Sula Monday Night Foodball is back for 2023, starting with Balkan food at Ludlow Liquors.

FOOD & DRINK

ANNOUNCEMENT

Are you ready for some Foodball?

Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up, kicks off 2023 at Ludlow Liquors.

By MIKE SULA

Back in days of yore, when Ludlow Liquors fi rst swung its doors open in Avondale, the work of its kitchen and fi rst chef was described as a “permanent food installation.” In the years since, there’s been nothing permanent about it, as it has been home to an ever-shifting but always interesting cast of weird and wonderful kitchen warriors: Nick Jirasek and his Beefy Boys and crab “dragoon”; Mickey Neely and his Sicilian pies and Wee B’s-style burgers; “Asian stoner food” power couple SuperHai—and a whole rogues’ gallery of pop-up chefs.

This January 23 another concept settles in on the corner of California and Wellington when Monday Night Foodball launches a new 2023 season. Sure, I’m sad that the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up is leaving its ancestral home at the Kedzie Inn, but Ludlow already feels comfortable. And not much is changing except the coordinates: you can still read about each chef and their menus every week right here, and access the earliest menu drops by following each chef, @chicago_reader, and @mikesula on Instagram. We’ve assembled a stellar lineup, if I may say so myself, with old and new faces alike, from separate but equally sorcerous Texas-style barbecue specialists like Mike Shaker of Shaker Barbecue and Joe Yim of Knox Ave BBQ to Michelin-grade smokers Tom Rogers and Adam McFarland of Better Boy.

We have Jamaican food from Tameisha Brown of Be Irie Restaurant, fresh off her pop-up debut at Honey Butter Fried Chicken; crunchwrap king Khaled Simon of Taco Sublime; and a cheese party from Reader People issue star Alisha Norris Jones of Immortal Milk.

Palita Sriratana of Pink Salt is coming back hot from her recent Thailand travels; Jessica Walks First of Ketapanen Kitchen headlines with Native, Tribal, and foraged foods; MNF veterans Thattu preview their up-and-coming Keralan street food brick-and-mortar; and Foodball OGs Joey Pham ( a Flavor Supreme) and Mike “Ramen Lord” Satinover are joining forces with Cat Pham (aka @scratchsni purr) for a post-Super Bowl/pre-Valentine’s wonton soup and egg roll night.

But fi rst it’s all kicking o with Marko and Nemanja Milunovic, whose marvelous Balkan eats and drinks launched the 2022 season. More on that in the next story.

That ain’t all. There are other big Foodball doings in store in 2023, so put your fat pants on and strap in. v @MikeSula

BENEFITS ARE WITHIN REACH!

The Benefits Access Network helps connect neighbors to food and medical benefits like SNAP and Medicaid in Austin, Englewood and Lawndale.

Assistance is free.

LEARN MORE AT:

chicagosfoodbank.org/BAN

Monday Night Foodball

the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up series, now at Ludlow Liquors. Follow the chefs, @chicago_reader, and @mikesula on Instagram for weekly menu drops, ordering info, updates, and the stories behind Chicago’s most exciting foodlums.

Jan. 23: Balkan Promises with Nemanja and Marko Milunovic @nemanja_milunovic_ Jan. 30: Texas-style barbecue with Shaker Barbecue @shakerbarbeque Feb. 6: Keralan Foodball OGs Thattu @thattuchicago Feb. 13: Wonton soup and egg roll night with Joey Pham, Mike Satinover & Cat Pham @prettyhandsomeboyjoey @ramen_lord @scratchsniffpurr Feb. 20: Original cheese crust Taco Sublime @tacosublimechi Feb. 27: Jamaican defrost with Be Irie @beirierestaurantchi March 6: Indigenous foods initiative with Jessica Walks First of Ketapanen Kitchen @ketapanenkitchen

Head to chicagoreader.com/food-drink/ for weekly menus and ordering info

Find more one-of-a-kind Chicago food and drink content at chicagoreader.com/food.

FOODBALL

Nemanja and Marko Milunovic return to Monday Night Foodball

The brothers behind the late, great Kiosk Balkan Street food will take to the kitchen on January 23.

By MIKE SULA

Have you eaten at Aba in the last year?

If you’ve taken a table at Lettuce Entertain You’s Israeli-ish Fulton Market concept, there’s a good chance the production and plating of your house-made stracciatella with sherry vinaigrette, tru e-baked orzo, or black garlic shrimp scampi was supervised by Nemanja Milunovic, one of the restaurant chefs de cuisine.

I bet they were spot-on perfect.

How do I know this? Milunovic is a consummate professional, a true chignón, and, prior to his current corporate gig, the chef behind the short-lived but brilliant Kiosk Balkan Street Food ghost kitchen.

Kiosk closed abruptly due to the sudden passing of Milunovic’s mom—just as his particular star was rising. When he returned from an extended mourning period in Serbia (with a pit stop in Istanbul), he had to fi nd a steady gig—and he found it in the warm, stable embrace of the Lettuce empire. He’s been there all year, making sure every plate is perfect.

You know what you can’t eat at Aba? Milunovic’s extraordinary somun, the pillowy, tortoise-shell-shaped bread that distin-

FOOD & DRINK

guished each of Kiosk’s magnifi cent sandwiches, a kind of steroidal pita that formed the foundation of one of the undersung champions of the Great Chicken Sandwich Wars of 2021.

But you know where you can eat that crispy buttermilk-brined breast, topped with punchy cabbage salad, pickles, and the chili and goat cheese compound urnebes? At Ludlow Liquors in Avondale this January 23, when Milunovic takes over the kitchen for the 2023 season opener of Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up.

It’s fi tting Milunovic is inaugurating our new home. It’s been nearly a year to the day since he opened the 2022 season at the Kedzie Inn, a triumphant event that’s haunted everyone who tasted his pizza burek, one of the best things I’d eaten last year.

No burek this time, but he’s bringing back a couple other unforgettable items from that enchanted night, such as the all-beef grilled cevapi, swaddled in somun with red pepper ajvar, and creamy kajmak cheese spread. He’s also serving up the iconic karadjordjeva schnitzel, a rolled pork tenderloin piped with molten mozzarella and provolone, then breaded and deep fried to a phallic crisp.

You’ll want to take these with a side of fries dusted with the Bosnian fl avor enhancer vegeta, but you especially need his oyster-cremini, portobello-hon shimeji

NEMANJA&MARKOMILUNOVIC CHICAGOREADER

MondayNightFoodball 01.23.2023

RAKIJATAIL

ChamomileInfusedAgedSljivovitz,All SpiceLiqueur,PeachLiqueur,Ginger Syrup,LimeJuice,AngosturaBitters

RAKIJASOUR AgedSljivovitz,Aperol,PrunePurée, LemonJuice,SimpleSyrup,Angostura andChocolateBitters

MORAVSKA SALAD

CEVAPI 5EACH

FRIEDCHICKEN SANDWICH

KARADJORDJEVA SCHNITZEL

MUSHROOM GOULASH

FRIES

REFORMTORTA

RoastedSweetandHotPeppers, Tomatoes,RoastedGarlic,Scallions, BalkanDressing

SomunBread,Ajvar,Kajmak,Onions

SomunBread,Urnebes,DillPickles, CabbageColeslaw

TartarSauce

Mushrooms,Onions

VegetaSeasoning

ChocolateCream,Walnut Sponge,ChocolateGlaze

DineIn/PickUpLocation LudlowLiquors

2959NCaliforniaAve,Chicago,IL60618

Contact

nmmilunovic@gmail.com $12

$12

$8

$12

$13

$15

$8

$5

$7

The menu for the next Monday Night Foodball

NEMANJA

MILUNOVIC mushroom goulash, a tribute to the version his grandmother made after summer family foraging trips in the Serbian Kopaonik mountains.

You can cut the richness of all this with roasted hot and sweet pepper moravska salad, but please don’t fail to tip the scales back with a slice of the classic Serbian chocolate walnut reform torta.

Once again Milunovic has teamed up with his barkeep brother Marko, now behind the stick at Lazy Bird. He’s come up with a couple of aged plum brandy-based cocktails, one a ri on the classic Lion’s Tail, with chamomile-infused slivovitz and allspice and peach liqueur, the latter a sweet reminder of the fruit kompot the brothers drank as kids. The other is an egg-free sour with prune puree and chocolate bitters, a nod to the chocolate-enrobed fruit endemic after the plum season.

Order those at the bar, but preorder your food right now, right here: forms.gle/Yf3XgEL1SJnxcHQJ8. There will only be limited walk-in availability. Milunovic’s old Kiosk regulars keep asking him when he’s going to cook Balkan food again. They’ll be there for sure, so look alive. It all starts at 5 PM at Ludlow Liquors, 2959 N. California in Avondale. Meanwhile, check out the full Monday Night Foodball schedule on page six. v @MikeSula