Winter on Mackinac Island

Photos and article by PATRICK MCBRIARTY

To begin 2016, I spent most of January in an empty hotel on Mackinac Island. Can you say r-e-d-R-U-M, R-E-D-R-U-M?!?

As a Chicago author and avid sailor, the opportunity to visit in the winter was simply too tantalizing to pass up. After multiple Chicago-Mac Races, I was quite familiar with the island in highseason, but would I go crazy by myself for so long?

I arrived by ferry and the welcoming smell of fudge and horses, part island charm and part pragmatics, was missing. The air was clean, cold, and crisp, and the sweet, earthy mix of horses and confectioners was surprisingly absent. The usually busy Main Street was a ghost town with practically no one on the street or sidewalks. The hotels, restaurants and shops all closed for the season. Originally a rendezvous for Native Americans and then fur traders, it has become a huge draw for summer getaways by the less rugged, but often equally as curious American tourist.

However, my invitation to Mackinac Island in the winter was not spooky. It was a gift, both literally and figuratively. Yes, I admit I still had mental reservations and concerns. Several years ago I met, and am now terribly thankful to, Liz Ware who is now associated with the Mission Point Resort. She believed in my work enough to grant an Artist in Residency at Mission Point. So all I had to do was get there, feed myself and focus on writing for a couple weeks. Fears unfounded, it made for the greatest gift an author could imagine. And true, I did walk through all the open rooms on the entire third floor under the pretense of looking for a spare blanket, which did help calm my early fears. Still the least sound carried and it was a bit weird.

Many would ask, who goes to Mackinac in continued on next page

January? Are you crazy, wasn’t it cold enough in Chicago already? The short answer is well, not a lot of people, and yes –Heerrree's Joohnnieee (I would joke on social media), but somehow the usual 5-15 degree colder temperatures and greater snowfall seemed easier to deal with than in Chicago. Estimates put somewhere between 300 and 500 people on Mackinac in winter, but to me it felt like a lot less. Either way, getting on and off the Island for locals is fairly routine, and walking to town, getting a bite to eat, or a drink is much more straightforward than in high-season. It was unusual to see anyone while walking to town, particularly after dark. In the summer you are constantly dodging and weaving to get anywhere.

Shedding the city mindset and reclaiming a sense of space and nature were transformative. Really, TRANSFORMATIVE! I know that word is overused and tired, yet how else to describe the peace and joy of simple living, day-to-day. Getting off the treadmill for an extended stay gave me an internal sense of peace, that I had missed for longer than I knew.

Not to imply life is so simple it is backward on the Island. There is internet, cable television and cell phone coverage – never had a connectivity problem – and two restaurants and a grocery store are open year-round, so all the basics are available. It was easy to work most or all-day and each day or two take the 10-minute walk or 5-minute snowmobile to Doud’s Market, the Mustang Lounge or Village Inn to eat or procure supplies. Living or visiting, even in the winter, is very doable, just not so elaborate or complicated as summer. And maybe that is the best difference!

The people on the Island are reserved, allowing newcomers to come and go about their business with minimal interruption. Yet, everyone is really nice, friendly and interested, but not nosey. Some might mistake their reserve for aloofness, but just share something about yourself and you start a conversation. Folks there will happily share the island’s charm and their experiences.

Essentially there is time. Time to gaze out at the water, to track the changing weather, watch freighters going through the Straights, wander around, or sit by a fire and tell stories. Mix in a vast array of birds, ducks, the occasional owl, beaver lodge with five residents, and the harbor otters provide just enough distractions to watch, explore and not be bored. I even tried exploring at night and ventured a ways around the back side of the Island. Other than my own fears it was really not scary, just very dark and quiet.

My favorite distraction, mid-day or late afternoon was to cross-country ski. One hour

usually turned into two or more. The solitude of the woods and lure of the island’s interior made it tough to return to work. The snow was plentiful, usually fresh from a light dusting overnight. I brought my own skis, but they can be rented on island, although snowmobiles cannot. I tried both, and night snowmobiling was thrilling, while skiing in the woods at night was prohibitive. Next time I will bring a headlamp and give it another go. At the beginning of the season lanterns are placed on many trails and about once a month a night ski and ice skating is organized. Of course I missed the first of these not knowing it was going on the second night I was there.

I definitely recommend taking a good camera on most any island excursion as the scenery is just stunning. The natural beauty and varied weather provided a different backdrop day-to-day, even hour-to-hour. With winter sunrises at about 8 a.m. and sunset around 5:30 p.m., the shortened day seemed to let everyone relax a bit, ease into the day and less likely to stay up late.

In the off-season, most days a regular militia of workers arrive with the morning ferry (about 8:30 a.m. from St. Ignace), assuming the ice has not become too thick, and leave with the evening ferry (about 4:30 p.m.). This ingenious crew of mostly trades people do the major maintenance, refurbish and improvement projects for the hotels and businesses on an island. Ingenious because much of the work is done in below-freezing conditions on an island were you can’t just run to a Home Depot if you suddenly need or forgot something. A lot of work gets done to facilitate the great hospitality tourists come to depend on all summer.

The island tends to draw in real characters and some of the most interesting people. The winter folk, workers and residents greatly appreciate the place and most have some kind of creative pursuit on the side. From the guy painting the hallway walls, where I was staying, who recently completed a novel, to the security guy who is part historian and former film professional. This naturally beautiful island and its unique residents have the longest running mayor of any municipality in the United States, as Margaret Doud has held the office for the past 40 years (the mayor is elected annually).

It was a great stay, I met some wonderful new people, and really enjoyed my experience. Slowing down to enjoy the simple things, I wish I could have stayed longer, and will definitely go back again in the winter! (And, really, it wasn't scary at all!! ;)