Nurseries A new book traces the

Above The greenhouses at Petersham are filled with conservatory plants, garden tools and stylish accessories. Right Chef Skye Gyngell was asked to create ‘more than a tearoom’ and so the Petersham Nurseries Café, with its emphasis on seasonal food, was born. I t may not be a formal garden to visit, but Petersham Nurseries in Richmond is undoubtedly a horticultural highlight for anyone visiting London. Edged by water meadows and with the Thames flowing idly by, Petersham nestles in a valley so beautiful it was painted by William Turner and is now part of the historic, protected view from the top of Richmond Hill looking west towards Hampton Court.

In 1996, Gael and Francesco Boglione, seeking a quieter life and more space, moved with their children from Kensington to Petersham House, an elegant Queen Anne property that had come up for sale. Abutting the garden was a nursery owned by Bob and Annette Collett. Fearing developers, the Bogliones bought the nursery when it came

A relaxed, IndoEuropean mood extends to the cafe where classic, rustic furniture combines with luxuriant plants such as the rambling Rosa multiflora ‘Grevillei’.

up for sale in 2000, although with little gardening knowledge they had no idea what they would do with it. It continued to run as it was until inspiration struck one day while the family was travelling in India. In Chettinad they were introduced to an antiques dealer and, after a fortnight in Tamil Nadu, Francesco had a 40ft container ready to ship: it was packed with furniture, textiles and ornaments that would be housed in the re-imagined nursery.

The Bogliones sought to combine their family’s ethics, aesthetics and philosophies. The greenhouses were stripped, repainted and filled with the treasures that Francesco and, later, Gael had sourced. By 2004 they were ready to re-open and their work was well received. “We’d not even been open a month when Mary Keen phoned and said she’d like to visit,” recalls Gael.

Today the glasshouses are filled with treasures from around the world, in an unmistakable Petersham style: eclectic without being disparate. The Bogliones are still extremely involved in what is offered in the shop, choosing mainly handmade or thoughtfully produced items with as little waste

Above left From May to July, Anduze pots are crammed with fragrant sweetpeas, including varieties ‘Matucana’ and ‘Painted Lady’. They’re fed once a week with a seaweed fertiliser. Above right Climbing roses such as ‘Constance Spry’ combine with classic foxgloves to create a timeless mood. as possible. Under chef Skye Gyngell’s direction, the café won recognition for its deceptively simple seasonal menus and it continues to attract fans who appreciate its organic, sustainable focus.

Outside, tables groan with abundant healthy plants in fashionable shades, and displays of plants that are as beautiful as the goods within. In late spring and early summer, sweet peas in Anduze urns scramble up obelisks of hazel poles 8ft tall. They are packed in, with as many as 24 plants in each container. Varieties include incomparable ‘Matucana’ and ‘Painted Lady’, as well as ‘Flora Norton’ and ‘Mrs Collier’.

Rosa banksiae var. banksiae is one of the first roses to bloom here, and its unfurling petals mark the beginning of the rose season. What follows is a heady symphony of colour and fragrance. ‘Gertrude Jekyll’, ‘Constance Spry’, ‘Falstaff’ and ‘The McCartney Rose’ offer blush tones. ‘Lady Emma Hamilton’ beguiles with her deep scent, while the Seven Sisters’ rose (R. multiflora ‘Grevillei’), the exuberant rambler, with large clusters of flowers, is undoubtedly the most photographed rose of all.

Recipes from Petersham Nurseries

Roasted Romano Peppers with White Beans, Tomatoes and Taggiasche Olives

SERVES 6

6 medium Romano peppers 350g mixed tomatoes, halved 5 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked Heaped ½ tablespoon dried chilli flakes 50ml olive oil plus extra for the beans A handful of fresh oregano leaves A handful of edible flowers such as borage FOR THE BEANS 60g fresh cannellini beans or other white beans, podded 100g cherry tomatoes 2 cloves garlic 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of thyme 30 taggiasche olives Salt and black pepper

Preheat the oven to 200C. Place the beans, tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves and thyme in a baking tray or dish and add cold water until the beans are just covered, along with a splash of olive oil. Cover with oil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the beans are tender. Once the beans are cooked, season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, place the whole peppers, halved tomatoes, thyme, chilli flakes and olive oil in a tray, add a pinch of salt and place under a hot grill for 10-15 minutes, turning once, and then rest for a further 10 minutes. Add the olives to the beans. Spoon into a dish and lay the peppers and tomatoes on top, finishing with a sprinkle of oregano and edible flowers.

Beef Carpaccio with Heritage Beetroots, Horseradish and Crème Fraîche

SERVES 4

4 baby golden beetroots 4 baby red beetroots 4 baby Chioggia beetroots 360-480g beef fillet ½ lemon 50ml crème fraîche 1 thumb-sized piece of fresh horseradish Olive oil Salt and black pepper Wash and scrub the beetroot, then boil each variety in separate pans of salted water for around 15 minutes, or until tender. Cooking each variety separately means they will hold their colour. Once cooked, peel and halve or quarter (depending on their size) and set aside.

Season the fillet of beef with salt and pepper and rub with olive oil. In a heavy based, very hot pan, sear quickly on each side and put to one side.

To assemble the dish, slice the beef very finely, then season with olive oil and lemon juice.

Scatter the beetroot over the top and season. Top with little dollops of crème fraîche and then, using a microplane or fine grater, grate on as much or as little of the horseradish as you like. n Adapted from Petersham Nurseries by the Boglione Family, photography by Andrew Montgomery, £65, Petersham Nurseries.

A precise and geometric arrangement of box and lavender in the parterre at Ham House, Richmond upon Thames.

Capital Gains

If you want to visit gorgeous gardens this summer, the countryside isn’t your only option. Tallulah Rushaya rounds up some of London’s lesser-known gardens of outstanding botanical beauty for a city escape with a difference