Higher View - Issue 10

April 2015

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE #10

#10

Sky’s the limit CHI NA ’ S B RE AT H T AKIN G M O DERN BU ILDIN GS

朗格 Grand Lange 1 玫瑰金月相腕表。Watches of Switzerland 是朗格钟表在澳大利亚的独家经销商。

澳大利亚最大的瑞士钟表授权经销商，家族拥有，值得信赖 Watches of Switzerland 有近二十年的历史，现已成为澳大利亚最大的瑞士领先品牌钟表授权经销商。 本店为家族经营，值得信赖。员工态度友好，不但普通话、广东话皆可交流，而且对瑞士钟表均有深入的了解。 经营品牌广泛，其中包括朗格(A.Lange & Söhne)、积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)、卡地亚(Cartier)、沛纳海(Panerai)、 万国(IWC)、宇舶(Hublot)、伯爵(Piaget)等等，欢迎前来选购！可以使用中国银联卡。全部钟表均有国际保证。 墨尔本: 294 Collins Street。悉尼: 199 George Street (四季酒店)。珀斯: 38 King Street。www.watchswiss.com

www.girard-perregaux.com www.girard-perregaux.com

Pink Kimberley Pink Kimberley jewellery jewellery is crafted is crafted from an from an exquisite exquisite blend blend of white of white diamonds diamonds and natural and natural Australian Australian pink diamonds pink diamonds from the from Argyle the Argyle Diamond Diamond Mine,Mine, whichwhich is located is located at the at East the East Kimberley Kimberley regionregion of Western of Western Australia.

Australia.

These These pink diamonds pink diamonds are theare rarest the rarest & most & precious most precious diamonds diamonds in the in world. the world.

歡迎𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷 歡迎𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷𦲷 Gold Point Gold House Point House

地址: 156 地址: Castlereagh 156 Castlereagh Street, Sydney Street, Sydney NSW 2000 NSW 2000 電話: 02 電話: 926602 0098 9266 0098

The Rising The Rising Sun International Sun International Pty LtdPty Ltd

地址: 107 地址: Parramatta 107 Parramatta Road, Haberfield Road, Haberfield NSW 2045 NSW 2045 電話: 02 電話: 971602 8858 9716 8858

Evergreen Evergreen Industries Industries International International Pty LtdPty Ltd

地址: 175 地址: Scarborough 175 Scarborough Street, Southport Street, Southport QLD 4215 QLD 4215 電話: 07 電話: 553207 6868 5532 6868

M Village M Village

地址: 31/70 地址:Newquay 31/70 Newquay Promenade, Promenade, Docklands Docklands VIC 3008 VIC 3008 電話: 03 電話: 967003 5888 9670 5888

The Perth The Mint Perth Mint

地址: 310 地址: Hat310 Street, Hat East Street, Perth EastWA Perth 6004 WA 6004 電話: 08 電話: 942108 7222 9421 7222

NZ International NZ International Pty LtdPty Ltd

地址: 1地址: Shipwright 1 Shipwright Lane, Parnell Lane, Parnell 電話: 64 電話: 930964 9368 9309 9368

查詢電話: 查詢電話: 18001800 228 668 228 668 瀏覽網址: 瀏覽網址: PinkKimberley.com.au PinkKimberley.com.au

2013 ARGYLE 2013 ARGYLE TENDERTENDER STONE LOT STONE 17 LOT 17 RECUT 0.38 RECUT CARAT 0.38 CARAT HEART HEART ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSFPR/VS2 FPR/VS2 GIA- FANCY GIAPURPLISH FANCY PURPLISH RED /VS2 RED /VS2

ALL PINK ALL PINK DIAMONDS DIAMONDS ARE ARE FROM FROM THE THE ARGYLE ARGYLE DIAMOND DIAMOND MINEMINE WESTERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIA.

稀世珍寶 稀世珍寶 彰顯尊貴 彰顯尊貴 唯獨粉紅金伯利 唯獨粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 (Pink Kimberley) (Pink Kimberley) 是一個典雅悅目的 是一個典雅悅目的 首飾品牌，採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 首飾品牌，採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦，是 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦，是 世界上獨一無二，極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 世界上獨一無二，極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。

2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2013 ARGYLE TENDERTENDER 2013 ARGYLE STONE LOT 32 LOT 32 STONE

2014 ARGYLE TENDERTENDER 2014 ARGYLE STONE LOT 10 LOT 10 STONE

ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDS4PP/SI2 4PP/SI2 GIA- FANCY GIAVIVID FANCY VIVID PURPLISHPURPLISH PINK /SI2 PINK /SI2

ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSRED/SI2 RED/SI2 GIA- FANCY GIAVIVID FANCY VIVID PURPLISHPURPLISH PINK /SI2 PINK /SI2

0.42 CARAT 0.42SQUARE CARAT SQUARE EMERALD EMERALD

0.54 CARAT 0.54SQUARE CARAT SQUARE RADIANTRADIANT

2014 ARGYLE TENDERTENDER 2014 ARGYLE STONE LOT 6 LOT 6 STONE 0.34 CARAT 0.34EMERALD CARAT EMERALD ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSRED/SI1 RED/SI1 GIA- NATURAL GIA- NATURAL FANCY FANCY RED /SI1 RED /SI1

2014 ARGYLE 2014 ARGYLE TENDERTENDER STONE LOT STONE 41 LOT 41 0.66PEAR CARAT PEAR 0.66 CARAT

ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDS4P/P1 4P/P1 GIA- FANCY GIAINTENSE FANCY INTENSE PINK /P1 PINK /P1

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

INTRODUCTION 22

Welcome from CNTO, Sydney

Welcome from China Eastern

曾

今

T

T

经有人说过，抬头看路是了解一个城市的最佳方法。而今天， 当您在中国各个城市抬头远观时，不难理解为何我国的天际 线迅速演变成世界所羡慕的对象。来自中国以及世界各地的顶级 建筑师联手协力打造令人惊叹的建筑来塑造我国的现代世界。今 期我们为您精心细选了十大建筑（从上海到北京到广州），并且回 顾最近几年巨大的变化，让今天的中国闪耀世界建筑设计的舞台。 翻到第52页至60页来阅读这篇耐人寻味的文章。 中国的现代面貌引来众人瞩目，不过往往能扣人心弦的却是过 去。以西安为例，一个距今已有3,500年历史的古都，拥有让人惊 叹的庙宇、城墙以及一个无疑是世界上最棒的旅游景点——秦始 皇陵兵马俑。翻到第72页至80页进一步探索中国古都。

hey say the best way to gauge a city is to look up.

Today, in China’s cities, if you look up you’ll see why our skyline is fast becoming the envy of the world.

Architects from China and the very best from across the globe are helping to shape our modern skylines with stunning examples of architecture. In this issue, we celebrate that with 10 of our favourite buildings (from Shanghai to Beijing and Guangzhou) and a look back at how things have changed so much in recent years to put China firmly on the building design map. Turn to pages 52-60 to find our fascinating feature.

But while people are being taken aback by the modern face of China, it’s often the past that takes their breath away. Just look at Xi’an with its 3,500 years of history, incredible temples, city wall, and the Terracotta Warriors, arguably one of the greatest tourist attractions in the world.

Discover more about China’s ancient capital on pages 72-80.

期《翼境》在各个方面均环绕着奢华的高端生活。上海拥有 中国些许最顶级的调酒师，要在此地有一个难忘的夜晚一点 也不费吹灰之力。除了有美味的鸡尾酒，还有醉人的美景相伴，国 内其它城市皆不能与上海的天台酒吧媲美，我们在第114页至120 页中为您介绍最佳之选。 这一期我们不是从高空俯瞰，而是反过来从低处往上看，看我 国让人惊叹的建筑设计以及壮观的天际线。是时候庆祝一下中国 在建筑方面的迅猛发展，让上海以及其他城市在建筑设计上备受 世界瞩目。翻到第52页至60页，我们不仅来看蜕变的过程，还为您 精心细选了十大建筑。另外带领您游览北京的天坛（98页至102页） 以及中国古都西安（72页至80页）。 his issue of Higher View really is all about living the high life – in every sense. Shanghai knows more than a thing or two about having a memorable night out, with its mixologists some of the best in China – if not the best.

But what it also excels at is serving them up with a view as incredible as the cocktails are delicious. No city in China does rooftop bars quite like Shanghai, and we celebrate the best of them on pages 114-120.

When we’re not looking down from great heights, we’re looking up – at the incredible buildings that populate our city skylines. We felt it was time to celebrate the huge strides that have been made in Chinese architecture to put our cities – Shanghai and beyond – on the modern design map. On pages 52-60 we not only look at how this change has taken place but also list 10 of our favourites. Also on our radar this month is Beijing’s Temple of Heaven (pages 98-102) and Xi’an, China’s ancient capital (pages 72-80).

Higher View Issue 10

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

Creative Director Paul Cook

Advertising

business-class passengers

Group Editor Alex Mead

Contributors Qin Xie, Adrian Mourby, Sarah O’Meara, May Hu, Anne Smith, Pan Hua, Mark Parren Taylor

Editorial Director Richard Ryan

Max La-Brooy (02) 9186 9138 max@citrusmedia.com.au

between China and Australia.

Production Manager Ian Scott

alexm@citrusmedia.com.au

Art Director Stephanie Goh Editorial Assistants Constantina Pilatos, Trent van der Jagt

Higher View is produced for on China Eastern flights It can also be found in select

Crystal Wong (02) 9186 9126

newsagents and hotels.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au

via the App Store.

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 9186 9196

Citrus Media

Printed by Webstar.

World Square

Cover image

jim@citrusmedia.com.au

NSW 2002

by Getty

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

An iPad edition is available

PO Box 20154

© 2015 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher.

Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.

All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do

not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies.

Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/ photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

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Contents

90 AU S T R A L I A

Hayman Island

29 News 时事要闻 What’s going on where across China and Australia 38 Qingdao in eight stops 文化名城青岛 Here are the places not to miss in this cultural city 44 Guided tour 建筑之旅 Discover Sydney’s finest architecture on this tour 46 48 hours in Perth 珀斯48小时 Spend two days exploring this culture-filled capital 50 黄金州——西澳 从前极为荒凉，至今却成为 澳大利亚最富有的国度，潘 华、胡玫带领我们一探究竟 52 Building to the future 未来建筑 Modern Chinese architecture is making an impact

Contents 142

Kailis

142

Mulberry

114 CHIN A

Shanghai bars 62 A taste of Tassie 舌尖上的塔州 Australia’s island state has become a gourmand’s paradise

98 Heaven on earth 人间天堂 Beijing may be a bustling city but it still has places of serenity, such as Tiantan

72 Hidden treasures 西安瑰宝 With 3,500 years of history, you’ll be amazed

by Xi’an’s treasures

104 Where it all began 一切从这里开始 The Rocks has become Sydney’s very own time capsule

82 Winter wonders 冬日之雪 China’s ski scene is rapidly becoming one of the coolest on the planet

114 Living the high life 上海酒吧 Shanghai bars pair spectacular views with stunning cocktails

90 The only one 只此一家 Hayman Island is one of Australia’s most exclusive. We pay a visit...

124 Grape ideas 住在葡萄间 Escape to the countryside at these luxury wine estates

82

Winter wonders

62

A tas te of Ta ssie

134 In search of Shangri-La 佛教圣地 Explore Yunnan’s Buddhist mecca 141 Higher life 奢华生活 The latest luxury goods from world-leading brands 148 Forever young 青春万岁 Bally’s Spring/Summer 2015 Mens Collection

156 Full bloom 花团锦簇 Thom Browne’s Resort 2015 Collection exclusive to Harrolds 162 My higher life 著名油画家边健 We chat to internationally renowned oil painter Bian Jian

ൈܻྛᆀ‫ڄ‬ഉ༢ਙDLC ࠹ൈ઒іაྨcࢭक़ણ ‫ג‬ሞᅙྍۚ؇ ᆃॻሱ‫࠹׮‬ൈ઒іҐႨٝଈ෥֥ো ቇฏ؅Ҫ (DLC) ࣚ‫ۑ‬і॔ࠣᅤཁ ‫׻‬൧ളࠃჭ෍֥Էྍ‫ڄ‬ഉۚରႨྟ ௃۪іջđӮູଢ଼ളࠃ֥ഉࡄϴ੩b ࠧख़֨੤Montblanc.com‫ܓ‬໾

Sydney 75 Castlereagh Street · 115 King Street | Melbourne 175 Collins Street Brisbane 171 Edward Street | Perth 125 St Georges Terrace | 1300 36 4810

Exclusive, Exquisite, unchanged by Time ~ Martin and Stein

An Art Deco platinum diamond rock crystal and chalcedony bead bracelet.

Attributed to the Gloria Vanderbilt Collection.

Shop 22, The Grand Walk, Queen Victoria Building, 445 George Street, Sydney Telephone (02) 9267 6628 Facsimile (02) 9267 4757

GOOD TASTE

NEW YEAR

ON POINT

GREAT OUTDOORS

Noosa showcases the best of its local produce p30

Australia’s capital cities celebrate Chinese New Year p32

Sleeping Beauty comes to China in 2015 p34

Summer in Sydney and the events you can’t miss p40

感官享受 于1990年代是华丽的德宝湾丽思卡尔顿酒店，后来 耗资2,500万进行全面修复及重塑品牌，成为了今天 崭新的洲际酒店。酒店设有140间宽敞的套房，大堂 的装潢富丽堂皇，地板采用意大利大理石，天花板悬 吊着重160公斤的吊灯，气派十足。每晚$390起。 intercontinental.com/doublebay

double vision

Intercontinental has splashed $25m on a restoration of Double Bay’s former Ritz-Carlton. The all-new Intercontinental Double Bay in Sydney boasts spectacular new features including a 160kg chandelier that looms high above Italian marble floors in the lobby and 140 spacious, luxury rooms. From $390 per night, intercontinental.com/doublebay

DON’T MISS 不容错过

NEWS

南方之星 举办了超过50年的阿德莱德艺术节是盛大的艺术庆典之一， 以一系列精彩的舞蹈、音乐、戏剧及文学周为观众带来无比 的欢乐与体验。节庆于澳大利亚阳光明媚、温暖的三月份 举行。2月27日－3月15日。

Southern stars

Dance, music, theatre, film and literature – Adelaide Festival is sure to thrill any audience, as it has done for over 50 years. Discover all the talent on offer over sunny days and balmy evenings this March.

February 27 – March 15, adelaidefestival.com.au

Photograph by Sharen Bradford

30

STAY

澳大利亚 田园体验 位于蓝 山 的六 星 级 碳 平 衡 沃 根 谷 度假 村酒店被南非亿万富翁及酒店巨头SOL KERZNER接管。这将会是ONE&ONLY酒 店集团于2 014年7月份在海曼岛开张后 （详情请参阅第90页）在澳大利亚的第二 家豪华度假村酒店。该集团一向以无与伦 比的豪华体验著称，而沃根谷度假村酒店 将会为客人提供更多独特的体验。

second site for one&only

Fine finishes SOME OF THE UNIQUE SETTINGS AT ONE & ONLY WOLGAN VALLEY

Billionaire South African hotelier Sol Kerzner is set to take control of Blue Mountains, carbon-neutral, six-star resort Wolgan Valley. This will be One&Only’s second resort in Australia, following the successful rebirth of One&Only Hayman Island in July 2014 (see p90). The resort will see the addition of unique guest experiences the brand is known for.

wolganvalley.com/theresort

Coast along

NEWS

Noosa turns into an oasis of all things food, wine and music for the 2015 Noosa International Food & Wine Festival. More than 250 of the best in food, wine and lifestyle will descend on the coastal Queensland town for four days of cooking demonstrations, long lunches and wine-filled dinners. May 14-17, noosafoodandwine.com.au

鲁沙美食佳酿 2015鲁沙国际美食美酒节把鲁沙摇身一变成为了美食、佳酿以及音乐的 人间天堂。为期四天的节庆将会有超过250位顶尖厨师、酿酒师以及生活 时尚达人齐聚昆士兰海边城市鲁沙，为我们带来各种精彩绝伦的活动，包 括烹饪示范、悠长午宴以及配搭佳酿的晚餐。5月14-17日。

Up and coming...

JUST ANNOUNCED, AUSTRALIA WILL SEE SOME FRESH-FACED HOTELS...

A concierge’s Darwin 达尔文诺富特中庭酒店礼宾部主管 DANIELLE WOODS DANIELLE WOODS, CHIEF CONCIERGE AT NOVOTEL DARWIN ATRIUM Must see Darwin attractions... To get a true glimpse into our culture and history you have to visit Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, Fannie Bay Gaol George Brown Botanic Gardens and the Northern Territory Museum and Art Galley. 达尔文必去景点：到访明迪海滩日落市场、芬尼湾监狱乔 治布朗植物园以及北领地博物馆及艺术馆来真正体验我们 的文化与历史。

Something to avoid... As pristine and inviting

SOFITEL SYDNEY

W BRISBANE

as our beaches may appear, swimmining in them is

法国国际奢华酒店品牌索菲特将被建于悉尼情人港。索菲 特酒店素以高贵典雅的设计著称，设有600间客房，预计 于2017年年底完工。

首家W酒店将于2018年进驻澳大利亚。这家斥资八 亿元的六星级酒店位于布里斯班的 乔治街上。

best avoided unless you can outswim a crocodile or

French elegance comes to Sydney’s Darling Harbour in the form of a 600-room Sofitel, which is to completed by late 2017.

Australia will welcome its first W Hotel in 2018. Brisbane’s George Street will play host to the $800 million, six-star hotel,

sofitel.com

starwoodhotels.com

box jellyfish. Best to stick to the city pools. 切记避免做的事：我们的海滩虽然看上去很纯净诱人，实 际上常有鳄鱼及带有剧毒的箱型水母出没，所以游泳还是 到城市内的游泳池，尽量避免在海滩游泳。

Try something new... Magic Wok restaurant boasts a large amount of Aussie meats, including crocodile, emu and kangaroo.

扬帆出海

magicwok.com.au 尝试新事物：Magic Wok餐厅有大量各种澳大利亚肉类供

您在五星级酒店里所看到的在ABERCROMBIE & KENT旅游集团的豪华船舶“长江探索号”也能找得 到，只是变成在水上体验而已。 “长江探索号”带领 您畅游长江三峡，探索这个历史悠久且美丽动人的 地方。探索号每次只能容纳124位乘客，因此建议您 提早预约。12天行程$4,995起。

array of wildlife we have in Darwin, the Outback

smooth sailing

值得参加的旅行团：体验达尔文独一无二的野生生态环

It’s decked out with all the mod cons you’d find in a five-star hotel, with one difference: it floats on water. Abercrombie & Kent’s luxury vessel Sanctuary ‘Yangzi Explorer’ will take you on a voyage of discovery through the Three Gorges region, a place with thousands of years of history as well as timeless beauty. 12 days from $4,995,

abercrombiekent.com

应，包括鳄鱼肉、鸸鹋肉及袋鼠肉。

Tours to join... To get a real feel of the unique Float Plane Adventures is a must! Experience the creatures of the north from air, land and sea in this all-in-one tour. outbackfloatplanes.com.au

境，绝对不能错过内陆水上飞机冒险团！让您一次过以海、 陆、空三种不同的方式来一趟北领地探险之旅。

Phrases that might be helpful... We tend to shorten a range of English words. Afternoon in Darwin is often referred to as ‘arvo.’ 实用谚语：我们喜欢把一些英文字简短 化。“AFTERNOON”（下午）在达尔文常常被简化成 为“ARVO”。

31

SPECIAL EVENT

NEWS

澳大利亚的中国农历新年 Chinese New Year in Australia

32

澳大利亚有许多华人聚居，因此澳大利亚的主要城市举办一些世界上最盛大的中国农 历新年庆典活动并不足为奇。我们挑选出几个最盛大的迎羊年庆典活动⋯⋯ AUSTRALIA IS HOME TO SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS IN THE WORLD. NEEDLESS TO SAY, THREE OF OUR STATE CAPITALS ARE ONCE AGAIN LEADING THE WAY IN BRINGING IN THE YEAR OF THE SHEEP

SYDNEY

MELBOURNE

BRISBANE

今年的农历新年花灯大巡游将以羊为主题， 色彩斑斓的彩灯、花车及幻彩投影将点亮悉 尼大街小巷的楼宇堂馆。届时3,000名表演者 将从悉尼的市政局巡游至中国城，最后以绚 丽的烟花画上圆满句号。巡游期间，您会看 到巨型美利奴羊、牧羊女BO PEEP以及纺羊 毛的老奶奶等各式各样的造型。 2015年2月22日。

墨尔本迎新春的代表性庆典活动——位于墨 尔本度假酒店河畔的 CROWN’S HAWKERS BAZAAR。第十二届的春节庆典为期四天， 将会有超过60个集市摊点、舞狮表演、现场 娱乐节目以及风水示范。 2015年1月30日－2月2日。

位于毅力谷的中国城商场将成为举办农历 新年庆典各类活动的中心位置，为期十天 的庆典包括舞蹈、音乐表演、放鞭炮及太 极示范。毅力谷中国城商场的餐厅更会提 供特别的美食来同庆盛典。

The Twilight Parade will honour all things sheep, with lanterns, floats and projections lighting up the city’s streets and buildings as 3,000 performers parade from Sydney Town Hall to Chinatown, concluding with fireworks around midnight. February 22, sydneychinesenewyear.com

An iconic tradition in Melbourne’s Lunar New Year celebrations, Crown’s riverside will again come to life for Crown’s Hawkers Bazaar. Its 12th instalment will see more than 60 food and market stalls, lion processions, live entertainment and feng shui demonstrations take place over four days. January 30 – February 2, crownmelbourne.com.au

Chinatown Mall in Fortitude Valley will become a gathering spot for celebrations in Brisbane, with 10 days of festivities taking place including dancing, musical performances, firecrackers and tai chi displays. There will also be special food offerings and New Year delicacies found at all the Valley Chinatown Mall restaurants.

Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley

BEIJING

DON’T MISS 不容错过

Bath time

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SLEEPING BE AUT Y Sleeping Beauty will be woken from her slumber yet again with the Australian Ballet mounting a new multi-million dollar production that will tour China in 2015 – keep checking in for release of dates. australianballet.com.au

Beat the winter chills at Shunjingwenquan bathhouse. Slip into your swimsuit and take a dip in the bathing pool or head out to the lounge area, which is adorned with boulder fixtures, large trees, waterfalls and bamboo cabanas for resting. In addition to saunas, hot rooms, cooling pools and a dry steam room, numerous hot-spring spas are available. shunjingwenquan.com

HOT HOTEL

FL ASH CIT Y China’s capital is now home to W Beijing – Chang’an. The 349room, hi-tech hotel is close to tourist attractions Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. Its main feature is the Living Room bar that highlights an LED-lit catwalk, suspended golden globe DJ booth hanging from the ceiling and a ‘secret’ space tucked away behind the bar. From $245 per night starwoodhotels.com/whotels

Dim sum delights Huang Ting restaurant puts a contemporary spin on the traditional dim sum, recreating it into a fine-dining delicacy. Guests are offered a choice of 10 different dim sum, with some that feature indulgent ingredients such as caviar. beijing.peninsula.com

Exquisite jewellery handcrafted in Australia, using precious Western Australian gold, rare Argyle pink diamonds and Australian South Sea pearls.

Linneys 珠宝系列使用珍贵的西澳大利亚黄 金 、备受追捧的阿盖尔粉钻石和美丽的澳 洲南洋珍珠，来呈现出精美的手工制作珠 宝首饰。 We invite you to visit our showroom at 3005/6 Level 3, Westfield Sydney, Castlereagh Street, to view our collection.

Phone (+61 2) 8246 9088 to receive your complimentary catalogue.

linneys.com.au

Perth I Sydney

SHANGHAI

DON’T MISS 不容错过

Back to t h e f ut u r e Not every city tour is about the past – tour group Shanghai Flaneur focuses on the present and future development. Take to the streets by foot and let your guide introduce you to the futuristic buildings and architectural feats that can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Choose from a list of focus topics from architecture to business and art.

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shanghai-fflaneur.com

PROJECT AEGIS Fans of Shanghai menswear boutique Project Aegis take note: the brand has not only opened its second store, but it has also worked in a few added extras. The ‘Project Aegis Coffee Bar’ will feature on the second floor together with a range of vintage-style arcade machines, including childhood favourites Pacman and Street Fighter 2. projectaegis.com

hot spot

In the past six months, Black Pepper has established itself as one of the most popular spots at the buzzing Zhong Plaza complex beside Nanjing Xi Lu metro station. An upscale all-youcan-eat option from the people behind Garlic, Black Pepper offers 20 courses of delicious meats, breads and more for 228 RMB/person.

Bldg B, Floor 2, 89 Taixing Lu, near Wujiang Lu.

BESPOKE SHANGHAI

When it comes to night-time glamour, Shanghai has form (for proof, flick to our Shanghai bar feature on p114). Bespoke Shanghai will introduce you to some of the city’s best bartenders who will create an artisanal cocktail featuring your choice of liquor. bespoketravelcompany.com

QINGDAO

ESSENTIAL

Qingdao ...IN EIGHT STOPS

A rare modern city that has managed to preserve its past, Qingdao is a blend of concession era buildings, beaming skyscrapers and ancient temples...

2

Zhongshan Park

A vast 69 hectares of lakes, gardens, walking paths and an amusement park in the centre of Qingdao, Zhongshan Park is the crown jewel. Take the cable car to Taiping Hill where the TV tower resides.

3

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Haushi Lou

4

Saint Michael’s Cathedral

Up a hill off Zhongshan Lu looms this grand Gothicand Roman-style church.

Completed in 1934, it has been heavily damaged over time but is slowly being restored.

Built in 1930, Haushi Lou was the first home of a Russian aristocrat. While most rooms are closed, you can clamber up two narrow stairwells to the turret for a great view.

1

6

Huangdao Market

8

Little Qingdao

In the heart of Old Town, this street market is packed with vendors selling seafood, chicken, pancakes, fruit and local eats. To get a true taste of the city, this is the place.

Tsingtao Beer Museum

Still an operating brewery, Tsingtao Beer Museum is a solid introduction to China’s iconic beer. On view are old photos, preserved brewery equipment and statistics – and, thankfully, sample brews along the way.

5

Governor’s House

Built in 1903 at a cost of 2,450,000 taels of silver by an indulgent governor, whom Kaiser Wilhelm II immediately sacked when he saw the bill. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed at the Governor’s House with his wife and kids on holiday.

7

Golden Sand Beach

An undersea tunnel linking Huangdao and Shinan puts Golden Sand Beach within easy reach of Old Town. If you’re after a nature fix the large expanse of sand, sea and sky will provide.

In the shape of a qin (a stringed instrument), this former island was connected to the mainland in the 1940s. The Germans built a lighthouse in 1900 on the leafy promontory.

SYDNEY

炎炎夏日玩转悉尼，充分利用悉尼阳光明媚的每一天， 尽情享受一系列的户外活动 Taking full advantage of Sydney’s sizzling summer, here’s a collection of the city’s best outdoor events

澳食盛宴 EATING OUT 悉尼晨鋒報新南威尔斯州美食美酒节强势回归，一连串精彩的活动让新 州最优秀的土特产及葡萄酒产区齐聚同庆佳酿美馔的无边乐趣⋯⋯ The Sydney Morning Herald NSW Food and Wine Festival is back, celebrating the state’s finest produce and wine regions with a series of events...

歌剧之声 High note 到访悉尼歌剧院参加一场精彩绝伦的视听盛宴《GREAT OPERA HITS》。您将会在这场长达90分钟的户外音乐会中听到莫扎特、 普契尼、罗西尼和威尔第的著名乐曲。即日起至3月22日。

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Stroll down to the Sydney Opera House and join a selection of Australia’s best voices for Great Opera Hits. The 90-minute, outdoor concert will feature famous arias from Bizet, Puccini, Rossini and Verdi. Sessions on till March 22, sydneyoperahouse.com

汽泡早午餐

悉尼酒窖节

一边品尝产自新南威尔斯州的汽泡酒，一边 享用城中一些最顶级的厨师为您烹调的美 味早餐。2月7日－3月1日。

品酒帐篷、结识酿酒师、美食佳酿配对 环节、土特产市集以及现场音乐等一系 列有趣的活动将于周末点亮海德公园。 2月27日－3月1日。

Sparkling Brunches

Sip a glass of NSW sparkling wine while some of the city’s finest chefs whip you a up a gourmet breakfast.

Hyde Park, February 7 - March 1

Sydney Cellar Door

Tasting tents, meet the winemaker, food-matching sessions, an artisan food producers’ market and live music complete the perfect weekend in Hyde Park.

February 27 – March 1

游览各地区 悉尼美食指南（帽子餐厅评鉴）中的餐厅将 举行一次性土特产的庆祝活动，期间将有 一些新州的顶级酿酒师出席。 2月7日－3月1日。

Tour the Regions

Sydney’s hatted Good Food Guide restaurants host one-off celebrations of regional produce, with guest appearances by some of the state’s top winemakers.

February 7 - March 1

nswfoodandwine.com.au

DON’T MISS

星空之下 在夏日晴朗美丽的夜晚还有什么活动比得上在露天影院来一场 户外电影。露天影院设在百年纪念公园，在月光星空的照耀下 靠着柔软舒适的豆袋，一手拿着口感清脆的白葡萄酒，一手拿 着干酪松露薯条来观赏电影大片，简直是看电影的顶级享受。 即日起至3月9日。

Stars of the night What better way to spend a summer’s night than at the Moonlight Cinemas? Set in Centennial Park under the stars, enjoy a blockbuster film with a crisp white wine in one hand and parmesan truffle fries in the other, all while laying back on a bean bed. Till March 9, moonlight.com.au

FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE 119 COLLINS STREET TEL: 03 9650 0288 MELBOURNE ANTON JEWELLERY TEL: 03 9569 1000 SYDNEY SHUM’S WATCHES AND JEWELLERY TEL: 02 9211 1887 SWISS CONCEPT TEL: 02 9221 6288 SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT SYD TAX AND DUTY FREE TEL: 1800 733 000

MELBOURNE

DON’T MISS 不容错过

黑色电影 中国杰出影像艺术家杨福东将在澳大利亚 移动影像中心举办展览《电影中的风景》 ，从展览中所看到他的多屏影像装置能体 现出他对国际电影，尤其是黑色电影的迷 恋。即日起至3月12日。

Film me up Exploring his fascination with international cinema and, in particular, film noir, Chinese artist Yang Fudong will present multi-channel film installations for his exhibition Filmscapes at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image. Until March 12, acmi.net.au

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热舞缠绵

时尚暖意 墨尔本迎来了澳大利亚第二家UGG Australian Made Since1974旗舰店，是全国扩展名单上的首个城市。限量版系 列Hello Kitty凯蒂猫雪地靴也将于店内全线发售，该系列由设 计师Yuki Yamaguchi于维多利亚州亲自发布。

在《辣身舞》 （Dirty Dancing: The classic story on stage）大型音乐剧中重温Baby与 Johnny的经典爱情故事。这部有数百万观众 遍布全球的大型音乐剧拥有震荡人心的音乐、 激情浪漫的情节以及火辣撩人的舞姿。 3月4日－4月19日。

TIME OF YOUR L IFE

UGG TIME Melbourne is set to welcome the arrival of an UGG Australia store, the first on a list of national expansion. Available in store will be UGG’s limited edition Hello Kitty range, which saw designer Yuki Yamaguchi in Victoria to launch the range. uggsince1974.com.au

Relive the iconic love story of Baby and Johnny in Dirty Dancing: The Classic Story on Stage. Seen by millions across the globe this musical explodes with heart-pounding tunes, passionate romance and sultry dancing. March 4 – April 19, ticketmaster.com.au

大赢家 Crowd pleasers 我们为您呈献来自墨尔本最顶级的餐厅菜单上精挑细选出的一些出众菜色⋯⋯ We’ve hand-picked the stand-out dishes from Melbourne’s most exclusive restaurant menus

Minted Potato

Tuna tartare

Tea smoked eggs

@ ATTICA

@ CUMULUS INC.

@ LEE HO FOOK

这道看似简单的菜色采用VIRGINIA ROSE品种 的马铃薯，以六款不同种类的薄荷烹调而成，口 感饱满，洋溢着溶化的奶油及酪浆的香味。 This simple dish of Virginia Rose potato cooked in a variety of six different types of mint is exploding with full, warm flavours of brown butter and buttermilk.

绿油油的碎青豆沙拉上摆放着以醋、柠檬和酱油腌 制过的金枪鱼，外形跟生鱼片相像。味道清淡新鲜， 是炎炎夏日的最佳之选。 Sashimi-style tuna coated in a zesty marinade of vinegar, lemon and soy, laid on a garden bed made up of crushed green pea salad. Light and fresh, this is the perfect summer dish. cumulusinc.com.au

切成两半的鸡蛋带着浓浓的烟熏香味，溏心蛋黄 蘸上了鲱鱼鱼子酱，底下还有一抹葱油，品尝过 后教人回味无穷。 Two halves of a hen’s egg with a flicker of smoky tannins and avruga on the just-gooey yolks and a slick of spring onion oil hiding in the bottom. It will leave you wanting more. leehofook.com.au

attica.com.au

GUIDED TOUR

THINGS TO DO

Sydney architecture LEAD BY PRACTISING ARCHITECTS, THIS TOUR WILL INTRODUCE YOU TO SOME OF THE CITY’S MOST DARING AND PROVOCATIVE BUILDINGS...

悉尼建筑之旅 这趟由执业建筑师领导的悉尼建筑之旅， 为您介绍城中一些风格最大胆摩登的建筑大楼

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Aurora Place 这栋高层建筑是商务办公及住宅公寓的混合体，是 扬名世界的建筑天才RENZO PIANO在澳大利亚的 首个杰作。 Designed by Renzo Piano, a genius in the world of architecture, this office and apartment building was his first piece of work in Australia and also his first high-rise structure to be built.

Governor Phillip Tower & Museum of Sydney

1 Bligh Street

墨尔本建筑事务所精心设计建造的菲利普总督大厦 和悉尼博物馆，建筑外形又高又黑，帅气的设计背 后蕴藏了许多的设计构想与概念有待发掘。

由德国建筑师 CHRISTOPH INGENHOVEN打造的 建筑，除了其摩登时尚的设计之外，还是澳大利亚 最聪明及最绿化的项目之一，为悉尼未来全面关注 气候转变踏出重要的一步。

The black-suited Melbourne firm Denton Corker Marshall’s tall, dark and handsome Governor Phillip Tower + Museum of Sydney will be explored.

One of Australia’s cleverest and greenest projects is the work of German architect Christoph Ingenhoven. This piece is a step into the climate-aware future of Sydney.

From $39 per person, sydneyarchitecture.org

®®

The best that nature can supply

NPA

8+

MGO

200

NPA

12+

MGO

400

NPA

16+

MGO

600

NPA

20+

MGO

800

Australian by Nature 有一系列的纯生物活性麦卢卡蜂蜜。为了确保我们的客户得到最优质的生 物活性麦卢卡蜂蜜，每批 Australian by Nature 麦卢卡蜂蜜都在认证试验室进行单独测试，测试 方法由新西兰怀卡托大学 （University of Waikato) 的彼得﹒莫兰博士 （Dr Peter Molan） 开发。 我们的麦卢卡蜂蜜源自自有的养蜂场 （位于新西兰远北地区毛利人传统土地上的原始森林中） ，100% 纯天然，未添加糖或防腐剂。 我们的系列产品包括认证非过氧化氢活性 （NPA） 级别分别为8+、12+、16+ 和 20+ 的生物麦卢 卡蜂蜜，以 及麦卢卡混合蜂蜜。 可在悉尼，墨尔本，布里斯班和珀斯国际机场离港，免税。 也可在主要城市的健康，维生素和免税商店。

www.australianbynature.com.au

获得商铺地址

48 HOURS 46

48 HOURS IN

Perth Coastal beaches, hip cafes and contemporary galleries; Perth is a city packed with culture.

Spoilt for choice, Constantina Pilatos picks out the best attractions to visit 海滨沙滩、时尚的咖啡厅以及当代艺术馆，珀斯是一个文化气 息浓厚的城市。Constantina Pilatos在不胜枚举的选择中为您 挑选出最值得到访的旅游景点⋯⋯ Photography Tourism Western Australia, Jarrad Seng, Stu Morley

DAY ONE 第一天 8am

enough to be visiting between March 6-24, you’ll catch Sculptures by the Sea, where the beach transforms into a stunning seaside sculpture park.

10am Perth is also famed for its historic buildings. With its foreboding fivemetre-high walls enclosing a nearly six-hectare site, the old convict-era Fremantle Prison still dominates the present-day area, its tales of adventure and hardship living on. The Doing Time Tour departs every 30 minutes from 10am and takes in the kitchens, men’s cells, solitary-confinement cells, whipping posts (people could be sentenced to up to 100 lashes of the cat-o’-nine tails, although most would die after 30), the gallows and chapel.

上午10时

Cottesloe Beach is best in the morning. 珀斯除了有众多的咖啡厅之外，还有许多历史 Pretty much people-free, the wide 建筑物。拥有5米高的围墙、6公顷土地的弗 grassy Cottesloe Esplanade is the 上午8时 里曼特尔监狱（Fremantle Prison），不仅在 ideal spot to enjoy the view after 清晨的科特索海滩（Cottesloe Beach）是 拥有严厉惩罚体系的时代独当一面，现在更 you’ve grabbed some breakfast from 最惬意的。特别是在Vans咖啡厅享用早餐 是一座赫赫有名的遗产建筑物。导游游览团 Vans – opt for the potato waffles or 过 后 ， 前 往 人 烟 稀 少 、 绿 草 如 茵 的 海 滨 大 （Doing Time Tour）每天十点开始，每三十分 breakfast bruschetta. If in need of 道观看壮丽的美景。珀斯拥有浓浓的咖啡 钟出发一次，带领您参观监狱里的厨房、男生 something a bit more loaded, try their 文化，因此这里有不少咖啡厅供选择，它们 监狱、单独监禁的地方、鞭打的位置（最高处 Bloody Mary. As an alternative at 的餐单也相当有创意。在Vans咖啡厅，我 罚是被九尾鞭鞭打100鞭，可是大部分犯人在 Vans, we also recommend going for 们建议您来一份烟熏培根鸡蛋厚切拖鞋面 30鞭之后便死去）、绞刑架及小教堂。 the thick cut smoked bacon and egg 包（Ciabatta）。倘若您是3月6 — 24日期 ciabatta. But the cafe culture is rich in 间到访科特索海滩，就有幸参加海边雕塑展 11am Perth so there are plenty of options （Sculptures by the Sea），展览期间整个海 A 10-minute walk away is Round House. with stellar menus. If you’re lucky 滩摇身一变成为一个壮观的海滨雕塑园。 Built in the 1830s, this curious 12-sided

48 HOURS

A LOCAL HOTSPOT IN SUMMER, PERTH’S COTTESLOE BEACH

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stone prison is the oldest building in Western Australia. It was the site of the colony’s first hangings, including that of 15-year-old John Gavin (convicted of murdering his employer’s son).

上午11时 从监狱徒步十分钟便来到圆屋（Round House）。建于1830年代，这栋共有十二 个面，以砖石建造而成的监牢是西澳最古 老的建筑物。这里是殖民地进行第一绞刑 的地方，首批犯人包括15岁的John Gavin （被判谋杀他雇主的儿子）。

2pm After the morning sightseeing, refuel at Greenhouse. This restaurant’s innovative design – straw bales, corrugated iron and living exterior walls covered with 5,000 individual pot plants – is combined with good food.

The sustainably sourced menu is Asian and Middle Eastern inspired, featuring spiced lamb with yoghurt and quinoa, and lamb with pistachio and pomegranate.

下午2时 早上观光过后，来到Greenhouse餐厅享用一 顿午餐。餐厅的设计别具一格，稻草包、瓦楞 铁，还有被5,000个植物盆栽覆盖的外墙，极 具生命力。这里不仅有独特的装潢，还有一流

的食物。食材取自可持续发展的来源，菜色风 味受亚洲及中东的启发，不容错过的便是五香 牛肉配酸奶及藜麦，还有开心果石榴煮羊肉。

3pm As Perth is full with history, it is equalled with modernity. The Bell Tower is a pointy glass spire fronted by copper sails and is home to the royal bells of London’s St Martin’s-in-the-Fields, the oldest of which dates to 1550. They were given to Western Australia by the British government in 1988, and are the only set known to have left England. Make your way to the top for 360-degree views of Perth by the river.

下午3时 珀斯是一个充满历史的地方，同时也富有现代 风情。高耸入云的玻璃尖顶钟楼（Bell Tower） ，原是伦敦圣马丁教堂白金汉宫的钟楼，最古 老的一个能追溯到1550年。1998年英国政府 把其中一个送赠给西澳，成为唯一一个离开英 国的钟楼。到顶层能观看360度珀斯河边全景。

4pm Founded in 1895, the Art Gallery of Western Australia is the state’s preeminent art collection. It contains important post-WWII works by such Australian luminaries as Arthur Boyd,

Albert Tucker, Grace Cossington Smith, Russell Drysdale, Arthur Streeton and Sidney Nolan – but it’s the Indigenous galleries that provide the highlight.

下午4时 西澳大利亚博物馆成立于1895年，是该 州超凡的艺术收藏馆。馆内收藏了出自 澳大利亚名人如 Arthur Boyd 、Albert Tucker、Grace Cossington Smith、Russell

48 HOURS

SMOOTH JAZZ IS SOFTLY PLAYED, CREATING A CALMING AMBIENCE, AT MOORE & MOORE CAFE

Between lunch and tea breaks sit on the deck and take in the views of Perth and its always-beaming sunshine.

上午11时30分 昨天的行程排得密密麻麻，今天反过来是休闲 轻松地享受城市风光。登上一艘豪华船舶，一 边畅游天鹅河（Swan River）一边享用美味 的当地海鲜自助午餐。利用午餐过后，下午茶 之前的这段时间坐在甲板上观赏珀斯的城市美 景以及享受其四季洋溢的阳光。

3pm

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Throwing some culture into the mix, Western Australia Museum has six branches in Fremantle, Albany, Geraldton and Kalgoorlie, but this one includes dinosaur, mammal and a butterfly gallery display covering indigenous and colonial history. In the courtyard, set in its own preservative Drysdale Arthur Streeton 及Sidney Nolan 吧，那非Mechanics Institute酒吧莫属。位 bath, is Megamouth, a curious-looking 等二战后的重要作品。不过其中最精彩的是 于詹姆斯街（James Street）拐角处有一个 species of shark with a rounded head. 展示原住民作品的画廊。 小巷入口，从那里走进去便能发掘珀斯一些 Only 59 of these creatures have ever 酒吧。这些酒吧虽然低调，却拥有让人惊叹 been found. This one beached itself 6pm 的酒单。阿德莱德是澳大利亚的“葡萄酒州” near Mandurah, south of Perth.

For an early dinner head to Nunam ，而西澳是国家的“黄金液体”啤酒之州。喜 Thai. Not your average Thai restaurant, 欢啤酒的酒客一定对在Mechanics酒吧能喝 下午3时 Nunam experiments with interesting 到由Two Birds Brewing酿制的各种精酿啤酒 为 这 趟 珀 斯 之 旅 加 插 一 点 文 化 元 素 ， 西 澳 taste combinations – duck with lychees 而感到非常的兴奋。在黑夜结束，黎明到来 博物馆在弗里曼特尔（Fremantle）、阿伯 is the speciality, but we love the soft-shell 之前，您必定希望能赶紧逐一品尝各种不同 尼（Albany）、杰罗顿（Geraldton）及 crab with watermelon – and serves them 的精酿啤酒。 卡尔古利（Kalgoorlie）共有六家分馆，不 in an elegant candlelit dining room. 过唯独西澳这家有恐龙、哺乳类动物和蝴 蝶的展馆，展品还涵盖了土著和殖民地时 下午6时 DAY TWO 第二天 代的历史。在庭院的专用池中有一条巨口 早一点来到泰国餐厅Nunum吃晚 鲨，它拥有圆圆的头，长相奇怪。这个品 餐。Nunum有别于一般的泰国餐厅，它喜欢 8:30am 种的鲨鱼非常稀有，现今只找到五条。这 把各种味道搭配，创出不同的新口味。特色 For the most important meal of the 一条是它自己在珀斯的南部，靠近曼都 招牌菜有荔枝鸭，但在这家烛光摇曳、优雅 day stop in at Moore & Moore cafe. 拉（Mandurah）的地方搁浅而被找到的。 浪漫的餐厅里，西瓜软壳蟹是我们的最爱。 The coffee is hot, the breakfast menu is a mix of baked goods, pancakes 8pm and eggs in any way you can imagine A thriving nightlife makes the choice having them. Let the morning pass of venue for after-dinner drinks hard you by as you sit in the sun-drenched to narrow down, but if we had to pick a courtyard and, when you’re done, standout Mechanics Institute Bar it is. quickly pop into the adjoining art Once you locate the laneway entrance gallery for some souvenir shopping. around the corner on James Street, make your way through to discover 上午8时30分 Perth’s most humble bars with the best 俗语有云“一天之际在于晨”，我们来到了 drinks menu. As Adelaide is Australia’s Moore&Moore咖啡厅来享用三餐中最重要 wine state, Western Australia has 的早餐。热腾腾的咖啡、餐单上有着各式各 become the country’s go-to for a decent 样的烘焙食品、烙饼及以不同方式烹调的鸡 schooner of liquid gold. Beer lovers 蛋。在充满阳光的庭院中一边享用美味的早 will rejoice with craft beers from Two 餐一边享受明媚的早晨，用餐后还可以到毗 Birds Brewing on tap at Mechanics. 邻的艺术画廊购买纪念品。 You’ll want to make your way through every brew before the night’s end!

11:30am After spending the day before site 下午8时 hopping, today is more about enjoying 珀斯的夜生活璀璨多彩、选择丰富，要决定 the city at leisure. Cruise along the 到那一家酒吧来杯餐后酒也不是一件容易的 Swan River for a delicious buffet lunch 事。不过如果一定要选出一家鹤立鸡群的酒 of local seafoods aboard a luxury vessel.

48 HOURS 6pm In Spring black swans waddle about the grounds of Lake Monger – a meeting place for the local bird life. There’s plenty of grass for cricket, football and picnics, maybe even an afternoon siesta if you can find a shady spot under a tree.

下午6时 春季之时蒙格湖（Lake Monger）上到处可 见著名的黑天鹅。这里是各种本土鸟类齐聚一 堂的地方，还有许多广阔的草地来进行各种 活动包括板球、足球及野餐，在树荫下来个 午睡也非常舒适惬意。

7:30pm As far as bistros go, Little Creatures has it all: harbour view, fantastic brews

(made on the premises) and good food.

In a cavernous converted boatshed overlooking the harbour, it can get chaotic at times, but a signature Pale Ale with a wood-fired pizza will be worth the wait. More substantial shared plates include chickpea tagine and pork belly with fennel.

下午7时30分 小天使啤酒厂（Little Creatures）不仅拥有 美味的啤酒（自家酒厂酿制），还坐拥海港 美景以及滋味的美食。餐厅位于由洞穴改装 而成的艇棚内，能俯瞰美丽的海港。这里非 常受食客欢迎，经常高朋满座，但当想到有 名的Pale Ale淡啤酒以及炭火披萨，等待绝 对是值得的。分量较大的共享菜色包括鹰嘴 豆塔吉锅及茴香五花肉。u

Eat & sleep EAT 美食 Vans Cafe 1 Napoleon Street, Cottesloe vanscafe.com.au Greenhouse 100 St Georges Terrace, Perth greenhouseperth.com Nunam Thai 223 Bulwer Street, Northbridge nunam.net Mechanics Institute Bar 222 William Street, Northbridge mechanicsinstitutebar.com.au Moore & Moore Cafe 46 Henry Street, Fremantle mooreandmoorecafe.com Little Creatures 40 Mews Road, Fremantle littlecreatures.com.au

SLEEP 住宿 Crown Metropol Perth From $398 per night crownperth.com.au Duxton Hotel From $290 per night CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ART GALLERY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA, THE BELL TOWER, BIKE AT LITTLE CREATURES, DINING AT MOORE & MOORE

perth.duxtonhotels.com Hyatt Regency Perth From $216 per night perth.regency.hyatt.com

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VIEWPOINT 50

黄金州——西澳 潘华 胡玫 最不幸的可怜人”。1826年英国人在这里 仅仅修建了一处小的军事基地，对这块土地 并没有太大的兴趣。1829年，第一批拓荒 者沿天鹅河北上，到达福利亚托，随后在距 河口十二海里的地方建立了 一个小镇，这就是现在的西 澳省珀斯的前身。 十八世纪末的淘金热和 采矿风的兴起，才使得这片 寂静又荒芜的土地获得了生 机。直到1960年，由于大 量的铁矿、镍矿、钻石、石 油和其它矿产得以开采，才真正给澳洲西 海岸带来了繁荣和发展。赫蓝港的修建保 证了铁矿的大量输出，奥得河的水利工程 计划使以前寸草不长的西澳北部变成富庶的 农田。短短几年，西澳成为世界上矿沙、铅 土、矿、镍矿以及铀矿的主要产地和供应

“澳洲西部从遥远、荒凉和 神秘莫测，成为当今澳洲 最富有的州” 漫漫沙漠，各种艳丽缤纷的色彩都以最洁 净最纯朴的自然原生态强烈地冲击着人们的 眼球，震撼着各国旅客的心灵。（本文部 分内容取自于由胡玫、方腾在澳大利亚SBS 国家民族广播电台编播制作的系列节目《 南方大陆—澳大利亚》） ◆

Illustration: Anne Smith

西

澳洲位于澳大利亚的西海岸， 面积252万平方公里，占全 澳总面积的三分之一，是当 今澳联邦各州中面积最大的 州。1616年，荷兰探险家兼商人德克·哈托 格乘船來到澳大利亞西海岸中部的沙克湾， 幷把这里称为新荷兰。1699年和1826年，英 国人曾两次到过这里。1829年，英国航海家 弗里曼特尔再次在西海岸登陆，根据英王旨 意，宣布这块不属于新南威尔士殖民区管辖 的澳大利亚西部大片土地归不列颠帝国所有， 并将新荷兰着一名称改为西澳大利亚。 “西部”，在人们的脑海里常常意味着遥 远、荒凉和神秘莫测。从美国西部电影中一 望无际的荒原到中国西北流行歌曲里粗犷、 质朴的韵律，都会有身处异境的感觉。澳 洲西部也一样，英国海盗丹皮尔看到西澳那 一片荒凉后叹道：这里的土著人“是全世界

地，金矿生产量则跃居世界第一，西澳突 然间变成了澳洲的黄金宝地。如今的珀斯已 经是魅力十足的美丽城市，郊外大自然景色 甚至比黄金海岸还要艳丽，特别是傍晚，印 度洋上夕阳落下的情景使人心生激动，珀 斯已经成为印度洋畔的明珠之城。 从风水学的角度来看，澳洲东部似一条 青龙。由北部的昆士兰向南，经过新南威 尔士延伸到维多利亚州，侧卧在大分水岭山 脉，墨尔本恰处于龙头的位置；而西澳珀 斯四周无山，其海底山脉犹如白虎，探头 出海、窥视四周。这是龙虎相争，双雄争霸 的局面，致使澳洲大陆处于极不稳定的境 地。1933年曾有西澳全民公投，并以极高 的支持率通过西澳独立的决议，差一点造 成澳洲的分裂，这恐怕就是龙虎争斗的结 果。据说幸好有澳洲中部那块神秘的爱丽丝 大岩石，起到了龙虎戏珠的平衡作用，有力 地保护了整个澳洲的完整。 有意思的是，西澳虽然没有被分离，但 在珀斯以北约595公里处的NORTHAMPTON，有一个叫凯斯利的农场主，1970年 4月21日宣布他所管辖的农场领土正式从澳 大利亚联邦共和国分离，成为一个独立国 家——赫特河公国。尽管世界上没有任何国 家与其有正式外交关系，但赫特河公国仍 在75平方公里的领土内持续行驶他的主权， 加上海外申请的侨民，目前公国的公民人数 有1万3千人左右，并发行护照，办理签证、 身份证、驾照等证件，赫特河公国发行的K 护照在许多国家已经被作为出入境的有效证 件合法使用。 赫特河公国的出现，不管是否是应验了 龙虎斗的风水说，但是那个地方却成了到 西澳旅游的重要景点之一。听说，只要到了 那里以后办一个“落地签证”就可以入境 了，而且是又已经80多岁的国王亲自在您的 护照上盖章。 由于西澳地大物博、矿产丰富，近年来 更借助于与中国地贸易来往，西澳的发展和 繁荣获得了强大推动力，经济获得飞速发 展，使之成为澳大利亚最富有的州。 西澳向世人所展示的美：雪白的海滩、 湛蓝的大海、赭红的岩石、橙黄或白亮的

Building to the Chinese architecture has made a huge impact internationally in the last 10 years – but modern designs have been around in China for longer than you might think...

Words Adrian Mourby

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n the 1930s Sun Yat Sen’s son Sun Ke returned from studying city planning in the USA to work on the development of Guangzhou as a garden city. Around roughly the same time, in Shanghai, China’s first skyscraper – the Joint Savings Society Building – was being built to a design by the Slovak architect Laszlo Hudec. It’s now the Park Hotel.

Architectural styles in China back then were very much Art Deco, reflecting the influence of the École des BeauxArts in Paris and even New York. And, fortunately, a good amount of this style survived – in fact, Sassoon House (now known as the Peace Hotel) in Shanghai has recently been restored as one of the finest Art Deco buildings in Asia.

But after the victory of Mao Zedong in 1949, the whole nature of architecture in China changed. There was a big debate in the early days of Communism as to whether modern Chinese architecture should continue to explore this Western influence – and maybe even build a new capital outside Beijing – or follow the USSR and design in a more ideological style. In the end, Léon Hoa, a Beijingborn architect who had worked in France, convinced the authorities to look more to the Soviet Union for inspiration.

Under Hoa’s influence, Beijing built signature buildings like the Museum of the Chinese Revolution (1959) and the Great Hall of the People (1959). Both were constructed immediately outside the Forbidden City in a style that would not have been out of place in Kruschev’s Moscow.

It wasn’t until the 1990s that a new era of modern architecture, less ideologically driven and reflecting a greater sense of individuality, emerged. The New China look was fuelled in part by the ideas of young architects who had studied abroad following the relaxation of foreign travel rules in 1979, but also by meeting the wishes of the large companies who were now running China’s ‘state capitalism’. These institutions wanted statement buildings and could afford to bring in big-name architects from Europe and North America (such as Rem Koolhaas, Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid). Many of these Western auteurs built their grandest projects of the 21st century in China. At the same time, rising young architects like

Yung Ho Chang (who established China’s first private architecture firm in Beijing) and Ma Qingyun, both of whom had taught architecture in America, returned to China to become involved in the search for a more Chinese form of internationalism.

“Currently, a good number of people look at contemporary Chinese architecture in terms of oppositions between East and West,” says Chang, whose company name Atelier Feichang Jianzhu translates as ‘amazing’ or ‘extreme architecture’. “I think the real issue involves

ARCHITECTURE

future

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WHAT IS IT? National Centre for the Performing Arts, 2007

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WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? It’s across the road from the Forbidden City and next to the Great Hall of the People.

WHERE IS IT? Beijing WHO DESIGNED IT? Paul Andreu, a French architect best known for his airports and the Grande Arche de La Défense in Paris. Since 2011 he has been emeritus professor of architecture at Zhejiang University in Hangzhou.

VERDICT...

Known as ‘The Egg’, the centre sits in the middle of an artificial lake and houses three performing spaces. Access via hidden tunnels under the water gives the impression that the egg is floating.

The interplay of steel and glass cleverly replicates yin and yang.

ARCHITECTURE 54 questions of how one perceives Western influence on contemporary Chinese architecture, and does the import of architectural ideas and structures always equal invasion?”

Chang notes that Chinese culture has always assimilated more than a few ideas from the outside world. “Foreign culture is like a mirror,” he says, “which makes you realise that you are or should be different from the other. And then you begin to ask: ‘What is Chinese? What is not?’”

Chang is optimistic about modern architecture in China.

“You’d be surprised, but it’s actually easier to build here than in America. There’s more to be built, for sure. But funnily enough, people are more open-minded. They’re thinking about these things for the first time.”

Modern China now has some great statement buildings.

Visitors can’t help but be overwhelmed by the size and ambition of Norman Foster’s Beijing Airport. Zaha Hadid’s fluid Guangzhou Opera House really helped put that city on the international map. Meanwhile since the 2008 Olympics, Beijing has become as known for its iconic ‘Bird’s Nest’ National Stadium (by Herzog & de Meuron) as it is for The Forbidden City.

Along the way there have been some, well, interesting efforts, such as Fangyuan Mansion (2001) – a 25-storey high-rise building in Shenyang that was inspired by the shape of the ancient Chinese copper coin from whose centre a square has been cut. The naked money-making symbolism was too much for many critics. And in Hebei, the Emperor Hotel (2001) was built in the shape of three 42-metre-high deities who are believed to bring good fortune, prosperity and longevity. It often features on lists of the world’s more curious buildings.

As Chang points out, the Chinese are very open-minded about what constitutes modern architecture. This has led to the country becoming home to some of the most spectacular buildings on the planet. We’ve outlined 10 of our favourites...

ARCHITECTURE Photographs by View Pictures/UIG via Getty Images

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WHAT IS IT? Guangzhou Opera House, 2010 WHERE IS IT? Guangzhou

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? Zhujiang River is just to the south of the opera complex and Guangdong Museum sits on its eastern edge.

WHO DESIGNED IT? Zaha Hadid, a British-based Iraqi architect who was the first woman to win the Pritzker Architecture Prize. She is now designing the three-towered Wangjing SOHO in Beijing and New Century City Art Centre in Chengdu.

VERDICT...

The impression of two giant pebbles lying along the Zhujiang river has been very popular locally. Internally, the two performance spaces and foyers employ very few angles. A rounded organic quality is characteristic of the architect.

ARCHITECTURE

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WHAT IS IT? CCTV Headquarters, 2012

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WHAT IS IT? Quingpu Pedestrian Bridge, 2008 WHERE IS IT? Shanghai WHO DESIGNED IT? CA-Group, an international team based in Shanghai that also designed bridges at Xidayinggang and Yuanxiang Park, as well as the Xintiandi temporary auditorium and the Spanish Pavillion for Shanghai’s Expo 2010.

Photograph by CA-Design

WHERE IS IT? Beijing

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? Quingpu lies on the western edge of Shanghai, 18km east of the popular yachting venue of Dianshan Lake.

VERDICT...

Taking its inspiration from the old bridges of water town Zhujiajiao, CA-Group linked the banks of a 50-metre wide river with a roofed pathway that bends twice. In that sense, it’s a modern structure that attractively references traditional Chinese architecture.

WHO DESIGNED IT ?

Rem Koolhaas, a Dutch architect and theorist listed as one of the 100 Most Influential People in the World in 2008 by Time Magazine.

His multi-surfaced Seattle Central Library (2004) was well-loved by fellow architects.

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? Temple of Sun Park is 2km to the east of the Tower. The World Trade Commercial Building is nearby, as are many hotels.

VERDICT...

Standing at 234 metres, this is not so much a tower as a dramatic, multi-surfaced irregular loop.

In 2013 it won Best Tall Building Worldwide from the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat.

WHERE IS IT? Shanghai WHO DESIGNED IT? He Jingtang, professor of architecture at South China University of Technology. He contributed two venues for 2008 Beijing Olympics and is now designing a new campus of the University of Macau.

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? World Expo Park, left over from the 2010 Shanghai Expo, and the scenic banks of the Huangpu River.

VERDICT...

A very powerful piece inspired by the Chinese corbel known as ‘dougong’. Designed as the Chinese Pavilion, it was such a success at Expo 2010 that it was nicknamed the ‘Crown of the East’. Today it is celebrated as the largest art gallery in Asia.

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WHAT IS IT? Guangzhou Circle Mansion, 2013

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WHERE IS IT? Guangzhou

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? It’s walking distance to the People’s Park (South Gate) and Liuha Lake, and a longer stroll to Guangzhou’s iconic Pearl River.

WHO DESIGNED IT? The building has been designed by Italian architect Joseph di Pasquale and his professional practice AM project from Milan. It uses a closed and central structure instead of the usual western skyscrapers stereotype.

VERDICT...

The inner hole is a unique space that has no equal in the world with its almost 50 metres of diameter. The concept was to design a landmark building that will be immediately perceived as native Chinese – and it has succeeded.

ARCHITECTURE

WHAT IS IT? China Art Museum, 2010

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ARCHITECTURE

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WHAT IS IT? Gate to the East, 2014 WHERE IS IT? Suzhou, Jiangsu Province

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? Junji Lake lies to the east with its Regalia Resort & Spa. The UNESCO World Heritage Listed Classical Gardens of Suzhou are 7km to the west.

WHO DESIGNED IT? RMJM, an international practice founded in Edinburgh, which has built a lot of new university buildings in the UK and now has offices in cities all over the world, including in Shanghai.

VERDICT...

Despite its monumental size – over 300 metres tall – and role in symbolising Suzhou as a gateway within China, many have likened the gate to a pair of trousers, hence its nickname: The Pants Building.

Photograph by Li Xiaodong / Aga Khan Award for Architecture

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W HAT IS IT? Guotai Art Centre, 2005 WHERE IS IT? Chongqing WHO DESIGNED IT? Cui Kai, visiting professor at Tianjin University and chief architect of China Architecture Design and Research Group. Much of Cui’s work is internationalist. His No.3 Villa of the Commune by the Great Wall was showcased at the 8th Venice Biennale.

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? Situated in the Central Business District, the arts centre is close to the Jialing River and surrounded by a skyline reminiscent of Manhattan.

8

VERDICT...

A dramatic re-use of the traditional Ti Cou wooden style but built from 600 red and black steel bars.

For Cui Kai, an exploration and reinvention of the Chinese idiom.

WHAT IS IT? The Bridge School, 2008 WHERE IS IT? Xiashi Village, Fujian Province WHO DESIGNED IT? Li Xiaodong. Unlike some Chinese architects, Li’s young team specialises in small transformative projects that relate closely to the local environment.

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? This is a very rural area to come to international attention. Xiashi is in Pinghe country and is famous for its pomelos. The nearest big city is silk-trading Zhangzhou.

VERDICT...

Minimalist and brilliant, a completely different kind of project that won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture. Siting the school in the form of a bridge between two halves of a rural community is innovative.

ARCHITECTURE

9

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ARCHITECTURE 60

WHAT IS IT? Phoenix Island Apartment Blocks, 2014

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WHERE IS IT? An artificial archipelago in Sanya Bay, Hainan WHO DESIGNED IT? MAD Studio, an architectural team based in Beijing and Los Angeles.

MAD has undertaken residential projects in Beihai, Chongqing and Canada, as well as Chinese city museums in Ordos and Harbin.

WHAT ELSE IS NEAR? At the moment China’s ‘Oriental Dubai’ is nearing completion.

When the island is finished, Phoenix Apartments will be surrounded by restaurants, a marina, a conference centre and a 200-metre seven-star hotel.

VERDICT...

These five 28-storey apartment blocks represent a Chinese business boom. They are simply massive and uncompromisingly international.

舌尖上的塔州

TA S M A N I A

A taste of Tassie 一直以来享有“澳大利亚最美丽的岛州”美誉的塔斯马尼亚，现在更 成为了一个无与伦比的美食天堂

As well as being one of Australia’s most breathtakingly beautiful states, Tasmania is now firmly established as a gourmand’s paradise Words Alicia Miller Photography Ewen Bell

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TA S M A N I A 63

Clockwise from top left SWEET SECTION AT PIGEON HOLE CAFE; SMALL-FRY HOBART; CHECKING THE BARRELS AT REDL ANDS ESTATE; CONTEMPORARY CUISINE AT BRUNY ISL AND PREMIUM WINES

TA S M A N I A

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n his garden, former Tetsuya chef and food writer Rodney Dunn is performing a daily ritual. He walks his flourishing five acres – which he has sown, harvested and cooked from over the past seven years – picking as he goes. A pause for a lemon thyme shoot here, a Padron pepper there, and along he continues, all the while gushing about his autumnal bounty.

Some of it will feed his family; most of it will be used in his on-site cookery school, The Agrarian Kitchen. “Over here are the grapes, just there the melons, and as you can see, of course, the walnuts are here,” says Dunn. A man living his dream, he eagerly shows us the pigs for the charcuterie, the goats for the cheese, the chickens, the smoker, and his own home-brewed beer. None of this could have happened in Sydney, he says. But in this new place, his culinary aspirations have become reality.

Rodney’s home is Tasmania, and it’s a bit like a reallife Garden of Eden. The waters are so clear that the fat oysters growing within them are ready for eating straight from the seabed, no filtration required. Meaty abalone are found in abundance. Farmers’ harvests are impossibly diverse, featuring asparagus and quinoa, wasabi and barley. A kind of gastronomic wonderland, this island used to be one on the fringe, not known for much apart from a few breathtaking, rugged vistas and its ferocious little devils. Now, this island at the heel end of Australia is topping foodies’ bucket lists.

Tasmania has always had the potential, but the people

曾

经在知名日本餐厅 Tetsuya担任厨师的美食 作家Rodney Dunn，正 在自己的园子内进行日常的例行公 事。他穿梭于茂盛的五英亩园子之 间，这里是他过去七年以来不断 播种、收成以及选材的地方。他 一边走一边挑选食材，这边取些柠 檬百里香，那边摘点帕德龙小甜 椒，就这样在秋天的收成中不断 采摘他需要的食材。这些新鲜的 食材有的是给家里用的，但大部分 是用于他的烹饪学校The Agrarian Kitchen。他是一个正在活在自己 梦想里的男人，跟我们仔细介绍 他的作品“这边的是葡萄，那边 是瓜类，这里您所看到的就是核 桃。”还热情地为我们展示用作 熟食的猪、用来制作奶酪的山羊， 还有鸡群、鱼群和他自家酿制的 啤酒。他说这一切在悉尼是不可 能发生的，可是现在这个地方让 他实现烹饪、美食的愿望。 Rodney的家在塔斯马尼亚， 位于海中心的一座大岛屿，邻近一 座比它更大的岛屿。这里就像现 实版的伊甸园，海水是如此的清 澈，使肥美的牡蛎从海床拿出来 后不需要经过过滤便能直接享用。 肉质同样鲜美的鲍鱼星罗棋布， 农民的收成非常多样，大部分是芦 笋、藜麦、芥末及大麦，丰富得让 人难以置信。这里简直是一个美食 乐园，不过从前因为其处于边缘的

位置，除了一些壮丽的景观之外， 其他的一切并不太为人所知。如 今呢？这个位处澳大利亚跟部端的 岛屿在美食家的必到列单上名列 前茅。 塔斯马尼亚一直以来都是一 个具有潜力的岛州，大量的厨 师、工匠和充满激情的美食家涌 入，就像Rodney一样，从澳大 利亚的内陆地区攀山涉水来到了 这个地方。吸引人们到来的还有 位于州首府荷伯特（Hobart）赫 赫有名的古今艺术博物馆（The Museum of Old and New Art， 简称MONA）。MONA是由出 生在塔斯马尼亚，一位出色的职 业赌徒兼亿万富翁David Walsh 创建的私人博物馆，以“性和死 亡”为主题，旨在激发人们的反 应与情感。所以在博物馆里您可 能会看到一个活生生的胃部仿制 品，正在消化食物；或是在黑暗的 房间里摆放着阴森恐怖的埃及棺 木。2014年Walsh在这里举办婚礼 的时候，场内的其中一个焦点是 一张定制的桌子，其外形仿如阴 茎，而主甜点是阴道的形状。在 MONA，David还确保他的葡萄 园出产优质的葡萄酒；他的啤酒厂 也酿造出塔斯马尼亚最受欢迎的啤 酒——Moobrew；每逢周六还有 集市，也会定期举办美食节。在 MONA里有一家The Source餐厅， 制造出各种各样浮夸现代的菜色，

Evolving menus (LEFT) HOMEMADE CHUTNEY AND JAMS AT AGRARIAN KITCHEN; (RIGHT) THE EVOLVING MENU AT ETHOS EAT DRINK

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“浅酌一杯雷司令，来 一顿采用当地新鲜食材 烹调而成的盛宴”

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making the most of it are a relatively new feature. An influx 因为那些远道而来一睹MONA of chefs, artisan producers and passionate gastronomes 风采的游客也渴望品尝到美味的 – people like Rodney – has come from mainland Australia 佳肴。 and beyond. It’s largely thanks to the Museum of Old 不过，在城中也会遇到竞 and New Art (MONA), which sits like a Bond villain’s lair 争对手。位于荷伯特市中心的 on a jut of land just outside state capital Hobart. MONA Garagistes餐厅深受大众的拥戴。 wouldn’t be out of place in New York or London – it’s 店主兼主厨Luke Burgess成为塔斯 just not the kind of thing they build in backwaters. But 马尼亚饮食界的名流巨子，几年 eccentric Tasmania-born billionaire David Walsh, who made 前从墨尔本移居塔斯马尼亚并开了 his fortune counting cards, wanted his MONA at home. 自己的餐厅，自此以后屡获殊荣。 The museum is designed to evoke reaction and emotion. 他的餐厅大受欢迎，因此他在同一 You might come across a replica of a real working stomach, 条街上多开一家酒吧Sidecar以应 digesting food, or an eerie Egyptian coffin resting in a 付庞大的需求量。酒吧里有酒类 darkened room. But for more conservative appetites, MONA 及炭烧章鱼等小吃供应。回到带 still delights. And for the hungry, David has ensured the 有些许纳维亚感觉的Garagistes vineyards – which have long encircled the site – are producing 餐厅，Luke靠在酒吧台前说道， fine wines; a brewery is turning out one of Tasmania’s most “我喜欢实验，尝试不同菜色，但 popular beers, Moobrew; and regular food festivals and 仍然保持简单性——高质素、能 Saturday markets flood the outdoor spaces with edible delights. 突出本地农产品的特色。”我们 Meanwhile, a flagship on-site restaurant, The Source, does 品尝的五道菜套餐果然如他所说， all sorts of flashy, modern things with its plates, worthy 充满塔斯马尼亚的风味。其中包 of a world-class gallery – because those well-heeled, well括来自Rodney Dunn的菜蔬，他 travelled visitors that come to MONA also want good food. 跟Luke是认识多年的朋友；红艳 多汁的西红柿配搭带有烟熏味的 A CAPITAL TIME 土耳其冰淇淋；还有味道恰到好处 There’s competition in downtown Hobart in the form 的醋腌海带。只需一口就足以让 of Garagistes, which has earned a loyal following. 我们仿如置身墨尔本及悉尼最顶 Chef-patron Luke Burgess, who has become a poster boy 级的餐厅。 for Tasmanian cooking, migrated down from Melbourne Luke以选用塔斯马尼亚本土

食材为傲，可是没有人能比lain Todd及他在荷巴特的Ethos餐厅 更“本土”。餐厅的前身是一家药 房，位处一座以砖头建成，被世 界遗忘了一个世纪之久的建筑内， 后来因为当地的一个建筑项目才 被重新发现，成为这地区罕见的 历史文物。餐厅虽然位于历史建 筑内，可是却烹调出现代美食。店 主lain从70个不同的供应商采购食 材，这里买点羊肉，那里来点鱼， 不过他只跟熟悉及被他信任的人合 作。小量采购令菜单不仅是每天变 动，甚至是每餐都不一样。我们 吃到的是烟熏牛尾伴腌洋葱和香 脆土豆。用餐后必定要到上层的 鸡尾酒酒吧来一杯特选的塔斯马 尼亚苦味酒如椒莓或车野草味。 本地优质的酒在这里一直当道， 不管是采用塔斯马尼亚大麦及酒 花酿制的精酿啤酒还是近几年兴 起的国际级威士忌，也在澳大利 亚大陆及以外的地区驰声走誉。不 过取得最大成就的是葡萄酒，塔 斯马尼亚出产气泡酒、白葡萄酒 及芳香的凉爽气候红葡萄酒均丝毫 不费吹灰之力，并且是在其他澳大 利亚海岸地区未曾见过的。知名 品牌开始进驻该区，夺取土地，不

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to open his restaurant a few years back, and he’s been winning accolades ever since. It’s so popular, in fact, that he had to create an overflow ‘holding pen’: the wine bar Small-Fry Hobart, just down the road, where we satiate hunger pains with chargrilled octopus and natural tipples by the glass. Back at Garagistes, which has a minimal, Scandinavian feel, Luke leans an arm against the bar.

“I like to experiment, but still keep things simple – goodquality, local produce needs to sing,” he tells us. True to his word, the five courses we coast through later are rich with punchy Tasmanian flavours – including vegetables from Rodney Dunn, a long-time friend of Luke. Sunbright, juicy heirloom tomato, paired with a smoky salep dondurma (Turkish ice cream) and vinegary pickled kombu is sophisticated, but relaxed rather than fussy. One bite transports us to the finest eateries of Melbourne or Sydney.

While Luke prides himself on Tasmanian sourcing, no one’s more local than Iain Todd at his Hobart restaurant, Ethos. Located in a former pharmacy, bricked up and forgotten about for a century until a local building project unveiled it, the venue is a rare slice of history in this part of the world. The food, however, is very much of the moment.

Iain buys from around 70 different suppliers – a bit of lamb from here, a bit of bay trumpeter from there – but he only works with people he knows and trusts. Small quantities mean the menu changes not only daily, but even from diner to diner; though we’ve hit on a lucky draw, working our way through rich, smoky oxtrail offset with the zing of

Where to eat Garagistes 来到荷伯特怎能不来这里就 餐，Luke Burgess的餐厅经 常被评为州内最优秀之一。 要想品尝他家每天不一样 的五道菜套餐，必须提早预 约。可是如果您没有时间预 约，那可以到位于路口拐角 处餐厅旗下的酒吧，那里并 不接受预约。

You can’t come to Hobart and not eat here – Luke Burgess’s restaurant is frequently named as one of the best in the state, and for good reason.

You’ll need to book well in advance for the pleasure of experiencing his five-course, daily changing tasting menu, but if you’re short on time there’s always the sister winebar, Sidecar, around the corner, which doesn’t take reservations. garagistes.com.au

餐厅

Ethos Eat Drink

Frogmore Creek

厨师lain Todd是一位“采 用本地食材先生”，他的品 尝菜单（唯一的选择）每天 根据从约70个小供应商所取 得的食材而作出改动。他以 优质的食材以及精湛的技巧 创出各种的美食。我们尝试 了喇叭手鱼配小蘿蔔及鲜奶 油，还有猪肉配苹果、生菜 和榲桲。

Frogmore Creek餐厅由 荷兰厨师掌勺，只在周一至 周四的午餐时段开放，烹调 出一些岛上最佳的菜色， 餐厅还坐拥迷人的景色。 不妨尝试一下烤羊脊肉配 慢炖羊肩、红薯泥、炖白菜

Chef Iain Todd is all about sourcing locally, and his excellent tasting menu – the only option available to diners – changes daily to reflect what he has received from his army of 70-or-so small suppliers. He creates dishes with respect for ingredients and finesse; on our visit, we tried bay trumpeter with cured radish and crème fraiche, and pork with apple, lettuce and quince. ethoseatdrink.com

及培根。

With a Dutch chef at the helm, Frogmore’s restaurant – which is only open for lunch Thursday to Monday – manages to produce some of the best meals on the island, alongside one of the finest views too.

Lamb or suckling pig often comes from staff working on the vineyard; try roasted lamb loin with slowbraised shoulder, sweet potato puree, braised cabbage and bacon. frogmorecreek. com.au

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“ I L I K E T O E X P E R I M E N T, BUT KEEP THINGS SIMPLE – G O O D - Q U A L I T Y, L O C A L PRODUCE NEEDS TO SING”

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Clockwise from top left DUCKS AT REDL ANDS ESTATE WAITING FOR A FEED OF MASH; GARDEN TO GARNISH AT AGRARIAN KITCHEN. (OPPOSITE) MORNING SESSION AT PIGEON HOLE CAFE

Fresh produce (TOP LEFT) JAMS AT SAL AMANCA MARKET; (CENTRE) SPARKLING WINES AT FROGMORE CREEK; (BOTTOM LEFT) VENISON AND CRACKLING AT AGRARIAN KITCHEN

DRINK TO THAT Quality local drinking has become a persistent theme here as of late. Both craft beers – made with Tasmanian barley and hops – and world-class whiskies have been stealing the scene over the last few years, building a reputation in mainland Australia and beyond. But the biggest success story has been wine. Tasmania effortlessly produces sparklings, lean whites, and perfumed cool-climate reds not seen elsewhere on Australian shores. Big brands are moving in, snatching up land, but it’s the boutique producers setting the benchmark. The elegant pinot noirs of little Dalrymple, for example, show what muscle the region has to flex. Wine tourism is booming too – at winery Frogmore Creek, just north of Hobart, you not only tip back award-winning pinots, but also take in some of the island’s finest cooking – including steak tartare with Tassie truffle mayo or braised lamb shank so tender it practically slips off the fork, all the while soaking up a view over vineyard-carpeted hills rolling to a serene lake.

We want to see where it all ends – or begins, depending on your point of view – and so with days almost out we’re off to visit Tasmania’s (and Australia’s!) most southerly vineyard.

Warm welcome MADDY GREETS VISITORS AT THE BRUNY ISL AND SMOKEHOUSE

过真正把基准定下来的却是小型 在布鲁尼岛优质葡萄酒厂 的本地生产商所出产的产品，比 （Bruny Island Premium Wines） 如产自Dalrymple酒庄的黑皮诺。 浅酌一杯雷司令，来一顿采用当 葡萄酒旅游业也正在迅速发展， 地 新 鲜 食 材 制 成 的 盛 宴 。 包 括 到访位于荷巴特北面的弗洛格莫 沙袋鼠肉和负鼠肉而成的辣香 溪葡萄酒（Frogmore Creek）， 肠、多汁可口的牛肉汉堡、来自 除了来一杯屡获殊荣的黑皮诺， 布鲁尼岛奶酪工厂（Bruny Island 更要品尝岛上一些最精湛的厨艺， Cheese）的奶酪拼盘，工厂距离 包括鞑靼牛肉配塔斯马尼亚黑松 酒庄20分钟的路程，还有来自邮 露蛋黄酱或超级软嫩的烩羊腿，一 轮码头熏制食品坊的熏鳟鱼。Joe 边享用美食之际，一边欣赏葡萄 的咖啡厅Get Shucked颇有名气， 园山景及宁静的湖泊景观。 位于尼克沙道不远处，售卖最鲜 将近一天完结之时我们到访了 甜无比的牡蛎。整天下来，布鲁 位处塔斯马尼亚（甚至是澳大利 尼岛就像一场移动的盛宴，这些 亚）最南面的葡萄园。我们乘船 满有热情的厨师烹调出如此滋味 30分钟越洋来到了位于荷巴特东 的美食，如果来到却空腹而去实 边的美食天堂。布鲁尼岛（Bruny 在是十分可惜。 Island）一直以来都是受当地人青 登上回程的渡轮，挺着快撑破 睐的度假热点。他们在这里冲浪、 的肚皮，眼皮也渐觉沉重，睡意 观看白色小袋鼠以及游览库克船 浓浓。夕阳西下，随着渡轮的马 长（Captain Cruise）首次登录澳 达声，我们也慢慢远离布鲁尼岛， 大利亚的地方。还有一道沙丘尼克 往邻近比较大的岛屿前进——那 （Neck），把海洋跟河畔分隔，其 个位于海中心的美食天堂，在一座 境美不胜收，让人目瞪口呆。今 比它更大的岛屿旁边的那座岛屿。 天虽然是旅游淡季，可是游轮也 我们在昏昏欲睡的状态下穿过清 坐满了游客，布鲁尼岛不再是一个 澈的海水，在宁静安详的氛围下， 隐世桃源。 梦里的思绪也是牵绕着晚餐。 ◆

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pickled brown onions and the crunch of Bismark potatoes.

Eventually, it’s essential to drift upstairs, where a cocktail bar continues the theme with sippers featuring unique Tassie bitters such as pepperberry or sweet woodruff.

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Taste test FRESH BRUNY ISL AND OYSTERS AT GET SHUCKED; SINGLE MALT WHISKEY TASTINGS AT L ARK DISTILLERY

We hop on the ferry for the 30-minute ride over vibrant blue waters to a little hippy enclave-turned-foodie paradise east of Hobart. Bruny Island has always been the holiday spot for locals; they’ve forever been surfing these shores, spotting white wallabies and strolling past the very spot where Captain Cook first landed in Australia. There’s a neck of sand – where a half-moon of sea meets a half-moon of lake and penguins reside – that will impress anyone. Even in a quiet season, the ferry is full. Bruny’s no secret anymore.

Over a glass of zippy riesling at Bruny Island Premium Wines, we enjoy an exercise in hyper-localism. We munch on spicy wallaby and possum sausage, made just down the road; juicy beef burgers from cows just across it; a cheese platter from Bruny Island Cheese, 20 minutes along; and smoked trout, from the smoker by the ferry port. We hear about Joe, not far from that sandy neck, who sells the best, sweetest oysters at his café Get Shucked – the people on Bruny wouldn’t dream of eating bivalves from as “far away” as the island across the way. Hopping back in the car, we decide the day must be devoted to treating Bruny as a moveable feast, one great picnic, because with all these passionate people making all these delicious things, it would be a shame to go hungry.

On the ferry ride back, near bursting after a long day feeding, our eyelids grow heavy. The ferry motors along, cloaked in sunset, from little Bruny to its larger neighbour – that culinary paradise in the sea. We cross the crystalline waters snoozing, draped in silence and gold, and our dreams turn to dinner. ◆

Where to stay 伊斯灵顿酒店， 荷伯特 Islington, Hobart 这家历史悠久的酒店拥有11 间客房，设有丰富艺术藏品 及古色古香的布置，完美结 合传统与现代建筑，满足每 位旅客的品味。酒店提供免 费的迷你吧，房间内使用酒 店提供的苹果平板电脑也是 免收费的，服务生友善却有 点奇特古怪。

This 11-roomed Regency manor blends eclectic antique-strewn rooms in an original period house with more modern version in a well-done extension - so there’s something to suite all tastes.

Minibars are complimentary, as are iPads for in-room use; staff are friendly and a bit quirky. islingtonhotel.com

住宿

莫纳酒店，荷伯特

德文特木桥旅馆

Mona pavilions, Hobart

Woodbridge on the Derwent

呼应博物馆的摇滚主题，8 间高端奢华的客房拥有各种 高科技的设备，并且俯瞰德 文特河（River Derwent） 。所有的客房都有独特的设 计以及陈列着精选的私人 藏品，每一间都像个微型画 廊。酒店设有游泳池、桑拿 浴室和健身房，跟酒店其他 一切的设施结合起来，让您 永远也不需要离开酒店。

一座位于荷伯特西北处 仅需半小时车程的奢华 小型旅馆，俯瞰德文特河 （Derwent River）。德文 特木桥旅馆只有8间套房， 因此在这里度假私人空间 十足，非常的私密。这里的 体验既豪华又温馨，有熊熊 燃烧的柴火，也有高级的用 餐体验。

In keeping with the rock and roll theme of the museum, the eight Mona pavilions are top-end, high tech abodes overlooking the River Derwent.

Like miniature galleries of their own, each has a unique design and features original pieces.

There’s a pool, sauna and gym too – so when combined with the other facilities at Mona, you might just never have to leave. mona.net.au

A plush lodge overlooking the Derwent River half an hour northwest of Hobart, Woodbridge only fills up to eight of its suites and rooms at a time, so the vibe is always private and discreet. Traditional, almost colonial luxury rules here – think sumptuous yet homely fabrics; roaring fires; and silver service dining. woodbrigeinn. com.au

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XI’AN

Hidden treasures When you boast around 3,500 years of history, visitors have big expectations. But even before you get to those famed Terracotta Warriors, you’ll be amazed by the treasures of Xi’an Words Qin Xie Photography Trent van der Jagt

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Disarmingly beautiful THE ‘LITTLE WARRIORS’ (TOP) AT HAN YANG LING HAVE HAD THEIR SILK ARMS WORN AWAY OVER THE CENTURIES

alfway along a glass corridor in a darkened warehouse, we stop to peer through the viewing panes to our left.

Small bulbs of gentle strobe light throw soft focus on giant dusty burial pits, densely packed with hundreds of earthen figurines. Some are lined up neatly like elongated bowling pins, divided by the soil that buried them; others are scattered in a mock domino effect, falling against each other at odd angles. All measure just under a metre, and all look identical. At intervals, there are clay pigs, horses and even chickens.

This is Xi’an but we are not visiting the famous Terracotta Warriors. Instead, led by our fast-paced Wendy Wu tour guide, Ding, we have driven an hour north of the city to see Xi’an’s lesser known “little warriors” at Han Yang Ling, the tomb of Emperor Jin of the Western Han Dynasty and empress Wang Shi. Pointing to a few of the figurines closest to us, Ding asks, “Have you noticed that they have no arms or clothes?” This, it turns out, is because the arms are made of wood while their costumes are made of silk. In the two millennia since 141 BC, when Emperor Jin died, the wood and fabric disintegrated, leaving only the nude, mud-covered body with holes where their arms had once fitted. “And do you know there are three kinds of people here?” Ding

adds with a cheeky nod. “Male, female and... eunuchs. It’s a bit hard to see here, but come downstairs to see the others.”

We head past the rows of moulded faces and make our way to the exhibition downstairs, where the three styles of figurine are on show as well as clothed versions, with painted faces, to aid our imagination. But it’s harder to picture the number of workers required to fashion all of these burial items. There are 81 burial pits surrounding the main tombs, holding an estimated 100,000 figurines, the majority of which are still waiting to be

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“THE MAJORITY OF THE E S T I M AT E D 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 FIGURINES ARE STILL W A I T I N G T O B E E X C AVA T E D ”

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excavated. The entire burial site spans 20 square kilometres, making it the biggest museum in China in terms of land mass.

THE OLD CAPITAL The scale of Han Yang Ling is formidable enough but it’s just one of the many imperial necropolises on the outskirts of Xi’an. As everyone knows, no visit to Xi’an would be complete without a trip to see Emperor Qin’s

Terracotta Warriors. There, hundreds of life-sized painted statues complete with unique facial expressions, build, armour – even down to the tiny nuances of ethnicity and facial hair – stand guard at the emperor’s final resting place. But there’s also Qian Ling Mausoleum of Tang dynasty’s Emperor Gao Zong and Mao Ling Mausoleum of Han dynasty’s Emperor Wu that each promise to be nothing less than extraordinary.

Standing guard THE ENTRANCE TO THE TERRACOTTA WARRIORS (ABOVE) AND THE WARRIORS THEMSELVES (BELOW)

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Riding high CYCLING XI’AN’S CITY WALL IS POPULAR (TOP) — AS ARE THE RABBIT-SHAPED DUMPLINGS AT DE FA CHENG (ABOVE)

It’s no surprise really. Xi’an is one of the oldest cities in China with over 6,500 years’ history.

It was during the Zhou dynasty, in 1046 BC, that it first became the capital of Fengjing and Haojing, two cities divided by a river. The remnants of that time can still be found southwest of modern Xi’an in Fenghao. Since then, it has been a capital across 13 different dynasties including Qin, Han, Sui and Tang. Its name has also changed from Fenghao to Xi’anyang, Changan, Daxing, and finally Xi’an today.

Xi’an is also the start of the Silk Route, lending the city a surprising amount of Middle Eastern influence. As a result of this trade route, pomegranate trees can be found bearing fruit all over the city’s suburbs. With this in mind, we had to visit Xi’an’s vibrant Muslim quarter where the best freshly pressed pomegranate juice can be found. But first,

a spot of lunch at De Fa Chang, an age-old restaurant famed for its dumpling feast.

We sit at a table overlooking the bell and drum towers, two of Xi’an’s best-known landmarks.

“In the old days, they rang the bell in the morning to say the town is open for trade and sounded the drum in the evening to say the city is closed,” says Ding. Dumplings soon start arriving on trays and plates, still steaming with heat.

These aren’t your ordinary Chinese dumplings. Sitting on the mesh bottom of the steamer and the ceramic plates are bite-sized dim sum shaped into rabbits, chickens, money bags and more. Their skins are made of everything from buttery, flaky pastry to near-opaque film and multi-coloured dough. It’s a feast for the palate as the filling goes from a savoury wild mushroom duxelle to a faintly sweet red bean paste, and then to a carrot and beef meatball.

There are even baby pearl dumplings to be cooked in a dainty hotpot of lamb broth.

Stopping each time to take a snap, we’re told off by the waitress in the kindest way. “Eat them quick before they get cold,” she says.

“The skin will become tough.” It’s hard to stop; those bunny rabbits are just too adorable.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT After lunch, we walk west to the Muslim quarter. This part of town is home to many of Xi’an’s Hui ethnic people as well as the Great Mosque of Xi’an. A bustling tourist

Xi’an in numbers

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Dynasties during which Xi’an was the capital of China

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Rivers in the Xi’an region

10,108

Area of Xi’an in square kilometres

1974

Year the Terracotta Warriors were discovered

12

Districts in Xi’an

5

Different names held by the city before it finally became Xi’an

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Royal tombs around Xi’an

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Riding high THE XI’AN WALL STANDS OVER A GREEN BELT POPULAR WITH KITE FLYERS AND TAI CHI DOERS

spot, it’s the place to try ethnic snacks, halal dishes, sweet cakes and the seriously fruity pomegranate juice.

The curious idea of Biang Biang noodles, also known as ‘belt noodles’, stops us first. A portion of the noodle contains only one length of wide, pulled dough, spanning over a metre, and served with a clear beef consommé or chilli oil dressing, but always with a lashing of freshly chopped spring onions. We stop to watch the impressive skill of the noodle-maker, who stretches a handful of formless dough into a ‘belt’ in a matter of seconds with a few tugs and shakes.

Just as quickly, he drops it into a wok of bubbling water and starts on a second portion.

“Hey! You have to try the jia mo,” Ding calls out as he waves us over to an averagelooking stall. Then we notice the staggeringly long queue outside. At least two dozen people are waiting, peering past one another in eager anticipation. The fast hands of the stall holder make light work of making jia mo, Xi’an’s version of gyros. He’s stuffing hand-torn beef shreds into the hot pockets of toasted flatbreads before ladling on a luscious spicy sauce. The moist, slow-cooked filling

is reminiscent of a pulled pork French-dip sandwich but more lean and with a purity of chilli that’s distinctively Chinese.

As we spot the steamed rice cakes on the next stall, dessert appears on the menu. Made with glutinous rice and flour, the cakes are ever so slightly tacky. But after the stall holder slathers on a thick helping of rose petal jam and gives it a sprinkling of roasted sesame seeds, it becomes an irresistibly sticky treat.

Perfumed with rose and lightly sweet, it’s a real fusion of Middle Eastern flavours with classical Chinese confectionery.

MODERN XI’AN Xi’an isn’t without its modern face, but it’s an idea we only grasp when we ascend the 12m high city wall late in the afternoon. Beyond the old city enclosed by the walls, past a small moat and a green belt where people toy with kites, are Xi’an’s towering skyscrapers. Behind those are the still-sprouting high-rise flats. Or, as Ding puts it, “Xi’an’s Construction Museum, home of China’s new national bird – the yellow crane.”

We rent a couple of bikes to take advantage of the scenery and the light breeze. Pedalling

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Food for thought The best way to experience the

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authentic Xi’an food scene like a local is to let a local guide you.

Wendy Wu’s personal tour guides will help you explore the city’s finest food offerings. wendywutours.com.au

Restaurants De Fa Chang Head to De Fa Chang for the ultimate Xi’an dumpling feast. The old restaurant started operating in 1936, serving up Beijingstyle dumplings. Today, there are more than 100 flavours to choose from, each served in a different way, combining culinary influences from all over northern China.

28 Pingan Market, Bell Tower Square, Xi’an, China +86 29 87676615

Lou Lan Gu Li Go to Lou Lan Gu Li for halal dishes inspired by the Xinjiang region of China. The lamb kebabs are particularly good; order them with the famous pilaf rice, which you eat by hand. Be sure to wash it down with a soured yoghurt, as the region is also famous for its dairy products.

Liu Li Street, off Xi Da Street, Lian Hu District, Xian, China +86 29 87612878

Ma La You Huo Xi’an is relatively close to Sichuan so it’s no wonder there’s a large number of Sichuan restaurants in the city.

The popular Ma La You Huo is known for its use of Sichuan flavours in dishes such as aromatic spicy crayfish and spicy and numbing frogs.

7th floor, Kai Yuan Shopping Mall, Dong Da Street, Xin Cheng District, Xian, China +86 29 87373168

Grand stay The recently opened Sofitel Legend People’s Grand Xi’an is a hotel with a rich local history. Once a residential building for government officials, its 300 or so rooms have been transformed into just 71 luxury boltholes. Its piece de resistance is surely the ultra-luxe Louis XIII bar. For $388 per night,

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sofitel.com

80 along the uneven brick surface of Xi’an’s city wall, circumventing all the city traffic, we get a real feel of the size of the historic city enclosed.

It takes around two hours to do a full lap of the 13.74km enclosure, but at a leisurely pace, we only make it a quarter of the way in an hour.

The wall as it stands now was built in 1378, marking out the territory of the Ming dynasty Xi’an, making this the oldest part of the modern city. Despite centuries of use, it looks remarkably new. Although its bricks have been repaired over the years, around 80 per cent of it is original, making it one of the most complete and intact city walls in China.

Xi’an’s secret ingredient for everlasting walls, apparently, is a sealant of glutinous rice flour.

There are plenty of other design quirks to fathom too. The city wall has four main gates, facing north, east, south and west, each with its own token animal. The north gate has the tortoise, the east has the dragon, the south has the phoenix and the west has the tiger.

The outer and inner gatehouse of each entry point joins to form a square where, in the central courtyard, a tree grows. Symbolically, a square with wood in the middle makes the Chinese character for ‘trapped’. Incidentally, this was also where invaders were held captive during the city’s turbulent history until they met their inevitable death. Today, the city wall forms a different sort of defence – one that stops the invasion of superstructures tall enough to pierce the sky. At least, that seems true when we look down into old Xi’an and see the elegant, tiled roof tops.

For Ding, modernity has its own allure. “People go to some places for untouched civilisation.

They come here for real, human civilisation.”

If that’s true, then Xi’an does not disappoint. ◆

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SNOW IN CHINA

Winter

WONDERS A firm favourite to hold the Winter Olympics in 2022, China’s ski scene is rapidly becoming one of the coolest on the planet Words Sarah O’Meara

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T

o get some sense of how quickly the ski scene has developed in China, you need to cast your mind back 10 years. In those days, Europe, Japan and South Korea sent their second-hand rental gear to China to kit out the country’s first skiers as they ventured down the slopes.

The resorts had old-fashioned equipment, and the hotels were cheap and cheerful.

Now those Chinese professionals who took up skiing a decade ago are bringing their young families to the slopes for the first time. They wear cutting-edge gear, stay in luxury, five-star hotels, and head for the hot springs for their après-ski.

Swiss ski instructor Christoph Mueller, founder and director of hiddenchina.net, says China’s winter weather conditions are ideal for skiers. “The predictable cold temperatures are perfect. You never have to worry about whether you’ll be rained out during the season. And the season runs from middle of November to middle of February, without fail.”

Although Chinese ski resorts do not get much natural snow, the quality of the artificial snow is very good, he adds.

“Northern China is super dry during winter, which is perfect for man-made snow. The slopes are always nicely covered with grippy snow that is not too hard or icy,” says Mueller, whose company offer tailor-made travel experiences in China.

No matter where you live in China, there are now a crop of ski resorts within travelling distance – from the northerly province of Heilongjiang with its dramatic slopes and high mountains down to the more leisurely, rolling ski fields of Sichuan.

IN THE FAST LANE In 2000, there were 110 ski resorts in China. By winter 2013, that number had shot up to 260. And China continues to invest in more ski resorts than any other country in the world. This year the International Olympic Committee announced that Beijing would bid for the Winter Olympics 2022. If it’s proclaimed the winner in July 2015, it’s likely to send ski demand soaring even higher.

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SNOW IN CHINA

SNOW IN CHINA 84

On piste THERE ARE PLENTY OF RUNS — AND MOGULS — TO TEST ALL LEVELS OF SKIER

There are around four million regular skiers in China, with a third of these coming from the mountainous Beijing area. Fourteen ski resorts await just over an hour’s drive away. The most famous is Nanshan Ski Resort, home to China’s largest snowboarding park. Over the years, the resort has become globally recognised for its annual snowboarding competition with a $50,000 prize. For those more interested in aprés-ski, the name is synonymous with relaxation in the form of local hot springs.

If you’re the kind of skier who likes to get away from the crowds, Mueller suggests heading for the slightly less well-known but brilliantly run Yuyang and Jundushan resorts, which are also close to the capital. These ski resorts are both well managed, with high-quality facilities and great slopes for beginners – ideal for day trips from Beijing for a weekend’s worth of skiing.

“Yuyang has great runs for those who are just starting out and then some slightly more advance trails for intermediate skiers,” says Mueller. “Jundushan has the steepest and longest run in the whole of the Beijing area, which is ideal for advanced and expert skiers. But it doesn’t have the middle-ranking slopes. So the two together make for a great weekend.”

CHINESE ALPS For those looking for a more substantial ski break in northern China, you don’t have to travel far to find wintery fun. Ski lovers will already be very familiar with the

A skier’s heaven

SNOW IN CHINA

THE SECRET GARDEN AT HEBEI IS ONE OF THE RESORTS THAT FORMS THE ‘DAVOS OF CHINA’

85

‘Davos of China’. It’s a cluster of ski resorts located three to four hours drive from Beijing and some 60km west of Zhangjiakou, near the town of Chongli. Here, they hope to emulate Switzerland’s premier ski destination.

If China is successful in its bid to hold the Winter Olympics 2022, Chongli will be the hub for all ski and snowboard events. Thomas Tillotson, owner of China ski tours, is a firm fan of the ski fields known as the Chongli Cluster, which include the Wanlong, Duolemeidi and Genting Secret Garden resorts. The mountainous terrain resembles eastern American resorts such as Killington, where winding trails, woods and picturesque views give the slopes a fairytale quality. “Wanlong is still my favorite because it offers the most varied skiing on long trails. You can also interconnect with Secret Garden, which almost doubles the runs on offer,” Tillotson says.

For guests, the facilities are equally as impressive. The Malaysian-backed Genting Secret Garden ski resort, for example, has a stunning Alpine lodge, two state-of-the-art Doppelmayr chairlifts (complete with heated seats) and a cable car with eight-person gondolas. Many more five-star hotels are on the way, including the ChongLi Thaiwoo Four Seasons Resort, whose first phase is due to open this year; and Element Chongli, due to open August 2017. Tillotson adds that the region will move figuratively closer to the capital city once the high-speed train transit from Beijing to Inner Mongolia is completed. “You’ll be 45 minutes from downtown Zhangjiakou, which is just 30-45 minutes drive to Chongli.”

NORTHERN STARS Further north, skiers can benefit from some of China’s most spectacular snowy backdrops. The Beidahu Ski Resort in Jilin province is a four-hour or two-hour flight from Shanghai and Beijing respectively. You’ll arrive at the nearest airport, Changchun, which is a 90-minute drive from the resort.

Set in breathtaking mountainous terrain, and known for having the highest vertical drop of any resort in China, experienced skiers love Beidahu and its ‘steep and deep’ runs. But there are also newly added intermediate runs for those who aren’t quite ready for such sharp inclines.

And for those who like their creature comforts, in 2012, the resort’s first five-star hotel opened: the Qiaoshan Beidahu Hotel. The Changbaishan resort in Jilin is also growing in popularity due to its supreme beauty and luxurious accommodation.

“This is my second favorite place to ski in China,” says Tillotson. “It is the only commercial operation in China that enjoys deep natural snow and incredible mountain beauty.”

For a family with beginner to intermediate skiers

“WINDING TRAILS, WOODS AND PICTURESQUE VIEWS GIVE THE SLOPES A FA I RY TA L E Q U A L I T Y ”

SNOW IN CHINA 86

who want great amenities, the Changbaishan ski resort is winner. All hotels at Wanda Changbaishan offer skiin, ski-out facilities with access to 43 varied ski runs and 30km worth of trails. Recently opened hotel resorts include the Sheraton, Westin and Park Hyatt. It’s also the perfect destination to combine with a visit to Changbaishan mountain, which boasts China’s largest volcanic crater lake. One of northern China’s most famous scenic vistas, the peaks separate the People’s Republic of China from the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea.

If you head even further north, you’ll find the Yabuli Ski Resort in Heilongjiang province. Extremely popular among pro skiers, it hosted the 3rd Asian Winter Games back in 1996 – it was the largest ski resort in China at that time. And it is still the place where you might be lucky enough to see China’s ski team in action, as they head to their preferred slopes. (Sadly, they’re not open to the public when they’re in training.) These ski fields underwent a major development in 2009, with the addition of a new five-star Club Med resort hotel, brand-new gondola and ski trails. Skiers regularly come to enjoy both the slopes and the world-famous ice sculptures of Harbin, which are just a four-hour drive away.

Now is the perfect time to try out skiing in China.

Hot springs, luxury hotels and the chance to explore breathtaking countryside are just three reasons to become a bona fide snow bunny. And with the chance of a Winter Olympics around the corner, China looks set to become a world-beating ski destination for years to come. ◆

Take 7 resorts...

Yabuli Ski Resort This northerly resort in Heilongjiang province is one of China’s most famous resorts, with excellent skiing conditions from December through to February. yabuliski.com Nanshan Ski Resort in Beijing Just an easy 90-minute drive outside of Beijing, Nanshan is a terrific place to learn how to ski and snowboard, with good facilities and lots of learner slopes for the first-timers. nanshanski.com Chongli County Head to Wanlong, Duolemeidi or Genting Secret Garden ski resorts in Hebei province if you want to find out why they’re calling these fields the ‘Davos of China’. secretgardenresorts. com

Changbaishan Ski Resort With its own local airport, great hotels and gorgeous scenery, the idyllic Wanda Changbaishan Ski Resort in Jilin is fast growing in popularity.

Emei Mountain Ski Resort in Sichuan Small but perfectly formed, this wellequipped ski resort boasts an annual ice festival and natural springs Beidahu Ski Resort One of China’s most scenic and toughest skiing spots, this resort in Jilin province is popular with pros and beginners alike.

Shennongjia Ski Resort in Hubei A great choice for those living in south China who want to brush up on their skills before hitting the harder slopes further north.

B E C O M E A W O R L D - B E AT I N G S K I D E S T I N AT I O N F O R YEARS TO COME”

SNOW IN CHINA

“CHINA LOOKS SET TO

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Snow country TOP OF THE JADE DRAGON MOUNTAIN, NEAR LIJIANG IN SOUTH-WEST CHINA

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JACK OF ALL TRADES

CMC Markets trading client, Duncan Lin, may be young, but that hasn’t stopped him from succeeding

D

uncan Lin may not be a household name throughout Australia, but in the country’s financial product trading circles people would know who he is at the mention of his name. At only 31 years of age Duncan has managed to do what many have spent a lifetime trying to achieve: become a successful Foreign Currency (FX) and Contracts for Difference (CFD) trader and turn a five-figure account into a seven-figure one within a six-month period.

Starting out in an unconventional way, Duncan never studied finance at university.

Instead, he spent his four years as a student of telecommunications engineering. Although he knew he would never work as an engineer Duncan decided he wanted to explore his passion for mathematics and physics.

Duncan had his first taste of entrepreneurship in his first summer break at university. The baking beaches of Sydney were packed with people, but to get a drink you had to cross the hot sands to the shops. It was a painful process many avoided. Regulations do not allow stalls on Australian beaches.

However, Duncan came up with the idea to carry a backpack filled with litre bottles containing homemade lemonade. He would walk up and down the beach, going to several different beaches every day to increase sales. By the end of the summer he had a taste of the potential rewards of trading success – and sun-kissed skin to match.

Being the type of person who likes to go against the mainstream, he became a regular CFD trader in CMC markets platforms in his last year of university. One of the features of the CMC Markets platform that fascinated Duncan in particular was the Client Sentiment feature, the first in the market. “I am a contrarian trader that goes against trends,”

says Duncan. “The Client Sentiment Tool lets me see clearly the choices most people are making in the market, which gives me the advantage of having a more intuitive awareness of the market’s sentiments.”

While it may seem like success has followed Duncan, he has had falls. “A good trader must have a bad memory,” he says. Learning from his mistakes, he chooses not to dwell on them. “I have a selective memory. If you remember successful or failed trading incidents, they will affect your decisions down the road. It may deter you from placing an order out of fear, or it makes you feel so good that you underestimate the risks.”

Duncan pins all his successful trades as the combination of science and art. As a golf player, Duncan knows the feeling of an effortless swing that only comes after endless practices. Similar to golf, there is also that moment of instinct in trading. “With the right time and market, trades will happen,” believes Duncan. “You need to develop that instinct from analysis and practices, but also with the help of an advanced and sophisticated trading platform, such as CMC markets’ Next Generation trading platform.”

No matter whether it’s golf, trading, or any other aspect of life, Duncan values the “effortless moment” that comes after hard work – and he doesn’t plan on changing that any time soon.

几岁。但当你开始和他谈话时，他就会越来 越“语出惊人”。他太知道自己想要什么了， 他清晰明确的思路就像一把利刃，不拖泥带 水，不模棱两可。 对于很多年轻人来说，可能从进入大学的第 一天起就会隐隐担心毕业之后能不能找到工作， 但Duncan的担心却恰恰相反。大学的第一 天，Duncan对自己说：“最坏的人生结果就 是找到一份工作”。 大学的第一个暑假，Duncan就尝到了创业 的滋味。由于澳大利亚政府不允许在海滩上摆 摊，要在人潮涌动又酷热的悉尼海滩上想要得 到一杯饮料，还需要去马路对面的商店购买， 不少人对此望而却步。于是Duncan灵机一动， 背着一桶自制的柠檬水，在海滩上来回走动售 卖，甚至每天跑几个海滩以增加销量。暑假过 后，除了首次创业的成功，他收获的还有一身 古铜色的肌肤。 作为一个不随波逐流的人，Duncan在毕业 后没有顺理成章的继续所学的专业，成为一名 通信工程师，而是在CMC Markets的平台上 开始进行差价合约交易，一个在当时极为新兴 的行业。 CMC Markets的交易平台之所以能够吸引 Duncan，他分享道：“CMC Markets是市 场上第一个提供客户情绪指标的平台。我是一 个逆势交易者，我喜欢选择和市场和大众逆向 而行，客户情绪指标能够让我很清楚的看到市 场上的大多数人做的是什么样的选择，对市场 情绪有更为直观的认知。” Duncan常喜欢用高尔夫来比喻交易，“高 尔夫和交易一样，都要心态要非常成熟。心浮 气躁的人是不可能喜欢高尔夫的。它们讲究的 都是那种“水到渠成，浑然天成”的状态。” 澳大利亚的金融交易圈，很多人都知道 这个浑然天成的一瞬间，并不是靠每天交杯 Duncan。澳大利亚的《金融评论报》 换盏声色犬马等来的。“前期需要大量的调 说“如果有一个人是天生的交易员，那这个人 查，整个过程你会很痛苦，市场要看很久，有 就是Duncan”。年仅31岁的他，是外汇(FX) 时候你也会非常困惑，觉得无法理解这个市 和差价合约(CFD)交易员，曾在短短的六个月 场。但当你突然到达这一“点”时，你会大 之内，将账户上的五位数字变成七位数字。 悟，哦，原来是这样的！那一天，你所做的交 Duncan的脸比他的实际年龄还要显得年轻 易都将是水到渠成的。”

在

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One&Only海曼岛度假村酒店坐落于昆士兰州海岸的降灵群岛，经 全面翻修后成为澳大利亚极具代表性的豪华度假胜地

Nestled among the Whitsunday Islands off the Queensland coast, the newly remodelled One&Only Hayman Island resort plans on keeping its crown as Australia’s most iconic luxury escape Words by Constantina Pilatos

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here’s something Hollywood-like about being flown over the Great Barrier Reef in a super-charged helicopter to a private island, the ocean below shimmering with every vibrant gradient of blue and green imaginable. As stunning as the scenery is, however, it’s well matched by Hayman Island’s luxury resort, One&Only, itself stretching across half the island’s foreshore.

A short two-hour flight north of Sydney and blessed with year-round warm weather, the Whitsundays have been a holiday hotspot for Aussies for decades, with Hayman at the forefront of its luxury offerings for over 60 years. Lured by proximity to the Great Barrier Reef, celebrity holidaymakers from Elton John to Leonardo DiCaprio have enjoyed this island playground. In fact, Hayman is also the closest island (with accommodations) to the UNESCO World Heritage site. But while the reef itself is a massive drawcard, Hayman’s newest upgrades mean the island brings in plenty of visitors in its own right.

NEW AND IMPROVED As we land on a tiny patch of grass near the pier and are escorted by buggy through the resort’s perfectly manicured grounds, it’s hard

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乘直升机跨越 是一个庞大的大自然瑰宝， 大堡礁，飞往 海曼岛最新的升级配备必 这个私人海岛 定能吸引更多的游客。 时，宛如置身于荷里活电 影中。从上空俯瞰蓝绿 崭然一新 交织的碧绿海洋，同样跟 直升机降落在靠近码头的 天然风貌一样摄人心魄的 一块小草坪上，下机后有 当属海曼岛豪华度假酒店 专车接送到酒店。途中经 One&Only，两者配合得 过酒店精心修剪的草原， 天衣无缝。 看着这块绿草如茵的草地， 从悉尼北部出发短短 很难相信几年前，2011年 两个小时的飞行便来到 的时候这里被龙卷风Yasi 降灵群岛（Whitsunday 严重摧毁，导致岛屿一度 Islands），这里全年均 关闭。 拥有温暖宜人的气候，数 酒店虽然在暴风过后 十年以来一直是澳大利亚 能恢复过来并且重新营 人旅游度假的圣地。而位 业，只是到了近期才真正 处降灵群岛北端的海曼岛 完全完成修复。这要感谢 是该地区少数提供豪华体 One&Only酒店集团耗 验的绿洲，为大众服务了 资八千万来进行修缮，并 超过60年之久。这座私 且重塑品牌，让此度假 密的海岛坐落于大堡礁的 酒店成为One&Only酒 中心地段，是距离这个世 店集团旗下的一颗新生明 界自然遗产最近的一个带 珠。素以卓越品质著称的 有住宿的岛屿，因此吸引 One&Only度假村酒店遍 了许多名人明星到访，包 及世上风光最为明媚的地 括唱作人Elton John以及 方包括马尔代夫、毛里求 国际知名演员Leonardo 斯及巴哈马。 DiCaprio。毕竟大堡礁也 翻 修 过 后 焕 然 一

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to believe that just a few years ago, in 2011, Cyclone Yasi tore through Hayman, wreaking havoc and ultimately causing the island to shut down. While the resort managed to recover and begin operating again, it wasn’t until recently that its ‘Glamazon’ status was fully restored – thanks to an $80 million revamp and complete rebranding under the banner of One&Only, which also features stays in exclusive locations such as the Maldives, Mauritius and the Bahamas.

“Our biggest change in terms of hardware was in the pool wing, where all rooms were made into suites,” says Guenter Gebhard, general manager of One&Only Hayman. Of the 45 new pool suites, the ground floor rooms have been resized, making two former rooms one. Light-filled and spacious, they feature canopy beds, freestanding baths, flat-screen TVs, dressing rooms and – the hero feature – a swim-up timber deck from the resort’s iconic hexagonal pool. Fun fact: it can fill an Olympic-size pool sevenfold.

It’s not just the hardware that has been finetuned. “We’ve gone a step further. While we’ve mastered the cosmetics of the resort, we’ve also mastered the human element,” says Guenter.

“I don’t think anybody does a butler service like we do.” You’ll find it hard to disagree.

新，以崭新的面貌视 人。One&Only海曼岛 度假村酒店的总经理 Guenter Gebhard说 道，“在硬件上来讲我们 最大的改变是游泳池的那 一边，在那边的所有房间 都改装成为套房。”45间 连接游泳池的套房，底层 原来的两间房间现在合二 为一，不仅空间更加宽敞 而且阳光十足。房间内设 有浪漫的遮篷床、独立浴 室、平面电视、梳妆房，

最具特色的设备是连接酒 店游泳池的木制甲板，让 客人从私人平台直达这个 具代表性的六边形游泳池 下水畅游（小趣事：它的 水量能填满7个奥林匹克 标准游泳池）。 不仅酒店的硬件被提 升。Guenter说，“我们 除了装饰了酒店的外表， 还对‘人’这方面关照周 到。我想没有别家能与我 们的服务媲美。”您将发 现没有任何理由能反驳他

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“度假村酒店位处于大堡礁中心 这个得天独厚的地理位置”

Stephen, our personal butler for our stay, not only chaperoned us from activity to activity, helping us navigate our way through the resort’s palm-lined footpaths, but he was also incredibly informative. Suggestions such as, “The wind is predicted to pick up this evening – might be best to bring a light jacket with you,” were always on point, and the little compliments like, “You look lovely this evening ma’am,” never went unappreciated.

Stephen isn’t the only individual making a difference at One&Only Hayman. Among the resort’s 420 staff members is French podiatrist, Bastien Gonzalez, who has brought his internationally recognised manicure and pedicure treatment to the One&Only spa.

Meanwhile Jamie Duran, the man responsible for the body of Australian supermodel Elle MacPherson, has introduced his health and wellness concept Bodyism to the resort.

Duran’s exercise programs are incorporated into the high-tech fitness centre and, for those health fanatics, his Clean & Lean meals feature on each of the resort’s restaurant menus.

As far as those menus go, there are plenty of them to choose from. Fire, the signature restaurant, has a strong Australian theme; Amici serves Italian and wood-fired pizzas; Pacific offers a mix of modern cuisine and

这句话。 这次到访，Stephen 是我们的私人管家，他 除了陪伴我们参加各种活 动之外，还协助我们在酒 店棕榈成荫的人行道上导 航。Stephen非常见闻广 博，而且经常给予适时合 用的好建议如“这个晚上 预计风会很大，最好随身 携带一件薄的外套”，还 有一些让人窝心的的小赞 美如“小姐妳今晚真漂 亮”。 One&Only海曼岛 度假村酒店并不是只有 Stephen在孤身作战，为 客人提供卓越周到的 服务。法国足病治疗师 Bastien Gonzalez是酒店 420位员工的其中一员，为 One&Only水疗所带来了 受国际公认的美甲修脚护 理。另外，负责澳大利 亚星级模特儿身体形象的 Jamie Duran，为酒店引进 了他的健美理念“Bodyism” 。酒店内的高科技健身中 心采用Duran的锻炼计划 ，

不仅如此，对于那些健康 的狂热分子，在酒店的每一 家餐厅内都能找到他的健 康餐单Clean & Lean。 海曼岛上有各式各样 的餐厅任君挑选，岛上 的招牌餐厅是一家带有 浓烈澳大利亚风情的Fire 餐厅；Amici餐厅提供 意大利美食以及柴烧比 萨；Pacific餐厅则有混合 现代风味的菜肴以及美味 的早餐供应；Bamboo餐 厅提供泛亚洲美食；全新 的Aquazure是一家位于 池边，提供西班牙风格小 吃的餐厅；在波光粼粼的 游泳池边的On the Rocks 餐厅为您提供Hayman Colada，此款饮料以原 个去皮去核的鲜椰子盛载， 让人身心清凉。

深海寻宝 倘若只能挑选出一样海曼 岛One&Only独具非凡的 东西，那无疑是他们无微 不至的服务，让您感觉自 己是酒店里唯一的客人。

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delicious breakfasts; Bamboo dishes up panAsian delights; all-new Aquazure serves Spanishinspired tapas by the pool; and On the Rocks is suspended over the shimmering Hayman pool, where a Hayman Colada served in a freshly peeled and pitted coconut is best sipped at.

INTO THE BLUE Whether it’s the butler service or being given the best attention from wait staff at a restaurant, if there’s one thing Hayman is good at it’s making you feel like you’re the only guest in the resort. Rather than having to huddle with groups of other hotel guests for a day tour or planned outing, all One&Only tailored experiences are exclusively private.

Thanks to the resort’s unique location in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, the natural wonder is conveniently a short yacht, chopper or sea plane ride away from your suite. For those ocean lovers, the PADI Discover Scuba Diving tour coaches you on safety and dive skills before heading off on an underwater adventure. Zigzag your way through The Maze, a labyrinth of vibrant coloured coral heads, then swim to the Fish Bowl, a diving area swarming with 1,500 fish species that casually swim above, below and all around – you can’t help but feel like a mermaid (or merman!).

您并不需要跟其他酒店的 旅客集结成团地参加一天 游或已设定好的出游活动， 所有One&Only量身定制 的体验都不对外开放。 度假村酒店位处于大 堡礁中心这个得天独厚的 地理位置，只需搭乘船舶、 直升机或水上飞机，一段 短短的路程便能来到这块 天然瑰宝。喜欢海洋的游 客可以参加PADI水肺潜 水课程，探进海底开始探 索前工作人员将会教授专 业的潜水知识和技巧，确 保客人玩得安全。在水 底下穿过“迷宫”（The Maze），一个像迷宫一 样的珊瑚丘，充满活力、 彩色斑斓。然后游到“鱼 碗”（Fish Bowl）潜水 点，这里有1,500种鱼类在 您的四周畅游，身处如此 梦幻的情景中，让人不由 自主地觉得自己是一条美 人鱼，同是海洋的一部分。 如果您对海底没有任何 兴趣，这里还有很多不用 弄湿双脚却能探索礁石的

活动供选择。酒店的飞行 员非常乐意用直升机载您 翱翔巡航，为您展示所有 美不胜收的自然奇迹，从 举世闻名的心型礁到哈迪 礁。如果您是在五月至九 月之间到访，还能一睹座 头鲸的风采。座头鲸在这 个季节从南极迁移来到大 堡礁繁殖，在冬季期间储 存足够的能量及体力以应 付南极冰冷的夏天。 至于那些完全不想参与 活动，只想在酒店享受悠 闲时光的旅客，在池边享 用一杯Hayman Colada， 此款饮料是经海曼岛改良 过的Pina Colada（用朗 姆酒，椰子汁和菠萝汁调 制而成的饮料），加入了 新鲜椰子汁和些许奶油甜 酒，必定让您百喝不厌。 时光飞逝，周末就如此结 束，我们多希望时间永远 停留在此刻此地。亲身体 验过之后，就不难理解为 何海曼岛永远是各国旅游 者翘首期盼，渴望前往的 旅游目的地。◆

Aussie idyll One&Only Hayman is Australian luxury at its best.

With the latest buzz, landing We suggest booking early.

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If you’re not keen on exploring the vast deep, you’ll be pleased to know there are alternative ways to explore the reef without getting your feet wet. One of the resort’s pilots will happily escort you over the reef, via chopper, pointing out all the picture-worthy natural marvels, from Heart Reef – a reef that has formed into the shape of a love heart – to Hardy Reef. If visiting between the months of May and September, stunning reefs aren’t all you’ll want to keep an eye out for. Humpback whales can be spotted migrating up from the Antarctic to calve and build up strength over the winter before they return to the icy south for the summer. The scenic trip takes a brief pause, landing on the iconic Whitehaven Beach for a private champagne picnic, before picking up again to return to the resort.

For those less interested in experiences and more keen on simply lounging about the resort to unwind, you certainly won’t get tired of sipping one of the aforementioned Hayman Coladas – a twist on the pina colada made, in true island tradition, by adding some fresh coconut water and a little butterscotch schnapps by the pool. After a weekend we wished lasted a lifetime, it’s easy to see why Hayman is on the bucket list of discerning travellers the world over. ◆

“倘若只能挑选出一样海曼岛 One&Only独具非凡的东西， 那便是他们无微不至的服务”

Heaven on eart h

While Beijing will always be the bustling capital city one would expect, it has plenty of places where serenity reigns – and nowhere more so than Tiantan Words Adrian Mourby Photography Mark Parren Taylor

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very year, as the winter solstice approached, the Emperor of China would leave the Forbidden City, passing through the massive Qianmen Gate on his way south to Tiantan.

His subjects were held back by guards and forbidden to watch as the Emperor and his retinue covered the 3km that took him to where he would perform his single most important task of the year.

The beauty of the buildings at Tiantan (also known as the Temple of Heaven) attests to its importance. Tiantan’s style – huge red doors studded with golden bosses, ornate ceramic roof tiles, circular wooden pillars and delicate blue and green roof beams – is found elsewhere in China and is certainly echoed in the Forbidden City. But in the rarified atmosphere of Tiantan (literally the Altar of Heaven) the imperial styles of the Ming and Manchu dynasties achieved their perfect expression. This is partly because at Tiantan all the major buildings serve a purely religious function.

There is nothing as mundane or practical as an audience chamber, nothing even functional until you start exploring the smaller service rooms hidden by the Long Corridor.

To many people Tiantan, this huge 660-acre complex in southerly Doncheng, is the most beautiful part of Beijing.

Making the rounds THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN HAS A ROUND ENTRANCE AT ITS NORTHERN END, A SQUARE ONE IN THE SOUTH

Built between 1406 and 1420 for the Yongle Emperor, the complex is semicircular at its northern end and square to the south. The symbolism behind this irregularity reflects the purpose of the Tiantan. The heavens are represented by the semicircular segment, the earth by the square. The whole complex is there to help the Emperor mediate between these two worlds.

The Emperor of China was also Tianzi, the Son of Heaven. If he maintained a good relationship with the gods then his people would prosper. Twice a year – most importantly at the winter solstice – and right up until 1914, the Emperor of China would make the journey to pray for good harvests, general prosperity, and avoidance of any kind of disaster.

Arriving three days before the winter solstice, the Emperor and his retinue would take up residence in the green-roofed Palace of Abstinence on the western side of the complex and here abjure not just meat, sex, and alcohol, but also music and the affairs of state. Then, on the chilly dawn of the solstice itself, he would carry out his most important task. Failure to intercede successfully could lead to crop failure and all manner of national disasters. These would be interpreted as the Emperor having lost the approval of the heavens, and he might well be deposed. The ceremonies at Tiantan were vital not just for China but for the demigod performing them.

Before the sun rose the Emperor and his retinue would process between the three main buildings of Tiantan, which

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are aligned north south through the middle of the park.

The first of these is the tallest, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, a triple-roofed circular structure, 38 metres tall and the only example of Mingdang architecture to survive in China. Arriving along the Pathway of Honour, the Emperor would pray here that the nation enjoy good harvests in the coming year. Today we can go inside and see that this building is supported by four gargantuan red pillars that represent the four seasons.

The prayer hall is even more remarkable when you consider it is completely made of wood. No nails or other fixings were used when it was put together in the 15th century. It was struck by lightning in 1889 and burned down completely. A story was breathed abroad that an impious centipede had climbed on to the golden pearl on the summit of the roof, and the gods’ thunderbolt was just too powerful.

This current hall is an exact 20th-century reconstruction.

Next the Emperor and his retinue would proceed south along the 360-metre Vermilion Steps Bridge down to the Imperial Vault of Heaven, a roofed circular building surrounded by the circular Echo Wall. Here he would change his robes and collect the ancestor tablets, which would be used in the ceremony at the Altar of Heaven. Built in 1520 as the Hall for Appeasing Gods, it was given its present form in 1752. The exquisite ceiling of the Imperial Vault has a

Tiantan by design THE ORNATE DESIGNS SEEN ON THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN ARE CHARACTERISTIC OF TIANTaN

“EVERY ELEMENT IN D E S I G N I S A M U LT I P L E OF NINE, THE SACRED NUMBER OF THE EMPEROR” design based on a gilded dragon coiling round a single pearl.

As the first light of the winter solstice broke into Tiantan, the Emperor would offer prayers at the circular Altar of Heaven. This is a very different, wholly open air structure lying at the most southerly part of the complex and consisting of an empty circular marble platform on three levels, each decorated by lavishly carved dragons.

Every element in the design is a multiple of nine, the sacred number associated with the Emperor. At the very centre is a round slate called the Heart of Heaven or the Supreme Yang, where the Emperor prayed for favourable weather in the coming year. A remarkable feature of the design is the way the guardrail reflects and augments every syllable on that stone. This was supposed to help the Emperor’s prayer communicate with Heaven. The Altar was built in 1530 by the Jiajing Emperor and rebuilt, like the Imperial Vault, in the 18th century.

With so much religious significance infused into every section of the complex, it can be a surprise today to visit Tiantan and discover such a relaxed and joyful enclave in busy Beijing. In 1912 the temple was turned into a park by the fledgling Republic of China and opened to

Paradise found Escape the Beijing buzz in Tiantan with Wendy Wu Tours. This

historical building you’ll want to know the story behind. wendywutours.com.au

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city is best explored with a private tour guide. You’ll come across many

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the Chinese public for the very first time. Unfortunately in 1948 the Guomindang felled trees in the park for use in the construction of Beijing Airport and, in the 1950s, under Mao, the periphery of the park was given over to building – such as the Beijing Tiantan Hospital – thus reducing the complex in size. But it’s still a vast area and, these days, a very happy one.

Children can be found trying out the Echo Wall where – if they keep quiet long enough – they’ll find two people standing at opposite ends of this long semicircle are able to hear each other whisper. Another popular acoustic anomaly is on the steps to the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. Here the three Echo Stones produce, not surprisingly, echoes if you clap your hands, but while the first stone echoes once, the second echoes twice, and the third stone three times.

More sedate recreations can be found in the Long Corridor, a 440-metre roofed walkway that connects the Divine Kitchen and the Animal Killing Pavilion. Originally, on the eve of the winter solstice, all the offerings – jade, silk, grain, and fruit – were transported down this red-columned service corridor, which would have been lit by hundreds of lanterns. Now all along the length of the corridor, musicians meet to play together, and choirs to sing. You’ll even find games of cards and mah jong being played by people sitting on its low green balustrades.

Elsewhere in Tiantan middle-aged couples practise ballroom dancing or tai chi. In summer families picnic in the grass embankments that lie between the Emperor’s raised walkways.

The Temple of Heaven may no longer communicate with the gods, but it certainly can be serene. ◆

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一切从这里开始 岩石区已成为一粒“时间胶囊”，保存了悉尼的起源史， Trent van der Jagt 带领我们探寻其过去如何塑造出今天的风貌

Where it all began The Rocks has become Sydney’s time capsule. Trent van der Jagt explores how the city’s past has formed its present Photography Trent van der Jagt/Destination NSW/Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority

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Facade off ALMOST EVERY BUILDING IN GEORGE STREET HAS BEEN PRESERVED TO CAPTURE AN OLD WORLD VIBE

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n 1788, when the early settlers first 一 批 移 民 于 1 7 8 8 年 laid eyes upon Sydney Cove, they were 登录悉尼湾 welcomed by a wall of craggy rocks and （Sydney Cove），当时 sharp sandstone cliffs. Luckily, they 此地怪石嶙峋，除了有许 also saw one other thing: opportunity. 多锋利的砂岩峭壁之外， Setting up camp on a rugged coastline was no 还充满着各种机会。这里 simple task, but with a multitude of coves and 未必是露营的好地方，不 inlets for ships to anchor, this would become 过有着众多的海湾以及给 Australia’s first colonial settlement and most 船舶停泊的码头，因此 important trading port. Gradually, The Rocks 成为澳大利亚第一批移民 became Australia’s link with the rest of the world 到步的港湾及最重要的 – a place of ideas, trade and culture, and home 贸易港口。岩石区（The to dockworkers, labourers, traders, immigrants Rocks）渐渐变成澳大利 and more than its fair share of convicts. 亚 与世界各地联系的地 Though this was a far cry from the home the 方 ， 充满创意、贸易和 newcomers were used to, or dreamt of, it meant 文化，成为码头工人、劳 an eclectic streetscape could be created from 工、商人、移民人士的家 scratch. Buildings took on 1600s-style Dutch 园，其人数超过从海外被 architecture, banks featured massive Greek 送过来的囚犯。 columns, lower George Street was known as 可是这里有别于新移 Little Canton, homes mimicked the shape of 民 曾 经熟悉的家园，也 quaint British terraces, pubs popped up on every 不是他们想像中的模样， corner and it was home to the only prison. 这代表着可以从零勾画 Today, The Rocks is more than just a 出 兼收并蓄，多元化的 museum of Australia’s past; it is a thriving, 街 道 。一些大楼采用17 modern community that has embraced and 世 纪 荷兰建筑的风格、 redirected its history. “The government bought 银 行 拥 有巨大的希腊柱 up the area in the 1900s when it was becoming 子 、 乔 治 街（George a little dishevelled,” explains historian and Street）的下半部分有“ archaeologist, Wayne Johnson, who has been

小广州”之称、房子模仿 古朴英国露台的形状，以 及每个角落都能找到酒 吧。 今天的岩石区不仅是 展现澳大利亚过去的博 物馆，还是一个蓬勃发 展的现代化社区，它拥 抱历史，并且把其重新 演绎得淋漓尽致。“岩 石区在1900年代时开始 变得有点混乱，政府决 定把它拆毁，重建一个 崭新闪亮的中心商务 区。可是历经了两次大 战、瘟疫及经济萧条后， 这个计划最终于1950年 代才正式实行，”在过 去的21年一直参与岩石 区的保存、复兴及发展 工作的历史学家兼考古 学家Wayne Johnson 说道，“到了1960年代， 社区居民、历史保护团 体及澳大利亚公民因担 心“老悉尼”即将全部 消失，因此发起抗争。” 走在岩石区的街上 便能体验悉尼的发展过 程。看到护士街（Nurse

“IT BECAME A U S T R A L I A’ S L I N K WITH THE WORLD – A TOWN OF IDEAS, TRADE

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“岩石区变成澳大利亚与 世界各地联系的地方， 充满创意、贸易和文化”

SYDNEY Bridging the gap (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) TALLSHIP IN CAMPBELLS COVE; SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE; GEORGE STREET PAST AND PRESENT

working with the area and its revival for 21 years. “The plan was to tear it down and create a brand spanking new CBD for the brave new world, but after two great wars, a plague and a depression, this didn’t become a real plan until the 1950s. However, by the 1960s, people power struck, with many residents, historians and citizens looking to save the gateway to Sydney and preserve its human element.”

Simply walking down the street offers a history lesson on Sydney. On the sign-posted Nurses Walk it’s possible to tread the same worn sandstone pavers, to duck down the narrow alleyways and climb the steep stairways once used as a shortcut by the nurses working at the colony’s first hospital. On George Street, the original path of the Cadigal people, you’ll spot the ornate sandstone facade of The Rocks Police Station, now home to the popular Le Pain Quotidien Belgian café – but you can still see and feel the building’s previous life. “Every business takes preservation seriously. Here you can still appreciate the old through the new.

You can even sit inside the old cells if you want.

We want to make sure we keep these buildings relevant – new places with an old heart,” says Johnson. “We aren’t interested in locking away and protecting parts of the area. We are aiming to keep these buildings and their stories alive.”

Historians have poured over historic papers and photographs to make sure the George Street you walk down today captures the same mood as it once did. Small eateries, pubs and local businesses line the streets, with their original colours and decorations, as they would have decades ago. “We’re not interested in forcing the history and stories onto visitors.

We want them to experience it first-hand and live inside it,” says Johnson. “You appreciate

“我们希望保留这些建筑 的联系性，新的地方却 盛载一颗旧的心” Walk）的招牌，便来到 馆、酒吧和当地的商家， 了一条狭窄的小巷，地 店铺以原来的颜色及装 上破旧的砂岩路是当年 饰示人，就好像几十年 遗留下来的，而陡峭 前一样。Johnson说， 的楼梯是当年在殖民地 “我们不喜欢把历史及故 第一家医院工作的护士 事硬塞给游客，我们希 所通往医院的捷径。乔 望 他 们 能 够 亲 身 体 验 。 治街原是原住民卡地 在您欣赏这些建筑、历 哥人（Cadigal）的路 史的同时，也拥有现代化 径，在这条街上您会看 的体验。这些建筑成为了 到一道华丽的砂岩外墙， 一本活生生的历史书。” 这里曾经是岩石区警察 大部分的建筑都是根 局，现在变成了著名的 据历史实物重建，不过 Le Pain Quotidien比利 区内其中有一些最重要 时咖啡厅，但您仍旧能 及极具影响力的建筑是 看到以及感受到此地以 被代代相传下来持续占 前的气息。Johnson说 有的。以The Aussie酒 道，“在这里的每个商 吧为例，它是澳大利亚 家都认真保存历史的痕 文化的堡垒，过去180 迹，您甚至可以坐在从 年鲜有改变。还有，坐 旧时保留下来的建筑内。 在 O r i e n t 酒 店 的 硬 木 我们希望保留这些建筑 栏上或塞进砖墙四壁的 的联系性，新的地方却 Fortune of War酒馆里， 盛载一颗旧的心。我们不 便 能 亲 身 体 验 早 期 移 民 仅仅致力保育部分的地 的生活，并且喝上一杯， 方，而是保护这些建筑以 无疑比他们当年所喝的要 及它们背后的故事。” 好喝。 历史学家翻阅历史文 其他的建筑物把焦点 档及旧照片，确保今天 集中在为空间注入新生 当 您 走 在 乔 治 街 上 时 能 命。专营男士悠闲高贵的 体 会 到 当 年 的 味 道 。 一 丝绸服装的本地企业Joe 路下来有一系列的小餐 Bananas，其旗舰店最

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“THE ROCKS IS A HIVE FOR C R E AT I V E S A N D FRESH IDEAS”

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Ye olde tavern MANY PUBS IN THE ROCKS CLAIM TO BE THE OLDEST IN AUSTRALIA

the building, you appreciate the history but you still have a modern experience. The buildings become a history book in themselves.”

While most buildings have been re-imagined, some of the most important and influential buildings in the area have maintained continuous occupation through generations. Take the Aussie pub, for example: that great bastion of Australian culture, where little has changed in the last 180 years. To sit at the shining hardwood bar of the Orient Hotel or cram yourself amongst the tiled walls of the Fortune of War allows you

to experience first-hand what life was like for the early settlers, while enjoying an admittedly better drink than they’d have been used to.

Other buildings are clearly focused on breathing new life into the space. Local business, Joe Bananas, a menswear store specialising in casual silk designs, has recently opened its flagship store at 103 George Street. While you can still see the faded text on the original sandstone exterior and a large ‘6 pence meals’ sign, it’s unlikely you’ll find anything that cheap there. “The Rocks is the most beautiful part of Sydney and has the most history,” says Evan Sturrock, owner of Joe Bananas. “Our label has a story to tell and our label has its own long Australian history. This was the perfect match.

To me, the actual heart of Sydney is in The Rocks and that’s why we wanted to be here.”

Joe Bananas was originally the site of the local butcher store, an open-air sandstone store with a beautifully painted facade, tiled walls and sloping floor (to drain the blood away). Just a few years ago many stores were covering up the exposed tiles and sandstone interiors in favour of a more modern approach, but new businesses are beginning to embrace what makes their space unique: its story. “It’s an up-and-coming area in the midst of some change, and I’m a firm believer that in a few more years this area will be humming. It’s like a small getaway from the city.

You only need to walk a few minutes from the CBD to find yourself in this relaxed village.”

The Rocks has become a hive for creatives, local businesses, bespoke handicrafts and fresh ideas – a destination for anything and everything unique. If you’re looking for a traditional cutthroat shave, one-of-a-kind jewellery, a hatter or certified Aboriginal art, The Rocks is home to it all. The Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority, which took over the area in 1999, has been working hard to establish the area as an escape from big city life by putting on a number of markets and festivals every weekend. Whether it’s the Friday Foodies Market along Argyle Street, where you can find everything from Turkish gozleme oozing with

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Perfect pint BARTENDER AT THE HERO OF WATERLOO PULLING A BEER AMONGST THE HERITAGE LISTED INTERIOR

近在乔治街103号开张。 店外原有的砂岩外墙上仍 能隐约看见一些已经模糊 掉的字以及一个写着“6 便士膳食”的大招牌，不 过在Joe Bananas的 店内并不能找到如此便 宜的东西。老板Evan Sturrock说，“岩石区是 悉尼最美丽的一部分，并 且拥有着最深厚的历史。 至于我们的品牌，每款限 量款及手工制造的款式背 后都会有一个故事，我们 的品牌在澳大利亚也有 悠长的历史，跟岩石区真 的是绝配。对我而言，岩 石区是悉尼真正的心脏 地带，因此我们想以此 为家。” Joe Bananas所在的 店位以前是一家当地的肉 店，以砂岩建成的店铺拥 有彩绘精美的门面、瓷砖 墙及倾斜的地板（用以排

血）。Sturrock说，“上 一任业主把所有暴露出来 的瓷砖及石地板覆盖，可 是我们想把旧世界的风 情呈现出来，成为我们 的一部分。这家商店以 前是被本地商家拥有，时 至今日，经营这家店铺的 我们也是本地家族经营 的企业。”Sturrock继续 说，“这区正经历一些改 变，我坚定相信几年之内 这里将会更加的活跃。这 岩 石 区 都 能 满 足 您 。 悉 的传统食物——羊奶酪 里 就 像 在 城 市 以 外 的 小 尼海港管理局（Sydney gozleme，到人手制作 区，您只需从中央商务区 Harbour 的巧克力及馅饼。还有许 Foreshore 步行几分钟便来到了这个 Authority）于1999年接 多不同的美食及手工节如 悠闲的小镇。” 咖啡节（Aroma Coffee 管岩石区，透过每个周 岩 石 区 已 成 为 创 意 、 末举行的市集与节庆活 Festival）及巧克力节 本 地 商 家 、 定 制 手 工 艺 动 ， 一 直 以 来 致 力 把 该 （Festival of Chocolate） 品 以 及 新 思 维 的 汇 聚 之 区 塑 造 成 为 逃 离 大 城 市 ，每个周末的岩石区在悉 地，是一切跟“独特”有 生 活 的 桃 源 。 如 每 逢 周 尼海港为背景下都充满着 关的目的地。无论是寻找 五于阿盖尔街（Argyle 悦人的一切以及阵阵扑鼻 传统的剃须刀、独一不二 Street）举办的美食集市 而来的香气。街道两旁或 的首饰、定制的帽子或是 （Foodies Market）有各 小巷内有许多酒吧，您还 经过认证的土著艺术品， 样的特色美食，从土耳其 可以随时喝上一杯。

悉尼旧世界的魅力并 没有半点喧嚣，岩石区已 成为悉尼人远离人潮的好 去处，尽管只有一个下午 的时间而已。无论是美 食、艺术、购买手工制品 或只是喝上一杯，这里一 定有吸引您到访游览的理 由。加上悉尼海港管理局 积极筹办更多活动及集 市，岩石区肯定会继续绽 放成为悉尼历史最悠长的 新天地。◆

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To market THE ROCKS IS HOME TO ONE OF THE LARGEST AND MOST-LOVED LOCAL MARKETS

feta to handcrafted chocolates and tarts, or one of the many stand-alone food and handicraft festivals, such as the Aroma Coffee Festival or the Festival of Chocolate, the weekends come alive with the best sights and smells Sydney has to offer – all with the backdrop of Sydney Harbour. And with plenty of bars and pubs lining the streets or tucked down alleys, you can always sneak off for a quick drop in-between.

All the charm of old-world Sydney without the hustle and bustle, The Rocks has become a Bohemian space for Sydneysiders and travellers alike to ditch the big city for a small village vibe, even if it’s just for the afternoon. Whether its food, art, artisan shopping or simply a cool afternoon beer, The Rocks is the home of fresh ideas and bustling weekends. And with more activities, markets and bars popping up every week, The Rocks is sure to continue blooming into Sydney’s oldest new playground. ◆

Eat The Argyle

Bar 100

拥有原装硬木柱子以及历 史悠久的室内设计的The Argyle餐厅，是远离烦嚣享受 美食佳酿及现场音乐的好去 处。这里充满活力，是悉尼最 受青睐的酒吧之一。

四层高的Bar100餐厅提供高 端用餐体验、独特的鸡尾酒 吧以及介乎于两者之间的一 切。餐厅的屋顶还能俯瞰动 人的海港美景及眺望悉尼的 天际线。

With original hardwood pillars and a historic interior, The Argyle is a great escape for delicious food, superb cocktails and live music. At night, it comes alive as one of Sydney's favourite bars. theargylerocks.com.au

Spanning across four levels, Bar 100 offers fine dining, exclusive cocktail bars and everything in between as well as gorgeous rooftop views of the harbour and Sydney skyline. bar100.com.au

Waterfront

Quay

坐落于原有的坎贝尔湾仓库 之内，Waterfront餐厅坐拥 悉尼最美的海港景观，以及 提供美味的澳大利亚海鲜 大餐。

Quay餐厅由著名厨师Peter Gilmore掌勺，成为澳大利亚 获奖最多的餐厅。一边欣赏悉 尼海港全景，一边品尝富有澳 大利亚风情的美食。

Set in the original Campbells Cove Storehouses, Waterfront boasts one of Sydney's best views of the Harbour and offers delicious Australian seafood cuisine. docksidegroup.com.au

Quay is Australia's most awarded restaurant thanks to chef Peter Gilmore. With an unobscured view of the entire harbour, you'll find the best in Australian cuisine. quay.com.au

Living the high life Not only is Shanghai’s nightlife arguably the most lively in China, but its bars love nothing more than matching stunning cocktails with a spectacular view, reckons Sarah O’Meara

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Wet your whistle (BELOW) THE WHIRLPOOL BATH AT VUE BAR IS CERTAIN TO LEAVE PARTYGOERS IN A SPIN

W

alking down Wuyuan Lu in Shanghai’s former French Concession, you can hear the sound of jazz coming from the old-school, wooden-panelled speakeasy, Senator Saloon.

Inside, bar-goers cram into cosy booths lit

by Art Deco wall lamps, sip Prohibition erastrength cocktails and discuss the delights of the night ahead.

In recent years Shanghai’s bar scene has become wonderfully diverse. Whether you want to spend the evening in the swinging ‘20s or in the 21st century, sipping an imported beer while listening to chilled beats and watching graphics projected onto an exposed brick wall – there’s a bar for you.

But whatever your tipple, Shanghai bar lovers will never tire of the city’s fantastic views. You’re only ever a few drinks away from someone suggesting that you hit the rooftops.

In the past few years, the number of bars with spectacular views has crept up. Now you can choose anything from high-end luxe to lowkey local when you go in search of a glittering backdrop for your third Martini.

The most recent addition to the scene is 1515 West, located in the new five-star ShangriLa hotel near Jing An Temple. Although not strictly speaking a rooftop bar, the hotel has embraced a new Shanghai trend for ‘up views’.

The bar is located on the fourth floor, where the New York-style loft windows offer a heady close-up view of neighbouring skyscrapers and the twinkling lights beyond. It’s just another cleverly designed way of allowing Shanghai’s cityscape to improve your cocktail.

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If you want the tourist snapshot view of the Bund while you’re out on the town there’s no bar more famous than Bar Rouge. Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, Bar Rouge has been a consistent trendsetter for a decade.

Director of Bar Rouge, Antoine Khan Pernet, says the Shanghai bar scene has changed dramatically in the past five years. Instead of ordering baskets of beers, his customers are now picking out magnums of Moët without glancing at the price. “I would say there are now three times as many bars. Investing in bars is extremely popular in China, and Shanghai is arguably the country’s coolest city, so we’ve seen an explosion in the number of bars here.”

Shanghai’s bar scene is typically divided into two types: the smaller, carefully targeted niche bars that serve high-quality drinks; and the super-clubs that cater to huge crowds, host multiple DJs and play electronic dance

“BAR ROUGE IS THE WORLD’S THIRD BIGGEST SELLER OF MOËT & CHANDON. SHANGHAI BAR G O E R S H AV E G L A M O R O U S TA S T E S ” music. “We are somewhere in the middle, so we offer a bar with a sophisticated design concept and high-end drinks, while having a club atmosphere,” says Pernet.

“Of all the bars in the world, Bar Rouge is the third biggest seller of Moët & Chandon Champagne,” he adds, laughing. “That’s a fact.

Shanghai bar-goers have glamorous tastes.”

HITTING THE ROOFTOPS Also situated on the Bund is the elegant, comfortable and stylish VUE Bar at Hyatt on the Bund. From its location on the top floor of

VUE from up high (ABOVE) VUE BAR AT THE HYATT FEATURES STUNNING VIEWS ACROSS THE HUANGPU RIVER

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A BIT OF FLAIR

Bar hopping (TOP) FLAIR BAR AT THE RITZ-CARLTON; (RIGHT) BAR ROUGE; (OPPOSITE, TOP RIGHT) 1515 WEST AT THE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL (OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT) CHAR BAR AT HOTEL INDIGO

this five-star hotel there are views of both sides of the Huangpu River – the Bund on the Puxi side and the colourful skyline of the Lujiazui area on the Pudong side. High up on the 33rd floor you’ll find an open-air terrace featuring day-bed seating, as well as an enticing whirlpool bath to soak your cares away.

Another rooftop bar favourite is the CHAR Bar at Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund.

The outdoor bar and terrace directly overlooks the river and has 270-degree views over the Bund and Pudong skylines. It’s enough to impress even those Shanghai stalwarts who think they’ve seen it all before.

Designed by a world-renowned interiors firm, the design emphasis is on natural materials and industrial finishes. Think dark woods, stone feature walls and exposed ceilings offset by quirky modern art pieces and installations. With lounge tunes mixed by resident DJs every weekend and bar staff who know how to mix a great cocktail, it’s quickly becoming a go-to favourite for locals.

For bar lovers in Shanghai, it can feel like there’s only one reason to cross the river to Pudong – and that’s to drink a cocktail while enjoying possibly the best view in China.

The Flair bar at the Ritz-Carlton offers one of the city’s most spectacular views. Sitting on the 58th floor, it’s the perfect place for sundowners. If you’re lucky, you can grab a table outside and watch the city transform from an urban landscape to a sea of glittering lights. Inside, the décor is a warm blend of contemporary and rustic design, creating a lounge vibe that makes it difficult to stick to just the one appletini!

Pernet says Shanghai partygoers have become accustomed to partying through the

SHANGHAI

“ C O M PA R E D T O F I V E Y E A R S AGO, PEOPLE IN SHANGHAI D E F I N I T E LY PA R T Y L AT E R ”

night. Although Chinese people tend to go out for dinner earlier than Westerners, they’ve also developed more staying power. “Compared to people five years ago, they definitely party later.

Now they like to go to clubs and then have the after party back at home. We find our guests often order more bottles so they can carry on.”

Perhaps this is why the nightclub/bar M1NT has gained such a loyal following among Shanghai’s funlovers. With a restaurant, lounge, club and terrace, the huge club is packed on weekends. The views over the Bund and Pudong are impressive, the guest list even more so.

If you find yourself in Shanghai, be sure to take a view towards the weekend and plan a night atop the city’s spectacular rooftop bars.

The views you’ll get in return are worth the effort – and the drinks are just as impressive.

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Stay grounded While you may be living it up at these rooftop bars all through the night, why not explore the city during the day? Wendy Wu Tours host short tours that will cover the must-see attractions and the best places to

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eat. wendywutours.com.au

Six of the best Bar Rouge With its glamorous touch and unmatched Champagne celebrations, this is the city’s hottest venue for striking interiors, stunning Bund views and a sexy crowd.

18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Nanjing Dong Lu, Huangpu district Flair The highest al fresco bar in China, this bar is the place to be seen sipping sundowners on a Friday night.

Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Shanghai IFC, 8 Century Avenue, Lujiazui, Pudong

VUE Bar With its cool ambience and resident DJ, this bar is the perfect venue for reclining and relaxing.

Hyatt On The Bund, 32nd-33rd Floors, Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Lu, near Wuchang Lu, Huangpu district +86 21 6393 1234 ext 6348 M1nt Mingle with Shanghai’s stylish set at the city’s most capacious bar and clubbing venue.

M1NT Tower, 318 Fuzhou Road, Huangpu district

CHAR Bar & Grill Nothing is left to chance at this intimate boutique bar with stunning decor and even better views.

Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund, 585 Zhongshan Dong Er Road, Huangpu district 1515 West Delivering top-dollar cocktails in an American old-school atmosphere, this bar is the ideal spot for a night of classy conversation.

Shangri-La Hotel, 1218 Middle Yan’an Road, Jing’an Kerry Centre, West Nanjing Road

Natural Attraction

Sydney 60 Pitt Street T. 02 9247 6344

Melbourne

HIGHER VIEW

119 Swanston Street T. 03 9662 3524

www.nationalopal.com

HIGHER VIEW

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Purple patch AUSTRALIAN GRAPES HAVE THE REPUTATION OF PRODUCING SOME OF THE WORLD’S FINEST WINES

住在葡萄间

Grape ideas 要在澳大利亚乡村度过一个最理想的周末，必定是在大丰收的季节 到访当地的葡萄园。我们为您精心细选了七个最佳的葡萄园住宿

A weekend among the vines at harvest time is the ideal way to unwind in the Australian countryside.

We offer up seven of the best vineyard stays Words Lisa Perkovic

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长屋，猎人谷

The Longhouse, Hunter Valley

于2011年开业，长屋为猎 一天起便负责所有的设计、 Opening in 2011, The Longhouse has brought modern design back to 人谷酒庄住宿带来现代风 施工及营运工作。来自各 the Hunter Valley’s wine stays. As the name suggests, this freestanding 格的设计。物如其名，并 国的建筑业学生专程来到 building is essentially a very long house, influenced by traditional 且受到传统澳大利亚羊毛 猎人谷，献出自己的技 Australian woolsheds. Split into three self-catering two-bedroom suites, 场的影响，这座独立的建 能，齐心协力同建长屋。 this is one chic shed. Marble benchtops, recycled timber, corrugated 筑物真的是非常的长。长 长屋的一切营运收入全数 iron doors, vintage Penguin paperbacks and floor-to-ceiling windows all 屋由三个两房单位并排 捐给建筑业的慈善机构。 contribute to the cosy yet cutting-edge design. 组成，每个单位内设有 长屋坐落在一个25 The Longhouse was the first project from egresStudio, a design 厨房以及两间带卫浴的睡 公 顷 的 葡 萄 园 内 ， 被 collective formed by University of Newcastle students. Design, 房，拥有舒适却不失前卫 众 多 的 酒 厂 和 酒 窖 包 construction and maintenance has been managed from day one by Jo 风格的设计，采用大理石 围 着 。 斯 卡 博 罗 酒 Baker, who began the project while she was a Masters student at the 台面、再生木材、波纹铁 庄（Scarborough university. Architectural students from around the world travelled to 门、企鹅出版集团的复古 W i n e ） 、 毕 巴 乔 酒 庄 the Hunter to contribute everything from draftsmanship to getting 平装书以及落地玻璃窗。 （Bimbadgen Winery） their hands dirty during construction. All profits from the property go 长屋是egresStudio 及 小 酒 庄 （ L i t t l e s straight to architectural charities. 负 责 的 首 个 项 Winery） 比邻而居，到 The property sits on 25 acres of vineyards and is almost entirely 目，egresStudio是由一 希望庄园（Hope Estate) surrounded by wineries and cellar doors. Scarborough Wine, 群纽卡索大学学生所组成 和古城堡酒庄（Tower Bimbadgen Winery and Littles Winery are around the corner, with 的设计团队，当时还在修 Estate）也只需数分钟的 Hope Estate, Tempus Two and Tower Estate just a few minutes further 读硕士学位的Jo Baker是 路程。 down the road. 长屋项目的负责人，从第 thelonghouse.net.au

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莫纳酒店 ，荷伯特 塔斯马尼亚清爽气候葡 萄酒素以结构精巧著称， 正因这个岛州的纬度跟 法国香槟产区及波尔多 （Bordeaux）相似，才 能产出结构如此细腻的 酒。尽管没有源远流长的 历史，可是您会发现他们 在“法国香槟屋”里，正 在尽最大的努力提高澳 大利亚气泡酒的质量及入 门槛。 其中一个葡萄园跟 著名的古今艺术博物馆 （Museum of Old and New Art,简称MONA） 连在一起，MONA由 David Walsh成立于 2011年，是澳大利亚最 大的私人博物馆。David 这个位处悬崖边的帝国

还包括比邻的莫瑞拉酒 庄（Moorilla Winery） 、穆纯酿啤酒厂（Moo Brew）以及莫纳酒店。 酒店拥有8间套房，以 几个对澳大利亚艺术有着 深远影响的艺术家的名字 命名，包括Sidney Nolan 及Brett Whiteley，有几 间客房摆放了他们的艺术 作品。从支架、玻璃幕墙 到室外浴缸及前卫大胆的 家具，每间套房的设计与 风格都截然不同。有些房 间的浴缸位置是观看风景 的绝佳位置，能俯瞰德文 特河（Derwent River）。 客房还具有莫纳的经典风 格——高科技，包括设有 无线触控面板遥控室内灯 光、空调、娱乐及影音。

Mona Pavilions, Hobart Tasmania’s cool-climate wines have gained a reputation for their delicate structure – unsurprising given the island state’s latitude is similar to that of the Champagne Region and Bordeaux in France. Although the wineries don’t have the hundreds of years of experience you’ll find in the French champagne houses, they’re doing their best to raise the bar for Australian sparkling.

One vineyard has the added star power of being attached to MONA. The Museum of Old and New Art was founded by David Walsh in 2011 and is currently the largest privately owned gallery in the country.

His cliffside empire includes neighbouring Moorilla Winery, the beer brewery Moo Brew and the MONA Pavilions.

The eight pavilions bear the names of influential Australian artists, from Sidney Nolan to Brett Whiteley. Several of the pavilions contain work by their namesakes and all are architectural works of art in their own right. From cantilevers and glass walls to outdoor bath tubs and bold furniture choices, each pavilion is different.

Some of the best views are from the bathtubs, which look straight out over the River Derwent. In typical MONA style, all are equipped with the latest gadgets, including wireless touch panels to control lighting, air con, entertainment and audio. mona.net.au/mona/accommodation/the-pavilions

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路易丝酒店 ，芭萝莎谷 别说游客，连当地人在这 侣为单位的团体而设。 家豪华的精品酒店睡了一 酒店致力为客人提供 觉之后也流连忘返。酒店 独一无二的体验，包括从 设有15间客房，跟他们 酒庄的品酒会及私人晚宴 屡获奖项的埃派雷圣餐厅 到婚宴及跟酿酒师互动。 （Appellation）一样坐落 在澳大利亚最受尊崇的酒 于山顶上。在餐厅享用完 区，别错过机会认识几位 厨师特选套餐后，不需要 伟大的幕后功臣。 乘搭自程车或专车等便能 芭萝莎谷有超过100 迅速回到酒店。 个葡萄园，其中最享负盛 每间酒店套房均拥有 名的有味道浓郁的西拉 私人阳台及庭院、特大号 （Shiraz）及各种的韦德罗 床、花洒淋浴、温泉浴缸 （Verdello）。埃派雷圣 及免费无线上网服务。室 餐厅的高端用餐主要采用 内设计简单舒适却不失 本地新鲜食材，并且搭配 现代摩登感，以精心挑选 本地出产的葡萄酒，旨在 的各种设计精品摆设来点 支持及表扬用人手制作的 缀。两房的Seppeltsfield 出产物以及当地的农民。 套房室内面积达185平方 米，空间宽敞，每间睡房 带有卫浴，专为那些以情

The Louise, Barossa Valley Even the locals lust after a night at this luxury boutique hotel, and who can blame them? The 15 rooms sit on the hilltop in the same space as the property’s award-winning Appellation Restaurant. This is the quickest trip home – no taxi or designated driver required after a decadent Chef’s Tasting Menu.

Each suite has a private terrace and courtyard, along with a king bed, rain shower, spa bath and free Wi-Fi. The modern, minimalist interiors are still comfortable, with dashes of colour from hand-picked design pieces. The two bedroom Seppeltsfield Suite is a spacious 185 square metres, and with ensuites in each bedroom, is designed for couples on group trips to the wine region.

The property specialises in unique experiences – from on-site wine tastings and private dinners to weddings and winemaker introductions – that are too good to pass up. In one of Australia’s most well-respected wine regions, meeting a few of the people behind the scenes is sure to make you something of a wine expert by the trip.

There are more than 100 wineries in South Australia’s Barossa Valley and the big names have built a solid reputation for bold shiraz and verdello varieties. Appellation’s fine dining menu keeps the focus on local produce, showcasing goods from artisanal producers and local farmers, paired with local wines. thelouise.com.au

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罗斯比宾馆，玛吉

Rosby Guesthouse, Mudgee

罗斯比酒庄距离位于新 南威尔士中西部的小城 镇玛吉（Mudgee）只 需十分钟的车程。在幽 静的山顶上除了有酒庄之 外，还有家漂亮的宾馆 位于山上的最高处。宾 馆设有四间超大客房，能 容纳八位宾客，每一间 均带有卫浴及拥有私人 的外廊阳台。群山连 绵，从阳台眺望出去千 山一碧，还能俯瞰酒庄 15公顷的西拉（Shiraz） 和赤霞珠（Cabernet Sauvignon）葡萄园， 这里也是举办私人品酒会 的地方，通常由NortonKnight家庭的其中一员 来带领进行品酒。 客人在这里不受打扰，

Family-owned Rosby Wines is a 10-minute drive from the small, up-and-coming township of Mudgee in NSW’s central west. The winery has made the most of its secluded hilltop spot by popping a pretty guesthouse at its peak. The guesthouse sleeps eight people in four king rooms, each with ensuites and verandahs. The wrap around verandah opens up onto rolling green hills, overlooking the property’s 15 acres of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon grapes, and is where private wine tastings take place upon request. A member of the Norton-Knight family will often pop up to lead the tasting.

Guests are left on their own; to sit back and enjoy the open fireplace, gather eggs from the chook house or forage from the vegetable garden.

Here you’ll experience the truest form of paddock-to-plate dining.

A big basket of fresh eggs arrives with the breakfast hamper in case rummaging around in the chook house isn’t successful. Fresh bread, fruit, homemade jam and herbs from the garden are also left in the kitchen, which is big enough to facilitate food preparation for the masses. Gumboots are lined up at the front door just in case guests are keen to get some fresh air and head off for a walk, but there are also board games and wine available for an afternoon by the fireplace.

You’ll feel right at home at Rosby, and you won’t want to leave. rosbyguesthouse.com.au

能根据自己的喜好来选择 活动，包括悠闲地享受开 放式壁炉的温暖、亲自到 鸡场捡鸡蛋或到菜园采摘 蔬菜。不过万一您在鸡 场里捡蛋失败，早上酒 店除了为您奉上早餐篮之 外还会附上一篮子的新 鲜鸡蛋。厨房里的食材齐 备，新鲜面包、水果、自 家制果酱及各种来自菜园 的香草，分量足够一大 群人食用。 不仅是食材，宾馆还 为客人预备了棋牌游戏及 美酒，让客人坐在壁炉旁 一边玩乐一边享受午后时 光。如果想要出去走走呼 吸新鲜空气，一双双的胶 靴已在大门口列队等着为 您服务。

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黑羊旅馆，奥兰芝 位于新南威尔士州的中 部高地，奥兰芝是另 外一个澳大利亚产酒区 以出产凉爽气候酒而闻 名。建立多年的品酒会 及一年一度的美食美酒 节充分展示当地的出产 品。当地有几个家传户晓 的名字如 Phillip Shaw、 Bloodwood、Ross Hill 及 Cumulus，著名 于出产高质量的长相思 （Sauvignon Blanc）及 霞多丽（Chardonnay） 。不过附近还有许多比较 小型、家族经营的酒庄。 黑羊旅馆隐藏在一处 距离奥兰芝西部十公里 路程的灌木林地里，前 身是剪毛棚的地方今天 成为了一家温馨的B&B旅

馆。这座拥有着100年历 史的建筑在新租约之后便 来了一个大翻修，变得时 尚的同时也保留了许多原 有的元素，使之成为一处 让旅客探索澳大利亚羊毛 业的好地方。用作整理羊 毛的桌子放置在房间的中 央，桌子加上一块玻璃后 便成为一张餐桌；睡房以 羊毛篮点缀；羊槽里仍然 保留了一道隐蔽的出入口 通往室外；还有一部极具 收藏价值的Koerstz压毛 机。整座建筑主要是运用 外露木材及镀锌铁板这两 种原料所建成，五间套房 的暖气来自客厅的开放式 大壁炉。

The Black Sheep Inn, Orange Located in NSW’s Central Tablelands, Orange is another Australian wine region well known for producing cool-climate wines. Its chocolate makers are also building a name for themselves. Well-established wine trails and annual food and wine festivals showcase the local assets. Phillip Shaw, Bloodwood, Ross Hill and Cumulus are a few of the big names well-known for producing quality sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay, but there are also plenty of smaller, family-run wineries in the surrounding countryside. You just need to do a bit of exploring off the beaten track to find them Hidden in the bushland 10km west of Orange is the Black Sheep Inn, a cosy B&B housed in what was once a shearing shed. The 100-yearold building was given a new lease on life with a stylish overhaul that incorporated many of the original elements, making this a great spot for anyone interested in understanding more about the Australian wool industry. The wool sorting table sits in the centre of the room, with a large glass top converting it into the dining table. Wool baskets decorate bedrooms, the sheep chutes provide sneaky exits to the outside, and a Koerstz wool press is on display. There’s plenty of exposed timber and galvanised steel – the entire structure is made largely from these two materials. The five guest suites are heated by the lounge room’s large open fireplace. blacksheepinn.com.au

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酒庄优伶历史酒店，雅拉河谷 Chateau Yering Historic House 澳大利亚的酿酒业跟许多 澳大利亚的历史建筑一样 历史悠长及久负盛名，在 这家雅拉河谷的酒店内不 管是历史建筑还是酿酒， 两者都能找得到。首批葡 萄树在1837年由Ryrie兄 弟栽种，制造出该区第一 批年份酒。虽然酒窖的第 一批酒产自1840年代，可 是拥有32间客房的建筑， 其历史可追溯至1854年。 当年这里是社会名流出 没的地方，受众人爱戴。 酒店保留了原来的建筑 结构及许多原有的室内 设计，包括以人手制造的 砖头和澳大利亚香柏木 门，房子里也摆放了古董 四柱床、开放式壁炉、爪

足浴缸、翼状靠背扶手椅 以及各种画作。这座建筑 经几度易手，现在的合伙 人Ellie Milner亲自从世界 各地购买家具及各种设计 作品，务求让酒店保留该 建筑过去的历史风味。 此处的葡萄园在其 中一次易手中被细分出 来，现在成为了优伶牧 场（Yering Station）的 一部分。到酒店屡获殊荣 的Eleonore餐厅享用晚 餐前可以先到隔壁浅酌一 杯。

Hotel, Yarra Valley Australian winemaking has a history as long and prestigious as many of the country’s heritage buildings, and at this Yarra Valley property you’ll find both. The first vines were planted on the original estate back in 1837 when the Ryrie brothers planted the grapes that would produce the region’s first vintage.

The 32 room house dates back to 1854, although the cellar is of the 1840s vintage. In those days the property was the haunt of socialites; these days it has character in spades. The original structure and plenty of the interior features remain the same, including the handmade bricks and Australian cedar doors.

Inside are antique four-poster beds, open wood fireplaces, claw-foot bathtubs, wing-backed armchairs and plenty of paintings. The building has changed hands several times over its lifespan – current co-owner Ellie Milner personally sourced the furniture and design pieces from around the world in keeping with the building’s past.

The property’s original vineyards were subdivided during one of those sales and are now part of Yering Station. Pop next door for a tasting before dinner in the hotel’s award-winning Eleonore’s Restaurant. chateauyering.com.au

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古塔别墅，猎人谷

Tower Lodge, Hunter Valley

五星级的精品建筑最适合 举办小型婚宴、高端会议 及团体度假。拥有豪华装 潢，以各种饰品如航模和 喷泉为装饰的10间客房 及两间套房仅适用于独家 使用。 这座西班牙布道院风格 的建筑是古城堡酒庄的一 部分，去年由Hope家族 接手管理。房间围绕着一 个中心庭院而建，而房间 内的装饰全是由上一手的 业主Crowley家族留下来 的。来自他们私人收藏的 文物及艺术品摆设让房间 充满博物馆的气息，每一 间房间都有独特的主题。 总统套房内设有一张拥有 三百年历史的四柱大床、 东方套房的墙上挂了著名

Small weddings, high-end conferences and group getaways are best suited to a stay at this five-star boutique property. Available for exclusive use only, the 10 lodge rooms and two suites are sumptuously decorated with everything from model ships to water fountains.

The Spanish Mission-style property is part of the larger Tower Estate, which passed into the hands of the Hope family last year. Clustered around a central courtyard, the rooms were all decorated by previous owners, the Crowley family. Artefacts and art from their private collection lend the rooms a museum-like quality, each given a theme of its own. The Chairman’s Suite’s four-poster bed dates back 300 years; the Oriental Suite’s Picasso has pride of place on the wall, while its wine barrel plunge pool makes it one of the favourites among guests.

Next door, Tower Estate’s Roberts Restaurant Circa 1876 is open to the public and does a popular trade in fine dining from its restored yet rustic heritage building. However, guests at Tower Lodge have an additional treat with Restaurant NiNE, the property’s famous subterranean dining room. Located nine feet underground in what was once the property’s wine cellar, the space is used for decadent degustation dinners, receptions, or even just drinks with a difference.

Now in the hands of another big Australian wine family, the lodge can only get better. towerestate.com.au

画家毕加索的作品，还设 有酒桶小型游泳池，使之 成为最受客人欢迎的房间。 就在旁边的古城堡酒 庄Roberts Circa 1876餐 厅对公众开放，设在被 修复过却仍然富有乡村朴 素风情的历史建筑内，其 高级用餐受客人青睐。不 过，在古塔别墅留宿的客 人到该餐厅用餐有特别款 待，就是在位处餐厅地下 九英尺，著名的地下宴会 厅Restaurant NiNE就餐。 这里前身是个酒窖，是举 办奢华品酒晚宴、婚礼酒 会、甚至只是来次别具一 格的欢聚畅饮的极佳选择。 现在由另外一个澳大利亚 葡萄酒大家族来经营，这 里的一切只会更尽善尽美。

2013 2009

134 SHANGRI-LA

Its mythical namesake is a place of beauty and harmony, but Shangri-La in Yunnan province still manages to blur the lines between fact and fiction Words Constantina Pilatos

Photo by DALE de la REY/AFP/Getty Images

I

n the Western world, Shangri-La is top is by travelling in a cable car some 4,157 best known as the fictional place that metres, and if the steep plunge below the car was first described in James Hilton’s doesn’t make you feel dizzy, then the higher 1993 novel Last Horizon. In Hilton’s altitude certainly will. version, Shangri-La is a mythical, “You may start to feel light-headed,” says harmonious valley, enclosed by snow-capped Peter, our local tour guide. “If you do, you mountains, that acts as an escape from the war need to eat some chocolate so it gives you more going on in the outside world. energy.” Before he can finish this sentence we Hilton’s version of Shangri-La isn’t far take it as an open invitation to start munching off what the Eastern world knows it to be. on the pre-purchased Kit-Kat’s that were Previously called Zhongdian, Shangri-La is recommended for us to bring along. “But, if found in China’s Yunnan Province, nestled in you’re lucky, you may not feel anything and be the heart of the Hengduan Mountain Range. completely fine,” he says as we continue eating.

Its mid-sized city sits in front of a backdrop of It’s hard to believe that Shika Snow snow-capped mountains, as does most of the Mountain is only 5km west from Shangriregion. Wherever you look there isn’t one that La city. Within a couple-of-minutes drive the is too far from sight. It’s the kind of landscape landscape shifts from paved, city-like roads that’s so beautiful it to off-road paths that “IT’S THE KIND OF will make you gasp some five million in awe every time you tourists travel down L A N D S C A P E T H AT see it. But the view per year in order to IS SO BEAUTIFUL won’t be the only reach the mountain. thing to leave you With the cable cars IT WILL MAKE YOU short of breath. installed in 2008, Positioned 3,300 Shika Snow Mountain G A S P I N AW E ” metres above sea is still considered a level, the high altitude will have you heaving fairly new tourist attraction. “Before these cars for breath if you walk at a pace that is any were built locals used to walk the mountains,” faster than a light stroll, and that’s on ground. says Peter. “It would take them six to seven Most attractions in the area involve high hours just to reach the first cable car stop.” elevation and some sort of physical exertion Peter goes on to explain that there are making them not for the faint-hearted.

34 million Buddhists in Yunnan, so the area is surrounded by them. Locals believe there MOUNTAINS OF FAITH must be a balance of human beings and nature, If heights aren’t your thing, perhaps it’s best hence why they respect mountains and protect to bring a blindfold with you for a visit to them: they are part of their religion. They Shika Snow Mountain. The only way to the bring their yaks to roam and turn over soil,

SHANGRI-LA

i n s ea r c h of sh ang r i - la

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Clockwise from top, this page: SHIKA SNOW MOUNTAIN; CABLE CARS CARRYING PEOPLE UP THE MOUNTAIN; PRAYER FLAGS AT THE SUMMIT

and also visit the top where they tie coloured prayer flags that have scriptures and chants written on them.

The weather can be quite temperamental at the summit of the mountain – one minute it rains, the next there are gale-force winds – but if it permits you can walk along the wooden bridge that weaves its way across the top offering unparalleled views of the province.

You can also see hundreds of colourful prayer flags whipping about, tied to wooden poles.

TEMPLES OF GOLD While all natural wonders are considered holy to Buddhists, Yunnan’s most sacred spot lies

at its largest monastery. The ‘true ShangriLa’, as locals call it, is Songzanlin Monastery, a place where 920 monks reside and practise Buddhism. In 1679, the fifth Dalai Lama chose this place by divination. It doesn’t look too dissimilar to something an emperor would have lived in, or even one of Shangri-La’s hotel chains. Paid for through donations and built by the hands of locals, the eight temples took a decade to be completed.

Multiple buildings sit high atop a steep hill, accessed only by climbing over 100 steps.

It’s advised you take your time on the stairs, instead of rushing, as the altitude may take its toll on you. Each building is painted with red, off-white, and black, and is finished with realgold roofs and towering statues. When the sun shines it’s almost blinding to look at.

“The roof is where the first sunlight of the day hits the land,” says Peter. “If you wake up early, before six or seven in the morning depending on the time of year, then you can watch the sunrise and see that it hits the monastery first.”

This is one of the many carefully thought out reasons that the temple was built here during the time of the Qing Dynasty, mid 15th century. “It’s positioned between two mountains,” continues Peter. “In feng shui terms the mountain to the left stands as a dragon while the mountain to the right

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Holy site CBT Holiday’s ‘Dream of Shangri-La’ tour will introduce you to China’s holiest grounds, Shangri-La, and also cover surrounding cities Chengdu, Dali, Lijiang, Kunming and Guilin. cbtholidays.com.au

represents a tiger. All these elements, including the glistening lake in front of the hill, are considered to be good feng shui.”

Even if you’re not familiar with feng shui practices, there’s no denying there is a certain serenity to the place. There are no sounds of cars honking past or mobile phones ringing.

The stillness is broken only by the distant, soft rumbles of monks chanting in the temples.

When you get close to the colossal temples, monks, along with locals and visitors, make their way in and out. From the age of six or seven monks begin their education and continue to teach themselves Buddhism at home until they move to the monastery to live and study. Monks who reside here do so in a house with three to five others.

“Monks are free to wander around and decide how they live their life,” says Peter.

“They can spend their days in town leading meditation, or helping build a school or doing

The good life MONKS SPEND THEIR TIME PRAYING OR HELPING OUT FELLOW COMMUNITY MEMBERS

something to help community members.

They are only required in the temples during festivals where they come to chant and pray together.” You’ll almost always find a handful of monks inside the temples praying.

The true magnificence of these temples is found inside. They’re filled with ornate and intricate shrines surrounded with offerings from locals. With yak being the main animal in the region (they are the only animal that can survive the tough conditions), yak butter candles are common gifts to the gods. Another gift is money, which is filtered back into the temple in the form of golden statues. Standing at 22.5 metres tall – around six stories high – each masterpiece is dedicated to a different god within the Buddhist faith.

Sleep Paradise Hotel Located in the centre of the Shangri-La county, this resort’s location suits those travelling on business as well as those travelling for leisure.

It’s also close to the Old Town. dxgll.org

Dujinimi Hotel This luxury option makes travelling to Shangri-La easy. They’ll organise tours for you, shuttle services and transfers.

It also offers city views from each room. No. 32, Chang Zheng Alley

Banyan Tree Ringha A stone’s throw away from Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, this hotel offers a tranquil retreat from city life. Indulge in their spa treatments. banyantree.com/en/ cn-china-ringha

It will take you a couple of hours to make your way through each temple and have a turn at spinning one of the giant prayer wheels along the way. In saying so, much to our relief, while there is only one way in and out – that dreaded century of stairs – this time it’s downhill.

On our way out we walk through a group of monks. We can’t quite understand what they’re saying, but their laughs and smiles make us think they are happy. Looking back at the golden tip monastery in all its grandeur and the stunning landscape surrounding it, we can’t help but think that, if we lived here, we’d be pretty happy too. It’s not far off from what we know the fictional Shangri-La to be: an ethereal oasis. u

天才本色

羊毛标志（Woolmark）是国际羊毛局（The Woolmark Company）注册商标。羊毛标志在英国、爱尔兰、中国香港以及印度为认证商标。照片由Oliviero Toscani提供。

当穿上美丽诺羊毛时让我倍感舒适。 穿着它我可以做任何事、去任何方， 这种感觉很棒，我爱美丽诺。

以美丽诺羊毛非凡的天然属性，结合先进的技术创造出非常轻 质，柔软透气的运动服饰，保证在所有环境下都能提供高功能性 和高舒适性。纱线由Zegna Baruffa提供。

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TAKE A SHINE

群钻璀璨 瞬间爱上 GP芝柏表猫眼系列金桥陀飞轮腕表铺镶了308颗钻石，配以白色 珍珠贝母雕饰的优雅表盘。这款精美的机械腕表由174个零件组成， 以人手修饰、调教并组装。 Girard-Perregaux’s Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge dazzles with 308 diamonds and a gold framed, mother-ofpearl dial. The manually wound masterpiece contains 174 parts decorated, adjusted and assembled by hand. POA, girard-perregaux.com

NEWS

Most wanted

EVERYTHING LUXURY — FROM COLLECTORS ITEMS TO CUSTOMMADE DESIGNER PIECES

Downsize 英国著名品牌MULBERRY推出全新MINI LILY手袋，以迷你的样式延续了 MULBERRY经典晚装包的样式——品牌的经典锁扣、粒面皮革以及精致 链条肩带。

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The new Mini Lily – a smaller version of Mulberry’s iconic evening bag of the same name – has the brand’s signature postman’s lock closure and intricate leather and chain woven strap. $1,328, mulberry.com

BACK TO NATURE

OLE LYNGGAARD大自然系列的戒指，创作灵感来自于大自然，作品融 汇了大自然中的花茎及树枝的精华。 Taking a leaf from Mother Nature’s book Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen’s Nature rings are inspired by stems of flowers and twigs. Rings from $1,750, olelynggaard.com

Red hot 为迎接中国农历新年的到来，高级珠宝商KAILIS的THE ENLIGHTENMENT系列推出全新颜色——朱红色。此限量系 列以朱红色的GUILLOCHÉ扭索狀装饰配搭18克拉黄金及珍贵 的金黄色南海珍珠，系列中的每样单品只限量两件。 从2015年2月份起开始发售。 To celebrate the turn of the Chinese Lunar calendar Kailis has released a new colour to The Enlightenment Collection, Chinese Red. The limited edition range pairs Chinese Red Guilloché with 18 carat yellow gold and highly coveted Golden Sout Sea Pearls. Only two of each item will be released.

Available from February 2015, Accendo Collar Necklace$48,800, kailis.com

TWINKLE TOES

澳大利亚高端UGG羊毛靴品牌UGG AUSTRALIAN MADE 1974与施华洛世奇联 手打造独一无二的羊毛靴，每双靴子均镶有数以百计的施华洛世奇水晶。 Ugg Australian Made 1974 has collaborated with Swarovski to create a one-of-a-kind wooly wonder that is adorned with hundreds of Swarovski crystals. $15,000, uggsince1974.com.au

万宝龙大文豪系列推出全新限量书写工具——丹名 尔·笛福签字笔。笛福有写实小说之父之称，签字 笔上的细节呈现出其著名著作《鲁宾逊漂流记》里 各种的故事情节。

Jim Barry shares his expert opnion on how and when to drink a good glass of wine...

Jim Barry分享他对“如何”以及“何时”品 尝一杯美酒的专业意见……

Montblanc adds a new tool to its Writers Edition writing instruments. Inspired by the father of realistic fiction the details of the Limited Edition Daniel Defoe recall the story of Robinson Crusoe, as narrated by Defoe in his novel. From $1,040, montblanc.com.au

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Write on point

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Behind the scenes...

Winemakers are quite humble and modest in saying that the vines are what produce the great flavour, but really when drinking a wine you’re tasting the winemaker’s vision for the style and flavour of the wine.

幕后制作

酿酒师相当谦逊，虽然葡萄是酒主要的味道来源，可是 当您在喝酒时除了品尝酒本身的味道之外，其实还在品 尝酿酒师独有的风格，他们是佳酿的幕后功臣。

Match maker...

FEMME FATALE

位于悉尼，集合多个国际高端男装品牌的旗舰店HARROLDS，将于明年二月份迎来女装部，包括 奢华女装品牌纪梵希及巴尔曼。 Sydney’s go-to shop for the world’s leading luxury menswear labels, Harrolds, will welcome a womenswear store in February. They will stock luxury brands such as Givenchy and Balmain. harrolds.com

As a rule of thumb I always go by the weather.

If it’s terribly hot I’m going to go for fish and lighter dishes and match with riesling. If it’s winter or I’m in a cold climate my body is after something more substantial like red meat dishes that I would pair with red wine.

配对技巧

根据经验我一般都会视乎气候而定。如果是非常酷热的 天气我会选择鱼类或是比较清淡的菜色来配搭雷司令； 如果是冬天或是在寒冷的气候，我喜欢红肉这类味道较 重的菜色，那么我就会配搭红酒享用。

First taste...

Best of times

如果您是汽车和腕表的爱好者，那么宇舶表 与法拉利再次携手合作定能让您兴奋不已。 他们联手推出全新BIG BANG法拉利王金 （BIG BANG FERRARI KING GOLD）腕表， 限量典藏500只，为收藏家的必备表款。 If cars and watches are your passions, you’ll be happy to know that Hublot and Ferrari have collaborated, again, to create the Hublot Big Bang Ferrari King Gold. The timepiece is limited to 500 pieces and is a must-have for collectors. $47,200, hublot.com

You have to start off with a clean glass. You don’t want any smells to interrupt that of the wine.

Then make sure it’s the right temperature. A red should be served at 18 degrees celsius. Then it’s about concentrating. When smelling and tasting I recommend new tasters close their eyes so they don’t have any distractions. Focus, and then try to match it to something you know the taste and smell of. And, of course, enjoy.

初次品鉴

必须使用干净的玻璃杯子，因为您不希望有别的味道来 影响佳酿本身的味道。然后确保温度是对的，红酒应该 在摄氏18度时享用。再来就是专注，当新手在用鼻子嗅 酒香味及品尝时，我建议他们闭上眼睛，避免分心。要 集中，把所闻到及尝到的味道配对到您认识的东西上。 最后当然就是好好享受了。

NEWS

Fairytale romance FALL IN LOVE WITH DECADENT DETAILING

Dress, Vilshenko, $2,382, vilshenko.com

Dress, Needle & Thread, $588 missoni.com/au

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Hair comb, Dolce & Gabbana, $947, dolcegabbana.com

Headband, Eugenia Kim, $224, eugeniakim.com

Necklace, Valentino, $1,430, valentino.com/au

Earrings, Halleh, $2,312, halleh.com

Shoes, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,430, dolcegabbana.com

Dress, Dolce & Gabbana, $10,580, dolcegabbana.com

Shoes, Nicholas Kirkwood, $1,389, nicholaskirkwood.com

Headband, Rosantica, $596, rosantica.com

Shoes, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,949, dolcegabbana.com

Bag, Kotur, $640, koturltd.com

G O L D M E DA L WINNER

姓名:

电子邮件:

地址::

电话: 请寄给我 _____瓶 郵寄至酒庄地址: Sirromet Wines - 850 Mount Cotton

邮编:

Road, Mount Cotton, QLD 4165 Australia

NEWS

Tone it down

Knit, Michael Bastian, $1414, michaelbastiannyc.com

Jacket, Burberry, $2,550, au.burberry.com

DITCH THE COLOUR AND KEEP IT COOL

Sunglasses, Illesteva, $321, illesteva.com

Knit, Richard James, $833, richardjames.co.uk

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Headphones, Master & Dynamic, $513, masterdynamic.com

Cologne,Tom Daxon, $169, tomdaxon.com

Shoes, Loewe, $401, loewe.com Glasses, Cutler & Gross, $473, cutlerandgross.com

Bag, Nicholas Kirkwood, $473, nicholaskirkwood.com Pants, Polo Ralph Lauren, $241, ralphlauren.com

Shoes, John Lobb, $665, johnlobb.com

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Forever young See by Chloé's Pre-Fall 2015 collection channels a woman’s inner youth with flowy cuts, playful stripes and sheer lace

青春万岁 Chloé旗下的女装副牌See by Chloé2015早秋系列以摇曳的剪 裁、 俏皮多样的条纹及透薄的蕾 丝唤醒潜在女性之内的青春活力

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All looks available from See by Chloé 所有服饰单品在See by Chloé有售 chloe.com

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Full bloom

Pop into summer with Thom Browne’s flower-drenched Resort 2015 Collection exclusively available in Australia at Harrolds

花团锦簇

踏进夏季，Thom Browne为我们带 来百花绽放的2015夏季度假系列， 于Harrolds澳大利亚专门店独家发售

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Looks available exclusively from Harrolds 所有服饰单品在Harrolds有售 harrolds.com.au

Bian Jian Internationally renowned oil painter Bian Jian takes his latest show on the road and explains his love affair with painting the Giant Panda 国际著名油画家边健将在澳大利亚举办个人作品展，并且与我们分享他对绘画中国国宝大熊猫的情怀 Latest show...

This is my first exhibition abroad. I primarily work in Beijing and was invited to show my work in Sydney at the China Culture Centre.

For this show I have focused on nature and animals in their natural habitat, specifically Pandas as I have always aimed to combine western techniques with Chinese culture.

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breaking away from traditional styles and moving the industry forward.

作为一名艺术家…… 身为艺术家，经常打破框架去创作是非常重要的 一件事，而不只是人云亦云。许多新兴的艺术家一 直在打破传统的风格，不停推动艺术界往前进， 因此个性和独特性在中国艺术里是非常重要的。

最新作品展……

Why Giant Pandas?...

这是我的首个海外作品展，我在北京工作，受到悉 尼中国文化中心的邀请前来澳大利亚举办画展。 这次的展览我把焦点集中在大自然以及生活在自 然栖息地的动物上。特别是熊猫，因为我一直以来 旨在把西方的技巧跟中国文化融合在一起。

My work has become synonymous with pandas. What could be more Chinese than the Giant Panda? When I first started painting in a Western style, my instinct was to paint what I knew. They are China's national treasure and are so cute and fluffy; I've just always had a passion for them.

Their behaviour and expressions in their environment are unique and unlike most animals. I wanted to capture and show this.

Started painting...

I started when I was a child but have always studied in the Western style. I have been inspired by painting people and their expressions. Western oil painting puts very little focus on animals and pursues realism while traditional Chinese art looks mainly at nature, so I wanted to find a harmony between the two styles.

开始画画…… 我从小就开始画画，可是一直以来都是以西方的 方式来画。我喜欢画人物以及他们的表情。后来 我想来个革新，把中国艺术融合在我的创作中。 西方油画比较奉行现实主义而很少注重在动物 上，传统中国艺术比较专注在大自然景观， 所以我希望在两种风格之间取得平衡。

Life as an artist...

As an artist, what is crucial is to always break through expectations and to create and not just follow others.

Individuality and uniqueness is important in Chinese art as a lot of new artists are

为什么是大熊猫？ 熊猫已成为我作品的代表。没有什么比大熊猫更 能代表中国。当我刚开始以西方形式来画画的时 候，我的直觉是画一些认识的东西。熊猫是中国 的国宝，毛茸茸的十分可爱，我对它们就是有一 种热情。它们在自己的环境里的行为和表情是独 一无二的，有别于许多其他的动物，我想把这一 切记录下来，让后展示给大家看。

Sydney art scene...

This is my first time in Sydney and, in fact, my first time abroad. We've found many Westerners don't fully appreciate the traditional Chinese art style but I'm hoping my marriage of Western and Chinese styles will help educate the audience's perception of Chinese art and create a cultural exchange between China and the rest of the world.

悉尼的艺术世界…… 这是我第一次来到悉尼，其实应该说也是我首次出 国。我们发觉有许多西方人不是很懂欣赏中国传统 艺术，不过我希望透过融合西方和中国艺术风格的 作品能帮助教育读者对中国艺术的认知，并且能建 立中国及世界各地之间的文化交流。

Beijing art scene...

Visitors to China should definitely check out the Art Gallery of China to see its substantial collection of historical work and different styles. If you are interested in contemporary Chinese art, a visit to 798 art district is a must; this is the place to go for everything up and coming in the scene.

北京的艺术世界…… 到中国游览的游 客必定要到访中国美 术馆，看看他们收集的大量历史著 作及不同风格的作品。如 果您 对 中国现代美术有兴趣，那一定要 到访北 京798艺 术区，这 里能 找到一切关于现代及未来艺 术世界的全新面貌。

Photograph by Trent van der Jagt

L AST WORD

MY HIGHER LIFE

The Sydney Opera House Tour

Celebrating Year of the Sheep 2015 悉尼歌剧院庆祝羊年大吉 2015

We invite you to take the official Lunar New Year tour of Sydney Opera House World Heritage listed site Personalised prosperity digital photo card to share good wishes with family and friends Lucky red envelope gift from Sydney Opera House If you can’t join us for the Lunar New Year, our Sydney Opera House guided Mandarin tours are available throughout the year.

诚意邀请您于农历新年间参加悉尼歌剧院官方导游。 联合国教科文组织世界遗产 个人数码照片卡 幸运红包礼品 如果不能于农历新年间前来， 悉尼歌剧院观光导游(普通话团)全年提供。 Book online and save 10%

SY D N E Y O P E R A H O U S E P R I N C I PA L PA RT N E R

B oo k at t h e B ox O f fice o r vi s it 网上预定可获九折优惠亲临悉尼歌剧院售票处现场购票或在线预订 syd n eyo p e ra h o u se .co m/to u rs