VOL. 5 NO. 6 • JUNE 2019 • BARBECUE FREE COPY
PIT STOPS THAT SATISFY P. 14
the BBQ issue
THE VEGFRIENDLY GRILL, P. 34
Cajun Barbecue Shrimp, p. 38 Devour Utah • June 2019 1
2 Devour Utah • June 2019
Devour Utah • June 2019 3
contents
The Barbecue Issue
10 Truckin’
Food trucks that expand your BBQ IQ BY MIKA LEE AND CAIT LEE
14 Pit Stops
A dozen ways to satisfy your ’cue craving BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
28 Playing With Fire
The Livingston bros. tell how to ace a BBQ competition BY BRIAN FRYER
32 The Spread Table-top grilling at Ombu Grill BY HEATHER L. KING
34 The Green Grill A veg-friendly barbecue BY AMANDA ROCK
4 Devour Utah • June 2019
10
14 36 Things We Love Barbecue ‘gotta haves’ BY AIMEE L. COOK
38 Recipe: Cajun Barbecue Shrimp All the flavor of the grill (minus the grill) BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
40 Plate It
11Hauz jerk chicken wings BY MAYA SILVER
42 Spirit Guide
Smokin’ sips to pair with your summer cookouts BY DARBY DOYLE
50 Last Bite
Hay-box cooking creates a fireless feast BY JOHN RASMUSON
42
NOW OPEN
IN FARMINGTON 895 EAST PROMONTORY (385) 988-3727
VOTED BEST ITALIAN! ANTICA SICILIA
COTTONWOOD
SICILIA MIA
DOWNTOWN
2020 East 3300 South Millcreek (385) 202-7236
2578 Bengal Blvd. Cottonwood Heights (801) 666-6918
4536 S Highland Drive Salt Lake City (801) 274-0223
10 E Broadway Salt Lake City (385) 420-4114
SICILIAMIAUTAH.COM Devour Utah • June 2019 5
CONTRIBUTORS STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreader Contributors
JERRE WROBLE CLAIRE MCARTHUR LANCE GUDMUNDSEN CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, BRIAN FRYER, ANNA KASER, HEATHER L. KING, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, JOHN RASMUSON, AMANDA ROCK, MAYA SILVER
Claire McArthur spends most of her day thinking about food—growing it, cooking it, eating it, discovering it and writing about it. If she’s not out in the mountains looking for edible plants with her dog and camera, she’s probably in the kitchen making jam or pickling something. Find her on Instagram at @ claire__mcarthur
PRODUCTION Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, SEAN HAIR, CHELSEA NEIDER
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
MARKETING
After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. She was a finalist in the SPJ ‘Top of the Rockies’ competition for her work in the 2018 Devour BBQ issue. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.
Director of Events & Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH
CIRCULATION
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
SALES Magazine Advertising Director Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF KYLE KENNEDY ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KATIE GOSS, MIEKA SAWATZKI
John Rasmuson spends his days trying to put the right words in the right order. He wrote a column for City Weekly for 12 years that won awards every now and then when he got the words just right.
Cover photo of Kaiser’s Texas Bar-B-Q platter by Sarah Arnoff Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Copyright 2019. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • June 2019
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
A U of U graduate with a degree in English, Anna Kaser grew up loving everything about Utah. When she’s not hiking or camping, you can find Anna sampling local food and beer or working on events for City Weekly, Devour Utah and Vamoose Utah.
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From the Editor
Summer’s Sizzle W
hen I was a young adult, my dad took a job in California and, in so doing, become an epicurean of sorts. On a visit, I remember finding a chunk of tough beef in the fridge, soaking in a soy sauce marinade with finely chopped garlic, ginger and green onions. It soaked through the night, and the next day, we packed it up with a couple of loaves of fresh sourdough bread and a few ears of corn still in their husks and headed to the beach. My dad made sure the hibachi’s coals were hot and ready when he dropped the unhusked ears of corn onto them. Then, he placed that rectangle of meat—called a London broil—onto the grill. It seared quickly, and as he turned it, I could see a nice char. It smelled fantastic. People who were walking along the beach were turning their heads toward the aromas. After the meat was grilled, he let it rest, then sliced it across the grain into thin rare slices that we placed atop of sourdough bread slices, warm juices dripping into the bread. So tender and delicious! The corn also charred in its husks, and we peeled the ears, buttered the kernels and gnawed on them while standing up, butter dripping onto the sand. All pleasantly set off with sips of a cool California red from the ice chest that we had tasted and purchased en route to the beach. So, what delicious memories are popping into your mind right now? If we were at a cookout, we could swap ’cue tales over a summer beverage, like those Darby Doyle writes about in “Smokin’ Sips.” We could weigh in on the ’cue food trucks that sisters Mika and Cait Lee mentioned in their Fab Four feature or discuss Brian Fryer’s interview with the Livingston brothers about how to win at competitive barbecue. We could ask Rebecca Ory Hernandez to join us and bring her spicy Cajun shrimp and Amanda Rock could show up with her veggie skewers and vegan potato salad. John Rasmuson would be in charge of dessert, with a rice pudding he made “hay-box” style that you can read about in the Last Bite. Such is summer—getting together with friends and family, remembering and wishing for things, cooking and eating under the beams of the sun or the moon while celebrating being alive. But if you can’t afford the time away for such life-affirming activity, then do the next best thing. Order some delicious barbecue dishes prepared by the legendary pitmasters mentioned in this month’s Devour Dozen. Their painstaking efforts will likely surpass anything the average outdoor cook could pull off plus give us ideas on how to up our game. Welcome to summer—and the feel-good issue of the year (aren’t they all, though?). ❖
—Jerre Wroble Corrections: In our “Scholars of Sustenance” feature in our April 2018 “Nerd” issue, we overstated the scope of Utah State University professor Luis Bastarrachea’s research. While he is interested in novel physical methods of food preservation such as using ultrasound and ultraviolet (UV) light, they are not the focus of his current research, which is antimicrobial materials for different applications. In our print edition of the May 2019 “Chef” issue, we incorrectly used a photo of Harmons chef Aaron Ballard for that of SLC Eatery’s chef Logen Crew. Also, in the same issue, in the feature Cookbooks Chefs Love, Table X’s chef Nick Fahs’ last name was misspelled due to an editing error. Our apologies to all.
8 Devour Utah • June 2019
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THE FAB FOUR
Food trucks that expand your BBQ IQ
T he Sa lt Pineap y p le’s sweet garlic c hic and ka lua pig ken with ma ca r o n i s al a d, ses a m e rice and pin eapple slice
Words & photos by
By Mika Lee & Cait Lee
10 Devour Utah • June 2019
ummer is here, and you know what that means: festivals, music and food trucks. Specifically, food trucks serving up some of Utah’s most mouthwatering barbecue. With flavors, seasonings and styles ranging from Jamaica to Hawaii and across the U.S., local food trucks allow you to experiment with new types of ’cue along with enjoying your favorite cuts, sauces and sides. We’ve pulled together a Fab Four of BBQ food trucks sure to entice your taste buds. To find out when and where these purveyors of sauce and spice will roll into your ’hood or near your place of work, simply check their social media, websites and/or their schedule at TheFoodTruckLeague.com.
Pitmaster Aaron Quayle
Pulled brisket sandwich on potato bun with baked beans, mac ’n’ cheese and housemade peppermint-cocoa cookie dough [Picture description:] Pulled
brisket sandwich on a potato bun with a side of loaded baked beans, mac n cheese and their housemade peppermint cocoa cookie dough.
Smokin’ Star BBQ
Pitmaster Aaron Quayle takes great pride in his ketofriendly BBQ that incorporates flavors of several American BBQ styles, including Texas-style brisket, Memphis-style ribs and Carolina pulled pork, some of which are smoked up to 14 hours. This North Carolina native keeps his Eastern-style Carolina sauce on hand and serves it upon request (psst, that means it’s a secret-menu item). The cherry on top? The rotating menu of edible cookie dough. SmokinStarBBQ.com
Salty Pineapple’s Shantel Longfellow serves up traditional Hawaiian dishes “with a spin.”
The Salty Pineapple
Daysha Filipe and Shantel Longfellow’s traditional Hawaiian fare recently garnered a $10,000 tip in the tip jar on the Food Network’s Big Food Truck Tip. What started as a Pacific Islander family recipe, Pop’s sweet garlic chicken plate, is now a local favorite. Pineapple coleslaw and pineapple jalapeño BBQ sauce atop kalua pig are other unique menu items. Look for new desserts this summer. Savor the aloha spirit! The-SaltyPineapple.com Devour Utah • June 2019 11
80 years of tradition
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South finecandies.com
12 Devour Utah • June 2019
The Barbecue Issue Jamaica’s Kitchen’s Donovan Thompson
Jamaican jerk chicken with a side of red beans and rice, coleslaw and fried plantain
Jamaica’s Kitchen
Bringing the good vibes with good food is what owner and Jamaican native Donovan Thompson does best. His is Utah’s first Jamaican food truck, serving up mouthwatering jerk chicken, tender oxtail stew and savory goat curry. The secret
Smokin’ Roadside Grill
Rob and Cassandra Pierce are the dynamic duo turning their test kitchen dreams into a roadside reality. Originally from the foodtruck capital of Portland, Ore.—now based in Provo—their unique Northwest Style of barbecue is catching fire along the Wasatch Front. “If it needs sauce, I didn’t cook it right,” says Chef Rob. His dry-rub brisket, pork and chicken require up to 20 hours of preparation, giving their brisket a leaner but juicy texture. The loaded mac ’n’ cheese was our favorite pick and an item that can be added on to your next catered event. Next stop? A restaurant for loyal fans. SmokinRoadsideGrill.com ❖
of his success? His grandma’s sweet-and-spicy jerk sauce that only he has the recipe for. Some menu items require up to a week of preparation and use imported spices, so expect authentic flavors not found elsewhere in town. Gluten free and vegetarian options are also available. JamaicasKitchenSLC.com
Dry-rub brisket sandwich with tri-colored baked beans and coleslaw
Rob and Cassandra Pierce at Smokin’ Roadside Grill Devour Utah • June 2019 13
The Barbecue Issue
PIT
565 FI M A S R E HOU S SAM E W I T H A N C UR RY BRIS KE T
STOPS Hungry for ’cue? Here are a dozen ways to satisfy that craving BY DEVOUR STAFF
14 Devour Utah • June 2019
AIMEE L. COOK
S
ummer is a time for smoke to get in your eyes ... and nostrils and hair as you peek under the lid of your grill to see what’s going on with your meats and veggies. As heat and smoke infuse them with flavor, tenderness and juiciness, it can’t help but bring a smile to your face. But if you find that firing up the smoker or grill is a hammock too far (we know, you have a life to live, lawns to mow and 5Ks to run), then by all means, ask Siri to direct you to one of the local BBQ joints that follow. Greater SLC now boasts a respectable roster of meticulous pitmasters, classically trained chefs and second-career barbecue artists who know a thing or two about sauces, spice and fire. Our writers at Devour Utah have ’cued you up for some great summer eats.
THAI FUSION BBQ
What started as an accidental combination of smoked meats and flavors of southeast Asia has become a mainstay at 565 Firehouse. Owner Tong Chinnapha began by using a curry recipe of his uncle’s— Yuth Kayonsomrouj, owner of Thai Orchard restaurant in Cottonwood Heights. “We were testing foods,” he says, when they assembled the family at the table, and began serving both Thai food and barbecue. “I had my brisket on a bed of rice,” Chinnapha says, “and my uncle poured his curry on top, and we really liked it.” Chinnapha had no barbecue experience when he started. “We didn’t plan on creating such a unique dish but people seem to love it, too. We tend to sell out every day.” Through trial and error, Chinnapha learned the art of smoking meats, using hardwoods such as pecan, oak and cherry to achieve the desired flavors. He serves brisket, ribs, pulled pork and chicken. Any protein can be added to the massaman or yellow curry. Try the popular massaman curry with brisket, a well-balanced flavor combination of sweet and smoky, filled with fork-tender chunks of brisket, carrots and potatoes, then sprinkled with roasted peanuts for a nice crunch. (Aimee L. Cook) 565 Firehouse 565 E. 2100 South, SLC 801-268-3374 565Firehouse.com
The Barbecue Issue
FRIDAYS ARE FOR BURNT ENDS
Fridays are “burnt ends” days at Pat’s BBQ and judging by the crowds it attracts, owner Pat Barber’s burnt ends are almost a religious experience. “I was looking for that lost American art form of barbecue, and it just didn’t exist in Salt Lake at the time,” Barber says. “It was very pervasive in other parts of the country and after learning, cooking and tasting a lot of barbecue, I decided this state really needed to have a place that served competition-style barbecue.” After 17 years in the business, Barber continues to expand his culinary offerings (stay tuned for his farm-to-table dishes this summer utilizing his organic garden in the back). But the exceptional things remain the same, like the way he prepares his brisket and renders those candylike burnt ends. The brisket is cooked all night long, only seasoned with Barber’s signature dry rub, then cubed and served. New to the menu, Barber has taken his burnt ends to a new level, offering them in tacos. (Aimee L. Cook)
PAT ’S SP R BB Q E AD
JOHN TAYLOR
Pat’s BBQ 155 W. Commonwealth Ave. South Salt Lake 801-484-5963 PatsBBQ.com
Devour Utah • June 2019 15
FINE JEWERLY PIERCING MASSAGE REIKI CARD READING
801.810.9247
245 E. 300 S. Salt Lake City
20 1 7
16 Devour Utah • June 2019
The Barbecue Issue
COURTESY PHOTO
MO ’ BE GRI T TAH S C HI L L E D CK E N
ISLAND MELTING POT
Brothers Kimo and Kalani Mack are the minds behind Mo’Bettahs, slang for “more better,” which describes the food they ate growing on the Hawaiian island of Oahu. Knowing it to be more better, they introduced Utah to their fast-casual service of Hawaiian BBQ in 2008, and now have 10 locations in Utah. “I sold my house, quit my job, moved my family to Utah (Kalani had already been in Utah for a decade) and opened Mo’Bettahs shortly after I moved here,” Kimo says. “It was time to get some things
done in my life that I thought we could accomplish.” Even though 2008 marked the height of the recession, their Bountiful location developed a good following. “We knew that the food we were selling sells really well in Hawaii,” Kimo says, “and I made the assumption people would like it here—we just needed to expose them to it.” Mo’Bettahs makes food that is served beachside in Hawaii: teriyaki chicken, steak, katsu chicken, rice and macaroni salad.
The family recipes have been passed down from mothers and aunts. “They were very good cooks, at least in our minds,” says Kalani. “We got pretty fat as kids. We wanted to serve food that was Hawaiian style, taking the different influences and cultures that live in Hawaii now, that came about due to immigrants from Japan, China and the Philippines working on plantations.” (Aimee L. Cook) Mo’Bettahs Hawaiian Style Food Multiple locations MoBettahs.com Devour Utah • June 2019 17
7am-1am / 7 Days A Week • 3231 S. 9 0 0 E. • 801-466-3273
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We have moved to the newly restored to glory Historic Eagle Building.
Italian Cuisine 404 South W Temple ´ Salt Lake City, Utah 801-364-8833 ´ www.caffemolise.com 18 Devour Utah • June 2019
The Barbecue Issue KAISER’S TEXAS BAR-B-Q’S SMOKED MEATS
SARAH ARNOFF
JOE MORLEY’S SMOKED BRISKET
BBQ BY THE POUND
Gregg Chamberlain grew up in Boerne, Texas, raising cows, sheep and pigs for the table. Growing up in a small town of 1,000 residents with a German influence tends to stay with you, as is the case with Chamberlain. Traditional Texas barbecue takes center stage at Kaiser’s, aptly named for the aforementioned German influence, and folks have been clamoring for his smoked meats since 2006. “I use oak or mesquite wood, salt, pepper and smoke,” Chamberlain says. “I personally picked out the sauce we serve and the mac ’n’ cheese is my recipe. Everything else we just put together what we have.” Chickens are spatchcocked and smoked for five hours. And in keeping with true Texas BBQ establishments, meats can be purchased by the pound to serve at get-togethers. Combo plates allow diners to mix and match between ribs, pulled pork, chicken, brisket and sausage. On Fridays, Chamberlain smokes up prime rib, which usually sells out, but if there is still some around on Saturday, Chamberlain turns it into a tasty, hearty sandwich. You’ll want to grab your seat at the picnic table early. (Aimee L. Cook) Kaiser’s Texas Bar-B-Q & General Store 962 S. 300 West, SLC 801-355-0499 SaltLakeBbq.com
COURTESY PHOTO
SARAH ARNOFF
Margaret Nakagiri
SARAH ARNOFF
Owner Gregg Chamberlain
SMOKING SINCE 1985
Joe Morley’s BBQ opened in Midvale, where Morley was born and raised, in 1985. Morley worked in a Church’s Chicken restaurant prior to opening his own place and traveled to their headquarters in Texas where he caught the bug for BBQ. In the early years, most patrons had never heard of brisket, but after giving customers a proper introduction, it remains one of the most popular items on the menu. Meats are smoked for up to 14 hours, and only cherry wood is used. A housemade barbecue sauce is added after the smoking process is complete so as not to disguise the natural smoky flavors of the meat. “All of our meats are served with the traditional Texas-style barbecue sauce. We don’t rely too heavily on rubs,” Brent Morley, son and co-owner, says, noting they have not changed their recipes since they opened. “We add some things to the menu, here and there,” he says, “but we have been lucky to have a core set of winners.” “Sugarback” babyback ribs, spare ribs, chopped pork (otherwise known as pulled pork), chicken and turkey are other meat options on the menu. Be sure to try Joe’s baked beans; the sweetness of the beans are a great enhancement for any smoked meat choice. (Aimee L. Cook) Joe Morley’s BBQ 100 W. Center St. (7720 South), Midvale 801-255-8928 JoeMorleys.com Devour Utah • June 2019 19
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The Barbecue Issue
FIREWOOD GRILLS ITS STEAKS OVER AN OPEN FLAME
COURTESY PHOTO
COURTESY PHOTOS
WALL A S I G N BY S ATUR E DIS H ES
GRILLING THE PERFECT STEAK
RUB, SMOKE AND WRAP THAT MEAT
Firewood 306 Main St., Park City 435-252-9900 FirewoodOnMain.com
Wallabys Smokehouse Multiple locations WallabysSmokehouse.com
According to chef John Murcko from Firewood restaurant, there are three key factors when grilling proteins: quality of ingredients, the technique and the equipment. Murcko says he only cooks over an open flame in his restaurant, and the result is an enhanced flavor. “If you don’t have wood-fired equipment, work with charcoal,” Murcko says. “Charcoal is a great substitute, and they have high-end charcoals that are made from hardwoods that have great flavor.” Murcko recommends using natural papers or kindling to start your fire. This ensures you won’t have the taste of fuel in your food. Light the grill three hours prior to cooking, and do not cook directly over the flame or charcoal since it could create a bitter flavor in your food. Best results will come from cooking over a glowing red coal bed. This will give a nice sear to the meat, with an outer bark that seals in flavors and juices. If natural gas or propane grills are your equipment of choice, it is important to get it very hot, with the lid closed before grilling. “It is crucial to season your grill beforehand,” Murcko says. That way, “the meat will not stick and you won’t get that burnoff taste.” He suggests brushing them down with grapeseed oil and seasoning with kosher salt. (Aimee L. Cook)
Wallabys Smokehouse co-owners Jeff McFadden and Gary Hanson bring their affection for “down under” food to the Beehive State by fusing classic barbecue options with Aussie-inspired fare. Melt-in-your-mouth beef brisket and hand-pulled pork are the most popular signature dishes. “We rub, smoke and wrap the meat. When it’s done, it’s done—it’s hard to say how long it will take,” McFadden says, describing the prep process that can last as long as 16 hours. “We apply a simple rub to the brisket to let the flavor of the beef shine through and to allow diners to customize the meat with our housemade sauces.” Wallabys’ cooks hand peel potatoes throughout the day to create “smashers,” a delectably creamy and cheesetopped mashed potato side that is also Aussie inspired. Smashers can be loaded with bacon, sour cream and green onions. “No gravy is necessary,” says McFadden. The Melbourne Burger is topped with Aussie favorites—a fried egg, grilled pineapple, cheese and tomato with housemade sweet and spicy sauce. The popularity of berries in Australia is reflected in the raspberry barbecue sauce and berry cobbler. Australian-imported Bundaberg sodas are a flavorful, thirst-quenching accompaniment. (Carolyn Campbell)
Devour Utah • June 2019 21
THE PATIO IS OPEN! TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2018
BOSS 2016
Best Odgen Restaurant
2015 - 2018
2012 - 2017
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
N F O O D H E AV E N A M R E G Delicatessen & Restaura German
3176 E. 6200 S. • Cottonwood Heights, UT 801.944.0505 • banditsbbqutah.com 22 Devour Utah • June 2019
20 W. 200 S. • (801) 355-3891 • Catering available Open Mon-Wed: 9am-6pm Thu-Sat: 9am-9pm siegfriedsdelicatessen.com
nt
The Barbecue Issue
A TASTE OF CAJUN SPICE
SugarHouse Barbeque Co. 880 E. 2100 South, SLC 801-463-4800 SugarHouseBBQ.com
JOHN TAYLOR
The SugarHouse Barbeque Co. is a regional institution, renowned for its Memphis-style ribs and homemade sauces. Memphisstyle involves applying a dry rub to the meat prior to smoking to amplify its flavor instead of overpowering it with sauce. When asked what’s the best dish to show off their style, the staff emphatically names the pork ribs. The dry rub not only tenderizes the meat, but the slow smoking that follows infuses it with flavor—so much so, you’d happily eat the ribs bare. That is, of course, until you try one of the signature SugarHouse Barbeque sauces.
“The owner will take the dryrub spice blend to his grave,” manager Frank Torina jokes. “We’ve been here since 1996, back when there was no one else around. We’re still doing it the way it should be done.” SE R HO U SugarHouse Barbeque’s S U G A E ’ S R IB S E QU technique adds a level of B A R B HI C K E N A ND C subtlety and nuance to a classic favorite, and their sauces work with the flavors instead of drowning them. If the food alone isn’t enough to convince you, then the friendly, knowledgable staff will make you a lifelong fan. (Caitlin Hawker)
FIVE STAR
Inside a white churchBBQ’S BRISKET turned-restaurant in Orem, AND RIBS PLATE Five Star BBQ & Catering Co. is cranking out tender, flavorful meat using the restaurant founder’s secret family rubs from Louisiana. BBQ fanatic Jared Terry opened Five Star in 2009 after years of experimenting and fine-tuning his recipes with a Cajun flair. Five years later, Kevin Santiago, restaurateur and owner of Greenlight Hospitality, tasted Terry’s ’cue—and he wanted in. “He tried the BBQ and loved it, and he offered to buy the place,” says Sarah Jensen, catering coordinator at Five Star. At the time, Jensen says, the restaurant was facing closure due to financial difficulties. But Santiago and partners Ty Mattingly and Lee Johnson were “able to save it and keep the recipes and the BBQ going.” Thankfully, Five Star continues to smoke its 12-hour brisket (using a unique combination of cherry and apple woods), Cajun sausage, pork, turkey, chicken and beloved honey-and-brown-sugar finished ribs. They’ve since opened a second location in Provo.
CLAIRE MCARTHUR
THEREIN LIES THE (DRY) RUB
The plates and sandwiches are served alongside a roster of sides that keeps customers coming back just as much as the meat itself: gooey mac ’n’ cheese, fluffy cornbread, cornflakecrusted and deep-fried funeral potato balls, garlic toast, spiced cream corn and housemade potato chips dusted in the signature rub, to name a few. “We’re very picky about everything,” adds Jensen. “We don’t want to serve anything that’s substandard. We take great care with our food and great care with our employees.” (Claire McArthur) Five Star BBQ & Catering Co. Multiple locations 5StarBBQCompany.com Devour Utah • June 2019 23
24 Devour Utah • June 2019
The Barbecue Issue
H SM OLY OK E APP B E T I BQ ZER S
ANNA KASER
GLENN DIXON
SMOKIN’ BONES BARBECUE USES PRIME CUTS OF MEAT
START WITH A FRICKLE
Not to toot my own horn, but I’m a bit of a fried pickle connoisseur. Fried pickles chips? Had ’em. Battered rather than breaded? Tried it. I’m also a pickle snob, fried or not, so naturally, when I walked into Holy Smoke BBQ and saw a long list of fried items, with one of them being a fried pickle—or “frickle”—I quickly ordered a basket. Holy Smoke’s fried pickles definitely didn’t disappoint. Just the right amount of crunch and no sliding out of the breaded case—perfection. If pickles aren’t your style, try Holy Smoke’s other appetizers, such as hush puppies (ask for the tartar sauce to dip them in), fried okra and Heidi’s jalapeño hot spots. Jeff Ray, owner for 13 years, even has a hard time choosing between sides. “These are all kind of like my children,” he says. “I love them all.” Follow these treats with one of their signature sandwiches, such as the tasty Christmas brisket or tri-tip. And for the real Utah touch, Holy Smoke includes a small side of green or red Jell-O with each order. (Anna Kaser) Holy Smoke BBQ & Grill 855 N. Heritage Park Blvd., Layton 801-614-5011 HSBBQLayton.com
PERFECTING THE RIB
Ribs are the bread and butter of barbecue—the classic item. They must be done right to earn praise at a restaurant. Smokin’ Bones, I’m happy to say, is one of those places that has, indeed, perfected the rib. Not only is their dry rub a well-crafted flavor made inhouse, they also make sure to purchase only the prime cuts of meat. As far as the sauce, which is served on the side, you can choose your own adventure. Jessica Kearns, one of the four owners, says, “Our [original] sauce is a nice, sweet sauce with a little bit of a kick.” If the original doesn’t win you over, you can choose from the spicy, mustard or Carolina sauces. Now in its sixth year, Smokin’ Bones began out of a simple love of barbecuing. Jessica’s husband, Kile Kearns, and her parents, Greg and Carol Wood, decided to open shop after Kile’s barbecue stirred the passion in the family. “My husband has always been into barbecuing and is the master of spices,” Jessica says. To everyone’s surprise, the company slowly grew. “If you had asked me eight years ago about opening up a restaurant,” Jessica says, “I never would have thought that would have been an option. We all just jumped in.” For sides that pair nicely with your ribs, you can’t go wrong with the sweet cornbread or mac ’n’ cheese. (Anna Kaser) Smokin’ Bones Barbecue 364 S. 200 West, Bountiful 801-298-1687 SmokinBonesBBQUT.com Devour Utah • June 2019 25
7am-1am / 7 Days A Week • 3231 S. 9 0 0 E. • 801-466-3273
Greenhouse Effect Treat Yourself to locally crafted coffee and sweet or savory crepes
Serving Dinner & Sunday Brunch
321 S Main Street | 801-363-8888 londonbelleslc.com 26 Devour Utah • June 2019
ANNA KASER
CHARLOTTEROSE’S PEACH COBBLER
PEACHY KEEN
Straight from the Carolinas, Charlotte-Rose’s cuisine is unapologetically Southern and traditional. Thanks to the special touches that owner Trae Eller has infused into the menu and the decor, any Carolinian will feel right at home. All their sides are made from scratch, using local ingredients as often as possible (they do, however, have Cheerwine cherry-flavored soda shipped in from North Carolina to complete the ambience). The pork sandwich with slaw and a side of mac ’n’ cheese is one of the most popular meals, according to general manager Rebecca Riedler. I could barely wait to order the famous peach cobbler for dessert. Made from scratch, the cobbler is caramelized and slightly crunchy on the outside while remaining soft and sweet on the inside. Of course, you have to order it à la mode for the complete effect. The cobbler’s traditional style gives it a homemade, straight-forward taste. “We even use local peaches from Brigham City while they are in season,” Riedler says. It’s obvious that much time and thought have been put into this dessert. It’s the perfect way to round out a savory meal. (Anna Kaser) ❖ Charlotte-Rose’s Carolina BBQ 571 W. 2600 South, Bountiful 801-571-5300 CRCBBQUT.com
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Smith’s Shopping Center 7117 S. Redwood Road West Jordan, UT Open Daily from 11:30am to 8:30pm Open Sundays at 12:30pm Devour Utah • June 2019 27
The Barbecue Issue
PLAYING WITH FIRE R&R Barbeque founders share secrets about how to win on the barbecue circuit BY BRIAN FRYER
PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
Roger Livingston, left, and twin brother, Rod
B
y now, you know the name. With eight R&R Barbeque eateries stretching from Provo to Farmington, it’s apparent that Rod and Roger Livingston, the twin brothers who founded the company, know a thing or two about what makes great barbecue. Not only did they come from a family of butchers and backyard grillers and smokers, but before they settled down to open their first restaurant in 2013, the pair had been tested by the fire of competitive barbecue. After winning nine Grand Champion titles at competitions around the country and placing in the American Royal in Kansas City, the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational in Kentucky and the Sam’s Club National Barbeque Tour, you might say they know what it takes to win. Barbecue competitions were once relegated to the summer months, mostly in the southern United States, but have since wafted like hickory smoke across the country and even into Europe, drawing huge, hungry crowds year-round. Competitors test their skills to win the favor of professional judges (yes, it’s a real job), while popular TV shows celebrate pitmasters and the drama of food competition. The Kansas City Barbeque Society, the body that sanctions competitions and sets training standards for judges in the United States, lists around 500 competitions in the U.S. and Europe each year. The KCBS has about 20,000 members serving as judges, cooks, cooking teams and competition organizers. To compete for prize money that can reach into the tens of thousands, competitors must chalk up wins at sanctioned events. For those backyard grillmasters who, after spending hours tending cuts of meat over coals to the praise of
28 Devour Utah • June 2019
grateful friends and family, have thought, “I bet I could win a competition,” the Brothers Livingston are here to set you straight by offering advice for all would-be pitmasters.
GET READY TO INVEST
As former competitive surfers from Huntington Beach, Calif., the Livingston siblings landed in Utah after Rod moved here for college in 1989. His brother soon followed, and in the mid-’90s, they started a mortgage company. “And, for a while, both of us worked for a company that had us traveling a lot in the South, so we went to plenty of barbecue places when we were on the road,” Rod says. After using common commercial smokers from homeimprovement stores (“They are terrible. They don’t hold any heat,” Rod says), a friend in the restaurant business loaned Rod a professional smoker to play around with. “When I brought it home, my wife said, ‘Oh, great. Now you’re going to want to buy one of your own.’” And, of course, he did, and so did Roger. “I got one called a Mule Tough that is made in St. Louis,” Roger says. “And Rod got one from Texas by East Texas Smokers who custom-builds them.”
UNDER- AND OVERPREPARED
Armed with their new equipment, the brothers entered an amateur competition at Snowbird in the summer of 2003. “They almost didn’t let us enter. They thought we were pros because of the nice smokers we had, but we didn’t really know much,” Rod says. “We had too much of everything, we had back-up rubs,
“You have to remember you are not cooking for your friends or neighbors—you are cooking for judges, and they are looking for certain things.” —Rod Livingston
garlic powder—everything—and no system for what we were doing. We were there in shorts and flip-flops, and it started raining. It was pathetic. But, by the time we quit competitions, we had it down to one box of stuff we were taking with us.” With no system for who was in charge of what, the brothers found themselves bickering and wasting time and effort. Some of the veteran barbecue competitors were willing to offer the pair tips and advice, even at larger competitions. “There are always people there who will help out the new guys,” Rod says. “Until you start beating them,” Roger adds. In addition to purchasing to a decent smoker, competitors should be ready to buy top-quality meats. Barbecue competitions judge four different meats: chicken, pork, ribs and brisket. “By the time you pay your entry fees and buy your meats, you could be in $700 to $800, and that is without what you may have put into buying a smoker,” Roger says. There is also a time commitment. “One of the biggest surprises as we got into competitions was how much work and time it is. You may have a day preparing, a day driving to the contest, then two days cooking—then you’ve got to head home,” Roger said.
KNOW YOUR AUDIENCE
Competition cooking is different from cooking for friends or even at a restaurant. “You have to remember,” Rod says, “you are not cooking for your friends or neighbors—you are cooking for judges, and they are looking for certain things.”
The brothers note that it is important to pay attention to what dishes are winning and that comes mostly from experience. Rod says he also learned about cooking for judges after taking a class from Myron Mixon of the Jack’s Old South team and host of the BBQ Pitmasters TV show. “You want to make things a little sweeter than you might if you are cooking at home. Judges have a lot to taste, and they are only going to take a few small bites of anything, so you really have to pack the flavor in there,” Roger says.
IS IT DONE YET?
The brothers came back again and again to something that can only be learned through hard experience and that is knowing when a particular meat is “done.” “When we started, we didn’t know when done was ‘done,’” Rod says. “Knowing when something you’re cooking is where it should be and how you want it just takes time.” It’s vital to stick with what you know, regardless of what others are doing, Roger says. “Once you find out what works, you have to stay consistent. If you go changing recipes and times, it is just going to throw you off,” he adds. While winning recognition and prize money is great, the brothers say competitions are also a fun way to travel and meet new people. Rod and Roger share their competition barbecue lessons regularly in classes at their restaurant locations. Look for the class schedule on the R&R website. ❖ RandRBBQ.com Devour Utah • June 2019 29
30 Devour Utah • June 2019
Devour Utah • June 2019 31
The Barbecue Issue
JOEL U
Ombu Grill provides plentiful condiments
the
Spread Ombu Grill
T
he design of Ombu Grill might seem unusual at first, with personal grills built directly into each table and state-of-the-art ventilation systems snaking from the ceiling. Yet once diners have embraced the overall experience, it’s hard to resist the charms of Korean barbecue. A vast menu of raw proteins and vegetables await as you try your hand at tabletop grilling. Choose from 33 items at lunchtime for $14.99 or the entire menu for $19.99 at dinner. As ingredients are being readied for cooking, the restaurant design’s genius is revealed as servers lower the fans above the tables down to suck up the barbecue smoke as the grills heat up. At Ombu Grill, the Korean barbecue fun really begins with the meat and seafood choices—most of which are offered in plain or marinated varieties. Chicken, shrimp, calamari, pork belly and steak are all excellent options. The bulgogi (steak marinated in soy sauce, garlic and sesame oil) is a well-rounded option for both flavor and ease of preparation. The tender, thinly sliced meat sizzles to the desired temperature quickly and an impressive amount of smoke-tinged flavors can be coaxed into the beef. 32 Devour Utah • June 2019
BY HEATHER L. KING
Encase the grilled proteins in fresh lettuce leaves to counter their richness and pair everything up with any of the ready-to-grill vegetables. Try the bundles of firm, slender enoki mushrooms wrapped with bacon strips. The longer the bacon and mushrooms cook, the more flavor is imparted. Enjoy each bite with a selection of traditional banchan or side dishes—typically featuring kimchi and a pickled vegetable—that balance the cooked offerings nicely. And everything at Ombu can be enhanced with a variety of dipping sauces, including spicy gochujang, hoisin, lemon and house sauce. In short, this Korean barbecue spot on State Street has transformed the cook-your-own-meal concept into an allyou-can-eat barbecue adventure for Utah diners. ❖ Ombu Grill 1438 S. State, SLC 801-484-4848 UtahOmbuGrill.com
JERRE WROBLE
Platters of uncooked meats, seafood and veggies arrive at your table
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Devour Utah • June 2019 33
The Green Scene
GREEN GRILL Throw a veg-friendly barbecue
BY AMANDA ROCK
SUSAN HICKBY
grilled vegetable skewers are always a hit
B
ringing people together to enjoy grilled food and a few beers in your backyard is a rite of summer. As a gracious host, you want to make everyone feel welcome, and that includes vegans and vegetarians. It may seem daunting, at first, to prepare plant-based proteins and sides, but I promise, feeding your meatless friends is a cinch. From my years of grilling along with input from savvy food friends on Twitter, we’ve gathered a passel of tips for a green grill, ensuring you’ll have your summer barbecue in the bag! 34 Devour Utah • june 2019
THE GRILL
Your easiest task will be adding veggie burgers, sausages and hot dogs to the menu. It’s likely that your neighborhood grocery store carries Boca Burger, Amy’s Kitchen, Gardenburger and probably a few other brands. Not all faux meat is vegan, so be sure to read the label. Sharing the grill is a bit trickier. Grill the meatless food first, or use aluminum foil to avoid cross-contamination, as suggested by one of my favorite vegan bloggers, Jackie Sobon (@ VeganYackAttack). Or maybe you could skip the traditional barbecue fare and throw a DIY pizza party instead. Shelley (@educated_guest) says to provide pizza dough to your guests along with a huge selection of toppings. Each person builds the pizza of their dreams right on the grill, and it only takes about five minutes to cook.
THE SIDES
There’s no shortage of barbecue sides to serve both your meat-eating and veggieloving guests—good luck deciding! Swap the regular mayo for vegan mayo in your favorite potato salad recipe—few will notice the difference. Or, whip up a pasta salad loaded with marinated artichoke hearts, mushrooms, olives and fresh vegetables from the garden, and douse it with Italian dressing. Food writer and host of the Meatless podcast Alicia Kennedy (@ aliciakennedy) suggests trying your hand at Martha Stewart’s French-style potato salad made without mayo. Michael Henry Lawler (@hilltopauthor) serves baked beans, chili, and vegan mac ’n’ cheese. Corn on the cob and grilled vegetable skewers are other popular suggestions.
COURTESY PHOTO
DESSERT
“Grilling fruit like pineapple or watermelon is fun and easy for dessert,” says Stephanie Bogdanich (@ veganLazySmurf ), vegan blogger and coauthor of The Taco Cleanse. Utahns love ambrosia, and making it for vegans is easy. Look for Dandies vegan marshmallows and Trader Joe’s (or Reddi-Wip’s) dairy-free whipped toppings. You could also pick up a few quarts of sorbet or vegan ice cream (most grocery stores now have numerous options, including Halo Top vegan ice cream) for a easy, refreshing end to any meal.
READ THE LABELS
Reading ingredient labels might be the most challenging part of hosting vegans, especially if you’re not used to looking for sneaky dairy and egg products. Don’t be afraid to ask for help or suggestions. Your guests will appreciate your thoughtfulness, and they might even offer to bring favorite dishes to share. If you’re serving veggie burgers and dogs, make sure the buns are vegan. Ingredients to avoid include whey, milk powder, egg, and l-cystine (a dough conditioner usually made from feathers). Most of the inexpensive buns in your grocery store are just fine, and a lot of them proudly wear a big “vegan” label right on the package. Aside from mayo, most condiments such as ketchup, mustard and relish are vegan. Grocery stores usually stock at least one kind of vegan mayonnaise, such as Vegenaise, Hellman’s Vegan Mayo or Just Mayo. Instead of butter, use Earth Balance or one of the many plant-based margarine products on the shelf. ❖ Devour Utah • june 2019 35
Love Things We
BY AIMEE L. COOK
1
Traeger Wood-Fired Grills
With the invention of its woodpellet grill 32 years ago, Traeger changed the way people approached backyard barbecuing. Traeger is in the process of “reinventing” its original grill and has launched a new series that includes the following features: • WiFIRE technology allows smartphone users to connect to their grill and control temperature, monitor food temperatures and set timers. • D2 direct drive is a variable speed fan and auger that allows a wider temperature range while also getting the grill hotter faster. • Meat searing/pellet sensing: The new series has the ability to sear meats as well
36 Devour Utah • june 2019
as notify users of the amount of pellets remaining in the hopper, helping them avoid the fate of running out of fuel and ruining those long overnight cooks. Traeger Grills use 100% all-natural hardwood pellets as fuel. The versatility of the grill’s design allows you to grill, smoke, bake, roast and braise. “There is no brand in the world that inspires the level of passion as Traeger,” Jeremy Andrus, Traeger Grills CEO, says. “When you share food with people you care about, especially food that you have thoughtfully prepared yourself, you have this warm, bonding and communal experience.” Prices vary TraegerGrills.com
2
Miss Essie’s Southern BBQ sauces
Using a 100-year-old family recipe, former University of Utah football player Marcus Jones embarked on a food-industry quest in 2003 to “bring the South to your mouth.” Today, Miss Essie’s is a fullservice catering, food processing/ manufacturing business that sells precooked smoked meats and distributes four organic barbecue sauces: original, honey, cider vinegar and honey mustard. Purchase online and at Harmons, 16-ounce bottle, $5.99 MissEssiesBBQ.com
3
Big Daddy Hill’s Java Joe’s Cow Rub
This espresso barbecue rub, created by Lee Hill, not only imparts a smoky, chocolate flavor to enhance your steaks, it also acts as a tenderizer thanks to its natural acidic tones. Mix with ground beef for burgers or add to your chili. Never bitter, it just adds a hint of spice. Purchase online and at Fresh Market, 7-ounce bottle, $7.99 BigDaddyHills.com
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Devour Utah • june 2019 37
Devour This | Recipe
These shrimp may look (and taste) grilled, but they’re cooked in a skillet.
Cajun Barbecue Shrimp RECIPE AND PHOTOS BY REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ
I
love sharing recipes and stories like this one. Barbecue shrimp is one of my absolute favorite summer dishes, taking me back to hot summer days and nights in South Louisiana. The best part about this recipe is that there’s no grill to prepare, smoker to stoke nor secret barbecue sauce involved. The history of this dish goes back to the mid-1950s at Pascal’s Manale, a New Orleans restaurant. The dish was created somewhat by accident when a regular customer asked chef Pascal Radosta to duplicate a dish he couldn’t stop thinking about since returning from a trip to Chicago. The customer could only recall it was made with shrimp, butter and pepper. Pascal created something that wasn’t quite the same but was, in fact, even better! The beauty of this dish is that it’s fast and simple. It involves cooking huge, whole shrimp at high heat in a rich bath of butter and black pepper. The essential ingredient is large, heads-on shrimp, with the fat in the heads providing most of the flavor. If you can’t find heads-on shrimp in Utah, don’t fret—tails-on shrimp work just fine. Due to the richness of this dish, you won’t eat it often— though you’ll probably want to! Don’t forget the French bread to soak up the extra sauce. It makes for a perfect summer supper with the rest of that bottle of wine and a big green salad.
38 Devour Utah • june 2019
INGREDIENTS 3 pounds (16-20 count) large Gulf shrimp, with heads or 2 pounds shrimp with tails on ½ cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1-2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 3-4 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup ground black pepper 2 teaspoons paprika 3 dashes hot sauce (optional) 3 sticks (24 tablespoons) salted butter, softened and cut into tablespoon-size pieces ¼ cup fresh chives, chopped PROCESS • Rinse the shrimp and drain. Place them in a large skillet over medium heat. Add wine, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, garlic and bring to a light boil. Cook, shaking the skillet, until the shrimp just turn pink. • Sprinkle black pepper over the shrimp. Be bold, and know it’s impossible to use too much pepper at this stage! Continue cooking for 2 minutes, sprinkling in paprika and hot sauce. • Lower the heat to simmer. Add 3 tablespoons of butter at a time to the skillet, swirling the butter over the heat as it melts. When the butter melts, keep adding 3 pieces, continuing until all the butter is used. Keep gently swirling shrimp in the skillet until the sauce turns orange. • When all the butter is incorporated, sprinkle chives on top, give one last stir and place the shrimp and lots of the sauce in bowls. Serve with hot French bread for sopping up the sauce. • Remember to provide plenty of napkins and perhaps bibs. It’s messy! Serves 4-6 ❖
Use either heads-on or tails-on Gulf shrimp for this recipe.
After shrimp turn pink, coat with a layer of pepper.
Add butter a tablespoon at a time.
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The Barbecue Issue
11Hauz proprietor Sheron Grant prepares a chutney for her spicy jerk chicken wings.
Plate it
Taste buds will soar with an order of 11Hauz’s jerk chicken wings
T
he story of 11Hauz’s jerk chicken wings begins with the warm flavor of the allspice berry—the star of jerk seasoning. 11Hauz chef/ owner Sheron Grant orders allspice berries whole, grinds them fresh and adds crushed Scotch bonnet pepper along with other seasonings. She then rubs this spice mix all over the wings and lets the flavors wed overnight. Meanwhile, Grant makes a chutney to go with the wings. This is no ordinary chutney, and it makes these already unique wings next-level. Finely chopped pineapple and mango cook down to a jammy consistency with organic brown sugar and a secret blend of spices.
40 Devour Utah • june 2019
STORY AND PHOTOS BY MAYA SILVER
What follows are three cooking processes. First, the wings are baked for 20 minutes, then go into the deep fryer for about four minutes to crisp the skin. The final step is a quick sauté in a skillet with the mango-pineapple chutney just to coat the wings and warm the chutney. Buffalo and ranch have got nothing on these juicy jerk wings with the tropical, tangy chutney. Grant admits that it did take her a few tries to get the flavors right, adding in garlic, upping the jerk seasoning flavor and dialing back the Scotch bonnet to make the wings palatable to all guests—kids included (though, if you ask for more heat, she’ll spice it up).
The roots of this recipe—and all the recipes at the family-run 11Hauz—trace back to Grant’s Grandma Florence, who walked 11 miles to and from work everyday (hence, the name). This is one of those dishes that you could recreate at home, but it’s complex and timeintensive enough that you would be better off digging in at 11Hauz’s colorful café in Newpark Town Center, trusting Grant to finesse wings so good, they’re one in a dozen. ❖ 11Hauz 1241 Center Dr., Park City 435-200-8972 11Hauz.com
JerK Chicken Wings with MangoPineapple Chutney
Devour Utah • june 2019 41
Spirit Guide
Smokin’ Sips DRINKS (AND MORE) TO PAIR WITH YOUR SUMMER COOKOUTS STORY & PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE
Booze and barbecue go hand in hand, whether you’re flipping burgers on the grill clutching a koozie-cocooned brew or sitting back, sipping whiskey and shooting the breeze with friends for hours while the smoker does its lip-smacking meaty magic. For this edition of Spirit Guide, we celebrate the complexity of flames and smoke as an ingredient while allowing the method and activity to reign supreme.
Grilled Pineapple-Mint Smash
Smashes are a fruit-forward and herbaceous drink within the category of juleps, served over lots of crushed or pebble ice. Very simply, it’s a suit-yourself kind of cocktail: Pick a fresh fruit, spirit base, herbs and lots of ice, and top with a little something fizzy, like soda. Simple to make and easy to batch for a crowd, smashes are best when made with juicy fruit and fresh herbs in season (mint is typical, but give rosemary or basil a try). Even better, throwing whatever fruit you’ve picked up at the Farmer’s Market on the grill further caramelizes the fruit’s natural sugars, releases juices and adds a nice smoky surprise element to this refreshing drink.
42 Devour Utah • june 2019
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INGREDIENTS
¼ cup chopped grilled pineapple* Handful of fresh mint 1 ½ ounces white rum ¼ ounce dry curacao 2-3 dashes habanero-lime bitters Splash of lemon soda (such as San Pellegrino limonata)
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To prepare one drink: Drop pineapple and a few mint leaves into a julep cup or double Old Fashioned glass and crush with a muddler. Add rum and curacao. Pack the glass with crushed or pebble ice to the top, gently stir to redistribute the crushed fruit evenly and add a splash of lemon soda to fill the glass. Garnish with mint sprig and grilled pineapple spear. *Grill pineapple spears over medium flames, turning to get even grill marks on all sides. Remove from grill, and set aside to cool before using.
Devour Utah • june 2019 43
Spirit Guide
Spicy Mezcal Paloma
Distinctively smoky mezcal can be legally made anywhere in Mexico; though, in practice, it’s concentrated in eight of Mexico’s 31 states, and almost the entire category is produced in and around Oaxaca. With the craft of mezcal-making stretching back hundreds of years, artisanal producers still use recipes developed by their ancestors over many generations. The smoky profile comes from the agave hearts (piñas) being roasted in wood-fired earthen pits for many days before being mashed into pulp by stone wheels, fermented and distilled. One of Mexico’s classic tequila-grapefruit highballs, the Paloma, is an almost-perfect summer sipper with a great sweet-tart balance. Here, it gets a smoky kick from a generous dose of mezcal for the agave spirit and spice via jalapeño. The cocktail is delightful when served in a traditional salt-rimmed clay cantarito cup. 44 Devour Utah • june 2019
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ ounces mezcal ½ ounce tequila blanco 3 ounces fresh grapefruit juice 1 teaspoon agave nectar 2-3 dashes grapefruit bitters 2-3 rounds (to taste) fresh jalapeño
To prepare one drink: To a cocktail shaker, add jalapeño slices, agave and bitters; crush with a muddler. Add ice, mezcal, tequila and grapefruit juice; shake well. Rub the rim of a clay cantarito cup or double Old Fashioned glass with the cut side of a grapefruit, and dip it in coarse-grained salt to coat. Strain the drink into the cup over fresh ice. Garnish with grapefruit zest and a jalapeño wheel.
Devour Utah • june 2019 45
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46 Devour Utah • june 2019
Spirit Guide
Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em
Like wine or whiskey, a great cigar can have phenomenal depth and complexity of flavor. Unlike the cringe-inducing and admittedly subpar stogies I smoked in my 20s, selecting a cigar from the walk-in humidor at Beehive Cigars (1564 S. 300 West, 801-566-5178, BeehiveCigars.com) evokes the sultry drama of Havana nights and breezy Caribbean beaches. I asked cigar lover and Wine Academy of Utah sommelier Jim Santangelo (WineAcademyOfUtah.com) and Beehive Cigars’ shop manager Brandon Oveson to recommend some great smokes to enjoy while tending the grill or settling back with a drink on the porch come sundown. One choice that Santangelo, Oveson and I all agree upon is the phenomenal bang for the buck you get from Beehive’s Maduro Torpedo house cigar. A long Dominican figurado
shaped like a (you guessed it) torpedo, it’s wrapped with dark Maduro leaf. “This is a mellow smoke cigar with notes of dark chocolate, coffee, espresso and a sweet finish,” Santangelo says of this standout. “Pair up with a quality rye or bourbon whiskey or local IPA to really kick it up a notch.” Oveson recommends a medium-strength yet complex cigar like La Galera Habano Churchill to accompany a rye Old Fashioned, saying, “It has notes of oak and cedar, subtle spice and a creamy sweetness throughout.” I also like this cigar with slightly bitter Campari cocktails like a Negroni or Boulevardier. For a very savory, full-bodied cigar, Santangelo recommends the La Mission 1959 from L’Atelier to go with the spice of a barrel-strength rye or stout beer. Oveson also thinks this smoke is great with a bold Cabernet. “It’s very savory,” he says. “It’s like smoking a steak.”
La Galera Habano Churchill cigar paired with a rye Old Fashioned
Devour Utah • june 2019 47
Spirit Guide
Utah barrel-aged brews
While much of the flavor of aged spirits like whiskey comes from the grain recipe and type of yeast used for fermentation, a huge part of what you taste and see in the final product comes from the fire-charred wood-barrel interior. Since American rye and bourbon barrels can only be used once, they’re repurposed to age Irish whiskey, rum, malt whiskeys and, yes, beer. To get the lowdown on Utah barrel-aged brews, I asked Tim Haran, founder of Utah Beer News (UtahBeerNews.com) to suggest a couple of smoky additions to the backyard barbecue ice bin. Harran notes that barrel-aged projects are often limited release or seasonal offerings, but there are usually similar brews in the works: “The breweries are solid, so I wouldn’t have trouble recommending whatever else they come up with down the road.” 48 Devour Utah • june 2019
A spicy character
“It’s a perfect fire-pit sipper,” Haran says of SaltFire’s Barrel-Aged Baltic Porter. With a limited five-barrel release, it’s the first of many barrel-aged/conditioned beers in SaltFire’s growing lineup. “It pours a dark brown with sweet aromas of dried fruits and a touch of black licorice,” Haran says. “Flavors I picked up include molasses and dark fruits with a nice rye spice character.” Just in time for summer sipping, SaltFire added an 8% ABV India Pale Ale aged in gin (yes, gin!) barrels from their neighbor on West Temple, Beehive Distilling. Also try SaltFire’s Barrel-Aged Imperial Dirty Chai Stout, a 9.3% ABV spiced coffee stout aged in bourbon barrels.
SaltFire Brewing
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“2 Row Brewing is my go-to for hopforward beers. But don’t sleep on the Midvale brewery when it comes to dark, delectable and complex barrel-aged offerings,” Haran says. Coming in at a hefty 11.5% ABV, Divine Lunacy is a bourbonbarreled Belgian quadruple rested in barrel for about nine months. Haran picks up rich caramel and toffee aromas, dark fruit flavors and a touch of vanilla in the profile. Also try 2 Row’s oak-aged Dark Alley Imperial Stout (at a whopping 15% ABV) with coffee and dark chocolate notes. ❖
2 Row Brewing
2RowBrewing.com
801-363-0565 | 580 E 300 S w w w. t he a r t f l o ra l . c o m Devour Utah • june 2019 49
Last Bite
DANIEL RICHARDSON
All day in the hay, and stew will come your way
Fireless Feast
Forget the sous vide: Hay-box cooking worked for Grandma BY JOHN RASMUSON
M
y grandmother devoted every Monday to laundry. It was an all-day job for a family of seven in the early 1900s. Bed sheets were boiled, dried on a clothesline and pressed with an iron heated on a wood stove. With no time for cooking dinner, she often relied on a hay box for a Monday meal. Her hay box was made of wood, stuffed with hay, and topped with a quilted cover. It was essentially a slow-cooker without a heat source. She would put all the ingredients for stew into a cast-iron pot, boil for 10 minutes, cover and fit in a nest of hay. When the laundry was done, the stew was ready to eat. My grandmother, a Danish immigrant, died before I was born. I know her indirectly through black-and-white photos, letters she wrote and my mother’s oft-repeated stories. One such story described rice pudding, Denmark’s traditional Christmas Eve dessert. By custom, a whole almond was mixed into the pot of pudding. Whoever got the almond in his or her bowl received a gift. For sentimental reasons, I decided to tap my Danish heritage and attempt rice pudding in a hay box. It proved to be an exercise in expediency when I opted to use an ice chest instead of making a plywood box. I filled the chest with hay and used an L.L. Bean down vest for an insulating cover. An Internet search dredged up advice from “fireless cooking” enthusiasts. Their blogs asserted hay boxes were foolproof. No
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chance of burning the food or overcooking it. They offered two caveats: Double the cooking time and reduce liquids by 25%. Rice pudding recipes are mostly the same—rice, milk and sugar spiked with either cinnamon, vanilla or cardamom. Into a cast iron pot, then, I dumped a half-cup Arborio rice, a halfcup sugar, and 4 ½ cups of whole milk. I boiled the mixture for five minutes and then tucked the covered pot into the hay and topped it with the puffy vest. I waited for two hours before lifting the lid for a sample. The rice needed more cooking. I reheated the pot and put it back into the hay. Two hours later, I tested it again. The rice was perfectly cooked, but it was soupy. I drained off the excess milk, stirred in two teaspoons of vanilla and put in the refrigerator. As much as I enjoyed the toothsome outcome, cooking rice pudding in a hay box fell short of the resonance I had hoped for. At no point in the process did I feel I was channeling my Danish grandmother, and I don’t rule out that my expectations were colored by a “good old days” bias. No doubt my grandmother would have happily used a washing machine and a crockpot since only survivalists and Amish elders would privilege 19th-century technology. We can agree that the good old days weren’t as good as we think they were. Nevertheless, the truth is that neither hay box nor crockpot makes a difference: Rice pudding, sprinkled with cinnamon, is always delicious. ❖
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52 Devour Utah • june 2019