Viestra Magazine Autumn 2019 edition

VIESTRA M A G A Z I N E

Autumn 2019

ALTERNATIVE ATOGUIDE THE SAFARIS LAND DOWN See the big five... and the rest

ALÀBRIGA EN VOGUE

The place to be seen on the Costa Brava

10 QUIRKY PLACES TO STAY IN THE UK A TALE OF THREE CITIES Amman, Cairo and Tel Aviv

TOP 10 BEACHES IN NORTH AMERICA

UNDER VENICE: THE VANISHING CITY ECO FRIENDLY TRAVEL IN LANZAROTE

WIN A 7 NIGHT BREAK IN OMAN

v i e s t r a m a g a z i n e. c o m

FAVOURITE EXPERIENCE? MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF MACHU PICCHU – BREATHTAKING...

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As the UK’s No1 specialist in travel to Latin America, we’ve been creating award-winning holidays to every corner of the region for 40 years.

Trust in our experience to create yours.

Speak to an expert on 020 8712 9673 or visit journeylatinamerica.co.uk

JOURNEY

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CONTENTS

HELLO TRAVELLERS!

Summer is coming to an end, and I’m writing this after enjoying the glorious bank holiday weekend heatwave, which I spent at the Notting Hill Carnival. One thing I love about travelling to other countries is meeting people (locals and other travellers from far flung parts of the world) and experiencing different cultures. And, for me, the carnival brought all of those things to my doorstep. Travellers from all over the world descended on my city while celebrating with the West Indian community who host the carnival each year. And the great thing is that everyone was there with the same purpose – to have fun!

I’m one of those people who is always re-evaluating things, and I think that it’s important to ask ourselves why we are wanting to travel. What is it that we’re looking for on our next trip? What do we want to see, do or feel while we’re away? Asking ourselves these questions can change the way we travel, and make the travel experiences we do have so much better. I hope that our Autumn issue can give you some inspiration for your upcoming trips, as we’ve tried to cover many different parts of the world with a variety of activities on offer.

8. ALÀBRIGA

12. ALTERNATIVE SAFARIS

18. PELION

22. 10 QUIRKY PLACES TO STAY IN THE UK

26. WEST SWEDEN

30. BEIJING VS SHANGHAI

34. CHARLESTON

38. AMMAN, CAIRO AND TEL AVIV

44. ECO FRIENDLY TRAVEL IN LANZAROTE

48. MUST-SEE INDIA

54. CHESIL VISTA HOLIDAY PARK

58. A GUIDE TO THE LAND DOWN UNDER

Happy travels x

Alex Holman, Editor

Editor: Alex Holman alex@viestramagazine.com Advertising: Simon Hossack simon@viestramagazine.com Marketing and PR: Katie Saunders katie@viestramagazine.com Design: Ed Fitzmaurice

Contact: Advertising and Editorial call 020 3623 0567.

Publisher: Paul Williams viestramagazine.com #viestratravel @viestramag

Viestra Magazine is published by Vencor Ltd, Unit 22, 295 Chiswick High Road, London, United Kingdom W4 4HH. 20,000 distributed at major travel hubs, corporate HQ’s and supermarkets.

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Viestra Magazine and the Viestra logo is a registered trademark registered as a Trade Mark with the UK Intellectual Property Office Trade Mark number: UK00003257230. ©Vencor Ltd 2019. All rights reserved.

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64. VENICE - THE 76. THE BEAUTIFUL 82. TOP 10 NORTH 70. 10 BEST VANISHING CITY MEDITERRANEAN CORNISH AMERICAN COUNTRYSIDE BEACHES EXPERIENCES

Contributing writers: Jo Gardner, Sarah Rodrigues, Gareth Davies, Geoff Moore, Lucinda Jarvis

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Journey Through The Stars In The United Airlines Polaris Cabin

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All-aisle access seats that lie flat and provide up to 6'6” of sleeping space Cool-gel memory foam pillows and Saks Fifth Avenue luxury bedding – including pillows, blankets and duvets Take pleasure in a selection of delicious decadent dining inspired by chefs from The Trotter Project Stay refreshed throughout your travels with award-winning, high-performance skincare

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85% of people seen within 15 minutes, HCA Healthcare UK statistics 2018* Initial consultation £100 for adults, £150 for children. (0-17 can only be seen at The Portland Hospital) For any life-threatening conditions, always ring 999 or go to your nearest emergency department.

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COSTA BRAVA

COSTA BRAVA

ALÀBRIGA IN VOGUE

The north Catalonian coast is home to one of the most glamorous hotels in Europe. With an exterior suggesting that of a super yacht, the Alàbriga Hotel two hours from Barcelona perches, given its size, somewhat discreetly above the upmarket town of Sant Feliu de Guíxols, oozing class and a delicate touch of refined decadence.

It’s no wonder crowds flock during summer to be seen at what will soon no doubt be its legendary Sea Club, whilst indulging in the hotel’s sumptuous fine dining, remarkable suites and exquisite decor.

WORDS BY PAUL WILLIAMS

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COSTA BRAVA

COSTA BRAVA The Alàbriga is extraordinarily unique thanks to the vision of the co-owner and former editor of Vogue Russia. Pieces of notable artwork adorn every wall, with space given over to sculptures and ornaments of such design, you’d think you were at the Tate Modern’s Spanish offshoot. I could use the phrase boutique in terms of character, but this is probably overused for the Alàbriga - it’s a Grand Luxe category hotel, Michelin Star rated with emphasis on sleek, faultless and impeccable service.

T

he suites at the Alàbriga are Dorchester standard, with a fingerprint recognition system - dignitaries and VIP’s would feel quite at home here. The attention to detail is akin to Swiss engineering, family sized rooms with fitted kitchens, full on entertainment systems at a standard hard to match in any typical 5 star joint. The space is over generous and eloquently laid out with hand made furnishings with silk carpets to lessen the impact of walking on marble flooring - it’s a hard life staying here. The outside area and balcony overlooking the S’Agaró Bay and Sant Pol beach, could easily host 20 of your friends (or family if you dare) whilst you show off your prestigious lodgings.

It goes without saying that comfort is of the utmost importance, and everything is taken into account. Once you’ve got over the gold leaf decorated ensuite bath/shower, sink into a bed direct from the God of good sleeps. It’s that damn comfortable that you can make bed angels given the delicacy of the sheets and melt away into Alàbriga heaven.

The common areas (there’s nothing common about this place) are like separate departments rather than a themed aesthetic throughout. Dom Pérignon designed the look of the bar and provide the only Champagne on site - you’ll receive a comp bottle upon arrival. Gins of the world, with the UK obviously well represented, adorn the shelves with an impressive malt selection too. It’s chilled out, utterly charming and so, so Alàbriga.

The Michelin star Terra restaurant observes a traditional Costa Brava menu with a few fruity twists that make its menu a bit of a world fusion. Head Chef, Abraham Artigas, has cooked all over the planet so takes inspiration from former appointments to create a pretty remarkable tasting menu that will simply blow you away. Seafood is certainly a focal

point, but there are options to fit every diet. You won’t leave feeling full - satisfied and amazed is far better on the gut.

Look out for the amazing desserts!

Of course, the spa lives up to and beyond expectation, offering all the usual treatments along with a well kitted out gym.

An outside pool allows for privacy away from the main hotel areas - enjoy a sundowner as the afternoon draws to a close.

In the summer months the Alàbriga’s Sea Club, across the road from the main site, continues to grow in popularity thanks to its rather impressive client list - no names mentioned - and its exclusively priced features. Hire a private dining/lounging area for the day and enjoy the tunes beside an impressive infinity pool. The Sea Club has been incorporated into the cliff face with a great deal given to maintaining the natural features of the surrounds - hats off, it’s a winner.

The Alàbriga has its own 45 foot motor yacht, skippered and at your disposal for a day or so. Enjoy a jaunt up the coast or across to the Balearics. You can make use of the yacht from as little as £80 per day.

The Alàbriga is a stunning example of a dynamic, modern and daring dream encapsulated by the seemingly infinite ideas of its owners and team. Yep, you pay for exclusivity, but that’s what we all adhere to in some capacity, and the Alàbriga is just so….well, Alàbriga.

DAYS OUT

STAY AT ALÀBRIGA HOTEL

Depending on length of stay it’s well worth noting a few excursions worthy of your efforts.

Alàbriga Hotel and Home Suites. Located on the shore of Costa Brava in the town of S’Agaro, Alàbriga offers 29 suites, the smallest measuring 85m2 with a capacity of four adults and starting at £450 per night. All suites are furnished with Italian handcrafted furniture and textiles for a more sensible experience. No suite is obstructed of a sea view, and all come with large terraces as standard. Offering several culinary choices, guests can choose to dine either at the Garden - an outdoors nature surrounded restaurant, Terra - the Michelin rated gastronomic restaurant or the Sea Club - a pool side lounge to spend the day.

Dalí Theatre and Museum in Figueres - Enjoy this museum dedicated to and built by one of the world’s greatest artists, Salvador Dalí. You’ll simply marvel at the ideas manifested by this eccentric, self marketing genius as you explore the former theatre acquired by Dalí after the Spanish Civil War. Girona - Known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter, Roman remains and early role in Catalonian trade routes, Girona is other worldly, so much so, it was used as a backdrop for the TV series Game of Thrones.

Cadaqués - Renowned for its quaint restaurants and coastal setting, this beautiful Catalonian fishing town is a true highlight. The drive through the Cap de Creus National Park is breathtaking in itself, and try and make a stop off at the Martín Faixó vineyards.

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Alàbriga Hotel & Home Suites Carretera de Sant Pol, 633 17220 Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Girona (Spain) T: +34 872 200 600 E: info@hotelalabriga.com W: www.hotelalabriga.com/en/

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AFRICA

AFRICA

ALTERNATIVE SAFARIS

A safari is an experience that will stay with you forever but not everyone fancies going on ten or more game drives in as many days. Thankfully, Africa has plenty of countries offering safari as well as other attractions, meaning you can combine wildlife with wine tasting, buffalos with beaches and rhino spotting with rainbows over waterfalls. Here’s our alternative to the Big Five.

SEE THE BIG FIVE... AND THE REST

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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AFRICA

AFRICA

ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA

For waterfalls…

One of the seven natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls is a magnificent waterfall on the Zambezi River located between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Explorer David Livingstone was the first person to see the falls in 1855, naming his discovery in honour of Queen Victoria of England. Victoria Falls is also known as ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ because of the roar it makes as the giant sheet of water crashes down.

A particular must-see is the lunar rainbow which arcs above the waterfall at night when spray is refracted in the moonlight.

For sand dunes…

Many have seen – and no doubt rolled down – sand dunes but nothing compares to the dunes of the Sossusvlei in the Namibian Desert. Great swatches of warm, ochre-hued sand are blown into huge peaks that can be climbed up and walked along – once at the top, the silence is almost deafening. Standing at an incredible 388 metres, the world’s highest dune – Dune 7 – is the most arduous, and most rewarding, to climb. Come early morning and watch the sun rise as you walk up barefoot, the soft sand caressing your feet as you go. For a sunset climb, head to Dune 45 and watch the sky turn from orange to pink to star-studded.

For safari...

Antelope Park Nature Reserve contains abundant wildlife including sizeable populations of elephant, Cape buffalo, giraffe, Grant’s zebra and a variety of antelope. Sightings of lions and South African cheetahs are also possible, albeit rarer; Vervet monkeys and baboons are more commonplace. The river above the falls also contains large populations of hippopotamus and crocodile; during the dry season you can watch African bush elephants traverse the river at various crossing points.

Where to stay: The Victoria Falls Safari Club is a luxury boutique hotel with just 20 rooms a 10-minute drive from Victoria Falls. Each room has a balcony overlooking a watering hole; order a G&T from your personal butler and watch as herds of elephant come to drink.

For safari...

Namibia’s Etosha National Park contains a salt pan so large it can be seen from space. The 120km-wide area – which was proclaimed as a game drive in 1907 – was formed thousands of years ago when a lake dried up; its natural springs and watering holes now sustain a variety of elephants, lions, leopards and the endangered black rhino. The whole area is malaria free, too, meaning game drives here are the perfect choice for families with young children.

Where to stay: If you are visiting for a special occasion, the best place to stay is Damaraland Camp. The £1,080 per night high season price tag is because the luxury camp is so remote it’s only accessible by small plane via Wilderness Air. People don’t just come to get away from the hustle and bustle though, game drives from here take you within inches of desert elephants.

SOUTH AFRICA

MADAGASCAR

For wine…

South Africa is known all over the world for its wine, and there’s no better place to learn about its production (and taste the odd drop) than in Cape Town. The scenery on the way out to the city’s wineries is worth the drive alone – think row-upon-row of green vineyards punctuated by heritage Cape Dutch manor houses. Some of Cape Town’s vineyards are often destinations in their own right, with accommodation, restaurants, art galleries, spas and, of course, tasting rooms. If you’re short on time, make a beeline for Groot Constantia and the Vergelegen Estate, two of the city’s most iconic wineries.

For beaches...

The island nation of Madagascar has more kilometres of seafront than any other African nation (including Mauritius) – think pure white, floursoft sand and clear blue-green waters. There’s a beach for everyone, too, including small children, snorkellers, divers, surfers, kite-surfers, jet-skiers, Omura whale spotters (the rarest species on the planet) and boat lovers. When you’re done with beautiful beaches (as if), picnic near Baobab trees, where crowned lemurs frolic about, or visit local villages to meet the Antakarana people.

For safari...

You don’t have to travel far from the capital to go on a game drive in South Africa, making it the perfect bed fellow for wine touring. Just an hour from Cape Town is Buffelsfontein Game & Nature Reserve, a cattle ranch where you can see four of the Big Five; travel one hour further, to Aquila Private Game Reserve, and the Big Five (lion, buffalo, rhino, elephant, leopard) await. Bucks, baboons, over 250 species of birds and Cape mountain zebra can also be seen in the region.

Where to stay: The Cape Grace Hotel sits proudly on the V&A waterfront. Rooms are elegant and stylish with balconies overlooking the water, perfect for your morning coffee or evening glass of wine.

The hotel bar houses the largest collection of whiskey in the southern hemisphere.

For safari...

Most safaris in Madagascar take place in Masoala National Park in the northeast of the country. Ten species of lemur can be found here, as well as leaf-tailed geckos, chameleons of all sizes, and spectacular birds, including the rare red owl and tomato frog. The park can be entered with or without a vehicle; once inside, half-day and full-day hikes are the best way to see the park at your own pace.

Where to stay: Time + Tide Miavana opened in 2017 with just 14 luxury villas dotted along a pristine stretch of beach facing the Indian Ocean. Each villa has a private pool overlooking the sea, two bathrooms, a study, a comfortable lounge and the services of a private butler. The property organises its own safari tours with four different itineraries to choose from.

Ngorongoro, Tanzania © Shannon Litt

“For a sunset climb, head to Dune 45 and watch the sky turn from orange to pink to star-studded.”

“If you’re short on time, make a beeline for Groot Constantia and the Vergelegen Estate, two of the city’s most iconic wineries.”

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AFRICA

AFRICA HOW TO DO IT

Zimbabwe

South Africa

• Victoria Falls www.victoriafallstourism.org

• Groot Constantia www.grootconstantia.co.za

• Victoria Falls Safari Club www.africaalbidatourism.com

• Vergelegen Wine Estate www.vergelegen.co.za

Namibia

• Cape Grace Hotel www.capegrace.com

• Sossusvlei www.sossusvlei.org • Etosha National Park www.etoshanationalpark.org • Damaraland Camp www.wilderness-safaris.com

Tanzania • Zanzibar Tourism www.zanzibartourism.go.tz • Baraza Resort & Spa www.baraza-zanzibar.com

• Buffelsfontein Game & Nature Reserve www.buffelsfontein.co.za • Aquila Private Game Reserve www.aquilasafari.com

Madagascar • Office National du Tourisme de Madagascar www.madagascar-tourisme.com/en/ • Time + Tide Miavana www.timeandtideafrica.com/camp/ miavana

Image: © Justine de Gennes

TANZANIA For history…

Tanzania’s capital, Zanzibar, is a fascinating place for history buffs. Wander around Stone Town - a UNESCO World Heritage Site where time seems to have stood still - and stop at Livingstone’s House (where Dr David Livingstone lived before commencing his last journey to the mainland), The Peace Memorial Museum (to see artefacts from the country’s history), The Arab Fort and the sobering slave market, where slaves were sold until as late as 1873. Stone Town is also where legend Freddie Mercury was born, now himself immortalised in history.

You can’t enter Mercury House, the house that he was born in, but can take photographs of the outside – and pay your respects.

For safari...

Located in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area – itself a UNESCO World Heri-

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tage Site since 1978 - Ngorongoro’s 600-metre-deep, 19-km-wide blue-green crater is home to 30,000 large mammals, including elephants, rhinos, wildebeests and lions. The crater was formed two to three million years ago when a volcano exploded and collapsed in on itself. Game drives in the area take place inside Ngorongoro National park which has the world’s highest density of lions and Africa’s highest density of mammal predators, making for thrilling game drives - and guaranteed sightings.

Where to stay: The Baraza Resort & Spa is an all-inclusive five-star property set on its own stretch of private beach just one hour from Zanzibar airport.

Designed like a sultan’s palace, each of the property’s 30 individual villas is resplendent in white and gold; large terraces have plunge pools and pathways leading to your spot on the beach.

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Image: Bazara Resort & Spa, Tanzania

Image: © David Clode

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GREECE

GREECE

PELION

Think quaint traditional villages, mesmerising beaches and cobalt coloured water…

Welcome to Pelion, the most beautiful Greek mountain you’ll come across.

WORDS BY SARAH RODRIGUES

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GREECE

GREECE

F

rival even more of a triumph, especially out of high season, when whole swathes of sand are under your sole command but the sun is still blazing and the water, still blissfully refreshing.

This is the eastern side of the Pelion peninsula, an area on Greece’s mainland all but undiscovered by island-hopping travellers. Flights to its most accessible airport, Volos, are largely limited to the summer months, meaning that out of season, travellers from outside of the country must tackle a four-hour drive from Athens or Thessaloniki - a drive that only those who have done it before will know is absolutely worthwhile.

As our oars slice into the waters of this sheltered bay, however, we’re offered a glimpse of one of the greatest reasons to tackle the walk: the Secret School, tucked high into the rocks above the beach. During the Turkish occupation, this is where monks kept the Orthodox religion alive, teaching its precepts to young students. Concentrating on study with that staggering view beyond the cave’s mouth would be beyond many - although, I’m told, on a clear day, the über-holy Mount Athos looms against the horizon, a hulking admonition against distraction. Meanwhile, a few metres below us, stalactites tooth their way down from the ceiling of another cave, in which a 17th century monk lived, unaccompanied other than by an icon of the Virgin Mary Megalomata.

olds of green fall right down to the sea, a sea so full of shifting blues that it calls to mind Caribbean travel brochures. Where it laps the quartz pebble beaches, it’s the milkiest of turquoises, flat rocks clearly visible on its bed. Further out, darker shades of cerulean, sapphire and lapis are broken by jagged rocks; when we swim out to these and scramble to their high edges, the water below is so transparent that the rocks beneath look stomach-lurchingly near in the split second before we jump.

Pelion’s landscape is extraordinary: a rugged slate mountain range, reaching 1651m at its highest point, it’s thickly forested by plane and chestnut trees and in winter, there’s a small but perfectly formed ski resort at Agriolefkes, boasting 337m of vertical descent along with incredible views of the Aegean. In autumn, the trees transform the mountains into a blazing display of reds and golds, under the canopy of which locals forage for chestnuts, walnuts and mushrooms.

The leafy canvas is punctuated, here and there, by squat stone houses proudly surveying their surroundings. Many are abandoned, in varying states of ruin, sparking every conceivable purchase and refurb fantasy. Close up, their angled roofs, tiled in flat grey stones, are reminiscent of fish scales.

Fishing used to be the primary activity in Damouchari; these days, this postcard-glorious beach village is better known as the backdrop to one of the scenes from Mamma Mia, which was largely filmed on the nearby islands of Skiathos and Skopelos. A kayaking trip (www.shakayak.gr) from this starting point takes us around the area’s secret bays and beaches; we discover a freshwater spring, flowing directly into the sea, caves so huge that we can paddle right into them and, further on, the idyllic Fakistra Beach. Like most of the beaches on this side of the peninsula, access on foot is via steep staircases and narrow paths, a fact that makes ar-

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Our base from which to explore the area is The Lost Unicorn Hotel (www.lostunicornhotel.gr), just off the main square of Tsagarada. Draped in ivy, its outside terraces hosting a profusion of potted plants and flowers, and with a roofless treehouse nestled in branches at its far end, it’s a bewitching sight, even without the mythical connotation of its namesake.

Under the wheels of our cases, the cobbled footpath that leads to the entrance judders an announcement of our arrival. These paths - kalderimia, ancient donkey tracks via which all travel, trade and communication was effected prior to the advent of paved roads in the region - wind steeply through the area, linking villages, squares and beaches. It is these which, to some extent, lend Pelion its distinct appeal: Greece is practically synonymous with beaches, but here there is the potential for combining these, if desired, with exploratory walking.

And so, after a stupendous Lost Unicorn breakfast (which starts with cereals and yoghurts and is swiftly followed by an array of cooked delights) we set out towards Damouchari via these kalderimia. Our walk takes us past the adjacent Agia Paraskevi, with its church and plane tree - allegedly the oldest in all of Greece but in any case, certainly so impossibly huge that one of its sprawling boughs is propped

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up by a concrete pillar - and onwards via a wilful looking goat, thickly wooded areas and stone villas. By Agia Kyriaki, there’s an 18th century church and stone bell tower; a little way back along the path, we’d passed a chapel so tiny that its bell was innovatively suspended from a nearby tree.

The hike is steep, in parts - and the unevenness of the terrain adds to the workout - but a crude detour from the path shortly before we start the angled descent into Damouchari offers a chance to catch our breath, as well as an uninterrupted perspective of the unique terrain, thickly blanketed with lush greenery and falling in gentle pleats until it meets the sea, the sea in which we are soon to be cooling off. An elderly local speaks of how he used to make this hour-long walk most days after school; a post-bell treat made no less alluring by the prospect of the return, largely uphill, trek.

On another morning, we turn left out of the hotel, away from the plane tree. Beyond the nearby schools, the path leads up to a tiny chapel, after which our surroundings take on an almost jungle-like aspect, slashed with rocky gorges and draped with dangling vines. Overheard, the canopy is so dense that the sun barely penetrates it, and fronds and grasses twine around our legs. We pause at the Serpentin Garden (www.serpentin-garden.com), presided over by long-time Pelion resident Doris Schlepper, a German woman who, having restored one of the earliest farmhouses in the region, transformed its vast and wild surrounding land into a garden, now open to the public. Tall trees spike upwards, an abundance of roses perfume the air along with a froth of countless blooms and plants - all of which is enhanced by the seeming randomness of the garden’s design, in which fountains, ponds, trellises, staircases, glasshouses and found objects create enjoyable surprises at every turn, as do the variety of views out over the Aegean.

Our walk ends in Agioi Taxiarches Square: at one end of this, beyond the inevitable plane tree, lies the Church of the Archangels, which boasts wonderful paintings and extraordinary acoustics due, allegedly, to a series of inverted earthen jars on the roof and five underground wells.

As joyful as walking and discovery is, as delightful as the sudden flashes of blue when the foliage parts, as refreshing

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as the taking of a frappé in a square, use of the kalderimia means much more: it means actively participating in their preservation. Just as one sees crumbling houses here, choked with vegetation, so too have several kalderimia been lost to the advance of herbage and, in some areas, development and just as the paths lace together villages and squares, they also connect the present day to Greek heritage and to the meticulous, backbreaking work of ancient artisans.

Links with the past come also by way of a charming narrow gauge steam train, affectionately dubbed Moutzouris (literally, something that turns things black) which sets out from Ano Lehonia and crosses six gorges on its winding route up towards the mountain village of Milies. It’s on the Ano Lehonia side of the peninsula too, where water babies will find boundless out-of-season enjoyment, with the land all but enclosing the Pagasetic Gulf and helping to retain its warmth year-round.

This region was known, historically, as the playground of the gods and the home of the centaurs, and demands, therefore, to be experienced in appropriately magnificent and exhilarating ways. With the mountain so generous in its distribution of deep canyons and epic waterfalls, we head to Mountain Escapes (www.mountainescapes.gr), located less than a mile from The Lost Unicorn, and are soon clad in full-body neoprene in readiness for a day of adventure. On roped descents down waterfall cliffs, we release from our rappels and allow the force of the flow to propel us, like natural waterslides, downwards into deep pools; hiking through vertical rocks, we jump into the river, swimming to the next point from which we’ll plunge into the waters at which centaurs once slaked their thirst.

As for the quenching of our thirst- well, how perfectly appropriate it is to be later ensconced in the leafy and lightfilled conservatory of The Lost Unicorn, drinking Mythos beer. Myth, legend and romance are woven into every aspect of this compelling Greek destination: a few nights later, when we see dolphins cresting the waves under the light of a full moon down at Mylopotamos Beach, it’s no stretch to imagine that they are drawing Poseidon on a chariot behind them.

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DESTINATION UK

DESTINATION UK

10 QUIRKY PLACES TO STAY IN THE UK Whether it’s a church, a lighthouse, a train carriage, a treehouse or a yurt, it seems that you can bed down anywhere these days. Jo Gardner goes in search of the UK’s quirkiest places to stay.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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DESTINATION UK

DESTINATION UK Sally Port Lighthouse, Cornwall

Champing, Northamptonshire

Treehouse Hideaway, Kent

www.ruralretreats.co.uk

www.visitchurches.org.uk

www.kent-cottage-holidays.co.uk

For a proper edge-of-the-world escape, you can’t beat a lighthouse – Sally Port Lighthouse is situated at the most southerly point of the Roseland Peninsula with cracking views in all directions. The accommodation couldn’t be more private, reached via a steep path leading down to the rocks from the headland and car park.

There is an observation room with large windows - perfect for watching the waves with a cup of coffee or glass of wine - and two cosy bedrooms complete with ear plugs to muffle the occasional blast of a fog horn. And if you fancy rejoining society at any point, the gorgeous villages of St Mawes and Portscatho are a short drive away.

First there was glamping (glamorous + camping) now there’s champing (churches + camping), the holy grail (literally, perhaps) of quirky places to stay. Yes, churches are opening their doors to overnight guests and All Saints Church, in the picturesque Northamptonshire village of Aldwincle, offers the rare chance to see its beautiful limestone arcades and arches up close while bedding down for the night. Guests get exclusive use of the church (minimum two people) during the night with breakfast delivered in the morning, the ideal fuel for a day of walking into the nearby countryside. The church can also organise peaceful canoe trips down the River Nene. Amen to that, we say.

Nestled six metres off the ground amongst willows, conifers and fruit trees, this rural retreat is crafted almost entirely from driftwood gathered on a local beach. It consists of two hexagonal pods joined together and sits upon two tree trunk pedestals. Unlike the treehouses you may have enjoyed as a child, this one has plenty of mod cons and little luxuries, including a hamper and bubbly on arrival, a private hot tub, under-floor heating and a log burning stove. Come evening, cook dinner on the Chiminea BBQ before settling down to a movie courtesy of Sky TV. Treehouse Hideaway is located in the village of Blean, equidistant from the pretty seaside town of Whitstable and the bustling city of Canterbury.

www.solentforts.com Grab your glad rags, jump into your private boat and make like a Bond Girl to one of the remote forts in Hampshire’s beautiful Solent, a stretch of water that positively froths with naval history. Once functional coastal defences, these forts are now uber-luxe havens. Choose either No Man’s Fort - with its Officers Mess, huge atrium, Cabaret Bar and room for up to 200 guests - or smaller Spitbank Fort – designed for 60 guests. Once the bubbles are poured, ease yourself into the roof-top hot

Wind in the Willows, Norfolk

Anne’s Hut, Wales

Showman’s Wagon, Wales

www.eastrustoncottages.co.uk

www.ruralretreats.co.uk

www.ruralretreats.co.uk

Embrace your inner hippy at Wind in the Willows, a cute-as-a-button, purpose-built Shepherd’s Hut accommodating two guests, plus two small (or one medium-sized) dog - this is Norfolk after all. Located in a quiet corner of North East Norfolk – with patchy mobile signal ensuring a peaceful stay – the hut is positioned near several pristine beaches and woods. Built by a local craftsman, Wind in the Willows has been decorated in vintage folk style, with gingham curtains, red loom chairs, stained glass windows, a real wood fire and a small veranda for watching the setting sun. Fling open the stable door and let nature in. The paddock is set in open countryside – grab fresh eggs from the chicken coop for breakfast.

Tranquillity found: Anne’s is a striking jade green hut set amongst the greenery of the Wye Valley. There are actually two huts linked by a decked patio; the main area housing the living room, bedroom and modern kitchen – with wood floors, cream tongue-and-groove walls, wood burning stove (you’ll find wood underneath the hut) and a modern kitchen with Belfast sink. You’ll find the bathroom - with double ended bath, loo and walk-in shower – in the second hut. The outside is as well thought-out as the inside, with a hammock, barbecue, fire pit, tables and chairs, and fluffy blankets. Listen to evening birdsong while turning sausages on the barbecue, then snuggle up by the fire pit and watch the stars.

Fans of the fair will love this 1950s converted travelling fairground van located in the southern reaches of Snowdonia National Park. Complete with bunting, 1950s signs and a whole load of vintage chic, guests (it accommodates two) will find a double bed, lounge with wood-burning stove, central heating (yep), shower room, galley kitchen and dining area in an area spanning 33sq metres. Outside, there’s a pretty garden providing the perfect spot for morning coffee or evening sundowners with views of the estuary. Fire up the small gas barbecue and cook to your heart’s content. For days out, the market town of Dolgellau and the popular seaside down of Barmouth are a short drive away.

www.ruralretreats.co.uk (but keeping one eye on) children.

Guests have exclusive use of the outdoor hot tub, accommodating five guests, as well as a private garden area where toddlers can safely roam.

The yurt is set in on a small working farm with country lanes leading to small villages.

House in the Clouds, Suffolk www.houseintheclouds.co.uk The House in the Clouds is exactly that: a thin, tall, five-storey house seemingly reaching up into the sky.

It’s as absurd as it is aesthetically pleasing, and known country-wide for its quirkiness. Accommodation is delightfully topsy-turvy with the kitchen and dining room on the ground floor, the bedrooms and bathrooms on floors two, three and four and the games room on the top floor. Head up the winding spiral steps from here – with resting points at various stages - and step out onto

the open air balcony which offers sweeping views over Suffolk from all sides. Thorpeness itself is a quaint town in Suffolk with a large lake, a bistro-style pub, a café and an antiques shop.

Long Hill Carriage, Somerset www.longhillcarriage.co.uk Once the third carriage on the Great Western Railway’s route from Lancashire to Yorkshire – stopping in 1927 - this beautifully-restored carriage is now a stylish place to stay.

Nestled in a cottage garden in the tiny hilltop village of Cucklington on the borders of Somerset, Dorset and Wiltshire - it’s the perfect hideaway for two. Despite being built in 1882, the décor inside is distinctly 1950s retro with a living room filled with light through 20 (yes 20) windows, a wood burner and

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pool and enjoy the astounding views.

Elsewhere there are saunas, spas and, most importantly, no neighbours, so the party can continue into the early hours.

Ash Yurt, Sussex Whether you love or hate the hot pink carpet in this double-storey yurt you won’t be able to fault the amount of effort that has gone into making this temporary structure feel like home – think squashy sofas, Douglas fir rafters, plush carpets, bathroom with under-floor heating, and an integral kitchen with dishwasher and washing machine. The yurt sleeps five people, with a double bedroom downstairs and a cute sleeping area on the upstairs mezzanine level, perfect for separating

Image by Chris Stafford

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Solent Forts, Hampshire

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compact kitchen. Step out through the double doors onto the ‘platform’ to enjoy a drink with a view over the Blackmore Vale. The attached 1950s goods wagon doubles up as a comfy double bedroom and bathroom.

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SWEDEN

SWEDEN

WEST SWEDEN

Island hopping is the perfect way to discover Bohuslän’s fantastic archipelago. Spend some time exploring salt sprayed granite rocks, picturesque fishing villages and classic seafood restaurants.

Image: Roger Borgelid/Westsweden.com

WORDS BY GARETH DAVIES

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SWEDEN

SWEDEN

T

he fun started in Fjällbacka harbour on the west coast of Sweden. They whisked us across to the Väderöarna, a scatter of islands too small for many maps, at James Bond pace in 25 minutes.

gently sloping walls of granite bedrock. 3000 years ago Bronze Age craftsmen smothered every available surface with intriguing carvings. Picked out in red paint, they are funny, inventive, and sometimes baffling – strange boats, carts, animals and a whale.

From flat-out fury, our boat’s speed fell in an instant to a slow crawl as we reached the tiny jetty. For the next 48 hours we didn’t go faster than 2 mph.

There are around 1,500 rock-carving sites in Northern Bohuslän.

The parish of Tanum alone contains 360. Many are connected by signposted paths trailing through the woods. The splendid Vitlycke Museum tells the story of this World Heritage Site in detail.

The Väderöarna (Weather Islands), population about 10, are too small and hilly for even a track, let alone a car. Our progress around the principal one was mainly by jumping from rock to rock, and climbing the grassy hills to glimpse basking seals.

These are the most westerly of the 8000 little islands pebble-dashed along the Bohuslän Archipelago, 125 quiet miles of fjords and inlets stretching from Gothenburg to the Norwegian border.

Before this trip I used to mentally bookmark Sweden under elegant design, linguistic skill and Ikea’s comical names for household items, as well as its bargain meatball menus. To my shame I had quite overlooked its fabulous rural peace.

We had flown to Gothenburg the day before. London City Airport, small and manageable, to the north of the city, promises quick getaways. So less than half an hour after landing we were bowling along on serenely empty roads, through rich farmland under wooded hills.

Efficient car ferries hurried us across the occasional river that stood in the way in minutes. We passed through the occasional little town, neat huddles of low houses with colourful roofs, a quay, some good seafood restaurants and a few small hotels.

Our first night was in Fjällbacka, the small town where Ingrid Bergman had a holiday home. There’s a statue of the radiant actress in the quay-side garden. We sampled a fittingly Bergman-esque romantic hideaway, the Hotel Strandflickornas in nearby Lysekil. They put us in one of the two waterside suites. In the late, late light of the Swedish midsummer evening we sat on our private jetty over the gently lapping waves, in a bay of pink granite rocks watching the eider ducks ride the tide. It hasn’t quite the same ring, but, in homage to Ingrid, we’ll always have Lysekil.

The next day we made that action-movie crossing from Fjällbacka to the most westerly of those many islands, the Väderöarna of my opening paragraph.

There is only one place to stay on Väderöarna, the Väderöarnas Pensionat, After our hop round the island, we returned there for afternoon tea, set outside on the jetty. The waterside outdoor hot tub was steamily enticing.

Technically the Pensionat is a no-stars-at-all accommodation. You reach the shared toilets and showers on creaky wooden floors. But it was neat and comfy, and its other virtues are beyond any conventional hotel star rating.

You won’t find seaside peace much deeper than this. Our bedroom had a dreamy view over a serene little inlet. We watched the terns spear into the harbour water for fish before our excellent dinner of local seafood.

Solitude is a precious asset in Sweden. Swedish University researchers recently claimed to have proved the stress-busting attributes of this serene landscape of islands and inlets. They invited five people in stressful jobs to spend 72 hours in glass-sided cabins. The readings they took after these calming breaks showed significant anxiety reductions. Now the cabins are available for anyone to hire.

Back on the mainland, but still on the coast, our next call was to one of the world’s earliest open-air art galleries, in the woods at Tanum.

The retreating ice cap left a landscape of thousands of scraped-clean,

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The Tourist Board suggests a seven day itinerary, which includes places to stay, island-hopping, bicycle trips on lonely roads, miles of good wild walking, and kayaking excursions.

You can even join a fishing boat to gather the exquisite local shellfish, a feature in most restaurants.

Bohuslän is quiet enough to make driving a rare pleasure, on new and, during our visit, almost empty motorways. One service station offered a three mile guided path into the woods, as if to offset our non-existent driving stress. (If you aren’t driving there are good bus and train services back to Gothenburg.)

It was time for another island. Once again we left our car on the mainland, at the small port of Strömstad, then made the 50 minute ferry crossing to the Koster Islands. There you define traffic chaos as two cyclists meeting at a remote countryside crossroads, unsure who goes first.

We spent a day of easy pedalling (local hotels offer free bikes) around this car-free utopia, on tracks snaking through fields and woods. We crept up on yellowhammers and wheatears, then diverted to tranquil bays and harbours.

© Lukasz Warzecha/Westsweden.com © Roger Borgelid/Westsweden.com

From the island’s only hill, opposite a white, wooden church, we looked over dozens of islets, part of Sweden’s first marine nature reserve, designated in 2009. Lunch was in the café at nearby Kosters Trädgårdar, recently given “Taste of West Sweden” listing, where they grow everything on the menu.

See, too, the attractive coastal resort town of Marstrand with its venerable fortress and shops in old wooden buildings. Last call on your return to Gothenburg.

Later, two things broke the deep peace of the long, light Scandinavia night. First the ferry, regular lifeline to the mainland.

Then a rare rumpus. But, watching from our balcony, how could we berate these noisy neighbours? To even hear a cuckoo is rare enough these days. To actually see two together, calling and flying around on the island opposite, was a wonder.

Our island tally was still only three in six days. At this rate, it would take 11 years to visit them all. But there was time to slip in one more.

We took the ferry from Rönnäng, on the mainland, and glided up to the little rocky island of Åstol. At the harbour mouth we passed the lively fish restaurant, Åstols Rökeri - another from Taste of West Sweden’s list - close enough for people to have shouted out their orders in the days before mobile phones.

A few minutes later they were serving us local shellfish in mountainous proportions. (The only snag is that you do not even look at the wine list, so strict are the drink driving laws). The mood music was recorded blues. That evening it would be live jazz.

www.vastsverige.com/en/bohuslan/island-hopping/

FIND OUT MORE Bohuslän Tourist Board www.vastsverige.com/en/bohuslan WHERE TO STAY: © Jonas Ingman/Westsweden.com

Väderöarnas Pensionat www.vaderoarna.com/en Hotel Strandflickorna www.strandflickorna.com/en WHERE TO EAT:

Half way into the meal, the owner Leif hurried to our table.

‘Quick, just 20 seconds to go. You must see this.’ Trailing in his wake, we were in time to see our host clank open a massive oven door to reveal ranks of freshly smoked prawns. It was appropriately dramatic, as Leif and his wife Pia were professional actors. Leif led us back to our table. The blues played on.

Åstol Rökeri www.en.astolsrokeri.se HOW TO GET THERE: Budget flights to Gothenburg, or go by train www.thetrainline.com/trains/europe

We assumed that was it for the afternoon, and we were part of their final act. But Leif and Pia slipped in another scene, the enthusiastic arrival of a group of office workers on an away-day. They had zinged across from Gothenburg in double quick time on fast rubber dingies.

We left them to the smoked prawns and took the little ferry back to the mainland. Then the easy dawdle through wide-open West Sweden back to that helpfully out of town airport.

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CHINA

CHINA

BEIJING VS SHANGHAI

Beijing and Shanghai are both buzzing cities that attract thousands of visitors every year, but they couldn’t be more different. Jo Gardner bats one against the other for attractions, food & drink and hotels.

A TALE OF TWO CITIES

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WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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Image: Ling Tang

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CHINA

CHINA SHANGHAI BEIJING A city with its roots firmly in the past, Beijing is now racing towards the future - the result is a glorious juxtaposition of past and present with Ming dynasty architecture sitting cheek by jowl with Michelin-star restaurants.

Attractions

Food & Drink

Hotels

There are so many things to see (and marvel at) in Beijing, you’ll need a week to get round it all. Make sure you spend a few hours at Tiananmen Square where the 1989 massacre took place, a sobering reminder of China’s chequered history. Tiananmen Tower, The Monument to the People’s Heroes, the Great Hall of the People and The Chairman Mao Zedong Memorial Hall are all here, too, each worthy of a look around. Don’t miss the national flag raising ceremony which takes place each day before sunrise.

Food in China is very different from what comes from our local takeaway at the weekend but there is one constant: Peking Roast Duck. These thin pancakes filled with shredded duck and topped with plum sauce are a Beijing staple, not least because Beijing was once called Peking. Hua’s Restaurant is a Peking Duck institution in a typical Chinese building (red lanterns and all) that has hosted presidents from all over the world. For something less formal, find a street cart and order a duck pancake – you’ll pay about 10 pence and won’t be disappointed.

Arguably the grandest place to stay in the city is The Peninsula Beijing, a stylish five-star property that’s on the top of its game after a £101 million refurbishment. Located near Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, the hotel has a well-revered restaurant, a spa with a focus on Chinese wellbeing, a sexy black indoor pool and a luxury shopping arcade.

Other Beijing attractions include the Forbidden City - the Chinese imperial palace from 1420 to 1912 – The Summer Palace – once the imperial garden of the Qing dynasty with its lakes, gardens and palaces – and, of course, the iconic Great Wall of China which was built during the Ming dynasty. A walk along the wall is a once-in-a-lifetime experience – join a full- or half-day tour from Beijing.

For a more recent snapshot of the city, visit the Beijing National Stadium, a piece of modern architecture know as The Bird’s Nest because of its woven design.

In a city that eats dog and rat (we know), it’s surprising to find so much vegetarian food on offer, particularly on the streets.

Find a barbecue cart and order skewers of courgettes doused in chilli or a combination of mushroom and crispy tofu.

Celebrating an occasion? Around 20 of Beijing’s restaurants have been awarded a Michelin star – head to Azur at The Shangri La for oysters, Din Tai Fung for steamed buns, Da Dong for roast duck and Madam Goose for noodles and dumplings.

For something less high-end – but no less understated - the minimalist Opposite House feels more like a modern art space than a hotel (think white flowing fabrics, natural wood floors and lots of glass). Dine at the Spanish/Italian restaurant which attracts diners from all over the city. Beijing also has a Shangri La, Rosewood, Bulgari and Four Seasons.

If your budget won’t stretch to any of these, try The Courtyard House, a B&B with real charm. Borrow a bike, play a game of Chinese checkers and eat lunch in the courtyard restaurant. Come evening, grab a cheap beer from the fridge and get to know your fellow guests in the sunny courtyard.

Once known as the ‘Paris of the East’ Shanghai is China’s most cosmopolitan and influential city, where modern skyscrapers blend with traditional buildings and designer shops sit next to 100-year-old family outlets selling herbal medicines.

Attractions

Food & Drink

Hotels

Shanghai is extremely spread out; the metro system insanely efficient - buy a day, weekend or week-long pass and hop on and off to your heart’s content.

A good place to start is Zhujiajiao, an ancient water village lined with ancient buildings adorned with Chinese lanterns.

Besides taking lots of pictures, visitors can shop, eat street food and visit temples. When it gets a bit much, duck into the 400-year-old Yuyuan Garden - with its streams, pavilions and open courtyards - and rebalance that Zen.

Food in China is very different from From cheap and cheerful to cutting-edge, Shanghai does food. The local dish is Xiaolongbao (steamed soup dumplings) - dip one in the soy vinegar, take a small bite, taste the soup to determine how hot it is and, if you can hack the heat, chow down the rest of the dumpling. It’s quite an art – get some practice in at a street hawker before heading to a restaurant to show off your new-found skills.

Like Beijing, Shanghai has a Peninsular hotel that’s just as spectacular – think terraces with telescopes, iPad room controls and Art Deco flourishes reminiscent of Shanghai in the 1920s (even the ‘bell boys’ wear pitted hats). After a day in the heat of the city, cool off in the 25-metre pool with its impressive ceiling allowing shards of natural light to make ripples on the water.

A good way to get your bearings is to head up the new Shanghai Tower, the city’s tallest building at 632 metres and 128 storeys. Head up to the observation deck and take it all in.

Shanghai’s nightlife is second-to-none: start the evening at The Bund, an area of skyscrapers, restaurants and bars on the other side of the river which twinkle in the water after dark – even the bridge straddling the river changes colour at night.

For clubbing, M1NT is a must, not least for its internal aquarium housing sharks (yes, sharks) and incredible city views.

The only restaurant in the city with three Michelin stars is Ultraviolet, a dining experience that’s part theatre (you are taken from a meeting point to a secret location where music, smells and imagery are part of the fanfare), part food (20 courses of culinary alchemy including rock oysters and truffle burnt soup bread).

Book M on the Bund for rooftop dining that serves a hybrid of European, North African and Australian dishes, as well as cool cocktails.

For something really different – but anything but cheap – book Amanyangyun, a series of converted villas from the Ming and Qing dynasties set around a courtyard. The property offers a glimpse into Shanghai of yesteryear (wooden latticework, black stone) combined with 21st century comforts (impressive spa, indoor and outdoor pools, Italian restaurant).

Prefer something more casual? The Commune Social – a tapas restaurant opened by English chef Jason Atherton - has a refreshing ‘no reservation, no service charge’ policy.

For boutique chic, look no further than URBN, a design hotel made entirely from locally-sourced wood and reclaimed grey bricks from old homes in the city.

BEIJING

Image: Marc Olivier Jodoin

HOW TO DO IT

• China National Tourism Office +44 20 7373 0888 | www.cnto.org.uk • Hua’s Restaurant +86 10 5128 3315 | www.huajiacai.com • Azur +86 10 6841 2211 | www.shangri-la.com

Image: Debbie Tea

• Din Tai Fung +86 10 6533 1536 • Da Dong Roast Duck +86 10 5169 0329 • The Peninsula Beijing +86 10 8516 2888 | www.peninsula.com • The Opposite House +86 10 6417 6688 | www.theoppositehouse.com • Sitting on the City Walls Courtyard House +86 10 64027805 | www.sitting-on-the-city-walls-courtyard-house.hotels-beijing-ch.com/en/

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The city also has a Ritz-Carlton, a Mandarin Oriental, a Hyatt and a St. Regis for people wishing to stay in familiar brands.

SHANGHAI • The Bund +86 21 22869999 • M1nt +86 21 6391 2811 | www.m1ntglobal.com • Ultraviolet www.uvbypp.cc • M on the Bund +86 21 6350 9988 | www.m-restaurantgroup.com • The Commune Social +86 21 6047 7638 | www.communesocial.com • Shanghai Peninsula +86 21 2327 2888 | www.peninsula.com

• Amanyangyun +86 21 8011 9999 | www.aman.com/amanyangyun • URBN +86 21 51534600

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USA

USA

STEP BACK INTO THE 18TH CENTURY IN

CHARLESTON WORDS BY GEOFF MOORE

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USA

USA

L

ocated on the Ashley and Cooper rivers on USA’s East Coast - Charleston’s wide city scape view is as broad as the welcoming smiles its visitors receive.

It was the place where the United States Civil War started and that first battle at nearby Fort Sumter where a 34 hour bombardment miraculously left no casualties on either side.

However also important for Charleston visitors now was that many towns and cities in the South were destroyed during the vicious war that followed but those pre Civil war wooden and clapper board houses were also not casualties and provide the city with a first class historic centre to enthral and marvel at today.

Apart from the cars and some modern technology you are back in the 18th century. Touring the intact cobbled streets and the well preserved grand and humble housing stock of the old harbour side is a great historical experience.

Located in what is called the ‘Lowcountry’, Charleston was founded under Charles I, and later further developed under Charles II into a key port and trading city. However, it was the city that was responsible for importing around 40% of all the African slaves into the USA before slavery was abolished. Its key exports of cotton and indigo left the city heading mainly to the UK northern powerhouse of cotton production, Lancashire.

Today Charleston is a city of charm with a very busy tourism economy as it attracts a whole range of visitors.

Food is one area where the city is strong. Around the main centre and outskirts there are a large number of top restaurants providing modern cuisine for those searching for culinary comfort.

The Belmond Hotel Group have a delightful offering at the Charleston Grill located on its ground floor. A cellar of very fine wine, including Pétrus, with other fine vintages and ports too.

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“Shopping streets like King Street that run alongside the Bennett Hotel are popular and within walking distance you will find numerous eateries from high end to the more traditional US diner types.”

The recently opened Hotel Bennett is a 179 room establishment perfectly located on Marion Square. Its owner Michael Bennett had been working on the project for over 20 years and even had to go to the Supreme Court for the final say so.

It has just opened in April 2019.

The hotel is at the luxury end of the accommodation sector. It has great views over the city and a delightful rooftop swimming pool ideal for cooling off as peak summer period temperatures can get to 100 degrees with 100% humidity.

Spring and late autumn are probably the best times to visit and currently with British Airways introducing two direct flights a week from London Heathrow between April and October makes it a perfect long weekend break, and even for longer stays as the surrounding area has numerous places to visit.

Museums covering many areas of interest from that iconic Fort Sumter and its key role in the history of the USA to the Gibbes Museum of Art full of local and ethnic art plus there is the Old Slave Mart Museum and even a museum dedicated to the first submarine to sink a ship. The Hunley submarine was discovered back in 1995 and raised in 2000 with many artefacts found aboard. It sank after the incident with all hands and you can see a forensic reconstruction of the eight crew.

Slave and slavery history is dealt with very openly in South Carolina with many chances to learn more of that period.

Plantation properties and estates that were once a place of Caucasian elitism provide an insight into the history of both slave and slave owner. These magnificent manor type houses would not look out of place around Europe, like Middleton Place and Boone Hall that can be reached easily from Charleston.

Shopping streets like King Street that run alongside the Bennett Hotel are popular and within walking distance you will find numerous eateries from high end to the more traditional US diner types.

Further afield, about two hours’ drive away, is the boating, golfing and holiday island of Hilton Head Island. 13 miles long and shaped rather like a shoe. With stunning sandy beaches and dunes, award winning golf courses to tempt those that swing clubs for their relaxation.

A long market building is another escape from the sun. Here many souvenirs, local foods and coffee are on offer. The Untied States Custom House building nearby was built before and completed after the Civil war.

The history of the slaves and their culture are much remembered today by the Gullah community that abounds in South Carolina. The language, culture and art forms of those brought to the USA from West Africa are very present.

There is also the chance of meeting some local wildlife as it’s not unusual for golfers to be joined on the courses by the odd alligator or two. But not to worry the Royal and Ancient rules of golf do allow a free drop should one be in the way of your play!

There are many from this community who engage with all the public and visitors at museums and plantations to tell stories and bring to life those that were once slaves. The making and weaving of sweetgrass baskets, painting and the spoken word help to educate visitors with performances and song.

There are boating trips of all kinds including a chance to sail on a former Americas Cup 12 metre yacht ‘Stars and Stripes’ or a more leisurely and less physically challenging dolphin spotting trip with the team from Vagabond Cruises based at Harbour Town resort on the island.

A city that started off under one King Charles was transferred and developed by another, then lost, but regained by the British for just two years only to be lost by them again and it has been kept by the US ever since!

If you fancy a higher altitude challenge then there is a chance to experience a tree top zip line run by Zipline Hilton Head. The 8 linked zip lines will have you zooming around the treetops for 2 hours. 70 feet above the ground at times.

Cycle and walking trails are all over the island and it’s one of the most popular tourist choices with literally seas of hire bikes at various points around the island.

Once back in Charleston the city has plenty of places to visit and explore on foot or by the very popular carriage rides.

You can best take in the colour and charm of Charleston’s historic quarter at Harborside and the old town.

It’s so easy to spend hours slowly walking around the streets lined with wooden and brick houses of that pre Civil war period.

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However the story of Charleston continues, and as the CEO of the Visitors Bureau, Helen Hill said; “We spent 150 years getting rid of the British and have now spent the last ten trying to get them back with British Airways now bringing in hundreds of Brits each week once more.”

Images: ©2015 DiscoverAmerica.com

The slogan for the state of South Carolina is ‘Just Right’ and that phrase certainly applies to the coastal city of Charleston too as it has so many things that are indeed just right! Its food, its history, its architecture, its warmth and its weather just to mention a few...

‘Just Right’ I say!

STAY Hotel Bennett - 404 King St, Charleston, SC 29403 +1 833-313-1798 | www.hotelbennett.com GETTING THERE British Airways is currently the only airline flying direct from London to Charleston.

Flights to Charleston depart two days a week from London Heathrow (LHR) all year round. Fly direct and land around 8 hours later at Charleston International Airport (CHS). www.britishairways.com

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MIDDLE EAST

MIDDLE EAST

A TALE OF THREE CITIES

AMMAN, CAIRO AND TEL AVIV

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Rich in history, the Middle Eastern countries of Israel, Jordan and Egypt draw thousands of visitors each year eager to see Wadi Rum, Petra, The Dead Sea, The Pyramids and Giza. But head to the country’s capitals – with their café culture, fantastic food and hip hotels - and you’ll find a city break with a difference WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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MIDDLE EAST

MIDDLE EAST

“Night owls will love the Stage One Lounge and Bar in the five-star Conrad Cairo Hotel which has has both views of the River Nile and live music most evenings.”

AMMAN, JORDAN

CAIRO, EGYPT

The youngest of the three cities, Jordan’s capital is an easy place to explore, with tree-lined streets, elegant houses, modern architecture, independent shops and a cosmopolitan vibe.

Cairo has arguably some of the world’s most iconic historical sites including pyramids and the Sphinx.

Home to 22 million inhabitants, Cairo has a positively buzzing energy.

SEE/DO

SEE/DO

Visit the Roman ruins and the remains of Neolithic, Ammonite, Assyrian, Persian and Ottoman civilisations before discovering the fascinating ruins at the Citadel, which is surrounded by mosques, souks and cafes. The ancient Roman Theatre is a must, too – come early in the morning or late at night to capture images of the sunrise or sunset. Art lovers should make a beeline for the Darat Al Funun contemporary art museum which exhibits work by Jordanian artists - this year sees the penultimate celebration of the museum’s 30th anniversary. Car enthusiasts will love the Royal Automobile Museum, too, which displays over 70 classic cars from King Hussein’s personal collection.

One of the best ways to capture panoramic views of the city is to head to the observation deck of the Cairo Tower - at 187 metres it’s the tallest structure in Egypt. For ancient artefacts, head to the Egyptian Museum which houses several collections. Built in 1814, the medieval Salah Ed-Din Citadel is another must-see with its mosques, carriage and garden museum. For something really different, charter a sail boat and glide along the River Nile; come evening, test your poker face or watch a belly dancing show at the Omar Khayyam Casino in the Cairo Marriott Hotel.

EAT/DRINK

Fresh flatbread is sold everywhere in Cairo – grab some warm pockets for breakfast or lunch on the go.

For more traditional Middle Eastern dishes, head to the 139 Restaurant in the Marriott Mena House hotel where you’ll be able to dine in view of the mighty pyramids. Celebrating a special occasion? The restaurant in the Cairo Tower is the perfect place to watch the setting sun. Night owls will love the Stage One Lounge and Bar in the five-star Conrad Cairo Hotel which has has both views of the River Nile and live music most evenings.

SLEEP W Amman is an ultra-cool five-star hotel nestled in the heart of Amman’s financial district with a bold, edgy design – think stark white contrasted with bright purples and oranges. Cool off at the stylish pool, enjoy a spa treatment or tuck into a delicious pan-Asian meal at Enso, where you can also dance the night away with some beautiful locals.

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SLEEP The five-star Marriott Mena House overlooks Giza’s great pyramids, providing spectacular views of these ancient marvels. The hotel is set across 40-acres, offering ample space and an abundance of lush greenery. Guests will find an outdoor pool, a spa and fitness centre, an authentic Italian restaurant and a Middle Eastern/Indian restaurant.

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Image credits (clockwise from top left): Arno Smit; Spencer Davis; Toa Heftiba; Eiliv Sonas Aceron

Al Quds and Hashem are Jordanian institutions frequented for a quick (and filling) meal of falafel, hummus and other mezze dishes. You’ll find locals of all walks of life here, including the royal family. For a taste of classic Jordanian cooking, head to Beit Sitti, a social enterprise run by three sisters who open their family home to hungry visitors. Cantaloupe is the best spot to watch the sunset with a cocktail in your hand, or try the bar’s second location in Abdali, a sports rooftop terrace overlooking modern, western Amman. For a special occasion, head to La Maison Verte, a classic French restaurant that’s very romantic.

EAT/DRINK

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MIDDLE EAST

MIDDLE EAST HOW TO DO IT AMMAN

• Marriott Cairo Hotel & Omar Khayyam Casino

• Darat Al Funun

16 Saray El Gezira St, 11211

13 Nadeem al Mallah Street, 11183

+20 2 27283000 | www.marriott.com

+ 962 6 464 3251 | www.daratalfunun.org • 139 Restaurant

TEL AVIV, ISRAEL With its sandy beaches, quirky cafes and easy-onthe-eye locals, Israel’s capital city is as historical as it is hip. Cool breezes and creative locals keep things fresh and exciting.

SEE/DO

Image: James Farmer

Tick off the main sites - Rabin Square, where Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin was assassinated; Old Jaffa, one of the oldest port cities in the world; and the Tel Aviv Museum of Art – before mooching around the neighbourhoods. Nachalat Binyamin is a traffic-free mall where live street music, and arts and craft stalls await; in the narrow streets of Neve Tzedek you’ll find colourful buildings and a burgeoning coffee culture. Don’t leave without finding a spot on the beach to watch a volleyball match – or just marvel at the sparkling sea.

• Royal Automobile Museum

Marriot Mena House Hotel, 6 Pyramids Rd, 12556

Al Hussein Public Parks, 11953

+20 2 33773222 | www.marriott.com

+962 6 541 1392 • Stage One Lounge & Bar • Al Quds Restaurant

Conrad Cairo Hotel, 1191 Cornich El Nil, 11511

8 King Al Hussein St

+20 2 25808000 | www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

+962 6 463 0168 TEL AVIV • Hashem

• Tel Aviv Museum of Art

Al-Amir Mohammed St, 11110

Sderot Sha’ul HaMelech 27

+962 6 463 6440

+972 3 6077020 | www.tamuseum.org.il

• Beit Sitti Restaurant

• Benedict

Start the day at Benedict, the first restaurant in the world to serve breakfast around the clock, and get your morning off to a zing with scrambled eggs in a tomato sauce with chilli peppers, onions, paprika, cayenne pepper and nutmeg. Farmer’s markets are another way to experience Tel Aviv’s innovative culinary choices - Carmel Market is where farmers and young entrepreneurs run cooking courses and demonstrations. For an evening meal, you can’t beat the fish shawarma at Joz ve Loz, a retro spot with mis-match furniture and a good selection of fruity wine. For a nightcap, head to 223, Israel’s first cocktail bar with a New York vibe.

16 Mohammad Ali Al Sa’di St, 11191

Ben Yehuda 171

+962 7 7755 7744 | www.beitsitti.com

+972 3 686 8657 | www.benedict.co.il/en

• Cantaloupe Gastro Pub

• Carmel Market

Rainbow Str., 1 Juqa Str. 10, 1110

HaCarmel St 48

+962 7 7000 0717 | www.cantaloupe.jo

https://en.shuktlv.co.il

• La Maison Verte

• Joz ve Loz

SLEEP

59 Abd Al Hameed Badees St

5 Gvulot St

The five-star Royal Beach Tel Aviv – from the Isrotel Exclusive Collection - is ideally located along the famed Herbert Samuel Street, adjacent to the Tel Aviv coastline, providing direct access to the beach.

The hotel itself towers at 19 storeys with all rooms offering sea views. The interior design is modern and spacious; facilities include an Israeli-Mediterranean gourmet restaurant that is popular with the locals.

+962 6 568 5746 | www.lamaisonverterestaurant. com

T: +972 3 560 6385 | www.jozveloz.com

EAT/DRINK

• W Amman 13 Rafiq Al Hariri Ave +962 6 510 8888 | www.marriot.com

• Bar 223 223 Dizengoff St +972 3 544 6537 | www.223.co.il • Royal Beach Tel Aviv

CAIRO • Egyptian Antiques Museum

HaYarkon St 19, 68011 + 972 3 740 5000 | www.isrotel.com

Midan El Tahrir, Geographical Society Building, 11511 +20 2 33777263

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LANZAROTE

LANZAROTE

I walk out of Lanzarote airport and straight into Tila’s waiting car, where a chilled glass of cava is poured for me to enjoy on my drive to the eco finca while I’m filled in on all there is to do on the island. It’s my first trip to Lanzarote and it’s already off to a flying start!

ECO FRIENDLY TRAVEL IN

LANZAROTE

I’m staying at Finca de Arrieta, which is powered by the largest green energy system in Lanzarote and prides itself on offering ethically minded travellers the opportunity to enjoy a little luxury in their ecolifestyle. All properties are ideal for discerning travellers who want to holiday leaving little impact.

WORDS BY ALEX HOLMAN

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LANZAROTE

LANZAROTE ECO VILLAGE FINCA DE ARRIETA

and communities. This will then enable visitors to get the most from their holiday experience and visit places in their unspoilt and natural state.

I’m visiting Lanzarote with my daughter and we’re staying at Eco Village Finca de Arrieta, one of the beautiful holiday accommodations on the island from Lanzarote Retreats, a family run company that has been growing rapidly since the finca opened in 2007.

The best way to make the most out your trip to Lanzarote is to rent a car to travel around the island – some of Lanzarote Retreats’ packages have added Holiday Extras such as Toyota hybrid cars.

Lanzarote, one of the Canary islands off the coast of West Africa, is known for its volcanic landscape, natural black sand beaches and year-round warm weather - often referred to as the “Island of Eternal Spring” due to its subtropical-desert climate. The island, comprising terrestrial, marine and coastal ecosystems, was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993.

WHAT TO SEE IN LANZAROTE

Lanzarote Retreats’ flagship property is a pioneer in the world of eco travel. The Eco Village “Finca De Arrieta” is a wonderful example of sustainable and responsible tourism. All seventeen holiday yurts, villas and cottages at Finca de Arrieta are “off-grid” meaning they are powered by solar and wind energy.

I’ve booked using Lanzarote Retreats’ discounted “flexi stay” programme. Ranging from Mongolian yurts and traditional cottages to private, luxury villas - all are very original and offer privacy along with communal relaxation areas. We are placed in “Eco Chiquitita” consisting of a large yurt (which is surprisingly spacious inside) and a mini yurt right next door for the mini me. We have our own outdoor kitchen, bathroom and lounging area.

Finca de Arrieta is situated just 300 metres from La Garita beach where you can relax on the golden sand while watching the locals surf. The beach has a restaurant, beach bar, WC/showers, parking and play park. Back at the finca enjoy the on-site swimming pool, where the communal area is adorned with beautiful day beds and there are morning yoga classes on site.

Kids can make use of the play park, trampoline, animals, pirate boat, sand pit and giant garden chess board. They can even collect their own eggs from the free-range hens in the morning for their breakfast.

There is an on-site Honesty Shop and wine racks stocking a selection of locally produced wines. If you don’t feel like dining out you can make use of the dine in service, whereby you can order delicious homemade, seasonal meals to your accommodation.

Each property has its own barbecue and kitchen area for homestyle cooking too.

One thing that strikes me during my visit to the finca is the community and family vibe. Many members of the Braddock family help out at the finca, and the rest of the staff seem like part of the extended family.

They act as local guides, hosts and will even come and babysit for you.

Lanzarote Retreats believes that life-enhancing travel is not just about seeing a place, but experiencing a place, its people, its cultures, food and ways of life.

As tourists who are enjoying the benefits of tourism, it is important that we are doing so responsibly, in order to conserve the local cultures, environments

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ARRIETA Arrieta is a small fishing village known for its great seafood restaurants (try Casa de la Playa). The golden sand beach here - Playa La Garita – is ideal for paddling and has been awarded a Blue Flag. Head there in the evening for cocktails on the beach served out of a food truck. Arrieta is also located right next to Punta Mujeres, where you can find natural swimming pools.

PARQUE NACIONAL DE TIMANFAYA Timanfaya National Park is a spectacular volcanic landscape located in the Montañas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire), with huge craters and beautiful mountains. Here you will see views akin to another planet - the variety of colours of the earth next to the silhouette of the volcanoes and the dramatic coast all lend a hand to the park’s beauty.

EL MIRADOR DEL RÍO – RIVER’S VIEWPOINT El Mirador del Río is an incredible viewpoint overlooking El Río (the strait separating Lanzarote from Isla Graciosa). It was transformed from old gun batteries built by the Spanish armed forces in the late 19th century into a modern cave-like lookout point by famous architect César Manrique. From here you can see La Graciosa sparkling across the water and, on a clear day, you can see even more islands that form the Chinijo archipelago.

ISLA GRACIOSA Isla Graciosa, officially named the eighth Canary Island in 2018, is the only inhabited island of the Chinijo Archipelago with a population of just 700, almost all of whom live in the harbour village of Caleta de Sebo. Get to the island by ferry from Orzola in Lanzarote which takes around 35-minutes and leaves every hour. Once in La Graciosa you can walk or cycle to “Las Conchas”, a stunning beach where you can enjoy white sand with crystal clear water and mountain views. If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous you can also partake in some surfing, hiking or water sports here.

HARÍA AND THE HOUSE OF MANRIQUE Nestled in the “Valley of a Thousand Palms,” Haría is a small town full of cactus, palm trees and little white houses lined with wooden balconies, stone walls, bright-green shutters and plenty of bougainvillea. The central pedestrian avenue, Plaza León y Castillo, is lined with eucalyptus trees and on Sat-

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LANZAROTE

LANZAROTE urday mornings becomes a buzzing craft and produce market. Another place not to miss in Haría is the house of César Manrique, where you can enjoy the artists paintings and sculptures.

LOS JAMEOS DEL AGUA – THE WATER CAVES Los Jameos del Agua is a series of lava caves located in the town of Haría. A “jameo” is a hole in the earth that it is created when the roof of a volcanic tube collapses. The natural wonder here was modified in the 1960s by César Manrique who fused art with nature and turned these open air caves into a culture and tourism centre. Jameos del Agua consists now of a subterranean salt lake, restaurant, gardens, pool, museum and concert hall.

CUEVAS DE LOS VERDES – CAVES OF THE GREENS Measuring more than a kilometre long, the Cueva de Los Verdes is one of the longest volcanic tunnels in the world. Throughout its history Lanzarote has suffered attacks from pirates and raiders and the Cuevas de los Verdes was a popular place for local people to hide, going as far back as the Guanches (the aboriginal people who used to inhabit the Canary Islands). You can take a guided tour in this unique mythological-looking cave and see the extraordinary landscape and beauty.

WINE COUNTRY Forget your idea of typical wine country with orderly rows of growing green grape vines. On Lanzarote, dotted around the black volcanic landscape, are hollows dug into the ground and protected by small crescent-shaped stone walls, inside each of which hides a single growing grape vine sheltered from the wind.

You can take a tour of Lanzarote’s many wineries which are surrounded by beautiful natural valleys - the region and its unique grape-growing techniques enjoy a protected status.

TEGUISE Teguise is a typical quaint Spanish town with white houses, similar to Haría. It was once Lanzarote’s capital city, before Arrecife took the baton in 1852, and is one of the oldest towns in the Canaries. Teguise’s old town is delightful to explore with good restaurants and lively bars. Visit the Sunday morning market where you can find local handicrafts, watch live concerts in the streets and drink at local bars.

FUNDACION CESAR MANRIQUE César Manrique built his spectacular house and creative centre, Taro de Tahíche, into the lava fields just outside Tahíche and lived there between 1968 and 1988. It’s a unique structure, with the upper levels inspired by traditional Lanzarote architecture, and the subterranean rooms crafted from five huge air bubbles left by flowing lava. Think whitewashed walls, a sunken pool, white- and red-leather seats slotted into cavelike dens and bursts of bougainvillea and cacti.

Beyond the lava bubbles there is an entire gallery devoted to Manrique and a small garden cafe.

FAMARA Famara is known for its surfing and wind-surfing as this coastline usually has strong winds – the perfect conditions for riding spectacular waves – and the beach is overlooked by the majestic volcanic Risco de Famara cliffs. This town has a great laid back atmosphere and if you’re into water sports, you will certainly enjoy Famara.

CHARCO DE LOS CLICOS – THE GREEN LAGOON On the west coast of Lanzarote, near a town called Yaiza, you’ll find Charco de los Clicos – technically translated to “the green puddle” - officially declared a Natural Reserve. This is the crater of an extinct volcano filled with water from the Atlantic ocean, and at the bottom grows an algae making the water look a dazzling green colour. Once you’ve seen Charco de los Clicos, you can relax on El Golfo, a nearby black sand beach.

PLAYA DE PAPAGAYO – PARROT BEACH One of the most popular beaches in Lanzarote, Papagayo is a white sand cove shaped like a shell. Papagayo is famous for its crystal clear, emerald green water which remains still all day long just like in a swimming pool while volcanic peaks rise to up to 560m behind. It’s the perfect place for snorkelling or for letting the children splash around without having to worry. The only beach-side restaurant in the park is located right next to this beach where you can enjoy a lovely meal or some tasty refreshments.

EL JARDÍN DE CACTUS – THE CACTUS GARDEN The Garden of the Cactus is an old “rofera” (quarry) which was converted into a large cactus garden by César Manrique. There are more than 4,500 cacti and 450 different species. If you feel peckish why not try a cactus burger at the on-site cafe, where can enjoy panoramic views of the cactus garden from the terrace.

BOOK YOUR STAY WITH LANZAROTE RETREATS Finca de Arrieta, lugar diseminado 34, Tabayesco. Lanzarote, Las palmas. 35542 info@lanzaroteretreats.com www.lanzaroteretreats.com 0034 928 826720 Flexi Stay @ Finca De Arrieta Last minute discounts Stay in one of Finca De Arrieta’s holiday homes Price is per couple, extra guests 25 euros per night 1 x super-king size double bed, private shower room 20km from Arrecife airport, 300m to golden sand beach Prices from € 95.00 per night Maximum guests: 4

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INDIA

INDIA

MUST-SEE

INDIA

From the bustling Ghats lining the mighty Ganges river at Varanasi to the mysterious landscapes and crumbling temples of Hampi, and from pristine beaches to some of the world’s most awe-inspiring architecture, India is as varied as it is vast.

We go beyond the cities to bring you 10 must-see attractions.

Image: Rakesh Thanikachalam

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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INDIA

INDIA

3. THE HINDU TEMPLES, HAMPI Millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion have created a landscape so strange and other-worldly that Hampi, in the centre of Karnataka, has inspired a host of fantastical myths. Huge golden-brown boulders stacked on top of each other into mountainous heaps, reaching high into the cloudless blue sky, leave many visitors puzzled. In the shadow of these hill-sized piles lie the ruins of some of India’s most important Hindu temples, interspersed with banana groves and interlinked by quiet roads. The main bazaar area is being scaled back but there’s still a cluster of cafes and guesthouses lining the riverside Ghats, where local women wash their colourful saris and children play in the warm water.

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5. THE FRENCH QUARTER, PURDUCHERRY Travellers arriving into Purducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry) will be struck by its Gallic flair. Entering the older part of the French colonial town is like stepping into a village in Provence – the smell of freshly-baked pastries filling the air as you wander through the cobbled streets, stopping at bohemian coffee shops.

French rule only ended here in 1954, and many of the older locals still speak the language. It’s worth spending a day or two pottering along the seafront promenade and tucking into authentic steak frites, too – a rare luxury in the largely Hindu state of Tamil Nadu.

Photo by Steph Smith

2. BEACHES, GOA Two million visitors come to unwind on India’s golden beaches each year. Once a magnet for hippies, the beach resorts are now much more developed, and better suited to families and older holidaymakers. Those who can prise themselves away from their lounger will find plenty to explore inland; the region is full of historical sites, including the cobbled streets of Panjim, and the cathedrals and churches in the former state capital Old Goa. But, if swaying in a hammock whilst leafing through a good book is more your scene, you’ll find plenty of opportunity to indulge, too.

4. THE KERALAN BACKWATERS, KERALA Nothing epitomises Kerala’s laid-back way of life more than a trip on the languid backwaters meandering through the peaceful southern state. Stretching all the way from Kochi to Kollam, this snaking network of slow-moving canals, glistening lagoons and canoe-wide tributaries offers a fascinating glimpse of rural India. This is where a lot of Indians live, the waters doubling up as bathing and clothes washing facilities for the whole family. The best way to explore these backwaters is onboard a converted rice boat which despite the villages being powered by thin electric wires seemingly hung together up by pegs - are often kitted out with double bedrooms, kitchen and open-sided living space. Ink-blue Kingfishers can often be seen perching on the electricity wires.

6. VARANASI, UTTAR PRADESH Nothing can prepare the senses for the sights and sounds of India’s most holy destination. Built along the banks of the Ganges, it’s thought to be the oldest city in the world and remains a major Hindu pilgrimage site.

Today, the waterside stone Ghats are filled with locals bathing in the waters, cremating deceased loved ones and praying to Shiva and other gods. Begin the day with a sunrise boat ride, ending with an evening Aarti ceremony on the Dasaswamedh Ghat. This highly-choreographed and hypnotic service is carried out by young holy men dressed in elaborate saffron-coloured outfits who engulf onlookers with clouds of burning incense.

Images (left to right): WeRoad; Preshit Deorukhkar; Thomas Young

1. THE TAJ MAHAL, AGRA Originally commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 1630s as an eternal symbol of love for his wife, The Taj Mahal is without doubt the most elaborate - and costly - tomb on earth. Watching the morning sun reflect off the perfectly symmetrical white marble building should be on everybody’s bucket list. With more than three million visitors passing through the gates each year, however, it can get overwhelmingly busy; arrive at dawn to avoid the crowds. Getting close to the intricately carved walls and decadent inner rooms is also a must; hire a guide if you can. A highlight is the cenotaph chamber, where the vibration of air moving through the domed roof can be heard.

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INDIA

INDIA

8. RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK, RAJASTHAN Thankfully, there has been a huge amount of funding and development put in place to protect Indian tigers since this national park was used as a royal hunting ground. While sightings of the elusive big cat can never be guaranteed, a jeep safari through the lush Ranthambore woodland offers India’s highest chance of seeing them in the wild - about 40 tigers are still believed to reside here. There are lots of other animals to aim your binoculars at, though, including jackals, leopards, crocodiles and niglai (enormous horned antelopes).

9. JAISALMER FORT, RAJASTHAN The fortified city of Jaisalmer rises from the flat desert plains of western Rajasthan like a shimmering mirage. Built in 1165 by a powerful clan, the sandstone turrets, ramparts and honey-hued walls remained a stronghold for 400 years before being overturned by the Mogul empire. The fort soon became an important trading post between Delhi and eastern Asia and - despite being a popular tourist spot - life in the old city remains as it has for centuries (think vendors selling bright fabrics, spices and local crafts). A sunset camel trek into the dunes of the Thar Desert is a must, best done between October and April when temperatures are cooler.

10. THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, AMRITSAR This iconic gold and marble temple is one of the most spiritual places in India; an area of serenity and calm compared with the choked streets of Amritsar. Here, Sikhs pray and meditate at the edge of The Pool of Nectar, a sacred lake on which the temple sits. You can get as close as you like to The Golden Temple, stopping every now and again to listen to the mesmerising chanting on the way.

The complex is also home to a community kitchen that feeds 35,000 people every day – dining here is free; fit it in if you can.

HELPFUL INFORMATION • India Tourist Office - 020 7437 3677 • India Tourism London - 020 7434 3677

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Images : Josephine Thomas; (above) Annie Spratt

Images : Boudhayan Bardhan; (below)Ravi-N-jha

7. THE TEA FIELDS, DARJEELING The hills in northern West Bengal, close to the Nepalese border, produce some of the world’s finest teas, and the area was once the epicentre of 19th-century British colonial life.

Create a base at the Victorian holiday resort of Darjeeling and spend your days exploring the many tea plantations that carpet the sloped landscape. Many of the plantations offer guided tours of their fields and factories, where guests can sample every strain of leaf.

The hill station was also the launching point for many groundbreaking expeditions into the great Himalayas; the Himalayan Mountain Institute, within the town’s excellent zoo, is packed with memorabilia from Edmund Hilary’s pioneering ascent in 1953.

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WEYMOUTH

WEYMOUTH

CHESIL VISTA HOLIDAY PARK

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The 5 star Chesil Vista Holiday Park in Weymouth offers everything you need for a well-priced, relaxing, fun-filled family holiday and more.

WORDS BY LUCINDA JARVIS

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WEYMOUTH

WEYMOUTH ACCOMMODATION In terms of accommodation, the park contains 250 two to three bed static caravans and lodges (of which around 2/3 are privately owned) and 7 two-bed apartments. The accommodation is kept impeccably clean by an onsite cleaning team with the units regularly updated and changed which means they tend to be no older than 4 years old. As a result, everything within the accommodation feels as good as new and contains all the equipment and utensils that you need to self-cater in style.

FACILITIES Also on offer within the park is an impressive amount of facilities for its size including an indoor swimming pool, a waterslide, children’s splash pool, gym, football pitch, mini arcade, soft play area, a small grocery shop and seasonal children’s entertainment with Vic the Vista Monster’s fun club. The park also hosts a lively programme of entertainment during peak and off-peak times with regular cabaret nights, family games nights and bingo - plenty to entertain both adults and children alike.

DINING For those looking for a break from self-catering, an exciting new addition to the park for 2019 is the Breeze Bar and Grill – a brand new restaurant opened in March this year following a £1m investment across Chesil Vista and Waterside Holiday Park and Spa (also located in Weymouth). The Breeze Bar and Grill is open all day, and offers a quality dining experience with contemporary menus running from brunch through to dinner and packed full of locally sourced produce such as award winning sausages and Dorset cheeses. Also located onsite is ‘The Venue’, home to evening entertainment and a fully licensed bar.

Located just on the outskirts of Weymouth Town and wonderfully situated overlooking Chesil beach and the stunning Jurassic coast, Chesil Vista is under the management of family-run company, The Waterside Holiday Group, and is one of their three 5 star holiday parks in the area.

You will find each and every member of staff willing to help make your stay the best it can be, with many of them having worked for the family for over 20 years. Staff retention is high and employment of seasonal staff low meaning that returning families are welcomed back like long lost friends year after year.

THINGS TO DO During the day, the park is quiet as holidaymakers head out to explore the surrounding area which is full of glorious coastal walks and places to visit.

We would definitely recommend renting some bikes (Chesil Vista have a great arrangement with Weymouth Bike Hire who deliver the bikes to the park).

There are a number of wonderful bike paths to explore which will give you a view of Weymouth that you will not get from the comfort of your car. We ex-

plored the Rodwell Trail, a short, flat, family-friendly cycle (and walking) route of approximately 2.2 miles. What used to be a historic railway line, it is now a designated cycle and walking route that will take you into Weymouth. The Sandsfoot Gardens on the way are definitely worth a quick stop where you will find wonderful views of both Weymouth and Portland, a historical castle, a small café (open seasonally) as well as two calm beaches.

For short trips in the car, worthy of mention is the Grade II listed Portland Bill, a working lighthouse with distinctive red and white stripes built in 1906.

It is situated a short drive from Chesil Vista, heading out of Weymouth to the southern most point of Dorset. After touring the lighthouse and climbing up and down its 153 steps, you can head next door to ‘The Lobster Pot’, beautifully situated on the seafront, for a well-earned treat offering seaside delights such as cream teas, ice-creams and toasted tea cakes as well as a full breakfast and lunch menu (including takeaways).

Heading into town, Weymouth Harbour provides plenty to do, with its charming old Harbour and quaint gift and craft shops, numerous tea shops and the high street and main shopping areas located a short walk away. If you continue on from the main busy harbour, you will arrive at Weymouth Beach (and its Blue Flag), a magnificent stretch of golden sand, renowned for its shallowness and softness.

As it is sheltered by the Dorset Hills and has a delightful Georgian esplanade, it is one of the most family-friendly beaches imaginable. In the summer months, time-honoured beach entertainment such as Punch and Judy and donkey rides can still be found here as well as water sports a little further up the coast.

Continuing on up the coastline, you will find yourself in Bowleaze Cove, home to the Waterside Group’s flagship holiday park ‘Waterside Holiday Park and Spa’, a significantly larger park with over 500 units and an equally impressive array of facilities. On their doorstep is a traditional funfair, guaranteed to amuse all generations. Nearby you will also find yourself gazing in wonder at Durdle Door, one of the most photographed landmarks in Dorset.

STAY AT CHESIL VISTA HOLIDAY PARK Chesil Vista Holiday Park is open to holiday guests from 15th March to 4th November.

CONTACT CHESIL VITSA

Tariff 2019, based on 2 adults and 2 children: • Off-peak weekend 2-night break from £269

Address: Portland Rd, Weymouth DT4 9AG

• Peak weekend 2-night break from £567

Phone: 01305 773233

• Off-peak 7-night break from £448

Website: www.watersideholidaygroup.co.uk

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• Peak 7-night break from £1,026

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AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA

A GUIDE TO THE

LAND DOWN UNDER

Australia is 32 times bigger than the UK making it a little daunting for first-time visitors. The trick is to map out the must-sees by state, and leave the rest for another visit. For, much like a boomerang, you’ll want to return again and again.

Image: Tourism Australia

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA

“On the beach we would savour this coast’s eternal simplicity.

We set out our garden-grown almonds and olives, poured a drink and for the umpteenth time wondered at that perfect, timeless view, as the sun sank over the bay.”

NEW SOUTH WALES Sydney With its beaches, iconic bridge and opera house - not to mention a hip city scene - no visit to Australia would be complete without spending some time in Sydney. Climb Sydney Harbour Bridge for an adrenalin rush with a difference; head downtown if you have cash to splash; make a beeline for Bondi or Manly beaches to swim, surf or sunbathe; or book ballet or theatre tickets at the Opera House for an evening of culture in an architectural marvel. As for eating out, cosmopolitan Sydney dishes up just about every type of cuisine you could name – and a few you couldn’t.

The Blue Mountains Drive two hours west of Sydney and you’ll enter a different world. The Blue Mountain World Heritage area encompasses one million hectares of steep cliffs, eucalyptus forests, canyons, waterfalls and quaint towns dotted with guesthouses, galleries and gardens. The area gets its name from how blue the mountains appear from Sydney. Once here, visitors can swim at the bottom of waterfalls, explore caves, hike along dedicated walking trails, ride gondolas across deep valleys and stay in luxury wildlife resorts – complete with spas.

VICTORIA Melbourne Often overlooked in favour of Sydney, Melbourne is a city without any major attractions but with a musical, arty underbelly. If you love your music then heading to a gig is an absolute must – The Corner Hotel in Richmond is a city institution. To get to know the city’s heart, you’ll need to head out into the neighbourhoods: try Fitzroy for vegan cafes and envelope-pushing bars; Little Italy in Carlton for gelato and pizza; Docklands for waterfront dining and entertainment; and Collingwood for music venues and beaches.

Don’t leave without ordering - and savouring – a Flat White. One sip and you’ll realise that we haven’t quite got it right at home.

Image: Tourism Australia

The Great Ocean Road Sydney has the Blue Mountains; Melbourne has The Great Ocean Road, a 243-km stretch of beaches, limestone rocks, grottos and naturally-sculpted arches, all formed by the majestic power of the sea. Highlights include the Twelve Apostles – eight massive limestone structures rising 45 metres out of the

sea (the remaining four have eroded) – the caramel sands of deserted Loch Ard Gorge beach and The Grotto, a pretty sinkhole. In between you’ll stumble across old fishing villages, and boardwalks with restaurants and boutique hotels. Grab fish and chips to go and eat them on a beach at sunset.

QUEENSLAND The Great Barrier Reef The world’s largest coral reef system is a must-see on any itinerary to Australia.

Spanning an incredible 2,300km, visitors can snorkel, dive and sail around this living organism to see colourful coral and a huge variety of fish. If you have more of a head for heights, take a scenic flight over the reef for a bird’s eye view. Visitors staying longer can also sail around the Whitsundays, 74 idyllic islands where the sand is so white you’ll need sunglasses; the water a dazzling clear blue-green. All 7km of Whitehaven Beach are instantly gram-able – with no filter required.

Brisbane Squeaky clean and eco-friendly yet as arty as they come, Brisbane is a small tropical city where temperatures rarely dip below 30 degrees even in the winter. Surrounded by water, water taxis ferry locals to restaurants, live music venues, riverside gardens and man-made beaches. In just one day you could climb The Story Bridge (and abseil back down), take a dip at Streets Beach, admire local artwork at The Institute of Modern Art, dine at award-winning restaurant Allium and enjoy a rooftop cocktail at Eleven.

What could day two bring?

WESTERN AUSTRALIA Margaret River With its lush green landscape, towering trees and classic cars, Western Australia’s Margaret River could easily be likened to England.

In a territory mainly given over to scorching temperatures - and an equally scorched landscape – this region of Western Australia is a pleasant surprise. Where The Margaret River differs is in its vineyards – mile-uponmile of vines producing some of Australia’s best plonk. Hire an open-top car (and a driver) and spend the day quaffing wine before settling down for the night in one of the region’s boutique hotels.

Images top to bottom: Tourism Australia; Voyager Estate Pty Ltd; Walk Into Luxury

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AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA

Towering pink-hued mountains, known as the Hazards, frame this place of wild beauty, where stunning beaches, fresh seafood and some of the country’s most exclusive lodges await.

Perth Despite its small size, Perth – with its beaches, scenic gardens and river setting – is worth a visit. Wander the small streets to browse the local shops and street art, before heading out for dinner followed by a night on the tiles (the locals sure know how to party).

SOUTH AUSTRALIA Adelaide A burgeoning bar scene and year-round calendar of events has changed the perception of Adelaide as a sleepy city. Head down the narrow laneways and you can sip espresso martinis, sit in sailor-themed bars or enjoy French aperitifs with a side of escargot. Family–friendly attractions include the Botanic Garden and Adelaide Zoo. The Barossa Valley If you like your Australian wines – and Shiraz in particular - you’ll love this renowned wine-producing region North East of Adelaide. Hire a classic old car and drive the country roads, stopping at intimate cellar doors for tastings and lunch.

If your visit is to celebrate an anniversary or occasion, book an early-morning hot air balloon ride or a private helicopter ride over the vines.

NORTHERN TERRITORY

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Darwin The capital of the Northern Territory is actually closer to Singapore than it is to Perth, with more Asian influences than Australian. This is particularly true of the weather which is distinctly Asian – Darwin never experiences winter. The atmosphere is laid back and easy going, with lazy days by the river a favourite pastime.

TASMANIA Mount Wellington Hobart is a small city with a dazzling marina filled with restaurants, striking hotels and plenty of sails. Beyond the waterfront, visitors will find a dynamic art scene and a wealth of natural attractions. Climb Mount Wellington, eat fish and chips from a floating vessel and admire (or raise your eyebrows at) some daring modern art.

Freycinet National Park Towering pink-hued mountains, known as the Hazards, frame this place of wild beauty, where stunning beaches, fresh seafood and some of the country’s most exclusive lodges await. Try the delicious scallops, take pictures of picture-perfect Wineglass Bay and say hello to the local wildlife, including dolphins, whales, penguins, seals and the famous Tasmanian devil.

NEW SOUTH WALES • Sydney Harbour Bridge www.bridgeclimb.com | +61 2 8274 7777 • Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com | +61 2 9250 7111 VICTORIA • The Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street, Richmond 3121 cornerhotel.com | +61 3 9427 7300 QUEENSLAND • The Great Barrier Reef www.greatbarrierreef.org • The Whit Sundays www.tourismwhitsundays.com.au • The Institute of Modern Art (IMA) www.ima.org.au | +61 7 3252 5750 • Allium Restaurant & Bar www.allium.com.au | +61 7 3254 0595 • Eleven Rooftop Bar elevenrooftopbar.com.au | +61 7 3067 7447 WESTERN AUSTRALIA • Uluru www.uluru.com • Perth www.perthcity.co.uk SOUTH AUSTRALIA • Adelaide Botanic Garden botanicgardens.sa.gov.au | + 61 8 8222 9311 • Adelaide Zoo www.adelaidezoo.com.au | + 61 8 8267 3255 NORTHERN TERRITORY • Kakadu National Park parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu | +61 8 8938 1120 TASMANIA • Hobart wellingtonpark.org.au | +61 3 6238 2176 • Freycinet National Park www.parks.tas.gov.au | +61 3 0082 7727

Image: South Australian Tourism Commission

Image: South Australian Tourism Commission

Kakadu National Park Rock art galleries up to 20,000 years old, thundering waterfalls and millions of migratory birds… Australia’s largest national park doesn’t disappoint. Cruise the dra-

matic wetlands - with its abundant fauna and flora - swim beneath (or soar above) the waterfalls and admire some of the world’s finest X-ray art (animals depicted by their skeletons and organs).

HOW TO DO IT

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ITALY

ITALY

“Venice has always been synonymous with impermanence; its otherworldly beauty a bittersweet embodiment of transience. Its waters, lending the city its unique appeal, also spell the certainty of its eventual demise, plashing relentlessly against decaying brick and plaster. Unlike South Africa’s lost city of Kweneng, Venice won’t be laid to rest under thick vegetation, which itself speaks of regeneration: when it sinks to the watery depths of the lagoon, it will be lost, Atlantis-like, forever.”

VENICE THE VANISHING CITY

WORDS BY SARAH RODRIGUES

Image: Rosalind Milani Gallieni

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LUXURY TRAVEL ITALY

ITALY

Other than the street name - Campo del Tiziano - there is little here, at the doorway of a building located at the dead end of an alleyway in the Cannaregio district of Venice, to suggest that it was once the home and studio of illustrious 16th century painter Titian, nor that it is now the workshop of Italy’s last remaining gold beater, Marino Menegazzo.

As with many artisanal crafts, the name of the profession has become the family’s surname, in this case, Battiloro (literally, beater of gold). Over the course of an hourslong process, he melts and then laminates a 24-carat ingot of gold until finally, wielding a series of four mallets, of which even the largest, at 8kg, seems to fly effortlessly in his grasp, he hammers it to near-translucence, delicate and insubstantial as a dying sigh.

At one time there were 46 workshops in Venice devoted to the craft, which first came to the city from Byzantium in about 1000 A.D. From the 340 gold beaters these once employed, there remains today only Battiloro. He is now 65 years old, and when he eventually hangs up his hammers, the craft will cease to exist in Europe.

Venice has always been synonymous with impermanence; its otherworldly beauty a bittersweet embodiment of transience. Its waters, lending the city its unique appeal, also spell the certainty of its eventual demise, plashing relentlessly against decaying brick and plaster. Unlike South Africa’s lost city of Kweneng, Venice won’t be laid to rest under thick vegetation, which itself speaks of regeneration: when it sinks to the watery depths of the lagoon, it will be lost, Atlantis-like, forever.

Nor is it just the city, in its physical sense, which is disappearing: its residents are, too. From a post-WWII population of about 175,000, there are now only around 55,000 people living in Venice; people are leaving at the rate of about 2,000 each year. Blame is laid at the door of the tourism industry, which has eroded quality of life and environmental health, in the same way that the water is eroding the city itself.

Our visit has coincided with the acqua alta, literally ‘high water’, a phenomenon that ordinarily takes place between October and December, although other months have witnessed it too, especially in recent years, which have seen this once-rare occurrence become more frequent. Essentially a tidal event, the salt water of the lagoons rises above canal level, causing several hours of flooding, until the tide changes and the water recedes. It’s an increasingly common fact of life in Venice, signalled by the unearthly strains of a siren, a forecast introduced after The Great Flood of 1966, when the waters rose to 6 feet above sea level. Shopkeepers and hoteliers are accordingly prepared, with low watertight barriers at their doors, over which visitors can step, while officials lay raised platforms along popular streets, allowing continued passage.

Although not at ‘66 levels, the water this time is exceptionally high: it flows over barriers, while staff frantically move merchandise and electrical equipment to higher

Image: Sarah Rodrigues

Nicknamed La Serenissima, Venice has sunk by around 10 inches in the last century alone. Undoubtedly, the role

of climate change is key - but even in the early 1800s, when poet Lord Byron was resident, he wrote of ‘the slime / The dull green ooze of the receding deep,’ while accounts of collapsing edifices exist as far back as medieval times. Venice has always been disappearing, but the rate of its decline is accelerating.

Images: Federica Lazzarini

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ITALY

Images: Rosalind Milani Gallieni

ITALY

make the hand beating. I lasted only a few minutes”. For myself, I nearly fall over when attempting to pick up the 8kg mallet, much less swing it through the air. Nevertheless, women are essential to the business: together with his wife, the girls, working with incredible speed and precision, cut the beaten gold into predetermined shapes and sizes, before placing them between the leaves of books to be transported. One breath can cause a wrinkle in the material; a sneeze could be catastrophic. Gold tendrils gather at the corners of their workstations; these will later be collected and re-smelted.

Battiloro gold leaf may be seen gleaming on the golden statue of Archangel Gabriel at the top of the San Marco bell tower. It gilds Venice’s gondolas and the doors in the city’s Correr Museum. Further afield, it lustres the cross and crown on top of the basilica of Lourdes’ Our Lady of the Rosary, as well as the Kremlin and the Vatican.

Nevertheless, as demand diminishes, the family have turned their attention to other outlets.

Water is also the bearer of one of the greatest threats to Venice at this time: behemothic cruise ships disgorge thousands of passengers, most of whom add to the weight of over-tourism, whilst failing to give anything back: their stays are short and their spend is minimal, since everything is to be had in all-inclusive packages back on board. It’s estimated that over 20 million visitors come to Venice each year; in high season, cruise ships account for about 30,000 of these daily. In the meantime, the ships themselves displace 90,000 tonnes of water when they move, stirring up the sediment and damaging the fragile lagoon, leaving it increasingly vulnerable to tidal movements and flooding. Angry protests from locals have done little to contain the problem; nor have UNESCO threats about being stripped of World Heritage Status, an accolade the city has held since 1987 - although the June crash, in which four people were injured when a 275m long ship collided with a dock and another boat, has reignited calls to ban large vessels.

Water is both Venice’s beating heart and the substance that threatens its permanent cessation. Potential solutions

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to the problem are no less complex - The MOSE Project, a flood protection system first conceived of in the 1970s, has been under construction since 2003, with operational status delayed several times since then. The project is of gargantuan proportions, comprising no fewer than 78 underwater gates secured to the floor of the lagoon. When the tide is unfeasibly high, these will be pumped with air and rise to the surface, preventing advancing water from reaching the city.

Although he hopes to still be working when the workshop celebrates its centenary in 2026, Battiloro has more or less resigned himself to the extinction of his craft

Venice has always been synonymous with impermanence. It’s not difficult to conceive of a time when all that is visible of it, and of Battiloro’s skill, is the Gabriel statue - once the highest point of the city - looking nobly, forlornly, out across a watery grave.

Sarah stayed at Hotel Heureka, a restored 16th century palazzo in the Cannaregio neighbourhood. Featuring 10 bedrooms and a secret garden, which opened in 2017.

• Hotel Heureka - Fondamenta Contarini, 3534, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy +39 041 524 6460 | www.hotel-heureka.com • Battiloro www.berta-battiloro.com/en/ • The Merchant of Venice - available in the UK at Harrods and Harvey Nichols www.themerchantofvenice.com • Kempinski Spa +39 041 475 0111 | www.kempinski.com

Beset by scandal and corruption, the project is at best contentious, but its very efficacy is also in question: according to experts from the Institute of Marine Sciences National Research Council of Italy, repeated use of these defensive flood barriers will cause damage to the lagoon and, as water levels continue to rise, their deployment is likely to reach annual numbers in the hundreds. The result? A disaster for the ecosystem, complete with the deaths of thousands of aquatic creatures.

Back in Battiloro’s studio, the hypnotic thud of his mallet could easily soothe you into believing that the world beyond these walls is not under threat - yet despite the tranquility of his focus and the preciousness of the material, here too, all is in a state of flux. With no son to carry on his work, to which he has devoted himself for over 40 years, his hopes have been vested in a series of apprentices, none of whom have had the requisite passion, nor staying power. Customer insistence on quality has also dwindled: although machines can’t achieve the gossamer-lightness of Battiloro’s product, they can churn it out in quantities that one man, working alone, simply can’t.

Image: Rosalind Milani Gallieni

shelves. Chairs and tables float outside restaurants. In some places, the water is waist-deep. Leaving the upstairs restaurant at which we’re lunching ceases to be an option for several hours after we’ve finished; at a nearby table, a woman settles in for the long haul and snuggles down on a bench, a napkin arranged over her face. For tourists, in their hordes, the experience is a novel one; they buy cheap, single-use ponchos and waders with which to splash through the streets. By afternoon, these are discarded, and municipal bins froth them in a plastic rainbow of colour from their mouths to the ground. As the water recedes, they are swept out to the lagoon, and the cycle of ruin continues.

The ingestion of gold for the purposes of health and beauty has been practiced since antiquity; lit from within by the gold dust they breathe in on a daily basis, it can’t be denied that the entire family looks ludicrously youthful. Artisanal perfumier The Merchant of Venice not only uses the gold leaf in ‘flame’ stoppers in one of its luxury collections, but also in a facial treatment involving the application of 11 layers of gold directly to the skin at its eponymous spa at the San Clemente Palace Kempinski Hotel. At-home kits are also available to purchase, as are packages for the purposes of consumption, whether with decorative flourish or youthful rejuvenation in mind.

when he retires. So has UNESCO: contemplating recognising gold beating within their Intangible Cultural Heritage category, they visited the craftsman a few years ago but, on discovering that there was no one following in his footsteps, the idea was abandoned and the craft dismissed as having already died.

As for his twin daughters, Eleanora and Sara? “We have tried,” shrugs Eleanora. “I tried few years ago with the 3kg hammer but it really is impossible for a woman to

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MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES

MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES

10 OF THE BEST

MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES

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Can’t afford a long-haul holiday? Don’t sweat it – from beaches to family-friendly attractions and from culture to seafood, the Med has it all.

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES

MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES BEST FOR: FAMILY-FRIENDLY ATTRACTIONS

ing on a lounger. It’s a holiday win-win. After wandering around Park Güell, marvelling at La Sagrada Familia, shopping on Las Ramblas and sipping coffee in a pretty square, Lisbon, Portugal Lisbon is often overlooked in favour of big head to one of the city’s 10 beaches to relax, hitters like Barcelona or Madrid but what Lis- play volleyball, roller-skate along a promebon has up its sleeve is a gigantic aquarium. nade, eat seafood or swim in the warm sea.

So big, in fact, that it’s the largest in Europe, with several floors divided into continents.

Children can gawp at sharks through floor-to- BEST FOR: FESTIVALS ceiling windows, watch otters swim in ponds and go gooey over penguins – and that’s be- Dubrovnik, Croatia fore tucking into homemade ice-cream in the It may be small but this town packs a punch gelatería, shopping for t-shirts in the eco shop when it comes to festivals, with over 21 fes(where even the coat hangers for the T’s are tivities scheduled each year. The fun starts in made out of cardboard) and splashing about February with the Festival of St. Blaise (the in the fountains outside. Lisbon itself is well Dubrovnik patron saint); April sees a festival geared up for families - with children allowed quirkily-named ‘Quiet please, Dubrovnik and in the bars, cafes and restaurants until well af- film love each other’ followed by the a capter dark and several beaches just 30 minutes pella song contest. Come later in the month for the annual wine festival where 100 reaway by train. gional winemakers gather. In June, you can cycle to classical music played by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra and, in July, atBEST FOR: tend a music festival with some of the world’s THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS biggest names taking to the stage. The year concludes with the Good Food Festival (OcBarcelona, Spain Can’t decide between a cultural city break tober) and Dubrovnik Winter Festival (Deand a relaxing beach holiday? Do both... Bar- cember). celona is a beautiful, fascinating and downright hip city with some of the most famous BEST FOR: STREET FOOD architecture in the world; the restaurants host some of the best flamenco in Spain. If Palermo, Sicily that wasn’t enough, Barcelona is also on the There are few better ways to get to know a beach, meaning you can spend the morning place and its people than through its food. getting a culture fix and the afternoon relax- Skip the fancy restaurants and look for those carts lining the street. The produce won’t just

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be traditional and locally made but cheap, too. The bustling streets of Palermo, with its historical ties to the Arab world, is a great place to try a variety of Mediterranean street food, including chickpea fritters, Sicilian pizza, fried rice balls stuffed with anything from cheese to meat, and layered cheese and tomato pies. For dessert, try the sweet cannoli – a waffle shaped like a cone and filled with sweet cream cheese and pistachio nuts. If you want to know a bit more about what you are eating, join the city’s street food tour.

BEST FOR: PICTURE-POSTCARD SCENERY The Amalfi Coast, Italy Imagine pastel-hued houses clinging to a hillside overlooking a glistening blue sea. Then imagine no more – every turn of Amalfi’s twisting hairpin roads afford a different view: right out to the horizon one minute; tiny beach coves protected by rock cliffs the next. This is the playground of the 1960s Hollywood set who would come to swim in the sea, drink Champagne at fancy hotels and sport the latest fashions complete with large sunglasses (all the better for hiding last night’s over-indulgence). While the beaches themselves are pebbles or black sand, spending some time here is a must – if just to watch the locals smoking cigars, playing cards and sunbathing like there’s no harm in the sun’s rays. Don’t leave without tucking into the creamy gelato with its ever-growing list of flavours.

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MEDITERRANEAN EXPERIENCES

BEST FOR: FRESH SEAFOOD Valletta, Malta Seafood lovers, pick up your, erm, implements (those whelks are hard to get out), you have come to the right place. Malta does seafood. And not just any seafood: seafood to take away, seafood to munch on for lunch and seafood to stare into each other’s eyes over in a romantic setting (look down, the fish may well be staring at you, too). Whether it’s traditional, modern, open air or fancy as they come, fishermen bring their daily catch to restaurants all over Valletta, ensuring diners tuck into fresh lobster, prawns, crab, calamari, swordfish, octopus and salmon day after day. Local dishes include spaghetti with octopus sauce; calamari stuffed with onions, garlic, breadcrumbs and ricotta; and grilled swordfish served with a sprig of mint, a splash of white wine and a squeeze of lemon. Yum. BEST FOR: BEACHES Ölüdeniz, Turkey There are beaches all over the Med but Ölüdeniz stands head and shoulders above the rest. The star of many a poster, postcard and glossy magazine, Ölüdeniz – also known as The Blue Lagoon – is a long arc of the purest white sand gleaming in the middle of the most azure of seas, backed by lush green mountains. Take a walk across the flour-soft sand, kayak across the clear water or grab a bean-bag and sit on the promenade to watch

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the paragliders coming in to land, plopping down on the beach and covering the sand with colourful material. It’s a sight to behold.

Thirsty? Head to one of the beach shack-style restaurants behind you and order a cold beer or snack – the kebabs here are some of the best in the world, too.

is for vineyards, distilleries and cellar doors.

The wine regions of Bordeaux are actually several growing areas differing in size and offering, each with their own appellation (legal requirements on grape varieties, alcohol levels, methods of pruning and density of planting). The region produces some of the world’s best Cabernet Sauvignons, Malbecs, Merlots BEST FOR: ISLAND HOPPING and Petit Verdots (reds) as well as Sauvignon Blancs, Semillons and Muscadelles (whites).

Greek islands, Greece Visitors can stay in wine chateaus – where row Over 200 idyllic islands lie off the coast of up row of vines dominate the view – join wine Greece, providing the perfect opportunity to tasting tours or visit cellar doors and buy bothop around. From large, lively islands with tles to take home. family-friendly attractions (think Rhodes or Crete) to tiny idyllic islands (think Symi and BEST FOR: CULTURE Folegandros), and from islands that fashionistas flock to (think Mykonos and Corfu) to Florence, Italy well-shot islands that have graced our screens Florence has art at its heart - its terracotta roofand magazine covers for decades (think Ke- tops, architectural marvels and glistening river falonia, the setting for Captain Corelli’s Man- are like a Renaissance painting in themselves. dolin, and Santorini, with its famous white Fling open the doors of the cathedral, churchwashed buildings topped with royal blue es, museums and art galleries and you’ll find roofs), the Greek Islands are as varied as they century-old stained glass windows; rare, priceare beautiful. Island hopping is made easy via less paintings; and 16th-century sculptures. regular ferry transfers, catamaran crossings If art is the city’s heartbeat, then music is its and sail boat hire (or charter with a skipper). soundtrack, with countless venues showcasing Find somewhere you like, drop anchor and the city’s pop, rock, jazz, blues and folk. Thejust float away. atre lovers are in luck, too, with anything from ballet to opera and plays to pantomime on the roster. The city’s Italian Opera with Dinner BEST FOR: WINE TASTING events are worth hunting out, particularly if you are on a romantic break; The Three Tenors Bordeaux, France with Ballet is also spectacular.

The word ‘Bordeaux’ is probably more familiar to some as red wine than an area of France, proving just how famous this region

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CORNWALL

CORNWALL

A GETAWAY IN THE BEAUTIFUL

CORNISH COUNTRYSIDE

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Cornwall is my favourite countryside destination to go to. The air is fresh, albeit windy, but it’s so pretty and peaceful. The narrow roads with trees that tower over into an arch create a tunnel to drive through and it’s a special place to go on a road trip.

WORDS BY KATIE SAUNDERS

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CORNWALL DESTINATION UK

CORNWALL We arrived at The Cornwall Hotel on a Sunday afternoon after a 5 hour drive from London.

The Cornwall Hotel is located in St Austell, Cornwall. The town centre of St Austell is minutes away from the hotel. It’s a quaint little town with small windy cobbled streets and you question whether you should be driving along them or not.

My sister joined me on this mini getaway. After arriving at the hotel we took our bags up to our room, got settled in and chose which bed we wanted, as you do! I, of course, took the bed near the window to lay near the incredible view which we then admired from the balcony for a little while, while enjoying the sun. We were very lucky with great sunny weather and only a slight cool breeze. Our room was spacious with twin beds and had all the mod cons required and a TV nicely placed so we could watch it while in bed.

The 43-acre estate is an idyllic escape in the beautiful Cornish countryside. The hotel’s rooms are all front facing with an incredible view across Cornish fields and hills. The location is soothing and energising at the same time; it is a relaxing place with both beauty and a buzzing atmosphere and the hotel staff are fun, positive and chatty which added to a memorable stay. Another special factor about the estate is how conscious they are of the local wildlife. I saw eight tiny baby bunny rabbits hopping across the front lawn and at the front of the estate is a bat treehouse, specifically built to protect the species, who are regular guests at The Cornwall Hotel.

With the rest of the afternoon free until dinner time we decided to take a walk around the grounds. We relaxed on the grass chatting in the sun, where we spotted bunny rabbits and took idyllic pictures. We explored part of the Gwendolyn Trail; a fun immersive experience to learn more about the estate and its past with a map and riddles to direct us. We then went to take a look at The Clearing Spa which offers health, fitness, relaxation and beauty treatments all under one roof. ... at the time of our visit The Cornwall Hotel was offering a ‘Wild Spa Experience’, giving guests the opportunity to relax in a wood-fired hot tub outside, in the hotel’s private walled garden.

On our first evening we stayed at the hotel for dinner and ate ourselves into a food coma. Good quality food, nice drinks and a menu that caters for everyone: we started with soup and moved onto a meaty main. I had a sweet desert after which we were ready to retire to our room to relax and watch a film.

On our second day we woke up well rested and enjoyed a relaxed breakfast at the hotel. We carefully planned our day out to make sure we had the opportunity to swim before my Caudalie facial at The Clearing Spa and to venture out of the estate to see what our surroundings were like. The hotel receptionist gave us some sound advice and said we should go to Pentewan Sands, Mevagissey and Charlestown, all three within 15 minutes drive.

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We drove to Pentewan Sands, a camping site for visitors to pitch up tents or a caravan. We took a walk along the beach and braved the Cornish coastal winds before we retreated to a beach hut serving hot food and drinks. The beach was beautiful and I would love to come back on a hot summers day.

Committed surfers were still out there enjoying the waves despite the cold.

Next stop was Mevagissey, such a lovely colourful village and fishing port, it’s the second biggest fishing port in Cornwall and I was so pleased to visit.

It has a mixture of old beautiful buildings and then some rather tatty ones, quite like when you visit Brighton, it’s got that seaside quirkiness about it. We walked around the local trinket and tourist shops and found an old interesting sweetie shop, with sweets that you’d remember from when you were a child.

We found the smallest pub and had to take a look inside, the ceilings were so low but was it was warm and cosy and a really friendly place. There are lots of streets leading off into different directions and you can walk or drive down to the port to see the working fishing boats and pleasure vessels.

We set off back the other way to Charlestown, the plan was to stop for dinner but we settled for a hot chocolate instead because we got there earlier than planned. It was the best hot chocolate I’ve had at a place called The Pier. Charlestown is also where The Pirates of the Caribbean and Poldark were filmed. It was great to see the large boats sitting in the dock and be where they filmed a great movie.

Windswept hair, a little chilly and full of hot chocolate we made our way back to the hotel and decided to have dinner there again since it was so good the previous evening! We kept it small this time as we’d eaten so much food from the night before and at breakfast. We had another restful night’s sleep at the hotel and the mattresses were incredibly comfortable. There is something about the Cornish breeze that takes it out of you on a good day. We were so relaxed during our time there and had such a great time.

Since our visit, the first Laura Ashley Tea Room officially opened at The Cornwall Hotel. The coastal inspired team room is the sixth of the Laura Ashley Collection, attracting guests from near and far for all occasions. The full menu includes a range of afternoon tea options including traditional, gluten free, vegan and a children’s option. Frobishers famous Bumbleberry juice is available as a non-alcoholic beverage. The Tea Room is located in the hotel’s main building, at the heart of the estate, and has been tastefully decorated in signature Laura Ashley style, bringing together the quintessence of England with elegant country-living.

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CORNWALL PLANS FOR THE FUTURE The Cornwall has plans to expand the estate in the near future. They currently have rooms behind the main house and off to the right of that there are self catering houses for large groups, each have 2 or 3 bedrooms and several houses are often booked up by families for long weekends, having grandparents, parents and children staying. The future plans are to build more self catering room options on the other side of the main house.

A BIT OF HISTORY The original white building that is now the main house of The Cornwall Hotel, Spa and Estate may not be as grand in stature or extravagant as some other estates in the UK, but it’s most definitely full of interesting history. During the time I spent at The Cornwall I learnt so much more about the hotel than I thought I would. I discovered the land The Cornwall Hotel sits on dates back to the 1700s, where miners would stream for tin. It was said through fact and fairytale fiction the miners struck a hoard consisting of a silver chalice, two rings, a brooch, various other

CORNWALL gold ornamental pieces and fourteen coins. The discovery became known as ‘The Trewhiddle Hoard’.

They identified the coin collection as dating back to approximately 875 AD by Mexican and Anglo Saxon Kings, including Alfred the Great. Around 1000 years later, in 1880, the coins were presented to the British Museum and to this day remain one of the most important finds from the period.

The Coode family bought the the estate in 1819, building Moor Cottage as their summer residence within the grounds. They lived on the estate until 2002 and this is when a whole new chapter began.

In 2005 a specialist team set about restoring The Cornwall estate from overgrown wilderness to the beautiful house and gardens to its former splendour.

Specialist architects, ecology and landscape consultants worked to ensure that the historical integrity of the estate was respected with sensitive and contemporary additions. Once it was completed it was The Cornwall Hotel, Spa and Estate and it first started welcoming guests in February 2010.

BOOK YOUR VISIT TO THE CORNWALL HOTEL, SPA & ESTATE Whether you want to book your stay, find out about the local area or book a Spa treatment, here is how you can get in touch: The Cornwall Hotel, Spa & Estate Pentewan Road Tregorrick Saint Austell PL26 7AA Website: www.thecornwall.com GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 01726 874 050 Email: enquiries@thecornwall.com RESERVATIONS & EVENTS Tel: 01726 874 051 Email: reservations@thecornwall.com SPA & LEISURE Tel: 01726 874 055 Email: spareservations@thecornwall.com

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NORTH AMERICA

NORTH AMERICA

TOP 10

America and Canada are vast (vast) countries with multi-cultural cities, world-renowned attractions, natural beauty and, of course, beaches. Whether you want to surf, watch the sunrise (or sunset), cycle along a promenade, tuck into fresh seafood, build sandcastles or simply be a beach bum, North America won’t disappoint. Here is our round up of 10 best North American beaches...

NORTH AMERICAN BEACHES

All images: ©2015 DiscoverAmerica.com

WORDS BY JO GARDNER

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NORTH AMERICA USA Myrtle Beach, South Carolina Lovers of Ferris wheels, bright lights and fairground rides will feel at home on Myrtle Beach. Facing a 2km expanse of ocean, and with 60 miles of white sand to pad along, this neon wonderland will keep you and your family entertained for weeks on end. Watch a game of beach volleyball, get on a bike (or don a pair of roller-skates) and fly along the wide promenade, tuck into fish and chips at one of the many restaurants, play a round of golf on one of 100 golf courses or watch live entertainment in the evening. Accommodation choices are vast, with campsites, apartments, hotels and beach huts. It’s little wonder 15 million people visit the area each year.

Vero Beach, Florida Vero Beach is a small city in Florida with a pretty stretch of sand and a lively arts scene. Spend the morning reading a book under a palm tree; the afternoon browsing the Museum of Art or the McKee Botanical Garden, and the evening watching a performance at the Riverside Theatre. As well as beaches, this area boasts golf courses, large parks and river inlets, where visitors can kayak and fish. Sports fans should head to Historic Dodgertown, the former training home of the Brooklyn/LA Dodgers now a tournament venue for baseball, lacrosse, football, swimming and rowing. The 80-acre campus has 89 on-site hotels, restaurants, meeting spaces and two fitness centres.

Orange Beach, Alabama Located on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, Orange Beach has white sand, turquoise waters and orange sunsets. Look for pretty shells, sail across the ocean on a catamaran or dine at a seafood restaurant before settling in to watch the sky change from blue to pink to red to orange. Visitors can enjoy an array of attractions during their stay, including deep-sea fishing and golf. If the weather turns, retreat to The Wharf, a 200-acre resort with 32 shops, 16 places to eat, a marina, a Ferris wheel, several cinemas and an amphitheatre.

Surfrider Beach, Los Angeles As the name suggests, this Malibu-based beach attracts surfers from all over the world who come to ride the long right-hand break. Lifeguards are on hand for young children who wish to give a go, and there’s a separate section marked out for swimmers and children. You’ll find a volley ball net near the pier, too – if you would prefer to watch, head to the Malibu Sport Fishing Pier where several benches provide good views. Malibu Farm - located on the attractive, lightstrewn pier - is the place to head for a coffee, brunch, lunch or an evening meal. All three restaurants are located in chic white-washed buildings and serve organic, local produce.

Montauk, New York State Fans of US drama The Affair will have already seen footage of Montauk, with its lobster shack, deserted beaches and surfer dudes. This is one part of The Hamptons that New Yorkers flock to every summer to escape the city heat, stay in local beach houses, admire the morning sunrises and attend high-end parties. The beaches rank among the top in the country, with rolling breakers crashing onto great expanses of white sand. Montauk is known for its spectacular 70-foot high bluffs, which protect sections of the beach from high winds, making it family-friendly. There are plenty of wild open spaces to explore, too; the 200-year-old lighthouse at Montauk Point is a must-see.

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Waikiki Beach, Hawaii A popular spot for honeymooners and couples, Waikiki beach is somewhere you dream of being on a cold winter’s night in England - think swaying palms, clear green waters and pure white sand. It’s also the most famous beach in Hawaii with visitors coming to relax on hammocks, sip cocktails and stay in high-end resorts. The two-mile stretch of beach has eight different sections making it easy to be as relaxed or as active as you wish - whether you are looking to surf, canoe, snorkel, swim, sun-bathe, people-watch or admire the setting sun, there’s a part of Waikiki Beach for you. Don’t leave without trying poke, the raw Sashimi that’s a local delicacy.

Virginia Beach, Virginia Virginia Beach has everything you need for a family holiday, with plenty to see and do for children of all ages. With multiple beaches and several different districts – each with its own eclectic personality – it will be hard to see it all in a week. Head to Oceanfront for live music, outdoor cafes and a three-mile boardwalk; Sandbridge for relaxing beaches, sand dunes, kayaking and crab shacks; Pungo for farm shops and countryside charm; Chesapeake Bay for calm, shallow waters and a laid-back vibe; Town Center for shopping, arts, culture and restaurants; Inland for clapboard houses, specialty stores and breweries; and ViBe for creativity and crafts. Told you you’d need more than week…

CANADA Long Beach, British Columbia Located in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve – with its ancient rainforests and abundant wildlife – Vancouver Island is a nature-lovers paradise. Long Beach is, as the name suggests, a long stretch of unspoilt coastline (35km) facing several boutique and high-end properties. The national park itself is geared up for visitors wishing to enjoy the great outdoors with camping, kayaking and canoeing, hiking and surfing all on offer. You can even join a campfire and listen to thousand-year-old stories of the Nuu-chah-nulth culture.

Children will love exploring the tidal pools teeming with sea life or paddling in the sea.

Devonshire Beach, Alberta Thanks to the large, 1,500-year-old sand dunes fringing this 7km-long stretch of coastline, Devonshire Beach is the location of the annual sand-building competition, with many creations shared on social media during the day. The stretch of groomed beach is also a popular spot for swimming and surfing, while nearby Slave Lake is ideal for fisherman and families, who come during the summer months to swim in the warm, current-free waters. Accommodation options include the Super 8 Slave Lake, which has a waterslide, and the Marten River Campground.

Wasaga Beach, Ontario Tweens, teens and twenty-something’s flock to Wasaga beach each year to browse the trinket and clothes stores, try their hand at windsurfing or catch the rays on the 14kmstretch of white sand, making it the longest freshwater beach in the world. The shallow waters are so safe, parents of older children can retreat to quieter spots further along the beach, where mountains frame the panorama, and relax. Beyond the sand there are trails for hiking, cycling, cross-country skiing (yes, skiing) and snowmobiling; rivers for kayaking and fishing, and courses for playing a round of golf. A full programme of entertainment also runs throughout the year.

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Spirit of Adventure Launching Summer 2020 Introducing Saga’s second state-of-the-art new cruise ship.

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To book visit heathrow.com/fast-track Important information: All passengers flying out of Heathrow Airport are subject to the same security procedures and regulations. Heathrow recommends that passengers ensure that they have allowed enough time for the usual security and x-ray screening. As a premium experience, customers who have purchased access to Fast Track Security will be given a priority service to ensure that waiting is kept to a minimum. However, we cannot guarantee a maxi-mum or minimum queue length or time. Access to Heathrow’s Fast Track Security is granted through a pre-booked time slot. Whilst Heathrow will endeavour to ensure that all passengers are able to access Fast Track, access may be denied for latecomers. Please remember that it is the passenger’s responsibility to ensure they arrive at the departure gate at the published boarding time as stated by the airline. Heathrow Airport is not responsible for any passengers who miss their flight because they did not allow enough time to go through the check-in and security process. Please note all passengers including infants and babies require both an airline ticket and a Fast Track ticket if they want to pass through Fast Track security.

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www.berninaexpress.ch

Bernina Express From glaciers to palms

Experience one of the most spectacular ways to cross the Alps: The Albula and Bernina lines of the Rhaetian Railway. One of the highlights is the panoramic journey through the UNESCO World Heritage RhB.

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Information / Reservation / Sales Rhaetian Railway, Railservice, Tel +41 (0)81 288 65 65, railservice@rhb.ch, www.rhb.ch

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