CRYSTAL CLEAR The jewellery

from The London Magazine September 2022

PROPERTY NEWS Zoe Dare Hall

Crystal clear TALLULAH RUSHAYA EXPLORES HOW THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY IS GOING GREEN

MULTIFACETED Clockwise from main image: Ruth Tomlinson's low-impact process incorporates recycled gold; Pamela shell 18kt yellow-gold and synthetic emerald necklace, £69, V by Laura Vann; 18kt gold hoops set with diamonds, £765, Vashi; the iconic Baby Bee necklace is one of nature-inspired jeweller Alex Monroe's bestselling designs; tiger's eye crystal hoops, £35, Ginga Privé; Monica Vinader prioritises conscious sourcing; The Nile 18kt yellow-gold and pavé diamond bangle, £13,200, Vanleles Diamonds

For centuries, jewellery has held sentimental value and told stories of cultures and beauty. Yet increasingly, we are delving beyond appearances with a piqued interest in the industry’s ethical and sustainable manufacturing processes.

Mining materials presents ethical challenges, so the journey to making this process greener has moved to the top of the agenda. “Making mining sustainable means the exploration, design, construction, operation, and closure of mines in a manner that respects and responds to the environmental, and socio-economic needs of present generations,” explains Diana Verde Nieto, CEO and co-founder of Positive Luxury (positiveluxury.com).

A recent report from Mintel found sustainability and ethics are the top considerations for 55 per cent of UK jewellery shoppers. Between 2019 and 2020, a study from Taylor & Hart found searches for ‘ethical jewellery’ rose by 20 per cent. The urgency of sustainability is reaching both luxury and independent brands, according to Verde Nieto: “Stephen Webster, Garrard, Colbert in France, Smiling Rocks in Hong Kong and the USA, Facet in Spain, Monica Vinader and too many to mention.” She adds that, through Positive Luxury, you will be able to see which companies are making tangible actions to move the jewellery industry forward. “Stephen Webster and Garrard pioneered sustainability when the topic wasn’t even considered by boards. Monica Vinader has ensured responsible sourcing, transparency, conscious design, and packaging are integral to the brand ethos. And Smiling Rocks illustrates adaptation and innovation with the use of lab-grown diamonds.”

Alex Monroe, founder of the eponymous, Alex Monroe (alexmonroe.com) says, “Jewellery making has a notoriously complicated history when it comes to ethical practice and sustainability.” The brand has always sought inspiration from nature, using recycled metals wherever possible. “We’re committed to continually refl ecting on our practices and taking steps to do what we can to make positive change across the wider jewellery industry.”

Ethical jewellery has not always been about creating a new piece. Designer Ruth Tomlinson can alter any current piece and evolve its style. “Each jewel is handcrafted in our London atelier by our small team of skilled goldsmiths, using 100 per cent recycled gold and antique diamonds wherever we can,” explains the founder of Ruth Tomlinson (ruthtomlinson.com). “A large part of our commission-based work is resetting our customer’s unworn, sentimental jewels into our contemporary designs. As a brand that grew from a fundamental passion for the planet, using recycled gold and gemstones seems the most natural path for us to follow in our e orts to be as sustainable as we can be.”

Buying vintage is one of the most conscious ways to shop for gems, while the connection to the past with vintage pieces enables us to discover styles that characterise bygone eras. “The rise in popularity of vintage jewellery directly correlates with the growing desire of consumers to shop more sustainably. With no manufacturing process, vintage jewellery extends the life cycle of pieces dramatically,” says Susan Caplan, founder of Susan Caplan (susancaplan.co.uk). “All the pieces I source are made by extremely talented artisans, so even though they’re second-hand, they’re all in remarkable condition, as well as being stylish and full of character! Each piece tells a story, which is the antithesis to fast fashion.”

Every detail of the creative cycle, from conception of ideas to delivery and packaging is pivotal. “We consider materials, design, the product’s life cycle, the wider environment, and the people who make our jewellery,” explains Laura Vann, founder of V by Laura (vbylauravann.com). “We’re anti-trend (creating designs with longevity), never burn stock and limit seasonal sales to discourage over consumerism. We’re also approved by auditor SMETA (Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit), which conducts inspections to a rm ethical social and environmental practice,” she says. “It’s so important to have a 360-ethical outlook and approval from a globally-recognised body gives our consumers confi dence that we are practising what we preach.” L