The Boutique Magazine June 2020

JUNE 2020

ISSUE 115

Business as unusual Retailing in a COVID-19 world The great SS20 stock debate Reopening checklist Fashion face masks

UK Customer Services 0141 204 0699 fashion@premierfashions.co.uk franklyman.com

EDITOR’S LETTER EDITOR Gemma Ward gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk PRINT AND ONLINE SALES Julie Neill – julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Beccy Wells – beccy@bpmedialtd.co.uk Catherine Ridings – cath@bpmedialtd.co.uk Tel 01795 509106 CREDIT FACILITIES MANAGER Natalie Murray – creditcontrol@cimltd.co.uk Tel 01795 509103 PUBLISHERS Julie Neill, Beccy Wells MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Neill © 2020 Boutique Professional Media Ltd, The Goods Shed, Jubilee Way, Faversham, Kent ME13 8GD. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to Boutique Professional Media. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

ON THE COVER:

Image courtesy of City Goddess; Tel: 0208 597 2744 Tradegala.com

The new ormal

B

oris Johnson has finally delivered the news we’ve all been waiting for: nonessential shops can reopen this month. The official date, Monday 15 June, is two weeks later than anticipated. However, it does mean there’s light at the end of the tunnel for independent fashion retailers.

Of course, there’s a lot to do before boutiques can welcome their customers back inside. The government has set out a 33-page guidance document for non-essential retailers, which I’m sure you’ve already read. Our COVID-secure checklist, starting on page 20, is a streamlined version of what’s required.

But there are still some unanswered questions and retailers are moving forward with trepidation. As Steve Cochrane, owner of Psyche in Middlesbrough, told me: “I think the government advice has been quite vague, but then they are making it up as they go along just like we are.”

While indies will be eager to start trading again, some financial experts are cautioning against reopening too early. Natasha Frangos, partner at London accountancy firm Haysmacintyre, says business owners must carefully consider whether doing so now is financially viable. She also warns that failing to put the correct plans into place could affect relations with staff and customers. Read more on page 16.

The question of how to solve the

excess inventory problem is another concern for retailers. While the expectation is that fast fashion retailers will heavily discount immediately, boutiques will need to proceed with caution to avoid damaging the future of their brand.

Some industry insiders are calling for indies to hold their nerve on early discounting. Fashion agent Tor Stockdale says on page 42: “For years I’ve been asked by retailers: ‘Why can’t we have summer stock to sell in the summer and winter merchandise in the winter?’ Now you have that opportunity.” Joanna Edwards, founder of the eponymous agency, agrees: “Now is the time to be bold, stay strong and believe in your merchandise,” she says. Don’t miss her article on page 40.

Gemma Ward, Editor Follow us on Twitter @boutiquemag and Instagram @boutiquemaguk

DOWN TO BUSINESS

The big reopening Planning to reoPen your boutique this month? here’s the streamlined version of the government’s latest guidance

F

ashion retailers are preparing to reopen their bricks-andmortar stores this month following 12 weeks of enforced closures. But how will the ‘new normal’ affect the highly personal boutique shopping experience? Here’s all the government’s main safely measures you need to consider before you reopen your doors…

Risk assessment

All retailers need to carry out a risk assessment before reopening. The government has published some interactive guides online including a template to simplify this process (visit Hse.gov.uk/simple-health-safety/risks/ steps-needed-to-manage-risk.htm).

Business owners will need to identify any potential hazards, assess the risks and control the risks. Hazards could be anything that may cause customers or staff harm, so in this case it could be contaminated surfaces or anything that makes social distancing impossible.

Once the hazards have been identified, retailers must then decide who might be harmed, what you can do to control the risks and who will carry out the action. The government states that business owners aren’t expected to eliminate all of the risks, but will need to do everything ‘reasonably practical’ to protect people from harm.

According to the guidelines, employers should regularly review the controls they’ve put into place to ensure they’re working. Retailers are advised to share the results of the risk assessment with staff and consider publishing it online, which is a requirement for those employing 20 | boutique. | june 2020

Covid-secure checklist ✓ Carry out a risk assessment or enlist an external specialist ✓ Reassign roles to extremely vulnerable and clinically vulnerable staff members so they can work from home or be allocated the safest on-site roles ✓ Deep clean the shop floor before reopening ✓ Define the number of customers that can reasonably enter at one time ✓ Install signage or appoint a staff member to maintain customer numbers ✓ Appoint a dedicated entrance and exit, if possible ✓ Create a one-way system to help customers stay two metres apart ✓ Place a hand sanitising station at the entrance of the store ✓ Quarantine clothing and shoes that have been tried on but not purchased for 72 hours ✓ Keep fitting rooms closed or clean after each use if offering them is essential ✓ Thoroughly clean the store throughout the day and after closing, paying attention to touch-points and high traffic areas ✓ Consider installing divider screens to help keep customers and staff safe when social distancing isn’t possible

DOWN TO BUSINESS over 50 staff members. Employers can download and print a Staying COVID-19 secure in 2020 poster (visit Gov.uk) to show that they’ve followed safety guidelines.

Safeguarding employees

No employee “is obliged to work in an unsafe work environment,” so it’s vital that you take measures to make your boutique as safe as possible. Clearly, it’s difficult for retail staff who usually work on the shop floor to work from home, but those who are extremely vulnerable with specific underlying health conditions will need to be extra cautious. As an employer, you should help anyone falling into this group to work from home, which may mean assigning them with an alternative role. For those in the clinically vulnerable category (e.g. asthmatics and pregnant women), employers should help them take extra care in social distancing while they’re at work or take the safest possible roles onsite if they can’t work from home.

browsing, if at all possible.”

When it comes to giving product or styling advice to customers, the government says retailers should have clearly designated positions for staff to provide assistance while maintaining social distance. Some retailers have installed clear screen dividers and sneeze guards on payment desks to help safeguard staff and customers.

Social distancing

Cleaning and fitting rooms

As we know, customers and staff need to be able to social distance once inside the retail environment.

It’s up to retailers to define and limit the number of customers that can reasonably enter, taking the total floor space into account. If your store layout permits, adding a separate entrance and exit as well as a one-way system through the shop floor can help ease potential congestion.

Shoppers are now accustomed to queuing outside of essential shops if it’s too busy to enter, so adding signs or employing a dedicated staff member to greet customers should be used to help maintain the number of people inside.

Customers should be encouraged to use hand sanitiser as they enter the shop to reduce the risk of transmission when touching products while they are browsing. Some retailers are planning on setting up sanitising stations either outside or in the entrance of their stores. The government’s advice says customers should also be encouraged to “avoid handling products while

Before reopening, retail owners will need to ensure their shop floors are thoroughly cleaned. Once customers start returning, frequent cleaning practises will need to be added to the daily routine, focusing on high traffic areas and touch points. Some retailers are planning on closing an hour earlier each day so they can carry out a deep clean.

Fitting rooms are a concern for fashion retailers, as the government says they “should be closed wherever possible given the challenges in operating them safely.” There is a part in the guidance that states fitting rooms should be cleaned after each use “when they are essential.” However, it only mentions supporting key workers buying critical clothing as an example.

Quarantining stock

The question of what to do with handled or returned stock has been widely debated by retailers.

According to the government’s guidance, customers and staff should

Anne Wright, Young Ideas “From a business perspective, we are anxious to start trading again as soon as possible. However, we’re also mindful of our responsibilities for the safety of our team and customers. We recognise it’s going to be a challenging environment to provide safe and effective sales and customer service. Like everyone else, we’ll be introducing a wide range of extra measures including separate entrances and exits, control of the number of people in store at any one time, sanitiser stations and extra hygiene procedures. We will introduce an appointments system to help with managing numbers of people in the store while allowing access on standby subject to capacity. We will initially be open for slightly shorter hours to allow extra time for cleaning and sanitising. We will be asking customers to touch stock as little as possible and will offer changing room facilities, but we’ll ask customers to prioritise what they’d like to try. Garments that have been tried on or returned will be steamed and quarantined. We will have gloves and masks available for staff and customers if required, but these will be optional.” june 2020 | boutique. | 21

SHOP TALK

“I think customers are now more than ready to get out and into shops. We’re all craving some face-toface communication and boutiques are the perfect place to provide that human connection” Fashion agent Joanna edwards answers today’s biggest retail conundrum: should boutiques discount their ss20 stock?

“W

hen fashion indies finally reopen this month, we’re far from certain about how shoppers will react. They could be eager to treat themselves and buy fashion again. On the other hand, they could be cautious about what they spend on ‘non essential’ goods.

“Inevitably, there’s been a lot of talk among retailers and brands over the past 12 weeks about what to do with SS20 stock. The answer to that question is a highly complex one and is completely personal to each boutique.

Discounting decisions

“Clearly, deciding whether to discount stock or not depends on the retailer and the brands it carries. There are some boutiques that will need to discount straight away, because they sadly will not survive otherwise. For these businesses, slashing prices by 40 per cent will provide the muchneeded cash flow they need. If this isn’t

necessary to keep your business afloat, I think you can be bold about how you proceed.

“Often retailers are far too quick to go into sale in a normal season, regardless of an unprecedented pandemic. Fashion boutiques sell artisan and premium collections that have a longer shelf life than we perhaps give them credit for. Therefore, they don’t need to align themselves with mainstream discount sales. The selling seasons have been skewed for a long time: it’s become the norm to reduce everything to half price far too early.

Most fashion retailers go into sale in June when the UK is yet to hit high summer and December when winter’s coldest days are still to come. It’s been led by the multiples and department stores and it doesn’t work. This issue has just been highlighted even futher by the coronavirus crisis.

“Some boutique owners will see others discounting and feel they have to price match. I would remind everyone to be mindful of other

retailers. We’ve all got to shift stock and we all want the cogs to start turning so we can make much-needed sales. The last thing we all want is to get into price wars.

“I understand your fears that if you don’t discount straight away you might lose some sales. But remember: once that size 12 dress has sold online at half price, it’s gone. There won’t be hundreds of that particular style in a size 12 on offer at half price. And once the initial discounting wave has ended online, perhaps it will dull down altogether. Perhaps then you can focus on serving your customers and giving them the boutique experience that sets your boutique apart. Hopefully your customers will appreciate your expertise without chasing a cheaper price.

“Maybe this is also the time to reconsider the brands you stock.

Those retailers selling the same labels as competitors are more likely to be forced into discounting. If you invest in more individual collections

40 | boutique. | June 2020

JUNE 2020 | boutique. | 3

www.capriclothingonline.com • sales@capriclothing.co.uk • Tel: 0203 819 0819

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CONTENTS

JUNE 2020 | boutique. | 5

Fashion Fix

ESSENTIAL NEwS

ARTEM BELIAIKIN ON UNSPLASH

Fashion indies finalise reopening plans following the government’s ‘COVID-secure’ guidance

F

ashion indies around the UK are preparing to reopen their doors following 12 weeks of coronavirus-imposed

closures.

Retailers are expected to make their stores “COVID-secure” before opening following new guidelines set out by the government. The recently published 33-page guidance details measures businesses should take to meet the necessary social distancing and hygiene standards (turn to page 20 for our reopening checklist).

“Shops now have the time to implement this guidance before they reopen,” Boris Johnson said during the announcement. “This will ensure that there is no doubt about the next steps they must take.” He added that while the majority of business owners will want to keep staff and customers safe, the government will have the power to enforce compliance if required.

The government has also introduced a £50 million Reopening High Streets

Safely Fund. Local authorities have already been allocated the funding on a per capita basis for new signs, street markings and temporary barriers.

Indies have described how they’ve been using the guidance to create a safe retail environment. Many will be operating at reduced hours so they have time to clean at the end of each say. Some will also offer an appointment-only service to reduce in-store customer numbers.

Steve Cochrane MBE, owner of Psyche in Middlesbrough, says he has been carrying out an “extensive remodelling of his stores’ interiors” following an audit by an external company. “We are installing till screens and placing distancing markers on the floors, plus there will be a one-way system with an entrance and exit,” he says. “It’s quite a big cost to make the store look cluttered but safety has got to be paramount.”

Anne Wright, owner of Young Ideas in Derbyshire, says she is “comfortable

with the guidelines” and will be reviewing its measures regularly: “Like everyone else, we will be introducing a wide range of extra measures. Part of this includes asking customers to touch stock as little as possible. We will have changing room facilities, but we’ll ask customers to prioritise what they try on. Anything that has been tried on or returned will be steamed and quarantined.”

But for some fashion indies, there are concerns that focusing too heavily on safety measures could frighten customers: “I’m approaching reopening with some trepidation as we are all stepping into new territory,” says Sarah Simonds, owner of Artichoke in Swaffham. “The balance between keeping our shops a relaxed and fun environment and our customers safe is going to be a challenge. However, I feel that if we look and behave as if we are on a COVID-19 ward our customers will stay at home and continue to shop online.”

JUNE 2020 | boutique. | 7

FASHION FIX

British firm launches quality glass divider screens for fashion retailers Clothing sales nosedive in April as retail sales experience record fall Clothing sales in the UK plummeted by -50.2 per cent in April, reveal the latest figures from the Office for National Statistics (ONS). Overall retail sales fell by a record -18.1 per cent following a -5.2 per cent drop in March when the UK’s lockdown measures were first introduced.

Conversely, online shopping as a proportion of all retail reached a record high of +30.7 per cent.

While the ONS figures are sobering for retailers, the Fashion

Retail Academy‘s Lee Lucas says clothing sales could recover: “High street retailers have never previously experienced a fall so dramatic, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel,” he says. “With summer holidays abroad not going ahead, fashion retailers could be the unexpected winners from the biggest staycation the UK has ever seen. After months of lockdown, customers will be relishing the chance to enjoy familiar activities again.”

Poll reveals strong consumer support for independent businesses during coronavirus lockdown The majority of UK shoppers (93 per cent) think it’s important to support local independents during the coronavirus crisis, reveals new research. The findings have been taken from a poll of 500 consumers conducted at the beginning of May by

LINDA GERBEC ON UNSPLASH 8 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

ActLocal.co and VCCP Ignite.

Millennials and Baby Boomers are the most enthusiastic supporters of small businesses, with 70 per cent of those aged 25-34 and 68 per cent of over 65s agreeing it is ‘extremely important to support indies.’

“Brits young and old are getting behind the national effort to keep our local high streets and businesses intact,” says Lars Kroijer, founder, ActLocal.

“By offering a free service for businesses to generate crucial additional income through their loyal customer bases, I hope ActLocal can make a real difference in helping our SMBs in their fight for survival.”

A range of new quality glass divider screens have launched for fashion indies preparing to reopen their stores. Created by South England wet room specialist Impey, the bespoke Connect screens feature 6mm tempered safety glass encased in an aluminium frame. Retailers can install the screens easily to shop counters to provide a safer environment for staff and customers. Engineered and produced with precision, the screens provide a sturdier and sleeker solution than their Perspex counterparts.

Impey’s Natalie Paley comments: “A safe workplace environment is imperative in these difficult times.

We hope that this new product range will help overcome some of the challenges currently associated with reopening businesses.”

Prices start from £168.33 + VAT each and screens will be delivered within four weeks. Find out more at Impeyshowers.com

Easy Care Linen Blend

Offers on current Summer stock now available.

Speak to Emma on 01452 207 766 to find out more and hear our recommendations. orders@lilyandmeclothing.com Boutique FP May.indd 1

lilyandme.com

+44(0) 1452 207 766 21/05/2020 14:52

FASHION FIX

London Fashion Week to launch digitally for the first time The British Fashion Council (BFC) is merging all London Fashion Weeks into one gender-neutral online platform for the next year. This month will see the launch of the first digitalonly menswear and womenswear showcase, which will be available to both trade and consumer audiences via Londonfashionweek.co.uk. Bringing the fashion community together in one place online, it will host exclusive multimedia content from designers, creatives, artists and brand partners, enabling collaboration and bringing together fashion, culture and technology.

The BFC’s Caroline Rush comments: “By creating a cultural fashion week

platform, we are adapting digital innovation to best fit our needs today and something to build on as a global showcase for the future. Designers will be able to share their stories, and for

those that have them, their collections, with a wider global community. We hope there will be inspiration in bucket loads. It’s what British fashion is known for.”

Harrogate Fashion Week postponed until January as organisers plan to “come back stronger next year” Harrogate Fashion Week organisers have announced the event’s next instalment is postponed until 31 January - 1 February 2021. Its SS21 edition, originally due to take place in July, has now been cancelled following the coronavirus crisis in the UK. The pandemic has forced many event organisers to call off shows scheduled for this year.

Directors Sarah Moody and Wendy Adams were initially considering running the show from 23-24 August. However, after consulting with exhibitors, they have decided to cancel this summer’s show and “concentrate on having a successful event next year.”

“It has been a difficult decision and one that has not been taken lightly as Harrogate Fashion Week wants to support the industry through these difficult times,” they both commented in a statement. “For the brands to 10 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

invest in shows when it is going to be an extremely short and difficult season, with some shops not wanting to buy or attend, plus the fact that to date the government have not said it is safe to hold trade shows, has made us come to the sad conclusion

to miss a season. We would like to thank everyone for their continued support and we will be back bigger and stronger next year.”

The show’s next edition will take place from Sunday 31 January Monday 1 February 2021.

Boutique Runway Virtual howr m Launching July 2020

Contact julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk for more information

PROMOTION

Twist on a classic

Air and Grace has reworked its popular Alto high top trainers with khaki camo print leather uppers, bright orange laces and flashes of gold metallic details. £79.60; Tel: 0777 933 2345 Airandgrace.com

Back to nature

British brand From My Mother’s Garden offers a colourful line-up of limited edition kimonos and robes that capture the vibrancy of nature.

The boutique-exclusive range is the brainchild of Dorset indie owner Penny Callaghan and boasts stunning designs made with environmentally responsible fabrics and production techniques.

Tel: 01308 426 517 Frommymothersgarden.co.uk

Treasure trove

STYLISH BUYS TO BRIGHTEN UP YOUR BOUTIQUE

Two for one

Scream Pretty’s Double Huggie Hoop Stud Earrings create the illusion of two piercings in each ear. The twin hoops are crafted with sterling silver with rhodium or 18ct gold plating, while one side is paved with a row of dazzling cubic zirconia stones. £11.50; Tel: 01753 424 160 Screampretty.com

Sustainably sourced Filling a gap in the market for sustainable and affordable jewellery, Capri Clothing’s line of necklaces are hand crafted by small artisans in Indonesia and India using traditional techniques. Its creators work with materials that are both ecologically sustainable and locally sourced, enlisting natural resources such as leftover wood from furniture, discarded coconut shells and recycled glass. From £7; Tel: 0203 819 0819 Capriclothingonline.com 12 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

Sunny daze

Perfect for relaxed summer days, Lily and Me’s fine knit cotton Meadow Jumper looks great styled with its woven viscose Flora Midi Skirt in the brand’s pretty Daisy Print. Both pieces now £10.50 each, Lily and Me is currently offering wholesale customers a 30 per cent discount on its SS20 range; Tel: 01452 207 766 Lilyandme.com

www.pausecafe.fr

Wishing you a successful re-opening with Pause cafĂŠ, light at the end of the tunnel.

Contact: Pierre & Bhavna at Leap N Link Ltd. T:: 0161 713 1803 E:: info@leapnlink.co.uk W:: www.leapnlink.com

A PURE NATU RAL F IB RE KNI TWEAR B RAND We are Paul James - a luxury, Leicestershire-based knitwear manufacturer. We strive to deliver the purest knitwear experience, which is why we shun man-made fibres, instead using only 100% natural fibre yarns in the production of our knitwear.

Contact us to request our line sheets.

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Down to Business A helping hAnd for fAshion indies

Retailing now

JeshooTs.CoM on UnsplAsh

F

rom financial planning to implementing new safety measures, we unpick all the latest guidance for retailers on reopening their stores‌ JUne 2020 | boutique. | 15

BUSINESS

Should you reopen your boutique? anastasIa chepInska on unsplash

IndIes need to assess the fInancIal feasIbIlIty of reopenIng before they rush Into brIcks-and-mortar tradIng, says haysmacIntyre’s natasha frangos

A

s lockdown restrictions begin to ease in the UK, an end to the COVID-19 crisis period is in many ways coming into sight. Businesses are now considering how they might be able to return to operating as close to ‘normal’ as possible, for which careful planning needs to take place. For those in the fashion and retail sectors, the situation is already complicated with the need to keep both customers and staff safe under COVIDsecure guidelines. But for boutique businesses, where teams are smaller and space and resources are restricted, the reopening of physical stores may come with a number of practical and financial issues.

Figuring out financials

Although government support has 16 | boutique. | June 2020

indeed eased the pressure for retail businesses, cash remains a major concern. Businesses have taken steps to stem the outflow of cash as much as possible, making use of the now extended Job Retention Scheme, or applying for business rate grants. But many businesses, particularly smaller independent retailers, are still faced with a struggle to apply for loans and have been hit by severe delays to the much-needed boost hitting their bank accounts.

Many small retailers should therefore carefully consider their cashflow and the financial feasibility of reopening before making plans to do so. There are a number of additional factors and subsequent costs that will need to be considered as a result of social distancing measures: limiting the number of customers in a store at

any one time; ensuring thorough and regular deep cleaning; or even asking customers to avoid touching products.

Additionally, opening hours may need to be reduced, so as to ensure that stores are appropriately prepared before customers arrive and cleaned after closing.

Moreover, with footfall far from a guarantee, especially in formerly busy tourist hot spots, the cash inflow from reopening physical shops is by no means set in stone. With this in mind, operators may have to ask themselves if now really is a sensible time to reopen.

Many stores have already taken this crisis as an opportunity to drive forward their online offerings and digital platforms and there is certainly a case to continue these efforts. A return to normality may still be

Carol C Collections wishes you all luck in the ‘new normal’ daily operations.

We are here for advice, questions, guidance… or just a catch up - at all times – our office is always open to support you.

Our Spring Summer 21 Collections will be launching in July as usual.

We are already taking appointment bookings, and will be confirming sales events very soon!

From our family business, to our loyal family of customers.

Carol C Collections (Image: FOIL Spring Summer 21)

0800 612 9009 www.carolccollections.com

BUSINESS

eVGenI TCHeRKASSKI On unSPLASH

some time away, so boutiques should continue to maintain their connections with existing customers via online platforms.

Regardless of whether or not the decision to reopen is made, businesses should also factor in issues relating to stock. For those who rely upon accessing stock that is currently being held internationally, complications may arise as different countries remain in different stages of lockdown with varying guidelines in place. This could result in delays to receiving orders or similarly could affect shipping of sales internationally. Additionally, having been closed for a long period time, many may now have excess stock from previous seasons left over and might consider sample sales to clear room for new items.

The future of the physical store

In the longer term, and despite what many may say, the resilient local high 16 | boutique. | June 2020

street will emerge on the other side of this crisis. Having been kept inside for months now, consumers may be craving the ability to touch and feel physical products more than ever before.

In fact, the trend of experiencebased shopping may well have been accelerated by the current situation and consumers will value workshops and the personal shopping experiences they find in boutique stores. What’s more, consumers will want to engage most with the brands that matter to them, whether this be those that have focused efforts on improving sustainability of products or perhaps those who have demonstrated good ethics throughout the most difficult periods. The sense of community has been rallied and shoppers will be eager to play their part in helping local and ethical businesses survive.

While managing consumer interests will be key, ensuring that staff members are kept safe and keeping

an open channel of communication to address any concerns will be vital as shops plan to reopen. After all, consumers’ decisions could well be swayed by how well a business looks after and values its staff.

Despite all the buzz around shops reopening this month, it is vital that smaller fashion stores proceed with caution. A number of logistical and financial factors will need to be considered carefully – and rushing into reopening could affect relations with consumers and staff in the future.

By reviewing whether it is financially viable to reopen your store immediately and carefully planning out a strategy to reopen with safe social distancing guidelines in place, boutiques can ascertain the best possible plan for their return to business as usual.

Natasha Frangos is partner and head of creative, media and technology at London accountancy firm Haysmacintyre

Fashion is our family.

James Lakeland is always loving Fashion, loving the independent fashion community.

We are in this together...

James

www.jameslakeland.net

DOWN TO BUSINESS

The big reopening Planning to reoPen your boutique this month? here’s the streamlined version of the government’s latest guidance

F

ashion retailers are preparing to reopen their bricks-andmortar stores this month following 12 weeks of enforced closures. But how will the ‘new normal’ affect the highly personal boutique shopping experience? Here’s all the government’s main safely measures you need to consider before you reopen your doors…

Risk assessment

All retailers need to carry out a risk assessment before reopening. The government has published some interactive guides online including a template to simplify this process (visit Hse.gov.uk/simple-health-safety/risks/ steps-needed-to-manage-risk.htm).

Business owners will need to identify any potential hazards, assess the risks and control the risks. Hazards could be anything that may cause customers or staff harm, so in this case it could be contaminated surfaces or anything that makes social distancing impossible.

Once the hazards have been identified, retailers must then decide who might be harmed, what you can do to control the risks and who will carry out the action. The government states that business owners aren’t expected to eliminate all of the risks, but will need to do everything ‘reasonably practical’ to protect people from harm.

According to the guidelines, employers should regularly review the controls they’ve put into place to ensure they’re working. Retailers are advised to share the results of the risk assessment with staff and consider publishing it online, which is a requirement for those employing 20 | boutique. | june 2020

Covid-secure checklist ✓ Carry out a risk assessment or enlist an external specialist ✓ Reassign roles to extremely vulnerable and clinically vulnerable staff members so they can work from home or be allocated the safest on-site roles ✓ Deep clean the shop floor before reopening ✓ Define the number of customers that can reasonably enter at one time ✓ Install signage or appoint a staff member to maintain customer numbers ✓ Appoint a dedicated entrance and exit, if possible ✓ Create a one-way system to help customers stay two metres apart ✓ Place a hand sanitising station at the entrance of the store ✓ Quarantine clothing and shoes that have been tried on but not purchased for 72 hours ✓ Keep fitting rooms closed or clean after each use if offering them is essential ✓ Thoroughly clean the store throughout the day and after closing, paying attention to touch-points and high traffic areas ✓ Consider installing divider screens to help keep customers and staff safe when social distancing isn’t possible

DOWN TO BUSINESS over 50 staff members. Employers can download and print a Staying COVID-19 secure in 2020 poster (visit Gov.uk) to show that they’ve followed safety guidelines.

Safeguarding employees

No employee “is obliged to work in an unsafe work environment,” so it’s vital that you take measures to make your boutique as safe as possible. Clearly, it’s difficult for retail staff who usually work on the shop floor to work from home, but those who are extremely vulnerable with specific underlying health conditions will need to be extra cautious. As an employer, you should help anyone falling into this group to work from home, which may mean assigning them with an alternative role. For those in the clinically vulnerable category (e.g. asthmatics and pregnant women), employers should help them take extra care in social distancing while they’re at work or take the safest possible roles onsite if they can’t work from home.

browsing, if at all possible.”

When it comes to giving product or styling advice to customers, the government says retailers should have clearly designated positions for staff to provide assistance while maintaining social distance. Some retailers have installed clear screen dividers and sneeze guards on payment desks to help safeguard staff and customers.

Social distancing

Cleaning and fitting rooms

As we know, customers and staff need to be able to social distance once inside the retail environment.

It’s up to retailers to define and limit the number of customers that can reasonably enter, taking the total floor space into account. If your store layout permits, adding a separate entrance and exit as well as a one-way system through the shop floor can help ease potential congestion.

Shoppers are now accustomed to queuing outside of essential shops if it’s too busy to enter, so adding signs or employing a dedicated staff member to greet customers should be used to help maintain the number of people inside.

Customers should be encouraged to use hand sanitiser as they enter the shop to reduce the risk of transmission when touching products while they are browsing. Some retailers are planning on setting up sanitising stations either outside or in the entrance of their stores. The government’s advice says customers should also be encouraged to “avoid handling products while

Before reopening, retail owners will need to ensure their shop floors are thoroughly cleaned. Once customers start returning, frequent cleaning practises will need to be added to the daily routine, focusing on high traffic areas and touch points. Some retailers are planning on closing an hour earlier each day so they can carry out a deep clean.

Fitting rooms are a concern for fashion retailers, as the government says they “should be closed wherever possible given the challenges in operating them safely.” There is a part in the guidance that states fitting rooms should be cleaned after each use “when they are essential.” However, it only mentions supporting key workers buying critical clothing as an example.

Quarantining stock

The question of what to do with handled or returned stock has been widely debated by retailers.

According to the government’s guidance, customers and staff should

Anne Wright, Young Ideas “From a business perspective, we are anxious to start trading again as soon as possible. However, we’re also mindful of our responsibilities for the safety of our team and customers. We recognise it’s going to be a challenging environment to provide safe and effective sales and customer service. Like everyone else, we’ll be introducing a wide range of extra measures including separate entrances and exits, control of the number of people in store at any one time, sanitiser stations and extra hygiene procedures. We will introduce an appointments system to help with managing numbers of people in the store while allowing access on standby subject to capacity. We will initially be open for slightly shorter hours to allow extra time for cleaning and sanitising. We will be asking customers to touch stock as little as possible and will offer changing room facilities, but we’ll ask customers to prioritise what they’d like to try. Garments that have been tried on or returned will be steamed and quarantined. We will have gloves and masks available for staff and customers if required, but these will be optional.” june 2020 | boutique. | 21

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Steve Taylor, Fab Frocks “The government’s guidelines are very broad. It must be difficult with such a range of shops to deal with, but saying fitting rooms should be closed where possible is just not feasible for a boutique, especially an occasion one like mine. But we will of course follow the guidelines where practical and our priority will always be the safety of our customers and staff. I will be doing appointment only and opening just three days a week to start off with.

The one area of concern is the need to quarantine clothing that has been tried on for 72 hours. All I expect is a level playing field and at no stage have supermarkets and other open businesses been quarantining items that have been picked up and put down by customers, so why boutiques and fashion businesses?” be encouraged to wash their hands or use sanitiser to minimise cross contamination risk when touching products. The government says retailers can also limit customer handling of merchandise by using different display methods, signage or rotating high-touch stock.

Items that have been returned, donated or extensively handled – for example, clothes or shoes – should be stored in a container or separate room for 72 hours. Products that can be cleaned, such as some non-fabric accessories or homewares, can be disinfected using standard cleaning products and then returned to the shop floor.

PPE and face masks

According to the government, the risk of COVID-19 should be managed through social distancing and hygiene, not through the use of PPE. It says: “Workplaces should not encourage the precautionary use of extra PPE to protect against COVID-19 outside 22 | boutique. | june 2020

clinical settings or when responding to a suspected or confirmed case.”

Businesses owners should use their risk assessment to decide if PPE is required and if so provide it free of charge to staff.

When it comes to face coverings, the government says there are some circumstances when wearing one could be “marginally beneficial.”

However, that evidence suggests that wearing one doesn’t protect you but others around you if you are infected by haven’t developed symptoms. It says face coverings may be worn in enclosed spaces where social distancing isn’t possible and that it’s up to staff whether they decide to wear them.

The guidance states: “It is important to know that the evidence of the benefit of using a face covering to protect others is weak and the effect is likely to be small, therefore face coverings are not a replacement for the other ways of managing risk, including minimising time spent in contact, using fixed teams and partnering for close-up work, and increasing hand and surface washing.”

When social distancing isn’t possible

It’s not always possible to stay two metres away from people you’re working with, so the government has set out advice for when social distancing isn’t viable. For services that require close human contact such as bra fittings, retailers should “consider whether that activity needs to continue for the business to operate.” If it does, then business owners should take all the mitigating actions possible to reduce transmission between customers and staff. These actions include increasing the frequency of hand washing and surface cleaning, keeping the activity as short as possible, using screens or barriers to separate people, and using side-toside working rather than face-to-face.

Meanwhile, employers can reduce the number of people each person has contact with by using fixed teams or partnering.

Megan Calcutt, Cordella James “Some days I feel positive and excited about getting everything back to ‘normal’ and then other days I feel nervous. We will be providing sanitiser outside for customers to use before entering the shop. They will be encouraged to wear a face mask if they have one and we will provide masks for all our staff. We have sneeze guards, provided by Prosign Print and Display, on each desk as a barrier for when customers are paying. In one of our shops we will have a one-way system with signs and arrows on the floor, but the layout of our other two stores makes this impossible. We will limit the number of people allowed in the shops but I feel this will be difficult to police so we’ll have to see how this goes when we open. I’m concerned that customers will want to try clothes on, but I think the government is saying this will not be allowed. The customer will only take the item home, try it on there and bring it back. This means the item has been to more potentially risky places than it would if it had stayed in one place and been steamed properly before going back out.”

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

We have missed you.

As our retailers start to re open and we all works towards finding our new normal the Boutique team as always is here to champion our independents. If you wish to chat or send us your stories, thoughts and ideas please drop us an email or you can stay informed about the latest industry updates by visiting our website and following our social media channels.

Together we are tronger T: 01795 509106 E: julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk | gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk @boutiquemag @boutiquemaguk

www.boutique-magazine.co.uk

BUSINESS

Retail problems solved Sarah CoNNElly, liNgEriE StyliSt aNd formEr owNEr of odySSEy boUtiqUE, aNSwErS yoUr rEtail dilEmmaS Q: How can I reassure my customers that it’s safe to visit my boutique?

A: The news that non-essential retailers can reopen soon is a welcome announcement. But with the ‘business as usual’ philosophy being turned on its head, shop owners have work to do to reassure customers it’s safe to visit.

Start by making a plan. Assess all the areas of your business that will need to be approached in a new way. How big is your space?

How many customers and staff can be in the store at any one time and still maintain social distancing measures? Look at logistics around access to fitting rooms, the cash desk, rest room, staff areas and stockroom. Also consider what new housekeeping and hygiene procedures will need to be implemented. Help your team to understand all the new procedures

KoriE CUll oN UNSPlaSh

and practise before re-opening, too.

Equip your boutique with simple signage, hand-sanitiser or other essential hygiene tools to help everyone enjoy a stress-free experience.

Once this is in place it’s time to let your customers know that you can’t wait to see them!

Use email and social media to share insight into all the steps you’re taking to keep them safe and feel welcome. Share videos and pictures of preparations and give customers a virtual guided tour of how a visit to your boutique will look for them when you reopen.

If how you serve customers has changed considerably, be sure to communicate the processes across all your platforms and website.

This could be things like switching from drop-in shopping to a byappointment service or a change to opening hours. Likewise, if

you’re offering enhanced customer experiences with click-and-collect or virtual preview services.

Everything you can do to make your customers’ experience engaging and as easy and as possible will help make them feel safe and valued, and maintain their loyalty.

In coming months, the retail experience we offer will continue to evolve. And for boutique owners, staff and customers alike, business will be unusual for some time as we get used to reformed procedures and practice new etiquette. By keeping communication open, inviting feedback and tuning into the challenges customers face, you’ll be better placed to change and grow in line with new demand.

If you need help navigating a new challenge in your small business, send your question to E: hello@sarahconnelly.co.uk

24 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

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June 2020 | boutique. | 25

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Changing rhythms

Could the fashion industry re-emerge from the Coronavirus Crisis even better than it was before?

R

etailers are worried about the AW20 season - and for good reason. With so much uncertainty surrounding consumer behaviour following the coronavirus crisis, forward orders written in January and February were decided in a wholly different era.

As the lockdown finally begins to ease, fashion retailers are in crisis management discussions to limit the devastation. Saving non-trend related summer fashion until 2021 could help reduce profit loss. And re-purposing unsold stock for the autumn months, such as jeans, spring knits and longsleeved tees, is a realistic possibility for some retailers.

Of course, many will try to shift their stock at a discounted price either online or as soon as they can reopen.

For many, this will continue for long after end of summer sales traditionally begin in June. Which begs the question: could the pandemic regulate the fashion seasons?

Regardless of the coronavirus outbreak, the fashion industry’s product cycle has been at odds with our climatological seasons for quite some time. Shoppers have become used to seeing summer dresses in stores when they are still braving the frost. This topsy-turvy selling culture has been imposed by fast fashion chains and an ever-rapid race to discount. But it is very much in despite of the shopper’s preference to ‘buy now, wear now.’

So, will we see a new (or indeed go back to a previous) way of selling 26 | boutique. | june 2020

fashion when stores can reopen? And could the pandemic finally force fast fashion retailers to reduce their lines and become more responsible?

The post-COVID-19 world is so uncertain. When the cold weather bites in October and shoppers begin looking for winter coats, delayed deliveries of AW20 forward orders could mean that retailers have garments on their rails that actually match the season. But for those retailer owners who have cancelled or reduced their forward orders, there is still a lot of anxiety about whether they will have the right stock (and enough of it) in store at the right time.

Short ordering can be a less risky way to operate in such an uncertain time, but finding suitable in-season collections can be difficult. A truly viable solution is now being offered by online B2B marketplaces, which allow retailers to order quality stock for immediate delivery. TradeGala is leading the way in the UK. Its site offers a growing number of affordable brands in various sectors - from womenswear and menswear to shoes, bags and jewellery. Its team carefully selects its supplier partners to include both famous names and emerging independent designers.

Retailers can use TradeGala to order what they need as and when they need it. The site is easy to navigate and once registered, buyers have access to live stock levels so they can see exactly what’s available at any given time. It also offers centralised customer service and payment protection, so retailers

are just dealing with one supplier instead of many.

For brands, TradeGala offers greater visibility and access to retailers in countries that have been less affected by the pandemic. Meanwhile, smaller independent brands are able to take their first steps into the wholesale market under the direction of an experienced team.

While the pandemic has been absolutely catastrophic, not only for people’s health but also their finances, there is a chink of light for fashion retailers. Perhaps now the industry can adjust to its ‘new normal’ and create an improved product rhythm that is better suited to demand. And maybe buying more brands in-season with less risk to the retailer might become easier. Because in the post-pandemic world, such radical change really does seem possible.

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Stock Up

What to buy noW

SS20’s hottest accessory?

VERa DaVIDoVa on unSPLaSh

I

n a surprising plot twist, we reveal why stylish face masks could become summer’s most unexpected best seller...

JunE 2020 | boutique. | 29

STOCK UP

Personal protection

AS WEARING FACE MASKS BECOMES THE NORM, RETAILERS ARE INVESTING IN STYLISH VERSIONS OF THE UNLIKELY FASHION ACCESSORY CITY GODDESS

W

ith the government now urging people to wear face coverings in shops and crowded places, sales of fashionable masks are expected to rise. The question is: should you sell them in your boutique?

And if so, where can you get stylish face coverings that will sit next to your brands?

Some fashion designers spent the lockdown using their expertise to hand-make masks for key workers.

Leading TV costume maker Kate 30 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

Ireland kept busy running up 160 masks a week on her home sewing machine. She designed reusable face masks made from close-weave cotton with wire across the nose, which were also equipped with a filter made from proprietary vacuum cleaner bags for added protection.

Ireland says demand for face masks will rise across the UK as more people weave them into their daily lives. And for those boutique shoppers who are fashion conscious, there could be a market for more stylish designs. “I

XD XENIA DESIGN

STOCK UP imagine that people might start to see masks as a fashion accessory after a while,” she says.

Some independent fashion brands have also been making non-medical face masks and donating the proceeds to NHS charities. This includes Helaina and Chloe Thomas, founders of new sustainable swimwear brand Tucca Swim, who made masks at home using left over fabric from their SS20 collection to sell on Instagram.

The pair donated 100 per cent of the profits to charity to support NHS staff and volunteers caring for coronavirus patients. “We used fabric from our swimwear cut-offs so we were able to go even further with the brand’s sustainability values,” they say. “We hope the proceeds have helped to make a real positive difference.”

In the US, demand for designer face masks surged after the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention updated its guidance on wearing face coverings in public. Some American brands and retailers are now selling flamboyant masks featuring colourful prints, with prices currently ranging from $10 to $100. Of course, the popularity of face masks in Asian countries means there’s nothing new about high fashion versions. However, following the coronavirus crisis, it’s thought they could become a genuine style accessory in the UK too.

Industry insiders believe it’s only a matter of time before we see nonmedical masks on the shelves of H&M and Zara. Both retail giants have been using their factories to make medical masks for frontline workers – making it straightforward to tweak their designs for consumers.

Sales opportunity

So, should you source face coverings to sell in your boutique? It’s clear that the government’s new advice certainly does present an opportunity for fashion retailers.

Major brands have already begun manufacturing their own ranges to wholesale. Canadian womenswear brand Frank Lyman Design is producing non-medical masks, which 32 | boutique. | june 2020

CITY GODDeSS

are available on a wholesale basis to its stockists (Tel: 0141 204 0699). The fashion-led range offers several options from plain colours to florals and animal prints. The brand is donating all profits from direct online sales of its masks to global charities while retailers can contact their local sales representative directly to place an order.

Likewise, Croatian label XD Xenia Designs is also selling trend-led non-medical face masks (Joannaedwardsagency.co.uk). There are several versions to choose from in a variety of fabrics either left over or recycled from its past and current collections. Buyers can also opt for packs of three cotton masks that can be machine washed. Joanna Edwards, founder of the eponymous fashion agency that supplies the brand in the UK, says she’s been wearing one every time she goes out: “They’re great,” she says. “It’s nice to have something a bit different from the usual paper masks.

I’ve been stopped a couple of times and asked where I got mine from. You can even match them with your outfit.”

Sustainable fashion brand Nesavaali is also producing a line of hand-made

masks for women, men and children.

Its double layer two-way dual masks feature filter pockets and come in various fabrics, colours and prints. The range includes brocade and jacquard designs as well as animal, floral and geometric prints in cotton, soft denim and soft stretch jersey. Each mask is adjustable, washable and breathable and fits a variety of faces. It also offers exclusive prints for children aged 3-6 and 7-10 alongside versions for teenagers.

All of Nesavaali’s mask designs are available for retailers to order for immediate delivery with a minimum order requirement of £50 (Tel:0203 488 1652). The brand is also donating 10 per cent of the wholesale proceeds to the NHS group of charities.

Founder Shangami S.Muthumani says she wanted to offer face masks so customers could protect themselves while still looking stylish. Moreover, that the range has also been a great way to support its network of garment makers while fashion production has slowed down: “As a sustainable brand promoting fair wages and the welfare of people working for us, it was vital to support our producers during the

STOCK UP

neSAVAALI

pandemic,” she says. “Making masks has given women a reliable income during the lockdown, especially when male members of the family lost their jobs.”

Lastly, B2B marketplace TradeGala has a selection of face masks available for retailers to order directly from its website, Tradegala.com. The site’s range includes fabric masks in a wide selection of colours and prints that can be coordinated with its fashion collections. Each one has been designed with comfort and protection in mind without sacrificing style and there’s something for every taste.

TradeGala’s masks start from £20 for a pack of 10 with a minimum order of £150, but this can be combined with the purchase of its other garments and accessories. Shipping is free to UKbased customers.

Tried and tested

Some fashion indies, such as Fab Frocks Boutique in Bournemouth, have been selling face masks online since the government revised its

recommendations. Co-founder Steve Taylor says the boutique has sold over 300 face coverings so far and will be offering them to shoppers inside the physical store once it reopens. “When Frank Lyman started making masks in plain and print we felt this would be something our customers would welcome,” he says. “We have had excellent feedback from our online orders with customers saying they feel more confident going out in a face mask and are very happy with the quality.”

Other independent fashion retailers, including the likes of premium groups Young Ideas and Psyche, plan to introduce face coverings once they’ve secured suitable products from suppliers. But they’re not for everyone - and some indies have expressed that they will categorically not be carrying them. “We will not be selling masks,” says Sarah Simonds, owner of Artichoke in Swaffham. “I thought about it for all of 30 seconds before having a chat with a few customers that are friends before

TuCCA SWIM

coming up with a resounding ‘no’. As far as possible, while complying with all the regulations, Artichoke will be a COVID-19 free zone. Somewhere to come to forget about the virus for half an hour or so. Masks will definitely not be on sale.” june 2020 | boutique. | 33

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Shop Talk

Industry opInIon

Supply and demand

W

AndrEJ LIsAKoV on unspLAsH

ith the reopening of shops now confirmed, retailers are preparing to shift their surplus SS20 stock. For many, going straight into sale will be crucial for survival. But those that can hold their nerve could see a better outlook long-term. We speak to industry insiders about the great SS20 discounting debate‌ JunE 2020 | boutique. | 37

SHOP TALK

“The next few months will be about keeping customers engaged on social media and trying to provide a great shopping experience” Deryane TaDD, owner of The Dressing room, on reopening her bricksanD-morTar sTore How have you kept your business going during the lockdown?

There’s only three of us out of a team of 20 so we’ve been working super hard!

On social media we’re making sure the content we’re posting is engaging and keeping customers up to date with what we’ve got in while also staying relevant with what’s happening. We’ve focused on creating uplifting content that’s an escape from it all, which our customers have really appreciated.

Online is still in operation too and it’s going really well. We have myself and one other staff member working 38 | boutique. | JUne 2020

in the store plus another one at home.

It’s a juggling act trying to balance everything. We are dispatching web orders and taking deliveries and then uploading new products on the site and prepping social media content.

Then there’s the whole business side of things too.

pieces. It’s not occasionwear, that’s one category that isn’t performing well at the moment, but nice blouses, summer dresses and sandals have been popular.

I think the warmer weather has been the saving grace for that and people have been investing in summer pieces to cheer themselves up a bit.

What have shoppers been buying online?

Are you reopening on Monday 15 June? If so, what plans have you been putting in place?

At the beginning of the lockdown we received lots of orders for casual clothing, lounge wear and trainers. But as time has gone on we’ve noticed that people have been buying into dressy

We had planned to reopen on Monday 1 June and had a risk assessment drawn up based on the government’s

SHOP TALK guidelines at the time. When they changed the date and published new guidance it came as a real shock. So that’s something we are still working on and putting together at the moment. We have a spacious store and don’t have to limit to appointment only so we will be opening for customers.

I plan to open the fitting rooms, if it’s feasible, but disinfect after each customer. I can’t see the point of opening the physical store without offering an option to try on clothes.

If at any point I feel it’s not safe, I will change the policy. We will also steam clothing that’s been tried on before putting it back onto the shop floor.

Do you have any concerns about how shoppers will be feeling when they visit the store?

Hopefully if customers are out shopping they’ll be more relaxed. I think those people who are super worried probably won’t come out shopping in the first place. I think it will be a minefield though. We’re such a high service environment that it’s going be difficult to stand back a bit. Our very nature is to have close one to one interaction with customers. We’ll be playing it by ear and taking each day as it comes.

I think there is perhaps a concern about some customers potentially over stepping the mark and making staff feel uncomfortable. So we will be putting the relevant training in place so people know how to deal with certain situations. It’s as much about the safety of our staff as it is about our customers.

Do you think the government guidelines are clear enough for retailers?

No, I think the guidance is very ambiguous. I think the government should be very clear about what retailers can and can’t do. In clothing stores it’s obvious that customers will want to touch things, but the guidelines say customers should try to avoid touching them, which doesn’t make sense. I think some

of the guidance is aimed at larger retailers. We have to use a level of common sense and feel comfortable that we’re providing a safe shopping environment.

What is your strategy on selling your SS20 stock?

We’ve done a few targeted promotions during the lockdown to help clear product out, but there will still be too much stock left over at the end of all this. I don’t plan to go into sale straight way and it will be later than we do normally, but I think a lot still remains to be seen. We need to get the first few weeks of trading under our belt and get a feeling of how things might progress.

Would you save any stock for AW20 or SS21 to sell at full price?

Our customers thrive on the new and they know our stock inside out. We have a fast turnover of stock normally, so I don’t think wheeling it all out again next season would work for us.

That said, it could possibly work for categories like swimwear that isn’t as seasonal and people haven’t had a need for this year.

Have suppliers been supportive during the lockdown?

It’s been varied. The majority have been fantastic but there’s a handful that have been difficult and unmoving in their own strategies.

How about your customers?

Yes, they’ve been hugely supportive.

They’ve continued to shop online with us and they’ve been very responsive and active on social media. We ran a big promotion for our fifteenth birthday while in lockdown, which included a charity competition.

Shoppers could buy £5 raffle tickets to be in with a chance of a winning £1,500 worth of clothes from some of our suppliers. It raised over £3,000 for the NHS and our customers were really supportive, which was lovely to see.

Have you cancelled any AW20 orders or are you going ahead with your original plans?

When we first went into lockdown I reduced quite a lot of our AW20 orders. I think autumn will be tricky as product will come in late. It will be a tough season and tricky to navigate, but hopefully we’ll arrive at something that resembles normality by next spring.

Will you be reassessing how much budget you save for inseason ordering?

In theory it’s a great idea, but a lot of our best selling brands don’t offer short order. A lot of the in-season collections available just aren’t what we’re looking for. I do always keep back 30 per cent for in-season so there’s room for manoeuvre. I think it depends on how flexible brands are when we go into buying.

What will be your focus for the next few months?

We’ll be making sure we make the most of what’s left of the season and trying to get through this testing period. It will be about keeping customers engaged on social media and trying to provide a great shopping experience. There’s not much else that we can do.

JUne 2020 | boutique. | 39

SHOP TALK

“I think customers are now more than ready to get out and into shops. We’re all craving some face-toface communication and boutiques are the perfect place to provide that human connection” Fashion agent Joanna edwards answers today’s biggest retail conundrum: should boutiques discount their ss20 stock?

“W

hen fashion indies finally reopen this month, we’re far from certain about how shoppers will react. They could be eager to treat themselves and buy fashion again. On the other hand, they could be cautious about what they spend on ‘non essential’ goods.

“Inevitably, there’s been a lot of talk among retailers and brands over the past 12 weeks about what to do with SS20 stock. The answer to that question is a highly complex one and is completely personal to each boutique.

Discounting decisions

“Clearly, deciding whether to discount stock or not depends on the retailer and the brands it carries. There are some boutiques that will need to discount straight away, because they sadly will not survive otherwise. For these businesses, slashing prices by 40 per cent will provide the muchneeded cash flow they need. If this isn’t 40 | boutique. | June 2020

necessary to keep your business afloat, I think you can be bold about how you proceed.

“Often retailers are far too quick to go into sale in a normal season, regardless of an unprecedented pandemic. Fashion boutiques sell artisan and premium collections that have a longer shelf life than we perhaps give them credit for. Therefore, they don’t need to align themselves with mainstream discount sales. The selling seasons have been skewed for a long time: it’s become the norm to reduce everything to half price far too early.

Most fashion retailers go into sale in June when the UK is yet to hit high summer and December when winter’s coldest days are still to come. It’s been led by the multiples and department stores and it doesn’t work. This issue has just been highlighted even futher by the coronavirus crisis.

“Some boutique owners will see others discounting and feel they have to price match. I would remind everyone to be mindful of other

retailers. We’ve all got to shift stock and we all want the cogs to start turning so we can make much-needed sales. The last thing we all want is to get into price wars.

“I understand your fears that if you don’t discount straight away you might lose some sales. But remember: once that size 12 dress has sold online at half price, it’s gone. There won’t be hundreds of that particular style in a size 12 on offer at half price. And once the initial discounting wave has ended online, perhaps it will dull down altogether. Perhaps then you can focus on serving your customers and giving them the boutique experience that sets your boutique apart. Hopefully your customers will appreciate your expertise without chasing a cheaper price.

“Maybe this is also the time to reconsider the brands you stock.

Those retailers selling the same labels as competitors are more likely to be forced into discounting. If you invest in more individual collections

shop talk and perhaps not the run-of-the-mill mainline brands, your offer will be more original and you won’t have to price match with local boutiques, online retailers and department stores.

“But regardless of your brands, hold your nerve on discounting. Be prudent and confident enough in your buying. I know that there are many very talented buyers in this industry who have been running absolutely outstanding boutiques for years. So stand strong and believe in your abilities as a buyer. Independent retailers have been up against the web for many years now and that won’t change.

“If a customer comes back to the boutique and claims they can get the same product at half price somewhere else, you could offer a gift voucher for the difference. This means you’ll keep money in the till and keep your customer happy and loyal.

Considering categories

“My advice is to break down each part of your business. Think about each category and how it might perform

over the next few weeks and months.

Hold back any garments in winter colourways that can be repurposed for AW20 and sold at full price. If they don’t move, consider running a midseason sale in October and discount poor performers by 20 per cent. Even high summer pieces can still be sold later in the season to those customers who manage to swap their cancelled summer holiday for some winter sun.

“The occasionwear category is a difficult one because so many events are no longer taking place. I know retailers are worried. But those weddings that don’t go ahead this summer could still happen in autumn and winter. And many occasionwear pieces are transitional and will work just as well for a wedding taking place at a later date than originally planned.

“We can perhaps gain some insight into customer behaviour by looking at other countries that have lifted their lockdowns before us. In Austria, for example, not all shops have gone straight into sale. Some have continued to make sales at full price, with a focus on private one-to-one appointments.

Brands we work with have already had some repeat SS20 orders from international retailers, so hopefully UK and Irish shoppers will react in the same way.

Happy shoppers

“I think customers are now more than ready to get out and into shops.

We’re all craving some face-to-face communication and boutiques are the perfect place to provide that human connection. This is one reason why online retailers will never really be able to compete, even if they slash their prices.

“Now is the time to be bold, stay strong and believe in your merchandise. For those retailers that need a cash injection quickly, consider holding a time limited sale only for your most loyal customers. This could be the perfect way to say thank you to those who have supported you through your darkest hour - all without damaging the future of your brand.

“Now get those doors open and let’s start selling!”

JUNE 2020 | boutique. | 41

SHOP TALK

For years I’ve been asked by retailers: ‘Why can’t we have summer stock to sell in the summer and winter merchandise in the winter?’

Now you have that opportunity” Tor STockdale, founder of Tor faShion lTd, on how indieS can STill Thrive ThiS Summer

“M

any of you will have seen the recent article in the Telegraph, ‘How small fashion boutiques will thrive - not just survive - when lockdown is lifted.’ This piece has finally given us some much-needed positivity among all the doom and gloom. Also, some of the biggest names in the industry are promoting the realignment of our schedules with the real world and urging the industry to rethink the endless deliveries and discounting Rewiring Fashion.

“Flexibility is key and as independents, you can easily respond to different circumstances.

42 | boutique. | June 2020

“There is plenty of advice on how to deal with obstacles such as social distancing in-store and many retailers are being extremely proactive by introducing measures like an appointment system for customers and regular deep cleaning.

“Let’s try not to panic. Instead, delay sales and discounting of appropriate merchandise until the end of each season. If we have a long hot summer, it’s the perfect chance for you, for once, to sell the right merchandise at the right time of the year. For years I have been asked by my customers: ‘Why can’t we have summer stock to sell in the summer and winter merchandise in the winter?’ Now you have that

opportunity.

“For the first time ever, your customers won’t be jetting off on holiday in July and August. They will be around this summer and are likely to be bored, so what better way to endure their enforced ‘staycation’ with some good retail therapy at their favourite independent? Delay your summer sale until end August/early September. This applies equally to casual wear and special occasionwear retailers.

“These are unprecedented times this summer may just surprise you!

You have lost two to three of your best months of trade. Do what you can to get that back. Coming out of lockdown on June 15 still gives you three months of perfect summer selling time.

“The whole industry has been forced to shift due to COVID-19. AW20 deliveries are likely to be delayed, major trade shows have been pushed back; so use the window of this extended summer season.

“Having spoken to a wide range of people from across the industry, I firmly believe that this is the best approach for the coming summer to maximise sales for everyone. Out of adversity comes opportunity and I really think this is it. Good times are ahead of us - I am certain of it. We all just need to be flexible until we get there. The more shops and brands that follow this approach, the better the prospect for us all to succeed.”

& E LI P O T & E LI IN P O T & E LI IN P O T R • R • N N N N IN N & T RIN NL & O • P INE T & RIN NLI & O • P INE T & RIN NLI O • P N & N P • & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INE N E T RI NL O • E T RI NL O • E T RI NL O N N I & N I & I •P O T E L RIN • P O T E L RIN • P O T & E R N N N P E T & IN LI O P E T & IN LI ON P E T & IN LIN IN IN PR ON & E • LIN IN PR ON & E • LIN IN PR ON & L N PR E • & INT LIN N PR E • & INT IN N PR • & INT • IN NT PR N & O • IN NT R NL & O • INE NT R N I NE NL PR • & O INT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O I E L O O E L E & E • LIN INT PR ON & E • LIN INT PR ON & O E • LIN INT PR IN ON PR E • & INT LIN ON PR E • & INT LIN N PR E • L N & E • IN INT PR N & E • IN INT PR N & O • IN INT L R • O T N NL R • O T NE NL R • T N N I I & I & N N P RI NL & O • INE INT PRI NL & O • P INE NT RIN NL & O • P INE O T NE NL R • O T NE NL RI • P O T NE L R I & N T RIN NL & O • P INE T & RIN NLI & O • P INE T & RIN NLI O • P N & N P • & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INE NL E T RI NL O • E T RI NL O • E T RI NL O N N I & N I INFORMATION & N IN • P O T & E L RI • P & O NT INE NL PRI • P & O NT INEFURTHER R Nthousands Reach of independent & IN LIN P I I E L E L O E O T T T • R • lifestyle R and across R N & N retailers I N P I LIN RIN • P ON T & NE LIN RIN • P ON T &fashion E L the UK with the Ultimate Boutique O R •of this& NT N N I P E T & IN LI ON P E T & IN Suppliers P Guide.

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The Ultimate Boutique

Su liers

Guide

SUPPLIER DIRECTORY Accessories Accessories by Park Lane Unit I6B, Hornbeam Park Oval, Harrogate, HG2 8RB T: 01423 868362 E: sales@parklaneonline.com W: www.parklaneonline.com Facebook: AccessoriesByPL Brit-Stitch Ltd. Traditionally Tomorrow Beautiful leather bags and accessories lovingly made in Britain Contact: Bek Brooks T: 01873 852 742 E: info@brit-stitch.com, E: orders@brit-stitch.com W: www.brit-stitch.com Instagram: @britstitchuk Celtic & Co. Inspired by nature, crafted for life Contact: Clare Whitworth T: 01637 852541 E: trade@celticandco.com Covert Clip Wallets 12 Rosedew Road London W6 9ET T: +44 7900 910 493 E: sales@covertclip.com W: www.covertclip.com Euroleathers Euroleathers are a supplier of premium shoe and leather care products and accessories.

HQ: Ibex House, Ferrofields, Brixworth, Northampton NN6 9UA T: 01604 881 097 E: sales@euroleathers.com W: www.euroleathers.com Koruma Limited Chessington Business Centre, Cox Lane, Chessington, Surrey, KT9 1SD T: (0044) 020 37 45 56 86 E: info@koruma.co.uk W: www.koruma.co.uk Lesser & Pavey Ltd Suppliers of Quality and Original Products - V&A Bags, Travel Mugs, Keep Calm products, Trendy Quality Reading Glasses, Fashion Eye Lashes, Foil Nails and Sparkle Lips, Social Stationery.

T: 01233 279225 E: sales@leonardo.co.uk W: www.leonardo.co.uk 44 | boutique. | JUNE 2020

Richard Sexton & Co Old Road, Clapham, North Yorkshire, LA2 8JH T: 01524 251747 E: edward@glencroftcountrywear. co.uk S’ip by S’well Brands: S’ip by S’well + S’nack by S’well Contact: Anna Green, T: 0203 540 7799 E: agreen@swellbottle.co.uk W: www.sipbyswell.com Tempest Designs Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Michael Webster T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries@tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk

Business Esperus Systems Ltd Providers of technology fashion business solutions since 1986. We provide the complete integrated Multi-Channel system, Retail, ePoS, eCommerce, Wholesale and Production.

Contact: Greg Gregoriou T: 020 8920 9888 E: Greg@esperus.com W: www.esperus.com Futura Retail Solutions Ltd Specialists in Omni-channel retail solutions. Providing EPOS and inventory control software to leading fashion and lifestyle retailers worldwide.

The Old Forge, The Street, Tidmarsh, Reading, Berkshire, RG8 8ER T: 01189 841925 E: sales@futurauk.com W: www.futura4retail.co.uk Mode Retail Ltd (fashione) Multichannel, Epos & Stock control systems for fashion and footwear boutiques.

Unit 6, Clarence Street, Chorley, Lancashire, PR7 2AT T: 01257 220205 E: sales@fashione.co.uk W: www.fashione.co.uk

Paraspar Online Fashion Retail specialists – Building successful ecommerce sites since 1997 T: 0208 238 5860 E: info@paraspar.co.uk W: www.paraspar.co.uk Top To Toe Senator house, 2 Graham Road, London, NW4 3HJ Software Systems T: 020 3376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com Visualsoft Ltd Contact: brand@visualsoft.co.uk T: 01642 633 604 W: www.visualsoft.co.uk

Footwear Caprice Shoes T: 07734 247 669 E: Capriceshoes@gmail.com W: www.capriceshoes.co.uk Facebook: /capriceshoes Laceys Footwear T: 0207 7390 398 E: michael@laceysfootwear.com W: www.laceysfootwear.co.uk La Paire La paire is a boutique shoe brand specialising in handmade Spanish leather sandals. The focus is quality, comfort and design create wearable and timeless styles.

141 Priory Road, London N8 8NA Contact: Amy T: 07976 633 723 E: info@lapaire.co.uk W: www.lapaire.co.uk

Shop Fitting Dragon Display Sytems Ltd Unit 20, Queensway Link, Stafford Park 17, Telford, TF3 3DN T: 01952 290055 E: sales@dragondisplay.co.uk

SUPPLIER DIRECTORY Shop and Display Equipment Association 24 Croydon Road, Caterham, Surrey CR3 6YR T: 01883 348911 E: enquiries@sdea.co.uk W: www.shopdisplay.org

Stock Clearance LSS Services T: 0208 952 5208 E: stock@lssserevices.co.uk

Womenswear ABSOLUTE The Point, Showroom 3, 173-175 Cheetham Hill Road, Manchester, M8 8LG T: 0161 228 6966 E: viv@absolutefirst.co.uk Atelier Gardeur GmbH Gardeur T:+44 77 1432 9644 W: www.gardeur.de Capri Clothing T: 0203 819 0819 E: sales@capriclothing.co.uk W: www.capriclothing.co.uk City Goddess/Goddiva/Goddiva plus T: 0044 208 597 2744 E: sales@citygoddess.co.uk W: www.citygoddess.co.uk Diane Sykes Brands: Laurel, Marc Aurel and Fee G Showroom: Asia House, 63 New Cavendish St, London, W1G 7LP T: 07906 070081 E: diane@dianesykesfashion.com W: www.dianesykesfashion.com Duffy Contact; Ray Barron 10 Stucley Place, Camden Town, London, NW1 8NS T: 020 7267 2247 E: rayb@duffyny.com W: www.duffyny.com

Extravagance Brands: Sarah Pacini, NY77design Contact: Nazma Chaudhry T: 0207 636 1280 M: 07881 622 888 E: nazmachaudhry@gmail.com W: www.sarahpacini.com W: www.ny77design.com Leap N Link Ltd Brands: Pause Cafe, Olivier Philips, Fuego Woman Contact: Pierre & Bhavna T: 0161 713 1803 E: info@leapnlink.co.uk W: www.leapnlink.co.uk LevelOne Showroom One of the UK’s leading fashion agency, Level/One Showroom is a multi-branded distributor representing the most exciting premium European and American brands.

Brands: Desigual, Kaffe, MSCH, Coster, Grace & Mila, Compania Fantastica, Smashed Lemon, Up!Pants, Lysse, Go Silk, Lisa Todd, South Parade, Black Orchid, Arctic Army, Pajar Outerwaer & Footwear, Nero Giardini, Kendall & Kylie Footwear Contact: David Smith T: 020 7288 8704 E: david@leveloneshowroom.com W: www.leveloneshowroom.com Lily & Me Amari Designs Ltd, Unit 15, Gabwell Business Park, Quadrant Distribution Centre, Hardwicke, Gloucester, GL2 2JH T: 01566 779477 / 01566 772121 E: enquiries@lilyandmeclothing.com info@lilyandmeclothing.com W: www.lilyandmeclothing.com Lisette L Montreal Perfect Fit and Always in Style - your Lisette L Montreal UK Agent: Liz d’Esterre Fashion Agency T: 07956216801 E: lizdesterre@yahoo.co.uk W: www.lizdesterrefashionagency.com Ireland Agent: LFM Agencies T: 00353 87121 4857 E: sales@lfmagencies.com

Lyn Burns Fashions 44 Hallam St, London, W1 W6JJ Brands: Simclan, Vetono, Backstage, One Life, Nor Admin Office: 01737 851141 M: 07711847275 E: lynburnsfashions@yahoo.co.uk MDA International Fashion MDA are a multi-branded womenswear fashion and distributor working with the very best independent boutiques across the UK & Ireland.

Brands: Mama b, THING, Mes Soeurs et Moi, La Bottega di Brunella, Gershon Bram, Kedziorek T: 0207 971 1084 Martin, Phil & Hannah E: office@mdainternational.co.uk W: www.mdainternational.co.uk Michael Dawson Fashion Agency Brands: BIGGI M, KJ Brand, Laurie, Mona Lisa T: 0161 236 1976 E: michael.dawsonfa@ntlworld.com W: www.mdfa.co.uk Nomads 9 Western Road, Launceston, Cornwall, PL15 7AR Contact: Shallon and Jo T: 01566 777 338 E: info@nomadsclothing.co.uk W: www.nomadsclothing.com Partners In Fashion (2019) Limited Brands: Erfo, Just White, Lecomte, Lucia, Rabe, Relaxed By Toni, Toni 35 Percy Street London W1T 2DQ Contact: Cathy Vandeputte T: 020 7636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk W: www.partnersinfashion.com Richard Sexton & Co Old Road, Clapham, North Yorkshire, LA2 8JH T: 01524 251747 E: edward@glencroftcountrywear. co.uk Sarah Tempest/Tempest Designs Italian Clothing Supplier Contact: Michael Webster T; 01656 842102 E: enquiries@tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk JUNE 2020 | boutique. | 45

SHOP TALK

“I realise that some retailers would have welcomed a blanket discount for SS20, but it isn’t a viable option for many of the industry’s brands and distributors” Hari KrisHnadasan, Md at Capri ClotHing, on worKing togetHer in tHe Coronavirus Crisis

“W

e are all looking forward to the reopening of bricks-and-mortar stores this month, but we must all continue to work together as suppliers and retailers to weather this storm.

“Some of the retailers I’ve spoken to over the past 12 weeks are planning to go straight into sale to try and get revenue into their business quickly.

While this might provide a short term solution, I would advise retailers to consider how it might affect their long-term strategy. Not only will a sale potentially attract an influx of shoppers that could make social distancing impossible, it could also damage the future value of your store as a brand. Like we’ve seen time and time again on the high street, shoppers that become accustomed to buying at discount are unlikely to want to buy at full price. What’s more, customers now have a reason to go shopping as we can meet people now the lockdown rules have been eased.

“As with the wonderful retailers in this industry, the coronavirus crisis has been a difficult time for suppliers.

At Capri, we have tried our best to work with our stockists to ensure we can all come out of this together.

46 | boutique. | June 2020

This includes offering extended credit terms, extended payment plans for those struggling with outstanding invoices and discounts for retailers that can settle early.

“In usual circumstances, most of our customers pay their invoices within a few days to get the early settlement discount. We extended this period recently to help retailers with cash flow along with offering longer payment terms for customers who want to pay when the CBIL/ Bounce Back loans or LA grants come through.

“Being a Fairtrade brand, we work with small artisans who create our products to support their families with the basics like food and rent. For this reason, we’ve already paid them upfront so our makers’ livelihoods are not put at risk. We are not going to go back to them asking for discounts.

Their governments have given them zero fiscal help, no grants, no subsides and no guaranteed bounce back loans to help keep their businesses going.

I’m proud to say that our factory is SEDEX certified, unlike most of the fast fashion behemoth factories with inhuman and exploitative working conditions and low pay.

“We are not a high street brand and we are not working with high street suppliers. A few names have been

circulating in the media regarding squeezing overseas factories for discounts, delaying taking delivery, cancelling deliveries and in some cases not paying at all. This puts hundreds if not thousands of people at risk of unemployment and their families going into poverty.

“Our banks give us 60 days’ credit to pay our suppliers, hence our usual credit terms for stockists. But due to the pandemic, we’ve extended payment terms with no penalties to our customers even though we’re paying interest on overdue invoices to our bank.

“For AW20, we plan to either extend the early payment discount period or increase the early payment discount amount to help retailers move forward.

The brand will absorb these costs and not pass them on to our overseas suppliers.

“I realise that some retailers would have welcomed a blanket discount for SS20, but it isn’t a viable option for many brands and also many of the distributors I’ve been in discussion with over the lockdown. I would like to thank those that are working with us through this incredibly difficult time. We really are all in this together and I hope there will be light at the end of the tunnel by SS21.”

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