Devour Utah July 2019

VOL. 5 NO. 7 • JULY 2019 • ROAD TRIP FREE COPY

d a o R p i r T

MOAB’S MOONFLOWER CO-OP, P. 25 PEACHY PALISADE, P. 29

A ‘Blue Highways ’ Tavern Tou r

P. 46

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 1

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Contents 11 Sundae Drives

Road-trip worthy snacks, drinks and desserts

BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE

17 Wild West Reimagined

Upscale glamping at Conestoga Ranch

BY HEATHER L. KING

21 Mountain High

High West Supper Club offers a delightful taste of the Old West

BY HEATHER L. KING

25 Moon Over Moab

Moonflower Co-op is a hub for Moab food connoisseurs

BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON

4 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

CLAIRE MCARTHUR

Who doesn’t need more fiber? SunCrest Orchard Alpacas and Fiber Work in Palisade, Colo., features a herd of adorable alpacas and beautifully made fiber products

29 When You Want to Visit Napa

But your wallet says ‘staycation,’ get your wine glass on at Palisade, Colo.

BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR

34 The Spread

Zion Canyon Brew Pub

BY MIKEY SALTAS

36 Drive-thru Vegetarian

Fuel your road trip with healthier fast-food options

BY AMANDA ROCK

38 Gathering the Goods Chef Jordan Miller forages for what’s in season

BY ELENI SALTAS

39 Devour This Recipe Chef Jordan Miller’s Blue Spruce Tip Dessert

BY ELENI SALTAS

42 If Jellies Are Your Jam

Summer is the time to strike out in search of native fruits

BY JAN STRIEFEL

46 Tavern Tour

Watering holes along Utah’s blue highways

BY DARBY DOYLE

50 Last Bite

O-Town Kitchen spreads the love while putting people back to work

BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ

NOW OPEN

IN FARMINGTON 895 EAST PROMONTORY (385) 988-3727

VOTED BEST ITALIAN! ANTICA SICILIA

COTTONWOOD

SICILIA MIA

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2020 East 3300 South Millcreek (385) 202-7236

2578 Bengal Blvd.

Cottonwood Heights (801) 666-6918

4536 S Highland Drive Salt Lake City (801) 274-0223

10 E Broadway Salt Lake City (385) 420-4114

SICILIAMIAUTAH.COM Devour Utah • JULY 2019 5

Contribu tors STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS Edi torial

Editor JERRE WROBLE Copy Editor CLAIRE MCARTHUR Contributors DARBY DOYLE, HEATHER L. KING, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, AMANDA ROCK, ELENI SALTAS, MIKEY SALTAS, JAN STRIEFEL

Jan Striefel is a landscape architect and planner, recently retired from the company she founded 32 years ago—Landmark Design. With an enduring interest and appreciation for native plants, she is the author of a little book called Fruits of These Wild Plants

Production

Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, SEAN HAIR, CHELSEA NEIDER

Business /Office

Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS

Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor.

She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.

Marketing

Director of Events and Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH Marketing Assistant ANNA KASER

Circulation

Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO

Sales

Magazine Advertising Director Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF KYLE KENNEDY ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KATIE GOSS, MIEKA SAWATZKI

Mika Lee and Cait Lee are food writers known for food binging, test kitchens and food photography. Their adventurous palates have taken them around the world.

Follow their exploits @crazyfullasians

Cover photo of Mount Garfield rising above Palisade, Colo., by Claire McArthur Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com

Copperfield Publishing

Copyright 2019 All rights reserved

@DevourUtah

6 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

@DevourUtah

@DevourUtah

Herbalist Merry Lycett Harrison owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs and is a professional member of the American Herbalists Guild. Her botanical research has been published in HerbalGram (the Journal of the American Botanical Council) and the Journal of Utah Archaeology. She offers classes in medicinal and culinary herbs and herb gardening. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs.com.

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From the Editor

E

Happy Motoring

born Books’ Main Street location is closing this summer, and it’s hard to resist a 50% off sale on their huge inventory.

A happy score from their cookbook row was this diminutive hardback— the Yelp of its day: The Ford Treasury of Favorite Recipes from Famous Eating Places. Published in 1950 by the Ford Motor Company, the introduction reads, “We hope that it may be useful to travelers who know from experience that exciting food in an unusual atmosphere is often the highlight of an interesting motor trip— and the compensation for a tiresome one.”

That’s the way it goes for the foodie: the discovery of restaurants, bistros, bakeries, farmers markets, pubs and street vendors encountered while traveling is every bit as compelling as seeing Mount Rushmore or Old Faithful erupting—maybe even more so. For food lovers, visiting certain eateries, such as Boulder’s Hell’s Backbone Grill and Maddox Ranch House in Perry or Heber’s Spin Cafe, is the reason for gassing up the car in the first place.

Ford’s Famous Eating Places included three eateries in Utah, one of which is still around: Kanab’s Parry Lodge.

“In the hub of the national park area, this lodge is a favorite with tourists because of its true Western hospitality and its home-cooked meals,” reads the introduction to a 1950s pot roast recipe.

However, today, you’ll need to seek out lunch and dinner at Kanab’s other highly rated eateries because the Parry serves only breakfast to its guests.

Two erstwhile Salt Lake City restaurants were also included. El Rancho Cordova, once located at 532 W. 300 North, offered up a Mexican meatball soup recipe, Albondigas Soup a la Cordova. “Native Spanish dishes served by waiters in gay costumes make this like a bit of 8 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

old Spain,” the introduction reads.

“Reservations necessary.”

Finally, there was a recipe for broiled squab chicken from the once stately and since demolished (in 1983) Newhouse Hotel at 400 S. Main in downtown Salt Lake City. “Chef Mel Monthey has long been noted as the ‘the man behind the food’ at this hotel,” the recipe’s intro reads, “and now his creations are adding to the enjoyment of the new Royal Room.” (As an aside, Chef Monthey, who passed in 2003 at the age of 89, also operated the restaurant and catering for the equally grand Belvedere Hotel on Social Avenue prior to its units converting to condos.) For those wanting a taste of a posh midcentury-hotel dish, here’s Chef Monthey’s recipe: Broiled Squab Chicken 2 ½ pound broiler Wild rice, cooked ½ clove garlic 1 can chopped mushrooms ½ cup chopped parsley 1 quart brown sauce Orange slice Maraschino cherries Bone broiler and stuff with wild rice.

Bruise garlic, then add mushrooms, parsley and brown sauce. Cover squab with this mixture and bake in hot oven for 25 minutes. Garnish with orange slice and maraschino cherries before serving.

It’s our wish that with Devour Utah’s “Road Trip” issue, our readers be well guided to road-trip worthy snacks, food co-ops, orchards, wineries, food foraging and friendly taverns and pubs in the Beehive and beyond. If we missed your favorite spot in this issue, post your tips on our Facebook or Instagram pages.

—Jerre Wroble

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SUNDAE

DRIVES Cool down with these road-trip worthy snacks, drinks and desserts STORY AND PHOTOS

BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE

The Walt Mann Sundae at Brigham City’s Peach City drive-in

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 11

Blueberry Lemonade Refresher Facial

TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2018

BOSS 2016

Best Odgen Restaurant

2015 - 2018

2012 - 2017

210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi

12 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Refresh & Rejuvenate with Blueberry Antioxidants & Vitamin C

MIND. BODY. SOULSTICE Jordan Landing Fort Union 7138 Plaza Center Drive 6981 S. Park Centre Drive 801-255-3655 West Jordan, Ut 84084 Salt Lake City, UT 84121 www.SoulsticeDaySpa.com

G

ot your motor running? If so, it’s mandatory on any road trip to stop for a sip and a nibble along the way. Treat yourself to something different than your usual iced coffee down the street or soda from your cooler. We’ve been roaming the Wasatch Front to find the perfect stop for your summer sojourn. From Taiwanese bubble tea to Italian ice, we’ve got you covered. Life is a highway; make sure you’re not running on empty.

Walt Mann Sundae

Don’t worry, Peach City is not another Utah town that you’ve never heard of. But it is one of the last drive-in diners in northern Utah. Just five minutes from Interstate 15 in Brigham City, owner Kevin Hall has been serving up Peach City’s traditional shakes, sundaes and specialty sodas (with recipes dating back to 1937) plus a few additions of his own. “We tried to keep up with the keto and gluten-free trends, but that’s just not who we are,” Hall admits, which is why he holds true to the diner’s retro vibe, complete with tableside jukeboxes and black-and-white checkered floors. If you happen to pass through on the second or fourth Thursday this summer, check out Peach City’s hot-rod car event that has become a town favorite.

The Walt Mann sundae was created as tribute to a customer by the same name who complained the sundaes were not big enough. This one features six scoops of ice cream (chosen from among 18 flavors) that are then topped with caramel, fudge, nuts, whip and cherries.

Peach City 306 N. Main St., Brigham City 435-723-3923 ThePeachCity.com

The Craze

When en route to Antelope Island’s bison, birds and scenery, consider quenching your thirst on Main Street in Layton at Soda Crazy.

Owner Shellie Nielsen mixes up the Utah soda scene with another unique option: Italian ice. Churned usually from a puree of fruit, sugar and water, Italian ice is dairy free and brings a fantastic consistency to sodas.

The Craze, with layers of custard on the top and bottom and Italian ice in the middle, is by far the most popular item.

Some flavor combinations include strawberry mango water ice with vanilla custard, coconut water ice with chocolate custard and their newest drink item, espresso blended with coconut water ice. The texture is a fine-grain, smooth feel compared to the coarse ice of snow cones.

All ice and desserts are made in-house and selected flavors are made with fresh fruit. It’s the perfect stop for a sweet bite on your highway to hell-o.

Soda Crazy About Italian Ice 1058 N. Main St., Layton 801-546-3859 SodaCrazy.com

The Craze from Soda Crazy in Layton is made with layers of custard and Italian ice

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 13

SPICE UP YOUR SUMMER! Coconut Shrimp Tempura Roll: Crystal Shrimp, Cream Cheese, Shredded Coconut and finished with a Sweet Chili Sauce ONLY AT SIMPLY SUSHI

3 CATERING OPTIONS TO SERVE YOU! PICK UP, DROP OFF, OR STAFFED EVENTS

Proudly serving SLC and the valley for over 12 years.

Endless sushi, a la carte, take out and to go options available 7 days a week.

A fun, casual, affordable experience for the whole family.

FANCY TACOS & FINE TEQUILAS

Downtown Salt Lake City 400 South 200 West Salt Lake City, UT

14 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Smith’s Shopping Center 7117 S. Redwood Road West Jordan, UT Open Daily from 11:30am to 8:30pm Open Sundays at 12:30pm

1615 S. FOOTHILL DRIVE | 385-259-0712 4670 HOLLADAY VILLAGE PLAZA (2300 EAST) | 801-676-9706 149 EAST 200 SOUTH | 385-259-0940 6154 SOUTH FASHION PLACE BLVD | 801-266-2487 1688 W TRAVERSE PARKWAY (LEHI) | 801-331-8033

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK I T A Q U E R I A 2 7 . C O M

A lineup of delicious beverages at Chat Chat Boba in Orem

Milk Tea (and More)

Located inside the University Mall food court in Orem, Chat Chat Boba had its grand opening in February. Since then, it’s taken off with locals and out-of-towners alike. The menu is fully customizable and suits all palates—with choices ranging from fresh-fruit smoothies to classic milk tea as well as popping boba and jelly mix-ins. Owner Kevin Duan imports all his ingredients from Taiwan, the origin of boba. Duan’s hopes to eventually expand his business to become a weekender hangout and a place to grab a drink before exploring some beautiful mountains and lakes in the area.

Choose from among our favorites shown above: the honeydew milk tea with strawberry jelly, coconut milk tea with strawberry popping boba, kumquat and lemon tea with rainbow jelly, classic boba milk tea, and strawberry banana smoothie with mango popping boba. Our advice? Bring a crew and try them all!

Chat Chat Boba 575 E. University Parkway, Orem 626-215-9734 Chat-Chat-Boba.business.site

Ivie Juice Bar’s Kimball Bowl with locations in Orem, Provo, Daybreak and Draper

Kimball Bowl

With a motto of “health starts here,” Ivie Juice Bar is a family-owned business founded by Nancy Gonsalves and her daughter, Ivie. As a Utah Valley University distance runner, Ivie changed her view of food and, instead of looking for quick weight loss, looked for “good fuel.”

Health-conscious fans from across the valley drive to any of their four locations for a protein shake or cold-pressed juice. Their nutritious acai bowl is a great, naturally sweet alternative snack without syrup or sugar sure to satisfy a sweet-tooth craving as you embark on your next outdoor adventure. The upscale atmosphere at the Provo location invites you to take a longer break from the road and update the ’gram.

The Kimball bowl is made with blended acai, strawberry, blueberry, pineapple, banana, peanut butter, protein and apple juice and topped with crunchy granola, fresh cut fruit, honey drizzle, coconut flakes and coconut sugar. ❖ Ivie Juice Bar Locations in Orem, Provo, Daybreak and Draper IvieJuiceBar.com

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 15

7am-1am / 7 Days A Week • 3231 S. 9 0 0 E. • 801-466-3273

Try our fresh Blueberries & Cream Crepé with homemade Key Lime Cream JUL SPE Y CIAL

Greenhouse Effect Treat Yourself to locally crafted coffee and sweet or savory crepes

FINE JEWERLY PIERCING MASSAGE REIKI CARD READING 16 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

20 1 7

801.810.9247

245 E. 300 S. Salt Lake City

Conestoga Ranch on 18 acres at Bear Lake offers family ‘glamping,’ with resort amenities combined with the adventure of tent camping

Wild West Reimagined

With the upscale ‘glamping’ and dining at Bear Lake, you might need to remind yourself you’re roughing it STORY AND PHOTOS BY HEATHER L. KING

T

he Utah town of Garden City is often called the gateway to Bear Lake—famous for raspberry shakes and gorgeous turquoise-blue water. As the destination has matured over the years, Bear Lake has come to offer vacationers whatever their wanderlust demands.

With the addition of glamorous camping (glamping) at Conestoga Ranch Glamping Resort (427 N. Paradise Parkway, Garden City, 385-626-7395, ConestogaRanch.com), travelers can experience adventure, culinary surprises and cozy gatherings with friends and family without leaving the resort.

From now through Sept. 28, glamping guests can rent covered wagon bunkhouses or grand tent accommodations that feature unexpected services such as a fire valet and a complimentary s’mores kit. This luxury hotel-meets-summer campout appeals to both families and couples, allowing guests to commune with nature while still enjoying indoor plumbing and fine dining. Onsite yoga classes help guests to recharge mentally and physically.

Aside from the spectacular views and unique living spaces, Conestoga Ranch also has another not-to-miss offering: Campfire Grill (844-464-5267, CampfireGrillRestaurant. com). Housed in a large timber-framed, open-air tent structure, Campfire Grill features a menu built around a 700-degree wood-fired oven at the heart of the restaurant.

Serving up gourmet fare for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, the eatery provides stunning views of the Caribbean of the West.

For breakfast, get your day on the water off to a great start with a hearty breakfast enjoyed in the open-air restaurant.

Whether housemade granola floats your boat or you’re angling for the Conestoga Ranch scramble served with home fries, most appetites can be satisfied.

Grab lunch to go and wow your taste buds with the farmfresh Garden City salad featuring arugula, local raspberries, sunflower seeds, a chunk of honeycomb dripping with Slide Ridge honey and a tantalizing raspberry vinaigrette dressing.

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 17

Campfire Grill’s prosciutto and arugula pizza with roasted garlic cream and mozzarella

Think pink: Bear Lake’s famous raspberry shakes

Bear Lake’s turquoise waters beckon Salt Lakers north

Campfire Grill’s sesame seared ahi tuna steak with peanut sauce

Crepes and Coffee’s savory crepes are a great start to any morning COURTESY PHOTOS

Or sit down with the Campfire Grill burger showcasing Bear Lake-raised beef (a cross of wagyu and Angus breeds).

Dinnertime is when Campfire Grill really shines. Start out with barbecue chicken wings and truffled French fries that, after a day of sun and fun on the lake, pair nicely with the craft beer offerings. Or watch the sun set behind the covered wagons with a glass of rosé and a woodfired pizza of prosciutto and arugula layered over roasted garlic cream and mozzarella and cooked to a bubbling crisp. Don’t miss the sesame seared ahi tuna steak with peanut sauce, perfect to share around the table or devour as a light meal. Finally, the luscious duck breast with a black pepper citrus glaze had our mouths watering for more.

End your evening with a warm and gooey castiron skillet cookie topped with vanilla-bean ice cream before retiring back to your campsite to take in Mother Nature’s own visual show as you roast marshmallows over the fire.

At Conestoga Ranch, camping has never been so delicious—or glamorous!

18 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Go Ahead, Crepe My Day

Just down the road from Conestoga Ranch, you’ll find a charming respite serving up—you guessed it—crepes and coffee. But wine and beer are on the menu, too. Sit down under the trees in one of the many patio seating areas as you plot your next adventure at Bear Lake. To start the day, enjoy breakfast crepes such as the Popeye filled with spinach, ham, tomatoes, eggs and cheese. If sweet crepes are more your style, try the citrusy lemon soufflé with lemon and whipped cream or a Garden City special—the Bear Lake raspberry crepe filled with raspberries, drizzled with raspberry sauce and topped with whipped cream. Finally, you’ll find a significant selection of savory crepes rounding out the delectable offerings here.

Crepes and Coffee 235 N. Bear Lake Blvd., Garden City 435-946-2696 CrepesAndCoffeeBearLake.com

Bear Lake Raspberry Shakes

No trip to Bear Lake is complete without consuming at least one raspberry shake. There are half a dozen drive-ins and eateries along Bear Lake Boulevard at which to order Garden City’s favorite summertime treat, a cup overflowing with ice cream and local raspberries, as well as many other flavors.

Longtime favorites are Merlin’s and Hometown Drive Inn, but, based on what your ideal shake thickness and size is, LaBeau’s and Zipz also have their fan base. No matter your choice, expect long lines and sticky surfaces, but the summertime trip is much sweeter because of it! ❖ Multiple locations Garden City

SERVING DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH

(801) 466-9827 | HARBORSLC.COM | 2302 E PARLEY’S WAY SLC, UT

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 19

THE PATIO IS OPEN!

3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com 20 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

The Refectory at High West Distillery’s Supper Club artfully pairs decadent dishes with whiskey

Mountain High

High West Supper Club offer a taste of an Old West saloon STORY AND PHOTOS BY HEATHER L. KING

L

eave the summer heat of Salt Lake Valley and venture into the Old West, as in Utah’s first legal distillery since 1870, near Wanship.

Offering tours and tastings from within the Wasatch-Uinta mountains, The Refectory at High West Distillery is open to whiskey lovers Wednesday through Sunday.

What’s more, High West has also launched the Thursday night Supper Club running from 6-9 p.m. (last seating at 8 p.m.). Each Thursday, the 30,000-square-foot world-class distillery and visitor center features a chef’s set menu of country-western cuisine for $40 per guest, accented with exclusive High West cocktails and whiskey pairings (beverages have an additional charge).

To begin your supper club evening, you’ll arrive at the Blue Sky Ranch gatehouse and board the High West shuttle in the parking lot area. Your driver/tour guide will share some history of the land and game found there, Blue Sky’s equestrian heritage, future plans for the distillery and some

Western facts (or lore) as you wind your way toward The Refectory.

Once inside, you’ll be treated to the ambiance of a Western saloon with all the modern amenities. Used whiskey barrels surprise at every turn as you make your way into the dining room, past the stunning back-lit bar as live music from local performers, such as the throaty and enthralling Michelle Moonshine, set the stage for your evening meal to come.

Start with a cocktail from the bar menu—a classic such as the sweet and spicy High West lemonade or location-exclusive offerings including the Lonesome Dove, Pearl Hart or Little Miss Utah.

Once your drinks are on the way, sit back to enjoy the night—take in the views of the valley or watch the bartender work his magic as your meal begins to arrive. Served familystyle, the four-course dinner menu changes weekly and with the seasons but always features a first course, double entrees with hearty sides and dessert.

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 21

20 1 8

serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 2005 E. 2700 SOUTH, SLC FELDMANSDELI.COM @ FELDMANSDELI OPEN TUES - SAT TO GO ORDERS: (801) 906-0369

We have moved to the newly restored to glory Historic Eagle Building.

Italian Cuisine 404 South W Temple ´ Salt Lake City, Utah 801-364-8833 ´ www.caffemolise.com 22 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Seared ahi tuna accented with a garlic and fennel vinaigrette

The High West lemonade

Dessert includes a warm apple and whiskey-maple cobbler topped with whiskey whipped ice cream

Our first course featured a delicate red pear poached in honey and American Prairie whiskey atop gem lettuce, toasted almonds and a creamy goat cheese mousse.

Next up, our entrée course arrived on a wooden presentation board laid out with mouthwatering sage-roasted wagyu tri-tip and seared ahi tuna accented with a garlic and fennel vinaigrette. The proteins were complemented with an initially mundane-sounding farro pilaf that ended up delighting us, thanks to the whiskey butter and sea salt roasted asparagus. The suggested whiskey pairing of Yippee Ki-Yay brought notes of cedarwood and dried herbs to the course.

As all good things must come to end, The Refectory brought our meal to a close with a warm apple and whiskey-maple cobbler topped with cornbread waffle crumble and whiskey whipped ice cream. Yes, it was as comforting and decadent as it sounds.

On its menu, High West points out that pairing whiskey with food “is one of the most underappreciated experiences on the planet.” They aim to enlighten their guests with the Supper Club takes on whiskey and food that are sure to delight the senses and increase your thirst for a trip back in time to the Old West. ❖ High West Supper Club Thursday evenings from 6-9 p.m.

The Refectory at High West Distillery 27649 Old Lincoln Highway, Building No.7, Wanship 435-649-8300 HighWest.com Devour Utah • JULY 2019 23

Taste the Tradition

801.485.1031 2057 East 3300 South finecandies.com

801-713-9423 5692 South 900 East Murray, UT 84121

www.japanesegrill.com 24 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

@yoshiensogrill

Moab’s Moonflower Co-op is filled with all things nutritious, including food for thought

Moon Over Moab

The Moonflower Co-op is a hub for Moab food connoisseurs

BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON

I

f Moab’s spectacular national parks and red rock canyons are on your list of summer road-trip destinations, consider a stop at the friendly Moonflower Community Cooperative. It will not only fill your cooler, camper or backpack with healthy and nutritious meals, snacks and groceries but will put you in touch with the spirit of Moab.

As Utah’s first member-owned natural foods co-op, the original “Moab Co-op” began as a health-food buying club in the mid-1970s that subsequently evolved through changes in business models and location upgrades since its founding.

In 2013, it became consumer owned and, after a significant renovation in 2017, enjoyed a grand reopening. It now serves the colorful and diverse Moab community, operating in accordance with the cooperative principles adopted by the 1995 General Assembly of the International Co-operative Alliance.

Entering the modest sun-lit space, the sweet vital scent of fresh produce permeates the air. With a mission to provide “socially responsible foods, goods and education to promote a healthy, sustainable community,” Moonflower works with

local growers of the area as much as possible to offer such items as flintnapper Greg Nunn’s huge sweet carrots, bags of spinach, lettuces, arugula, chard and cucumbers from Castle Valley Farms, kale from Cinco Cedros Farm in Blanding and favored fruits from the orchards of Paradox Valley and the Western Slope of Colorado. The large map on the wall features the names and locations of these produce suppliers so shoppers can be informed and confident in their quality.

The nearby beverage selection is vast. No super-sweet colas here. Rather, you’ll find bottled juices, spicy ginger ales, chilled teas and coffees and Kombucha blends here.

The Datura Deli is bursting with daily selections from the small on-site kitchen. The chilled case offers organic meat and veggie sandwiches, wraps and a wide selection of salads made with high protein grains and garden-fresh veggies. Choose ginger-sesame noodles or superfood salad, organic fried chicken, falafel snacks or hummus dips sold in compostable packaging. A cabinet of baked goods from Moonflower’s ovens display breads such as focaccia, ciabatta and challah as well as cookies, scones and muffins. Next Devour Utah • JULY 2019 25

Contemporary Japanese Dining

L U N C H • D I N N E R • C O C K TA I L S

18 WEST MARKET STREET • 801.519.9595 26 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Salads are made with high protein grains and garden-fresh veggies

Enjoy a variety of Moonflower’s freshbaked goods, including delicious scones

Datura Deli’s organic wraps and sandwiches are perfect for picnics and outdoor journeys

Vegan delights PHOTOS COURTESY OF MOONFLOWER CO-OP

to it sits the hot bar of soups and daily specials. The week’s selections are posted in advance and might include cottage pie, Lebanese turnovers, chile relleno casserole, kung pao or barbecue tempeh with orzo. Moonflower is committed to ingredient integrity and uses local, organic and pesticide-free ingredients. (Moab strives to be a wastefree town, so BYO bags, dishes and utensils if you can.)

Dietary restrictions? No problem.

Moonflower stays current on alternative dietary choice trends. As such, vegetarian, vegan, gluten free, keto and paleo offerings abound.

One would think Moonflower would need long aisles and deep shelves for its varied inventory of 20,000 SKUs, but no.

They have mastered the art of making every tidy inch useful and attractive.

In the refrigerator aisle, high-quality grass-fed organic meat selections are sourced from Ruby Ranch, whose cows

graze on local pastures. New York strips, ribeye steaks and ground beef along with cuts of lamb from Coyote Lamb right up the river road in Spanish Valley are also available. Because Moonflower communicates directly with local ranchers, they can fine-tune their orders to meet customers’ requests and offer reasonable pricing.

Customers have welcomed the addition of charcuterie and imported cheeses, such as Italian pecorino in wheels from Caputo’s in Salt Lake City.

Exotic scents waft through the aisle with the bulk bins of soup mixes, spices, herbs, teas and coffee from Moab Coffee Roasters. You’ll find legumes and flours from Adobe Mills in Dove Creek as well as a wide variety of local honeys. Pasta, grains, condiments, chips, nuts, locallymade granola and a huge selection of hot sauces fill up the next aisle.

Of course, there would have to be an aisle of environmentally friendly

dry goods and shelves of nutritional supplements and regional offerings of therapeutic herbal preparations, such as those from Sundial Medicinals, Wise Raven, Victoria White Eagle and even my own company, Millcreek Herbs.

Manager Derek Whitworth puts it succinctly: “All our products are vetted.

People buy a unique product mix at Moonflower. We like to buy direct, be different, cater to the community and boost the local economy.”

Visitors to the area should know that you do not have to be a member to shop there. With a mission to be “a hub for health, wellness and community building,” after shopping at Moonflower, you can’t help but feel you’ve connected with Moab at a deeper level. ❖

Moonflower Community Cooperative 39 E. 100 North, Moab 435-259-5712 Moonflower.coop Devour Utah • JULY 2019 27

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Peachy Palisade: Park the car and rent bikes to travel along the scenic Fruit and Wine Byway

When You Want to Visi t Napa ... but your wallet says ‘staycation,’ fill your wine glass at Palisade, Colo., instead STORY AND PHOTOS BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR

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sun-soaked valley surrounded by towering red mesas makes for an alluring Utah road trip. While the quaint town of Palisade, Colo., boasts a rich agricultural history—especially when it comes to grapes and peaches—the town is a pinkies-down foodie destination with ample opportunities for wine tasting and sampling the region’s farm-to-table cuisine.

Palisade is a mere four hour’s drive southeast of Salt Lake City, making it an ideal weekend getaway for Utahns in search of a change of scenery. With beautiful landscapes, down-to-earth proprietors and endless recreation opportunities, it’s worth the trip—and the four episodes of murder mystery podcasts your spouse might make you listen to on the way there.

Wine With a View

Located within the Grand Valley appellation, Palisade is home to two-thirds of Colorado’s vineyard acreage and more than one-quarter of its wineries. The region’s microclimate of sunny days, dry air and cool nights results in hearty grape harvests that are transformed into award-winning wines.

With nearly 30 vineyards to choose from, there’s no wrong way to go wine tasting in Palisade. But if you’re looking to sample more than a couple of glasses of wine, opt for an alternative mode of transportation. Rent bikes at Rapid Creek Cycles and Paddleboards (239 Main St., Palisade, 970-4649266, RapidCreekCycles.com) to cruise the scenic Fruit and Wine Byway (VisitPalisade.com), book a chauffeur and slick ride through Absolute Prestige Limo (1351 Q Road, Loma, 970-858-8500, APLimo.com) or ride between vineyards in a horse-drawn carriage through JR’s Carriage (2125 J. Road, Palisade, 719-671-7145, JRsCarriage.com).

Carlson Vineyards (461 35 Road, Palisade, 970-464-5554, CarlsonVineyards. com) describes itself as a vineyard that doesn’t treat wine as a “nectar of snobs.”

Here, you can sample an assortment of dry, semi-sweet and sweet wines on a shaded lawn leading up to acres of grape vines. Kick things off with a dry wine—

Devour Utah • JULY 2019 29

Gary and Linda Brauns of Restoration Vineyards

Enjoy a non-Utah-sized martini at Inari’s A Palisade Bistro.

At Inari’s A Palisade Bistro, try the grilled sea scallops resting atop cauliflower grits, applewood smoked bacon, corn and sweet pepper relish.

Order The Palisade Café 11.0’s jamon and manchego, served with ripe summer tomatoes drizzled in a pesto vinaigrette.

the dry gewürztraminer with notes of tropical fruit and roses is fantastic—before sampling the winery’s fruit wines, made with peaches, plums and cherries grown less than a mile away. “The biggest thing with semi-sweet and sweet wines is having that acidity backbone to balance the sweetness,” owner Garrett Portra says.

A few minutes down the road, Restoration Vineyards (3594 E. 1/2 Road, Palisade, 970-985-0832, RestorationVineyards.com) is churning out a small-yet-memorable selection of wines produced

by Gary and Linda Brauns. After leaving the corporate world, the couple started a new career on a once-struggling vineyard that now offers sweeping views of the Grand Mesa and Bookcliffs, a luscious grassy lawn for tastings and a selection of old Mercedes Benz on display that Gary restores. “Restoration has several meanings, from how we were able to bring back the vines and the cars I restore, but I also think it restored my wife and my spirit in business and having fun with it,” Gary says.

The vineyard’s sémillon is slightly sweet with notes of Mandarin orange, while the much-loved barbera is complex with spicy notes and a smooth finish.

Round out a day of wine tasting with a stop at Meadery of the Rockies (3701 G Road, Palisade, 970-464-7899, ColoradoWine. com/winery/meadery-of-the-rockies) for a selection of meads and dessert wines made with raw orange blossom honey and a variety of fruits. The cherry honey wine is a satisfying blend of sweet and tart, but for a real indulgence, sample the chocolate raspberry honey wine.

30 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Creative Dining Palisade’s agricultural influence extends beyond the glass; the region’s products find their way onto the menus of the eclectic eateries centralized in the historic downtown.

For a delicious farm-to-fork lunch, dine alfresco on the patio at The Palisade Café 11.0 (113 W. Third St., Palisade, 970-4642888, PalisadeCafe11.com) under a canopy of hops. The café’s menu features dishes like jamon and manchego, served with juicy tomato slices and drizzled in a pesto vinaigrette; the Gunny grilled cheese, made with three varieties of cheese from nearby Rocking W Cheeses (5644 CO-348, Olathe, 970- 323-9322, RockingWCheese.com); and the brisket cheesesteak, crafted with 12-hour-roasted brisket on naan bread with swiss cheese, horseradish aioli, caramelized onions, mushrooms, red peppers and local greens.

To satisfy your sweet tooth, walk two doors down to Slice O’ Life Bakery (105 W. Third St., Palisade, 970-464-0577) for a piece of decadent cinnamon honey cake with layers of orange curd, raspberries and orange whipped cream—or any of the dozens of pastries made by owner Mary Lincoln for the last 40 years.

Around the corner, Inari’s A Palisade Bistro (336 Main, Palisade, 970-464-4911, InarisBistro.com) —named for the Japanese spirit of rice, agriculture and industry—is an upscale dining experience best reserved for dinner. Inari’s seasonal menu is a cultural hodgepodge, with a Southern-inspired dish like grilled sea scallops resting atop cauliflower grits, applewood smoked bacon, corn and sweet pepper relish gracing the same

Celebrating the Red, White & Blue!

All Hail the Peach Every August, the town of Palisade celebrates its agricultural mascot, the peach. The four-day Palisade Peach Festival (PalisadePeachFest.com), held Aug. 15-18 this year, features a market of vendors selling all-things peach, peach eating contests, ample live music, a peach-themed chef cook-off, orchard tours, a parade, foot races and a car show.

For the real peach-ophile, snag tickets to Feast in the Fields held on both Friday and Saturday night of the festival. Guests will enjoy a gourmet four-course meal, centered around Palisade’s harvest and paired with local wines, in the middle of an orchard. Past menus have included dishes such as peach burrata salad, pork tenderloin stuffed with Palisade peaches and cherries, and seared scallops with a peach balsamic drizzle.

Tickets are $110 per person.

A weekend family pass for the entire festival costs $20, though individual weekend and day passes are also available at varying rates for adults, seniors and children.

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Devour Utah • JULY 2019 31

table as a chile relleno and Southwestern risotto with black beans, corn, golden raisins, squash, ranchero sauce, salsa and crema. At the bistro, Utahns can also rejoice over a gin martini that actually fills the glass, not just wets the bottom.

While cruising Palisade, keep an eye out for an RV-turned-food truck serving up authentic French crêpes. After several decades working as a chef in Florida, Frenchman Eric Favier retired to travel around the country with his wife, Kathleen. But the desire to cook persisted, and the couple decided to convert their home on wheels into something new. Chez Pierre Crêperie (850-508-1636, Facebook.com/ ChezPierreCreperie), which can usually be found parked at Restoration Vineyards on weekends, offers savory crêpes (ratatouille and shrimp and zucchini, for example), but their sweet crêpe with chocolate ganache and bananas is the real winner.

Something’s Abrew There’s more to drink in Palisade than wine and oversize martinis.

Palisade Brewing Company (200 Peach Ave., Palisade, 970-4641462, PalisadeBrewingCompany.com ) is cranking out American-style craft beers, which, if you can still button your pants at this point, pair well with their pulled-pork nachos covered in beer queso and pickled jalapeños.

The Dirty Hippy dark wheat ale is one of the brewery’s most popular beers. Coming in at 5.3% ABV, the ale is made with chocolate and caramel malts that are enhanced with the help of an orange slice. The hop-forward Off Belay American IPA (7% ABV) is a staff favorite with its bold flavors of orange zest, grapefruit and pine.

For something a little stronger, head to Peach Street Distillers (144 Kluge Ave., Palisade, 970-464-1128, PeachStreetDistillers.com) to sample a dizzying array of gin, whiskey, vodka, brandy, eau de vie, d’agave, grappa and amaro made from produce grown in Palisade and other nearby Grand Valley towns. From the tasting room, the housemade bloody mary garnished with pickled okra, pepper and celery is a go-to for locals. After a distillery tour, grab a bottle of the mix and Goat Artisan Vodka as a souvenir.

For a mellower experience, head to the coffee and wine shop Pressed Coffee and Wine Bar (392 W. Third St., Palisade, 970-464-2090) and savor a lavender almond milk matcha latte with CBD-infused honey.

Extracted from hemp grown on co-owner Jaime Cox’s nearby farm, the CBD is also available for sale as extracts and even infused jams. ❖

Once-retired French chef Eric Favier is now crafting gourmet crêpes from his RV

Wine tasting and crêpes from food truck Chez Pierre Crêperie go hand-inhand at Restoration Vineyards

Palisade Brewing Company offers a wide-ranging selection of Americanstyle craft beers

Edible souvenirs Stop at Anita’s Pantry and Produce (625 37 1/4 Road, Palisade, 970-985-2282, AnitasPantry.org) for fruit pies, fresh produce and locally made oils, vinegars, jams and salsas.

Check out the shop at Sage Creations Organic Farm (3555 E. Road, Palisade, 970-623-9556, SageCreationsOrganicFarm.com) for all-things lavender, including

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Enjoy the views on Palisade Brewing Company’s inviting patio

lavender-spiced jams, edible lavender for cooking, wreaths, sprays, soaps and more.

For a soft, Palisade-made hat, rug or yarn—plus some QT with adorable animals—go to SunCrest Orchard Alpacas and Fiber Work (3608 E. 1/4 Road, Palisade, 970464-4862). Listening to owner Mike McDermott talk about alpacas with passion and knowledge is a treat in and of itself.

Get a room!

Accommodations in Palisade are limited, but what is available is unique and worth booking early.

Spoke and Vine (424 W. Eighth St., Palisade, 970-4642211, SpokeAndVineMotel. com) is a newly remodeled motel in the heart of Palisade featuring hip decor. The dogfriendly motel (they even offer beds and bowls) is just a short walk from restaurants and even offers bike rentals for its guests.

The Victorian-style Wine Country Inn (777 Grande River Drive, Palisade, 970-464-5777, ColoradoWineCountryInn.com) is located among 21 acres of vines. The grapes are harvested and used to create the inn’s signature wines, which guests can sample at the afternoon tastings. The inn serves classic cuisine at its Caroline’s Restaurant and Tapestry Lounge.

Palisade Basecamp (985 N. River Road, Palisade, 970-4629712, PalisadeBasecamp.com) is a camping and RV park resort located along the Colorado River. The resort offers hookups for RVs and trailers, tent camping, cabin rentals and country home suites.

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Watching the Watchman: The views from Zion Canyon Brew Pub are almost as awe-inspiring as those inside Zion National Park

Spread the

Zion Canyon Brew Pub

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fter completing one of the many bucket-list hikes at Zion National Park—Weeping Rock, Angel’s Landing or The Narrows— usually the first place you’re drawn to is one that serves truly satisfying food and drink designed to quell a raging appetite. Zion Brewery, located in Springdale just a stone’s throw from the park entrance, is that place.

As Southern Utah’s first microbrewery, the establishment handcrafts a variety of beers such as Saison du Jardin, Jamaican-style Lager, Foray Pomegranate, Springdale Amber, Echo Canyon, Burnt Mountain Brown and more, all of which can be enjoyed with a 34 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

BY MIKEY SALTAS

full lunch and dinner served seven days a week.

The stone exterior of the brew pub blends in seamlessly with the surrounding red rock at the entrance to Zion Canyon. The pub’s interior offers subtle red and brown tones and also houses live music some nights. The true treasure is the view from the patio tabletops, almost rivaling views that can be found in Zion National Park itself.

Of course, finding an available table for your hiking party from which to enjoy that view might be the true challenge.

As a brewery, Zion offers a plethora of brews to choose from. First timers should consider a flight of tasters ($2 per

6 ounces). Alternatively, to really quench your thirst, pitchers are a fair $15. Be sure to sample the essential brews: The Ascender (a hazy, citrus hefeweizen), the flavorful Juicy IPA, refreshing Engel Landen pilsner and the house favorite, Zion Pale Ale. As for pub fare, the housemade pretzel sticks with lager-infused cheese ($3) are spectacular.

For a main dish, the Zion brew burger made with jalapeno jam, swiss and garlic aioli ($15) is a must. ❖ Zion Canyon Brew Pub 95 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale 435-772-0336 ZionBrewery.com

The perfect pub snack: homestyle pretzel sticks with lager-infused cheese

A flight of tasters at Zion Canyon Brew Pub is a great beginning

Who can resist beerbattered onion rings with barbecue ranch dip?

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ZION BREWERY

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It’s hard to top these toppings: Starbucks’ blueberry oatmeal

Drive-thru Vegetarian

Fuel your road trip with healthier fast-food options

BY AMANDA ROCK

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egans and vegetarians used to have limited options when road-tripping across the country. A typical order at a drive-thru would consist of a hamburger minus the beef patty (don’t laugh), French fries, veggie subs and bean burritos. Times, they are a-changing; you can now find tastier fastfood options at nearly every exit. You just need to know where to look.

Let’s hit the road!

36 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Breakfast Starbucks

Besides an abundance of packaged vegan snacks, Starbucks offers hearty oatmeal made with both rolled and steel-cut oats. The classic oatmeal comes with cute packets of colorful dried fruit, nuts and brown sugar.

Starbucks does not skimp on the toppings, and it’s fun to personalize your oatmeal experience. The blueberry oatmeal, for example, includes a crunchy nut and seed medley as well as agave syrup for drizzling.

Order a latte made with soy, almond or coconut milk to round out your breakfast.

Burger King

If you’re craving sweet and salty, find the nearest Burger King and order the vegan French toast sticks that can be dunked in maple syrup. It also comes with a side of crunchy hash browns.

Keep a caffeinated beverage ready for that inevitable (and totally worth it) sugar crash.

Einstein Bagels

A bagel slathered with hummus, peanut butter or avocado is a great way to start your day. Add some fresh veggies or fruit, and you’ve got a balanced breakfast. Now there’s one more tasty option for your bagel—Daiya Dairy Free Schmear! Made from potato starch and pea protein, this vegan option has a smooth creamy texture and authentic cream cheese flavor.

Burgers Carl’s Jr.

When Carl’s Jr. added Beyond Burger to its menu, I thought I had died and gone to heaven.

I’ve been craving a vegan fast-food hamburger for decades! Made without soy or gluten, the Beyond Burger has a whopping 20 grams of protein from peas. Take a bite and you’ll notice the burger is pink inside—that’s from the trace amounts of beets in the recipe. Both the flavor and texture are satisfying and very beef-like.

Skip the mayo and cheese, and you’ll have a formidable vegan fast-food burger.

Apollo Burger

When I was researching an article for a recent City Weekly’s dining guide, I discovered Apollo Burger made the best French fries in SLC. You can imagine how happy I was when this local burger chain added the Impossible Burger to its menu. The Impossible Burger is totally different from Beyond Burger. First of all, the protein comes from potatoes and soy.

The folks behind the Impossible Burger have also figured out how to make a plant-based heme (the essential molecule that gives meat its meaty flavor) with yeast fermentation. All scientific stuff aside, with that signature charbroil, this is one burger not to miss. And those French fries cannot be beat!

Beans

Taco Bell

If you haven’t tried the Crunchwrap made with black beans instead of beef, you’re in for a life-changing experience. The only fastfood restaurant with a menu certified by the American Vegetarian Association, Taco Bell offers the most vegetarian and vegan options.

It’s easy to customize your order, sub beans for beef and omit dairy products. The only limit is your imagination!

Del Taco

While Del Taco is just as customizable as Taco Bell, they have become a veg destination with the groundbreaking addition of Beyond Meat to their menu. Del Taco offers two tacos featuring the plant-based substitute for ground beef: the vegetarian Beyond Taco, topped with shredded cheese, and the vegan Beyond Avocado Taco. Flavored with ancho chili, onion, garlic, lime, oregano and cumin, the Beyond Meat works well in the crunchy tacos. You can also substitute Beyond Meat in any other menu item. Imagine the possibilities! ❖ Devour Utah • JULY 2019

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Gathering the Goods

Chef Jordan Miller forages for what’s in season

BY ELENI SALTAS

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hef Jordan Miller has been on the culinary road since he was 14. His first job was in an upscale restaurant in New York City, and he has since gained culinary experience in other kitchens in North Carolina, Pennsylvania, California, New Jersey and Delaware. He’s even spent time in Ecuador, where he attended culinary school and studied Spanish and creative writing at the University of San Francisco de Quito. Ecuador was where Miller first began foraging for food to create flavorful dishes. With every move he has made since, Chef Miller makes it a point to learn about ingredients that grow wild in his locale to incorporate into the menus of whatever kitchen he’s working in.

Thanks to his ski-loving wife, Miller has put down his roots in Utah for the past four years.

Currently, you can find Miller teaching cooking classes at Park City Culinary Institute as well as working at the new fine-dining restaurant at the Lodge at Blue Sky in Park City.

“This is a dream job for me,” Miller says of his new gig at the 3,500-acre mountain retreat with a worldclass dining experience. Not only does Miller bring his culinary talents to the restaurant itself, but he also prepares private feasts for guests on outdoor adventures like horseback riding and fly fishing. His patrons enjoy dishes that are locally sourced from the surrounding landscape.

When he’s not cooking for others, Miller can be found hiking with his wife and dog, most often in the Uinta Mountains, where he looks for greens, goji berries, nuts and sumac spice to use in his cooking.

Though he’s reluctant to give up the location of his prime foraging spots (and who could blame him?), Miller says that porcini mushrooms are some of the easiest wild produce to find in Utah. “Because of all the rain we had in Utah this year, anything that does grow here will grow in abundance, and porcinis are the gold standard in foraging,” Miller says, noting that they can be found not only in the wilds but in Pioneer Park, around the University of Utah and in the Cottonwood canyons.

Chef Miller also offers private cooking, catering, and personalized classes. Learn more at ChefJordanMiller.com.

Chef Jordan Miller: “Porcinis are the gold standard in foraging.”

PHOTO BY JOHN TAYLOR

38 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Devour This Recipe Jordan Miller’s Blue Spruce Tip Dessert

BY ELENI SALTAS

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or this issue of Devour, chef Jordan Miller provided two dessert recipes, one for ice cream and another for syrup made from blue spruce tips. Yes, those piney trees are edible! Not only that, but when the desserts are combined, they create an exciting flavor that Chef Miller describes as a “minty piney bomb of deliciousness.”

To harvest the spruce tips, simply pop the tips off the end and discard the casings. Be careful not to overharvest a tree, just pick a few here and there. Once you’ve gathered what you need, you are ready to create your blue spruce tip ice cream and syrup, enjoy!

Take care not to overharvest a tree when gathering spruce tips

Chef Jordan Miller’s Blue Spruce Tip Ice Cream Recipe Ingredients 1 ½ cups heavy cream ½ cup milk 1 cup fresh blue spruce tip buds 6 large egg yolks ½ sugar 1/8 teaspoon salt ½ cup spruce tip syrup

strainer and allow to cool in refrigerator overnight. Spin ice cream using your favorite method.

Process Over a double boiler, heat the cream, milk, sugar, salt, syrup and egg yolks, whisking constantly to avoid scrambling the eggs and sticking to the bottom of the bowl. When the mixture starts to steam and is hot to the touch, remove from heat and allow to cool. Then, add the spruce tips and puree with an immersion blender until mixture is thoroughly blended. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh

Process Bring sugar and water to a boil, then whisk until all sugar is completely dissolved. Once dissolved, turn off the heat and allow to cool. Once cooled for five minutes, add spruce tips to mixture and allow to cool to room temperature. I like to steep my syrup for 24 hours minimum. Once thoroughly infused, strain through cheese cloth and add fresh lemon juice. Store in refrigerator indefinitely. ❖

Blue Spruce Tip Syrup Recipe Ingredients 2 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cups fresh spruce tips 2 tablespoon lemon juice

Devour Utah • JULY 2019

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SUSAN BRIXON

Utah’s natural bounty can be turned into unique jams, jellies and syrups

If Jellies Are Your Jam

Summer is the time to strike out in search of native fruits

BY JAN STRIEFEL

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t should come as no surprise that Native Americans and early settlers made use of native berries and fruits. Many were dried and preserved for winter nourishment, others were enjoyed fresh from the plant and still others require some form of processing to make them palatable. Today, native plants that produce edible berries can be found in wildlands and urban places, and many of the plants are successfully used in the landscape as ornamentals.

Among the most useful and easily prepared berries are serviceberry, Oregon grape, elderberry and chokecherry. I have foraged berries in urban parks, park strips and residential landscapes, as well as in wild and natural places. Serviceberries can be used fresh from picking or cooked down, strained and used as juice. I like to crush them, put them through a food mill or sieve and get as much pulp as possible with the juice. They have a small soft seed that is palatable, but you will want to determine whether or not to strain them out.

Oregon grape, elderberry and chokecherry must be prepared to remove the seeds and any stems or other debris.

42 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Once the juice is prepared and combined with sweetener, the potential for experimenting with other flavorings such as spices and herbs is limited only by the imagination.

If you gather these berries in the wild, when they ripen will depend on where they are growing. The higher the elevation, the later they are likely to ripen. If they are located near a water source, the berries will be larger and juicer. Birds and other wildlife rely on them, so finding them at the right time and under the right conditions can be challenging. But, it’s a great excuse to roam the mountains and foothills to track down sources that you can return to regularly, or as previously mentioned, all can be grown in the home landscape in urban areas and enjoyed with less unpredictability.

The rule for foraging in urban areas where private land is suspected is to always ask permission. Not only have I never been refused, but I have met some interesting and delightful people. I always return with a gift jar of the final product as a thank you. However, if you come across an appealing berry and are not sure what it is, it is best to pass it by. If you plan to eat it, be sure you know what you are foraging.

PHOTO BY JAN STRIEFEL

The Berries Serviceberry

Amelanchier alnifolia or A. utahensis I consider this wonderful berry to be the “blueberry of the West.” It’s a lovely white flowering shrub in the spring with an abundance of blue/pink berries in early summer. The ripe berries are edible fresh from the plant or can be canned whole in a light syrup. The fresh or canned berries make great cobblers, pies, breads or any other inventive desert. Processed into jams, jellies or syrups, they are delicious in tarts, served over ice cream and pancakes, or stirred into yogurt.

Open everyday for breakfast & lunch!

Oregon Grape Mahonia repens or M. aquifolium This evergreen shrub with holly-like leaves produces yellow flowers in spring, and blue/grey berries in summer. It is an attractive plant in the landscape and offers an abundance of berries summer through fall. The berries need to be cooked and strained to produce a liquid, then made into jellies, jams, and syrups. I have foraged Oregon grape in both manicured landscapes and natural parks.

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Elderberry Sambucus caerulea or sp.

This medium to large shrub is common in the canyons where it produces white flower clusters in summer followed by dark, shinny purple berry clusters in summer and fall. There are several cultivars available that vary in leaf color and size.

While I have only used the berries in jellies, jams and syrups, the flowers alone have long been used for elder syrups and flavoring wine.

Chokecherry Prunus virginiana This fairly large shrub can also be trained into a small tree. The fruit is very astringent, the seed is large in comparison to the flesh, and the raw taste is indeed “choking.” But when combined with sweetner, it has a unique, earthy taste that is delicious in jams, jellies and syrup. I have also used the juice to make a highly coveted barbecue sauce that is marvelous with chicken or pork.

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Berry Recipes Many jellies and jams are typically prepared with commercial pectin. I have found that the flavor of the wild berries is intensified if they are simply cooked down to the jelling point without pectin. It takes a bit longer and results may vary, but regardless of whether you end up with jam, jelly or syrup, it will all be delicious. If you prefer the relative predictability of results by using pectin, just follow a good tart fruit juice recipe with regard to the amount of sugar and cooking time.

The recipes that follow are favorites and the ratio of juice to sugar has worked well for me. How much cooking time is needed to reach the jelling point will depend on juice consistency, cooking elevation and how much natural pectin is contained in the fruit. But, do not be intimidated. Experiment and enjoy these native, natural and very satisfying gifts of the Western landscape.

Serviceberry jam or jelly (without pectin) Yield: about 4-5 half pints Ingredients 6 ½ cups cleaned berries 3 cups sugar

Process Combine berries and sugar in a large sauce pot. Bring slowly to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Then boil rapidly and cook to the jelling point, about 20-30 minutes. As the mixture thickens, stir to prevent sticking. Remove from the heat and skim off the foam if necessary. I ladle the product into hot jars (kept in a 200-degree oven), seal them with canning lids and rings, and turn them upside down for a few minutes. Alternatively, you can process them in a water bath for 15 minutes.

Chokecherry barbecue sauce Yield: 2-3 half pints

Ingredients 2 ½ cups chokecherry juice with some pulp 1 medium onion, finely chopped (yellow or red) 1 jalapeño pepper, finely chopped 1 green pepper, finely chopped ½ cup honey or maple syrup 1 teaspoon prepared mustard, honey mustard or grainy mustard 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or cider vinegar ½ teaspoon salt 25 peppercorns 2 whole cloves 5 juniper berries (optional) Process Sauté onion and peppers about 15 minutes until lightly browned.

Crush peppercorns, cloves and juniper berries (if using), place in a cheesecloth bag and tie. Pour chokecherry juice into heavy pan with other ingredients. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, then remove cheesecloth bag. At this point, mixture can be pureed until smooth or left with small chunks, depending on preference. Refrigerate for up to 2 months, or process in half pints in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.

The recipe can be doubled, and your favorite spices and flavors can be incorporated. You could also use the juice from elderberry, serviceberry, or Oregon grape with delicious results. ❖ 44 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

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Devour Utah • JULY 2019

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Spirit Guide

Tavern Tour

Watering holes along Utah’s blue highways reveal local character and history

BY DARBY DOYLE

46 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

Shooting Star Saloon in Huntsville

AUSTEN DIAMOND

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lashback to the summer of 1993 at a roadside bar in Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. After a week of backpacking along the wilderness coast, my boyfriend (now husband) and I were hoping to enjoy a cold beer, grab a burger and hit a real restroom before we finished the drive back home. A couple of grimy 20-somethings wearing flannel and hiking boots, if you’d transported us to Seattle, we’d be indistinguishable from half of the city. However, to the patrons of this bar—with a handwritten sign on the door reading “No Caulks Allowed” to remind loggers to take off their woodfloor-destroying spiked boots and a stuffed toy owl pinned to a dart board—we embodied the social and economic threats facing similar small communities at the peak of the clash between environmentalists’ protest of old growth forest logging and the livelihood of families with few other options for employment.

After several minutes of stony silence from the barkeep and outright glares from a few patrons, we turned tail and drove about an hour until we found a McDonald’s near the interstate junction.

Closer to our cabin home outside Greenwater, our regular one-room-tavern-slash-bait-shop haunt also sported a “No Caulks” sign on the door, but the management had long ago taken the attitude that all money was green, even if it came from a couple of suspected tree huggers who tipped well.

In my subsequent years of family hunting trips and fieldwork all over the rural West as an archaeologist, this scenario of sussing out a tavern’s tolerance temperature was frequently tested. One bar’s welcome to have some extra bucks from tourists in the till is another spot’s suspicion that outsiders are coming in to ogle the locals like a provincial petting zoo. To be fair, it seems that

wariness has only been amplified in our era of Facebook check-ins and all-about-the-’gram photo ops.

For many local joints (and, hell, even some of my favorite bars in SLC), they’re far less interested in a five-star Yelp review from some stranger who scowled at the channel the TV was turned to than in keeping their regular customers happy and comfortable.

So, the moral of this convoluted story? Having some empathy and selfawareness as an outside interloper goes a long way, no matter where you go. In the end, I’d rather support an independent local business with my dollars than spend it at an interstate-adjacent chain restaurant when given the chance, and I am ever optimistic that those proprietors feel the same. Here’s hoping that featuring these favorite local watering holes in Devour doesn’t get me banned for life for showcasing them as the gems that they are. The nearest McDonald’s restroom would be a long, long way away. And please keep in mind that many of these businesses are cash-only and 21+ establishments.

FRANKIE FARMER

Mim’s Bar & Grill in Corrine

Mim’s Bar & Grill

Now celebrating 150 years as “The Gentile City,” Corrine’s known for being a rough-and-tumble town settled by railroad laborers and land speculators. At its peak, the “Burg on the Bear” boasted two dance halls, a cigar factory and mercantile, a newspaper, several banks and 28 saloons. Harkening back to those more rebellious times, Mim’s Bar & Grill is a seven-days-a-week bastion for cold brews and burgers, and it also sports a full bar license. Frequented by local farmers and duck hunters coming off of the Bear River, the parking lot is often packed with motorcycles, especially on Sundays.

4020 N. Highway 13, Corrine 435-744-2206

Shooting Star Saloon

Legend has it that the Shooting Star— built originally as a mercantile in the 1850s and continually run as a tavern since 1879—is the oldest bar in Utah.

Through numerous owners and even surviving as a “soda parlor” through Prohibition, the narrow spot is famous for its loaded burgers, local draft beer by the pint or pitcher and the ceiling fluttering with thousands of patronsigned dollar bills.

7350 E. 200 South, Huntsville 801-745-2002

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Spirit Guide Mike’s Tavern in Cedar City

DAVID LATT

GARY NELSON

The Snag Bar and Grill in Dutch John

COURTNEY HARTFORD

Dinosaur Brew Haus in Vernal

BROCK CHARD

Ray’s Tavern in Green River

The Snag Bar & Grill

“It’s still going strong,” says one of my favorite fly-fishing guides, Brad Lovejoy, of this floating hangout frequented by local anglers, guides and boaters. Docked on Flaming Gorge Lake near Dutch John, The Snag features tasty nosh and a full bar to go along with gorgeous views from the open-air deck. Check their website or call ahead for days of operation, which change by season.

Cedar Springs Marina 2675 N. Cedar Springs Road Dutch John 435-889-3795 CedarSpringsMarina.com

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Dinosaur Brew Haus

This is a super casual spot with kid- and dog-friendly patio seating available, weather permitting. On any given day you’ll find dusty hikers, retirees taking a break from their cross-country RV journey, or plenty of camoand ATV-loaded trailers in the back parking lot during hunting season. Brews by the can from Vernal Brewing Co. down the street, peanuts on all the tables and daily burger specials make it a Main Street favorite.

550 E. Main St., Vernal 435-781-0717

Ray’s Tavern

Fresh off rafting the Green River? Heading back from an epic mountain biking trip in Moab? Everyone from exhausted cowboys looking for a respite after roundup to sandal-clad river guides seems to gravitate to Ray’s for great food and drinks and service with a smile. It says right on the storefront “The Place for Everyone,” and in the many times our family has stopped in, that’s always been the case.

25 S. Broadway, Green River 435-564-3511 RaysTavern.com

Mike’s Tavern

If you get a hankering for live music, drag shows or karaoke in southern Utah (and who doesn’t?), locals will point you to Mike’s Tavern. Advertised as “Cedar City’s Local Friendly Neighborhood Bar” with the “cheapest drinks in Cedar City,” it’s a gathering spot for recreationalists and locals from Enterprise to Escalante.

90 W. Hoover Ave., Cedar City 425-867-5990 MikesTavernCedarCity.com

COURTESY PHOTO

Discover A New Level of Taste

Moroccan Tajines, Kebabs, Shawarma

Belly Dancing Shows Daily Specials Vegan Options Gluten Free Options Dine In/ Take Out Catering Reservations Recommended

Burr Trail Grill’s homemade pie in Boulder, Utah

Burr Trail Grill

COURTESY PHOTO

60 E. 800 S. SLC | 801.355.1515 | www.pashaslc.com

Although the Burr Trail Grill’s neighbor, Hell’s Backbone Grill, gets plenty of welldeserved recognition, there’s also a lot to love at this laidback spot to the south.

Grab a slice of homemade pie and a pitcher of Squatters draft beer and settle in for an afternoon of post-Escalante adventure relaxation. The diverse menu also has full dinner service, lots of vegan and gluten-free options, Blue Copper Roasters coffee, and a small but mighty beer and wine list. Open seasonally, call ahead to confirm hours of operation. ❖ 14 UT-12, Boulder 435-335-7511

Family Owned

Best BBQ West of the Mississippi!

• Butcher Shop offering the World’s Highest Beef Grade • King’s Treats beef and pork bones for the four-legged kids • Free drinks and bread with BBQ purchase!

435-709-5BBQ benjisbbqshack.com 3245 S State Street SLC

August 16-18, 2019 in Historic Downtown Helper, Utah

“Oh the

places we’ll go”

Live Music Food Vendors Photography Oil / Watercolor Paintings Sculpture Youth Art Yard Ceramics Jewelry Wood Working Custom Car Show Mining Museum HelperArtsFestival.com Devour Utah • JULY 2019

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Last Bite

Sweet sensations: Experience the sweet heat of O-Town’s pineapple jalapeño jam

O-Town Kitchen’s founder Isaac Farley

O-Town Kitchen’s jams, jellies and syrups are worth the journey to Logan and Ogden farmers markets

Transformation Station

O-Town preserves give you the warm fuzzies STORY AND PHOTOS BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ

T

he Marshall White Community Center in Ogden is O-Town Kitchen’s new headquarters.

That’s where you’ll find Isaac Farley mixing up his signature recipe for Still Untamed, a sweet and spicy pineapplejalapeño jam with a nod to Ogden’s namesake. Jam is at the heart of O-Town, along with syrups and jellies, which are huge hits at local farmers’ markets from Logan to Provo.

Farley, founder of O-Town Kitchen, found himself homeless several times in his young life. After graduating and working steadily in a good job, Farley came to the “there’s got to be more to life than this” moment—and decided to do something gutsy about it.

“I was doing OK,” he said, “but wanted to do more and to give back to my community. With my experience volunteering at soup kitchens and food pantries, I knew I wanted to give back with food.”

He got his idea to help homeless people, especially those with families (some 45% of all homeless), from the Big Idea Program, an inventive business program at New York’s Impact! Design for Social Change. He understood the way most families end 50 Devour Utah • JULY 2019

up homeless is by one or both parents losing employment. “I’ve been there,” he said, “so I understand the reality of homelessness…and it’s not the guy on the street corner asking you for some change.”

Farley wanted to create something delicious while helping homeless moms gain transitional employment. His organization got its humble start in the YCC Family Crisis Center’s community shelter kitchen five years ago.

O-Town acquires ingredients from local sources that consider it unsellable or close to expiration. “There is so much food waste,” Farley says.“Over $161 billion U.S. annually in food (nearly 3040%) gets thrown out. That’s edible food I want to capture from going into the landfills.”

The food is transformed into preserves by employees hired as part of an employment program for people facing emergency situations. When they’re not in the kitchen or selling at farmers markets, he accepts offers for picking fruit from trees during summer months. Staff earns income while creating something new.

“We like to create more nontraditional jams like our mango

habanero and tomatillo lime, which make great gifts,” Farley says.

When asked how many employees he has, Farley notes, “We typically employ three to four at a time and have a 50% success rate of getting homeless mothers into transitionaltype employment. It feels rewarding when they gain confidence and go on to do other things and are even more successful,” adding that some have gone on to nursing school and found great jobs. “We’re teaching them valuable skills, along with pride in creating a final product that is delicious.”

O-Town Kitchen’s jams, jellies and syrups are available online and at the Ogden and Logan Farmer’s Markets as well as Harmons and Smith’s grocery stores.

The organization is always looking for more vendors and partnerships with any interested organizations, including gift shops, cafes or caterers. Farley is available to conduct workshops and speak at events about the power of social entrepreneurship. ❖ O-Town Kitchen OTownKitchen.com

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