Thessaloniki
Your free best-of guide
Where to go, what to see, where to hang out, what to eat, where to drink, what to buy, where to stay. The EuroPride 2024 host city welcomes you!
in a nutshell
This summer, a noteworthy collaboration transforms our evening entertainment.
great classic bars of the past. For the summer months, Le Cercle is moving to Hyatt Regency’s secret garden, to set up an ambiance that will transport you to the time of the roaring ‘20s.
EN Internationally acclaimed for its quality and laid-backluxury,HyattRegencyThessaloniki welcomes Le Cercle de Salonique, an established bar and venue that brings back the ethos of the
The two teams behind Hyatt Regency Thessaloniki and Le Cercle de Salonique were inspired by world-famous, celebrated hotel bars that made lifestyle history. The venue, which is also available to hire for small-scale events, is open every day from 20:00, both for the hotel’s guests and the wider public (large groups are kindly asked to book ahead).
08EURO PRIDE24 IN A NUTSHELL
«Persevere, Progress, Prosper»: this is the slogan of EuroPride 2024 in Thessaloniki. It reflects three important elements, three pillars on which our movement is built.
PRIDE24 NUTSHELL
The concept of progress is associated with the present, a very dynamic one that is constantly in motion.
EN Perseverance, because our community is constantly facing discrimination and exclusion and, yet, it remains strong and thriving. It’s a positive and optimistic concept without ignoring the hard realities and the reason why Pride exists. Perseverance also alludes to the extraordinary difficult condition of Covid-19 pandemic, that forced the cancellation of EuroPride 2020 and, yet, our reorganisation and persistence to have it again. We didn’t give up. It also alludes to the continuously challenging conditions of the Russian aggression in Ukraine and the dire conditions it creates for all Europeans in the upcoming period. The concept of perseverance relates to the past, with everything we have faced, gone through and left behind.
Progress, because our fight is a constructive step forward. We build a better and more inclusive society: it’s the natural path that all societies will follow as time goes by. It is also associated with progressiveness, as opposed to conservatism.
Prosperity, because our goal is the well-being of everyone. It is a fact that equality is a precondition for a prosperous society. Once we persevere and progress, we prosper in life, both as individuals and collectively. Prosperity can also allude to the overcoming of the financial crisis that Greece went through in the past decade, as well as –most importantly– what is at stake in Europe over the last developments: Europe will be in a constant pursue of prosperity, threatened by war and the subsequent refugee fleeing, climate crisis etc. Prosperity is associated with the future we dream of and long to.
Despite the cancellation of EuroPride 2020 in Thessaloniki, our community has persisted through this challenge to bring you EuroPride from 21st to 29th June 2024. With a fitting slogan of “Persevere, Progress,
Prosper”, we aim to highlight the ongoing challenges facing the LGBTI community in Europe, while celebrating queer identity through diverse events, such as film screenings, international conferences, art exhibitions, museum exhibitions focusing on our history, culture and more. We’re determined to bring you a EuroPride that is political while maintaining safety, fun and inclusivity amongst all.
Set in the picturesque city of Thessaloniki, events throughout the week and the two adjacent weekends will be held in a variety of venues such as the cultural space of the city port and the international fairgrounds, with festivities culminating in the EuroPride parade on the final day (June 29th). This parade will take place in the historical city centre surrounding the White Tower, which will be illuminated in rainbow colours as a symbol of our community’s strength and integration into wider society.
photo
12THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?
THESSALONIKI CITY IT?)
All the way up or all the way down? The truth is,
Thessaloniki has shown each of these faces from time to time – an open, inclusive, and progressive side, but also a more introverted face, which is against accepting any deviation from the norm. Which version prevails? We spoke with eight people who live in Thessaloniki – four Greeks and four from abroad. Their points of view, expected or unexpected, are extremely interesting...
Thouli Misirloglou
artistic
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY
(OR IS IT?)
EN In my eyes, Thessaloniki has always been a... half-open city. With a door or perhaps a window that blows open with a strong gust of wind and abruptly closes again in an instant. It is a city (like, perhaps, many others) where one moment, fifteen-year-olds bully people who look different and then a progressive part of the city
coordinates to condemn the fifteen-year-olds’ behavior. Previously, a so-called “disrespectful” poster provokes heaps of backlash, and then the city’s honor is rescued by a French woman who loves the city, works in it, and expresses the dignity of all. Violence is often
hidden, but it is here. The illusion of openness, which is assisted by the sea and the scenery of the waterfront, is shattered “backstage”. I hope we can rediscover and reclaim our human gaze, even if slowly and painfully. But this is a long and difficult task.
Roshni Kothanour
ACT graduate, employee
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR
IS IT?)
EN In Hindi, her name means “the light”. But her school years in the small town of Western Greece where she was born and raised were often filled with darkness. The color of her skin caused her to experience first-hand what it means to not accept otherness. Looking for a place to study, she made an informed choice in Thessaloniki because she’d heard, she says, that in the North, people are warmer, more welcoming, and there
is a stronger element of multiculturalism. “I adapted to Thessaloniki very easily, as I spoke the language since I was a child. Thessaloniki is a big city. Where I was born, I was the only foreigner and the only girl of color in my school. There was some racism... It didn’t bother me as much in elementary school, but the situation deteriorated in secondary school. When I came here, I
realized that people are more open, more willing to talk to me. This was not a common occurrence before...” she explains. However, she admits that “here too there are some challenges that the city will have to face so it can improve as a community. There are some stereotypical
issues; for example, people sometimes stare or come up and ask you ‘Where are you from?’ without even introducing themselves. However, with time, I learned to not pay too much mind,” says the young woman with the shiny black hair and bright smile. In terms of Europride, she says she didn’t know of it but she made sure to check out the numerous related events online.
As for her favorite places in the city? “‘The Umbrellas’ and Thermi Dam,” she answers without a second thought.
Τ. 231 022 0059.
12:00-23:30 (καθημερινά).
Where & when
6 Kalapothaki st.
Τ. 231 022 0059. Opening hours: 12:00-23:30 (daily).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
meze bar & restaurant
Voukakrato
At this meze restaurant, they believe in good company, good food and wine, and tastes and smells that stir childhood memories.
EN Voukakrato is a new-school meze restaurant that may have opened its doors recently but it’s already created a buzz with its authentic Greek and Mediterranean food. The name comes from Byzantine cuisine: “voukakrato” refers to bread dipped in wine, which was a meal taken before breakfast. And that’s exactly how they welcome you once you take a seat at your table.
The back-of-the-house team’s approach to cooking is simplicity. First-rate Greek ingredients and slightly adapted traditional recipes translate into authentic dishes you would change nothing about – they’re perfect as they are. The wood-fired oven gives character to the food, while all the baked goods, pies, desserts, and pickles are made in-store. The delicious dishes made
with gusto include the Traditional Fried Meatballs in tomato sauce, the Chickpea Casserole with samphire and shrimp, as well as fresh fish and seafood to bring an air of the Aegean to the table, such as the Wood-Fired Octopus.
But Voukakrato is not just about taste; it’s also about people. That’s the secret ingredient that makes for flavorsome food. It’s a modern space that invites you to join a big group of friends. Next to the open kitchen with its wood-fired oven, the impressive bar welcomes you exactly as you are – whether you’re sociable or your solitary self today, you’ll still find the comfort you’re looking for. There’s also an outdoor space for al fresco dining on Kalapothaki, one of the city’s most appealing streets.
Stefanos Tsitsopoulos journalist, author, radio producer
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN Let’s crash the past and look to, and plan, the future fearlessly. Closed, distrustful, introverted, and conservative, Thessaloniki was never an open city, except during the era of Yiannis Boutaris, who
introversion as a city, when – especially these days in Greece and in Europe –more and more local and national societies move into the realm of “the darkness”. Things are no better in Marseilles or London, Amsterdam or Berlin – nor in Athens, where I’ve lived in recent years. Regardless of how, to support tourism, Athens’ facade, like our own city center, appears to have a cosmopolitan profile of tolerance that favors and pursues the coexistence of different languages, sexual and non-sexual identities, and multi-global customs. Everywhere else run the same bleak conditions as “up here”.
In Thessaloniki, a visit to our western and eastern suburbia demonstrates that the city is not at its most democratic. Very recently we saw this “darkness” parading around Aristotelous Square, accosting fellow citizens and using the slogan “tear down the faggots”. At the same time, a mindset of bullying is cultivated every day on sports radio and several political programs on radio stations that consistently embrace everything that is nationalistic, anti-Western, anti-scientific, religiously fanatical, and barbarous.
successfully reconnected its present with its Jewish, Ottoman, and other cosmopolitan past, while at the same time managing to open financially invigorating tourist routes to Europe and the nearer Balkan country. But let’s not lay full claim to
Let’s get to the point: In this global circumstance of extreme political, religious, and aesthetic hooliganism, what it takes to “open” Thessaloniki, as well as all of Greece, is one, two, three, several Europrides like the one that’s coming up. What is needed is constant vigilance and brave decisions (same-sex marriage), against populist hurdles such as “that’s what the city is like”, “society is not mature yet”, or “what did you expect?”. Let’s promote and advance the concept of an open society with pertinent cultural agendas and with a new model of development, which the city urgently needs.
Where & when
45 Kazantzidi st., Pilea.
German delicacies
Τ. 231 04 71 140. Also, in Modiano Market (24 Ermou st. & 33 Vas. Irakliou st.), and in Kalamaria (88 G.Papandreou st.). Opening hours: Daily, all day long. Scan QR codes
Deutsche Metzgerei Ochsenkopf
@ 45 Kazantzidi str.
@ Agora Modiano
@ 88 Papandreou str.
συνοδευτικά, μπίρες, αρτύματα, αλλά και λαχταριστά, ολόφρεσκα σάντουιτς
EN
It’s not easy to replicate a cuisine when you’re in a different country. They say that no food, no traditional recipe will ever be as tasty as in its country of origin. And, usually, they are correct.
Usually... because every rule has its exception – and in the case of Thessaloniki, this exception goes by the name Ochsenkopf. This traditional German delicatessen was handed down to the second generation, Eleni Latsinoglou and Eirinaios Tanoulis, who made it a must-visit for lovers of
good food, both locals and visitors. Ochsenkopf first opened its doors in 1998 in the area of Pylaia, Thessaloniki, as a sausage and cold cuts manufacturer. Twenty-six years later (besides Pylaia, where they also have an iconic food truck), the company runs two more contemporary delicatessens (at Modiano Market and, since a few weeks ago, in Kalamaria). Customers can either purchase their products of choice to enjoy at home or sit down and eat on the spot at the delis, which are open from morning to late in the evening.
Wonder what you can find in the display cases of the shops and food truck? Nothing less than the best! Ochsenkopf staff make 70% of their products in their own workshops, using pure, premium ingredients. You’ll also find top-notch accompaniments, from beer to sauces and seasonings, as well as gorgeous fresh sandwiches to satisfy your appetite (and also heavenly desserts to complete your dining experience in the best possible way). Are you already off for one of the Ochsenkopf locations? If not, what are you waiting for?
Panagiotis-IliosPante Tserventis student GR
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN When his Balinese mother saw the word for sun written in Greek, she knew that this name would suit her sun since half of his ancestry is from the “land of the light” – Greece. He first saw the Greek sun in the sky at age 15, when he arrived in Thessaloniki to meet his father’s family. Since then, he’s lived here, studying at ACT and now considering Thessaloniki his home, as he can be close to his grandmother and her “sarma” stuffed leaves, which rightfully occupy a promi-
nent place in the cookbook.
“When I came here, I was a little worried about how people would see me, as I knew I looked somewhat different. At first, some of the elderly looked at me with curiosity, because I have some Greek features as well as some more ethni-
cally diverse features. This transition was quite easy, though. As soon as I realized that I’m a little different but I won’t let my difference stop me from being who I am, people accepted me easily. For example, when I was
learning the language, they said that ‘at least he’s trying to make Thessaloniki his home’ – and this is something everyone respects,” he says.
In terms of Europride, he points out that everyone deserves to feel appreciated and accepted, while he comments that an event focused on inclusion should protect itself from criticism as much as possible, recalling – with a little humor – a taxi driver’s complaints about road closures for a similar event...
Τ. 231 12 18 365.
12:30-23:00
Where & when
October 28th st., Asvestohori. Τ. 231 12 18 365. Opening hours: 12:30-23:00 (Daily – Closed on Tuesdays).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
Seafood and More
An unexpected gastronomic surprise in one of Thessaloniki’s most beautiful suburbs.
EN The element of surprise is one of the greatest advantages a new restaurant that aspires to attract an audience can have – and that’s something Tsouknida, the new (and at the same time classic) restaurant on the outskirts of Thessaloniki is known for.
This location was not unknown to Thessalonians – in fact, its history takes us back to 1907, when Christos Nitsis opened “O Paradisos tou Patsatzi” to cater to lovers of traditional patsa soup. The restaurant
would continue for four generations (changing its name to “Ichthys” at some point) and, after a few years’ short break, it would return to the city’s culinary scene as “Tsouknida” – Greek for nettle.
Where’s the surprise?
Simply in that few would expect to find an ambitious fish restaurant in a mountainous suburb of Thessaloniki, hidden within a lush oasis of plane trees and babbling waters. Indeed, at Tsouknida you’ll find freshly caught seafood every day cooked with mastery, risotto and kritharoto dishes, though this doesn’t mean they don’t serve beautiful cuts of meat – our favorite is the Stable Steak. You’ll pair these delights with excellent Greek wines, retsina, superb tsipouro, and a handpicked selection of spirits, in a space that’s also ideal for children, who will enjoy the wonderful playground. Plus, to further enhance your stress-free enjoyment, Tsouknida has set up comfortable access for people with mobility issues, while providing ample parking space for your vehicle.
15, Τ. 231 02 20 223.
08:00-18:00 (ΔΕ-ΣΑ).
Where & when
15 Mitropolitou Iosif st.,
Τ. 231 02 20 223.
Opening hours: 08:00-18:00 (Mon-Sat).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
MLRT MicrobakerySourdough
Finally,
έξοχες πρώτες ύλες
κάνουν τη γέμιση κάθε πίτας πρωταγωνιστή, καθιστώντας δύσκολη την επιλογή
μεταξύ τυρόπιτας, κασερόπιτας, πίτας
λαχανικών, πρασόπιτας με μανιτάρια, κοτόπιτας, κιμαδόπιτας και χορτόπιτας), γλυκά μπριός, αδιανόητα αφράτα κρουασάν βουτύρου (σκέτα ή με γέμιση),
EN What happens when a civil engineer meets an expert in spirits and rare distillates, and they both have a passion for real, authentic bread that resembles what Grandma baked back in the village (or maybe even better)?
Very simply, a new epicurean religion is born – as well as a new space, where the clerics of authentic bread create veritable masterpieces. One such place of worship dedicated to bread and baked goods can be found in the center of Thessaloniki (a child of the creative folly, drive, and passion of Alexandros Panopoulos and Angelos Fotseinos). From your very first visit, you are destined to return again and again (a fate you’ll agree is very welcome).
At Sourdough Microbakery, time is relative. Its people are committed to the spirit of slow food, investing in quality. And they succeed brilliantly! Using natural sourdough starter (yeast is banned!) and slow-curing dough, they bake five types of bread each day: a semolina bread made with wheat sourdough and durum flour, a tartine made with Greek whole-wheat sourdough, a multiseed loaf, a French baguette, and a Scandinavian rye bread. And that’s not all.
On the tables of Sourdough Microbakery you’ll find what are perhaps the best Greek pies in Thessaloniki (the superb ingredients make the filling of each pie the star of the show, making it hard to choose between cheese pie, yellow kasseri cheese pie, vegetable pie, leek pie with mushrooms, chicken pie, meat mince pie, and hortopita herb pie), sweet brioches, impossibly fluffy butter croissants (plain or with fillings), many variations of focaccia bread, mini brioche sandwiches with cold cuts and cheeses, as well as nine panini bread options (a perfect snack for any time of the day). Importantly, everything you’ll taste is handmade from start to finish. As the team proudly proclaims, “we don’t open cans or squeeze tubes in our bakery. Everything we offer, we make ourselves, from scratch.”
And the best thing is, Sourdough is growing through a fascinating project that promises to make Mitropolitou Iosif Street our new daily stop in the city center. We can’t wait!
Caravan B&B
Giorgos Kourtidis
co-founder, The Caravan B&B
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN Thessaloniki, a city full of history, culture, and vibrancy, never seemed to be nor was open and welcoming. Reality isn’t rosy as regards the acceptance and inclusion of the LGBTI community. Undoubtedly, organizing Thessaloniki Pride
every summer is a big step in the right direction. It’s a celebration that gives voice and visibility to the LGBTI community and invites citizens to celebrate diversity – however, it is not enough. There are still challenges in everyday life. Prejudice and discrimination endure, often hidden behind the veil of the “traditional family”. Many LGBTI people are reluctant to express themselves openly, for fear of
rejection or marginalization. So, what does it take to make Thessaloniki truly open? First of all, education and awareness. Schools ought to teach acceptance and respect from a young age. Businesses and public organizations should implement anti-discrimination policies and promote an inclusive environment. In addition, local government and civil society
should actively support the LGBTI community. This can be achieved by creating safe spaces, where individuals can express themselves without fear, and also by organizing more events and awareness initiatives. Thessaloniki has the potential to become a truly open city. With conscious efforts from all of us, it can transform into a place where every person, regardless of identity, will feel accepted and safe. And then we will be able to truly say that our city is a city for all of us.
Προξένου
Τ. 231 40 70 919. Ώρες
08:00-20:00 (ΔΕ-ΣΑ).
Where & when
13 Proxenou Koromila st.,
Τ. 231 40 70 919.
Opening hours: 08:00-20:00 (Mon-Sat).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
bread, sweets & more
Country Breadery
Exquisite bread and delectable baked goods made with slow-curing sourdough.
EN Of all the delicacies you can bite into, bread is the most heartfelt and the most comforting. Alexandros Topalidis and his twin sisters, Marianthi and Kyriaki, understood this early on. So, about a year ago, in April 2023, they decided to take the next step, funneling their love and knowledge of bread into opening their own space in the city center. It’s a very special bakery
with an open workshop where they make excellent bread and pastries.
The three siblings invested in the bread market’s next big thing: slow-curing sourdough made with natural starter. Using this exceptional ingredient, they bake delicious, mouth-watering bread to elevate any meal. They don’t stop there, either: At Country Breadery, you’ll also find slow-cured French croissants filled with various pralines and creams, as well as other treats from croissant dough such as rolls and flat croissants. And if you’re wondering why Thessalonians keep queueing outside number 13 Proxenou Koromila Street, grab a pen and paper to write down everything else you ought to try: buttery village-style pies (handmade, just like all their products, they contain the best ingredients and are perfect for breakfast), fluffy Peynirli cheesy bread, and light puff pastries, as well as masterful sweets such as their Basque Cheesecake (an impossibly succulent cheesecake burnt in the oven), tiramisu, tarts, and all the good stuff.
Jasmine
Trukenpolz student and employee
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN Her fire-blond hair and bright blue eyes reveal her place of birth, Austria. But the passionate way she speaks points to where her heart calls home: South Africa, where she lived until she became an adult.
Life led her to Thessaloniki for studies, where, having now overcome the stress of moving, she feels the freedom to be herself. “At first, I was much more nervous and I didn’t know how people I meet might react,” she
says, noting that, just like in South Africa, there are very open people in some places and closed-minded people elsewhere. “It is hard for me to speak accurately. There are some conservative ideas mixed with other,
more contemporary ideas. Overall, though, I’d say that here I feel that I can express myself, be myself, always keeping in mind that not everyone might like that, of course.”
She says that she has noticed some objections to Europride but feels that anyone who wonders whether it’s necessary is rather uninformed: “I have many gay friends, and I’m bi myself. I haven’t participated in a similar event before but this year, I’m going,” she notes, expressing her gratitude to Thessaloniki because, in this respect, she feels more comfortable here than in South Africa. “But even if I were to return there, I would be now able to take that feeling with me,” she smiles.
When (and if) she leaves Thessaloniki, the sight of the city from the Castles and from its bustling seafront will certainly stay with her.
(ΔΕ-ΣΑ).
Where & when
14 Iktinou st., Τ. 231 40 72 265.
Opening hours: 07:30-19:00 (Mon-Sat).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
Bakery & more
Pinch
φουντουκιού και την τραγανή φεγεντίνη.
Για το μεσημεριανό, επιλέξτε κάποιο από τα μεγαλύτερα πεϊνιρλί με προσούτο, μορταδέλα, γύρο(!) ή pulled pork, που θα ικανοποιήσουν κάθε γευστική
EN Forget what you thought you knew about the cheesy peinirli dough pockets – besides that you would very, very happily eat one (or more) of the pictured specimens. This is now very easy to do... as long as you head to the pedestrian street of Iktinou.
For his new project, wellknown pâtissier Konstantinos Tsenikidis (known for the muchloved Fleur Boulangerie-Pâtisserie in Pylaia) reinvented this classic East Mediterranean treat, offering an ex-
perience in taste that brings together traditional recipes and modern notes. The funky urban space is impressive, with the huge pinching hand setting the mood for a journey of flavor. The striking yellows and blues of the branding, paste-up posters, and stickers add to the vibe. Always fresh, superb quality ingredients make these baked peinirli impossibly tasty. Every bite is akin to experiencing art. The menu features an assortment of mini peinirli such as the classic Cheese and Bacon, the Feta, Tomato and Pepper, the fantastic Peinirli with Mozzarella and Basil Pesto, the popular Chicken with Caesar’s Sauce, and vegan options. Those with a sweet tooth will fall head over heels for Pinch’s very original sweet peinirli options – Patisserie Cream and Caramelized Filo Pastry or Hazelnut Praline and Crispy Croquant Crumble. For lunch, choose one of the larger peinirli: Prosciutto, Mortadella, Gyros (!), or Pulled Pork, all well-equipped to satisfy your every epicurean desire.
Pinch is no mere foodie haunt; it’s an experience that combines quality and authenticity.
Apodec
Tenia Menegaki
owner, Apodec
THESSALONIKI
OPEN
CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN Thessaloniki is open to the horizon of Thermaikos Gulf, the largest in the Aegean Sea. Open to the youth and the thousands of students. Individuals with concerns and questions who, along with organizations that support LGBTQ+ rights, are fostering avenues to awareness, inclusion, and visibility.
However, at the same time, many smaller or larger “Thessalonikis” which are introverted and closeted coexist in the same city. There is still a lot to be done for all of us to coexist in an open Thessaloniki. To create a shared narrative. Cohesive and always inclusive, without shrouds of secrecy. We might even achieve it. Starting from understanding and engagement.
&
Wolt, efood
Where & when
44 Ermou st., Τ. 231 02 28 228./
5 I.Delliou st./ 72 Egnatia st. Also, on Wolt, efood, and Box platforms.
Scan QR codes to find these spots on the map:
Peach Boy
Why is this cafeteria the talk of the town? It just takes one visit to know.
EN A city’s cafes are living and breathing spaces. They don’t just fulfill the need to drink coffee and have someone prepare it for you; they are living proof of nowness; spaces to witness a city’s tribes come together, hear its sounds, see its current face, meet its people. And if these windows into a city’s soul also serve top-notch coffee, well, then they become your new go-to. And you never betray them. Ever.
This is exactly what the restless team behind Thessaloniki’s most exciting coffee project of the last few years, Peach Boy, has achieved. In essence, the recipe was simple: Choose the best places to see and to be seen. Here, Peach Boy passes with flying colors, with downtown all-time-classic Ermou Street and certain-footfall Egnatia, as well as the next big thing of Ioannou Deliou, near the Sintrivani, which is fast becoming the new best place to be in the city center. Then, build spaces that are attractive and comfortable, exuding comfort without excess. And, certainly, serve the best coffee on the market – which Peach Boy achieved by collaborating with specialty roaster Valenio Coffee, created by Thessalonian coffee virtuoso Valantis Lamprianidis. And that’s pretty much how you set up the quintessential coffee success story – as evidenced by the long lines (mostly on the younger side) you’ll see every day outside any of the three Peach Boy locations.
Of course, restless teams are exactly that: restless. So they never stop changing, evolving, and reinventing themselves. At Peach Boy Ermou, there’s already an additional space where you can buy uniquely designed clothes and jewelry, while something interesting this way comes at the Ioannou Deliou location. As always, the sky is the limit. We can’t wait!
@ 5 Delliou st. @ 44 Ermou st. @ 72 Egnatia st.
231 054 1373.
coffee, cocktails & more
Where & when
2 Verias st., Τ. 231 054 1373. Opening hours: 09:00-03:00 (Mon-Sat), 10:00-02:00 (Sun).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
Romantzo
The veritable star of the renaissance of a previously neglected area, this favorite hangout is already considered the next big thing in downtown.
EN Some streets in our city’s center have a distinctive dynamism, a distinctive magic. Magic that stems from the establishments they host – interesting spaces set up by creative individuals for people to visit and have a good time. Spaces where the magic of togetherness is born.
One of these spaces is on Verias Street, parallel to Fragkon. Romantzo takes up two rooms across from each other at one of Thessaloniki’s now most hip locations. Its orange sign is unmistakable as you approach. You’re bound to spot it. Your day will be off to a good start here,
as soon as you walk through the door. Stealing the show are the two emblematic bars taking center stage in the two rooms, its minimal industrial aesthetic (with its distinctive tiles and metals), but mostly, Romantzo’s people, who will always welcome you with their brightest smiles. It couldn’t have been any different in a space that worships love with its very name – after all, that’s what Romantzo (Greek for romance) is: “a space that still believes in true romance”; a love that expresses itself in every way, in a bar-restaurant filled to the brim with smiles, good vibes, carefree moments,
good company, and beautiful people having a good time with an electronic soundtrack. And this lasts for a while, because Romantzo is open to everyone from early morning (for coffee fanatics or those looking for breakfast or truly great brunch, which you’ll crave again and again, on your own or with company) till late at night (with cocktails, strong beats, and a mood for partying, flirting, new people, and smiles – plenty of smiles!). That’s the very reason you can actually find every single one of the city’s tribes at its tables. Young and older folks, fashionistas, hipsters, culture vultures, the laid-back, and the restless; they’ve all made Romantzo a popular haunt, and swear by its cocktails – you just have to explore the cocktail list, which features a fascinating offering based on gin (and more), named after female movie stars. Could such a space not celebrate Europride 2024, taking place in Thessaloniki? Of course not! Romantzo’s team, in collaboration with Symposium Events, is working on the big After Pride Street Party on July 30 at 18:00, featuring live DJ sets by Akis Patronis and Elias Voulgaropoulos and everything that makes Romantzo nights truly unforgettable. We’ll be there!
Johnson Okuseinde
intern at the French Institute of Thessaloniki
THESSALONIKI OPEN CITY (OR IS IT?)
EN Although he knew very little about Thessaloniki before he came to the city, to intern at the culture department of the French Institute in the framework of Erasmus+, when he arrived, he saw a place he liked a lot. “I was surprised by what I encountered. Thessaloniki is a very friendly and welcoming city.
A city with a lot of young people of different backgrounds and different styles. Everyone here is polite and
helpful. I think it’s easy to adapt to the city’s lifestyle because there are various activities and many things to see. My experience of Thessaloniki has been fantastic. I got to know a new culture and made friends. I really like it here,” says Johnson.
Born in Nigeria but having lived since he was 13 in Nice, South France, the 23-year-old loves the Port of Thessaloniki, where “you can relax with a cup of ice cream in hand”, gazing at the sea and the sunset. “I love
the brick buildings of the port, but also the restaurant overlooking Thermaikos,” explains Johnson, who has studied Management and Commerce, and plans to continue his studies in Digital Communication. With Europride fast approaching, he comments that it’s an event that will not only help boost the city’s visibility (as visitors are expected from around the world), but that it also “significantly helps to foster the spirit of inclusion, bringing together different people and promoting acceptance and unity. After all,” as he says, “we are all the same.”
Πού & πότε
Στο Γαλλικό Ινστιτούτο (αίθουσα Allatini-Dassault), λεωφόρος Στρατού 2Α. Είσοδος ελεύθερη. Διάρκεια: 06-26.06. Ωράριο λειτουργίας: 18:00-21:00 (ΔΕ-ΠΑ), 11:00-14:00 (ΣΑ).
Επιμέλεια έκθεσης:
Αλέξανδρος Καπετάνου.
Where & when
At the French Institute of Thessaloniki (Allatini-Dassault hall), 2Α Stratou Ave. Free admission. Duration: 06-26.06.
Opening hours: 18:00-21:00 (Mon-Fri), 11:00-14:00 (Sat).
Exhibition curator: Alexandros Kapetanou.
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
art exhibition
Visualbility Vol.2
Europride. A collective art exhibition for EuroPride at the French Institute of Thessaloniki.
the body, norms, values, freedom, emancipation, empowerment, memory, identity, collective representations, sexuality, love, and gender.
EN A total of eighty Greek artists present their work in an exhibition organised by the French Institute of Thessaloniki together with the Double Trouble group, under the auspices of the general consulate of France and in collaboration with ThessalonikiPride. Through painting, sculpture, digital art, performance and other mediums of art, the 80 participants engage concepts such as
The exhibition, held for a second consecutive year, aims to highlight the right to visibility for LGBTQ+ people as well as foster respect for diversity, freedom of sexual orientation and gender identity, and the fight against discrimination, homophobia and transphobia. “The Visualbility exhibition aims to highlight issues of inclusion and self-determination, and to send a message of support towards that which is different through the different starting points of each artist and the different materials and technics” notes the curator of the exhibition, Alexandros Kapetanou. “Through narrative rich stories and reflections, we, as artists, attempt to encourage initiatives of activism in our city and art practices on a social level. Our action is integrated, shaped and strengthened by EuroPride2024 actions with social empowerment through the artistic prism as its very purpose”.
artwork: Katerina Kyriafini
THESSALONIKI IN A NUTSHELL
How to best experience Thessaloniki? By walking its neighborhoods, of course! Bustling, colorful, and vibrant, every quarter of this city has its distinct character, owing to the charm of the almost magical space between old and new, tradition and futurism. Distances are short, allowing easy access to the most interesting of places. Put on your comfiest shoes, grab your camera, and off we go!
THESSALONIKI NUTSHELL
coffee, tea & snacks
The Seed Specialty Coffee Project
EN Sometimes it’s obvious that a place was a labor of love... And The Seed is just that. Opening its doors in July of 2023, it was born of the creative inspiration of Gerasimos Kontos, who professionally trains baristas to make great coffee and use equipment masterfully. Its mission was simple: to offer top-notch coffee from freshly roasted specialty beans whose high quality and flavors have been very carefully preserved. In fact, Gerasimos has created his own blend of 100% Arabica beans from Central America and East Africa. Boasting aromas of bitter chocolate and nuts with notes of jasmine, it has a full body, light acidity, and a glorious aftertaste.
&
12.
231 05 10 051.
07:00-21:00 (ΔΕ-ΚΥ).
Where & when
12 Leontos Sofou st. Τ. 231 05 10 051. Opening hours: 07:00-21:00 (Mon-Sun).
You’ll enjoy your drink in handmade cups in a highly aesthetic, minimal space. But you won’t stay just for coffee; you’ll accompany it with excellent sandwiches with organic ingredients, and you’ll also get a chance to enjoy excellent tea in its purest form, without additives or flavor boosters.
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
EN Thessaloniki’s
2,300-year-old port has endless stories to tell! It has always been an asset to the city, to this day. In addition to supporting commercial and maritime activities, the Port has a unique bond with the city and its inhabitants. After the piers were regenerated, with buildings and facilities restored, the Port of Thessaloniki also houses plenty of culture and events, as well as
entertainment. In fact, it came second in Europe in a competition organized by the European Sea Ports Organization (ESPO) that assessed its relationship with the people of the city. Today, its converted warehouses also host MOMus – Thessaloniki Museum of Photography and the Thessaloniki Cinema Museum & Cinematheque, adding all the more reason to visit. Don’t miss the amazing view of the city and its coastline behind the sea from the First Pier. It’s a favorite spot for locals too, especially in the warm evenings of spring and summer.
The Blue Cup
Creative Bar
EN Walking one of the longest seafronts in Europe is perhaps the most popular pastime in Thessaloniki. Whether you’re on foot, on a bicycle, or electric scooter, the freshly regenerated seafront rewards you with endless seascapes – with Mount Olympus across the gulf visible on clear days, too.
Prepare your camera, because on the seafront that stretches more than 4km from the Port to the Thessaloniki Concert Hall, you’ll have a lot to see and shoot: the White Tower, the imposing symbol of the city; the statue of Alexander the Great on horseback;
the Umbrellas sculpture by Zongolopoulos, one of the most photographed and romantic spots in the city; and 12 themed gardens to relax and do activities in, featuring everything from herbaceous borders and shady spots to ponds and waterfalls, tennis courts, skateboard and BMX parks, playgrounds, cafeterias, refreshment stands and kiosks. The seafront alone will certainly inspire your romantic side, but coming here for the stunning sunset will take the experience to new heights. As the sun disappears into the sea, painting the sky and water a million colors, consider hopping on one of the boats doing mini-cruises of Thermaikos Gulf, available from the White Tower. This way, you’ll also get to admire the city from the sea, stretching uphill to the Castles and beyond, to the local woods.
EN You’ll find The Blue Cup in a preserved, listed building in the colorful Ladadika area.
From early morning, it offers a
caffeine experience centered around single-origin, handprocessed specialty coffee. And as the day unfolds, the team of creative bartenders mixes up inventive cocktails, using the mixology lab housed on the top floor to centrifuge ingredients to 100% of their flavor. If the time is right and you know the password, there’s one more surprise upstairs at The Blue Cup: a very different backdrop they call “the speakeasy floor”...
&
231 09 00 666.
Where & when
8 Salaminos st., Τ. 231 09 00 666. Opening hours: 08:00-02:00 (Mon-Sun).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
photo: Thessaloniki seafront
food, coffee & spirits
Omicron Z
creamy chicken, αλλά
New York Cheesecake),
EN It’s people who make a favorite hangout – make it into somewhere warm and friendly, where you yearn to
Πού & πότε
Ζεύξιδος 2, Τ. 231 023 7924. Ώρες λειτουργίας: 10:00-02:00 (ΔΕ-KY).
Where & when
2 Zefksidos st., Τ. 231 023 7924. Opening hours: 10:00-02:00 (Mon-Sun).
return again and again. That’s exactly the vibe at Omicron Z, on the picturesque pedestrian street of Zefxidos. We love to sit at its retro tables, surrounded by antique furniture and colorful objects, with a musical backdrop of swing and jazz. Open from morning (for coffee and brunch), it continues as one of the city’s best lunch spots (you’ll find salads, juicy burgers, and fantastic creamy chicken as well as, for dessert lovers, Red Velvet Cake and an impossibly creamy New York Cheesecake), to take off in the evening with signature cocktails, uplifting music, and beautiful people.
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
EN Ladadika = fun! All-day (but mainly all-night), entertainment, your name in Thessaloniki is Ladadika. This once-commercial neighborhood was the center of the olive oil trade, from which it takes its name. But it slowly fell into decline after WWII, becoming disreputable and derelict. The turning point was 1985, when the entire area was listed as a historic neighborhood to be preserved – and its restoration started. The dozens of colorful two-floor warehouses transformed into cafeterias, restaurants, stylish bars, bistros, clubs, and more, and the cobbled streets filled with sounds from quite literally every type of music. As for the food, creative Greek and international dishes, as well as a never-ending parade of traditional delicacies, showcase the great culinary tradition of Thessaloniki. Start your tour at Morichovou and Katouni Squares. The night is long at Ladadika, and the fun lasts till the morning, so get yourself ready to experience Thessaloniki by night!
EN Thessaloniki rising from the ashes... The heart of the city beats at Aristotelous Square, one of the country’s biggest and most impressive. After a fire all but destroyed the city’s center in 1917, French architect Ernest Hébrard was recruited to redesign it. The architecture of the colonnades and arches on the facades follows European and Byzantine styles and trends. Some of its most beautiful buildings are the impressive Electra Palace Hotel on the west side, near the sea, and Olympion Cinema right across it, which is the headquarters of the Thessaloniki International Film Festival. But don’t forget to also walk uphill from the sea to marvel at the rest of what Aristotelous has to offer. Dozens of events and happenings are held near the seafront throughout the year, while the cafeterias are popular all day long. The backdrop of the sea offers spectacular views (and sunsets!), rendering this square a favorite meeting place for both locals and visitors.
EN This very happening area is a success story of transformation. Once the location of fabric retailers and workshops, as well as office blocks, it became the city’s hot new haunt. Abandoned shops on Valaoritou and the surrounding streets got a new lease on life as cafeterias, bars, and restaurants to fit every taste – from pop to rock, jazz, electro, alternative, and more, bar-hopping is imperative here. Beyond the nightlife, it’s also worth wandering around the general Valaoritou area to catch glimpses of Thessaloniki’s past by locating iconic buildings such as the Catholic Church, State Conservatory of Thessaloniki, and Malakopi Arcade, which now houses lots of exciting options for the evening.
coffee & drinks
Pastaflora darling
To must-visit
The must-visit haunt in the city center.
GR
Pastaflora Darling is certainly one of those. Since 2002, when it opened its doors, it’s one of the city center’s “constants” thanks to the unique vibe, vintage décor (with all sorts of colorful tables and chairs from bygone eras, heaps of old toys, and retro paintings), as well as its ethos of ever-constant support of all diversity.
EN Some places don’t need much introduction, and
6. Τ. 231 02 61 518.
10:00-03:00 (ΔΕ-ΚΥ).
Where
& when
6 Zefksidos st., Τ. 231 02 61 518. Opening hours: 10:00-03:00 (Mon-Sun).
The little tables are packed from early morning (when you’ll arrive for a coffee and brunch – make sure to try the pastaflora, the café’s signature dessert) till late at night (patrons swear by the signature cocktails, accompanied by excellent finger food).
Scan QR code to find this spot on the map:
photo: Aristotelous Square
EN This antiques market reveals yet another of the many stories of Thessaloniki. Bit Bazaar was a small settlement built in 1928 for Greek refugees arriving from Asia Minor. Located between Olympou, Venizelou and Tositsa, it’s hidden away by more modern apartment blocks, with archways leading to a central square with two-story buildings. All sorts of vintage objects and antiques are available to buy here, as well as small furniture and other fragments of the city’s past. What’s more, cafeterias, wine tavernas, meze eateries, and alternative music bars have all opened in the area in recent decades, with Bit Bazaar blossoming into a hangout for Thessalonians, especially students.
Ano Poli (Upper Town)
Along the way, the old city walls will be your companions. These eternal defenders of Thessaloniki also link to Yedi Kule prison (also known as the Eptapyrgio) on the northeast side of the city’s acropolis and Trigoniou Tower, which offers truly unforgettable, panoramic views of the city as it embraces the sea.
Athonos Square
EN The city’s balcony! Walking uphill from the city’s center and leaving behind the densely built apartment blocks, you’ll discover a different Thessa-
loniki – a nostalgic city that echoes a rich and interesting past. Starting from Agiou Dimitriou Street, you’ll come across important monuments and churches, many of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list: the Holy Church of Saint Catherine, Vlatadon Monastery, the Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos, the Church of Hosios David, the Church of the All-Great Taxiarchs, Alaca Imaret Mosque, the Mausoleum of Musa Baba.
EN Full of life all day long, Athonos Square in the city center is enjoyed by locals and tourists alike, and is a must-visit for anyone interested in food and flavor. All manner of spices, herbs, teas, nuts, fruits, vegetables,
photo: Ano Poli (Upper Town)
photo: Athonos Square
photo: Aristotelous Square
photo: The port
fish, and cheese are on sale during the day, as well as clothes, handmade accessories, and decorative objects for the home – but watch out as the tantalizing smells of freshly-cooked delicacies from the nearby traditional tavernas might distract you. Open from midday until well into the night, some even feature live Greek music.
To catch a glimpse of the past of this square, wander into the alleys downhill from the tavernas to the tiny picturesque shops where the few enduring local artisans make and sell wicker baskets, decorations, and furniture.
EN Not so long ago, these city center streets were simply known for being home to the schools of Iktinou – but out of the blue, they became the place to be. With a strong sense of style and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere, cafeterias, cocktail bars, bistros, and restaurants started popping up and quickly won over Thessalonians. A stone’s throw away is the popular Pavlou Mela Street, boasting great retail shopping and its
own excellent bars and eateries. Where Mackenzie King and Iktinou Street meet, you’ll come across the unique church-catacomb of St. John the Baptist. Descend the steps to find yourself in a cool, green oasis. Formerly a Roman bath and an early Christian baptistery, St. John the Baptist’s well-preserved catacombs are one of the most fascinating pieces of the underground history of Thessaloniki, and remain a working church.
Melenikou, Rotunda
EN Student life forever!
Thanks to their proximity to Aristotle University (AUTh), the pedestrianized streets connecting the Rotunda to the sea, through Navarinou Square, are one of the most popular student hangouts.
In the numerous cafés around the imposing cylinder of the Rotunda, students take a breather, sipping coffee and playing backgammon and board games. Nearby, restaurants and tavernas serve up budget-friendly meals and unpretentious vibes.
Walking down Melenikou Street alongside the surviving parts of the city’s eastern wall, you find Kamara – the Arch of Galerius, before reaching Dimitriou Gounari, a pedestrian street filled with shops, bookstores, and fast food joints, and then Navarinou. This square is one of the liveliest parts of the city, a favorite meeting place for the youth, who have frequented its surrounding cafeterias, bars and restaurants for generations. Here, you’ll also find the “boy who whistles”, as is the name of the fountain in its center, standing carefree next to a vast complex of Roman ruins. Here, you can admire one of the archeological gems of the city: the palace of Emperor Galerius, hailing back to 300AD.
photo: The famous sunset
photo: Navarinou Square
photo: Thessaloniki seafront
LOCAL FOOD IN A NUTSHELL
FOOD NUTSHELL
Thessaloniki is a paradise of flavor. You will realize this from your very first wander around the city, where you’re quite literally surrounded by gyros shops, bougatsa joints, ouzo and meze eateries, traditional tavernas, trendy bar-restaurants, gourmet spots, as well as traditional pastry shops. They’re everywhere, from the heart of the city next to the sea through to the Upper City, and hidden in unexpected corners of the urban fabric. The gastronomic pleasures to be had are never-ending!
EN The epicurean identity of Thessaloniki is made up of local dishes enriched by the many cultures that have inhabited the city through the centuries and the recipes that Greek refugees brought with them from Asia Minor, Pontus, and Eastern Thrace. Today, Thessaloniki’s cuisine is evolving thanks to local chefs’ creative appetite for experimentation and variations upon this rich tradition – and it promises to take your palate to new heights.
The most illustrious travel magazines, newspapers, and international websites have praised the gastronomy of Thessaloniki – including The New York Times, which included Thessaloniki on the list of 52 cities to visit in 2016, particularly noting that Greece’s second city comes first in
terms of gastronomy. Follow the foodie map we have prepared, to experience some of the best dining that the city has to offer. Λαδάδικα Ladadika
interested in food and flavor. All manner of spices, herbs, teas, nuts, fruits, vegetables, fish, and cheese are on sale during the day – but watch out as the mesmerizing aromas of freshly cooked delicacies from the nearby traditional tavernas might distract you. Open from midday until well into the evening, some even offer live Greek music. Πλατεία
EN Welcome to the neighborhood of flavors! Once upon a time, this historic area near the port used to house the wholesale olive oil trade. No longer, though. After a few derelict decades, the picturesque houses were listed, renovated, and put to new use as the ultimate destination for dining and entertainment – a true must for every visitor. The cobbled streets and squares of Ladadika and nearby Kalapothaki Street boast great tavernas, hip restaurants, pubs, bars, and bistros serving a huge variety of delicacies from Greek, Mediterranean, and international cuisine both traditional and contemporary, cementing the city’s reputation for gastronomy.
EN The food tastes like times gone by in Tsinari, in the heart of Upper Town, uphill from the Diikitirio Government Building. Leave behind the hustle and bustle of the center to climb narrow steps and lose yourself in winding alleys, where the houses are small and the gardens fragrant in the summer evenings. You’ll taste delicious food with an air of Asia Minor and good wine, tsipouro, or raki in one of the memorable meze tavernas.
Navarinou Square
GR
EN Full of life all day long, Athonos Square in the city center is loved by locals and tourists alike, and is a must-visit for anyone
EN Walking towards the sea from Kamara (the Arch of Galerius), you’ll reach the pedestrian street of Dimitriou Gounari and Navarinou Square. Buzzing all day long, this is one of the most lively and alternative parts of the city – and a favorite of the thousands of Thessaloniki’s students, who spend their time in its cafeterias and bars, or just hanging out near “the boy who whistles”, as they call the fountain of Navarinou. The various restaurants surrounding the square will
satisfy the most demanding of visitors, and there is plenty of choice for those who want a taste of fast food too, including crepes, ice cream, pizza, and coffee, before continuing their tour of the city.
Castles/ Upper Town
EN Visiting the Castles of Thessaloniki feels like you’ve wandered into a different city. Gorgeous neighborhoods, Macedonian mansions, picturesque houses, flower-filled gardens, narrow streets, and traditional kafeneio eateries, tavernas, and meze joints cooking up the most delicious dishes... You’ll find them dotted around a maze of alleys, even right next to the city walls, beckoning to take you back in time to the city’s past. Discover the wealth of flavors on offer here, near Eptapyrgiou Street, Trigoniou Tower, Oxi Avenue, and the surrounding streets. Also consider coming to this area for coffee or lunch, to enjoy panoramic views of the city and the sea – a wonderful combination, without a doubt.
