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WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE??

Steve’s The stock market continues to push alltime highs and the housing market is seeing sales prices through the roof (pun intended!!)

Interest rates remain very low, and government spending continues to climb. Oh yeah, let’s not forget Covid numbers are increasing with the newer Delta variant and the prospect of numerous variants going forward and we just had hurricanes, tornados, and flooding rocked the US from the gulf to New England!

So what does all of this mean??

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Volume 51

Number 6

PUBLISHER

John Stefancik

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Meg Walburn Viviano

MANAGING EDITOR Chris Landers

Cruising Editor: Jody Argo Schroath Multimedia Journalist: Cheryl Costello Contributing Editor: Susan Moynihan Editors-at-Large: Wendy Mitman Clarke, Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams Contributing Writers: Rafael Alvarez, Ann Eichenmuller, Robert Gustafson, Mark Hendricks, Marty LeGrand, Kate Livie, Nancy Taylor Robson, Charlie Youngmann

ART DIRECTOR Caroline Foster

Contributing Photographers: Andy Anderson, Mark L. Atwater, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, K.B. Moore, Will Parson, Tamzin B. Smith, Chris Witzgall

PRODUCTION MANAGER Patrick Loughrey

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Ogar

ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Senior Account Manager Megan Tilley • 919-452-0833 megan@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Publisher Emeritus Richard J. Royer

CIRCULATION Theresa Sise • 410-263-2662 office@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC Chief Executive Officer, John Martino Executive Vice President, Tara Davis

601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924 ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Editorial: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Circulation: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com Billing: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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October 2021

Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 12 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2021 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

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Water World 56

Features

OCTOBER 2021—Volume 51 Number 6

48 Gangsters and Fast Boats

14 Chestertown, Md.

This was Prohibition on the Chesapeake Bay—Robert Gustafson

BALTIMORE 82

56 Water World

join the Bay boating scene—Ann Levelle

34 Reedville, Va.

MD ST. MICHAELS 26

48

26 Oxford, Md.

14

ANNAPOLIS 62 WASHINGTON D.C.

Diving into the Olympics of water tasting­—Van Smith

62 Welcome Aboard!

Young boaters, women, and new families

VAN SMITH

CONTENTS

DE

48 Red Bank, Va. 62 Edgewater, Md. 82 Baltimore, Md.



84 Rappahannock River

Talk of the Bay 14 The Rest of the Story

A bookseller falls in love with Chestertown—Rafael Alvarez

20 The Big Joy of a Little Old Boat

An old Boston Whaler opens up a whole new world—Kate Livie

26 Reclaiming History An Oxford museum celebrates Black

VA

34 84

VA

DELTAVILLE

CAPE CHARLES

NORFOLK

On the Cover

founding families—Niambi Davis

Cutwater Fishing

by Josh Davidson

October 2021

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

9

CONTENTS

Columns 34 Chesapeake Almanac

Our New England neighbors, here for the winter—Capt. John Page Williams.

40 On Boats: Regulator 37 JERRY KIRKHART/CHESAPEAKE BAY PROGRAM

John Page Williams tests a triad of power.

82 Chesapeake Cocktail

Two Prohibition-era classics live on in Baltimore.

84 Wild Chesapeake

Capt. Chris D. Dollar shares Virginia river secrets.

Chesapeake Almanac 34

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October 2021

W

elcome to the CBM boat issue! If you’re reading this, I can already tell there’s something about getting out on the Bay (and all its creeks and rivers) that captivates you. I’m betting you fall roughly into one of three categories when it comes to boating: 1. Those who haven’t spent much time on boats. To these folks, the pastime seems alluring, exciting, aspirational.

Maybe they’ve been invited out on a friend’s boat for the afternoon, were impressed by the nautical know-how the captain casually tosses around, and later seduced by a stunning orange sunset over an uninterrupted horizon line.

2. Boat owners. To them, boats are a labor of love, a lifestyle for which you sacrifice time and money, but wear it all like a badge of honor. That sunset cruise? Yes, it’s beautiful, and it was earned with three hours of deckscrubbing in the hot sun. Oh, and the cushions, life jackets, and cooler didn’t walk themselves down the dock, either. But doesn’t all that work make the sunset even prettier?

3. New adopters. These are the people who just bought a boat, or those who have been talking about it for years and are ready to finally make their big purchase. They have all the starry-eyed dreams of the aspirational boater from Category One, but they’re going to have to get comfy with Category Two. In the past 18 months, boating’s “new adopters” have multiplied. And the people who are now getting into it are not your father’s boatowner.

They’re young couples, families with little kids, and more than even before,

women. We meet some of these new faces throughout this special October boat issue.

It’s no surprise to us that the lifestyle is catching on. Any boater (aspirational, old, or new) will speak with reverence of the moment when dolphins surfed alongside their boat in Eastern Bay, or they were dwarfed by a massive container ship steaming toward the Port of Baltimore. It’s that once-in-alifetime fish, or the breeze against your sun-kissed face after a day of tubing and swimming off the boat, that makes boating feel like a club you were lucky enough to join. Boaters still wave to each other on a close pass, as if to say, “Hey, we’re both in on this secret.”

This season, the CBM team has been lucky to get out on the water as a group on a couple of blissful Fridays. In our media company you’ll find all three categories of Bay boaters: the eager office manager who wants to learn all there is to know about boating; the publisher, a lifelong boater that still gets giddy when sharing trivia about the Bay; and the editorial director (that’s me) who takes the helm and is filled with the pride of operating a vessel on this vast brackish expanse (and even docking it!).

Whether you’re relatively green with a new water toy or a salty longtime captain, there’s magic to find in a boat on the Bay. Meg Walburn Viviano grew up boating on the Magothy River. She started as a Chesapeake Bay Magazine intern, launched the Bay Bulletin online news site in 2017, and now leads all of CBM’s media content. Reach her at meg@chesapeakebaymagazine.com.

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TALK OF THE BAY

The Rest of the Story

How a bookseller fell in love with Chestertown

by Rafael Alvarez

JENNIFER BISHOP

I

f Tom Martin were to write his memoirs, the story of his life would be at home on any number of shelves at The Bookplate, the shop he has owned in Chestertown, Md. since 2004. You might find it among tomes on international peace campaigns, not far from accounts by Jimmy Carter, or in the Chesapeake Bay collection, side by side with works by Eastern Shore author Tom Horton.

And if the story, which turns on a fortuitous passage featuring hairdressers, were released during the current chapter of Martin’s 71 years,

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 14

October 2021

Emily Kalwaitis, bookshop manager at The Bookplate in Chestertown, Md.

you’d find it among accounts of passionate bookstore owners, from Sylvia Beach in Paris to Larry McMurtry in Archer City, Texas. There’s even a casual acquaintance with the legendary cartoonist R. Crumb—of Keep on Truckin’ fame—whose sister, Carol Veronica Degennaro, lived in nearby Rock Hall until her death in May 2020.

Though Martin says it’s unlikely that he’ll commit the life of Detroit-born Thomas David Martin on paper anytime soon (if ever), it might be his next unexpected move when he decides to walk out of The Bookplate for the last time.

He’s made unexpected moves before. Take that one day some two decades ago when he made a sharp break with politics and the advocating of important-though-quixotic causes, like persuading the nations of the world to stop killing each other.

“I’d been traveling around the

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world for 20 years—Central America and Palestine, and drinking too much,” said Martin of the moment in his mid-50s. “I had to sit down and analyze where I was in my life.”

On a trip to the now-defunct chain bookstore Borders, a sign caught his eye: Bookseller Wanted. Remembered Martin, “I thought, ‘Screw it, I need a change.” And he took the job.

“It was meant as a lark,” he said.

As so often happens, the lark became his life.

After a spell with Borders, he went to work for Olsson’s Books and Records in Georgetown, which closed in 2002.

The shuttering of brick-and-mortar bookstores, both national chains and independent shops, has continued apace for decades. Yet, two years after Olsson’s closed (and with the same “what the hell” attitude with which he’d made previous pivots), Martin founded The Bookplate at 112 South Cross Street in Chestertown.

But first, the hairdressers.

“The people who did my wife’s hair in D.C. had a place in Chestertown and they said, ‘You’ve got to come to Chestertown.’ We didn’t know where it was but went anyway. They had another salon across the street from a building they owned that was vacant and said, ‘Why don’t you open a bookstore?’”

Again, why not? But first Martin had some serious crabbing to do, with a guy named Dave who he’d met at a regular gathering of folks who once drank like fish and decided a more responsible life was in everyone’s best interest.

“He didn’t have anybody to work on his boat that summer and I said, ‘What about me?’” said Martin. The waterman laughed it off—are you kidding me?—but when he couldn’t find anyone else to take the job, the aspiring bookmonger came aboard.

“I’d work the crab boat from 4 a.m. to 11 a.m. and then come in here and build shelves the rest of the day,” said

Local interest Chesapeake books share space with a wide variety of subjects.

Martin, who can be seen baiting crab pots on the vessel in a Marc Castelli watercolor behind the store’s counter.

Castelli is an Eastern Shore institution and his scenes of life on the water there are treasured, as he is, said a fellow artist on the shore, “trusted by the people he paints because he gets to know the watermen.”

But a Castelli is not a Crumb, a distinction even the store’s black cat

Keke (or a very stoned Fritz the Cat) knows.

“It’s a real treat when a cultural icon you’ve grown up with visits your store every time he’s in town,” said Martin, though since the death of Crumb’s sister it’s unlikely the longtime resident of Sauve, France will be stopping by again.

Between the watercolor of Martin the crabber’s apprentice and the customer side of the register, you will find Emily Kalwaitis—native of the Garden State, a high school library page once upon a time and, for the past seven years, store manager of The Bookplate and its 11,000 volumes.

“We’re pretty well known for our local collection,” said Kalwaitis. “Many of our customers are visitors to the area passing through. They’re enraptured October 2021

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

17

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by the area and want to know more about it.”

Thus, books about the Chesapeake Bay and the Eastern Shore are always in demand and sell just behind works of general fiction.

“We sell a lot of [James] Michener’s Chesapeake and Chestertown local Kate Livie’s Chesapeake Oysters,” said Kalwaitis, a visual artist who has made many portraits of authors that hang in the store as well as commissions for customers.

Martin, who once had a near complete collection of books by Nobel laureates in stock, has freely received thousands of books from downsizing locals, along with the personal library of the late Washington College English professor Ralph Thornton (1920-2020), who included the gift in his will.

“You could just tell that the man loved books,” said Martin, noting that Thornton only wrote in the books with pencil. “Lots of literary criticism on poets I’d never heard of, all in their original dust jackets from obscure Irish presses, obscure English presses.”

Of his pursuit of inventory, Martin said, “I’m like a baseball manager; I’ll take the best player available no matter what position they play.

Whatever the subject, I’ll go with the best they’ve got.”

Chestertown writer Ellen Uzelac frequents The Bookplate regularly and takes guests there when they are visiting the riverside seat of Kent County.

“Going to Bookplate is like falling down a rabbit hole in a good way,” said Uzelac. “Room after room, aisle after aisle—an endless array. No matter who I’ve taken there, no one has walked out without at least a couple of books.

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2021

Rafael Alvarez is the author of The Baltimore Love Project, a history of public murals in his hometown. He can be reached via orlo.leini@gmail.com.

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TALK OF THE BAY

The Big Joy of a Little Old Boat

An old Boston Whaler opens up a new world.

by Kate Livie

A

Exploring Chester River beaches on

Elver leads to cool discoveries, especially for Ben Ford, who is always on the lookout for arrowheads.

your way into the oxbows and coves of shallow water tributaries. But for bigger experiences and bigger water, nothing can beat the freedom of a river skiff.

Easy to launch, tow, and run, a nimble little motorboat is the key to really getting out there. A passport to new rivers, a just-big-enough-boat can take you to unexpected encounters, secret beaches, and little glimpses of that wild paradise John Smith explored.

For me and my husband, Ben, the search for a river boat of our own started a few years ago. Budget dictated that it was going to be old as well as small. But that was not a problem. I

KATE LIVIE

good friend of mine—a lifelong Chesapeake environmental educator—is fond of saying: “If you live in the Chesapeake and you’ve never been out on the water, you’re missing out on 90 percent of what this region has to offer.” I think he’s right. So much of the magic and dynamism happens here at the edges, where the land stops and the water begins. Ospreys diving and fluttering up, perch grasped firmly in talons.

Huge marshes full of wild rice and hungry red-winged blackbirds.

On smaller craft—kayaks, paddleboards, canoes—you can thread the edges of that 90 percent, nosing

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 20

October 2021

Left: “If there are two

grew up in Boston Whalers, fishing, crabbing, swimming, getting jellyfish stings—you know, really living. To me, an ’80s Super Sport had it all. Durability, check. Shallow draft, check. Capacity, timelessness, and aggressively boxy ’80s styling you just have to love, check, check, check.

Fearless millennial online shoppers that we are, we scoured online listings on Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist.

Much scrolling later, we found her—a 13-foot 1989 Super Sport with a 25 hp Johnson engine. We drove across the Bay to get a closer look. She was well kept but clearly well loved, nowhere near close to mint condition. We figured as long as the hull wasn’t holding water we’d be alright. The engine ran fine. We bought her on the spot.

We named her Elver, for the little glass eels that run up the river when the weather starts to warm. It was late spring, and time to commission our new vessel. This meant taking off all the (excuse my French) bull**** that had accumulated barnacle-like on her hull over the years—superfluous hardware to obsolete lines or gear, clamshell folding seats with ugly blue vinyl covers, a cracked rub rail installed over an even older rub rail. We stripped her down and removed 30 years of hasty decisions and quick fixes. At the end, she wasn’t so much a phoenix rising from the ashes as a baby beluga released from wildlife rehabilitation: solid, weighty, and ready to roam the rivers with tenacity if not elegance.

We’ve had Elver for three summers now, and every season brings new adventures. With a Kent County ramp permit and a full tank of gas, the possibilities are practically endless. Picnics and late afternoon swims at Cacaway Island. Nosing into Southeast Creek to watch the osprey

people on board who look like they’re having the time of their lives, that’s probably us.”

Bottom: Elver helped create a whole new life centered around Chester River experiences.

circle overhead while a thunderhead splits around us. Heading upriver to see the starry blossoms of wild celery floating on the water’s surface, thick stands of the submerged grasses waving just below the waterline.

Coming on a Chester River log canoe race wrapping up, sails fluttering and the crew’s legs dangling from hiking boards as they wait to get towed back to the dock. And once, magically, a bottlenose dolphin breaking the calm water of Langford Creek.

Even if we have to slow for the wake of bigger boats lest we get swamped, our petite river skiff has never failed to show us a good time.

From dock bars to arrowhead hunts, raft-ups to cocktail cruises, Elver’s helped us create a whole new life centered around Chester River experiences. She has been a wonderful first boat, no matter that she’s small and a little long in the tooth. The funny thing is, for all her simplicity, she never fails to turn heads and provoke October 2021

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

21

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October 2021

nostalgia. It seems that little Whaler Super Sports, powered by Johnson engines, were a lot of people’s first boat. “I had a boat just like that when I was a teenager in Oxford.” “My first boat was a Super Sport. They’re the perfect size—easy on gas, easy to maintain. I wish I still had that boat.”

The moral of the story seems to be that you can size up, add bells and whistles, but at the end of the day, you can’t really improve upon something that is already pretty damn great. It’s a good thing to keep in mind when you’re surfing the monster wake from another big cabin cruiser.

Maybe someday we’ll get something bigger; an 18-foot Montauk like the one I grew up on, perhaps.

But for now, we’re happy to kick around in our feisty little Whaler.

I like to think of her as the logical progression in a long line of Chester River small craft—the log canoe, the bateau, the deadrise skiff, and now, Elver, all built for one person to run in smaller waters. Where my grandfather ran trotlines north of the Crumpton bridge in the ’40s on his bateau, we now explore on our own river boat.

With one lucky purchase, and a little elbow grease, we’ve fully unlocked a truly essential Chesapeake experience. It feels like a birthright, and a joyous one at that.

If you’re heading up the Chester on a summer evening, you might spot a little Whaler with a blue bimini. If there are two people on board who look like they’re having the time of their lives, that’s probably us. Give us a wave, and we’ll wave back, in the universal language of on-the-water camaraderie.

Just do us a favor and watch your wake when you pass by.

Kate Livie is a Chesapeake writer, educator, and historian. An Eastern Shore native and current faculty at Washington College’s Center for Environment and Society, Livie’s award-winning book Chesapeake Oysters was published in 2015.

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TALK OF THE BAY

Reclaiming History

An Oxford museum celebrates Black founding families.

By Niambi Davis

IMAGES COURTESY OF WATER’S EDGE MUSEUM

I

n February 2021, the Water’s Edge Museum opened at 101 Mill Street in Oxford, Md. The building that once hosted African American dances now houses a collection of drawings, paintings, lithographs, and writings both informative and celebratory of African American life on the Eastern Shore. The Museum invites visitors to “find themselves at the water’s edge” and learn the stories of Maryland’s Black founding families.

Museum director Candace Henry, the Eastern Shore’s first woman of color in such a role, offers this definition: “The founding fathers acknowledged that without the enslaved they would have been unable to build the country. The term founding Black families acknowledges that fact.”

According to both Jeffrey Moaney, director of founding black family genealogy and histories, and Annie Miller, director of education, the Water’s Edge story began long before the creation of a museum was ever considered.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 26

October 2021

BERNARD MOANEY AS A DUCK HUNTER - 1931

Ruth Starr Rose “refused to paint the stereotypes of African Americans so prevalent in the depiction of the time.”

Dr. Barbara Paca discovered the paintings of Ruth Starr Rose while working on another project. Rose, a white artist, painted portraits of African American life on Maryland’s Eastern Shore that refuted every stereotype of the early 1900s. Impressed by the work of the woman she first assumed to be black, Dr. Paca began to acquire Rose’s work and in the process discovered the artist’s life beyond painting. Not only did Ruth Starr Rose capture the images of her neighbors in the villages of Unionville and Copperville, she invited them to her home and worshipped with them at Copperville’s DeShields United Methodist Church.

“I give credit to Ruth Starr Rose for being a pioneer of her time,” says Jeffrey, also a descendant of many of Rose’s subjects.

“She refused to paint the stereotypes of African Americans so prevalent in the depiction of the time.” Through genteel but revolutionary resistance, Rose fought against the status quo.

ANNA MAY MOANEY - 1930 MOANEY BOY ON THE STAIRS - 1930

Rose’s portraits and lithographs depict life in the Eastern Shore’s Black community in a way few painters of the time did.

MARYLAND CRAB PICKERS - 1933

HELL’S CROSSING - 1933

Of Dr. Paca’s growing collection, Miller recalls that “one piece led to another.” People showed up with items that had been stored away in their attics.

A painting discovered in the basement of the Academy Arts building in Easton has been restored and now hangs on a wall at the Water’s Edge Museum.

Like Ruth Starr Rose, Dr. Paca and her family attended church with their

African American neighbors. At Oxford’s Waters United Methodist Church, she met pianist Tessier Moaney. From the portraits she owned, Dr. Paca recognized the family name.

When she asked if Mrs. Moaney could identify them, she informed Dr. Paca that the subjects were her brother and sisters-in-law. Mrs. Moaney in turn put Dr. Paca in touch with Jeffrey Moaney, October 2021

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

27

Mrs. Moaney’s grandson and the family’s historian and genealogist. Through Dr. Paca’s relationship as a cousin to the current owners of Wye House, Jeffrey Moaney learned that the 1762 birth of ancestor Isaac Copper predates the country’s independence. “We found this history through each other.”

Although establishing a museum for her collection played no part in Dr. Paca’s plans, living in Oxford during COVID-19 provided the perfect opportunity. In February 2021 the Water’s Edge Museum opened to honor the families “who harnessed knowledge and power and placed it firmly in the hands of their descendants.” The works include portraits of the founding Black families painted by Rose and lithographs depicting their lives as sailmakers, farmers, musicians, and

FANNY E. COPPER - 1930 Rose’s shift to lithographs like this one marked an attempt to share her art with a larger audience.

watermen. Other walls display the themes of spirituality and military service, daily life and spirituality, the daily life of people of color on the Eastern Shore, and the folio—a collection of articles, letters, lithographs, and articles intended to supplement the exhibits.

As a descendant of the Moaney family, seeing their portraits along the museum’s north wall was both moving and inspirational to Mr. Moaney. “As humble as our start and emergence from enslavement was, what they were able to do in building a foundation for our family and other formerly enslaved gives me an immense feeling of pride.”

To further honor these ancestors, on July 4, 2021, exactly 249 years after the last documented intra-American

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slave ship docked at the port of Oxford, guests gathered at the Water’s Edge Museum to honor their memory. In attendance were Maryland First Lady Yumi Hogan, state government representatives, diplomatic representatives from the Republic of South Africa, Museum Board members, guests, and first family descendants.

Ann C. Cobb, executive director of the Middle Passage Ceremonies and Port Marker Project, said, “It is long overdue that we acknowledge their sacrifices and commemorate their lives. With ceremony and dedication, we open the door and ask them to join us today. The Middle Passage Ceremonies and Port Markers Project applauds the Town of Oxford for its commitment to truth telling, to justice, to healing as we become one nation… .”

As part of the ceremony of song and libation, a request was presented to the Native American community for permission to place the marker on

Jeffrey Moaney, the museum’s director of founding black family genealogy and histories, is also a founding family descendant.

designated land. Chief Wolf Mother of the Nause-Waiwash Band of Indians gave permission and offered blessings to the ancestors and to the site where the marker will stand. Brenda Moaney Henry, a descendant of the honored

first families, was presented with an original Ruth Starr Rose lithograph of her father as a baby. “This is what the 4th of July is really about,” stated one guest. “Reclaiming it for us as Black people as well. Acknowledging that the America we know and celebrate today could not have been possible without the work of our enslaved ancestors and their descendants.”

“The Museum will always be a safe space,” Annie Miller said. “Here the kids are free to say whatever they feel. We talk about race and we talk about disability. And even if they stay for only an hour, you can see the wheels turning. By the end of their time here we’re having open conversations.”

Young visitors sometimes see themselves at the Water’s Edge, especially when they discover that they too are descendants of the founding families, and declare it their favorite museum. “It’s an encouraging place where they can express themselves, be

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inspired, and learn how we got to where we are today, not with guilt but with understanding,” Henry added.

Bruce Glover, director of community initiatives and special education, says that along with the ability to draw on his years as an educator in that field, he is inspired by the museum’s sense of

beauty, spirituality, and the stories of the community. “It reminds me of scenes from my own childhood,” he reminisces with a smile. In the end, he says, “it proves that we’re all alike; we all are one.”

Looking ahead to the future, plans include a new museum in the nearby

community of Bellevue, as well as a proposal to make the Water’s Edge Museum a regional history field trip.

According to Henry, “the more we talk about it, the more we make it real. You shouldn’t learn any history before you learn where you’re from.”

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The Loon in Winter

A healthy Chesapeake has far-reaching effects.

by John Page Williams

Loons feed constantly throughout autumn to hold themselves over during their winter molt, when they cannot swim or fly.

some 50 years ago with Reedville’s legendary Wallace Lewis, a highline menhaden captain turned soft crabber and charter skipper. Captain Wallace had invited me to fish the open Bay and the mouth of the Potomac with some of his friends aboard his 42foot boat, Hiawatha. The plan was to look for gulls diving on baitfish and jig for the rockfish driving the bait to the surface.

As a much younger student of the Chesapeake, I was anxious to make a good impression, so I climbed up onto the flybridge with a pair of binoculars while everyone else clustered around the kerosene heater in the wheelhouse.

Sure enough, a flock appeared about

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S

ay “loon,” and people tend to think of coldwater lakes and ponds left behind across northern North America as the glaciers receded at the end of the last Ice Age. On waters like those, loon pairs in elegant, tuxedo-like blackand-white plumage mate and raise their young on floating nests of grasses and sedges at the edges of marshes. A family of four loons may eat 900 pounds of small fish like yellow perch over a breeding season. Thus, they separate from other loon pairs, spreading out their territories to ensure adequate food supply.

I got a very different picture of these birds one chilly late-fall afternoon

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 34

October 2021

halfway between Smith Point and Point Lookout. I bounded down the ladder with the information and Wallace shoved the big boat’s throttles forward. When we arrived, the gulls were still diving, and Hiawatha’s big commercial sounder showed both bait and apparent fish marks, but our jigs went untouched. Instead, what we saw was a group of 30-some streamlined gray, tan, and white birds diving continuously into the ball of young menhaden and driving them to the surface. They were loons, in their unfamiliar-looking winter plumage.

Ever the gentleman, Wallace thanked me for pointing out the gulls but said, “I was afraid they were diving on loons instead of rockfish.” We never found the rock that day, but we saw several more rafts of loons apparently resting after feeding.

In northern lakes of the United States and Canada, loons exploit an ecological niche: Since they are warm-blooded, their metabolisms operate at higher rates than the lakes’ cold-blooded fish, which are dependent on water temperature for body heat. Thus, they become effective underwater fishers. In addition, adult loons face few natural predators there.

However, they have had to adapt to winter, when the lakes are frozen.

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BILL PORTLOCK

They learned to migrate to ice-free coastal environments, molting many of their striking body feathers to turn gray-brown on the head and back with white throat and underbody.

Their presence along the Pacific, Gulf of Mexico, and Atlantic coasts begins this month, including on the Chesapeake. They come through here in the fall to feed on schools of “peanut” (young-of-the-year) and year-old menhaden, croakers, and spot that are leaving the Bay to winter along the coast and out on the continental shelf. During January and February, the loons go through a three-week molt to renew their flight feathers. They need to spend this flightless period close to ample stocks of fish.

For many years, ornithologists thought loons were monogamous, staying with the same mates year after year, but recent tagging studies show that males are instead “territoryfaithful.” They tend to winter closer

n Our Golde

A loon on the Chesapeake in its gray winter plummage.

to their home lakes, e.g., on the coast of New England, to get a springtime jump on rivals in reclaiming favored lake space. Their mates move further south, to the mid-Atlantic. “Our” loons appear to come from both interior New England and Ontario.

The loons are descended from ancient birds that left life on land tens of millions of years ago to become almost completely aquatic. Their bones grew nearly solid, to aid in diving.

Their feathers are dense and low in oil, which also helps in diving, as well as

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It sounds like loons should be able to walk upright like us—but no, they are almost helpless on land.

Instead, those strong legs and big feet drive them like fish underwater, aided by keen eyesight. They can dive as deep as 200 feet and stay down for more than a minute, but such effort is seldom energy efficient. That day in the mouth of the Potomac with Wallace Lewis, they were in 40 feet of water, but the baitfish were just under the surface. 

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The loons’ large feet support long runs over the surface to get aloft with relatively small but powerful wings that can propel a migrating loon to 70 miles per hour once up to speed.

Fall and winter feeding are just as important for the birds as summer, because they have to get through cold weather strong enough to migrate back north, mate, and rear young.

Thus, there are serious concerns today about their fall/winter food stocks in the Chesapeake and along the Maryland/Virginia/North Carolina coast—especially spot, croakers, and menhaden of their favored sizes.

At this year’s summer meeting of the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission, boards that oversee management of menhaden, spot, and croakers reviewed the status of their stocks. Although menhaden have rebounded somewhat and management now takes the fishes’ ecological roles into account in setting catch limits, the numbers of young fish summering in the Chesapeake are still worrisome. Meanwhile, there is real concern about both adult and juvenile spot and croakers, whose stocks have dropped low enough to trigger management changes that will reduce the harvest in the Atlantic states, along with discussion of further protective measures. Those low stocks affect loons as well as other birds such as ospreys and gannets, and fish including striped bass.

It may seem far-fetched that management of juvenile menhaden in the Chesapeake and croakers off the coast of North Carolina should be important to the iconic loons of New England lakes such as Squam and Winnipesaukee, but that’s the way our ecosystems work. In the meantime, keep an eye out this fall and winter for our loons. They are amazing.

CBM Editor-at-Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author, and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.

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October 2021

T

he outboard motor has come a long way. Once it was an optional, detachable accessory.

A hundred years ago, an outboard motor was a single-cylinder, smoky, two-stroke powerplant of single-digit horsepower with oil mixed into its gas at 1:10, driving a two-blade propeller. It was built to be easily portable, with an integral fuel tank holding maybe a quart and a screw-down clamp for attaching to the transom of a 12–14' rowboat (preferably with a safety line tied into the boat). Cruising speed would have been maybe five knots.

Range on the integral tank would have been maybe five nautical miles, which is why the skipper would carry a red, steel one-gallon tank of mixed gas and a funnel for on-the-water refills. On lakes, the outboard turned simple

rowboats into wide-ranging fishing craft and family excursion vessels.

Such rigs, of course, still serve people on lakes well today, though the vessel is likely to be an aluminum jon boat and the outboard is likely to be a small, clamp-on four-stroke or even an electric.

Fifty years ago, the outboard had become primary power, large enough to bolt onto the boat’s transom. An open center-console was a Spartan fishing machine, 17–24' long, with a semi-V hull (12–15 degree deadrise) and a self-bailing cockpit but minimal accommodations for comfort.

Electronics included a rotary flasher fishfinder and a citizen’s band radio. It might or might not have a helm chair or a seat in front of the console. Power would have been a single, somewhat

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less smoky three-or-four-cylinder two-stroke outboard of 60–125 horsepower with oil mixed into its gas at 1:50, wired to one or maybe (in top-of-the-line boats) two lead-acid batteries to drive running lights, the fishfinder, the radio, and the engine’s starter motor. It would have driven a three-blade, stainless-steel propeller, with mechanical cable steering, controlled by stainless-steel cables to throttle and shift. Its fuel tank would have held 24–55 gallons. Cruising speed would have been 15–22 knots.

Range would have been 100–125 nautical miles. These boats were seaworthy enough for coastal bays and nearshore ocean waters, and despite their lack of upholstery, people quickly realized their versatility for

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 42

October 2021

other uses. They remain popular and useful, especially if powered by modern four-stroke outboards.

Now consider Regulator’s new 37' center-console, introduced last February. It’s a serious bluewater boat, capable of long runs to offshore waters. Its three engines have become integral elements in a package as complex as any large, conventional sportfisherman. True to the breed, it’s still open all the way around, with a self-bailing cockpit. It runs on a 24-degree, prismatic deep-V hull designed, like all its Regulator sisters,

by Lou Codega with precisely sized and positioned strakes and chines. An engineered framework built into the corners of its console and its elevated three-across helm seat/tackle center

support a top that shades those seats, plus the double seat in the front of the console. An elevated second steering station built on the top structure is optional. Additional seating includes a flush-mounted sun bed with filler cushion and convertible, electrically articulated pedestal table in the bow, and a double, rear-facing “mezzanine” seat on the aft side of the tackle center.

The 37’s console holds an airconditioned cabin (83" headroom) with a double bunk, an enclosed head with electric toilet and holding tank, a shower with hot and cold water, a refrigerator, and a galley sink with microwave. Power comes from three linked 425-hp, 5.6-liter, direct-injected four-stroke V-8 Yamaha XTO Offshore outboards with digital electronic steering and controls (including a Helm Master EX joystick for maneuvering), set on an integrated transom bracket. A ZipWake interceptor system controls trim automatically while underway for maximum comfort and efficiency.

Although naturally aspirated (meaning they have no turbo- or supercharger), these big Yamahas are easily as sophisticated as the engines of modern, street-legal cars, SUVs, and pickup trucks.

As in those land vehicles, a digital cable wiring harness controls this Regulator. Therein hangs another tale.

The standard Garmin electronics package for the Regulator 37 includes a dual 22" GPSMAP 8622 Multi-Touch Widescreen Chartplotter/Sonar Displays (three 17" displays are optional), a VHF 215 AIS radio with 8' Antenna, a GMR 424 xHD2 4kW open-array radar, and an Airmar 1kW CHIRP transducer, all interfaced with a

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The pedestal table and optional electric grill make entertaining easy aboard.

Yamaha Helm Master EX digital autopilot. Seven marine batteries serve engine starting and house batteries for 12-volt circuits, including extensive lighting and a Fusion stereo system with four speakers. (An upgraded system with 10 speakers is optional.)

However, the 37 has a 110-volt system as well, driven by a standard Onan 9kW diesel generator. Many 37s will carry an optional 13.5 kW Onan to drive an optional air-conditioning system for the helm, an optional electric grill and refrigerator built into the large helm seat base, and, to be sure, an optional SeaKeeper 5 gyro stabilizer. The Onan and the SeaKeeper live in a large utility room under the cockpit sole with other plumbing and

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 44

October 2021

wiring. Lifting the mezzanine seat provides comfortable access.

This boat is obviously not your grandfather’s 1972 center-console, which relied on a handful of fused switches to control its few systems.

Fortunately and not accidentally, Regulator Marine employs a robust engineering staff of “gearheads and wirenuts” who love a challenge like making all of these systems work as seamlessly for an owner as a luxury automobile does. Working with Garmin and Yamaha gearheads and wirenuts, this team built a “Proprietary Regulator MyHelm Interface for Seamless and Intuitive Connectivity of Key Functions via Touchscreen, and Wireless Key Fob,” including an “Offshore Command Center with Digital Switching and Monitoring” built into the helm’s Garmin multi-function displays and Yamaha CL5 Multifunction touchscreen display. The MyHelm system makes getting the boat ready to go as easy as touching the key fob

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while walking down the dock to its slip. Although it controls many systems whose complexity can be daunting at first, MyHelm is so intuitive that a day on the water is often sufficient to break in a new skipper. In any case, the Garmin displays hold a complete owner’s manual and guide.

So if the Regulator 37 is truly a bluewater boat, what does that mean in terms of speed and range for this 19,000 pounder? In our sea trial, the boat (actually hull #1) loved cruising at 27–35 knots, with a top speed just under 50 knots. At those cruising speeds, range (assuming 90 percent of 507 gallons) is around 300 nautical miles. Lou Codega’s Regulator hulls are well proven as sea boats. Those gearheads and wirenuts share space with structural engineers who work closely with lamination and rigging crews to ensure that each hull reproduces Codega’s lines faithfully and comes together with the strength to withstand the crushing forces that the three big Yamahas, the SeaKeeper gyro, and big water seas can inflict on it together.

In the end, the Regulator 37 is a state-of-the-art outboard vessel that can fish hard and safely way offshore, but back at the dock, a good cleanup turns it into an inviting sunset social center for reliving an excellent day on the water. And while a boat like this may be larger than some Bay boaters need, the design, systems, and craftsmanship shown here have a history of making their way down to smaller versions that are just right for many of us here on the Chesapeake.

Aren’t we lucky?

Base price for a Regulator 37 is $749,995. A SeaKeeper 5 Gyro, 13.5 kW Onan generator, and 12 BTU air conditioning brings it to $829,780.

CBM Editor-at-Large, educator, guide, and author of three quintessential Chesapeake Bay books, John Page Williams was named a Maryland Admiral of the Bay in 2013.

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P roh ibition comes t o the C hesapea ke Bay

By Robert Gustafson On a moonless night in the Roaring Twenties, a motor launch with no running lights glided quietly through the marsh on Virginia’s lower Eastern Shore. It paused at a waterside clam-shucking house near Red Bank, a knot of half a dozen working-class homes along a mud-banked creek. On board was a cargo of 514 sacks of liquor in bottles. The sacks were stashed in the clam house and the boat disappeared into the marsh.

But a Coast Guard patrol had caught wind of the booze landing and was snooping around the village. Coast Guard agents found the booze and arrested four men who were later reported to “have noteworthy reputations for being extremely dangerous to handle.” The booze and the men were taken to Norfolk, facing federal charges.

This was Prohibition in the Chesapeake region.

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ALAMY

Barrels for illicit distillation near Waldorf, Md.

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Maryland Governor Albert Ritchie reportedly directed state police to turn a blind eye to speakeasies if they paid state taxes.

On January 17, 1920, the 18th Amendment to the Constitution went into effect, prohibiting the “manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors for beverage purposes.” The Volstead Act, or National Prohibition Act, was passed by Congress to provide a framework for enforcing the new amendment, and states began their own enforcement.

H.L. Mencken, The Sage of Baltimore, wrote in 1924, “Oppressive laws … simply make bootleggers.” He was right. Despite strenuous efforts by federal and most state law enforcement, Prohibition led to the cataclysmic

growth of organized crime in America, including bootlegging, rumrunning, and moonshining, and failed to prevent large-scale availability of booze.

Many believe that banning alcohol actually encouraged Americans to drink. Depression-era humorist Will Rogers joked, “During Prohibition, it was said tailors would ask customers what size pockets they wanted—pint or quart.”

Spurred on by the Anti-Saloon League and hatchet-wielding Carrie Nation, who once busted up a poolroom in the Eastern Shore railroad town of Parksley, the Commonwealth acted ahead of the federal law. In 1916, Virginia outlawed what evangelizing anti-booze crusader Reverend Billy Sunday called “God’s worst enemy and Hell’s best friend.”

Norfolk was one of the “wettest” locations in the state. Its 115 bars largely ignored the state ban on alcohol. But on the eve of national prohibition, as many as 15,000 triumphant teetotalers swarmed the city. At midnight, patrons at the packed bar at the Monticello Hotel

If the owls’ eyes were glowing steadily, tipplers would be disappointed, but if the The Owl Bar at Baltimore’s Belvedere Hotel 50

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eyes were blinking, booze was f lowing.

made toasts, drained their glasses, and smashed them on the bar floor. Out in the street, bar signs and billboards advertising booze were being torn down throughout the city.

Maryland, an avowed “wet” state, took the opposite attitude. It was the only state that never passed statewide laws to enforce prohibition.

Maryland Governor Albert Ritchie reportedly directed state police to turn a blind eye to speakeasies as long as they paid state taxes.

Many Baltimore and Annapolis speakeasies masqueraded as cigar stores, with a display case of cheap cheroots in the front room and a hopping booze joint in the back.

Nevertheless, Maryland speakeasies had to be creative to avoid the attention of federal agents. At the Owl Bar at the Belvedere Hotel on Chase Street in Baltimore, two owls hung over the cash registers. Thirsty visitors knew to look at the owl’s glass eyes. If the owls’ eyes were glowing steadily, tipplers would be disappointed, but if the eyes were blinking, booze was flowing.

The Owl Bar is still pouring drinks and is listed by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Several other Baltimore establishments have Prohibition provenance, including The Horse You Came In On Saloon and Penny Black, both in Fells Point. (For a taste of the era, turn to Chesapeake Cocktail on page 82.) he town at Rehoboth Beach, Del. was established as a Christian resort in 1873 and alcohol was banned. But within a few years the ban was lifted, and alcohol flowed until national prohibition kicked in in 1920. In 1929, the Women’s Christian Temperance Union erected a water fountain on the boardwalk to give parched beachgoers an alternative to beer and whiskey. The elaborate granite fountain still stands at the end of Rehoboth Street, just a few doors down from Whiskey Jack’s bar.

If most alcohol was banned during Prohibition, where did all the illegal hooch come from? Moonshiners and rumrunners.

Prohibition gave unprecedented encouragement to Maryland and Virginia

Bootlegging was even an open secret in the U.S. Capitol. Between 1920 and 1925, George Cassiday, known as “the Man in the Green Hat,” was the supplier of name-brand booze to legislators. Working out of an office in the basement of the Cannon House Office Building, he delivered booze to lawmakers “from 9 o’clock in the morning to well into the evening.” When the Capitol Police got wise and banned him from the House premises, he simply moved to the Senate

and continued to wet the whistles of legislators into the 1930s.

During Prohibition, it was said tailors would ask customers what size pockets they wanted—pint or quart.

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The marshes, creeks, bays, and tiny villages of the Delmarva peninsula were prime territory for landing booze supplied by the boats of “Rum Row.”

moonshiners as demand and prices spiked. They ramped up production and transported the liquor in fast cars and boats to local tipplers as well as customers in nearby cities.

Prohibition also put the Chesapeake Bay region at the center of the newly lucrative world of rumrunning. Smuggling foreign-made booze into the United States was largely organized and financed by criminal gangs based in large cities, sometimes with the help of local people.

The marshes, creeks, bays, and tiny villages of the Delmarva peninsula were prime territory for landing booze supplied by the boats of “Rum Row.” Rum Row was a rotating gallery of foreign ships that sat at sea just outside U.S. territorial waters from Boston to the North Carolina border.

These ships were laden with top-shelf booze and wines—Scotch whisky from Edinburgh and Glasgow, blended whiskey from Canada, 52

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Champagne and cognac from France, rum from Cuba. Rum Row welcomed any boat to tie up and pay cash for name-brand, contraband booze by the case. Crews of visiting boats were often given free samples, and captains left with extra bottles to ensure return business.

The trick was to get the booze from international waters where the Coast Guard had no jurisdiction into cocktail glasses in Baltimore, Philadelphia, D.C., and New York. Crime syndicates often pooled money and hired speedboats to carry hundreds or even thousands of cases at a time from Rum Row to shore. Local fishermen were sometimes paid to transport booze for gangsters, using their knowledge of the local waters to evade the Coast Guard and slip into local wharfs unnoticed.

Another daring strategy was to carry booze straight through the mouth of the Chesapeake, either in a mad dash on a fast boat or in a respectable-looking fishing boat or pleasure craft in the hopes of avoiding attention. Once safely past Coast Guard cruisers at the mouth of the Bay, smuggled booze could be off-loaded at an out-of-the-way creek or even brought directly to the docks at Norfolk, Baltimore, or D.C. Eric Mills, in Chesapeake Rumrunners of the Roaring Twenties, tells the tale of the Rum Row ship Istar, known as the “flagship of the rum fleet.” In the spring of 1923, the Istar, loaded with 33,000 cases of whisky from Glasgow, arrived at the mouth of the Chesapeake. The Shriner’s Convention was scheduled for Washington, D.C. The Coast Guard knew thousands of cases of booze would be flowing by car up the Delmarva Peninsula and by boat up the Chesapeake Bay to slake the thirst of the Fez-wearing delegates.

Speedboats carrying thousands of cases had already loaded up at the Istar and slipped into the Bay despite the Coast Guard’s efforts. The arrival of the Coast Guard cutter Apache, replete with machine guns and cannon, ultimately scared the Istar farther north, but not before an estimated 8,000 cases of Scotch made its way to the nation’s capital where Shriners were paying up to $120 for a case.

A. AUBREY BODINE. | BALTIMORE CITY LIFE MUSEUM COLLECTION

Drinking cider, in the only state that refused to enforce prohibition.

Prohibition was not all speakeasies, gangsters, fast boats, and shootouts. The new laws criminalized what had been a routine part of life along the Chesapeake Bay for centuries. Court records in Eastville, Va., the county seat of Northampton County, give a glimpse how hundreds of average people—white and Black, women and men—became enmeshed in the great national experiment to legislate morality.

On September 25, 1918, a young Mr. Chesler was arrested for bringing 19 pints of distilled liquor to Northampton County from New York.

The court records hint at Chesler’s defense. His lawyer unsuccessfully asked that the jury be instructed, “If you believe from the evidence that the defendant purchased the whiskey from New York at the request of his father for the purpose of using it in the treatment of the defendant’s sisters in sickness, you shall not impose a jail sentence if you find the defendant guilty.” Despite his ailing sisters, Chesler was fined $50 and sentenced to 30 days in jail.

But repeat offenders could get real time. In May 1922, a private detective from Norfolk named James Whidbee was working in Eastville,

(Maryland Center for History and Culture MC7171)

The trick was to get the booze from international waters where the Coast Guard had no jurisdiction into cocktail glasses in Baltimore, Philadelphia, D.C., and New York.

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Perhaps one of the most welcome impacts of Prohibition is the survival of the Maryland state reptile, the diamondback terrapin. Really!

Between the 1850s and Prohibition, the U.S. developed a love affair with turtle soup. By the 1910s, overharvesting left the terrapin on the verge of extinction. But sherry or Madeira wine are essential ingredients in turtle soup and they were no longer readily available after 1920. Terrapin soup fell off menus and the little reptile staged a minor comeback. Today, the diamondback terrapin is designated as “near threatened” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, largely due to climate change and sea level rise, but it still survives, partly through the reprieve granted by Prohibition.

investigating “vice and violations of the prohibition law.” Whidbee claimed he was sold “about a half-pint of corn liquor in a coco [sic] cola bottle” from George Satchell, a charge Satchell denied. However, it came out that Satchell had multiple previous convictions for selling illegal liquor. A jury found Satchell guilty and sent him to the state penitentiary for five years. The severity of the sentence for selling fewer than six shots of liquor evidently took into account the repeated nature of his violations.

Local police were also active in the community, trying to ferret out prohibition violations. On the 4th of July, 1928, Northampton Constable J.R. Belote executed a search warrant looking for illegal booze at the restaurant of Edward Bloxom in Eastville. The search yielded “one pickle jar containing one pint and one jug containing 3 quarts.” But the jury found Bloxom

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not guilty, perhaps unwilling to convict a respected local businessman for such a paltry violation.

Out-of-state rumrunners carrying booze from the ships of Rum Row were also in the sights of the local police. In October 1932, Mr. C.B. Cherrix was apprehended in an Oldsmobile full of booze displaying Maryland license plates.

Cherrix was prosecuted and his car was impounded and sold at auction, but it brought just $61. After deducting advertising for the sale, the Sheriff’s commission, storage, and court costs, there was just $7.95 left to transmit to the state’s Literary Fund, as required by state law.

There were dozens of arrests in Northampton County for operating illegal stills during Prohibition. In November 1929, a Justice of the Peace swore out a warrant for constables to search the buildings belonging to John Dryden and his wife Mary near Jamesville, not far from today’s YMCA Camp Silver Beach. Four lawmen descended on the Dryden’s property and found “one five-gallon keg whiskey, one gallon jug whiskey, and one 7 quart [keg] whiskey in the barn…One still made of copper capacity 20 gallons in home on said premises.” His indictment notes that Dryden was not a duly licensed druggist and had no permit to operate a still. He was sentenced to 90 days in jail and a fine of $50.

The Northampton County court records also chronicle frequent prosecutions for “driving under the influence of an intoxicating substance” during Prohibition. Under prohibition laws, the act of drinking alcohol was not itself punishable, but drinking and driving most absolutely was and occurred with regularity.

Ultimately, it became clear that the Volstead Act was unenforceable and that Prohibition had many unexpected consequences including runaway crime, high levels of alcohol consumption, and lost federal and state tax revenue. At 5:32 p.m. on December 5, 1933, national prohibition ended with the ratification of the 21st amendment.

Surprisingly, the 21st amendment did not end the federal government’s appetite for legislating morality by banning widely popular substances.

Passage of the “Marihuana Tax Act” in 1937

Robert “Gus” Gustafson lives on the Eastern Shore of Virginia by way of Chicago, Harvard University, and a career on Capitol Hill. In his spare time, he coaches the Broadwater track and field teams and cultivates heirloom vegetables and fruits from the Chesapeake region.

At 5:32 p.m. on December 5, 1933, national prohibition ended with the ratification of the 21st amendment.

Lifting a glass or two with friends, post-Prohibition.

(Maryland Center for History and Culture MC8277)

BALTIMORE CITY LIFE MUSEUM GLASS NEGATIVES COLLECTION

effectively made pot illegal across the United States. This latest experiment in prohibition appears to be grinding to an end as states and the federal government are relearning the lessons learned by our great-grandparents when they tried to enforce the only constitutional amendment that restricted rather than expanded American’s rights.

I’d like to extend sincere thanks to Traci L. Johnson, Clerk of Court in Northampton County, Va., and her outstanding staff of Lauren Brown, Susie Sample, and Connie Wilson, who provided invaluable assistance in researching this article.

Northampton County, Va. is home to the oldest continuous county court records in the United States, dating back to 1632.

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Diving into the Olympics of water tasting Story and photos by Van Smith

Berkeley Springs has been attracting water lovers for hundreds of years.

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here’s a spot in West Virginia, about eight miles upstream of the Potomac River on Warm Springs Run, where clear water emerges from mineral-laden ground year-round at 74 degrees, pooling in natural rock formations. The “terroir” of the spring water here—its earthly provenance, as it steeps over time in geophysical forces that impart placespecific qualities—has drawn people for ages: the Native Americans first, then frontier-conquering colonists such as George Washington, and henceforth all who have come to immerse themselves in Berkeley Springs, the cultural center born of these waters that calls itself America’s “first spa town.” For 31 years running, it also has attracted entrants, judges, and fans of a worldfamous event, the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting, whose winners earn the rights to label their bottled or municipal waters among the world’s best to drink.

What started in 1991 as a novel way to promote the town has become, as the event’s co-founder and producer Jill Klein Rone likes to say, “the largest and longest-running water tasting

in the world.” Entrants come not from familiar supermarket brands like Dasani or Fiji, but from water-producing locales that are striving for recognition in the $30-billion-and-growing global bottled water economy. In the world of distinctive “Adam’s ale” (a temperance-movement moniker for the only drink available to the biblical first man), this has become ground zero.

I first started frequenting the Berkeley Springs area in the years leading up to 2005, when I purchased a run-down cabin on a steep, overgrown acre by the nearby Cacapon River, believed to be the source of Berkeley Springs’ mineral water. My wife and I got married by that river, whose name is derived from a Shawnee word meaning “healing waters.” We lodged at the wedding suite at the Country Inn, the town’s centerpiece hotel, which hosts the annual water tasting. We live in Baltimore, raising two daughters, but one could say our “terroir” as a family has been forged by our experiences together down by the river and in town. And that includes the first time I was a judge at the water tasting, in February 2019, when the four of us stayed at a bed-and-breakfast and made the most of our two-night stay.

As I approached my first stint as a judge, I maintained a festive skepticism about the water tasting. I found it hard to believe that evaluating the taste of bottled waters could be a rational, sensible, systematic endeavor—surely, they’d be hard to tell apart from one another? Yet I was totally down to party with a globe-spanning

Tasting glassware is set up at the judges’ tables.

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The Cacapon River is the likely source for the warm springs that give Berkeley Springs its name. group of hydrophiles in a celebration of drinking water. After all, who am I to judge? That I might be worthy to evaluate the waters at the tasting seemed a stretch. I need reading glasses to assay water’s clarity; years of coffee and spirits (and tobacco, until I finally quit) have desensitized my olfactory and gustatory receptors; and my wants in water are rather pedestrian: clear, cool, and crisp, preferably with bubbles. To me, noting the character of a water’s “terroir” would more likely come down to sensing whether it had been conveyed via a garden hose than whether it emerged, say, through beds of complex minerals in the foothills of the Italian Alps.

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I kept my doubts to myself and surrendered to the judges’ training, overseen by the tasting’s water master, Arthur von Weisenberger, a California-based, Europe-trained bon vivant who’s been in the water-tasting business since the 1970s. We’d use a weighted ratings scale and attach numbers to six characteristics: appearance, odor, flavor, aftertaste, mouthfeel, and overall impression. The scores entered by the nine judges would then be tabulated, and the waters with the highest scores in each category—municipal water, bottled water, sparkling water, and purified water—would be the winners.

I proceeded to dutifully judge all the waters at that year’s tasting, and learned to my surprise that differences can be noted, and that some waters I actually did like better than others—and that buying the bottled waters that I ranked highest in the 2019 tasting would be an expensive undertaking, because they’re all from Tasmania. This detail convinced me that there really is something to this business of judging the taste of waters, since I’d blindly tasted scores and scores of waters from all over the world, and the ones I liked best turned out to be from the same tiny corner of the globe.

So I came back the next year, 2020, but not as a judge—instead, I came as a fan, and attended the water-related seminars that are always held the Friday afternoon before Saturday’s main event. Among the presenters this time were the tasting’s co-founder Jeanne Mozier, a cultural force for Berkeley Springs since she first arrived in 1975, who held forth the healing history of the warm spring waters; a professor from Frostburg State University, Jonathan Flood, who discussed chemical analyses he’d conducted of Greece’s ancient healing springs; and Scott Shipe, a Marylandbased water advocate who rang alarm bells over ubiquitous “forever chemicals” that are increasingly found in tap waters around the

Above: Drinking water expert and Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting perennial Bob Hidell ranks the waters at this year’s tasting in June. Below: A display of some of the entries. world. Clearly, having gained an official watertasting certificate for learning at von Weisenberger’s knee, I was becoming a certifiable water geek.

In late 2020, about the time I’d normally start making plans to attend the tasting in February, my Facebook feed (which includes plenty of Berkeley Springs fare) delivered tragic news: Mozier had passed away at 75 years old. Jill Klein Rone and her daughter, Jules Happy Rone, soldiered on without her, postponing the event until June. Weeks before, Rone reached out to ask if I’d be available again to join the eight other judges (all of them, as always, members of the media). I jumped at the opportunity.

First thing in the morning at the cabin on June 5, the day of the tasting, I got into a pair of swim trunks while the coffee was brewing, drank a cup, and then took a refill to drink while soaking in the Cacapon. It was a cloudless, windless morning, with sunlight slicing here and there through the shade of the steep mountainside forest. I finished with the coffee and kayaked upstream to Edes Fort, a majestic promontory of rock rising about a hundred feet above the river. I glided quietly back downstream, watching a mother duck teach her ducklings to scoot away into the partially submerged branches of downed trees on the riverbank.

After disembarking and drying off, I donned a coat and tie, hopped into the pickup truck, and headed east on Route 9 through the little railroad town of Great Cacapon and up to the Panorama Overlook. I pulled over to take a look. Laid out below was an idyllic peaked landscape spanning three states—West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania—cut through by the Potomac and Cacapon rivers.

Route 9 curved in hairpins through Cacapon Mountain for three more miles into Berkeley Springs.  October 2021

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Judges prepared for tasting. A blue star commemorates long-time tasting organizer Jeanne Mozier, who passed away last year.

As I pulled into town, I was suddenly beset with uncertainty, trying to recall my 2019 training as I thought to myself, “Did von Weisenberger say judges should take no coffee on tasting day?” The water master himself dispelled my spoiled-palate worries, when we judges met him for lunch at Tari’s Cafe, an upscale-casual dining institution in Berkeley Springs. I was relieved to be reminded that we’re only asked to abstain from coffee (or anything else that could alter our taste senses) for a few hours before serving as judges.

After lunch, we reconvened at the Country Inn’s Parkview Garden Room, a conference-andwedding space notable for the three living trees around which the room was built. Training took about an hour. It started with von Weisenberger explaining the two-step process of getting bottled water.

“Some water is rainfall and snow melt, some of it comes from geysers, some of it comes from springs and creeks—from geothermal sources like we have right here in Berkeley Springs, even icebergs,” he said, “so the origins of water is the first step. The second step is what that water goes through before it ends up in a bottle. Most of the time it goes into the ground. The terroir is what gives water its character—those minerals, those trace elements are coming from rock strata, and those may be imparted into the water over eons. Sometimes water surfaces after five, 10, 15 years; other times it might be thousands of years.” The result, he said, “is like a fingerprint.

No two natural waters are the same.”

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Recalling the skepticism I’d had before the 2019 water tasting, I asked von Weisenberger if it might be best to reward the waters that failed to alert my senses at all?

“You’re using all your senses,” von Weisenberger replied. “Your goal is not to find anything that’s distracting or disagreeable. You don’t want to have anything that’s not pleasant, and if you find something that you see or you smell that you like, then you give it the scores you want. But then when you get into flavors, aftertaste, mouthfeel—all those are things that your senses pick up that they like a lot, or not.”

The judging system von Weisenberger teaches is derived from the one he employed in a 1980 tasting of San Francisco-area tap waters undertaken by the San Francisco Chronicle. “I went around with a reporter, and we collected these waters,” he recalled, “and we brought them to the Fairmount Hotel, and we put together a panel of judges, overseen by a man named Professor William Bruvald,” a professor of public health at University of California, Berkeley, who had developed a water-tasting system for NASA to evaluate “the acceptability of minerals in water for astronauts, as far as taste goes, because they wanted to find out how much they had to purify recycled water for drinking.”

The judges at the 1980 event were recruited from water-related occupations. “They had a SCUBA diver, someone who worked at an aquarium shop, a guy who was selling waterbeds,” von Weisenberger said. “The point was, when you sort of focus in on water, it doesn’t matter what background you come from, those differences in taste stand out.”

At the Berkeley Springs event, the judging goes on for hours. Thanks to the pandemic, the number of entrants this year was less than the 100-plus seen the past, but 13 municipal waters, 13 sparkling waters, 39 spring waters, and six purified waters from 19 states, three Canadian provinces, and 14 foreign countries still added up. We entered our scores on tablets, but also

filled in paper forms in case of a technological malfunction. Every now and then, we nibbled on water crackers to replenish our palates.

The Parkview Garden Room was not as packed as it had been in prior years’ tastings, but the online viewership via a live Facebook feed added a new sense of worldwide interest in the event. For the first time, there was no “water rush” at the end of the event, when a display of hundreds of bottled waters is descended upon by the attending crowd, who are invited to grab as many cans and bottles as they can carry with them.

After all the tabulations, the 2021 winners were announced. Fuji no Tennensui Sarari from Japan’s Mt. Fuji won best bottled spring water; it is produced by Tokai Corporation, a Japanese company that has won numerous medals in past years. The top municipal water in the world went to Australia’s Rossarden, in Tasmania, while the U.S. winner was the Metropolitan Water District of Southern California, serving the Los Angeles region. Fleck Sparkling Mineral Water from New Zealand topped the list of bubbly waters, while the gold medal in purified waters went to Santa Barbara, Calif.’s Ophora Hyper-Oxygenated Water, which also won gold in 2018.

Worth mentioning among the purified winners, since it won the gold last year and is from the Chesapeake Bay watershed, is this year’s silver medalist: Waterfy Me of Gaithersburg, Md. My duties now complete, I bought a bourbon from the Country Inn’s bar and hobnobbed with some of the judges. In light of being fully vaccinated, I considered doing something I haven’t done since before the pandemic: going to check out some live music, in this case at the Berkeley Springs Brewing Company. (I changed my mind, old fogey that I am, and went back to the cabin to sleep under the stars instead.) But first, as a judge, I was permitted to select some bottled waters to take home.

I chose five, based on my personal preference for non-plastic packaging: Kariba Premium Spring Water from Ontario, Canada, in a resealable can; Antipodes Natural Artesian Water from New Zealand, in a clear bottle; The Mountain Valley Spring Water from Hot Springs, Arkansas, in a screw-top aluminum bottle; The WaterWell Purified Water from Hopkinsville, Kentucky, in a resealable swing-top bottle; and Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway

(which is melted from iceberg’s freshly calved off of glaciers), in a clear bottle with a gift box.

Armed with a collection of five waters from three continents, I went home to Baltimore and decided to try von Weisenberger’s water-rating system on my two daughters, aged nine and 11; two neighborhood kids, aged nine and 12; and two adults (my wife, and the father of the other two kids).

I designed and printed up the judging forms, held a training session to walk them through the particulars, and filled six glasses for each judge—one for each of the five waters, and a sixth filled with Baltimore tap water.

The winner? Antipodes by far, with Svalbaldi coming in second. Antipodes costs about $10 a bottle, and Svalbaldi can command $150 per bottle, so there’s something about these precious waters that earned them accolades in the first-ever “Butchers Hill Neighborhood Water Tasting.”

Baltimore tap tied for third with The WaterWell.

As von Weisenberger likes to say, “The consistency in winners from year to year with different panels of judges validates the choices” made by the water tastings. Even with kids as judges—because guess what? Antipodes won a gold medal at the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting in 2018. There’s definitely something to this water-tasting business.

Discernment and concentration abound as the judges try to detect and rank the qualities of drinking waters from around the world.

Van Smith, a Baltimore writer, has adopted “Judge Van Smith” as his moniker since receiving his water-tasting certification.

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Welcome Aboard!

Younger boaters, women, and new families join the Bay boating scene.

by Ann Levelle

I

t’s no surprise that in 2020, when being outdoors was the best way to spend our free time, people were itching to get out on the water.

Be it seasoned boaters who could cruise the Bay while working from home, kayakers and SUP enthusiasts able to take daily paddles instead of commuting, or folks brand new to boating altogether—the surge in boating at all levels over the past 18 months has been nothing short of historic.

During the summer of 2020, boats were flying off the shelves (so to speak), pushing boat dealers’ inventories down to sometimes nothing, and forcing new-boat production times to historically long waits. According to the National Marine Manufacturers Association

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(NMMA), more than 310,000 new powerboats were sold in 2020, an estimated 12 percent increase compared to 2019—both levels that the recreational boating industry has not seen since before the Great Recession in 2008.

Meet the New Crew

So, what could be better than an historic boat-buying boom? The fact that the new buyers are younger and ready to bring friends and family to boating as well. This is a source of excitement to the industry, where there has long been an aim to get younger people involved in boating.

According to Takemefishing.org, a national nonprofit that aims to get people (especially families) out on the water, this new generation of boat

buyers “participate for relaxation and family time; are highly social in person and online; are younger, more urban and more diverse; and bring their kids into the sport.”

The Maryland Department of Natural Resources reports that the number of registered boats for owners under 40 rose by just over 2,355 vessels, a 13 percent increase from 2019. Similarly, registrations for people under 50 rose by 4,300 vessels, an increase of 11 percent.

Meanwhile, numbers of registered boats to owners in the 50-to-65+ age ranges decreased in similar numbers over the past three years.

An even better one-up?

Women are often taking the lead.

According to NMMA, the number of first-time boat buyers reached

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KATY HAUKEBO

415,000 in 2020. These first-time buyers are 1.5 times more likely to be female than other groups, and are also younger on average.

Katy Haukebo is one of them.

Haukebo, 37, along with her husband and three kids, ages 6, 4 and 1, bought a new-to-them Chaparral 215 SSi last July. The couple, who recently moved from Baltimore to Edgewater, Md., had been talking about buying a boat since they met in 2006, but Haukebo says the tipping point was the pandemic. “We have three young boys who have always been outdoorsy, adventurous, active kids, and not being able to go anywhere or do anything made us all a little stir crazy. Being on the boat was a way for us to get out ... and feel like things were normal again.”

While Haukebo and her husband grew up boating on inland lakes, Katy Did is their first family boat, on which they like to cruise around and explore, “and hope to make some friends to raft up.” As for the boat’s name, says Haukebo, “we polled our friends on Facebook and this was one of the suggestions. We ultimately went with it because I did all the work of finding and researching the boat, marina, etc.”

The couple had to act fast when they found the right boat, Haukebo says. “We had already decided we

Above: The Haukebo family was looking for ways to beat pandemic boredom; Left: Katy Haukebo poses on her new boat, Katy Did

wanted a used boat with a little cabin so the kids could rest and nap out of the sun, and something that wasn’t so big that we wouldn’t be comfortable driving and docking it.”

Speaking of the Right Boat Other factors that help attract a younger crowd are that today’s boats are simpler to use, and access to information on boating skills and maintenance is a lot easier to come by. “You don’t have to be a yachtie to know how to operate [a boat],” says CBM publisher John Stefancik. These days, he adds, “you need to get some basic experience and maybe you take a class or two and you can just jump right in.”

Stefancik says that many new boats of all configurations come with

amenities once reserved for large cabin cruisers. They “have hot water, they’ve got running water, they’ve got air conditioning, they’ve got heat, they’ve got AC electrical and DC electrical.” Before, he chuckles, “if you wanted all that stuff, you had to have a 48-foot Carver.”

Mark Schulstad, owner of Pocket Yacht Company, which sells Ranger Tugs and Cutwater Boats, agrees. “It seems like some of the designs of boats have reached out a little bit to younger people—they want to fish and do water sports, whether it’s skiing, tubing, family activities, just being on the water overall.”

“Twenty, thirty years ago, I kept trading people up into these big motor yachts...then it got to the point where

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And from there, it’s a sea trial and showing them the proper way to trim the boat ... and then evolves into talking about tying up the boat properly, and all those sorts of things.”

Hitting the Clubs

people were downsizing all the time,” says Schulstad. Some people were aging and their bigger boats were too complex. But other buyers, after owning center-consoles and open boats, now have families and want to know, how many kids does this boat sleep? And how many heads? “I think they’re really discovering boating like it was in the past,” he says.

The New School Gets Schooled

Another shift in the boating market (albeit not just in the past year and a half) is the increase in learning opportunities available to both new and seasoned boaters. From boat show seminars to semester-long courses, and even minutes-long YouTube videos, novice boaters now have knowledge at the tips of their fingers, and aren’t afraid to use it.

“Our offices are here with our sister company, Annapolis School of Seamanship, and they have a line out the door of people who want to come in and learn about various subjects,” says Stefancik. “They’re not shy about saying, ‘Hey, I want to take a class.’

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The Haukebo children relax in the V-berth

And I think in the old days, well, nobody took a class.”

That’s to say nothing of looking on YouTube. Before you scoff, remember that nearly every manufacturer, dealer, boating magazine, club, or boating association you can think of has videos on YouTube, covering basic maintenance, boating news, boat reviews, you name it.

In addition to classes in person and online, dealers are here to help.

Whereas once you might have bought a boat and been handed the keys with a congratulatory handshake, now you can be given quite a bit of training. For buyers at Schulstad’s Pocket Yacht Company, “we offer up to three days of orientation,” he says, which can include “one day of kind of dockside, with all the systems and components and demonstration of all the equipment that is working properly.

For those who can’t afford a brandnew boat, or weren’t able to find the perfect used boat during the COVID boom, boating clubs have become increasingly popular. Freedom Boat Club, which has outlets around the country, including several locations in Maryland, Virginia, and D.C., saw the surge in membership firsthand. Since May 2019, Freedom memberships have grown by 61 percent across its 250 locations. Not to mention, the average Freedom Boat Club member is almost three years younger than the average Brunswick boat buyer.

(Brunswick acquired Freedom Boat Club in 2019.) And in 2020, women represented 35 percent of the membership base at Freedom.

For boating club members, getting out on the water is simple, and it eliminates the tedious parts of owning a boat, including maintenance and slip fees. But that’s not the only type of club hoping for a younger membership.

Yacht clubs around the Chesapeake are vying for younger members who will bring friends and family along with them, and are putting more emphasis on social activities along with racing and cruising.

Koralina McKenna, 33, has been a member of the Annapolis Yacht Club since 2018, just before the club opened

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its vast new facilities along the Annapolis waterfront. She and her husband James, 39, have been a part of the sailing scene since their early 20s, but were the first of their close friends to join AYC. “I felt like my husband and I sort of broke the seal with our friend group,” says McKenna. “We joined and since then I think we’ve had six of our close friends join. For about a year there was just us.” But now, she adds, “I feel confident that I’ll run into another young person that I know.”

The Annapolis Yacht Club has been quite successful in gaining new members under 35, which includes a

33-year-old McKenna enjoying the cruising life.

lot of families with young children. “So now the question is, ‘We have all these young people, and how do we get them to be involved?’ ” McKenna says. AYC now hosts family-friendly activities such as dive-in movie nights, an Opti Mom regatta for moms who sail dinghies, and plenty of other social activities for

kids and parents at the club’s new facilities, which include a Youth Club room, pool, and activity center in addition to its new sailing center.

But other young members are there to make sure it’s not just families represented on the young boating front.

AYC has a very active cruising fleet, says McKenna. “I’m on the committee specifically to represent people under 45 that don’t have children.” In addition to regular happy hours and cruises, she adds, “we started a lot of activities for day boats to come and hang out ... so they can still get home in the afternoon and sort of get that glimpse [of the cruising boat life].”

Here to Stay

PHOTOS COURTESY OF KORALINA MCKENNA

Between low lending rates, accessible learning opportunities, and a pandemic that urged people to an active outdoor lifestyle, new, younger boaters will likely continue to enter the boating world. And as younger folks often do, they will likely come up with new and exciting ways to share the sport. Publisher John Stefancik agrees.

“Boating is more accessible than ever,” he says. Let’s all hop on board and enjoy the ride.

Koralina McKenna and husband, James (standing, left) at anchor with young friends at an AYC Cruising Club Rendezvous.

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Editor-at-Large Ann Levelle lives in Annapolis with her family. They missed last year’s boat boom due to low inventory on the used boat scene, but are still enjoying their 13-foot Whaler and Optis for the kids.

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s the boating scene is reinvigorated up and down the Bay, you might be thinking it’s time to do some boat shopping of your

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BOATS NOT TO MISS

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Excess 11 Catamaran At 37 feet long, the Excess 11 from France is one of the smallest cruising catamarans capable of long passages.

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BOATS NOT TO MISS

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Tiara 38 LS Tiara has captured the spirit of luxury sport yachting in this 38-foot cruiser, with its U-shaped lounge in the stern that rotates to face fore or aft, an island-style outdoor galley in the cockpit, wrap-around seating in the bow that converts to a sun pad, a broad swim platform with teak decking, and an elegant cabin featuring a queen-sized berth and a full-sized head with a separate shower.

The cockpit can be protected by an optional retractable sunshade.

That’s just a sample of the luxury part of the “LS” designation. The “S” stands for “sport,” and that concept comes from the triple Mercury 300XL Verado V8 outboards that can propel the Tiara 38 LS at a top speed of 55 mph.

Yamaha power packages are also available. The helm station, protected by a solid, one-piece acrylic windshield and a hard top, features port and starboard companion seats with flip-up bolsters and the latest Garmin navigation package. Available from North Point Yacht Sales, northpointyachtsales.com.

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BOATS NOT TO MISS

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Sea Pro DLX 320 Deep-V Center-Console Sea Pro has poured all its Carolina boatbuilding heritage into this elegant 32-foot centerconsole, the largest of its fleet, with a flared bow, deep-V hull, and brawny 10' 4" beam.

Powered by twin Suzuki 350-hp 4-stroke V6 outboards, this boat goes from 0 to 25 mph in an impressive 6.93 seconds and clocked a max speed of 56.6 mph. Yamaha power packages are also available.

The serious offshore sportfishing attributes include a fiberglass hard top with a wraparound windshield, electronically adjustable captain and co-pilot chairs, Optimus EPS steering with a tiltable DLX wheel, and a generous-sized helm dash with plenty of room for Simrad nav screens. The leaning post features loads of tackle storage, a freshwater sink, and a tournament bait prep station. The large, open cockpit boast a port entry door and a GG Schmitt rear bench seat that folds away to clear the deck for action. Under the center console is a stand-up head with a porcelain toilet. Available from Tristate Marine, tristatemarine.com.

Boston Whaler Outrage 420 Anniversary Edition To celebrate the launch of the Outrage series of offshore sportfishermen, which debuted 50 years ago, Boston Whaler is touring the new 420 Anniversary Edition, featuring the world’s first V12 outboards. These triple 600-hp Mercury Verados deliver revolutionary propulsion with effortless joystick handling and enhanced fuel efficiency—and they’re color-coordinated with the boat’s hull side paint scheme. The black hardtop frame package lends the boat a sleeker profile.

The Frostbox refrigeration system keeps catches fresh or beverages cool in the hottest weather. The expansive bow provides lounge seating for six people. The 420’s upholstery has been updated with a more modern, sculptural style that includes textured ridges and stitching. Teak accents enhance the well-designed convertible helm and cockpit areas. The upholstered transom bench tucks away to expand the cockpit for more fish-fighting room. The spacious cabin with V-berth offers 7 feet of headroom and a separate head with an electric VacuFlush toilet and an enclosed shower. The Seakeeper Gyro Stabilization System reduces boat roll underway. Available from Chesapeake Whalertowne, whalertowne.com; and Chesapeake Boat Basin, chesapeakeboatbasin.com.

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True North 34 OE Traditional Downeast styling, excellent performance, and Catalina value make the True North 34 Outboard Express the perfect fit for anyone looking for a versatile cruiser to use on the Bay. Built on a hull designed to withstand the roughest conditions, this boat combines a sturdy exterior with a spacious cockpit and elegant accommodations. The twin 300-hp outboard design gives the cruiser shallow water capability, speed, and efficiency while allowing for year-round enjoyment.

The interior features an open-concept design which promotes great socializing, with the galley up in the pilothouse. A sliding roof top and opening cockpit windows keep the air fresh while protecting you from the elements when conditions are not so favorable. The modern helm has everything you need to navigate the open Bay or negotiate a tight marina with 360-degree visibility. Down below, you will enjoy comfortable rest in the island V-berth, and the enclosed head provides privacy suitable for long-distance cruising.

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Nimbus 405 Coupe Powered by optional twin Volvo Penta 740-hp inboards, this Swedish-built express cruiser can reach a top speed of about 20 mph. Innovative design features include a salon that’s offset from the centerline to provide a wide walkway along the starboard side, allowing easy access to the foredeck. A sliding glass door allows entry into the saloon, where there’s a U-shaped settee to port and a fully equipped galley station to starboard. The ceiling in the saloon has a large electric sliding glass window—essentially a big sunroof with integrated sun blinds, providing light and air on a sunny day.

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Hacker-Craft 27 In the 1930s, Hacker Boats, built in upstate New York, were dubbed “The Steinway of Runabouts,” and the legacy of preeminent naval architect John L. Hacker (1877–1961) lives on in the classic mahogany HackerCraft 27 runabout. The bright-finished V-bottom hull with its sleek 7-foot beam can reach a top speed of 48 mph, propelled by a 430-hp Ilmor MV8 Ocean Performance Series 6.2L engine.

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Grady-White Freedom 235 Dual Console Part family bow rider, part serious sportfisher, the new Freedom 235 provides both options with a soft, dry ride from Grady-White’s awardwinning SeaV2 deep-V hull design. Powered by a single Yamaha 300-hp four-stroke outboard, the boat can cruise at 27.9 mph at 3,200 rpm for a burn rate of 9.5 gph.

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BOATS NOT TO MISS

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Sportsman Open 302 Center-Console Sportsman’s all-fiberglass construction features a fullgrid stringer system to create an offshore hull designed for a safe, dry, and comfortable ride. Twin Yamaha 300hp V6 outboards can get the hull up on plane in just 5.5 seconds. The oversized hard-top protects the helm station with its adjustable flip-up captain’s chairs. The battery storage compartment is set inside the leaning post on the center line for even weight distribution.

Inside the console, there’s a standard freshwater electric porcelain toilet and a pull-out shower/sink combo.

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Princess V65 From the spacious sun pad and lounge in the bow to the hydraulic swim platform with the yacht tender in its own garage, this British-built yacht pushes all the buttons on the luxury cruising checklist. The master stateroom sits aft and occupies the entire 17-foot beam, as does the spacious en suite bathroom. The term “head” simply does not apply here. VIP guests stay in the cabin in the bow, with its own bath. There are two more guest cabins as well, one with bunk beds and the other with twin beds, and there is also a third bathroom.

The aft cockpit is arranged for elegant entertaining, with U-shaped seating and a retractable sunshade. In the saloon, there’s a large, well-appointed galley and a dinette, plus a lounge area with a lounge and wet bar. Windows all around and a broad retractable sunroof provide plenty of light and air. Powered by twin MAN V12 1400-hp diesels, the V65 runs smoothly at a top speed of 36 knots. Available from Bluewater Yacht Sales, bluewateryachtsales.com.

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any of today’s classic cocktails were developed in the gin joints and speakeasies that blossomed during Prohibition. Bartenders developed creative combinations and even more creative names to keep customers saying, “Joe sent me.”

In Baltimore, one of the top destinations for illegal booze was the Owl Bar, at the Belvedere Hotel. The hotel debuted at One East Chase Street on December 14, 1903, and its grand opening was the toast of the social season, drawing tycoons, politicians, socialites, gangsters and more.

The party continued (albeit behind closed doors) during Prohibition, thanks in no small part to the rumrunners who made their way up the Chesapeake Bay. Visit the Owl Bar today and you’ll find this poem embedded in stained glass along the back wall.

A wise old owl sat on an oak The more he saw the less he spoke The less he spoke the more he heard Why can’t we be more like that wise old bird?”



Bee’s Knees A Prohibition-era take on the gin sour, the honey may have been added to help hide the off-flavor of bathtub gin. Honey does not mix well with cold liquids, so for this cocktail, it’s best to prep a syrup in advance, or buy a premade one, available at most fine spirits stores.

INGREDIENTS 2 ounces gin ¾ ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed ½ ounce honey syrup (¼ cup honey dissolved in ¼ cup warm water and then chilled) Lemon twist Add all ingredients except the lemon twist to a shaker full of ice, then shake. Pour into a coupe glass and garnish with the twist.

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The Owl Bar today maintains a classic elegance.

Sidecar The sidecar was likely invented in France at the end of World War I, but it was popular in speakeasies in the U.S. during Prohibition. Brandy was most popular in the drink’s early days, but today you’ll find it more often made with cognac.

INGREDIENTS 1 ounce Cointreau or other quality triple sec ¾ ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed Lemon or orange twist Add ingredients (except the lemon or orange twist) to a shaker full of ice, then shake. Pour into a coupe glass and garnish with the twist.

October 2021

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE OWL BAR

2 ounces cognac or brandy

83

WILD CHESAPEAKE

Fishing the Rivahs

Secrets of the Rappahannock and Piankatank

by Chris D. Dollar

Joe Wright of Stafford, Va., catches a blue catfish while fishing off the end of the

WILL PARSON/CHESAPEAKE BAY PROGRAM

Port Royal Landing.

E

arly mornings often bring the promise of better afternoons, especially when salt-tinged breezes temper stifling summer humidity. Recently, I headed south to spend a long weekend exploring several tidewater creeks on Virginia’s western shore. The overall plan this summer was to fish as many tributaries of the lower Piankatank and Rappahannock rivers as possible, whether by skiff, kayak, or wet-wading the shoreline.

On that first foray I packed light, taking only two rods: my two-piece light tackle stick and an eight-weight St. Croix travel fly rod.

One morning, I eased into the tepid waters of Jackson Creek just after dawn. I tiptoed along the creek back, carefully stepping over orphaned oyster

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shells. Summertime wet wading is a magical thing.

My first half-dozen casts were as ugly as beach traffic. The next dozen were serviceable, and after that I found my rhythm, launching semi-graceful loops over the glassy surface. The foam topwater spit like a mini-hydrant, and just as I eyed a terrapin easing toward the far bank, breaking my concentration, a fish blew up on the fly.

I only caught a glimpse of the fish as it breached the creek’s surface, yet the tail slap rang in my ears, mockingly.

Speckled trout? Red drum? Rockfish? I couldn’t tell, but the game was afoot.

I quickly refocused, launched the fly again, and this time I didn’t miss the strike. A sporting tussle ensued, and when it was over, I called it a draw between myself and a beautifully

spotted puppy drum, letting my piscatorial friend swim away to live another day.

After the sun crested the tops of the loblolly pines, I tied on a chartreuse-over-white Deceiver infused with ample flash. In short order I felt a strike and then the joyful pulse up the fly line as a 19-inch rockfish headed for the open water. Time became irrelevant. Cast after cast, I felt confident I’d score again, imagining the imitation minnow dancing over the shelled bottom like a lost and lonely baitfish.

When the next strike came, it was hardly what I’d call bone-jarring— nothing like the fat-bellied gator trout pushing seven pounds I’d caught years back while gliding across the grass flats off Smith Island. Yet, for

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Spanish mackerel. These gamefish feed on the abundant prey that thrive here: small fishes including peanut bunker, minnows, and anchovies, all of which roam over grass beds and live oyster beds, and around the docks in the creeks where mean water depths are typically no deeper than six to eight feet.

Originating from the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Rappahannock River runs about 195 miles across the Piedmont and onward through the coastal plain to flow into the

Chesapeake Bay. It is a tributary steeped in history, from the indigenous peoples to the colonial era through the American Civil War. I was introduced to the Rappahannock two decades ago by Bill Portlock, one of the all-time great educators for the Chesapeake Bay Foundation, who retired last year.

On a crisp March day, we spotted dozens of bald eagles; snipe darting in and out of thick stands of wild rice; plus red-winged blackbirds, mallards, and Canada geese—just a few that made our birding list.

By comparison, the Piankatank River is very short (24.4 miles), sandwiched between the Rappahannock and York rivers.

Primarily a tidal river, its headwaters meet up with the mouth of Dragon Swamp, a delightful spot to explore and bird/nature watch.

The Rappahannock has benefited from many years of restoration and conservation efforts from many groups. Programs that protect riparian buffers from development, rehabilitate wetlands, and restore oyster reefs have

Rappahannock River Valley National

CHESAPEAKE BAY PROGRAM

Wildlife Refuge in Richmond County, Va.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 86

October 2021

BILLPORTLOCK

some inexplicable reason this fish was equally satisfying.

Once to hand, I unhooked the fly neatly pinned in the side of its mouth as the fish proudly displayed tiny fangs protruding from its upper jaw. I’d purposely left my phone on shore, thinking it might appease the fish gods. Seeing how the fish’s silvery, iridescent flanks and light green hues accentuated its gorgeous inky black spots in the early light, I questioned my choice.

This little creek at the lower end of what’s called the Middle Peninsula is emblematic of the tidal waters of the lower Piankatank and Rappahannock rivers. There is a robust mix of natural habitat—oyster reefs and grass beds— as well as ample man-made structure with clean water running through and over them. For any angler, these are waters that are too hard to resist. Kind of like my fly was to that 18-inch speck.

Spotted sea trout, red drum, and rockfish are commonly caught in both rivers. You’ll also encounter spot, white perch, kingfish, bluefish, and

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helped to reinvigorate wildlife habitat while reducing polluted runoff.

Similarly, oyster restoration projects carried out in the lower Piankatank are making a difference in both water quality and estuarine habitats. Those are perhaps the two key ingredients to good sport fishing. According to Virginia Marine Resources Commission experts, the Piankatank River has a unique flow, called a “trap estuary.” Basically, the water circulation from two or more gyres, upriver of Stove Point, creates circular patterns that keep many of the free-floating oyster larvae within the river. As a result, the recruitment of young oysters (called spatset) is much more concentrated than in many other Chesapeake rivers.

Capt. Chris Dollar is a fishing guide, tackle shop owner, and all-around Chesapeake outdoorsman with more than 25 years’ experience in avoiding office work.

Where & How to Fish the Rivers Here is a short list of spots. In Carter’s Creek alone, on the Rappahannock’s north shore, you could spend quite a bit of time fishing its arteries.

Continue fishing downstream to Mosquito Point, before you get to the mouth (Windmill and Sting points). On the Piankatank, Moore Creek to Fishing Bay and Stove Point are all worth casting, as is Jackson Creek.

Wherever you decide to fish, the first order of business is to find clear water, ideally moving current over, around, or near structure. If clarity is muddled, move on or eat a snack until the tide sweeps it clear. Approach your spot slowly, so as not to spook your quarry. Modern boats equipped with power poles will hold station, or many of us still use a mushroom-style anchor, carefully slipping it over the side, usually from midships or the stern.

I suggest flies and lures specifically designed to fish skinny waters, such as soft-plastic paddletails of three to five inches (D.O.A., BKDs, Z-Man, Bass Assassins). Have a selection of topwater poppers and swimming plugs, and small bucktails. Deceivers and Clousers are saltwater-proven flies, especially when tied in colors and shapes that resemble bay anchovies, menhaden, and silversides, the predominant baitfish in these waters.

Spin or conventional outfits with moderate power and fast action work just fine. Reels should have line rated from 10 to 15 pounds (lighter if you use braid). Fly rods in the seven- or eight-weight range are ideal.

Fishing these rivers should remain good throughout the fall. And if you do miss the sweet spot, there’s always next year.

chesapeakebaymagazine.com/boating

Dymer Creek Classic

WHITE STONE • NEWLY PRICED $935,000

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4-5’ MLW at Pier - Composite Decking 8,000 pound Boat Lift & Fish Cleaning Station Protected Cove just off the Chesapeake Bay 1.6 Acres - Potential Pool Area Wrap-around covered and screen porches

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2,630 SF - 4 bedroom areas/3.5 baths total 23’ living room with wood burning fireplace 1st floor ensuite bedroom & walk-in closet Freshly painted - new carpet upstairs Great location to towns, shops, dining

Wilton Creek Residence

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Introducing “Bay Breeze.” This completely remodeled, “like new” river home with southern exposure has all of the updated amenities you are looking for. This home has great outdoor living spaces to enjoy the water views and breezes off the bay with front and back porches, balconies and an inground pool. The pier boasts 7 ft.+ MLW. The attached garage offers great storage and small workshop. You can have it all.

$1,100,000

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This property offers privacy on a point of land in a coveted waterfront community. This is an impressive home with 22-foot ceilings, a wall of windows overlooking the water, superior construction, stunning foyer and more. Enjoy the outdoors from the in-ground pool or waterside deck. The pier has power, water and 8 ft MLW.

Over 4 acres on Tabbs Creek in Virginia’s Northern Neck with views out to the Chesapeake Bay. First offering of this custom-built home, designed by a local architect with water views from all the bedrooms and living areas, a modern open floor plan and a “crows nest” featuring gas log fireplace, balcony and bathroom. Pier with boat lift.

$759,000

Please visit our property websites to view interactive floor plans, aerials, maps and more!

$850,000

804.724.1587

www.BeverlyShultz.com

E X T R AO R D I N A RY 2 1 + AC R E WAT E R F R O N T E STAT E 40901 Mollies Way, Leonardtown, MD | Price: $2,995,000 View incredible sunsets from this magnificent 6,045 SQ. FT coastal residence and its gorgeous semi-detached building with collector’s garage and 948 SQ. FT 1BR-1BA ‘guest nest’, all just 90 minutes from DC and No VA. Authentic bluestone walkways, cement plank, shake, and natural stone siding, plus a standing seam copper cupola are just a few custom details. The home interior has generous spaces and natural light. There are the 10’ ceilings on the main level with coffering and chestnut timbers, and 9’ ceilings on the upper level. The kitchen cabinets by Pat Woodburn are high quality and packed full of features. Two islands in the custom kitchen (both with sinks) and the best in appliances plus propane cooking will support the finest of home cooks. You will love the convect cook with a wall oven and built-in microwave, the built-in refrigerator and freezer, two dishwashers, and an insta-hot tap. A home office area is nearby, and there is access to a screened porch and a large patio on the river. The primary suite is on the first floor river-side. This suite incorporates a separate den with many accessible features. The custom closets are not to be missed! The upper level provides three additional suites plus, a second living space, a large bonus room with built-ins for your in-home gym or media room. The ‘Guest Nest’ is a separate apartment over the detached garage with Potomac River views. There are two garages as well as a 20’ x 40’ outbuilding. Enjoy the 200’ private pier with 30 and 50 AMP shore power, and luxurious Brazilian Ipe decking. Using a remote, lower the 8,000 LB boat lift and board your boat for a quick run to multiple cocktail and dining destinations. The most discerning buyers will appreciate the expansive views, the construction, the privacy, and the level of care the owners have given to this beautiful Potomac River estate. VISIT SOON!

CHRIS McNELIS, Broker / REALTOR®

Office: 410.394.0990 Mobile: 410.610.4045 chris@mcnelisgroup.com McNelisGroup.com ©2021 A member of the franchise system of BHH Affiliates, LLC.

Solomons, MD | Dunkirk, MD

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E S TAT E S

Northern Neck Waterfront 2400’ of Shoreline on Lancaster Creek Sportsman’s Paradise 2325 Simonson Rd, Farnham, VA 22460, Price: $999,000 Northern Neck - 55 acre waterfront farm on Lancaster Creek.

Private setting western view of Rappahannock River, gorgeous sunset. 2400’ of waterfront, +/-19 acres farm land, +/-19 acres wooded. Hunt, fish, crab, oyster garden, boat, and swim on Virginia’s Rappahannock River. Brick and cedar siding house nestled in mature shade trees. Hardwood floors, exposed wood interior, fireplaces and lots of glass. Large utility room with outside entrances. Lots of storage. Walkout basement with interior stairs, workshop, metal barn (100X50), equipment building (40X30). Pier with electricity, water and 2 boat lifts.

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Private paradise right on the Chesapeake Bay. 20’ ceiling in the great room, 1200 sq ft newly remodeled primary suite, granite, sauna, steam shower & much more. Watch sunrises each morning from your own deck!

$895,000

taylor farms

Truly ONE OF A KIND home lacking nothing!! Seller has invested over 2.2 mil in home!! Heated pool, outdoor shower and bathroom, massive pool deck, covered patio, 3 car garage, whole house generator.

$695,000

$895,000

fords colony

New countertops, fixtures, refinished hardwood floors, brand new luxury vinyl flooring, new roof and updated bathrooms.

First floor primary bedroom and finished walk out basement. Almost 1 acre!

$535,000

Gloucester Waterfront

5 acres of privacy! Enjoy the sounds of nature from this 19th Century farmhouse with upgrades and improvements throughout.

Estate includes in ground pool and tennis court. Charming sunroom view!

HudGins

Brandon HeiGHts

This all-brick home is only one block from the James River! Classic style, modern amenities, accessibility considerations, outdoor living space, complete apartment above 3 car garage. A complete remodel!

$399,000

$500,000

Over 11 acres (4 cleared) for privacy or fun outdoor exploration! Only half a mile to the water, this home has a beautiful detached and attached garage, granite & live wood edge counters and a gorgeous sunroom!

Herons Walk

Private wild-life sanctuary-like setting on Moore’s Creek in Tabb. Minutes from almost everything, 3 acres of private wooded and waterfront property, navigable tidal water to Poquoson River and Chesapeake Bay.

Hartfield

Accented with Rock and Stone throughout, MASSIVE closets, and workmanship that will amaze you. Nestled inside 6 private acres that include a large pond full of fish with a new dock for a fisherman’s dream.

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DEEP WATER!!! Beautiful view of the Pagan River located next to Smithfield Station! The value is in the land! Property is being sold as-is/where-is.

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Greg Garrett

St. Mary’s County

Subdivision Potential

A rare opportunity to acquire a special property that dates back to 1634 and the original grant of Warehouse Farm by Cecil Calvert. Now known as the “Boothe Family Farm on Warehouse Point” Part of the first settlement in Maryland the third English settlement in North America. The elevated part of the farm affords a majestic overlook of the St. Mary’s River across Tippity Wichity Island to Historic St. Mary’s City and St. Mary’s College of Maryland. A waterfront farm consisting of 138 acres of land and 3,800 feet of shoreline with a legacy entitlement of 5 houses without any subdivision and up to 7 homes if subdivided. There are 7 new percolation sites already approved by the Health Department. The lower fields are planted to the shoreline and then follow a gentle rise uphill from the water to the upper fields and a panoramic view of the sunrise. It is improved by 3 existing modest houses, outbuildings/barns and a separate two story farmhouse abandoned some years ago but still standing. This could be a great wine property given the contour lines run North to South giving East/ West plant exposure. Perfect for a family compound or high end development. Come see what other distinguished Washingtonians have discovered, a private piece of history on a beautiful river that flows to Chesapeake Bay and a short drive of less than 65 miles from the Nation’s Capital. $3,000,000.

Dawn Wood

OBRIENREALTY.COM • 301.863.2400 22894 THREE NOTCH ROAD, CALIFORNIA, MD

LDAWNWOOD@GMAIL.COM 240.298.1244

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REEM MO OD DEELLIINNGG R

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EM MO OD DEELLIINNGG NEED ARRDOCK? E By “John August” Johnson Specializing

W

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Specializinginin Specializing WATER FRONT HOMES HOMES WATER -- FRONT

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first time, there is a lot to think about. For starters, you will need the approval of the county and state, and also the Army Corps of Engineers. lift, How will you be using your dock? Will you need a boat lift, Jet SkiR EM MO OD DEELLIINNGG RE and a guest slip, and how many of each? Will you be fishing and swimming R E M O D E L I N G REMODELIN G the dock or relaxing with friends? It’s important to make sure the from Specializinginin Specializing electricity you have to your dock is sufficient for all the items youWATER think you - FRONT HOMES Specializing in WATER Specializing need in plus a bit more. Many of my clients feel they don’t need dock lighting - FRONT HOMES WATER FRONT HOMES WATER - FRONT HOMES until a year later. They then also want a refrigerator for drinks and fish bait.

Both are great ideas, just plan carefully, as running both electricity and water to your dock is an expensive part of the total costs. Yes, I mentioned water too, as you need to keep the new boat clean.

The design is obviously important as you need to figure out how to make everything fit. Regulations will tell you just how big your dock can be based on your location. The challenge is to fit everything you want into that size.

One suggestion is toAbuild your dock higher than you think you need. This FIRM A DESIGN-BUILD DESIGN-BUILD FIRM has a great deal to do with your location and whether you are in a protected cove or exposed to severe weather and a lot of large boat wakes. Remember Providing COVID-19 Safe Practices Full allow Architectural Services that you need to not only for regular tides but also extreme tides for the Safety of our Clients Clear Communication from hurricanes. Waves love to pound the decking boards, and can destroy and our Staff a deck easily. Never underestimate the power of System water. That’s just good Proven Design to Construction advice from someone Extraordinary who has been onCraftsmanship the water for about 50 years now.

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With offices in Washington, California, Florida, Maryland, Canada & the Philippines

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NEW 2022 Nimubs 405C Contact us for a showing! 410-397-7323.

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The Nimbus 405 Coupe is the flagship model for the Nimbus line and it’s easy to see why from first glance. The lines are sleek and beautiful, the boat glides through the water effortlessly. Since 1969 NIMBUS has sold more than 4,000 boats worldwide, which has allowed the Scandinavian factory to evolve the design and performance of their models. That knowledge and experience has been poured into the Nimbus 405 Coupe to create a boat perfect for the owner that loves to spend their day on the water, or weeks at a time. For more information or a private showing of this boat please call our Annapolis location at 410.397.7323.

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65’ 2019 Regency P65 .....................................$2,895,000 60’ 2022 Jeanneau Yachts 60 - September ......... CALL 54’ 2004 Symbol 54 Pilothouse ....................... $450,000 54’ 2015 Riviera - Belize 54 DayBridge ......$1,099,000 51’ 1986 Antigua 51 ............................................ $130,000 51’ 1983 Wasa Atlantic 51 ...................................$57,000 50’ 2004 Viking Princess V50 FLY ................... $350,000 50’ 2014 Jeanneau 509 ...................................... $390,000 50’ 1988 Transworld - Fantail 50 .................... $240,000 49’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 490-147 In Stock ............. CALL 49’ 2020 Jeanneau SO 490 - HAYETTE .......... $525,000 45 2022 Tartan 455 - New Model .......................... CALL 45’ 1983 Bristol 45.5 ............................................ $150,000 44’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 440-321 In Stock ............. CALL 44’ 2004 Tartan 4400 - FL ................................. $335,900 44’ 1993 Pacific Seacraft 44 ............................. $199,000 44’ 1987 C&C 44 C/B ..............................................$79,000 43’ 2008 Tartan 4300 - MD ....................................... CALL 43’ 2005 Jeanneau 43DS ................................... $183,000

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37’ 2005 Beneteau 373 ...................................... $105,000 37’ 2000 TARTAN 3700 - LIBERTY ................... $159,000 37’ 1998 Searay Sundancer 370 ........................$94,900 37’ 2004 Jeanneau SO 37 ................................. $110,000 37’ 2010 Tartan 3700 ccr - VENTURE ............. $259,000 36’ 1979 PEARSON 365 Ketch ............................$44,000 36’ 2006 Hunter 36 .................................................$87,500 36’ 2022 Tartan 365 - SPRING 2022 ........................ CALL 35’ 1986 Baltic 35 ....................................................$59,500 34’ 1990 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ...............$86,000 34’ 2022 Jeanneau SO 349-780 In Stock ............ CALL 34’ 1994 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ............ $110,000 31’ 1986 Island Packet 31 .....................................$59,500 31’ 2007 Pacific Seacraft 31 ............................. $148,500 29’ 2022 NImbus T9 ..................................................... CALL 28’ 2014 Searay 280 SunDeck ............................$69,500 26’ 2019 Fantail 26 .................................................$99,900 26’ 2000 Grady White 26 Powercat ...................$49,000 22’ 1998 Sam L Morse Cutter .............................$45,000

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SELLING A BOAT SELLING A BOAT SELLING A BOAT SELLING A BOAT At Yacht Brokers of Annapolis we

OUR MISSION

Our expert brokers always: Our expert brokers always: O u rl i es txepne rtto byrooukre rnse ae ldwsa y s : listen to your needs listen to your needs listen to your needs lwi sotrekn wt o hy oy yuo oru u ntteo oee edv vsa a ll u ua a tt e e w o r k w ii tt h w o r k w i t h y o u t o e valuate y o u r o p t i o n s y o u r o p t i o n s work wi h you to evaluate w yo y oour rk owpi t iho n s u to evaluate your options y o u r o p t i o n he e ll p p y yo ou u n na a sv v ii g ga a tt e e tt h he e b bu uy y ii n ng g h h e l p y o u n vigate the buying pe ol pc ce eyssossu n a p rr o h avigate the buying h pe r ol pc eysosu n a v i g a t e t h e b u y i n g process p raokcee sbsu y i n g a b o a t f u n a n d m make buying a boat fun and e bu g a boat fun and sm rr e s tt a ek ey eii n m arr e kssess bff u ye ng a boat fun and smt ar ekses bf u r eyei n g a b o a t f u n a n d stress free stress free

Customer satisfaction is our highest priority.

We pride ourselves on providing the best customer experience through our expertise of the market, the area and superior customer service.

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Whether you're buying or selling, we put YOU first.

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BUYING A BOAT Our expert brokers always: listen to your needs

What’s in the name YaZu?

work with you to evaluate your options help you navigate the process

At Yacht Brokers of Annapolis we Au t Y a ceh ta Bvra o keettry s oofff ttAo nonll ssa ptt o o lhi se wpe Aut ttYii llaii zzce h ta Bv raorrkii e e rys o o f Aono n a poo lh i se llwp e AyutotYiulai zsceehltal B r o k e r s o f A n n a p o l i s v a r i e t y o f t o o l s t o h e l yvo oau ur i eb bto oya aott fq qtu uoiioc c lk ksll y yt oa a tth tteo olwp pe yuot iul i zs e lal y p ebtoylal a o f . tuoioc lksl yt oa th teol p yuot iul i zs e lal yvoaur id oolal att rrq y o u s e l l y o u dbo q. u i c k l y a t t o p y o u s e l l y o u dboolal at rq. u i c k l y a t t o p dollar. dollar.

At Yacht Brokers of Annapolis we live by one simple rule.

SELLING A BOAT At Yacht Brokers of Annapolis we utilize a variety of tools to help you sell you boat quickly at top dollar.

YaZu is derived from ‘Yankee Zulu.’ It speaks to our South African all us today to find out how we roots – and our Adopted USA. YaZu has rhythm andCcadence, buying c n help to best position YOUR it is strong and bold, like a boat on the water, like the asounds b o a t t o s e l l i n t o d a y ' s ANNE m a r k& e tJON !

HUTCHINGS of hundreds of feet dancing in the dirt.

Owners, Brokers Since 2005

make buying a boat fun and stress free

410.206.2755

SELLING YOUR BOAT?

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SOL

YachtBrokersofAnnapolis.com

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Then go with the 3 ’s:

Local Broker… Who knows boats; has seen your boat; shows your boat promptly Listing… Look at the quality of your broker’s

D

SOL

Grand Banks 46

Edgewater 370

Hatteras 58

Seahorse 52

listings. Will they do the best for you and your boat?

reLationship… Find someone knowledgeable that you feel comfortable with.

#UseALocalYachtBroker Anne Hutchings 804-567-0092 anne@yazuyachting.com

Jon Hutchings 804-567-0093 jon@yazuyachting.com

Bob Hoefer 804-776-5135 bob@yazuyachting.com

17218 General Puller Hwy, Deltaville, VA www.yazuyachting.com

Thinking of buying a yacht or boat?

Your best online search option is

CurtisStokes.net

Worldwide Yacht Sales | Yacht Charters | New Yacht Construction 1.855.266.5676 | 410.919.4900 | info@curtisstokes.net

chesapeakebaymagazine.com/boating

WHY SELL

N W?

Turn Key

Inventory is still low, so you can get the most money for your used boat

The weather is still right to get quality photos and video of your boat on the water.

High-quality photos are crucial to boats getting sold.

AVOID PAYING WINTER STORAGE AND WINTERIZATION FEES

$169,900 1930 48’ Dawn Corp. Commuter Location: Oak Harbor, WA

Contact us today to learn how our marketing strategy gets your boat in front of the right people.

$79,900 1978 34’ Kaiser Gale Force 410.263.9288 | intrinsicyacht.com

$120,000 CBMM CHARITY BOAT DONATION PROGRAM

1990 65’ Macgregor

$59,900

$24,900 2002 19’ Holby Pilot

$19,900

1985 36’ Cape Dory Cutter 1981 28’ Parkins-Herreshoff

$129,900 1999 Robinhood 36

$34,900 1980 34’ Kaiser Gale Force

7% DIRECT SALE 8% COMPLIMENTARY

Get a free evaluation Have our trained professionals evaluate your boat for donation

410-745-4992 | cbmm.org/boatdonation

Secure dockage in Annapolis for power or sail Personalized, concierge services Targeted marketing campaigns (print & digital) Wide-angle, high-res photos & drone video Yachtworld.com MLS exposure

IN BUSINESS FOR 30 YEARS! NO HEADACHES

TAX DEDUCTIBLE

SUPPORT A GOOD CAUSE

Selling a boat can be costly and time consuming

Your donation qualifies for an itemized deduction*

Proceeds benefit CBMM educational programming

*Consult a tax professional

443-223-7864 Email us your boat details for a free assessment. john@yachtview.com

443.223.7864 YACHTVIEW.COM

STERN LINES

Out Standing

There were cheers all around in Cape Charles, Va. this fall when Nicole Stimpson, 43, of Severna Park, Md. became the first woman to traverse the length of the Chesapeake Bay by stand-up paddleboard. She achieved the feat during the 2021 Bay Paddle (of which CBM is media sponsor), a relay to support oyster recovery and the campaign to make the Bay a National Recreation Area. Stimpson braved the 200-mile eight-day route solo—and better yet, she did it on the all-wood Kaholo 14 she built herself from a Chesapeake Light Craft kit. Capping her final 40-mile day, Stimpson brandished a Wonder Woman flag just after she crossed the finish line.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 104

October 2021

Worth the Wait The world never stops turning – and her infinite wonders remain. Now is the time to leave all your worries on the dock, let Mother Nature dazzle you with her beauty once more, and discover a truly unforgettable vacation on the water…

VACATION WITH US AT MOORINGS.COM/CBM | 800.669.6529

1000 Rowland Dr, Port Deposit, MD 21904 (410) 378-3343 www.tomeslandingmarina.com