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The Travel Issue 2022

TRAVELISSUE

THE

20

5 7 ON BOATS

FROM THE EDITOR

Capt. John Page Williams takes the Bayliner Element M17 out for a run and finds a lot in a small package.

20 A BOUNTY OF BEACHES

The Bay has countless places to get in and enjoy.

Steve Adams narrows it down to 12 strands ideal for everything.

26

EXPLORE THE NANTICOKE

Get to know this intriguing region by road or by paddle.

By John Page WIlliams

34 WATERSHED MOMENTS 42 IN GOOD TASTE

34

Easton, Md., is getting national acclaim as a dining destination. Tim Ebner digs in.

Marty LeGrand takes us out along the Potomac to an intriguing collection of small towns.

48 51

THE SERENITY OF SMITH ISLAND Looking for a peaceful place to unplug?

Caroline Foster shares her favorite way to find it.

LIVING THE STORY

An intriguiging new partnership encourages a deeper understanding of our Bay heritage, from the people who live it. By Barbara Noe Kennedy

60 WORKSHOP WEEKENDS

Immerse youself in a hands-on workshop and come home with knowledge, and maybe even a new boat.

By Susan Moynihan

26

The Travel Issue 2022

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

3

the fun you'll have.

Volume 51

PUBLISHER

Number 12

John Stefancik Photo by Gordon Campbell-At Altitude Gallery

MANAGING EDITOR Chris Landers

CRUISING EDITOR: Jody Argo Schroath MULTIMEDIA JOURNALIST: Cheryl Costello CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Susan Moynihan EDITORS-AT-LARGE: Wendy Mitman Clarke,

Chris D. Dollar, Ann Levelle, John Page Williams CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Rafael Alvarez, Ann Eichenmuller, Robert Gustafson, Mark Hendricks, Marty LeGrand, Kate Livie, Nancy Taylor Robson, Charlie Youngmann

Experience first hand, why Captain John Smith called Onancock the gem of Virginia’s eastern shore.

ART DIRECTOR Caroline Foster

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Meg Walburn Viviano CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Mark L. Atwater, Skip Brown, André Chung, Dan Duffy, Jay Fleming, Austin Green, Jameson Harrington, Mark Hendricks Mark Hergan, Jill Jasuta, Vince Lupo, K.B. Moore, Will Parson, Caroline J. Phillips, Chris Witzgall

ExperienceOnancock.com

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Ogar

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING & CLIENT EXPERIENCE Krista Pfunder

ADVERTISING SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Michael Kucera • 804-543-2687 m.kucera@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Megan Tilley • 919-452-0833 megan@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com PUBLISHER EMERITUS

Richard J. Royer

CIRCULATION

Theresa Sise • 410-263-2662 office@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com CHESAPEAKE BAY MEDIA, LLC CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, John Martino EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Tara Davis 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403 410-263-2662 • fax 410-267-6924

• 245 FLOATING BOAT SLIPS & FUEL DOCK WITH PUMP-OUT • 30,000 SF OF WATERFRONT OFFICE SPACE • INDOOR & OUTDOOR WATERFRONT DINING • FULL-SERVICE BOAT YARD WITH 25 & 70 TON TRAVEL LIFTS

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 4

The Travel Issue 2022

• SLIP HOLDER AMENITIES: POOL, SAUNA, FITNESS CENTER, WIFI & DISCOUNTS • LIBBEY’S COASTAL KITCHEN & COCKTAILS OPENING SPRING 22

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com EDITORIAL: editor@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com CIRCULATION: circ@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com BILLING: billing@ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

Chesapeake Bay Magazine (ISSN0045-656X) (USPS 531-470) is published by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC, 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. $25.95 per year, 12 issues annually. $7.99 per copy. Periodical postage paid at Annapolis, MD 21403 and additional offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes or corrections for Chesapeake Bay Magazine to 601 Sixth Street, Annapolis, MD 21403. Copyright 2021 by Chesapeake Bay Media, LLC— Printed in the U.S.A.

FROM THE EDITOR

Let’s Hit the Road!

by Susan Moynihan

W

THE ULTIMATE GIFT FOR OYSTER LOVERS THE ULTIMATE OYST

elcome to Chesapeake Bay Magazine’s first annual Travel Issue! As always, our mission is is to celebrate life around the Bay—its heritage and history, its people, and its unique culture. With this issue, we wanted to showcase different ways to get out and explore, and maybe discover something new about the region we all love.

The Chesapeake Bay shoreline spans an estimated 11,684 miles, including the Bay itself, along with the rivers and tributaries that feed it on its way down to the Atlantic. This means that we have more shoreline than the entire West Coast, right in our backyard. Which can be a little overwhelming when you’re trying to decide where to go to enjoy some beach time. In “A Bounty of Beaches” on page 20, we narrow it down by suggesting a dozen strands around the Bay that are great for everything from hanging with kiddos to lively, adult-centric weekends to discovering places that are best explored by paddle.

We also take a closer look at two of the major rivers that feed our Bay. The Nanticoke River flows from Delaware into Maryland, with myriad launch spots Over 1 MILLION oysters opened without along the way ideal for smaller watercraft. In “Exploring the Nanticoke” on page Over 1 MILLION oysters Opens horizontally, keeps ju 26, you can uncover the legacy of shipbuilding and trade, and find undeveloped opened without injury!can ope Now ANYONE stretches that look pretty much as they did centuries ago. Or head west in 207-592-4775 • www.awshuck “Watershed Moments” on page 42. Along the upper Potomac River and its tributaries, you’ll find charming towns that showcase a different aspects of regional culture, along with outdoor pursuits from hiking to fly fishing.

Traveling works up an appetite so on page 34 we take a closer look at Easton, on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, which is gaining a national reputation as a destination for foodies. And if you want to challenge yourself, turn to “Workshop Weekends” on page 60 for intensive, hands-on workshop experiences that cater to passions from boat building to whiskey tasting. If it’s peace and quiet that you seek, our art director Caroline Foster tells you how to find it in “The Serenity of Smith Island” on page 48.

Most of all, travel is about the people you meet along the way—especially the small companies that use tourism as a way to teach visitors about their part of the world. That’s what’s so intriguing about the new Chesapeake Storytellers program, run jointly by the Maryland Department of Commerce and Tourism and the Over 1 MILLION oysters opened without injury!SAFE, FAST, SAFE, EASY! FAST, EASY! National Park Service. This innovative campaign brings a personal take to touring, keeps juices in the shell. be it with sailing charters or food tours that take Opens you into thehorizontally, homes of the watermen and women who are so vital to our shared experience of life by the Bay. Now ANYONE can open oysters!

In “Living the Story” on page 51, we talk to the people who are sharing lives, Opens horizontally, 207-592-4775 • their www.awshucksoysteropener.com and see how it empowers them as much as it helps educate visitors. keeps juices If you’re anything like me, you’ll find that the more time you spend exploring in the shell our region, the less you want to go anywhere else. To that end, keep an eye out for Now ANYONE our summer Weekends on the Water issue, dedicated to all things cruising. Until can SAFELY then, see you on the road! open oysters!

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ON BOATS

Bayliner Element M17

by Capt. John Page Williams

Bayliner Element M17 LOA: 17' Beam: 7'6" Draft: 12" Weight: 1,740 lbs Transom Deadrise: 16º

COURTESY PHOTOS

Fuel Capacity: 18 gal Persons Capacity: 1,000 lbs Max Power: 90 hp For more information, contact Prince William Marina in Woodbridge, Va. (www.pwmarina. com) and Riverside Marine in Essex, Md. (www.riversideboats.com).

F

or this travel-themed issue of Chesapeake Bay Magazine, On Boats offers Bayliner’s new Element M17. Why? Well, it’s roomy and stable enough to carry six adults or a family but relatively inexpensive, fuel-efficient, simple to care for, and most of all, it's easy to tow to launch ramps all over the Chesapeake behind a mid-sized SUV or small pickup.

The M17 qualifies as a small deckboat because its M-hull shape carries the beam forward, creating a spacious bow compartment for two forward-facing lounges or seating for four. The cockpit offers a helm console to starboard, with the skipper sitting on

an upholstered bench that extends across the transom. In place of a port console is an aft-facing seat. A square cushion can drop into the space between it and the aft bench to create a lounge. The after side of the transom has a pair of cushioned seats molded in port and starboard for lounging while at anchor or beached. The loungers’ feet fall naturally onto the two swim platforms on either side of the outboard. The starboard platform holds a telescoping stainless swim ladder with a handy grab handle molded into its base. In between the two lounge seats, there is a molded-in cooler for food and beverage, and just behind it, The Travel Issue

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

7

Clockwise from above: The small Bayliner packs a lot of seating options, including forward lounges; an aft-facing port-side seat by the helm; and cushioned seats astern as part of the twin swim platforms.

a sturdy mount for a ski pylon. Bayliner places cupholders and grab handles in appropriate locations throughout the boat. Storage includes space inside the two consoles, in open wells on top of the consoles, and under the bow seats.

True to deckboat tradition, this overall layout makes the Element M17 a good choice for exploring new waters, swimming and tubing, and enjoying picnics or sunset cruises. While the standard Mercury 60 EFI Four-Stroke is superb engine (I own one and love it), it’s too small for most uses of the M17.

The best choice is the Merc 90 EFI Four-Stroke that powered our test boat.

It’s strong, smooth, quiet, and efficient, with the right amount of shove to carry six people or tow tubes, boards, and skis. The stock propeller is a Mercury Spitfire aluminum four-blade, which offers great lift, acceleration under load, and trim control (my Merc 60 runs one).

Nevertheless, there are qualifiers.

The M-hull is inherently stable, a characteristic we noted while drifting side-to a 1–2' chop in the Potomac off the mouth of the Occoquan River below Mason Neck. The trade-off is that the broad center section of the hull came 8

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

down hard in that chop if driven fast.

It’s a typical afternoon condition on the broad sections of the Chesapeake’s tidal rivers, so the M17 requires some adjustments to be comfortable.

First, there’s the issue of balance.

Bayliner’s engineers have mounted the 18-gallon fuel tank and the battery under the transom seats, with the cooler between them, and the helm seat is far aft, essentially in the cockpit.

With DJ Phillips of Prince William Marina and me sitting there, our tester was stern-heavy, causing the bow to rise high enough as the boat climbed onto plane that we lost sight of the water ahead. The situation improved

The Travel Issue 2022

greatly when DJ moved to the port bow lounge. Adjusting passengers’ seating locations will be critical to satisfactory performance. Storing normal gear such as skis, tools, first aid kit, and anchoring gear on board in the two compartments under the bow lounges will also help counteract the weight in the stern. With the test boat’s balance adjusted, the Merc popped it up onto plane quickly with minimal bow rise and good sight-lines. The Spitfire propeller helped the rig stay on plane down to around 10 mph, which eased the ride into the Potomac’s wind-driven chop. That capacity to stay on top comfortably at low speeds will be important for an

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The Travel Issue

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owner sooner or later when confronted with a run home in a typical Chesapeake afternoon southerly breeze. Running with the wind in the more protected water of Belmont Bay, the boat topped out at 36 mph and cruised happily at speeds throughout the 20s. Acceleration is strong enough to make sure passengers make use of the well-placed grab handles.

Balance played a role in one last trick on test day. At lower planing speeds running into quartering seas, the M-hull threw spray up high enough for wind to blow it aboard until DJ and I shifted our weight. That move raised the windward side a bit, which helped damp the spray and smooth out the ride. On a larger boat, trim tabs come in handy for adjusting side-to-side trim, but on a boat like the M17, careful weight-shifting works just fine.

One aspect of the M17 was too

simple, though: The dash includes an analog speedometer with gas gauge and voltmeter but no tachometer. In addition, the speedometer proved to be off by about five mph at higher rates but did not begin reading until about 15 mph. Yes, the Element M17 is considered a good boat for beginners, but part of learning safe boating is paying attention to getting the best performance out of a hull and its engine. Having a tach to match engine rpms with operational “feel” is fundamental to that process.

Fortunately, Mercury and Bayliner (both brands of Brunswick Corporation) offer a solution: the optional VesselView Mobile system. It’s actually a smartphone app, so it’ll require a dash mount for the phone (which preferably has a splash-proof cover). VesselView is a Mercury SmartCraft system that provides

comprehensive engine information including not only rpm but also fuel consumption (instantaneous and cumulative), operating temperature, and engine hours—all useful for learning to operate and maintain a significant investment like the Merc 90.

In addition, the phone can become an instrument for at least rough navigation with an inexpensive annual subscription to a C-MAP or Navionics charting app (around $15).

For those who might be tempted to question the quality of Bayliner boats, please understand that whatever the brand’s history (the company is celebrating its 65th anniversary this year), under Brunswick’s ownership, it has won seven consecutive Customer Satisfaction Index awards from the National Marine Manufacturers Association. Both of its Chesapeake dealers, Prince William Marina in

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The Travel Issue 2022

Woodbridge, Va., and Riverside Marine in Essex, Md., are multigenerational family businesses with strong reputations for good service.

Both report minimal problems with warranty claims on their customers’ Bayliners.

So how does Bayliner keep the cost of an Element 17 down?

Construction is simple. For example, the seat cushions fit over storage areas but drop into place without hinges, which saves not only hardware but also assembly time in the plant. The base model is stripped down, as a look at the company website’s Build & Price section will reveal. Our test boat, which had just been sold, included the M Comfort Package ($3,125), including a 6' Bimini top with boot, a 500 gph-automatic bilge pump, hydraulic steering, a waterproof 120-Watt AM/ FM stereo with Bluetooth, a snap-on bow well and cockpit cover, a ski tow pylon, a bow filler cushion, stainlesssteel fittings, and a port-side lounge seat. It also included twin acrylic windscreens ($260); SeaDek cushioned, nonskid cockpit flooring ($725); and a digital depth sounder in the dash ($360). To those options, I recommend adding a galvanized trailer ($290, instead of the standard painted one) and the aforementioned VesselView Mobile engine data system ($250). All told, the MSRP for such an Element M17 would be $30,265 excluding dealer preparation fees, taxes, registration fees, or other fees that may apply. It makes a nice, multi-purpose package for exploring the waterways in this TRAVEL issue of Chesapeake Bay Magazine. See you on the river!

CBM Editor-at-Large, educator, guide, and author of three quintessential Chesapeake Bay books, Capt. John Page Williams was named a Maryland Admiral of the Bay in 2013.

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13

SPONSORED CONTENT

BOATS NOT TO MISS

BOATS NOT TO MISS D

14

epending on how you look at it, the pandemic was

year (or more) for delivery!” This is not necessarily true

either a blessing or a curse for the boating industry.

of all dealers and manufacturers, as some adapted well

Manufacturers received the highest number of orders

to the post-pandemic waterfall of orders and adjusted

for new vessels since the 2000s, and perhaps the most

to the remarkable increase in demand. Some dealers

ever from first-time buyers. If you have recently visited a

on the Chesapeake, in fact, have boats on their lots,

dealership, been to a boat show recently, or spoke with

so call around. Other dealers are not selling anything

friends who may be in the market for a new boat, you

in stock, so they can provide you any number of hull

likely heard the same from all. “There’s quite a backlog

colors, accessories, engine configurations and even

in orders, no matter what the brand, and in the supply

revolutionary new items such as stabilizers. Here’s a

chain for all kinds of items. New boats may take up to a

preview of boats to explore this spring.

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2021

(800) 216-BOAT pwmarina.com

BOATS NOT TO MISS

SPONSORED CONTENT

Valhalla V-41 Created, owned and operated by the Viking Yacht Company, Valhalla Boatworks has established itself as a leader in building semi-custom, high-performance luxury center consoles. The design traits of Viking convertibles can be seen throughout. Proud bows, gently sloping S-shaped sheers, double forward chines, helm pods, raised toe rails, and mezzanine seating are some of the hallmarks.

Currently, they offer four models from 33' to 46', and there’s a 55' in the works. With their 41', they’ve tried to create the best big center console on the market—an excellent fishing platform with accommodating speed, range, and overall performance. They offer the V-41 with multiple options for power. No matter the brand or engine size, each application can be configured for joystick helm control with GPS stationkeeping technology. Bluewater Yacht Sales | www.bluewateryachts.com | 877-269-3021

Stamas 33T Aventura One ride across the choppy Chesapeake and you’ll feel how the Aventura smooths out the bumps. With a curvaceous flare up forward and a transom deadrise at 24 degrees, this boat offers seakindly performance for offshore adventures. The 33T is a new center console from the venerable manufacturer, currently producing models 29'–39'. In business since 1952, Stamas builds each boat to order, emphasizing quality of over quantity and allowing for a level of construction typically found in custom builders. Stamas hulls are built to be consistent and strong, and claim a superior layup and uniformity of lamination, with decks that have a “continuous core” instead of just reinforced hardware. All of this comes with a 7-year structural warranty on the hull. The 33T also comes with a powerplant of 350hp outboards which cruises the boat comfortably at 31.2 mph. Annapolis Yacht Sales | www.annapolisyachtsales.com | 410-267-8181

October 2021

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15

BOATS NOT TO MISS Pardo 38 The Italy-based Cantiere del Pardo, known since the early 1970s for its Grand Soleil sailboats, began building walk-around cruisers in 2017. The Pardo 38 looks much the same as the two other models in the line (43' and 50'), as they share a reverse bow with anchor cradles that pop out of the hull. They feature teak rails, carbon fiber center consoles and T-tops, cockpit galleys, sun pads fore and aft, and the 38 has it all produced in an elegant and comfortable package. Pardo Yachts says they build boats for sophisticated owners who appreciate high quality, top design, luxury and comfort— and this is what you notice first when you step aboard or view from the dock. Below deck is a bright interior which can be configured with two different layouts: one cabin with a double bed and a separate shower/head area, or with a second cabin with two single beds. Propulsion choices include twin sterndrives, or twin or triple outboards, providing top-end speeds from the mid-30s to the low-50-knot range. Chesapeake Yacht Center | www.cyc.yachts | 410-823-2628

Tiara 43 LS The Tiara 43 LS combines the aesthetic of sport styling with the amenities and details synonymous with the Tiara brand. Onboard, guests can choose from multiple social zones for relaxation and leisure. The helm seats four comfortably, with standing room and a leaning bolster just aft, providing a secure space while underway. A side boarding door located portside presents access to water activities. There’s an innovative aft U-lounge which rotates 180 degrees, allowing for a view of the scenery or enjoyment of the swim platform. Entertain everyone aboard from the galley, equipped with sink, refrigerator, and large countertop. Below deck, comfortable accommodations for four await. Mercury power combined with joystick piloting (and autopilot) provides comfort and control at the helm. A top speed over 50 mph gets you to your favorite port of call fast! North Point Yacht Sales | www.northpointyachtsales.com | 410-280-2038

16

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com

October 2021

SPONSORED CONTENT

Boston Whaler 250 Dauntless For boaters seeking a higher-quality bay boat experience, the all-new 250 Dauntless raises the bar. Smooth-riding performance and a spacious center console layout combine with amenities for fishing, watersports, comfortable offshore cruising, and beyond. From the inviting bow lounge to the sleek, redesigned hull, the 250 will take you wherever you’d like to go on the Chesapeake—in just about any condition!

Available with a choice of Mercury power options. Chesapeake Whalertowne | www.whalertowne.com | 410-827-8080

Sea Pro 259 Deep-V The second largest in Sea Pro’s fleet of South Carolina-made handcrafted boats, the 259 combines modern design and performance —offering families and serious fisherman alike an incredible experience on the water. Purposely designed for rugged capability in the roughest of conditions, including features for comfortable cruising with family and friends. This boat has broad appeal and is certain to impress. Tri-State Marine | www.tristatemarine.com | 410-867-1447

October 2021

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A Bounty of Top spots around the Bay for swimming, paddling, history, and more

by Steve Adams

k

F

rom Havre de Grace, Md., to Virginia Beach, the Chesapeake Bay watershed’s 11,684 miles of shoreline offer plenty of places to jump, launch, or wade in. The Chesapeake Bay Program lists 1,278 public access points, defined as “places anyone can visit to swim, hike, paddle, or simply enjoy the history and natural beauty of the Chesapeake.” Naturally, some of the most desirable of these sites are beaches: the stretches of sand that, whatever their shape or size, open the door to a laundry list of activities. The trick, of course, is knowing where to go for the type of experience you seek. To get you started, here are a dozen strands to consider when “beaching” on the Bay.

For (Jellyfish-Free) Swimming: Betterton Beach, Betterton, Md.

ry t r O Elk Neck State Park, North East, Md. This state park sits on a peninsula separating the Elk River from the Bay. The swimmable beach is in the northeast section of the park, adjacent to the parking lot. Or take a hike out to Turkey Point Lighthouse, which sits on a 100-foot bluff overlooking the Bay. From May through October, you can climb to the top.

Betterton Beach

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Swimming in the Bay is almost always a good time, but there’s one thing that can quickly ruin it: a run-in with a Chrysaora chesapeakei or Chrysaora quinquecirrha—the species of sea nettles most commonly found in the Bay during summer. To help the public know “where and when to expect this biotic nuisance,” the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Ocean Prediction Center maintains a website predicting jellies’ presence throughout the Bay, at ocean.weather.gov/ Loops/SeaNettles/prob/SeaNettles.php.

As a general rule of thumb, your best bet for avoiding jellies is heading to the upper Bay, where the water is lower in salinity. Which brings us to Betterton Beach.

Located in Kent County, Betterton boasts 300 feet of sandy beach frontage running along surf that regularly receives an infusion of fresh, anti-jelly water from the nearby Sassafras River. Beyond this huge draw for those who love to swim sans stings, the beach also features 700 feet of shoreline access, 500 feet of boardwalk, a picnic pavilion, a stone fishing jetty, and a transient boat launching ramp—plus plentiful parking, a bathhouse with public restrooms, and no admittance fee.

For the Dogs: Quiet Waters Park Dog Beach, Annapolis If you’re focused on finding a great swimming spot for Fido, you’ll be pleased to discover that many state and county parks offer dog-friendly beaches—as long as the pooches are leashed and you’re prepped with a poop bag.

But if you’re looking for a beach made exclusively for off-leash dogs, the can’t-miss destination can be found at Quiet Waters Park.

Located right on the South River in Annapolis, Quiet Waters’ dog beach is accessible by either stairs or a sloped path, and is open to dogs of any breed and size. It’s also great for dogs of all swimming abilities, as the less experienced can stay behind the stone barriers of Loden Pond, sheltered from breaking waves, and the more adventurous can venture into the river proper. Adding to the attraction, the park provides dog waste stations near the beach, a rinse-off station and restrooms (for humans) near the parking lot, and a huge, fenced dog park (one side for bigs, one for littles) that you and your pup can visit on the way to or from your swim.

ry Or t

Jamestown Beach Event Park, Williamsburg, Va. Located near historic Jamestown Settlement, this beach beckons with shady pines, a picnic area with charcoal grills and tables, a concession stand (ice cream!) that also has restrooms, and a surprising lack of people most of the time. Leashed dogs are allowed anywhere at the park, or you can head to the off-leash section to let them run free. Kayaks are available in summer season should your doggy want to pass off the paddling to you.

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For Family-Friendly Fun: North Beach, Md. For those seeking a nice site for sunning and swimming, it’s easy to make any beach day a great one, regardless of location, as long as the weather behaves and you come prepared with sunscreen, snacks, and the like. But for parents worried about their children’s patience—and their own patience with their impatient children—finding a family-friendly beach is key.

Located in the northeast corner of Calvert County, the town of North Beach offers a big and beautiful—and, unlike most Bay beaches, groomed—beach, featuring a pirate-ship playground and restrooms with showers.

Nearby you’ll find a host of boredom-fighting amenities and activities including a seven-block-long boardwalk and bike path; a modern fishing pier; and rental shops offering floats, kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles. There are also plenty of shops and restaurants within easy walking distance. Beach access is free from October through April; all other times, visitors who aren’t North Beach residents will need to pay a day fee: $25/adult and $10/child for out-of-county visitors, and $9 and $6 respectively for county residents.

Yorktown Beach

ry t r O Yorktown Beach, Va.

North Beach

For fee-free, family-friendly fun in the sun, Yorktown’s two-acre beachfront is a great choice. Along with views up and down the York River, the beach offers picnic areas, restrooms, and not only a “Mobi-Mat” that accommodates walkers, strollers, and wheelchairs but also a “Mobi-Chair” (a beach-friendly wheelchair) that’s available for use by guests with disabilities. And, just as at North Beach, there are nearby activities aplenty, including a fishing pier and mile-long pedestrian Riverwalk; kayak, paddleboard, bike, and Segway rentals; shops and restaurants; and pirate-themed (or standard) cruises on Schooner Alliance, a 105-foot, gaff-rigged charter schooner. There’s even free public parking and trolley service.

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For Adult-Friendly Distractions: Lowes Wharf Marina Inn, Sherwood, Md.

Lowes Wharf Marina Inn

Sunset Beach, Cape Charles

As all good Chesapeakers know, it doesn’t take much for adults to have a great day at the beach.

The basic equation: sun + good company = fun.

Of course, you can always dial it up a notch by adding some additional adult-friendly factors: a cold drink (or two) in your hands, good food in your belly, music in your ears, and some up-close water views.

One place where you can get all this and more? Lowes Wharf Marina Inn. Located roughly halfway between St. Michaels and Tilghman Island on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, “The Wharf” is a marina-inn-restaurant-bar hybrid that sits at the end of a peninsula. Surrounding two sides of the building is a huge manmade beach that offers everything you could ask for: plentiful reclining chairs and picnic tables with umbrellas; on-sand volleyball, cornhole, and ring toss; a bonfire pit; and a bulkhead ladder for swimming. There are also numerous mooring balls; great food and drinks at the restaurant, food truck, and tiki bar; and live music on the weekends. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a few summer hours. Or you can make a weekend out of it by booking one of six no-frills rooms at the inn.

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The Jackspot at Sunset Beach, Cape Charles, Va. Bring your beach chairs, sunscreen, and even your dog to this private beach, part of the Sunset Beach hotel complex. The onsite restaurant serves up casual fare like burgers and steamed seafood, perfectly paired with an ice-cold beer or frozen cocktail on a hot summer day. And everything seems even better knowing you’re not stuck in traffic at the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, just a few miles away.

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First Landing State Park, Virginia Beach

For History Lovers: First Landing State Park, Virginia Beach, Va. If you’re equally focused on education and entertainment, you’re in luck, as nearly every stretch of sand along the Bay is steeped in history. One of the most interesting is the one-and-a-half mile-long beach at First Landing State Park, which claims its name as the site where English colonists first landed in 1607.

Located at the northernmost tip of Virginia Beach and the southernmost point of the Chesapeake Bay, the 2,888-acre park is a National Natural Landmark and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Whether gazing out from the tawny beach or hiking some of the 20 miles of trails that weave through the park’s bald cypress swamps, lagoons, and forest, it’s easy to imagine all types of vessels—Native American canoes, 18th-century pirate ships (allegedly including some of Blackbeard’s), and military ships from the Revolution through the Civil War—navigating up the Bay, making a quick stop to access the swamp’s fresh water, or landing for a long-term stay. The onsite Chesapeake Bay Center houses a wide array of exhibits to educate visitors on the site’s history, and the park offers cabins, yurts, and campsites so that the public can have a vicarious experience of living off the land. Just be sure to plan your trip well ahead of time, even if not staying overnight; First Landing is Virginia’s most-visited state park and they turn away guests when parking reaches capacity.

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Point Lookout State Park, Scotland, Md. This peaceful preserve located on the southern tip of St. Mary’s County has a fascinating history, having served at various times as a Confederate POW camp and as a seaside resort in the 1870s and again beginning in the 1920s. Visit the Civil War museum, open on weekends from May through October, and make plans to tour the Point Lookout Lighthouse when it reopens after extensive renovation, hopefully by the end of 2022. There’s also a 710-foot fishing pier; beach area with grills, picnic tables and a playground; 143 camp sites; and nearby boat rentals.

For Paddlers: Janes Island State Park, Crisfield, Md. Located just outside of Crisfield, on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, Janes Island State Park offers two distinct environments: a 300-acre mainland section and a 2,900-acre “island section” of saltmarsh. On the former, you can spot terrestrial plants and animals while walking foot trails through the woods; relaxing at the park’s picnic areas and pavilions; visiting its nature center and observation tower; or camping at one of its 100+ campsites. On the latter, you can observe all sorts of birds, fish, and other saltmarsh dwellers while paddling your kayak, canoe, or paddleboard on the park’s seven marked water trails—trails that, traversing more than 30 cumulative miles along Tangier Sound, the Big and Little Annemessex Rivers, and various smaller creeks, have been named among North America’s best due to the variety they offer paddlers of all levels in terms of length and navigation.

Off the water, you can wander miles of white-sand beach that overlook Tangier Sound.

ry t r O

New Point Comfort Natural Area Preserve, Port Haywood, Va.

Janes Island State Park, Crisfield

New Point Comfort Lighthouse, Port Hayward

The 63-foot-high New Point Comfort Lighthouse is the third oldest on the Bay, built on the southernmost point of Mathews, Va. in 1805. But due to shifting geology (and a 1993 hurricane), it now sits on an island, so the best and only way to see it up close is by kayak or SUP. The surrounding 105 acres are home to tidal mudflats, low woodlands, and pristine beaches—kept that way because the only way you can see them is from above, via the boardwalk, or by the water.

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EXPLORING THE

Nanticoke This easily navigable waterway is a treasure trove of history and natural beauty

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STEPHEN BADGER /MD DNR

ver the years, I’ve explored Delmarva’s Nanticoke River by canoe, skiff, and trawler. The river is lovely in spring, and communities around it cater to driving tourists, but they also offer plenty of opportunities for walking scenic trails, pedaling interesting byways, and exploring undeveloped waterways. What's most interesting to me are the ways in which the Nanticoke’s natural resources have woven together with us humans over the past 1,000 years.

JOEL DUNN

O

By John Page Williams

This river drains a large, heavily wooded watershed on the west side of Delaware’s Sussex County and the interior of Maryland’s Dorchester, Caroline, and Wicomico Counties. Its two big tributaries, Marshyhope and Broad creeks, drain land to the north and east of the main stem, respectively.

The land is low, with the river and the two creeks flooding bottomland forests.

They also grow expansive tidal freshwater marshes full of wild rice and other plants valuable for wildlife. The woods, marshes, and waters formed rich habitat for Nanticoke people for several millennia, first for nomadic hunting and fishing, but then for Late Woodland

people, who began to settle along it and farm as well as fish and hunt.

Over the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, English communities sprang up at the heads of navigation on the Nanticoke’s three branches: Federalsburg, Md., on Marshyhope Creek; Seaford, Del., on the main stem; and Laurel, Del., on Broad Creek. From the mid-eighteenth century till the early twentieth, the local forest resources encouraged shipbuilding in all three towns, as well as nearby Bethel, Del., and Vienna, Md. Forestry and farming became the region’s primary industries, along with allied industries like sawmills and, after 1865, produce canneries. 

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BILL MISH

RESTOREHANDSELL.ORG

Vienna, Md.

Founded in 1758, this quiet town is one of the oldest colonial settlements in Maryland. Visit the circa-1768 Customs House, Handsell historic site, Layton's Chance Vineyard, and the lovely waterfront park.

Schooners (many built locally in Bethel) carried goods and people to Baltimore, Norfolk, and Washington, D.C. As you set off to explore the Nanticoke, use the towns as literal launch points. I like an itinerary that jumps off from Vienna, Md. This classic Chesapeake river town is situated on high land next to deep water on the outside of one of the Nanticoke’s sinuous curves, which makes it a great launch point for paddlecraft and small powerboats. The town is easy to find on Route 50, about halfway between Cambridge and Salisbury. It’s also home to Handsell, an open-air museum on the National Register of Historic Places that tells the story of the Native Tribes, English settlers, and enslaved people who all lived here over the centuries.

To head out on the water, launch at Emperor’s Landing Park, named for the Chief of the Nanticoke Tribe, whom Captain John Smith met near here in June 1608. Watch for the powerful

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Take a leisurely stroll along the world’s greatest natural harbor, or grab your The Travel Issue 2022 fishing gear and cast a line on Hampton’s public pier.

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current that sweeps through and look out for larger boats, especially if you’re paddling. The water is strongly tidal but just barely brackish here. Whichever way the current is running, paddle upriver under the bridge, and look to the left (north) for the mouth of Chicone Creek, flanked by broad marshes. Enter the narrow creek and follow its channel around to the right, keeping an eye out for ospreys, bald eagles, and great blue herons. The creek gets fresher upstream and enters a pristine wooded preserve owned and managed by the Maryland Department of Natural Resources.

In a powerboat, you can run up the river a couple of miles to the junction with its big northwest branch, Marshyhope Creek. It is narrow and wooded but surprisingly deep. A quarter-mile up Marshyhope, on the left, is Walnut Landing, an unassuming dock on the outside of a curve to our left. Now owned by The Nature Conservancy, it was once used by the notorious early eighteenth-century slaver Patty Cannon, who used it to ply her gruesome trade with her gang before her capture and death in prison. In an ironic nod to justice, Harriet Tubman operated part of her Underground Railroad out of here some forty years later.

Moving along through the S-curve, you’ll notice a small beach with a 20'-high sandy bank on the right. This is Redbank, another landing once favored by the Nanticoke but for the past sixty years part of the Nanticoke’s Henson Scout Reservation. Close by the shore, a depth-finder shows us 40' of water. The Marshyhope drains a large watershed to the north, and “creek” or not, its flow is powerful. That current is part of what makes this tributary a one of the Chesapeake’s few spawning grounds for endangered Atlantic sturgeon.

Of course, Vienna is just one option, and there are plenty of other launch points from which to explore the Nanticoke. In Seaford, Del., set out from the new Oyster House Park just by Riverview Park. Built on the site of a

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former oyster packing plant, it offers a kayak launch and short-term docking facilities if you want to stroll the Riverwalk or visit the Seaford Museum, set in a restored 1930s post office.

Further phases will include an open-air amphitheater, art space in two reimagined oyster houses, and a Nanticoke tribal ring for riverside ceremonies.

In Bethel, you can still see the old wharf timbers in Broad Creek where so many schooners were built and launched. (The Chesapeake Ram schooner Victory Chimes was built here in 1900, and still operates out of Rockland, Maine, as part of the Maine Windjammer Association.) You can learn a bit about the shipbuilding industry at the Bethel Maritime Museum (call ahead for hours), and the nearby Bethel Store makes great sandwiches.

A few miles west of town is the recently expanded Phillips Landing Boating and Fishing Access Area, which has a three-lane boat ramp, two floating docks, and a canoe/kayak launch. It opens to the mouth of Broad Creek just before it meets the Nanticoke.

The stories along the river run the historical gamut from the Native tribes

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BETHEL HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Finally… the perfect Oyster Opener

SEAFORD HISTORICAL SOCIETY

Set near the Nanticoke headwaters, this town has a long history as a crossroads for trade by rail and ferry. Stroll the Riverwalk, tour the VictorianItalianate Gov. Ross Mansion, and visit Seaford Museum.

MORE RESOURCES For basic perspective, read about the Sentinel Landscape Nanticoke Project at chesapeakeconservancy.org.

For overall on-the-water itinerary suggestions and maps, visit paddlethenanticoke.com.

For an overall view of Delaware’s Nanticoke, head to nanticokeheritagebyway.org.

For a modern, richly worded and photographed look at this waterway jewel, browse The Nanticoke: Portrait of a Chesapeake River by David W. Harp and Tom Horton.

and Captain John Smith to nineteenthcentury steamboats and the DuPont Company’s first nylon plant in Seaford.

Please understand, though, that while this sketch offers some focal points, exploring the Nanticoke—by whatever mode you choose—is at least as much about the journey as the destination, and more about discovery than “seeing the sights.”

MARYLAND DNR

PADDLETHENANTICOKE.COM

The entire downtown of this 19th-century shipbuilding center is on the National Historic Register. Take in the Victorian homes and visit the Bethel Maritime Museum before launching at the Phillips Landing Boating and Fishing Access Area.

PADDLETHENANTICOKE.COM

Bethel, DEl.

As you work out your plan to explore the Nanticoke, use the aforementioned towns and Seaford as focal points. Online, I particularly like Google Earth Pro for scouting trips on both land and water. Another remarkable tool is the Chesapeake Conservancy’s virtual tour of the Nanticoke, offered in partnership with videographers at terrain360.com.

The Nanticoke and its tributaries remain largely natural, thanks to major efforts over the past fifty years by the Conservation Fund, the Nature

Conservancy, the Nanticoke Watershed Alliance, and the Chesapeake Conservancy. In an effort to preserve these resources, this team of partners has worked with state and federal agencies to create a corridor of protected land that retains the value of its existing resources.

To date, this partnership has protected 19,300 acres of the Nanticoke watershed, ripe for exploring and enjoying.

CBM Editor-at-Large John Page Williams is a fishing guide, educator, author, and naturalist, saving the Bay since 1973.

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CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS

In Good Taste 34

A slew of chefs and an enthusiastic community have transformed Easton into a top dining destination

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BY TIM EBNER

I

D BRYANT

JAY FLEMING

and local cuisine,” he says.

It can be easy “Easton is also filled with several to bypass Easton independent restaurants offering along Maryland’s their own unique take on Eastern bustling Route 50 Shore cuisine. We welcome corridor. After all, the diversity and have a passion for highway is the main route from sharing our cuisine, impeccable D.C., Baltimore, Philadelphia, and service, unique dining Scotch eggs at Hunters' Tavern beyond to points south and east experience, and history with along Maryland’s Eastern Shore, everyone who walks bringing throngs of through our doors.” beachgoers and tourists As the signature to waterside retreats in restaurant of the serene settings like St. historic Tidewater Inn, Michaels, Tilghman Hunters’ Tavern Island, or Oxford, or embodies comfortbeach vacations along food cooking. It’s well the Atlantic. But skip known as a restaurant Easton and your stomach for special celebrations may regret it. What this and family gatherings, central spot may lack in but locals also flock Chesapeake Bay views here for more casual or pristine beaches, it affairs. Their outdoor more than makes up for Decanter Room at Hunters' Tavern patio overlooking the with a top-notch dining heart of downtown is scene unlike anything else on the Eastern Shore. an especially festive place to gather for Sunday brunch, By its very location, Easton has a strategic advantage ideally with a mimosa or Old Bay Bloody Mary in hand. for creative chefs looking to open a restaurant away from And while there are oysters and crab dip on the an urban center. The town is located between farms and menu—this is the Bay, after all—Pochron is experimenting the water, which means direct access to some of the with a menu that brings together the regional influences of freshest produce and seafood in the region. Easton is also the Eastern Shore with other food-centric destinations, such home to a popular farmers market, open every Saturday as Louisiana. “I believe Hunters’ Tavern defines itself as a from April to December, rain or shine, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Southern-style restaurant with European influence,” he That access, plus its inherent hospitality, makes Easton says. “For instance, the turtle soup has been on the menu stand out from other locales, argues Daniel Pochron, for well over 50 years, [and it] derives from the South, and Executive Chef of Hunters’ Tavern. “You’ll find a variety of New Orleans Creole cuisine.”  fresh ingredients that are cultivated for delicious, unique,

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Another dish setting them apart is a more technical take on fried chicken. Pochron sous vides his chicken, cooking it low and slow for maximum juiciness, and serves it alongside a side of braised collards, butternut squash bacon hash, and tomato gravy. “There are also so many other wonderful dining options in Easton where you can get a one-of-a-kind experience, making it a destination for all types of food and drink lovers,” says Pochron. “You are getting food here that you aren’t getting everywhere else.”

NEW CHEFS AND COMMUNITY SUPPORT

One of the more recent dynamics fueling Easton’s epicurean boom is chefs who are crossing the Bay Bridge to open new restaurants in a community eager to embrace them. Tiger Lily is the latest example of this trend. It comes from Executive Chef Tyler Heim and General Manager Austin Smale, who got his start working in restaurants in Annapolis, including Vin 909 and Level. In October 2021, Smale helped open this new bar/restaurant hybrid focused on hyper-seasonal ingredients, with a mission to serve the freshest tacos on the Eastern Shore.

“This is definitely a taco-driven menu, with more than a half-dozen options, and subtle influences from cuisines found in South America and Asia,” Smale says. “Each taco plays a role on the menu with deliberate flavor profiles, from a chili-braised brisket taco to one stuffed with roasted sweet potatoes, plus fish and shrimp tacos.”

There is a taco to match any mood here, and Tiger Lily pairs these perfectly with tiki cocktails, which are quick to

Daniel Pochron

After School tacos at Tiger Lily

EXECUTIVE CHEF HUNTERS’ TAVERN

“You are getting food here that you aren’t getting everywhere else.”

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Austin Smale Ketan “K ” Patel Tyler Heim TIGER LILY

“I think it’s to the credit of this community, which has been so supportive of us from the start.”

capture your eye, too. On the drink menu, you’ll find small-batch mezcals, spicy margaritas, and brightly colored tiki drinks with exuberant finishes, including a few flamegarnished cocktails. “We’re trying to create drinks with balance but also have fun with the experience too,” Smale says. Tiger Lily quickly gained a devoted following in just a few short months. “I think it’s to the credit of this community, which has been so supportive of us from the start.”

Customer loyalty is also how Emily Chandler, the owner of Piazza Italian Market, has stayed in business for over a decade. Chandler originally hails from Northern Virginia and moved to Easton 13 years ago to deliver a taste of Italy to the Eastern Shore. Tasty goods at her combination cafe/shop include hearty lasagnas, freshly made paninis, and a pantry of Italian provisions and wines. Along the way, she’s made friends, who she now knows as regulars, and she credits the loyalty of these customers for keeping her in Easton even after all these years.

“I sincerely believe that food can create and sustain a community,” she says. “I think it’s the people that live here, who make this such an incredible place. We live in a community of food lovers and well-traveled people— people who support small businesses consistently.”

Chandler appreciates the wide range of restaurants and flavors in Easton, and recognizes it as a top eating destination in the Mid-Atlantic, not just for visitors but also for locals. She herself is a regular at both Out of the Fire and

Tiger Lily double bacon cheeseburger

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Emily Chandler OWNER PIAZZA ITALIAN MARKET

CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS

“We live in a community of food lovers and well-traveled people— people who support small businesses consistently.”

Pasta Boscaiola at Piazza Italian Market

Scossa, two top-rated, locally owned restaurants. “I think the more food destinations we have, the more people are finding their way to Easton,” she says. “If you love to travel, and you love delicious food, especially Italian fare, then come visit us. Easton is definitely worth the detour.”

CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS

A NEWCOMER BRINGS RAVE REVIEWS

CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS

Charcuterie at Piazza Italian Market

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The Travel Issue 2022

A lot of attention has come to this historic town lately, by way of Bluepoint Hospitality. Ask anyone in the local food scene and they’ll likely say that Bluepoint’s founder Paul Prager, a multi-millionaire entrepreneur, has pushed Easton in new culinary directions in the last few years.

Harley Peet is the executive chef behind Prager's vision, and he’s gained critical acclaim for creating a number of bucket-list eating spots. “We have made great progress in a short amount of time, and it is certainly our goal to be considered a premier dining destination,” Peet says.

This restaurant and retail group has brought everything from elegant French fine dining at Bas Rouge to world-class Scotch served at The Stewart, plus hard-to-find Italian wines and authentic Roman-style pizzas served by slice at Roma Alla Pala. But if you’re looking for a full range of flavors and sips, head straight to The Wardroom. It’s an all-day cafe and market that transforms into an intimate date night option, offering Mediterranean-inspired pastas and top wines from around the world.

The menu is divided into four sections—charcuterie, salads, house-made pastas, plus desserts—and it’s a space where you’re invited to linger. You can peruse the

marketplace, which carries local provisions including cheeses, or stop by for a wine list curated by Lead Sommelier and Beverage Director Natalie Tapken, with labels hailing from the U.S., Italy, Spain, France, Austria, and Germany. You can sample a number of them via self-service Enomatic wine dispensers, which pour by the ounce or by the glass.

On the dinner menu, dishes like shrimp pantesca pays homage to the Bay; it’s topped with sun-dried tomatoes, grown locally and prepared in-house. For something simpler and extremely savory, try the cacio e pepe—a bucatini pasta dish that comes served with a four-pepper blend and a heaping mound of fresh Pecorino Romano cheese. 

CAROLINE J. PHILLIPS

Bas Rouge

NICOLE FRANZEN

Harley Peet EXECUTIVE CHEF BLUEPOINT HOSPITALITY

SCOTT SUCHMAN

Sticky toffee pudding at The Stewart

“We have made great progress in a short amount of time, and it is certainly our goal to be considered a premier dining destination.”

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MELANIE DUNEA

Fresh sandwiches at The Wardroom

Peet previously worked in St. Michaels at the Inn at Perry Cabin, but made the move to Easton in 2014. He oversees the menu at The Wardroom, as well as the tasting menu at Bluepoint’s fine-dining outpost Bas Rouge, which offers a luxurious three- or four-course dining experience, where there’s always an option to add champagne or caviar to any order. Bluepoint’s high profile has captured national press from Wine Spectator, Travel & Leisure and Vogue. This brings new visitors to town, drawn by Bluepoint’s buzz, who

then dine around and discover other flavors of the region. “[Our] vision is a large part of the growing culinary interest in Easton, in combination with other established chefs and restaurant owners in the area, as well as new additions made to the local scene,” Peet says. “Because downtown Easton is not directly on the water, this drives us to focus even more on providing the best service, highest quality ingredients, and impeccable dining experiences.”

For people who travel by way of their stomach, this inevitably means you’ll soon be making a detour off Route 50 and into the heart of Easton for a visit, where chefs prepare dishes sourced, inspired by the world, and reflective of the Chesapeake Bay region.

Tim Ebner is a food and travel writer in Washington, D.C. and writes for Eater, Edible, Washington City Paper, and Forbes Travel, among others. He’s from Maryland and has a weakness for Old Bay seasoning. Follow him on Instagram at @ebnert.

Where Chefs Go in Easton We asked Easton chefs for their recommendations on where to relax and refuel in Easton.

Here are their picks for living like a local.

TIDEWATER INN

SCOSSA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

101 E. Dover Street

8 N. Washington Street

There’s been a hotel on the site of the Tidewater Inn since 1891, and the current stately, red-brick inn has been in place since 1949, offering guests an unparalleled escape in the walkable heart of town. The Inn features 86 well-appointed guest rooms and suites, multiple ballrooms, and a tented garden, home to signature events like the annual Brew & Oyster Brawl, a sell-out party that occurs during the annual Waterfowl Arts Festival. It’s also home to Hunters’ Tavern, which numerous Easton chefs recommend for a night on the town, the popular Sunday brunch, or an intimate dinner for two.

RISE UP COFFEE 618 Dover Road

OUT OF THE FIRE 22 Goldsborough Street

For an upscale meal with down-home comforts, Out of the Fire is a top pick by Hunters’ Tavern’s Daniel Pochron. The eatery is known for wood-fired pizzas with ingredients sourced locally from the Eastern Shore. “It’s an eco-conscious, farm-to-table bistro,” Pochron says, and it’s always got a rotating menu of new options based on what’s in season.

DOC’S DOWNTOWN GRILL 14 N. Washington Street

Austin Smale finds comfort in this bar and restaurant, which serves up everything from deep-fried crab balls to rockfish tenders and shrimp and grits. You’ll find plenty of Maryland pride on the drinks menu too, whether it’s craft beers like Cambridge’s RaR Brewing, or the state’s signature cocktail, the Orange Crush.

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When Emily Chandler opened Piazza more than a decade ago, she knew there was an appetite for Italian cuisines because of Scossa, an eatery run by Chef Giancarlo Tondin. The chef, who hails from Northern Italy, started his career at iconic Harry’s Bar in Venice and spent years with the acclaimed Cipriani’s in New York before landing in Easton. His restaurant serves up classic Italian comfort foods such as eggplant parmigiana, veal Milanese, and housemade pasta made fresh daily.

The Travel Issue 2022

Coffee is essential to a chef’s life, and the chefs we spoke to swear

by Rise Up Coffee, the regional powerhouse that calls Easton home. The roasting facility, which occupies a former filling station, supplies beans to the dozen namesake cafes spread throughout Maryland. It also has an active online shop and wholesale division that distributes to local grocery chains, restaurants, and other coffee shops.

STORM & DAUGHTERS ICE CREAM 32 E. Dover Street

This is a traditional ice cream parlor with a whimsical vibe, and especially in the summer months, you can expect a line for their homemade ice creams served in waffle cones. With 48 ice cream flavors, it can be hard to pick, but our Easton chefs recommend pistachio, mint chocolate chip, and brown butter bourbon truffle, to name just a few.

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410-770-8000 | TourTalbot.org The Travel Issue 2022

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Wander west along the Potomac, where five towns

atershed Wmoments

by Marty LeGrand

T

he Chesapeake Bay’s second largest tributary begins humbly: A spring bubbles from West Virginia’s mountains near Davis. The Potomac River slowly summons strength and volume as it drains Maryland’s and Virginia’s highlands, running 400 scenic miles before reaching the Bay. Its watershed is vast (14,700 square miles), historic (home, notably, to the nation’s capital and its first president), and still remarkably wild (over 50 percent forested).

Pick any Potomac contributor—the Monocacy or Shenandoah rivers, Antietam or Catoctin creeks, or the river’s 185-mile-long sidekick, the C&O Canal towpath— and you'll find captivating nearby towns that reflect a different aspect of our regional character, history, and culture.

Antietam National Battlefield

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The Travel Issue 2022

spanning three states make great weekend escapes

Inn BoonsBoro

Boonsboro, Maryland Two things tend to lure travelers to Boonsboro: war and romance. Nestled beside South Mountain, the ridge where the Appalachian Trail traverses Maryland, Boonsboro boasts dual distinctions. Civil War buffs know it as the locale of two pivotal battles; Boonsboro is surrounded by parks commemorating local and Civil War history. Book clubbers STAY: In a dreamy room named for literary lovers (like Jane Austen’s Elizabeth and Darcy) at the Nora Roberts-run Inn BoonsBoro, a boutique B&B. The author herself often appears for book signings at her husband’s Turn the Page Bookstore across the street.

DINE: On delicious pub fare and craft beers at Dan’s Restaurant & Tap House. For fine dining, try the hilltop, history-steeped Old South Mountain Inn. FISH: For trout and bass at Greenbrier Lake. know it as the adopted home of beloved romance novelist Nora Roberts, who along with her husband owns several tourist-welcoming businesses.

Begin your visit at Washington Monument State Park and climb the nation’s first towering tribute to George Washington, built of stones by Boonsboroans in 1827.

Exhibits at the park’s visitor center summarize the Civil War’s Maryland Campaign, which began 160 years ago with the Battle of South Mountain and led to the bloody clash beside Antietam Creek. Antietam National Battlefield in nearby Sharpsburg commemorates those hallowed grounds. At Gathland State Park, another 19th century memorial, the War Correspondents Arch, honors Civil War journalists and photographers.

Cumberland's landmark Blue Bridge

Cumberland, Maryland Strategically perched at a fork in the North Branch of the Potomac, Cumberland has been a military outpost, frontier town, and industrial/transportation hub—a past that is gone but not forgotten. The city’s history and its recent notoriety among outdoors enthusiasts merge at Canal Place, a pedestrian mall and visitors site that welcomes passing hikers, cyclists, and road-trippers.

Two long-distance cycling routes—the C&O Canal Towpath and the Great Allegheny Passage—meet here midway between Washington, D.C., and Pittsburgh. But those aren’t Cumberland’s only trailheads. Treat your tastebuds to tours of local coffee and donuts, ice cream, and wine/beer/ spirits trails. Explore Cumberland’s ties to the canal, railroads, the National Road (Route 40), and to George Washington at the Visitor Center and the Allegany Museum, which occupy downtown landmarks. (Geek alert: Don’t miss the museum’s pioneering use of artificial intelligence; age-regression technology has rendered Washington as a teenager.)  STAY: In a mountain-view room at Rocky Gap Casino Resort, an acclaimed lakeside resort 10 minutes from the city. The resort offers dining, golf, a spa, casino, and comedy club in a state park setting.

DINE: On authentic wood-fired pizza at Puccini Restaurant, where Italian home cooking meets history. The handsomely restored building once served as a Civil War hospital. For yummy frozen custard and tasty lunches, stop by local favorite Queen City Creamery.

KAYAK: The deep blue water of Rocky Gap’s Lake Habeeb.

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Cunningham Falls State Park

Harpers Ferry

Harpers Ferry, West Virginia Topography and history define Harpers Ferry. Three states, two rivers, and a singular moment in national consciousness converge in this ruggedly beautiful, carefully preserved town. When abolitionist John Brown launched his failed 1859 raid on the arsenal here, it so inflamed proand anti-slavery tensions that civil war soon followed. This hillside outpost where the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers meet looks much as it did then, held in stasis as a national park and historic district.

All park but no parking, Harpers Ferry National Historic Park in lower town is best accessed by shuttle bus or downhill stroll. Don’t miss John Brown’s Fort, where Brown and followers barricaded themselves; the Storer College/ Niagara Movement exhibit exploring the town’s historically black college and famous civil rights gathering; and the park association bookshop, for a well-curated collection of books for all ages. Hike up Jefferson Rock, Maryland Heights, or Bolivar Heights for mesmerizing vistas and a possible glimpse of cliff-nesting peregrine falcons. At night, take a spine-tingling ghost tour of historic sites.

STAY: In a deluxe suite at the restored 18th-century Light Horse Inn in neighboring Bolivar. Within walking distance of the national park, the inn offers free breakfasts and a bar/live music venue.

DINE: On Kelley Farm Kitchen’s palate-pleasing, plantbased breakfasts, burgers, bratwursts, and crabcakes. Or sample neighboring Loudon County, Virginia’s vineyards.

In summer, Maggie Malick Wine Caves of Purcellville hosts dockdog competitions and a fundraiser that benefits rescued Labrador retrievers.

FLOAT: On mellow flat water on the Shenandoah or whitewater rapids on the Potomac.

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Thurmont, Maryland A small town with a large profile, Thurmont boasts a historic presidential sanctuary; Maryland’s largest cascading waterfall and premier brook trout streams; a rich legacy of whiskey making; stunning fall foliage; and an unusual number of alligators, cockatoos, pythons, and zebras. The critters live in a zoo. The other attractions reside in or around town, and in two mountain parks.

STAY: At the ultra-romantic Inn at Springfield Manor, a 1700s fieldstone house where Edgar Allan Poe reportedly spent his honeymoon; you can book the very third-floor room in which the Poes stayed. Imbibe at the onsite winery-distillery-brewery, offering house rye and corn whiskeys and award-winning gin made from estate-grown lavender.

DINE: On rib-sticking country cooking (pot pie, specialty fried chicken) at Thurmont Kountry Kitchen, leaving room for house-made pies and colossal cupcakes. Buy local produce, jams and butters, and baked goods at Catoctin Mountain Orchard.

FLY FISH: For catch-and-release trout at Big Hunting Creek.

At Catoctin Mountain Park, you can’t visit Camp David, the 84-year-old rustic retreat reserved for presidents, but you can hike, fish, and see relics of yore, including a moonshiners’ still. At Cunningham Falls State Park, chill beside the falls, which tumble 78 rocky feet; swim at the lake; and see rehabilitating raptors at the park aviary. Bike or hike the Trolley Trail, which follows a rail line that carried summer tourists a century ago. Take a safari ride at Catoctin Wildlife Preserve, home to hundreds of exotic animals. 

1000 Rowland Dr, Port Deposit, MD 21904 (410) 378-3343 www.tomeslandingmarina.com

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in the Civil War, and the Patsy Cline Historic House preserves the country music legend’s childhood home. Late April’s Shenandoah Apple Blossom Festival highlights Winchester’s social calendar, while other festivals seasonally celebrate the apple and peach harvests and local wines and beers. Admire the starry heavens at Sky Meadows State Park, an international dark sky park offering astronomy programs.

Apple Blossom Festival

Winchester, Virginia Located north of where the Shenandoah River’s two forks merge to form the main river, Winchester makes the perfect spot from which to explore the pastoral Shenandoah Valley’s twin mountain ranges, famous orchards, and scenic roadways, including Skyline Drive.

Begin in the city, whose charming centerpiece is a two-block pedestrian mall. Don’t miss the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley, a complex that includes Glen Burnie, an 18th-century home noted for its fabulous decorative arts collection and intimate formal gardens. Museums, battlefields, and annual re-enactments honor Winchester’s strategic role

Maryland native and award-winning contributor Marty LeGrand writes about nature, the environment, and Chesapeake history.

STAY: In a private cottage or the 1785 manor house at the Inn at Vaucluse Spring in Stephens City. This off-thebeaten-path B&B specializes in wellness retreats and Blue Ridge Mountain scenery.

DINE: Where locals go for special occasions, Village Square Restaurant, serving contemporary American fare in historic Old Town. For finger-licking barbecue, try pit-cooked pork, brisket, and ribs at Shaffer’s BBQ & Market, housed in a renovated gas station in Middletown.

CANOE: On the South Fork Shenandoah from Front Royal.

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The Travel Issue 2022

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the Bay lies a marshy archi s t e e m pelag y k s o the e r e Wh

The

Serenity of Smith Island

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who se u nders tated b

d eauty is best explore

dle d a by p

BY CAROLINE FOSTER

L

ooking for a peaceful escape where you can unplug and disconnect from the world? Smith Island is calling. Most people visit for a day, but overnighting is even sweeter. Plan ahead by booking a room at an inn or Airbnb that comes with kayaks or canoes. Then download the map of Smith Island kayak routes, and pack your favorite food and beverages. (You can find crab cakes and Smith Island cake on island, but grocery shopping is limited and alcohol is strictly BYO.) Jump on a (prebooked) ferry ride from Crisfield, Md., and 45 minutes later you’ll be transported—along with dozens of visitors, locals, and Amazon packages—

to the docks of Ewell. Golf carts are available to take you and your gear down the winding gravel roads to your weekend retreat. Then grab the kayaks and go!

First stop from Ewell: Goat Island and beautiful beaches. Later, find your way down to Tylerton and paddle around to Rhodes Point. Don’t be surprised that the meandering creeks (known as “guts”) can be deceivingly shallow, even for kayaks. But follow the map’s dotted routes and you will stay afloat, surrounded by swaying marsh grasses, graceful waterfowl, and that rare and breathaking silence that exists in so few places these days.

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Learn boating From the masters of their trades Currently Offered

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Story LIVING THE

An innovative new program gets personal to showcase Bay heritage By Barbara Noe Kennedy

C

“

arol Dunahoo grew up on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, but her family wasn’t from there. She didn’t really get to know her childhood home intimately until she returned a few years ago, after moving away at the age of 18. And only then, after stumbling upon Matchcoat Sojourner in 2018 and joining their “Smith Island Crab to Cake Heritage Tasting Adventure,” did she begin to gain an insider understanding.

“It’s because of the storytelling,” she says. “I can go to Smith Island by myself and rent a room in an Airbnb, but I would never have the opportunity to sit down with a woman who’s married to a waterman, who works six jobs, who shows us how to pick crabs but also tell us what it’s like to live there in a very personal way. It

“We revisit our shared heritage through taste, on land and water.”

– Jennifer Trice Matchcoat Sojourner

Jennifer Trice (right) with Matchcoat Sojourner participants

provides an understanding in more personal terms what the tension feels like preserving all of your traditions and making your way in the modern world.”

Matchcoat Sojourner, which offers heritage foodway tours with local people in the Chesapeake Bay region, is the creation of Jennifer Trice and her partner (and best friend) Patty Lake, both from old Dorchester families. “It’s a highly personalized, small-batch, heritage foodway tour business,” Trice says.

“We revisit our shared heritage through taste, on land and water.”

Getting local people to open up and share with outsiders and guests on this level requires a lot of trust, which is one of Matchcoat Sojourner’s strengths. Trice and Lake walk the walk: Lake is an award-winning oyster shucker

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and muskrat skinner, and Trice takes visitors fishing where her greatgrandfather was born in the 1860s.

But here’s the big news: Matchcoat Sojourner is part of a new, inspiring program spearheaded jointly by the Maryland Department of Tourism and the National Park Service, called Chesapeake Bay Storytellers. To date, the initiative has trained 40 different Storytellers (including Trice and Lake), representing 30 different local businesses, including educators, museum directors, captains, chefs, watermen, and more.

The stars aligned to create this unique program. “When we kept hearing from our watermen and -women, charter boat captains, fishermen, and oystermen that their livelihoods were threatened, we wanted to provide a solution to help them diversify their economies and help sustain them when times were lean,” says Marci Ross, Senior Assistant Director for Tourism Development, Maryland Department of Commerce Office of

“

“When we kept hearing from our watermen and -women, charter boat captains, fishermen, and oystermen that their livelihoods were threatened, we wanted to provide a solution to help them diversify their economies and help sustain them when times were lean.”

– MARCI ROSS Senior Assistant Director for Tourism Development, Maryland Department of Commerce Office of Tourism

Matchcoat Sojourner owners Jennifer Trice (left) and Patty Lake (right) enjoy a wine tasting with guest Lori Wyatt.

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Tourism. “We heard it enough that we knew we needed to do something.” But they weren’t sure what.

Around 2018, the National Park Service’s Chesapeake Bay office brought on new leadership that was interested in knowing what was going on around the Bay, and they started talking. “We asked, ‘Could we partner’?” Ross says. Yes, they could. And thus, the Chesapeake Bay Storytellers program was born.

The Storytellers’ intense training program delves into the history, culture, and ecology of the Chesapeake, which they can use to augment their own unique position in and their own storytelling about the Bay region. Visitors benefit from local knowledge, with a broader understanding of the Bay in general.

“This program can’t be found anywhere else in the world,” Ross says.

“It’s a match made in heaven.”

Capt. Phil Langley from Fish the Bay Charters is another Storyteller. A lifelong resident of southern Maryland, whose family has been here for generations, he’s had his captain’s license for 38 years. He takes people on fishing charters, sunset cruises, and watermen tours.

“On the heritage tour, we start the trip with a brief synopsis of my

“

“After discussing the oysters, we go back and enjoy some of the crabs that have been steaming, served with vinegar, Old Bay, salt, and pepper.”

– CAPT. PHIL LANGLEY Fish the Bay Charters

Above, Capt. Phil Langley of Fish the Bay Charters tells guests about blue crabs before eating them (below) with the day’s participants.

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Proud To Be Back On The Bay

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Schedule your appointment to see her today at our Annapolis office.

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“

“It gives you an idea of what it was like historically, when all boats were sailboats … the realization of what it meant to deliver goods and services—and people—up and down the Bay at a slower rate than what we do now.”

– CAPT. DAVIS JONES Shardana Sailing Charters

background in the area,” he says. “We load them on my 48-foot traditional vintage Chesapeake Bay-style boat. We put crab pots in the Bay, we talk about the life cycle of crabs, the importance of crabs in the ecosystem, how crabs grow, reproduce, spawn.”

They then discuss the history and importance of lighthouses on Chesapeake Bay at Point No Point Lighthouse (his mother’s side were lighthouse keepers for generations), and check out his oyster

lease on St. Jerome Creek. “After discussing the oysters, we go back and enjoy some of the crabs that have been steaming, served with vinegar, Old Bay, salt, and pepper.”

Davis Jones, with Shardana Sailing Charters, is a captain on a 42-foot Catalina out of Rock Hall, and takes visitors on half-day to five-day sails around the Bay. “We get people who have never been on a sailboat to very experienced sailors who don’t have their

Relax & Enjoy

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own boat,” he says. “I personally get a lot of interest in introducing the sport to people.”

Sailing is also a way to slow down. “It gives you an idea of what it was like historically, when all boats were sailboats,” Davis says. “The realization of what it meant to deliver goods and services—and people—up and down the Bay at a slower rate than what we do now.”

Other Storyteller adventures include kayaking Mallows Bay, around one of North America’s largest fleet of shipwrecks; cruising aboard a reproduction of an early 19th-century Baltimore clipper; delving into local history along the Harriet Tubman Trail (she was born near Cambridge); even hunting for giant fossilized shark teeth with Megalodon Adventures charters in Calvert County. And the list goes on.

But there’s more at play here. The hope of the Storyteller program—and of each Storyteller—is that visitors will come away with a better understanding of the

Captain Davis Jones of Shardana Sailing Charters

importance of the Bay and its ecology.

“I love to see people’s eyes open up,” Davis says. “Even just explaining where crabs come from, how that works.

It’s been very rewarding.”

“I hope everyone who goes out with

me learns a bit about the Bay and the ecosystem,” says Capt. Phil. “I hope people will take away the fact that when they build a house or landscape their yard or plant a tree, there are consequences affecting the Bay.” Maryland Tourism’s Marci Ross became a grandmother during Covid.

“His parents live on a tributary of the Bay,” she says of her grandson, “and I think about what he will find and what his kids will find. Part of our goal is that these Storytellers increase interest in the bay through the stories that they tell.” “[The tours] are terrifically important,” says Dunahoo, “to understand the culture, history, landscape, and way of life, and what we stand to lose if we don’t appreciate it.

Barbara Noe Kennedy is a freelance writer and editor based in Arlington, Va., with a penchant for kayaking, sunsets over the Bay, and Chesapeake crabcakes.

Her website is barbaranoekennedy.com.

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WORK

SHOP WEEK

ENDS

by Susan Moynihan

Get a return on your travel investment with these hands-on workshops. It’s like summer camp for adults.

We know—weekends are for boating. That’s why we live by the Bay! But sometimes you want to mix things up, try something different, maybe even learn something new. Here are some great options for weekend (or longer) getaways that indulge your other hobbies.

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Build a Wooden Boat in Annapolis

B

uilding your own boat is easier than you think, says John Staub, CEO of Chesapeake Light Craft. The Annapolisbased company has been creating innovative DIY wooden boat kits for more than 30 years—everything from kayaks and canoes to dorys and wherrys, even teardrop campers, their best seller of late. Each kit is designed so it can be assembled at home, but their hands-on workshops have also been a part of the process from early on. “There are a certain number of people that just enjoy building boats, but there are also a huge number of people that love boats and always wanted to do something like that,” Staub says. “We provide that opportunity for them.”

CLC often works in conjunction with WoodenBoat School, based in Brooklin, Maine. “We send folks up to WoodenBoat School to teach wooden stitch-and-glue boat building, and they

Clockwise from far left: Assembling a Petrel Play kayak; a teardrop camper class is ready to roll; workers join forces on a CLC prototype; epoxy holds it all together.

send folks down here to teach,” explains Staub. While they offer classes around the country, including at WBS and at the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, Wash., the majority of CLC classes take place in a workshop connected to their showroom in the Annapolis Design District.

The five- to six-day small-group workshops include the kit itself, with all of the materials, and the chance to work under guidance of instructors in their workshop, alongside other participants who are making their own boats.

Classroom days run from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. or longer; most projects take 40–50 hours per week, Staub says. But it’s not as complicated as it sounds. “You’d be surprised how little equipment is needed,” he adds. “We design it, put in into 3D models, put it into 2D, and then we cut the parts out, so when they go together they look like they’re supposed to.” For equipment, “you just need the need the basics: a hand saw, a sander, a mixing cup, and some brushes.”

At the end of the workshop, you leave with your finished craft, and instructions on what to do at home if it needs any finishing. As for getting it home, the boats are light enough to trailer home, or even forego the trailer entirely. “Most of our boats will fit right on top of the car.”

For more info visit clcboats.com/ boatbuilding_classes. 

OTHER OPPORTUNITIES The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s Apprentice for a Day program takes you into their St. Michaels, Md. shipyard where you’ll work alongside the museum’s staff shipwrights, learning the fundamentals of boatbuilding as you help them construct a 40-foot buyboat. Cbmm.org/learn/adult-programs In Virginia, the Deltaville Maritime Museum offers a Family Boatbuilding Week every summer, where you build your own John Wright skiff. The program is extremely popular and is already sold out for 2022. Deltavillemuseum.com/family-boat-building-week

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Create an Heirloom Table in Chestertown

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ave you ever dreamed of making a piece of heirloom-quality furniture, the kind you can pass down for generations? If so, you’re not alone. Enter Robert Ortiz, who has been crafting striking contemporary tables, dressers, and sideboards inspired by Shaker and Japanese traditions for 35 years. He shares his skills and equipment in hands-on 3- or 5-day workshops that take place in his woodworking studio in Chestertown, Md.’s arts district.

Ortiz got into workshops in 2014, almost by accident, when his dentist offered to barter services for instruction on how to make a table like the ones Ortiz displays and sells in his showroom.

“He said, I would be willing to charge you less if you would guide me though making this.” Over nine weeks of half-day sessions they finished a table. “I thought, Well gee, maybe this actually is a viable way of doing it.”

Clockwise from top left: A student uses a bandsaw to cut a slab of cedar; a finished side table; Robert Ortiz (left) with another happy student; and a student cuts a joint on the table saw.

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The Travel Issue 2022

That initial experiment has turned into the Chestertown Vacation Workshop, a hands-on master class with Ortiz. The five-day workshops run from Thursday through Monday. You’ll work one-on-one with Robert as he guides you through process of building a piece— either a coffee or end table with a glass or wood top, using the same designs and equipment he uses for the furniture in his showroom. (Ortiz also recently introduced three-day worksop, where students complete a cherry-wood table.)

Each class comes with a syllabus that students can peruse beforehand to prepare, along with a copy of his book, Creating a Fine Art Entry Table. When onsite, you’ll follow his schedule, starting at 8 or 9 a.m. and working through until 4 p.m., with a break for lunch. In the evenings, explore Chestertown on your own, and get a sense of why this historic waterfront town has been charming visitors since the 1600s.

The workshops draw from all over the country; he has local students, but he’s also had people come in from New York, Vermont, and California, checking in to a local inn or Airbnb for the duration.

He paused the workshops for a year during the pandemic but restarted them in May 2021. “Much to my surprise,” he says, “people seem even more interested in them now than before COVID.” Ortiz puts his own work aside to attend to his students. “When they’re here… I don’t answer the phone, I’m with them every step of the way. That’s why to a certain extent what I offer is really unique.” And if you don’t know a table saw from a drill press? No worries. “About a third of them have never done anything in wood,” he says. “My goal is to have an experience, to learn to make something that I would put in my showroom” And if you slip up? “There’s not one mistake you could possibly make that I haven’t made 20 times. I’m here to help you avoid that.”

For details, visit Ortizstudios.com/ one-one-furniture-making-workshops/. 

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Craft Your Own Whiskey in Frederick

C

ocktail classes are fantastic. But if you want to go deeper into the craft of distilling, either as a serious enthusiast or if you’re considering getting into commercial distilling business, head to Frederick, Md., for a day-long Distilling 101 workshop at McClintock Distillery.

The distillery has won a slew of awards, including Best Distillery in Maryland by the NY International Spirits Competition, and Best Craft Vodka Distillery and Top 10 Gin Distillery in the country by USA Today. But this class is all about whiskey, taking you on to their production floor for some serious education.

Unlike home brewing, distilling requires specialized equipment, so most serious instruction (such as the six-day Distiller Course at Kentucky’s Moonshine University) are aimed at professionals.

That was the impetus behind this class, says McClintock’s cofounder and head distiller Braeden Bumpers. “Oftentimes these classes are only aimed at commercial distillers. We wanted to make something that’s more

ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com 66

Left: Two of McClintock’s award-winning whiskeys; flight tasting is a workshop highlight.

approachable and a good entryway to learn about distilling.“ The goal of the daylong workshops, which are offered five or six times per year, is to “understand distilling from start to finish—from a biochemical, theoretic perspective but also hands-on practical as well,” says Bumpers. “Some of the people are coming in to see how feasible it would be to start a commercial craft distillery; some of the people just want to know more, both on fundamentals and tasting.

Understanding how [whiskey is] made will help make better decisions when at the liquor store next time.”

The Travel Issue 2022

The class starts with breakfast of coffee and donuts, and gets into fundamentals and basic biochemistry in the tasting classroom. After lunch, you go into the production area for hands-on interaction in the whiskey-making process. At the end of the day, you go home with a two-liter cask of whiskey to be aged at home.

“For the theoretic stuff, you can read books,” says Bumpers. “But nothing compares to tasting from the still— determining how to identify impurities and compounds, a lot of sensory stuff that you don’t get a chance to learn on your own. The value of tasting cut points, you can’t beat that.”

Braeden’s favorite part comes at the end. “Tasting is how we do all of the final decisions in blends. At the end we

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talk about barrel aging, and how it changes the whiskey. We do a vertical flight of 3 months, 6 months, one year, 3 years, so you can really taste the process. Everything we try to do for the class is something you wouldn’t get to do any other way.”

The class draws people from the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast, and they’ve had international students from as far as South Africa and the Philippines. Make a weekend of it by staying at 10 Clarke, a historic inn within easy walking distance of the distillery.

Left: Whiskey ages in barrels made of charred white American oak.

Below: McClintock’s tasting room.

Learn more at mcclintockdistilling.com/ classes.

Susan Moynihan writes about travel and food, and is the author of 100 Things to Do in Annapolis and the Eastern Shore Before You Die. You can find her on Instagram at @susanmoynihan.

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44’ 2014 1993 Jeanneau Pacific Seacraft 44 ............................. $390,000 $199,000 50’ - Fantail 50 .................... $240,000 44’ 1988 1982 Transworld Gulfstar 44 CC .........................................$95,000 49’ 2021 Jeanneau SO 490-147 In Stock ............. CALL 44’ 2023 Jeanneau SO 440 - August 2022 ........... CALL 49’ 2020 Jeanneau SO 490 - HAYETTE .......... $525,000 43’2022 2015 Tartan Tartan 455 4300- New ........................................... $490,000 45 Model ..........................

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48’ Sea Ray 2002 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

45’ Sabre 2023 - Call Today: 877.269.3021

45’ Sea Ray 2003 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

45’ Cabo 2006 - Call Daryl: 252.259.0235

42’ Viking 2014 - Call Harvey: 757.636.6810

40’ Reliant 2016 - Call Peter: 910.262.3218

40’ Formula 2008 - Call Roger: 410.456.3659

38’ Jarrett Bay 2001 - Call Daryl: 252.259.0235

38’ Jupiter 2019 - Call Jud: 757.846.7909

38’ Sabre 2015 - Call Chuck: 703.999.7696

36’ Contender 2005 - Call Roger: 410.456.3659

34’ Boston Whaler 2014 - Call Mark: 757.406.1673

34’ Boston Whaler 2021 - Call Mark: 757.406.1673

33’ Grady-White 2007 - Call Hank: 804.337.1945

25’ Regulator 2020 - Call Jud: 757.846.7909

BOATING’S BEST BRANDS (New model representation varies by territory)

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ChesapeakeBayMagazine.com BLUEWATER HAS

The Travel Issue 2022 REGULATOR, SABRE & BACK COVE MODEL IN STOCK OR ON ORDER! EVERY VALHALLA,

The World Awaits As we turn the calendar to a new year, we look forward to new opportunities and a renewed optimism for the future.

Now is the time to break free, set sail, and enjoy the world in all her splendor once again.

Your next yacht charter escape awaits.

MOORINGS.COM | 800 669 6529

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