October 2020 by Chesapeake Bay Magazine

Annapolis Redefined

Resilient to the core, Annapolis has been redefining itself for nearly 400 years. This Navy town has a track record of rolling with the punches and emerging ever new. But don’t take our word for it. We invite you to hop in the car and drive to a place where life’s simple pleasures abound. Treat yourself to an afternoon of sailing or cruising the Chesapeake Bay. Dine and shop al fresco along centuries-old brick-lined streets. Bike or hike our miles of trails. Discover best kept secrets on a ghost or history tour before calling it a day at a historic inn or hotel. Discover Annapolis redefined.

P L A N YO U R S TAY AT V I S I TA N N A P O L I S . O R G

ADMIRE HER WHILE YOU CAN! ( B Y THE TIME YOU TURN THIS PAGE SHE’LL BE GONE.)

Get a GEICO quote for your boat and, in just 15 minutes, you’ll know how much you could be saving. If you like what you hear, you can buy your policy right on the spot. Then let us do the rest while you enjoy your free time with peace of mind. geico.com/boat | 1-800-865-4846

Some discounts, coverages, payment plans, and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or in all situations. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. In the state of CA, program provided through Boat Association Insurance Services, license #0H87086. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2020 GEICO 20_206641

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Prepping Your Boat to Sell Tips for selling a boat for top dollar

By Chris Beardsley, Yacht Broker, North Point Yacht Sales

o you’ve decided to sell your boat. By now you’ve started to gather information, history, inventory of equipment, and upgrades for the listing. The question is: what sets your boat apart from other boats on the market? It’s not only the physical features and gear but the presentation that is a key factor in attracting buyers and keeping offers close to your asking price. In order to be at the top of the market in price, the boat needs to command attention in both it’s condition and appearance.

Put Yourself In The Buyers Shoes

As a seller, an important exercise is to put yourself into the buyer’s shoes and eliminate as many potential objections as possible. Think back to the day you first saw your boat and what drew you to making the decision to buy. Buyers will likely be looking at several different boats in their buying process, starting with viewing photographs online and touring several boats, then narrowing their search to a small group of makes and models. When they step on board, that’s usually the time they decide whether the boat is a contender for their purchase or if it is one they will rule out, so first impressions are important.

Make A List Of Easy Repairs Or Upgrades

2 3

Every boat will have a list of things that can or need to be done. Making a list of these things and any repairs that haven’t yet been completed can help prioritize what needs to be done before the boat is on the market as well as prepare for any potential survey findings that may become negotiating items before closing. Oftentimes, if there are repairs that need to be done, the buyer will ask for a larger concession in price than the actual cost to err on the side of caution and limit their expense—especially if the items were not disclosed prior to the survey. Going through the boat’s systems to know exactly what works and what doesn’t can give you the opportunity to make the easy fixes, schedule repairs, or have quotes in place. This can be used in negotiations to avoid too large of a concession.

Clear Out The “Stuff”

Over the length of ownership, boats tend to collect a lot of “boat stuff” in addition to personal items. Going through and making sure the boat is as free of clutter as possible will help the boat show its true size, storage capabilities and let the buyer envision how they will move aboard and make it their own. Any personal items that do not convey with the sale should be removed prior to showings. If you plan to use the boat while it is on the market, keeping on board only what is essential will allow you to store these items in one designated area when you are not on board and the boat is being shown. Make sure your broker knows to relay to prospective buyers what does and does not convey. Selling a boat is often bittersweet. Many memories have been made onboard, and the sale will open the door for new opportunities or hopefully, your next boat. Remembering what it was that helped you make the decision that your boat was “the one”, and passing that on, will only improve the sale experience for both you and the buyer. Ask your broker what other boats they would show in the area to prospective buyers if they wanted comparisons. Your broker may be able to arrange to show you those boats as well. Knowing your competition is a great advantage when making your boat presentable and more attractive.

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Volume 50

Number 6

PUBLISHER

John Stefancik

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Meg Walburn Viviano

MANAGING EDITOR Chris Landers

Cruising Editor: Jody Argo Schroath Multimedia Journalist: Cheryl Costello Contributing Editor: Susan Moynihan Editors at Large: Wendy Mitman Clarke, Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams Contributing Writers: Rafael Alvarez, Laura Boycourt, Larry Chowning, Ann Eichenmuller, Henry Hong, Marty LeGrand, Emmy Nicklin, Nancy Taylor Robson, Karen Soule

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jill BeVier Allen

Contributing Photographers: Andy Anderson, Mark L. Atwater, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, K.B. Moore, Will Parson, Tamzin B. Smith, Chris Witzgall

PRODUCTION MANAGER Patrick Loughrey

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Ogar

ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Emily Stevenson • 410-924-0232 emily@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Megan Tilley • 919-452-0833 megan@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Publisher Emeritus Richard J. Royer

CIRCULATION Susan LaTour • 410-263-2662 office@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC Chief Executive Officer, John Martino Executive Vice President, Tara Davis 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Editorial: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Circulation: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Billing: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 12 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2020 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2020

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contents

CBM

Boat shows canceled? We’ve got you covered. p. 42

TALK OF THE BAY

Brackish Buccaneers A new

book tells the tale of the Bay’s more recent pirates—Kristina Gaddy

October 2020—Volume 50 Number 6

Hog Island Figs Robert Gustavson goes in search of a barrier island delicacy.

Restoring Delaware Charlie Youngmann tries his hand at being a shipyard apprentice for a day.

Where We’re Headed 78

78 Baltimore 42

42 Annapolis 24

FEATURES SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

St. Michaels, Md.

Hog Island, Va.

York River

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42 The 2020 Boat Boom The pandemic sparked a surge in boating. With no shows this fall, how do you check out the newest boats? Start right here.

20 91

78 Privateer Pride

Baltimore’s Thomas Kemp built the ships that took the fight to the British—Tim Grove

On the Cover: The Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 Photo by Julien Gazeau October 2020

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

JOSH DAVIDSON

CBM

contents

Columns

On Boats: Grand Banks 54

Chesapeake Chef: Rockfish Imperial Chef Jordan Lloyd, of Tickler’s

This motoryacht is stable and quiet for cruising at any speed—Capt. John Page Williams.

October 2020

Departments

14 16 104

Crab Shack, brings two local faves together.

BONUS On Boats: Regulator 24XO A versatile fishing boat that does

Chesapeake Almanac: Amphipods Capt. John Page Williams

Wild Chesapeake: Wreck Fishing

Jody’s Log: The Bay’s Back Ways

Online Stern Lines

Bay Partners

84 99

it all—Capt. John Page Williams.

sings the praises of the Bay’s tiny heroes.

From the Editor

Real Estate Brokerage

Capt. Chris D. Dollar‘s column this month is a total shipwreck.

Capt. Jody Argo Schroath tours Back Creek. All of them.

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CBM CHESAPEAKE BAY MAGAZINE

Studying A Rising Tide— Urgent Wetland Science

Digging Up the Elusive Hayman Sweet Potato

from the editor Deadrise Connection— A Son’s Quest for Closure

The BOAT SHOW Issue

3 Days in

Naptown

MAGAZINE October 2019

FIRST LOOK—p.88

MAGAZINE October 2017 MAGAZINE October 2018

Sailmaking

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Following the Trail of

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

The BOAT SHOW Issue

A Fresh Look at Cambridge

The Valhalla Project— Sailing with Warriors

The Boat Show Issue— Annapolis Programs Included

iPad Navigation— Charting by Tablet

The Non-Boat Show Issue by Meg Walburn Viviano

o what are we calling this, anyway? The question went round and round the CBM office (the virtual office, of course—the one where we all interact via a multi-box screen like the Brady Bunch). Traditionally, the October edition of Chesapeake Bay Magazine is the “Boat Show Issue”—as it should be. It’s always chock-full of boating resources and sneak peeks of new boats, just in time for the iconic U.S. Sailboat and Powerboat Shows in Annapolis. But this is 2020, there are no Annapolis boat shows, and it’s time to reimagine what we traditionally do in October. As with the rest of 2020, the entire Chesapeake Bay boating season has been unlike any other, starting with Maryland’s unprecedented month-long ban on recreational boating. That drought gave way to a summer surge in boating, paddling, and boat ownership. People who usually take their boats out three or four times a year were hitting the water every weekend. Fourth of July-level boat traffic became the norm. I’m thrilled to see that boating is having a moment, especially among new adopters and casual boaters with plenty of time on their hands. People who have always dreamt of buying a boat are pulling the trigger. Cruisers who couldn’t get away from work long enough for an extended voyage are seizing the chance to take bigger cruises, while working remotely. Yes, it’s been far from a typical boating season—it’s been better. If anything, the need for an issue dedicated to the rich boating resources along the Bay is greater than ever. In a season with no local boat shows, how can boat buyers shop around (safely)? Which brilliant new gadgets on the market are making the boating experience better? And which boat models released this year deserve a closer look? This issue has the answers. We’re also doubling up on our in-depth boat reviews and curating worthwhile cruise destinations near and far. Nope, we can’t call this the Boat Show Issue, but we can help you find what you’re looking for. It’s a great time to be a boater.

Meg Walburn Viviano, raised on the Magothy River, spent her college years rowing on the Chester for Washington College. She wrote her first Chesapeake Bay Magazine feature as a 19-year-old intern. After a decade producing television news, Meg returned to CBM to launch the Bay Bulletin online news source. She now leads all of CBM’s media content, and lives with her husband and two young sons near the Baltimore waterfront. You can reach her at meg@chesapeakebaymagazine.com.

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online

VIDEO: Experience A Day in Mathews County

VIDEO: Rainy-Day Family Fun on Va.’s Northern Neck

This area of Virginia’s Middle Peninsula boasts gorgeous beaches, a quaint downtown, and a vibrant artisan scene, as well as a strong aquaculture presence. Watch the video at chesapeakebaymagazine.com/mathewscounty.

The new Compass Entertainment Complex brings a sixscreen cinema, restaurant, arcade and more to Irvington. Watch the video at chesapeakebaymagazine.com/ compassentertainment.

u Read more and sign up for the Bay Bulletin, CBM’s free weekly e-newsletter online at chesapeakebaymagazine.com/baybulletin.

Unstable Financial Times Call for an Expert Approach During volatile markets, it’s common for investors to worry about their money. And that can lead to bad decisions. If your investments are down, should you sell? Or hold steady? Having a plan tailored to your investment preferences, risk tolerances and income needs for both today and the future helps take away the worry that can lead to bad investment decisions during current market and economic turmoil. That’s why it’s so important to have a relationship with a trusted wealth management expert. An expert that gets to know you. “I love sitting down with prospective clients,” says Stephen Holt, managing partner for Premier Planning Group. “I want to know what makes them happy and when they want to retire. I take people through the planning process and show them where they are today; where they can be in the future; and watch the worry and fear go away because of the plan.” Since 2001, Annapolis-based Premier Planning Group has approached wealth management with a “we guide, you decide” vision.

“Most people have become conditioned that they can only invest in stocks, bonds, and mutual funds,” Holt says. “But as they change jobs or turn age 59.5, the dollars in their retirement plans can be fully diversified through tax-free rollovers into an entire universe of investment options. That’s when the plan can completely come together and the worry goes away.” Premier does things differently than most wealth managers. Their hands-on approach to financial guidance means you won’t just hear from them when they have advice to offer. They see your relationship as a partnership. You’re invited to fishing trips, wine and bourbon tastings, cooking classes and the annual holiday party. Because Premier doesn’t just consider you a client; they count you as a member of the family.

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CBM

talk of the bay

Dominic Michael Serres’s depiction of the French cutter ‘La Paix’ entering a harbor on a port tack.

Brackish Buccaneers New book looks at Chesapeake pirates by Kristina Gaddy

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

n outlaw of the ocean was terrorizing the Chesapeake Bay. Someone had spotted La Paix near Lynnhaven Bay in the spring of 1700, and that meant merchants were in danger. The ironically named ship (it means The Peace in French) was captained by Louis Guittar, a Frenchman with a penchant for raiding and stealing. The Bay had been a commercial hub of the British colonies for decades, with ships coming and going from Africa, the Caribbean, Europe, and other ports in North America. Guittar arrived with his crew of 150 men to take advantage of this trade, seizing at least three vessels in a week, according to Jamie L.H. Goodall’s Pirates of the Chesapeake Bay: From the Colonial Era to the Oyster Wars. Guittar is one of Goodall’s favorite pirates covered in her new book. “He had a very prolific, but short, career,” she says. He’s also what a reader might imagine when they envision a pirate: a gutsy Frenchman of colonial times, boarding and plundering ships, taking men captive, stealing sails and rigging, and even burning boats when his crew felt so inclined.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2020

Governor Francis Nicholson of Virginia, who did not share Goodall’s opinion, quickly dispatched military vessels to capture Guittar and 124 pirates. A 12-hour battle raged before Guittar finally surrendered. Nicholson sent the pirates to England to be tried. “Guittar and 23 of his men were hanged” in a single day, Goodall writes, and left along the Thames River until their corpses turned black.

Goodall’s book is deeply researched, but in her personal life she lets go of the historical accuracy for a broader appreciation of pirates. She loves the Pirates of the Caribbean films for their historical inaccuracies, and you may see her wandering the Maryland Renaissance Festival as the ship’s scholar of the fictional Mare Nostrum, with an “over-the-top” costume that is “very much in the way of the fictional pirate.” Goodall makes a point to highlight more than just the stereotypical image of swashbuckling pirates made famous by Robert Louis Stevenson (and later, Disney). While pirates in the Caribbean loom large in our imaginations, “I was surprised to find that not much had been written on pirates in the Chesapeake,” says Goodall, who wrote her Ph.D. thesis on piracy, illicit trade, and commercial networks in the colonial Atlantic world. An editor at the History Press heard about her research and approached her about writing a book specifically about the Chesapeake Bay, since she was living in Maryland at the time. She notes there is a book about pirate history in the area (Pirates on

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Pirates dominated the Chesapeake Bay Oyster Wars in the 1880s.

the Chesapeake, by Donald Shomette), but it stops at 1807. “I wanted to take it further,” she says, noting that piracy and privateering extended through the War of 1812, the Civil War, and into the 20th century with the Oyster Wars. These were the truly untold stories of pirates of the Chesapeake. “We don’t talk about the Oyster Wars a lot when we talk about the Bay,” she says, but there were “almost 100 years of oyster pirating.” Much of what Goodall shares in her book breaks the stereotypes of what it means to be a pirate. “You didn’t just wake up and decide you wanted to be a pirate,” she says. “You mutinied and became a pirate, or you were recruited, or forced into service.” Life aboard merchant and military vessels was rough, and piracy offered a way to make money. She also points out that pirates were not the egalitarians we sometimes imagine. “We think of them as the underdogs fighting for freedom against ‘the man,’ but they operated very much under the capitalist culture.” This was especially true when it came to raiding slaving ships. While some would free enslaved captives, or offer

them an opportunity to join the ship, others “treated them as a commodity, and would seize and sell them at the nearest port.” Another one of Goodall’s favorite stories comes from the Second Oyster War (1883-1884). Oyster harvesting had become a prominent and lucrative business on the Bay, providing fresh catch for local oyster houses and canneries that shipped oysters across the country. As it has during much of the Bay’s history, overfishing threatened the industry. Dredging was especially damaging to the supply of oysters, scooping up so many oysters that their natural reproductive cycles were damaged. Maryland and Virginia created licensing systems, rules to govern oystering, and even an Oyster Navy, which led to illicit trade, illegal harvesting, and oyster wars. Like Governor Nicholson in 1700, Virginia Governor William E. Cameron did not appreciate illegality on his waters. After the First Oyster War in 1882, where he tried to stop illegal oystering, he tried again to stop another dredging fleet in 1883. He tried and tried to capture these oyster pirates with little success. When one crew spotted a possible vacant pirate ship, the Dancing Molly, off the shore, they thought they could easily capture it. “What they didn’t know was that the captain’s wife and two daughters were still on the ship,” Goodall explains, and all three were skilled seafarers. As they heard the warning shots, the women sailed into Maryland waters for safety. Goodall was pleased to find some female pirates, who are mostly missing from history. “I find them incredibly brave.” The spectators that day also found the women brave, giving them three cheers for humiliating the Governor. Kristina Gaddy writes about history and culture. Her nonfiction book Flowers in the Gutter came out in January. October 2020

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CBM

talk of the bay HOW TO COOK FIGS This recipe comes from The Complete Housekeeper’s Companion by Bessie E. Gunter, published in 1889, just three years before Cleveland visited Hog Island. Ms. Gunter was from Accomack Court House (now called Accomac), only a few miles north of Hog Island. This is probably a very close approximation of the figs Grover Cleveland ate in 1892. In late summer, figs are preserved in this manner in kitchens across the Eastern Shore of Virginia to this day.

Hog Island figs

1. 2.

The Enduring Hog Island Fig

A culinary treasure, preserved on a Virginia barrier island by Robert Gustafson

HELENE DOUGHTY PHOTOS

ineteenth-century visitors to Broadwater, a thriving little community on Hog Island 10 miles off Virginia’s Atlantic shore, often commented on the remarkable abundance, freshness, and diversity of its food. The fruit most singled out for praise was the local fig. A visitor in 1911 noted that “the unique features of the place are luxuriant fig trees, which bear abundantly season after season.” The Hog Island fig’s real 15 minutes of fame was splashed across the nation’s newspapers in the fall of 1892. After winning the presidential election in 1892, Grover Cleveland accepted an offer to visit the Broadwater Club on Hog Island for 10 days of waterfowl hunting. One evening, the best cooks on the island were invited to prepare dinner for

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2020

Scald the figs and let them stand until cold. Make a syrup of one pound sugar, and half pint of water to each pound of figs. Let the syrup come to a boil then drop in the figs and cook slowly until done.

President Cleveland in the club’s kitchen. The New York Herald reported, “The repast has never been excelled on Broadwater Island. . . At dessert some preserved figs, raised on the island and the club’s special pride, were served.” Cleveland returned to Hog Island the following summer on a fishing expedition, so the figs must have been good. But there was looming trouble in paradise. In 1933, a massive hurricane hit Hog Island. The sea washed over the island and residents survived by retreating to the second floor of buildings. When the water subsided, Broadwater was in ruins. Another hurricane hit in 1936. Many families put their houses on barges and relocated to mainland seaside hamlets like Willis Wharf and Oyster, where they remain today. By the 1940s, the island once described as a paradise had been abandoned. And the succulent Hog Island fig was lost.

Or was it? That is the question asked by Bernard L. Herman, culinary super-sleuth and author of the James Beard-nominated A South You Never Ate, and George B. Tindall, Professor of Southern Studies at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Herman wondered if, more than 70 years later, any specimens of the storied fig might have survived. He spoke with some of the families and traveled to the sites of the relocated houses and looked for fig trees. And he found them. Local residents confirmed that their parents or grandparents brought cuttings from the island and planted them in the yards of the transported houses so they could keep a taste of their lost home. Next, Herman set out for Hog Island with local shellfish grower and fig enthusiast Tom Gallivan. Now abandoned and much eroded, the island is protected by The Nature Conservancy. After searching in the tick- and snake-infested scrub, Gallivan remembers, “Right on the very, very edge of the marsh, literally with crab buoys and flotsam and jetsam surrounding the base of it, was a fig tree.” For the better part of a century and with no help from man, the famed figs had endured hurricanes, survived

Dr. Bernie Herman discussing his varieties of Hog Island figs located on his property.

being over-washed with sea water, and withstood drought in the island’s sandy soil. Herman and Gallivan took cuttings and the fig has since been propagated. In 2014, Slow Food International accepted the Hog Island fig into its Ark of Taste, where Hog Island figs are listed alongside artisanal French cheeses and traditional Japanese rice cultivars. The Ark of Taste listing for Hog Island figs describes their taste and utility: “Hog Island figs are notable for their complex flavor, which begins as intensely floral and becomes earthy

and sweet. The fig is widely used in preserves to be spread on bread or used in making desserts.” The Ark of Taste also sounds a warning. Despite the Hog Island fig’s tenacity, it is not indestructible. “Extreme weather such as strong hurricanes and rising water levels related to climate change threaten the naturalized environment of these figs.” “The Hog Island fig is a live thread to the people and the place,” says Sally Dickinson, Education Director at the Barrier Island Center in Machipongo, Virginia. The Barrier Island Center works to preserve and perpetuate the

Inhabitants of Hog Island at the time President Cleveland visited. George Doughty (top right) was the lighthouse keeper and met with President Cleveland to inspect the lighthouse. A postcard showing the South area of Broadwater on Hog Island

Harriet Tubman Mural by Michael Rosato in Cambridge, Maryland. (Photo by Jill Jasuta)

CHESAPEAKE MURAL TRAIL Experience the beauty and fun of the Chesapeake Mural Trail on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. See the Harriet Tubman Mural that has become a viral sensation. Visit other murals that celebrate Eastern Shore life and history, from watermen to the beauty of nature.

VisitDorchester.org 410.228.1000

Download the free audio app! Search for “Visit Dorchester” in Google Play Store or Apple Store to download.

HELENE DOUGHTY

talk of the bay

CBM

Hog Island figs ripen on the bush.

unique culture and history of Virginia’s Barrier Islands. It hosts displays on Hog Island and President Cleveland’s visits, and has incorporated Hog Island fig bushes into its landscaping. I have had the good fortune to eat many Hog Island figs. When perfectly ripe and warm off the bush, I would liken the experience to eating a honey flower. But as David S. Shields makes clear in Southern Provisions: The Creation & Revival of a Cuisine, taste is not only a physiological phenomenon. As it sits on your tongue, it is hard to separate the taste of the Hog Island fig from your appreciation of its history, the tenuousness of its survival, its cultural uniqueness, and its status as a trademark of the community that was and is Hog Island. All these factors contribute to the enduring taste—a direct link to the people who made their homes on an eroding island on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Robert Gustafson is an eastern-shoreman by way of Chicago, Harvard, and a career on Capitol Hill. He lives near Exmore, Va., where he coaches the Broadwater Academy track and cross-country teams.

FIG SOURCES Hog Island figs remain rare and tasting them is not easy. If you are interested in growing your own, every so often the Barrier Island Center in Machipongo, Va. (barrierislandscenter.org) has Hog Island fig bushes for sale. They can be viewed behind the newly refurbished quarter kitchen at the Barrier Island Center. Island View Farms (facebook.com/ islandviewfarmva) in Cape Charles, Va. also grows a limited number of Hog Island figs every summer. In the past they have sold them at the Cape Charles Farmer’s Market (facebook.com/capecharlesfarmers market). With the current COVID-19 restrictions, the schedule of the farmer’s market is uncertain, so contact Matt at Island View Farms regarding availability.

CBM

talk of the bay

The author helps to select the boat’s new “ribs”.

Restoring Delaware A day as an apprentice at Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum by Charlie Youngmann

JOE EVANS PHOTOS

arlier this year I was offered the rare opportunity to help restore a century-old tugboat, piece for piece, authentic to its original construction. The project was part of the Apprentice for a Day program at Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, which offers laypeople the chance to spend the day walking in the shoes of a shipbuilder. I would be working under Jenn Kuhn, the museum’s Shipyard Programs Manager. Kuhn started at the Museum in 2011 as an apprentice herself, and now leads several groups covering various levels of woodworking expertise. Novices are

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October 2020

welcome in the restoration of Delaware, a 1912 river tug; in fact, this particular project is aimed toward people with no prior knowledge at all. We would likely be steam bending new frames, she said when I signed up, but that plan could change, as the restoration effort had been stalled by staffing challenges and was just picking back up again. Delaware needed far more extensive work than the usual repairs done on other boats in Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s (CBMM) permanent collection. “It’s like a retirement home for these historic boats,” Kuhn said. “Delaware’s over a hundred years old and she’s in desperate need of some repair.” In order to keep the shape of the boat true to its original form, Kuhn carefully removes every piece and records its position when necessary. As new components are added, the framework of the tug is used to shape the new pieces and preserve the contours. This process is slow and methodical, and allows CBMM to keep the integrity of the original construction underneath. “I don’t know really if there’s going to be much original fabric or really anything,” Kuhn said. “There might be a deck beam.” Kuhn has a special relationship with the Delaware. Shortly after she started at the maritime museum, she’d helped prepare Delaware for its 100th birthday celebration. Her team took the tug back to its birthplace in Bethel, Delaware where they were met with huge fanfare. “It’s a little tiny town,” she recalled. “[Some] 500 people came to see the boat and get on the boat, and tell stories about how their granddaddy worked on it.” In recent years, Kuhn had been repairing smaller, newer boats, but she’s happy to be working with Delaware again. “It’s really neat for me to be back to working with the older vessels and being able to breathe life back into them, and to respect their history and the people who built them and worked

on them,” she said. “Delaware is one of my favorite boats in our collection.” To get more background on the tug’s history, I turned to Pete Lesher, CBMM’s Chief Curator. Delaware was built in Bethel in 1912, during what he described as the “waning days of the age of sail,” when the United States began building more steam ships than sailing ships. (It is one of two remaining boats built in Bethel around that time; the other is the schooner Victory Chimes, which offers 3- to 6-night cruises out of Rockland, Maine.) “This was about the time that a lot of watermen were starting to tear the sailing rigs out of their boats and buy what they called a ‘one lung’ marine engine—a single cylinder gasoline engine—to drop in their boat, because then they could get home whether or not the wind was blowing,” Lesher explained. Delaware, however, was designed for a gasoline engine—a method of propulsion still relatively innovative for small boats at the time. Tugs like Delaware could take sailing vessels in and out of harbors, thus prolonging the usefulness of sailing ships as gas engines became more common. In 1929, Bailey Marine Construction Inc. bought Delaware and moved it to

CBMM is undergoing a complete restoration of the tug Delaware.

Talbot County, Md. For over 50 years, the tug pulled barges to construction sites around the county, including bulkheads on CBMM grounds in the 1970s. It’s not known exactly how many engines Delaware has housed in her working life, but after World War II she was outfitted with a surplus U.S. Army diesel engine. The transmission has been replaced and parts have been worked on, but after Delaware’s

Delaware’s deck under construction.

restoration, the same engine will likely go back in. Restoration is also being done on the small pilot house, which has room for one person and one person only; the cabin that stretches back behind it, which is mostly an engine room; and the narrow side decks, which again only provide one person egress. With all of this background, I felt like I had already met the boat by the time I drove out to the museum’s shipyard for my one-day apprenticeship. A handful of other people gathered as we started the morning. The air was cold, but under a hat and gloves I was eager to get to work. Kuhn told us that we likely wouldn’t get to steam-bending that day. Instead, in preparation for bending the boards, our job would be choosing new “ribs” of the boat from a selection of wooden planks. Only the best material could make the cut if their restoration efforts were to last well into the future, so boards with big knots and checks or any other sort of damage were culled from the bunch as we determined what would be used on Delaware. Getting my first look at Delaware in its then-present state was admittedly a October 2020

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BEAUTY ON THE BAY Hampton, Virginia boasts excitement, beauty, and adventure as vast as the open seas! Climb aboard the Miss Hampton and tour Chesapeake Bay, or charter a boat and explore the Atlantic Ocean. Feel the rush of adrenaline-pumping watersports, or cast a line for a relaxing time at one of our world-famous fishing piers. Savor the moment, and the flavors, with a mouthwatering seafood feast ffreshly prepared by our talented chefs. Get inspired at visithampton.com

CBM

talk of the bay

bit jarring. There was clearly a boat there—the silhouette was unmistakable, despite the beams and braces that held the frame in place.But its beauty was hard to make out, with jagged ends of boards poking out of every corner and hole, each bearing different tones and layers of paint. Crawling down inside to take measurements was eerie. Every inch of surface area bore its age in a hodgepodge of replacement beams. Nonetheless, we took the length of various boards to determine what would work as a replacement. Towards the end of the day, we took the selected boards and ran them through a thickness planer. As the machine spewed curling wood chips into the air, the whirring blades inside revealed clean surfaces for each board, free of marks and smooth to the touch. While I didn’t get hands-on with steam bending, the Apprentice for a Day experience was fantastic and easy to recommend. On the drive home I thought about my conversation with Lesher and what the future may hold for Delaware. “We are a maritime museum; we are fixed in place, we are 18 acres on the St. Michaels waterfront, but we have these boats,” Lesher said. “They can go other places and reach people that don’t get to St. Michaels.” Last year, CBMM deployed two boats from their fleet, “taking our message as sort of a traveling exhibit to tell the stories all around the Bay. Delaware has the potential to do the same thing for us.” I was grateful and proud that, in some small way, I would be a part of her next chapter. Charlie Youngmann graduated in 2019 from the University of Maryland’s Philip Merrill College of Journalism. He is a former CBM intern.

Well Spoken.

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on boats

u Learn more about the Grand Banks 54 at grandbanks.com.

Grand Banks 54 A stable, quiet motoryacht for cruising at any speed by Capt. John Page Williams

COURTESY PHOTOS

ow can a 54-foot motoryacht lope quietly along at 22 knots while towing little more wake than my 17-foot skiff? The Grand Banks 54 owes its small wake to an efficient semidisplacement hull that keeps its sharp bow just kissing the water, the way a classic Deltaville or Tangier Island workboat does, while soft shoulders ease water out to the side and a Grand Banks 54 nearly flat (8-degree deadrise) LOA: 59' 5" aft section provides lift. Power LOD: 53' 10" on our test boat (GB 54 hull Beam: 17' 6" Draft: 4" (shaft drives) Fuel Capacity: 898 gal. Displacement: 47,400 lbs. (dry) Water Capacity: 290 gal. Holding Tank: 57 gal. Engines: Volvo D11 w/shafts (standard) or Volvo IPS 950s (optional)

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October 2020

#1) is a pair of strong, smooth electronic 725-hp Volvo D11 diesels turning Twin Disc gears and Seatorque enclosed-shaft-and-thrust-bearing systems to conventional propellers. Top-grade cabinetwork, a Grand Banks hallmark—even in the teak soles of the lazarette and engine room—ensure that everything fits. On a hot late-June day, there was no vibration and minimal sound (71 dba, roughly the level of a normal conversation) with the salon doors and windows closed and the air conditioning (and generator) running.

Since 1956, the Grand Banks brand has been known for long-range cruisers, including some of the first displacement “trawler yachts” (initially in all wood and later in fiberglass with traditional interiors) as well as Eastbay motor yachts. In 2014, however, the company acquired Palm Beach Motor Yachts, Australian builders of highperformance cruisers, and Palm Beach’s founder, Mark Richards, became Grand Banks’ CEO. At that point, the company shut down Grand Banks to re-imagine the line. They returned to production a couple of years later with a new line of faster, semidisplacement yachts, with running surfaces designed by Australian naval architect Andy Dovell and topsides by Richards, who has had a long career racing sailing yachts and cruising powerboats. The pair has collaborated for many years. Back on the Chesapeake, Grand Banks Yacht Consultant Ed Roberts used the 54’s bow and stern thrusters to help ease away from Yorktown’s Riverwalk Landing. As he throttled up, the big boat slid smoothly from

7 knots (6 gph fuel burn) to 10 knots (10 gph, 44% load on the D11s) and more. Between 18 and 20 knots, it lifted perceptibly before Ed settled in at 22 knots (28 gph, 76% load, 2,030 rpm) on the run to the Tides Inn in Irvington. (It's designed for fuel-efficient long-range cruising at 20–25 knots). I took the helm for the easy run from New Point to the mouth of the Rappahannock, stopping for a few minutes to try out the big boat’s low speed maneuverability. With the shaft drives, bow thruster, and stern thruster, it was easy to spin in any direction and walk sideways. The Twin Disc electronic control system offers four throttle modes: Cruise, Synch, Express, and Troll. We had been running in “Cruise,” but I was amazed that in “Troll,” the 54 could throttle down to just 1 knot, if anyone were inclined to pull a spread of surgical hose lures at their best swimming speed for rockfish. “Express” provides a gentle hand with a long throttle spread for precise slow-speed docking. High cruise, according to Grand Banks, is 25 knots. Forward-facing, Volvo IPS 950, October 2020

ABOVE: (LEFT) The comfortable, covered cockpit leads to a roomy flybridge. (RIGHT) The airy salon companionway lets in plenty of natural light.

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on boats

dual-propeller pod drives on jackshafts are optional, using the same D11 engines. The IPS drives offer joystick control, slightly higher speeds, lower fuel consumption, and 11" less draft at a price premium. With either drive system, the GB 54 has a range of at least 800 nautical miles at 10 knots, or 950 nautical miles at 7 knots. Another key to this boat’s performance is its relatively light displacement (less than 50,000 lbs.) for a 53-foot-10-inch by 17-foot-6-inch yacht. To achieve this, Grand Banks employs a combination of vacuum infusion and carbon fiber to ensure precision weight control, high strength, and stiffness. Resins are modified epoxy vinylester throughout

for durability and resistance to blistering. Sophisticated engineering and assembly with refined adhesives allow bonding of bulkheads and interior furniture directly to the hull and deck, resulting in an integrated structural unit. That structure also contributes to quiet operation. In addition, the use of carbon fiber in the yacht’s superstructure keeps the center of gravity low, for good inherent stability. It can be enhanced even more with installation of an optional Seakeeper gyro in the lazarette. The structural integrity of the GB 54—indeed, of all Grand Banks yachts—allows it to meet the European CE A standard for seakeeping, meaning that, properly equipped and piloted, it can be

self-sufficient for extended voyages in winds of more than 40 knots and waves greater than 13 feet. Accommodations? Grand Banks designers have been thinking about them since the company’s founding in 1956, with construction by an established yard in Malaysia. For the new 54, they offer two basic layouts. Both come with a roomy, covered flybridge (enclosed skylounge optional); a 10-foot RIB outboard dinghy with crane for deployment; a comfortable, covered cockpit with swim platform; covered side deck walkways; and a bright, airy salon with several options for lounges, chairs, a dinette, and tables. Our test boat has a lower galley to port by the companionway, within sight of the

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helm and open to plenty of natural light. This layout includes a mid-ship master suite and a forward VIP suite, both with island berths. The upper layout also places the galley to port but at salon level, so there is space beneath for a single berth. Both layouts provide master and guest/day heads with showers. It’s rare, however, that any two Grand Banks yachts come out the same, because customization is a natural element in the company’s build process. Part of the company’s pivot in 2014 included a shift from dealership representation to direct customer-factory relationships for the entire buying, build, delivery, and post-sales service experience. I got a taste of that service talking with Ed Roberts’ mate for the trip, Tom Zelinsky, a service coordinator at the Grand Banks Yacht Basin in Stuart, Fl. Tom is a former merchant marine engineer who knows his way around every operating system in the Grand Banks, Eastbay, and Palm Beach yachts. He and Ed formed an experienced team to show off the GB 54. Through people like them, Grand Banks knows its customers, their needs, and their wants. As a result, the company develops strong relationships to ensure a high level of service. Owners thus gain a direct link to the people designing and building their yachts. Grand Banks provides one-on-one training for customers upon delivery of their new yachts, to acquaint them with all the technical components of their boats. Yes, the company may be 64 years old, but its yachts and its business approach are thoroughly 21st century. CBM Editor at Large and author John Page Williams is an educator and Maryland fishing guide. In 2013, the State of Maryland proclaimed him an Admiral of the Bay.

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CBM

chesapeake chef

Tickler’s Crab Shack at Wylder Hotel on Tilghman Island.

J BILL WHALEY

ordan Lloyd grew up fishing and crabbing on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, and this dish combines two Bay delicacies: blue crab and rockfish. It can be found on the menu of Tickler’s Crab Shack and Restaurant at the boutique Wylder Hotel on Tilghman Island, where Lloyd is the executive chef. “Across the region, it’s a versatile dish,” Lloyd says, “with variation from comfort home-style techniques to more dressed-up versions at restaurants. It’s a dish that truly pays homage to, and is a result of, the Chesapeake Bay’s deep-rooted crabbing background.”

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October 2020

Maryland’s Eastern Shore Rockfish Crab Imperial INGREDIENTS (SERVES 4) 4 filets wild striped bass, roughly 5 oz each Salt Crab imperial stuffing 1 lb jumbo lump Maryland crabmeat 1 egg yolk 1 tsp Old Bay ¾ cup mayonnaise 2 tsp Dijon mustard ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp milk, whole 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp parsley, chopped Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Empty the crab meat into a bowl and clean of any shells. In a small bowl, whip the egg yolk and Old Bay together until doubled in volume. Fold mayonnaise, Dijon, and Worcestershire into the yolk/Old Bay paste thoroughly. Reserve 25% of mixture for final glaze. 5. Add milk, lemon, and parsley to the reserved 25% of base sauce. This is the final glaze of the imperial. 6. Add the 75% sauce base portion into the crab. Season with a pinch of salt. Lightly fold the ingredients together, making sure to not break the crab lumps. 7. Season each filet with salt before stuffing. For an added step of quality, lightly rinse each filet in cold, salted water, then pat dry before seasoning. 8. If the filet is thin and long, split the filet down the center, keeping the ends intact. Lay the filets on a lightly buttered sheet pan. Create an oval-shaped hole with each filet and stuff the imperial base in the oval. If the filet is short and fat, spread the imperial base across the top evenly. 9. Divide the imperial stuffing equally across each fish filet. Evenly coat each stuffed rockfish filet with the imperial sauce. This step can be done hours or even 1 day in advance, and refrigerated until ready to cook. 10. Bake in a 350-degree preheated oven. The center of the fish filet and crab imperial stuffing should be hot in the center when finished cooking. Average cooking time will be 10-14 minutes. The best way to check the internal temperature is by inserting a thin paring knife in the center and feeling the heat of the center on the back of your hand. If using a thermometer, 140 degrees is a suitable temperature for cooked imperial stuffing and medium cooked fish. The glaze should be lightly browned and slightly puffed. 11. With a spatula, place the Rockfish Imperial on your serving platter. Add a fresh spritz of lemon, pinch of sea salt, and serve with beautiful local vegetables. Enjoy! October 2020

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CASSIDY MR. PHOTOGRAPHY, CASSIDYMR.COM

1. 2. 3. 4.

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on boats

u Learn more about the Regulator 24XO at regulatormarine.com.

Regulator 24XO Versatility Personified by John Page Williams

o anywhere, do everything” is the mantra for Regulator’s XO “crossover” boats, including the new 24XO introduced in January to follow 2019’s 26XO, so let’s run this new model through a few Chesapeake scenarios. It’s a Regulator, so it’s supposed to be a saltwater fishboat. Regulator 24XO With an optional 36-volt, Minn-Kota Ulterra bow mount trolling motor LOA: 24' 4" with iPilot, it can also carry several Beam: 8' 5" anglers up Virginia’s beautiful, tidal Draft: 16" fresh Chickahominy River or the Bridge Clearance: 8' 4" Upper Bay’s Susquehanna Flats to Transom Deadrise: 17° cast for largemouth bass. Weight: 4,700 lbs.

COURTESY PHOTOS

Fuel Capacity: 86 gal. Water Capacity: 18 gal. Max HP: 300

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October 2020

How about working the flats of Mobjack Bay or Tangier Sound for speckled trout? Certainly. But with the brand’s legendary seaworthiness, this big skiff would also be safe for a prudent skipper to take out to the wrecks off Cape Henry this fall for tautogs and black sea bass, or jig rockfish after Thanksgiving in the mouth of the Potomac and the Bay’s wide-open Southwest Middlegrounds. That’s an unusually broad range of fishability, enhanced by the fact that the 24XO is small enough to tow behind a properly equipped compact pickup truck like a Ford Ranger or a Toyota Tundra. However, with a

price tag between $120,000 and $150,000, depending on options, it had better be able to serve family needs as well, so let’s try several of them. Tubing and other tow sports? Of course, with an optional, removable tow bar on the stern platform. Add the optional forward and aft cockpit sunshades to create a shaded porch at favorite sandbars. Comfortable accommodations include a double seat in the stern deck (which can fold down to clear the deck for casting), space for two at the helm’s seat/leaning post, room for two on the forward side of the console (with a cooler beneath), and a pair of forward-facing lounges with backs port and starboard in the bow (when cushions are snapped onto the forward casting deck). The console holds a portable toilet with easy entry and commodious sitting headroom for adult humans (63"—we checked). So here’s another application: With her inherent stability, roominess, and accommodations, the 24XO would make a perfectly good committee boat for a regatta, and it can certainly serve up to eight people for sunset cruises and picnics. An enterprising

couple with a good list of waterside lodgings could even cruise comfortably for several days anywhere in the Chesapeake and its rivers. What else can we say about this boat? Its hull, designed like all its sisters by noted naval architect Lou Codega, has a graceful Caroline sheerline and flare. Designing this boat was an exercise in scaling down from the 26XO (“squishing” is how Lou put it in a recent conversation). That’s a serious challenge, because of the need to meet specific human dimensions, like making sure the low gunwales (with comfortable bolsters) meet an angler’s calf at appropriate height (20"-26") and still have the cockpit sole high enough above the hull’s waterline to self-drain well. It also means getting the sheerline’s look right, with shorter length than the 26XO while maintaining the proper freeboard. Like the 26XO, the hull’s aft running surface has a deadrise of 17 degrees instead of the 24 degrees of Regulator’s Offshore hulls. That running surface transitions smoothly going forward to a sharp, wave-cleaving bow. Trim tabs, engine trim, and an optional hydraulic jackplate allow a skipper with a lively sense of the hull’s shape to dial in running trim, October 2020

ABOVE: (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) A pair of seats on the forward side of the cabin, with a cooler underneath; leaning post with rod- and cup-holders; power options include Yamaha's F300 4-stroke engine.

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on boats

speed, and draft to fit conditions on any given day. Power choices for the 24XO are Yamaha’s V-6 F250 or F300, two versions of the same powerhead. Both engines prove capable of good performance with this hull. The F300 is generally the better choice, even with a $7,000 price difference, because it enhances resale value and comes with SeaStar Solutions’ smooth Optimus Electronic Power Steering with Tilt Helm. In our sea trial (hull #1, the gray boat on Regulator’s website), the boat showed happy cruise speeds between 23.7 mph at 3,500 rpm (8.6 gph fuel burn) and 37.7 mph at 4,500 rpm (15.3 gph). Top speed at 5,900 was just short of 50 mph. The sweet spot was 3,700 rpm, with 29.8 mph, 9.2 gph. At that speed, the engine is loafing and its range is 250 miles, based on 90 percent of fuel capacity. This is a long-legged boat. After a few years with the Regulator 24XO, a water-loving family may not want to “trade up.” For its price, owners of this boat get an heirloom quality investment that will last a long time and do many jobs well, with little compromise. The quality starts with Lou Codega’s design, runs by Regulator’s exacting engineering department, and goes through meticulous lamination, assembly, and rigging crews, where everything is tied together. It finishes with demanding quality control specialists and strong customer service from top quality dealers. For more information, visit regulatormarine.com. The Chesapeake dealer for Regulator is Bluewater Yacht Sales, with locations in both Virginia and Maryland (bluewateryachtsales. com). CBM Editor at Large and author John Page Williams has been testing boats and showing Chesapeake readers how to use them for more than two decades.

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chesapeake almanac

An amphipod collected from Bennett Creek near the Monocacy River in Frederick County, Md.

Unsung Chesapeake Heroes Tiny amphipods are a critical link in the food web. by Capt. John Page Williams

WILL PARSON/CHESAPEAKE BAY PROGRAM

un a fine-meshed net through an eelgrass bed and shake the bundle of grass you catch onto a board. Tiny, shrimplike crustaceans will fall out by the dozens, including some mating couples, with the male cradling the female. Most are just large enough to see with the naked eye and pick up with fingers; say, a quarter- to half-inch long. If it sounds like this column is getting into the weeds, well, yes, it is—literally. That’s the way the Chesapeake works. Plant material, derived from sunlight, is the base energy source for everything we care about, including these tiny amphipods. “Scavenger” is a term that carries negative connotations, so maybe a better word for amphipods is “opportunist.” These creatures make good use of discarded material and in the process turn themselves into something that some other critters want to eat. Call them what you like, these tiny critters are the unsung heroes of the Chesapeake ecosystem. Six species means there are half a dozen ecological niches for these related but distinct amphipods. An eelgrass bed develops a lot of amphipod food over the course of its growing season, which runs from early spring to now, the onset of fall. Some of it is dead, such as broken-off eelgrass leaves that probably hold algae cells that grew there. The leaves may also hold microscopic live critters, from bacteria and water fleas to copepods, another seriously abundant group of tiny crustaceans. All of this material, alive and dead, comes in a wide range of sizes, especially depending on how wind and waves mechanically break up the plant materials as the season’s weather fronts and storms sweep in from the west.

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October 2020

The different amphipod species have different feeding strategies. Some move around, seeking the most nutritious bits (mostly still alive), while others stay put and feed on whatever comes their way, going through relatively large quantities of material to compensate for the possibility of lower nutrition. Who thought up such an intricate scheme of existence? Food webs like this develop over millennia as critters learn gradually to take advantage of the array of niches an estuary like the Chesapeake presents. Amphipods aren’t large enough to interest full-grown predators such as crabs, rockfish, spot, croakers, speckled trout, flounder, or even black drum, red drum, and gray groupers. But what about first-year juvenile fish? Some of the most common amphipods grow to be four to six millimeters (around a quarter-inch), according to a 1971 study by James Feeley and Marvin Wass. A young fish that is 125 millimeters long (five inches) in October will look at those amphipods the way we’d look at a bowl of 21- to 25-count shrimp. So will “forage fish” like silversides, bay anchovies, and killifish that are mature adults at three to five inches. And who eats them? The grown-up fish that anglers love; blue crabs, when they can catch these forage fish; and fish-eating water birds like herons, terns, skimmers, and gulls. Opportunists all. And now you know how food webs transfer sunlight energy up to top-line predators like us. The Feeley and Wass study went beyond just eelgrass beds at higher salinity levels in the lower York River. It extended fifty miles upstream, to Lester Manor on the Pamunkey, the larger of the York’s two main tributaries. In all but the worst droughts, that water is fresh, though strongly tidal. Do you think they might have found more amphipod species

as they moved their studies up that way? Yes, you’re right. Their study enumerated and described 40 species, with—once again—multiple species adapted to specific niches and foods at varying salinities in differing physical conditions of river flow and bottom sediment. In October, the amount of food available to opportunistic specialists like amphipods in a river system such as the York is huge. Much of it is the biological detritus of summer’s bounty: algae blooms, scraps of marsh grasses that rains have washed out of the marshes, fallen leaves from riverside trees, and anything else along the river that has lived and died. Amphipods will eat some of that detritus now, but as temperatures fall, their metabolisms and activity levels will decrease. The freezing and thawing of winter will continue to

erode the material, turning it in to a mostly dormant reservoir of food for the revival of spring’s new crop of amphipods. Moving upstream brings more players searching out amphipods. Anyone who has ever caught a white perch on a hook baited with grass shrimp can guess what a young perch thinks about amphipods. Same for yellow (ring) perch, various species of bluegill, crappie, largemouth bass, white/channel/blue catfish, carp, and hickory shad. Even the Pamunkey’s Atlantic sturgeon of various ages (the adults are in the river, spawning this month) eat amphipods as they vacuum the river bottom with their suction-tube mouths. Count in the resident and migratory waterfowl for which the Pamunkey’s marshes are famous as well, including mallards, black ducks, and mergansers.

Now extend this story to all of the Chesapeake’s tidal rivers, creeks, and streams. Think several dozen more amphipod species, at least, and individual numbers that that have at least a dozen zeroes in them. That’s literally tons of tiny critters processing even more tons of detritus. The funny thing is that we humans have never recognized any of these tiny Bay building blocks with common names, except maybe the generic term scud. Good thing that neglect doesn’t bother them. They just keep at their business as they have for thousands of years, helping sunlight move up the Chesapeake’s food web, to us and beyond. h CBM Editor at Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author, and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.

Discover amazing adventure and unspoiled beauty this fall in Calvert County. Enjoy a waterside meal. Visit a world-class museum. Feel the sand between your toes. Sample hand-crafted brews and award-winning wines. www.choosecalvert.com/OctCBOpen

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October 2020

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ven in the best of times, boating can provide a much-needed escape from everyday life. So it's no surprise that this year, when everything is, well, not the best of times, more and more people are taking to the Bay to get away from it all. Slipping the docklines and taking off for an afternoon or longer sounds pretty appealing, we admit, and if it happens to be the perfect socialdistancing activity, that works too. Maybe a vacation closer to home (especially if you can bring some of home with you) will remind you of all the things you love right here on the Bay.

INSIDE Boats Not to Miss ..................... 44 The Bay & Beyond .................... 56 New Tech Spotlights ......59, 63,69 Virtual Boat Shows .................. 65 October 2020

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JOSH DAVIDSON

The U.S. Sailboat show in Annapolis, pictured here in happier times.

BOAT BOOM

2020 W

hen it’s boat show season, the selection of new boats to check out is vast, and every shiny, white hull on the labyrinth of docks starts to look pretty good. Chesapeake Bay Magazine is always happy to round up the best of the year’s debuts. This year, there’s no labyrinth of docks to get lost in, sadly, but that’s why we’re here to bring you the best of the new. Our top picks for new boats are multi-function vessels that pack a punch.

BOATS NOT TO MISS

BOSTON WHALER 240 VANTAGE Boston Whaler calls their new 240 Vantage a Swiss Army knife for boating. A true “do-it-all” platform, the 240 is designed to deliver remarkable versatility and comfort. With an array of features for fishing, cruising, beaching, watersports and entertaining, this dual-console model is perfect for active families eager to enjoy everything possible on the water. Powered by a V8 Mercury Verado engine, this design features a flared hull and sharper bow profile to provide a stable, safe and seaworthy ride. Dealers on the Bay include Chesapeake Whalertowne, Taylor Marine Center, and Lynnhaven Marine.

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EDGEWATER 340CC Edgewater’s new center-console premiered late last year. This boat is chock-full of standard features and options that are top-notch for the family and angler alike. It can rip through the blue with its optional engine setup of twin Yamaha XTO 425hp. The optional Seakeeper can keep her even steadier in choppy conditions. The console head has plenty of storage and an impressive amount of room. There is a leaning post with an aquarium livewell and tackle drawers, but also a classy Corian countertop and cutting board. And the family will appreciate its plush forward sun pad lounge seat and dinners around the easy-to-use, stowaway bow table. It’s sold on the Chesapeake by Annapolis Yacht Sales.

BENETEAU OCEANIS 30.1 This robust little smart cruiser looks unashamedly like a small yacht. With its slender bow, optimized weight, and square-top mainsail, it performs well in all points of sail. For beginners or for short-handed sailing, the self-tacking jib and the single winch are easy to handle. For performance, the Oceanis 30.1 has a large overlapping genoa, a furling code zero and an asymmetric spinnaker. Aft, a step affords access to the water and can be supplemented by a small lifting platform. The cabin has 6.5 feet of headroom and two sizable double cabins each with berths running lengthwise and an open entryway making them feel particularly spacious. The two benches in the salon provide two extra berths. With unbeatable living space for its size and a focus on simplicity of use, the smallest model of the Beneteau cruising range is stylish and fast, with a highly competitive ready-to-sail price. The Chesapeake dealer is Annapolis Yacht Sales.

October 2020

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RANGER TUGS R-25 Ranger Tugs’ R-25 is a feature-packed cruiser designed for comfort, ease of use, quality and fun, says the manufacturer. For over 60 years Ranger Tugs has been building boats, so the R-25 combines a wealth of experience gained over many years with modern design and technology, to provide the best in handling, seakeeping, and performance. Powered by a single Yamaha 250hp Outboard driving a modern hull, the boat is fast and efficient whether planing or running at displacement speeds. The R-25 is sold ready-to-cruise, meaning it is packed with standard features like a bow thruster, inverter, battery charger, solar panel, shore power with 30-amp chord, raw water washdown system, electric marine head with holding tank, deck outlet and macerator, anchor, chain and rode, a windlass with bow and helm controls, a cockpit Bimini top and more. It’s quite a platform for a 25-footer. The Bay dealer for both Ranger Tugs and Cutwater is Pocket Yachts.

TIARA SPORT 43LE The first in its series, the 43LE emphasizes the brand tenets Tiara Sport has become famous for: sport styling combined with luxurious amenities, dedicated social zones, and thrilling performance. A large chaise lounge on the bow provides relaxation, while the signature rotating lounge seats in the aft cockpit (complete with multiple locking positions and built-in footrests) allow guests the flexibility to face forward, astern, or sideways toward the fold-down terrace. Premium entertainment features are found throughout and below deck along with two sleeping accommodations: a queen island berth and a mid-cabin double berth. A complete head with separate shower provides all of the appropriate overnighting or day-yachting amenities. With two unique propulsion options (Mercury or Yamaha) and an integrated electronics package with Garmin Marine Navigation systems, the Tiara Sport 43LE is built for performance, comfort, and ease of use. The Chesapeake Bay dealer is North Point Yacht Sales.

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EXCESS 11 CATAMARAN This is the smallest large-scale production cruising catamaran on the market, but don’t let its size fool you. The Excess 11 offers the comfort and space of a much larger boat, as well as thrilling performance and amenities that make it capable of long passages and life onboard. The work of its naval architects and designers has been focused on one objective: to create a real cruising catamaran in a smaller package with volume worthy of a larger boat, whether in the saloon or in the cabins. For example, the owner’s berth has a large 6.5 x 6.5-foot bed and each bathroom has a separate shower. On deck, it offers the comfort and friendliness of a large open cockpit and twin helm stations, allowing for real steering sensations as well as direct contact with the rest of the crew. This is the synthesis of the Excess spirit: a beautiful, simple, light and comfortable boat, capable of taking you to the most remote spots on earth. The Chesapeake Bay dealer is Crusader Yacht Sales.

GRADY-WHITE CANYON 336 An exceptional 33-foot center console, Grady-White’s Canyon 336 provides the best of everything you’d expect, and more, in a boat of its size. The 336 starts with superior quality, reliability, safety, performance and long-lasting value Grady-White is known for. Its sleek styling elements are elegant, while abundant bells and whistles make it a well-outfitted fishing machine. Already a strong seller in this market, the new changes are bringing high demand. The redesigned console and T-top, with fully integrated windshield, widens walkways and expands the cockpit and bow spaces. An all-new helm design includes room for dual 17” flush mount electronic panels strategically located closer to the captain. From bow thruster and Yamaha “Helm Master EX” Digital Electric Steering to a water heater, air conditioner and diesel generator, the Canyon 336 is a highperformance boat that doesn’t compromise Grady-White quality and comfort. All built on Grady’s exclusive “SeaV 2” hull, it delivers a dry, soft ride. (gradywhite.com)

October 2020

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SPORTSMAN OPEN 282 CENTER CONSOLE Is this boat designed for the serious angler or the family? We think both. The Open 282 by Sportsman is a great all-around boat that provides creature comforts for entertaining with family and friends and a sturdy, dry, and fast ride so you can compete offshore with the big guys. Enjoy the electronically actuated bow table that easily adjusts into three positions, from tabletop to sun pad to flush with the floor. The side-entry door makes dockside loading (of kids or fish) a breeze, and quickly becomes a feature you cannot live without. This boat comes loaded with many standard features, like the oversized hard top with lights, speakers, and more. Yacht Certified and therefore exempt from required vessel capacity limits, the Open 282 provides a safe and comfortable ride for the entire family. A pair of Yamaha 300hp outboards puts you at your destination quickly, and if you’re into bells and whistles, make sure you check out the Tournament Edition. You’ll find a video review of it at ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com. The Chesapeake Bay dealer is Riverside Marine.

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Get an inside look at some of the Bay’s most sought after boats and boating products with Chesapeake Bay Magazine Publisher John Stefancik and Annapolis School of Seamanship Owner John Martino.

Get to know the latest version of this free app for boaters argonav.io

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Use your phone’s camera to scan the QR codes to watch our video reviews or watch from your computer or smart TV at chesapeakebaymagazine.com/video-reviews

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MD 2

BY CAPTAIN JODY ARGO SCHROATH

hat’s a boater to do? Now that you and your family are having to spend more time at home, why not take this opportunity to take “home” with you. Explore some new places on the Chesapeake Bay and even beyond—hey, the winter is warmer down south, you know. With that in mind, we’ve picked a few of our favorite places for you to discover, or rediscover. So come on, let’s go!

CHESAPEAKE CITY, MD We’ll start at the top, with this charming city at the gateway to the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. You’ll want to come here for the old-world charm (it’s on the National Register of Historic Places) of its homes and shops. Dock the boat at one of its marinas or take an excursion along the canal. Antiques shops, delightful restaurants and ice cream too. What’s not to love? For a bonus, try out nearby Havre de Grace.

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ROCK HALL, MD If you have not yet made the trip to the Eastern Shore to explore Rock Hall, now’s the time! There’s a reason its natural harbor and back door, Swan Creek, are chock-a-block with great marinas. This tiny town is both a picture-perfect example of a classic waterman’s town and the perfect opportunity to indulge in local seafood while enjoying some of the best sunsets ever. Want more? Head up the gorgeous Chester River to Chestertown.

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Talbot County is home to some of the most beautiful and historic small towns in America. Explore our culinary treasures, one-of-a-kind boutiques and elegant inns. Or bike, kayak and sail the Chesapeake Bay. Plan your escape today! 410-770-8000 | TourTalbot.org

Easton • Oxford • St. Michaels • Tilghman Island • Trappe

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DE 3

HERRING BAY, MD Come to Herring Bay for the fishing, for the restaurants, for the famous resort marina, Herrington Harbour. Or drive down and launch your boat for day trips while staying in its hotel or resort facilities. Bring your paddle craft to explore the nearby creeks. Ever been to a great Bay dock bar? Here’s your chance. Bonus side trip: If your draft will allow, try nearby Chesapeake Beach.

ST. MICHAELS, MD No discussion of Bay cruising would be complete without a nod to the star of Chesapeake boating destinations, St. Michaels. This Eastern Shore village has it all: a first-class maritime museum, excellent marinas, its own brewery and distillery, an elegant full-service resort, and enough restaurants to keep you full to bursting for weeks. Bonus: Explore the marvelous Wye River just next door.

HAMPTON/YORKTOWN, VA Wait a minute, we hear you say, that’s two destinations. Yes, you are right, of course, but we say why not take advantage of both while you are at it? In Yorktown, you’ll find a month’s worth of history lessons for the kids, while you all enjoy a lovely beach, restaurants and shops. In Hampton, the history lesson will continue in the pleasantest way in Old Town and at the Virginia Air & Space Museum. Ride a historic carousel and dine on 21st century cuisine and local seafood. Bluewater Yachting Center, a luxury marina within a short dinghy ride of downtown Hampton, is a great base to explore from.

NORFOLK/PORTSMOUTH, VA Welcome to the twin cities of the Chesapeake! Each has its own special personality and charm. You won’t want to miss either. And you don’t have to, because they are connected by water taxis that run regularly. Portsmouth has its magical Old Town, with historic homes and churches and eclectic restaurants. Across the Elizabeth River, Norfolk has Granby Avenue, lined with shops and restaurants, a very big battleship to call its own, and Nauticus, a maritime museum like no other. Oh, there’s plenty more!

ou’ve just cast the lines and your friends turn and ask,“Where to, Captain?” It’s another great day on the water and everyone is relying on you to show them a good time. The pressure is on. Where should you take them? How will you get there and how far is it? What hazards lay waiting? There are so many fantastic destinations on the Bay it could take a lifetime to see them all. Make the most of it with Argo, a free mobile app developed right here on the Chesapeake by a family of boaters. Headed to Solomons Island? Tap a pin on the map and Argo will autoroute you based on your vessel’s draft and other requirements. Looking for suggestions on where to go? Get ratings and reviews on the Bay’s best destinations. It’s like having a first mate and the entire boating community in your pocket. And it’s free at argonav.io

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NORTH CAROLINA

SOUTH CAROLINA 4

he first two of our Beyond the Bay destinations can be done separately or as one easy loop. Head south out of the Bay using either the Albemarle & Chesapeake or the Dismal Swamp routes and return using the other. The distance is nearly the same but the experience is very different. While planning your trip, check out the Albemarle Loop at albemarleloop.com.

MANTEO, N.C Here’s a destination you’ll love! It has the mystery of the Lost Colony of Roanoke, great fishing, plus great marinas and shopping. Turn east on Albemarle Sound and head for the eastern side of Roanoke Island. Inside Shallowbag Bay, you’ll find marinas, free docks and easy access to the town of Manteo. Your feet will get you to everything else. Don’t want to come by boat? Then come and try out one of Manteo’s B&Bs or hotels. Bonus side trip: The Outer Banks’ town of Ocracoke is an easy trawler day away.

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EDENTON, N.C. If you turn west on Albemarle Sound after entering from the Chesapeake, you will come to the positively elegant town of Edenton. Its marina lies inside a breakwater with a remarkably beautiful view of the sound and the city. The main street features busy shops and restaurants, as well as walled gardens, dazzling in their blooms, and 17th and 18th century mansions, churches and commercial buildings. Here, beauty is all around you.

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BELHAVEN, N.C. If you’re heading down the Intracoastal Waterway, you’ll find Belhaven just after Albemarle Sound and the long and lonely Alligator-Pungo Canal. This makes Belhaven a favorite cruisers’ stop, for its marinas, access to groceries and charming Victorian homes. It also boasts a great restaurant, an ice cream shop and a downhome breakfast café. Add fuel and a pump-out and you’re ready to go!

GEORGETOWN, S.C. Here is another of our all-time favorite destinations. Georgetown is a perfect cruising stop. Located along the ICW at the south end of the wonderful Waccamaw River, Georgetown for centuries has offered a protected port for seafarers, with access to the ocean by way of a good inlet, or the continuation of the ICW route toward Charleston. Restaurants? Yes! Lovely homes on streets shaded by ancient oaks? Yes! Enough said.

CHARLESTON, S.C. How do we extoll the virtues of this most popular of ICW destinations in 50 words? We don’t need to because we know you already have Charleston on your wish list. By boat, try the Charleston City Dock’s quarter-mile-long Megadock. It’s a rite of passage. Then cut loose and revel in the history, restaurants and charm of this old city.

BEAUFORT, S.C. You might think that by this time we must have run out of superlatives. Heck no! We are going to pull out a few more to describe this classic example of Southern charm. Bigger than Georgetown and smaller than Charleston, Beaufort is just about perfect. Stay at one of its three excellent marinas: one in town, one across the bridge on Ladys Island, the third downriver at Port Royal. Paddle, explore, relax and enjoy.

We hope you’ve enjoyed coming with us on this quick trip around the Bay and beyond. There’s a lot to explore all around us, and a boat is the near-perfect way to do it. It’s just a question of picking out a destination and setting off. If you have questions, be sure to let us know. Chesapeake Bay Magazine will always be your guide to great boating adventures.

oat stabilization is no longer just for the big guys. This year, Southern Maryland-based Seakeeper launched the first gyro stabilizer designed for boats 23-30 feet long. The Seakeeper 1, which can reduce roll by 95 percent, debuted at the 2020 Miami International Boat Show in February, winning an Innovation Award. It can be installed under the helm seat of most center consoles, above deck, and features a viewing window and a control keypad, which means it can be controlled from the helm or directly from the unit. With its fastest spool-up time yet, the new model can start stabilizing within 15 minutes. From now through December, Seakeeper is touring the East Coast on a “road trip” from Massachusetts to Florida (including the panhandle) to show the Seakeeper 1 on a trailer-sized boat. Register to see the Seakeeper in action at seakeeper.com/ road-trip

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Showing Boats Without

THE SHOW

or the first October since 1970, there will be no boat shows at Annapolis City Dock. That first show was revolutionary. Up until then, boat shows were only held in the middle of winter inside huge exhibit halls in the middle of big cities. 1970 was the first time boats were put on display in the fall, in a small town, and most significantly, in their natural habitat: the water. The formula was so successful, in-water boat shows quickly spawned all around the globe. Even so, there’s always been something magical about the Annapolis boat shows. The historic charm of this little tidewater town, the aura of the Chesapeake Bay in autumn, the camaraderie of like-minded boaters gathering from all around the world in one spot for two weekends. They shows have grown to become absolute institutions. While the current pandemic has curtailed this year’s physical manifestation, a number of long-standing exhibitors have come up with creative ways for boaters to have a limited boat show experience with the aim of presenting their new boats, products and services to the boating public in a way that will keep everyone safe. Now, before you continue with this article about boat show alternatives, it’s important to get into the proper mood, so here’s the recipe for a traditional Pusser’s Painkiller to sip on while you read: Find your enameled tin Pusser’s mug from last year’s show. Mix two ounces of Pusser's Rum with four ounces of chilled pineapple juice, add one ounce of orange juice and an ounce of cream of coconut. Shake with ice and garnish with a sprinkle of freshly grated nutmeg. The frilly umbrella is optional. Put your feet up and resume reading.

United States Sailboat Show photo scanned from the October 1973 CBM issue.

BY JEFF HOLLAND October 2020

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You can experience one of the most innovative efforts on the Bluewater Yachts website, bluewateryachtsales.com. Scroll down on the home page to see their Virtual Showroom. You can take self-guided 3-D virtual tours of boats like the 38 Viking Billfish. With a click, an interactive photograph of the boat fills your screen.

Using your mouse, you can guide the lens through the cockpit, up the ladder to the flying bridge, zoom in on the instrumentation on the control console, take a 360-degree view of the vista from up there, then swing back down below to inspect the luxurious accommodations. It even takes you down into the spacious and immaculate engine

A virtual tour of the 38 Viking Billfish via Bluewater Yachts.

room. And you don’t have to take off your deck shoes. Or you can tag along with one of the sales staff as they take you on a pre-recorded video tour of some of the other boats in the inventory from the Regulator 31 center console to the newly launched Princess F70 luxury yacht. If you find a boat you like, you can schedule a live one-on-one virtual tour with one of their licensed brokers. Bluewater deals in new and previously owned fishing boats and yachts, from Albemarles to Vikings, with sales and service centers at the Baltimore Marine Center, Mears Point Marina in Grasonville, Md., Ocean City Fishing Center, Long Bay Pointe Marina in Virginia Beach and the headquarters at the Bluewater Yachting Center in Hampton, Va. The dealer also just announced it’s opening a new sales and service center at South Annapolis Yacht

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Center, where they will offer a VIP Fall Preview October 23–24. Boat shoppers can check out a 46-foot Viking Billfish, 33-foot Valhala, and the 23, 31, 34 and 41 Regulators. Pre-registration is encouraged.

ther dealers are holding relatively low-key events at their sites by appointment only. Chesapeake Whalertowne, the Boston Whaler dealer in Annapolis, will host an event they’re calling “Stock the Dock” from Oct. 2–12. While the Boston Whaler website, bostonwhaler.com, has its own virtual tours of new boat models using 360-degree self-guided video technology, this event at Whalertowne’s new headquarters at the head of Ego Alley at Annapolis City Dock is meant to get you out on the water for an actual test drive. The new 240 Vantage will make its debut at this event. The dual console model with bow seating makes it a versatile choice for a family boat, whether you enjoy fishing, cruising, beaching or watersports. Powered by a single 350hp Mercury outboard, the 240 Vantage can get up on plane in just over 6 seconds, and go from idle to 30 mph in just over 8 seconds. Wait until you’re out of Annapolis Harbor before you try that.

Chesapeake Whalertowne

The 280 Vantage, which came out in May, will also be available for test drives, along with other new models, including the new 325 Conquest, 270 Dauntless, 380 Realm and 380 Outrage. “This event gives the boat buyer access to the boats in a controlled environment,” says Whalertowne’s Rick Boulay, Jr. “It’s an opportunity to get out on the boats and see how they perform.” Whaler has sharpened the deadrise of several of its new models for a smoother ride, he says, which is particularly suited to the short, choppy waves of the Bay. “The Chesapeake is some of the most challenging water around, and these boats are built to perform in it.” Six Annapolis-area dealers have teamed up on an event they call “Walk the Docks” from late September through the first two weeks of October. North Point Yacht Sales, Crusader Yacht Sales, Annapolis Yacht Sales, Sail Annapolis, Atlantic Cruising Yachts, and S&J Yachts have come together for a one-stop shop featuring more than a dozen brands. It’s not a traditional open house, explains Annapolis Yacht Sales marketing coordinator Nicole Esterson. “Boats will be shown by appointment only so we can be sure

very boater should have peace of mind they’ll have access to clean, reliable drinking water while on board. In the past, the high cost, complexity and maintenance needs for desalination systems have been daunting. Rainman Watermakers are solid and robust portable desalination systems – designed for the rigors of the maritime environment and built with ingenuity. Rainman Watermakers are capable of producing up to 37 gallons per hour, and can be integrated at will. Their most popular system needs nothing more than a small portable generator to operate, and they even offer a gasoline powered unit. This simple, low-maintenance watermaker may be portable but it’s built to operate as a fully functional primary system that provides an uninterrupted water supply. To find the best Rainman system for your boat, go to seataskgroup.com

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to maintain all the proper safety protocols. It will be a very controlled environment,” she says. The highlight of the event at their location on Back Creek in Annapolis will be the debut of the new Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54, an elegant luxury performance cruiser with a distinctive flush deck. “We thought this boat would have been the show-stopper at the boat show,” Nicole says, “so we’re pleased to be able to have that on display at our docks.” Highlights on the powerboat side include the new Century 29 center console and the 29 cuddy-cabin model. “The center console just got here,” Nicole says. “We have a lot of excitement around that already.” “We want our customers to understand this is their chance to get the same deals and discounts they’d expect at the boat show,” Nicole tells

us. “The best things about the boat shows are the camaraderie and seeing what’s new, and while we’ll miss that, we’ll still be able to give a really good discount to people who wait until the boat show to buy a boat.” Riverside Marine will host a “Fall Back to Summer” sales event through the end of October, with 20 boats available for test drives at its location on Back River north of Baltimore. Riverside offers affordable family boats, including new and previously owned runabouts, cuddys, deck boats, pontoons, cruisers and fishing boats by Bayliner, Crownline and Sportsman. Many of these models are available for demo drives at this event or by appointment. On your way there, stop by the Maryland Yacht Club on the Patapsco River at the mouth of Rock Creek in Pasadena, Md. Their 120-slip marina can accommodate powerboats and sailboats up to 75 feet long in

sheltered deep-water slips. The grounds cover eight acres and feature a large pavilion, bath houses, laundry facilities and a members-only pool. Their family-friendly club is always busy with social events and they have a sailing program for kids. If you’re looking for a transient slip, you can use the Snag-a-Slip app, which lets you Explore popular new marina destinations and book slips easily from your desktop or mobile device. Snag-A-Slip's online booking system and customer service team make planning your boat trip hassle free. They never charge booking fees and offer a price match guarantee. The Port Annapolis website features a virtual tour of this fullservice marina on Back Creek. The 75- and 50-ton Travelifts can haul everything from small day sailors to catamarans up to 26 feet wide. Their ABYC-certified technicians can service anything from engines to electronics.

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Shoreside amenities include a pool and a pavilion for weddings and family events. They’re also the regional dealer for Nauticstar boats, with offshore, center-console and deck boat models for fishing and cruising. If you miss the seminars at the boat shows, you can sign up for a class with the Annapolis School of Seamanship. Dedicated to educating and empowering mariners with the knowledge and skills necessary to make informed, safe decisions to operate and maintain a vessel, their courses will enhance your confidence level, strengthen your skills, and make you a safer, more informed boater. They also offer on-board training on your boat or theirs. Most classes are team-taught by experienced licensed captains and industry trade experts. Their classroom training courses are

designed to enhance the knowledge and skills of both recreational boaters and professional mariners. They also offer courses for professional mariners in compliance with the USCG licensing requirements specifically designed for mariners to earn their 100-ton master's license, OUPV "6-Pack" license or endorsements. It turns out that boating has experienced an astonishing boom this season despite the pandemic, according to Don Parkhurst, a marine lending professional with Truist Bank. Truist is the result of a merger of Sun Trust and BB&T last December. “When the pandemic started, we thought we’d be sitting at home twiddling our thumbs,” Parkhurst says. “Instead, it took a little while, but somewhere around mid-May, people got the idea that they weren’t going to be flying their families to Europe or Disneyworld for vacation, so they figured they could go into boating or

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BALTIMORE'S PRIVAT Thomas Kemp's ships took the fight to the British—by Tim Grove 78

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October 2020

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Fast Baltimore Clippers dot the Baltimore Harbor in this 1869 illustration by E. Sachse, & Co.

October 2020

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uring the War of 1812, Baltimore was America’s third largest city, and a center of the country’s shipbuilding industry. One of the leading shipyard owners and builders was Thomas Kemp. His yard at the corner of Washington and Aliceanna Streets in the Fells Point neighborhood produced fast sailing schooners, known for their ability to harass and capture British merchant ships, and to outrun warships. These privateers operated under a government document called a letter-of-marque, giving permission from the American government to disrupt British shipping and enjoy the profits. Without this commission, the sailors would be considered pirates (for more on the real Chesapeake pirates, see page 18). Their crew’s income came entirely from selling off the captured ships and their cargo. It was a risky, but lucrative, business, and big money awaited the owners of the fastest privateers.

The British ship Hibernia attempts to run down the Thomas Kemp-built Comet in 1814, in this Thomas Whitcombe painting that hangs at the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery.

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October 2020

Britain’s navy may have ruled the waves, but it could not begin to protect all of its merchant ships and other trade vessels on the seas around the world. Its blockade of America’s East Coast during the War of 1812 couldn’t stop American shipping either. In the dark of night, Baltimore’s privateers could make a run through the blockade. Baltimore had a well-earned reputation as a center—if not the center—of the American privateering fleet. Approximately 126 privateers operated out of the city during the war, capturing over five hundred British ships and costing the English economy a fortune. Each week, Baltimore citizens could pick up the Niles’ Weekly Register and read a list of privateers and their “American prizes,” British ships that privateer crews had captured. The privateers Thomas Kemp built were usually on the list. Kemp gained a national reputation because his yard built the four most celebrated privateers in the

country: the Rossie, the Rolla, the Comet and the Chasseur (dubbed the “Pride of Baltimore”). Between the four ships they seized prizes worth millions of dollars. Privateers usually earned pure profit after one or two voyages. Their owners could make a lot of money from the sale of prizes (the captured ships and goods). Half the profits went to the owners, the other half to the officers and crew. A large crew was necessary, to sail captured enemy ships to port. Though generally equipped with some guns, these vessels were built to run, not fight. A privateer would stalk British ships on trade routes or lie in wait near hostile or neutral ports. Once an enemy ship was spotted, the chase began. When the ship was captured, the American captain would commandeer it and either sail it to a neutral port or to the United States, or confiscate the goods and sink it. The sailors on the captured ship were imprisoned and either exchanged or ransomed for money. To add to the challenge, not all captured ships were successfully sent to port. Many of these prizes were recaptured by the British blockaders as they tried to enter U.S. ports. What made the Baltimore privateers so successful? Kemp and other Baltimore shipbuilders were some of the most creative ship designers in America. They had figured out a unique design that allowed ships to

ABOVE: (LEFT) Privateer captain Thomas Boyle. (RIGHT) Thomas Kemp placed an ad for the “Privateer Schooner Chasseur” in the American and Commercial Daily Advertiser, January 13, 1814.

move fast and maintain agility. According to Captain Jan Miles of the replica schooner Pride of Baltimore II, “there was a boldness in the construction of Baltimore’s ships.” No two ships were exactly alike. With each new ship, designers and builders attempted to find the right combination of design elements that made the ships faster and faster. Kemp had an office in his house near the shipyard where he labored over his plans. His design increased speed by adding sails in topmasts, to catch the wind higher above the deck. Despite their differences, the ships all featured similar elements. Shape contributed to effectiveness. The V-shaped hull could easily cut through water. The schooners had what was called a sharp hull below the water that allowed them to sail closer to the wind (toward the direction from which the wind comes). The masts were raked, or angled back, to further increase speed. To overcome water resistance, the ships had a large sail area with many topsails. Schooners made very efficient use of space for sails to capture as much wind as possible. Aside from the sleek design, a key element to a privateer’s success was a skillful and daring captain. One of the most famous was Thomas Boyle. A native of Marblehead, Massachusetts, a town surrounded by water, Boyle went to sea at age ten, and by 16 was sailing master of a ship, responsible for its October 2020

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NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, GREENWICH

navigation. At 19, he moved to Baltimore and with the success of the privateers under his control, he soon became famous. He commanded two ships built in the Kemp shipyard, the Comet and the Chasseur. American privateer crews sometimes ventured across the Atlantic Ocean, capturing ships in the enemy’s waters. According to the book The Old Merchant Marine, published in 1919, an English newspaper declared outrage that “a horde of American cruisers should be allowed, unresisted and unmolested, to take, burn, or sink our own vessels in our own inlets and almost in sight of our own harbors.” In August 1814, Thomas Boyle and the brig Chasseur boldly sailed into the English Channel. To the shock of the British public, he sent a captured British sailor to attach a written pronouncement to the door of Lloyd’s Coffee House in London, then center of the British insurance industry, a famous haunt of sailors. It proclaimed that all of Britain was under a total blockade, an action he could in no way enforce. But to the wonder of all, Boyle captured fourteen British merchant ships during this three-month voyage, returning to Baltimore even more famous than when he left. On his return, the guns of Fort McHenry saluted him and crowds on Federal Hill cheered him.

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October 2020

uilding a ship was like putting a puzzle together and required men with many types of skills. Kemp’s shipyard employed two dozen men, mostly carpenters and caulkers, who sealed the cracks between boards and ensured the ship’s seaworthiness. He also hired blacksmiths, riggers (who set all the ropes, wires, and chains controlling the sails and masts) and expert shipwrights. He needed to buy all kinds of supplies too, including timber, spars (wooden poles), beams, iron work, copper spikes and rivets, rosin, and pitch. Surrounding the shipyards in Fells Point were many businesses, called chandleries, that sold supplies needed for the ships: block and tackle, pump, rope, and sails. In several nearby long, narrow buildings called ropewalks, men twisted hemp into the miles of rope needed to rig Baltimore’s ships. The most famous ship built at Fells Point was Kemp’s masterpiece, the Chasseur (meaning "hunter" in French). It measured 116 feet long with a 26 foot-beam (35.35 x 7.92 meters) and launched in December 1812. No contemporary picture of her exists, but Hezekiah Niles, editor of the Niles’ Weekly Register, wrote at the time “she was indeed a fine specimen of naval architecture, and perhaps the most beautiful vessel that ever floated on the

Chasseur (left) jockeys for control of the H.M.S. St. Lawrence.

ocean. She sat as light and buoyant on the water as a graceful swan, and it required but very little imagination to feel that she was about to leave her watery element, and fly into the clear, blue sky.” The Chasseur’s original owner hired Kemp to build a trading vessel, not a privateer. After several unsuccessful years in trading, its owner put the ship up for auction. Kemp was one of 17 men who came together to purchase the Chasseur with plans to transform it from a fast trade vessel into an even faster privateer. They added cannons, hired a crew, and appointed a captain. The Chasseur sailed to the Caribbean, then to Europe. homas Kemp had grown up surrounded by ships. His ancestors, from Yorkshire in England, settled on the Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay in 1678. This was an area of never- ending sea grasses and mud flats, where the constant rising and falling of the tides had carved a jagged edge of inlets and coves. The Kemp home sat near the town of St. Michaels, Maryland, which was fast developing into a shipbuilding center. Young Thomas would have heard pounding hammers and creaking beams as shipwrights carved and molded giant pieces of timber into large ships. Perhaps the sights and sounds got into his blood and spurred him on his career path. When he grew older, Thomas served as an apprentice at one of these shipyards. In 1803, he decided to seek his fortune away from the Eastern Shore. He moved to Baltimore to practice his newly acquired trade. He found work in the shipyard of Joseph Sterett that first year. The Sterett shipyard had built the U.S. Frigate Constellation, the second warship in the American Navy. Kemp married Sophia Horstman and purchased a house on the corner of Market and Lancaster streets from his father-in-law. During his first two years in Baltimore he mostly repaired vessels. But he was eager to start designing and building his own ships. In 1804, he and his brother Joseph built the Thomas and Joseph schooner, considered the first Thomas Kemp-designed schooner. By 1805, at age 26, Kemp had saved enough money to establish his own shipyard. He purchased land at Washington and Aliceanna

streets and in 1807 he began designing and building ships, almost exclusively Baltimore schooners. Even the United States Navy sought his expertise. His yard built two ships for the Navy, the U.S.S. Erie and the U.S.S. Ontario. Kemp also crafted the masts and spars for the nearly-complete frigate Java. Business was soon thriving. Kemp’s weekly payroll was $1,000 (at a time when skilled workmen earned about $3 per day). An astute businessman, Kemp often bought shares of ownership in the privateers his yard built. Many shipbuilders did this as an investment and to help ensure future repair contracts. Business was so good that in May 1814, he purchased a 170-acre estate in Baltimore called Lovely Green. He guessed that if the British attacked and captured Baltimore, they would most assuredly set fire to the shipyards and possibly confiscate his home. Everything Kemp had worked so hard for could go up in flames. Yet Kemp’s success was a major reason why the British hated Baltimore. After a three-day attack, the British failed to capture Baltimore, thanks to the defenders at Fort McHenry and Hampstead Hill (present-day Patterson Park). Today the spirit of Kemp and the privateers lives on in the Pride of Baltimore II, a reproduction tall ship docked in the city for much of the year. Built in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor in 1988 after the original Pride reproduction was tragically lost at sea, Pride II was officially commissioned in Fells Point, just yards away from Kemp’s historic shipyard where the Chasseur was built. While not an exact copy of the Chasseur, they share various features. Pride has sailed to over 200 ports around the world, an ambassador of Baltimore’s rich maritime heritage. It is an educational showcase, highlighting the days when Baltimore ships held a national reputation for their speed and agility—and, as the troublemakers of the waves. Adapted from Star-Spangled: The Story of a Flag, a Battle, and the American Anthem, Abrams Books for Young Readers, 2020. h Author Tim Grove lives in Falls Church, Virginia, and strives to tell the stories of America’s forgotten voices. His new book for young adults, Star-Spangled: The Story of a Flag, a Battle, and the American Anthem, is now available (timgrove.net). October 2020

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- Horses welcomed! 8.44 acres, 6-stall barn, Multiple Pasture Areas -EXTERIOR: Waterfront Pool encircled with Brick Patio -- 3-Bay Garage Attached breezeway over a Slate Protected 7’MLW at Pierwith justaoff the Chesapeake Bay Patio - Horses welcomed! 8.44 acres, 6-stall barn, Multiple Pasture Areas INTERIOR: - Waterfront Pool encircled with Brick Patio -- Solid stately looking story 4567over SF Residence 3-Bay brick, Garage Attached withtwo a breezeway a Slate Patio - Built in 2007 with Premier Custom Home Builder -INTERIOR: 21’ Ceiling & Gas Fireplace in Living Room with floor to ceiling Windows -- Waterfront Kitchen open to 4567 Den with Fireplace Solid brick, High-End stately looking two story SF Residence -- 1st Waterfront Owner’s SuiteHome with Fireplace BuiltFloor in 2007 with Premier Custom Builder & Luxurious Bath -- Upstairs with TwoFireplace Guest Rooms & Two Bonus Rooms 21’ Ceiling & Gas in Living Room with floor to ceiling Windows -- Move In-Ready - High Kitchen Speed Internet Great Location, Hour+ to Richmond Waterfront High-End open to- Den with Fireplace - 1st Floor Waterfront Owner’s Suite with Fireplace & Luxurious Bath - Upstairs with Two Guest Rooms & Two Bonus Rooms - Move In-Ready - High Speed Internet - Great Location, Hour+ to Richmond

Antipoison Creek Estate White Stone - $1,249,000

Voted Best Real Estate Firm 7 Consecutive Years!

Visit our Website for Videos, detailed Voted Best Real Estate Firm 7 Consecutive Years! information & More! Serving All Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula Visit our Website for Videos, detailed H O R S L E Y R E A L E S TAT E . C O M information & More! Serving All Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula H O R S L E Y R E A L E S TAT E . C O M

Antipoison Creek Estate

White Stone - $1,249,000 Call/Text: David Dew 804.436.3106

Katie Horsley Dew 804.436.6256 David Dew 804.436.3106 DavidEDew@gmail.com • HorsleyRE@yahoo.com Call/Text: Katie Horsley Dew 804.436.6256 Call/Text: Call/Text:

DavidEDew@gmail.com • HorsleyRE@yahoo.com

Home is where the Bay is.

CHRIS CHRIS McNELIS, McNELIS, Broker Broker CHRIS McNELIS, Broker CHRIS McNELIS, Broker CHRIS McNELIS, Broker Mobile: Mobile: 410.610.4045 410.610.4045 CHRIS McNELIS, Broker Mobile: 410.610.4045 Mobile: 410.610.4045 CHRIS CHRIS McNELIS, McNELIS, Broker Broker Mobile: 410.610.4045

Solomons, MD MD Office: 410-394-0990 Solomons, Office: 410-394-0990 | Solomons, Office: 410-394-0990 Solomons, MD MD Office: 410-394-0990 Solomons, MD Office: 410-394-0990 | Solomons, Office: 410-394-0990 Solomons, Solomons, MD MD MD Office: Office: 410-394-0990 410-394-0990 |

chris@mcnelisgroup.com chris@mcnelisgroup.com Mobile: 410.610.4045 chris@mcnelisgroup.com chris@mcnelisgroup.com Mobile: Mobile: 410.610.4045 410.610.4045 chris@mcnelisgroup.com chris@mcnelisgroup.com chris@mcnelisgroup.com chris@mcnelisgroup.com MD MD Office: 410-657-8188 | Dunkirk, Dunkirk, Office: 410-657-8188 | | McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com

|| Dunkirk, Dunkirk, Office: 410-657-8188 MD MD Office: 410-657-8188 Dunkirk, MD Office: 410-657-8188 | || Dunkirk, Dunkirk, MD Office: 410-657-8188 Dunkirk, MD MD Office: Office: 410-657-8188 410-657-8188 |

WATERFRONT 6 Beds | 7 Baths | 8,992 sq.ft. sq.ft. WATERFRONT 6 Beds | 7 Baths | 8,992 WATERFRONT 66 Beds || 77 Baths || 8,992 WATERFRONT 66 Beds Beds || 77 Baths Baths || 8,992 8,992 sq.ft. sq.ft. sq.ft. WATERFRONT Beds Baths 8,992 sq.ft. WATERFRONT 6 Beds | 7 Baths | 8,992 sq.ft. WATERFRONT WATERFRONT 6 Beds 6 Beds | 7 Baths | 7 Baths | 8,992 | 8,992 sq.ft. sq.ft.

WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 5,215 sq.ft. sq.ft. WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 5,215 WATERFRONT 55 Beds || 3.5 || 5,215 WATERFRONT 55 Beds Beds || 3.5 3.5 Baths Baths || 5,215 5,215 sq.ft. sq.ft.sq.ft. WATERFRONT Beds 3.5 Baths Baths 5,215 sq.ft. WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 5,215 sq.ft. WATERFRONT WATERFRONT 5 Beds 5 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 3.5 Baths | 5,215| 5,215 sq.ft. sq.ft.

$2,190,000 $2,190,000 $2,190,000 50051$2,190,000 Airedele RoadRoad 50051 Airedele $2,190,000 Airedele 50051 5005150051 Airedele Airedele Road RoadRoad $2,190,000 Ridge, Maryland Ridge, Maryland 50051 Airedele Road $2,190,000 $2,190,000 Ridge, MarylandRoad Ridge, Ridge, Maryland Maryland 50051 Airedele

$1,395,000 $1,395,000 $1,395,000 $1,395,000 1100 Hellen CreekCreek DriveDrive 1100 Hellen $1,395,000 1100 Hellen Creek 1100 1100 Hellen Hellen Creek Creek Drive DriveDrive $1,395,000 Lusby, Maryland Lusby, Maryland 1100 Hellen Creek Drive $1,395,000 $1,395,000 Maryland Lusby, Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland 1100 Hellen Creek Drive

Maryland 50051Ridge, 50051 Airedele Airedele Road Road Ridge, Maryland Ridge,Ridge, Maryland Maryland WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 4 Baths | 5,663 sq.ft. sq.ft. WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 4 Baths | 5,663 WATERFRONT 55 Beds || 44 Baths || 5,663 WATERFRONT 55 Beds Beds || 44 Baths Baths || 5,663 5,663 sq.ft. sq.ft.sq.ft. WATERFRONT Beds Baths 5,663 sq.ft. WATERFRONT 5 Beds | 4 Baths | 5,663 sq.ft. WATERFRONT WATERFRONT 5 Beds 5 Beds | 4 Baths | 4 Baths | 5,663 | 5,663 sq.ft. sq.ft.

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|| McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com || McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com

$1,250,000 $1,250,000 $1,250,000 1275 $1,250,000 Hollidge RoadRoad 1275 Hollidge $1,250,000 1275 Hollidge 1275 1275 Hollidge Hollidge Road RoadRoad $1,250,000 Lusby, Maryland Lusby, Maryland 1275 Hollidge Road $1,250,000 $1,250,000 Maryland Lusby, Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland 1275 Hollidge Road

Lusby, Maryland 1100 Hellen 1100 Hellen Creek Creek Drive Drive Lusby, Maryland Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland WATERFRONT 4 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 2,460 sq.ft. sq.ft. WATERFRONT 4 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 2,460 WATERFRONT 44 Beds || 3.5 || 2,460 WATERFRONT 44 Beds Beds || 3.5 3.5 Baths Baths || 2,460 2,460 sq.ft. sq.ft.sq.ft. WATERFRONT Beds 3.5 Baths Baths 2,460 sq.ft. WATERFRONT 4 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 2,460 sq.ft. WATERFRONT WATERFRONT 4 Beds 4 Beds | 3.5 Baths | 3.5 Baths | 2,460 | 2,460 sq.ft. sq.ft.

$1,050,000 $1,050,000 $1,050,000 $1,050,000 45220 ClarksClarks Mill Road 45220 Mill Road $1,050,000 45220 Clarks Mill Road 45220 45220 Clarks Clarks Mill MillMaryland Road Road $1,050,000 Hollywood, Maryland Hollywood, 45220 Clarks Mill Road $1,050,000 $1,050,000 Hollywood, Maryland Hollywood, Hollywood, Maryland 45220Maryland Clarks Mill Road Hollywood, 4522045220 ClarksClarks MillMaryland Road Mill Road Hollywood, Maryland Hollywood, Hollywood, Maryland Maryland

3.41 3.41 ACRES 3 Beds | 1 Baths | 1,696 sq.ft. sq.ft. ACRES 3 Beds | 1 Baths | 1,696 3.41 33 Beds || 11 Baths || 1,696 3.41 ACRES 33 Beds Beds || 11 Baths Baths || 1,696 1,696 sq.ft. sq.ft.sq.ft. 3.41 ACRES ACRES Beds Baths 1,696 sq.ft. 3.41 ACRES 3 Beds | 1 Baths | 1,696 sq.ft. 3.41 ACRES 3.41 ACRES 3 Beds 3 Beds | 1 Baths | 1 Baths | 1,696| 1,696 sq.ft. sq.ft.

Lusby, Maryland 1275 Hollidge 1275 Hollidge Road Road Lusby, Maryland Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland WATERFRONT LOT LOT 2.57 Acres WATERFRONT 2.57 Acres WATERFRONT 2.57 WATERFRONT LOT LOT 2.57 2.57 Acres AcresAcres WATERFRONT LOT 2.57 Acres WATERFRONT 2.57 Acres WATERFRONT WATERFRONT LOT LOT LOT 2.57 Acres 2.57 Acres

WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 Acres WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 Acres WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 21.8 Acres Acres WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 Acres Acres WATERFRONT FARMLAND 21.8 Acres WATERFRONT WATERFRONT FARMLAND FARMLAND 21.8 Acres 21.8 Acres

$489,000 $489,000 $489,000 13620$489,000 Dowell RoadRoad 13620 Dowell $489,000 Dowell Road 13620 362013620 Dowell Dowell Road Road $489,000 Solomons, Maryland Solomons, Maryland 13620 Dowell Road $489,000 $489,000 Solomons, Maryland Solomons, Solomons, Maryland 13620Maryland Dowell Road

$238,000 $238,000 $238,000 3805$238,000 Fish Hook DriveDrive 3805 Fish Hook $238,000 Fish Hook Drive 3805 38053805 Fish FishIsland, Hook Hook Drive Drive $238,000 Broomes Maryland Broomes Maryland 3805 FishIsland, Hook Drive $238,000 $238,000 Broomes Maryland Broomes Broomes Island, Maryland Maryland 3805Island, FishIsland, Hook Drive

$499,000 $499,000 $499,000 10145$499,000 Breeden RoadRoad 10145 Breeden $499,000 Breeden 10145 1014510145 Breeden Breeden Road RoadRoad $499,000 Lusby, Maryland Lusby, Maryland 10145 Breeden Road $499,000 $499,000 MarylandRoad Lusby, Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland 10145 Breeden

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Maryland 3620Solomons, 13620 Dowell Dowell Road Road Solomons, Maryland Solomons, Solomons, Maryland Maryland

Maryland 3805 Broomes 3805 Fish Hook FishIsland, Hook Drive Drive Broomes Island, Maryland Broomes Broomes Island,Island, Maryland Maryland

Maryland 10145Lusby, 10145 Breeden Breeden Road Road Lusby, Maryland Lusby,Lusby, Maryland Maryland

View more of our listings at McNelisGroup.com View more of our listings at McNelisGroup.com View more of listings at View more of our listings at McNelisGroup.com View more of our our listings at McNelisGroup.com McNelisGroup.com View more of our listings at McNelisGroup.com View View more more of our of our listings listings at McNelisGroup.com at McNelisGroup.com © 2020©BHH Affiliates, LLC. AnLLC. independently owned owned and operated franchisee of BHHof Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices 2020 BHH Affiliates, An independently and operated franchisee BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices

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Your Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula of Virginia Real Estate Specialists

www.CorrotomanRiver.com

Private waterfront home with deep, protected pier. Completely updated with large open floor plan overlooking the water, gourmet kitchen, 5 bedroom en suites, apartment with bunk room.

$1,250,000

www.YeocomicoRiver.com

This private waterfront home offers the tranquil oasis that everyone wants at the River. The house has a gorgeous updated kitchen, waterside pool and pier on a protected cove.

$599,000

www.VirginiaCountryHome.com

This 19th century estate sits on 4 secluded acres and has been updated with all the modern amenities. Great location close to town, public boat ramps, beach and more!

$575,000

Please visit our property websites to view interactive ﬂoor plans, aerials, maps and more!

www.TaskmakersCreek.com

This property has it all: big water views, sand beach, protected pier and room for everyone. The home has an open floor plan, first floor master bedroom, waterside screened porch and 3 bay garage.

$725,000

www.GreatWicomicoRiver.com

This gorgeous Lindal Cedar home sits on the Great Wicomico River on an elevated private lot with dock. The house is updated with a waterside great room with a wall of glass and basement home theater.

$649,000

www.RappahannockRiverBeach.com

This beachfront building lot has huge river views and sits on over 7 acres. Perfectly elevated building site out of the flood zone, Private sand beach and close to amenities.

$499,000

804.724.1587

www.BeverlyShultz.com

EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA OFFERS

Chesapeake Lifestyle at half the cost

O R I E N T A L- T H E B O A T I N G C A P I T A L O F N C

REEM MO OD DEELLIINNGG R

Specializinginin Specializing - FRONTHOMES HOMES WATER WATERFRONT

WATERFRONT LIVIN G EXPERTS

CREATIVE SPACES SPACES CREATIVE

512 Audubon , Oriental, NC 4 Bed / 2.5 Bath Waterfront $549,000 | 3,093 ft2

Stunning waterfront home in the town of Oriental. The impeccably landscaped property is bulk headed and has a pier with tranquil waterfront and marsh views of Whittaker Creek. The gorgeous approach to the home gives it an estate like setting. main living area on the first floor with a master en-suite, living dining, and kitchen all waterfront with beautiful views. Cooks kitchen with granite counters and SS appliances opens too the nook. Large office/den is also on the first floor. Three more bedrooms and a bath upstairs. Covered porch off the kitchen with room for a table, chairs and grill. Huge waterfront deck is the perfect place for entertaining or relaxing and watching all the waterfowl. Lots of storage throughout the house. In a short boat ride you can be in the Neuse River and ICW. 202 Freemason St, Oriental, NC 4 Bed / 3 Bath $379,900 | 2,284 ft2

A A DESIGN-BUILD DESIGN-BUILD FIRM FIRM Providing COVID-19 Safe Practices Full Architectural Services for the Safety of our Clients Clear Communication andtoour Staff Proven Design Construction System Extraordinary Custom Homes •Craftsmanship Full Remodels Additions • Outdoor Spaces Custom Homes • Full Remodels remodelthebay.com Additions • Outdoor Spaces

410.867.0407 remodelthebay.com 410.867.0407

This beautiful early twentieth century home in the heart of the village has been lovingly restored and thoughtfully improved. The original character of the home has been preserved with today’s conveniences added. Vinyl siding for ease of maintenance; the metal roof has been scraped and painted; new energy efficient windows where needed; refinished original pine floors throughout. New zoned HVAC upstairs and down. 4 generously sized bedrooms and 3 bathrooms; living room with bay window; parlor has original mantle. Updated bathrooms; Rebuilt garage; backyard fencing with solar lights; new stone patio and deck. New hot water heater, and so much more. Complete list of upgrades in attachments.

22826 Hwy 55, Oriental NC | 252.249.9800

T I D E WAT E R C O U N T RY. C O M

LOT 6 CEDAR POINT ~ WEEMS Sunsets ~ Rip Rap ~ $395,000

Couldn’t find it? Let us help you BUILD it. Bragg & Company has been helping people BUY their dream homes — and BUILD their dream homes — since 1978. Look no further for your LOCAL source for real estate, development, and construction.

LOT 10 CATCH PENNY ~ LANCASTER

LOT 4 OAK POINT ~ LANCASTER

LOT 15 CEDAR POINT ~ WEEMS

Corrotoman River ~ 725’ Shoreline ~ $400,000

2 Acres ~ 256’ Waterfront ~ $450,000

157’ Shoreline ~ 1.57 Acres ~ $139,000

CORROTOMAN RIVER ~ WEEMS

GORDON DR ~ CARTER’S CREEK ~ WEEMS

101 WINONA DR ~ WHITE STONE

36 Acres ~ 1,300’ Waterfront ~ $645,000

2 Acres ~ $295,000

1 Acre ~ Sand Beach ~ $227,500

TO VIEW THE LARGEST INVENTORY OF WATERFRONT LOTS, VISIT www.braggco.com

Bo Bragg

804-436-7337 Bo@BraggCo.com

Barbara Bragg

804-436-6787 Barbara@BraggCo.com

4 0 0 S O U T H M A I N S T R E E T | K I L M A R N O C K , VA 2 2 4 8 2 • 4 3 4 1 I R V I N G T O N R O A D | I R V I N G T O N , VA 2 2 4 8 0

Virginia Triangle Reef wild chesapeake

CBM

Tautog and black sea bass are the two most popular residents of this reef, but it can also produce impressive catches of large flounder, dolphin, and amberjack seasonally. In the fall, large Sonar images show the wrecks bluefish and even some bluefin tuna in of Virginia’s Triangle Reef. the 100-pound range have been known to congregate around the reef. No wonder it is also a popular party boat and dive destination. Most fishermen either jig lures or drift bait for the sea bass that tend to hold to the reef structure almost all year. Flounder is another species available on the Triangle Reef for most of the year. Strip baits (flounder or bluefish bellies) teamed with bucktail-style jigs work, too. (Check seasons and regulations.) Within the Triangle Reef lies what’s left of the Liberty Ship Morgan. (It sank in 1943 after colliding with the SS Montana.) Through December, you can catch chopper bluefish by trolling plugs over and around the wrecks. Or use your fish finder to pinpoint structure and vertically jig for blues and other gamefish with heavy metal lures such as StingSilvers, Rain Minnows or Lil’ Bunkers. Neill suggests trolling around the wrecks for king mackerel and false albacore early in the fall, and for chopper bluefish later in the season. by Capt. Chris D. Dollar Fishing the wrecks themselves will yield hen I want fresh seafood, I ask a local. And when I need the skinny on good catches of triggerfish, tautog, drum, and fall fishing spots off the Virginia Coast, I’m never too sheepish to ask two of even some red snapper on occasion. the finest and most prolific anglers I know: Virginia’s Ken Neill and Ric Burnley. I’ve For flounder, Ric uses a two-ounce, tapped into their deep wells of fishing knowledge innumerable times, and they’ve flat-head bucktail and a strip of cut bait, 07/02/2008 15:27:10 36.976101904 Lat -75.413941637 Lon been generous with that knowledge, making them great ambassadors for Virginia adding that cobia belly works best. He sport fishing. uses a conventional reel (his personal 07/02/2008 15:49:05 -75.380134282 Lon spooled with I suggest everyone try fishing36.965211924 the abundant wrecks andLat reefs off Virginia and choice is a 400 Calcutta) Maryland at least once. These underwater structures attract and hold abundant 30-pound test braid and a three-foot game fish in16:37:07 the fall, and in good weather they’re fairly easyLat to reach. leader of 30-pound fluorocarbon. 07/02/2008 36.990992118 -75.363670146 Lon For example, the Triangle Reef, located approximately 30 nautical miles off “To target sea bass and triggerfish,” Cape Henry,17:03:46 is a popular spot this36.988933862 time of year, and with good reason. It’s a -75.363072313 Ric adds, “I useLon a two-hook bottom rig 07/02/2008 Lat relatively short jaunt from most Virginia Beach area ports. It’s only about 16.5 tied out of 50-pound monofilament with nautical miles or 073 degrees true36.993240822 from Chesapeake Light Tower. 3/0 baitholder hooks 07/02/2008 16:59:16 Lat Four sunken -75.363036902 Lonand a six-ounce Liberty Ships and a Coast Guard Cutter are the main structures on this rectangular sinker. Add a bucktail skirt to each hook site. The water depths range from36.993764209 90 feet to greater than 100Lat feet, with profile reliefs for added attraction. 07/02/2008 16:58:56 -75.362672591 LonA two-inch piece of ranging from 28 to 32 feet. cut squid or albacore is the best bait.”

Wreck Fishing

07/02/2008 16:57:56

36.994825149 Lat

-75.361340874 Lon October 2020 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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When trolling, he’ll drag lures such as Rapalas or Clark spoons tied on a snap swivel that’s connected to the mainline with a 2- to 8-ounce inline sinker or a No. 1 planer. If you want to drift or anchor over a wreck, Neill advises deploying a wreck marker, which is basically a buoy tied to a weighted anchor. “Once you have the wreck marked, you can stop using the GPS and key in on the wreck marker, which makes setting up your drift a lot easier,” he suggests. “I usually prefer to drift and jig as I feel it produces a better quality of fish and also allows me to look for flounder.” Ken adds that if the wreck is fishing well or the drift is becoming fast due to wind or tide, he’ll anchor up as this increases your time fishing rather than positioning the boat. For a small state, Maryland has outsized fishing opportunities, and

coastal wreck fishing is no exception. In fact, the state record for tautog has been broken not once, not twice, but three times since 2007 by anglers working the structure off Ocean City, Maryland. But there are other game fish to catch, too. Erik Zlokovitz, a recreational fishing specialist with Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources, says the 2020 summer was excellent for anglers targeting black sea bass holding on the reefs and wrecks off Ocean City. “As we get into the fall months, cooler water temperatures will spur another flurry of activity with sea bass feeding heavily prior to overwintering. Some bluefish will also mix in on the wrecks and reefs in fall,” Zlokovitz said. “The fall sea bass bite should go well into late October and early November. As we get into November/December, anglers will start targeting the hard-

fighting tautog using an assortment of green crabs or Jonah crabs.” (Note: It is illegal to fish with Asian “white-legger” crabs for bait in Maryland waters.) Steaming from the Ocean City Inlet, coastal wrecks and reefs are usually a relatively easy run in fair weather for the fishing port’s party boat fleet and doable for private boat anglers. If you’re not that experienced and want to learn the ropes of fishing Ocean City’s near shore wrecks, go with a seasoned party boat skipper. Consider Kelly’s Reef, less than five nautical miles southeast of the inlet jetties and a favorite with small boat fishermen. Taking up about the southern one-third of Little Gull Bank, this reef covers 467 acres of Atlantic bottom, over which concrete rubble, prefabricated concrete units, and a sunken barge have been placed. There are a variety of game fish that hang around Kelly’s Reef, including tautog

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and black sea bass, as well as flounder, croakers, bluefish, and spadefish seasonally. At 8.4 miles southeast of the inlet, The Bass Grounds is another good option. I’ve heard of anglers in jon boats making that trek on glassy water days in summer. That’s a hard pass for me, but for competent sport fishermen in seaworthy boats, it’s a good destination. Water depth ranges from 50 feet on the eastern side to 75 feet of water to its western edge. The reef was at one point considered two distinct areas but was re-permitted as one 804-acre reef. The Bass Grounds reef materials include concrete pipe and cable mounds, as well as several sunken boats. The manmade materials create good habitat, attracting gamefish species such as tautog, black sea bass, and summer flounder. Sheepshead, spadefish, and bluefish are also visitors to the Bass Grounds in season. Even king mackerel and sharks have been caught here during the summer. Skippers say the Bass Grounds can save the day when conditions are too rough to go farther offshore. When you’re on the hunt for good eats and good fishing, it always pays to listen to local knowledge. h

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Chris Dollar is a fishing guide, tackle shop owner, and all-around Chesapeake outdoorsman with more than 25 years experience in avoiding office work.

FIND THE HOT SPOTS For wreck and reef fishing hot spots, check out these sites: Ocean City Reef Foundation ocreefs.org Virginia Marine Resources Commission webapps.mrc.virginia.gov/public/maps/ artificial_reefs.php October 2020

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jody’s log Back Creek, ELK Back Creek, SASSAFRAS

Back Creek, NORTH BALTIMORE

Seven reasons not to judge a Back Creek by its boring name.

Back Creek, BODKIN

MD Back Creek, SEVERN

by Capt. Jody Argo Schroath

WASHINGTON D.C.

ST. MICHAELS

SALISBURY Back Creek, PATUXENT

Back Creek, MANOKIN

TAPPAHANNOCK

Back Creek, YORK Back Creek, SOUTH

NORFOLK

The Bay’s Back-Up Plans

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October 2020

hat’s the most boring name for a piece of water? Mill Creek, you might say, or one of those directional rivers like North, South, East, or West. Well, yes, those are all very boring, but to my mind, the winner is Back Creek and its first cousin, Back River. Mill Creek I would put second, followed by the large family of compass-based rivers and creeks. All of these, however, as boring as they may be, fall into the category of purpose-based names, which is to say they were either the back entrance to somewhere, they had a mill, or they went off in some direction (although you do have the confusing case of South River being north of West River). And arguably they make more sense than their more whimsical companions, like Bread and Cheese (Back River) and Dead and Bones (Carter Creek), whose meanings are generally lost in the mists of time. But who cares? Not everything can be named Back Creek. Heaven knows, the Chesapeake has enough of them already.

1. Back Creek, Elk River I’m not going to say much about this first one, because, whether you realize it or not, you are already familiar with it. This is the creek that became the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. After fooling around for a

couple of centuries trying to locate the cut-through between the Delaware and Chesapeake bays, engineers finally decided to use one of the Elk River’s tributaries and extend it east to Delaware City, with locks at both ends. Now, nearly all of what was once Back Creek is canal—deep, wide, straight, and rip-rapped into submission. It also comes out at Reedy Point, De., with no locks at all. So the next time you go up to Chesapeake City or through the canal, give a thought to the Back Creek that is no more. And, no, I don’t know what this one was the back entrance to.

2. Back Creek, Sassafras River This Back Creek, located about six miles up the lovely Sassafras River, winds behind Knight Island (which is not an island) and soon splits into a handful of even smaller creeks like Foreman, McGill, and Dowdel. It’s a nice place to anchor, although you’ll have to take my word for it that you will find a bit more water inside than the charts show—maybe five or six feet. The reason this Back Creek has made my short list is that, at the junction of Back and McGill creeks, you will find a day-use dock that will take you to Mount Harmon Plantation, a 1651 settlement at The World’s End. Delightful, yes? The home, the gardens, and the grounds were rescued some years ago by a DuPont, who restored, collected, and refurnished the home. There are trails through the grounds for meandering to your heart’s content. If your boat has a shallow draft or you are paddling, use the dock. Otherwise, anchor right in that pocket between the two creeks and dinghy in. There is an admission, but it’s well worth the cost. And as of press time, it’s open. Here’s the website: mountharmon.org.

3. Back Creek, Bodkin Creek Bodkin Creek is a handy residential creek located at the mouth of the Patapsco River. It’s a good place to dive for cover in a pinch. You’ll find several good anchorages on the main branch by turning south after you enter, and you’ll find another good one if you stay straight after the entrance to take the Back Creek branch. This last one is a little deepwater indentation in the shoreline between Back Creek Point and Hickory Point. And that would be all I’d have to say about this Back Creek, (or I might not mention it at all), except I’d like to point you in the direction of Hancock’s Resolution, an old farm that dates to 1785. Hancock’s Resolution was farmed well into the 20th century by its owners, the Hancock family, who kept the farmhouse pretty much as it was, without electricity or running water. With development crowding in on all sides, Hancock’s Resolution, on Back Creek Point, is one of the very few such farms left intact. It is now a park owned by Anne Arundel County and operated by the Friends of Hancock’s Resolution. I’ve never tried to get there by boat, but in a pinch you could probably get there from Geislers Point Marina or anchor and dinghy to shore. I’ll try it the next time I’m there. Meanwhile, the website is historichancocksresolution.org.

4. Back Creek, Severn River

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As I write this I am sitting on my boat, Moment of Zen, on this particular Back Creek, surrounded by an aluminum forest of masts that stretches as far as I can see up the creek and down. For this Back Creek is the back entrance into the city of Annapolis by way of the Eastport peninsula. If Spa Creek is the city’s main maritime street, then Back Creek

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is its parking lot. And what a parking lot! While the sight of so many sailboats, powerboats, and paddlecraft is a balm to the soul, it also means that most of the creek’s history as a working waterway has been lost, with the notable exception of McNasby Oyster Company, now the Annapolis Maritime Museum. Find out more at amaritime.org.

5. Back Creek, Patuxent Like Back Creek in Annapolis, Back Creek in Solomons is both a back entrance to town and a waterway used as a nautical parking lot. When you come into Solomons between Ship Point and Solomons Point, you come to the common entrance to Mill Creek (one of the Bay’s great anchorages), which promptly splits to the right, and Back Creek, which first circles Molly’s Leg island like the Arc de Triomphe and

then heads up behind Solomons. On the Solomons side, you’ll find about a dozen popular marinas, including Spring Cove and Zahnisers, while on the opposite shore you’ll find the many docks of Calvert Marina. This is the former site of a World War II amphibious training base and a fascinating place to wander around. On the Solomons side, the past is splendidly remembered by the excellent Calvert Marine Museum (reservations are recommended at calvertmarine museum.org).

6. Back Creek, Manokin River We go back to the Eastern Shore for Back Creek number six, this time to the Manokin River, off Tangier Sound. Now I’m willing to bet that you’ve never been to the Manokin River. It has only one navigable tributary, which is to say it has one that is slightly less shallow than the

others, including Back Creek. If you have a draft of more than a couple of feet, you are not likely to get to this one. And if you do, you won’t find much entertainment. That brings me to my point: I want you to come to the Manokin River, pull back to neutral and then go up on deck. Now I want you to look around in every direction. Do you know what you are going to see? You are going to see exactly the same thing that you would have seen had you come there in the 16th century. And that alone is worth the trip. You will probably see even less than you would have seen in the 17th and 18th centuries, because the channel was then navigable to the river’s head in Princess Anne, so there would have been a fair number of ships coming and going. For an absolute treat, head into Goose Creek just inside the river’s mouth, if you can, and dock at Goose Creek Marina in Rumbley. You’ll thank me.

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7. Back Creek, York River Our final Back Creek stop is near the mouth of the York River, just north of the Poquoson River (a marvelous destination all on its own). This Back Creek is short but sweet . . . and, alas, there’s a shoal. I’ll describe it to you anyway. Fifty years or so ago, the most entertaining way to enter the creek would have been by the channel known as the Sandbox, which gives you an idea of why it’s no longer a dependable way to get in. The Sandbox cuts between Goodwin Neck and the Goodwin Islands and avoids going around the sizeable shoal off the islands. In 2020, you’ll want to take the long way in. As a consolation prize, if you are coming from the north, you can cut across the York Swash Channel between Mobjack Bay and the York River. If you are coming from the south, you won’t care either way. Once inside,

you’ll come first to Seaford Scallop Company, a wholesale scallop supplier founded in the 1970s by the Wells family, who have been in the seafood business a lot longer than that. Its ocean-going boats will be lined up along the bulkhead. A bit farther up Back Creek, you’ll come to the docks of Mills Marina, a fascinating place, and then the Seaford Yacht Club, which claims to be the friendliest yacht club anywhere, and I’ve never seen any reason to disagree with that. If you like, there is a pretty good anchorage just at the mouth of Claxton Creek, opposite the Sandbox. That’s my quick tour of my seven favorite Back Creeks. If I’ve left out your favorite Back Creek, let me know ( jody@chesapeakebaymagazine. com). Before I stop, though, I do want to mention the Bay’s two Back Rivers, both of which deserve an article all

their own. One is up near Baltimore, just north of the Patapsco River. Its entrance channel lies between Cuckold Point and Pleasure Island. This Back River is home to both the excellent Weavers Marine Service and, as I mentioned earlier, the excellently named Bread and Cheese Creek, as well as several parks. The second Back River is all the way back down the Bay, south of the Poquoson River and north of Old Point Comfort. It’s sort of vaguely the back entrance to Hampton, I guess. Inside you’ll find Langley Airfield, several fair-to-middling anchorages, and very nice marinas, including Marina Cove, Dandy Haven and Bell Isle, all on the south side. CBM Cruising Editor Jody Argo Schroath, with the help and not infrequent hindrance of ship’s dogs Bindi and Sammy, goes up and down bays, rivers and creeks in search of adventure and stories.

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40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $220,000 40’ 1998 J Boat - J / 120 ........................................ $90,000 40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $295,000 40’ 1977 Gulfstar Hood 40 ................................ $119,000 40’ 2013 Marlow Hunter 40 ............................. $172,000 40’ 1997 Pacific Seacraft 40 ............................. $229,000 40’ 1977 Gulfstar Custom Hood 40 .................. $82,500 40’ 1987 Tartan 40 - MD ..................................... $117,500 40’ 2000 Caliber 40 LRC ..................................... $169,900 39’ 2021 Excess 12 Catamaran - IN Stock ........... CALL 38’ 1984 CT 38 TA CHIAO................................... $135,000 38’ 1985 Wilbur 38 Dwoneast Fly ...................... $79,500 38’ 1984 Irwin 38 CC .............................................. $59,900 38’ 1986 Vagabond 38........................................... $85,000 38’ 2006 C&C 115 ................................................. $139,000 38’ 1994 Beneteau 38s5........................................ $54,900 38’ 2000 X-Yachts 382 ......................................... $139,500 37’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft - Clealock 37 ......... $109,000 37’ 1979 Tartan 37c ................................................ $39,000 37’ 2007 Tartan 3700 CCR ................................. $255,000 37’ 2006 Beneteau 373 ......................................... $98,000 37’ 2021 Excess 11 Catamaran - In Stock ............ CALL 37’ 2005 Island Packet 370 .............................. $235,000

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37’ 2000 Jeanneau SO 37 .................................... $80,000 37’ 2006 Tartan 3700........................................... $210,000 36’ 2008 Hunter 36 ................................................ $79,500 36’ 2005 Bavaria 36 ............................................... $80,000 36’ 2019 Legacy 36 # 8 - Annapolis .............. $565,000 36’ 2003 Bavaria 36 ............................................... $74,900 35’ 1984 Wauquiez Pretorien .............................. $39,000 35’ 1986 Baltic 35 ......................................................... CALL 35’ 1989 Island Packet 35 ..................................... $74,500 34’ 1990 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ............... $89,000 34’ 2009 X-Yachts 34 ........................................... $145,000 34’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 349 - In Stock ................... CALL 34’ 2003 Gemini 105MC ....................................... $99,000 33’ 2015 Tartan 101 ............................................. $139,000 31’ 2015 Ranger Tug - Command Bridge .... $249,900 31’ 1997 Camano 31 Trawler ............................... $84,500 31’ 2013 Ranger Tug Sedan ............................. $239,500 28’ 2003 Alerion Express 28 .............................. $59,000 27’ 1992 Nor’Sea 27 .............................................. $43,000 27’ 2018 Chris-Craft 27 Launch ....................... $117,500 26’ 2007 Everglades 260 CC ................................ $74,500 24’ 1989 Dana 24 - on Way .................................. $49,000 21’ 1971 Crosby - Launch ..................................... $72,000

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stern lines

A Baltimore Defender

altimore native George Roberts served as gunner on Thomas Kemp’s privateer Chasseur during its successful campaign against the British (see page 78 for more). After returning to Baltimore aboard the Chasseur, he was hailed as a war hero along with the rest of the crew, and participated in parades and commemorative events at Fort McHenry until his death in 1861 at the age of 95. photo from Maryland Center for History and Culture

104

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2020

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