Best of the Bay 2020

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The greatest everything of 2020.

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Volume 50

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contents

CBM

Best of the Bay 2020 Volume 50 Number 8

Milky Way over Blackwater

by Sharon Lee See the winning shots from our annual photo contest throughout this issue.

On the Cover: Photo by Simon Migaj Illustrations by Patrick Loughrey

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Who’s got the best crab cake? The most congenial barkeep? Where can you get the best oyster stew, cream of crab, or burger? Our readers know.

24

Whether you need a place to keep, fix, or aim your boat, readers around the Bay have the inside scoop on the best places, and people.

40

Live pleasantly in the land of pleasant living, with tips for the greatest sights, sounds, getaways, and charming towns of the Chesapeake.

Best of the Bay 2020

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CBM

from the editor

Celebrating the Good Things

by Meg Walburn Viviano

I

t’s been a tumultuous year. There has been no shortage of debate in 2020, and much of it has been over matters of life or death. There are no real winners in a pandemic. Now that the sun is finally setting on this unprecedented year, let’s take a break from the weighty issues facing our families. Let’s debate something more fun.

If you’re reading this magazine, my gut says you care about the Chesapeake Bay—that’s common ground on which we can all stand. But why are you drawn to it? What are the best parts about living, working, and playing in our unique region? That’s a question with a myriad of answers, and plenty of passion behind them.

In our annual Best of the Bay issue, we let you decide on long-running points of contention like, “What’s the best crab soup on the Chesapeake?” A true connoisseur would say there are three distinct categories of crab soup, and it would be imprudent to lump Maryland crab, cream of crab, and shecrab soups into just one category. So of course, we list all three. (If I were eligible to vote, I’d make my argument for a certain Eastern Shore bowl of cream of crab, served with

giant lumps of crabmeat and a tiny carafe of sherry on the side.)

Other titles are even tougher to debate. “Most Charming Chesapeake Town…” Sheesh, aren’t they all? Because the Chesapeake region is large (11,684 miles of shoreline, to be exact), we felt it fair to recognize winners in both Maryland and Virginia for this year’s Boating, Living, and Food categories.

We hope that you’ll consider these Best of the Bay awards not just points of pride for the people, businesses, and locales named winners. We hope you’ll use the winners as a guide to inspire future adventures on and around the Bay. Who better than your fellow readers, who hail from all pockets of the Chesapeake, to introduce you to a new favorite?

We heartily congratulate all of this year’s winners; they reflect your strong opinions about the Bay’s many “best parts.” With 2020 finally ending, we feel the Best of the Bay is yet to come.

Meg Walburn Viviano leads all of CBM’s media content, and lives with her husband and two young sons near the Baltimore waterfront. You can reach her at meg@chesapeakebaymagazine.com.

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Perfect Pairing

by Sawyer Cornelius

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Best of the Bay 2020

O

writer and have learned the ne of my earliest food hard way, multiple times, that memories is of crabs, nothing tastes like a real, no-filler, from one summer in Solomons Maryland-meat crabcake. Even if the Island. My family had rented a house chef says it’s the real deal (and they for a week; I must have been 7 or 8. One

by Susan Moynihan have, too many times to count), it’s afternoon, my brothers took me down to usually not; a crabcake away never tastes as good the pier and taught me the art of chicken necking.

The blues were biting and I happily scooped them up as the ones found in my home state.

The other great thing about food is it gives you in my net, seeking out the big guys and throwing the smaller ones back into the water to grow for another reason to explore. Be it driving out of my way to lunch season. They were ugly in a cute way, with their on a favorite waterfront deck, taking a day to sample wiggling whiskers and pinching claws. When we’d sips at a local vineyard, or devoting a weekend to filled the basket, my brothers carried it home and I slurping up oysters in Virginia’s Northern Neck, food trotted happily behind, thinking up names for all my gives me a reason to get out of my house and get out of new pets. When we entered the kitchen, I asked my my routine, whether I’m revisiting an old favorite or mom why she had a pot of beer boiling on the stove, checking out something new. And those excursions and quickly learned the truth. A few tears later, we all lead to new memories, which layer onto the flavor of gathered around the table and I learned how to crack bygone meals. Any time I eat steamed crabs, be it in my first crab. The tasty results put all ideas of my own backyard or at a classic, wood-paneled crabhouse somewhere deep in the Eastern Shore, I’m crustacean pets out of my mind.

Food works that way. It’s not just about the reminded of feasts past, and of that little girl who ingredients, technique, and flavor. It’s about memories wanted a crab for a pet—and the meal becomes that and emotions, and in the case of the Bay, the taste of much sweeter.

These winners represent the most beloved food home. My first raw oyster was a Virginia bivalve, eaten with my dad at Westminster Hall in Baltimore after we memories of our readers and contributors. I hope they paid our respects to Edgar Allen Poe. Summers were inspire you to get out and make some tasty new food (and are still) all about sweet corn, the paler the better. memories of your own.

Note: Few industries have been impacted by Clam strips mean Ocean City and Senior Week.

She-crab soup is the perfect remedy after a chilly day COVID more than restaurants. Many are using social media to get news out quickly on everything from on the water.

And crabcakes—done the right way, mind you— updated hours to daily specials, so check Facebook mean Annapolis. I’ve traveled the world for years as a and Instagram (or give them a call) before you go.

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BEST RESTAURANT Dredge, Irvington, Va.

Best Restaurant MARYLAND The Kitchen at the Imperial, Chestertown Count on a fresh take on regional ingredients (think baconwrapped trout or crab-andsmoked-ham mac and cheese), paired with stellar, unstuffy service at this repeat winner, tucked in a century-old hotel.

Don’t let their name fool you; it’s about more than awardwinning beef here. There’s an oyster bar, full sushi menu, crave-worthy entrees like shrimp gnocchi and scallops frites, and a new fish preparation featured each week on the Chef’s menu.

Best Seafood Restaurant

Best Oyster Bar

FRED + ELLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY

VIRGINIA Dredge, Irvington Chef/owner Bryan Byrd brings international flavor to the creative menu at this twoyear-old eatery, where sakesteamed clams, roasted Cuban pork, Viet-Cajun-style pho and oyster tacos live side by side in tasteful harmony.

VIRGINIA Hole in the Wall Waterfront Grill, Gwynns Island The menu is just what you want on a waterfront deck: fresh fish, straight from the boat and served grilled or fried; low-filler crabcakes with a side of shrimp; oyster po-boys with siracha mayo; and creative daily specials such as jerk scallops over red-pepper rice.

MARYLAND Steak and Main,

MARYLAND Sailor Bar,

North East

Annapolis

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Best of the Bay 2020

You’ll always find Maryland and Virginia represented at this outstanding raw bar, alongside East and West Coast contenders, and served with cocktail and hot sauce, plus a vibrant mignonette.

Round out your meal with ever-changing slate of whimsical toasts and specials, finished in a toaster oven or with a torch— the extent of their kitchen. Bonus: All shells go to ORP for recycling.

VIRGINIA Merroir, a Tasting Room, Topping Rappahannock Oyster Co. sold their bivalves to top chefs around the world before opening this game-changing restaurant in 2011. Their ethos is the same 10 years later: Olde Salts or Rappahannocks raw or roasted, and small plates that let the ingredients speak for themselves.

Best Burger Joint MARYLAND Chad’s, Edgewater They dropped the word BBQ from their original name because there’s so much more to enjoy, like their smoked burger featuring Creekstone Farms Black Angus beef, roasted garlic mayo and house-made bacon jam. Pair it with smoked wings or ribs drenched in honey-jalapeno sauce for the best of both worlds.

And come early; they close at 8 pm.

VIRGINIA NN Burgers, Tappahannock and Kilmarnock Get your wood-grilled burger (double patty, Wagyu, or plant-based) topped with Danish bleu, flash-fried onion sticks, sriracha aioli, or a host of other toppings at this cult favorite, with

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Easton • Oxford • St. Michaels • Tilghman Island • Trappe Talbot County is home to some of the most beautiful and historic small towns in America. Explore our culinary treasures, one-of-a-kind boutiques and elegant inns. Or bike, kayak and sail the Chesapeake Bay. Plan your escape today!

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Catch of the Day

by Jill Hudson

14

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Best of the Bay 2020

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The Portland, Maine-based company can find virtually any navigational map and handcraft it onto jewelry, home goods and more, creating a one-of-a-kind piece that tells your story.

Choose from jewelry such as necklaces, earrings, rings or bracelets featuring the navigational map special to you or your loved one.

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Every piece is handmade, from design to polishing and packaging. And the company can further customize your choice with an engraving.

“One of our customers raised his daughters in a home on Round Bay in the Severn River,” says Mike Nicholas of Chart Metalworks. “When his girls were very young, he commissioned bracelets for them with navigational maps of Round Bay to always remember their time on the water. When they grew a little older, he came back and had us create necklaces for them.”

Once you’ve selected your custom navigational map and the item you’d like Chart Metalworks to apply the map to, you’ll receive a digital proof of the piece within 1-2 business days.

“There’s not much we can’t create,” Nicholas says. “If you don’t see online what you’d like, contact us. We’ll use your imagination as our guide.”

Memories created by you. Captured by us.

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JODY’S PICK Best Out-of-the-Way Historical Restaurants with Water Views and Great Local Seafood FIRST PLACE The Wellwood, Charlestown, Md. I’m not actually choosing best and almost-best here. Rather, the order is based entirely on geographic location going north to south. So, nobody take offense. That said, the Wellwood is possibly the most interesting, if not the oldest, on my list. It began life in the 1800s as the Wellwood Club, an organization established to cultivate happiness among its members. Late in the century, it expanded to include a duck pond and dormitory (among other things) and became the Wellwood Yacht & Country Club. Among the Wellwood’s habituées were Theodore Roosevelt and Calvin Coolidge. In the 1950s, the Wellwood was purchased by the Metz family, who own it still.

Now in addition to the restaurant, it includes the River Shack, where crabs are king, and docks for visiting boats. You could say they are still concentrating on happiness. This year, the Wellwood is open for inside and outside dining and the River Shack is to-go only.

SECOND PLACE The Kitty Knight House, Georgetown, Md. Georgetown, up the Sassafras River, is not exactly out of the way. But the reason I wanted to put it here is that the Kitty Knight House, which has been a popular dining spot for decades, closed several years ago and has only recently (and very happily) reopened under new owner Sueann Hall.

I will not go into the whole story about Kitty Knight saving some houses and a church from the wicked Admiral Cockburn during the War of 1812, but rather leave it to you to discover, preferably as you sit out on the porch overlooking the Sassafras, sipping a nice oaky Chardonnay while waiting for your fresh rockfish imperial to arrive.

The Kitty Knight House does not have its own docks, but you can find dockage within walking distance at several nearby marinas.

THIRD PLACE Suicide Bridge Restaurant, Secretary, Md. I don’t know how this happened, but apparently things from the 1950s now fall into the historical category. Which is handy because that’s when the Suicide Bridge Restaurant was established. It was just a tiny little place until Dale Nickerson, owner of Kool Ice & Seafood Co. in Cambridge, bought it in 1983. Now it has seating for 400 (pre-COVID-19) diners inside, an outdoor event pavilion, and two stern-wheel riverboats, which you can take from their Cabin Creek berth for a three-hour cruise on the Choptank River. The restaurant has docks for those of us with regular-sized boats, though those with deeper draft may want to anchor out and dinghy in.

two locations in the Northern Neck. Add in craft beer, freshcut ribbon fries drizzled with truffle oil, and save room for a massive shake.

Best Dive Bar MARYLAND Nautical Lounge, Pasadena Pool tables, a jukebox, neon beer signs as decor, a devoted local clientele, and an attached package store for carry-out— and if you don’t know about it, you wouldn’t even notice it was there. They don’t make ‘em like this anymore, and that’s a shame.

VIRGINIA Yorktown Pub, Yorktown This local hangout feels more neighborhood pub than dive bar, especially when you factor in the cozy, wood-paneled walls, brick fireplace, hearty menu, and up-close views of the York River beach. Dive into their extensive beer list, too.

Best Crab House MARYLAND Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn, Annapolis Yes, this riverfront classic gets a lot of tourists, and often an hour-long wait in high season.

But it’s the real deal, family-run for five generations and featuring blues of all sizes, from local waters whenever possible.

VIRGINIA Crazy Crab, Reedville Ok, this 20-year-old spot on Cockrell’s Creek doesn’t do steamed crabs. But you’ll find crab dip, crab-stuffed mushrooms, crab cakes (plain or on a bed of fried green tomatoes), and crab-stuffed fish, shrimp or lobster. Sometimes it’s nice to have someone else do the picking.

Best of the Bay 2020

Best Brunch MARYLAND Killarney House, Davidsonville A traditional Irish breakfast with rashers, sausage, and black and white pudding is a natural at this roadside tavern. Or maybe the corned beef hash bowl, crabmeat omelet or made-toorder waffles? Bring your appetite and plan to linger: Live music starts at 3 pm.

VIRGINIA Water Street Grill, Yorktown Variety is the name of the game, with creole steak n’ eggs, lobster or blue-crab bennies served on a biscuit, and chicken ’n’ waffles with Tennessee hot sauce offered alongside the usual suspects.

Their brunch is so popular, they serve it on Saturday and Sunday.

Best Breakfast MARYLAND Driftwood Diner, Shady Side Enjoy comfort-food breakfast all day, from pancakes and omelets to chipped beef and plump biscuits and gravy. Lunch specials rotate, and some (like Monday’s loaded baked potato soup) usually sell out.

VIRGINIA Car Wash Café, Kilmarnock This quirky, downhome spot gets its name from the setting (yep, a former car wash) but its loyal following from the great, homestyle food, served til 11 am, or 2 pm on Sundays. It’s a must when you’re down by the rivah.

Best Maryland Crab Soup MARYLAND Suicide Bridge Restaurant, Hurlock Take a hearty beef stock base, pack it with fresh veggies, crabmeat and plenty of flavor, and you get a soup worth road-tripping for.

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Best Cream of Crab Soup MARYLAND The Wellwood, Charlestown We’re adding one more accolade to the awards earned by the rich, creamy bisque served at this historic former hunting camp.

And extra kudos for just the right amount of sherry.

Best She-crab Soup VIRGINIA Irwin’s Pharmacy, Chesapeake A humble diner attached to a circa-1934 pharmacy isn’t where you would expect to find a stellar she-crab soup, but that’s part of the magic. As is getting yours before it sells out.

Best Seafood Market MARYLAND Kool Ice & Seafood, Cambridge Owner Dave Nickerson has been buying the best seafood direct from watermen and processing onsite since 1972. Expect great product at reasonable prices, and

order ahead if you want your seafood steamed to go.

VIRGINIA Graham & Rollins, Hampton This fourth-generation seller ships their Old Point Comfort Brand jumbo lump and crabcakes nationally, but there’s nothing like buying in person.

The fresh fish is everchanging, and they’ll fry it up if you’ve worked up an appetite shopping.

Best Oyster Stew MARYLAND Steak & Main, North East This specialty is made to order all year round, with sauteed shallots, butter, Worcestershire, oyster liquor, cream, and plump, meaty oysters. The 12-ounce crock comes paired with house-made oyster crackers.

VIRGINIA Harpoon Larry’s, Newport News Bacon is the secret ingredient to this house favorite, sautéed with

corn, green onions, and garlic before the oysters come into the picture. It’s served over mashed red potatoes, and finished with house fish roe.

Best Chef MARYLAND Steve Hardison, Pirate’s Cove, Annapolis Come for the views, stay for the food at this waterfront eatery helmed by executive chef Steve Hardison. The broiled seafood bake is tops, as are the fish ‘n’ chips and honey-glazed Norwegian salmon. (He also oversees more Irish-tinged menus at sister restaurants Galway Bay, Killarney House, and Brian Boru.)

VIRGINIA Bryan Byrd, Dredge, Irvington Chef-owner Bryan Byrd earned his chops in Key West and with his award-winning seafood truck before opening Dredge in 2019.

Local sourcing is key to his ethos, be it oysters (raw, fried, in tacos, or on a pizza) from local waters

or meat and produce from his sister’s family farm.

Best Local Delicacy With contenders like this, how could you pick just one? We couldn’t, and neither should you. Everyone is a winner.

Smith Island Cake The decadent, multilayered cake has been Maryland’s state dessert since 2008, but oral history puts its roots about 200 years earlier. Vanilla cake with chocolate fudge icing is the classic, but we’ll take it in any flavor we can get it.

Berger Cookies When German immigrant Henry Berger arrived in Baltimore in

Oystercatcher at Work

by Kathy Mongold Best of the Bay 2020

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

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1835 and opened a bakery, he had no idea the tasty imprint he’d make with his cake-like cookies, dipped in thick fudge icing. Danke, sir.

Stuffed Ham The unofficial dish of Southern Maryland takes a lot of work, but the juicy, flavor-packed results are always worth it. Or pick up one to go at W.J. Dent and Sons in Tall Timbers.

Steamed Crabs Whether you drench yours in Old Bay, J.O., or plain drawn butter, there’s no better way to spend an afternoon than in their tasty company.

Best Dock and Dine MARYLAND Pirate’s Cove, Galesville There are few better ways to spend a weekend than cruising to this marina, ordering up a seafood platter, and watching the sun go down as live music heats up the deck.

VIRGINIA Hole in the Wall Waterfront Grill, Gwynns Island When you’re located on an island, you cater to anyone who can get there. They have nine slips for boats, and the team delivers dockside if you prefer the view from your own cockpit.

Best Local Coffee MARYLAND Rise Up, various locations, Eastern Shore What began in a humble trailer by returned Peace Corps volunteer Tim Carleton has grown into a national brand,

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focused on tasty coffee made with sustainable organic and fair-trade practices. Try it at one of 10 locations around the Bay.

Rudee’s on the Inlet

VIRGINIA Mobjack Bay Coffee Roasters, Yorktown Avid coffee lovers Celeste and Jo Gucanac have been sourcing and roasting specialty beans for the perfect cup since 2007. The Yorktown Colonial blend features varietals used in the Revolutionary era, roasted in their circa-1720 headquarters in historic Yorktown Village.

Best Bar MARYLAND Galway Bay, Annapolis A slew of local and imported beers on tap, an award-winning whiskey collection, tasty food, and live music most evenings make this bar a winner, as does its friendly tribe of locals. Don’t come for the game because they don’t have TVs, preferring the art of conversation over competition.

VIRGINIA Surf Rider Restaurants, various locations Founded by mom and son Liz Massey and Stanley Bennet in Virginia Beach in 1980, it’s still family owned, with seven locations sharing the same casual beach vibe, great food, and generous staff that is equally welcoming whether you pop in for an hour or stay from afternoon through evening.

Best Distillery MARYLAND Lyon Rum (Windon Distilling), St. Michaels Founder Jamie Windon traveled and tasted rums around the world before founding her distillery in 2013. The focus is handcrafted, double-distilled rums in myriad varieties, some Best of the Bay 2020

JODY’S PICK Best Restaurant with Gliding Tables WINNER Rudee’s on the Inlet Restaurant & Cabana Bar, Rudee Inlet, Va. At Rudee’s on the Inlet, I’m happy to say, the bench seats glide right along with the gliding tables in one happy coordinated motion. Otherwise it would be chaos. Sometimes it almost feels like chaos trying to get a gliding table on the restaurant’s popular outside patio. I don’t know how owner Carter Turpin came up with the idea, but it was genius. Rudee’s on the Inlet began in 1983 as a bait and tackle shop but has since morphed into restaurant, patio, and marina, housed in a replica Coast Guard station. What’s my go-to favorite here? The smoked fish dip every time!

ideal for sipping and some made for mixing.

VIRGINIA Copper Fox Distillery, Sperryville Innovative distiller Rick Wasmund has been called a mad scientist for his innovative approach, incorporating apple, cherry, and peach woods in a one-of-a-kind distilling process that’s led to numerous awards and international accolades.

Best Cidery VIRGINIA Sly Clyde Cidery,

Hampton This coastal cidery, named after co-founders Tim and Doug Smith’s cheeky grandfather, sells canned and keg cider made from Virginia-grown apples. Visit their HQ in Phoebus for draft-only creations, plus food trucks and live music.

Best Winery MARYLAND Chateau Bu-De Winery & Vineyard, Chesapeake City Brenda and Warren Dedrick’s winery spans 440 acres originally

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VIRGINIA Saude Creek Vineyards, Lanexa Part of the Colonial Wine Trail, this 100-acre vineyard is located midway between Richmond and Williamsburg, on the site of a Revolutionary-era tavern. Come on a weekend to enjoy samples or bottles, plus food trucks and live music on an outdoor stage.

VIRGINIA Water Street Grille, Yorktown The brick patio overlooking Yorktown Beach and the York River behind is an ideal place to watch the comings and goings of ships in and out of the Bay. Brick-oven pastas and pizzas pair well with the 20 craft beers on tap, which always include lots of Virginia brews.

Best Crabcake

MARYLAND Pirate’s Cove,

MARYLAND Boatyard Bar & Grill, Annapolis The slogan is “All killer, no filler,” and they mean it. Be warned: The fist-sized balls of jumbo lump meat, perfectly broiled and served with housemade tartar sauce, will ruin you for anyplace else.

Galesville You’re practically on the dock itself when you grab an outdoor table at this longtime favorite in Anne Arundel county. Live music, a diverse menu, and a congenial crowd makes it an ideal spot to while away the hours.

VIRGINIA River Market, White Stone This longtime caterer and market flavors their freshly-made cakes with minced scallion, then deep-fries them and serves them on a Kaiser roll to go. Or pick up

Best Outdoor Dining

some to cook at home, along with fresh-baked pie or brownies for dessert.

Best Brew Pub MARYLAND Rams Head Tavern, Annapolis Their Fordham beer was brewed onsite until popularity outgrew capacity. Now made in Delaware in partnership with Old Dominion, it’s still the house draft—in the form of IPAs, lagers, sour, and stout— alongside a rotating cast of guest taps. Enjoy a pint in the outdoor beer garden, in the cozy basement, or in the alwaysbuzzing main room.

VIRGINIA Gloucester Brewing Company, Gloucester Brewmaster Myron Wade perfected his skills in his garage before opening this microbrewery in a former courthouse on Main Street. The Shucking Good oyster stout is brewed with local oysters, and it’s shucking delicious.

Best Bartender MARYLAND Jamie Taylor, Brian Boru Irish Restaurant and Pub, Severna Park With the Boru team for eight years and counting, Jamie’s loyal following of regulars-turnedfriends comes from his affable nature and personal service. “He remembers the things that are important to people,” says manager Heather Saffield, be it pouring your usual before you even order or participating in charity fundraisers in his time off.

VIRGINIA Tom Sawyer, Hole in the Wall, Grimstead A Mathews County native, Tom has been with the restaurant since it opened, and designed their popular (and strong!) specialty cocktails. Loved by locals for his easy-to-talk-to nature, he extends that friendly vibe to visitors as well. “We get boat traffic from all over the place,” he says. “I love seeing when people come from far and wide to check us out!”

DICK WELTON PHOTOGRAPHY

owned by 17th-century cartographer Augustine Herrman, with dual labels Chateau Bu-De and Bohemia Manor Farm.

Enjoy a well- balanced Blanc de Blanc sparkling at their airy tasting room overlooking the Bohemia River.

BEST BREW PUB Gloucester Brewing Company, Gloucester, Va. Best of the Bay 2020

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Spinnaker Unfurling

by Kim Kelly

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Best of the Bay 2020

& earth never “Heaven agreed better to frame a

sail, oars, paddles, and power.

This is a People’s Bay. A standup paddleboard or kayak or canoe, a paddle, place for man’s habitation…Here are and a PFD are enough to get started, mountaines, hils, plaines, valleyes, rivers,

by Capt. John Page Williams whether on Spa Creek around Annapolis, and brookes, all running most pleasantly into a faire Bay.” (Capt. John Smith, The Generall Historie of the Miles River around St. Michaels, or Powhatan Creek behind Jamestown Island, where there’s a bald cypress tree Virginia, New England & The Summer Isles, 1624).

Actually, Captain Smith and the rest of us “come heres” that sprouted before John Smith arrived.

At the other end of the spectrum are cruising grounds have discovered something the Chesapeake’s native Algonkian tribes have known for centuries. The Chesapeake for larger boats, whether power or sail. Our Bay has been a is what geographers call a drowned river valley, the largest Mid-Atlantic hub for passagemakers for more than a century, estuary in the United States, and the third largest on Earth, visiting not only large harbors like Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and Norfolk/Portsmouth but also smaller water towns with 11,684 miles of shoreline.

Our Bay formed after the last Ice Age, when rising sea like Havre de Grace, Chestertown, Crisfield, Onancock, and level let the Atlantic flood 200 miles of the lower Urbanna. Adventurous trawlers poke way up the rivers to Susquehanna River. It captured large tributaries that we Seaford on the Nanticoke and Richmond on the James. know today as the Potomac, James, Rappahannock, York, Many cruising sailors also race, whether in friendly weekend Patuxent, Choptank, Nanticoke, and some 30 more, forming rivalry or hardcore competition. A majority of them cut their an intricate web of navigable waterways. In 1612, Captain teeth in active dinghy classes. Major centers stretch from John Smith opened the system to colonial settlement by Annapolis and Oxford to Fishing Bay and Hampton, with publishing a map based on his explorations during 1607-09. smaller but enthusiastic club racing in between.

For those of us with “day boats,” whether skiffs or He covered all the tidal waters in the Chesapeake and its rivers, except for the Choptank, the Eastern Bay complex runabouts, the Chesapeake gives us so much water for (including the Miles and Wye), and the Chester. No wonder exploring, gunkholing, day cruises, sunset-watching, the Park Service’s Captain John Smith Chesapeake National picnics, and tow sports, plus a cornucopia of fishing opportunities. Some of us develop lifelong loves for home Historic Trail is 1,800 miles long!

Since then, these waterways have provided natural waterways, while others take advantage of hundreds of infrastructure for a land that had no major roads until a launch ramps.

Even better, the Bay blesses us with four distinct century ago. Today, they still fulfill a commercial function, with two of the North Atlantic’s largest ports (Hampton seasons, at least three ripe for boating, within limits of Roads and Baltimore), regional traffic by tug and barge, and prudence. Even the Chesapeake’s winter, though an acquired taste, invites us out for ventures afloat or walks “the water business” (seafood harvesting).

At the same time, the Chesapeake’s waters invite along favorite beaches. For all of these reasons, we celebrate recreational exploration in watercraft large and small, under all that our Best Bay gives us every day.

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Waypoints offers charters on a fleet of sailboats, but also rents a pair of Jeanneau Power NC 33s for those interested in a less strenuous day on the water.

BEST PLACE TO SHOW OFF Ego Alley, Annapolis

VIRGINIA Carefree Boat Club, Newport News Not to knock boat ownership, but sometimes it’s anything but carefree. The Carefree membership model is a little different than just renting a boat for a few days, but it takes care of a lot of the hassle and allows for unlimited usage of their fleet.

Best Sailboat Rental Best Raft-up MARYLAND Rhode River A perennial favorite for Middle Bay boaters, even in these times of social distancing, Rhode River raft-ups are popular choices for clubs and others just looking to hang out, swim, and enjoy. Go at the right time and you might even get a show; this year it was the site of Rock the Rhode, with a local band playing to the crowd.

VIRGINIA Little Bay at Fleets Bay Just north of the mouth of the Rappahannock River, this popular anchorage is big enough that it doesn’t get too crowded, and a great place to watch the sunset or dinghy ashore to the secluded beach. It’s not terribly protected, but it is convenient to the open Bay and a popular waypoint for travelers.

Best Place to Paddle MARYLAND Rockhold Creek Part of Rockhold Creek’s popularity may be its proximity to Chesapeake Paddle Sports (see “Best Kayak/SUP Store”), which makes it an easy place to test out a new purchase. But

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whether you do one of their group tours or strike out on your own, there are plenty of marinas (and a couple of dock bars), as well as a lovely sunset to be seen on Rockhold Creek.

offers outsized opportunities to get out on the water, whether you’re looking for fishing tournaments or sailboat races.

VIRGINIA Poquoson This peninsula at the southern end of the Bay offers 87 miles of shoreline to explore, abundant wildlife to check out, and a number of places to put in. The city of Poquoson has also put together a series of “Blueway” water trails to suit the needs or schedule of any paddler.

Best Place to Show Off

STAFF PICK Dragon Run, Va.

Best Sailing Town MARYLAND Annapolis The self-proclaimed “Sailing Capital of the U.S.” took a hit this year with the cancellation of the U.S. Sail and Powerboat shows, but it still has plenty to offer, from plentiful boatyards and easy docking to quick access to downtown and the Bay. VIRGINIA Deltaville For a small town, the “Boating Capital of the Chesapeake Bay” Best of the Bay 2020

STAFF PICK Hampton, Va.

MARYLAND Ego Alley, Annapolis A narrow channel with dockside bars, easily visible from all sides, adds up to plenty of people checking out your boat—or heckling you from a safe distance, depending on how you perform.

VIRGINIA Riverwalk Landing, Yorktown Along with outdoor dining, shops, and a lovely walking spot along the York River, you’ll find 1,200 feet of dock and enough current to make docking interesting.

STAFF PICKS Baltimore Inner Harbor, Hampton River

Best Powerboat Rental MARYLAND Waypoints Annapolis Formerly Cruise Annapolis,

MARYLAND Haven Charters, Rock Hall Rock Hall’s Haven offers a couple dozen yachts for the occasional sailor, ranging from a Catalina 350 to a Beneteau 51.1, and makes a convenient starting point for voyaging to many Upper Bay attractions.

VIRGINIA Norton Yachts, Deltaville On the Lower Bay, Norton offers a small fleet of sailboats in the 30- to 50-foot range for cruising to dozens of anchorages.

Best Tour Boat Operator MARYLAND Blue Crab Charters, Rock Hall Blue Crab’s Island Girl, a Morgan 43 center cockpit cruiser, offers 90-minute cruises five times a day, seven days a week, including a sunset cruise. An extra $20 gets you a Waterman’s Crab House crabcake platter for the full Rock Hall experience.

VIRGINIA American Rover, Norfolk The American Rover is a 135-foot, three-masted topsail schooner, Coast Guard certified to carry 129 people (limited to 65 passengers this year for social

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Moonrise on Dogwood Harbor

by Sharon Lee

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Best of the Bay 2020

Dock’s End

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Crab Pots on the Hard

by Ashley Hall Best of the Bay 2020

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distancing). They offer two-hour harbor and sunset cruises, as well as special events booking and private event rental based in Norfolk.

STAFF PICK Schooner Woodwind, Annapolis

Best Anchorage MARYLAND Wye River A number of anchorages dot this river, with the deepwater Shaw Bay probably the best-known. But the 16 miles

of the Wye hold many other spots along the undeveloped shore, and the careful gunkholer will be rewarded.

VIRGINIA Corrotoman River Just off the Rappahannock, the Corrotoman River offers several secluded anchorages. It’s close to Irvington and just across the Rappahannock from Urbanna.

Sandy Point and Bells Creek, on the Eastern Branch, are popular hurricane holes, or if you’re in search of solitude, try the deeper water of Western Branch Cove.

Celebrating Sunset at Cape Charles

by Eric Speth

Best Resort Marina MARYLAND Herrington Harbour South, North Beach When the marina is the destination, the amenities make it worth the trip. Herrington Harbour South offers pools, beaches, a restaurant, a market—pretty much everything you or your boat need for a relaxing getaway, with easy Bay access.

VIRGINIA Tides Inn, Irvington Stay on the boat or book a room; either way, you can enjoy bike,

kayak, and SUP rentals; pool and beach access; and lawn games (life-size chess!). And check out the water views and locally-sourced cuisine at their Chesapeake Restaurant & Terrace.

STAFF PICKS Haven Harbour Marina, Rock Hall, and Coles Point Marina, Hague, Va.

Best Clean Marina MARYLAND Herrington Harbour North, Tracys Landing Come for the amenities including

JODY’S PICK Best Place for a Family Cruise FIRST PLACE Hampton, Va. Hampton gets pride of first place here for more reasons than I’ve got room to mention, but let’s try a few. Hampton is a short easy trip up the Hampton River and comes with several good marinas, a classic carousel, an air and space museum, tour boats, parks, and an entire tree-lined, brick street populated with small, local restaurants. It’s also uncongested and relaxing for the grown-ups. Finally, just around the corner, it has historic Fort Monroe, with its own marina, anchorage, beaches, and restaurants.

SECOND PLACE Baltimore, Md. I’m giving Baltimore the edge for second place here for its activity-rich waterfront, its cool neighborhoods, Fort McHenry, the Aquarium, and the ballpark at Camden Yards. In addition, Baltimore’s three distinct waterfront neighborhoods—Inner Harbor, Fells Point, and Canton, each with its own marina— make it a three-destination-in-one family cruise.

THIRD PLACE The Wharf, Washington D.C. The only reason I’m relegating this colossus of tourism to the number 3 spot is that it’s a bit of a hike up the Potomac River—but one that is well worth the trouble, I believe I’ve mentioned approximately 137 times. Washington Channel’s new Wharf, with its restaurants, shops, entertainment venues, delightful views, fish market and marinas, is a family destination in itself. But its location within walking distance of the Smithsonian, the monuments, a Metro stop, and even a grocery store make it by far the best way to visit the city. Think Cherry Blossom Festival next spring. If you don’t have a boat, get one just to make this trip!

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pools and a tiki bar, but know there is plenty going on behind the scenes as well to make the Bay cleaner and greener, like marsh projects, dustless sanding, and oil recycling.

VIRGINIA Riverwalk Landing, Yorktown After a 1985 hurricane left them with a clean slate waterfront-wise, Yorktown planners took the time to rebuild and revitalize the area, including a commitment to protect the York River. That applies to the landscaping and groundskeeping,

as well as their piers, with 1,200 feet of docking space, pumpouts, water, and electricity.

the Bay and a prime spot for the various concerts and events held along the water.

Best Marina for Transients

STAFF PICK The Wharf in D.C.

MARYLAND Shipwright Harbor, Deale Shipwright gets high marks for its beautiful location off Herring Bay, as well as its amenities (including bathhouses, pool, and laundry) and friendly staff, making it a tranquil stop for boaters transiting the Bay and a repeat destination for weekend cruisers.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

MARYLAND Herrington Harbour South, North Beach Guests rave about the food, the pool, the friendly staff, and the views, pushing Herrington South to the top of multiple Best of the Bay categories every year, so it’s only fitting that their fans drove them to the top spot this year.

VIRGINIA Stingray Point,

VIRGINIA Riverwalk Landing, Yorktown Offering overnight stays for transient boaters, with electrical and water hookups as well as pumpout facilities and showers, Riverwalk makes a great stop on the York River, with easy access to

Wash Day

by Jill Hudson 32

Best Overall Marina

Best of the Bay 2020

Deltaville A favorite of CBM staff, Stingray Point proved a favorite with readers too this year. With easy access to the Bay, as well as secluded creeks and rivers, this Deltaville marina says it is “dedicated to providing a quiet,

secure, and scenic facility for annual slipholders where the joys of boating and sailing can be realized without the intrusions of commerce.” Sounds pretty good to us.

STAFF PICKS Campbell’s Boatyards, Oxford, Md., and Harbor East, Baltimore

Best Dockmaster MARYLAND Tyler Rice , Herrington Harbour South, North Beach VIRGINIA Capt. James Scruggs, Riverwalk Landing Piers, Yorktown

Best Fuel Dock MARYLAND Rhode River Marina, Edgewater VIRGINIA Bluewater Yachting Center, Hampton

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midst all of the uncertainty that 2020 has wrought, one thing iremains the same – boaters’ desire to be on the water. The past year has been challenging for the entire travel industry, but unlike some other segments of the market, demand for yacht charters into 2021 remains extremely high. Between so many guests rescheduling their existing vacations from 2020 into 2021, as well as an influx in new demand from the Cruise line segment and increased activity from travel agents looking for ideal “socially-distanced” vacation options for their clients, availability is already dwindling for next year.

It has been widely publicized that a yacht charter vacation offers perhaps the most ideal social-distancing available, and the travel industry has responded positively to that message.

As of writing this piece, we as an industry remain largely limited by the travel restrictions still in place worldwide, especially for US citizens.

However, over the past few weeks there has been increased activity on this front, suggesting a loosening of restrictions in the coming months which would allow a return to operations for ourselves and many of our competitors in key destinations.

We were also very fortunate to be able to deliver charters in the Mediterranean to our European source markets earlier this year, with vacationers from the UK, France and Germany able to travel to Italy, Greece and Croatia over the summer months.

Although the vast majority of our global fleet has been docked since the pandemic began in earnest in March, we have been hard at work refining our operations processes to prepare for a global reopening. From new cleaning procedures and safety protocols, new equipment like fogging machines for our yachts, to a full audit of our products, services and destinations, we have been positioning ourselves to thrive in a post-Covid world. Our aim is to address and remove any concern or barrier a guest may have with regards to safety, so our charterers can truly relax and enjoy their vacation when they choose to sail with us once more.

We have also implemented our “Book with Confidence” promise, which acknowledges the everchanging world in which we live and allows for improved flexibility with our Terms and Conditions, as well as expanded personal travel insurance options to ensure each guest can be fully confident that their charter, and their money, is taken care of should circumstances change.

2020 has been a difficult year, but the charter industry is well positioned for success as we head into the future. I personally would like to extend my heartfelt thanks to our loyal charter guests and passionate sailors everywhere for their unwavering faith in our business and our industry to continue providing unforgettable moments on the water for generations to come.

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STAFF PICK Annapolis City Marina

Best Working Boatyard MARYLAND Bert Jabin Yacht Yard, Annapolis VIRGINIA Zimmerman Marine, Deltaville

Best Engine Mechanic MARYLAND Rhode River

VIRGINIA Patriot Tours & Provisions, Yorktown

Best Beginner Powerboat Classes

VIRGINIA Leo Wardrup Memorial Cape Charles Cup

Best Fishing Charter

Best Canvas Shop MARYLAND Canvas Connection, Tracys Landing

VIRGINIA Deltaville Yachting

VIRGINIA Deltaville Boatyard

Best Marine Electrician MARYLAND Marine Technical Service HHN, Deale VIRGINIA Zimmerman Marine, Deltaville

VIRGINIA Ship’s Tailor, Deltaville

Best Sailmaker MARYLAND Quantum Sails, Annapolis

VIRGINIA Evolution Sailmakers, Deltaville

Best Learn-to-Sail Program MARYLAND The Sailing Academy, Tracys Landing This sailing school has a course that’s great for beginners: “Try Sailing.” That’s it— just try it! You don’t need a wealthy friend, or a boat of your own, to give it a shot. If you like it, maybe sign up for one of their beginner classes; if not, hey, no problem.

VIRGINIA Norton Yachts, Deltaville Norton really does it all: charters, sales, service, and an American

VIRGINIA Southern Bay Race Week, Hampton Roads

MARYLAND Governor’s Cup, St. Mary’s City

MARYLAND Annapolis School of Seamanship It’s always a little embarrassing when CBM’s sister company wins, but they were overwhelmingly chosen by the voters. For what they do, from Junior Captains to Women at the Wheel to captain’s licenses, they’re really the best game in town, and we’d say that even if they didn’t sign our paychecks.

Marina

missed them, and we’ll be looking for them to round the turn throwing up a roostertail of wake next year.

Sailing Association-certified sailing school to get you ready for all that. Norton estimates that 40 percent of the students in their two-weekend classes arrive with no experience, and the classes are limited to four students, so everybody gets plenty of hands-on time.

Center They aren’t a full-time school, but DYC has a vested interest in getting people out on the water and keeping them safe once they’re there. To that end, they offer a two-day Boater’s Boot Camp (with the Richmond Sail & Power Squadron) with classroom and onboard instruction to get you started.

Best Powerboat Race MARYLAND Cambridge Classic Powerboat Regatta At more than 100 years old, the country’s longest-running powerboat races were cancelled for 2020, but hopefully they’ll come roaring back next year.

VIRGINIA Cocktail Class Racing, Urbanna Another victim of the COVID pandemic, we didn’t get to see people cram themselves into these tiny wooden racers this year. But clearly our readers

Best Distance Sailboat Race

Best Sailboat Regatta MARYLAND Helly Hansen NOOD Regatta, Annapolis

Best Kayak/SUP MARYLAND Chesapeake Paddle Sports, Deale

MARYLAND Tom Weaver, Annapolis CBM readers will be familiar with Tom Weaver, a longtime friend of the magazine, and it turns out a

JODY’S PICK Best Place to Nearly Run Aground Running aground is as easy as falling off a log. Here are three of my favorite places to do it.

FIRST PLACE Knapps Narrows For five or 10 minutes after Knapps Narrows has been dredged, you and I probably would be fine anywhere along this busy shortcut between the Bay and the Choptank River. But after that, not so much. Coming out of the Choptank this spring, for example, I thought I things were going well until I looked down at my depth-sounder and saw I had all of six inches under my keel. Maybe it’s just me.

SECOND PLACE Leaving Queenstown Creek This time I know it’s not just me. I’ve heard the stories. Entering this Chester River tributary is not too bad. You just line up the tall pine with the water tower, then be sure you stay well off the long shoal (and lovely beach at low tide) to port before turning into the deep anchorage behind it. Coming back out is the snare that catches the unwary and carefree, who tend either to misjudge the length of the shoal or fail to look over their shoulder to line up the dead reckoning markers. I’ve hit ground here twice.

THIRD PLACE Leaving National Harbor There is something about the devil-may-care attitude we adopt when leaving a place that catches us time and again.

The entrance to National Harbor follows the shoreline of Smoots Bay all the way to the Gaylord Convention Center dock.

Easy enough. But later, when following the markers out, people overlook the last two marks and instead shoot out toward the Potomac, only to find themselves in shoal water. Obviously, I’m speaking from experience here. Can you say back up?

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being a New Zealand transplant, Weaver has clearly found a home in the Maritime Republic of Eastport, winning both light tackle and general fishing guide categories by a nautical mile.

lot of you like him too. The votes poured in for this guide, sailor, boatbuilder, and all-around Bay pirate.

VIRGINIA Capt. Puddin’ (G&G Charters), Deltaville This year’s winner runs day-long fishing trips on either the 43-foot deadrise Karen Lynn (six passengers) or the 55-foot Lucky Lady (41 passengers). They both get high marks for fishing, but also for the crew and the Cap’n.

Best Light Tackle Guide MARYLAND Tom Weaver, Annapolis Despite

BEST LIGHT TACKLE GUIDE Capt. Chris Newsome Mathews, Va.

VIRGINIA Capt. Chris Newsome, Mathews, Va. Tidewater native Chris Newsome has been a saltwater fly and light tackle guide for more than two decades, and claims he took up fishing at the tender age of 15 months. That’s tough to fact-check, but he has built a career on the Bay doing what he loves.

Best Tall Ship MARYLAND Pride of Baltimore II, Baltimore These are tough times for tall ships, with COVID restrictions putting a halt to travel and groups, two things necessary to the operation of a large sailing

vessel. But Pride has weathered storms before, and readers want to see those raked masts sail on.

VIRGINIA Schooner Alliance, Yorktown Yorktown’s own three-masted

Youth Sailing

by Pat Venturino

schooner Alliance has been daysailing from Riverwalk Landing since 2005, with summers spent in the Caribbean.

This year put a serious dent in the schedule but they’ll be back out cruising when the weather warms up.

Best Boater’s Bar MARYLAND Tie: Skipper’s Pier, Deale/Boatyard Bar & Grill, Annapolis It’s tough to argue with either of these choices, with perennial best crabcake winner Boatyard on the one side and cream of crab soup winner Skipper’s on the other.

Then again, they’re pretty close to each other, so theoretically you could hit both of them.

VIRGINIA Cutty Sark, Norfolk This is a sad one, as the Virginian-Pilot reported at the end of September, “The Cutty Sark, maybe the last great Ocean View waterfront dive, closes this week after 60 years.” And so, after being buffeted by storms and drunken patrons, after staying open with waist-high flood waters, a great Chesapeake dive bar closes its doors. Pour one out.

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High Water

by Ashley Hall

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A Taste of the Chesapeake

by Mike Cashman

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T

Other favorites he Rolling Stones include spying a flock of had it right. While you ducks cupped up in majestic can’t always get what you want,

by Capt. Chris Dollar descent, a scene nothing short of if you try sometime, you get what you want need. That’s why—in the clutches of a inspirational. A Chesapeake marsh is a magical global pandemic—the Chesapeake is just what place, and for me it holds a special solitary we need: an awesome place for outdoor beauty in winter. Here you’ll find gadwall, teal, pursuits. My pursuits tend to be literal, chasing black ducks, and widgeon. Open rivers and the after fish or game, but whether you’re looking Bay are the territory of diving ducks like scaup, for a great place to paddle or chasing the perfect canvasbacks, and redheads, fearless in the face of howling winds and biting whitecaps. sunset, you can find it on the Bay. Few images say Chesapeake like a brace of Catching a spunky rockfish on a top water fly ranks high on my list of best things about the Canada geese gliding in near perfect symmetry, Chesapeake, but it’s just one experience on a wing-and-wing, on their final approach, with long list that includes stalking speckled trout and their pillowy white undercarriage laid bare, puppy drum in the skinny waters surrounding black webbed feet dangling like marionettes our marsh islands, wrestling with brutish mere feet above our plastic foils.

Or, through a veil of fog distorting dawn’s halfcobia, outwitting houndfish, playing chess with freshwater trout, or seeking out the less light, catching fleeting glimpses of a mature Tom glamorous Chesapeake species like spadefish, (turkey), its chestnut-brown fan barely visible, blue cats, or snakeheads. Crabbing is just stealthily crossing the woods.

No doubt hunting and fishing offer pure fun.

Fish brim with wild vitality, and by lasting family memories and camaraderie, as extension allow me to do the same. Coming well as exquisite fried chicken and egg-andtight to a fish—big or small—brings an scrapple sandwiches. For me it goes deeper. adrenaline rush, which is calibrated to the Being outdoors immerses me in the natural particulars of that fish and the circumstances of cycle of life, warding off a technical how you hook it. When you reach a certain world consumed with “likes,” “views,” and point in life, the metaphysical “last cast” helps “clicks.” No better place to do it than here on the Chesapeake Bay. keep the endless churn of time at arm’s length.

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MOST CHARMING CHESAPEAKE TOWN Yorktown, Virginia

Most Charming Chesapeake Town MARYLAND Solomons Whether you arrive by boat or car, Solomons offers attractions ranging from the Calvert Marine Museum (see “Best Maritime Museum”) and Annmarie Gardens and Sculpture Park to fossil-hunting at Calvert Cliffs, along with a ton of restaurants, hotels, and B&Bs to make a weekend of it.

From the Age of Exploration to the latest America’s Cup advances, the Mariners’ Museum packs in basically everything you want to know about boats, including construction from carbon fiber to buffalo hide, as well as art, models, and artifacts galore.

Best Community Museum MARYLAND Harriet Tubman Museum and Education Center, Cambridge The site of Cambridge’s epic

Harriet Tubman mural, this volunteer-run museum was started in the 1980s to honor one of Maryland’s greatest.

VIRGINIA Watermen’s Museum, Yorktown It’s dedicated to the watermen, obviously, but this little museum has big ideas, emphasizing environmental stewardship, native and colonial history, and ongoing research into the maritime legacy of the Bay.

Best Public Beach MARYLAND Flag Ponds Nature Park, Lusby A short hike through the woods reveals a natural sandy beach, perfect for swimming, playing, and searching for fossils and shark teeth.

VIRGINIA Yorktown Beach, Yorktown A two-acre beach near Riverwalk Landing and the rest of Yorktown’s

VIRGINIA Yorktown History is at the center of the Yorktown experience, as befits the site of the last battle of the Revolutionary War, but they’ve updated the place a bit since then, with fine dining options, shopping, and events like art shows and outdoor concerts.

Best Maritime Museum MARYLAND Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons More than a maritime museum, Calvert covers everything from otters to oyster shuckers, with stops for traditional small craft, prehistoric fossils, and wood carving.

Great Blue Heron in Cambridge by Rick Orkis

VIRGINIA Mariners’ Museum and Park, Newport News

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Egret Looks to the Horizon

by Kimberly Valerio

Maryland Moon

by Mike Iserman

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JODY’S PICK Best Place to Find Shark Teeth FIRST PLACE Westmoreland Cliffs, Va. Here’s a fun activity for the family. Kids love it because they don’t have as far to bend over as we do, and their eyes are better. Many of the Bay’s cliffs are best viewed from a boat, but there are a few places where you can stop to scan the shores for relics of the Miocene and all those other eras when all this was part of the sea. Westmoreland State Park is a good example; it’s a beautiful park, with a nice, sandy beach for fossil hunting and a good launch site for paddlecraft and trailer boats. You can camp here or rent a cabin.

SECOND PLACE Calvert Cliffs, Md. While the Virginia side of the Potomac has Westmoreland, Nomini, and Stratford cliffs, the Maryland Western Shore of the Bay has the 24-mile long Calvert Cliffs, which stretch north from the Patuxent River. On a calm day, you can anchor off the cliffs and dinghy ashore to hunt for shark teeth. Alternatively, you can approach the cliff beaches through Calvert Cliffs State Park.

THIRD PLACE Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons, Md. If the first two options are too, well, messy, then take the boat or land yacht to Solomons to visit the excellent Calvert Marine Museum. The museum has a very large collection of fossils and a whiz-bang Paleontology Gallery. They will also help you identify the items you’ve found at Westmoreland or Calvert Cliffs.

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attractions, Yorktown Beach is open to sunbathing, swimming, and general beach shenanigans, and includes an accessible beach path for wheelchairs.

Best Couples’ Escape MARYLAND Cove Point Lighthouse Keeper’s House, Lusby Missed your chance to marry a lighthouse keeper? You can still pretend. This renovated duplex owned by the Calvert Marine Museum is available for three-, four- and seven-day rentals of one or both sides of the duplex.

VIRGINIA Hornsby House Inn, Yorktown A family home built in 1933, Hornsby House was opened as a bed and breakfast in 2011 on Yorktown’s Main Street. It’s

walking distance to restaurants and shops, and a short drive to the area’s many historic attractions.

Best Family Getaway MARYLAND Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons In addition to the skate and ray touch tank and the paleontology prep lab, there are usually activities scheduled at the museum for “sea squirts” (18 months to three years) and “little minnows” (three to five).

VIRGINIA Colonial National Historical Park, Yorktown Turn your kid into a history buff by traveling the 23-mile Colonial Parkway from Yorktown Battlefield (“Look kids, cannons!”) to Historic Jamestown

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BEST HOLIDAY DISPLAY Old Town Alexandria, Va.

(“Look kids, glassblowers!”) and everything in between.

Best Lighted Boat Parade MARYLAND Solomons Held in conjunction with the Solomons Christmas Walk, this boat parade caps a week-long celebration of all things lighted.

Walk around and see the houses and the tree-lighting, then hit the docks for some nautical holiday cheer.

VIRGINIA Yorktown It remains to be seen what this year’s parade will bring, but hopefully it will involve the usual beach bonfire and watching the parade of sail and powerboats compete for best in show.

Best Holiday Display MARYLAND Rock Hall Nothing says Eastern Shore like their community crab basket Christmas tree, made with donated, hand-painted baskets and topped with a glowing red crustacean.

Iconic Islanders

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VIRGINIA Old Town Alexandria This waterfront town of cobblestone streets and 18th-century rowhouses is never prettier than when it’s dressed for the holidays, with twinkling lights and greenery, strolling carolers

and hand bell choirs, and an air of timeless excitement. It’s straight out of Dickens, minus the Scrooge.

Best Place to Camp MARYLAND Assateague State Park

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This just might be the prettiest beach in Maryland, with RV campsites, tent-only sites convenient to a parking lot, and back-country, walk-in sites.

Oceanfront tent sites 101 to 104 are located at the southern end for maximum privacy.

VIRGINIA Bethpage CampResort, Urbanna Call it a camp for people who don’t like tents; instead, you’ll find plentiful RV hookups and private rental cottages with full kitchens and covered decks. Amenities include a boat ramp, lake beach, water park, cow-themed minigolf, and activities for all ages.

Best Scenic Drive MARYLAND Harriet Tubman Byway This 125-mile, self-guided route winds through the Eastern Shore, bringing the abolitionist heroine to life via evocative stops like the circa-1830 Bucktown Village Store, where she took her first risk to help an enslaved man.

VIRGINIA Colonial Parkway This 23-mile scenic highway connects the historic triangle of Yorktown, Jamestown, and Williamsburg. Stop along the way for history lessons via interpretive markers, or just cruise and enjoy the protected landscape, managed by the National Park Service.

Best Bicycling Excursion MARYLAND C&D Canal Trail,

Explore 22 miles of riverside biking and walking trails that meander through this capital city, or hone your off-road technique at the purpose-built skills park, tucked under the Lee Bridge.

Best Place for Hiking MARYLAND Calvert Cliffs State Park This stretch of cliffs in southern Maryland is estimated to be up to 20 million years old, with the prehistoric fossils to prove it, so keep your eyes peeled as you roam its 13 miles of trails.

VIRGINIA Dismal Swamp Canal Trail The Dismal Swamp Canal is a boating rite of passage, and the oldest continuously operating man-made canal in the U.S. Bike (or hike or ride) alongside it on this 8.3-mile asphalt trail, repurposed from a former section of Route 17.

Best Historical Site MARYLAND Handsell House, Vienna Sections of this handsome brick Georgian predate the Revolution.

While the house itself is undergoing restoration, outside displays share details on the Native and African American people who lived, worked, and traded here.

VIRGINIA Historic Williamsburg An open-air museum like no other, this 301-acre testament to our earliest days always has something new to discover, no matter how many times you’ve been there.

Chesapeake City Parallel the ship traffic on the north side of the storied canal from Delaware Bay to the Maryland State Line, then continue along to Chesapeake City on this 14-mile paved path.

Best Birdwatching

VIRGINIA James River Park System, Richmond

MARYLAND Blackwater Wildlife Refuge This refuge spans more than

28,000 acres of marsh and lowland forest, making it one of the premier stops on the Atlantic Flyway for tundra swans, Canada geese, and more than 20 species of duck.

VIRGINIA Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge The resident horses get the attention, but birders know it’s tops in the state for feathered types, too; over 350 species have been recorded here, from osprey and Clapper rails to rarities like the Black-tailed Godwit.

Best Golf Course MARYLAND Chesapeake Bay Golf Club, Rising Sun This 18-hole, semi-private course at the top of the Bay gets raves for well-maintained fairways, rolling greens, and a few doglegs to keep it interesting.

VIRGINIA Cypress Creek Golfer’s Club, Smithfield This par-71 course is a gem of the Tidewater area, thanks in part to an island-style green on the 9th.

It’s managed under a trio of new owners as of summer 2019.

JODY’S PICK Best Unconventional Historical Site FIRST PLACE Structural glass, Menokin, Va. Menokin was built in 1769 as a wedding gift for Revolutionary hero Francis Lighthorse Lee and Rebecca Tayloe. The Lees and the Tayloes were a union of soap-opera proportions. Two hundred years later, however, the home was in near ruins and workers removed two thousand pieces of architectural detail to be stored until the home could one day be restored. Another half-century later, what remains of Menokin stands in an empty field, sheltered by a great canopy. Now plans are in place to put the house back together—but with a difference.

Instead of new wood siding and shingled roofs, the missing pieces will be replaced with structural glass, so the building’s inner structure will be visible to visitors. It’s going to be a revolutionary restoration. Menokin is located on the Northern Neck of Virginia on Cats Point Creek, off the Rappahannock River. This creek, by the way, is the perfect place to paddle back through time. No motors allowed.

SECOND PLACE Ghost houses, St. Mary’s City, Md. St. Mary’s City was, of course, the founding settlement and first capital of the Colony of Maryland. And, as I’m sure you know, it was virtually abandoned after the capital was moved to Annapolis. Since then, some of its major buildings have been reconstructed, and a lot archeological work has been done. It’s a great place to visit and one you can get to easily by boat, but to me the most memorable thing about it, the image that lingers in my mind, is its ghost frames: structural outlines of lumber that mark the location and shape of buildings that have long since disappeared. Visit by car and launch a kayak into the St. Mary’s River. Or better yet, cruise up the St. Mary’s on your boat and anchor off the beach in Horseshoe Bend.

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Golden Hour at Pooles Island

by Art Sands

JODY’S PICK Best Cruise of Unglamorous Lighthouses FIRST PLACE The Potomac River Point Lookout Lighthouse, Md. Let’s begin with Point Lookout Lighthouse, which marks the shoal off the northern shore of the Potomac River. You’ll have to look hard to find this lighthouse, because it sits, not out on the shoal—there are other markers that take care of that job—but on Port Lookout itself. Look for a two-story farmhouse with a light on top. That’s it. The lighthouse was built in 1830, endured a clumsy keeper who broke most of the lights, was the site of rather gruesome doings during the Civil War, and since its decommissioning has been a favorite site for paranormal investigation. The lighthouse is part of Point Lookout State Park, where you can launch a trailer boat or paddlecraft if you’d rather come at it that way.

Fort Washington Light, Md. The first Fort Washington Light was authorized in the early 1800s by U.S. Secretary of War Jefferson Davis (yes, that one). It went through several iterations until 1901, when it ended up as a light placed temporarily on top of a fog bell tower. It’s still a light placed temporarily on top of a fog bell tower. You can’t miss it because you’ll never see another navigation marker like it.

Jones Point Lighthouse, Va. Finally, we come to the littlest lighthouse of all: Jones Point, a one-story house with a lantern on top that was built in 1855. If you visit by land, look on its seawall, where you’ll find the south cornerstone of the original survey for the District of Columbia.

One of its keepers, Benjamin Greenwood, lived in this tiny, four-room house with his wife and 11 of their 14 children. (Did the others sleep outside?) Now it’s part of Jones Point Park and sits nearly under the Woodrow Wilson Bridge.

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Luxuriouswith open floor plan, Eucalyptus detailed raised of windows custom molding, and thefloors, kitchen is open to ceiling, windows with custom molding, and ensuite the kitchen is open to the wall Livingof and Dining areas.

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Theaprimary waterfront features french the deck, custom walk-in closet,ensuite laundrybedroom room, the Living anddoors Dining The aprimary ensuite bedroom features french toareas. the deck, customwaterfront walk-in closet, laundry room, and private bathroom. detached car garage a finished features french doors The to the deck, aoversized customtwo walk-in closet,has laundry room, features french doorsThe to the deck, a oversized custom walk-in closet, laundry room, and private bathroom. detached two car garage has a finished bonus room above with a bathroom.

Located only a few miles away from and private bathroom. The detached oversized two car garage has a finished and private bathroom.

Theadetached oversized two garage a finished bonus room above with bathroom.

Located onlycar a few mileshas away from the quaint towns of White Stone, Kilmarnock, Irvington. bonus roomwaterfront above with a bathroom.

Located only a few miles Only awayanfrom bonus room above with a bathroom.

Located only a few miles away from the quaint waterfront towns of White Stone, Kilmarnock, Irvington.

Only an hour + to Richmond, Williamsburg, Newport News or two hours + to the quaint waterfront towns of White Stone, Kilmarnock, Irvington. Only an thehour quaint waterfront towns of White Stone, Kilmarnock, Irvington.

Only + to Richmond, Williamsburg, Newport News or two hours + to an Northern Virginia, Charlottesville, Virginia Beach. hour + to Richmond, Williamsburg, Newport News or two hours + to hour + to Richmond, Williamsburg, Newport News or two hours + to Also featuresCharlottesville, high speed internet.

Northern Virginia, Virginia Beach.

Northern Virginia, Charlottesville, Virginia Beach.

Northern Virginia, Charlottesville, Virginia Best place to work and speed play from home! Beach.

Also features high internet.

Also features high speed internet.

Also features high speed internet.

Best place to work and play from home!

Best place to work and play from home!

Best place to work and play from home!

54

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

CBM Homes MAG 1220v3.indd 1

Best of the Bay 2020 11/13/20 4:27 PM

Ditchley Cottage

NORTH RIVER OFF MOBJACK & CHESAPEAKE BAY

17 Acres (Two Waterfront Parcels ) - 1330’ of Total Water Frontage - River Cottage with Living/ Dining/Kitchen, 2 Bedrooms, Bath & Fabulous Screen Porch - Come Build your dream River Estate here - Country Living with excellent proximity to downtown Gloucester, shops, Hospital, dining & More. $1,120,000 Call/Text: David Dew 804.436.3106 DavidEDew@gmail.com Katie Horsley Dew 804.436.6256 HorsleyRE@yahoo.com

THINGS WE LEARNED FROM 2020: 1. Virtual Working/Learning

Why Not do it with a View?

2. Family Time

Let’s get a House for All 3. Outside Time

Get some Space & Waterfront What does 2021 look like for you??

CALL - TEXT - EMAIL - WEBSITE Contact us Anyway to Start Today!

W W W. H O R S L E Y R E A L E S TAT E . C O M

Voted Best Real Estate Firm 7 Consecutive Years!

garrett

Realty Partners Building Futures Together

garrett Realty Partners presents

COASTAL VIRGINIA’S finest $1,350,000

$1,400,000

taylor farMs

Truly ONE OF A KIND home lacking nothing!! Seller has invested over 2.2 mil in home!! Heated pool, outdoor shower and bathroom, massive pool deck, covered patio, 3 car garage, whole house generator.

$895,000

seaford Waterfront

PERKINS POINT! Waterfront custom home built by Almond Contracting w/ water on 3 sides!!

$599,000

$875,000

little harbor Waterfront

PROPOSED CONSTRUCTION by Marquee Homes! Enjoy the privacy of this 1.37 acre lot on Hodges Cove. Many plans to choose from. Site work / clearing budget included in total list price!

$495,000

$520,000

north Waterfront

12+ acres of privacy! Own your own beautifully landscaped peninsula with water on 3 sides! No flood insurance required! Canoe, fish, swim off your floating pier, enjoy the fire pit, or bird watch!

$490,000

the Woods on Mansion rd

Bright & Spacious Custom Built Home on almost ½ Acre! Family Room w/cozy fireplace open to Casual Dining Area and Kitchen w/Stainless Appliances, Granite Counters, Center Island and Gas Cooking.

Whittakers Mill - WilliaMsbruG

fords colony

Beautiful custom built home in Blackheath close to an entrance/exit in Fords Colony. 2 story foyer ushers you into an open kitchen, living room, casual dining room area with hardwood flooring throughout.

$399,000

Highly customized 3 story Colonial w/ 5 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths which features an open floor plan that includes family room, large kitchen w/ center island and morning room. 2 car attached garage.

757-879-1504 s 1-800-GARRETT

Gloucester Waterfront

5 acres of privacy! Enjoy the sounds of nature from this 19th Century farmhouse with upgrades and improvements throughout.

Estate includes in ground pool and tennis court. Charming sunroom view!

sMithfield

DEEP WATER!!! Beautiful view of the Pagan River located next to Smithfield Station! The value is in the land! Property is being sold as-is/where is.

greg@ggrva.com

Greg Garrett

SPONSORED CONTENT

Has your home increased in value?

Y

Quick Tip: If you enjoy hanging holiday lights and such, BE SAFE. Always make sure your ladder is set with the proper angle and someone is at the bottom of the ladder spotting you for safety.

“John August” Johnson 410.867.0407

john@remodelthebay.com

CREATIVE SPACES CREATIVE SPACES CREATIVE SPACES CREATIVE SPACES REMODELING RE EM MO OD R O DEE ELL LIIN IN NGG G R E M

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WAT E R FRO NT L IVIN G EXPERTS

ou might be thinking I am referring to monetary value. And maybe your home has increased in monetary value. However, I am referring to the growing desire for an improved lifestyle at home.

With the pandemic, we all have been forced to stay at home, work from home and go to school at home. We have also been trying our best to find ways to safely socialize with friends and family while maintaining a safe distance. Wow, what a year.

My clients have come to us with a major increased personal value placed on their home and want to improve its functionality and livability. Now that the home has so much more purpose in so many different ways, new designs and spaces with different purposes are necessary. Homeowners have new needs now based on working and school that can require proper desk space, office equipment and possibly sound proofing to family time, socializing with friends and personal quiet time. We are commonly asked to “create the feel and luxury of my last vacation get-away destination”. My clients want their home to be a place of happiness, relaxation and peace that they are always anxious to come home too.

If this feeling is familiar, start writing your thoughts down and discuss with your family what is truly important to you. Then put the items you come up with in priority order. You are now ready to start the transformation. I don’t see this changing anytime soon; rather I see it continuing to increase in importance over the years. Also remember with good, smart design, not only will your livability increase in value, but done correctly, your monetary value can increase as well.

Your Northern Neck & Middle Peninsula of Virginia Real Estate Specialists

Virtually tour all our listings!

www.RappahannockRiverLuxury.com

First offering of this fine home on the Rappahannock River. It features first floor bedroom en suite, open floor plan, waterside screened porch & patio. Enjoy big water views, incredible sunsets & pier with 4 ft. MLW. Builder designed and built for personal use.

$989,000

www.LancasterCreek.com

Live the island life! This incredibly built home is located on Pearsons Island with huge water views. Truly relax surrounded by water with multiple decks, walls of windows, main level bedroom, large second floor en suite and speakers throughout the home. Pier with 4 ft. MLW.

$499,000

Please visit our property websites to view interactive floor plans, aerials, maps and more!

www.DymerCreek.com

This beautiful one level home sits on over 1 private acre, close to amenities with 3 bedrooms and 3.5 bathrooms. Offering 2 bedroom en suites, screened porch w/ ipe floor, waterside deck, attached 2 car garage, detached 2 car garage, pier with 3-4 ft. MLW with access to the Bay.

$675,000

www.WeemsWaterfront.com

Discover peace and quiet at this beautiful waterfront property on over 4.5 private acres with pier on Taylors Creek. The home is impressive with vaulted & tray ceilings, updated kitchen, main floor bedroom en suite, waterside sunroom, deck & 2 car attached garage.

$599,000

804.724.1587

www.BeverlyShultz.com

SPONSORED CONTENT

 Visit bluewateryachtsales.com for more information on this yacht.

boat of the month

BLUEWATER YACHT SALES Baltimore, MD Call Chuck Meyers 703.999.7696 cmeyers@bluewateryachtsales.com

SPECIFICATIONS LOA ........................................................ 61’ 1” BEAM ....................................................15’ 10” DRAFT .......................................................4’ 2” WEIGHT ...................................... 55,100 lbs FUEL.................................................... 745 gal WATER ............................................... 175 gal POWER............................................ 2,030 HP PRICE ........................................... $1,595,000

2016 Princess 60 Flybridge “ISEABLU” is a remarkable Princess 60 Flybridge that has seen the best of professional care by very knowledgeable owners. She shows extraordinarily well with dual Caterpillar engines only having 355 hours of use and are covered by a CAT Platinum Warranty. This one-owner boat features a high gloss Walnut interior, 3 stateroom/3 head layout, variable speed bow and stern thrusters, full Garmin electronics package, upgraded stereo and SAT TV, air conditioned crew cabin, new custom canvas flybridge and aft deck covers and sunshades, underwater lights, AB tender and so much more!

Please feel free to contact Bluewater Yacht Sales for more information or to set up a time to come and see her for yourself!

Best of the Bay 2020

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

59

Worldwide Yacht Sales | Yacht Charters | New Yacht Construction

1982 50’ Hinckley - $279,500 Curtis Stokes - 410.919.4900

2004 48’ Sea Ray - $325,000 Ed Pickering - 410.708.0633

1987 48’ CHB - $95,000 Lin Earley - 757.672.2778

2001 47’ Catalina - $198,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1988 46’ Grand Banks - $255,000 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

1966 41’ Rhodes - $119,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

1987 41’ C&C - $59,000 Ed Pickering - 410.708.0633

2004 40’ Regal - $199,000 Ed Pickering - 410.708.0633

1978 36’ Trojan - $30,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

2007 34’ Sea Ray - $95,500 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1982 28’ Herreshoff - $29,000 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

2003 20’ Cherubini - $39,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

To see more details about these

and all o ther yac hts arou n

d the glo

be, please vis

it our website below.

Annapolis, MD • St. Michaels, MD • Delaware City, DE • Deltaville, VA • Woodbridge, VA Telephone: 410.919.4900 • Email: info@curtisstokes.net

www.curtisstokes.net

Sales-Installation-Repair Factory Direct-Warranty Station Digital Switching. Custom Glass Helms.

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54’ 2015 Riviera - Belize 54 DayBridge ........$1150,000 54’ 2020 Jeanneau Yachts 54 - Our Docks.... $699,000 53’ 2004 Oyster 53 CC ......................................... $409,000 51’ 1983 Passport 51 ............................................ $225,000 51’ 1983 WASA Atlantic 51....................................$64,500 50’ 1988 Transworld - Fantail 50 ..................... $240,000 50’ 2004 Viking Princess V50 ............................ $299,900 47’ 2010 Monte Carlo 47 .................................... $459,000 45’ 2017 Hanse 455 .............................................. $329,500 45’ 2011 Jeanneau SO 45 DS ........................... $245,000 44’ 2005 Tartan 4400............................................ $327,500 44’ 2009 Tartan 4400............................................ $349,000 44’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 440 - In Stock .................... CALL 44’ 1993 Pacific Seacraft 44 .............................. $215,000 43’ 2018 Tartan 4300............................................ $497,000 42’ 2005 Sea Ray 420 Sedan Bridge .............. $279,900 42’ 1985 Hinckley SW 42 .................................... $259,000 42’ 1987 Jefferson Sundeck 42 ...........................$82,500 42’ 2006 Sabre 426 .............................................. $285,000 41’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 410 - In Stock .................... CALL 41’ 2016 Beneteau 41 Platinum ...................... $230,000 40’ 1982 Nautilus 40 Pilothouse ...................... $115,000 40’ 2000 Caliber 40 LRC ...................................... $164,900

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40’ 1977 Gulfstar Hood 40 ................................. $119,000 40’ 1977 Gulfstar Custom Hood 40 ...................$82,500 40’ 1998 J Boat - J / 120 .........................................$90,000 40’ 2013 Marlow Hunter 40 .............................. $172,000 40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 .............................. $195,000 40’ 1997 Pacific Seacraft 40 .............................. $229,000 40’ 1998 Pacific Seacraft 40 .............................. $295,000 40’ 1987 Tartan 40 - MD ...................................... $114,500 40’ 1988 Canadian Sailcraft CS40 .......................$65,000 39’ 2021 Tartan 395 # 6 - December ..................... CALL 39’ 2021 Excess 12 Catamaran - IN Stock ............ CALL 38’ 1994 Beneteau 38s5.........................................$47,500 38’ 2006 C&C 115 .................................................. $139,000 38’ 1984 Irwin 38 CC ...............................................$59,900 38’ 2021 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 389..................... CALL 38’ 2000 Lagoon 380 .......................................... $215,000 38’ 1986 Vagabond 38............................................$75,000 38’ 1984 Warwick CT38 ....................................... $125,000 38’ 1985 Wilbur 38 Downeast Fly .......................$79,500 38’ 2000 X-Yachts 382 .......................................... $130,000 37’ 2008 Beneteau 373 ............................................... CALL 37’ 2021 Excess 11 Catamaran - In Stock ............. CALL 37’ 2000 Jeanneau SO 37 .....................................$75,000

37’ 2007 Tartan 3700 CCR .................................. $249,000 37’ 1979 Tartan 37c - OFFERS!!! ..........................$39,000 37’ 2006 Tartan 3700............................................ $210,000 36’ 2005 Bavaria 36 ................................................$80,000 36’ 2003 Bavaria 36 ................................................$74,900 36’ 2008 Hunter 36 - Sabboth Bay ....................$78,000 36’ 2008 Hunter 36 - Free & Easy .......................$79,500 36’ 2019 Legacy 36 # 8 - Annapolis ............... $565,000 36’ 2003 PDQ 36 .................................................... $159,900 36’ 2021 Tartan 365 - April ........................................ CALL 35’ 1986 Baltic 35 .....................................................$69,000 34’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 349 - In Stock .................... CALL 34’ 1990 Pacific Seacraft Crealock 34 ................$89,000 34’ 2009 X-Yachts 34 ............................................ $137,000 33’ 2013 Marlow Hunter 33 ..................................$85,000 33’ 2015 Tartan 101 .............................................. $139,000 31’ 2015 Ranger Tug - Command Bridge ..... $249,900 30’ 2007 Mainship Pilot 30 II Rum Runner ......$89,500 27’ 1992 Nor’Sea 27 ...............................................$43,000 27’ 2018 Chris-Craft 27 Launch ........................ $112,500 26’ 2015 Colgate 26 ................................................$35,000 24’ 1989 Dana 24 .....................................................$49,000 21’ 1971 Crosby - Launch ......................................$48,000

CRUSADERYACHTS.COM Crusader MAG 1220.indd 1

11/18/20 2:01 AM

Located:Thomaston, ME

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UNBROKEN Although we have been burdened, our wanderlust spirits cannot be broken. With new sanitization and safety measures in place, and better days on the horizon, we invite you to return to pure bliss paradise and make new memories with the ones that matter most.

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