated victory gardens during World War II. In the time of COVID-19, a garden is not so much about food production as it is about a foothold in the eye of the storm that is calming and restorative.

Novices will find It easy to repurpose a patch of lawn or flower garden. All you need is soil, seed, water and six hours of sunshine a day. Start with a packet of leaf lettuce.

It is foolproof, prolific and harvestable in less than six weeks. I’ve tried many varieties, but I always come back to Black-Seeded Simpson.

Container gardening is an option for those with no ground to convert. Plastic buckets suffice so long as you make a drain hole in the bottom. Privilege plants that don’t sprawl, the likes of pepper, bush bean and eggplant.

Use smaller pots for cress, chives and cilantro so you can move them to a sunny windowsill when the nights turn cold. Grow nasturtiums! They will trail like cucumbers or climb like pole beans, and their bright flowers and roundish leaves are edible. They add color and peppery pizzazz to salads. Grow basil, too, and plant more than you think you will need. When it’s time to make pesto, there is never enough.

In Greek mythology, a fighter named Antaeus had his strength renewed every time he touched the earth. I believe people experience an Antaean Effect from their gardens. Has there ever been a better time to see if I am right? ❤

3 DEGREES

1oz Heavenly Vodka 2oz. orange juice 2oz. ginger ale Splash of blue curacao Mix and serve in a chilled glass

Devour Utah • may 2020 50

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SICILIAMIAUTAH.COM 51 Devour Utah • May 2020