FOOD & DRINK

Jamaica-born chef Ricardo Blake just wants to be authentic, and he’s got the unforgettable jerk chicken to prove it. MATT SCHWERIN FOR CHICAGO READER

I didn’t hear about it until October, when it started catching my eye on Instagram (@stbessjerkchicken). That’s when Exclusive773 impresario Steve Wazwaz, who was looking for a dependable caterer to work his charity events, was impressed enough that he bought in, taking over marketing. Business took o thanks in part to his significant social media presence, but certainly due to Blake’s commitment to cooking entirely from scratch.

That’s particularly evident in the half birds roasted in a barrel smoker over live coals until Blake’s sweet and slowly piercing marinade is married to the smoke. The smell of it makes it di cult to concentrate on anything else, but seafood jerk plates, along with his more stewy dishes, are just as compelling: jiggling oxtails, chunks of meaty goat, brown stewed chicken, all practically melting into the background of a bed of sauce-soaked rice. A focused lineup of sides—say creamy mac and cheese, or soft, almost caramelized cabbage—beg to jump in, adding their own textures.