Higher View - Issue 22

Sep – Nov 2017 #22

地区美食 值得距车前往 的城外餐厅

现代中餐 澳大利亚中餐新星

上海之夜 城中最棒的调酒师

Turning tables D I S COV E R CHIN A’ S E VO LV IN G FO O D S CEN E

FRANCK MULLER ® BOUTIQUE ｜ MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET 03 9650 0288 ｜ SYDNEY SHOP 5 147 KINGS STREET 02 9231 9188｜ MELBOURNE ANTON JEWELLERY 03 9569 1000 ｜ SYDNEY SHUM’S WATCHES AND JEWELLERY 02 9211 1887 ｜GOLD COAST MONARDS 07 5538 3866

國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 0.34 CARAT EMERALD

ARGYLE RED DIAMOND- RED/SI1 GIA- NATURAL FANCY RED /SI1

0.66 CARAT EMERALD

ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND- 2PP/VS2 GIA- FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK /VS2

INVESTMENT ARGYLE TENDER STONES

0.45 CARAT EMERALD

ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND- 3PP/VVS1 GIA- FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK /VVS1

0.84 CARAT PEAR

ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND- 3PP/SI2 GIA- FANCY INTENSE PURPLISH PINK SI2

0.54 CARAT SQUARE RADIANT ARGYLE RED DIAMOND- RED/SI2 GIA- FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK /SI2

0.54 CARAT HEART

ARGYLE PINK DIAMOND- 4PP/SI1 GIA- FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK /SI1

稀世珍寶 彰顯尊貴 唯獨粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 (Pink Kimberley) 是一個典雅悅目的首 飾品牌，採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天然粉 紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石位於西 澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦，是世界上獨 一無二，極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 Pink Kimberley jewellery is crafted from an exquisite blend of white diamonds and natural Australian pink diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Mine, located in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. These pink diamonds are beyond rare and amongst the most precious diamonds in the world. A coveted Argyle Pink Diamond Certificate accompanies all Pink Kimberley pieces containing a centre stone greater than 0.15ct.

我們位於CBD悉尼市中心 ， 設有VlP私人展廳服務，歡迎親自品鑑。 查詢及預約電話: 1800 228 668 瀏覽網址: PinkKimberley.com.au VIP Private viewings available on request. Please call 1800 228 668 to arrange an appointment.

Elites Castlereagh

M Village

Xennox Diamonds

Queensland Opal Gallery

Evert Fine Jewellery

Sydney NSW 2000 電話: 02 9266 0098

Docklands VIC 3008 電話: 03 9686 2400

Street, Brisbane QLD 4000 電話: 07 3210 6288

Southport QLD 4215 電話: 07 5532 8833

Cairns QLD 4870 電話: 07 4051 2576

地址: 156 Castlereagh Street,

SYDNEY

地址: 70 NewQuay Promenade,

MELBOURNE

地址: Level 2, 141 Queen

BRISBANE

地址: 25/3-15 Jackman Street,

GOLD COAST

地址: 26 Abbott Street,

CAIRNS

The Perth Mint

地址: 310 Hay Street, East Perth WA 6004 電話: 08 9421 7222

PERTH

INTRODUCTION

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

欢迎 Welcome

From CNTO, Sydney

From China Eastern

中

中

国的地方菜系已经风靡世界各地，请参阅第104-112页领略风 靡澳大利亚的现代中餐。但真正的传统美食烹饪大师依然只 能在中国找到。我们带您一起探访北京烤鸭、点心等地方美食的烹 饪专家（第80-87页）。中国不仅有出色的烹饪大师，上海的调酒师 们作为行业翘楚也正在声名鹊起。让上海这座大城市最好的调酒师 们为您奉上他们的招牌饮品吧（第96-103页）。关于本地旅游，请参 阅第64页，中国最浪漫城市厦门的终极旅游指南。

C

hina’s regional cuisines have been replicated worldwide – just take a look at the modern Chinese dining scene that’s taking over Australia on pages 104-112 – but the real masters of traditional delicacies can only be found in the mother country itself. We take a look at China’s chefs, who’ve become experts in dishing up local treats such as Peking duck and dim sum (pages 80-87).

Not only have natives mastered food, but Shanghai-based mixologists are also making a name for themselves as some of the best in the cocktail industry. Allow the mega-city’s best bartenders to whip you up one of their signature drinks on pages 96-103.

And for a local getaway, flick to page 64 for the ultimate guide on China’s most romantic city, Xiamen. We’ve picked out the most opulent hotels to get some shut-eye at, delicious restaurants to dine at and most worthy sights to see. Planning your trip just became a whole lot easier.

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE 22

Graphic Designers Millie Jia Cynthia Lau

constantina@citrusmedia.com.au

Contributors Alicia Miller Casey Hall Dave Tacon Lisa Perkovic Shaney Hudson

Staff Writer/Photographer Trent van der Jagt

Production Manager Ian Scott

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 8188 3671

Editor Constantina Demos

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

22

Creative Director Stephanie Goh

国出境游人数日益增长。据官方公布数据，2016年中国公民出 境游人数超过1.2亿，其中有120万人来澳。东航自2016年12月 16日开通上海至布里斯班以来广受欢迎。因此从今年11月份将增加 航班至每天一班。这不仅是东航兑现其在开航典礼时的允诺，也 是对昆士兰州旅游市场的信心。我们十分感谢昆士兰州、各地旅游 局、布里斯班机场和澳大利亚旅游局对东航上海-布里斯班航线的 支持。最后，我们感谢您一直以来对东航中澳航线的支持，并祝旅途 愉快！

T

he number of Chinese travelling overseas is increasing each year. In 2016 alone, 20 million Chinese tourists travelled overseas, with 1.2 million of them coming to Australia. Since the inaugural China Eastern Airlines flight departed from Shanghai to Brisbane on December 16, 2016, the route has been welcomed.

Due to its success, China Eastern has increased flight frequency from four flights per week to daily, beginning this November. It will fulfil the promise China Eastern made in the celebration ceremony of the inaugural flight and also be a show of confidence in the Queensland tourism market. We appreciate the support from the Queensland Government and local tourism bureaus, Brisbane Airport and Tourism Australia in making the operation of this route a success. We thank our passengers for supporting our routes between WeChat China and Australia. Enjoy this pleasant journey!

Advertising Max La-Brooy (02) 8188 3664 max@citrusmedia.com.au

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

jim@citrusmedia.com.au

Crystal Wong (02) 8188 3662

Higher View is produced for business-class passengers on China Eastern flights between China and Australia. It can also be found in select newsagents and hotels. An iPad edition is available via the App Store.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web.

Citrus Media PO Box 20154 World Square NSW 2002

Cover image Greg’s Xiamen

© 2017 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher.

While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.

All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do not necessarily reflect the views

or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies. Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

Some watches Some watches « Some watches tell time. telltime. time. tell Some tell Some tell Some tell aa story story For nearly three a centuries, Jaquet Droz story For nearly three centuries, Jaquet Droz « «

« «

«

has placed time under the banner of Forhas nearly threetime centuries, Droz of placed under Jaquet the astonishment, excellence and banner constantly hasastonishment, placed timeexcellence under theand banner of constantly renewed creativity. astonishment, excellence and constantly renewed creativity.

Grande creativity.

Seconde Ivory Enamel, réf. J003033204 renewed

Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel, réf. J003033204 Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel, réf. J003033204

MELBOURNE: MONARDS, 03 9650 9288 - MONARDS CROWN, 03 9690 2566 MELBOURNE: MONARDS, 9650CONCEPT, 9288 - MONARDS CROWN, 03 9690 2566 SYDNEY:03 SWISS 02 9221 6288 MELBOURNE: MONARDS, 03 9650 9288 MONARDS CROWN, SYDNEY: SWISS CONCEPT, 02 9221 6288 03 9690 2566 SYDNEY: SWISS CONCEPT, 02 9221 6288

CONTENTS

Features

Discover all that Xiamen has to offer with our travel guide

64

56 The best of Barangaroo 布朗格鲁美食之最

64 Garden city 花园城市

72 Pub crawl 酒吧巡礼

80 Chinese cuisine 中式料理

Sydney’s newest precinct is a haven for food lovers

The best restaurants, sites and hotels to stay at in Xiamen

City pubs that are redefining their role in the food scene

Ancient dishes from the Middle Kingdom that have been mastered

88 Farm to fork 从农场到餐桌

96 Shanghai cocktail tales 上海鸡尾酒的故事

104 Modern marvels 现代中餐厅

126 Master taster 品鉴大师

Australia’s countryside has more to offer visitors than just winieries

The mixologists shaking things up at Shanghai’s best bars

A new take on traditional Chinese cuisine Down Under

Meet Hennessy’s director of distilleries, Olivier Paultes

24

25

CONTENTS

Regulars 29 News 动态新闻 What’s going on and where in China and Australia

38 Wuhan in eight stops 游武汉 Eight must-see attractions in a city that sits on the banks of the Yangtze River

44 Top 10 十大美食餐厅 The top 10 places to dine Down Under for the most important meal of the day

50 Check-in 贵阳安纳塔拉度假酒店 Natural charm at the all-new Anantara Guiyang Resort

52 Restaurant news 新菜馆 The latest restaurant news from China and Australia

54 老饕在澳

跟着吃货来到澳大利亚 到处寻觅饕餮佳肴 Discover Sydney’s newest food precinct

115 Higher life 奢华生活

56

The latest in watches, auto, wine, fashion and jewels

146 My higher life 名人专访 We chat to Anita Yuen, owner of Phoenix restaurants

Anita Yuen speaks about her passion for Asian food

The latest accessories

115

26

A new take on traditional Chinese cuisine

104

For more exclusive content follow us on WeChat: Higher View

146

悉尼歌剧院 入内参观 跟随我们的专业导游走进歌剧院内 部，探索这座艺术殿堂的精彩故事 和丰富历史。

预订 网上 节省

10%

sydneyoperahouse.com/tours +61 2 9250 7250

Sydney Opera House Principal Partner

27

PROUDLY CONNECTING AUSTRALIA AND CHINA VIA 50 FLIGHTS* EVERY WEEK

OA.CEAIR.COM

NOBLEBRANDS1107HVB

*Including codeshare flights with Qantas

THE BEST OF WHAT’S HAPPENING ACROSS CHINA AND AUSTRALIA

GOURMET ESCAPE Margaret River 29 · CARMEN Beijing 34 · SLEEPING BEAUTY Sydney 40 · HOUSE OF DIOR Melbourne 42

Image: Mark Shaw/mptvimages.com

探秘迪奥

Discover Dior For over 70 years, French fashion house Christian Dior has been at the helm of the industry. Delve into the luxury label’s history in Melbourne this spring.

For more, turn to page 42.

70多年以来，知名法国时尚品牌迪奥（DIOR） 一直走在时装界的前沿。这个春天，让我们在 墨尔本一起深入了解这个奢华品牌的历史背 景。详情请翻阅第42页。 29

TA K E O F F

活动

Events NATIONWIDE

精彩绝响

Show stopper

Elton John and his band will bring their Once in a Lifetime tour to Australia. Fitting with the tour name, three of the shows set to be played Down Under will be held in cities for the first – and last – time. The British icon will visit Mackay, Wollongong, Hobart and Cairns.

September 22-30, tour.eltonjohn.com 艾尔顿·约翰（ELTON JOHN）和他的乐队将在澳大 利亚展开《ONCE IN A LIFETIME》巡演。为契合巡 演名称，其中3场演出将首次也是最后一次在澳大利 亚的某些城市上演。这个来自英国的偶像巨星将莅 临麦基（MACKAY）、卧龙岗（WOLLONGONG）、 霍巴特（HOBART）和凯恩斯（CAIRNS）。活动日 期：9月22日至30日。

ADEL AIDE

时尚之都 Fashion capital The fashion spotlight will be on South Australia this October thanks to the Adelaide Fashion Festival. Up-and-coming designers from the southern state will showcase their unique collections in a world-class setting. October 11-15, adelaidefashionfestival.com.au 这 个 十 月 ，阿 德 莱 德 时 装 节 （ADELAIDE FASHION FESTIVAL） 将使南澳大利亚州成为时尚焦点。来 自南方的新兴设 计师将 在世界级的 舞台中展示其独特的系列时装。活动 日期：10月11日至15日。 30

TA K E O F F

NATIONWIDE

出人意料

Out of the blue Inspired by James Cameron’s Avatar, Cirque du Soleil’s Toruk – The First Flight transports you to the world of Pandora in a visually stunning live setting. The jaw-dropping circus act will be passing through Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide. October 5 – November 19, cirquedusoleil.com 受到詹姆斯·卡梅隆（JAMES CAMERON） 的 阿凡 达（AVATA R）的启发，太 阳 马戏 团 （CIRQUE DU SOLEIL）的《魅影——首次翱翔》 （TORUK - THE FIRST FLIGHT）将以令人惊叹的 视觉场景为您开启潘多拉世界。令人惊叹的马 戏表演将在布里斯班、悉尼、墨尔本和阿德莱 德轮番上演。活动日期：10月5日至11月19日。 MARGARET RIVER

海滨时光 Coast along

黄金水准 World class The 2017 Rugby League World Cup will be storming through Australia throughout the last quarter of the year, with Brisbane getting the top honour of hosting the final. October 27 – December 2, rlwc2017.com 2017世界杯联盟式橄榄球赛（RUGBY LEAGUE WORLD CUP）将于2017年第4季度席卷澳大利亚，而决赛将在布 里斯班上演。活动日期：10月27日至12月2日。

The Margaret River Gourmet Escape always delivers when it comes to attracting some of the world’s best culinary stars – think Nigella Lawson, Peter Gilmore and Heston Blumenthal.

Head to Western Australia’s south-west for a weekend filled with fabulous food, premium wine and a beachside surprise.

November 16-19, gourmetescape.com.au 玛格丽特河美食节（MARGARE T RIVER G O U R M E T E S C A P E ）汇 聚 世 界上 最 优 秀 的 烹 饪 明 星 — — 奈 洁 拉· 劳 森 （NIGELLA LAWSON）、彼得·吉尔默（PETER GILMORE）和赫斯顿·布鲁门塔尔（HESTON BLUMENTHAL），在西澳西南部的这座小镇， 为您奉上美食美酒与各种惊喜，让您尽享周 末的美妙时光。活动日期：11月16日至19日。

即将来袭 OPENING SOON

Bulgari Hotel Beijing

Edition Hotel Xiamen

位于专属使馆区的核心地带，拥有119间客 房，艺术与自然相融合。将于9月开业。

厦门艾迪逊酒店位于厦门城市的中心地段， 其中水疗中心位于酒店4层，配有户外露台 和屋顶泳池。2017年底开业。

In the heart of the Embassy District, the 119 room resort will blend art with nature. Opening September, bulgarihotels.com

In the city’s urban centre, the spa is located on the fourth floor and rooftop pool deck.

Opening late 2017, editionhotels.com 31

TA K E O F F

海岸风光

Sea the sights

Experience the very best of Western Australia’s gloriously rocky coast line via sea plane 乘坐水上飞机体验西澳大利亚州 岩石嶙峋的海岸线以及壮丽的绝 美风光。 Save yourself the three-hour drive down to Margaret River and travel in style with Swan River Seaplanes. Not only is it an upgrade in mode of transportation, but you will also get to see Western Australia’s unique rocky coast from its best angle: above. You’ll fly directly out of Perth’s Swan River and land in the iconic food region, where you’ll be introduced to the wines that have put Margaret River on the map as one of the country’s best wine regions. You’ll also get to have a taste of local produce before being guided through the town and then onto two hand-picked wineries. Here you’ll get to try award-winning wines, followed by a long lunch featuring the region’s best ingredients carefully curated just for you. At the end of your day trip, you’ll touch down where you began, on the Swan River. From $795 per person, swanriverseaplanes.com.au 不必驱车3小时前往玛格丽特河（MARGARET RIVER），SWAN RIVER SEAPLANES将为您 开启一场时尚之旅。这带给您的不仅是交通方 式的升级，您还可以从空中的绝佳角度欣赏西 澳大利亚州独一无二、岩石嶙峋的海岸。您将从 珀斯的天鹅河（SWAN RIVER）直接起飞，并在 标志性的美食区着陆，在那里体验各色美酒佳 酿——正是这些美酒佳酿使得玛格丽特河在澳 大利亚最佳美酒产区中占得一席之地。在游览 这座小镇之前，您还可以一尝当地美食，然后去 两间精选的酒庄参观。在这里，您将品味屡获殊 荣的各色美酒，并且享用为您精心准备，使用当 地最佳食材制作的长午餐。一日游结束后，您将 再次回到起点天鹅河。每人795澳元起。 32

旅游导览

Guided Tour

Hugh Jackman and the new TimeWalker Chronograph The new TimeWalker Chronograph is inspired by performance and the spirit of racing. montblanc.com/timewalker Crafted for New Heights.

Sydney 路 Melbourne 路 Brisbane 路 Perth 路 1300 36 4810

TA K E O F F

Beijing ON STAGE

Swan song

Open season

Image: Getty Images

The world’s number one tennis player, Andy Murray, will be back in 2017 to defend his China Open title. Murray will compete with top seed rivals, including all-time great Rafael Nadal, at Beijing’s premier Olympic Green Tennis Centre, built for 2008’s Olympic Games, to take home over $3 million in prize money.

October 2-8, atpworldtour.com

Founded in 1974, the Lithuanian National Opera and Ballet Theatre has been dazzling audiences with performances of traditional Western and Russian works as well as national operas for over 40 years. Come October, the dance group will be gracing the Flyover Art Center Grand Theatre Stage in Beijing with the much-loved, worldfamous ballet Swan Lake.

October 20-21, damai.cn

Image: Getty Images

Titanic appeal

Master class After a successful debut in Shanghai, The Divine Michelangelo Art Exhibition has opened to the public in Beijing’s iconic Bird’s Nest Culture Centre and Casa Buonarroti Museum. The travelling exhibition is made up of 105 items of the classical artist’s achievements in drawing, sculpture, poetry and fresco. Till October 10, n-s.cn 34

Travel back in time and step aboard one of the world’s most famous ships. Titanicdance tells a gripping love story on the great ship as it makes its maiden voyage across the Atlantic. This tale is enacted by a cast of 24 of the world’s top Irish dancers and six of Ireland’s leading musicians, who will take to BEC Theatre’s stage. October 5-8, titanicdance.com

Red hot A tale of love and passion, Spanish choreographer Manolo Marin will bring his take on Carmen to Beijing’s Tianqiao Theatre. The stage classic follows the love story of a choreographer that falls for one of his dancers.

The flamenco side of the performance is true to its traditional Spanish roots that date all the way back to the 1700s, so you can expect an authentic show of Spanish culture.

October 3-6, damai.cn

TA K E O F F

Shanghai MUST SEE

Centre stage Bird’s-eye view

Based on Mel Brooks’ much-loved Academy Award-winning movie, The Producers is a hilarious musical comedy that has won a record-breaking 12 Tony Awards and three Olivier Awards. The story follows a string of flops as New York producer Max Bialystock recruits timid accountant Leo Bloom to help him pull off Broadway’s greatest scam.

November 1-12, 247tickets.com

Having started out with a sound that was often seen as a hybrid of Carsick Cars and Hedgehog, native Beijing band, Birdstriking, have gone on to hone their material and establish themselves as one of the capital’s leading acts in their own right.

The trio will be travelling south and performing at one of Shanghai’s oldest underground music venues, Yuyintang.

November 10.

Hold court After a stellar win at Wimbledon and in great form, Roger Federer has announced his return to the Shanghai Rolex Masters in 2017. The event will be packed with the world’s very best tennis players who will descend on Shanghai’s Qizhong Forest Sports City Arena. October 7-15, shanghairolexmasters.com

Flutters of the heart

Inspired by Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, this is the tale of two teen gangs, the Sharks and the Jets, as they battle for control of their New York neighbourhood. West Side Story is a wonderful tale that is widely regarded as one of the greatest musicals of all time and will be coming to the Shanghai Culture Square. November 23, 247tickets.com 36

Image: Getty Images

Cult classic

An original production by the Shanghai Ballet, The Butterfly Lovers follows the tale of a woman disguised as a boy who falls in love with a man she can never have. It’s the stuff great Shakespearian tragedies are made of and will have you wrapped up in the romance. The tale of love and woe will be performed at the Shanghai International Dance Centre Theatre.

October 31 – November 1, damai.cn

THE LEAVES COLLECTION AUSTRALIA • SYDNEY • MELBOURNE • MELBOURNE CROWN • ADELAIDE • PERTH • BRISBANE • HOBART • SORRENTO • MORNINGTON BALLARAT • GEELONG • MOSMAN • CASTLE HILL • COFFS HARBOUR • NEW ZEALAND • AUCKLAND • CHRISTCHURCH • NELSON VISIT WWW.OLELYNGGAARD.COM OR PHONE 1800 765 336 FOR STORE LOCATIONS

TA K E O F F

Wuhan

1 East Lake

IN EIGHT STOPS

Set on the banks of the Yangtze River, the Hubei province capital makes the most of its ideal location with green parks and botanical gardens sprawled throughout

Probably the most picturesque part of the city, East Lake draws around one million tourists a year. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon stroll to escape the city heat.

You’ll also be able to spot locals practising tai chi or Chinese calligraphy.

2 Yellow Crane Tower The first Yellow Crane Tower was originally constructed in AD 223 and has since existed in various forms. Today’s iteration was built in 1981 and sits on Snake Hill, one kilometre away from the original site.

3 Hubei Provincial Museum Much of China’s history is on display here. The centre piece of the museum is the Tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng, which includes one of the world’s largest musical instruments, a remarkable five-tonne set of 65 double-tone bronze bells.

4 Wuhan Botanical Garden Just off East Lake – you could cover both in one trip – the garden boasts a colourful collection of over 4,000 species of flora.

Within are 16 specialty gardens including the Kiwifruit Garden, which contains 70 per cent of the world’s kiwifruit species.

5 South Lake A smaller lakeside location in the southern suburbs of Wuchang means less tourists and more locals.

6 Butterfly Museum Guiyuan Temple

Some 100,000 specimens of butterfly can be seen at this small, friendly museum on the eastern edge of Moon Lake Park. A must-visit attraction for those travelling with young children, it’ll keep them entertained for hours.

7 Guiyuan Temple This 350-year-old Buddhist temple houses more than 500 statues of enlightened disciples in the Hall of Arhats. Completed in 1891 after being nine years in the making, it remains in pristine condition.

8 Changchun Temple

Yellow Crane Tower

38

Guiyuan Temple

This restored Taoist temple will charm you.

It dates back to the Han dynasty and is one of the best-known Taoist monuments in the country, meaning people come from near and far to visit the religious site.

HANDCRAFTED AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY

琳尼诗是西澳高级首饰订制商以精巧的设计与手工而驰名,使用澳大利亚南海珍珠、 黄金和上等的钻石精心手工制作,除此之外琳尼诗有专业的团队为您选购罕见珍贵的阿盖尔 粉钻,欢迎您莅临我们的精品店观澜丰富的首饰系列。

+61 8 9382 4077 LINNEYS.COM.AU SUBIACO I CROWN PERTH

TA K E O F F

悉尼 Sydney 不容错过 DON’T MISS

劳燕分飞

Fly away

One of the world’s most famous love stories is back in Sydney again.

Madama Butterfly follows the story of a young Japanese geisha who falls head over heels in love with her new American husband, who then disappears for three years. October 24 – November 4, opera.org.au

艺术大师

Masters of art

世界上 最 著名的 爱 情 故 事之一《 蝴 蝶 夫 人》（MADAMA BUT TERFLY）将再次回 归悉尼。它讲述了一个年轻日本艺妓与婚 后消失了3年的美国丈夫之间令人神魂颠 倒的爱情故事。活动日期：10月24日至11 月4日。

Part of Sydney International Art Series, Rembrandt and the Dutch Golden Age will exhibit at the AGNSW and Pipilotti Rist – Sip My Ocean at the MCA. November 1 – February 18, artpass.com.au

现代经典

作为悉尼国际艺术系列活动 的一部分， 《伦勃朗与荷兰黄 金时代》将在新南威尔士州美 术馆展出，而《皮皮洛蒂·瑞 斯特：啜饮我的海洋》也将在 当代艺术博物馆精彩呈现。活 动日期：11月1日至2月18日。

Modern classic

Be swept up into a world of romance and fairytale charm with the Australian Ballet’s Sleeping Beauty.

The much-loved lavish production returns to the Sydney Opera House for a special encore season.

November 11-25, australianballet.com.au 澳大利亚芭蕾舞团（AUSTRALIAN BALLET）的《睡美 人》（SLEEPING BEAUTY）将为您呈现一个浪漫的、充 满童话魅力的世界。这个有着豪华制作阵容的芭蕾舞 剧深受观众喜爱，将在悉尼歌剧院（SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE）特别加演。活动日期：11月11日至25日。

夜间美食 Night cap

全面升级

Meriton magic

Australia’s largest hotel room owner is getting an upgrade. The evolution takes Meriton Serviced Apartments into its new phase as Meriton Suites, along with a new, easy-to-use website. With over 4,465 suites over 17 (soon to be 21) thriving locations across Sydney, Brisbane and the Gold Coast, you’ll always find a room at Meriton. meritonsuites.com.au 在悉尼、布里斯班和黄金海岸17个（即将是21个）地点 拥有4,465间套房的MERITON酒店集团即将进行全面升 级，由MERITON SERVICED APARTMENTS变为MERITON SUITES，更推出全新网站。 40

The Night Noodle Markets are a highlight of Good Food Month in Sydney, with over 40 food stalls from the city’s best restaurants drawing massive crowds. October, goodfoodmonth.com 对于很多人来说，美味面食 夜市是悉尼美食月（GOOD FOOD MONTH）的一大亮 点。来自悉尼最好的一些餐 厅的40余个美食摊位每年都 会吸引大量游客到访。活动 日期：10月。

TA K E O F F

墨尔本 Melbourne 舞台风采 ON STAGE

周年铂金展览

Image: Loomis Dean/The LIFE Picture Collection/Licensed by Getty Images

Platinum years Celebrating the 70th anniversary of Christian Dior, one of the world’s most prestigious couture houses, the National Gallery of Victoria presents House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture. Exclusive to Melbourne, over 140 garments designed by Christian Dior Couture are on display. Till November 7, ngv.vic.gov.au 为庆祝世界上最负盛名的时装品牌之一迪奥 之家（HOUSE OF DIOR）成立70周年，维多 利亚国家美术馆（NATIONAL GALLERY FOR VICTORIA）将为您精彩呈献《迪奥之家：高 级定制70年》 （HOUSE OF DIOR：SEVENTY YEARS OF HAUTE COUTURE）展览。展览将 于墨尔本独家呈献，展示逾140件来自克里斯 汀·迪奥（CHRISTIAN DIOR）时装设计的服 装。展览日期至11月7日。

信马由缰

Hold your horses

幕后英雄

Behind the scenes

Journey into the magical world of Aardman, the acclaimed studio behind the endearing childhood classics Wallace & Gromit at Wallace & Gromit and Friends: The Magic of Aardman. Till October 29, acmi.net.au 让 我 们 通 过《 W A L L A C E&G ROMIT AND FRIENDS: THE MAGIC OF A ARDMAN》展览一起走 进阿德曼的神奇世界吧。展 览日期至10月29日。

这 是 一项 足以让 整个澳 大利亚停 摆 的赛 事。在墨尔 本，阿 联酋 航 空 墨尔 本 杯 赛 马 锦 标 赛（E M I R AT E S MELBOURNE CUP）就是十一月的代名词。各色纯种 马在3,200米长的赛道角逐，堪称澳大利亚各项赛马的 巅峰赛事，获胜者可以拿到620万澳元的奖金。活动日 期：11月7日。

梦游仙境

Little wonder

Follow Alice through the looking glass into a world of colour, fun and fantasy. The Australian Ballet’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland perfectly captures Lewis Carroll’s whimsical story.

Till September 30, australianballet.com.au 跟随爱丽丝进入镜子中那个充满色彩、乐趣和幻想的 世界。澳大利亚芭蕾舞剧《爱丽丝梦游仙境》将为您完 美呈现路易斯·卡罗尔（LEWIS CARROLL）的离奇故 事。演出日期至9月30日。 42

Image: Johan Persson

It’s the race that stops the nation, and the Emirates Melbourne Cup is synonymous with November in Melbourne. The 3,200 metre thoroughbred race is the pinnacle of the Australian race calendar, with the winner taking home $6.2 million in prize money.

November 7, flemington.com.au

舞台经典

Stage success

Broadway musical The Book of Mormon, from South Park creators Trey Parker and Matt Stone, will be in Melbourne.

Till October 27, bookofmormonmusical. com.au 由SOUTH PARK创作者特雷· 帕克（TREY PARKER）和马 特·斯通（MATT STONE）创 作的百老汇音乐剧《摩门经》 （THE BOOK OF MORMON） 将在墨尔本上演。演出日期 至10月27日。

Hertz澳大利亚租车，尽享9折优惠+800里程奖励

ENJOY 10% OFF + EARN 800 MILES. when you rent with Hertz in Australia*

WITH FAST AND EASY SERVICE, A MODERN FLEET AND COMPETITIVE PRICES, YOU CAN TRUST HERTZ WITH YOUR NEXT JOURNEY. To take advantage of this offer, please quote the relevant Hertz discount CDP# when making your booking: • Air China 1445402 • China Eastern Airlines 1469575 • China Southern Airlines 1503704 AND • Your airline Frequent Flyer program ID# Hertz locations in Australia accept China Driver’s Licenses when accompanied with an English translation. Please visit www.hertz.cn or follow Hertz China Wechat (ID: hertzguojizuche) to get an English translation of your China Driver’s License for FREE! Reservations & Enquiries: 400 921 1138 (0086 21 22261700) Website: www.hertz.cn WeChat: hertzguojizuche *Terms & conditions apply: The offer is valid on Hertz Affordable Rates at participating locations in Australia. Valid on selected car groups.

Frequent Flyer points can only be earned on one Frequent Flyer program for each qualified rental. 24 hours reservation in advance is required.

Hertz standard terms and conditions apply. Offer valid until Dec 31 2017.

For more details, please contact Hertz China at 400 921 1138.

预订时，请提供： · 折扣代码(CDP#)： 国航1445402/东航1469575/南航1503704 · 您的航空公司会员卡号(国航“凤凰知音”/东航 “东方万里行”/南航“明珠俱乐部”) Hertz 澳大利亚门店已接受中国驾照，只需同时提供 中国驾照英文翻译件。Hertz免费为客户提供中国驾照 英文翻译。欢迎浏览 www.hertz.cn或关注Hertz官微 (hertzguojizuche)免费进行申请。 预订中心 400 921 1138 (境外客户请拨打0086 21 22261700) 公司官网: www.hertz.cn 官方微信: hertzguojizuche

温馨提示：以上优惠适用于参加活动的 Hertz澳大利亚门店和Hertz超值优惠价格； 适用于多数车组；每次有效租车只能累积一个航空公司的里程；需提前24小时 预订；适用于Hertz标准的条款和条件；优惠有效期至2017年12月31日; 更多细则，详询Hertz中国预订中心.

TA K E O F F

悉尼十佳早午餐

Sydney’s 10 best brunches Hotel Centennial

Altitude, Shangri-La Hotel

Bistrot Gavroche

Whether it’s soy chai lattes, smashed avocado or deconstructed French toast, Sydney’s brunch scene knows no bounds. The city’s best chefs, and best restaurants, are transforming the humble breakfast into a decadent, all-day affair 无论是印度香料豆奶茶、鳄梨酱配烤面 包，或是法式吐司，悉尼的早午餐业无 所不有。悉尼最好的主厨、最棒的餐厅 正逐渐把平平无奇的早餐变成全天候 美食。 44

keep the kitchen very busy, but the standout dish is a decadent Croque Madame. hotelcentennial.com.au

#1 Hotel Centennial, Woollahra The Hotel Centennial, in Sydney’s eastern suburbs, is technically a public house, but its dining room couldn’t be further from a stereotypical Aussie pub. Light and bright, with cutting-edge contemporary art lining the walls and sleek leather seating, it’s casual fine dining. Executive Chef Justin North’s credentials in the kitchen certainly precede him, and the menu confirms that. A two-course brunch with unlimited strawberry and basil mimosas and dishes such as king trout sashimi breakfast bowls

HOTEL CENTENNIAL， 沃拉拉（WOOLLAHRA） HOTEL CENTENNIAL位于悉尼的东郊，严格 说来是一间酒馆，但它的餐厅远非一间典型 的澳大利亚酒吧所能相比。餐厅拥有明亮的 灯光、用最前沿的当代艺术来装饰墙壁，还 有时尚的真皮座椅，营造出休闲的精致餐饮 氛围并折射出东郊生活的缩影。行政主厨贾 斯汀·诺斯（JUSTIN NORTH）在餐饮界的资 历声名远播，他所设计的菜单便是最好的证 明。两道菜的早午餐搭配无限供应的草莓罗 勒含羞草鸡尾酒，加以国王鳟鱼刺身早餐碗 和烟熏培根奶油蛋卷三明治等菜肴，使得厨 房异常繁忙，但最引人注目的菜肴还是让人 沉醉其中的、上面配有一枚荷包蛋的库克太 太三明治（CROQUE MADAME）。

TA K E O F F

#4 The Grounds in the City, Sydney CBD

#2 Bistrot Gavroche, Chippendale

#3 Altitude, Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney CBD

The French may grab a baguette and au cafe on the run, but this restaurant in trendy Chippendale is changing the way Australians think about French food. Housed in an old rum warehouse in the Kensington Street precinct, the restaurant’s antique banquettes, delicate wall mosaics and Art Deco prints are as authentic as the food. The extravagant brunch menu has all the classics – escargots de Bourgogne, house-smoked salmon tartare, Gruyere cheese-filled omelettes, croquet madame and croquet monsieur sandwiches; even traditional French roasts. Settle in with bottomless sparkling rose between 10:30am and 3pm. bistrotgavroche.com.au

Start your day with one of the best views in town at the Shangri-La hotel’s five star brunch. The hotel’s famous Altitude restaurant towers above Circular Quay, so you can sip sparkling wine while looking straight down at the Opera House. Brunch includes a decadent buffet of cured meats, cheeses and local seafood, followed by sharing plates like homemade muesli, bite-sized Eggs Benedict and smoked salmon, along with an a la carte menu. Served from 11.30am, the brunch is a generous feast for all your senses. There’s free flowing Mimosas and Bellinis, and options to upgrade to bottomless sparkling wine and champagne. shangri-la.com/sydney

BISTROT GAVROCHE， 齐本德尔（CHIPPENDALE） 法国人可能会在奔波中抓起一根法式面包 和一杯咖啡，但位于时尚的齐本德尔的这间 餐厅正在改变澳大利亚人对于法国美食的看 法。漫步于BISTROT GAVROCHE之中，就 好像沿着巴黎的小巷走进了一间著名的古老 啤酒店。餐厅位于肯辛顿街（KENSINGTON STREET）一间古老的朗姆酒工厂之中，其古 董沙发、精美的墙壁镶嵌图案和装饰艺术品 与美食一样原汁原味。奢华的早午餐菜单囊 括了所有经典菜肴——勃艮第蜗牛、烟熏三 文鱼鞑靼、格鲁耶尔芝士煎蛋卷、库克太太 和库克先生三明治，甚至还有传统的法国烤 肉。上午10:30至下午3:00还会无限量供应玫 瑰香槟。

ALTITUDE， 香格里拉酒店（SHANGRI-LA） 在香格里拉酒店五星级的早午餐中欣赏绝佳 的城市景观，开启您的一天吧。酒店著名的 ALTITUDE餐厅高耸于环形码头（CIRCULAR QUAY）之上，您可以一边啜饮起泡酒，一边 俯瞰悉尼歌剧院（OPERA HOUSE）。早午餐 为您供应令人沉醉的自助餐，包括腌肉、奶酪 和当地海鲜，并为您供应可供多人分享的自 制穆兹利、一口量的火腿蛋松饼、烟熏三文 鱼以及点菜菜单。早午餐从上午11:30开始供 应，是一场能够满足您所有感官享受的盛宴。 餐厅还免费供应含羞草百灵尼鸡尾酒，并且 可以升级为不限量的起泡酒和香槟。这里已 经成为悉尼备受推崇的热门餐厅，早午餐很 快就会预订一空，请确保提前预订。

The sprawling gardens, cafes, markets and farmyard animals of The Grounds of Alexandria are an oasis in what was once an industrial complex. Now, in the heart of Sydney, opposite Town Hall, The Grounds in the City is the hottest spot to spend your morning in the CBD. You’ll see its signature green coffee cups in the hands of city workers all over town, but it’s worth the wait to sit inside for the full experience.

From hand-stained wooden panelling and pressed metal ceilings to stained glass windows, it’s all in the details when it comes to the design – but the same goes for the food. The Tea Lady roams the room with her cart of sweets, offering plates of freshly baked pastries, layered cakes and towering tarts that are too hard to resist, while the kitchen whips up fresh crumpets, brekky bowls and ginger poached chicken. thegroundscity.com.au THE GROUNDS IN THE CITY， 悉尼中央商务区 无限蔓延的花园、咖啡馆、餐厅、市场和农 场动物，将曾经的工业区THE GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA打造为一个真正的宜人 之 地 。其 成 功 的 绝 佳 代 表 便 是 新 近 开业 的餐厅。THE GROUNDS IN THE CITY位于 悉尼中央商务区的核心地带，正对着市政 厅（TOWN HALL），是您度过上午时光的热 门之选。茶水服务员推着甜品车穿梭于餐厅 中，为您奉上一盘盘新鲜出炉的糕点、夹心蛋 糕和高高的馅饼，让人无法抵抗美食的诱惑， 而厨房里则摆放着新鲜的面包、酸奶烤薄饼、 早餐碗和姜汁鸡。 The Grounds in the City

45

TA K E O F F

#5 Efendy, Balmain Turkish chef Somer Sivrioglu has singlehandedly changed the way Sydneysiders think of Turkish cuisine. His restaurant Efendy, in Sydney’s trendy harbourside suburb of Balmain, brought baked eggs to brunch in a very big way. These days, the restaurant’s brunch menu is a “Van Breakfast Feast”, a family style, allinclusive meal filled with more than 30 Turkish delicacies. Influenced by Van, a Turkish city renowned for its cheeses and honey, but also its plethora of breakfast eateries, the Efendy brunch sees your table laden with sweet and savoury specialties – from Anatolian cheeses and housemade jams to sujuk and spicy scrambled eggs. efendy.com.au EFENDY，巴尔曼（BALMAIN） 土耳其主厨萨默·思夫里奥格鲁（SOMER SIVRIOGLU）凭借一己之力改变了悉尼人对 土耳其美食的看法。他的餐厅EFENDY位于悉 尼时尚的海滨郊区巴尔曼，大规模地将烤鸡 蛋纳入早午餐之中。最近，餐厅的早午餐菜单 主打“凡城（VAN）早餐盛宴”，这是一种家 庭式的用餐方式，为您提供30余种土耳其的 美味佳肴。凡城是一座因奶酪和蜂蜜还有其 不计其数的早餐餐厅而闻名 的土耳其城市， 受其影响，EFENDY的早午餐呈现出的是满 满一餐桌的甜味和咸味的特色菜——从安纳 托利亚奶酪和手工制作的果酱到香肠配辣味 炒蛋，无所不有。 46

TA K E O F F

“Tables on the deck look straight out at the sparkling blue beyond, the perfect spot for a brunch breeze” #6 The Boathouse, Palm Beach

THE BOATHOUSE， 棕榈海滩（PALM BEACH） THE BOATHOUSE餐厅位于车站海滩码头 Al fresco beachside dining at its best, （STATION BEACH WHARF），地理位置优越， The Boathouse makes the most of its 可为您打造绝佳的户外海滨美食体验。位于 spot on the edge of Station Beach 甲板之上的餐桌可以俯瞰远处波光粼粼的蔚 Wharf. Tables out on the deck look 蓝大海，是在海风中享受早午餐的完美场所。 straight out at the sparkling blue beyond, 当地人会告诉您这是一种专属于北部海滩 the perfect spot for a brunch blessed （NORTHERN BEACHES）的生活方式，集慵 with sea breezes. Locals will tell you 懒和奢华于一体。菜单也是如此，看似漫不 the Northern Beaches are all about a 经心的美食呈现出众多天赋。产自当地鲸鱼 lifestyle – it’s laid back and luxurious 海滩（WHALE BEACH）的穆兹利盛满了新 all in one. The same goes for the menu. 鲜水果和酸奶，而“绿鸡蛋与火腿” （GREEN Locally produced Whale Beach Muesli EGGS AND HAM）则赋予了水煮蛋和火腿 is studded with fresh and poached fruits 新的活力，新鲜出炉的香蕉面包搭配一汤匙 and yoghurt, while the Green Eggs 的马斯卡邦芝士，更显美味。 and Ham brings poached eggs and ham to life, and freshly baked banana #7 Darlo Country Club, bread comes with a sizeable scoop of Darlinghurst mascarpone. theboathousepb.com.au Clockwise from top left: Efendy; Darlo Country Club; Bills; The Boathouse

Brunch Club at the Darlo Country Club is serious business. The six-course menu is served with Bellinis, Chandon sparkling wine, or even unlimited Moet & Chandon if you want to go all out. It’s a decadent start to the day. The menu is designed for sharing, so sip champagne while snacking on salmon gravlax, freshly baked bagels, and chicken Waldorf salad. The space itself exudes a Miami-meets-Hamptons vibe, with marble table tops, long leather banquette seating, a ship rope feature wall and beautiful collections of leafy plants. darlocountryclub.com.au DARLO COUNTRY CLUB， 达令赫斯特（DARLINGHURST） DARLO COUNTRY CLUB的早午餐俱乐部 （BRUNCH CLUB）堪称一绝。6道菜的菜单搭 配贝里尼鸡尾酒、酩悦起泡酒，如果您想竭 尽全力品尝美酒，甚至还会为您提供不限量 的酩悦香槟。您将在令人沉醉的氛围中开启 一天的生活，这里很受团体欢迎，他们会在这 里举行特殊的庆祝活动或者举办悠长而奢华 的聚会。菜单为分享式菜单，您可以在啜饮 香槟的同时，品尝渍鲑鱼片、新鲜出炉的面 包圈和沃尔多夫鸡肉沙拉。这个空间本身就 流露着迈阿密汉普顿会议的氛围，拥有大理 石桌面、长皮革座椅、装饰着船绳的墙壁和 美丽的绿叶植物。

#8 Bills Darlinghurst When Bills opened more than 20 years ago, it marked the start of a new Sydney dining scene. The scrambled eggs were legendary, the ricotta hotcakes are still the stuff of sweet dreams, and the large, communal tables made you feel like you were sitting inside a very stylish friend’s kitchen. Celebrity chef Bill Granger now has restaurants all over the world, and several in Sydney, but a trip to his first restaurant is akin to a pilgrimage for diehard fans. Fresh from a revamp earlier this year, the small, split-level space is flooded with light, with sun streaming down on the big table that’s usually piled with freshly baked muffins, vases of flowers and piles of trendy coffee books.

BILLS，达令赫斯特（DARLINGHURST） BILLS开业至今已有20余年，开业之初，它 便开启了悉尼餐饮业的新篇章。餐厅的炒 蛋和乳清干酪烤饼家喻户晓，而大型的公 共餐桌让您感觉仿佛置身于朋友的时尚厨 房之中。尽管明星主厨比尔·葛伦格（BILL GRANGER）现在已经在世界各地开设了餐 厅，并且在悉尼也开设了很多BILLS的分店，但 是去其开设的第一间餐厅用餐已经成为铁 杆粉丝的朝圣之旅。今年初，餐厅进行了全 新改造，小小的分层空间充溢着耀眼的光芒， 巨大桌面上堆放着满满的新鲜出炉的松饼、 装满鲜花的花瓶和众多时尚的咖啡书籍。 47

Three Williams

#10 Three Williams, Redfern Inner-city slickers flock to this super chic underground cafe just outside the CBD. With plenty of exposed brick and polished concrete, the pared back space lets the food do all the talking – the all-day menu is absolutely bursting with flavours.

Try The Joe, a milk bun piled high with eggs, bacon, house smoked tomato relish, kewpie mayo and potato scallops, or the maple bacon blini, a big fluffy buckwheat pancake covered in silverbeet, bacon, hollandaise and eggs. The cheeseburger and chips is definitely a crowd pleaser, but the “narnies” – sandwiches made from house-made naan bread and fillings like braised beef brisket and southern fried chicken – also keep the kitchen busy. threewilliamscafe.com

#9 Harrys, Bondi Beach There’s no other brunch spot that quite capture’s Bondi’s mismatch of surfers, hipsters, health fanatics and foodies.

Just as famous for their flower-strewn chia pudding and avocado on toast, as they are for hearty, healthy burgers and decadent pastries, Harry’s is a must-visit when you’re down checking out the beach. The activated nut smoothies and cold pressed juices hit the spot after an early morning walk, while the pulled pork roll is a hearty start to your day exploring the beaches. harrysbondi.com.au

Images: Jessica Belnik, Petrina Tinslay

HARRY’S，邦迪（BONDI） 再没有其他早午餐地点可以完美协调邦迪的 冲浪者、时尚人士、健康狂热者和美食家的不 同口味了。正如其著名的撒满鲜花的鼠尾草 布丁和鳄梨配烤面包一样，HARRY’S因丰盛 又健康的汉堡和令人沉醉的甜点而著名，是 您畅游海滩的必到之处。清晨散步后，您可 以到餐厅品尝一杯活性坚果思慕雪和冷榨果 汁，并且用手撕猪肉卷开启您美好的海滩探 索之旅。

Harrys at Bondi Beach

THREE WILLIAMS，雷德芬（REDFERN） 这间位于中央商务区外缘的超级时尚地 下咖啡馆，拥有大量裸露的砖墙和抛光的 混凝土，与之匹配的厨房则让美食为自己 代言，全天候的菜单绝对能够炸裂您的味 蕾。您可以尝试一下THE JOE，一款装满 鸡蛋、培根、自制烟熏番茄酱、美乃滋和 马铃薯扇贝的牛奶面包；或枫糖培根薄饼， 一款搭配银甜菜、培根、荷兰酸辣酱和鸡 蛋的荞麦烤薄饼。芝士汉堡和薯条绝对会 大受欢迎，但是“NARNIES”，一款由手工 馕饼和炖牛腩和南方炸鸡等馅料制成的 三明治，也是这家餐厅的人气单品。除了 周末会排起长队之外，这里还有外卖菜单 可以缓解拥挤的人群，绝对值得等待。

48

Exclusive properties for sale, topical editorial and market intelligence of interest to all Australian and Asian property investors.

Australia’s Leading Commercial Property Magazine

Outstanding selection of properties for sale across Australia

The Rise of Build-to-Rent Investments in Australia

An Insight into Gold Coast’s Commercial Property Market

KnightFrank.com.au/ExclusiveView

KnightFrank.com.au

TA K E O F F

入住酒店

Hotel check-in

自然奢华

Nature stop Anantara is bringing its organic take on luxury to one of China’s greenest cities

安纳塔拉为中国绿化率最高的城市 带来绿色奢华体验。 Nestled in south-west China’s enchanting Forest City, Anantara Guiyang Resort is a luxury oasis surrounded by pristine fairways and majestic mountain scenery; and just a 15-minute drive from Guiyang Longdongbao International Airport, accessing paradise has never been easier. The opening of the 218-room location marks the first international resort to open in the Guizhou province capital, with room balconies overlooking the gardens and the three-bedroom pool villas, the creme de la creme of accommodations, featuring plunge pools, sun decks, a gym and massage room. The food and beverage options haven’t been overlooked, either; Fanjing is the all-day dining restaurant; Siam the signature Thai restaurant; and The Ancient Town showcases local delicacies from Guizhou plus Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine. Drinks? The Dragon Palace Bar is situated by the indoor pool, while Azalea Bar is an outdoor hangout. From $526, guiyang.anantara.com 50

贵阳安纳 塔 拉 度假 酒店位于中国西南迷 人的森林 城市——贵阳，宛如一个被原始草地和壮丽山景环 抱的奢华绿洲。酒店距离贵阳龙洞堡国际机场仅15 分钟车 程，堪称人间天堂。这座有着218间客房的 五星级 度假 酒店是贵州省会贵阳 的首家国际度假 酒店。客房的阳台可以俯瞰花园，三卧泳池别墅令 人印象深刻，这里有着颇具特色的泳池、日光浴台、 健身房和按摩室，为您打造完美精品住宿体 验。这 里的餐饮同样不容错过，有多种风味可选：梵净国 际美食厅为全天候服务的餐厅，同时供应西餐和亚 洲菜；暹罗餐厅则是典型的泰餐厅；古镇中餐厅则 供应来自贵州当地的美食以及川菜和粤菜。至于饮 品，您可以到专属于超大室内泳池的龙宫和拥有室 外庭院的杜鹃吧体验一番。价格526澳元起 。 。

悉尼市中心的全新住宿体验！

美利通套房酒店-皮特街

耗资数百万澳元 重新装修 所有套房的家具风格 和装潢色调焕然一新

全新升级：

超大舒适睡枕 顶级豪华床垫 香浓维多利亚咖啡 高速无线网络不限流量

精 益求精

我们的套房一向以宽敞的空间 和超高的性价比著称。 详情敬请咨询澳大利亚预订专线 1800 214 822，或访问官方网站 meritonsuites.com.au

TA K E O F F

新菜馆

Restaurant news

西部之最

Best of the west Perth’s premier accommodation is plating up a culinary journey to introduce guests to fresh Indigenous produce Without a doubt, COMO The Treasury is the jewel in Perth’s crown – and it’s not just the plush, opulent suites that put it on top. Wildflower, the hotel’s awardwinning restaurant, is headed by Executive Chef Jed Gerrard, who has been voted Australia’s best young chef on multiple occasions. Now he intends on introducing hotel guests to the freshest Indigenous produce, traditionally signified by the blooming of Western Australia’s native wildflowers. The Wildflower Experience will include a guided indigenous heritage tour to showcase different species of wildflower, five-course tasting menu paired with sommelier’s selection of fine wines, and a two-night stay.

Available till November 30, from $1,950, comohotels.com

52

珀斯首屈一指的酒店正在打 造一场以本土新鲜食材为中 心的美食之旅。 毫无疑问，COMO THE TREASURY堪 称珀斯的皇冠之珠，而让其登峰造极 的不只是奢华舒适的套房。酒店屡获 殊荣的餐厅WILDFLOWER由行政主 厨杰德·杰拉德（JED GERRARD）执 掌，他曾多次被选为澳大利亚最佳年 轻主厨。如今，他受西澳大利亚州绚 烂绽放的本土野生花卉的启发，计划 为来到酒店的宾客奉上最新鲜的本土 食材。WILDFLOWER EXPERIENCE 体验套餐包含本土文化遗产之旅，由 向导为您展示不同品种的野生花卉， 还包括5道菜的赏味菜单和侍酒师精 选的美酒佳酿以及2晚住宿。体验日 期至11月30日，1,950澳元起。

德国香肠

海鲜炒饭

希腊烤肉

越南粉

潘华

老饕在澳

中

国的老饕遍布世界各地，这些贪吃 善吃的吃货，到了澳大利亚也一样， 到处寻吃问餐，忙个不亦乐乎。这里 向这些老饕提供一些在澳大利亚寻觅到饕餮 佳肴的建议和途经，以共同分享。 作为一个年轻的移民国家，澳人传统上以 英格兰、爱尔兰的饮食为主，50年代后大量欧 洲移民的涌入，带来了饮食文化的多样化，意 大利、希腊、法国、西班牙、土耳其、阿拉伯 等各国菜肴和食品纷纷进入澳大利亚饮食业， 改变了澳人的饮食结构。 70年代后，众多的越南移民来到澳大利亚， 越南菜也悄悄流行起来，其中的特别牛肉粉, 几乎成了越南食品的象征。然而没过多久越南 风味被泰国菜所取代，泰国餐馆迅速遍及各个 城区。但在澳大利亚饮食文化发展过程中，中 餐始终是贯穿其中的红线，160多年来一直在 54

体型巨大，足有脸盆大小。呈红黑色，蟹肉结实， 多膏多肉，爽口无比。一般可以用姜葱炒或用来 煲粥，还有一种简单的做法，把整只蟹切成几大 快，直接用清水煮，蟹肉的鲜美简直无法形容， 每一口都是那么充实！再喝点汤，汤水很清， 和浑厚的蟹肉搭配相得益彰。 关于澳大利亚的禽畜类，据说是200 年前由菲利普船长从英国运来了少量 的牛和羊繁殖的。由于澳大利亚得 天独厚的环境，畜牧业获得飞速的 发展，时至今日，您如果在澳大利 亚没有亲口品尝牛羊肉，那简直 就等于没有来过澳大利亚。 THE DUTCHESS是墨尔本一 比萨 家高档牛排馆，坐落于圣保罗 大教堂旁，客人们坐在窗边便 可尽赏墨尔本的街头景致。餐 厅精美的鸡尾酒值得一试，这 里的牛排让人印象深刻，鲜嫩 软滑，香味浓郁。点一份草饲 牛排TOMAHAWK，会让您胃 窦大开。墨尔本的ROCKPOOL 泰国炒面 BAR AND GRILL餐厅，则以精 炸鱼薯条 致的烤牛排而闻名。餐厅最引以 为傲的是BLACKMORE9+顶级和 牛。烹制时，水份从牛肉的肌肉组织 里蒸发而出，使得原本紧绷的肉质变 得软嫩多汁，同时木火炉的烤制方式 也令牛排滋味更醇厚。 悉尼也有不少吃牛排的好去处，位 于邦迪海滩的ICEBERGS是悉尼数一数二的 酒吧餐厅，这里的牛排非常有特色，甚至可以品 尝到顶级的澳大利亚和牛。餐厅里500G眼肉排 非常值得品尝，采用喂养到150天的新鲜小牛眼 肉，浇上特制的英式芥末蘸料，淋上一些柠檬汁， 再配上新鲜蔬菜沙拉，您能拒绝这样的美味吗？ 鳄鱼、袋鼠、野猪、负鼠、鸸鹋等澳大利亚独 有的野味。袋鼠肉是其中最常见的，鲜嫩可口， 营养丰富，富含蛋白质、铁、锌等元素，胆固醇 和脂肪的含量低，是理想的健康食物。其中精 细质感、柔软可口的小袋鼠肉，已经成为澳大利 稳健地发展。您可以在澳大利亚任何一个小城 亚比较时尚的美味。墨尔本的意大利餐厅SARTI 镇里找到中餐馆。在唐人街，中餐馆和酒楼更是 就常常用小袋鼠肉配奶油白芦笋、金合欢籽油 鳞次栉比。 和野生蓝莓做成令人难忘的美食。 一般而言，澳大利亚的美食可以分为几大类： 布里斯班WEST END区的TUKKA野味饭店， 海鲜类、禽畜类、野味类以及多元文化饮食类。 店不大但很有特点，装潢是那种乡村风格，没有 澳大利亚四周环海，海产品极其丰富，其中龙虾 一点华丽，却有几分凝重，灯光昏暗，很小资。餐 是最有代表性的海鲜之一。澳大利亚各州都能 厅供应鳄鱼肉，负鼠肉，袋鼠肉和鸸鹋肉。 吃到龙虾，南澳石灰岩海岸金斯顿是吃龙虾的 具有多元文化特色的佳肴是老饕们在澳大利 天堂，不仅盛产龙虾，甚至连城市地标都是大龙 亚的另一不可或缺的选项。美国纽约时报的记 虾雕塑，龙虾餐馆遍地，各种做法都有，随意挑 者专程拜访了一家位于维州OAKLEIGH区的希 一家，都能让您满意而归。澳大利亚海鲜中的泥 腊美食小店KALIMERA SOUVLAKI。赞誉这家 蟹也相当不错，個頭大，肉質細密肥腴，美味可 店的猪肉卷是全球最好吃的。里面的肉有很浓 口，在昆士兰的凯恩斯和西澳的丹比爾半島都 烈的薄荷香味，又带着一股柠檬的酸味，表面 能找到专门烹调泥蟹的餐馆。喜欢吃鲍鱼的，可 撒有辣椒粉，吃起来是种鲜咸的烤肉焦香，简直 以试试澳大利亚的鮑魚刺身，那是完全自然的 吃到死都不会腻。 风味，非常鮮甜。 类似的多元文化佳肴数不胜数，激励着老饕 澳大利亚的皇帝蟹产于塔斯马尼亚巴斯海峡， 们的眼球和味蕾。

Illustration: Millie Jia

TA K E O F F

SYDNEY

the best of

BARANGA 布朗格鲁美食之最

56

SYDNEY

From fried chicken to fine dining, Sydney’s newest food precinct is a curated collection of the best of the best.

Lisa Perkovic looks at Barangaroo’s burgeoning food scene 从炸鸡到精致美食，悉尼最新的美食区域为您汇聚了最佳美食 中的佼佼者。丽莎·佩尔科维奇（Lisa Perkovic）为您介绍布朗 格鲁迅速发展的美食业。

F

ROO

ifth Avenue, the Bund, the Champs Elysees, Rodeo Drive, Jumeriah, Kowloon. Those are just a few places around the world where the best of the best in fashion, art and food converge. Often, these destinations emerged slowly – the opening of a high-end fashion house, the arrival of a celebrity chef and his kitchen, a luxury hotel breaking ground on a new property. But rarely is there a place where, from its very inception, each and every element has been hand-picked to be perfection.

Then along came Barangaroo.

Tucked behind Sydney’s CBD, for a long time Barangaroo was nothing more than a series of barren concrete wharves, used solely by lunchtime joggers. That has all changed. The reclaiming of Sydney’s western harbourfront has been a full-blown transformation.

Today, the Streets of Barangaroo, as the precinct’s prime waterfront region is known, are home to more than 67 retailers, with more to arrive over the coming months.

The city’s top bank, law firms and accounting companies have been lured to Barangaroo’s sleek highrises, bringing with them a demand for long lunches, private dining rooms and executive-level fine dining.

The country’s top chefs, trendiest bakeries and best producers have moved in, filling its “streets” with wine bars, restaurants and providores, alongside boutiques from high fashion labels and bespoke artisans. >

第

五大道（Fifth Avenue）、外滩、香榭丽舍大街 （Champs Elysees）、罗迪欧大道（Rodeo Drive）、卓美亚（Jumeriah）、九龙，这些是 全世界其中的几个地方将最顶级的时尚、艺术 和美食融于一处。通常，这些区域的发展比较缓慢——首先 会开设一间高档时装店，然后知名主厨会在此开设餐厅，最 后一间奢华酒店会在一栋全新建筑中破土而出。但是很少 有一个地方从创立之初便精心挑选每个元素，力求完美。布 朗格鲁就这样应运而生。 布朗格鲁毗邻悉尼中央商务区，一直以来默默无闻，是 一片荒芜的混凝土码头，只有在午餐时间才有几个人经过此 地。如今，一切都已改变，对悉尼西部港湾的开拓已经全面 转型，作为该区域主要滨水区的布朗格鲁大道（Streets of Barangaroo）已经拥有超过67间零售商，未来几个月，还 将有更多的商铺入住于此。 > 57

SYDNEY

FIRST IN, BEST DRESSED

One of the first venues to open on Barangaroo’s prime waterfront promenade was Anason. Well-known Turkish chef Somer Sivrioglu’s second Sydney venue is an ode to Anatolian summer cuisine; its bright-blue tiled tables and checkered wicker chairs are the setting for plenty of long lunches but also early evenings of meze before dinner. As the sun sets on the waterfront, Anason’s terrace seating is perfect for pre-dinner nibbles and Turkish wine, evoking for Sivrioglu Istanbul’s Bosphorus: “Barangaroo’s waterfront reminded me of the Bosphorus Strait in Turkey, with ferries cruising, a gentle breeze and the sun setting.”

Anason’s midweek afternoon meze are complementary, with diners asked to give a gold coin donation that goes to Oz Harvest, Australia’s famous food rescue charity helping those in need.

The traditional Turkish meze includes freshly made lemon thyme oil pide and sesame ring simit, paired with handmade hummus, baba ganoush and white cod roe tarama. The simit bread rings are piled high in Anason’s custom-made Turkish street food cart and make a great base for any of Anason’s main menu dishes. A pastirma of salmon cured on site is already a local favourite, along with Ahtapot octopus and a generous slow-cooked half lamb shoulder – just a few of the signature dishes.

Sivrioglu is no stranger to Sydney’s dining scene.

His Balmain Efendy eatery is a local institution, and he knows many of his regular diners by name; the familiarity brings with it an ease and a sense of place often lacking in new urban developments. “I always thought we had great large-scale tourist restaurants in Sydney but lacked quality waterfront restaurants that have a local, less touristy vibe… all of the restaurants at Barangaroo are experienced, but they’re still small to medium businesses. The owners are still involved in the management of the restaurants, which gives a great neighbourhood vibe to the area.”

SUSTAINABILITY FIRST

Bringing a neighbourhood feel to Barangaroo has been aided by the selection of many chefs like Sivrioglu, who already have highly successful Sydney venues.

Further along Barangaroo’s waterfront Wulugul Walk is Zushi, a Japanese dining experience that has been >

58

DETAILS Anason 5/23 Barangaroo Avenue anason.com.au

Cirrus 10/23 Barangaroo Avenue cirrusdining.com.au

Zushi 10/33 Barangaroo Avenue zushi.com.au

SYDNEY

Clockwise from top left: Freshly made turkish breads make an appareance in every meal; Dip, dunk and share every dish; Sunny waterfront dining; Fresh local mussels should feature every visit

悉尼的顶级银行、律师事务所和会计师事 务所被布朗格鲁时尚优美的高层建筑所吸 引，随之而来的是对长午餐、私人餐厅和行 政主厨级精致美食的需求。澳大利亚的顶级 主厨、最新潮的面包店和最优秀的生产商都 汇聚于此，使这条“大道”遍布酒吧、餐厅和 商铺，以及来自高级时装品牌和定制工匠的 精品店。

首开先河、最佳体验 Anason是首批在布朗格鲁主海滨步道上开 业的餐厅之一，也是土耳其知名主厨萨默· 斯夫里奥格鲁（Somer Sivrioglu）开设于 悉尼的第2间餐厅，专注于为客人供应安纳 托利亚夏季美食。其明亮的蓝色瓷砖餐桌和 方格柳条椅子不仅能让您在此享受悠长午 餐，还可以让您在晚餐前享受各种开胃小吃。 随着落日余晖洒满海滨，Anason的露台将 成为您在晚餐前享用小吃和土耳其美酒的 完美场所，这里够唤起斯夫里奥格鲁对于伊

斯坦堡博斯普鲁斯海峡（Bosphorus Strait） 有很多规模很大的游客餐厅，却缺少拥有当 的回忆： “布朗格鲁的海滨让我回想起土耳 地氛围的优质海滨餐厅。布朗格鲁的所有餐 其的博斯普鲁斯海峡，那里有来来往往的渡 厅都很有历史，但仍然保持着中小型餐厅的 轮、和煦的微风和壮美的日落景象。” 规模。餐厅的老板会参与到餐厅的管理之中， A n a s o n周中的午后 什 锦开胃小 吃特 这也为该区域增添了极大的邻家氛围。” 别美味，食客们在此用餐的同时也代表着 会向澳 大利亚著名的食品 援助 慈善 机构 注重可持续性 Oz Harvest捐赠一枚金币，以帮助有需要 很多像 斯夫 里 奥格 鲁一样已经在 悉尼餐 的人。传统的土耳其什锦开胃小吃包括新 饮业大获成功的主厨选择来到布朗格鲁开 鲜出炉的柠檬百里香油土耳其比萨和芝麻 设餐厅，他们的选择增添了布朗格鲁的邻 面包圈，以及手工制作的鹰嘴豆泥、巴巴茄 家氛围。沿着布朗格鲁海滨的伍伍加步道 泥和白鳕鱼卵。芝麻面包圈高高的堆放在 （Wulugul Walk）走下去，您就会看到Zushi。 Anason特别定制的土耳其街边美食车上， 这是一家日式料理店，复制了位于萨里山 可以搭配Anason的所有主菜一起享用。现 （Surry Hills）大获成功的老店。Zushi自2010 场腌制的鲑鱼酱很受当地人欢迎，还有章鱼 年在萨里山开门迎客以来，一直采用新颖现 和慢炖半片羊肩肉也是餐厅的几道招牌菜。 代的制作方法，将居酒屋的分享式菜肴带到 斯夫里奥格鲁对于悉尼的美食业来说并 了新的高度，其生鱼片尤为家喻户晓。总经 不陌生，他的Balmain Efendy餐厅很受当 理塞雷娜·安格（Serena Ang）就是被布朗 地人喜爱，他也知道很多熟客的名字。这种 格鲁的各式菜系所吸引来到这里，除了日式 熟悉所带来的轻松感和归属感在新都市发 餐厅Zushi，这还有美式、泰式、中式和土耳 展的过程中往往很缺乏， “我一直认为悉尼 其式的餐厅。不过最吸引她的是该区最重 >

“日落时分，一杯清酒、一盘生鱼片才是欣 赏布朗格鲁美景的绝佳方式” 59

SYDNEY

replicated from the highly successful original Surry Hills venue. Legendary for its sashimi, Zushi has been a Surry Hills institution since 2010, taking Izakaya sharing dishes to new levels with a fresh, modern approach to Japanese cuisine. General manager Serena Ang was drawn to the melting pot that is Barangaroo’s diverse range of cuisines, which sees Zushi sit side-by-side with American, Thai, Chinese and Turkish restaurants. She was also drawn to the precinct’s ethos “The sustainability of the precinct is definitely something that we were drawn to as it aligns with the Zushi brand.” Sustainable seafood, free-range chicken, gluten-free dishes, and organic and biodynamic wines are all important elements of the menu. The walk-up sake bar is another big drawcard for Sydney diners, who have the chance to try sake cocktails and less mainstream sake at the sushi bar or the terrace tables.

Like Sivrioglu, Ang was also drawn by the waterfront location. In a city like Sydney, where any real estate runs at premium, waterfront space is almost the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Today, Wulugul Walk is busy all day, with locals and tourists alike making the most of the long, wide promenade from dawn till dusk. The new ferry terminal attracts commuters and tourists, while the breathtaking sunsets keep the al fresco tables busy.

“A GLASS OF SAKE AND A PLATE OF SASHIMI AS THE SUN SETS IS THE BEST WAY TO APPRECIATE THE PRECINCT” 60

“This is one of the last waterfront restaurant spaces in Sydney with a view of the sunset. The opportunity to serve our food and bar menu alfresco with the magic of the sun setting on the harbour as our backdrop was irresistible,” Ang says. A glass of sake and a plate of sashimi as the sun goes down is undoubtedly one of the best ways to appreciate the precinct.

FRESHEST PRODUCE

Brent Savage, owner and chef at Cirrus, also saw the value in such prime real estate. “The waterfront location is great for international guests,” says Savage, whose restaurant slots seamlessly into Barangaroo’s layout.

Savage and business partner Nick Hildebrandt are no strangers to mixing up Sydney’s dining scene – their Bentley Group restaurants have transformed the concept of corporate dining into a cuisine that tests the boundaries of taste and flavour. Cirrus is all about sustainable seafood, with dishes like Moreton Bay bugs with house-made XO and smoked ocean trout parfait showing international guests Sydney’s seafood is about a lot more than fish and chips. Indeed, the ubiquitous seafood platter gets a makeover, with the Cirrus Platter showcasing local NSW oysters, Skull Island prawns, cobia, scallop tartare and pickled mussels. >

SYDNEY

Clockwise from top left: Kingfish, yuzu and blackbean at Cirrus; The clean, modern interiors at Cirrus; Nasu Dengaku at Zushi; Zushi offers dining outdoors or at the sushi bar

要的价值观之一，即“可持续性理念与Zushi 品牌的理念相一致，这无疑也是吸引我们来 到这里的原因。”可持续的海鲜、自由放养 的鸡肉、不含麸质的菜肴，以及有机美酒都 是菜单上的重要元素。需要步行而至的清酒 吧对于悉尼的食客来说也是另一大卖点，食 客们可以在寿司吧或露台餐桌上品尝以清 酒调制的鸡尾酒和非主流清酒。 与斯夫里奥格鲁一样，安格同样被布朗 格鲁的海滨位置所吸引。在悉尼这样一座城 市，任何位于优质海滨位置的建筑都如得到 彩虹尽头的黄金一般幸运。如今的伍伍加 步道整日都很繁忙，从黎明至黄昏，悠长而 宽阔的海滨步道始终满是当地人和游客。全 新的轮渡码头吸引了上班族和游客，而令人 叹为观止的日落景象则使露天餐桌异常火 爆， “这里是悉尼最后一片能够欣赏日落美 景的海滨餐厅区域之一。我们在户外摆上 美食和美酒，以港湾日落为背景，让人们尽 享无法抗拒的落日魅力。”日落时分，一杯 清酒、一盘生鱼片才是欣赏该区美景的绝佳 方式。

最新鲜食材 Cirrus餐厅的所有者兼主厨布伦特·萨维 奇（Brent Savage）同样看到了该区域的价 值， “对于国际游客来说，置身海滨简直是 太棒了，”萨维奇说道，他的餐厅Cirrus已经 与布朗格鲁的众多餐厅完美融为一体。萨 维奇和商业伙伴尼克·希尔德布兰特（Nick Hildebrandt）对悉尼各具特色的餐饮业并 不陌生。Bentley Group的餐厅将企业餐饮 的概念得以转变，烹饪的菜肴努力突破口感 与风味的界限。Cirrus专注于供应可持续的 海鲜，摩顿湾（Moreton Bay）自制XO酱 和烟熏海鳟鱼冰淇淋水果冻等菜肴向国际 游客展示了悉尼的海鲜绝不仅仅是炸鱼和 薯条。实际上，无处不在的海鲜拼盘在这里 被发扬光大，Cirrus Platter为人们供应来 自于新南威尔士州的本土牡蛎、来自于骷髅 岛（Skull Island）的明虾、军曹鱼、扇贝鞑 靼和精选蛤贝。餐厅对于海鲜的重视也贯 > 61

SYDNEY

The restaurant’s heavy focus on seafood carries through to the interior design, where hundreds of hanging, sculpted rods are an ode to fishing, suspended alongside a vintage speedboat. The space is sleek and chic, with polished concrete floors, a steel bar and plenty of timber, marble and gold. It’s a space that’s not afraid to have a bit of fun – something that’s reflected in the food.

Cirrus isn’t the only restaurant to focus on flair in flavour and design. Lotus Dining Group’s brand new Bing’s Bao & Beer serves very modern variations on bao, along with beer, bubbled tea and bottled cocktails. And there’s also the Group’s signature Lotus Barangaroo Restaurant, where head chef Chris Yan is reimagining Chinese cuisine.

VICTORIA'S ICONS

There’s also Melbourne’s famous Belles Hot Chicken, where waffles and fried chicken have an almost cultlike following, especially for the lunch crowd. Ume Burger also caters to city workers, along with gourmet grocer and wine bar Bel & Brio. There’s usually lines for the freshly baked doughnuts at Shortstop Donuts, another of the Melbourne alumni, and the handmade chocolates at OhBoo! sell out fast during Easter and the festive season. Matt Moran’s spiral-shaped restaurant is due to burst onto the scene at any time, with final construction taking place.

Whether it’s delicate fine dining dishes or quick eats bursting with flavour, Barangaroo’s food scene showcases some of the best that not just Sydney, but also Australia, has to offer.

62

“BARANGAROO'S FOOD SCENE IS BURSTING WITH FLAVOUR”

Clockwise from top left: Collector Store in Barangaroo shopping precinct; The Standard Store features some of the latest big brands; Men's tailoring at Belance is one of the finest in Sydney; Lotus's outdoor dining offering

SYDNEY

ONE-OF-A-KIND COLLECTIONS Just as the restaurants of Barangaroo are curated, there is a hand-picked selection of local and international designers that make Barangaroo a must-visit for the fashion forward. Scotch Row is an ode to Melbourne’s laneways, and is dotted with bespoke tailors, designers, homewares and stationery stores. Here are a few not to be missed: 正如布朗格鲁汇聚了众多餐厅一样，本土和国际设计 师的精品店也使布朗格 鲁成为了时尚潮流的必去之 处。Scotch Row仿照墨尔本的巷道，遍布专门提供定 制服务的裁缝师、设计师、家居用品店和文具店。以下 这些精品店不容错过： THE STANDARD STORE The best-kept secret of Sydney and Melbourne’s fashion forward is out. The Standard Store has long kept locals in Sydney’s Surry Hills and Melbourne’s Fitzroy clothed in the latest big brand names from around the world. Owners Nicola and Orlando Reindorf keep all three stores stocked with pieces from hard-to-find, famous and up-and-coming designers, undertaking international buying trips twice a year. Barangaroo’s store is a carefully curated collection of pieces, with bright pops of colourful accessories paired with racks of minimalist clothing. This is the only place in Australia you’ll find the likes of Marseilles brand Sessun or the Dutch house Humanoid. 悉 尼 和 墨 尔 本 时 尚 潮 流 的 秘 密 均 来自于 此 。T h e Standard Store长久以来一直为悉尼沙利山和墨尔本 费兹罗（Fitzroy）的人们提供来自世界各地的知名大 品牌的新近时装。The Standard Store的所有者尼古 拉（Nicola）和奥兰多·瑞道夫（Orlando Reindorf） 每年都会进行2次全球采购之旅，为3家店铺网罗各种 一款难求、名款以及新近崭露头角的设计师的服装。布 朗格鲁的店铺精心网罗了一系列精品，将色彩鲜艳的 配饰与极简主义的服装相搭配。这里是澳大利亚唯一 一间可以找到马赛品牌Sessun或荷兰品牌Humanoid 的店铺。

穿到室内设计之中，屋顶上除了一艘老式快 艇，还悬挂着数百根线条清晰的木棒，意指 鱼竿。整体空间时尚而别致，抛光混凝土地 板、钢制吧台搭配大量的木材、大理石和黄 金元素。这是一个充满乐趣的空间，这一点 在食物上也有所体现。 Ci r r u s 不是唯一 一间专 注于风味 和设 计的餐厅，Lotus Dining G roup的全新 餐厅Bings Bao + Beer为您供应经过现 代改良的包子，同时搭配啤酒、珍珠奶茶 和瓶装鸡尾酒，但这里同时也开设了Lotus D i n i n g G ro u p 餐饮集团的标志性餐厅 莲Lotus Barangaroo，主厨克里斯·颜 （Chris Yan）正在重新塑造中餐在人们心中 的形象。

维多利亚州特色美食 这里还有墨尔本著名的Belles Hot Chicken， 它的华夫饼和炸鸡大受欢迎，尤其受到午 餐人群的喜爱。Ume Burger和美食店及 酒吧Bel & Brio也很适合城市工作者的口 味。Shortstop Donuts新鲜出炉的甜甜圈 也会让人们大排长龙，而另一间出售手工制 作巧克力的墨尔本店铺OhBoo！也是如此， 各色商品在复活节和节日季会很快销售一 空。Matt Moran的螺旋形餐厅已经进入施 工的最后阶段，即将开业。 无论是精致菜肴还是风味快餐，布朗格 鲁的美食业向人们展示的不仅仅是悉尼的 顶级菜肴，还为人们展示了澳大利亚所能提 供的顶级菜肴。

THE WAITING ROOM Famous for catering to Melbourne’s minimalist fashion aesthetic, this is the spot for fashion pieces from Scandinavian designers, along with select local pieces. 以展示墨尔本极简主义时尚美学而闻名，为您呈现来自 斯堪设计师的时尚款式，以及精选的本地款式。 BELANCÉ Men’s tailoring has never looked so good. This concept store offers ready-to-wear and made-tomeasure pieces from international clothing brands like Kenzo, Krew du Optic and Von Röutte. 男装剪裁从未如此美好，这间概念店能够为您供应高 级成衣，还能为您量身定做Kenzo、Krew du Optic 和Von Röutte等国际品牌服装。

63

XIAMEN

64

花园城市

GARDEN CITY

With seaside promenades, sophisticated restaurants and a garden-laced getaway on its doorstep, it’s easy to see why island city Xiamen is a hit with holidaymakers, writes Alicia Miller

I

t’s the usual holiday conundrum: city or beach? Culture or seaside? Fine hotels and restaurants, or lush landscapes? But with Xiamen there’s no need to choose. In this burgeoning city on the south-east coast, you’ve got all the draw of a thrilling urban break, with historic architecture, plush modern hotels and enticing museums. Yet you’ve also got the lure of a holiday isle – rambling promenades, turquoisetinged waves, and verdant hills that give way to golden beaches. You can spend days wandering through pavilion-dotted gardens or browsing shops brimming with traditional beaded embroidery, and evenings at the top of a skyscraper draining mai tais… >

海滨大道、精致餐厅、近在咫尺的花园，海岛城市厦 门深受度假者喜爱的原因一目了然。

度

假者通常都会面临两难 选择：城市或海滩？文化 或海滨 ？精 致 酒店和餐 厅，抑或是郁郁葱葱的自然美景？ 但在厦门，您就没有这种选择的烦 恼。在这座位于东南沿海，生机勃 勃的都市之中，您可以领略一切激 动人心的都市休闲之旅，历史悠久 的建筑、豪华的现代酒店和迷人的

博物馆，不一而足。然而，您也会 被度假岛屿所深深吸引，漫无边际 的海滨大道、碧蓝的海浪和青翠的 山丘，让您沉迷于黄金海滩之中。 您可以花费几天时间在遍布凉亭 的花园中悠然漫步，或者漫不经心 地游览充满传统串珠刺绣的商店； 夜晚，您还可以在摩天大楼的高处 畅饮迈泰鸡尾酒。 >

65

XIAMEN

THE HOTELS

Y

ou won’t struggle to find a five-star beauty in which to bed down in Xiamen.

Take the Langham Palace, a vision in pearly hues, from the lobby’s milky, polished stone floors to the bedrooms’ crisp white linens. Even the restaurants and bars glimmer like the inside of an oyster shell; particularly Ming, home to Michelin-standard Cantonese dishes. And if all that white wasn’t spectacular enough, wherever possible – from those spacious bedrooms to the serene pool – floor-to-ceiling windows let daylight flood in, ladling on an extra layer of luminosity.

Far more broody, and exuding an old-world, Euro-glam vibe, is the Kempinski. Dripping in mocha and cinnamon tones, this luxurious pad perched on the edge of Jiahe Garden seems to bring the greenery in with pops of foliage set against its caramel-hued printed walls. The spa is a mega-draw: green tea body scrubs soothe tense muscles into submission. And the pampering doesn’t stop there: Kempinski specialises in “the details”, and you can choose your favourite type of pillow, duvet – even flowers – to be delivered straight to your room.

You’re on holiday, so why not channel that resort feel? Le Meridien feels like a tropical hideaway, hugged by green hills and lined with palms and glassy pools.

The courtyard even has its own waterfall, romantically illuminated after sundown. Inside, things get urban-funky, with pops of neon colour bringing alive otherwise neutral rooms. One of the best views in the house is from the Latitude 24 dining room, where you’ll get a full frontal of hillside and waterfalls while devouring afternoon tea.

But for real views, there’s nowhere quite like the Conrad. Perched in sail-shaped tower from the 37th floor upwards, it’s the tallest hotel in this port city, providing unobstructed views of the sparkling sea and idyllic Gulanyu Island. Unsurprisingly, that also means it’s home to one of the “top” (sorry) bars in the city, and a real “high”light (sorry, again) of a stay here is draining a bubbly from the 54th floor Coast Bar and Grill.

“PERCHED IN A SAILSHAPED TOWER FROM THE 37TH FLOOR UPWARDS, THE CONRAD IS THE TALLEST HOTEL IN THIS PORT CITY”

酒店 想要在厦门找到一间五星级奢华 酒店安稳过夜并不困难，从众多五 星级酒店中选择一间才是真正的 难题所在。厦门朗豪酒店将其整体 打造为珍珠光泽的视觉效果，从乳 白色的大堂、抛光的石制地板到卧 室的洁白亚麻床品，甚至餐厅和酒 吧也像牡蛎壳内的珍珠般闪闪发 光；米其林水准的粤菜餐厅明阁尤 为闪亮。如果整体白色的视觉效果 看起来仍然不够那么壮观，那么从 落地窗倾泻而入的阳光，为宽敞的 的卧室和宁静的游泳池都增添了 一层亮度。 厦门源昌凯宾斯基大酒店散发 出欧洲旧世界的迷人氛围。点缀着 摩卡和肉桂的色调，这间位于嘉禾 花园边缘的奢华酒店将绿色植物 与焦糖色粉刷墙壁上的叶饰完美 融合。水疗中心也非常引人注目： 绿茶擦洗身体可以舒缓紧张的肌 肉，而昏暗的放松区域则是放松面 部后小憩一下的理想之所。然而， 呵护并不止于此。凯宾斯基酒店专 注于细节，您可以选择您喜欢的枕

头、羽绒被的类型，甚至鲜花也会 直接送到您的房间。 既然您是在度假，为什么不感受 一下度假村的氛围呢？厦门艾美酒 店（感觉像是一个热带隐居之所， 隐 身于绿 色山丘 之中，遍 布 棕 榈 树，并配有玻璃泳池。庭院里甚至 有瀑布，日落时分散发出浪漫的气 息。酒店内部，一切都流露出都市 的时尚气息，霓虹色彩或亮红色调 若隐若现，使中性房间变得活灵活 现。酒店最好的视野之一来自北纬 24餐厅，在这里，您可以在下午茶 时分，一边品尝奶油蛋糕，一边欣 赏眼前的山丘和瀑布美景。 但是想要欣赏到真正的美景，没 有比厦门康莱德酒店更为合适的 了。酒店位于帆船形状的世茂海峡 大厦的37层及以上，是这座港口城 市最高的酒店，波光粼粼的大海和 田园诗般的鼓浪屿美景一览无余。 不出所料，这里也是厦门“最高” 酒吧之一的所在地，在位于54层的 海岸餐厅&酒吧畅饮美酒，才是真 正的“亮点”所在。夜晚，邻近的餐 厅变得轻柔、昏暗，您可以在浪漫 的氛围中俯瞰海景。

WHERE TO SLEEP

66

Langham Place From RMB 590 per night, langhamhotels.com

Le Meridien From RMB 686 per night, starwoodhotels.com

Kempinski From RMB 720 per night, kempinski.com

Conrad From RMB 1,010 per night, conradhotels3.hilton.com

Clockwise from top left: The opulent Grand Deluxe Suite at Kempinski and the luxury resorts gleaming and modern exterior; A highlight at the Westin is the Chinese dining option Zen5es restaurant; The Conrad building is symbol of modernity in Xiamen; Relaxing is made easy at Kempinski’s spa; One of the more individual exterior designs at The Westin; All-day dining is available at Kaffee at Kempinski

XIAMEN

> 67

XIAMEN

THE BITES

Y

ou don’t need to be in Beijing or Shanghai to get great global bites.

Xiamen’s chefs are knocking out sublime dishes too. The F Bistro flies the flag for fine Gallic cuisine in a two-floor space that channels traditional Parisian Left Bank cosiness. On the menu?

Rich and thick beef bourguignon, tuna-flecked salade niçoise, and cheesy croque monsieur. The wine list, too, has a very French flavour, while beers are from France’s brewmaster neighbours, Belgium.

You may feel like a pour with a more local flavour, in which case head for the bizarrely but brilliantly named Fat Fat Beer Horse Brewpub, inside a former fish factory in the Shapowei Art Zone. Run by pint-wise Germans, the craft brewery knocks up everything from hoppy IPAs using Chinese herbs to delicate wheat beers. The set-up is slick, simple and dark. It’s very Brooklyn, with its polished wooden tables, subway tiling and industrial-style outfitting. Order one of the quirkiest pours, seaweedinfused Gose, a Germanic top-fermented style with added flavouring of sea salt, coriander seed and seaweed.

Special occasions call for special bites, and for that turn to Olea Restaurant in the Sheraton, run by Italian chef Graziano Pia. He recreates dishes from his hometown of Genoa in Liguria – the scrummy home of pesto and bountiful seafood – and serves them up in a space that’s punchy and sophisticated.

Finally, in a city surrounded by water, you need to have at least one meal by the blue. At French chef Greg Louraichi’s Greg’s Restaurant you can nibble an eclectic mix of Euro-style dishes, from fall-off-the-bone lamb shank to rich and silky crème brûlée – all on a pretty terrace overlooking Yuan Dang lake. Louraichi only works with the finest produce – succulent duck from Louie Le Duck near Beijing, merino lamb from Silere in New Zealand and juicy rib eye beef from Rangers Valley in New South Wales – so you know the food’s going to be as delicious as the view.

WHERE TO EAT F Bistro No 152 Building 124, 1 Yundang Road Fat Fat Beer Horse Brewpub Shapowei Art Zone,

68

Daxue Lu 153 Olea Restaurant at Sheraton 381-1 Jiahe Road, Huli Qu starwoodhotels.com

“IN A CITY SURROUNDED

BY WATER, YOU NEED TO HAVE ONE MEAL BY THE BLUE, OVERLOOKING YUAN DANG LAKE”

美食 您无需前往北京或上海便可品尝 到全球的顶级美食，厦门的主厨们 正在竭尽全力地打造 令人赞叹的 美味菜肴。The F Bistro（致力于 打造精致的法国菜肴，两层楼的空 间营造出传统的巴黎左岸风情。菜 单上有什么？肉厚多汁的勃艮第牛 肉、金枪鱼尼斯沙拉和法式奶酪吐 司。酒单也同样具有法式风味，而 啤酒则来自于法国的邻国，堪称啤 酒大国的比利时。您可以在这里畅 饮一杯您喜爱的美酒，如果天气好 的话，您还可以在户外餐桌享用一 顿慵懒的午餐。 如果更想品尝当地风味，您可以 前往命名奇怪 但却非常出彩的胖 胖啤酒马，位于沙坡尾艺术西区一 间昔日的水产加工厂内。这里由擅 长酿造啤酒的德国人经营，手工酿 制的啤酒厂从有啤酒花苦味的异 丙醇中酿造啤酒，并使用中草药精 制小麦啤酒。这里的布局整洁、简 单而昏暗，抛光的木制餐桌、地铁 站式的瓷砖和工业风格的设备，极 具布鲁克林风情。您还可以在这里 品尝最奇 特的啤酒之一 ——海藻 哥塞啤酒，这款德式啤酒采用顶部 发酵方式，添加有海盐、胡荽子和 海藻，风味非常独特。

特殊的场合需要特别的美食， 您可以到由意大利主厨格拉齐亚 诺·皮亚（Graziano Pia）经营的 厦门喜来登酒店绿茵餐厅一尝美 味。他从位于利古里亚（Liguria） 的家乡热 那亚（盛 产美味的意 大 利青酱和丰富的海鲜）汲取灵感， 重新打造菜肴，并在精致空间中将 其奉上餐桌。同时，餐厅的内饰也 极易勾起顾客的食欲：窗帘的颜色 是番茄酱的红色，墙壁是罗勒的绿 色，而椅子则是成熟南瓜的色调。 仅仅是来到这里便会让您对皮亚 的意大利肉汁烩饭和柔滑的意大 利面垂涎三尺。 最 后，身处一 个四面 环 水 的城 市之中，您 至 少需 要品尝 一 顿水 滨美食。在法国主厨格雷格·罗拉 齐（Greg Louraichi）的Greg’s Restaurant，您可以在能够俯瞰 筼筜湖美景的美丽露台之上，细细 品尝不拘 一格的欧式 菜肴，从 脱 骨羊小腿排到馥郁丝滑的焦糖布 丁，应有尽有。罗拉齐只选用最好 的食材——来自北京周边的Louie Le Duck的多汁鸭肉，来自新西兰 Silere的美利奴羊肉和来自新南威 尔士州Rangers Valley的多汁肋 眼 牛 排 ——令人垂涎欲滴的美食 与可餐的秀丽景色在这里相映成 趣。

Clockwise from top left: One of Fat Fat Beer House’s bespoke brews; Greg’s dishes could easily be mistaken for a work of art; There’s always plenty of fresh flavoured brews to choose from at Fat Fat Beer House; After a makeover, it’s hard to believe this beer joint was once a fish factory; Another one of Greg’s masterpieces and the French chef in action; Dishes offer flavour and theatrics

XIAMEN

> 69

XIAMEN

THE SIGHTS

T

op hotels and sizzling restaurants are all well and good, but you probably want more – and Xiamen’s got it. The city’s many treasures include 30,000 square metre Nanputuo Temple – one of China’s oldest – with green-tiled, upturned rooftops fringed in gold and red. Sitting on a mountain overlooking the sea, this Tang dynasty Buddhist temple is storybook-pretty, and it’s easy to lose an afternoon wandering its different halls and pavilions, spotting ivory sculptures, Buddhist scriptures and bronze bells. Keep your eyes peeled for darting monks, who still live on site.

Xiamen majors in green space, so you’ll need to pay a visit to Bailuzhou Park, the largest in the city at a whopping 400,000 square metres. You’ll find more than grass: spot a beautiful stone goddess with an egret on her shoulder, the city’s most-photographed sculpture.

Shops and restaurants are at the ready for exploring, and don’t miss the “musical” fountain, which belts out colourful lights and tunes in daily shows.

Feeling bookish? Pay a visit to Xiamen University – while in most cities you wouldn’t bother visiting a school, this is an exception. A top choice for future dignitaries and the children of diplomats, its historic campus in the Siming District is nothing short of stunning – towering white buildings with burnt orange roofs, tucked into the mountain’s foothills and facing the ocean.

But if you do one thing in Xiamen, it has to be Gulangyu Island. Hop the ferry to the two-kilometresquared, car-free island, and lose yourself in its gorgeous colonial old town, a jumble of rainbow-hued buildings. Pop into the popular local piano museum, packed with a fascinating collection of instruments.

Move on to its pretty beaches, but save time for an astounding garden – 1930s Shuzhuang. Wandering through its bamboo forests, bridges and pavilions leading to breathtaking ocean views, we bet you’ll be able to guess why Xiamen is nicknamed the garden city…

“XIAMEN MAJORS IN GREEN SPACE, SO YOU’LL NEED TO PAY A VISIT TO BAILUZHOU PARK, THE LARGEST IN THE CITY AT A WHOPPING 400,000 SQUARE METRES”

美景 顶级酒店和热闹的餐厅都很完美， 但您可能会有更多期待，厦门同样 能够满足您。厦门众多旅游珍宝中 包括中国最古老的寺庙之一南普陀 寺，面积达3万平方米。绿瓦翘檐， 掩映于金色和红色之中，这座源自 唐朝的佛教寺庙位于山峰之上，俯 瞰着大海，如童话书中描述的一般 华美。漫步于不同的大殿和凉亭之 中，观赏象牙雕塑、佛经和铜铃，整 个下午的时光很快便会过去。寺庙 之中仍然生活着僧侣，留心寻找， 您会发现他们从您身边匆匆而过。 厦门致 力于打造 绿 色空间，因 此您有必要到白鹭洲公园一游，白 鹭洲公园占地40万平方米，是厦门 最大的公园。在这里，您所看到的 远不止青青草地，还能看到一座美 丽的女神石像，一只白鹭栖息在她 的肩头，这是厦门上镜率最高的雕 塑。这里还有很多商店和餐厅等着 您去探索，音乐喷泉也不容错过，

在每天的表演中呈现出绚烂的灯光 和色调。 想要感受书香气息？可以到厦门 大学逛一逛。虽然在大多数城市， 您不会去学校游览，但在厦门是个 例外。厦门大学是未来显要人物和 外交官子女的首选，其位于思明区 的校园历史悠久，高耸的白色建筑 搭配焦橙色屋顶，面朝大海，隐身 于山麓之中。 但如果您在厦门只能做一件事 情，那一定会是前往鼓浪屿。搭乘 轮渡来到这座两平方公里的无车 岛，您可以漫步于绚丽的殖民地老 城区中，在众多彩虹色调的建筑中 迷失自我。您可以拜访当地很受欢 迎的钢琴博物馆，欣赏迷人的乐器 藏品。您也可以在美丽的海滩上游 玩，但一定要给游览菽庄花园留点 时间，这座建于20世纪30年代的花 园美得令人惊艳。漫步于竹林、小 桥和凉亭之中，欣赏着让人窒息的 海洋美景，您一定会理解为什么厦 门被称为花园城市。

SEE THE SIGHTS

70

Nanputuo Temple 515 Siming S Road, Siming Qu

Bailuzhou Park Access via Bailuzhou Road, Siming Qu

Xiamen University 422 Siming S Road, Siming Qu

Gulangyu Island Access via ferry only from Xiagu Wharf

Clockwise from top left: Yanwu Bridge scenery around the Huandao Road; Small bridge on a lake inside the botanical garden near the Nanputuo Temple; The locally loved Xiamen University at night; Traditional architecture of Hakka people; Xinglin Xiamen Garden Expo Pavilion; Nanputuo Temple is so named because it is south of the Buddhist holy site Mount Putuo

XIAMEN

71

酒吧巡礼

PUB CRAWL

澳大利亚的某些高端美食酒吧带给您的绝 不仅仅是炸肉片和薯条，您还能在这里获得 更多体验。我们走访澳大利亚各地，为您搜 寻能畅饮啤酒、享受美食盛宴的最佳地点。

There’s a lot more on offer than just schnitzel and chips in some of Australia’s high-end gastropubs.

We scour the country to find the best places to enjoy a beer alongside a gourmet meal

72

UPSCALE PUBS

SYDNEY

The Bellevue Hotel After some hefty renovations over the last few years, the Bellevue Hotel in Sydney’s Paddington reinvented itself from a dated, locals-only corner pub to one of the areas flagship eateries. The revitalisation was part of a wider effort to renew and refresh the old pubs and buildings in the area to suit the present need for more high-end establishments. With the pokies thrown out and the faded carpets torn up, today the Bellevue is a pub worth its salt. The public bar at the front flows seamlessly into the dining room out the back, and for those with a hankering for oysters, you’ll be happy to see a huge seafood bar as well. You can expect the usual upscale pub fare – but with a twist. Lamb shoulder, beef brisket and steak make up the bulk of the menu, but the seafood shines in all the right ways. Upstairs you’ll find the Bellevue Terrace where you can relax with a cocktail before or after dinner. bellevuehotel.com.au 经 过 过 去 几 年 的 大 规 模 翻 新 后 ，位 于 悉 尼 帕 丁 顿 （Paddington）的The Bellevue Hotel从一间只有当地人 光顾的过时角落酒吧，摇身一变成为该地区的旗舰餐厅之 一。The Bellevue Hotel的翻新只是为了使老旧酒吧和建筑 重获新生、焕发活力所做的一部分努力，目的是满足目前该 地区对更多高端餐厅的需求。扔掉角子老虎机、撕碎褪色 的地毯，如今的The Bellevue Hotel已经成为一间物有所 值的酒吧。位于前面的公共酒吧与后面的餐厅无缝衔接，对 于那些渴望品尝牡蛎的人来说，您会很高兴地看到一个巨 大的牡蛎和海鲜吧。不出所料的，这里一般都是高档的酒 吧菜肴，但您还会有些许意外发现。菜单上大部分都是羊 肩肉、牛腩和牛排，当然其中也不乏海鲜，为菜单增色不少。 走上楼去，您会发现Bellevue Terrace，您可以在晚餐前后 去那里啜饮一杯鸡尾酒、放松片刻。

Left to right: Bellevue Hotel’s recently revitalised dining room; The menu leans heavily towards hearty roasts and pub favourites with a twist

73

UPSCALE PUBS

SYDNEY

The Dolphin Hotel These three levels of buzzing pub sum up what it means to be a modern Sydney establishment. A huge frontof-house bar, casual dining and an outdoor terrace all wrapped in a recently modernised look have made the Dolphin one of Surry Hills’ best meeting places for a bite or quick drink. Each room and floor of this avant-garde pub creates a different vibe. Some walls are left bare, some are covered with black-and-white geometric designs, and some are clad in all sorts of fabric and artworks. Executive chef Monty Koludrovic has created a casual space where the food is anything but basic. Sommeliers work hard in the Dining and Wine Room while fine-dining chefs whip up northern-style pizzas and pastries. With dishes from the simple burger to soft-grilled octopus or twice-cooked pork belly with truffle, the Dolphin has found a way to cater to all crowds. dolphinhotel.com.au 这间3层楼高的繁忙酒吧诠释了悉尼现代酒吧的真正内涵。 在颇具现代感的外观下，有着宽敞的前吧、休闲餐饮区和 一个户外露台，这使得Dolphin成为萨里山（Surry Hills）小 酌畅饮的最佳聚会地之一。这间前卫酒吧的每个房间和楼 层都营造出不同的氛围。有些墙体是裸露的，有些墙体覆 盖着黑色和白色的几何设计图案，有些则只是简单地装饰 着各种织物和艺术品。行政主厨蒙提·克鲁多维（Monty Koludrovic）以美食为基础营造出了一个休闲空间。侍酒 师在餐厅和酒吧中辛勤服务，而打造精致餐饮的厨师也正 在为您准备北部风格的比萨和点心。从简单的汉堡到软烤 章鱼或回锅五花肉配松露，Dolphin都能满足您的味蕾。

Top: Each room at the Dolphin is a work of art in itself Left: Tables, chairs and lounges are decorated in psychodelic patterns Above: Multiple menus mean you could be dining in style or sampling a simple Reuben sandwich with chips

74

UPSCALE PUBS

MELBOURNE

The Railway Hotel Like any good gastropub in Australia, the Railway Hotel in Windsor, Melbourne lets you choose your favourite way to dine out. It could be in the traditional downstairs pub with a few friends, a Carlton on hand and some bar snacks; on The Deck looking out over the city skyline with some share-style meals; or in The Highline, their fine-dining offering in an intimate, classic dining space.

Stylish and modern decor mixed with unique dishes and attentive waiters and sommeliers mean you’ll feel worlds apart from the bustling pub downstairs. Owner Peter McCormack uses the restaurant to showcase produce directly from his own family farm in Oak Valley.

Head chef Simon Tarlington mixes up the menu based on whatever is in season or whatever he has dreamt up overnight. Pick from cow, sheep, pig, garden or from the sea and you’ll get his take on it – mixed with whatever he’s found at the farm. therailway.com.au

MELBOURNE

The Astor and Roving Marrow

与其他澳大利亚出色的美食酒吧一样，位于墨尔本温莎 （Windsor）的The Railway Hotel可以让您决定您最喜欢 的用餐方式。您可以与几个朋友在传统的楼下酒吧啜饮一 杯卡尔顿、品尝些许酒吧小吃，在The Deck俯瞰城市天际 线、品尝共享菜肴，或在The Highline私密的、经典的用餐 空间中体验精致的餐饮体验。时尚而现代的装修与独特的 菜肴以及周到的服务员和侍酒师相融合，让您远离楼下酒 吧的熙熙攘攘。餐厅的食材直接选取自老板彼得·麦考马克 （Peter McCormack）位于橡树谷（Oak Valley）的家庭 农场。主厨西蒙·塔金顿（Simon Tarlington）利用一切季 节性食材和他梦中的创意想法精心打造菜单。取自牛、羊、 猪、菜园或海洋的一切食材都被加以利用，与从农场中获 取的一切食材相融合，为您呈现独特菜肴。

From the outside, the Astor looks like any other Melbourne venue, but venture inside and you’ll be faced with one of the sleekest pubs and restaurants in the city. The bar itself is a casual 40-seater with comfortable booths, brown tiles and a fancy bar-snacks menu; however, the Roving Marrow, a 50-seater dining room tucked in the back is what has helped this local pub make a name for itself. This slick restaurant is all dark timber, black walls and contemporary lighting. And while the atmosphere alone is enough to impress many, the menu kicks things up a notch. Chef Hayden McMillan has crafted a truly impressive menu that’s more fine-dining than we’ve ever seen in a pub. Yum cha style carts come around with oysters, pickled clams and all sorts of raw goodies, while a second cart brings tapas-style snacks to pick from. Main plates feature spruced-up traditional pub food with dishes like lamb neck with ricotta, roast chicken, free-range pork with miso and turnip and spanner crab in buttermilk. theastorcarlton.com.au 从外观看起来，The Astor与其他任何一间 墨尔本酒吧如出一辙，但步入其中，您会 发现这里是墨尔本最时尚的酒吧和餐厅之 一。酒吧有40个休闲座位，配有舒适的雅 座、棕色的瓷砖和让人着迷的酒吧小吃菜 单，然而，隐藏于其后的拥有50个座位的 餐厅The Roving Marrow才是使这间当地 酒吧声名鹊起的原因。这间装修精良的餐 厅由全深色木材、黑色墙壁和现代照明构 成。餐厅的氛围已经足以让人印象深刻，

菜单更为其增色不少。主厨海顿·麦克米伦 （Hayden McMillan）打造出了真正令人 印象深刻的菜单，比我们之前在任何酒吧 见过的都更为精致。饮茶风格的手推餐车 为您奉上牡蛎、咸蚋仔和各种未经烹调的 美味食材，而另一辆手推餐车则为您提供 塔帕斯风格的各种小吃，供您选择。主菜为 您奉上的是漂亮精致的传统酒吧美食，如 羊颈肉配乳清起司、烤鸡、散养猪肉配味噌 芜菁以及酸奶旭蟹。 75

UPSCALE PUBS

MELBOURNE

L’Hotel Gitan It’s rare that we get a cross between French food and the classic Aussie pub, but Jacques Reymond, the man behind Bistro Gitan, has found the perfect blend of the two. Housed in an art deco corner pub in Prahran, Melbourne, L’Hotel Gitan is a casual, walk-in pub, but instead of steak and gravy, you’ll get dishes like steak tartare, boudin noir and duck magret. With a number of dining options, you can dine however you feel comfortable – there’s a bistro, there are bar stools at the front bar, and there are timber booths outside. The open kitchen and main bar is decked out in black-andwhite tiles and brass fittings that establish a stylish yet approachable vibe. The wine list features a few prominent Australian wines but is mostly made of imports, while the beers on tap are a mix between Aussie classics, local favourites and few niche craft beers. lhotelgitan.com.au

ADELAIDE

2KW 2KW Bar and Restaurant is one of the latest rooftop eateries to spring up and make a name for itself in Adelaide. This rooftop bar knows its focus and sticks to it, providing simple yet elegant tapas plates such as eye fillet tartare or crispy spiced half duck, and a solid wine, beer and cocktail list, all set among beautifully designed wooden and brass furniture. Head chef Daniel Lawrence has been at 2KW since its inception and is the creative mind behind all the creative share plates on offer. The main bar is cool and bright during the summer and warm and cozy during winter, but it’s the unobscured view over the north side of the city that gets people talking. With the option of secluded booths with low lighting, or the more bustling terrace, 2KW is one of the best pub/restaurants in Adelaide for a charming night with friends. 2kwbar.com.au 2KW Bar and Restaurant是阿德莱德新近开业并声明鹊起 的屋顶餐厅之一。这间屋顶酒吧始终秉持其关注重点，供应 简单却精致的塔帕斯餐前小吃，如鞑靼里脊牛排或脆香鸭， 以及丰富的葡萄酒、啤酒和鸡尾酒酒单，搭配设计精美的木 制和黄铜家具。主厨丹尼尔·劳伦斯（Daniel Lawrence） 自成立之初便在2KW工作，是所有创意共享菜肴的缔造者。 夏季的主吧台凉爽明亮，冬季则温暖舒适，但人们一直所谈 论的却是城市北部一览无余的景致。无论您选择灯光昏暗 的、隐蔽的雅座，或是更为热闹的露台，2KW都是您在阿德 莱德与朋友共度迷人夜晚的绝佳酒吧/餐厅之一。 76

Above: 2KW’s indoor/outdoor dining space Below: Scallops in Champagne sauce at L’Hotel Gitan

法 式 美 食 与 经 典 澳 式 酒 吧 的 融 合 非 常 罕见 ，但 来 自 Bistro Gitan的雅克·雷蒙（Jacques Reymond）却将 两者完美融合在一起。L’Hotel Gitan位于墨尔本朴郎罕 （Prahran）的一间装饰艺术风格的角落酒吧之中，是一间 休闲的步入式酒吧，在这里，您看不到牛排，取而代之的是 鞑靼牛排、法式布丁血肠和煎鸭胸等菜肴。酒吧为您提供 众多用餐选择，您可以以您感觉舒服的任何方式用餐。在 吧台前面或木制雅座的外面还配有酒吧高脚凳。开放式厨 房和主吧台装饰着黑色和白色的瓷砖以及黄铜配件，营造 出时尚而又平易近人的氛围。酒单为您供应一些澳大利亚 最著名的葡萄酒，但主要供应进口葡萄酒，而盛放在有旋 塞的桶里的啤酒则包括澳大利亚经典啤酒、当地人最喜爱 的啤酒和一些针对特定顾客的手工精酿啤酒。

UPSCALE PUBS

“IT’S RARE THAT WE GET A CROSS BETWEEN FRENCH FOOD AND THE CLASSIC AUSSIE PUB”

77

UPSCALE PUBS

SYDNEY

The Paddington Just a short walk from the Bellevue Hotel in Paddington, Sydney is the aptly named the Paddington, another casual fine-dining pub. Executive chef Ben Greeno offers a world-class dining experience that’s made all the more special by the relaxed pub atmosphere. Located on Oxford Street, one of Sydney’s most iconic streets, the Paddington makes sure it continues the tradition of creating an iconic experience. The restaurant features intimate tables with raw concrete and brick walls, clean wooden bench tops and stone bars. The open kitchen means you’ll be treated to all the sights, sounds and smells of the dishes being prepared, adding to the fresh and buzzing atmosphere. Serving up some of Sydney’s finest rotisserie meats, the Paddington stays true to its pub roots by sticking to simple but well-prepared meals.

Roast vegetables, meats and fish are the stars here, while the craft beer list rivals some of the best. merivale.com.au/thepaddington 距离悉尼帕丁顿的The Bellevue Hotel仅几步之遥， 您会发现另一间名字十分有意 思的休闲美食 酒吧T h e Paddington。行政主厨本·格里诺（Ben Greeno）以更 为独特的休闲酒吧氛围为您打造世界级的餐饮体验。The Paddington位于悉尼最具标志性的街道之一——牛津街 （Oxford St），创造标志性体验的传统在这里得以延续。 餐厅配有私人餐桌、原始混凝土和砖墙，以及干净的木制 台面和石制吧台。餐厅的开放式厨房让您能够感受到每个 人的菜肴在制作过程中的景象、声音和气味，平添几分新鲜 与活力。The Paddington供应悉尼最好的旋转式烤肉，各 色菜肴简单而不失精致，忠于其酒吧本源。烤蔬菜、烤肉和 烤鱼是这里的招牌菜，而手工精酿的各种啤酒与某些明星 酒款相比也毫不逊色。

78

UPSCALE PUBS

SYDNEY

Riley Street Garage Sydneysiders can’t get enough of their pub fare, so every new gastropub that pops up in the neighbourhood is always a welcome sight, especially one that specialises in oysters and whiskey. At Riley Street Garage in Woolloomooloo, the central communal bar – with craft beer on tap and a wall of liquor no whiskey lover could scoff at – sits alongside a full, American-inspired menu. Originally home to a garage and machine shop, the open-plan bar and restaurant have kept the atmosphere of a 1930s garage.

Exposed brick and textured cement lend an authentic American workshop vibe, while the tall ceilings and ornate steel awnings open the space up, quite the opposite to a typical Aussie pub. Whether you’re looking to find a whiskey to pair with your crate of smoky soy truffle oysters or just want to enjoy a beer with a plate of classic fish and chips, Riley Street Garage is a pub where good food and drink can accompany each other without you needing to be an expert in either. parlourgroup.com.au/rileystgarage

Clockwise from top: Riley Street Garage’s shared bar and dining space; The restaurant is housed inside a 1930s mechanics garage in Woolloomooloo; The Whiskey and craft beer collection is one of Sydney’s best; Seared scallops in soy and truffle sauce

悉尼人对其酒吧美食总是意犹未尽，因此，每一间涌现于 周边的全新美食酒吧往往都会大受欢迎，这间专门供应牡 蛎和威士忌的美食酒吧更是如此。Riley Street Garage 位 于乌鲁姆鲁（Woolloomooloo），是一间中央公共酒吧， 这里有桶装手工精酿啤酒以及堆满整面墙的烈酒。而长长 的美式酒单，一定会让所有威士忌爱好者叹为观止。这里 曾经是车库和机械车间，开放式的酒吧和餐厅保留了20世 纪30年代车库的氛围。裸露的砖块和质地不平的水泥为这 里增添了正宗的美国车间气氛，而高高的天花板和华丽的 钢质遮阳篷则使整个空间显得十分开阔，与传统的澳洲酒 吧形成鲜明对比。无论您想来一杯威士忌搭配烟熏大豆松 露 牡 蛎，或 者只 想 品 尝 一 杯 啤 酒 搭 配 经 典 的 炸 鱼 薯 条，Riley Street Garage都能让您远离搭配的烦恼，轻松 享受专业的美食和美酒。 79

LOCA L CUISINE

中式料理

CHINESE CUISINE THE BEST OF THE

BEST DISHES IN THE MIDDLE KINGDOM There are certain dishes that make certain cuisines famous.

Have you met anyone that hasn’t heard of dim sum? Casey Hall visits the restaurants across China that have mastered these iconic foodie faves... 有些菜系因着某款菜品而闻名于世。全世界会有人不知道什 么是“点心”吗？凯西·霍尔（Casey Hall）走遍中国逐一品尝 这些经典菜品。

C

hinese food is world famous, and yet still rather an opaque art form to the uninitiated; a seemingly endless array of regional cuisines with completely different flavour profiles and specialty dishes. The invention of haute Chinese cuisine is also a relatively recent invention; Chinese food is traditionally enjoyed in groups, with dishes served family-style around a “re nao” – hot and noisy – table with little regard for presentation or mess.

More recently, a new generation of chefs and foodies have sought to create a modern Chinese food sphere that combines traditional dishes, with superior design, presentation and atmosphere. But even with this high-class nouveau food scene, finding the best of China’s varied cuisines can be a challenge to visitors.

To make the navigation of this new world easier for those with limited time and a desire to discover the very best of Chinese food in China, read on for an array of the restaurants in China known for serving a local specialty better than any other...

80

中

国美食举世闻名，但对其他国 家的人而言仍然充满了神秘的 色彩，各种地方美食看似无穷 无尽，呈现出完全不同的风味

和特色。 颇受欢迎的高级中式料理也是一个相 对较新的发明。从传统来看，中国人喜欢大 家聚在一起享用美食，一张桌子上“热闹” 地 摆 放着 各色 菜 肴，丝毫 不 考虑 摆 盘 和 格局。 最 近，新 一 代主 厨和美食家们创造出 一种现代的中国美食氛围，将传统菜肴与 出 色 的 设 计 、摆 盘 和 氛 围 完 美 融 合 在 一起。 即使是高级的全新风味美食，从不同菜 系中找到最好的中国菜对于游客来说也极 具挑战。为了让那些时间有限，但 又渴望 品尝最好中国菜的游客更容易发现新式美 食，我们为您推荐一系列因供应独特地方 风味而知名的中国餐厅。

LOCA L CUISINE

“THE MENU IS LOCAL, WITH A PARTICULARLY FAMOUS VERSION OF HONG SHAO ROU” FU 1088

福1088

Famous for: Hong Shao Rou 招牌菜：红烧肉 This grand former residence retains the colonial charm of 这间宏伟的故居保留了20世纪20年代上 海 殖民时期的风情，其16间包厢全部配 Shanghai in the 1920s, each of its 16 private dining rooms 有古董家具。这样的氛围可能会让您回想 fitted out with antique furnishings. The ambience might recall Shanghai’s international boom period, but the menu 起上海蜚声海外的繁荣时期，但是它的菜 单却极具地方特色，最为著名的便是红烧 is pretty local, with a particularly famous version of hong 肉，根据字面翻译就是“红色的烧肉”，由 shao rou, literally translated as “red roast meat”, a fatty 五花肉用红色糖醋酱汁烧制而成。餐厅制 roasted pork dish with a sweet and sour red sauce. It’s easy 作的酱汁很容易口味过重、过甜，但在福 for restaurants to be heavy handed with the flavour of the 1088，酱汁的味道却处理的很是精妙。午 sauce, making it too sweet, but at Fu 1088 the flavours 餐最低消费为人均300元人民币（不含酒 manage to remain subtle. There’s a minimum spend of 水），而晚餐最低消费为人均400元人民币 RMB 300 per person on food at lunch and RMB 400 per （不含酒水）。需要提前预订。 person on food at dinner time. Bookings are essential. 福 1 0 8 8 的 厨 房 团 队 共 有 四 名 大 厨， Altogether, the family-run Fu restaurant group 由知名主厨卢怿明（Tony Lu）领衔，其 includes four properties, helmed by acclaimed chef 中三人专注于上海本帮菜，而另一人专注 Tony Lu. Three of them specialise in Shanghai dishes 于中式素食——因雅致的食 材和 摆盘而 and the fourth features Chinese vegetarian food – and are known to the tasteful in both food and decor. > 闻名。 > 81

LOCA L CUISINE

JIANG BY CHEF FEI

Famous for: Dim Sum Though the Cantonese inhabitants of the southern metropolis of Guangzhou are renowned for “eating everything with four legs, except the table,” their favourite way to eat may be in the “dim sum” or “yum cha” tradition of small bites of a multitude of dishes.

The classiest dim sum in Guangzhou is very likely found at Jiang by Chef Fei – the Mandarin Oriental’s Cantonese restaurant. The flavours on display may be straightforward, but the creativity and presentation is anything but. Flavours include chicken feet, carp soup, shrimp dumplings and crab rice, but the star of Chef Fei’s dim sum are the deep fried savoury dumplings moulded to resemble swans, which are almost too intricately beautiful to eat. It’s easy to see here that dim sum is a culinary art form, and Chef Fei is the Leonardo da Vinci of the dim sum world.

Clockwise from top left: A very intimate setting at the Mandarin Oriental’s Cantonese dining offering, Jiang by Chef Fei; Singapore Black Pepper Crab; Chef Fei’s famous dim sum

82

江——由辉师傅主理 招牌菜：点心 虽 然 居 住 在中国南 部 城 市广州的广 东 人 以“ 地 上四条腿的，除了桌子 都能吃”而 闻名，但他们最喜欢的可能还是“点心”或 “饮茶”这种量小样多的传统饮食方式。 您 可 以在 文 华东 方 酒 店 的 粤 菜 餐厅 江——由辉师傅主理中品尝到最经典的广 州茶点。菜肴的味道可能很简单，但创意 和摆盘却绝不简单，大受欢迎的菜肴包括 凤爪、鲤鱼汤、虾饺和螃蟹炒饭，但是辉师 傅的星级茶点还是风味天鹅酥，一种被制 作成天鹅形状的点心。在这里，茶点也是一 种烹饪艺术。

“在这里，茶点也 是一种烹饪艺术”

LOCA L CUISINE

YI FENG COURT

Famous for: Hairy Crab Although local people love hairy crab, visitors to China often find the crustacean fussy and difficult to eat. If more of them experienced hairy crab at Yi Feng Court, they might just think it worth the trouble. Located on the banks of Yangcheng Lake, a 15-minute fast train from Shanghai in the municipality of Kunshan and one of the most famous sources of hairy crabs, this restaurant in the Fairmont Yangcheng Lake serves its sustainably farmed hairy crabs, pulled daily from the cold waters of the lake, steamed and accompanied by ginger and soy sauce. To eat, flip the crab and crack open the belly to reveal the creamy, orange roe before splitting the crab in half and getting at the chunkier portions of meat. Hairy crab is a seasonal dish only available in the autumn. >

颐丰阁 招牌菜：大闸蟹 尽管中国人很喜欢大闸蟹，但来中国的游 客 经常会感觉 这种甲壳类 生物 吃起 来很 不方便。如果这其中更多的人在颐丰阁吃 过大闸蟹，他们可能就会觉得这种烦恼很 是值得。颐丰阁位于阳澄湖湖畔，从上海 到昆山乘坐高铁只需要15分钟，这里是最

著名的大闸蟹产地之一。这间位于阳澄湖 费尔蒙酒店的餐厅，供应能够持续养殖的 大闸蟹，每天从冰冷的湖水中捕获、蒸熟、 搭配生姜和酱油享用。将螃蟹翻转过来， 打开腹部，露出奶油状的蟹黄，然后将螃 蟹分成两半，便可品尝厚实的蟹肉。滋味 无穷。大闸蟹是季节性菜肴，仅可在秋季 享用。 >

Clockwise from top: Yi Feng Court is known for its Hairy Crab; There’s plenty more to choose from on the menu, like Beancurd with crab roe

83

LOCA L CUISINE

玉芝兰 招牌菜：川式鱼汤 玉芝兰以一种曾经深受慈禧太后喜爱的罕 见中国兰花命名，由中央大厅、厨房和3间 仅可容纳18名宾客的包房组成，最顶层的 包房位于美丽的花园露台之上，在那里，您 可以与鸟儿交谈。预订虽然非常困难但却 十分必要，餐厅会给出详细的说明，帮助宾 客在住宅区的隐蔽之处找到餐厅的所在。 这里供应的是颇受欢迎的精美川菜，最 著名的是火辣的味道和火锅，并提供十余 道具怀石料理风格的菜肴。从精心安排的 16个冷盘开胃菜到雪梨甜品，玉芝兰的一 切菜肴在口味和摆盘上都很出色。然而用 鲤鱼搭配生姜、米酒、洋葱、胡椒和各种油 料经几小时慢炖而成的鱼汤才是一个特别 的亮点。

YU ZHI LAN

Famous for: Sichuanese Fish Soup Named after a rare Chinese orchid that was once a favourite of the Empress Dowager Cixi, Yu Zhi Lan consists of a central hall, a kitchen and just three private rooms seating a maximum of 18 guests. Top-floor rooms are off a lovely garden terrace area complete with talking birds.

Bookings are both hard to come by and essential – not least so the restaurant can give diners detailed instructions on how to find its hidden location in a residential compound.

This is the haute cuisine version of Sichuanese cuisine, most famous for its fiery flavours and hot pot, served kaiseki-style over 10 courses. From the opening course – a gorgeously arranged diamond of 16 cold appetisers – to the sweet course of snow pear, everything at Yu Zhi Lan is spectacular in both taste and presentation. The fish soup, however, which sees carp simmered for hours with ginger, rice wine, spring onion, pepper and a mixture of oils, is a particular highlight.

86

Clockwise from top left: The ornate tea room at Yu Zhi Lan has an old-world China feel to it; A dish featuring stonefish, which is steamed over the hot rocks sitting behind the dish; Delicate presentation of a leaf's skeleton forming a canopy over a dish at Yu Zhi Lan

LOCA L CUISINE

DA DONG

Famous for: Peking Duck So, you like your Peking duck served crispier and less fatty, without a side of tourist trap? Keep it simple – get your duck fix from one of Da Dong’s two Beijing locations (the famous duck chain has also opened a third outpost in Shanghai). Order a succulent whole duck, for RMB 198, and dip the slices into the provided granulated sugar on the side (this doesn’t sound as though it works, but it somehow does). Other sides included with an order of duck are crushed garlic, thin slivers of scallion, red turnips and cucumber.

If your desires extend beyond Peking Duck, you are also in luck; Da Dong boasts a 160-page menu that is itself a work of art, and the fried oysters in Sichuan pepper-salt come particularly recommended. The ambience at the original, 20-year-old location in Dongsishitiao is classically Chinese, with a bright, modern flair. Bookings are essential.

大董 招牌菜：北京烤鸭 去到大董位于北京的两家分店之一品尝烤鸭 （这间知名的烤鸭连锁店也在上海开设了 第3家分店），绝对不会让您掉进旅游陷阱 中，而是品尝到您喜欢的清脆少油北京烤 鸭。只需人民币198元便可享用一整只多汁 的烤鸭，用切成片的鸭肉蘸着额外提供的砂 糖即可享用（这听起来有点怪，但确实是这 么吃的）。搭配烤鸭的配料有蒜泥、葱丝、 红萝卜和黄瓜。 如果您想尝尝北京烤鸭之外的美食，您 也很幸运，大董长达160页的菜单本身就是 一件艺术作品，四川椒盐脆炸牡蛎是特别 推荐的菜肴。位于东四十条的老店已经有20 年历史，老店被打造为经典的中式氛围，搭 配着明亮的现代风格。需要提前预订。

“每天从冰冷的湖水 中捕获、蒸熟、搭配 生姜和酱油享用” TRY THESE LOCAL DELICACIES FU 1088 375 Zhenning Road, Jing’an District, Shanghai +86 21 5239 7878

Jiang by Chef Fei 3F, Mandarin Oriental, 389 Tianhe Road, Tianhe District, Guangzhou, mandarinoriental.com

Da Dong 1-2/F, Nanxincang International Plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing, dadongdadong.com

Yi Feng Court 3668 West Ma'anshan Road, Kunshan, Jiangsu Province, fairmont.com/yangchenglake-kunshan/dining

Yu Zhi Lan 24 Changfa Street, Qingyang District, Chengdu, +86 28 6249 1966

87

从农场到餐桌

FARM to FORK Driving through Australia’s countryside to explore some of the best wineries is a favourite weekend pastime for many locals. But Shaney Hudson gives us seven new reasons to head on a road trip...

澳大利亚最好的酒庄是许多本地人喜欢在周末驱车前往探索的原 因。山妮·哈德森（Shaney Hudson）发现了自驾游的新动力。

88

R EG I O N A L DININ G

地

方美食的崛起是澳大利亚餐饮业的一场胜利，令澳 大利亚最优秀的一些厨师跃跃欲试，使得乡村地区 逐渐转变为美食胜地。乡村地区有着大量的果蔬 园、历史悠久的餐厅和最新鲜的食材，让我们一起来探寻那 些被美食爱好者称为乌托邦的地区吧。

CIRCA 1876 猎人谷（Hunter Valley） 猎人谷是澳大利亚最古老的葡萄酒产区，游客们对这里的诸 多美食难以取舍。但并不是所有的餐厅都像Circa 1876一样 拥有悠久的历史。Circa 1876位于猎人谷标志性的Convent 酒店，您将在这里获得猎人谷最独特的美食体验之一。 “猎人谷的食材、氛围和历史使得在这里成为一名厨师显 得极为特别，”Circa 1876行政主厨特伦特·巴雷特（Trent Barrett）如是说道。他就在这间餐厅有着140年历史、经过重 新修缮的铁皮小屋里为食客提供用本地食材制作的一系列赏 味菜品。 巴雷特选用的食材来自这里一个很大的果蔬园（有自己的 蜂房）和许多当地的农民和种植者。巴雷特说： “食材直接从 我们的果蔬园里采摘，避免了运输，因此口感和质量更好。” “猎人谷当地的肉类非常特殊，我最喜欢的包括自由放养 的鹌鹑和鸭，还有一些非常特别的神户牛肉。” 这些食材在菜单上的各色菜品（如Two Parts Duck）中有 所体现，以煎鸭胸、慢煮鸭蛋、新鲜黑松露、松露土豆泥、芦 笋和西班牙火腿为特色。

>

T

he rise of regional fine dining has been a culinary triumph for country Australia, luring some of the nation’s most talented chefs and transforming rural centres into gastronomic destinations. With stocked kitchen gardens, historic venues and the promise of the freshest ingredients, we take a look at the regions that have become a food lover’s utopia.

Circa 1876

Hunter Valley

Australia’s oldest wine-producing region spoils visitors for choice when it comes to fine dining – but not all restaurants have the history of Circa 1876, one of the Hunter Valley’s most exclusive fine dining experiences on the grounds of the iconic Hunter property, The Convent.

“The produce, atmosphere and history throughout the Hunter Valley makes this a very special place to be a chef,” says executive chef Trent Barrett, who offers diners a locally sourced tasting menu in the restaurant’s 140-year-old restored ironbark cottage.

Barrett sources produce from an extensive on-site kitchen garden complete with its own beehives, as well as a number of local farmers and growers. “Produce straight from our gardens has no food miles and delivers more taste and quality,” says Barrett.

“The local meats in the valley are very special and my favorites include sustainably free range farmed quail, duck and some very special wagyu beef.”

These ingredients are showcased on the menu in dishes such as Two Parts Duck, featuring seared duck breast, slow cooked duck egg, fresh black truffle, truffle potato foam, asparagus and jamón.

64 Halls Road, Pokolbin NSW 2320 convent.com.au

>

Left to right: Zucchini flowers from Chef Barrett’s garden; Interior of the historic Convent home where Circa 1876 is housed; Zucchini three-ways

89

R EG I O N A L DININ G

Sault

Daylesford

Home to the largest concentration of natural mineral springs in Australia, Daylesford’s nutrient-rich soil makes it utopia for food growers, winemakers and chefs, including Peter Knibb, who left the Michelin-starred kitchens of Europe to take the reins as head chef of Sault restaurant.

“The Daylesford area is really very special. Everyone seems to be so enthusiastic about the great seasonal and organic produce and either selling it or turning it into something amazing.”

The seasonally driven modern Australian menu at Sault includes dishes such as the Hopkins River beef oyster blade, which is slow cooked for 48 hours with honey and caraway glazed carrots, Jerusalem artichokes and red wine jus, and Bomba rice with Clarence River prawn, hazelnut romesco and prawn essence.

90

Knibb, who started his own kitchen garden this year, views the growth of regional fine dining as success for everyone: “I think its really a win-win situation for everybody: you have the local farmers producing some amazing things, which will support local communities. The chefs are inspired to create something special with those ingredients, which in turn will create, hopefully, happy diners that will want to return and keep the restaurants busy.”

2349 Ballan Daylesford Road, VIC 3460 sault.com.au

This page: Sault’s dining room overlooking the lavender farm; The historic homestead home of Sault; White chocolate and lemon fondant

SAULT 戴尔斯福德（Daylesford） 戴尔斯福德是澳大利亚最大的天然矿泉聚集地，这里土壤肥 沃，对种植者、醇酒师和厨师来说简直就是一座乌托邦。米 其林星级餐厅主厨彼得·尼布（Peter Knibb）就离开欧洲， 来到这里的Sault餐厅担任主厨。 “戴尔斯福德地区真的很特别，这里的每个人似乎对季节 性有机农产品充满了热情，有的进行农产品销售，有的则进 行农产品加工。” Sault的菜品受季节性影响很大，特色菜品有霍普金斯河 （Hopkins River）和嫩肩牛肉（加入蜂蜜、葛缕子霜胡萝卜、 洋姜和红酒汁小火慢炖48个小时）以及邦巴米饭（搭配克拉 伦斯河虾、榛子酱与虾油）。 尼布今年拥有了自己的果蔬园，他把地方美食的发展看作 所有人的成功： “我觉得这对每个人来说都是一个双赢的局 面，当地农民种植农作物来供应当地社区，厨师们从中汲取 灵感，用这些食材打造一些特别的菜品，从而吸引食客开心 前来，使得这里餐厅的生意红红火火。”

R EG I O N A L DININ G

Pipeclay Pumphouse Mudgee

The emergence of Mudgee as a foodie destination is one of regional Australia’s epicurean success stories.

“The whole scene has changed,” says Andy Crestani, head chef of Pipeclay Pumphouse, which opened in Mudgee in October 2013.

“There’s a whole plethora of food varieties that you can get from Mudgee now, whereas five years ago there was a very limited selection of what we could source.”

For Crestani, the transformation from wine region to culinary destination has a touch of inevitability: “Food and wine go hand in hand; if you know about wine, you know about food, and that helped us grow.”

Located in a historic building overlooking a lake on the Robert Stein Vineyard & Winery, the menu at Pipeclay Pumphouse draws on not only Crestani’s Italian heritage, but also the French influence gained from working in metropolitan and European kitchens.

Pipeclay Pumphouse’s kitchen is fuelled with local produce but also uses Crestani’s own livestock, with around 130 head of pigs on the farm providing fresh meat for the menu, featuring in dishes like as Pork rillette with orange and hazelnut salt, as well as charcuterie including prosciuttos and salamis.

Pipeclay Lane, Budgee Budgee NSW 2850 pipeclaypumphouse.com.au

>

PIPECLAY PUMPHOUSE 玛吉（Mudgee） 玛吉一跃成为美食胜地，而这只是澳大利亚各个地区所获成功 的一个缩影。Pipeclay Pumphouse于2013年10月开业，主厨安 迪·克里塔尼（Andy Crestani）表示： “这里的一切都变了。现 在玛吉的食材品种很全，而五年前我们的选择却非常有限。” 克里塔尼认为玛吉从葡萄酒产区到美食胜地的转变是不 可避免的： “美食与美酒从不分家。哪里有美酒，哪里就有美 食，这就是我们不断发展的原因。” Pipeclay Pumphouse位于一座有着悠久历史的建筑当 中，可以俯瞰Robert Stein Vineyard & Winery酒庄的湖 泊。这间餐厅的菜品不仅受到意式餐厅的影响，同时由于克 里塔尼曾经在欧洲的许多城市和餐厅工作过，因此也受到法 式餐厅的影响。 Pipeclay Pumphouse餐厅用的都是当地农产品，也有克 里塔尼自己养殖的家畜。他的农场里大约有130头猪，可以为 餐厅供应新鲜猪肉（特色菜品有猪肉酱配橙子和榛子粉）和 熟食（意大利熏火腿和萨拉米香肠）。 > This page: Venison carpaccio; The team at Pipeclay raises over 130 pigs that feature in its menu; The dining room looks out over a small dam

91

R EG I O N A L DININ G

ZIN HOUSE

Zin House Mudgee

While many chefs head overseas to hone their skills, Kim Currie has spent her entire career as a champion of regional produce and fine dining. Head chef and owner of Zin House in Mudgee, her approach towards food is simple: “Cook simply from scratch with what we and other locals grow.”

Each week, Zin House’s menu lists the ingredients sourced from Tinja, her 1,000-acre, certified organic and biodynamic farm, as well as local suppliers, which are then used to create dishes such as Orecchiette pasta with nettle pesto, confit onion and feta; as well as a beetroot and pomegranate tartare with walnut cream.

92

For Currie, relationships with local producers are at the core of her business – she has worked with some producers, like her hazelnut suppliers, for over three decades.

“Regions have gone from being maligned for bad coffee and nowhere to eat to hero destinations of excellence,” Currie says. Both Zin House – and her new food venture, Craigmoor Pavilion, which opened at the beginning of 2017, also offer something back to the local community in terms of employment: “It’s a big responsibility, but satisfying to create so much economic benefit to a community as well.”

329 Tinja Lane, Mudgee, NSW 2000 zinhouse.com.au

玛吉（Mudgee） 虽然很多厨师都前往海外磨练自己的厨艺，但同样作为厨师 的金·柯里（Kim Currie），她的整个职业生涯都使用当地的 农产品制作美味的菜品。作为Zin House餐厅的老板兼主厨， 她对食物的理解很简单： “就简单地使用我们和其他当地人 种植的食材。” 柯里拥有的Tinja农场面积达1,000英亩，采用活机耕作法， 出产的都是经过认证的有机农产品。每个星期，Zin House都 从这个农场和当地的供应商那里获取食材制作各种菜品，如 猫耳朵意面配荨麻酱、洋葱和奶酪；以及甜菜根和石榴鞑靼 牛肉配核桃糊。 对柯里而言，与当地供应商的关系对于她的餐厅生意至关 重要——她与其中一些食材（如榛子）供应商的合作已经有 三十余年的时间。 “玛吉已经摆脱没有好喝的咖啡和好吃的餐厅这样为人 诟病的困境，成为卓越餐饮的胜地。”柯里的Zin House以及 于2017年初刚刚开业尝试经营的Craigmoor Pavillion，也 提供了一些就业机会，以此来回馈当地社区： “这是一个巨大 的责任，但同时也为社区创造了经济利益，这让人感觉非常 满足。”

This page: Tomato and basil lasagne; The menu uses only vegetables and herbs grown on-site

R EG I O N A L DININ G

EXP.

Hunter Valley

Opened in March 2015 on the grounds of Oakvale Wines in Pokolbin, EXP. strives to be as local as possible – from the cream cultured butter infused with toasted hay made with milk from nearby Udder Farm dairy to the locally made furniture and handcrafted ceramics on which the food is plated.

“Food is at the heart of EXP. and the menu is driven by the seasons,” says owner and head chef Frank Fawkner. “The team sources local produce where possible, with quality always being the key.”

Hailing from the Hunter region, Fawkner worked in London before returning to open his own fine dining restaurant, EXP. “For me, as a chef, the region is great. There is an abundance

of local producers and artists to work with, and our clientele are here on a food and wine journey.”

EXP.’s exceptional menu features dishes like Nabia Farm mushrooms and calamari with lemon myrtle and egg yolk.

Dishes are prepared in an open kitchen, while Fawkner’s methods also include scouring the area for fresh ingredients.

“We also forage local plants like sea weed, dune spinach, mallow, nasturtium and wild fennel to garnish all of the dishes on the menu.”

1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin NSW 2320 exprestaurant.com.au

>

This page: EXP’s talented young chefs; Duck ham, fig and goat’s curd; EXP. is hosted inside Oakvale Wines

EXP. 猎人谷（Hunter Valley） 于2 015年 3月在波高尔宾（Po ko l b i n）的O kava l e Wines酒庄开业的EXP.力求尽可能的体现出地方特色， 如使用附近Udder Farm的牛奶制作的发酵奶油馅饼、 地方特色家具和盛放食物用的手工陶瓷器具。 “食物是EXP.的关键，菜品则根据季节而定，”老板 兼主厨弗兰克·福克纳（Frank Fawkner）说。“我们 尽可能地使用当地的食材，并且始终把品质放在第一 位。” 福克纳来自猎人谷，之前曾在伦敦工作，后来回到猎 人谷自己开了EXP.这家美食餐厅。 “对于作为厨师的我来说，猎人谷简直是太棒了。许 多当地的供应商和艺术家都和我们一起工作，共同为我 们的客户打造完美的美食和美酒之旅。” EXP.的特色菜品有Nabia农场蘑菇、鱿鱼配柠檬香 桃木和蛋黄。所有的菜品都在一个开放式厨房中制作， 而福克纳还努力在当地寻找更多新鲜食材。 “我们还在当地寻找海藻、番杏、锦葵、金莲花、野茴 香等植物作为配菜。” > 93

R EG I O N A L DININ G

Ezard @ Levantine Hill Yarra Valley

Teage Ezard has been a stalwart of the Melbourne fine dining scene for decades, but the opening of Ezard at Levantine Hill in the Yarra Valley brought a new pedigree of restaurant to the cool climate wine region. For Ezard, opening a kitchen in a regional area yields significant advantages.

“Firstly, the guests come because they want to come – it’s a destination.

For Levantine Hill, we feel fortunate because we deliver an outstanding product in an incredibly scenic and beautiful location,” Ezard says.

“And as we are rural we rely very much on the local soil and purveyors to

deliver us such wonderful produce that other city chefs only dream about.”

Ezard offers a five- and eight-course degustation menu matched to wine in his signature restaurant, featuring European-influenced dishes made with locally sourced ingredients such as Smoked Eildon trout with apple & cucumber and sweets such as pear, honey and sunflower ice cream.

For Ezard, the strength of the farm-to-fork movement is heartening: “It’s quite romantic in the sense that (what) was old is new again.”

882 (Entrance via Hill Road) Maroondah Highway, Coldstream VIC 3770; levantinehill.com.au

LEVANTINE HILL 亚拉河谷（Yarra Valley） 数十年来，提格·伊扎德（Teage Ezard）一直是墨尔本美食 界的中坚力量。然而，亚拉河谷Ezard @ Levantine Hill的开 业却为这个凉爽气候葡萄酒产区带来了一种新的餐厅形式。 在伊扎德看来，在这个区域开餐厅有着明显的优势。 “首先，客人来这里的原因是因为他们想来，这里是他们 的目的地。能够在Levantine Hill酒庄这样一个美得令人难以 置信的地方开一家很棒的餐厅让我们觉得非常幸运，”伊扎 德说道。 “而且由于地处乡村，我们对当地的种植者和供应商非常 依赖，他们为我们提供这么好的食材，而其他城市的厨师则 只有想想的份儿了。” 在他的招牌餐厅里，伊扎德为您带来了五道菜和八道菜的 品尝菜单，适合搭配葡萄酒一起品尝，以使用当地食材具有 欧洲风格的菜品为特色，如埃尔登熏鲑鱼搭配苹果和黄瓜， 以及梨、蜂蜜、葵花籽冰淇淋等甜食。 对伊扎德来说， “从农场到餐桌”运动影响之深远令人振奋 不已： “旧的传统再掀新潮，这让人觉得非常有情调”。

This page: Private wine-barrel-enclosed dining tables are the centrepiece of the dining room; Smoked ora king salmon

94

R EG I O N A L DININ G

TARRAWARRA 亚拉河谷（Yarra Valley） 在Ta r raWa r ra酒庄新的酒窖引起亚拉河谷的关注的 同时，这 里的餐厅则在 厨师长 特 洛伊·史宾 赛（ Troy Spencer）及其团队（包括已经合作了很长时间的副厨师 长西蒙·卡利斯（Simon Kalis））的带领下继续闪耀。 “旅行的人显然是想寻找一些不同的东西，”卡利斯 说， “人们总是想突破自己，做点儿与众不同的事情。” 几乎所有的蔬菜和水果都是酒庄里种植的，其中的柑 橘园和李子树每年的产量都有100多公斤。许多食材都保 存起来以便在一年四季使用，其中包括玉米喂的鸡，去年 的无花果、杏仁和韭葱。其余的食材也都来源于当地，包 括松露、鳟鱼、野味和黑猪。 “您会觉得充分利用能够获得的食材是一种责任。”卡利斯 说，他认为在地方餐厅工作会迫使厨师团队更有创造力。 “在城市里，供应商会亲自上门供应各种各样的食材，而 在这里，季节性迫使我们要打破常规。”

TarraWarra Yarra Valley

While the new cellar door at TarraWarra has been getting lots of attention in the Yarra Valley, the estate’s restaurant continues to shine under the helm of chef Troy Spencer and his team, including long-time collaborator and sous chef Simon Kalis.

“If people are travelling they obviously are looking for something different,” says Kalis. “You want to push the boundaries of what you put on the plate and do something unique.”

Almost all vegetables and fruit are grown on the estate, including a citrus grove and plum tree that yields over 100kg of fruit each season. Much of the

produce is preserved for use year round in dishes including cornfed chicken with last season figs, almond and leek.

The rest of the ingredients are sourced locally, including truffles, trout, wild venison and black pigs. “You have a sense of responsibility to be utilising what’s available,” says Kalis, who believes working in a regional kitchen forces the team to be more creative.

“You’ve got suppliers in the city knocking on your door offering all these wild and wonderful things... whereas here, the seasons force you to think outside the square.”

311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Road, Yarra Glen, VIC, 3775 tarrawarra.com.au 95

SHANGHAI

“ SOBER SOCIET Y R ECEN TLY OPEN ED A SECR ET BA R W ITHIN ITS BA R CA LLED TIPSY ”

Above: Not only one of China’s, but also one of the world’s, finest bartenders, Atushi Suzuki, in his office

上海鸡尾酒的故事

SHANGHAI Cocktail Tales

近年来，上海已成为中国无可争议的鸡尾酒之都和全球公 认的鸡尾酒胜地。我们采访了走在这个行业前沿的五位调 酒师，他们有的来自隐秘的私人酒吧，有的则来自豪华的 酒店酒吧。 In recent years, Shanghai has risen to become China’s undisputed cocktail capital and a globally recognised drinks destination.

We meet five bartenders at the forefront of the city’s booming cocktail scene, from hidden speakeasies to plush luxury hotel bars Words and photography: Dave Tacon

铃木淳 ATSUSHI SUZUKI Sober Society/Speak Low

从

东京移居上海的铃木淳在上海鸡 尾酒 行业 颇受推 崇。七月，作为 Speak Low和Sober Company 的首席调酒师，33岁的铃木淳荣获芝华士 鸡尾酒大师赛（Chivas Global Masters Cocktail Competition）冠军。 他的获奖鸡尾酒为“Double Talk” （120元） ，重制经典的尼格罗尼，使用两份芝华士12年 取代金酒，再加入各一份的甜味美思和金巴 利。 “这款酒的名子借鉴了中国人在干杯前 用酒杯底碰 桌子两次的习俗。”D o u b l e Talk装饰的抹茶粉和盐是为了向“Speak Low”致敬。这款鸡尾酒的创作灵感源于日 本茶道，使铃木淳的朋友后闲信吾（Shingo G o ka n）赢得了2 012年传 世鸡尾酒大赛 （Baca rd i G l oba l Leg acy Coc k ta i l Competition）的冠军。后闲信吾一半时间 在纽约，一半时间在上海，是2017年年度国 际调酒师（International Bartender of the Year）的冠军获得者。2013年Speak Low开业时，他邀请铃木淳前往上海。这间 隐藏在书架后面的四层酒吧目前在亚洲最有 影响力的50佳酒吧中排名第2位、全球排名 第15位。去年开业的Sober Society就位于 Sober Café和Sober Kitchen楼上，在亚洲 最有影响力的50佳酒吧中排名第19位。这两 间酒吧的特色是日式优质服务、世界一流的 鸡尾酒和爵士时代的配乐和装饰风格。 >

T

okyo transplant Atsushi Suzuki is the toast of the Shanghai cocktail scene. In July, Suzuki, 33, group head bartender of Speak Low and Sober Company, won the Chivas Global Masters Cocktail Competition.

His winning drink was “Double Talk” (RMB 120), a riff on the classic Negroni which substitutes gin for two parts Chivas Regal 12 to one part each of Martini Bianco and Campari. “The name is a reference to the Chinese custom of the ‘double tap’ of the bottom of glasses on a bar before ganbei [emptying one’s glass in a single gulp].” Double Talk’s garnish of matcha tea powder and salt is a tribute to “Speak Low”, a drink based on the Japanese tea ceremony that won Atsushi’s friend Shingo Gokan the Bacardi Global Legacy Cocktail Competition in 2012.

Gokan, who divides his time between New York City and Shanghai, is the reigning International Bartender of the Year. He invited Suzuki to Shanghai in 2013 for the launch of Speak Low. This four-level bar, hidden behind a bookcase, is currently ranked at number two on the influential Asia’s 50 Best Bars list and 15th in the world. Sober Society, which opened last year upstairs from Sober Cafe and Sober Kitchen, debuted at number 19 on the Asia list. Both bars are defined by a Japanese sensibility of service, worldclass cocktails and a soundtrack and decor straight out of the Jazz Age. > 97

SHANGHAI

洪伟威 DAVID HONG Second Moment/Tailor Bar

2

6 岁的 洪 伟 威 已 经 成 为上 海 最 好 的 调 酒 师之一。洪伟 威于2 011年 在 上 海波特曼丽思卡尔顿 酒店接受调 酒 师 培 训，后来 在 柏 林 柏 灵丽 思卡 尔顿 酒 店的Cu r ta i n Ba r出师。今天，他已经成 为一位全球知名的调酒师。他最近新开的 Second Moment是一间隐藏在湘菜馆 Spicy Moment后面的小酒吧。 “我觉得这个酒吧非常适合闲聊——这里 的大多数顾客都是本地人，”洪伟威一边 说，一边调制着“Far East Sour” （78元） 。这款鸡尾酒体现了洪伟威对出人意料的口 味组合的特殊偏好。其中加入等量的伏特 加、清酒和单糖浆，以及整个蛋清、少许桃 子苦味酒和桂花，酸甜平衡、口感松软。 洪伟威说自己在欧洲的那段时间了解了 味道的搭配，但现在他更加强调日本鸡尾 酒调制技术的严谨性。“搅拌时间的长短 真的能改变一款酒的口感，适可而止才是 王道。” 98

A

t 26, David Hong has already established himself as one of Shanghai’s best bartenders. He trained in Shanghai at the Portman Ritz-Carlton in 2011 and later honed his craft at The Curtain Bar at the RitzCarlton Berlin. Today he’s a globally in-demand guest bartender. He recently opened Second Moment, a small bar hidden behind Hunan restaurant Spicy Moment.

“I’d describe this place as a quality neighbourhood speakeasy bar – most of my customers are locals,” Hong says as he mixes a Far East Sour (RMB 78). The drink is typical of Hong’s penchant for surprising flavour combinations. Equal parts vodka, sake and simple syrup, a whole egg white, a dash of peach bitters and a garnish of osmanthus blossoms, it has a sweet/sour balance and a soft and fluffy mouth feel.

Hong credits his time in Europe with helping him learn about matching flavours, but is now putting greater emphasis on the technical rigour of Japanese cocktail mixing. “Just knowing when to stop stirring can really change the mouth feel of a spirit,” he says.

“J UST K NOW ING W HEN TO STOP STIR R ING CA N R E A LLY CH A NGE THE MOU TH FEEL OF A SPIR IT ” Clockwise from above: David Hong will be working his magic at the all-new bar, Second Moment; Shaking things up, Moe is changing people’s perceptions of bartenders commonly being male

SHANGHAI

吉利安·沃斯 JILLIAN Module

女

性开始大举进入调酒师这个男性 主导的传统行业。位于纽约的全球 最佳酒吧The Dead Rabbit的首 席调酒师吉利安·沃斯（Jillian Vose）就是一 位女性。沃斯在蒙古出生，在日本长大，她凭 借自己的努力开了这间舒适的酒吧，外面立 着一个兵马俑保护着这个没有窗子的店面。 Module可容纳12名顾客，酒单上共有10 款原创鸡尾酒，价格均为人民币90元。不过， 客人可以随意品尝适合自己口味的酒款，也 可以点一杯经典鸡尾酒，其中莫伊最喜欢的 是“血腥玛丽” （Bloody Mary）。 “我非常 喜欢这款酒！我的记录是在El Coctel喝了11 杯。”El Coctel是上海鸡尾酒中的翘楚，而 沃斯的秘方则同样使用新鲜的西红柿，但混 入自己泡制的伏特加：一半有松露油的味道， 一半则是西芹、香菜、辣椒和大蒜的味道。最 终调制出的鸡尾酒口感丰富、十分美味，有着 类似西班牙凉菜汤的奇特风味。由于她的酒 吧 越 来 越 受 欢 迎 ，沃 斯 最 近 新 加 了“Module X”，这是一个隐藏的休息区，有 舒服的真皮沙发。 “商务人士可以在这里开一 瓶威士忌放松一下。” >

“搅拌时间的长短 真的能改变一款酒 的口感，适可而止 才是王道”

F

emale bartenders are starting to make major inroads into what has traditionally been a male-dominated industry. Reigning World’s Best Bar, NYC’s The Dead Rabbit, is helmed by a woman, Jillian Vose. Meanwhile, in Shanghai, Mongolian-born, Japanese-raised Moe (pronounced Mo-ee) is blazing her own trail with a cosy bar behind a windowless shopfront with a terracotta warrior standing guard outside.

Module, which seats up to 12 customers, offers a menu of 10 original cocktails, all priced at RMB 90. Guests are, however, free to have drinks tailored to their tastes or order a classic cocktail, of which Moe’s favourite is the Bloody Mary. “I love it! My record for drinking Bloody Marys is 11,” she says. Moe’s secret recipe uses fresh tomatoes, but mixed with her own infused vodkas: one flavoured with truffle oil, the other with celery, parsley, chilli and garlic.

The result is delicious and rich – a kind of fancy alcoholic gazpacho.

Due to the growing popularity of her bar, Moe recently opened Module X, a hidden lounge area with leather couches. “Business men can open a bottle of whiskey here,” she says. > 99

SHANGHAI

“ I’M IN FLU ENCED BY CL ASSIC COCK TA ILS , BU T LIK E TO USE CHIN ESE INGR EDIEN TS TO CR E ATE N E W FL AVOU RS ” 100

SHANGHAI

安鹏程 DANIEL AN Antique by Taste Buds

A

ntique by Taste Buds位于孙中山和 蒋介石故居附近的一栋别墅的顶层， 其前身是位于时尚的武康路的Taste Buds。白天，它是古董花园咖啡馆（一直保 持着独特的古董店+咖啡馆的风格）的一部 分。而晚上7点开始，上海最具创造力的一位 调酒师就开始准备各种鸡尾酒了。 29岁的安鹏程是由委内瑞拉朗姆酒品 牌Diplomatico举办的世界朗姆酒大赛 （World Diplomatico Tournament）的中国 区冠军，也曾荣获数个上海最佳调酒师大奖。 “我受经典鸡尾酒的影响比较深，但喜欢 用中国原料打造新的口味，”安鹏程表示。安 鹏程在河南长大，然后来到上海接受意大利 调酒师的培训。 安鹏程的招牌鸡尾酒是“Tale of Mulata” （88元），他的这款代表作在辣椒中注入陈年 朗姆酒、巧克力糖浆、巧克力苦味酒、酸橙、 罗勒和花椒。在包裹着Diplomatico朗姆酒 标签的酒杯中，精美地呈现在顾客的面前， 并 饰 以 薄 荷、金 叶、玫 瑰 花 瓣，Ta l e o f Mulata口味丰富复杂、余韵辛辣悠长。 >

T

he newest incarnation of Taste Buds, formerly on trendy Wukang Road, is on the top floor of a 1921 villa near the former residences of Sun Yat-Sen and Chiang Kai-Shek. By day it’s part of Antique Garden Cafe, a long-running coffee shop/ antique store hybrid. From 7pm, cocktails are prepared by one of Shanghai’s most inventive bartenders.

Daniel An, 29, China winner of 2015’s World Diplomatico Tournament held by the Venezuelan rum brand, also has a couple of best Shanghai mixologist awards in his trophy cabinet.

“I’m influenced by classic cocktails, but like to use Chinese ingredients to create new flavours,” says An, who grew up in Henan Province and was trained in Shanghai by Italian bartenders.

One of An’s signature drinks is Tale of Mulata (CNY 88), a tour de force with chilli-infused aged rum, chocolate syrup, chocolate bitters, lime, basil and Sichuan pepper. Beautifully presented in a glass wrapped in Diplomatico rum labels and garnished with mint, gold leaf and rose petals, Tale of Mulata is richly complex with a long spicy finish. >

Left to right: Daniel An embraces both East and West influences when creating cocktails; A Tale of Mulata cocktail, a rum-based cocktail by Daniel An, 29, bartender and co-owner of Antique

by Taste Buds, a cocktail bar upstairs from Antique Garden Cafe on Sinan Road.

“我受经典鸡尾酒的影响 比较深，但喜欢用中国原 料打造新的口味” 101

SHANGHAI

1 02

SHANGHAI

何晓昶 JACKAEL HE 丽嘉阁 The Ritz Bar & Lounge

E

ncore是一间隐藏在新天地附近一家花园 的酒吧，门上没有标牌。作为Encore的老 板兼首席调酒师，34岁的上海本地人何晓 昶成名已久。作为上海经营时间最长的豪华酒店 之一，上海波曼丽思卡尔顿酒店于一年前对其酒 吧进行改造，他们邀请颇有天赋的何晓昶为他 们打造鸡尾酒单。丽嘉阁由设计上海中心大厦的 美国建筑设计公司Gensler操刀，其设计令人想 起老上海的装饰艺术风格。 他也承认“在酒店的酒水单中加上一款不同 寻常的鸡尾酒是有点冒险”。酒店酒吧对鸡尾酒 往往慎之又慎，但何晓昶酒单上的鸡尾酒十分 独特，其中包括Smoke Jumper（98元+15%服 务费），口感酸甜，烟雾缭绕，用45毫升赎金干 金酒、15毫升查特黄香甜酒、25毫升新鲜柠檬 汁和22毫升自制的武夷山正山小种红茶（一种 有独特松烟香味的福建名茶）糖浆调制而成。 何晓昶还为特别敢于冒险的顾客调制了上 海特色风味的特别酒款，如Shanghai Dirty Martini，使用咸的黄酒代替咸水橄榄。 “我的 奶奶可能会喜欢这款酒。” 当然，菜单上不乏深受喜爱的经典鸡尾酒，还 包括诸如牡蛎和鱼子酱之类的奢华小吃。 Left to right: Local Shanghainese Jackeal He in action; He likes to present his drinks in an elaborate fashion, such as this Shady Lady, pictured; And has now found a home at the recently renovated Portman Ritz-Carlton

“丽嘉阁由设计上海中心大厦的美国 建筑设计公司Gensler操刀，其设计 令人想起老上海的装饰艺术风格”

S

hanghai native Jackeal He, 34, made a name for himself as owner and head bartender of Encore, a hidden bar behind an unmarked door in a garden near fashionable Xintiandi. When the Portman Ritz-Carlton, one of Shanghai’s longestrunning luxury hotels, revamped their hotel bar a year ago, they brought in He to bring his creative flair to the cocktail menu. US architecture firm Gensler, which also designed the Shanghai Tower, evokes a sense of old Shanghai with Art Deco-inspired design.

“It’s a risk to put an unusual cocktail on a hotel bar menu,” He admits. Hotel bars tend to err on the side of caution when it comes to cocktails, but He’s menu includes unique mixes such as Smoke Jumper (RMB 98 + 15% service charge), sweet, sour and smoky with 45ml Ransom Dry Gin, 15ml of Yellow Chartreuse, 25ml of fresh lime juice and 22ml of house-made Lapsang Souchong syrup, which distills the essence of the smoky flavoured tea from Fujian Province.

For daring drinkers, He has invented tipples using flavours unique to Shanghai – such as a Shanghai Dirty Martini, which uses salty yellow wine instead of olive brine. “It’s something my grandmother would love,” He says. Well-loved classics still feature on the menu, which also includes decadent snacks such as oysters and caviar.

103

104

现代中餐厅

MODERN MARVELS Long gone are the days of golden dragons, red lanterns and green bamboo. Lisa Perkovic checks out the venues, chefs and signature dishes of Australia’s top modern Chinese restaurants 金光闪闪的龙、火红的灯笼、翠绿的竹子，这样的 时代早已不复存在。丽莎·佩尔科维奇 （Lisa Perkovic）遍寻澳大利亚顶级现代中餐厅， 采访那里的厨师，盘点他们的招牌菜。

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

T

here’s been a changing of the guard in Australia’s Chinese dining scene. Top chefs are turning their hands to transforming the country’s local Chinese restaurant into a modern dining experience. High end, family style, yum cha, degustation – nothing is out of bounds for these inventive venues.

JADE TEMPLE, SYDNEY

Neil Perry’s laser beam focus on Asian fare is nothing new – the celebrity chef’s Spice Temple has occupied a high perch on Sydney’s fine dining scene for a long time.

Now, the chef’s latest venue expands his empire towards Cantonese cooking, calling on the delicate flavours of spice. While Spice Temple shines a light on smaller regions like Hunan and Yunnan, Jade Temple is where the chefs play with simple, subtle dishes.

The venue Perry has a penchant for bringing the bare 106

bones of some of Sydney’s most beautiful buildings back to life. Jade Temple is no different. Located at 11 Bridge Street, inside the heritage Burns Philip & Co building, the restaurant fuses original Romanesque and late Victorian features with Chinese nostalgia. The large arched doorway and windows are flanked by modern lights that resemble rattan bird cages, alongside original columns, bamboo cocktail carts and plantation shutters. Cast iron Chinese lions sit guarding the entrance, just beyond the elaborately carved local sandstone façade.

The cuisine Produce is king when it comes to Perry’s kitchens. Local, sustainable produce is put front and centre, with high-end producers like Bangalow free range pork, Bannockburn free range chicken, Tasmanian Cape Grim grass-fed beef and hand dived Bruce Collins scallops making an appearance.

The ingredients are used to rework retro

Cantonese dishes; “it’s a little bit tongue-incheek, a little bit cheeky, and customers seem to be enjoying that journey or rediscovering some of their old favourites,” Perry says.

The team With a vast restaurant portfolio, Perry also knows how to pull together a team to carry the torch. Head chef Peter Robertson keeps the kitchen in tight order, with Perry leading the culinary and creative development.

There’s also dim sum master Moon Kuen Ng, who is already gaining attention for the lunchtime dim sum sharing menu.

The standout dish Rather than replicating the classics, Perry’s team is putting a new spin on things. The Peking duck, hanging up to dry for three days on site, is already the talk of the town, but there’s also a lemon chicken and Mongolian lamb that are standouts too. jadetemple.com.au

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

在澳大利亚，中餐厅的面貌一直在发生着变 化。这里的顶级厨师们正努力为澳大利亚当 地的中餐厅打造一种现代的餐饮体验。高端 风格、家庭风格、茶餐厅、赏味风格——他们 的创意似乎没有任何束缚。

悉尼JADE TEMPLE餐厅 尼 尔·佩 里（ N e i l P e r r y）非 常 热 衷于亚 洲 菜 并 不 是 什 么 新 鲜 事 ，这 位 名 厨 的 Spice Temple已经在悉尼的高端餐饮行业 有很长一段时间了。现在，这位名厨又把粤菜 纳入到自己的餐饮帝国当中，主张用量精而 细，配料多而巧。Spice Temple菜品的特色 为湘菜和云南菜，而Jade Temple菜品的特 色则是简单、精致。 佩 里非常喜欢 重新打造 悉尼最美丽的一些 建 筑，让 它 们 重 新 焕 发 勃 勃 生 机 。J a d e T e m p l e 也 不 例 外 。这 家 餐 厅 位 于 桥 街 （B r i d g e St）11号有着 悠 久 历史 的 B u r n s Philip & Co大楼内，这座建筑融合了初期罗 马建筑的风格、后维多利亚时代建筑的风格， 以及怀旧的中国风格。巨大的拱形门廊和窗 户两旁都是类似藤鸟笼的现代灯饰，旁边还 有原建筑的柱子、竹制鸡尾酒推车和种植园 风格的百叶窗。餐厅门口有中式铸铁狮子守 护着，不远处就是餐厅精心雕刻的砂岩立面。 美食 在佩里的厨房里，食材就是王道。这家餐厅主 要使用当地的可持续食材来制作菜肴，其中 包括许多高端食材，如班加罗（Bangalow） 自由放养的猪肉、班诺克（Bannockburn） 自 由 放 养 的 鸡 肉 、塔 斯 马 尼 亚 格 里 姆 角（Ca pe G r i m）草饲牛肉和野生B r uce Collins扇贝。这些食材用来再现经典的粤菜。 佩里说道， “虽然有点像开玩笑，有点不可思 议，但顾客似乎很享受这个过程，或者说是重 新发现了旧日的美好”。

“HIGH END, YUM CHA, NOTHING IS OUT OF BOUNDS FOR THESE INVENTIVE VENUES”

团队 佩里拥有许多家餐厅，他很了解如何组建团队 来将其发扬光大。厨师长Peter Robertson 负责厨房里的一切，而Neil则负责推广和创 意。这里还有一位点心大师Moon Kuen Ng， 他的午餐点心系列很受食客们的关注。 特色菜品 佩里的团队不满足于复制经典，他们更喜欢 创新。烤制前需要用三天时间风干的北京烤 鸭令食客赞口不绝，其他特色菜品还有柠檬 鸡和葱爆羊肉。 >

Clockwise from left: Moody interiors of Sydney’s latest Cantonese offering, Jade Temple; You’ll get a taste of updated classics like Honey prawns, Prawn har gow, Pork and prawn sui mai, Prawn spring rolls and Prawn toast with ham

1 07

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

“A RURAL TOWN NEAR SHANGHAI IS WHAT INSPIRED MANY OF THE CURRENT DISHES”

Clockwise from top: While David’s space is contemporary it hasn’t forgotten its oriental roots; The restaurant fit-out is minimalistic and modern; Sweet chunky eggplant, sliced chilli and spring onion with sweet black vinegar

108

DAVID’S RESTAURANT, MELBOURNE

The Godfather of Melbourne’s Asian menus, David Zhou’s namesake restaurant has been open since 1989, but a refresh just a few years ago well and truly reinvigorated its status as one of the best dining venues around town.

The venue Starting life as a tea house, with food added based on customer demand, the space is now light, bright and filled with rustic farmhouse-style furniture. A mixture of chairs, a cluster of pot plants, driftwood tables, even trough sinks give off a cosy, comfortable air, but it’s also sleek enough to keep up with the trendy neighbourhood surrounds of Prahran.

The cuisine David’s dishes have always focused heavily on Shanghai cuisine – evolving from urban dishes like simple tonic soups, pig knuckle and 8 Treasure Duck towards hearty, warm comfort food. A rural town near Shanghai called Zhouzhuang is what inspired many of the current dishes, with Zhou describing the food as “simple and

homely, but there to share.” Crispy pork rolls and golden chicken dumplings are just a few of the popular dishes these days.

The team Cutting his teeth and carving a path in the Shanghai restaurant scene, chef David Zhou turned to Australia as the place to raise his family, and his restaurant. He has more than 30 years of experience in the industry, but wants his diners to feel comfortable rather than awed by his restaurant. Inspired by his memories of life in Shanghai, Zhou has kept the focus on providing a place for family and friends to come together over good food.

The standout dish There’s no other Melbourne pork belly quite like David’s. Cooked in the wok, the Country Comfort sticky pork belly and chat potatoes is a winner every time.

Traditionally, the Shanghai dish is made with boiled eggs instead of potatoes, but the chat are a nod to Australian cuisine, and also provide a great canvas for soaking up the sticky sauce. Just don’t forget to save room for the chocolate-filled sesame dumplings. davidsrestaurant.com.au

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

墨尔本DAVID’S餐厅 David’s餐厅可谓墨尔本亚洲餐厅的教父，这 家以老板David Zhou名字命名的餐厅于1989 年开业，几年前经过翻新之后，其作为墨尔本 最佳餐厅的地位得以重新巩固。 这家餐厅最初只是一间茶馆，可以根据顾客的 需求提供一些食物。现在，这里明快敞亮，里 面摆满了乡村农舍风格的家具。几张桌椅、几 簇盆栽，甚至这里的水槽都散发出一种温馨、 舒适的气氛，但即使与周边普兰区（Prahran） 的时尚氛围相比，也是十分得搭调。 美食 这家餐厅主打上海菜，如简单的滋补汤、猪手 和八宝鸭，让人感到非常的温暖舒适。这里的 许多菜品都是从上海附近小镇周庄撷取灵感， 老板David解释说这里的菜品“简单朴实，没 有过多的雕饰”。脆皮猪肉卷和金鸡饺子这两 道菜在这里很受欢迎。 团队 主厨David在上海小试牛刀，在餐饮业打拼 出自己的一片天地，此后便来到澳大利亚， 把 这 里作为他 的家 庭 和 餐厅的 新 家。他 从 事这个行业已经有3 0多年了，但他却希望食 客们能够在这里感到放松和舒适，不要对他的 餐厅产生望而生畏的感觉。受他对以往上海生 活的启发，David一直致力于把这里打造成一 个家人和朋友欢聚一堂、共享美食的地方。 特色菜品 这里的农家土豆烧五花肉在墨尔本是一绝，其 口感与其他餐厅的大不相同，每次都能令食客 赞口不绝。这道上海菜的传统作法使用的是 煮鸡蛋而非土豆，在这里使用土豆是为了向澳 大利亚表示敬意，当然也是为了吸收粘稠的酱 汁。还有一点，别忘了留点肚子品尝一下这里的 巧克力夹心芝麻饺子。 > 109

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

墨尔本RUYI餐厅 Ruyi餐厅就在唐人街的边上，与唐人街内的 各个餐厅却大不相同。这间家庭经营的餐厅 获奖无数，与墨尔本的美学标准非常吻合。 R u y i 餐 厅 由 备 受 赞 誉 的 赫 克·格 思 里 （Hecker Guthrie）设计，采用现代简约风格， 有一点工业时代的感觉，与餐厅所在的位置 完美契合。人们来这里不是为了追忆过去，而 是为了体验最好的各式中餐。

RUYI, MELBOURNE

Right on the cusp of Chinatown, Ruyi is everything the restaurants inside Chinatown are not. The family-run venue has a slew of awards to its name and matches Melbourne’s aesthetic to a tee.

The venue Modern and minimalist with a bit of industrial Melbourne thrown in, the award-winning Hecker Guthrie-designed space sets the scene perfectly. This is not a trip down memory lane, but a whirlwind tour of the best China has to offer.

The cuisine The menu at Ruyi runs wild across all of China’s provinces, plucking the best dishes from regional cuisine across the entire country. “A lot of Chinese restaurants all themselves Chinese, but all they’re cooking is Cantonese, or Szechuan,” says owner, Sheng Fang. “We don’t see why we need to be bound to those regions.”

Instead, diners get to dig into dishes that combine traditional Chinese cooking techniques with modern flavours. Feng’s kitchen keeps the heat with traditional 110

wok cooking, but is mixing things up – try fried chicken wings, marinated in master stock overnight and lightly charred, Szechuan eggplant fries and cumin pork ribs. Local produce is used where possible, even when it comes to the tofu. A fried tofu dish topped with Szechuan mayo and high-quality seaweed actually comes from a local Melbourne tofu studio, where tofu is handmade each day.

The team Sheng runs his restaurant like a close-knit family – indeed, his wife Qian Qian Luo-Fang is part of the team too. Translated to “as you wish”, a Ruyi is an heirloom of good fortune.

Sheng has determined that this restaurant shall be his very own Ruyi, a spiritual place of great comfort, friendliness and family.

The standout dish There can be no doubt that Ruyi’s grade 8 oyster blade wagyu is the signature dish.

Beloved by locals, who often pop in just for the wagyu and a glass of wine, this dish will take your breath away. Served with truffles asparagus and mushrooms, the dish lets the ingredients do the talking. ruyi.com.au

美食 Ruyi的菜品来自中国的各个省份，汇集了整 个中国的地方菜系。老板冯胜（音译，Sheng Feng）说， “很多中餐厅声称自己做的是中 餐，但其实只是粤菜或川菜，我不明白为什么 非要把中餐与特定的地区捆绑在一起”。与之 相反，食客们应发掘可以将中国传统的烹饪 技术与现代风味结合起来的各式菜品。Ruyi 的厨房保留了传统的铁锅烹饪方式，但也在 做一些新的尝试——如炸鸡翅（在高汤中浸 泡一夜之后，炸得略微发焦）、鱼香茄条和孜 然排骨。只要有可能，他们就用当地的食材， 即使豆腐也是如此。比如炸豆腐配四川蛋黄 酱和优质海藻，这道菜使用的豆腐实际上来 自墨尔本当地的一家豆腐店，这里的豆腐全 部是每天手工制作的。 团队 冯胜像经营家庭一样经营着Ruyi餐厅——的 确，他的妻子Qian Qian Luo-Fang也是团 队的一员。Ruyi在中文里面是“如您所愿”的 意思，意味着好运的传承。冯家在文化大革命 期间失去了Ruyi餐厅，所以冯胜决定自己完全 拥有这间Ruyi餐厅。这对他而言，是一个寻求 精神慰藉、友谊和家庭温暖的地方。 特色菜品 毫无疑问，Ruyi餐厅的招牌菜是8级和嫩肩 肉。这道菜深受当地人喜爱，他们经常来到这 里只是为了吃点这里的和牛肉，喝上一杯酒。 这道菜美味的令人叹为观止，配有松露、芦笋 和蘑菇，用真材实料说话。 >

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

“DINERS DIG INTO DISHES THAT COMBINE TRADITIONAL CHINESE COOKING TECHNIQUES WITH MODERN FLAVOURS”

DETAILS JADE TEMPLE 11 Bridge Street, Sydney rockpooldininggroup. com.au

DAVID’S RESTAURANT 4 Cecil Place, Prahran davidsrestaurant.com.au

RUYI Ground Floor, 16 Liverpool Street, Melbourne ruyi.com.au

MADAME SHANGHAI 18 College Street, Darlinghurst lotusdining.com.au

111

CONTEMPOR ARY CHINESE

“ THIS IS AN EATERY THAT’S NOT AFRAID TO HAVE A BIT OF FUN WITH ITS FOOD” MADAME SHANGHAI, SYDNEY

Shanghai street food has never looked so good. One of Sydney’s newest Chinese restaurants, this is an eatery that’s not afraid to have a bit of fun with its food. A bar and restaurant, the venue is already attracting the crowds looking for high-end yum cha.

The venue An open kitchen keeps the 90-seater venue full of action, the grill always hot with Chinese barbecue and the team buzzing around.

But there’s plenty of sensory stimulation in the restaurant itself, with decadent velvet curtains, sumptuous Chinoiserie-patterned carpets, beautiful wall inlays and extravagant ceilings. Heaped bunches of flowers and dramatically lit arches behind the bar complete the look. It’s a feast for the senses.

The cuisine Expect Shanghai street food but not as you know it. Dishes like pineapple samball

chicken thigh meatballs and crumbed chicken katsu gua bao with sriracha mayo are standouts. The kitsch but cute popping candy crumbed fortune cookies are a must-try.

The team Shanghai-born Chris Yan leads the kitchen in style, and he’s not afraid to mix things up a little. Brought to Sydney by the Lotus Dining Group, whose successful restaurants and dumpling bars occupy Sydney’s most fashionable eating precincts, they’re a force to be reckoned with.

The standout dish The oven-baked red braised oxtail pie is definitely a crowd pleaser. Yan’s grandmother inspired the dish, which uses sorghum, a staple grain in Shanghai diets around 40 years ago. The chef wants to bring the grain back into Australian palates: “I wanted to create a dish that reinvigorates the ingredient and mix it with the tenderness and silky texture of oxtail meat.” lotusdining.com.au

悉尼MADAME SHANGHAI 上 海 的 街头 美食 从 来没有这么吸引人 的 眼 球。Madame Shanghai是悉尼新开的一 家中餐厅，他们制作美食的方法十分有趣。作 为一家酒吧餐厅，这里吸引着众多寻找高端 茶餐厅的人群。 这间餐厅共 有 9 0 个座位，开放式 厨房 使 得 这里显得很是热闹，厨房里面的人都在忙碌 着，热火朝天地准备着各色烧烤。这间餐厅本 身就能能给您带来各种感官刺激，这里有着 奢华的天鹅绒窗帘和华丽中国风图案的地毯， 墙上则是华美的图案，天花板更是豪华精美。 在酒吧后面有着各色鲜花和明亮的拱门。这 里的一切无疑会给您带来一场感官的盛宴。 美食 这里的上海街头美食其实与您的期待有所不 同。这里的菠萝咖喱鸡腿肉丸、是拉差辣酱 鸡扒刈包以及普通但很受欢迎的跳跳糖面包 屑幸运曲奇都不容错过。 团队 上 海 出 生 的 C h r i s Ya n 引导 着 这 里 菜 品 的风格，他喜欢尝试一些 新的东西。Lotu s D i n i n g G ro u p 的餐厅和 饺 子酒 吧在 悉 尼 最 为时 尚 的 饮 食 领 域中大获 成 功，由他 们引入悉尼的M a d a m e Sh a n g h a i 绝 对 是一支不可忽视的力量。 特色菜品 烤箱烤制的红烧牛尾派绝对是深受食客喜爱 的一道菜。这道菜的灵感源自Chris的祖母， 其中用到了高粱，这在40年前的上海还是主 食。Chris想把这种粮食与澳大利亚人口味相 融合， “我想在这道菜中为高粱赋予新的活力， 将其与牛尾肉的柔嫩和丝滑质感相融合”。

Clockwise from top left: Madame Shanghai’s Oven baked red braised ox tail; The interiors are reminiscent of 1930s Shanghai

112

113

www.koalabi.com Showroom 1 Keys Rd Moorabbin Victoria Australia 3189 Ph: (03) 9532 5552 Factory Outlet 304 Chesterville Rd Moorabbin Victoria Australia 3189 Ph: (03) 9078 9706

Higher Life

HIGHER LIFE

SHOPPING  SPORT  FASHION  MOTORING  CELEBRITY

Ladies night Frederique Constant’s new Slimline Moonphase Stars Manufacture is an elegant, feminine watch that is designed by women for women. The timepiece is a product of co-founder Mrs Aletta Stas’ creative vision and features a moonphase complication and the new in-house FC-701 movement. Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture, 38.8mm, from $7,125, enquiries to Lion Brands 03 9572 9820, frederiqueconstant.com

女士之夜 康 斯 登（F R E D E R I Q U E CO N S TA N T ）自家机 芯 超 薄月相 新 款 腕 表S L I M L I N E M O O N PH A S E S TA R S M AN UFACTURE专为女性设 计，散发着雅致的女性 气息。这款腕表源自康斯登联合创始人阿莱塔·斯塔 斯（ALE T TA S TA S）女士的创意，以月相多功能表和 全 新自家设 计F C-701机 芯为特 色。康斯 登自家机 芯 超薄月相新款腕表SLIMLINE MOONPHASE STARS MANUFACTURE表径38.8毫米售价：7,125澳元起。 查询请致电LION BRANDS （03）9572 9820。

115

HIGHER LIFE

Most wanted

FROM COLLECTORS’ ITEMS TO CUSTOM-MADE DESIGNER PIECES

Beauty and the beast Inspired by illustrations of fictional birds and animals found in medieval English manuscripts, you’ll find Burberry Beasts on small and large leather goods as prints or embroidered appliques. au.burberry.com 受于英国中世纪手稿中发现的虚构的鸟类和 动物插图的启发，博柏利（BURBERRY）把野 兽以图案或嵌花的形式展现在其大大小小的 皮革制品上。

NATURAL INSTINCT

PERFECT PAIR Perrin Paris and legendary late architect Zaha Hadid have collaborated for a unique collaboration. Seven limited edition leather clutches will be exclusively available on Farfetch until December. $3,782, farfetch.com 法国奢侈皮具品牌PERRIN PARIS与已逝著名建 筑大师ZAHA HADID联手设计全新手包。7款 限量真皮手包于FARFETCH独家出售至12月。售 价：3782澳元。

116

Designed by Ole Lynggaard, the glistening Elephant necklace features 536 diamonds in 20 different sizes, depicting an 18-karat yellow gold elephant playfully holding a green tourmaline water drop. $63,900, chain sold separately, olelynggaard.com OLE LYNGGAARD闪耀的 大象项链挂件共镶有20种不 同尺寸的钻石536颗，形象地 描绘了一个18克拉的黄金大 象与一颗绿色碧玺水滴嬉戏 玩耍的景象。售价：63,900澳 元，挂链单独出售。

STAR STRUCK Stella McCartney’s new collection of leather goods with leave you starry-eyed.

Head to Harrold’s to see more from the playful collection and products from other lead designers like Tom Ford, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga. harrolds.com.au STELLA MCCARTNEY全新皮革产品系列，让 您 充 满无限 幻想。前 往 H A R R O L D，这 里有 其他 顶级品牌TOM F O R D、圣罗兰（SA I N T LAURENT）和巴黎世家（BALENCIAGA）等更 多值得玩味的产品系列。

HIGHER LIFE

Steeped in tradition

T A K E F I V E 为 您 精 选 五 款 LUXE SLIPPERS奢华拖鞋

The first Rouge et Noir fountain pen was created in 1906 and was a breakthrough as it eliminated the need for dipping the nib into an inkwell. The Heritage Collection Rouge et Noir celebrates the 110-year-old pioneering spirit of Montblanc. $720, montblanc.com 第一支“红与黑”墨水笔于1906年问世，这是一次突破性的发明， 无需再将笔咀蘸入墨槽中。传承系列红与黑黄金特别版向万宝龙 （MONTBLANC）110年以来的先锋精神致敬。售价：720澳元。

Watch this space Luxury watch and jewellery retailer, Kennedy, has opened its very first Perth boutique in Crown Towers. It’s the company’s largest store to date and will house the largest selection of IWC Schaffhausen in the state. Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Celestial, $44,200 kennedy.com.au 澳大利亚豪华腕表和珠宝零售商KENNEDY在珀斯的第一家精品店 于皇冠度假酒店（CROWN TOWERS）开业。这是目前该公司最大 的一家精品店，并将成为该州收藏沙夫豪森IWC万国表系列最多的 一家店。芝柏CAT’S EYE CELESTIAL腕表售价：44,200澳元。

Stay connected Tambour Horizon is a new smartwatch by Louis Vuitton designed to travel the globe in style. Access exclusive content from the French fashion house, customise the dial to your taste and load up on dedicated travel apps. $4,200, au.louisvuitton.com 路易威登（LOUIS VUITTON）TAMBOUR HORIZON系 列新款智能腕表，为时尚旅行而生。享受来自路易威登的 特色内容，通过专属旅行应用程序对表盘进行个性化设 计。售价：4,200澳元。

New on the block Moncler has arrived in Australia in the form of a single-brand boutique inside luxury shopping destination, Chadstone Shopping Centre. The store is decorated with while guilloche marble and burnished brass. Shop G036, Dandenong Road, Chadstone, Victoria, moncler.com 以羽绒服闻名的MONCLER以单一品牌精品店 的方式进驻澳大利亚，入驻墨尔本豪华购物中心 CHADSTONE购物中心。店内采用白色大理石和 亮铜装饰。精品店位于CHADSTONE购物中心 G036号店。

1. Aquazzura, $799, shop.davidjones.com.au 2. Gucci, $770, gucci.com/au 3. Nicholas Kirkwood, $554, farfetch.com 4. Marni, $674, farfetch.com 5. Robert Clergerie, POA, robertclergerie.com 117

HIGHER LIFE

像钻石一样闪亮

Shine bright like a diamond For the first Rihanna Loves Chopard collection, the Grammy-winning artist wanted to create pieces that were unique, but could still be layered and paired with every day wear. “It’s a true representation of what every woman is made of – strength and vulnerability, which are reflected in the army green and rose gold linked motifs throughout the collection,” Rihanna says. $5,240, chopard.com 对于 萧邦 首个RIHANNA LOVES CHOPARD 系 列，这位葛 萊 美 獎 得主希望 创 造 出 的 作 品 有着 独 特 的 风 格，但 仍 然 适合日常穿 戴 与 搭 配 。蕾 哈 娜（R I H A N N A）分享道：“ 该 系列真实 地 体 现了每 一 位 女人 的两个方 面——坚强和脆弱，这在整个系列的丛林绿 颜色和玫瑰金材质的图案上都有所体现。” 售价：5,240澳元

118

Dreamtime Diamond Collection Dreamtime Australian Diamonds originate from the world renowned Argyle Diamond Mine.

Every piece is inspired by the Australian landscape, created with Argyle coloured diamonds in shades of brown.

Prices starting from AUD$299.

Dreamtime Australian Diamonds起源于世界知名的力 拓集团的Argyle Diamond Mine。每一件珍品都受到澳大 利亚自然景色的启发，由不同程度棕色的Argyle彩色钻石 制作而成。售价299澳元起。

Argyle Diamond Collection The Argyle Diamond Collection featuring Australian Argyle White Diamonds from the Rio Tinto Group. Personally design your own custom piece of Argyle Diamond Jewellery.

The Argyle Diamond Collection的特色产品是来自力拓集团 的澳大利亚Argyle白钻石。私人订制您自己独一无二的Argyle Diamond珠宝。

Designed by: Douglas Ely of York Jewellers

To view our Argyle Diamond collections scan the QR code.

www.dreamtimediamonds.com

HIGHER LIFE

蛇头包

Bags with bite The teaming of Bulgari and Nicholas Kirkwood is a no brainer. Both draw inspiration from innovation, architectural design and graphics. The result of their unity? A bold Bulgari x Nicholas Kirkwood capsule collection features Serpenti Forever bags with a studded chevron pattern, zig zags cut across leather and, of course, the iconic serpent head. $4,210, bulgari.com 宝格丽（BULGARI）与奢侈品鞋履设计师 尼古拉斯·柯克伍德（NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD）联手，以创新、建筑设计和图像为灵感，破天荒设计出大胆前卫的 BULGARI X NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD系列，其中的SERPENTI FOREVER背包以 锥形铆钉在蛇头包上拼成锯齿形图案。售价：4,210澳元。

120

Home to Australia’s whitest beach at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, just out of Esperance, is so relaxed even the kangaroos sunbathe on the sand. For the full outdoor experience, follow the coastal walk trails or set up at some of Australia’s most picturesque campsites.

Visit westernaustralia.com/cn to explore more.

LUCKY BAY, ESPERANCE

H I G H E R L I F E // M O T O R I N G

In a league of its own In an increasingly crowded SUV market, Audi’s new Q2 stands alone in both form and function

SPECS Price From $41,100 Engine 1.4-litre four-cylinder turbo petrol Output 110kW/250Nm Transmission Seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission Dimensions 4191mm (L), 1794mm (W), 1508mm (H) Weight 1,280 kg 0 – 100km/h 8.5 sec

Audi’s Q2 is a head turner. There’s no car quite like it on the roads and it encapsulates everything that’s wonderful about the German manufacturer’s aesthetic: clean lines, functional design and styling that appeals to both ladies and gents. And it’s just so shiny.

Car buyers have traditionally only had a small handful of options when it comes to body shape: hatch, sedan, SUV, wagon or bust. But Audi threw a major curveball when it introduced the Q2 in February. Not quite hatch and not quite SUV, it’s a godsend for those craving a city car that treads the fine line between zippy and substantial.

While this smooth operator might look honed from the outside, there’s plenty of space inside – although those on the taller side might struggle with its sleek sloping roof. You’ve got to suffer for fashion, right?

122

The Q2 gets the family-friendly tick with a five-star ANCAP rating, autonomous emergency braking, parking sensors, reverse camera and lane-departure assist.

But when you see the leather-appointed upholstery, you may not want to let kids anywhere near it.

As the car boasts the legroom and visibility of an SUV, it drives like a hatch – agile and responsive thanks to Audi’s precision-boosting progressive steering.

Choose from the entry-level 1.4 TFSI Design from $41,100 and up, or the 2.0 TDI Quattro Sport, which starts at $47,900 and offers allwheel drive. The second half of 2017 will see the arrival of a 2.0 TFSI Quattro model that boosts the Q2’s power to 140kW/320Nm. At just over $40,000, this competitively priced slice of luxury doesn’t sacrifice practicality. The subtly sumptuous interior –

even slicker with the optional flat-bottomed steering wheel – is equipped with satellite navigation, Bluetooth connectivity and voice control. All are incredibly intuitive so you can hit the road without fuss, making the Q2 the ultimate getaway car (if your idea of a getaway is hitting Victoria’s Great Ocean Road for sun and surf, that is).

Fuel consumption is a lean 5.3L/100km for the entry-level model and this figure is reduced even further in the 2.0 TDI. The automated parking function – which sees the Q2 squeeze itself into even the tightest parking spot – is the icing on the cake.

Having proven it’s not just a pretty face the Q2 can afford to be a little vain with custom design tweaks, from interior trim to LED lighting. Opt for the chic paint shade Quantum Grey to really get those heads turning.

H I G H E R L I F E // M O T O R I N G

奥迪Q2，自成一派 在竞争日益激烈的SUV市场，奥迪全新Q2的款式和功能 都显得独具一格。

奥迪Q2的回头率绝对够高。目前市面上还没有 与其相似的车款，此款车型集这家德国制造商所 有的审美标准于一身：简洁的线条、出色的功能 设计和时尚的造型，对男士和女士都很有吸引力。 它就是这么得光彩耀人。 在选择车型时，人们往往只有少数几种选择： 两厢车、三厢车、SUV、旅行车或跑车，但奥迪在 二月份推出的Q2着实让人眼前一亮。Q2即不像 两厢车也不大像SUV，款式和功能性得到很好的 平衡，是一款理想的城市用车。 这款车外形线条看起来非常流畅，内部空间也 足够，非常适合家庭使用，荣获ANCAP五星安全

评级，配备有自动紧急制动系统、停车传感器、倒 车摄像头和车道偏离辅助系统。当您看到车内的 皮革装饰时，可能会舍不得让孩子们靠近。 虽然这款车拥有SUV的腿部空间和视野，但由 于奥迪的精准操控动态转向系统，它开起来却像 两厢车一样灵活、响应敏捷。入门级1.4 TFSI车型 41,10 0澳元起，2.0 TDI QUATTRO SPORT车型 47,900澳元起，并且配备全轮驱动系统。2017年 下半年，Q2将会推出2.0 TFSI QUATTRO车型，输 出功率可达140千瓦／320牛米。 售价仅40,0 0 0澳元多一点儿，这款价格极具 竞争力的豪华车型并没有牺牲它的实用性。内饰

采用轻奢风格，配备卫星导航、蓝牙连接和语音 控制功能，同时可选配平底方向盘。所有这些功 能使用起来都非常简单，所以您可以放心地上路， 驾驶Q2开始您的终极度假之旅（如果您想前往维 多利亚州的大洋路享受阳光和海浪，那么您就选 对了）。 入门级车型百公里油耗仅为5.3升，2.0 TDI车 型要更低一些。自动泊车功能更是锦上添花，使 得Q2在最为狭小的停车位面前也显得从容不迫。 奥迪Q2不仅有着漂亮的外观，还可以对内饰 和LED照明系统等轻松进行定制。车漆可以选择 别致的量子灰色，让路人真正地为其倾倒。

123

H I G H E R L I F E // W I N E

Southern stars

It’s no secret that South Australia is a haven for wine lovers, and one of its regions in particular has been making an award-winning name for itself in recent times

“The combination of quality and diversity is driving its current success”

There’s a lot of excitement around Australian wine TRY right now and there’s no bigger buzz than the one surrounding the Adelaide Hills wine region in 1. 2017 Ochota Barrels South Australia. Crested around the eastern edge Weird Berries In The of the City of Adelaide, this elevated region is the Woods Gewürztraminer place to be for wine lovers visiting Australia.

The best release yet of this The region first rose to fame in the 1980s when it fragrant, flower-drenched white developed a reputation for boutique cool-climate wine bathed in lychee, rose water and tangy lemon/lime citrus fruits. brands (think Petaluma, Shaw + Smith and Henschke).

Drink it young and refreshing.

Today it’s teaming with talented young winemakers ochotabarrels.com making small volumes of mostly low-intervention wines that are turning heads in the world’s most wine-savvy 2. 2016 Murdoch Hill cities like London, Paris, New York and Hong Kong.

The Landau Syrah 1 2 3 What wine is the Adelaide Hills most famous for?

A fresh and spicy style with a There’s no definitive answer – it’s making awardwealth of raspberry, red cherry, winning sparkling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, plum and blackberry fruits as well chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz cabernet sauvignon as handy toasty oak influence. and more. The combination of quality and diversity is Delicious smooth palate texture. murdochhill.com.au driving its current success.

Local winemakers Taras Ochota and Michael Downer 3. 2017 Shaw + Smith have both won the coveted Australian Young Gun of Wine Sauvignon Blanc Award (Ochota in 2013 and Downer in 2017) and they are One of the region’s classic styles, part of a generational push towards making fresh, modern this is a white that delivers a very and sustainably produced wines across a broad range of aromatic, floral style of white with styles. The classic brands and wine styles are alive and well intense citrus and tropical fruits. too; the whole region is in career-best form.

Really vibrant and fresh.

And it’s not just the wineries that are booming. shawandsmith.com The local food and dining scene has also sprouted new life, making the Adelaide Hills a great destination. Check out the Summertown Aristologist (thesummertownaristologist.com) for locally 现在，澳 大利亚的葡 萄酒 有很多令人 兴 奋 当 地 酿 酒 师 塔 拉 斯 · 俄 科 farmed food and wine; Lost In A Forest in Uraidla 的地方，但没有比南澳大利亚的阿德莱德山 塔（ T A R A S O C H O T A ）和 麦 克 尔·唐 (lostinaforest.com.au), a cool pizza and natural wine （ADELAIDE HILLS）葡萄酒产区更为热闹的 纳（ M I C H A E L D O W N E R ）都 曾 获 得 bar; and local pubs like The Stanley Bridge Tavern 了。阿德莱德山葡萄酒产区位于阿德莱德市 羡 慕 旁人 的 澳 大 利 亚 葡 萄 酒 青 年 才 俊 奖 (stanleybridgetavern.com) and the Crafers Hotel 东部边缘，海拔较高，是来到澳大利亚的葡 （AUSTRALIAN YOUNG G UN OF WINE (crafershotel.com.au), the best wine-savvy gastro-pubs 萄酒爱好者的天堂。 AWARD，俄科塔于2013年，唐纳于2017年）， in the region. See you there! 该 地 区 最 早 是 在 2 0 世 纪 8 0 年 代 声 他们这一代人努力推动酿制新鲜、现代和可 Nick Stock is an award-winning author and wine critic.

1 24

名鹊 起，开发了一系 列 精品 凉 爽气候 葡 萄 持续生产的各种风格的葡萄酒。而当地经典 酒品牌（如PE TALUMA、SHAW + SMITH 的品牌和葡萄酒风格也很活跃，整个地区现 和 H E N SCH K E)。随着采用低干预 原则 酿 在处于最佳状态。 制的葡萄酒在世界上多数葡萄酒消费城市， 不 仅 酒 庄 迅 速 发 展 ，当 地 的 美 食 如伦敦、巴黎、纽 约和香港开始受到关注， 和 餐 饮 也 是 一 派 欣 欣 向 荣 的 景 象 ，使 今 天，与才 华 横 溢 的年 轻 酿 酒 师 一 起，该 得 阿 德 莱 德 山 成 为 了一 个 绝 佳 的 目 的 地区也开始少量酿制采用低干预原则的葡 地 。S U M M E R T O W N A R I S T O LO G I S T 萄酒。 有 当 地 出 产 的 美 食 和 葡 萄 酒 ，乌 雷 德 拉 最近有人问我，阿德莱德山最有名的葡萄 （URAIDLA）的LOST IN A FOREST是一个 酒是什么？答案是屡获殊荣的起泡酒、长相 很 不错 的比萨和天然葡萄酒酒 吧，而当地 思、灰比诺、黑比诺、霞多丽、西拉、赤霞珠， 的酒吧THE STANLEY BRIDGE TAVERN和 不胜枚举。同时具备高品质和多样性为其当 CRAFERS HOTEL则是该地区对葡萄酒最为 前所获成功的有着很大的推动作用。 了解的美食酒馆。与您不见不散！

perthmint.com.au/visit

HIGHER LIFE

Above: Olivier Paultes sampling a glass of Hennessy’s Paradis Imperial

126

HIGHER LIFE

品鉴大师

Taste master 轩尼诗蒸馏总监奥利弗·保罗特斯（Olivier Paultes）透露了一些他从未 披露过的家族秘密，他是如何最终在轩尼诗这样一家干邑行业的领导企 业中开始工作，以及除干邑之外他喜欢喝的品种。 Hennessy’s director of distilleries, Olivier Paultes, reveals some of his closely held family secrets, how he ended up working for a company that is the leader in the cognac industry and what he likes to drink when he’s not sipping cognac

How were you first introduced to cognac?

There’s a long story behind it. I was born in Cognac, France, into a family of master blenders. I was lucky because my grandfather introduced me to many, many secrets of the master blenders. My great grandfather was also a master blender. There are actually seven generations of master blenders in my family.

Did you always want to follow in the footsteps of your family members?

You really can’t create cognac if you don’t have a passion for it. I have a passion for it so it was a natural choice. Every day, at 11am, the six experts on Hennessy’s tasting committee, including myself, are taste testing anywhere from 50, all the way up to 70, samples of eaux-de-vie. You can’t try that many samples without loving the product.

How did you end up working for Hennessy?

I was working for the same company for 25 years. I am still in good contact with them. I decided that I needed a new challenge and it was a great change. For me, good cognac comes from all different areas across France, not just Cognac. Working for a larger company means that I can use eaux-de-vie from the best of the regions.

I’m also privileged to share experience and lots of secrets with others on our tasting committee. Secrets come from families and sharing them means you can make the very best cognac.

Can you share any secrets with us?

I can share one with you that came from my grandfather. If you want a cognac with lots of fullness, spices and aroma, such as cinnamon, cloves or pepper, you have to age it in your cask for a long time. And if you put your eaux-de-vie in a cask that’s eight to 10 >

您最初是如何认识到干邑的？ 说来话长。我出生在法国干邑的一个调配 大师家庭。我很幸运，因为爷爷告诉我调配 大师的许多秘密。曾祖父也是一位调配大 师。实际上，我的家族七代都是调配大师。 您是否一直都想追随家族的脚步？ 如果对于干邑没有热爱，就不能真正地创造 干邑。我热爱它，所以这是一个很自然的选 择。每天11点，包括我自己在内的轩尼诗品 鉴委员会的6位专家都将品尝50到70个样 品，从而决定如何进行调配。没有对干邑的 热爱，您根本不可能尝试那么多的样品。 您是如何开始在轩尼诗工作的？ 我在同一家公司工作了25年的时间，而且我 与他们仍然保持着很好的联系。但是后来 我决定需要一个新的挑战，虽然这是一个 很大的变化。我认为，好的干邑来自法国各 个不同的地区，不仅仅只有干邑。在一家更 大的公司工作意味着我可以使用各地区最 好的干邑。我也有幸与我们的品鉴委员会 的其他成员分享许多经验和秘密。这些秘 密来自不同的家族，互相交流则意味着你可 以调配出最好的干邑。 您能与我们分享一些秘密吗？ 我可以和您分享一个来自我祖父的秘密。如 果想要使干邑拥有肉桂、丁香或胡椒等的馥 郁芳香，必须在酒桶中陈酿很长一段时间。 如果你把干邑放在一个8到10年的木桶里陈 酿，酒中就会含有许多来自老木桶的香味。 调配大师怎样才能做到与众不同？ 经验。最近有两位新的调配大师加入了我们 的品鉴委员会。在10年的时间里，他们不 > 127

HIGHER LIFE

“WE’LL KEEP EAUX-DE-VIE FOR UP TO 70 YEARS TO BE BLENDED IN THE FUTURE” years old, and leave it to rest, you will have lots of aromas from the aged cask.

What sets a master blender apart from the rest?

Experience. We have two new blenders that have recently joined our tasting committee. They are forbidden to talk or comment on the eaux-de-vie for 10 years as they must learn how to taste. You have to know by experience how to blend.

Imagine you have a very good oyster and a piece of fine chocolate. While alone they will taste delicious, but if you were to mix them together they would not taste nice. The same goes for eaux-de-vie.

Just because you have two very good eaux-de-vie does not mean you can just blend them. Only experience can give you the knowledge of what pair together.

When creating cognac for Hennessy, what are you trying to achieve?

Consistency of the product is the most important element. We work with the past with eaux-de-vie selected from master blenders before us, but we also have to prepare for the future generations with the eaux-de-vie we distil now. We will keep them for up to 70 years so that they can be blended together in the future. If you a buy a bottle VSOP today you should also be able to buy the same bottle in 10 years’ time. It should have the exact same nose, colour and taste.

Tell us a bit about the history behind Paradis Imperial...

On December 24, 1818, the Dowager Empress of Russia sent an order for

Top to bottom: At the heart of Hennessy House is Chai du Fondateur (The Founder’s Cellar) where the oldest eaux-de-vie is kept; Blending in progress; Hennessy Headquarters in Cognac, France; Barrel making

128

rare cognac to the Hennessy family requesting them to prepare a unique blend of exceptional finesse, a gift from the Dowager Empress to her son, Tsar Alexander I. Hennessy’s master blender, Yann Fillioux, wanted to recreate this.

After research at the company archives in Cognac, Hennessy has recreated the imperial blend but with a modern spin, which is most important. Today, people want a product that is light and elegant. I remember only 30 years ago people liked very dark cognac that was bold and spicy.

What sets Hennessy apart from other cognac creators?

I think we have the best tasting committee and we decide what we want to make. In a lot of other companies it’s the marketing team that will do this.

They will come in and say, “You need to make a product like this...” It doesn’t work like that. You have to create what you think is best and the marketing comes after that. We’re very lucky that we work in this way. Secondly, we are very strict with the base of our product.

Other companies don’t have a tasting committee like this. We only buy product that we want to buy. We personally select it. If the base is not good, you can’t expect to make excellent product.

When you’re not drinking cognac, what are you drinking?

Whatever people produce with passion. I like every product of the world... when they are of the best quality. I like good wine and spirits. While I’m in Australia I would like to try Australian brandy. I have never tasted one before, so it will be a first. Being in France in December, when it’s extremely cold, there’s nothing better than a glass of cognac. The taste of it will remind you that summer is coming.

For me, it’s beautiful. You can travel with just a glass of cognac in hand.

HIGHER LIFE

得对干邑进行谈论或评论，而是必须学习如 何品鉴。您要凭经验才能知道如何调配。假 如您有一只非常美味的牡蛎和一块上好的 巧克力。虽然分开来说，它们的味道都不错， 但若把它们混在一起，味道就不好了。对干 邑来说，同样如此。并不是说您有两款很好 的干邑就意味着可以把它们简单地调配在 一起。只有经验才能告诉您如何调配才能有 好的结果。

Left: Hennessy’s Paradis Imperial is distinct in colour and taste Bottom: A bottle of Paradis Imperial will set you back $2,800.

您为轩尼诗调配干邑的目标是什么？ 产品的一致性是最为重要的元素。我们用之 前调配大师所调配的干邑来进行调配，同 时也酿制新的干邑为后代作好准备。我们 会将这些干邑保存长达70年的时间，这样 在将来就可以将它们进行调配。如果您今 天买了一瓶轩尼诗VSOP，那么10年后你也 应该能够买到相同的一瓶。无论味道、颜色、 口感，都应该绝对相同。 告诉我们一些有关百乐廷皇禧的故事吧。 1818年12月24日，俄国皇太后邀请轩尼诗家 族酿制一款极品干邑，作为其爱子沙皇亚力 山大一世的生日贺礼，这就是轩尼诗百乐廷 皇禧的由来。后来，轩尼诗调配大师颜·费 尔沃（Yann Fillioux）想要重现这款经典干 邑。在研究干邑的公司档案后，轩尼诗终于 重现了百乐廷皇禧，但最重要的是加入一些 现代元素。今天，人们喜欢淡雅的干邑。要 知道30年前，人们喜欢的干邑则颜色较深、 色彩鲜明、味道辛辣。 与其他干邑酒厂相比，轩尼诗有什么独特 之处？ 在我看来，我们拥有最好的品鉴委员会，可 以决定我们要调配什么样的酒。在很多其 他公司，是营销团队在做决定。事情不应该 是这样的。您必须创造出您认为最好的产 品，然后才进行营销。非常幸运的是这就是 我们的工作方式。其次，我们对产品基酒的 选择非常严格。其他公司没有这样的品鉴委 员会。我们亲自进行挑选想要的产品。如果 基酒不好，就无法期待能够调配出优秀的 产品。 除干邑外，您还喝什么酒？ 任何人们用热情酿制的酒。我喜欢世界上的 每一款产品，只要是有着最佳的品质。我喜 欢上好的葡萄酒和烈酒。在澳大利亚的时 候会尝试澳大利亚的白兰地。以前从来没有 尝过，所以这是第一次。当然，作为一个法 国人，我喜欢上好的香槟。十二月的法国异 常寒冷，没有什么比来一杯干邑更好的了。 干邑的味道让您仿佛觉得夏天就要来了。对 我来说，简直妙不可言。很多时候，只要手 中有一杯干邑就可以了。 129

H I G H E R L I F E // R U N W AY 1

Balenciaga Fall 2017 RTW

2

3 4

格子控

Check mate

Sleek and sophisticated, checks are a trend you can carry through to the office 把时尚高雅的格子潮 带回办公室吧。 5

11 9

1. Gucci, POA, gucci. com/au 2. Gucci, POA, gucci.com/au 3. Loewe, $1,605, net-a-porter. com 4. Rosie Assoulin, $3,531, net-a-porter.com 5.

Sarah & Sebastian, $480, sarahandsebastian.com 6.

Prada, POA, prada.com 7.

Miu Miu, $2,900, miumiu. com 8. Panthère de Cartier, $ 27,900, au.cartier.com 9. Gucci, POA, gucci.com/ au 10. Giambattista Valli, $1,427, net-a-porter.com 11.

Prada, POA, prada.com 12.

Tibi, $619, net-a-porter.com

6

10

8

7

12

130

H I G H E R L I F E // R U N W AY

1

4

2

3

6 5

7

Dior Fall 2017 RTW

8

牛仔热

Double duty Paired denim with a Parisian twist

1. Dannijo, $132, net-a-porter. com 2. Current/Elliott, $294, currentelliott.com 3. Alexa Chung, $413, net-a-porter.com 4. IWC Schaffhausen, $7,700, iwc.com 5. Saint Laurent, $3,135, ysl.com 6. Loeffler Randall, $407, loefflerrandall. com 7. Rejina Pyo, $848, neta-porter.com 8. Isabel Marant, POA, isabelmarant.com 9. Madewell, $185, net-a-porter. com 10. Chloé, POA chloe.com 11. Prada, POA, prada.com

巴黎风牛仔热。 9

11 10

131

H I G H E R L I F E // R U N W AY

1

2

浅色时尚

3

Come to light Embrace the neutral trend this season 来一睹今季大热的裸色单品。 4

ErmengildoZegna Fall 2017 Menswear

5

8

7

1. Mykita, $661, farfetch.com 2. Weber Hodel Feder, $644, weberhodelfeder. com 3. Gabriele Pasini, $1,312, farfetch.com 4.

Laneus, $538, laneus. it 5. Valentino, POA, valentino.com/au 6.

Stella McCartney, $1,015, stellamccartney.com 7.

Retrosuperfuture, $444, farfetch.com 8. The Gigi, $679, farfetch.com 9.

Oliver Peoples, $536, oliverpeoples.com 6

9

132

H I G H E R L I F E // R U N W AY

4

2 3

5 1

6

1. Alexander McQueen, $560, alexandermcqueen.com/au 2. Prada, POA, prada.com 3. Etro, $1,230 mrporter.com 4. Givenchy, POA, givenchy. com 5. True Rocks, $453, truerocks.com 6. Acne Studios, $1,600, acnestudios. com 7. Louis Vuitton, $1,510, au.louisvuitton.com 8. Dior Homme, POA, dior.com 9. MSGM, $220, farfetch. com 10. Mulberry, $1,600, mulberry.com/au 11. Neil Barrett, $483, farfetch.com 12. Maison Kitsune, POA, shop.kitsune.fr

7

9

运动西装

Sport the suit

Louis Vuitton Fall 2017 Menswear

8

A casual take on a smart classic 在经典上注入休闲气息。

11 10

12

133

HIGHER LIFE

彩妆热话

Beauty Buzz 新款化妆品火热上市，让您爱不释手。

The latest beauty products you’ll want to get your hands on New formatte

全新唇釉

Get double the colour intensity of a traditional lipstick using half the amount of product with Lancome’s new Matte Shaker. The matte liquid is super comfortable to wear and non-drying, so your lips lock in moisture, $38, lancome.com.au 兰蔻全新空气轻垫柔雾唇釉， 仅一半用量，即可获得传统口 红两倍的闪亮。这款唇釉舒 适不干燥，令唇部锁住 水分。38澳元。

Flower power 花之力量

Bloom is the first women’s scent by Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele.

The notes include Tuberose absolute, Jasmine bud extract and Rangoon Creeper, a flower that changes from white to red when it blooms, also featured on the packaging. 100ml EDP, $182, gucci.com/au 古驰创意总监亚历山德罗·米凯莱 （ALESSANDRO MICHELE）的首款女 性香水，含有晚香玉精油、茉莉花蕾提取 物和在开花时从白变红的使君子，这也在包 装上有特别体现。100毫升售价：182澳元。

134

HIGHER LIFE

Fill you in 饱满肌肤

Over the years our skin loses its plumpness, which is synonymous with its youthfulness. La Prairie’s all-new Skin Caviar Absolute Filler uses concentrated caviar oil and proteins to restore volume and refine the face’s contours. $755, laprairie.com.au 我们的面部经常不可避免地 受到自然因素的伤害。莱珀 妮全新鱼子精华保湿霜使 用鱼子酱浓缩精油和蛋 白质，可恢复肌肤饱 满、修护面部轮 廓。755澳 元。

Instant lift 瞬时点亮

Deramlogica’s Stress Positive Eye Lift will brighten tired eyes by visibly reducing puffiness and dark circles thanks to some key ingredients: wild indigo seed, sea water extract and Arctic algae. $95, dermalogica.com.au 德卡的抗压提升修护眼膜含有赝靛籽、海水提取物和北 极藻类等关键成分，可显著减少浮肿和黑眼圈，舒缓疲惫， 点亮双眼。95澳元。

New angles 全新角度 Contouring can be quite intimidating for first timers, but thanks to Clarins Face Contouring Palette it is made easier. The angled brush allows you to easily define the facial contours with the three shades of compact powder. $55, clarins.com.au 首次尝试修饰脸部轮廓的人士可能会感觉相当紧张不安， 现在有了娇韵诗3效塑颜光影盒，一切变得从未如此轻松。 特别设计的塑颜专用化妆刷搭配三色细致粉末， 让您轻松定义面部轮廓。55澳元。

Fresh legs 活力双腿

PSA for frequent travellers. For those who suffer from swollen legs, Sisley has a remedy for you. White Ginger Contouring for Legs immediately soothes any sensations of discomfort, and as a bonus leaves your skin softer and more toned. $200, sisley-paris.com 频繁旅行人士的蜂胶浓缩精华。对于受腿部肿 胀困扰的人士，希思黎为您带来福音。白姜花纤 腿紧肤精华油可立即缓解任何不适感，并使您 的肌肤更柔软、更紧致。200澳元。

Lip service

Lancome, $52, lancome.com.au

Shu Uemura, $45, shuuemura.com.au/en

Giorgio Armani, $56, giorgioarmanibeauty.com.au

Estee Lauder, $36, esteelauder.com.au

Guerlain, $48, guerlain.com

Dior, $53, dior.com

精致唇妆

135

HIGHER LIFE

秀发时尚

Mane game 使用这些品牌的热销产品， 在家中轻松舒适地打造媲美 沙龙的美发效果。 Get salon-worthy hair from the comfort of your own home with these brands and their cult products 1. Rodin New York-based stylist

Lina Rodin has drawn on her extensive experience in the fashion and beauty industry to create luxury beauty products from a signature fusion of oils including jasmine, sweet almonds and jojoba.

2. Aerin Beauty Whether it’s their candles, fragrances or hairbrushes, Aerin’s products are distinctly luxurious looking with gold accents. The paddle brush has been handcrafted in Italy and is fitted with natural bristles.

3. Sachajuan Created in Sweden, Sachajuan was created by haircare professionals Sacha Mitic and Juan Rosenlind. The range of products harness the power of valuable proteins and minerals found in sea algae.

4. Balmain Hair Couture Yes, as in the French fashion house. And as the brand is meticulous with the details of the pieces they send down the runway, it has also dedicated the same amount of attention to its 10-product hair range.

5. Ouai Jen Atkin has built quite the name for herself in Hollywood with a long list of A-list clients, including the Kardashians. Upon launch her all-new product range sold out. Ouai products are all about keeping it natural and easy.

6. Christophe Robin Hair colourist to the world’s most iconic supermodels, Christophe Robin believes great hair colour also comes from having great hair.

In 1999, the French hair colourist artisan launched his haircare range that has a strong focus on natural ingredients.

136

7. Oribe Oribe Hair Care was founded

by renowned editorial and celebrity hairstylist Oribe and beauty industry veterans Daniel Kaner and Tev Finger.

The goal? To create products designed by the most talented salon professionals, with the most discerning customers in mind.

8. ghd When ghd burst onto the hair scene a decade ago, their first straightener was a game-changer. It introduced a simple way to get straight and silky locks that no longer involved an iron or salon professional. Since then, it has become a staple in most girls’ beauty cabinets.

1

HIGHER LIFE

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

1. R O D I N 纽 约 造 型师 莉 娜·罗丹（L I N A RODIN）利用她在时尚和美容行业的丰富经 验，将茉莉精油、甜杏仁和荷荷巴油等加以 混合，打造出诸多奢华美容产品。 2.AERIN BEAUT Y 无论是蜡烛、香水或发 梳，AERIN产品有着独特风格的豪华外观， 大多数包装都突出了金色元素。AERIN这款 气垫发刷于意大利手工精制而成，采用天然 猪鬃发齿。 3.SACHAJUAN SACHAJUAN品牌由瑞典 护发专家萨夏·米提克（SACHA MITIC）和 胡安·罗斯林德（JUAN ROSENLIND）共同 创立，其产品系列充分利用了海藻中发现的 宝贵蛋白质和矿物质的修复能力。 4.BALMAIN HAIR COUTURE 是的，这是一 家法国时尚品牌。该品牌对其推出的系列产 品的细节一丝不苟，在秀发护理领域的十款 产品也因其产品的奢华、包装的时尚受到同 样的关注。 5.OUAI 珍·阿特金（JEN ATKIN）是好莱坞 超火的发型师，她的明星客户不胜枚举，其 中就 包括 卡戴 珊家族。她 的全 新系列产品 注 重 保 持自然 轻 松，一 经 推 出 立 即 售 罄， 大获成功。 6.CH RI STO PH E RO B I N 世界 各大红极一 时的超 级名模 御用发型师克里 斯托弗·罗 宾（CHRI STOPHE ROBI N）认为，要想让 秀发色 彩靓丽，首先要 拥有一头健 康的秀 发。1999年，这位法国发型师推出自己的护 发系列产品，非常注重天然成分的使用。 7.O R I B E 由 著名美 发 编 辑 和 明 星 发 型 师 奥 里 维（ O R I B E ）和 美 容 行 业 资 深 人 士 丹尼尔·卡纳（DANIE L K ANER）和泰维· 芬 格（ T E V F I N G E R）创 立。他 们 的目标 是 什 么呢 ？专 门 为 最 有 天 赋 的 美 发 专 业 人 士 和 最 挑 剔 的 客户 设 计 打 造 一 系 列 的 产品。 8.GHD 当十多年前，GHD突然进入美发行 业时，他们的首款直发器令整个行业发生了 翻天覆地的变化。直发器可以轻松地让秀发 顺直丝滑，不再需要烙铁或专业人士的帮助。 自那时以来，直发器已经成为大多数女孩梳 妆台上的必备品。

1. Rodin, Luxury Hair Oil $105, mecca. com.au 2. Aerin Beauty, Large Gold-Tone Hairbrush $100, aerin.com 3. Sachajuan, Overnight Hair Repair $53, net-aporter.com 4. Balmain Hair Couture, Volume Shampoo $48 and Volume Conditioner $52, net-a-porter.com 5.

Ouai, Wave spray $33, sephora.com.au 6. Christophe Robin, Regenerating Mask with Rare Prickly Pear Seed Oil $83.50 and Cleansing Volumizing Paste $62, adorebeauty.com.au 7. Oribe, Signature Moisture Masque, $87, oribe.com 8. ghd, Limited edition pink blush ghd platinum styler and roll bag, $325, ghdhair.com/au 137

现代高贵

MODERN ELEGANCE Giorgio Armani’s Resort 2018 collection is a youthful take on the designer’s polished tailoring GIORGIO ARMANI 2018 度假系列为这个高级定制的 服装品牌注入青春活力。

138

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Giorgio Armani, armani.com/au/giorgioarmani

139

HIGHER LIFE

140

All looks available from Giorgio Armani, armani.com/au/giorgioarmani

1 41

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Giorgio Armani, armani.com/au/giorgioarmani

1 42

HIGHER LIFE

143

HIGHER LIFE

144

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Giorgio Armani, armani.com/au/giorgioarmani

145

HIGHER LIFE

MY HIGHER LIFE

Anita Yuen

With four restaurants across Sydney, Phoenix Group is fast becoming one of the city’s go-to choices for Chinese cuisine. We chat with one half of the group’s owners, Anita Yuen, about her passion for cooking and love of Asian food

囍凤台在悉尼各地共有四家餐厅，已经迅速成为悉尼人非常 喜爱的中餐厅。我们与餐厅老板之一ANITA YUEN聊到了她对 烹饪的热爱和她的亚洲美食情缘……

How did you get your start in the food industry? 您是如何开始在美食行业的工作的？

About 20 years ago I moved from Hong Kong to Sydney and found that the Chinese food culture was quite different to my home city, where I was brought up. Coincidentally, my sister and I were approached to start up our first restaurant.

美味，而且价格适中。另外，大多数时候亚洲美 食是与家人或朋友一起分享，因此可以同时尝 试更多的美食。

How is Australia’s dining scene different to the rest of the world’s? 澳大利亚的餐饮与世界其他地方有什么不同吗？

There are so many different types of cuisines in Australia and the people here 大约20年前，我从香港搬到了悉尼，发现这里的 enjoy their food with wine, which is a 中餐文化与我长大的香港完全不同。巧合的是， perfect match. The chefs here are mainly local Australians and they encourage young 我们姐妹都商量着打算开一家餐厅。 chefs, giving them lots of opportunities.

What do you love most about Asian cuisine? 澳大利亚有许多不同种类的美食，这里的人们喜 您最喜爱亚洲美食的什么？

There are so many splendid Asian cuisines that come from different parts of Asia and all of them have their own special styles and tastes. Thanks to the geographic locations of Asian countries, we have the luxury of fresh produce and ingredients. With the intelligence of chefs and their various cooking styles, you can have an amazing meal. 亚洲各地有许多的美食，它们都有自己独特的风 格和口味。由于亚洲各国所处的地理位置，我们 一直有着丰富的新鲜农产品和原料。再加上非常 有天赋的厨师和他们变化多端的烹饪风格，保 证能为我们奉上一顿美味大餐。

Why do you think Asian cuisine is so popular in Australia? 您认为是什么原因使得亚洲美食在澳大利亚如 此受欢迎？

As Australia is a multicultural country, Asian cuisine is popular among locals. Asian cuisine is fast, simple, tasty and not overly expensive. Also, most of the time, Asian food is about sharing with family or friends, so that more food can be tried at the same time.

If you were traveling to Beijing or Shanghai,

欢一边喝葡萄酒一边品尝美食，这简直是绝配。 what is your go-to restaurant? 这里的厨师主要是澳大利亚当地人，他们鼓励 如果到了北京或者上海，您会去什么餐厅？ 年轻有才华的厨师，为他们提供了许多机会。 If I’m traveling to Beijing, I’ll go to a restaurant

What is the best way to get a taste of local cuisine when travelling? 旅行的时候，品尝当地美食的最佳方式是什么？

Normally when I travel I’ll visit friends and they’ll take me to a restaurant that serves the best local cuisine. If I’m traveling to a place where I don’t know anyone (which is most likely not going to happen), then I’d do a quick Google search and look at the reviews. 通常当我旅行的时候，我会去拜访朋友，他们会 带我去当地最好的餐厅。如果到了一个我谁都不 认识的地方（这种情况不大可能发生），我会上 谷歌搜索然后看看评论。

What is your personal favorite dish from the Phoenix Group and why? 您最喜欢囍凤台的哪道菜？为什么？

My personal favorite is Roast Duck because the duck we choose is good size, the meat is tender and juicy, there’s lots of flavour and the skin is very crispy. We have our own 澳大利亚是一个有着多元文化的国家，因此亚 oven and our ducks are roasted twice a day 洲美食在当地很受欢迎。亚洲美食快速、简单、 to make sure it is fresh.

146

我最喜欢囍凤台的烤鸭，因为我们选的烤鸭大小 正好，鸭肉鲜嫩多汁，味道丰富，而且鸭皮很脆。 我们有我们自己的烤箱，每天烤两次，确保新鲜。

that’s famous for its Peking duck, as they are very famous for their duck slicing techniques.

When traveling to Shanghai, I’ll go to a restaurant famous for its juicy pork dumpling, freshwater seafood and Chinese tea. 如果是北京，我会去全聚德，他们的北京烤鸭非 常有名，片鸭的刀工相当了得。如果是上海，我 会一家以多汁猪肉水饺、海鲜和中国茶闻名的 餐厅。

What can you try at Phoenix that you won’t try anywhere else? 与其他餐厅相比，在囍凤台会有哪些独特的体 验？

I think our Yum Cha at Phoenix is known in the industry for the huge varieties, the freshness and the fast service that caters to the customers. We have traditional dim sim and kitchen snacks, plus new items always to surprise our customers. 在我看来，囍凤台的广式早茶品种多、新鲜、上 菜快，能够很好地满足顾客的需求。我们有各色 传统中式点心和零食，并且总有新的花样给顾 客带来惊喜。

W A T C H

B E Y O N D

BR V2 - 94 BLACK STEEL

· VIC Bell & Ross Boutique, Melbourne, 03 9650 7421 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Emporium Melbourne, 03 9639 6175 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Chadstone S/C, 03 9569 7652 NSW Hardy Brothers, Sydney, 02 8262 3100 | Hardy Brothers, Chatswood, 02 8423 2800 | Wamada Jewellery, Haymarket, 02 9281 8182 | Heinemann Tax & Duty Free, Sydney Airport QLD 8th Avenue Watch Co., Pacific Fair S/C, 07 5575 4883 | Hardy Brothers, Brisbane, 07 3625 8000 · WA Hardy Brothers, Perth, 08 6318 1000 · www.bellross.com

1 47