Ionian wine tour

Unmythable wine tours

The Ionian isn't just about the azure water and beautiful scenery: Tom Fletcher’s vineyard route provides an alternative slant to the popular sailing area

Greek wine is terribly misunderstood. Both by sailors and restauranteurs. For many years, every taverna owner would only serve cheap local village wine in jugs and any tourist would, knowing the price of a jug, cheerfully hold their nose and postulate “It’ll taste better after the first glass”! That wine would come in at least two, and sometimes three, varieties.

Red, white and pink. And, if you were really unlucky, the ‘pink’ was actually just a mix of red and white.

The hangovers in those days were legendary. Many a charterer would cut short the next day’s sailing.

At least, I think this was just a misunderstanding. The taverna owner, being a local island bloke, believed that the tourist just wanted a cheap drink. Besides, the wine was made by his uncle and it was good to keep the family in business. And the tourist was never told there was a choice, so they just accepted that drinking 'vinegar' was the way of things in Greece. It was only the wise Athenians who knew the score, and sent the taverna owner running to the shop for something a civilised palette could quaff.

However, over the past decade, things have changed. The Greek wine industry, driven by a few venerable old vineyards and a surge of young, keen, innovative winemakers, has remembered its heritage and become rather good. It hasn’t quite filtered all the way down to the small village tavernas yet though, so you’ll still have to hold your nose there. But step through the doors of any of a dozen decent restaurants in Nydri alone and, while you might have to ask for it, a wine list will be provided for your perusal.

So, brave sailor, your first Herculean task of finding a wine list is achieved. Your next challenge is to choose a bottle. Hopefully, the list has been translated into English. If not, you will just have to ask the poor waiter to choose for you, or resort to drinking the salad dressing. But even in English, you will be reading through a lot of names you’re not familiar with.

That is because Greek wines are typically made from native grape varieties which are not grown elsewhere. So, in addition to many bottle labels being in Greek, the wine tourist also has to contend with unknown varieties too. This combination of confusing factors is like a double-tap to the head for Greek wine. But, dear oenophile, do not let

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Vineyards abound in the Ionian and - contrary to myth - can produce excellent wines

this daunt you. Instead, rejoice. For you have just discovered an entire country full of new flavours to explore while you sail around the islands. Or, just be brave and point at something in the middle of the list.

In order to give yourself at least half a chance of picking something you may like, try to remember the four most popular Greek varieties. Very roughly, these are the local equivalent of Cab Sav, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, in that order: Xinomavro: which produces dry, tannic reds and is grown mainly in Northern Greece. Agiorgitiko: which produces softer, merlot-like reds and is grown mainly in Nemea, the Peloponnese. Assyrtico: a white-wine grape native to Santorini and grown in several places around Greece. As a general rule, it produces minerally, dry wines.

Moschofilero: an aromatic white wine grape, is also grown mainly in the Peloponnese.

Unfortunately, it’s not as simple as that though. Many of the islands in Greece have their own native varieties which aren’t grown anywhere else. So, when you look for quality local wines, in Lefkada for example, you will find mainly Vardea (white) and Vertzami (red). Some of these varieties are of such high quality they have become available all over Greece. Assyrtico, from Santorini, being the perfect example. To a lesser extent though, the Robola grape from Kefalonia and Corfu has also made it to the big time, so watch out for that one when cruising in the Ionian.

If you’re looking at trying some fine wines in Greece then it also pays to know about OPAP – Appellation of Origin Wines. This is the equivalent of what the French call AOP, Protected Appellation of Origin. There are eight such areas in Greece, but the ones you’ll come across most often are:

l Naoussa (for Xinomavro) in Macedonia. l Nemea (for Agiorgitiko wines) in the Peloponnese. l Santorini (for Assyrtico). l Mandineia (for wines from the Moschofilero grape), in the Peloponnese.

All this epicurean delight is, of course, best appreciated from the deck of a gorgeous charter yacht. So where can the Ionian sailor enjoy all the rich soils of the area have to offer? The following five vineyards are broken down by island, with recommended mooring locations. Most of the island vineyards are small, and family run, so don’t expect a long tour. However, they are all situated in beautiful locations, with views to die for, and allow a glimpse into Greek island life that most sailors never see. Most vineyards will offer a short lecture, a tour and then a tasting with some mezze. Just make sure you moor up securely, as moving a yacht after an afternoon tasting in the sun is not something we recommend at Sail Ionian!

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Wine barrels at Theotoky Wine Estate, Corfu

BELOW

Sail Ionian yachts moored off a taverna in Sivota, Lefkas. This is the classic setting to be served a bottle of cheap, vinegary wine - unless you are in the know!

Le ada:

Le as Earth Winery (le aditikigi.gr):

Located in the hills above Sivota, just a few kilometres from Sail Ionian’s base, on the south coast of Le ada. is charming, young vineyard is one of the largest on Le ada. Moor in Sivota, which has excellent facilities for yachts with several pontoons with lazy lines. Exclusively grown on Le ada, the grape varieties of Vardea (white) and Vertzami (red) make a selection of seven di erent wines to try. e ‘Skin Contact’ dry white is the star of the show, on a hot summer a ernoon.

Si ogo Winery (si ogole ada.gr – tours by phone appointment only):

One for the grassroots fanatics, this is a tiny vineyard is in the village of Platistoma, perched in the hills 500m above Nydri. Stunning views out over Skorpios, Meganisi and the other Princes Islands reward your e ort. Si ogo is one family’s passion, they cultivate Vartzami, Vardea and Chlori grapes, as well as some almost forgotten ancient varieties (Mavropatrino, iako, white Vartzamo, Kokkinostafylo & Le as Muscat). Moor in Nydri for the night, and on your return pop into De Blancks wine shop, run by a very knowledgeable Danish couple (www.deblanckgreekwines.com).

Corfu:

eotoky Estate (theotoky.com):

One of the oldest vineyards in Corfu, if not the whole of Greece. eotoky Aspro (white in Greek) was famously requested by non-other than James Bond in 1981’s 'For Your Eyes Only'. e estate is located in the Ropa Valley around 17km from Corfu Town, which is probably the best place to moor for this visit. Pre-book a spot in the small, but beautiful, Mandraki Marina beneath the citadel’s massive old walls. eotoky produces whites from the Robola variety, reds from Cabernet Sauvignon, and a rose from Syrah. e Estate is a beautiful, old, peaceful place to visit, and has a restaurant and accommodation on site.

Zakynthos:

Ktima Grampsas (ktimagrampsa.gr):

Established in 2011 by two brothers keen to breathe life back into Zakynthian wine making, Grampsas is in the hills above Laganas. Zante Town is the easiest place to moor though. e vineyard is run to a very high standard, the tour is the best of all the vineyards here, and the on-site restaurant is wonderful. Producing 11 wines from local varieties such as Goustolidi and Avgoustiatis, this vineyard is a classy example of modern Greek wine making.

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Grampsas Winery on Zakynthos

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eotoky Estate, Corfu

BELOW LEFT

Si ogo Winery cellar on the island of Le as

BELOW RIGHT

e vineyard at Petrakopoulos on the island of Kefalonia

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Tom Fletcher has worked for Sail Ionian for the past 11 years. He has sailed extensively in the area, skippering adventure sailing weeks circumnavigating the Peloponnese, and likes nothing more than taking a yacht o the beaten track. Go to sailionian.com for full details on chartering.

Kefalonia:

Petrakopoulos (www. petrakopouloswines.gr):

Located on the far south of Kefalonia, you could moor in either Argostoli, Poros or possibly Sami. Petrakopoulos Wines has a very short tour, and a simple tasting area. ey are, however, an excellent producer of the classic Kefalonian Robola whites, which are the reason you’re here. Reds come from the local Mavrodaphne variety, and are also worth sampling.

I nd it very refreshing to set o on a yacht charter with a purposeful plan for a di erent week’s activities. Exploring the vineyards also takes you up into the hills and mountains of the Ionian islands. e views are spectacular and it’s interesting to see mountain ways of life continue much as they have here for centuries.

So, nally, while everyone knows “yia mas” (cheers), maybe you could be a bit more adventurous and toast a cheeky “aspro pato”. Literally ‘white bottom’ or “bottoms up”!