WORKING LUNCH: THE TAMIL PRINCE

The Tamil Prince is the sort of London boozer-cum-restaurant that’s so achingly cool it could do with being taken down a peg or two. It’s a shame I can’t be the one to do that.

If you’ve been to The Marksman, another hipster pub-turned-restaurant, you’ll know the vibe The Tamil Prince is going for. If you haven’t, book both immediately.

The South Indian menu is served in the innards of a former pub where Britney Spears blares from the speakers, a f*** you to the idea that lauded restau- rants need to take themselves seriously. (If Clare Smyth can play The Ramones from her thrice-Michelinstarred dining room then I don’t see why Britney can’t work in Islington.) preview of what they will be serving.

The tea, here gets that we’re all busy and has devised a menu that allows you to relax rather than have to do any thinking, God forbid.

The menu has been updated for the first time since opening in June 2022 and everything still sings. In the open kitchen chefs throw ingredients around with the suggestion that they could do this from their deepest sleep.

CAFE PACIFICO

Cocktail: One In A Melon

Ingredients : Lanique, Gin, Nectarine liqueur, aperitivo, prosecco, lemon sorbet, homemade citrus mist Tasting notes: Watermelon and blanco tequila combined with fresh fruits and mint, perfect for a summer cocktail festival.

What they say: Carlos Londono of Cafe Pacifico: “We broke the record for cocktails served at the CitC Series in July and our twist on the watermelon margarita is always really popular. This time guests will also receive an additional complementary pipette of Vivir Reposado they can add to the drink, or simply enjoy it straight up.”

BACCARAT BAR

Cocktail: Well baked highball

Ingredients: The Singleton of Glendullan 12 Year Old, fresh cherry soda, yoghurt whey, salted cherry ferment, plum kernel distillate Tasting notes: A delicate combination of full-bodied sweetness with the refreshing swigability of a highball

What they say: Michal Maziarz: “We were happy to win best cocktail in September 2022 and to be returning this August. The style of our drinks offers familiar tasting notes but a lot of complexity resulting from the way that we prepare a lot of our homemade ingredients. At the event guests will be able to enjoy their drinks in our crystal glassware, which really adds to the sense of occasion.”

BOURNE & HOLLINGSWORTH

Cocktail: A Rose a Day

Ingredients: Lanique, Gin, Nectarine liqueur, aperitivo, prosecco, lemon sorbet

Tasting notes: A delightful, fruity, floral twist on sgroppino

What they say: Richard Lopes from Bourne & Hollingsworth: “We wanted to create the perfect summer garden party cocktail with a refreshing citrus sorbet, lengthened with bubbles and a balance of floral and fruit notes coming from the lanique and nectarine with a very light bitter note to finish it all off from the aperitivo. A lot of guests enjoyed our oyster and cocktail sessions in July and we are looking forward to bringing them back this month.”

From the small plates, the new masala dosa is a fragile, neat little folded pancake filled with comfortingly spiced potato and served with an array of chutneys. My expert analysis?

It has a brilliant crunch to goo ratio.

The king prawn and curry leaf varuval is spicier, punchier, and comes with enormous, meaty prawns. It’s big enough that it could be a main, but that’s kind of the point: you mix and match as you go.

Of the new large plates, my Indian friend points to the vegetable moilee as the most authentic. It is a simple, creamy coconut stew and is great spread on the springy charred roti. It’s also a signifier of Tamil Prince’s significant vegetarian and vegan range. The lamb chops remain and are what everyone’s writing home about. Cooked robata style over hot charcoal, the lamb is marinated for 18 hours; exquisite.

The Tamil Prince manages to be that rare thing in London restaurants: fun. There are even espresso martinis pepped up with Indian ingredients. What more could you want?